This banter with blownpixel is just stupid. He doesn't have a AE700. He thinks more problems are reported because it is highly flawed rather than the most popular consumer level HDTV projector ever sold. We know the latter is true, but he still thinks the former is true to back up his view point.

He is what is commonly known as a forum troll. Do not feed the trolls by replying to him. He might even reply to me, and watch me ignore him.

When I had my superbowl party with my AE700 and a 110" screen, the adjectives I heard was "spectacular" and "awesome". My wife was dubious of buying a screen/projector instead of a normal HDTV TV, but she loves the Panny now. We love watching HDTV basketball games on it and I can't wait until football season.

blownpixel
"No other projector or product in the history of the AVS Forum has ever had the combined list of faults, flaws, gremlins and glitches as the Panasonic PTAE-700"
Do your homework. At the rate that digital projectors are improving in most regards, this is a ridiculous comment. Many $10,000 pj's from a few years (or less) ago had quite a few more problems. They were simply not as popular. Front projection for home theater usage is growing rapidly. Almost everyone with a regular tv who sees my setup eventually wants to get a front projector.

kbellve
you are right. Ignore the trolls.

Originally posted by tsteves



"No other projector or product in the history of the AVS Forum has ever had the combined list of faults, flaws, gremlins and glitches as the Panasonic PTAE-700"

Do your homework. At the rate that digital projectors are improving in most regards, this is a ridiculous comment.

I have done my homework, which means I can make a statement of fact not opinion.

Let me say it again: "No other projector or product in the history of the AVS Forum has ever had the combined list of faults, flaws, gremlins and glitches as the Panasonic PTAE-700"

As I said to Ted if there is another; name it.

Are you telling me the list of issues with the PTAE-700 should now be expected by those new to projection because of the numbers of projectors sold?

Be sure you understand the issue; I am not talking solely about the number of people posting here (and elsewhere) but the **range** and number of issues experienced by owners with the PTAE-700.

Any extremely popular item whether it is electronic equipment or software will always have more complaints and more reported problems simply because more people own them. Look at Microsoft. They feel the heat about security etc. because they have 90% market share. If Linux had 90% of the market share it would be in the same position MS is in.

It is the same with electronic devices. Take it for what you will, but thats just how it goes. I have the AE700 and I think it is a great PJ for the money. I was a little bit aprehensive when i first got it because of all the posts about this and that, but the damn thing is just great.

I didn't think anyone was going to be brave enough to mention the Pansonic PTAE-700 and Microsoft in the same sentence...

But let me guess Russell - first time projector owner, less than 450 hours on the clock?

searched for "problem" in top threads for various projectors. Not very scientific, but not completely unscientific either. Definately more scientific than stating "I have done my homework" from a "Registered: Apr 2005" member.

4805
posts 13143
posts with "problem" 1164
posts/problem posts - 11.3

HS50(51)
posts 4224
posts with "problem" 402
posts/problem posts - 10.5

AE700
posts 1953
posts with "problem" 275
posts/problem posts - 7.1

Optoma H31
posts 2271
posts with "problem" 179
posts/problem posts - 12.7

So, my bad. Maybe you are right. Now will you go away?

blownpixel
Let me say it again: "No other projector or product in the history of the AVS Forum has ever had the combined list of faults, flaws, gremlins and glitches as the Panasonic PTAE-700"

let us use blownpixel's logic and transfer it to the music industry. THE BEATLES hold the record for the most albums returned. this must mean that they were the worst musical group of all time. also on that list were the Rolling Stones,Elvis, and The Eagles.or perhaps pixels logic is faulty and perhaps there is a corelation between total albums sales and the number of albums returned. :)

Originally posted by rday1960
blownpixel
Let me say it again: "No other projector or product in the history of the AVS Forum has ever had the combined list of faults, flaws, gremlins and glitches as the Panasonic PTAE-700"

let us use blownpixel's logic and transfer it to the music industry. THE BEATLES hold the record for the most albums returned. this must mean that they were the worst musical group of all time. also on that list were the Rolling Stones,Elvis, and The Eagles.or perhaps pixels logic is faulty and perhaps there is a corelation between total albums sales and the number of albums returned. :)

Someone needs to go back to analogy school!!:cool:

Maybe if we feed the troll enough he will get himself banned?

Only joking. really.

The truth is bp, everyone has the right to point out their views and complaints on these forums.

HOWEVER you keep digging yourself into a deeper and deeper hole, not because you complain so much, but because you NEVER CONTRIBUTE ANYTHING POSITIVE.

You remind me of the child who walks into a room full of adults and immediately starts complaining and crying, until he receives the attention he craves so much....

To everyone else I apologize for sidetracking the thread.

I do have something positive to add though, I have found another great use for my pj. I used it to show me the flaws on a wall I was prepping to paint!
Fantastic!
I could see every mark and dent, clear as day!

Oh AND you can watch MOVIES with it! Awesome!

Originally posted by Zipplemeyer
Someone needs to go back to analogy school!!:cool:

:D :D

ted

It has been asked in this forum and the tweak forum if the AE700 will accept a HD signal on the 15 pin input from the 15 pin output of the RCA DTC 100 STB and the RCA DTC250 STB.

I have searched both threads and never found a definite answer to the question.

Please share your experience if you have the AE700 working with the above mentioned STB's

Thanks,

Henry

hmcewin
have not tried either stb with ae700 but have no reason to doubt they would work. The RGB (VGA) input on the ae700 should have no problem with the rgbhv outputs, I would think. Don't sue me if there is a problem.

I find it astounding that people here say smooth screen is useless and SD is a non-issue on the Z3.
I can easily see SD on my Z3 from above the recommended viewing distance, defocusing is absolutely necessary. Smooth screen is quite an advantage of the Pana700, although it has its own issues like all affordable PJs.

I find it astounding that people here say smooth screen is useless and SD is a non-issue on the Z3.
I can easily see SD on my Z3 from above the recommended viewing distance, defocusing is absolutely necessary. Smooth screen is quite an advantage of the Pana700, although it has its own issues like all affordable PJs.

Yep, that was a major consideration for what I wanted to do with mine - sit close for 2.35 source. I *can* see SDE on the 700 at about 5 ft though. There are other artifacts to deal with when sitting close but those are more readily tolerated (by me) than a fixed unsolid picture structure. One of the joys of film is its amorphous nature - no two frames alike.

Right now I think the real limitation is source - I find WMV sources at 720 an 1080p really allows the resolution to show through. Anyone who thinks DVD is a "sharp" source should consider that is simply tired old NTSC. I look forward to Hi Def DVD.

ted

So SDE is visible on the Pana700 too, interesting. I can also still see it a bit on my defocused Z3, so for people with sharp eyesight (or, in my case, nearly perfectly matched contact lenses), some hints about the picture being a pixel matrix will always be there.
About source material: WMV9 streams aren't really a good source, MPEG2-TS HD broadcasts are usually quite a bit better.
Seeing SDE or not doesn't have to do much with the resolution though.

tvted
I *can* see SDE on the 700 at about 5 ft though.

i have a friend who likes to stand a foot from my screen and point that out. how much of an issue is it in your theater ? 5 ft seems to be getting picky.

So SDE is visible on the Pana700 too, interesting. I can also still see it a bit on my defocused Z3, so for people with sharp eyesight (or, in my case, nearly perfectly matched contact lenses), some hints about the picture being a pixel matrix will always be there.
About source material: WMV9 streams aren't really a good source, MPEG2-TS HD broadcasts are usually quite a bit better.
Seeing SDE or not doesn't have to do much with the resolution though.

I'm aware of what you say - my sense of picture structure comes from years of staring at TV Control room monitor walls. So I should have said that is with a white field with no motion - where it is most apparent, and this was only 5 ft - I've yet to have anyone over who was able to see it greater than 3. This is also projected 50 x 89 which has to be taken into sonsideration as that puts it about .675 screen widths.

*I* might sit that close but then I'm nuts. ;) I really am an LCOS wannabee on a 3d Viewmaster budget.

ted

tvted
I *can* see SDE on the 700 at about 5 ft though.

i have a friend who likes to stand a foot from my screen and point that out. how much of an issue is it in your theater ? 5 ft seems to be getting picky.

Wayyyyyyyyy too picky.
I kick people out if they say they can see SDE. ;) So its no "issue" for me at all. Even the kids don't sit that close. "What are the dots for dad?"

My way of illustrating that what I'm looking at is apparent to me and under specific conditions as mentioned to audiophobe.

ted

Well, to be frank vertical banding is more visible to me than the screendoor. I sit 3m watching a 84" picture.

Somewhere in this thread someone asked if the AE700 would work with the DTC210 STB through the VGA input. I have tested this and the AE700 works very well with the DTC210 STB.

just lost my post

I just received my AE700 yesterday. It is replacing my NEC 6PG CRT for now.

After an initial setup I was able to pretty much tweak a few things (mainly lowering lamp brightness and contrast) and get a good picture on my blackout cloth over tileboard 100" screen. It is driven by HTPC running Windows Media Center @ 1280x720 which is auto detected by the projector as 720 on the VGA (PC) port.

I like the picture overall, but on LOTR I started noticing the campfires would move in sudden little vertical line shifts when the camera panned instead of moving fluidly. In The MAtrix it became quite evident when there was action, especially in the background, that I could not really make it out, although the picture was very clean and crisp when the action stopped with a lot of detail. Basically, when there is background detail and movement it becomes less clear- a lot more so than I ever remember seeing on these DVD's. As soon as the picture was, say, stopped on Trinity's face, you could make out really good detail.

So, I am wondering first, what is this called? I have read through the threads and believe it may be "Motion Blurring"?

Next, will the DVI output to an HDMI converter cable help with this? Am I correct in my set-up as far as resolution etc.?

Any other suggestions are much appreciated. I am a newbie to LCD and the AE700 and apologize as I am sure these are already answered. I did search extensively for information about this on the AE700 but am unsure about what it is exactly.

~Thank You!

I find it astounding that people here say smooth screen is useless and SD is a non-issue on the Z3.
I can easily see SD on my Z3 from above the recommended viewing distance, defocusing is absolutely necessary. Smooth screen is quite an advantage of the Pana700, although it has its own issues like all affordable PJs.

If it astounds you, you're "projecting" your preferences on others. ;)

People's ability to see SD depends on their visual acuity, the distance they sit from the screen, and possibly on the type of screen they use. My vision is corrected to 20/20. I sit 1.8 screen widths back from my ME screen (DIY). Watching my Z3 in a totally dark room I can see faint pixelation in large white areas, but not under any other conditions. I do not find it the slightest bit distracting, but others might. SDE is another matter. I cannot see SDE unless I move closer to the screen. I could, however, see VB on the demo AE700U I watched at a local HT retailer, and found it distracting enough to eliminate the 700 from my list of possible choices. To ME, smooth screen on the AE700U was useless. To someone else, it may be invaluable, but that doesn't astound me and it doesn't mean they're wrong in their own personal choice. They like what they like, and I like what I like.

I just received my AE700 yesterday. It is replacing my NEC 6PG CRT for now.

After an initial setup I was able to pretty much tweak a few things (mainly lowering lamp brightness and contrast) and get a good picture on my blackout cloth over tileboard 100" screen. It is driven by HTPC running Windows Media Center @ 1280x720 which is auto detected by the projector as 720 on the VGA (PC) port.

I like the picture overall, but on LOTR I started noticing the campfires would move in sudden little vertical line shifts when the camera panned instead of moving fluidly. In The MAtrix it became quite evident when there was action, especially in the background, that I could not really make it out, although the picture was very clean and crisp when the action stopped with a lot of detail. Basically, when there is background detail and movement it becomes less clear- a lot more so than I ever remember seeing on these DVD's. As soon as the picture was, say, stopped on Trinity's face, you could make out really good detail.

So, I am wondering first, what is this called? I have read through the threads and believe it may be "Motion Blurring"?

Next, will the DVI output to an HDMI converter cable help with this? Am I correct in my set-up as far as resolution etc.?

Any other suggestions are much appreciated. I am a newbie to LCD and the AE700 and apologize as I am sure these are already answered. I did search extensively for information about this on the AE700 but am unsure about what it is exactly.

~Thank You!

The cRT Forum was always ripping fast with advice :) ~LoL~ So I realize I am a TOTAL NEWBIE when it comes to Digital. I demo'd everything I could locally, but finally bought site unseen based on what I read online. Now, heres the wierd thing I don't understand. After the first night I took the AE700 off the coffee table and put it away. The next day I hooked it back up and powered it on. The HTPC ran the whole time as it is my cable PVR. I watched an Anime title and then for fun put on The MAtrix again. Same blurry action background problem. Then I changed it to 1024 as my old setup used this. Same blurry problem. Then, because of computer updates, I let my computer reboot and the blurry action went away! Later I put the PC resolution back to 1280 and again, as I watched The Matrix scenes- not much blurry backgrounds even in fast action scenes. I then watched the movie Hero and I gotta say, it was beautiful! I really enjoyed it and the colors- even with my quick tweaks only- not a full calibration- was a joy to watch.

I can be critical and see VB on warm-up especially with the stock XP background, but hey- the movie was a wonderful experience and well focused and colored throughout. The only way I could of got really picky was to disregard the film and look for problems. I have no idea why the reboot changed things, but it fixed itself and hopefully will last :)

Thanks, and if I should be posting in another area or making a new thread just let me know. I am just a newbie digital guy retiring his beloved CRT after a long joyful run with it.

Thanks! :)

Thanks, and if I should be posting in another area or making a new thread just let me know. I am just a newbie digital guy retiring his beloved CRT after a long joyful run with it.

Thanks! :)

Stay here. ;)
This is the perfect place to post.
Its interesting to hear your impressions coming from a CRT.

What screen size / seating ratio are you at? Are you sitting at a different distance than CRT?

ted

I recently purchased an AE700 from a reputable online dealer. On setup, I noticed a dark vertical line along the right edge of the projected image, about 3 pixels in from the actual edge of the projected image. I sent some screen shots to customer support, and they agreed it would meet DOA stds and we arranged for a replacement. The customer support/tech rep told me it was most likely a panel allignment issue and that all LCD projectors have some imperfections re panel alignment. Anyway, I just got my replacement, which the tech guy supposedly quality checked (and even told me he sent me the best of 3 AE700's which he quality checked in order to give me the 1 with the best panel allignment), but low and behold it still has the same line about 3 pixels from the right edge. I've toyed with different setups/sources/angles ...etc. so I believe it's the projector. Is this line, which really bothers me since I'm "drawn" into looking at it constantly to remind myself how much it bothers me, an issue for all AE700's or all LCD/DLP projectors? I also notice a similar faint line, but only at times, a couple of pixels in from the other edges, but the vertical line along the right side is the most noticeable. Now that I've pointed it out, even my wife notices it! (I probably shouldn't have pointed it out to her, since this only caused her to ask why we just didn't get a plasma...). Thanks for anyone who can shed light on this! I have a limited time to try to get another DOA replacement, assuming the'd even allow that since this new unit was supposedly quality checked. If this is an inherent AE700 problem only, then I may consider trying to swap this for a different projector, even though I love (almost) everything else about the AE700. Thanks again.

I am going to ask an idiotic question here, as I have searched but not found the definative answer.

I purchased a AE700 two days ago and it is great. Looks like 1.05 firmware.

Anyway the question is can the firmware be upgraded at home or does it have to go to a service centre? If at home where do you d/l'ed from and how is it updated.

avkarma -- Two comments: (1) If you're using the maximum zoom (PJ as close to the screen as you can get) then you could be getting defraction off the edge of something in the lens path -- move the PJ further back, if you can. (2) you can always zoom to a slightly larger picture so the edges fall onto the black surround of your screen. Then you won't see the "dark vertical line at the edge" and you won't lose any significant picture detail.

Also, you don't say what your signal source is. You could be getting an artifact from your source (or do you see it with only one of a number of sources -- TV, DVD, and/or PC?).

chrissara -- I believe it's a service center job, but that needs to be answered by an AE700 owner that has done it, see the AE700 Tweek thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=465849

On setup, I noticed a dark vertical line along the right edge of the projected image, about 3 pixels in from the actual edge of the projected image.

If you really checked with different sources and connections and its still there then i dont know. I dont have such problem with my sanyo z3.

Claus, for now I'm projecting onto a 4X8 sheet of gatorboard until I purchase a pull down screen (I'm still researching that one), so I have no black borders or masking. I guess I understand that once I have screen borders it will be less of a problem since I can zoom away the lines and fuzziness which sometimes appears on the outside of the lines, but I'm bothered that part of the projected image (even if it's only a few pixel rows worth) will be lost. Also, I don't believe that borders/masking will solve the edge issue completely unless I can mask 4:3 and anamorphic images (yes, I still see it when projecting 4:3 or anamorphic images) which I will not be able to do with a budget oriented 16X9 screen I'm looking to purchase (unless I mess with intended aspect ratios which I'm loath to do). For a source I'm mostly using a JVC progressive scan DVD player (I've tried in both interlaced and progressive modes with a variety of DVD's), but I've also tried it with my cable box and the lines are still there, albeit faint. Also, I've tried it at a variety of throw distances and zooming. Last night I noticed the faint black lines actually appear around all four edges of the image, and actually "criss-cross" (!!! - maybe this is the ultimate clue?!!!) at all 4 corners, so maybe what I'm seeing without masking is some sort of underscan/overscan?? (I'm not exactly sure what those terms mean). Using logic, it appears to me that the criss-crossing I see at each of the 4 corners should provide the ultimate clue for a real expert (not me!). Funny aside, I ran this issue by an "A/V specialist" at a local HT store who's knowledge ended at CR's and resolution. Also, could this have something to do with edge enhancement, edge ringing, sharpness, or any of the other myriad things I've read about but don't fully comprehend? What I'm realling looking for is: (1) reassurance that I shouldn't be thinking I need to swap or change PJ's; and (2) assuming I get that reassurance, then proceeding to (a) understand the issue and then (b) trying possible tweaks/solutions. Thanks again.

Stay here. ;)
This is the perfect place to post.
Its interesting to hear your impressions coming from a CRT.

What screen size / seating ratio are you at? Are you sitting at a different distance than CRT?

ted

I just did a search for another post of mine and found this thread again, please pardon the long response time :)

I was watching on the same crt screen and seating distance. It is a 100" screen and I am sitting about 1.45 seating ratio.

The motion blurring, for some reason, after watching many many dvds, is gone except for my copy of LOTR Two Towers. One of the things I did since the original post was to use the HDMI input which was a great improvement in quality over the VGA input I originally used. Everything was drastically clearer and better defined and I knew I was keeping this projector at the point I switched to HDMI.

I also bought an OPPO upconverting hdmi dvd player since then and the only dvd to have the extreme motion blurring was, again, my copy of LOTR Two Towers. It is the DTS Widescreen Version, Blue Cover. I never noticed any problem with it on my CRT and felt the background pans were beautiful. I have no idea why, but it looks terrible on the Panny. I think I am going to buy a different copy and see how it looks, because all other films I have seen with fast panning look acceptable or better.

I have also done a lot different physical setups and calibrations and am getting to know my way around this machine (and its relationship to my source players) pretty well. The picture quality has definately improved since I first posted and I am happy with it.

My GAF is way up now too. The OPPO and Panny are really loved by her, and I am in the process of building a new HTPC and don't have to worry about whether she can operate it since she prefers the OPPO. :)

In retrospect, I have to wonder if I now had some of the other PJ's I demo'd (or if I had time to take the ones I in-store demo'd home) and play with them for a few months would I not have had a similar result? There was a big curve learning and tweaking curve for me from out of the box to happiness, and I can honestly say that the only good Picture Quality PJ I demo'd before I bought this was the Marantz I in store demo'd at the local high end stereo store. From what I remember the Panny is close or better. I think I will watch a movie here and then go there and ask to demo the same movie again immediately aftwards one weekend to be sure. :)

I also wish I could real-time switch between my old CRT and the Panny now. As I recall it, The colors were more traditionally cinematic on the CRT and there was a little more depth on all material, although depth on the Panny can now take the audiences breath away as well it just doen't happen quite as often. The colors on the Panny are brighter and seem to have more clarity. My audiences mention the colors most often. The color on the Marantz and the Panny "popped" out at me too, and at first I did not like this, but now I am enjoying it.

Anyways, at this point I enjoying my AE700u a great deal. I am not technically a "convert" because I still love CRT PJ's too. Thanks to everyone here in the forums for helping me with setups and decisions. This forum is awesome! :)

STILL HAVING WHITE FLASHES. I have a brand new AE700 made in June05, shipped with R1.07. I am using a Samsung HD-841 with DVI out, a 25 foot cable and Monster DVI-HDMI converter. DVDs play with White Flashes. Lots in the first few minutes from startup, then intermittently avery couple of minutes. I have read all posts on white flashes from both AE700 threads, and they seem to show this was solved with 1.05. So why do I still have it with 1.07? The 25 foot DVI cable worked flawlessly with this player on the AE500 I upgraded from, so I doubt the cable is a contributing factor. HDCP detection issue? Overscan problem? No problems with component connections at all. Any recommendations appreciated. Thanks for any help.

STILL HAVING WHITE FLASHES. I have a brand new AE700 made in June05, shipped with R1.07. I am using a Samsung HD-841 with DVI out, a 25 foot cable and Monster DVI-HDMI converter. DVDs play with White Flashes. Lots in the first few minutes from startup, then intermittently avery couple of minutes. I have read all posts on white flashes from both AE700 threads, and they seem to show this was solved with 1.05. So why do I still have it with 1.07? The 25 foot DVI cable worked flawlessly with this player on the AE500 I upgraded from, so I doubt the cable is a contributing factor. HDCP detection issue? Overscan problem? No problems with component connections at all. Any recommendations appreciated. Thanks for any help.Did you try a different cable?

Has anyone had a 700 fail like this?

Mine died and went black in the middle of a movie to the sound of the PJ fan speeding up for shut down and the iris (I think) mechanics clicking as they do for shut down. Also, the power indicator on top of the PJ would flicker between amber and green before settling on red. Doing nothing else but wait and the projector would start up again flicking between amber and green with a picture comming up occasionally before shutting down once more.

Panasonic are replacing the unit free of charge. I had 1350 hours on the globe and it had the usual low fan mode occassional slow flicker. They tried a new globe and a ballast board in the mean time to no avail. The fault was intermittent at times where no signal was being sent to the PJ. It had run OK in the shop when the "Ballast" board was replaced (no signal connected to the PJ, blue screen), but died almost immediately when I hooked up my Oppo DVD via HDMI at home. And here's the rub;

It died about 3 movies after I hooked my brand new Oppo up to it (beautiful pic with the oppo) and I can't rub out the thought that the failure of the projector has nothing to do with the Oppo.

Should I try a different cable? Should I find the voltage specs on the HDMI and measure that?

I get my new PJ next week, would you guys plug it in with or without fear.

I have a the AE700 and Oppo with no problem. Glad they are replacing your unit.

Birchwood,
I had a simular problem as you only mine happened a lot sooner on my bulb... around 165 hours. I sent it in for them to fix it and update the firmware. They updated it and sent it back saying nothing was wrong. I plugged it in and it worked for an hour long enough for me to get it all lined back up. I called Panasonic back and said hey I just spent $33 to send it to you why didn't you fix it. They tried to say that it was the bulb. And if I sent it back the warranty wouldn't cover the replacement of the bulb. Something like $108 to change out the bulb ( I want that job!). I bought my own new bulb put it in and sure enough didn't work. I then called Panny back and sent it to them for another $33. They ended up changing the power supply. My projector now works fine. You should ask them to look at your power supply.

Hope you get it worked out!

Birchwood,
I had a simular problem as you only mine happened a lot sooner on my bulb... You should ask them to look at your power supply.

Hope you get it worked out!

Thanks nate358 and rwestlwy. But I wont ask them to look at the power supply, I'll just accept a replacement! Maybe their tech should have considered the power supply, to me it's very like a dry joint (in the power supply circuits) the way it shuts down and powers up with the power led flickering.

Maybe I should not panic about plugging the Oppo into the new Panny when it arrives - globe hours, back to zero from 1350 or so!!

You lucky Dog you! If only this happend to all of us :rolleyes:

Nate358. They will never fix the cropping on the Zenith DVB 318. I still have mine and I should sell it on Ebay. Very bad support from Zenith(LG)

This thread is HUGE but hopefully Im not repeating what someone else has asked.
My ae700 has a colour problem, the yellows have a pretty ugly green cast to them. This is my 3rd ae700 and they all have had the same problem, I should post a photo of the image perhaps?
How do I adjust for this problem, Ive read its best to do this on the display, not the source, the source is a HTPC, with a radeon 9200. Im using VGA, should I swap to a
dvi->hdmi converter?
I have played with the crosshairs thing but it doesnt seem like the best way to fix it, should I perservere with that?

chargin

To help determine the source of your color shift, it would be a good idea to connect a source other than your HTPC to the projector. You really want to be sure that its not the HTPC causing the color shift.

I have the HTPC hooked up to my Acer 32" LCD at the moment at it all looks fine, yellows are perfect. Ive tried my STB with the pj and it does the same thing, bad yellows, greens look kinda jaundiced too, sorta yellow looking, grass is the easiest way to see the bad greens.
Ive had 3 of these pj's and they all did this so I thought perhaps it was a common issue??

chargin

How is your source device connected to the projector? HDMI, component, etc??

Hi Jimp, I did put vga in my first post.

Hi Jimp, I did put vga in my first post.


Oops, sorry. Didn't see that. :o

I've not had any problems with color shift. I'm connected via DVI/HDMI cable.

Maybe someone using VGA can comment.

Vga here, no problems with that at all.

Are you using a new cable?

I find it difficult to believe that you could get 3 pj's(of any brand) in a row with the same colour shift. It must be coming from elsewhere.

This may be a silly question but are you, by any chance, using a filter of any kind on your lens?

Have you calibrated the AE700?

What mode are you using? (cinema1/2, normal, video?)

Um, your not projecting onto a coloured wall are you?

What about environmental effects such as coloured lights in the room, or green curtains?

How about you try this, go to service mode and project white, hold up a piece of white paper(printer or photocopy) 20-30cm('bout a foot) in front of the lens. What colour is it?

chargin
Setup the ae700 vga input to rgb, not y-pr-pb (component video).

My 700 is fast approaching the 500 hour mark, almost entirely at low power.
In the beginning of its time with me, as my room was incomplete, it was used occasionally and in a variety of locations.
Always projected onto walls of varying colours and quality. Because of this I never tweaked the projector, except to set it to natural -1, certainly I never used the flicker tweak.
I saw very little vb only on a couple of occasions, in the first hundred hours, then none.
Apart from not being able to get perfect focus across the screen, (which only affects me when reading text, browsing the internet or at the desktop) I have had no issues with the unit.

I should point out at this stage that my room is now finished(or as finished as they get....) with matt black stage paint on the ceiling and front wall. The other walls are a purplish blue(enigma), carpet a slightly lighter blue. The single window has(now) heavy blue drapes, giving me total light control.
Screen is 2.7meter diagonal, aluminium frame with 3 pass blackout.
The 700 has it's own power circuit and a UPS.
I almost never turn the power off to the unit, just send it into standby and leave the room.
As a matter of fact, I recall only turning it off once and that was because we went away for the weekend.

Last night, I noticed it was a little darker than usual.

Then I noticed a flicker, well, not really a flicker. More of a change from bright to dark, less than a second intervals, but random.
Interestingly, it 'seemed' to be flicking between the old level of light output and the new. I have no way to prove that, it is subjective, however it was very convincing at the time.

I had friends coming over to watch a movie later in the night so I wanted this flickering to stop but I didn't want to adjust the flicker settings because I don't want to encourage vb.
So instead I thought I'd just increase light output.
I set the lamp to high, and the mode to dynamic. I left the pj running for about half an hour like this, I had to leave the room.
Just too damn bright. Damn, dynamic is AWFUL.

So when I returned to the room, I set the mode back to natural and the lamp to low power.
I then watched a demo disk for a while and the flicker was gone. The lamp, however, had lost brightness. Not enough to be concerned about though, less than the difference between high and low lamp mode.

So my friends came over and we watched The Two Towers, extended. No flicker, no vb, just a gorgeous picture. Everyone was suitably impressed. As was I!

So, in my experience, those that buy themselves a new 700 and then start 'doing the flicker tweak' and being paranoid about cutting power to the unit to make sure they don't get vb, are doing themselves a great disservice.

I recall someone, quite a while ago, mentioned that trying to adjust vb in the early life of the pj might be a mistake. seems they could have been right.

I'm glad I let mine settle.

To anyone buying a 700, don't tweak it past the very basics at the beginning. Give it a chance to settle, burn in, whatever you want to call it.

You have nothing to lose by being patient, if you have vb at the beginning it may go away and if it doesn't the tweak can still be done.
But I suspect that once you've been tweaking your arse off at the beginning, there may be no going back.

Oh, and if your globe starts to flicker or vary brightness at the 4-500 hour mark, try what I did. I'm interested to see if it made any difference or whether it was going to settle in that time period anyway.


Smegger....out! :D

I agree thay the most important thing is to enjoy your projector. I have had my AE700 since last December with few problems. I did have some VB when I got it but it is nearly gone. I have not touched the settings in months. I am using the B+W 81EF flilter with great results. I was not happy with the blacks but they are great now. I have noticed a slight drop in brightness but this is normal with any projector. I have just viewed Sin City and I was the picture quality was great. If the source is good the picture is usually great.
Many of the complaints in this fourm have come from people who have used bad disks or
bad sources. The AE700 will show the good and bad. Garbage in, Garbage out.

Ive taken a shot and attached it of the Avia disc's colour test, the yellow looks pretty bad in that, the aircraft in the same pic have a bit of the green in their yellow paint, not as bad as Ive seen before but it was what I was able to find quickly.

Tssteves
"Setup the ae700 vga input to rgb, not y-pr-pb (component video)."
I dont think you can set VGA to anything but "PC" and get an image? at least not with a standard VGA cable. My screen is curtain blackout material, I tried a piece of white paper tonight and it was indistinguishable from the screen. My HTPC looks fine on my ACER 32" LCD (which has its own issues... I hate HT sometimes)

I havent done the service mode/paper/white image test yet.

The walls are pink (agggghghhhh) roof is white.

Sorry I took a while to get back, I didnt get any notification emails this time, strange on AVS, sometimes I get a mssg sometimes not.

Smegger
I recall someone, quite a while ago, mentioned that trying to adjust vb in the early life of the pj might be a mistake.
Sounds like me. I certainly can't say if it actually helps, but it seems like it has for me. May be coincidence or wishful thinking on my part.

chargin
I dont think you can set VGA to anything but "PC" and get an image?
Yeah, you are right. I thought you could adjust "signal mode".
Your yellows look pretty yellow to me. Did you calibrate the colors?

Ive taken a shot and attached it of the Avia disc's colour test, the yellow looks pretty bad in that, the aircraft in the same pic have a bit of the green in their yellow paint, not as bad as Ive seen before but it was what I was able to find quickly.


Chargin,

Has the TINT (HUE) control been adjusted on your setup?
I say this because the CYAN bar looks wrong and closer to the GREEN than it should.
The TINT in my opinion should swing more towards the BLUE.

Since you are using an HTPC, are you using OVERLAY or VMR9?
What is you player software, and have you done any ajustement of the Vidcards Colour Controls? You also mention that your TV looks correct - was this calibrated at the display or at the player end?

ted

I dont think VGA has any tint or hue adjustment? only the crosshair thing.

Ive just been playing with my photo of the avia test pattern in photoshop. Using the colour picker tool is very interesting, most of the other colours in the test pattern are pretty much nearer to their true colour on the graduated colour bar in the colour picker, but the yellow is not in the yellow section really, its into the edge of the green. The photo of the jet aircraft comes up much better, using colour picker its much more into the yellow. Id like to post some screenshots of what I mean perhaps, if people arent familiar with the colour picker.
Maybe I should get a better photo of the screen, is there a thread somewhere on how to get good exposure/focus/colour from a projected image via digital camera? What about software that creates a colour profile from a photo of a screen?

The LCD was never adjusted, just plugged and played, via VGA.
I use zoomplayer and have tried all the different overlays, none make any difference, adjusting the hue and saturation can help a little.. Ive played with a radeon and ti4200's colour controls and neither were really able to improve the problem, probably more my lack of understanding of how colours work/mix.

I dont think VGA has any tint or hue adjustment? only the crosshair thing.


Don't believe so - but don't recall for sure so had to ask as it does look like colour phase errors as the remaining bars are not too far off. The AVIA test you used can be used to check HUE errors - have you done so?

I drive mine with a 9500 Pro over a DVI-HDMI transport and its been a while since I've used VGA.

The "crosshair" thing - have you been playing with colour management?
Can you be sure that you have a setting on the 700 with neutral (factory) values? I'm assuming here that your vidcard is indeed neutral and is not imapacting on the chain. I think it is important that you have one setup with factory settings.

What codec(s) are you using with ZP?
I get what I consider excellent results from DScaler5.

Do you get the same colour issues over Component with a DVD player?

Finally, the following threads are extremely useful for calibrating a PJ

Any source: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=494606
HTPC specific: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=523614

The HTPC one grew out of the first link, but I believe the first one is a must read.

ted

Many apologies if this question has arisen before, but I did a search and got no results.

I'm just over 600 hours on my PT AE700 and it no longer powers on, instead it just cycles throught he warmup process. Initially it only did this when I was in standby mode for a long period, and it was powered on. A solution initailly was to power off for a few hours and then it would be fine. Now, even when it has been powered off for 24 hours, the green light flashes like normal when powering on, then turns amber, then cycles again (green ... amber...).

My initial thought was that it may be the lamp or a heat issue, but neither indicator has come on. Has anyone else had this issue? Any comments would be appreciated. I'm going to take it in to Panasonic this week.

My initial thought was that it may be the lamp or a heat issue, but neither indicator has come on. Has anyone else had this issue? Any comments would be appreciated. I'm going to take it in to Panasonic this week.

Is the fan cycling on?

ted

Yes... Once turned on, the power indicator blinks green, there is a clicking noise, the fan engages, the indicator light turns amber, then the unit shuts down. Then the whole process repeats.

I found another post earlier suggesting it may be a power supply. I have sent a message to Panasonic Canada using their Customer Support link, and will be calling them tomorrow.

Yes... Once turned on, the power indicator blinks green, there is a clicking noise, the fan engages, the indicator light turns amber, then the unit shuts down. Then the whole process repeats.

I found another post earlier suggesting it may be a power supply. I have sent a message to Panasonic Canada using their Customer Support link, and will be calling them tomorrow.

This symptom is what my projector had at 1450 hours. Initially I had to wait two weeks until a globe was available to test - the unit was as before. Then the Panasonic Tech support requested my repairer order and replace the "Ballast PCB" Part No TXANP02V0Y7. This had to be ordered and took a further 4 weeks to arrive.

I documented everything.

The board was replaced and this did not work either. I then said I did not want this unit back and that I was no longer prepaired to wait any longer. A Sydney rep rang to say he had ordered a replacement and that the repairer had been contacted to return the faulty unit to him.

Yipee! New PJ with a brand new globe.

I guess parts availability down under helped with my request for a new PJ. You may well get your parts quicker than me. Any how, I hope the info helps because your symptoms sound exactly like mine, ie the Globe and/or Ballast board may not fix the fault.

Yikes.... I was hoping to have it back by the end of the week. Thanks for the "heads up" from "down under". I will pass this information on to the tech I talk to today.

Yikes.... I was hoping to have it back by the end of the week. Thanks for the "heads up" from "down under". I will pass this information on to the tech I talk to today.

That is the Ballast board that Birchwood is referring to - not sure if a bad one would shut the unit down - it is used to fire the lamp. I believe there are some about who have had to have their ballast board replaced.

ted

Well I took it in to Panasonic yesterday, armed with the info from this thread. Peter (the very freindly technician) explained to me that the units are quite different from country to country especially in regards to power (Canada has CSA approval etc). However, the place I took it too is the Panasonic service center for Canada (about 10 minutes from where I work). Luckily they have all the parts available to them. Unfortunately the guy who fixes projectors is off for the next week and a half.

I can program everything in my livingromm into my Yamaha HTR reciever but the Panny. Can anyone tell me why or if there is a workaround?

I can program everything in my livingromm into my Yamaha HTR reciever but the Panny. Can anyone tell me why or if there is a workaround?

You mean Video? If this is correct, why not do your switching at the PJ.

I would recommend bypassing the receiver altogether as it will compromise your video sources.


ted

Sorry, the subject was right but my question was not stated correctly.

I can not program the combination remote for the Yamaha with the code for the Panny's function to go to standby. I want to use one remote to turn everything off. When I try to get the Yamaha's remote to learn the from the Panny's remote. I get an error message on the Yamaha remote. It just does not want to learn an AE700U code. Does anyone have any suggestiions or work-arounds?

Sorry, the subject was right but my question was not stated correctly.

I can not program the combination remote for the Yamaha with the code for the Panny's function to go to standby. I want to use one remote to turn everything off. When I try to get the Yamaha's remote to learn the from the Panny's remote. I get an error message on the Yamaha remote. It just does not want to learn an AE700U code. Does anyone have any suggestiions or work-arounds?Does the Yamaha work with any of the AE700 codes, or are you just having problems with the standby code?

I have an AE700 that used to work perfectly with a Marantz DV8400 player over DVI/HDMI. After I got my brand new Marantz DV7600 player w/ HDMI, there seems to be some kind of compatibility issue. I thought the cable (10 meters) might have some kind of problem with the increased bandwith (the 8400 only output 480p, while the 7600 does 720 p or 1080i). But no matter what resolution I chose from the 7600, there is no image when I turn the player on. The screen alters between grey and the blue screen background from the projector I have to go into setup (not easy without an image!)and change the HDMI resolution settings to get a picture. It doesn't seem to matter what resolution i choose, as long as I change it. Then the image is there, and looking good. So there seems to be some kind of "handshake" issue. I'm totally at sea here, but does anyone have a clue? Are there some AE700 settings I may have overlooked?

Well, I'm about 100 hours and have just gotten a fist sized green dust blob....

I've been looking through theses threads and was looking for some actual photos/detailed instructions of just how to get rid of them. Can somebody point me in the right direction?

I have an AE700 that used to work perfectly with a Marantz DV8400 player over DVI/HDMI. After I got my brand new Marantz DV7600 player w/ HDMI, there seems to be some kind of compatibility issue. I thought the cable (10 meters) might have some kind of problem with the increased bandwith (the 8400 only output 480p, while the 7600 does 720 p or 1080i). But no matter what resolution I chose from the 7600, there is no image when I turn the player on. The screen alters between grey and the blue screen background from the projector I have to go into setup (not easy without an image!)and change the HDMI resolution settings to get a picture. It doesn't seem to matter what resolution i choose, as long as I change it. Then the image is there, and looking good. So there seems to be some kind of "handshake" issue. I'm totally at sea here, but does anyone have a clue? Are there some AE700 settings I may have overlooked?Did you try another HDMI cable? Did your Marantz come with one? Use that for a while, and report back.

I'm at the 1465 hour on mine, and for the sencond time in a week the lamp indicator has come on with a flashing red, and it wouldn't power up until I turned it off with the power switch in the back. What does this mean exactly? The manuel says there may be an abnormality in the lamp circuit, but what does that mean? Is the lamp circuit the bulb, or does this mean I gotta be without my baby in the middle of football season? Help me, I'm scared. :(

Well, just before the 800 hour mark, my bulb started getting darker and darker.

It took about 2 hours to get to the point where it was unwatchable.

I just got back from the service agent here (Electronics Corp), the receptionist said they have had a few and bulb replacament has always been on a pro rata basis.

I'm not impressed. Bathurst 1000 V8 Supercars are on next weekend...... :eek:

Anyone who has managed to score a free bulb from panasonic, especially here in Australia, please give me some tips.

OK I hope you guys can help me out ... there are so many posts out there and one guy says one thing and then is contradicted by another.

I have the ae700u mounted about 22 feet back projecting on a silver screen wall. I have a pioneer dvd player which goes threw a pioneer A/V receiver. I feed the projector with component cables.

1st question:
At this distance is it still best to have the lamp set to low?

2nd question
Should I make it a point to put the fan on high instead of normal?

3rd question:
If I do not use the B&W filter is it still best to run the projector on normal with color temp set to -1?

4th question in the menu there is a line that says something like video setting 520p (with component cables shouldn't this be 1080p).

5th question:
Is it better to run the dvd player in interlaced or progressive?

Last question:
Should I be concerned that I have a 10 foot wide by 6ish feet tall screen? It looks good.....


I only have 20+ hours on it and have no vertical banding or anything else that I know of I just want to try to get the most out of what I have, I really think the image is wonderful even on my silver screen wall.

I guess after I get my basement completed I may look into filters but my blacks are nice and my whites are white so I don't know what I would benefit from.

I have more questions but so far I have not had any luck at all getting any answers so Ill just ask these and then follow up with a few more if thats ok??

Thanks guys
Mike

I have a PC hooked up to my AE-700, which allows me to surf the web in the HT. Problem is, I get a blank screen when switching to PC mode. I usually reboot the computer once or twice, then it finally shows up. My guess is that its a Windows issue and not the projector. My PC is running 98SE,with a ATI All-in-Wonder card. The PC is hooked up via a 25' svga cable. My display settings on the PC are 1024x768. The monitor type selected is the Plug n Play monitor.

Do I have to install a Panasonic driver?

F499

Having Bill Gates in the theater is maybe not a good idea!!

Okay, I finally bit the bullet and bought one last night. I have been reading up on everything and I decided on this model because I have seen one set up properly and it was wonderful.

Anyways, Its a Christmas gift but I'm going to check it out to see if anything is wrong with it before the gf wraps it (Bah the wait is going to kill me).

I'm looking for a up converting DVD player to use with it. I was looking at the Samsung HD850, Panasonic S77 and the new Sony S70 (I believe thats the model number).

Any members here use the DVD players mentioned above? If so how is it...

F499 - the info your looking for is not far into the ae-700 tweak thread.

Just quickly, the later ati drivers have a button, somewhere under 'display', that says "force 720p", you want to use that.

The rest is a cut and paste from the fourth post in the tweak thread(from TraderGordo)

For VGA: Start by feeding the projector a standard 1280x720 resolution. Since this is not always a resolution that is included with most video card drivers, you may need to install the free Rage3D tweak utility or any similar utility to enable this resolution.

After you have switched to the proper resolution, run the "Auto" function found in the AE700's position menu to auto set the pixel timings, you may notice that your desktop image is still cropped on the left side. Reboot your machine at this point. For me it came up perfect after reboot, but you may need to re-run "AUTO" again after rebooting.

Works great!

I just took mine in for the latest firmware update, before my warranty is up in november. Hoping for the best.

After about six months of living with a dim image, which dropped suddenly in brightness last April, and was followed by a brief period of the dreaded flicker, I seem to have emerged, just as unexpectedly, from the "Dark Ages". While reconfiguring my setup to reduce my image size and so increase relative brightness, I moved my 700 into a few various positions, and, at one point, flipped it over to examine the mounting holes. It had been unmoved since I originally set it up. When I turned it on to assess some potential new locations, I was stunned to see that the brightness had returned in full. Holy Mackerel! It's been so long since I've seen my 700 at full steam, I was riveted by the image. I'd truly forgotten how spectacular it could be.

I had pretty much blamed the lamp, but kept from buying another without any assurance it wouldn't also crap out after the honeymoon period. I now realize, under the spell of the renewed, dazzling picture, that my problem could in no way have been considered a reasonable degree of "breaking in" of the lamp. I didn't think it was reasonable, anyway, but this is my first PJ, and I'd never experienced lamp break-in before.

I guess I must reconsider my original dismissal of the iris as a potential culprit. I had heard of others experiencing a "stuck" iris, but I toggled mine on and off, and it seemed to be functioning, though very subtly. I'll try toggling it now, come to think of it, and see if its effect is any more pronounced.

Well, now I'm afraid to breathe anywhere near my 700. Whew, the picture is so georgeous! But I have serious trust issues now... she's left me before.

I suppose the gremlins could be somewhere other than the iris. Any ideas?

KongFan

kongfan, my advice is don't touch it!
Maybe the lamp connection is fussy. Next time it goes dull, take it down and jiggle it - after shutting down and cooling... of course.

Myself, I'm waiting to see if there's any vb change with the new firmware. I still had the original, in my case 1.3? I do look forward to no more white flash issues over hdmi, but never found them too much of a problem.

Guess I breathed too close. It's the dark ages again. What a glorious 50 minutes. She's off to the service center.

KongFan

Talk about getting screwed.

After being told that panasonic will replace my globe under warranty, now they say I need to make a payment for pro-rata use.

$330 for 800 hours. All in low lamp(they acknowledged this was the case).

How the hell does that work?

New globe is $550(their price), so I should pay about $147 not TWICE that.

And when I mentioned that low lamp was supposed to be 3000-5000 hours their response was "we never claimed 5000 hours from these globes, it's a maximum of 3000 hours"

Not that there is ANY info on Panasonics Aussie site any longer on the 700.....

$330 is just crazy for 800 hours.

Writting a letter to the manager of customer care, i'll see if that helps. :mad:

Talk about getting screwed.

After being told that panasonic will replace my globe under warranty, now they say I need to make a payment for pro-rata use.

$330 for 800 hours. All in low lamp(they acknowledged this was the case).

How the hell does that work?

New globe is $550(their price), so I should pay about $147 not TWICE that.

And when I mentioned that low lamp was supposed to be 3000-5000 hours their response was "we never claimed 5000 hours from these globes, it's a maximum of 3000 hours"

Not that there is ANY info on Panasonics Aussie site any longer on the 700.....

$330 is just crazy for 800 hours.

Writting a letter to the manager of customer care, i'll see if that helps. :mad:


It least you got 800 hours out of yours. I only logged 425 hours on mine, all in low lamp all with proper shutdown before the lamp went dim. I usually watch 1 or two dvd's a week, never turn it one more than once a night and always let it cool down with the fan before hard-powering off at the switch. Heartland service offered to change out my lamp while it was in for a firmware update, but offered no pro-rated price plan when I asked. Their response was that the projector was nearly a year old, even though it did have low lamp hours. I had expected at least 2000 hours if I treated it well, as they were quoting 3000 hours when I bought it. It would have been nice to known it was going to be closer to 500 hrs before I had to plunk down another $300+ for a new lamp. Of course there are those here with lamps that have lasted much longer, but I am not sure what more I could have done to baby this projector. :(

I really like the features of this projector and want to buy it. Small flaws like the VB seem a fact of life and I am cool. The issue that concerns me is the pervasive cases of very-early lamp life failure we see in this forum or any other (Eg. on the user´s rating at projector central, the reliability dimension is the only one hammered).

I would like to know if there is any info regarding pana having addressed the issue and shipping more reliable lamps in later shipments. This is key to me as I am taking a PJ overseas, so very hard to claim for warranty and even getting a normal replacement will be a timely process.

I would appreciate any comments.

Tx

BTW, anyone has an idea of the maximum acceptable length to run a the video signal on component and HDMI cables?

Spend your money on a projector with a better lamp life. I won't be buying another Panny when I upgrade. Panny should change their literature of lamp life to something more realistic than 3000 hrs. Probably 500-1000 hrs low lamp life would be more accurate.

I really like the features of this projector and want to buy it. Small flaws like the VB seem a fact of life and I am cool.

Why not wait a little to see how the AE900 goes. It will come down in price some and the VB is gone with improved performance.

I wonder if the 900 uses the same globe? Panasonic know they have an issue with the globes even if the're not publicly saying so.

Smegger
cc every other bigwig you can find a mailing address for if you are going and writing letters. I would.

My bulb is still original from Nov 2004, over 1300 hrs W/O problems. I just got it back from service for update to the latest firmware and will connect it tonight. I will give impressions on any vb or other improvements tomorrow. Back to the big screen!

Why not wait a little to see how the AE900 goes. It will come down in price some and the VB is gone with improved performance.

I wonder if the 900 uses the same globe? Panasonic know they have an issue with the globes even if the're not publicly saying so.

Well, that is an idea, but do you know what is worse than buying a discounted 700 and having your lamp blow up? Buying a full price 900 and happening the same!!! :) :mad: :) If I dont get courageous enough to bet on the 700, I would probably wait for the Z4. Sanyo seems a little more reliable.

Thanks

Mine is back. Overall I do think VB is reduced. It seemed to me like a wider adjustment range? maybe not.
Bulb is still kicking it! My biggest worry was it would get bumped around a bit and my bulb would go bad.

Personally, before I got into the pj market (and then the lcd pj market) I would have never thought much of sanyo or panasonic - quality wise. Panasonic had some good dvd players. sanyo had, well,? I mean I could see maybe buying a newer (cheaper than sony) panasonic regular tv, and a sanyo clock radio or somthing like that. To see these two going at it for best BFB LCD 2k pj's is inspiring. Infocus and TI (etc) are going to have to drive DLP prices down substantially to keep up.

Hey guys...I'm looking at buying an up converting DVD player to go along with my AE700. What are some of the models you guys are using? And how do you like them???

I'm planning on buying one within the next 2 weeks.

Hey guys...I'm looking at buying an up converting DVD player to go along with my AE700. What are some of the models you guys are using? And how do you like them???

I'm planning on buying one within the next 2 weeks.I stuck with Panny, and have a S97. There's a rather large thread about it here. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=463025)

I'm using a Denon 3910 with mine.

Have you guys stopped posting to this thread or are you posting to the "official ae700 thread"? I'm somebody is out there. My question is this.

I'm a new 700 owner and I notice that the sharpness/blur seems to come and go on a continual basis. Let me explain, It's like somebody messes with the sharpness and then when they get it just right they decide to try again to fine tune the sharpness continously. I notice it all the time no matter what the source is. Even if the image is still or moving I see it. Have you guys seen this before? Do you know of a fix? Maybe I'm describing something new.

I'm wondering if I may have made a bad decision on this pj. The Pj is everything you guys have been saying - Great colors - Great picture as in size - Scaleability is great. I just wonder if I'm the first to notice this?

Looking for answers
Thanks
Greg

Those symptoms sound like a connection problem. Maybe a bad or loose wire in you cabling. Try to use another cable and see it that works.

Have you guys stopped posting to this thread or are you posting to the "official ae700 thread"? I'm somebody is out there. My question is this.

I'm a new 700 owner and I notice that the sharpness/blur seems to come and go on a continual basis. Let me explain, It's like somebody messes with the sharpness and then when they get it just right they decide to try again to fine tune the sharpness continously. I notice it all the time no matter what the source is. Even if the image is still or moving I see it. Have you guys seen this before? Do you know of a fix? Maybe I'm describing something new.

I'm wondering if I may have made a bad decision on this pj. The Pj is everything you guys have been saying - Great colors - Great picture as in size - Scaleability is great. I just wonder if I'm the first to notice this?

Looking for answers
Thanks
Greg

Nope... your not the first to notice this.
I have noticed it two. When I first started using my AE-700, I felt like I would have to re-focus all the time. Now I have 50+ hours and I don't feel the need to constantly re-focus. I don't know if it was me just getting used to it, or it was the unit just needing a few hours on it. When I was noticing it, I attributed it to the unit getting warm, then cooling back down after shut down. Expanding then contracting causing the need for re-adjustment.
The bottom line is it has gotten better. I could see this being a major pain when I put it in a hush box. :(

Craig

Hey guys...I'm looking at buying an up converting DVD player to go along with my AE700. What are some of the models you guys are using? And how do you like them???

I'm planning on buying one within the next 2 weeks.

I have the Denon 2910 and love it.

Craig

I really like the features of this projector and want to buy it. Small flaws like the VB seem a fact of life and I am cool. The issue that concerns me is the pervasive cases of very-early lamp life failure we see in this forum or any other (Eg. on the user´s rating at projector central, the reliability dimension is the only one hammered).

I would like to know if there is any info regarding pana having addressed the issue and shipping more reliable lamps in later shipments. This is key to me as I am taking a PJ overseas, so very hard to claim for warranty and even getting a normal replacement will be a timely process.

I would appreciate any comments.

Tx

BTW, anyone has an idea of the maximum acceptable length to run a the video signal on component and HDMI cables?

If you get a 700... be sure you pick up a spare bulb for it.
They seem to be on back order right now.
I just picked one up for emergency purposes in case mine blew during a major gathering. Many places are saying next shipments for the bulb are as far out as January. :(

Craig

Nope... your not the first to notice this.
I have noticed it two. When I first started using my AE-700, I felt like I would have to re-focus all the time. Now I have 50+ hours and I don't feel the need to constantly re-focus. I don't know if it was me just getting used to it, or it was the unit just needing a few hours on it. When I was noticing it, I attributed it to the unit getting warm, then cooling back down after shut down. Expanding then contracting causing the need for re-adjustment.
The bottom line is it has gotten better. I could see this being a major pain when I put it in a hush box. :(

Craig


Craig,

I'm sure glad you guys are still out there reading this forum. I really appreciate the feedback. I just finished watching Stars Wars III and I kept waiting for the wife to comment about the blurrrrrrrrrrrrring affect. She never did....Wheeeewwww. I sure can't wait then for this "break-in" period to be over. I find it very annoying to a see this great picture and then it gets blured and quickly clears up...It's like a bad see-saw ride that never ends.

The slight VB isn't nearly has bothersome as this focus/re-focus problem. I've read this forum a lot and I have not read anybody mention this little unknown issue. I guess by the time Turkey day is here I will have surpased the magical "break-in" period and then I will report back.
Do you know if the panny 900 has this issue? Curious.

Let me know if there is any thing I can do or verify for you/readers.
Thanks again.

Greg

Greg, the picture goes in and out of focus even if you pause the DVD? I haven't seen anything like that with my AE700.

Greg, the picture goes in and out of focus even if you pause the DVD? I haven't seen anything like that with my AE700.

Good point - would point to scaler issues.

gdemery

That being said (hate that phrase), with FP, it is always recommended to give it a little warm up time - I usually turn mine on about 1/2 hr before the main feature (Let the youngsters watch something ;) ).

I also don't recall you reading what transport you are using - personally I always found Component too soft, particularly with poor source, but then I've only a 480p player hooked there. Just ask Craig :) My main source uses HDMI.

Do you have AVIA or DVE? Recommended for troubleshooting and calibration.

ted

Ted/Joe,

Regardless of how much time I let the pj warm up I still have the same issue. If you recall Suffolk112000 above mention he remembers this happening to him. He said after 50hrs of break-in this abnormality stopped. This is what I'm hoping for. I have this problem with component and dvd and component/stb and HDTV content. I'm going to try different cables. This is really my only objection to this pj. I really don't mind the little vb I see. By the way, I do not have the AVIA OR DVE to calibrate.

Greg



Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Schwartz
Greg, the picture goes in and out of focus even if you pause the DVD? I haven't seen anything like that with my AE700.


Quote:
Good point - would point to scaler issues.

gdemery

That being said (hate that phrase), with FP, it is always recommended to give it a little warm up time - I usually turn mine on about 1/2 hr before the main feature (Let the youngsters watch something ).

I also don't recall you reading what transport you are using - personally I always found Component too soft, particularly with poor source, but then I've only a 480p player hooked there. Just ask Craig My main source uses HDMI.

Do you have AVIA or DVE? Recommended for troubleshooting and calibration.

ted

No change on blurrrr when switching component cables.

No change on blurrrr when switching component cables.

How long are your cables - I personally don't think its the issue.
Have you a PC handy to hook up to the PJ via VGA or DVI.
Is your player an upscaling one? Have you tried sending both interlace and progressive to the PJ.

Is this true of reference DVDs such as The Fifth Element or I Robot?

I would try another player/PC over another transport than component. Preferably DVI/HDMI.

ted

How long are your cables - I personally don't think its the issue.
Have you a PC handy to hook up to the PJ via VGA or DVI.
Is your player an upscaling one? Have you tried sending both interlace and progressive to the PJ.

Is this true of reference DVDs such as The Fifth Element or I Robot?

I would try another player/PC over another transport than component. Preferably DVI/HDMI.

ted

I'm mainly concentrating on my STB then my DVD player(480I). When I figure out the STB I know I will have the DVD player resolved. Besides, my STB gives me HDTV which of course is the best picture. No I have not connected my pc to the PJ. I do not have HDMI.

Greg

I'm considering picking up this badboy (I was on the Infocus bandwagon until I found this at a local dealer for a decent price and a free extra bulb). I currently have a first generation Sony interlaced DVD player. How will the picture look if I keep this rather than going to an upconverting player? Would I be better off to pick up a new DVD player?

dgetson,

I have my AE700 connected to a Pioneer Elite DV-47a DVD player and I use the 480i component out. The AE700 does a beautiful job of scaling and deinterlacing. Better than the 480p from my Elite.

If you send a 480p signal your AE700 has a slight cropping issue.

Stace

Good stuff! Thanks Stace!

Quick question for AE700 owners: For some reason the aspect ratio button on my AE700 remote doesn't seem to be working--I've only used the projector for about 15 hours. The first ten hours I could switch aspect ratios and use the zoom function, but now it doesn't respond. Maybe I locked/dissengaged this somehow?

You blurry guys need to specify exactly what sources you are using and with generally the length and quality of cables, and some general setup info. Also what sources look blurry, etc.
Some source material is blurry, even hd. I do think this thing is blurry at times, but usually I think it is just the source. I am also sure at times a nice scaler would help.

Pedro2
This can depend on the source as to if it works. Any changes made?

Quick question for AE700 owners: For some reason the aspect ratio button on my AE700 remote doesn't seem to be working--I've only used the projector for about 15 hours. The first ten hours I could switch aspect ratios and use the zoom function, but now it doesn't respond. Maybe I locked/dissengaged this somehow?

The AE700 locks aspect ratio when you use the HDMI input at 540p, 720p or higher. It should be fine at 480p and 576p or if you are using component inputs--don't know about VGA as I'eve never tried it.

Dave

Hi, I've had an AE700 for nearly a year and as the end of warranty is coming up I need to sort out this problem once and for all. I've posted this several times in the UK version of this site but no one seems to have seen quite the same thing.

My problem is that my AE700's fan seems very noisy. I know for a fact that is it noisier than it should be. What happens is that after 15-20 minutes it dramatically increases in volume and becomes distracting.

I took it back to the retailer but they were unable to reproduce it, the unit worked perfectly in their showroom, even after several hours.

After much, much investigation I found the following. It's all down to ambient temperature. If my room is less than 70 degrees F then it's fine. Over 70 and it causes the problem. Now 70 degrees indoors doesn't seem unreasonable to me and is well within the AE700's spec. In fact anything less than that is uncomfortable for me.

So I plan to take it back to the retailer to send back to Panasonic with this new info. The problem is that Panasonic have a very bad reputation in the UK for service. I hear horror stories it taking months to get repairs done. Before I send it back I want to see if anyone else has had a similar experience and can shed some light on whats going on. Did Panasonic acknowledge there was a fault and do something about it? Did anyone find another solution?

BTW is on low lamp and normal fan settings. It's not set on high fan mode in the secret menu. It's also in desk mode. It's well ventilated and no were near a radiator. I have cleaned the filter many time. So it should be very quiet.

My problem is that my AE700's fan seems very noisy. I know for a fact that is it noisier than it should be. What happens is that after 15-20 minutes it dramatically increases in volume and becomes distracting.


After much, much investigation I found the following. It's all down to ambient temperature. If my room is less than 70 degrees F then it's fine. Over 70 and it causes the problem. Now 70 degrees indoors doesn't seem unreasonable to me and is well within the AE700's spec. In fact anything less than that is uncomfortable for me.

BTW is on low lamp and normal fan settings. It's not set on high fan mode in the secret menu. It's also in desk mode. It's well ventilated and no were near a radiator. I have cleaned the filter many time. So it should be very quiet.
This is normal. The 700 fan has four different speeds. Once the "room temperature" rises (takes about 15-30 minutes) beyond a specific threshold - the fan kicks up a notch. To compensate - I turn my A/C on to about 71 degrees - the room cools down and the fan reduces. If you switch your menu from "desk" to "ceiling" you will hear 2 of the fan speeds. Switch bulb to "high" - and do the same thing and you will hear the other two higher fan speeds. I've noticed this on three different 700's. Sending it in for service will not help. If fan noise bothers you - the new 900 has an even quieter fan. You may want to consider an upgrade.

Well, I finally got to use my PJ yesterday. I projected an image on my white wall and watched Coach Carter with the gf.

It was great and I cant wait to get my screen up so I can see the image should look like. My screen came yesterday and I'm heading out after work to get some mounting hardwar for my screen at Rona. I'm still waiting on my Samsung HD950 to arrive...should be a fun time...

This is normal. The 700 fan has four different speeds. Once the "room temperature" rises (takes about 15-30 minutes) beyond a specific threshold - the fan kicks up a notch. To compensate - I turn my A/C on to about 71 degrees - the room cools down and the fan reduces. If you switch your menu from "desk" to "ceiling" you will hear 2 of the fan speeds. Switch bulb to "high" - and do the same thing and you will hear the other two higher fan speeds. I've noticed this on three different 700's. Sending it in for service will not help. If fan noise bothers you - the new 900 has an even quieter fan. You may want to consider an upgrade.

John, thanks for reply but maybe I need to be clearer just what a problem it is. I know about the different fan speeds and I set them all to the quietest setting. Low lamp, normal fan, shelf mode. So it's fine for 10 minutes then gets MUCH louder. Not a bit louder but 3 or 4 times the volume. As the beginning its almost silent., certainly can't be heard when watching something. Then it's loud enough to be distacting, even in a noisy movie.

If I keep the room temp below 70 is fine, even after hours of use. Above that and it becomes a real probem. 70 degress doesn't seem very warm to me.

sorry for the delay...when I posted I didn't realize that using HDMI at 720p means I can't change the aspect ratio (lesson learned!). I guess I should have known. Thanks for the replies.

John, thanks for reply but maybe I need to be clearer just what a problem it is. I know about the different fan speeds and I set them all to the quietest setting. Low lamp, normal fan, shelf mode. So it's fine for 10 minutes then gets MUCH louder. Not a bit louder but 3 or 4 times the volume. As the beginning its almost silent., certainly can't be heard when watching something. Then it's loud enough to be distacting, even in a noisy movie.

If I keep the room temp below 70 is fine, even after hours of use. Above that and it becomes a real probem. 70 degress doesn't seem very warm to me.


Yes, this is a pain. I'm also in the UK and as soon as there was a hot day last summer up went the fan noise from tolerable to barely tolerable (though whether this is the same as your "much louder" I coudn't say, but it's certainly distracting). I put a thermometer next to the pj and as soon as it touched 23 degrees (that's about 72 in $US) the fan got noisier. I guess they built this machine with air-conditioning in mind--which of course nobody in the UK has. You haven't noticed this recently becuase the central heating has gone on have you? Personally I keep the pj room cool and throw a rug over my knees. It's kind of homely when you get used to it. Of course this is no good if you are using the pj in anything but a fairly dedicated room.

This isn't at all satisfying, but I would imagine that this isn't a fault as such but a consequence of the critical bulb temperature in the AE700. Panasonic won't touch it because it will be a 'characteristic' not a 'fault.' But good luck if you do complain and let me know because I get virtually the same problem. Also a little noise is better than a blown bulb or drastically shortened bulb life (there's enough problems there as it is!)

Dave

Yes, this is a pain. I'm also in the UK and as soon as there was a hot day last summer up went the fan noise from tolerable to barely tolerable (though whether this is the same as your "much louder" I coudn't say, but it's certainly distracting). I put a thermometer next to the pj and as soon as it touched 23 degrees (that's about 72 in $US) the fan got noisier. I guess they built this machine with air-conditioning in mind--which of course nobody in the UK has. You haven't noticed this recently becuase the central heating has gone on have you? Personally I keep the pj room cool and throw a rug over my knees. It's kind of homely when you get used to it. Of course this is no good if you are using the pj in anything but a fairly dedicated room.

This isn't at all satisfying, but I would imagine that this isn't a fault as such but a consequence of the critical bulb temperature in the AE700. Panasonic won't touch it because it will be a 'characteristic' not a 'fault.' But good luck if you do complain and let me know because I get virtually the same problem. Also a little noise is better than a blown bulb or drastically shortened bulb life (there's enough problems there as it is!)

Dave


Finally, someone who sees something similar. :cool: :( I don't think it's acceptable to have to be cold or uncomfortable just to watch the PJ though. I mean 23 degress (or 72) is hardly excessive is it? Even if you had air con you might well set it higher than this. I've also seen a friends TX100 operate at the same sort of temprature, it virtually silent and never increases in noise. I don't think this is a 'feature' of the AE700, I think we both have dodgy units. I would like to hear from other owners though. Most reviews (professional and on threads like this) say the AE700 is whisper quiet. That means it's whisper quiet, all the time, and at various tempratures.

I watched a movie last night - and as long as I ran my A/C and kept my room at 70 degrees (cold!) my fan stayed in it's quietest mode (silent). Once the room got up to 74 degrees - the fan kicked up a notch - but was still very quiet (acceptable) So in my case - if I want the fan to remain it's quietest - my room has to stay very cold. Same situation with my older Panny 500. However - I like it cold. My wife just uses a blanket when we watch movies.

Finally, someone who sees something similar. :cool: :( I don't think it's acceptable to have to be cold or uncomfortable just to watch the PJ though. I mean 23 degress (or 72) is hardly excessive is it? Even if you had air con you might well set it higher than this. I've also seen a friends TX100 operate at the same sort of temprature, it virtually silent and never increases in noise. I don't think this is a 'feature' of the AE700, I think we both have dodgy units. I would like to hear from other owners though. Most reviews (professional and on threads like this) say the AE700 is whisper quiet. That means it's whisper quiet, all the time, and at various tempratures.This is normal. My 700 does it, and so did my 300.

This is normal. My 700 does it, and so did my 300.

Really? :( :( :mad: :mad: :eek:

Anyone want to buy a AE700?

Make yourself a hushbox (a big box to put your projector inside, to dampen the high-frequency fan noise), or have someone make one for you. I had this issue as well, and once the fan increased it was VERY difficult to calm down. I usually just gave up, turned it off, and went to bed. Even if I opened up the door outside to cool the entire room, with temperature going down, it would still take at least 15 minutes to calm down. At least.

As winter is closing by, I can't leave the door open during the nights like I usually do during summer. Heat rises. So far, the box has worked very well, in fact I'm using low lamp and high fan - after 5 minutes or running, you can hear the fan calm down just slightly :) Which is the complete opposite of how it would run on the bookshelf. It's also alot cooler running now than it was on the bookshelf, Temp1=139 while it used to be 119, after 2 hours running.

Build a hushbox, and you'll love your AE700 again :) Here's a few pictures to get you started.

http://home.online.no/~gsboye/hushbox_02.jpg
http://home.online.no/~gsboye/hushbox_03.jpg
http://home.online.no/~gsboye/hushbox_16.jpg
http://home.online.no/~gsboye/hushbox_22.jpg
http://home.online.no/~gsboye/hushbox_23.jpg
http://home.online.no/~gsboye/hushbox_28.jpg

I'm just over 600 hours on my PT AE700 and it no longer powers on, instead it just cycles throught he warmup process. Initially it only did this when I was in standby mode for a long period, and it was powered on. A solution initailly was to power off for a few hours and then it would be fine. Now, even when it has been powered off for 24 hours, the green light flashes like normal when powering on, then turns amber, then cycles again (green ... amber...).

Mine acted up last night for the first time, with almost exactly the same symptoms Retroboy described. It's connected to the PC with a vga cable. I rebooted the pc, then the projector went from the solid blue image to displaying the windows boot screen for a couple seconds, then it just shut off like someone pulled the power cord.

A couple minutes later it started up by itself, displayed the image for a few seconds then shut down...did this several times. Then it got to the point where it wouldn't turn on at all and the amber power indicator was lit. I let it sit overnight and tried it this morning, and it seemed to work ok, though I only left it on for about 5 minutes before I had to leave. I'm guessing the ballast or power supply or whatever it is that handles the power load when the lamp fires up is going bad.

I have about 715 hours on the bulb (all on high lamp mode), and of course the 1 year warranty expired about 2 weeks ago.

Ben

I have about 715 hours on the bulb (all on high lamp mode), and of course the 1 year warranty expired about 2 weeks ago.

Ben

I have seen this in these forums before.

I would rush down to your nearest authorised repairer and cross your fingers about the warranty. If you bought it from a walk in retailer I would seek their support - I had helpful assistance from mine.

Write everything down. Times, dates who you speak to and what is discussed. I know it's a pain but it got me a brand new one in the end. And that doesn't mean I was narky about it or anything, I simply documented an incompetent process (in my case). If it is your power supply that failed - I can't remember the part number, if you need it let me know and I'll look for it - then it is a known fault in that other units have failed and that must count for something even if your two weeks out of warranty.

The symptoms you describe are like mine although I hade 1400 hours on low fan low power mode. After a botched lengthy process I eventually had my panny replaced with a brand new one - yippee. I say botched because they took to long to diagnose the actual fault and obtain a spare part in a timely manner - the power supply. I'd say if the symptoms are acurately described, the Panasonic technical knowledge base should point the repairer quickly to the faulty part (assuming it is the same fault I had).

Good luck.

Ben,
Be sure your fan is running. The 700 will shut down if the fan stops.

ted

Ben,
Be sure your fan is running. The 700 will shut down if the fan stops.

ted

The fan definitely runs.

Last night I turned it on, the lamp came on like normal and I'm looking at the windows desktop for about 1 to 2 minutes, then it just shuts off. Then it tries to turn back on, stays on for only a couple seconds then shuts down. After a couple times of that, it wouldn't turn on at all.

The lamp has a little over 700 hours on it, but still seems plenty bright. At this point my guess is that the power supply went bad.

Ben

The fan definitely runs.

......
The lamp has a little over 700 hours on it, but still seems plenty bright. At this point my guess is that the power supply went bad.

Ben

A flaky ballast board will also do this - time to call in the techs I'm afraid.
Good luck.

ted

I've found out a bit more about why my PJ gets noisy. In the service menu you can find the temperature at the air intake (temp2) and near the LCD panels (temp1). The LCD panels will gradually get hotter as the PJ is run. This is to be expected. The temp at the air intake should remain pretty constant though. It's basically your room temperature.

When I switch on the PJ temp1 is 160 and temp2 is 180. Temp1 then drops to 130 and it gets noisy (the lower the number the higher the temperature). However the temp2 drops to 160, i.e it thinks the temperature at the air intake is getting hotter. How is this possible? Has anyone else seen similar? Can anyone share what there PJ reports as being the temperature?

Really? :( :( :mad: :mad: :eek:

Anyone want to buy a AE700?


I would if you are really serious. Compared to a 4805 anything seems quiet.

I have a Panasonic PT-AE700U that I purchased 3-11 this year.

The last 24 hours the display seemed a bit darker than usual. I left the projector on while watching football today and left the room for a bit. When I returned the lamp had shut off. Upon further inspection, I found that the Lamp light on the unit was flashing red and the power indicator was orange.

Looking through the manual I show that it could be the lamp circuit board. I've powered it off, let the unit sit for an hour or two unplugged and powered it back on: same result.

The lamp no longer turns on at all and the lamp indicator flashes. The unit also makes funny popping noises.

Is this a known issue? I'm planning on calling Panasonic tomorrow. I purchased the unit online, and the closest repair facility is 160 miles away.

Any thoughts or advice before I contact tech support on how to proceed?

Thanks!

I bought mine the beginning of June. At 432 hours on the bulb my AE700 went dim and then went almost completely dark. The lamp light never came on but I assume the lamp was going bad and replaced it. Don't know what the popping noises are, maybe the iris? If you purchased with Visa platinum your warranty period is doubled. Try going through them.

The fan definitely runs.

Last night I turned it on, the lamp came on like normal and I'm looking at the windows desktop for about 1 to 2 minutes, then it just shuts off. Then it tries to turn back on, stays on for only a couple seconds then shuts down. After a couple times of that, it wouldn't turn on at all.

The lamp has a little over 700 hours on it, but still seems plenty bright. At this point my guess is that the power supply went bad.

Ben

Similar problem here, though mine was connected to a dvd player via hdmi. Suddenly stopped in the middle of the movie, as if someone had pulled the power plug --> no fan, lamp or power lights. The top felt pretty hot. Restarted on its own about 10 minutes later, stayed on for about 5 minutes and then another shut down. About 380 hours on the lamp, purchased in March, 2005.

Calling Panny tomorrow. Bummer...

Similar problem here, though mine was connected to a dvd player via hdmi. Suddenly stopped in the middle of the movie, as if someone had pulled the power plug --> no fan, lamp or power lights. The top felt pretty hot. Restarted on its own about 10 minutes later, stayed on for about 5 minutes and then another shut down. About 380 hours on the lamp, purchased in March, 2005.

Calling Panny tomorrow. Bummer...

I too bought mine in March 2005. Have 495 hours on the lamp (all low-power mode) and when I turned it on last night it came on extremely dim. This is the first time it has happened. Tried turning off and unplugging, then checked all the settings, but no change. I did not have time to mess with it last night, but after work tonight I guess I am going to have to assess...

I too bought mine in March 2005. Have 495 hours on the lamp (all low-power mode) and when I turned it on last night it came on extremely dim. This is the first time it has happened. Tried turning off and unplugging, then checked all the settings, but no change. I did not have time to mess with it last night, but after work tonight I guess I am going to have to assess...

I'm at 435 hours (since July)--you got me worried. But knowing this problem I started a bulb fund first off. If it lasts to 500 then I'm more than halfway there.

Dave

Does the panny ae700 only operate at 60hz through HDMI?

Here are the results of a recent experment:

With respect to those running the oppo with an ae700/ae900 and using PAL discs who are wondering about 2:2 cadence and 50/60Hz--I've been trying a few things on my ae700.

1) I found a scene on a PAL disc which pans across fixed fine writing. If I pause on any single frame the writing is clear, but if I let the pan run it blurs and judders slightly This seems like a good test scene. It is equally blurry in 576p, 720p and 1080i.

2) I also checked out the skyscrapers on the PAL DVE. They judder very slightly on all settings. Worse on 576p, maybe slightly the smoothest on 1080i--but with a loss of other image qualities. 720p was the best overall performer.

3) I attached the ae700 to my PC DVI-HDMI running zoomplayer on a fairly basic video card (this maybe the downfall of what follows). I used reclock to test various framerates. No matter what framerate I chose (I tested auto, 24, 25 and 30) the same thing happened to the image--i.e., the words were blurry. Also, according to reclock, the ae700 stayed at 60Hz (or 59.664, to be precise) no matter what and I couldn't change the frequency using anything else either.

4) I rehooked up my old progscan sony to the ae700 through component. If you go into the secret menu and look at selfcheck then the frequencies are Hor. 31.3 and vertical 50.14 (or there abouts), which suggests that it has a 50 Hz frame rate (These figures do not appear on the HDMI setting which is suggestive.) But the image of the words is certainly no less blurry, nor are the sky scrapers in the pan shot any less juddery that on 576p on the oppo.

My tentative conclusions: a) the ae700 is a pretty blurry pj (but beautifful in so many other ways). b) the ae700 only runs at 60hz off of HDMI.

It's just another one of those things, like aspect ratio, which lock out over HDMI. I doubt anything can be done about it. It's likely that the same thing is occurring to the ae900. As the vast majority of users and especially reviewers live in NTSC land it makes no odds to them and thus doesn't get reported. The picture is just so much better even so that maybe it makes no odds? The old sony looked very flat--though admittedly I didn't recalibrate for pq as that wasn't my aim.

Does anybody who knows more about these things have any comments?

Dave

Another update on my "lamp indicator" flashing red. I took out the bulb and sure enough, it was toast. $350 later, I've got a new bulb and everything is good.

Here's what sucks, I checked the hours: 407! I'm just so disappointed I can't stand it. I had the Iris set to yes, the picture at normal and the fan set to normal.

I guess I'd be happy if I got at least 1000 hours out of the thing, but this is stupid.

Anyway, the next projector I purchase won't be a Panny.

1035 hours or so on mine, no flashing or anything funky

wish blacks were better and wish it was a little brighter, oh well, next one

that's my 2nd bulb btw, first one was crappy, dimmed at like 200 hours, had it replaced at 800 after going back and forth with local rep. it may be perception, but i'm pretty sure that this bulb at 1035 is brighter than my first bulb at 200 hours.

I just called Panny and they confirmed the bulb warranty as 90 days or 500 hours. I don't have 500 hours yet, but since I bought in March, they get me for the 90 days... Strange. If you used 500 hours in three months that would be like...

Ah who cares - the bulbs they shipped with these (at those that were manufactured in early 2005) were defective or at least not as hearty as they intended. Unless you are willing to fight with them you are out of luck. No wonder we got a $200 rebate - they likely knew we would be paying it back to them + more in a few months...

Did I mention these bulbs are backordered almost everywhere? Panasonic itself quoted sometime in January to be able to ship me a replacement...

Ok, so I picked up a set of loaner component cables last night and aligned everything and turned on the projector -- WOW. It was freakin' HUGE. My girlfriend was in another room and could hear me laughing and applauding my new-found friend (the AE700). I was itching to just watch a movie so I plunked in Monsters Inc. It looked pretty good so I can't wait to start playing around and tweaking everything. During a small break, I took a second to flip through the menu and noticed that in the Signal Mode showed 525. I was expecting to see 720. I'm using an older Sony interlaced DVD player. I will admit to knowing nothing about the different signals. Should the projector be displaying 720 or does it always work on that, but display different depending on what the DVD player does. Help the uninitiated. I promise to stop bothering you soon :) I'll post a screenshot in appreciation. I know how everyone loves to hate them.

The signal mode is showing what signal level is being input to the PJ

Ok, that's what I was hoping you'd say. That part now makes more sense. Thanks.
So the second part, is the projector actually showing a 720 signal? Does it automatically upconvert it?

So the second part, is the projector actually showing a 720 signal? Does it automatically upconvert it?

Yes - all fixed pixel devices scale to their native rez regardless of what it is being fed.

Enjoy your new toy and don't ignore your girlfirend, ;)

ted

Similar problem here, though mine was connected to a dvd player via hdmi. Suddenly stopped in the middle of the movie, as if someone had pulled the power plug --> no fan, lamp or power lights. The top felt pretty hot. Restarted on its own about 10 minutes later, stayed on for about 5 minutes and then another shut down. About 380 hours on the lamp, purchased in March, 2005.

Calling Panny tomorrow. Bummer...

Sorry to hear that, but luckily yours is still under warranty. Mine decided to croak a couple weeks after the warranty expired. :( It's in the shop now and I'm waiting to hear from them what the diagnosis is, and how much the repair is going to cost me.

After a day or two, mine got to the point where the standby led light would not even light up when I turned the power switch on. Is yours the same way?

Ben

Scary about the bulbs being backordered everywhere!
I am at over a year with 1400 hours on my first bulb. Knocking wood!!!
I hope this thing lasts until January.

Scary about the bulbs being backordered everywhere!
I am at over a year with 1400 hours on my first bulb. Knocking wood!!!
I hope this thing lasts until January.

Its all those bulbs popping at the 500 hr mark. :eek:

ted

Similar problem here, though mine was connected to a dvd player via hdmi. Suddenly stopped in the middle of the movie, as if someone had pulled the power plug --> no fan, lamp or power lights. The top felt pretty hot. Restarted on its own about 10 minutes later, stayed on for about 5 minutes and then another shut down. About 380 hours on the lamp, purchased in March, 2005.

Calling Panny tomorrow. Bummer...
I also had this occur at around 300hrs. Turns out it was a bad power module. Luckily for me it was still under warranty.

Ted
Do you think I'm over the hump? Of course I know the bulb will goeventually, but perhaps I got a "normal" bulb (or not normal) and other associated components are not defective. It seems that generally power supplies and things like that fail early if defective.

Ted
Do you think I'm over the hump? Of course I know the bulb will goeventually, but perhaps I got a "normal" bulb (or not normal) and other associated components are not defective. It seems that generally power supplies and things like that fail early if defective.

Gee wish I knew enough to say. I tend to believe the rumour there was a bad shipment of bulbs used initially. Panasonic was quite willing to replace my initial bulb though I was beyond the 90 day 500 hr mark. This *might* have been public relations - perhaps with good cause.

My first bulb lost 50% of its lumens at about the 200 hr mark. I interpreted this as the "half-life" mark, not knowing (until I explored it further) that a bulb is getting set to die at about that point. A lamp is expected to lose about 30 percent after a few hundred hours but nearly twice that is unacceptable. My second bulb is now beyond the 600 hr mark and though it has lost some power, it is considerably better than the last.

Here in Canada, a bulb is about $400 U.S. If I compare it to a car (being a downtown dweller I gave up my car a few years ago) which I used to use about 2 to 3 hrs a day for work treks mostly. At $400 every 500 hrs, a bulb is considerably cheaper than even the Insurance I used to pay.

I am aware this may be, at best, a naive analogy but I derive considerably more pleasure from the approximately 3 hours a day usage from my pj than I did from my vehicle usage, which was mostly utilitarian. So for me, though I would not be happy at having to purchase a new bulb, I plan to do so in about 3 months and put this one aside as a back-up. Simplistic I suppose, but for me it is the maintenance cost I pay for this rarefied hobby rather than the thousands I used to pay just to stay on the road.

So, I sure don't have any answers - only an anecdote. Unfortunately a lamp can blow at any time - its the nature of the tech and there are too many variables. I hope you have many more hours of of joyful viewing

ted

Thanks for your thoughts, Ted.
I have no problem buying a new bulb every year or so. It does seem like a small price to pay for the nice big screen enjoyment we get. Thanks for putting it all in perspective.

I've just had my bulb die at 850 hours, all on low power. Sanyo Z4 here I come.

Problems:

1. Bowing - With a display of 64W/36H, and projecting with no lens shift, the bottom of the screen bows up in the center 1/8 inch (as compared to the ends), and the top bows down between 1/16 and 1/8 inch in the center. When I put the projector in its fixed location above and behind couch and use the lend shift to project down (using about 3/4 of the shift), the top flattens out, the bottom bows up about 3/16 inch, and the center line bows up about 1/16 inch.

2. Color Shift - With white screen displayed, left side of the screen has a green tint and the right side has a red tint.

Background:

Previously serviced under warranty -- optical block replaced. Bowing and color shift only noticed since projector serviced.

Questions:

Is the bowing a lens alignment problem? If so, could the color shift also be a lens alignment problem? Could both have resulted from the projector being taken apart and reassembled to replace the optical block?

The projector is still under warranty. Should I push for a replacement at this point, or accept another service fix (which requires driving to a service center about a half hour away)?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Quote:

"2. Color Shift - With white screen displayed, left side of the screen has a green tint and the right side has a red tint."

This is normal. All 700's have this problem (I've seen many). Sole reason I may up-grade to a 900 someday. The http://www.cine4home.de/ website explains this anomaly. Use babblefish to translate.

Thanks, John.

For those interested, the discussion of Farbwolkenbildung, or "shading," can be found in Section 3.10 of both the AE900 and AE700 reviews on cine4home.

From the discussion there, I gather that some level of shading is to be expected (especially red), but I'm wondering if the degree on my projector is beyond normal. Not only can the green and red be seen on a white screen, the shading can be noticed when projecting red (one side darker), green (one side darker), and black (shading both sides). [I did not notice it when projecting a blue screen.]

As a result, it won't be an issue solely during B&W films, but color films as well. (I've had two people confirm seeing it in color films in addition to myself). I don't want to overstate the case -- I suspect many casual viewers would not notice the shading unless pointed out, and it isn't readily apparent in many color scenes -- but it seems more pronounced than I would expect for a new product (less than 160 hours).

When combined with the bowing, as well as the earlier problem which required servicing, I'm wondering if I should seek a replacement.

Speaking of the bowing, anyone have thoughts on that?

Thanks.

Speaking of the bowing, anyone have thoughts on that?

Thanks.

Be sure that the unit is plumb/level and square to the screen.

ted

Be sure that the unit is plumb/level and square to the screen.

ted

Double checked in two different rooms projecting against two different surfaces. Used a level and measured to make sure projector was square.

In both locations (one involving a screen, the other a white wall), the projector had a total bow in the center of between 3/16 and 1/4 inch at 36H x 64W.

As described above, the bow manifests itself in different places depending on how the lens is shifted. Shifted up, bow at the top, level on bottom. Shifted down, bow at the bottom, level at top. No shift, bow at top and bottom.

Thanks.

I've had my panny 700 now for just over a month and I've searched and read every thread I could think of to find a solution to my motion blur problem, but it continues. This darn little pj puts out such a great picture, but every time a person moves it blurs. It happens every time regardless of whether I'm watching DVD's or Cable-HD. Sports is a problem too.

What am I talking about? If somebody is sitting down and gets up their face blurs.

If they are just talking on the phone and move their head - motion blur.

It doesn't take much movement from a person and I see lots of motion blur.

Anybody Got ideas?

G

I've had my panny 700 now for just over a month and I've searched and read every thread I could think of to find a solution to my motion blur problem, but it continues. This darn little pj puts out such a great picture, but every time a person moves it blurs. It happens every time regardless of whether I'm watching DVD's or Cable-HD. Sports is a problem too.

What am I talking about? If somebody is sitting down and gets up their face blurs.

If they are just talking on the phone and move their head - motion blur.

It doesn't take much movement from a person and I see lots of motion blur.

Anybody Got ideas?

G

It sounds to me what you are reacting to is what is referred to as "peek a boo" scanlines which happens when the pixel structure suddenly becomes apparent. It happens primarily with vertical movement wherein you see horizontal lines. The Panasonic does a good job at hiding the panel structure horizontally but not as good vertically - plus our eyes are more sensitive vertically. I'd be surprised if you saw it on a pj with more prominent panel structure.

Now that you are accustomed to it and it annoys you, unfortunately you see it every time it occurs.

Do you sit closer than 1.5?
Can you borrow an upscaling DVD player to see if better scaling helps - the 700's scaling is overrated in my opinion.
Have you tried a pixel mapped HTPC?
Is your transport HDMI?

Though it is of no help reviewers have suggested the 900 is better in this regard.

ted

I've had my panny 700 now for just over a month and I've searched and read every thread I could think of to find a solution to my motion blur problem, but it continues. This darn little pj puts out such a great picture, but every time a person moves it blurs. It happens every time regardless of whether I'm watching DVD's or Cable-HD. Sports is a problem too.

What am I talking about? If somebody is sitting down and gets up their face blurs.

If they are just talking on the phone and move their head - motion blur.

It doesn't take much movement from a person and I see lots of motion blur.

Anybody Got ideas?

G
This just doesn't seem normal. I never noticed any motion blur on my old Panny 500 nor my current 700 nor the new 900. And I'm specifically looking for it. I do see VB, FPN, shading and peek-a-booos. I'm usually very sensitive to artifacts. Rainbows on DLP's hit me over the head like a sledge hammer. Now - I've read of others who have seen motion blur - but not me. Maybe distance to screen has something to do with it. I sit pretty far back at 2.5X screen widths.

Thanks, John.

For those interested, the discussion of Farbwolkenbildung, or "shading," can be found in Section 3.10 of both the AE900 and AE700 reviews on cine4home.

From the discussion there, I gather that some level of shading is to be expected (especially red), but I'm wondering if the degree on my projector is beyond normal. Not only can the green and red be seen on a white screen, the shading can be noticed when projecting red (one side darker), green (one side darker), and black (shading both sides). [I did not notice it when projecting a blue screen.]

As a result, it won't be an issue solely during B&W films, but color films as well. (I've had two people confirm seeing it in color films in addition to myself). I don't want to overstate the case -- I suspect many casual viewers would not notice the shading unless pointed out, and it isn't readily apparent in many color scenes -- but it seems more pronounced than I would expect for a new product (less than 160 hours).

When combined with the bowing, as well as the earlier problem which required servicing, I'm wondering if I should seek a replacement.

Speaking of the bowing, anyone have thoughts on that?

Thanks.
If replacement is an option - I sure would be seeking it.
My 700 has no shading visible on solid color screens.
I do have a tiny bit of bowing - which appears to be caused by the lens shift. But it's minor and I can live with it. I just over scan a hair at the bottom. It's not noticeable at all during viewing.

This just doesn't seem normal. I never noticed any motion blur on my old Panny 500 nor my current 700 nor the new 900. And I'm specifically looking for it. I do see VB, FPN, shading and peek-a-booos. I'm usually very sensitive to artifacts. Rainbows on DLP's hit me over the head like a sledge hammer. Now - I've read of others who have seen motion blur - but not me. Maybe distance to screen has something to do with it. I sit pretty far back at 2.5X screen widths.


I'm convinced I have a defective PJ. In addition to reading all threads I've done everthing I can think of to resolve the problem. I've changed component cables, STB, distance from screen, screen size, DVD players(progressive and interlace), to voodoo magic and nothing has worked.
I'm currently working with my seller to purchase the ae900. I've only heard of a few others that have experienced this too. VB is one thing, but motion blur is too much to swollow.
Gman

I'm convinced I have a defective PJ. In addition to reading all threads I've done everthing I can think of to resolve the problem. I've changed component cables, STB, distance from screen, screen size, DVD players(progressive and interlace), to voodoo magic and nothing has worked.
I'm currently working with my seller to purchase the ae900. I've only heard of a few others that have experienced this too. VB is one thing, but motion blur is too much to swollow.
Gman


I guess if you've been through all the voodoo you done this. But I'll ask anyway. Have you made sure that noise-reduction is turned off on the ae700 and on your player--indeed, have you checked that all so called image enhancement features are set to off?

If that's the case then you probably to have a problem unit. On my 700 I certainly notice some blurring but it's only in medium to fast moving pans or if someone walks quickly accross the screen. Not someone turning their head or getting up from a chair. These kinds of things are rendered beautifully. Often what you see as blurry is actually encoded as a blur into the DVD itself, as a limitation of the SD format, but you see this on HD too.

Though your experience does appear to be extreme, the ae700 probaly isn't the fastest display in the West. There was a rash of comment on blurring on this thread about a month ago and most people see it so some extent. I still think that this is pretty primitive technology, espeically if you compare the price of a pj with a TV of similar screen sizer/pq quality.

Make sure you take some of the discs that are a problem on the 700 along to the show room when you try the 900.

Dave

how many follow the shutdown procedure?

I happen to follow it religiously, but I am getting the impression many are skipping it, and it could explain some premature bulb failure issues

I cannot understand how any anyone can properly test an AE700u w/o running a clean HD 720p/1080i broadcast source signal through it?

Its a native 720p HD projector, and no amount of "upscaling" will equal native 720p nor will it test the AE700u's optimal capabilities, and if anything its just muddles up the process, because alot of the time with a new projector one cannot tell whether its the DVD player or the projector

Now if someone lives in Australia or the UK I guess that might explain it, however it doesn't make any sense for the USA where even free HD signals abound and used OTA boxes are virtually being given away on ebayl - especially when many new owners are now being given 10 hrs use maximmum to get a no-strings refund in case its defective

HD-DVD and Blue-ray should simply everything for the DVD-only crowd I hope

New owners should pre- arrange for a clean HD signal to make sure it is not defective - and save yourself alot of trouble

Quote:

"2. Color Shift - With white screen displayed, left side of the screen has a green tint and the right side has a red tint."

This is normal. All 700's have this problem (I've seen many). Sole reason I may up-grade to a 900 someday. The http://www.cine4home.de/ website explains this anomaly. Use babblefish to translate.

Starting to hear reports from 900 owners who are experiencing this same problem(see 900 thread). So I may not be upgrading to a 900 someday afterall.

how many follow the shutdown procedure?

I happen to follow it religiously, but I am getting the impression many are skipping it, and it could explain some premature bulb failure issues

I always allow the PJ to cool down through its internal cycle. Where are you getting the impression that many are skipping this end of viewing procedure?

100% of the time my PJ cools through the cycle.
95% of the time I then cut power to the unit (I built in a wall switch)

0% problems so far - about 600 hours on bulb.

Crossing fingers.

I follow the shutdown 100% and leave it off minimum 30 mins before starting again. 625 hours of low lamp heaven.

how many follow the shutdown procedure?

I happen to follow it religiously, but I am getting the impression many are skipping it, and it could explain some premature bulb failure issues

I used too - after about 700 hrs (about 200 on current lamp) I stopped. VB has al but disappeared on startup. Currently about 600 hrs on this bulb.

ted

Sorry to hear that, but luckily yours is still under warranty. Mine decided to croak a couple weeks after the warranty expired. :( It's in the shop now and I'm waiting to hear from them what the diagnosis is, and how much the repair is going to cost me.

After a day or two, mine got to the point where the standby led light would not even light up when I turned the power switch on. Is yours the same way?

Ben


Got tied up with work; just now getting back to the panny. Still turns on as usual; ran it for the first time in a week last night for an hour before turning it off. Didn't want to chance another abrupt shutdown. I'm shipping it off tonight for the warranty repair if I get home in time. Hopefully yours is back up and running by now.

I just hooked up my Panny after 3 months of construction work. Just bought new house and started media room 2 weeks later. Priorities :)

Anyway, On the image there is a edge around the picture that a appears to be a dull light color. In other words, the image of the film does not extend to the total picture dimensions. There is about a 1-2" edge. What is this? I don't remember this on my 75U.

I also had this occur at around 300hrs. Turns out it was a bad power module. Luckily for me it was still under warranty.

Thanks for the heads up on the power module. The repair shop was suggesting over the phone that it could be the bulb, but the total shutdown, including no led lights, leads me to believe that it's also a power issue.

Marty D.
Set overscan in the menu? Are they greyish bars or noisey?

where is the over scan located? Is it labled OSD, if so on or off doesn't seem to make a difference...

Thanks for the heads up on the power module. The repair shop was suggesting over the phone that it could be the bulb, but the total shutdown, including no led lights, leads me to believe that it's also a power issue.

Mine is still in the shop. I talked to them today and they said it needs a new power module, which is what I expected. I don't know yet though if that part will be back ordered, or if its something that the repair shop can get relatively quickly. I'll find out next week.

Ben

Marty D.
Rereading your original post, 1" to 2"? Have you zoomed in? The question seems wierd from a projector point of view. You can't resize to eliminate this?

Overscan is in the Options "secret" menu.
Select options and hold down select for 7 seconds. Check "HD overscan".
This is where you can also adjust the flicker tweak.

Ohh k, here's my latest news. I had tried the factory settings for a couple movies first. Then I tried a few of the settings of other member's in here, then I finally got around to running Avia. It really did make a huge difference. I had my doubts going into it because on my old 36" tv, I found it just too dark, but on this....wow, great difference and way better image quality now. The contrast is stronger. The saturation is definitely better. AVIA made my night. So, as I had promised, here's a screenshot. Take it for what it's worth, but hey, at least they're fun to look at.

http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/getson/screenshot1.jpg

Oh, actually posting this reminded me. Notice how there's a slight bow on the top and bottom of the image. Is there a way to correct that?? I'm probably the only one that would notice it, but you all know how it is. I had to use the keystone correction to -3. Would that have something to do with it?

Oh, actually posting this reminded me. Notice how there's a slight bow on the top and bottom of the image. Is there a way to correct that?? I'm probably the only one that would notice it, but you all know how it is. I had to use the keystone correction to -3. Would that have something to do with it?

KEYSTONE is absolutely unhealthy for PQ - it introduces artifacts. Use it only as a desperate act of last resort. :) Self flaglellation is likely a better course of action

Lens shift will introduce very slight geometry errors particularly at the extremes of the shift. If you are using a short throw then because the image is using a larger part of the lens again slight geometry errors will occur with large screens. Shorter Focal Length = slight pincushioning. Move the projector further back if possible, but this will reduce lumens as these lenses are not constant aperture. Don't forget the light has further to travel on the edges of the image than the centre so astigmatism can also be an issue.

Lenses at this level are where a manufacturer might save a dollar - certainly not photographic quality.

The simplest way to correct this is masking.

ted

KEYSTONE is absolutely unhealthy for PQ - it introduces artifacts. Use it only as a desperate act of last resort. :) Self flaglellation is likely a better course of action

Lens shift will introduce very slight geometry errors particularly at the extremes of the shift. If you are using a short throw then because the image is using a larger part of the lens again slight geometry errors will occur with large screens. Shorter Focal Length = slight pincushioning. Move the projector further back if possible, but this will reduce lumens as these lenses are not constant aperture. Don't forget the light has further to travel on the edges of the image than the centre so astigmatism can also be an issue.

Lenses at this level are where a manufacturer might save a dollar - certainly not photographic quality.

The simplest way to correct this is masking.

ted

I wouldn't want to add anything to Ted's point--he knows--but the simplest way to to correct this is tolerance. I have my 700 right above my head, so it's at the top of it's lens shift range. This does cause a very slight bow at the bottom of the picture. I have never, never noticed this whilst watching a film. I never will.

Dave

Excellent. Thanks guys. It's not bothersome at all, I was just curious. Still lovin' every minute of it!

i've tried to read some posts but reading the entire thread is insane.. can someone help me out here with 2 small questions...
1) can't post the image link right now, but my AE700 cuts off the top few lines of the screen... any ideas? for example, viewing a full size Window will cut off the screen up until the last line of the windows "X" or so (exit)
2) doing the test with white background and white crosshairs, i see slight offset in the colors -- red on top and blue on bottom, maybe 1 or 2 lines off where it should be. how can this be fixed?

i've tried to read some posts but reading the entire thread is insane.. can someone help me out here with 2 small questions...
1) can't post the image link right now, but my AE700 cuts off the top few lines of the screen... any ideas? for example, viewing a full size Window will cut off the screen up until the last line of the windows "X" or so (exit)
2) doing the test with white background and white crosshairs, i see slight offset in the colors -- red on top and blue on bottom, maybe 1 or 2 lines off where it should be. how can this be fixed?

1) You haven't fully explained your set up, but PC cropping is "normal" over the HDMI input.

2) Maybe a convergence issue--I've no idea what to do about that, but my own feeling is, again, a very slight problem here is fairly "normal" and won't effect viewing pleasure unless you've got your nose to the scree (in which case your shadow will be more of a problem).

Dave

1) You haven't fully explained your set up, but PC cropping is "normal" over the HDMI input.

2) Maybe a convergence issue--I've no idea what to do about that, but my own feeling is, again, a very slight problem here is fairly "normal" and won't effect viewing pleasure unless you've got your nose to the scree (in which case your shadow will be more of a problem).

Dave
1) yep, the pj is connected via HDMI (DVI) to my PC.
2) true, its only visible when i was that close, and i just wanted to know if its normal or should i be calling support.

another q... is the only way to get a firmware update to go to a repair shop?

thanks.

1) yep, the pj is connected via HDMI (DVI) to my PC.
2) true, its only visible when i was that close, and i just wanted to know if its normal or should i be calling support.

another q... is the only way to get a firmware update to go to a repair shop?

thanks.
Firmware updating is a very complex procedure. I sent my 700 into Heartland for the firmware upgrade (1.07).

I always allow the PJ to cool down through its internal cycle. Where are you getting the impression that many are skipping this end of viewing procedure?

The impression came up because: whenever I've heard of someone complaining about premature bulb failure, I don't recall hearing them describiing their procedure for the shutdown

It would seem to me that it would be natural that once someone experiences premature bulb failure, to then post in detail the precise procedure they follow - as a doublecheck to make sure they are doing nothing wrong

Lot of AE700u's were sold, more than any other consumer front projector HD in history I believe, and its possible some are just turning that power switch off

My bulb failed after 320 hours, and I always used the correct shutdown procedure (power off using the remote, let fan run until it shuts off). I rarely turned on the projector more than once a day, and never less than an hour after the previous shutdown.

Firmware updating is a very complex procedure. I sent my 700 into Heartland for the firmware upgrade (1.07).

Hey this is kinda like old home week - a gathering of the 700 clan - same complaints I see. We could share war stories. ;)

Gosh, how I hate to disagree with my friends, :o - gotta on this one though.

Turnaround for a firmware upgrade shouldn't be more than about an hour or two - most of it spent opening the case, patching an RS232 cable to the mainboard via the interface adaptor that Panasonic has in their kit and burning the EPROM. Not a whole lot different from upgrading your PC BIOS. The hardest part is the case mechanics.

loves yah John,
ted

Hey All!

I have a question for you ae700 users using the oppo dvd player. Does the ae700 when receiving a 720 p signal from the oppo, still cop 1.85 aspect dvd's? I actually prefer the cropping/zooming to the small black bars, and I noticed in my own situation, that my ae700 displaying signals from my pc showed 1.85 with the bars, while component 480p from my dvd player did not. If the oppo does not crop/zoom the 1.85 stuff, I guess that will be the deal breaker for me.

Thanks

Hey All!

I have a question for you ae700 users using the oppo dvd player. Does the ae700 when receiving a 720 p signal from the oppo, still cop 1.85 aspect dvd's? I actually prefer the cropping/zooming to the small black bars, and I noticed in my own situation, that my ae700 displaying signals from my pc showed 1.85 with the bars, while component 480p from my dvd player did not. If the oppo does not crop/zoom the 1.85 stuff, I guess that will be the deal breaker for me.

Thanks


The oppo plays 1:1.85 through the ae700 with bars top and bottom: it's as it should do, not as you want it. There is no overscan with this combo, just 4 pixels are lost from the bottom of the image (according to DVE).

This combo is dynamite (slight MB not withstanding).

As is usual with HDMI/DVI in terms of aspect ratio you get exactly what's encoded on the DVD. Which is really what you should want. Component distorts the image.

Dave

Thinking about getting AE700. AE900 is 500 b more for me and i will have to wait for it. Main use will be movies from dvd, PS2, PC and PS3 games and BR-DVD. I know about PC HDMI cropping issue, but i will use VGA, so i will be ok I think. I wonder if this cropping HDMI issue will show its face with PS3 or BR-DVD?

Hey All!

I have a question for you ae700 users using the oppo dvd player. Does the ae700 when receiving a 720 p signal from the oppo, still cop 1.85 aspect dvd's? I actually prefer the cropping/zooming to the small black bars, and I noticed in my own situation, that my ae700 displaying signals from my pc showed 1.85 with the bars, while component 480p from my dvd player did not. If the oppo does not crop/zoom the 1.85 stuff, I guess that will be the deal breaker for me.

Thanks

The 700 has *always* cropped its HDMI input. It *is* mapped 1:1 as Dave has indicated, but it is also cropped. Is it possible this what you are referring to?

There is no fix for this, short of upgrading to the 900. It will happen regardless of which device you patch into the HDMI input. With later firmware there is an Overscan option, but you do lose some content.

Is it really worth not using the OPPO - it has proven benefits vs the 700's scaler.

ted

I'm writing in this forum because I hadn't seen anyone post this issue.

Problem:
After replacing my first bulb after 1 year and 4 months (about 2996 hours), I noticed quite a bit of dust in the unit. So, being somewhat around the block about cleaning computers out, got the ol' air can out and blew a lot of the dust out of the unit. Unknown to me, that was not a wise decision.

After I replaced the lamp and hooked it back up, I noticed a considerable ghosting - mostly when something white would show in the screen. It reminded me of watching a wedding video because of the nice whiteish glow that seem to be on all viewing modes. Nothing I could do through the menus seem to fix the issue. What I did notice, however, was quite a bit of dust in the lens.

Now, having a lot of dust in the lens, according to these forums, shouldn't make a difference. I beg to differ as this ended up being the primary reason why the ghosting effect was occurring.

Service Manual:
Now, maybe I wasn't resourceful enough to find a free copy of the service manual for the PT-AE700U, but I found it for sale on the web for $7.95. So, spent the dough and reviewed the manual. It was somewhat useful as I didn't know about the hidden menu item and it also came in handy for the following procedure.

Solution:
Since my unit was well out of warranty, I didn't have too much grief doing the following procedure. However, I must caution you that there are extremely delicate parts inside the projector and you must take great care in doing this.

After several attempts on opening the case, I finally found the right combination.

1. Remove the Shift Lever (the little stem that moves the lens around). You will find a screw behind the little white cap. Turn the screw clockwise to remove. That will make it easier to remove the outer casing.
2. Unscrew all the bottom screws - there are 7 of them.
3. Remove the outer casing carefully.
4. Inside, you will need to remove the APC board. This is where the service manual comes in handy. I would advise looking there for instructions. You will have to undo the three ribbon cables (they talk to the LCD Unit) from the motherboard. You will see tiny black locks that you have to slide to get the cable to come out. Don't worry, putting them back in was a breeze. You also have to unhook a couple of other tiny cables as well. Once that is done, just move the board upside down away from the lens to the other side of the unit.
5. Behind the lens, you will see the LCD unit that has three cables attached to it. This is the LCD part of the unit. There are two screws on top that you can undo. The entire unit comes out. This is where I ended up spending most of the time cleaning.
6. First, the lens. There is a back section of the lens which is very easy to get to. I would get a extremely soft cloth (no paper) to wipe the lens. A can of air is helpful AFTER you wipe the lens. Don't use anything wet, alcohol, or any other solvent to clean it. You're just removing dust, not stains.
7. On the LCD unit, you will find three tiny little LCD screens. Do the same as step 6. Again, I can't caution you enough to be extremely careful and extremely gentle.
8. If you look on the LCD unit (that has the three ribbons), you will see glass where the light goes through the LCD screens. This is where you have to be creative - because you want to get in between the glass. You may find a build-up of dust in there (as I did). I ended using a very soft and very thin material (somewhat like you'll find in a t-shirt). Using a small toothpick, I was able to slide the cloth between the glass. Again, do step 6.
9. Inside the unit, you will see where the mirrors reflect light from the lamp into the three sections of the LCD unit. Again, do step 6 on each of the glass sections.
10. Replace the LCD unit, the motherboard, the case, etc.

Hopefully you find this useful. It made a significant difference to the mess I made myself.

Again, if you aren't comfortable with electronics, I would advise you just sending it in to Panasonic or some other service center. However, I don't know if they perform cleanings like this or not.

In the end, it makes sense. If you have a lot of dust build-up, when a bright white is projected, its going to "light-up" the dust on the several pieces of glass, LCD screens, and inside the lens.

Has anyone else had to do this?

John

Hi. I've been loving my 700 for a year with 900 hours of use. I just bought anew bulb and I'm going to have a go at calibrating again.

I bought into the filter idea and so I've calibrated using avia starting with the brad bissel settings. I've been very happy with the results.

I run my xbox 360 via the vga input and I find I can't calibrate colour when vga is being used. Is there any way to adjust colour via vga or do I have to remove my filter when I use vga?

Thanks

Hi. I've been loving my 700 for a year with 900 hours of use. I just bought anew bulb and I'm going to have a go at calibrating again.

I bought into the filter idea and so I've calibrated using avia starting with the brad bissel settings. I've been very happy with the results.

I run my xbox 360 via the vga input and I find I can't calibrate colour when vga is being used. Is there any way to adjust colour via vga or do I have to remove my filter when I use vga?

Thanks

I assume there is no video game called Bars & Tone or Chroma Check? ;)

Doesn't the XBOX play DVD's? If so you should be able to run AVIA or DVE just fine.

Can you hook up a PC and play AVIA or DVE through a media player of some sort?
I would think the XBOX settings are probably standard PC. Just calibrate brightness/Contrast for black at PC level 0 rather than 16 which is Studio Video black.

ted

How do you set up the AE700 to have two different calibrations and can they automatically switch if the input signal switches? I have calibrated the 700 with my HTPC over the HDMI link. Periodically I want to use the DVD player outputing component to the 700. The calibrations are then way off. Can I set it up so that the 700 automatically switches to a different calibration when the different inputs are used? i.e. one cal set for HDMI and a different one for component input

How do you set up the AE700 to have two different calibrations and can they automatically switch if the input signal switches? I have calibrated the 700 with my HTPC over the HDMI link. Periodically I want to use the DVD player outputing component to the 700. The calibrations are then way off. Can I set it up so that the 700 automatically switches to a different calibration when the different inputs are used? i.e. one cal set for HDMI and a different one for component input

Each input has its own calibration settings. Once you change a setting then it is stored in non-volitle RAM. That setting will remain when you switch inputs. If you wish you can store that setting to one of three memory settings for each input then live a little.

So go right ahead and adjust your component settings as you wish, it will not affect the HDMI setup. When you come back to it, those settings will still be there.

Ya got no Manual? :)

ted

I assume there is no video game called Bars & Tone or Chroma Check?

Doesn't the XBOX play DVD's? If so you should be able to run AVIA or DVE just fine.

Can you hook up a PC and play AVIA or DVE through a media player of some sort?
I would think the XBOX settings are probably standard PC. Just calibrate brightness/Contrast for black at PC level 0 rather than 16 which is Studio Video black.

ted

I can show the calibration screens but I don't have colour control. The menu spots are greyed out. I'm in 720 WIDE mode according to the panasonic menu. I can only adjust contrast and brightness.

I have a few resolutions that I can send to the projector so I'll see if I get colour control with any of those.

I can show the calibration screens but I don't have colour control. The menu spots are greyed out. I'm in 720 WIDE mode according to the panasonic menu. I can only adjust contrast and brightness.

I have a few resolutions that I can send to the projector so I'll see if I get colour control with any of those.

Brad,

I looked at my 700 tonight when I came home. Its hooked up over HDMI, being driven by a NVidia 6600GT at 1280 x 720. The menu reports 750/60p (never understood these menu references because I *know the panel is 720p.) I've complete access to the PICTURE menu. There is no reference to WIDE and the only mention I can find in the manual refers to the WSS setting which is a setting for PAL timings. I tried feeding it different resolutions but to no avail. I couldn't get it to say WIDE

Is it possible the XBox is outputting some funky timings? Have you tried the XBox Gaming forum here on AVS?

I am sorry that consolation is all I can offer.

ted

On HDMI I get 750/60p, on VGA I get 720 WIDE.

VGA does fill the screen perfectly, HDMI suck in that regard, the cropping shits me to tears.

I used to only use VGA, couldn't see any image improvement with HDMI - until I borrowed a decent HDMI-DVI cable. The next day i purchased one of my own....

It's not a huge difference but it is noticable.

That is good info. I don't think there is anything with my system. I get all the controls in component, most in hdmi, but in vga you can't control colour. I'll ask in the xbox forum. Thanks guys.

BTW ted I have the 6600 gt as well.

I used VGA with my box for a short time and don't remember whether I had access to all the PICTURE controls but I *do* have a theory. :rolleyes:

As a design, the VGA transport is likely expecting 8 bit RGB which is what the pj converts all data streams to, for its panel drive. If this is true the engineers likely believe there is no need to allow further colour control as RGB is essentially the raw data as it comes from source. In other words it is, as to be expected.

From the 700's manual Page 40 (Page 21 of the pdf version)
NOTE:
When PC signals are being input, adjustment can be made only when 1 125 (1 080)/60i and 1 125 (1 080)/50i signals are being input.
So it looks like when sending 720p to the 700's VGA input, it is not possible to do colour adjust

Brad, I made the assumption that you were using HDMI (since I don't do XBox), so if it is VGA you are referring to then you will have to do your tweaks within the XBox if possible or give HDMI a try - if the box has said transport.

Thanks Smegger for the nudge in the likely right direction.

ted

I'm writing in this forum because I hadn't seen anyone post this issue.

Problem:
After replacing my first bulb after 1 year and 4 months (about 2996 hours), I noticed quite a bit of dust in the unit. So, being somewhat around the block about cleaning computers out, got the ol' air can out and blew a lot of the dust out of the unit. Unknown to me, that was not a wise decision.

After I replaced the lamp and hooked it back up, I noticed a considerable ghosting - mostly when something white would show in the screen. It reminded me of watching a wedding video because of the nice whiteish glow that seem to be on all viewing modes. Nothing I could do through the menus seem to fix the issue. What I did notice, however, was quite a bit of dust in the lens.

Now, having a lot of dust in the lens, according to these forums, shouldn't make a difference. I beg to differ as this ended up being the primary reason why the ghosting effect was occurring.

Service Manual:
Now, maybe I wasn't resourceful enough to find a free copy of the service manual for the PT-AE700U, but I found it for sale on the web for $7.95. So, spent the dough and reviewed the manual. It was somewhat useful as I didn't know about the hidden menu item and it also came in handy for the following procedure.

Solution:
Since my unit was well out of warranty, I didn't have too much grief doing the following procedure. However, I must caution you that there are extremely delicate parts inside the projector and you must take great care in doing this.

After several attempts on opening the case, I finally found the right combination.

1. Remove the Shift Lever (the little stem that moves the lens around). You will find a screw behind the little white cap. Turn the screw clockwise to remove. That will make it easier to remove the outer casing.
2. Unscrew all the bottom screws - there are 7 of them.
3. Remove the outer casing carefully.
4. Inside, you will need to remove the APC board. This is where the service manual comes in handy. I would advise looking there for instructions. You will have to undo the three ribbon cables (they talk to the LCD Unit) from the motherboard. You will see tiny black locks that you have to slide to get the cable to come out. Don't worry, putting them back in was a breeze. You also have to unhook a couple of other tiny cables as well. Once that is done, just move the board upside down away from the lens to the other side of the unit.
5. Behind the lens, you will see the LCD unit that has three cables attached to it. This is the LCD part of the unit. There are two screws on top that you can undo. The entire unit comes out. This is where I ended up spending most of the time cleaning.
6. First, the lens. There is a back section of the lens which is very easy to get to. I would get a extremely soft cloth (no paper) to wipe the lens. A can of air is helpful AFTER you wipe the lens. Don't use anything wet, alcohol, or any other solvent to clean it. You're just removing dust, not stains.
7. On the LCD unit, you will find three tiny little LCD screens. Do the same as step 6. Again, I can't caution you enough to be extremely careful and extremely gentle.
8. If you look on the LCD unit (that has the three ribbons), you will see glass where the light goes through the LCD screens. This is where you have to be creative - because you want to get in between the glass. You may find a build-up of dust in there (as I did). I ended using a very soft and very thin material (somewhat like you'll find in a t-shirt). Using a small toothpick, I was able to slide the cloth between the glass. Again, do step 6.
9. Inside the unit, you will see where the mirrors reflect light from the lamp into the three sections of the LCD unit. Again, do step 6 on each of the glass sections.
10. Replace the LCD unit, the motherboard, the case, etc.

Hopefully you find this useful. It made a significant difference to the mess I made myself.

Again, if you aren't comfortable with electronics, I would advise you just sending it in to Panasonic or some other service center. However, I don't know if they perform cleanings like this or not.

In the end, it makes sense. If you have a lot of dust build-up, when a bright white is projected, its going to "light-up" the dust on the several pieces of glass, LCD screens, and inside the lens.

Has anyone else had to do this?

John

Hi John,

Can you hook me up with the service manual? I have a horror story with Panasonic authorized service center. My ae700 went out about three months ago and took it to local Panasonic service center who said would charge $150 just to take a look at it but would apply this charge towards fixing the projector. Well, after a month I called to follow up and they said they were waiting for ballast to come from Panasonic middle of March. 2 weeks later, again I had to follow up on my initiative and they said they got the ballast but the fan is out and waiting for the fan part from Panasonic. 4 weeks later I had to follow up again and service center said yes the projector is ready to pick up and bill would be $450. Wow, this is expensive. Asked if this includes bulb and they said NO. Day later, as I was going to get my projector, technician calls (which is last Friday) tells me the lights are now powering up properly and the faulty item is power supply and told me that my cost now is $560. Hell, the freaking projector is only worth $1K at most on ebay as used projector.

At this point, I want to just pay the $150 and get my projector back from service center as obviously I am getting royally screwed. The projector is out of warranty so what the heck, I can repair it myself. The only thing that is wrong with it is probably the power supply. So, I want to get the power supply and put it in myself using the service manual. The problem is where to get the power supply. Any suggestions from you or members seeing this post.

I bought my manual at this site:

I would put the link in, but the post won't let me. Lookup smpcshop on the internet.

$7.95 - then you download the PDF

Awesome. Thanks for the link. Purchased it and got 215 pages. There are many other service manuals for just about everything out there. Now, if I'm only resourceful enought to find the power supply I need.

Awesome. Thanks for the link. Purchased it and got 215 pages. There are many other service manuals for just about everything out there. Now, if I'm only resourceful enought to find the power supply I need.

You can find your part here... (http://www.pasc.panasonic.com/Epartr/PartslistChoice.asp?)

Johnrboren- Thanks for the note.

saved it on file

Good info! My PS went at 825hrs(lamp still original) TWO DAYS before warranty was up! Talk about lucky!! I'm storing this info for next year when the PS goes again :rolleyes: this sure seems like a major flaw to me... the PS goes before the lamp :confused: :confused:

Is it possible to use any other resolution than 1280x720 from a PC (w/ Geforce 6800) and still get decent clarity for fonts and letters? I understand the situation that the projector is capped at a certain resolution, so running at a higher resolution is pointless in terms of detail. But 1280x720 is extremely small, particularly in the Y direction, so being able to run at a higher resolution like 1600x900 or even 1920x1080 would be ideal.

I'd imagine this would require some antialiasing settings or something like that. Anyone have any suggestions? Or is everyone pretty much running 1280x720 on their HTPC?

Is it possible to use any other resolution than 1280x720 from a PC (w/ Geforce 6800) and still get decent clarity for fonts and letters? I understand the situation that the projector is capped at a certain resolution, so running at a higher resolution is pointless in terms of detail. But 1280x720 is extremely small, particularly in the Y direction, so being able to run at a higher resolution like 1600x900 or even 1920x1080 would be ideal.

I'd imagine this would require some antialiasing settings or something like that. Anyone have any suggestions? Or is everyone pretty much running 1280x720 on their HTPC?


I think your a little confused, a higher resolution will give you smaller text not larger.

Text size is fine for me at 1280x720 on a 2.7m screen. At 1920x1080 it is way too small to read.

If yours is smaller then try setting large fonts(display properties - appearance tab - font size).

Changing to a lower resolution will give you larger fonts but the picture quality will suffer for movies and hdtv.

Oops I see where the confusion lies. When I said 1280x720 is extremely small, I was referring to the total real estate on the screen, not the size of the fonts. I can read 1280x720 just fine, but it just doesn't seem like enough real estate for some of the apps I run. If I switch to 1600x900, I have enough real estate, but the fonts look like crap. It looks really pixelated and very hard to read, I think if the fonts were more crisp, perhaps with some good anti-aliasing settings, it would be much better.

I turned on "clear type" fonts (I believe that's what it's called) in my windows settings and that helped, but I'm wondering if there's more I can do because that's still not enough.

Thanks,
Dustin

Oops I see where the confusion lies. When I said 1280x720 is extremely small, I was referring to the total real estate on the screen, not the size of the fonts. I can read 1280x720 just fine, but it just doesn't seem like enough real estate for some of the apps I run. If I switch to 1600x900, I have enough real estate, but the fonts look like crap. It looks really pixelated and very hard to read, I think if the fonts were more crisp, perhaps with some good anti-aliasing settings, it would be much better.

I turned on "clear type" fonts (I believe that's what it's called) in my windows settings and that helped, but I'm wondering if there's more I can do because that's still not enough.

Thanks,
Dustin

All fixed pixel devices have a native panel resolution which is what they should be driven at if you wish to avoid scaling errors. What you are seeing is true of 19 inch LCD's as well, but at pj type screen sizes these errors become readily apparent.

A single panel DLP (to avoid convergence errors) might do you a little better as DLP seems to provide an inherently "sharper" (note the quotes) image.

Some PJ's allow for a scrolling mode on VGA wherin you are provided with a pixel mapped window within a larger virtual space but it still will not provide enough real estate 1920 is what you are after. The 700 provides a scroll mode for 1280 x 1024 but would be unwieldy for desktop work.

What you have done is pretty well it, short of buying a 1920 x 1080 device.
CRT's are still the reference solution for desktop work.

ted

I just got my Panny 700 back from the shop with a new optical block (replacing the damanged one).

Everything seems fine, except that in order to get the colors balanced, I had to set both the Green Brightness and Green Contrast to -10. Set at 0, the picture has WAY too much green. But at -10 it looks fine.

Should I be worried about this at all? My old optical block had decent color balance with everything at 0. Is this just a standard adjustment that I shouldn't worry about?

Oops I see where the confusion lies. When I said 1280x720 is extremely small, I was referring to the total real estate on the screen, not the size of the fonts. I can read 1280x720 just fine, but it just doesn't seem like enough real estate for some of the apps I run. If I switch to 1600x900, I have enough real estate, but the fonts look like crap. It looks really pixelated and very hard to read, I think if the fonts were more crisp, perhaps with some good anti-aliasing settings, it would be much better.

I turned on "clear type" fonts (I believe that's what it's called) in my windows settings and that helped, but I'm wondering if there's more I can do because that's still not enough.

Thanks,
Dustin

Yes, I see now.

Regarding the pixelation of text - I get this with the HDMI connection, so at the moment i've gone back to VGA. I'm spending a fair bit of time at the desktop at the moment and it's MUCH better on VGA.

I only change back for a high quality source.

I've both connections from the pc and just unplug the HDMI when I want to use VGA, if I leave them both connected and just disable HDMI it seems to be rediscovered every now and again.

I have a AE700 with about 500 hours on it. I have applied the various VB and flicker tweak adjustments (found here in the avs forum) and they have worked great. However, recently the whole image on the screen will all of the sudden either brighten or darken for no reason. It does this for both connections (component-digital cable and hdmi-dvd player) and it happens numerous times through out a movie or show no matter what the source. Any ideas of what this could be? :confused:

I have a AE700 with about 500 hours on it. I have applied the various VB and flicker tweak adjustments (found here in the avs forum) and they have worked great. However, recently the whole image on the screen will all of the sudden either brighten or darken for no reason. It does this for both connections (component-digital cable and hdmi-dvd player) and it happens numerous times through out a movie or show no matter what the source. Any ideas of what this could be? :confused:

Sounds like either a lamp that is ready to pop, or a bad power supply. Mine did the flicker thing, but that was before I updated the firmware last fall. (And it only happened on HDMI).

I have a AE700 with about 500 hours on it. I have applied the various VB and flicker tweak adjustments (found here in the avs forum) and they have worked great. However, recently the whole image on the screen will all of the sudden either brighten or darken for no reason. It does this for both connections (component-digital cable and hdmi-dvd player) and it happens numerous times through out a movie or show no matter what the source. Any ideas of what this could be? :confused:Are you using your lamp in low power mode? If you are, try running in high for an hour, then go back to low.

I have a AE700 with about 500 hours on it. I have applied the various VB and flicker tweak adjustments (found here in the avs forum) and they have worked great. However, recently the whole image on the screen will all of the sudden either brighten or darken for no reason. It does this for both connections (component-digital cable and hdmi-dvd player) and it happens numerous times through out a movie or show no matter what the source. Any ideas of what this could be? :confused:

I had exactly the same thing at about 700 hours. After much searching on this and avforums.com I found the answer. It is the very first signs if of an ageing bulb but its not the end of the world. Basically its caused by the bulbs element getting dirty with burnt off particles from previous use. This causes arcing which generates the effects you see. To get rid of it you need to burn the lamp for a while to make sure it gets good and hot and burns off the gunk. Some people recommed running for 16 hours or so but I found 8-10 to do the trick. So you can either leave it running overnight or just do a long session of watching lots of movies to clock up the hours. This should clear it up.

I found you need to repeat this process every couple of hundred hours. The drawback is that the process itself racks up lamp hours so I always plan it as a marathon movie session so I at least get use from it. Unforunately it does get progressively worse. I'm on about 1500 hours and now see it about every 100 hours. Still, I like a good marathon session now and again so its no great problem.

TrashyRabbit et al, I have the same thing here - for the last 500 hours or so.

I'm up to just over 1000 hours on my 2nd globe(first went at 800) and the bright/dark flashes only get worse if you do nothing about it.

I found running in dynamic with high lamp can help, but it's unwatchable so I only tried that for an hour before setting it back. It helped for a couple of hours.

For perhaps the last 300-400 hours mine has been unwatchable on low lamp, it will start blinking within minutes and become almost stroboscopic.

So far doing as you said, marathon periods, has helped - I only discovered this by accident. It does not work for long enough though and I don't plan on having 10-12 hour sessions every week.

I did read in another thread (Z? I think) that some people were physically hitting the pj to dislodge the gunk.....That just scared the **** out of me. :eek:

Strangely enough, my previous globe did not do this at all - but then it did kack early.

I'm approaching 2000 hours in high lamp mode on the original lamp and the darn 700 still looks really good. I ordered a new lamp Monday and it arrived today. Sure hope the new lamp is as good as the old one.

All in all I've been very pleased with this relatively cheap FP. It amazes me to see the pricing and rebates on the AE 900. That is one true bargain. Other than a trip to Heartland to fix the HDMI flashing issue my 700 has been as reliable as a anvil.

I asked my wife if she thought the picture looked significantly dimmer now than it did when new and she said she didn't think so. Surprisingly neither do I, and this is on a relatively large Carada BW 118" screen.

A buddy of mine has the new Samsung 710 and while I have to admit it does have a better picture, its not enough better to make me run out and buy one. Hopefully the 700 will hang in there until 1080 machines become the bargain that the old 700 has been.

John

I'm approaching 2000 hours in high lamp mode on the original lamp and the darn 700 still looks really good. I ordered a new lamp Monday and it arrived today. Sure hope the new lamp is as good as the old one.
John

John,

How long have you run in HIGH?
This is different than running high. :)

ted

A quick update.

I noticed that in low lamp mode the blinking would start far sooner that in high lamp, sometimes in high we could get half way through a movie before it started.
In low lamp mode it starts within minutes.

Over the last week or so, we have had a few marathon sessions and I have to say it has made a HUGE difference.

The blinking had completely stopped.

Or so I thought, until I updated the ATI drivers in my HTPC.
See, when I update drivers I connect both HDMI and VGA connections from pc to pj. I tend to use different connections at different times and leave both connected, disabling the one not used via the ATI control panel.
Lately I've had the HDMI disconnected altogether, say for a week. See a connection here?

Updated the drivers and the pj is blinking like crazy. Later that night I disconnect the HDMI connection altogether and put in a movie. No blinking.

So is it the marathon sessions, the HDMI/VGA connectors together causing an issue? Maybe both.

I'll leave things as is for a while then plug the HDMI back in and see what happens.

If someone else has the blinking and HDMI/VGA connections maybe they could also test this.


Smegger.....out!

To zoom, or not to zoom.....that is the question. I've been super busy since I got my projector during the winter so I haven't been able to enjoy it as much as I like. That being said, I realized that the only thing that fills my screen (110" 16:9), while watching dvds, is the main menu. Movies that are 1:78:1 have small black lines on top and bottom, where the 2:39:1 movies, obviously have thicker black lines. I guess I always thought the 1:78:1 movies should fill the screen. Zooming will fill the screen, with some slight cropping, but I find makes the overall image far too soft so I don't use zoom. Is there a way to make the 'enhanced for widescreen tv's' dvd's fill my screen using my AE700? Did I just miss something in the setup? Or will I just deal with it?

Seems my Panasonic got some weird glitch - it suddenly started to have problems starting up and shutdowns with overheating signal after few minutes of usage.
Lamp has only 610H - most of them in low power mode.

Sometimes projectors starts up without problems, sometimes it cant even start up - seems like it's booting up, Iris becomes operational (you could have click), fans start and then it stops. Power indicator goes to yellow, then it retries automatically the same operation indefinatelly - sometimes it succeeds, but then it turns out in 10 minutes with overheating signal (lamp led is blinking with red).
I watched Temp1 and Temp2 in service menu - they are around 160 and 180 when projector stops with overheating signal. That is very low values - noway it could be overheating :(

I dissambled projector today and saw nothing problematic - no dust inside and watched it when it was starting up. All fans are ok, but when it fails to start i see that lamp is not even powered up - something fails before that.

Anyone had something like that with their AE700 before?
I really dont want to go to Panasonic service - last time i asked them to upgrade firmware on projector it took them 4 months to order necessary parts (thanks god i kept projector at home during that time).

In a rush here, but what was the method to access the service/secret menu again? Thanks :)

Just hit the 2000 hour mark a couple nights ago on my original bulb. My AE700 still ranks among the best purchases I've ever made. I plan on keeping it until the 1080p units drop under 2k (end of 2007 maybe?)

I dissambled projector today and saw nothing problematic - no dust inside and watched it when it was starting up. All fans are ok, but when it fails to start i see that lamp is not even powered up - something fails before that.

Anyone had something like that with their AE700 before?
I really dont want to go to Panasonic service - last time i asked them to upgrade firmware on projector it took them 4 months to order necessary parts (thanks god i kept projector at home during that time).

Putting my money on the power supply unless there is something wrong with the sensor. If the lamp is flickering this would suggest a bad ballast board (alliteration intended - :rolleyes: ).

You are dead on about the temps and if the fans are spinning the supply is the next logical place.

I recently had my supply replaced for similar symptoms - though mine gave up the ghost rather quickly.

ted

Mine did the exact same thing, along with many others, when the power supply went bad... at least that's what the service people said went bad...

ave-

Seems my Panasonic got some weird glitch - it suddenly started to have problems starting up and shutdowns with overheating signal after few minutes of usage.
Lamp has only 610H - most of them in low power mode.

Sometimes projectors starts up without problems, sometimes it cant even start up - seems like it's booting up, Iris becomes operational (you could have click), fans start and then it stops. Power indicator goes to yellow, then it retries automatically the same operation indefinatelly - sometimes it succeeds, but then it turns out in 10 minutes with overheating signal (lamp led is blinking with red).
I watched Temp1 and Temp2 in service menu - they are around 160 and 180 when projector stops with overheating signal. That is very low values - noway it could be overheating :(

I dissambled projector today and saw nothing problematic - no dust inside and watched it when it was starting up. All fans are ok, but when it fails to start i see that lamp is not even powered up - something fails before that.

Anyone had something like that with their AE700 before?
I really dont want to go to Panasonic service - last time i asked them to upgrade firmware on projector it took them 4 months to order necessary parts (thanks god i kept projector at home during that time).

I've recently made the leap to HD digital cable and have started having an annoying issue. It seems that my 700U loses the HD signal or something temporarily on certain scenes in the show. For example, many of the transition scenes in Prison Break or Heroes go black and clearly the 700U is losing the signal. I was thinking that maybe the signal is switching resolution and the Panny can't keep up. I have a Motorola DCT-6200. I've also noticed that this happens when the signal comes from my Xbox360 - in particular, on replays of goals in NHL 07.

If anyone has any idea what might be causing this, please let me know. :(

Thanks for ideas - looks like i'm going to try Panasonic service.
If they still suck like 1 year ago, then i will order new power supply and replace it myself :(

So what are you current AE700 owners thinking regarding an upgrade path for your next projector? And, for those of you who have already upgraded, what did you move up to? My panny just crossed the 2000 hour mark on the original bulb after 20 months of faithful service. It's still going strong (albeit dimmer than it was in the beginning) but I guess it's time for me to start thinking about the future.

The AX100 is no doubt one way to go, with its light cannon output and better CR...but at the end of the day it's still 720p. How much better will it be? The step up to 1080p in the AE1000 is basically twice the price and early reports seem to state that it's not the best choice for those who want the sharpest image from HD-DVD or BD. So where does that leave me? Should I just ride out my original bulb and hope to get another 10 months or 1000 hours from it and see what comes out next fall? What are you guys doing? I know there's a bunch of you out there considering this thread has over a half million views!

So what are you current AE700 owners thinking regarding an upgrade path for your next projector? And, for those of you who have already upgraded, what did you move up to? My panny just crossed the 2000 hour mark on the original bulb after 20 months of faithful service. It's still going strong (albeit dimmer than it was in the beginning) but I guess it's time for me to start thinking about the future.

The AX100 is no doubt one way to go, with its light cannon output and better CR...but at the end of the day it's still 720p. How much better will it be? The step up to 1080p in the AE1000 is basically twice the price and early reports seem to state that it's not the best choice for those who want the sharpest image from HD-DVD or BD. So where does that leave me? Should I just ride out my original bulb and hope to get another 10 months or 1000 hours from it and see what comes out next fall? What are you guys doing? I know there's a bunch of you out there considering this thread has over a half million views!


My AE700 is going on 24 mo. old, and I have a second lamp in it. The original lamp is still ok, it was just getting dim and I had an opportunity to pick up a spare that was cheap. I plan on using the second bulb until it pops or gets too dim, then switch back the original. I would really like to hold out as long as I can and pick up a 1080p/24 projector. A lot can change in 6 months to a year.

So what are you current AE700 owners thinking regarding an upgrade path for your next projector? And, for those of you who have already upgraded, what did you move up to? My panny just crossed the 2000 hour mark on the original bulb after 20 months of faithful service. It's still going strong (albeit dimmer than it was in the beginning) but I guess it's time for me to start thinking about the future.

The AX100 is no doubt one way to go, with its light cannon output and better CR...but at the end of the day it's still 720p. How much better will it be? The step up to 1080p in the AE1000 is basically twice the price and early reports seem to state that it's not the best choice for those who want the sharpest image from HD-DVD or BD. So where does that leave me? Should I just ride out my original bulb and hope to get another 10 months or 1000 hours from it and see what comes out next fall? What are you guys doing? I know there's a bunch of you out there considering this thread has over a half million views!

I'm at same dilema atm - upgrade to new 720p projector or get 1080p/24 one.
If they were same price (hah :)), then it will be no brainer, but counting that different between them will be more like $3000 its tuff questions :(
I'm already ruled out Mitsubishi HC5000 (low light output), so that leaves only Sony VW-50 or new Optoma. No way i'm going for 1080p and getting projector with Panasonic SmoothScreen - it kills whole point of getting shart 1080p image.

It will be nice to have 1080P at some future point, but I think I can wait. Can't believe so many would just buy a new projector when the old bulb goes. I think this bad boy is still a great projector... I recently bought a spare bulb (original still good). I hope to get a few more years out of this projector before I get the itch to upgrade. Things seem to change a lot every year, I'd wait at least one more year...

I don't have HD-DVD or BlueRay yet. Are all of the movies released in these formats really 1080P or is it a mix?

Does anyone know if it has problems with cropping or at 720p from component? Does it do 1:1 pixelmapping too? I'm buying a PS3 in march(I live in europe) and since the panny has a lot of issues with HDMI i thought about using component.

It will be nice to have 1080P at some future point, but I think I can wait. Can't believe so many would just buy a new projector when the old bulb goes. I think this bad boy is still a great projector... I recently bought a spare bulb (original still good). I hope to get a few more years out of this projector before I get the itch to upgrade. Things seem to change a lot every year, I'd wait at least one more year...

I don't have HD-DVD or BlueRay yet. Are all of the movies released in these formats really 1080P or is it a mix?

I too think the 700 is a great projector. I'd like faster panels and a little sharper image, but overall it's been one of the greatest purchases I've ever made. I'm considering buying a new projector because we're already 2 generations down the road (3 if you count the AE1000) and that's usually where you start to see a big difference in performance. There comes a point (I'm not sure we're there yet) where you'd be better off putting the cost of the bulb towards a new unit instead. Every day that time gets closer...thus the dilemma. Well that and the perpetual itch to get something new.

bakpakva: how much did the new bulb set you back? The lowest I've seen is $300, but the price seems to have gone up lately.

Kroot: I agree, no way would I even consider spending thousands more for a 1080 projector that is best used on DVDs.

Maybe I'll just bite the bullet, buy a new bulb and see what the replacement to the AE1000 looks like. It will be next fall before we know it!

Few months ago I started to check for the 1080p models down the pipeline. I'm in the awkward position where the player has a higher output than the display. In the past it was always the other way around. The player( tape, disk) output was easily bested with better display resolution. So this time I have to get the 1080 projector to feed the 1080i picture. In the future when there is a 1080p player I should have my display waiting and able.

Last night at the AVS Forum member HD DVD meet I had the fortunate opportunity to screen soon to be released movies that absolutely have that 3D effect. All this was dramatically possible using the Marantz projector 1 chip DLP and 1080p converter onto a 100" plus Greyhawk screen. After seeing that I have no doubt that my next PJ will not be a 720p.

I'm thinking of upgrading from AE700 for only 1 reason atm - if lamp dies new one costs here $430 :(
So its cheaper for me to sell my old AE700 and buy new projector from same class - this way i get upgrade for cost of new lamp + some small amount of cash.
And of course you get new lamp which is brighter :)

Does anyone know if it has problems with cropping or at 720p from component? Does it do 1:1 pixelmapping too? I'm buying a PS3 in march(I live in europe) and since the panny has a lot of issues with HDMI i thought about using component.

No, it only crops over HDMI.


Wow- just looked at bulb prices - I can't believe how much they went up. That is rediculous. Now I know what you guys mean (ebay has the only one under 300). I think with my next projector I'll buy a backup bulb when I buy the projector, I guess they are the cheapest when the model is new?

I think cheapest prices on bulbs are usually when shops are starting to sell excess amounts of them that they purchased at some point.
With AE700 i saw few good deals 6 months ago, but i was not interested in them at that time... :(

I haven't shopped bulb prices yet, mine only has about 800 hours on it. I'm sitting tight until 1080p projectors are cheap. See no reason to upgrade until then. I have tended to upgrade about every 5 years over the last 15 years - I don't like chasing the latest and greatest.

It's actually funny to see people that live that way - if you read the forums you'll see people just gushing over the newest projector and how it's absolutely great, and then 1-2 years later the same projector will be trashed like it's garbage. Obviously it still puts out the same picture. I'm in no rush to spend more.

Just update - got my projector from service company (thats god we have new one that doesnt suck as all previous ones).
Projector had 2 problems - 1 chip was replaced in power supply (that fixed my issue that i described).
And turned out board which handles input signals was not working properly - only HDMI input was working (i'm using only it lately) and all others were dead :( They replaced another chip and all inputs now working properly.
Since warranty just expired it cost me $200 to fix issues + 4 weeks without projector - no way i'm buying Panasonic again.

Well, my first post here. I got a 700 a little over a month ago, at an auction, of all places. I only payed a little more than what a bulb goes for, so I must say I got one heck of a deal. Now, they claimed it was brand new, and it certainly appears brand new in all respects - even the box was 100% unmolested, but I finally got around to checking the hours on the bulb. Well, I don't think I put 400 hours on the bulb in one month! I suspect that this might be a "refurb" or a projector that was returned for a better model and sent away for a firmware update. Not that I care. For the price I paid, I would have bought it with a burned out bulb! Anyway, the projector is working great. I haven't seen *any* of the issues that seem to plague this thread. No vertical banding, no peekaboos, nothing. Picture is extremely bright, and when I first got it we even watched movies on our white walls in our front room that has *terrible* ambient light during the day. Even my usually-holier-than-thou brother-in-law couldn't help himself as he poured out compliments, in my worst-case-scenario-room.

My current setup is playing off my PC in the back office. Much better light control, with dark wood paneled walls, and the doors on the opposite end of the room from the screen. I'm just using a white sheet at the moment, but I have a sheet of Wilsonart Designer-White laminate on the way. Screen will be approx 9.25' x 5'. And that brings me to the reason that I've ascended from lurker to noob... I'm worried that my planned screen size might actually be too big. Throw is approx 15', but my row of seating is only 10' from the screen. My desk/pc/projector reside behind the couch. Is a ~9.25" wide screen going to be too wide at that distance? The current picture on the sheet is ~7' wide, and seems like it could go bigger, but I'm not sure how much. I'm also wondering if anybody is noticing screen-door at similar distances. We don't notice any with a 7' picture at 10', but I wonder if it will be apparent when the image is over 9' wide?

Oh, and hi! This place is an amazing resource - I think I'll stick around for a while!

Congrats! Not everyone has the problems mentioned, after a couple thousand hours mine (albeit with a new recent bulb) is as good as new - I love it!

Gunpower -

I sit at 1.1x screen width front row seating in my theater and there is no screen door visable. I highly doubt you'll be sitting closer than that. Most folks sit 1.5 to 2.0x.

At that distance source artifact is very visable, so upscaling is a must IMO or HD source. However for good DVD and upscaling it's very watchable, though in my house the kids usually sit up front.

My best advice to you would be to put up as much material as you think you'll use and watch a few movies to see what YOU like before you commit to a screen. I think I'm pushing the limits of the 700 with my screen size, especially with an aging bulb, but my room is completely light controlled and has very dark ceilings and walls.

110-120" diagnonal I think is about max for this projector most people would say.

Cheers and best luck with it!

Thanks for the welcome, bob & PAP.

Last night I got real close to the 7' picture and couldn't see any screendoor (all praise smoothscreen!) but then I zoomed out the picture to 9.25' wide and could detect a very small amount of SD when standing next to the screen. Then I tried the same thing at viewing distance, and did not see any SD at that distance, so I'm sticking with my plans for the bigger screen.

Last night we watched U571 and I played Counsterstrike:Source. I should have bought a projector 5 years ago!

I will be using a 16:9 screen ratio. I considered a CIH setup, but the budget has prevented that, along with the dimensions of my wall that that the screen will be on (wall has a built in bookcase and cabinet - screen will hang in front of the bookcase). Now I have to decide what I will do when showing 2.35:1 and 4:3 material. I have failed to find any slick budget-wise solutions to masking in both horizontal and vertical directions. If anybody has any suggestions or good links for solving that problem, it would be much appreciated.

I've had my AE700 for about a month now (upgraded from an AE100...BIG difference!). I'm shooting a 120"x67" image on Dazian CCC from 17' away with my primary seating 15' from screen and LOVE the PQ. No noticeable screendoor and a great looking picture. I'm using my myHD MDP-100 card for DVD playback, which upconverts all DVDs to 1080 via VGA. I couldn't be happier with the PQ right now.

With that, I'd have to tell you GunPower to go as big as you think your room and seating distance will allow. My room is only 10'-6" wide, so my 10' wide screen is pretty much as big as I can go. But, if I could go bigger, I would.

I'm experiencing an issue with my AE700 that I have not seen documented here.

I've had the unit for several years, and have about 3400 hours on the bulb in low power mode. For the most part, the projector has been a solid performer, the only issue so far has been the well documented power board problem that was resolved with a new circuit board that I was able to install myself.

I probably watch 70% 4:3 material in auto aspect mode, so I have black bars on the sides. So I guess I have around 2400 hours of viewing in this fashion.

Starting a couple months ago, I started to notice that the black bar areas looked different when watching wide screen DVD's or HDTV. So this is with multiple different input sources. The picture was there, it was just darker, with a bit of a yellow cast to it. At first only noticible in bright scenes, but now noticible most of the time.

I don't want to call it burn-in. There is no image burned there. It seems to be more of an uneven type wear issue, but I'm not sure on what. LCD panels?

Could there by some uneven type dust buildup on these areas? The line down the screen between "normal" and "darker" is razor sharp, and right at the area where the black bars normally are.

For the last month or so, I have even been watching things in Just or Zoom mode trying to put more hours of full screen use on the panels. But this does not seem to be doing any good.

I know a new bulb may go a long way here. I'm extremely happy with 3400 hours on the original bulb and don't mind replacing. If the extra brightness will push the sides back to matching the center area, money well spent. But I'm a little worried that the extra brightness may just make the problem all the more noticible.

Just to add some details: DVD / HD-DVD / video games are XBox360 via VGA. Cable HDTV via component. Satellite SDTV via s-vid but converted to 480i over same component cable. I believe I bought this PJ around Jan of 05, never had a firmware upgrade.

Steve

I don't think a new bulb will help. I don't think it will hurt much either. My ae700 has some amount of light cyan discoloration, in a few large areas, a weird, small greenish blob in one place and is getting a bit blurry. It still looks ok on most program material, but it is just a matter of time before I replace it. I am considering a plasma replacement, or one of the new 720p inexpensive ($1000-$1500) fp models. It is hard to choose, since projectors just don't seem to last very long. DLP - color wheels get noisy when the bearings start going or lcd's - which develop color uniformity issues. It would be hard to give up the big screen, but I am getting tired of shelling out money for a new pj every couple of years. I would hate to shell out the cash for a new 1080p pj and have it turn to snot in two years.

I don't have many hours on either of my panny 700s . Just over 1k on the one in my year round home and something like 200 or so on the one at the beach house. Although it sounds like I don't use them much I really like the big picture for special occasions. For example, patriot football or movies on the big screen. My wife and I also like to watch 24 and the Sopranos on the big screen. But for average material we simply don't use it all that much. I just grabbed a cheap 34 inch hd crt for 325 bucks to tide me over for a few months when I will buy the Westinghouse 47 inch LCD . For most programs that will be just fine. But I just can't see giving up the larger image for some shows. When my 700s become unmatchable I will either replace them with another inexpensive projector or 'something state of the art if lasers are perfected by then . But giving up the big picture for the SuperBowl ? I just can't see it .

Small Update.

I finished my 9.25' wide laminate screen Tuesday evening. To say that my wife is awe-struck by the picture, is probably an understatement. I picked up a Toshiba HD-A2 last night, and this morning my Onkyo S790 system arrived. I have my work cut out for me this evening as far as hooking everything up. I told my boss I won't be in tomorrow... I'm taking Good Friday off and enjoying movies with the family all day!

So far, my entire theater has cost me under $1150, so the WAF is off the meter.