Deleted.

I have purchased this warranty twice from OneCall..currently for my 52HM84. I had no problems getting service on my last Toshiba monitor and OneCall has been using NSI for a number of years. It is a good deal, and if the bulb is covered under it I'd go for it!!

Originally posted by kdog044
I had asked earlier if DD 5.1 was passed from an upconverting DVD player through the optical output. Someone mentioned the DD was downmixed to Dolby 2.0 but I believe it is based on the sink (target) being able to process it. I was hoping to eliminate one audio connection to the receiver. Worse case, I will be able to test it Friday after the TV is delivered. My DVD player showed up today, a day early. I ordered it from Buy.com on Thursday and it shipped on Friday. I'm happy with the delivery spped.


Sorry I did not get back to you earlier on this.
Yes.......5.1 is passed through the upconverting DVD player through the optical output, DD is not down mixed. I've watched several movies and the sound is definitely 5.1 or DTS......which ever you prefer. This is also confirmed by my Yamaha receiver.

if u r in the market for a 46hm84, check out onecall.com, they are running a great deal just for the weekend.....[ sorry if this info is not deemed fit for the forum, just thought it may help a potential buyer save some money ]

my 62HM84 has similar strange tone on some channels via cable. but another TV has no such background noise. what's wrong?

Originally posted by Mracacia
I have two other problems, there is a static noise coming from the speakers. It is low and in the background but is audible during silent times in a show. It is present from any input (used or not).
The tv guide also is not working even thou I have good reception of my local PBS channel.
I suspect that the unit may have a bad board.

Mark

pls explain step by step, can't find such SVM in Movie mode.

Originally posted by kdog044
Paul, do you know this for a fact? I know with the older CRT's that was how to disable SVM (Scan Velocity Modulation) but wasn't sure if it applied to an equivalent feature with the DLP's and if making the changes via MOVIE mode still apply.

I have a big problem seeing rainbows on my 52HM84.

Its really bad in situations where the screen is dark with just points of light, but I even see rainbows between the grey bars on the side and warm colored content in the middle.

I'm trying to find info how many segments this tv's color wheel is, and how fast it spins. Does anyone have this info?

Has anyone else seen rainbows on this DLP tv but not seen them on a different model? (perhaps a brand with segmented color wheel and a higher RPM?"

Thanks guys, and info would be great! :)

Good day to you all, I've been following these forums for quite some time and it has proven great when making big investments on TVs and such. So I would like to thank you all for your time and effort put into these threads.
Now it seems I had no choice but to ask being that so many members here are pretty knowledgeable with the HMX models. I had my set for a 2 weeks so far and was hoping not to go through any hassels given to me by Samsung which is why I went with the Toshiba, that and the picture quality. It seems I'm not so fortunate as I've come across something which looks to be geometric highlighting on certain areas of the picture while playing videogames through component or whether it's watching movies through HDMI. Now I plan on contacting Toshiba and hopefully this problem will be cleared up in no time but just to be sure has anyone here had a similar problem with the 52HMX84? Also what should I say to ensure Toshiba technicians handle the matter ASAP. Thank you all for your time and look forward to hearing from fellow members.

Originally posted by bigdaddy10
Sorry I did not get back to you earlier on this.
Yes.......5.1 is passed through the upconverting DVD player through the optical output, DD is not down mixed. I've watched several movies and the sound is definitely 5.1 or DTS......which ever you prefer. This is also confirmed by my Yamaha receiver. That's strange as I tested this out and I only get 2.0 PCM though the optical port of the Toshiba using the Sony 975 player. It passes 5.1 from the broadcast channels but not from the player.:confused:

Originally posted by LR6AGB001
It seems I'm not so fortunate as I've come across something which looks to be geometric highlighting on certain areas of the picture while playing videogames through component or whether it's watching movies through HDMI. Now I plan on contacting Toshiba and hopefully this problem will be cleared up in no time but just to be sure has anyone here had a similar problem with the 52HMX84? Also what should I say to ensure Toshiba technicians handle the matter ASAP. Thank you all for your time and look forward to hearing from fellow members.

You will have to provide more information than "geometric highlighting".
But here is a guess anyway. If you are using zoom mode 1 (to stretch
the image to fill the whole screen) then there is some geometric highlighting
happening because the sides are stretched less than the center, this is
both normal and desireable.

Originally posted by ghettoiam
I have a big problem seeing rainbows on my 52HM84.
I'm trying to find info how many segments this tv's color wheel is, and how fast it spins. Does anyone have this info?

According to Toshiba customer service, all of their DLP TV's use a 6-segment color wheel. I do not know how fast it spins, however. In rare situations (usually when my eyes are moving fast, such as when I shake my head) I have seen a smattering of the rainbow effect on my Toshiba DLP. It is not at all bothersome to me, however. Do other people who are watching your TV see the effect as you see it?

Originally posted by Victor Nowik
You will have to provide more information than "geometric highlighting".
But here is a guess anyway. If you are using zoom mode 1 (to stretch
the image to fill the whole screen) then there is some geometric highlighting
happening because the sides are stretched less than the center, this is
both normal and desireable.

Let me see if I can clarify this more, what seems to be happening is sometimes flashing outlines or stripes, and to whatever area this is happening it loses some detail of color and looks saturated in that area. I hope that helps, meanwhile I'll try and get my hands on a digital camera to take a snapshot of it in play.

Originally posted by kdog044
That's strange as I tested this out and I only get 2.0 PCM though the optical port of the Toshiba using the Sony 975 player. It passes 5.1 from the broadcast channels but not from the player.:confused:



You are correct. I musunderstood the question. I did test this theory out and you are right. The television only sends through the PCM 2.0 to the receiver.

Originally posted by ghettoiam
I have a big problem seeing rainbows on my 52HM84.

Its really bad in situations where the screen is dark with just points of light, but I even see rainbows between the grey bars on the side and warm colored content in the middle.

I'm trying to find info how many segments this tv's color wheel is, and how fast it spins. Does anyone have this info?

Has anyone else seen rainbows on this DLP tv but not seen them on a different model? (perhaps a brand with segmented color wheel and a higher RPM?"

Thanks guys, and info would be great! :)

You sound like u just recently got this TV.

Rainbows should not be visible to you after at most a month of watching.

DLP is the best technology overall out there, I am convinced. My pic cannot be better. I dont see what 1080p will ever offer to wow me.

Originally posted by bigdaddy10
You are correct. I musunderstood the question. I did test this theory out and you are right. The television only sends through the PCM 2.0 to the receiver. Thanks for the clarification. It's not a big deal as I use the digital coax from the player but I was hoping it would pass the 5.1 from the display so I could eliminate one input to the receiver and was told by Toshiba customer support that it would.

Does anyone else get a low pitch whine from their remote when you press the backlight? I plan on using my RS remote but I was wondering if my original remote is defective.

Originally posted by kdog044
Does anyone else get a low pitch whine from their remote when you press the backlight? I plan on using my RS remote but I was wondering if my original remote is defective.
I get that sound too. I had a Hitachi 50VS810 briefly before landing on the Tosh and the Hit's remote had the same sound when the backlight came on so I'm thinking it's inherent in the design of these newer remotes.

I heard the hi-pitched whining on my remote as well (52HM94). I solved it by programming everything into my HTM MX-500. What a great remote.

Has anyone ever had a solution to the image quality problems while the picture is panning? The picture I see during those times is quite bad, it appears as if the tv just can't keep up with the motion. This happens for me on every channel so it is not specific to any one feed. I had a tech out, but he didn't know what was causing the problem so he was gonna contact Toshiba.

kpepling

I have seen that same thing on my TV in some cases ...particularly while playing DVD (I suspect this is more an issue with the relatively poorly mastered ones but not sure yet - the picture pixelates while the camera pans). ..are you seeing that while playing DVD ?

I have had my TV for three weeks now so I have kept my fingers crossed.

I had the LGDVB418 connected over HDMI at 1080i ....I searched this forum and many have reported issues with Black Pixelation with that DVD player...so I thought may be that could be an issue so returned it and I am getting the Panny S97 instead and I will test this situation out

Originally posted by CosmoVI
I heard the hi-pitched whining on my remote as well (52HM94). I solved it by programming everything into my HTM MX-500. What a great remote. I called Toshiba and they are going to send me another remote. I don't plan on using the Toshiba remote as I have a Radio Shack 15-2117 but if is defective I'll see if the new one does it too.

I've had my 52HMX84 for a few days now and have been generally pleased with it. HD is very nice as expected and so is DVD playback. SD PQ was worse than the Hitachi 50VS810 I bought and returned though. I also notice the slight bowing when watching 4:3 programs (and not using expanded picture sizes) but it is not enough to bother me.

I'm going to get Comcast to come visit to make sure my cable signal strength is ok and see if they can't fix my SD PQ. If that doesn't help, I may try to get a signal amplifier.

Overall, a nice TV at a nice price point compared to its competition.

Fantosh, I see that on all inputs.

FYI -- The bulb isn't covered, but I got the warranty anyway -- it isn't a bad deal since this is relatively new technology. Normally I never get any extended warranties... but I don't think you can go wrong... especially since if you don't use it One Call will give you 50% worth of store credit. Quite nice.

Originally posted by lakiwi
I have purchased this warranty twice from OneCall..currently for my 52HM84. I had no problems getting service on my last Toshiba monitor and OneCall has been using NSI for a number of years. It is a good deal, and if the bulb is covered under it I'd go for it!!

Originally posted by kpepling
Has anyone ever had a solution to the image quality problems while the picture is panning? The picture I see during those times is quite bad, it appears as if the tv just can't keep up with the motion. This happens for me on every channel so it is not specific to any one feed. I had a tech out, but he didn't know what was causing the problem so he was gonna contact Toshiba.

I believe you're seeing 'temporal dithering'. As I understand it, this is a characteristic of DLP projection and the way it renders an image. That said, a fix from Toshiba would not be likely IMO as this appears to be a trait of DLP projection.

Re: NSI Ext Warranty from One Call
FYI -- The bulb isn't covered, but I got the warranty anyway -- it isn't a bad deal since this is relatively new technology. Normally I never get any extended warranties... but I don't think you can go wrong... especially since if you don't use it One Call will give you 50% worth of store credit. Quite nice.



quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by lakiwi
I have purchased this warranty twice from OneCall..currently for my 52HM84. I had no problems getting service on my last Toshiba monitor and OneCall has been using NSI for a number of years. It is a good deal, and if the bulb is covered under it I'd go for it!!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Sexon ...did u confirm with NSI that the bulb is not covered?

Originally posted by sexon
FYI -- The bulb isn't covered, but I got the warranty anyway -- it isn't a bad deal since this is relatively new technology. Normally I never get any extended warranties... but I don't think you can go wrong... especially since if you don't use it One Call will give you 50% worth of store credit. Quite nice.


The bulb is covered. I talked to Onecall personally about this. It's all in how you say it.
The television can not function without the "LAMP", therfore making it a vital part of the TV an covering its replacement. From what they told me, you must say "LAMP" not bulb.

Regarding my problem mentioned on the previous page, I contacted Toshiba and they simply said to unplug the set for 3 minutes and connect it again. Now I don't know if this is a common thing for the HMX84 models but so far so good, went 24 hours without a problem. I sure do hope it stays that way, by the way those with Avia & DVE what is the best recommended settings for the set in low power mode for the lamp on this set. I still have it on default and haven't really bothered because I can't seem to get either Avia or DVE around my local CC or BB. It'll be much appreciated.

I have a Moto 6412 hooked up to my 52HMX84. Very happy with HD PQ and DVD playback but SD PQ is not as good as I would like and worse than an LCD RPTV that I ended up returning for other reasons. I'm still having Comcast come to check my signal strength but to the folks who've installed a signal booster, does that mess up your HD PQ in any way? Thanks.

One more question for the HM/HMX experts here. Can you choose different aspect ratios for each input?

I want to use TheaterWide 1 for SD and Full for DVD playback. But when I choose an aspect ratio for one input, it carries over to others.

A workaround to this would be to program a macro on my universal remote so that everytime I choose one input, it selects my desired aspect ratio for that input. But I would have thought that I would be able to save aspect ratio selection for each input. Any help appreciated. Thanks.

Originally posted by jemaerca
One more question for the HM/HMX experts here. Can you choose different aspect ratios for each input? The aspect ratio settings apply across all inputs. Your macro selection sounds like the best solution for you. There are codes for each input so you don't have to program the macro to select picture size and then one to press the proper number for the input desired. I don't know how you program macros on your remote but for anyone who uses the JP1 programmable remotes the codes I have found for the aspect ratios are as follows:

Protocol: NEC1
Main Device: 64

Natural 192 (OBC), 173 (EFC) , FC (hex)
TheaterWide 1 193 (OBC), 177 (EFC) , 7C (hex)
TheaterWide 2 243 (OBC), 147 (EFC) , 30 (hex)
Full 195 (OBC), 179 (EFC) , 3C (hex)

I haven't been able to find TheaterWide 3 but since I don't use it I haven't bothered to try and figure it out. Also, if anyone needs the one for Pic Size it is 084 (OBC), 100 (EFC), and D5 (hex). I downloaded a file for the 62HMX94 at the Yahoo JP1 forum in the file section for remote codes.

Question for all my fellow home theater fans (fanatics)... I purchased a 62"
Toshiba DLP (62HMX84) before the "Big Game" on "Super Sunday"... It was a
display model and I got a "good deal" on it saving about $800. $300 was for
the GE Service Protection Plus plan for 5 years ontop of Toshiba's 1 year.
It was to cover the bulb in case it blew, just an insurance policy because
the TV was a floor model. Build date is Nov. 2004 purchase was first week of
Feb 2005. I don't think it was on that long....


Anyway, I got an all-in-one price which was the TV and the extended
warranty... Still $500 ahead of the game.


I receive my extended warranty today and read the fine print. It says under
What Is Not Covered: batteries, tapes, ribbons, BULBS, hoses, water
membranes, air filters,..., projection TV screen protectors, etc. So,
obviously bulbs is for flashlights and gadgets, etc.; it can't mean a "Lamp
Unit Replacement" for a DLP.


I call up GE and they advise me that the DLP bulb is a bulb and that it is a
consumer replacement item and it is not covered by the contract.


Now I'm a bit ticked off and call the local salesman I purchased the TV
from. He's not there but the General Manager is there. GM says that he has a
letter from the VP of GE Service Protection which indeed says that the Lamp
Unit is covered under the warranty and he is mailing me a copy.


Salesman blew smoke up my shorts at time of sale, XBOX DVD player
upconverts, warranty will cover EVERYTHING until 2011, etc.


Anyone actually know what the real deal is here? I am sure I could get
either side to agree to either way (depending on the backbone of the
individual with whom you are speaking).


Thanks!
Gary

Called GE again... Immediately received a response that the DLP Lamp Unit was not covered. I went over the details with the guy, including where I purchased the HDTV from. He then put me on hold, came back and said with that particular store there is bulb coverage.

So, according to Emp.#12345, coverage can be different for different stores but by default it is not covered. I asked for a letter or fax documenting that the lamp was covered. He said he could not do that but could note the coverage in my file (man, everyone says that...).

Anyway, supposed letter is enroute to me from the GM of the store. I feel a little better now, but something should be written in these contracts so we don't have to wonder and have the issue open to interpretation.

So there we have it for my situation... Caveat Emptor.

All,

After months of research on this board, I bought a 52HMX94 about two weeks ago from a local Home Theatre Concepts store. I had them ISF Calibrate the TV and have been very pleased with HD, PS2, and most DVD's up to this point. I've bought the Toshiba SD-V592 DVD/VHS combo player and via HDMI. One reason (of the many) that I went with DLP was because of it's ability to do excellent blacks/greys. Again, thus far, I've been very pleased with performance until last night. I put in Van Helsing and was completely displeased with the picture throughout most of this movie. When scenes were somewhat darker (most of the movie) and there were any blacks in the screen, they were showing up very awkward. Very hard to explain, but the seemed to either be pixelating or almost have a grey shadow, and not showing any detail. You couldn't see buttons on anyones clothes (that were black) and all-black scenes looked horrible.

I changed around from 720 to 1080 and 720 seemed to be quite a bit better, but nothing near what I would expect to be as a 'passing' grade. I did not change my sharpness, brightness, etc to see if it could be anything else first. I changed modes (movie, sports, etc), picture sizes, and just about everything else. Is this a common problem? Easy fix?

PS - I searched quite a bit to see if anyone else had already asked this, but didn't seem to find the exact same type of question, so I apologize if it's been asked before. Thanks in advance for the help.

Originally posted by Shackler79
Again, thus far, I've been very pleased with performance until last night. I put in Van Helsing and was completely displeased with the picture throughout most of this movie. When scenes were somewhat darker (most of the movie) and there were any blacks in the screen, they were showing up very awkward. Very hard to explain, but the seemed to either be pixelating or almost have a grey shadow, and not showing any detail. You couldn't see buttons on anyones clothes (that were black) and all-black scenes looked horrible.

I changed around from 720 to 1080 and 720 seemed to be quite a bit better, but nothing near what I would expect to be as a 'passing' grade. I did not change my sharpness, brightness, etc to see if it could be anything else first. I changed modes (movie, sports, etc), picture sizes, and just about everything else. Is this a common problem? Easy fix?

PS - I searched quite a bit to see if anyone else had already asked this, but didn't seem to find the exact same type of question, so I apologize if it's been asked before. Thanks in advance for the help. If you haven't purchased Digital Video Essentials I would recommend it to calibrate your display. The default modes are just that and to get the best PQ you need to calibrate each input. With DVE you can get a baseline on your HDMI input and use those to tweak the other inputs.

If you haven't purchased Digital Video Essentials I would recommend it to calibrate your display. The default modes are just that and to get the best PQ you need to calibrate each input. With DVE you can get a baseline on your HDMI input and use those to tweak the other inputs.

I've got a couple different ones that I've borrowed, but didn't expect the blacks to look so poorly (even in default settings). Maybe I'm over-exaggerating and it's a very easy fix.....:rolleyes:

Hopefully someone has had a similar situation happen to them and can relate. Thanks for the reply.

Originally posted by kdog044
The aspect ratio settings apply across all inputs. Your macro selection sounds like the best solution for you. There are codes for each input so you don't have to program the macro to select picture size and then one to press the proper number for the input desired. I don't know how you program macros on your remote but for anyone who uses the JP1 programmable remotes the codes I have found for the aspect ratios are as follows:

Protocol: NEC1
Main Device: 64

Natural 192 (OBC), 173 (EFC) , FC (hex)
TheaterWide 1 193 (OBC), 177 (EFC) , 7C (hex)
TheaterWide 2 243 (OBC), 147 (EFC) , 30 (hex)
Full 195 (OBC), 179 (EFC) , 3C (hex)

I haven't been able to find TheaterWide 3 but since I don't use it I haven't bothered to try and figure it out. Also, if anyone needs the one for Pic Size it is 084 (OBC), 100 (EFC), and D5 (hex). I downloaded a file for the 62HMX94 at the Yahoo JP1 forum in the file section for remote codes.
Thanks for the response kdog.

I have a Home Theater Master MX-700 and unsure how to import the JP1 codes. I'll go the macro route. Thanks again.

hi all..

I've had the Sammy HLP-55" series and was not very impressed and eventually returned for a full refund...

After seeing the Toshi dlp, the PQ is great...I'm thinking of getting the 62HM84 at Costco @ $2700

any known problems or concerns I should be looking for before I purchase?

lmk thanks.:)

what a bargain you can get!!! :) I paid $4500 here in TW! :( it's really a damn excellent TV except ghosting and gray bars.

Originally posted by rc-zombies
hi all..

I've had the Sammy HLP-55" series and was not very impressed and eventually returned for a full refund...

After seeing the Toshi dlp, the PQ is great...I'm thinking of getting the 62HM84 at Costco @ $2700

any known problems or concerns I should be looking for before I purchase?

lmk thanks.:)

RC-Zombies,

You may want to consider your purchase via OneCall. Their current price is $100 less than what you quoted for CostCo, shipping is included and you won't have to pay an additional $200+ in CA sales tax you'd get hit with at your local CostCo.

I purchased the 62HMX84 through them and consider it one of the best on-line transactions I've had. Their delivery is via FedEx freight and I was impressed with how careful they were when delivering.

As far as the TV goes, I'm quite pleased with it. It took a bit of calibration work with the DVE/Avia tools and some swapping of DVD players to figure out HDMI compatability has a few more cycles of evolution before all the idiosyncracies are worked out. The Component input/output path seems to exhibit far more predictable behavioral characteristics without a significant degradation of image quality. I hope most of this gets worked out in advance of the emergence of HD-DVD which theoretically should benefit more from the digital path HDMI offers.

Happy shopping,

MDA

if you guys live in the detrioit area. ABC warehouse has the 62hmx94 for less than $3400.00.
what a steal!!!!!!!

Originally posted by BF_Gunner

Anyone actually know what the real deal is here? I am sure I could get
either side to agree to either way (depending on the backbone of the
individual with whom you are speaking).

I don't know what the "real deal" is, but sales men are typically full of $h!4 and might not even be willfully decieving you. They could just retarded, most are. I always seem to know more than the sales guy, and I've usually only spent 30 minutes researching everything, heh... I'm sure most people find that.

But in the back page of my toshiba 52HM84 manual, it says that its covered for one year against bad workmanship or defection. Then it also adds that a bulb is a user replacement item, and a new lamp installation is not covered.

Then when you follow the star denoted beside that paragraph it seems to say the lamp is covered for 90 days against "poor workmanship" or "defection". I don't really understand it... but it sounds like if your lamp just burns out, you're paying for it.

Everywhere I've looked the lamp was never included in the warranty. If it was these companies wouldn't make any money on the extended service plan and they wouldn't even sell them.

Remember everyone, heh, they only sell these plans to make money, not to help you out. They're like insurance companies.. they seem like they're offering you peace of mind, but when you need them, they're going to try to weasel out of it cause you're costing them money.

I worked in a retail electronics place for a while when I was younger, and how many Extended Service Plans they sold was the single most important sales figure for an person. We need 4% for E.S.P.'s today.

I hope the warranty works out for you. Hopefully your tv will have a complete failure and you'll get your moneys worth. :)

Originally posted by phlewt
According to Toshiba customer service, all of their DLP TV's use a 6-segment color wheel. I do not know how fast it spins, however. In rare situations (usually when my eyes are moving fast, such as when I shake my head) I have seen a smattering of the rainbow effect on my Toshiba DLP. It is not at all bothersome to me, however. Do other people who are watching your TV see the effect as you see it?

My roommate has told me on occasion that he has seen it, but its nothing like me. If I could watch the tv and see one rainbow every 5 minutes I'd be happy. I don't have to shake my head either. I'm sitting about 10 feet away so I'm not too close, and all I need to do is move my eyes a bit across the screen with some darks and lights on the screen, the light color always produce rainbows. :( heh

As you can imagine, any scene on tv/dvd that is at night or in a dark room with a fixed light source is a nightmare for my eyes. I see them a lot less on bright colorful pictures, but I'll still always see them with any sudden movement of my eyes.

I'm trying desprately to find a better solution, or a better tv (though i like the Tosh's PQ). As I've noted in other threads I've heard everything from a 5 segment to an 8 segment wheel being in the toshiba. These number have come from various sources, including Toshiba reps (although they've given different answers)

I got my warantee thru One Call. They said the lamp was covered. I called the insurance company who underwrites the warrantee since in the slip it says "...belts, bulbs...etc are not covered. The company said the DLP lamp was not like a bulb in a refridgerator or vacuum cleaner but was an integral part of the set function and WAS covered. I asked for something in writing that said that the lamp was covered and they told me they could send it. Have not received it yet but neither have I received the actual warrantee, just a slip that confirms I have one with policy to follow. Guess I wil have to wait till I need a bulb to see what happens. At least for the HM 94, the bulb is only $200 retail. With the problems with the TV guiide and DLP not being a long used technology, I will be covered for 5 years against other potential problems.

Originally posted by ghettoiam
I don't know what the "real deal" is, but sales men are typically full of $h!4 and might not even be willfully decieving you. They could just retarded, most are. I always seem to know more than the sales guy, and I've usually only spent 30 minutes researching everything, heh... I'm sure most people find that.

But in the back page of my toshiba 52HM84 manual, it says that its covered for one year against bad workmanship or defection. Then it also adds that a bulb is a user replacement item, and a new lamp installation is not covered.

Then when you follow the star denoted beside that paragraph it seems to say the lamp is covered for 90 days against "poor workmanship" or "defection". I don't really understand it... but it sounds like if your lamp just burns out, you're paying for it.

Everywhere I've looked the lamp was never included in the warranty. If it was these companies wouldn't make any money on the extended service plan and they wouldn't even sell them.

Remember everyone, heh, they only sell these plans to make money, not to help you out. They're like insurance companies.. they seem like they're offering you peace of mind, but when you need them, they're going to try to weasel out of it cause you're costing them money.

I worked in a retail electronics place for a while when I was younger, and how many Extended Service Plans they sold was the single most important sales figure for an person. We need 4% for E.S.P.'s today.

I hope the warranty works out for you. Hopefully your tv will have a complete failure and you'll get your moneys worth. :)

I too have been unable to find anyone offering an extended warranty that covers the bulb. I normally do not buy extended warranties but if I could find one that covers the bulb I would consider it. The manual states that the bulb is covered for one year and a defective bulb will be exchanged for a new or refurbished one and is a user replaceable item. I take this to mean that they will not send someone to replace the bulb, unless you pay for the labor, but the bulb will sent it to you if within the first year. If you follow the asterick it leads you to the section that says it is only a 90 day warranty for commercial units.

After having guide problems, as well as some other funny acting symptoms on my November purchase and receiving a complete replacement set from Toshiba for mine in February, I called the outfit(One Call) that I bought the 62HM94 from and asked if I could still get a warrantee and if the bulb was covered. They said yes to both. I then called the underwriter for the warrantee and they assured me the "exclusion of bulbs, bags, belts etc" was for appliance light bulbs but the DLP lamp was essential for the operation of the unit and was covered by their warrantee. I won't believe it till I have a bulb go and they pay for a replacement though. I did ask for something in writing on the DLP lamp coverage but have not yet gotten anything from them yet. Still I figured that with DLP being pretty new and not really knowing what work on the TV might cost, I bought a 5 year warrantee. I rarely do this unless something is an unproven item. Even so, the bulb is $200 and easy to replace so if it is not covered, I am still satisfied wht the warrantee purchase. If it is covered, great! Just hope they get the guide working one of these days.

Originally posted by ghettoiam
But in the back page of my toshiba 52HM84 manual, it says that its covered for one year against bad workmanship or defection. Then it also adds that a bulb is a user replacement item, and a new lamp installation is not covered. I assume you are just referring to the labor as the lamp is covered for one year like the rest of the set. Since it is a "user replaceable" item the labor isn't covered but you can replace it yourself. Perhaps you were looking at the section for "Commercial Units" which is 90 days.

Limited One (1) Year Warranty on Lamp Unit*
TACP warrants the lamp unit in this DLP television against defects in materials or workmanship for a period of one (1) year after the date of original retail purchase. DURING THIS PERIOD, TACP WILL, AT TACP’S OPTION, EXCHANGE A DEFECTIVE LAMP UNIT WITH A NEW OR REFURBISHED LAMP UNIT WITHOUT CHARGE TO YOU. LABOR CHARGES FOR LAMP UNIT REPLACEMENT ARE NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. The lamp unit is a user replaceable component.

Originally posted by Shackler79
All,

After months of research on this board, I bought a 52HMX94 about two weeks ago from a local Home Theatre Concepts store. I had them ISF Calibrate the TV and have been very pleased with HD, PS2, and most DVD's up to this point. I've bought the Toshiba SD-V592 DVD/VHS combo player and via HDMI. One reason (of the many) that I went with DLP was because of it's ability to do excellent blacks/greys. Again, thus far, I've been very pleased with performance until last night. I put in Van Helsing and was completely displeased with the picture throughout most of this movie. When scenes were somewhat darker (most of the movie) and there were any blacks in the screen, they were showing up very awkward. Very hard to explain, but the seemed to either be pixelating or almost have a grey shadow, and not showing any detail. You couldn't see buttons on anyones clothes (that were black) and all-black scenes looked horrible.

I changed around from 720 to 1080 and 720 seemed to be quite a bit better, but nothing near what I would expect to be as a 'passing' grade. I did not change my sharpness, brightness, etc to see if it could be anything else first. I changed modes (movie, sports, etc), picture sizes, and just about everything else. Is this a common problem? Easy fix?

PS - I searched quite a bit to see if anyone else had already asked this, but didn't seem to find the exact same type of question, so I apologize if it's been asked before. Thanks in advance for the help.

I believe the problem is with the SD 592 combo player via the HDMI connection. I returned this player for the very same reason. Blacks were terrible and I couldn't correct it. You may find that the component connection will be better. I also tried the Samsung DVD 841 and found a similar problem with the blacks via HDMI (its been called the "black crush") but not component. I wound up buying the Harmon Kardon DVD 22 and have been extremely satisfied with the blacks and all the colors. Although it does not upscale its unique 480 progressive technology made it look better than the upscaled versions on the other two players which I compared essentially side by side.

Originally posted by FANTOSH
Sexon ...did u confirm with NSI that the bulb is not covered?

I purchased the warranty -- I deducted that the bulb isn't covered by the statement below -- but I am not for sure:

The following are not covered by the plan:

Any replacement of consumable or disposable items, such as knobs, batteries, filters, bulbs, spark plugs, stylus, vacuum cleaner bags and belts, printer cartridges,

Replacement of refrigerant coolant unless loss is caused by a covered failure,

Repair of cosmetic damage where the function of the product is unaffected,

Service calls where no covered fault is found,

Loss of use of the product or consequential loss of any kind, except food spoilage, as set forth above,

Loss or damage to stored data; repairs related to installed software; computer virus protection, prevention,
detection and/or repair; and computer hardware added after the original purchase,
International coverage is not available.

Sounds like the statement I got for the warrantee from One Call. The underwriter for that policy told me that the lamp was in fact covered as it was a necessary component, not like an appliance light bulb. One Call told me the lamp was covered but I contacted the insurance company underwriter to be sure. They confirmed the lamp was covered but until I need a lamp and they cover it I will be leary.

I bought my Set from Sears, got a 3 year warrenty which covers the Bulb and a free yearly Cleaning.

GOT it just before the BIG game, and it has no Issues ( Knock on Wood)!

LOVE IT along with my LG DVB418 HDMI Upconverting DVD player.

Watch The Incredibles Last Night with the Family and MAN that LOOKED GOOOOOD!

I will say that I on occasion I do see the Tempral Dithering that people say DLPs have, but ALL things being equal for the money size of My TV and to have HDTV in My Home Now Not Next Year or the Year after I can Def Live with that minor flaw of this technology.

PS I been playing the XBOX DEMO of Splinter CELL CHAOS Theory that I got From XBOX MAG , and Let me say OM ------ing GOD! this GAME IS UNREAL!!

52hm84
yamaha receiver
HD8300 cable box
xbox the only True HD CONSOLE of choice
JBL speakers and sub
lg dvb418 dvd player
No VCR who needs it with a DVR



bmw
:)

I just purchased a Toshiba 62HM94 DLP rear projection TV. However I have a small problem concerning the image on the screen. There is a slight "hourglass" effect, where vertical lines (mostly present when viewing a 4:3 image naturaly on the 16:9 screen) tend to bow outward toward the top and bottom of the screen. It's very noticible.

From reading in forums and around the internet it seems that this problem can be corrected in the design mode portion of the service menu.

The problem is that I can't seem to get into the design menu. I am aware that to get into the service menu you press mute twice then hold on the remote while pressing the menu button on the TV. Then a little "S" appears on the screen. After that, I read that to get into the design menu, you hold "Recall" on the remote and press menu on the TV. BUT IT DOESN'T WORK. Am I doing it worng? Did Toshiba change the way you get into the design mode for the 62HM94 or the HM94 series? Also, once I am in the design mode can I actually correct the problem, and if so, which funtion does this (letter code-abbreviation please).

Thanks

The designer mode was dropped from the Toshiba line. There still is the archaic ADDR mode but I have not seen anyone with a list of what the functions and codes are for this mode. My suggestion is to get a different set if this is brand new or at least have Toshiba send out a technician to take care of your problem. You don't want to mess around in the ADDR mode unless you know what you are doing.:eek:

I suspect that it's not really something that can be fixed. I have a 52hm94 with a slight hourglass effect as well, and from what I've read, just about everyone with a Toshiba DLP has it so some extent. Since the DLP chip is an array of mirrors that I suspect has pretty even rows and columns, the effect is likely due to the optics that focus the image onto the screen. As with any type of lens, there's always likely to be a small bit of bowing toward the edges. As the Toshibas are not very deep, it's probably not possible to create a lens that perfectly projects the image without slight bowing.

I don't claim to be an expert, so if someone knows more about this, feel free to correct me...it's simply speculation here.

Originally posted by djustl
I suspect that it's not really something that can be fixed. I have a 52hm94 with a slight hourglass effect as well, and from what I've read, just about everyone with a Toshiba DLP has it so some extent. Since the DLP chip is an array of mirrors that I suspect has pretty even rows and columns, the effect is likely due to the optics that focus the image onto the screen. As with any type of lens, there's always likely to be a small bit of bowing toward the edges. As the Toshibas are not very deep, it's probably not possible to create a lens that perfectly projects the image without slight bowing.

I don't claim to be an expert, so if someone knows more about this, feel free to correct me...it's simply speculation here.

An engineer friend of mine told me that all RPTVs that are based on microdisplay devices suffer from this problem to some degree because of the shallow depth of the cabinets. He suggested that the aberration can be eliminated, but the hardware involved would drive up the cost of the sets so much it would not be cost-effective for the manufacturers.

Quick question. What would be the best way to hook up a HD-cable box (Motorola/Comcast) to my 52hm84? It's connected via component, but iirc it was recommended to hook up the basic cable to the TV's Antenna input instead of the HD-box's input. Is this the right direction to be heading? Thanks in advance.

Mark

I would recommend that you go through the component (or DVI) output of your Motorola cable box and choose the appropriate input on your TV.

I have the Moto 6412 (dual tuner, PVR). It doesn't even have a RF connector.

I believe he is referring to SD programming. Some people get better PQ on SD channels by either connecting S-Video from the STB to the display or using a splitter and running one cable to the ANT input of the display. Either of these methods require you to switch inputs on the display to watch SD programs. It does have a benefit though. I also have the DCT6412 and the other day I recorded two programs at the same time in HD while watching the NCAA basketball on HD on my ANT1 input.

For HD using the STB you need to use either component or DVI. I chose to use DVI>HDMI for mine so I can have both component inputs free for PS2 and XBox.

Originally posted by kdog044
I believe he is referring to SD programming. Some people get better PQ on SD channels by either connecting S-Video from the STB to the display or using a splitter and running one cable to the ANT input of the display. Either of these methods require you to switch inputs on the display to watch SD programs. It does have a benefit though. I also have the DCT6412 and the other day I recorded two programs at the same time in HD while watching the NCAA basketball on HD on my ANT1 input.

For HD using the STB you need to use either component or DVI. I chose to use DVI>HDMI for mine so I can have both component inputs free for PS2 and XBox.

dont you have any hdmi- DVI sync issues?
do you ever turn off your dvr box?

Originally posted by bmob6633
dont you have any hdmi- DVI sync issues?
do you ever turn off your dvr box? I've never had a synching problem. I turn off my TV each night and leave the STB on all the time. The only problems I ever encounter is when switching from the ANT1 input to the STB occasionally I will get a split screen or blue cast on the STB channel. To correct it all I do is use the up or down channel and then back and everything is fine. it doesn't happen all the time so it's not a problem for me.

Originally posted by kdog044
I've never had a synching problem. I turn off my TV each night and leave the STB on all the time. The only problems I ever encounter is when switching from the ANT1 input to the STB occasionally I will get a split screen or blue cast on the STB channel. To correct it all I do is use the up or down channel and then back and everything is fine. it doesn't happen all the time so it's not a problem for me.

i ask cause, i used to have directv HD STB with DVI. i never had any issues, but the BOOK says turn on tv first then........bla bla bla. i wondered if the comcast 6412 had any problems. im using component right now. I havent deceided if im going to hook it up hdmi or not. Im still trying to figure out if i want to use the hdmi for my upconverting DVD player (will be getting the tosh v596). but ive heard of black issues with the v596 and our hm/hmx. using the hdmi. still dont know what to do. but its nice to know the 6412 doesnt need to be turned off to work properly.

Originally posted by kdog044
I believe he is referring to SD programming. Some people get better PQ on SD channels by either connecting S-Video from the STB to the display or using a splitter and running one cable to the ANT input of the display. Either of these methods require you to switch inputs on the display to watch SD programs. It does have a benefit though. I also have the DCT6412 and the other day I recorded two programs at the same time in HD while watching the NCAA basketball on HD on my ANT1 input.

Isn't switching back and forth TV inputs when switching between HD and SD channels a pain? I'm not entirely happy with SD PQ on my 52HMX84 but switching inputs depending on the channel you are watching seems to be too much of a hassle. Plus, I can't think of a way to program that into my universal remote.

I looked through most of this thread but its very exhausting. Does anyone know the base dimensions of the 52hm84...I wanna order a stand while I wait for deliviery, but I can't find this info anywhere.

Thanks

48" should cover ya

Originally posted by HDRookie
I looked through most of this thread but its very exhausting. Does anyone know the base dimensions of the 52hm84...I wanna order a stand while I wait for deliviery, but I can't find this info anywhere.

Thanks
I have a 52HMX84. The base width is a tad over 42".

Depth???

depth is about the same as the tv.

Originally posted by jemaerca
Isn't switching back and forth TV inputs when switching between HD and SD channels a pain? I'm not entirely happy with SD PQ on my 52HMX84 but switching inputs depending on the channel you are watching seems to be too much of a hassle. Plus, I can't think of a way to program that into my universal remote. I try to watch HD as much as possible.:D I use a JP1 programmable remote (RS 15-2117) so it's relatively easy to switch inputs

Originally posted by bmob6633
i ask cause, i used to have directv HD STB with DVI. i never had any issues, but the BOOK says turn on tv first then........bla bla bla. i wondered if the comcast 6412 had any problems. im using component right now. I havent deceided if im going to hook it up hdmi or not. Im still trying to figure out if i want to use the hdmi for my upconverting DVD player (will be getting the tosh v596). but ive heard of black issues with the v596 and our hm/hmx. using the hdmi. still dont know what to do. but its nice to know the 6412 doesnt need to be turned off to work properly. If you only have one HDMI input then you are probably better off using it for an upconverting DVD player. I have the 62HMX94 so use both inputs, one for the STB and one for the DVD player. I had read of possible synch issues but I don't know if people are turning off the STB or not. I never turned off the STB even when I had the standard digital box. I am getting spoiled with the dual tuner DVR and thankfully I wont have to miss Lost anymore, plus being able to watch it in HD.:D

Has anyone had success with getting a cable card installed? If so, can you tell what your cable provider is and if you had to do anything special to get it to work. Also, let me know what TV you have and if you have any other cable connections like a STB in addition to the cable card.

I had Comcast out Saturday to try and install one and had no success. The TV recognizes the card but the channels would never get recognized nor can I see an IP address for the card. I'm probably going to try Toshiba Monday as Comcast wasn't able to figure anything out. They did try two different cable cards.

Thanks for the base size answer guys...can anyone recommend a nice stand to put it on? I'm gonna make a thread I guess asking to see what everyone has them sitting on. Thanks again

Kdogg I have Midcontinent Communications for my cable provider(Which are some way connected to Comcast)

And I had the same problem my TV picked up the card but no digital channels would work. What they found out was they had to close out there work order to get the card to work properly...Only took them 1.5 hours and two workers to figure that out. :)

Originally posted by Rudy1
An engineer friend of mine told me that all RPTVs that are based on microdisplay devices suffer from this problem to some degree because of the shallow depth of the cabinets. He suggested that the aberration can be eliminated, but the hardware involved would drive up the cost of the sets so much it would not be cost-effective for the manufacturers.

That must be why that 61" RCA Scenium DLP that is only about 6 inches deep costs twice as much as a regular DLP set. I wonder if that set has any bowing?

Jeff

Originally posted by BasicCable
Kdogg I have Midcontinent Communications for my cable provider(Which are some way connected to Comcast)

And I had the same problem my TV picked up the card but no digital channels would work. What they found out was they had to close out there work order to get the card to work properly...Only took them 1.5 hours and two workers to figure that out. :) If you go into the cable card menu do you see the IP address of the card? My Tv recognizes the card but no IP Address and the state is always WAIT_TO_START.

Originally posted by whjeffs
That must be why that 61" RCA Scenium DLP that is only about 6 inches deep costs twice as much as a regular DLP set. I wonder if that set has any bowing?

Jeff

Jeff,

I found this review of that set.
http://www.ultimateavmag.com/directviewandptvtelevisions/205rca/
I wonder what would happen if the magnification of the image produced by microdisplay devices were to be done digitally? Surely it's possible with enough memory and computing power.

---Rudy

Originally posted by HDRookie
Thanks for the base size answer guys...can anyone recommend a nice stand to put it on? I'm gonna make a thread I guess asking to see what everyone has them sitting on. Thanks again

There is a toshiba made stand for the tv. It's designed to go with the tv, it has two shelves in it, it's awesome. I got my stand thrown in for free, but there is a stand built specifically for the tv, and I'm sure any place that sells the tv sells the stand. Just ask them to throw it in for free.

Originally posted by kdog044
Has anyone had success with getting a cable card installed? If so, can you tell what your cable provider is and if you had to do anything special to get it to work. Also, let me know what TV you have and if you have any other cable connections like a STB in addition to the cable card.

I had Comcast out Saturday to try and install one and had no success. The TV recognizes the card but the channels would never get recognized nor can I see an IP address for the card. I'm probably going to try Toshiba Monday as Comcast wasn't able to figure anything out. They did try two different cable cards.
I'm in San Antonio with Time Warner Cable.
After three months of pestering them, TWC finally decided they would try a cable card in my 52hmx94. It's a Scientific Atlanta card. The first time they couldn't get it to download a firmware update into the cablecard, then after they left I got it to. But, not all the channels that were supposed to work worked. Then I discovered that after a random amount of time (minutes to days) the cablecard would stop working (and my OTA digital channels would go away) unless I removed and re-inserted the cable card. The second time they were out they figured out how to make all the channels work (cable company configuration problem), but even with another cablecard it still stops working randomly (exactly same problem with second card). Toshiba service guy has ordered a PCB to replace in the TV, but I don't have high expectations.

BTW, you aren't supposed to show an IP address in the status screen, that's something that only shows up with two-way cable boxes. I don't have an IP address, but it works (well, for a while anyway) w/o an IP address.


Gary

Originally posted by kdog044
If you go into the cable card menu do you see the IP address of the card? My Tv recognizes the card but no IP Address and the state is always WAIT_TO_START.

It said that exactly until the called in and closed out there service order....For some reason the card wasn't working until then.

It confused them for a while.....If thats not what fixed my CC...then it was one heck of coincidence then.

anybody got powerstrip settings for the hmx94 series? been trying to hook up my newly built htpc but can never get the resolutions right. I have an ATI 9600 (non pro) with the ATI HDTV Component Dongle. Thanks in advance.

I have a cablecard, Comcast, NJ. It works well from the word go. They had to add it on at the Central Office. I was the 7th in the area. When my SA had problems, I just switched to the Cablecard. Unfortunately, Comcast also stripped the signal from PBS so I don't get the TV Guide. They stink!!!!

Regards.

Originally posted by HDRookie
Thanks for the base size answer guys...can anyone recommend a nice stand to put it on? I'm gonna make a thread I guess asking to see what everyone has them sitting on. Thanks again

I have a 52HM94 and have it sitting on an OPPLI stand from IKEA. It fits perfectly. I have each side flanked with BONDE bookcases from IKEA also. This is where I have my speakers and dvds, etc. The base of the tv isn't as wide as the OPPLI stand, but the tv itself with the side speakers has pretty much the same width as the stand. The bookcases on either side are flush with the stand and tv.

Does anyone have a service manual for a 46HM94? Mine's acting up and the service center said "no problem found" after 2 weeks in the shop!

Sometimes, you just have to do it yourself...

what issues are you having

Originally posted by FrankieP
anybody got powerstrip settings for the hmx94 series? been trying to hook up my newly built htpc but can never get the resolutions right. I have an ATI 9600 (non pro) with the ATI HDTV Component Dongle. Thanks in advance.

Dont need powerstrip unless you are doing somthing unusual.
Try the predefined settings...one of them 11-somthing X 6-somthing
cures overscan and makes the desktop fit perfectly.

Victor
==========================

To bmob6633,

I'm having a really wierd issue where the system will not turn on in the mornings after it's been off for a while. Remote doesn't work not the front panel buttons. After a while it'll start flashing the red LED 3 times, then repeat. I have to hit the reset buttiom on the side of the unit before it'll do anything, and then reprogram channel memory and everything else.

It was just in the shop for 2 weeks with "no problem found"...

None of the timers are set. Basic Digital Cable signal (Houston TWC...) through a splitter so I can get cable direct to the TV, and the DVR receives it's own signal from the other side of the splitter.

Could it be the TV Guide set up screwing with the programming?

Heck, I'm lost.

My 62HM84 does the same thing when the output of my Dish 921 receiver is connected direct to the HDMI input. Using component only the TV starts up fine, and since I added a DVI/HDMI switcher, the problem does not occur.

Originally posted by Chetty

I'm having a really wierd issue where the system will not turn on in the mornings after it's been off for a while. Remote doesn't work not the front panel buttons. After a while it'll start flashing the red LED 3 times, then repeat. I have to hit the reset buttiom on the side of the unit before it'll do anything, and then reprogram channel memory and everything else.

It was just in the shop for 2 weeks with "no problem found"...

None of the timers are set. Basic Digital Cable signal (Houston TWC...) through a splitter so I can get cable direct to the TV, and the DVR receives it's own signal from the other side of the splitter.

Could it be the TV Guide set up screwing with the programming?

Heck, I'm lost. I doubt that the TVGOS is the problem. What DVR are you using and is it connected via component or DVD/HDMI? I remember someone else having a problem with a TV and a STB when using DVD/HDMI connections. I think it was a SA STB and HDMI. If you are using one of these perhaps you might want to try a component connection and see if the problem persists.

As an FYI, I have my 62HMX94 connected to the Motorola DCT6412 DVR via DVI>HDMI and also the cable feed split and connected to ANT1. I've never had a problem turning on the set no matter how long the set is off. I also have the fast restart enabled.

Originally posted by kdog044
Has anyone had success with getting a cable card installed? If so, can you tell what your cable provider is and if you had to do anything special to get it to work. Also, let me know what TV you have and if you have any other cable connections like a STB in addition to the cable card.

I had Comcast out Saturday to try and install one and had no success. The TV recognizes the card but the channels would never get recognized nor can I see an IP address for the card. I'm probably going to try Toshiba Monday as Comcast wasn't able to figure anything out. They did try two different cable cards.

I have the same problem as you described in more detail in the TVGOS thread. I have a 46HM94 and Motorola cablecard. I've been through 2 cards, both of which ended up "unable to change channel, acquiring map" message, even after I left the TV on for several hours.

The card I have now didn't have the channel map acquisition problem at first, it simply never decrypted any of the channels I was supposed to receive. If you search back in the thread, you'll see my history with that. More recently, about the time Comcast starting simulcasting the analog channels, it started with the unable to tune issue. It's now completely useless and I've removed it. Before, at least it would map the QAM-in-the-clear to "virtual" channel numbers, instead of 119-1, etc.

Not sure whether to continue this here or over in the TVGOS thread. I'll probably reply to you over there as well. I was wondering too if a firmware update, apparently through SD card, would help. I haven't called Toshiba about this -- I figured I'd let it ripen for a while.

I had the 52hm84 for about 3 weeks, and found out a few problems, just to see if they are malfuntions or normal to this set.

1. Fan shut down It happened twice within 3 weeks, and it seems like only happened after I used the TV for a long period of time (>5 hrs). When you turn off your TV, normally the green light should be flashing with no image, and you can still hear the fan is running (I supposed that was their cooling process). However, both incident happened when I turned off the TV, the green light was flashing for like about 10 sec, then all of a sudden all the lights just went out, and I can hear the fan had stop too. Since it seemed kinda weird, so I tried to turn it back on. It will not start at the beginning, so the TV will have the red light on (always), and the green light flashing. According to the instruction menu, it means its re-trying. After a few times it did start with an image. When I turned it off again, everything went back to normal (greenlight flashing, fan is running to cool down), and it will be 'completely off' after a minute or so. Is my TV defective?

2. Ghosting on Texts. I can see the 'ghosting' on the texts when I was playing PS2 (Composite video to Receiver to TV, Wide 1). Is that normal? Anything I can do to get rid of it? I will try to see if playing it in natural make a difference....

3. Bowing effect. The bottom part is a bit stretch out compared to the top when viewing with 3:4 format. I pretty much gave up in this one coz it seems like everyone is having problem with, not myself alone.

4. Mosiac effect. When the screen is moving in motion, I can see the image is 'loosening', once it stop moving, its good. Is that common too? I was under the impression the DLP has a better refresh rate compared to LCDs, so its more suitable for sports fans. I never able to notice any mosiac in the store with all the TVs, but I guess maybe I just wasn't focused.... Is there other TVs has less mosiac problem?

Thanks in advance

Tom

Well, after resetting it via the side panel, I went in a reset to factory defaults via the on screen menu. I did NOT set the TVGOS up and guess what, the TV came on the first time I pushed the button!

OK, more info: Yesterday when it would not turn on the red light only was flashing 3 times, stop, 3 times, stop, and on and on and on. According to a 52HM94 manual this means the color wheel has stopped. but the TV was off so I hope it HAD stopped!??!?! When I hit the reset button in the side panel it came right up.

Cable signal is split so it goes direct to the TV and the Sci-American DVR. The DVR is connected via componant inputs.

I know I'm not having power issues to the hoouse, I actually monitor that via a UPS on the computer. Still confused but at least it works... today.

I have a 46hm94. Since I received it, I have found 2 scratches on the screen. Is the soft plastic the actual screen or is just a protective cover?
Also if it is a cover can I buff the scratches out?
Thanks

Chetty,
As the Tech guy described it to me the trouble shooting lights just gets you to a starting point for diagnostic testing. In other words I had a green and red light blinking at the same time in 3 blink intervals. Manual says this is lamp problem. He would check lamp, then wheel, then light engine then...so on. My problem turned out to be a module in the light engine overheating. A good tech should be able to communicate with Toshiba to find out where your problem lies. Try another Tech on Toshiba's list. Ask them a few questions about their history with DLPs.

Anybody use a line doubler to enhance the pic on their HM?

Thanks

Originally posted by maddogFool
I was wondering too if a firmware update, apparently through SD card, would help. I haven't called Toshiba about this -- I figured I'd let it ripen for a while.

Check my thread I started here.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=525220

Apparently there is firmware to address problems specifically with Comcast and CC's. You should call and get it sent to you to see if it addresses your problem. If you call tomorrow you might be able to get it sent next week as the support person indicated they don't ship anything the last three days of the month because of inventory.

Originally posted by kdog044
I doubt that the TVGOS is the problem. Perhaps I spoke too soon. When I pulled my cable card today and tried to access the TVGOS the TV reset and I lost all the listings. This happened one time last week as well while speaking with Toshiba about TVGOS problems. When it happened the TV went out with the green light blinking three times. I didn't press anything and the TV tried to start three times before I was able to get a picture. I don't know if is some type of memory issue with the TVGOS but I plan on leaving the cable card out until I get the firmware from Toshiba to try and get my cable card working. Hopefully I can get the complete listing but four days is the most I have had due to the two unplanned resets and the one I initated when trying to get the cable card working.

Originally posted by kdog044
Check my thread I started here.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=525220

Apparently there is firmware to address problems specifically with Comcast and CC's. You should call and get it sent to you to see if it addresses your problem. If you call tomorrow you might be able to get it sent next week as the support person indicated they don't ship anything the last three days of the month because of inventory.

I called today (3/29) and they are sending me the firmware update. The CSR's name was Michelle, and while she gave me what I wanted, because I explicitly asked for it after explaining my issue, she did not offer any additional insight into the problem. I asked that she make sure the tech Paul got my info, as I've learned here that he's gathering info. She said it would get to the appropriate person. I also mentioned I had TV Guide issues, but didn't pursue that as the firmware update might change my behavior. I'll burn that bridge when I come to it. My guide is not as flakey as some report, and my program info even survived me inserting the CC so I could record its info. Also, amazingly enough, it loaded the channel map with no problem (as I had reported previously, I had the infinite channel acquisition message), and it mapped the network HD as expected. Perhaps headend instability is responsible for our problems there.

I'll post further on the new thread after I receive it. Glad someone started one, as I was waiting for hijack complaints. I don't know what to expect, but I suppose I'll need to have Comcast come out again and reprovision or swap the card. I won't be lucky enough for it to just start working.

Originally posted by maddogFool
I don't know what to expect, but I suppose I'll need to have Comcast come out again and reprovision or swap the card. I won't be lucky enough for it to just start working. You may not have to have Comcast return once you get the software. According to the Comcast tech once they "provision" the account the information is on your cable and if you unplug any of the boxes they should automatically get the proper information and start working again. I don't know how true this is but I asked specifically if Toshiba had a fix for the card would I need to have them back out. I guess we will have to see but if I load the software and still have no success I will have them come back and try to send the "hit" again.

You can just call the comcast service number and the people you talk to can send a hit. I've had it done many times.

Originally posted by a.b.christie
You can just call the comcast service number and the people you talk to can send a hit. I've had it done many times. I had two guys from Comcast show up this morning to try and help with the problem and I wasn't even expecting them. I told them about the software and it turns out they had just came from another subscriber in my area with the 52HMX94 and the same problem. Apparently he had already contacted Toshiba and is also waiting on the software to arrive. I have the Comcast supervisors number and the guys told me to contact them either way as they want to make sure I get the problem resolved. I have to give Comcast credit as they do appear to be making an effort to help me out. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the software will help but based on Alan's lack of success I'm not feeling totally confident.

After lots of e-mails and a phone call on the issue of which resolution to feed the DLPs, the apparent final answer came.

Let me indicate that Toshiba Customer Service did call my house, which I found impressive, but the lady, although very kind, didn't seem to understand the nature of the issue. She offered advise based on the User Manual and also catalog advertising for this and other units, and her answer was that the HDMI input was designed with 1080i as the best signal and even indicated that DLP units upconverted the signals to 1080i if image quality was high.

I told her to take the issue to the next level and also e-mailed again, this time with a shorter version of the issue and including our observations of the Manual. This is their final answer:

"Dear Julio,

Thanks for writing!

The recommendation in the owners manual was an out take from or CRT HD TVs but it does not hold true with the DLPs. DLP TVs have a native output of 720p which would be the best signal to run on those units.

Rick
Toshiba Customer Service"

As you can see, many people here was correct indicating there was something wrong with the Manual and that they were like cutting-pasting indications; something that, to say the least, is shameful for a high-tec company.

Also all that said that 720p was the best were correct, at least from the technical and specs point of view. It would be nice if someone could explain definitely why some sources look better at 1080i (better digitalization, better de-interlacing?) Maybe it's just a matter of taste, but probably maintaining the 720p output on the sources will give the best average image quality for all programs.

I admit I was wrong in some of my previous answers, although I still believe that the system does something like a re-size for the 1080i signals; but that's just me.

I hope this message from Toshiba helps everyone here.

Originally posted by cfung
I had the 52hm84 for about 3 weeks, and found out a few problems, just to see if they are malfuntions or normal to this set.

1. Fan shut down It happened twice within 3 weeks, and it seems like only happened after I used the TV for a long period of time (>5 hrs). When you turn off your TV, normally the green light should be flashing with no image, and you can still hear the fan is running (I supposed that was their cooling process). However, both incident happened when I turned off the TV, the green light was flashing for like about 10 sec, then all of a sudden all the lights just went out, and I can hear the fan had stop too...

Tom

I've seen some of that too, it's happening like two or three times weekly, and usually after hours of it being on. I asked Customer Service and the lady there told me they had a 52HM84 at their test room and they also had noticed the issue.

She said that shouldn't be a problem unless it happens too frequently...I guess we'll have to watch it.

well after the tv in the shop for a week, for my picture loss problem, i let them know a member on this forum had the same problem. A repair shop in tenn. replaced the light engnie. it solved his picture loss problem. so the repair shop got auth. yesterday to replace the light engine in my set.
It will take a week for parts, another week to install & test. about 1 1/2 months without my 62" .... damn!
Hopefully it fixes it

Originally posted by BF_Gunner
... Anyone actually know what the real deal is here? I am sure I could get
either side to agree to either way (depending on the backbone of the
individual with whom you are speaking).

Thanks!
Gary

I would say that an extended warranty is over and the same as whatever the original company states. As told by others here, the LAMP UNIT is covered by the warranty and for 1 year, so your extended deal must include this part. This is not a simple bulb, it's the LAMP UNIT and what is not covered is the labor of uninstalling/installing from the TV.

This is what "user replaceable component" probably means; they won't send a technician for free to replace the unit in your TV, but the unit itself is free.

Stay with your extended plan and don't loose the TV's manual, because the wording is there. This is important because in those 5 years it's likely that you'll need to replace the lamp at least once and that's what, $200 or $300? That's a nice save.

OK, All week without setting up TVGOS and the system is working perfectly!

I'm beginning to believe it's in the programming of the TVGOS...

Originally posted by Chetty
OK, All week without setting up TVGOS and the system is working perfectly!

I'm beginning to believe it's in the programming of the TVGOS... Chetty, you may be right. I spoke with TVGOS today and they are aware of a problem with the downloads. Apparently bad packets are being processed which eventually corrupts the data and causes the listings to be wiped out. I had the TV reset on me twice when trying to access the guide and each time the listings and channel line up are gone. Since you haven't reprogrammed your TV the packets aren't being processed. They are supposed to let me know when they have a fix for it and once they do it will be sent with the normal downloads from the VBI channel. Mine hasn't reset since the 28th but it seems like around 5 days before it happens. The woman from TVGOS said it would probably reset again once the corruption reaches a certain point. When the TV did reset it would try to restart on it's own and the last time after about 3 or 4 attempts the TV did come on.

Hey there everyone, I was hoping to get some feedback on this problem I'm having. My set is the Tosh 52HMX84 and I only had it for 4 weeks and what seems to be happening is that the red light stays solid and the green light blinks and restart automatically. There is no picture at all and the set restarts, from what I understand it could be the lamp but the technician came by today and said it was not the lamp and will have to order some parts for the unit as he failed to mention which ones in particular. All the technician did was check the power supply, wiring on the set (on/off wiring) and the lamp itself. Any ideas what the problem could be and if any members here have shared this issue what was the cause of it and how can it be taken care of quickly?

Did you read Chetty' s posts? Are you using the TVGOS? It could be related to the corruption issue which causes the guide listings to wipe out. it has caused my set to reset when pressing the guide but it is possible if it happens during a download when you try to turn on the set it could be causing this behavior. You need to count the time between blinks as there are two potential types.

UPDATE: I posted earlier about a problem with the remote having a high pitched squeal when you press or use the backlight and others reported they noticed the same thing. I had Toshiba send me a new remote and it has the same problem so it must a design defect. It's no big deal as I don't even use it since I have a JP1 programmable one but I thought I would pass it along for any of you that do use your remote.

Ok I tried reading this whole thread, but I only got to like page 50. I just purchased a sammy 46" dlp about 25 days ago. I convinced best buy to pay for the ISF calibration on the TV. Yet, there is only one dealer in my area that does ISF calibrations and he told me he would not do the sammy's because they are a peice of junk.

Well I was in his store looking at receivers and speakers and I remembered that he carried the toshiba DLPs. So I asked him if I got the toshiba from best buy, if he would calibrate it for me...and he said yes.

Now I have already talked with BB and they are going to deliver the new toshiba 52" and take my sammy 46" away. And its only going to cost me $85 more.

The biggest reason I am going to be using this tv is for playing xbox. I just want to make sure that this will do a better or as good job as the sammy did. My sammy didnt have any lag issues...which is a major concern with those sets. Also SD cable looked real washed out.

I do know one thing though, when I was at the ISF calibrators audio/video store I asked him to change the channel on the toshiba from HD to SD and he told me it was already on an analog channel. I couldnt believe it. His calibrated toshiba looked better in analog than my sammy looked in HD. I should be getting this set in the middle of next week.

how much was the calibration?
free to you, i know. but whats the charge?

the calibration is going to be over $500...and my extended service plan(the warranty) only cost $399...so it was a deal to me.

Does anyone have a Iscan HD+ hooked to their Tosh DLP? Did it make a big difference? Was it worth the $1400?

Thanks

Originally posted by kdog044
UPDATE: I posted earlier about a problem with the remote having a high pitched squeal when you press or use the backlight and others reported they noticed the same thing. I had Toshiba send me a new remote and it has the same problem so it must a design defect. It's no big deal as I don't even use it since I have a JP1 programmable one but I thought I would pass it along for any of you that do use your remote.

My Toshiba remote makes the noise as well. I also have a RadioShack 15-2117 8-in-one IR/RF remote that is JP1 programmable and has backlighting and this remote also makes a high pitch squeal when the backlighting is on although it is not as loud as the Toshiba's remote. I guess it's just something in the type of electronics they use for the backlighting.

Jeff

Originally posted by whjeffs
My Toshiba remote makes the noise as well. I also have a RadioShack 15-2117 8-in-one IR/RF remote that is JP1 programmable and has backlighting and this remote also makes a high pitch squeal when the backlighting is on although it is not as loud as the Toshiba's remote. I guess it's just something in the type of electronics they use for the backlighting.

Jeff Jeff, I have four of the same remotes and I never noticed it before. So I went and checked all four of them and you are right. It is a lot quieter then the Toshiba remote and that's why I guess I never noticed the sound before. By the way, how do you like the remote? Have you built a file for the TV yet? If not, feel free to start with the one I created that you can use with Key Master and IR. I am attaching it for you. I found the codes for all of the picture modes except TW3. Let me know if you have any I don't have listed as I have the file posted on the Yahoo JP1 forum.

has anyone here got their tosh, professionaly isf calibrated? someone in another thread said they saw it and was amazing, wondering if anyone knows the diff is?

well BB is picking up my samsung 4663 and dropping off the HM5284 this saturday, then after about 100 hours on the bulb im going to have it ISF calibrated...so I will know after that.

But I have seen the 6194 calibrated and this is a funny story. I asked the owner if he could change the channel to an analog channel from the HD channel...and he laughed and said it was already on an analog channel. Thats right...the ISF calibrated analog channel looked better than my HD channels. Now he was using satelite where I use cable, so that probably made a huge difference, but it was a lot nicer.

Originally posted by maddogFool
I have the same problem as you described in more detail in the TVGOS thread. I have a 46HM94 and Motorola cablecard. I've been through 2 cards, both of which ended up "unable to change channel, acquiring map" message, even after I left the TV on for several hours.

The card I have now didn't have the channel map acquisition problem at first, it simply never decrypted any of the channels I was supposed to receive. If you search back in the thread, you'll see my history with that. More recently, about the time Comcast starting simulcasting the analog channels, it started with the unable to tune issue. It's now completely useless and I've removed it. Before, at least it would map the QAM-in-the-clear to "virtual" channel numbers, instead of 119-1, etc.

Not sure whether to continue this here or over in the TVGOS thread. I'll probably reply to you over there as well. I was wondering too if a firmware update, apparently through SD card, would help. I haven't called Toshiba about this -- I figured I'd let it ripen for a while.

I am have the same problem as well. 3 visits by Comcast techs unsuccessful, all I could see was one channel and was unable to change the channel, TV indicated tha it was updating channel info and cable card is in an "unknown" state in the menu settings. I contacted Toshiba and they sent me the latest firmware update. I successfully installed the Toshiba update and will have Comcast return on 4/18 when I am off from work. I will keep you posted.

I just bought a 62HM14 from Costco. The instruction manual also has that model designation. It was manufactured in March 2005. Anyone have any ideas if there are differences between this and the HM84 or is this just a differentiated model number to prevent price matching?

Originally posted by taz21
I am have the same problem as well. 3 visits by Comcast techs unsuccessful, all I could see was one channel and was unable to change the channel, TV indicated tha it was updating channel info and cable card is in an "unknown" state in the menu settings. I contacted Toshiba and they sent me the latest firmware update. I successfully installed the Toshiba update and will have Comcast return on 4/18 when I am off from work. I will keep you posted. Taz21, Can you respond in the following thread when Comcast returns?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=525220

I have the firmware ordered and hopefully it will be in by Thursday or Friday. I will be calling Comcast back if the card doesn't start working when I update the firmware.

Originally posted by yatra
I just bought a 62HM14 from Costco. The instruction manual also has that model designation. It was manufactured in March 2005. Anyone have any ideas if there are differences between this and the HM84 or is this just a differentiated model number to prevent price matching? From previous posts I have seen it is the same set but has an exlcusive model number from Costco.

so Julio, what you say is Tosh user manual is wrong that 1080i isn't the best resol to get best PQ out of this HM(X) DLP? instead 720p gives you the best overall PQ.

a guy told me what he got when talked to Tosh CS rep. this DLP converts all signals (480i/p, 1080i/p) to 720p. if this is true, then what printed on manual is really wrong.

is there any method can check what the input resol is? 62HM84.
tks.

Originally posted by Julio Bro!
After lots of e-mails and a phone call on the issue of which resolution to feed the DLPs, the apparent final answer came.

Let me indicate that Toshiba Customer Service did call my house, which I found impressive, but the lady, although very kind, didn't seem to understand the nature of the issue. She offered advise based on the User Manual and also catalog advertising for this and other units, and her answer was that the HDMI input was designed with 1080i as the best signal and even indicated that DLP units upconverted the signals to 1080i if image quality was high.

I told her to take the issue to the next level and also e-mailed again, this time with a shorter version of the issue and including our observations of the Manual. This is their final answer:

"Dear Julio,

Thanks for writing!

The recommendation in the owners manual was an out take from or CRT HD TVs but it does not hold true with the DLPs. DLP TVs have a native output of 720p which would be the best signal to run on those units.

Rick
Toshiba Customer Service"

As you can see, many people here was correct indicating there was something wrong with the Manual and that they were like cutting-pasting indications; something that, to say the least, is shameful for a high-tec company.

Also all that said that 720p was the best were correct, at least from the technical and specs point of view. It would be nice if someone could explain definitely why some sources look better at 1080i (better digitalization, better de-interlacing?) Maybe it's just a matter of taste, but probably maintaining the 720p output on the sources will give the best average image quality for all programs.

I admit I was wrong in some of my previous answers, although I still believe that the system does something like a re-size for the 1080i signals; but that's just me.

I hope this message from Toshiba helps everyone here.

Yesterday a technician from the authorized Toshiba repair center attempted
to replace the HDMI board in my 52HM84, in an attempt to improve ghosting
on the HDMI inputs. When he turned the power back on, something got really
hot and smoked. The TV is now dead.

Toshiba refuses to authorize a replacement, they say I have to get it
repaired. The repair shop insists they will only do what Toshiba authorizes.
I bought the TV last october from Best Buy, so the 30 day window to return
it there is gone.

So choose carefully when deciding whether to chase improvement of the HDMI
ghosting.

Originally posted by wmcneil
Yesterday a technician from the authorized Toshiba repair center attempted
to replace the HDMI board in my 52HM84, in an attempt to improve ghosting
on the HDMI inputs. When he turned the power back on, something got really
hot and smoked. The TV is now dead.

Toshiba refuses to authorize a replacement, they say I have to get it
repaired. The repair shop insists they will only do what Toshiba authorizes.
I bought the TV last october from Best Buy, so the 30 day window to return
it there is gone.

So choose carefully when deciding whether to chase improvement of the HDMI
ghosting.
In a separate thread you started on this, you say that you bought it from CC while reporting BB on this thread. So, which one is it?

Originally posted by jemaerca
In a separate thread you started on this, you say that you bought it from CC while reporting BB on this thread. So, which one is it? It would have to be Best Buy as Circuit City does not carry Toshiba televisions.;)

Originally posted by jemaerca
In a separate thread you started on this, you say that you bought it from CC while reporting BB on this thread. So, which one is it?

Woops, that other thread was accidental, I have asked for it to be deleted.

The store is Best Buy.

Originally posted by Julio Bro!
Also all that said that 720p was the best were correct, at least from the technical and specs point of view. It would be nice if someone could explain definitely why some sources look better at 1080i (better digitalization, better de-interlacing?) Maybe it's just a matter of taste, but probably maintaining the 720p output on the sources will give the best average image quality for all programs.

I admit I was wrong in some of my previous answers, although I still believe that the system does something like a re-size for the 1080i signals; but that's just me.

Wow, I actually read 107 pages... took me like a week to do it! I have the 46HM84. As far as the 720p arguement goes, Last night i set my STB to "passthrough" so that the 720p signal stays to it's native res., same goes for the 1080i signals. So to sum up, if you are watching HD content, it's better to keep it at it's native signal resolution. FOX programming is 720p, last night I had my STB set to 720p watching American Idol and it looked perfect. (it's very hard to see a difference between 1080i and 720p). Also when the show HOUSE came on, it looked better set to 720p than at 1080i. You see for a month now my STB was set to 1080i, because my thinking was that would be better. Now we know the official res. of our DLP sets is 720p... so i will now set my upconverting DVD player to 720p instead of 1080i. FYI: i purchased my 46HM84 about a month ago from BUYDIG.COM for a very good price... actually best price online doing a pricegrabber.com search - it was free shipping, i got the matching stand, the Toshiba SD-5970 upconverting player, and a warranty plan all from BUYDIG.com for a nice price...(I read though that Sears does pricematching of online prices... so I could have done the brick & mortor route...oh well)...

Last night i set my STB to "passthrough" so that the 720p signal stays to it's native res., same goes for the 1080i signals. So to sum up, if you are watching HD content, it's better to keep it at it's native signal resolution.

I disagree.

If I set my STB to 1080i output, the PQ is actually CONSIDERABLY better than 720p signal. Makes sense since you are providing the TV with a higher quality signal for it to eventually downconvert to the 720p it has to. I guess it doesn't muck with it too much, and that's why the 1080i signal looks way better than the 720p. For the record I have DISH NETWORK HD receiver doing this.

Now of course if you start out with crap, such as a DVD which is 480i, upconverting via your DVD player 720p vs 1080i shows NO difference whatsoever (between those 2 rez that is, but there IS a big improvement over 480p of course).

I notice a difference depending on how I have my STB connected to my 62HM84.

I have the Comcast HD box (Motorola DVR) connected via a DVI-HDMI cable, and the picture is definitely better when I set the STB to output a 720p signal vs a 1080i. This is especially true when I watch a HD channel that is native 720p; American Idol on FOX-HD last night was incredible (the picture quality, I mean).

When I had the STB connected via component, I could see very little difference between setting the box to 720p and 1080i, with a slight edge to 1080i (maybe).

FWIW.

Dave



Originally posted by ndahbar
I disagree.

If I set my STB to 1080i output, the PQ is actually CONSIDERABLY better than 720p signal. Makes sense since you are providing the TV with a higher quality signal for it to eventually downconvert to the 720p it has to. I guess it doesn't muck with it too much, and that's why the 1080i signal looks way better than the 720p. For the record I have DISH NETWORK HD receiver doing this.

I have mine connected via component. Regardless of the native rez used by the broadcaster for a particular channel, 1080i output from the STB results in superior PQ over 720p.

If anyone has a Dish HD receiver (I think it's the 902 model) with a DLP set, test it out and let us know.

But the difference for me is HUGE so that's why I keep it on 1080i regardless of channel. It's a bit sad, because sometimes, some of the 720p-native channels like Fox-HD jitter slightly horizontally (which has been explained in other threads as to why that happens). However the jitter is minimal enough to be acceptable in return for a better PQ.

And for the record, this claim of "progressive is better for sports or fast-action viewing" is, IMO, hogwash. I've never seen that, not once. No difference. No offense to anyone.

Originally posted by fudgebrown
FYI: i purchased my 46HM84 about a month ago from BUYDIG.COM for a very good price... actually best price online doing a pricegrabber.com search - it was free shipping, i got the matching stand, the Toshiba SD-5970 upconverting player, and a warranty plan all from BUYDIG.com for a nice price...(I read though that Sears does pricematching of online prices... so I could have done the brick & mortor route...oh well)...


so were you generally pleased with your experience with buydig? i've noticed they have some very good prices, but have been weary about using them due to some bad reviews from customers.

I think the display has a better scaler than the one used in the STB's. Setting the STB to 1080i (unless you are lucky enough to have one with a pass-through setting) means the display handles most of the scaling. Only three channels broadcast in 720p (FOX, ABC, and ESPN). I would rather the display scale the seven other channels and deal with three that undergo two conversions than have the STB scale the seven channels and the display not do any scaling.

Originally posted by aircasper
so were you generally pleased with your experience with buydig? i've noticed they have some very good prices, but have been weary about using them due to some bad reviews from customers.

Yes, I was pleased. Shipping took about a week, but for a large item I expected at least a week. The box did not appear overly damaged in any way. My overall experience with them was pleasant and for the price I paid for everything, I don't know if I could have done better...

Originally posted by kdog044
I think the display has a better scaler than the one used in the STB's. Setting the STB to 1080i (unless you are lucky enough to have one with a pass-through setting) means the display handles most of the scaling. Only three channels broadcast in 720p (FOX, ABC, and ESPN). I would rather the display scale the seven other channels and deal with three that undergo two conversions than have the STB scale the seven channels and the display not do any scaling.

I have the passthrough option, but i hate it because it has a long lag since it has to reconvert each channel, so i just set it to fixed at either 1080i or 720p. Also, my PBS-HD channel is 720p so add that to the list ...

Originally posted by fudgebrown
I have the passthrough option, but i hate it because it has a long lag since it has to reconvert each channel, so i just set it to fixed at either 1080i or 720p. Also, my PBS-HD channel is 720p so add that to the list ... Are you sure about that? See below.

PBS yesterday made a bit of television history when it launched the PBS HD Channel, which made PBS the first broadcaster to offer a fully packaged channel with HD and wide-screen content 24 hours a day, seven days per week.

The PBS HD Channel is being offered to the public by PBS stations that have made the conversion to digital television and through various local digital cable providers that re-transmit the signal of their local public broadcasters.

As of its launch, 64 local PBS stations had elected to broadcast the PBS HD Channel, according to PBS director of education and online communications Kevin Dando. “This is definitely the most successful launch we’ve had,” he said comparing the PBS HD Channel launch with that of the PBS Kids and PBS YOU channels. “More stations are signing up for the PBS HD Channel more quickly,” he added.

"The launch of the PBS HD Channel is a significant milestone in PBS' commitment to the digital transition," said Pat Mitchell, PBS president and CEO. "Local PBS digital stations already offer a range of digital services, including unique, groundbreaking multicasting content. The PBS HD Channel will be a key component of PBS' growing digital portfolio."

The PBS HD Channel features a mix of new and library HD and wide-screen programs. The channel’s programming will simulcast with the analog national PBS premiere broadcast, and will be repeated on the PBS HD Channel during the week following its premiere.

Currently, 236 local PBS stations are on the air with digital signals, reaching more than 85 percent of U.S. TV households. PBS will transmit the PBS HD Channel via satellite to local PBS stations as a 1080i HD signal.

Originally posted by kdog044
Are you sure about that? See below.
PBS will transmit the PBS HD Channel via satellite to local PBS stations as a 1080i HD signal.

Well i have Time Warner Cable - I wonder if they broadcast 1080i for Satellite and 720p for cable? But i do know for a fact.. my PBS HD comes in at 720p, it tells me everytime i go to that channel when set to passthrough -

Hello everyone-

I am a new user but have reading a lot lately. At first I was going to get a Samsung HLP6163W. Then I saw the Toshiba 62HMX84. I like the picture a lot and the swivel stand I can get with it. It also has the newer TI chip that the Samsumg HLP5685W (was my third option) has. My question is for the users out there. What do you recommend I get, the 62HMX84 or 94?

I'm getting a cable installed tomorrow at my new house so I'm not sure I would need the cable card. If I did get the cable card, does anyone know if TimeWarner cable offers it and it works?

I might make use of the Built in Off air tuner to get some channels in my area that don't come with the basic HDTV package. I am in Southern California and would like to pick up KCAL in HDTV which TimeWarner cable does not offer.

I'm not quite sure what the firewire ports are used for. Are they of any good practical use?

The CF reader might be used since I do take a lot of digital pictures. So, that might be fun to use.

I can get these two TVs for the same price from different places. I can get the HMX84 from a local store called Howards or online at Crutchfield for 3199. I can get the HMX94 from Abe's of Maine for the same price, 3199. Anyone heard of Abe's of Maine before? Are they a reputable store? If not, then the price of the HMX94 is about 300-600 more somewhere else, which will definitely alter my decision a little.

I'm not quite sure if I should just get the HMX94 since it has more features, or just not bother. Any ideas? I'm sure the PQ is the same on both TVs correct? I'd appreciate any feedback.

Thank you.

If you can get the 94 for the same price then go for it. Time Warner does offer cable cards and they seem to have more success in getting them to work with Toshiba than Comcast does. The integrated tuner is nice for not only QAM but ATSC (OTA). I've used the memory card reader a few times to view my digital pictures. The other bonus of the sets that have this feature is it provides a way for Toshiba to allow firmware upgrades to the TV. They send them out via SD card. I've already had mine updated to try and resolve my cable card issues (with no success unfortunately). As far as the firewire ports go, the main purpose is for use with their Symbio recorder. The concept is nice but the Comcast DVR (Motorola DCT6412) is a dual tuner and it is only $9.95 a month to rent. It would be about 3 or 4 years before the purchase of a single tuner Symbio would be financially beneficial.

The bottom line is the integrated set with cable card gives you the option to rent a STB or not. You may end up getting one anyway but if you go with the 84 then you don't even have the choice. The same holds true for OTA. You will end up spending $200-$400 for a OTA receiver so the extra cost for the 94 ends up being a wash.

Originally posted by asouclks
Hello everyone-

I am a new user but have reading a lot lately. At first I was going to get a Samsung HLP6163W. Then I saw the Toshiba 62HMX84. I like the picture a lot and the swivel stand I can get with it. It also has the newer TI chip that the Samsumg HLP5685W (was my third option) has. My question is for the users out there. What do you recommend I get, the 62HMX84 or 94?

I'm getting a cable installed tomorrow at my new house so I'm not sure I would need the cable card. If I did get the cable card, does anyone know if TimeWarner cable offers it and it works?

I might make use of the Built in Off air tuner to get some channels in my area that don't come with the basic HDTV package. I am in Southern California and would like to pick up KCAL in HDTV which TimeWarner cable does not offer.

I'm not quite sure what the firewire ports are used for. Are they of any good practical use?

The CF reader might be used since I do take a lot of digital pictures. So, that might be fun to use.

I can get these two TVs for the same price from different places. I can get the HMX84 from a local store called Howards or online at Crutchfield for 3199. I can get the HMX94 from Abe's of Maine for the same price, 3199. Anyone heard of Abe's of Maine before? Are they a reputable store? If not, then the price of the HMX94 is about 300-600 more somewhere else, which will definitely alter my decision a little.

I'm not quite sure if I should just get the HMX94 since it has more features, or just not bother. Any ideas? I'm sure the PQ is the same on both TVs correct? I'd appreciate any feedback.

Thank you.

asouclks,

Abe's Of Maine is in fact in BROOKLYN NY. I ordered a coupla items from them, no bad things to say, and they have been around for a long time. So I would say they are trustworthy.

If you understand the differences between the 84 and 94, and care about having those extras, then fine, go with the 94. However if not, or if you are on the edge, stick to the 84, because the S&H wont be peanuts, and you also might have to pay tax anyway depending on where you live.

Either way, you are gonna get one sweet TV. It rocks.

so which remote can enter ADDR mode? All-in-One or ? really hope can change gray bars to black!

Originally posted by kdog044
The designer mode was dropped from the Toshiba line. There still is the archaic ADDR mode but I have not seen anyone with a list of what the functions and codes are for this mode. My suggestion is to get a different set if this is brand new or at least have Toshiba send out a technician to take care of your problem. You don't want to mess around in the ADDR mode unless you know what you are doing.:eek:

Just an update to a previous post I made a few weeks back.....

My 52HM84 had been ghosting virtually any edge in a picture, regardless of the sharpness level or video input selected. It was particularly pronounced around text.

About a month ago, a service engineer determined that it required a light engine replacement. The part was ordered and fitted last week. I've spent some time over the weekend putting the set through it's paces and I'm generally much happier with the result. The ghosting has not been eliminated completely but has been significantly reduced, and the HDMI port is now actually usable and gives comparable output to component input. The HDMI port appears to be overly sharp though, and I have set the sharpness to a lower level to tone it down, but it isn't as dark or grainy as it was. One strange thing that I noticed which I hadn't before, is that DVD generally looks better when input as 480i rather than 480p (using component input), which I don't understand. Also, input from the STB looks better when left at 1080i, so I'm assuming that the TV has a better downscaler than the STB (not surprising). I haven't yet had the chance to watch any 720p programming, but when I do I'll try comparing setting the STB to 720p vs 1080i.

While I said I was generally happy with the results, one thing that bugs me that wasn't so annoying before the repair was the geometry of the picture. Many people describe bowing on DLP sets, and I've seen this on many display sets in stores. On the repaired set, 4:3 material the image is mostly correct for the top part of the image, yet the bottom half gently bends outwards (by about 1.5"). Before the replacement, the top and bottom bowed equally, and I had gotten into the habit of using TheaterWide1 mode. Using the grid images in Avia, the grid seems like it is rotated ever so slightly - the corner sections aren't aligned with the corners of the screen although when standing back the grid looks OK. I can't think of any other way of describing it, but it doesn't look quite right. Since my major gripe with the set has been fixed, I'll probably just live with it and continue to stretch 4:3 material, although you can still see the bowing in the on-screen display for the TV and STB.

The bowing on 4:3 material is common with all DLP sets...

Originally posted by ndahbar
If anyone has a Dish HD receiver (I think it's the 902 model) with a DLP set, test it out and let us know.

I have a Dish 942, and use the HDMI (DVI) input between it and my 62HMX94.

I found a scene in an HD program about underwater cave diving where they focused in on a warning sign. I used the pause and single frame controls of the 942 to get to the last frame of the zoom-in on this sign. Then I experimented with changing the output mode of the 942.

Although I could not see much (any?) difference in picture quality, there was one very noticeable difference. The right edge of the sign was clear of the right edge of the display when in 720p mode, but it was over-scanned off the screen when in 1080i mode.

I don't know whether this is the TV or the DVR that is causing this effect, but in 1080i there is less total picture content visible with my setup (and everything looks larger).

I prefer the 720p mode since it shows more of the programming content in my case.

I use all component inputs via an active component switch for 4 sources that works off the remote signal (of your choice) with my yamaha audio receiver/amp. Gives me two component outs so I can feed the TV or my overhead InfocusX1. I found very few boxes that have HDMI but most all have Y Pb Pr so I ignore the HDMI as it is not needed as an "Extra" input source and most people have found the component to be better signals anyway.

Hi,

I am planning on getting an Ascend CMT-340 Center speaker and wonder how to mount that on top of my 62hmx84. Anyone has one and done this somehow? I have the Oppli Stand and don't really want to put it below the TV even if it would fit (removing my equipment).

Starc

Is anybody try the "THX Optimizer setting" to adjust Contrast and Brightness?

There are two green light on my 52HM84.

Is that abnormal? Should I call the dealer to exchange another 52HM84 or 62HM84 for me?

PS. "THX Optimizer" is included in the following DVDs :

. Star Wars: Episode 2
. Pirates of the Caribbean: The Curse of the Black Pearl
. Pearl Harbor

http://myhome.apbb.com.tw/thomas7tu/DSCN0980.JPG

Originally posted by thomas7tu
Is anybody try the "THX Optimizer setting" to adjust Contrast and Brightness?

There are two green light on my 52HM84.

Is that abnormal? Should I call the dealer to exchange another 52HM84 or 62HM84 for me? I don't have the green lights but it looks alsmost like a reflection from something in fron of your set. If not, then you should have it checked out. I would recommend you get Avia or DVE to calibrate your set as the THX Optimizer can vary depending on the transfer to the DVD and might not give you accurate calibration.

I can't get a good picture with the lighting and my camera but here is what I have.

Originally posted by kdog044
I don't have the green lights but it looks alsmost like a reflection from something in fron of your set.

The green light is from this TV inside, because I turn off all the light in my living room.

Originally posted by kdog044
I can't get a good picture with the lighting and my camera but here is what I have.

Thank you.

There is not any green light on your TV. Is it 52HM84 or 62HM84?

Originally posted by thomas7tu
Thank you.

There is not any green light on your TV. Is it 52HM84 or 62HM84? It's the 62HMX94 and I am using the HDMI connection from a Sony DVP-NS975V.

Originally posted by kdog044
It's the 62HMX94 and I am using the HDMI connection from a Sony DVP-NS975V.

Thanks a lot.¡@:)

I'm afraid these green lights only happen on all 52" series.

My living room is small, so the distance from TV to sofa is just 270cm. Is 62HM84 suitable for me?

Originally posted by thomas7tu
Thanks a lot.¡@:)

I'm afraid these green lights only happen on all 52" series.

My living room is small, so the distance from TV to sofa is just 270cm. Is 62HM84 suitable for me? If that is around 8.5 feet it's fine for HD and DVD viewing. I have 8' and 13' viewing areas in my family room and SD viewing is watchable from the closer distance but you might prefer watching these types of programs from a little further back. It's really a personal preference.

Hi KDOG044,

How do you mount your Centre Speaker on top of the TV ? I have a 52HMX84 and it seem like there is not much room on top of the TV for
anything to be mounted on.
Do you use some kind of a bracket or stand .........?
Also How the Sony DVD player of your ? Does it play all kind of format including copy DISC. I am thinking of getting the same model as your.
Is this Sony model also play SACD right ?

And since you have finally got the toy that you have been longing for, do you think of getting it ISF calibrated ?

Any answer or opinion of your would be appreciated.

Cheer

Originally posted by foreverblueleafs
Hi KDOG044,

How do you mount your Centre Speaker on top of the TV ? I have a 52HMX84 and it seem like there is not much room on top of the TV for
anything to be mounted on.
Do you use some kind of a bracket or stand .........?
Also How the Sony DVD player of your ? Does it play all kind of format including copy DISC. I am thinking of getting the same model as your.
Is this Sony model also play SACD right ?

And since you have finally got the toy that you have been longing for, do you think of getting it ISF calibrated ?

Any answer or opinion of your would be appreciated.

Cheer My current center channel is very small and lightweight (3 lbs and 4.5" wide) so it sets on top of my set. I do plan on upgrading it to a better one and I will need to get a shelf or possibly another solution I've seen which is to purchase a TV bracket for 13" TV's with a swivel to mount on the wall behind it. I wouldn't want to put a heavier speaker on the TV itself. The DVD player I have does in fact play SACD's but I don't currently own any. There was problems with this player in early production with "tray lock" but mine has worked flawlessly since I puchased it and I am more than happy with the PQ. You can read about it on the DVD Player forum. As far as calibration goes I used Avia and just purchased DVE (Digital Video Essentials) to see if I can calibrate it a little better. The Avia disk doesn't have BTB tests. I doubt that I would go the ISF calibration route as I am pretty pleased with the PQ as it stands now but perhaps I may change my mind in the future. I do have two issues right now with getting a cable card to work with Comcast and problems with losing TVGOS listings but I also have the DCT6412 dual tuner so these are minor issues. I have been in contact with TVGOS and hope to have that problem resolved in the next few weeks.

Whats up all. I'm new to the forum. I just got a 52hmx84 last week and am having issues with the quality of my DVD images. I got the Toshiba 5980 dvd player because of the upconversion and HDMI inputs, but it doesn't look very good. I switched between HDMI and component cables, and I think component looks better. Neither one looks that great though. So my question is, do you think the TV isn't broken in enough, or should I get it calibrated? I read on here that this TV may not be the best for DVD playback, but it still looks too grainy to be 'Normal'. Also, Playstation 2 doesn't look that great either. Any thoughts
Thanks...

Originally posted by Scurbs16
Whats up all. I'm new to the forum. I just got a 52hmx84 last week and am having issues with the quality of my DVD images. I got the Toshiba 5980 dvd player because of the upconversion and HDMI inputs, but it doesn't look very good. I switched between HDMI and component cables, and I think component looks better. Neither one looks that great though. So my question is, do you think the TV isn't broken in enough, or should I get it calibrated? I read on here that this TV may not be the best for DVD playback, but it still looks too grainy to be 'Normal'. Also, Playstation 2 doesn't look that great either. Any thoughts
Thanks...

I don't know anything about this set yet since mine isn't going to arrive until Friday, but you may want to take your DVD player to your local store and plug it into theirs. If it looks different, send it back.

Cheers

Originally posted by Scurbs16
I read on here that this TV may not be the best for DVD playback, but it still looks too grainy to be 'Normal'. Also, Playstation 2 doesn't look that great either. Any thoughts
Thanks... I don't know where you read that but I am more than pleased with my 62HMX94 and the Sony DVP-NS975V using HDMI>HDMI connections. My guess is it's the player unless there is something wrong with your set as it is NOT normal.

Originally posted by Scurbs16
I got the Toshiba 5980 dvd player because of the upconversion and HDMI inputs, but it doesn't look very good.

Do you mean the 5970? That is the model I have, and it upconverts to 720p and 1080i. This picture is awesome. What DVD are you playing? Also make sure you switch the setting to 16:9 for your widescreen movies... otherwise it looks overly crunched. Also, while playing a DVD, hit the "HDMI" button to switch between 720p and 1080i. Also tweak your settings on your TV, like contrast etc. Start with the "Movie" mode, and tweak it from there, try switching the temperature setting to Medium, and tweaking the other settings. I have tweaked my set pretty well and am happy with the settings... i will post my settings if you would like..

The Toshiba SD5980 is currently available at BB. It is the replacement for the SD5970. I understand it is actually made by another company, Orion Electric Co.

With my 62HM94, it is a close call between DVD and HD. I'm using component inputs for both. Now I am not saying HD is not better, just that for a given movie unless you jump between the DVD and the HD version (As recorded form my HDD200 C band 4dtv) you might be very hesitant to put money on which you were seeing walking in the room. There is slightly more "crispness" and detail on HD but the DVD (as well as digital off the air networks) are very good.

Thanks for the info. I'm going to experiment with a bunch of DVD players & inputs and see what the deal is, because mine dosen't look like what you guys are seeing.

Alright, problem solved. It was either the HDMI cable that came with the sd-5980, or the inputs on my 5 day old TV. As soon as I changed to component everything looked great! Can't wait to get it calibrated.

http://attach.mobile01.com/attach/mobile01-35f13c83b950e95661eec12a17dfac07.jpg

The pic above shows a bowing edge at 4 : 3 mode. ( Samsung ST-50L2HX DLP¡^

Seems that Bowing is not avoidable on DLP RPTV. Does anybody's 52HM84 or 62HM84 get a better straight edge at 4 : 3 mode? Could you post a pic at 4 : 3 mode? Let me see how straight yours is.

Thank you.

Originally posted by thomas7tu
Is anybody try the "THX Optimizer setting" to adjust Contrast and Brightness?

There are two green light on my 52HM84.

Is that abnormal? Should I call the dealer to exchange another 52HM84 or 62HM84 for me?

PS. "THX Optimizer" is included in the following DVDs :

. Star Wars: Episode 2
. Pirates of the Caribbean: The Curse of the Black Pearl
. Pearl Harbor

http://myhome.apbb.com.tw/thomas7tu/DSCN0980.JPG

I have seen this to some degree on my tv (52HMX94) and other rear projection TVs. I think it is either a reflection inside the cabinet or inside the optics of the TV. It is only noticeable on things like this where you have a very bright spot on a mostly dark image then you can see the reflection of the bright spot. It seems to be unavoidable on rear projection TVs. My old Pioneer CRT RPTV was A LOT worse than this and more noticeable.

Jeff

Originally posted by foreverblueleafs
Hi KDOG044,

How do you mount your Centre Speaker on top of the TV ? I have a 52HMX84 and it seem like there is not much room on top of the TV for
anything to be mounted on.
Do you use some kind of a bracket or stand .........?

Any answer or opinion of your would be appreciated.

Cheer

I built a stand to attach to the back of the TV and stand to support a shelf for the center speaker. See attached pic.

Jeff

whjeffs,

You actually drilled screws into the back of your TV??? You're a braver man than me...

Originally posted by jemaerca
whjeffs,

You actually drilled screws into the back of your TV??? You're a braver man than me... By looking at the picture I believe he is using the existing cabinet screws and one screwed into the shelf of the TV stand.

Originally posted by thomas7tu
Seems that Bowing is not avoidable on DLP RPTV. Does anybody's 52HM84 or 62HM84 get a better straight edge at 4 : 3 mode? Could you post a pic at 4 : 3 mode? Let me see how straight yours is.

Thank you. I don't notice any bowing with my 62HMX94. See attached 4:3 image.

didn't get it yet but I ordered a Omnimount CCH1P shelf. Once I got it I will post pictures assuming it will work out :-)
There are some pictures in a different thread (not our TV) found here. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?threadid=514530&goto=nextnewest) (Post12) After seeing these I was wondering if I should have went with the CCH1B (Black) instead of the platinum color of the CCH1P to match my hmx and black speaker better.

Originally posted by whjeffs
I built a stand to attach to the back of the TV and stand to support a shelf for the center speaker. See attached pic.

Jeff

Starc,

Good luck with that mount. I thought I remember reading from someone with the Toshiba that said it didn't work because of the severe slope in the back of our set. If anyone is interedted in the wall mount option check out the link Duaner has in his post in the following thread.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=512060&perpage=20&pagenumber=2

Also, Iceblade and Christoofar in a further post in the thread purchased one and posted pics as well.

I bought one of those type of shelves for my center channel and it didnt work. I decided to go ahead and leave my CC right in front of the TV on my tv stand and it works nicely.

If I was going to mount the CC, I would have bought a tv wall mount...one for like a 19" tv and that would have worked great.

thanks for the link. For the price I paid it is worth a try, even if I can't get the mount to work, and I like the option of being able to move the TV to a different location which I would loose if I start with a wallmount. Once I finalized the locations etc. I have planned to go with a wallmount option. Here are some more pictures of another solution (using the same speaker I got) Wall mounted center speaker. (http://forum.ascendacoustics.com/showpost.php?p=8337&postcount=11)

Originally posted by kdog044
Starc,

Good luck with that mount. I thought I remember reading from someone with the Toshiba that said it didn't work because of the severe slope in the back of our set. If anyone is interedted in the wall mount option check out the link Duaner has in his post in the following thread.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=512060&perpage=20&pagenumber=2

Also, Iceblade and Christoofar in a further post in the thread purchased one and posted pics as well.

how about just get a Mirage OmniSat? unlike Bose AMxx, OmniSat doesn't need special bracket. you can just mount it on wall or ceiling directly. that's how I do.
Mirage in my HT (http://photo.pchome.com.tw/photos1.html?nickname=lienly&s=s04&books_id=5)

www.miragespeakers.com

yours looks quite straight! my 62HM84 looks bit bowing. same as other 46/52/62 I have seen in TPE. I know I can enter service mode to adjust, but don't want to take such risk to gamble on this pricey gear, just to get lines straighted. not worth it, IMO. have told this bowing is quite common in RP, quoted from some netters here, to thomas7tu who lives in TPE too. it's me introduce him to get this best RP in TW. but seems he is much pickier than me.

Originally posted by kdog044
I don't notice any bowing with my 62HMX94. See attached 4:3 image.

thomas7tu has showed me another photo with living room light on which has an extra white spot, besides these 2 green spots.
have suggested he to test other discs to see if such green spots still exist? but no response to know what has he found out?

even uses anti glare screen, it's still not 100% reflection free!

I have never seen such green spot on last Pio 50 in past 15 yrs!

Originally posted by whjeffs
I have seen this to some degree on my tv (52HMX94) and other rear projection TVs. I think it is either a reflection inside the cabinet or inside the optics of the TV. It is only noticeable on things like this where you have a very bright spot on a mostly dark image then you can see the reflection of the bright spot. It seems to be unavoidable on rear projection TVs. My old Pioneer CRT RPTV was A LOT worse than this and more noticeable.

Jeff

Just received my second 52HM94 set. First set had an odd hourglass shape on 4:3 setting. Most of the curve of the hourglass was at the bottom of the image. Anyway, the new set is better in this aspect, but the picture quality is much worse. See attached image:


Image 1 (http://www.mracacia.com/P4140356.JPG)

Any ideas on what's causing this affect?

Mark

Originally posted by Mracacia
Any ideas on what's causing this affect?

Mark Mark, do you have this problem with the picture outside of these menus? I have a similar quality but it just seems to be the menus. It's almost like the font or image is not made for the resolution of the sets and mine seems to be limited to the menu text as I don't have any problems with PQ outside of the menus.

I am looking to buy a 62HM94 in the near future and have a question for members who have them. Does it have two IEEE 1394 (firewire) ports? The data out there on this set is confusing at best. Is anyone using these ports successfully, and if so, with what equipment? (maybe DVR, etc.)

Originally posted by agent99
I am looking to buy a 62HM94 in the near future and have a question for members who have them. Does it have two IEEE 1394 (firewire) ports? The data out there on this set is confusing at best. Is anyone using these ports successfully, and if so, with what equipment? (maybe DVR, etc.) Agent99, All of the 94 series (i.e. HM and HMX) include the firewire as they are the ones compatible with the Symbio recorder. As far as I have heard this is the only device that is using these ports as of right now but I don't see why any other recorder like the Symbio wouldn't work. According to the manual any IEEE-1394 device like a D-VHS or AVHD recorder should be compatible.

Here are the supported signals:

Supported signals
The IEEE-1394 ports support the signals listed below only. Although incompatible video, audio, and digital control signals cannot be decoded by the TV, these signals may be passed through the IEEE-1394 cable to other compatible devices. Incompatible devices may not appear in the TheaterNet™ menu.
• MPEG-2 digital video signals
Other digital video signals—such as DV video—are incompatible and must be decoded by the source device and sent to the TV as analog video (composite or S-video).

• Dolby Digital and MPEG digital audio signals
Other digital audio signals (such as DPM, MP3, and DTS) are incompatible and cannot be decoded by the TV.

• EIA-775 and AV/C digital control
Your TV can serve as the control center for many devices that are compatible with EIA-775 or AV/C IEEE-1394 control standards (described below).
The TV cannot control IEEE-1394 devices that use any other control standards.
– EIA-775 digital control allows tuning devices (such as Cable boxes) to send simple graphics; however, this standard does not allow the TV to control the Cable box through IEEE-1394.
– AV/C (audio/video control) provides basic control (such as power, play, stop rewind, fast-forward, pause, and record), as applicable to the specific device.

OK, I've seen a lot of posts that reference "ISF Calibration". What the heck is it?:confused:

Sorry, I didn't elaborate. My color is great, but I can't seem to get the contrast right. I can't pull the detail out of dark items on a bright, or even semi- bright, background.

Any ideas?

Thanks kdog044.

My 62HM94 operates my Mitsubishi DVR 2000 ok as well as the Symbio ricorder. I would not recommend the Symbio though unless you just want "tivo" capabilities. You cannot go to any external source while the symbio is recording. With an external hard drive recorder like the LG-LST3410A, you are already external and can go to any other source you want to watch on the HM while the 3410A is recording. Costs more but the capabilities are worth every penny. It also likes the Mits and will happily transfer to or from the Mits. The symbio depends on the HM TV guide to a great extent and we all know how well that works.

ISF Calibrations are done by hired technitians. They can be quite costly, $300-$500, but they are worth the added expenditure.

I have a 52HMX94 set. I've attached an example of Banding and Pixelation that I'm getting.

I get it using HDMI input from Toshiba SD5980 upconverting to 720p and 1080i. I also get it using componet inputs for the dvd player. I also get this viewing HD Comcast broadcast via motorola decoder box input into HDMI. This rules out the inputs, and signal sources; leaves the tv as most likely suspect.

It only significantly occurs on animation. The movie example attached is Disney's Brother Bear. I've seen it (although not as bad) on Nemo, and Sinbad (pretty bad on Sinbad also). All are widescreen versions. Mostly noticable in areas that are supposed to be solid colors.

Is anyone else experiencing this? I'm on version 1.4.1 Oct 19, 2004 firmware. I'm hoping a firmware update would repair this.

Another thought would be to remove edge enhancement, but I don't know where to do this.

These pics are representative of the actual image displayed.

Second image example

I'm getting severe banding, too. But I'm seeing it in movies, like Blade Trinity.

my 62HM84 has no such banding, probably I don't watch animation.
notice your photo 1, the behind mtn carries green tone, same as mine.
its FW was Jul/16/'04.

who knows how to disable or reduce 'edge enhancement'? now get used to it after enjoy its stunning PQ for weeks! :D I also check other TVs, seems such ghosting is unavoidable?:confused:

http://photo.pchome.com.tw/photos1.html?nickname=lienly&s=s04&books_id=17&page=1

http://photo.pchome.com.tw/books.html?nickname=louissvs&s=s07

Originally posted by comhertz
I have a 52HMX94 set.

It only significantly occurs on animation. The movie example attached is Disney's Brother Bear. I've seen it (although not as bad) on Nemo, and Sinbad (pretty bad on Sinbad also). All are widescreen versions. Mostly noticable in areas that are supposed to be solid colors.

Is anyone else experiencing this? I'm on version 1.4.1 Oct 19, 2004 firmware. I'm hoping a firmware update would repair this.

Another thought would be to remove edge enhancement, but I don't know where to do this.

Originally posted by comhertz
IIs anyone else experiencing this? I'm on version 1.4.1 Oct 19, 2004 firmware. I'm hoping a firmware update would repair this. There are at least two versions of newer sofware but I don't know what the 1.43 corrected. Perhaps you can find out from Toshiba. Mine was manufactured in December and I had 1.43. They sent me 1.45 which was solely to address issues with cable cards and primarily problems with Comcast. I've never noticed the problem you are describing and it looks a lot like macroblocking which can be seen in many player that use the Faroudja 2310 deinterlacer but you indicated you see it on component as well so that shouldn't be the case. If you can post the chapter and time for these pictures I might be able to rent the DVD next weekend and see if I get anything like it.

As far as Edge Enhancement goes, others have posted that if you start your input calibrations in Movie Mode it would disable anything like this. I know in the older Toshiba CRT's that is how you would disable SVM. Can you post your current picture settings including lamp mode and color temperature?

There have been a few posts here talking about firmware upgrade. I have a 52HM84, and typically like to have my stuff at the latest level. Is such a firmware upgrade available for the 84 series, and if so, how does one get it and how is it applied ?


Paul.

Originally posted by comhertz
I have a 52HMX94 set. I've attached an example of Banding and Pixelation that I'm getting.
...
It only significantly occurs on animation. The movie example attached is Disney's Brother Bear. I've seen it (although not as bad) on Nemo, and Sinbad (pretty bad on Sinbad also). All are widescreen versions. Mostly noticable in areas that are supposed to be solid colors.
...


I'm not sure which version of Brother Bear you have, but this has been discussed on other forums, including the Panasonic S97 forum:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=5150155#post5150155

It seems that the problem may be the DVD transfer, not the player or the TV.

Originally posted by pbir
There have been a few posts here talking about firmware upgrade. I have a 52HM84, and typically like to have my stuff at the latest level. Is such a firmware upgrade available for the 84 series, and if so, how does one get it and how is it applied ?


Paul. Paul, I don't know how you would be able to update your set if there is firmware. With the integrated sets they have the SD reader and that is how they sent out my upgrade. You might want to check with Toshiba. I know the 1.45 wouldn't apply to your set as it was for issues with cable cards.

since HDMI gears talk to each other, is it possible to upgrade HM84 FW via HDMI player?

Originally posted by kdog044
Paul, I don't know how you would be able to update your set if there is firmware. With the integrated sets they have the SD reader and that is how they sent out my upgrade. You might want to check with Toshiba. I know the 1.45 wouldn't apply to your set as it was for issues with cable cards.

Originally posted by djustl
I'm not sure which version of Brother Bear you have, but this has been discussed on other forums, including the Panasonic S97 forum:


It seems that the problem may be the DVD transfer, not the player or the TV.

Macroblocking Bears! That was good!

Sinbad had some pretty bad banding and macroblocking also. This was from HBO HD using a motorola 6200(?) Comcast box.

The common element is that these are Disney Movies. Maybe they need to upgrade their equipment:D

Nemo's banding was minimal. Maybe it has to do with how DLP functions. Ice Age looks great.

Originally posted by kdog044
...If you can post the chapter and time for these pictures I might be able to rent the DVD next weekend and see if I get anything like it.

Can you post your current picture settings including lamp mode and color temperature?

Will do later tonight.

As far as Edge Enhancement goes, others have posted that if you start your input calibrations in Movie Mode it would disable anything like this. I know in the older Toshiba CRT's that is how you would disable SVM. Can you post your current picture settings including lamp mode and color temperature?

All that I need to do is switch to movie mode before making adjustments to the picture?

Are there any recommended service menu adjustments?

Originally posted by comhertz



All that I need to do is switch to movie mode before making adjustments to the picture? That's what people are reporting but I have not heard that this display even uses Edge Enhancement so I can't say if it is disabled by starting in Movie Mode To be on the sfe side that is what I do when starting to calibrate.

Originally posted by comhertz
Are there any recommended service menu adjustments? There is nothing in the service menu that I would feel comfortable adjusting and you can do more harm than good. Here are the options in the service menu. All the values are in hex and I wouldn't even know what values are acceptable. If you have issues with the display you should contact Toshiba and have a qualified technician check it out.

RCUT R CUT OFF
GCUT G CUTOFF
BCUT B CUT OFF
GDRV G DRIVE
BDRV B DRIVE
BRTC BRIGHT CENTER
SCNT SUB CONTRAST FOR TV
COLC COLOR CENTER
UVTT BASE BAND TINT
CNTX SUB CONTRAST MAX
HPOS H-POSITION (PAL/DFS)
HPOS(PJ ONLY) 56P CONVERGENCE OSD PATTERN HPOS
VPOS(PJ ONLY) 56P CONVERGENCE OSD PATTERN VPOS
CWDH COLOR WHEEL DELAY (HIGH)
CWDL COLOR WHEEL DELAY (LOW)
DMDB DMD BIAS
OPT1 TV SET OPTION
OPT2 TV SET OPTION
TVOP TV OPTION
PLLW0 PLL WAIT TIME
PLLW1 PLL WAIT TIME
PLLW2 PLL WAIT TIME
PLLW3 PLL WAIT TIME
PLLW4 PLL WAIT TIME
PLLW5 PLL WAIT TIME
V01 VOLUME (DATA)
V25 VOLUME (DATA)
V50 VOLUME (DATA)
V75 VOLUME (DATA)
V100 VOLUME (DATA)
MODH MODUS DATA HIGH
MODL MODUS DATA LOW
PRES FMAM PRESCALE
SCTH VOLUME SCART OPTION HIGH
SCTL VOLUME SCART OPTION LOW

Originally posted by Traxan
I'm getting severe banding, too. But I'm seeing it in movies, like Blade Trinity.

Blade Trinity does not come out until the 26th. If you already have a copy it probably is not the real dvd release. In a case like this........there is no telling what quality the dvd is or how it was compressed. If this is so you could get all kinds of banding or other problems.

It's legitimate, trust me.

Banding is seen around lights. I've seen it in 2 or 3 copies. As a light source would grow and diminish in intensity and brightness, the bands were really obvious. Anything with a fade in-fade out would band, regardless of the source: animation, live action, whatever.

Originally posted by Traxan
It's legitimate, trust me.

Banding is seen around lights. I've seen it in 2 or 3 copies. As a light source would grow and diminish in intensity and brightness, the bands were really obvious. Anything with a fade in-fade out would band, regardless of the source: animation, live action, whatever.


I have the 62HMX94 and I have yet to see this......I believe you when you say you say you have it but I don't seem to have this particular problem. I'm sorry you have to put up with this......I'd be pretty pissed off after spending this much $$$$ for a TV and it is not perfect.

Quickie question. I use a direct connection, from DVD player to TV. Manuals say you should connect the DVD player to your receiver and then out to the TV. Does this make any difference?

Originally posted by Traxan
Quickie question. I use a direct connection, from DVD player to TV. Manuals say you should connect the DVD player to your receiver and then out to the TV. Does this make any difference?
I typically go direct from whatever component to the TV for video. I see two advantages to this. First, the most direct connection will ensure the best possibel PQ. Second, you can setup different settings for each input.

Originally posted by Traxan
Quickie question. I use a direct connection, from DVD player to TV. Manuals say you should connect the DVD player to your receiver and then out to the TV. Does this make any difference?


IMHO it is always best to go direct. If you have a receiver that has HDMI inputs then it would not matter because everything would remain in the digital domain. If you are using component cables it is going through a couple of conversions instead of 1.

Originally posted by bigdaddy10
IMHO it is always best to go direct. If you have a receiver that has HDMI inputs then it would not matter because everything would remain in the digital domain. If you are using component cables it is going through a couple of conversions instead of 1.

But if the receiver does a pass through and the receiver is powered there should be no PQ loss.

Question: Each time you turn on a Toshiba DLP, the bulb life is shortened due to the filament correct? So what I am trying to get at is: if you turn on your DLP... leave it on until you really know its going to be off for a while...

anyone want to share some experience or detailed info on this ??

Originally posted by fudgebrown
But if the receiver does a pass through and the receiver is powered there should be no PQ loss.

Not all pass through is equal.
You'll need bandwidth over 10 MHz to pass on progressive-scan video without noticeable softening of the picture. And for HDTV signals, you'll need bandwidth in the upper 20s or higher to avoid noticeable softening of the picture (with most TVs).

If your receiver fits these requirements you should be OK.

Originally posted by fudgebrown
Question: Each time you turn on a Toshiba DLP, the bulb life is shortened due to the filament correct? So what I am trying to get at is: if you turn on your DLP... leave it on until you really know its going to be off for a while...

anyone want to share some experience or detailed info on this ??

Yeah, I usually leave it on until I'm going out, going to bed or not gonna see it for hours.

Originally posted by bigdaddy10
I have the 62HMX94 and I have yet to see this......I believe you when you say you say you have it but I don't seem to have this particular problem. I'm sorry you have to put up with this......I'd be pretty pissed off after spending this much $$$$ for a TV and it is not perfect.

I don't see it as a problem; I have a friend with a JVC D-ILA and the same exact thing happens. It seems to be an inherent thing of the DLP units, at least at this time.

Any distant or point light source will show the expanding lightwave like in separate bands. Maybe it's a difficulty in showing smooth transitions between high intensity light levels...like saying it can't go 20-19-18-17, maybe it has to jump from 20-17 and hence the band. For low intensity transitions or normal lighting this is not evident.

I think it's something we have to learn to live with, anyway it happens at those type of scenes only.

As for the "perfect" expectations, I've learned that nothing is perfect. Every machine or equipment has something...a limitation, a quirk, something. That's why you have new technologies and new ways to present image and sound coming out from time to time (if the 720p unit was perfect, then why bring up the 1080p units). From an engineers point of view, I'm pretty sure DLP is far from perfected, I'll agree it's great...but perfect...naaah.

I have a 52HM84 and this kind of banding is evident in scenes like when in The Matrix beggining, the policeman is holding the flashlight and the camera backs and pans. Any scene with that type of light source brings that banding up...I just accept it as the way this TV shows it. I suppose they'll fix this in the future if people complain, if not it will stay like that.

GREY BARS to BLACK? Anyone figure it out yet (other than using your STB to do it). It was brought up earlier in this thread, but has since become a dead topic. I know there is the service menu with HEX values that seem to be cryptic ...

Originally posted by fudgebrown
GREY BARS to BLACK? Anyone figure it out yet (other than using your STB to do it). It was brought up earlier in this thread, but has since become a dead topic. I know there is the service menu with HEX values that seem to be cryptic ... If there is a solution nobody has been able to figure out what it is. There is nothing in the service menu to adjust it so the only possibility is in the archaic ADDR mode and I have not found any documentation to indicate if it exists in this mode and if so what the hex value would be.

Originally posted by fudgebrown
GREY BARS to BLACK? Anyone figure it out yet (other than using your STB to do it). It was brought up earlier in this thread, but has since become a dead topic. I know there is the service menu with HEX values that seem to be cryptic ...

TheaterWide 1.

Originally posted by Julio Bro!
TheaterWide 1. Very funny.:D

Originally posted by kdog044
Very funny.:D

actually i do use Theatre Wide 1 a lot. But also at times it looks too distorted for me and prefer 4:3. On my STB i can make them black anyway... so the issue for me is solved... except for when my STB is set to "passthrough" then the bars are grey again and I can't change it...

Originally posted by Julio Bro!
I don't see it as a problem; I have a friend with a JVC D-ILA and the same exact thing happens. It seems to be an inherent thing of the DLP units, at least at this time.

Any distant or point light source will show the expanding lightwave like in separate bands. Maybe it's a difficulty in showing smooth transitions between high intensity light levels...like saying it can't go 20-19-18-17, maybe it has to jump from 20-17 and hence the band. For low intensity transitions or normal lighting this is not evident.

I think it's something we have to learn to live with, anyway it happens at those type of scenes only.

As for the "perfect" expectations, I've learned that nothing is perfect. Every machine or equipment has something...a limitation, a quirk, something. That's why you have new technologies and new ways to present image and sound coming out from time to time (if the 720p unit was perfect, then why bring up the 1080p units). From an engineers point of view, I'm pretty sure DLP is far from perfected, I'll agree it's great...but perfect...naaah.

I have a 52HM84 and this kind of banding is evident in scenes like when in The Matrix beggining, the policeman is holding the flashlight and the camera backs and pans. Any scene with that type of light source brings that banding up...I just accept it as the way this TV shows it. I suppose they'll fix this in the future if people complain, if not it will stay like that.

This (very extensive) article explains in detail the limitations of current display technologies. I believe they cover most of the topics being discussed on this thread.

http://www.extremetech.com/article2/0,1558,1752680,00.asp

Well, my bulb on the Toshiba 52HM84 lasted 5 whole weeks. Up to then had been very satisfied with the set. Except for a slight bowing of the picture edges when using 4:3 mode, I had no other problems.
I wasnt expecting the service tech who arrived the next afternoon to have the bulb in stock. He told me 7-10 days was normal for getting bulbs replaced.
Well, over 3 weeks have passed and they still have not gotten in the bulb. Upon checking with the manufacturer, it was shipped Tuesday. (3 weeks to the day it was ordered).
What is the problem Toshiba? A bad batch of bulbs on this fairly new model? From what the service tech says, most bulbs arrive 3-5 days after the order is made for other manufacturer. Please get your act together.
Just thought I'd warn anyone who was considering the Toshiba. Over 4 weeks without my main set on my brand new TV is ridiculous. Any others out there with similar stories?

Originally posted by tommy1rx
Well, my bulb on the Toshiba 52HM84 lasted 5 whole weeks. Up to then had been very satisfied with the set...

Sorry to hear that Tommy. I have had my 46HM84 for almost two months now and no bulb replacement yet. Did you have it set to Hi-Bright, or Low power? I have kept mine at low power to hopefully have the bulb last a while...

You mentioned your TV is two months old and it sounds like your holding your breath that your buld shouldn't blow. I would hope it wouldn't. Toshiba has them rated to last between 6 and 8 thousand hours.

There hasn't been a lot of activity on this thread recently. Everyone must be busy enjoying the great PQ on these sets.:D

I posted a new topic regarding ghosting and the difference between 84 series and 94 series that should have been added to this thread instead. Some of my findings in searching this site indicated that it was a problem limited to the 84 series, while this thread shows examples of it being a problem with the 94 series as well. Any clarification on manufacture dates or model numbers that this problem is limited to?

Also, the 4:3 hourglass thing seems a bit cheap for a set of this caliber. It was clearly evident on the display model (46hm94) at a local retailer, showing an outward bowing toward the bottom of the image. Is this pretty much luck as far as finding a set that doesn't have this problem?

I'd like to pull the trigger on either a 46hm94 or 52hm94 but would like some assurance that these are somewhat isolated examples of what can go wrong. I don't think the retailer wants to de-box numerous sets for me while I choose the best out-of-the-box image.

Originally posted by toenail
I posted a new topic regarding ghosting and the difference between 84 series and 94 series that should have been added to this thread instead. Some of my findings in searching this site indicated that it was a problem limited to the 84 series, while this thread shows examples of it being a problem with the 94 series as well. Any clarification on manufacture dates or model numbers that this problem is limited to?

I have an HMX94, and it has the "ghosting" to some degree. But it is only noticeable on menus. The real probem with the ghosting on my 94 is that it is actually edge enhancement processing that creates a falloff in the high frequency video response (using test DVDs), but you don't notice it on real video.


Also, the 4:3 hourglass thing seems a bit cheap for a set of this caliber. It was clearly evident on the display model (46hm94) at a local retailer, showing an outward bowing toward the bottom of the image. Is this pretty much luck as far as finding a set that doesn't have this problem?

You won't find one w/o it. This is due to the short projection distance. What you will see is some sets will have symmetrical "pincushion distortion" (evenly bowed around the center) and others will seem to have it more at the top or bottom. This is due to whether or not the optical path is centered through the lenses. This is due to production tolerances. It would take more lenses (which would dim the picture some) to correct the remaining distortion, which would drive up cost.


I'd like to pull the trigger on either a 46hm94 or 52hm94 but would like some assurance that these are somewhat isolated examples of what can go wrong. I don't think the retailer wants to de-box numerous sets for me while I choose the best out-of-the-box image.

You probably need to get over the "I have to have the perfect one" approach, you will be setting yourself up so an unhappy ownership cycle.


Gary

I don't know what to tell you if this bowing thing really bothers you. The picture on my 62hm94 is great, hd or std adigital OTA. There is some bowing on 4 3 images, but I watched "fat people" for years stretching my old Toshiba wide screen and the new set if just amazing for the picture. Even the black sides on digital are a godsend so the little bowing does not bother me at all. Besides, I bought it for 16:9, not 4:3. I rearely use it on OTA analog so I cant tell you id it is worse there than on digital. Great picture on digital, almost as good as witht he HD. IF it didn't show up as 4:3 on the digital non HD, you might mistake it for HD. In addition, in the home versis in the store, the picture is much better without splitting ths signal to a doxzen sets and overlighting. Always have seen that to be the case. Again if the bowing is such that you will always be irritated, maybe look elsewhere. I never even noticed it till I saw reports of it ont he forum.

I'm very happy with my Toshiba buy. The PQ out of the box has been nothing short of amazing. I very rarely watch analog channels so the grey bars and bowing isn't a issue. One thing I did, is put a Amplifier between my analog cable and TV input which cleaned up the signal quite a bit. My only complaint is the amount of inputs, sure could use one more component input. I tried HDMI input for my DVD player with a separate audio out to my reciever and had all sorts of lip sync issues. So DVD player is eating up a component input I had planned for my daughters XBOX. I"m going to have to buy a HIDEF switch any suggestions out their? Enough of going off topic buy the Toshiba you won't be sorry.

Thanks for the responses. I'm coming to grips with the fact that I can't expect perfection for $2.5k. It's a shame that the dealers can't find a way to accurately represent what these sets are capable of. All that I've seen have signal split to the point of looking as poor as rabbit ear analog, however every owner has touted the improved image once home and set up properly. One shop I visited claimed that when they added one more set to the end of the line there was not enough siganl to generate an image for it. There's something to brag about!

I've noticed my current Toshiba 32" CRT has some ghosting on menus only (that's after Avia calibration) that is not evident during actual playback. Not too concerned if the problem is limited to just menus.

If 4:3 bowing is generally accepted then I won't lose sleep over that either.

Any comments on the difference between the .8 larger chip in the 52" vs the 46" normal chip? All things being equal, will it make a differance from 10 feet away? Any more premature bulb failure stories out there?

I too am happy with my Toshiba, but I have noticed a lip sync issue at times with my Toshiba 5970 DVD. It is not happening all the time so I wasn't sure if it was the disc, player, HDMI, or receiver. I am using the HDMI connection with the digital out going to my receiver. The reason I hadn't changed this out was because at times I see some lip sync issues on my local HD stations using a cable card.

Will I see any difference in quality between upconverting on HDMI or component video? And has anyone else seen lip sync issues with the latest firmware update using a cable card?

I orignally used a HDMI connection for my DVD connection and coaxial digital audio out into my reciever. The audio travels alot quicker than the video with all of the processing going on in the TV thus causing a lip sync problem. When I got rid of the HDMI connection the lip sync issue no longer persisted.

the two problems aren't related. The HD lip sync issues have been going on for awhile and it won't be fixed until the broadcasters figure out how to time the Audio and video together. With all the processing of the video the audio moves quicker causing lip sync issues. SBE (society of Broadcast engineers) are aware of the issue and trying to fix it. Remember the early days of color it took time and experimentaion to get it right.

Smeck, thanks for the information, I am new to HDTV and am thankful a forum and knowledgeable people exist to answer questions. Now another question-- I have not calibrated the video on my Toshiba does someone have a recommendation for a calibration disc?

Originally posted by George Goldman
I too am happy with my Toshiba, but I have noticed a lip sync issue at times with my Toshiba 5970 DVD. It is not happening all the time so I wasn't sure if it was the disc, player, HDMI, or receiver. My guess is the lip sync issue is with your player. I have the 62HMX94 and it is connected to the Sony DVP-NS975V through HDMI and don't have the problem. I use coax digital for the audio directly to my Sony receiver.

As to the bowing complaints I really don't notice any and my kids watch a lot of 4:3 programs. If you look back in some of my threads I posted pics of a 4:3 program. Here's an example on FOX.

Originally posted by fudgebrown
actually i do use Theatre Wide 1 a lot. But also at times it looks too distorted for me and prefer 4:3. On my STB i can make them black anyway... so the issue for me is solved... except for when my STB is set to "passthrough" then the bars are grey again and I can't change it...

Yeah, I know panning scenes and some scenes seem distorted, but Toshiba's solution in Theaterwide 1 is a lot better than other 4:3 zooms. If you use it all the time you'll get used to it; you also get to use the whole screen...which costs a lot of money, right?

Besides, more and more of the best shows are changing to the 16:9 ratio, for example Battlestar Galactica and the new Revelations look fantastic in Theaterwide 3.

Originally posted by kdog044
There hasn't been a lot of activity on this thread recently. Everyone must be busy enjoying the great PQ on these sets.:D

Hey kdog...that surely is the case; I bet most are waiting for the next generation upscaling DVDs and high-def players.

In the mean time, for Matrix and Anime fans, let me recommend watching The Animatrix in your Toshibas...all the shorts look great and Flight Of The Osiris looks fantastic; and this is with my measly progressive player.

I think this the logical order of watching the Shorts (including the movies for those who would like to see them again or the first time):

2 - 3 - 7 - 6 - 8 - Matrix movie - 5 - 4 - 1 - Reloaded movie - 9 - Revolutions.

The whole shorts would take you a bit more than an hour, so it's easy going. 2 and 3 are no kid's stuff mind you.

Have fun.

So, I have had my 52HM84 about a month and was completely overjoyed--and then-- when I powered up the unit, the green light is steady and the red blinks and I have no picture. According to the manual, this LED combo means the lamp door is not seated. Naturally, I had never touched the lamp door. However, I dutifully reseated it any number of times now hoping it would help out. No luck.

Has anyone else had an issue with this?

A repair man was out to look at my hm94 to try to change a chip that Toshibs thought was the TV guide problem. Had the wrong chip anyway. When he got the set all back together the same door thing happened as is happening to your set. . With a bit of messing around it cleared up. There is a cable that carries the door signal to the main boards and maybe this is loose or a bad connection. It's a plug in connection on the board. All I can tell you is to mess with it and maybe it will straighten up, otherwise get a toshiba repair service to come in. Personall rather than waiting, I would get an appointment but keep trying while you wait for them to show up.

This may have been posted already but for those of you with the TV guide problem... I found that when it goes out, an easy way to get it back is to power off the set then unplug it when the light is solid green.

Plug it back in (I usually wait 30 seconds but you probably don't have to) then go into TV Guide to pick your channel line up and it should populate again. Of course until the next time it decides to bugger off. :)

I have a 44NHM84 that looks phenomenal on a high-def signal or when playing xbox, but when watching DVDs (I just bought the new Toshiba 5980 upscaler) or even digital cable it looks utterly craptastic...for some reason theres a lot of color banding going on like everything is made out of taffeta...I thought it was just my DVD player as the first time I noticed this was this weekend (after having the set for a few weeks), but I saw it last night on an on-demand movie (Angelina Jolie has a spectacular rack, color banded or not;)...anyone else have any experience with this?


edit:

I just tried out a few more on-demand movies and besides color banding, they were "blocktacular"...the flames around the Charlies Angels titles were freaking blocks and anything that moved quickly looked like it was lego animation...wtf???

Originally posted by Bill Shenefelt
A repair man was out to look at my hm94 to try to change a chip that Toshibs thought was the TV guide problem. Had the wrong chip anyway. When he got the set all back together the same door thing happened as is happening to your set. . With a bit of messing around it cleared up. There is a cable that carries the door signal to the main boards and maybe this is loose or a bad connection. It's a plug in connection on the board. All I can tell you is to mess with it and maybe it will straighten up, otherwise get a toshiba repair service to come in. Personall rather than waiting, I would get an appointment but keep trying while you wait for them to show up.

Hey Bill,

Glad its not just me. I have already arranged a visit from a Toshiba repair tech--ok, they will tell me in 2 to 3 business days when, if ever, someone is coming out--so I was not keen to open up too much lest I void my warranty. If this drags on too long I might. ;-)

Among stuff I could get to, nothing helped. I am keeping my fingers crossed. Thanks!

after sleeping off the hangover, I realized that my video settings were too high (contrast especially)...toning them down cleaned up a lot of the noise/color banding/taffeta look...now...how to defeat the popcorn/lego effect on fast moving images from on-demand movies???

Hi all,

Anyone know where to purchase and some tips on how to use the Alignments CD products available on the market?

Thanks,

Jerry

Anyone familiar with HD3 vs HD2+ in the current 84/94 line-up? Toshiba website states that both series use the HD2+ chip but today a local retailer told me that the rep said it was a typo on their website and that in fact the 84 series use HD3 and the 94 series use HD2+.

Toenail...

I believe he is wrong. All the Toshibas use the HD2+ chip. Unlike Samsung and some others. This is one of the major reasons that the picture is superior on these sets.

Dan

Originally posted by toenail
Anyone familiar with HD3 vs HD2+ in the current 84/94 line-up? Toshiba website states that both series use the HD2+ chip but today a local retailer told me that the rep said it was a typo on their website and that in fact the 84 series use HD3 and the 94 series use HD2+.

Run away from that guy as fast as you can. All of the Toshiiba DLP RPTV's have the HD2+ chip.

5 minutes of research on this forum will give you much more knowledge then the majority of salesmen/women at a big box retailer. Print out all the information you need from the posts in this forum and take the information with you.

I knew more about the toshibas from reading the comments in this forum then every salesman I talked to. I had never seen the toshiba and knew how to operate and tweek the picture better then every person who attempted to show me the set. I even had a salesman call me to ask how to program the local HD stations on the 94.

I thought that was a bit odd. Could have been a cheesy sales ploy to get me into the more expensive 94 series, though that's what I was looking at already. I typically do arm myself with more knowledge than any sales staff regardless of whether it's audio, video, automotive etc. I'm continually amazed at the lack of knowledge or purposeful misinformation that salespeople have. This website (and thread) have been a blessing for learning about the xxhm/hmx series of Toshiba DLPs.

Still curious about the .8 chip in the 52" and 62" vs the smaller (.55 maybe?) chip in the 46". At a given distance of 10' does the larger chip with larger screen image = the smaller chip with the smaller screen image as far as perceived resolution? I'd gladly sacrifice a bit of screen size to gain resolution, or go with the larger screen/chip if that one holds the advantage.

I use 'full' more often if available. TheaterWide 1 is next choice. TheaterWide 2 is the one I don't use b/c it zoom in too much and lost all sides.

key issue is "has anyone really solved the Gray Bars w/o via STB?"

Originally posted by Julio Bro!
TheaterWide 1.

who told you 46 uses smaller DMD while 52/62 use larger one? from my understanding, all Tosh xxHM(X)xx use HD2 PLUS panel to give such attractive pretty PQ!!!:D

Originally posted by toenail

Still curious about the .8 chip in the 52" and 62" vs the smaller (.55 maybe?) chip in the 46".

you got replaced lamp FOC? if not, how much for new one?

Originally posted by tommy1rx
Well, my bulb on the Toshiba 52HM84 lasted 5 whole weeks. Up to then had been very satisfied with the set. Except for a slight bowing of the picture edges when using 4:3 mode, I had no other problems.
I wasnt expecting the service tech who arrived the next afternoon to have the bulb in stock. He told me 7-10 days was normal for getting bulbs replaced.
Well, over 3 weeks have passed and they still have not gotten in the bulb. Upon checking with the manufacturer, it was shipped Tuesday. (3 weeks to the day it was ordered).
What is the problem Toshiba? A bad batch of bulbs on this fairly new model? From what the service tech says, most bulbs arrive 3-5 days after the order is made for other manufacturer. Please get your act together.
Just thought I'd warn anyone who was considering the Toshiba. Over 4 weeks without my main set on my brand new TV is ridiculous. Any others out there with similar stories?

pls explain each in an easier way, too techie to understand.
tks.

don't want to fool around unless know what each option does?

Originally posted by kdog044
There is nothing in the service menu that I would feel comfortable adjusting and you can do more harm than good. Here are the options in the service menu. All the values are in hex and I wouldn't even know what values are acceptable. If you have issues with the display you should contact Toshiba and have a qualified technician check it out.

RCUT R CUT OFF
GCUT G CUTOFF
BCUT B CUT OFF
GDRV G DRIVE
BDRV B DRIVE
BRTC BRIGHT CENTER
SCNT SUB CONTRAST FOR TV
COLC COLOR CENTER
UVTT BASE BAND TINT
CNTX SUB CONTRAST MAX
HPOS H-POSITION (PAL/DFS)
HPOS(PJ ONLY) 56P CONVERGENCE OSD PATTERN HPOS
VPOS(PJ ONLY) 56P CONVERGENCE OSD PATTERN VPOS
CWDH COLOR WHEEL DELAY (HIGH)
CWDL COLOR WHEEL DELAY (LOW)
DMDB DMD BIAS
OPT1 TV SET OPTION
OPT2 TV SET OPTION
TVOP TV OPTION
PLLW0 PLL WAIT TIME
PLLW1 PLL WAIT TIME
PLLW2 PLL WAIT TIME
PLLW3 PLL WAIT TIME
PLLW4 PLL WAIT TIME
PLLW5 PLL WAIT TIME
V01 VOLUME (DATA)
V25 VOLUME (DATA)
V50 VOLUME (DATA)
V75 VOLUME (DATA)
V100 VOLUME (DATA)
MODH MODUS DATA HIGH
MODL MODUS DATA LOW
PRES FMAM PRESCALE
SCTH VOLUME SCART OPTION HIGH
SCTL VOLUME SCART OPTION LOW

you mean even with 'quick restart' on, it still no help to extend lamp lifetime?

Originally posted by fudgebrown
Question: Each time you turn on a Toshiba DLP, the bulb life is shortened due to the filament correct? So what I am trying to get at is: if you turn on your DLP... leave it on until you really know its going to be off for a while...

anyone want to share some experience or detailed info on this ??

Originally posted by lienly
pls explain each in an easier way, too techie to understand.
tks.

don't want to fool around unless know what each option does? Lienly, that's the point. Unless you know what you are doing you DON"T want to fool around in the service menu. Some of the options are self explanatory but some aren't and I'm certainly no TV technician. I think you can safely say that NONE of the service menu options will resolve your quest for eliminating the gray bars. There are adjustments that can be done by QUALIFIED service personnel for those who are having PQ problems and since the set has a year warranty I cannot fathom why ANYONE would want to mess around with their sets on their own.:confused:

Originally posted by toenail
Still curious about the .8 chip in the 52" and 62" vs the smaller (.55 maybe?) chip in the 46".

All Toshiba DLPs use the .8" HD2+ chip (i own the 46HM84 and it looks as good as the 52"). Don't listen to anything Best Buy salespeople say (or Circuit City). Trust in us...

Originally posted by lienly
you mean even with 'quick restart' on, it still no help to extend lamp lifetime?

Well quick restart will extend the life... as well as keeping it on low power (100w). So i am assuming that if you turn it off, make sure you turn it back on within the few minutes it is in quick restart mode (before it turns off for good). It just makes sense to me that you accelerate the death of the bulb by turning on and off a lot (past the quick restart period) due to the filament -- , but that is my understanding ....anyone want to chime in?

Originally posted by lienly
who told you 46 uses smaller DMD while 52/62 use larger one? from my understanding, all Tosh xxHM(X)xx use HD2 PLUS panel to give such attractive pretty PQ!!!:D

Actually I thought I'd gotten this info from the Toshiba website but just went back for a second look and see that they list the "larger .8 chip for increased brightness" on all sizes of this series of DLP. I had thought that the info was previously missing from the 46hm84 detailed specs because that is the set I was originally looking at and I was curious about the larger vs smaller chip PQ difference. Larger refers to larger than what? Chip refers to which chip? It also appears brightness related, not resolution related. Sorry for the misinformation. Too many late nights pouring over HDTV specs make the mind a bit weary.

Sorry for the length of this post, but I want to share as much detail as possible.

I have had a 52HM94 for about 2 months. It has performed flawlessly until the past week or so. I'm using Cablevision with an SA8300HD STB DVR connected thru HDMI, with an optical digital cable connected directly from the STB to my receiver (no sound thru the TV). I use the two component inputs for my SD-5980 DVD player and XBOX.

A week or so ago I was watching a baseball game on Fox Sports HD (fantastic!!), when all of a sudden the entire screen flashed gray for a fraction of a second. The sound remained, and after the momentary gray flash, the screen returned to normal. It did this a few times within a few minutes, and eventually the sound started cutting out as well. I thought it was probably a problem with the STB (since no sound goes thru the TV), and it seemed to be confined to only that one channel. I powered the TV and STB off and back on and it cleared up.

A few days later it happened again. Sometimes the sound would cut out, sometimes it would remain. Sometimes it would be a single gray flash, sometimes it would be a double flash. I tried powering off/on several times but the problem persisted, so I shut it off and went to bed. The next day, no problems.

Then last night when I turned the TV on I noticed that the color would act erratically. The only way I can describe it is that it would alternate between perfect and poor (not awful, just poor). The colors would be "off" enough that it was clearly noticable, then it would snap back to perfect. It was happening repeatedly, several times per minute. The the gray flashing started on all HD channels (didn't try any analog channels), so I figured that it was a problem with the STB. The 8300HD has a TIVO-like user interface with a several-second instant replay. When I saw a gray flash I tried using the instand replay to see if it would flash again in the same section of video, but it never repeated exactly the same each time. I thought that the live feed from the STB must be the problem, so I selected one of the programs I had previously recorded onto the DVR (within the STB), and the problem persisted on the recorded program.

My final experiment was to power down the STB, but leave the TV set on. And after a minute or so - with nothing on the TV but a black screen - the screen flashed gray and then back to black. It did this several times. Now I'm thinking it is a problem with the TV, but why would the sound be affected sometimes and not others? If the TV is going bad but the STB is working fine, then the sound should never be affected (remember, audio goes directly from the STB to my receiver).

I've never noticed any of these problems while using XBOX or the DVD player, which are both connected directly to the TV's two component inputs. Admittedly I haven't watched very many DVD's yet, but I play a lot of XBOX.

I'm at a loss. What could be making this happen? Is there some kind of conflict because I'm using both an HDMI cable AND an optical audio output from the STB? Any suggestions/experience would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.