>>Anyone done any A/B testing of letting the DVD Upscale vs letting the Z3 Upscale?<<

I have - the Z3 is good, no doubt about it, but with my Panasonic S97 set to output 720P via HDMI (Y,Pb,Pr 4:4:4) the image has more 'pop' to it with fewer artifacts than feeding 480p and letting the Z3 upscale.

The final quality will totally depend on the player purchased - for example, the Zenith 318 has terrible scaling at 720P. It's OK at 1080i, but with the Z3 I prefer to send a signal that has a 1:1 pixel match so that the Z3 doesn't have to do any scaling at all.

Originally posted by Disclord
>>Anyone done any A/B testing of letting the DVD Upscale vs letting the Z3 Upscale?<<

I have - the Z3 is good, no doubt about it, but with my Panasonic S97 set to output 720P via HDMI (Y,Pb,Pr 4:4:4) the image has more 'pop' to it with fewer artifacts than feeding 480p and letting the Z3 upscale.

The final quality will totally depend on the player purchased - for example, the Zenith 318 has terrible scaling at 720P. It's OK at 1080i, but with the Z3 I prefer to send a signal that has a 1:1 pixel match so that the Z3 doesn't have to do any scaling at all.

Thanks Disclord... Of course, it is next to impossible to get a Panasonic S97 right now....

if viewing distance is 12' (I can move the couch either forward or back about 1' if need be) and you were planning on getting the z3, where would you mount it and what screen size would you use. (82" ceilings)

I am currently thinking on the 1.5x mark and around a 84"-86" screen size.
It seems to me the 1.0 zoom would be better, but where it would be placed would be right over the couch, just a bit in front of my head (if I calculated everything correctly) or if I used closer to max zoom I could move the projector a couple of feet in front of the couch.

Basically I am tall and since I can hit it would rather it be out of the way of any walkway.

So basically my two options I think are to either have a little bit less then the 1.5x ratio and mount the projector so that the lens is right over my head when I am sitting down or keep the 1.5x ratio and mount in front of the couch with close to max zoom (I would have no option to make the screen bigger here)

(I think I have been playing too much with the projection calculator)
Any suggestions?

thanks
-Todd

Just measured my sertup and screen is 86" with Z3 mounted 11' from it and seating is about 12' from screen. If I do it again I'll mount it closer about 9' so I do not have close to maximum zoom.

Originally posted by nickbuol
OK. So what type of screen are people using with their Z3? Not brand necessarily, but grey, white, gain, etc?

I had read for a while that people were using a matte white screen with a gain of 1.0 with the Z3, but now there is talk of grey screens with a gain of less than 1.0...

Is there a guideline on this?

I will be using my Z3 (when I get it) in a completely light controlled room, and hope for either a 100 or 106" screen (depending how whether or not my wife says that the 106" is too big), but I want to make sure that I get the right screen the first time.

Thanks!

Bump. I really am curious about this....

I'm new to the whole projection thing and I haven't really gotten mine in my hands yet (the official Day of Wonderment is the 22nd), but I think I have a pretty good grasp on the technology. Different screens will be ideal for people with different setups. It's not as simple as "I have a Z3, what screen do I get?"

Naturally, the bigger your screen, the more overall picture brightness you'll be losing as the light's spread out over a larger surface area. Here, you would want a higher gain. As in my case, I'll be going with a much smaller screen size (about 80"), so a gray screen will be very advantageous for me. It will not only increase the contrast and black levels, but it will take a bit of the light out of the picture so I won't get headaches since I watch in complete darkness. I'm just crossing my fingers that I can watch it in Eco mode and save a bit on the bulb life.

If you get suggestions from someone, be sure that they've got the same kind of setup as you have (wall color, amount of ambient light, and screen size). I know this doesn't directly answer your question, but maybe it can help you sift through the information that's already out there a bit better.

Okay guys, I have some questions. I just pulled the trigger on my Z3 sight unseen. I viewed a friend's year old Z2 this weekend and was very very pleased. Needless to say, it pushed me over the edge for a technology I've had my eye on for 4 years now. Now that my machine is set to arrive on the 22nd (too late for NBA All Star Weekend *sniff*), I'd like to know what kind of cables to purchase since I don't know what comes with the Z3. I want to order them now so I won't have to worry about them when the projector comes in. Needless to say, I want to use the internet to order my cables so I'll save some money.

Here's what I have:

HTPC w/ Radeon 9700 Pro (DVI, S-Video, and VGA)

Denon 2805 with component video switching/upconverting

HDTV Cable box from Time Warner Cable (to arrive on Friday) which I'm guessing will have HDMI/DVI or at least component. (If anyone lives in Charlotte, NC and knows what they give you...)

XBox, PS2, GameCube: all S-Video, but the XBox is component ready

DVD Player w/ component output


My receiver will take in 3 component signals, so I was probably going to use those for my XBox, DVD, and maybe HD box (if it's not DVI). If my HD box IS digital, what should I do? Also, I have no idea what even comes with the Z3, so what cables do I need and how should I set this up? Is it better to use a DVI/HDMI adapter and plug in a long DVI cable or get the long DVI -> HDMI cable? Is this a dual DVI or single (or does it matter)? Should I definitely have the HTPC hooked up to the DVI output on my computer, or would the VGA port be good enough? How bad would it be to output from my PC via DVI to component?

I know that's a ton of questions, but that's why I asked :). Lastly, what's the difference between regular 480 and 480p as ouput from a computer? Is it literally just the difference between the prefix number in the AxB resolution format?

Basically, if you had this equipment, how would you set it up? Thanks guys!

KidSmoov, thanks for the reply to the screen question, nothing there that I didn't already know, but thanks anyway. I might need to rephrase my question.

I realize that different environments have better results with different equipment combinations. I was looking for something like what you mentioned in that someone responds with "I have a light controlled room, 106" screen and the Z3 and I use X for my screen material. It is _____(grey, white, bright white, etc) and has a gain of Y. It looks great, but if it was _______ (different color, different gain, larger, smaller, etc) I think it would be even better."

I will end up with the projector before I have the screen, so I am still interested in all different screen sizes. I just like the idea of a large 100-106" screen, but I will be sitting with my eyes about 11.5' from the screen, so it may start to be too big, and then I will look at something around the 92-96" size, which starts getting me into the idea of a greay screen for more contrast and darker blacks....

As for your questions, I am not sure what comes with the Z3 for cables, but I have heard that the cables (DVI or HDMI) that come with many projectors are not the greatest quality, and are usually very short (3 feet)... Absolute worst case you could get cables from an online retailer that has a good return policy. Order the cables and then use what you need and send back what you don't. May cost your a little money in return shipping, but it may cost you nothing extra if you end up using them all.

Kidsmoov.....the Z3 comes ONLY with the yellow composite cable. You will need to purchase all the cables that you need. I highly recomend Ram Electronics for your cables. They are a sponsor of this site and have great cables for a very good price.

The HDMI is the best connection on the Z3, so I would use it for HDTV (assuming that the your cable box has DVI or HDMI activated). If your cable box is component only, I HIGHLY advice that you run the cables directly to the projector (the signal could be compromised by running it through your receiver). The Z3 has two component inputs, so this is possible.

The VGA connection on the Z3 is also very good. I would use this for your computer. I actually have two HDTV boxes (Dish and Adelphia), and I run the Dish box to the Z3 through VGA. It looks very good, but not as good as a pure digital conection.

The best option (and the most expensive) is to buy an HDMI switchbox and run everything that is digital to the HDMI input.

Lastly, I highly doubt that Time Warner will provide anything other than a cheap set of component cables.

I hope this answers some of your questions.

Nickboul...I use an 84" High Contrast Gray Screen (0.8 gain) and I sit about 10 feet back. It is perfect for my needs (watch in the dark in a room with white walls and ceiling). Any bigger of a screen and I would see "screen door effect" from this distance. 92" sounds like a good size for your situation. DO NOT disregard the 1.5 times viewing distance rule with the Z3. If your eyesight is good, you will see screen door from any closer.

I would not advice going with any screen with a negative gain if you go any bigger than 92". The Z3 has plenty of lumens but it is not a light cannon.

If you wanted to spend some serious dough, the Steward Firehawk would be a good choice (best of both worlds). If you wanted a very nice screen, and a great value, I would go with Carada (either High Contrast Gray or Brilliant White)

I have read the forum posts from the last 6 months here on AVS, regarding all i could find on cables, cables and more cables. I've read short posts, long posts, stupid posts, expert posts & smelly posts. If you care to go by all i have found. As long as your cables are constructed well, they are all doing the same thing, once you get into cables that are $40 or higher (generally speaking). Unless you feel the need to spend thousands of dollars on cables that claim to do things that can't really be done or even noticed by the human eye. If you keep your cables under 30 feet, you shouldn't have to deal with sparklies or things like that. Now as far as who to buy from online. From all i have read, which is most that is here, this is the consensus I see:
1. Blue Jeans Cables (much cheaper than other people selling the same quality materials for cabling & very upfront with what is used to make their cables) www.bluejeanscable.com
2. PC Cables (best prices, quality cables with cheap alternatives) www.pccables.com
3. RAM Electronics (nothing but praise on this company as well. They are a forum sponsor so maybe that will influence your decision, but if you want to spend the least, even RAM sells the same Component cables with Canare connectors as BlueJeans Cables, but for a noticably higher price, yet nothing near the prices of BetterCables) www.ramelectronics.com

I ordered 2 15ft. DVI->HDMI & 1 15ft. 7710A Belden Component with Canare connectors from bluejeans cables. I could have ordered the $12.00 set from pccables and probably never known the difference, but for peace of minds sake; I went with the medium price, high quality cable.
Personally from all the research I did here, I can't see a reason to order cables from anyone other than these 3 companies.

Hope this helps someone. :)

I bought a/v & hdmi cables from ram and bjc and I'll buy again from them. Also bought form cobalt cable (more $$). The only difference I saw was cobalt used heat shrink while ram/bjc used a boot. The rest seems the same cable and canare terminators. Lastly, the 7710A is a bit stiff so it's hard to manipulate it in tight spaces.

I purchased a 30 foot HDMI cable from RAM Electronics for my Panasonic S97 to Z3. Quick shipping and a great cable. It was the most expensive cable I have ever purchased - $130 - but I couldn't find one at that length for less. As for component cables, etc... I cut my own RG-6 coax and fit it with RCA connectors - works great, the cost is minimal and you won't find better performance for audio/video/digital data.

Side note - My Z3 firmware is version 0.99 - no "predator look" or lock ups with the S97 via HDMI. I've had no problems so I can't find any reason to send the unit in for a firmware update.

Speaking of long cables...

OK. So here I am putting primer on my walls for my HT area in our basement when my wife (love her to death, but....) decided that she would rather have my audio/video equipment in the "front" of my room but the projector will be in the back, obviously...

I have all of the speaker wires run to the area in the back of the room all tucked away in my nice drywalled ceiling, etc. I was just going to have to run HDMI and component video about 4 feet with that set up, but now she wants me to rerun speaker wires to a point in the front and that means that I would need to run video cables about 30 FEET to where the projector will be.

What do I do?

I am going to be getting the Sanyo Z3 projector, but I am concerned about the length of the cables and video quality.

Is it worth the cost? The layout of the room with the audio/video equipment in the front is more esthetically appealing, but the reason I was going to put stuff in the back was to keep the cost of HDMI and component cables down.

Also, what about these $60 HDMI cables on eBay? Are they crap at that length?

I checked Blue Jeans Cables and it was going to run me about $250 for the cables, plus about another $25 for more 12ga speaker cable since I don't think that I can pull the existing cable out.

HELP!

KidSmoov & Nick Buol --- According to Projector Central {www.projectorcentral.com} the output of the Z3 is in the range of 300 to 400 lumens in the low power mode and properly calibrated. I currently have a Panny L300U which has about the same output in the mode I'm using (about 350 lumens). I'm projecting on a 106" diagonal Da-Lite High Power pull down screen (Model C - gain = 1.3?) and I sit 11' (1.43 x screen width) from the screen. The picture is not too bright and also gives a reasonably good picture with some room light on (behind the screen).

I've posted screen shots on the "Panasonic PT-300U users??" thread, posts #16 & 17, page 1:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&postid=4939355#post4939355

Also, according to Projector Central, you should not be able to see the pixel structure at more than 1.3 x screen width. I don't see any with my L300. I too have white walls and ceiling, and my PJ is table mounted just behind our couch (seating position).

Nick Buol --- I noticed that you have mounted your center channel speaker above your screen. It would be sonically better to mount it below the screen. According to JBL, the center channel speaker should be no more than 1.5' above, or below, the center of the right & left speakers in order to present the correct sound stage. With your speakers you could mount the right & left speakers on pedistals so that they are (vertically) centered on the screen. I would think that lowering the center channel would be a better (easier) choice.

Nick ---

The longer the cable run (HDMI) the better quality cable you will need. Your cable bandwith goes down as the length increases (due to cable capacitance). You will be much better off sticking with your original setup (long, heavy duty, speaker cables are much better, and cheaper, than long video cables). My current setup requires 30' of cable from my D* receiver to my PJ and I would have to go longer if I burried the cables. I'm currently using the VGA connection because of cost. My other equipment (DVD player and audio stack) is along a side wall and I can get by with 24' of component cable to my PJ. This setup works for me, but I'm not using the HDTV capability of my D* reciver (I haven't upgraded my satellite dish & my PJ is not HDCP capable so I'm only watching SD TV on occasion -- 95% DVDs). When I get my LR/HT setup finished, I will probably move my satellite receiver to my side wall, along with my other audio/video gear. Also, if I can move my equipment to my other side wall, I can shorten the cables even more, but that's a future change. Right now, the only place I can fit the equipment cabinet is along my left side wall.

You might want to investigate putting your equipment on a side wall also. This would still disrupt your construction, but would cut the cable length down to something more reasonable. I agree that putting the equipment at the front or back of the room is more pleasing.

Most of the custom installations that I've seen, all put the equipment near the rear of the rooms (Home Theater magazine) or along the side near the rear of the room. Since the video bandwith requirements are high (200 MHz or so), the PQ can be degraded with long cables. Whether or not this can be significant is a matter for much debate.

By the way, I think the nice clean look of your screen wall looks great as it is. I hope this helps.

nickbuol,

I have bjc/av link hdmi cable with lenght of 30ft. I also have a 30 component cable. You have no choice but buy the hdmi but you can build your own component cable. I compared the bjc 30' hdmi cable to a 2m Monster cable from BB when I started. I did not see any difference and they almost cost the same. I also read post of 45' hdmi w/o issues.

It looks like a balancing act between cost/practicality and your love for your wife. I can guarantee you when she see's the picture she'll say WOW and forget everything.

Originally posted by CT_Wiebe


You might want to investigate putting your equipment on a side wall also. This would still disrupt your construction, but would cut the cable length down to something more reasonable. I agree that putting the equipment at the front or back of the room is more pleasing.

Most of the custom installations that I've seen, all put the equipment near the rear of the rooms (Home Theater magazine) or along the side near the rear of the room. Since the video bandwith requirements are high (200 MHz or so), the PQ can be degraded with long cables. Whether or not this can be significant is a matter for much debate.

By the way, I think the nice clean look of your screen wall looks great as it is. I hope this helps.

Thanks for all of the information. I do not have a side wall that I can use since this is all being set up in my basement and not in a dedicated HT. Due to windows, exterior walls, etc, there is nothing on the side that even lends itself to being modified to put the equipment there.

I've included a picture of the basement area in case this helps. The red area is what I am looking at. Windows are on the back wall and on the right side where is says "future expansion"....

http://ht.buol.us/images/basement_layout_s.jpg

I just want to be "ready" for Blu-Ray or HD-DVD in the future so if I need HDMI, so be it.

If I can do it and still get great picture then it comes down to if I want to spend the cash. If the quality is going to suck at 30', then my choice is already made, and I don't change anything.


Thanks!

Nice basement setup Nick...

You should hook up the MAME to the projector...you know you want to play space invaders on a 100" screen.

I had similar wife issues in my living room. I had to run a 35' component video cable (no HDMI) through the living room wall into the garage, up into the attic, and then back down through a vaulted ceiling. I got a couple of 2.5" grommets and a big funky drill bit from home depot. Total cost of about $10 (plus the Belden 1694 BJC cable of course). All wife approved.

I'm using a Z3 mounted on a DIY (monkeyman) mount with a DIY screen made out of curtain backing material. The screen is about 5' wide. Looks wonderful to me. I mostly watch DVD's and play gamecube.

Best of luck.

So it sounds like component video is OK at 30', but what about HDMI?
Anyone?

And yes, it would be cool to hook up the MAME arcade to the projector. I built a full size cabinet for it, but was smart and put it on caster wheels. I am sure that at some point I will wheel it over and plug it in to the whole system.

Looks like you did the homework... nice setup.

If your concern about the length of hdmi cable you can always get an amplifier if it's too long but 30' is ok. And like Stinkmeat said you can save $$$ by making your own mount. I saved money by just making a ceiling shelf and just staining it. It's hard to future proof everything but for a "just in case" situation, you can run an extra pvc and/or access panel for future use.

anyone with a Z3 and a DA-LITE high contrast screen and how is that working out.

zoomair,

I have the Z3 and a 100" Da-Lite HCCV Tensioned Cosmopolitan screen.

How good is it? .....I naturally had to throw everyone out about four hours after the Super Bowl ended (Alaska time). first the game....then a "let's see what an upscaled DVD movie looks like" ....and then I made the mistake of momentarily putting on an HDNet presentation of a Doobie Brothers Concert in DTS.
I may have lost my life had I turned the concert off. I had to agree with a statement from one of the guests, "I've been to a lot of concerts but this is as good or better than the best of them ( I have a killer sound system)

To answer your question, The Z3 with the Da-Lite is absolutely fantastic (for my room conditions).

Hello,
Does anyone have the specs on the component port ? can it do more then 480p ? My screenplay 4805 was only able to go up to 480p on the component port and I wan't to make sure this isnt the case before i buy the sanyo z3. Also can I run dvi out to the hdmi input on the projector is there any adaptors ?

Thanks

jondbold -- I suspect that your 4805 will only do 480p because that's what your source is sending to it. Both the 4805 and the Z3 (and most of the current generation of HT PJs) will do 720p and 1080i through the component and HDMI (or DVI) inputs IF the signal source is sending that kind of signal.

Unless you are using an "up-converting" DVD player or other HDTV source (HD OTA/Cable/Satellite Receiver or a DVDO iScan HD+ scaler), you will not get anything more than 480p (or 576p - my Panny RP91 DVD player outputs at 576p on the component lines). DVDs are recorded at 480p/576p.

Originally posted by CT_Wiebe
jondbold -- I suspect that your 4805 will only do 480p because that's what your source is sending to it. Both the 4805 and the Z3 (and most of the current generation of HT PJs) will do 720p and 1080i through the component and HDMI (or DVI) inputs IF the signal source is sending that kind of signal.

Unless you are using an "up-converting" DVD player or other HDTV source (HD OTA/Cable/Satellite Receiver or a DVDO iScan HD+ scaler), you will not get anything more than 480p (or 576p - my Panny RP91 DVD player outputs at 576p on the component lines). DVDs are recorded at 480p/576p.

Well according to the manual the component port on the 4805 only will do up to 480p if i want 720p or 1080i I have to run it through the m1 port from my understanding and the manual looks pretty clear cut on that issue. I've tried to run games over the xbox that run 1080i and 720p on my regular tv but through the m1 port it won't go over 480p. Now what I find strange though is im able to select 720p and 1080i in the xbox media center gui settings and they will run but the pj tells me the signal is coming in at 30hz and of course it's unbarable to look at.

The Z3 should do 720p and 1080i on the component inputs. I tested it using LG dvd/hdtv tuner on both component and dvi outputs. Check out the manual at http://sanyoservice.com/osb2/showitem.cfm?ItemID=plvz3&Unit=12&Category=&Message=1&I1.x=55&I1.y=9

Hopefully this answer isn't already somewhere in this thread...I did some searches but couldn't find an answer.

I'm trying to determine how far to place my Z3 from the screen. I have a target screen size, and obviously there is a 3 foot range in which I can place it to get that size using the zoom. It would be ideal logistically to place it in the middle of the range, to allow me to shrink / enlarge the screen if ever necessary.

I am unsure whether the zoom degregates the image quality in any way. Is it best to place the projector where I can get my target size using no zoom? Also, pardon my ignorance, but do the optics on the Z3 shrink as well as enlarge? IE if I want 0 zoom, do I place the zoom knob in the middle, or do I turn it all the way down?

One last thing...last night I saw a posting of someone who made a Z2 mount with Monkey_Man's design. Anyone know where that is? I'd like to see the plexiglass size he used, as well as any projector specific tips.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Jeff

I have had a Z3 for a couple of days now (after my panny 100 blew up)
I get a good image from my tosh550 DVDplayer with component inputs. I also use a HTPC. The picture is OK with the VGA/RGB input. The graphics seem OK with the DVI output from my radeon 7500, but when watching DVD with power DVD, the picture is a bit jerky. Why would it be jerky with DVI but not RGB. I am a bit of a newbie to DVI /HDMI!!!

Affeking,

I have a Z3 and I am almost certain that the zoom capacity is 30% of the screen size (total - in and out). You will attain the best image (theoretically) at the center of that range. Having said that, my zoom is around 90% and was at 100% and it looks great to me. I think the main thing is, you don't want to diffuse the image by having the projector too far back...who really wants a 20' wide screen in their living room anyways...

I have a Z3 mounted on a DIY mount based on monkeyman's design. I used a pair of .09" thick, 11" X 14" pieces of plexi. Ideally you want to get the single, .22" thick plexi (usually sold as 1/4" thick).

Things to be aware of with mounting the Z3: This projector is HEAVY. It's heavier than monkeyman's (As I recall around 25-30% heavier but not really sure) so it's even more important to make sure the projector's weight is right in the middle of the plexi or it will bend, and your image will have an irritating slope to it. You can do some adjusting with the bolts but it's limited.

Here are a couple of links (hopefully this will work):

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=1938481&fullpage=1

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=232749&highlight=l300u

If the links don't work just do a search for monkeyman...Good luck and enjoy!

Originally posted by affeking
Hopefully this answer isn't already somewhere in this thread...I did some searches but couldn't find an answer.

I'm trying to determine how far to place my Z3 from the screen. I have a target screen size, and obviously there is a 3 foot range in which I can place it to get that size using the zoom. It would be ideal logistically to place it in the middle of the range, to allow me to shrink / enlarge the screen if ever necessary.

I am unsure whether the zoom degregates the image quality in any way. Is it best to place the projector where I can get my target size using no zoom? Also, pardon my ignorance, but do the optics on the Z3 shrink as well as enlarge? IE if I want 0 zoom, do I place the zoom knob in the middle, or do I turn it all the way down?

One last thing...last night I saw a posting of someone who made a Z2 mount with Monkey_Man's design. Anyone know where that is? I'd like to see the plexiglass size he used, as well as any projector specific tips.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Jeff

If you know you dont want to ever go smaller, then put the zoom as close to 1 as possible (if the mounting locale works) . But if you want some play, then you really dont have a choice. At least that is what I have gathered from reading here.

I just bought my z3 and mounted it yesterday. I pretty much did monkey mans mount. basically we just made the plexiglass (we used black) about 1/2 inch wider then the mounting points on the sides and rear then about an inch from the front of the z3 to give plenty of room for the flange. The 1.5 inch pipe works great for cables.... I though about 2 inch but the flange part just got too big.

We cut out an area hopefully big enough from the back of the plexiglass to make it easier to remove the filter (note this is tricky as you need to get quite close to the rear mounting point. Then for the fun of it added drill holes in areas we though may want more ventilation.

I would take a pic but I dont have a dig. camera. Anyhow, the most important tidbit is that the bolt size for mounting is 6mm. The stupid manual failed to mention this and took a while of searching to figure it out. Also drill from the bottom side of the plexiglass as we ran into some problems with the plexiglass chipping by the exit point of the drill.

I also wish it came with a template of the bolt holes and such...... since we used black plexiglass it isnt transparent and made it very fun to get the bolt holes in the right spot.

After much research between the IF SP5000, the Panasonic AE700, and the Sanyo PLV-Z3, I think I am going to go with the Z3 as really, what it comes down to is image quality and I am big on contrast and shadow detail and color accuracy, hence I am not going with the AE700. Since the projector is going to be in my bedroom, I realize that some of the women that I will be entertaining in my bed might be suceptilble to the rainbow effect (happened before when I had an LT150), so as much as I love DLP, until they have affordable 3 DMD units, it is LCD all the way baby!

My only reservation with the Z3 is possible SDE within my viewing range. My room is 11 ft and the projector is going to be ceiling mounted about 10ft - 9ft from the screen over my bed. I am looking to have a 72" wide screen with the viewing distance from the head of my bed at 10ft - 9 ft (the unit will be mounted right over my face in the viewing position!!). Image will be projected to above my Sony HDTV and on to the screen which will be mounted on the opposite wall. The unit will be used mostly for DVD and HD, and very little SD as I have a tubie TV already for that.

Question is, will I see a screen door?

Originally posted by crackity
I also wish it came with a template of the bolt holes and such...... since we used black plexiglass it isnt transparent and made it very fun to get the bolt holes in the right spot.

Make yourself your own template with a piece of paper.
Make holes on a paper with a pencil where the bolt are and Voila.

Drill your plexi where the hole are on your paper and it should work.

Thanks

Fred

Originally posted by Frichard
Make yourself your own template with a piece of paper.
Make holes on a paper with a pencil where the bolt are and Voila.

Drill your plexi where the hole are on your paper and it should work.

Thanks

Fred

Well that is what I did do. Just saying it would have been nice to have them include a template.... as well as screw sizes etc. They really try to avoid ceiling mounting for the most part in the manual. Also I would suggest something more rigid then paper but that is just me.

niggenz....
my first projector and I am viewing right at 1.5x and I see no screendoor.... well this is my 1st proj so take that with a grain of salt.

Thanks guys for the tips on placement and building the mount.

I decided to place it at about 11', which will give me a 100" screen with about half zoom. I currently have projecting on a wall, and eventually (not anytime real soon), I'll be getting a screen which will be mounted about 1' closer. That means that I'll be closer to 1x zoom when that happens and I won't need to move the mount. For the time being, I think it looks fine with partial zoom. I'll tinker more, and may end up shrinking the screen a bit anyway - that's part of why I'm just using a wall right now.

A tip for lining up the holes for the mount - I put the bolts in, and colored the ends with a highliter. I then pressed it up against the wood I was using for the mount (in place of plexi) and it colored the spots for me. That's an easy way to get an exact guideline for the holes.

Jeff

I was on Froogle.com tonight looking for pricing info on the Z3 when I came across a site called InfoPlus (part of some group called Vendio) and they claim to be selling brand new Sanyo PLV-Z3 projectors for $1300 shipped for free.

Not sure what to think. With other places like ProjectorPeople selling it for $1800, it made me wonder how it is possible. I don't feel comfortable myself with a place offering it for so low, but $500 is quite a price difference.

I emailed the guy running the site and he said that they are brand new, unopened Z3s. He also confirmed that the price is in US dollars (just wanted to make sure)...

Thoughts?

Sounds pretty fishy to me. If nothing else, they are definately not an authorized dealer, so I don't think you'd get warrenty service. Usually things that sound too good to be true are....

any site that has "The Best Product whit the Best Price!!!" on its home page needs help.....

also the contact info:
InfoPlus
Via Solari no 15
Milano, 20100

I would not trust this site for the life of me.......

That's what I thought too.

I think that I will stick with reputable vendors.

I'm almost ready to make my purchase. I'm 99% sure I'm going with the z3 over the AE700. My projector will be ceiling mounted at 12' so the long throw capability of the AE700 isn't an advantage for me. One question that I may already know the answer to but I'll throw it out there to everyone else. I keep reading that the Z3 is not a light cannon. My room has no windows (basement) and lights are controlled via remote. No lights will be on when viewing except maybe lights (dimmable) over the bar area which is behind seating and projector. Do you see a problem with projector mounted at 12' for 96" screen?

Thanks

Does anyone know the pinout and protocol of the service port connector. It is supposed to provide an RS232 connection. I have contacted sanyo support and gotten no reply.

Do you see a problem with projector mounted at 12' for 96" screen?

No

I am at 10 ft for an 84" DARK gray Carada High Contrast screen. It is plenty bright. 96" might be pushing it with my screen (.8 gain) but should be fine with any other.

My Z3 is ceiling mounted about 9' from a 86" screen. I sit about 1' back from the projector so viewing distance is 10'. My room is light controlled and I am using "Natural" mode with the lamp in Theatre black mode. The picture is stunning - but I am new to projectors so I have no other experience to compare with. I do see SDE from time to time but only if I am really looking for it. I am going to experiment using the zoom to drop the picture size down a bit to see at what point the SDE disappears.

A question on PC connections. I can't use the HDMI or "VGA" ports on my Z3 as I only cabled for composite and component - bumma. However, my graphics card (nVidia 6600GT) has a TV out with a dongle that provides composite, s-video & component outs. I have tried connecting this up to the Z3 via my yammy RXV-730 - but the results are pretty ordinary at best. Has anyone done this successfully?

Anybody using a D-VHS player with their Z3/pj? You may be interested in this ... http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/34579/124304.html

I also found some interesting reading on hdmi vs dvi vs component. It probably confirms why some like one connection versus the other.
http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/34579/122868.html

Thanks for the info. I ordered the Z3 last night. Off to read the tweak thread.

I'm looking for advice on tweaking the settings of my Z3. I got it about a week ago, and the extent of my tuning has been to focus it, set the correct screen aspect, and fidle with the preset 'profiles'. I've mainly had it on video or one of the cinema settings.

I have Avia, and I plan to do some tweaking with that this weekend. I'd also be interested in any advice from owners who have already tuned their projector. I think avia will help me with contrast and color tones, but I know there are other settings specific to the Z3 such as vB. Honestly, the more I read here, the more I realize I don't know much about projectors. If anyone has seen any kind of write-up on tweaking this, and info on some of the mroe unique settings, please let me know.

Thanks,
Jeff

Originally posted by affeking
I'm looking for advice on tweaking the settings of my Z3. I got it about a week ago, and the extent of my tuning has been to focus it, set the correct screen aspect, and fidle with the preset 'profiles'. I've mainly had it on video or one of the cinema settings.

Thanks,
Jeff

Try ROne's settings in the Z3 Tweak thread for starters then adjust to your taste.

enier,

I can't seem to find the Z3 tweak thread, where abouts is it?

Enier,

That link you provided to the HDMI vs. component article was really helpful! I was planning on using a 40ft. HDMI to hook a panny s97 to my Z3, has any one used a cable this long? experienced any adverse results?

Thanks!

I'm using a 30ft HDMI cable from my S97 to Z3 with absolutely no problems. Cable is from RAM Electronics.

crab1664,

Try this link below:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=468801&highlight=z3+tweak
or do a search on "PLV-Z3 Tweak Thread".

I have no problems with 30ft hdmi which I got from bjc.

I've had my Z3 about a week now, and I'm starting to get frustrated with the focus. It looks great in many shots, but whenever the focus is on something not in a close-up, it looks out of focus to me. I've played with the focus extensively, and cannot seem to fix this.

A couple things to consider - #1, I am currrently projecting onto my wall (painted misty evening grey). #2, I don't think this was as noticable before I finished mounting it on the ceiling this weekend (could just be cause I've watched a lot more since then and didn't notice before). #3 before I had it ceiling mounted, the cables were running along the floor, now they are in the ceiling and closer (still over a foot away) to some electric wiring.

One other note - this is all based on watching DVDs using component video cables.

Obviously you can see my suspisions. Any thoughts on what it might be? Is it just that I need to hurry up and order a screen? By the way, I've played with the sharpness settings on the pj.

Thanks,
Jeff

Re: color/tint uniformity...problem solved:)

Originally posted by Big Kahuna Daddy
A fellow a.v.s forum member "pm'ed" me a solution to the tint uniformity problem. He said simply go into the menu, go to advanced settings, go to iris. The idea is to "open" the iris, and this will TOTALLY solve the tint shift.
In cinema color the iris is factory set to -38. Adjusting the level to -21 will fix the tint. Even a level of -30 made a huge difference. You can then adjust the brightness and contrast to make up for the open iris black level decrease. :) :p :) :p

enier,

That's great! Thanks again enier!!!

Jeff - How far is the projector from the wall?

Where did you get the cables? Do you know what kind they are?

I have some that I got from Blue Jeans cables running right over the power conduits that feed my whole house with no issues...35' component cables.

Where did you guys buy your power cable from? I have had no luck locating a 15 ft "mickey mouse" AC cord.

Stinkmeat -

Actually I have the exact same thing as you - 35' component cables from Blue Jeans. Mine aren't running too close to any power lines either.

The projector is 11' away, and I'm projecting about 100". I get the same thing when I put the zoom all the way down and have something like 85".

Jeff

Jeff - Well I don't know what it could be...I kinda doubt it is the power cables though or it seems like I'd have the same problem...Anybody else have any ideas? Maybe a picture would help...

Mxyztplk - I use a big ol' green extension cord with a real nice surge protector & if you're the fire marshal, I've got news for you: Stinkmeat isn't my real name! You'll never find me! MUAHAHAAA.

Canadian owners,

I'm trying to decide on an HDTV provider and I'm curious what others are using? I already use the HDMI hook up with my DVD player.

Bell Expressvu has a DVI hookup so does that mean I need to use a DVI adapter and switch between the cable box and DVD player? Is Rogers HDTV a better solution? any thoughts?

thanks,

A little bit of new info here...

I agree stinkmeat, seems unlikely its interference or the long cable in light of your situation.

I emailed tech support of the company I purchased from, and they pretty much blamed it on the wall. They also said that if I was using the zoom at all, that would be compounding the prob. As I said above, it still looks bad even with zoom at 1. Maybe its the wall...I'm not sure. My wife obtained an old overhead pj screen from her school that I'm going to test this theory with tonight.

If I'm still having probs, I'll take some screen shots to show you guys - maybe you'll just tell me I'm crazy!

Jeff

I was wondering if anyone was using a HTPC with their Z3? I am looking at the Panasonic S97S DVD player, but some people are telling me that a HTPC is the way to go. Problem is that a moderate HTPC runs about $900 more than the DVD player. Is it worth it? I wonder....

Excuse my stupidity but what is an HTPC?

Home theater PC

Jeff

Jeff,

I'll take a guess and say that your just seeing the limitation of DVD's resolution. I see the same thing with my Z3 that you describe. It's just that DVD doesn't have the resolution to provide high detail for things like faces and things like that in far away shots. When you get a closeup, it looks great because you've got so many more pixels dedicated to what you're looking at. Blowing this up on a big screen makes it all the more obvious.

Dan

An HTPC has the potential to SCALE the DVD resolution to the 720p format better than a stand alone player. However, an HTPC starts around $1.2k and you need to be a serious tweaker to beat the upscaling players. The advantage is, once you get it running, you also have a device for storing/playing music, recording TV, surfing the net, playing games, etc.

DanKaps is right, DVD is not a high resolution format. Although it will look better than anything but HDTV.

I guess I should answer your question now... :)
I have a HTPC connected to my Z3, I love it. I went the HPTC route because I wanted to play PC games, watch DVDs, surf the net, store my entire CD library on one drive and create custom playlists. Also wanted the ability to play DVD-Audio disks.
Also, the fact that HD-DVD drives are coming this year is huge for me!!

Is my understanding correct that the Z3 needs just two cables -- (1) AC power cable; and (2) video cable (in my case, component video cable)?

I'm planning to ceiling mount the Z3. Haven't yet decided whether to run the cables in plastic conduit on the wall, or behind the wall. It's a second floor room, with attic insulation above, and insulated exterior wall behind the A/V receiver.

Probably would be a neater job to run cables inside the wall, but I never fished wires before. :rolleyes:

Dan and Mxyztplk -

I can't remember if I said it in my original post, but I was also thinking DVD res was the problem as you said. It just felt that, in some cases, it should have looked a little better. I'll have to try rewatching some of these DVDs on my PC and blow up the portions that I thought looked wrong.

I am also starting to wonder if the lens is blurred. When I look at it (from the side) while its running, I swear it looks smudged the way the light is reflecting. I've cleaned it quite thoroughly with an eyeglass cloth and cleaning spray but cannot seem to clear that up. Maybe I'm just crazy...

machinehead - yes you can run the pj with only the power and component cables. Depending on what you hook up, however, you may need to also run S-Video or various other video cables. I'm not sure if this is the case with all receivers, but with mine your source has to be hooked to the receiver with the same cables that connect the receiver to the pj. I have my DVD player hooked up with component cables and my DTV box is hooked up with S-Video because it doesn't have component outputs. Personally I'd go with running the cables in the attic...good component cables are pretty bulky.

Thanks,
Jeff

(in my case, component video cable)?

Do yourself a favor and try to take advantage of the HDMI input on the PJ.
It is superior to the component inputs in everyway.

Originally posted by jefe noche
Do yourself a favor and try to take advantage of the HDMI input on the PJ.
It is superior to the component inputs in everyway.

I just got done running both component and HDMI. I don't have the Z3 yet, but I needed to get the cables run in the wall so that I have it done for when I do get the projector, so I opted to get both. It will be interesting to do A/B testing to see which is really better. I am looking at the Panny S97 DVD player which handles both component and HDMI, my new Pioneer 54TX receiver also converts S-Video and composite into component, so any old VCR I plug in, or other odd video source will run through those cables anyway, so it isn't a waste of money, I guess.

The quality of the cables is GREAT from a build point of view, but forum rules state that I can not state where I got them, sorry.

I was wondering if any Z3 owner living in San Jose would be gracious enough to help me demo their projector.

Please send me an PM.

My Z3 is on the UPS truck for delivery. I can't wait to get home from work. Time is crawling.

Z3 owners,

I have decided that If I get any projector, it will be the Z3 for many reasons (price, cleaning ability, 3 year warranty, etc.). Also, DLPs are not an option as my wife and I both have serious rainbow-itis.

I know this has been covered elsewhere, but I wanted to get some feedback from Z3 owners.

What is your experience with the Z3 with ambient light? I've heard you need to pretty much have all the lights off, but that were from projessional reviews and I wanted some real world input.

Here is my scenario:

I have a room that is 11 x 19, so I'll probably be about 11-12 feet back and then have 8 more feet behind me. I will be using a 92" screen as that is all that will fit on my wall (there is ductwork in the corners, etc). 92" is fine by me and I'm not a complete size-hound.

According the projectorcentral, the minimum throw distance for a 92" screen is 9.2 feet (so the image size would be 70" min to 92" max, which is fine). I would use the shortest throw distance as I'm assuming this would help with ambient light behind the projector (??)

Behind the projecter, I would have some hihat recessed lighting that I could hopefully use for people hanging out, playing cards, reading etc.

So my question is would I be able to have this type of lighting without completely ruining the performance of the projector?

Thanks!

Any amblient light that hits the screen is going to hurt the effective contrast. If you have the opportunity, have someone demo the projector in your intended setting. DVE has an max ambient light test screen that will give you an idea of what a tolerable amount of ambient light is.

Originally posted by jefe noche
Do yourself a favor and try to take advantage of the HDMI input on the PJ.
It is superior to the component inputs in everyway.

My understanding is that HDMI is found on high-end A/V receivers, but hasn't shown up yet on most middle and lower-end receivers. Is that still the case?

For example, one of the receivers I'm considering is the Denon AVR-1905, which has component video outputs but not HDMI.

The Z3 is a lower-end projector in cost, so I don't want to pay up for a high-end receiver just to get the HDMI feature.

I'm also concerned about the reports I read on the sensitivity of HDMI cable to signal degradation, especially as length increases. The robustness of old-fashioned analog component cables is a great thing.

Originally posted by jefe noche
Do yourself a favor and try to take advantage of the HDMI input on the PJ.
It is superior to the component inputs in everyway.

This is a matter of opinion. I personally have tried both on my Z3, and for whatever reason, my eye enjoyed the Component much better. So I left it. I know of others on here as well that prefered the Component inputs over HDMI. There are alot of variables that make up ones "Home Theater System" and very rarely are any two the same. So my advice is try both, and you be the judge.

Originally posted by Italia_NYC
This is a matter of opinion. I personally have tried both on my Z3, and for whatever reason, my eye enjoyed the Component much better. So I left it. I know of others on here as well that prefered the Component inputs over HDMI. There are alot of variables that make up ones "Home Theater System" and very rarely are any two the same. So my advice is try both, and you be the judge.

Nice point, and that is exactly why I purchased quality component cables AND HDMI so that I can use whichever looks better for DVD. Everything else I have right now will be switched to component at my receiver, so I may in the end use both.

I currently have a Da-Lite HCCV screen. I put it up and really don't like it all that much. It flattens my image and darkens the colors too much. The painted wall is actually much better. Any suggestions for a new Da-Lite screen, or should I just get a piece of drywall cut, paint that, and call it a day? I really don't want to pay a lot for the screen material, but I want something that could possibly outperform my wall (which there's really not a lot wrong with)

This is a matter of opinion. I personally have tried both on my Z3, and for whatever reason, my eye enjoyed the Component much better. So I left it. I know of others on here as well that prefered the Component inputs over HDMI. There are alot of variables that make up ones "Home Theater System" and very rarely are any two the same. So my advice is try both, and you be the judge.

I actually use almost every input on my Z3 (HDMI, RGB and component). I have two HD boxes (Dish 6000-RGB and Adelphia -DVI to HDMI) and have tried two highly regarded upconverting players (Zenith 318-Component and Sony 995-HDMI).

I have found that a digital connection minimized BOTH of the common weaknesses of an LCD projector (significantly less VB and screendoor). The image was also razor sharp when compared to component.

The simple fact that a direct digital signal is superior to a converted and re-converted signal is not a matter of opinion.

Having said that, the component inputs on the Z3 still look very good. However, I would HIGHLY suggest that you hook up whatever you view most via HDMI, whether it is DVD or HDTV. But by all means, try all the connections you can and let your own eyes decide. Ram Electronics (a sponsor of this site) makes very good cables and has a nice return policy.

FWIW, HDMI cables are easily plugged and unplugged. I run an HD box and dvd player and do not use a switcher. It takes me about two seconds to pull the cable out of one box and put in it the other.

Originally posted by Italia_NYC
This is a matter of opinion. I personally have tried both on my Z3, and for whatever reason, my eye enjoyed the Component much better. So I left it. I know of others on here as well that prefered the Component inputs over HDMI. There are alot of variables that make up ones "Home Theater System" and very rarely are any two the same. So my advice is try both, and you be the judge.

I agree with others comments that it is not a matter of opinion that the component signal can be better than HDMI, it is a matter of what equipment you are using to supply the HDMI signal.

HDMI is superior to component in every measureable factor providing you are supplying a properly setup Z3 a good qualtiy HDMI signal.

I have heard that HDMI is considered "the best" because, after all, it is a digital signal from start to finish, and doesn't need to be converted... I thought so too, but now I wonder if it is. There are many write-ups on the internet about DVI and HDMI vs. component. The theory is sound, but in practice, many times, the component video is better. It depends on the source (DVD, D-VCR, HD-tuner, etc) and the display unit. A good combination can yield superior picture, but a bad combination can frustrate people and goes to show that just because it is digital (DVI & HDMI) doesn't make it better. Plus, HDMI and DVI are also a popular move for the movie industry as it allows for the transmission of digital copy protection. The signal is encoded at the source with the copy protection, sent along the DVI or HDMI cable, and then decoded at the display unit. So the argument that DVI doesn't go through a digital to analog to digital conversion may be true, but it does go through encoding and decoding which adds overhead. Plus it is said that a digital connection runs into length of cable issues sooner than an analog component signal.

Lots to think about, and again, these are not my answers, but things that I ran into on the internet by reputible cable manufacturers, as well as video equipment write ups from respected trade magazines.

I just don't want someone to think that just because it is digital it is ALWAYS better. When I get my Z3, I anticipate that the HDMI link from a Panasonic S97 will be better than the component connection, but I ran both just in case. Plus the component cable allows for connection of a VCR, or other analog video source.

Good luck. I am sure that at some point in the near future it WILL be clear cut that the HDMI will be the best route to go (until the next advancement in technology), but for now, as you will hear all over the AVS forums, success has been hot or miss...

Originally posted by jefe noche
Having said that, the component inputs on the Z3 still look very good. However, I would HIGHLY suggest that you hook up whatever you view most via HDMI, whether it is DVD or HDTV. But by all means, try all the connections you can and let your own eyes decide. Ram Electronics (a sponsor of this site) makes very good cables and has a nice return policy.

FWIW, HDMI cables are easily plugged and unplugged. I run an HD box and dvd player and do not use a switcher. It takes me about two seconds to pull the cable out of one box and put in it the other. [/B]

This question will expose me as the total newbie I am ... but I can just run the video cable (whether HDMI or component) directly from a DVD player to the Z3 projector, right? In other words, there is no necessity to use the video source switching function of the A/V receiver ... and maybe it's even preferable not to, to avoid extra connections and possible bandwidth limits inside the receiver? The A/V receiver can just amplify the 7.1 channel sound, and doesn't need to know or care about the video connection?

My brief search (I'm still in pre-purchase research phase here) didn't turn up any low-priced A/V receivers with HDMI input and output. Maybe it's a different story with DVD players ... one of the DVD players I'm looking at has a DVI-D (HDCP compatible) output. Frankly, I don't know what that means. Will the Z3 projector accept the DVI-D protocol and connector style as an HDMI signal input? :confused:

Originally posted by machinehead
This question will expose me as the total newbie I am ... but I can just run the video cable (whether HDMI or component) directly from a DVD player to the Z3 projector, right? In other words, there is no necessity to use the video source switching function of the A/V receiver ... and maybe it's even preferable not to, to avoid extra connections and possible bandwidth limits inside the receiver? The A/V receiver can just amplify the 7.1 channel sound, and doesn't need to know or care about the video connection?

My brief search (I'm still in pre-purchase research phase here) didn't turn up any low-priced A/V receivers with HDMI input and output. Maybe it's a different story with DVD players ... one of the DVD players I'm looking at has a DVI-D (HDCP compatible) output. Frankly, I don't know what that means. Will the Z3 projector accept the DVI-D protocol and connector style as an HDMI signal input? :confused:

Absolutely correct. I am just going to use my receiver to combine multiple lower end (VCR and so forth) video sources and switch them to component for me. For HDMI, it will go direct from the DVD player to the projector. If some time in the future I end up with mulitple HDMI sources, I will deal with it at that time. I could even just have the VCR go direct via the component cables, but since my VCR doesn't have component, I am stuck there. Again, the receiver would switch the signal to component so that I just have the 2 sets of cables running to the Z3.

SO in short, you are correct. Just do a direct connection from your DVD (or whatever source) to the Z3. No problems there.

PS. Missed the DVI connection question.

You will need an adaptor to go from DVI to HDMI. They are less than $30 and very easy to find. I think that some of the AVS sponsors that sell cable sell these adaptors.

Thanks, nickbuol, for your explanation.

Originally posted by machinehead
Thanks, nickbuol, for your explanation.

No problem. I was in your situation a while back, and I remember that when researching a new area of this whole hobby, sometimes I would read something that sounded like it contradicted what I had thought or heard somewhere else. While I am no expert, I'm on my second home theater for myself, and I have helped a coworker and 2 relatives do their's. They relied on me to research everything based off of their needs, so most of it was new territory for me.

Just ask any question around here, and people are always eager to answer, or point you to a thread on the subject.

Good luck!

Get everyone....

I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a Z3. Feature wise, it seems to offer the best bang for the buck considering my purchase. My only concern is throw distance. I'm looking to go for a 100" to 110" screen with a throw distance of around 14".

Any problems with this approach?

Thx,
Vidkidd

You could check out Projector Central and use their throw calculator....

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Sanyo-PLV-Z3-projection-calculator-pro.htm

It shows that at a 14' throw, you can get a 107" - 139" screen depending on zoom.

It recommends 110" or greater so that the image isn't too bright, but that can also be controlled by reducing the gain of the screen if you haven't bought one yet. (assuming you havn't since you are not set on size yet.)

Thanks Nick..

I actually jumped over to PJC after I posted the message and it confirmed that the Z3 is probably the best for my needs. I'll be running it through a HTPC that is shared with a 65" Sony GWIII XBR950. I guess it's time to start setting up the Screen, Mount and cable run.

Any recommendations on a good mount? Im not up for hacking one together and will probably spend around 100-150.

I'll probably be building my screen as there is a lot of great info over in the DIY section Especially when starting with a 4x8 sheet of material.

Thx,
Vidkidd

Any recommendations on a good mount? Im not up for hacking one together and will probably spend around 100-150.

Check out this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=516642

Originally posted by niggenz
Check out this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=516642

But does it work with the Z3?

It claims to work with all projectors under 20 pounds, but I don't have my projector yet, but would like to get the mount squared away. With a 14 day return policy, if it doesn't fit, I won't be able to return in since I won't have the projector to test with for a few more weeks.

You could build this mount if you don't mind DIY. This guy built it for a Z1 but it can be used for Z3. I just built one for my Z3 this weekend.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?threadid=233598 (http://)

Just a word of warning for you, machinehead. That HDMI/DVI adapter may not work for this projector by itself. The problem is that the part that sticks out of the adapter is just not long enough to reach into the recessed HDMI port on the back of the projector. What I had to do was get a DVI/HDMI (dual female) converter, a long DVI cable (male to male), and as small a HDMI cable as I could find (male to male as well).

Just a word of warning for you, machinehead. That HDMI/DVI adapter may not work for this projector by itself. The problem is that the part that sticks out of the adapter is just not long enough to reach into the recessed HDMI port on the back of the projector. What I had to do was get a DVI/HDMI (dual female) converter, a long DVI cable (male to male), and as small a HDMI cable as I could find (male to male as well).

There are two other solutions:

1. Just use a DVI to HDMI cable (no adaptor)

2. Get a DVI to HDMI adapter and instal it at the DVI source. Then run an
HDMI cable to the PJ.

I chose option 2 because I run both a DVI HD box and an HDMI dvd player to the PJ and do not have a switcher. HDMI are MUCH EASIER to unplug and plug than DVI cables.

At any rate, I can't see any reason to plug any kind of adapter into the PJ itself.

BTW KidSmoov: Did you choose your way because long DVI runs are better than long HDMI runs...out of curiousity? (My cable run is only 9 ft)

Hi all,

I've been using my new Z3 for the last 3 days and I'm surprised by how loud the fan noise is, I have it ceiling mounted about 2 feet in front of my chair and even in Theater black mode it's very noticable. I'm curious if anyone else has had any problems? I don't want to send it to Sanyo unless this is a common problem that can be fixed.

Thanks.

It's not as silent as my old 21" tube tv, :). I can only hear it on whisper dialog. My Z3 is also ceiling mounted in about the same location from seating area. An spl meter that goes down to 20db is you're best bet for testing.

My Z3 is ceiling mounted and I occasionally notice the fan noise - but only in quiet passages in a movie.

My solution - crank up the volume.

btw I use Creative Cinema mode which in turn uses A2 lamp mode - meaning that the fan speed changes as the amount of light required increases (I assume).

I was talking with a dealer yesterday. They mentioned that the Z3 uses Sony LCD's and that the Panny uses Epson LCD's.

Everyone who buy from them over the net buys the Panny. Anyone who comes into the store buys the Z3. I have been leading towards the Z3, and will probably order mine today.

Is anyone out there running on a 110 or so inch screen? Im probably looking at hitting 119" based on my throw distance and the screen im getting.

Thx,
Thomas


Thx,
Vidkidd

What is the prefered method for connecting a PC to the Z3?

I ultimately want to build a HTPC, but right now I just want to pull my desktop PC over temporarily and try one of those Microsoft HD DVDs (I've yet to see anything in HD on the proj). My vid card has S-Video out in addition to the VGA port.

I'm assuming the best option is to connect via the VGA port - correct me if I'm wrong. If so, is that a cable I can pick up at any electronic store? I guess it'd be a female to female cable...not sure I've seen those.

Long term, what type of output should I be looking for when I purchase a vid card for my HTPC?

Thanks,
Jeff

The Z3 looks great with VGA or DVI. I orginally had my HTPC hooked up via DVI to HDMI (Sapphire 9600 video card) but switched to VGA so I could connect my Hughes HD-sat receiver via DVI. With VGA over PC, the Z3 automatically locks to the video card (timing, etc).

I would get a card with both VGA and DVI for the slight chance that the new High Def DVD drives will use them, HDCP will be a problem though.

Originally posted by crab1664
Hi all,

I've been using my new Z3 for the last 3 days and I'm surprised by how loud the fan noise is, I have it ceiling mounted about 2 feet in front of my chair and even in Theater black mode it's very noticeable. I'm curious if anyone else has had any problems? I don't want to send it to Sanyo unless this is a common problem that can be fixed.

Thanks.

The amount of noise you here depends on three things:

1 The speed that the fan is running at. This should be low in theater black mode, but if the ambient temperature in the room is high, then the fan will speed up.

2 The ambient sound level in the room. I find if my windows are open and there is a bit of outside noise coming in, then I cannot here the projector at all. But if all the windows are closed and it is silent in the room, then I can clearly hear the fan. It is not loud, but it is audible.

3 How acute your hearing and sensitivity is. Many people have some level of hearing loss and will swear that their projector is silent. Those with better hearing know the difference.

FWIW I think the Z3 is the quietest projector that I have ever heard. but I can clearly here it in quiet passages of a movie, but I can also here the DVD player and the Tivo and the cable DVR as well.

Hello Guys,
I only read about 6 pages or so randomly.

I am thinking of the AE700, but the more I think about it, maybe I am better off with the Sanyo ? As a super n00b, I am sure ANY image will look great to me.. I have a thread going about what I should do for my situation. To summarize, small room, short distance, total light control, sports HD lover...



So how does the Z3 look with football and sports in HD ?

How does it compare to the AE700 ? Is the price difference justified ?

If you could get either one, price no object, would you still choose Z3 ?


maybe I have to do it -

thanks

Thanks for all your reponses about the fan noise it makes me feel alot better knowing that my unit is probably as loud as everyone elses.

Richard, thanks for that bit of info on the fact that Creative Cinema automatically runs on the A2 lamp mode as I couldn't figure out why everytime i restarted my projector it was changed out of Cinema black mode.

High Def TV is blowing my mind!!!!!!!

Hey Silroc,

Im on the fence like you but will be pulling the trigger on the Z3 on monday with a 119" screen with a throw distance of around 14'8" In talking with a dealer, everyone who buys from the internet based on reviews and feedback buys the Panasonic. Customers who come into the store and see the Z3 and AE700 side by side buy the Z3.

Some of the points pushing me towards the Z3
There is no vertical banding on the Z3. Something I see very easily.
3 Year warranty on the Ze vs 1 year on the Panasonic
Works for my throw distance
No Image "smoothing" I want a pure picture from HD and my HTPC I deal with this "image improvement" on my Sony XBR950 and I want a crisp and clean picture.

The dealer I'm getting the projector and screen from, projectorpackages, manufactures their own screens. They only have a bit of experience as their work can be seen in every IMAX theatre worldwide. Although he's retired from the big screen, he's taken his experience to the home screen.

*** NOTE ****
Im interested to hear what size of image everyone else is projecting their Z3 at? Im wondering if a 119" screen is too much for this PJ?


Thx,
Vidkidd

So that's it !!!

I ordered this puppy just 5 minutes ago !!!



no negative talk allowed about the Z3 from here on out !!! haha !!!


so now -

I need a mount !!! Any advice ????

thanks

(soo damn excited)

Hey Silroc,

I ordered the Mount one on the previous page on Friday. For the price, it's a great unit and compares to units within twice its price. What areyou going to do for a screen?

Thx,
Vidkid

Vidkid,
The current screen I am using is a home made special.

Bought a 4x8 piece of whiteboard from home depot and had it cut to 4x6 - I painted it eggshell and mounted it in front of my boiler room doors (quickly removable as needed)

tomorrow, I am going to the depot to get a small can of behr silverscreen. i have not a clue how this will look on a Z3, but i am willing to experiment with it.

thanks for the mount suggestion

Hey Silroc,

I was going to make my own screen, but my wife encouraged me to get one professionally made. I can't complain here. Now I just have to figure out my audio setup. All my audio gear is in the Family room with the GWIII XBR.

Thx,
Vidkidd

Just got back from the dept

got the paint, drywall cutter, blank switchplate..

all ready

now i just need PJ, mount (ordered) and wires (ordered)

wOOt !!

I've been having a problem with my projector when it's hooked up to the HDTV box and I'm wondering if anyone else is experiencing this?

When I change channels on the HDTV box (it's a Scientific Atlantic-Explorer 8300HD) If one program is televised in 480i and the other 1080i (or 720) the projector goes thru this weird exercise of changing formats (showing a section of the incoming channel), showing digital noise and then it clicks in to showing the channel properly, it lasts only 2 or 3 seconds but it's annoying. (At first I thought it was the cable box but the cable company assured me it wasn't) however today as it was doing all this hiccuping the projector just froze in the middle of it and I had to power down, making think that it is the projector?

Any ideas??

Does anyone know the contact number or email for Sanyo?

Thanks,

What interface do you have it hooked up over?

My Z3 is in transit and will be here Friday.

I look forward to tweaking this puppy. Is there a difinitive service menu giude available?

Thx,
Vidkidd

crab1664 are you using the hdmi output from the z3 if so you may have to get the software update.software version 1.01 is the most recent update i do believe this will stop the projector from locking up.you will have to call sanyo canada service department.by the way did you get your z3 a laserland.thats where i picked mine up.

I do have it hooked up with the HDMI, a 40ft one actually. But I don't think that's causing the problem because the picture is just so sharp. I think the software update sounds like the solution, I know within this thread there's a formula for checking your software version so I'll look it up.

I always assumed the software update was only if your were using a HTPC?

Do you have to send the projector in to have it updated?

I went to the Sanyo Canada website, I can't seem to see any service contact info?

I bought the projecter at Quebec Acoustics.

Thanks,

So how do I check the firware version on this puppy ? (arrived today !!)

Also, what are some good settings for TV, DVD and gaming ? (i Know , I should do a search)

edit - found it

version 1.01

Guys:

What are the supported resolutions on the VGA (Computer) Input of the Z3?

I am particularly interested in 1080i, 720p, 576p, 480p going into VGA, not computer resolutions.

Thanks.

What are the supported resolutions on the VGA (Computer) Input of the Z3?

All that you mentioned are supported, and the VGA input is very good on the Z3 (I run my Dish 6000 HD box through it).

Along the lines of the VGA on the Z3: Does anyone know how to introduce overscan? The overscan setting is not available through the VGA menu.

There is a strange problem with my HDMI input. I connected Z3 to Meridian G98DH dvd transport and watched a film (720p) without any problems. Two days later I decided to watch a movie again, but Z3 didn't get any signal from player.

Between these two sessions I tried different Z3 S-Video settings with cable box, but I suppose this shouldn't cause any harm? I've tried with two high class HDMI-HDMI cables and result is the same: blue screen.

Does anyone have same kind of problem or any suggestions... Thanks!

I'm assuming that you have switch back to HDMI input on the Z3. If you have another player with hdmi output try it to be sure that it's not the G98H. Also try the G98H's component cable output. Is the Z3's hdmi input the only one not working?

Of course I can't be sure it's Z3 and not G98 which is not working, but Z3 was the only one I used (with cable box) between these two sessions. So I assume it's Z3 which is not ok. All other inputs in Z3 are working with G98, but not HDMI anymore.

I don't have other players but G98 with HDMI output.

It looks like you have a 50-50 chance of finding the unit in issue since both the G98H non-hdmi output is working and Z3's non-hdmi inputs are working. Maybe if you have a CC or BestBuy around you can get a upscaling-hdmi dvd player and return it later just to be sure it's the Z3 or vice versa. Also, if you both the Z3 locally then maybe you can borrow from them a hdmi capable dvd player. With direct hdmi connection between the two, I don't see other units causing your problem as you also have assumed. The blue screen usually means no signal.

Sorry, I'm not much help. This happenned to me but the cause was my kid palying with the remote. She press C2 w/o my knowledge causing me to unplug and plug all the cables. On with The Incredibles...

Thank you for your suggestions enier. I try to find another projector or display and check if it works. This is very strange problem, because I saw it working in the beginning and suddenly it doesn't.

Well, fortunately component input works well and picture is fantastic...

Can someone explain to me how the DVD works with regards to picture sizes, and which DVD’s I should begin purchasing?



I have this stupid question because I have several DVD’s that are 4:3 formatted. I bought them as full screen versions since I was a 4:3 TV person. When I watched a few of these movies last night, the Z3 has them stretched to fit the screen which is ok for me. But then I put in some 16:9 formatted movies, and these did NOT fill my screen. I wonder why ? I tried to mess with the DVD player, but I did not find any settings. Since I don’t have my cables yet, I hooked it up composite. But I don’t believe that matters.?

So in other words, can you let me know what I should be doing to watch 16:9 movies, in full screen on the Z3? (without using the zoom function) Shouldn’t 16:9 movies inherently fill the screen for a 16:9 projector?

TIA

Are your movies not filling in the screen on the top and bottom? Not all widescreen DVD's are 16:9. You could have a 2.35 movie format which would give you black bars on top and bottom.

That's right. Widescreen does not always mean 16:9 aspect ratio. There's also a 1.85:1 aspect ratio. Check out The Incredibles... I believe it's 2.35:1 aspect ratio. A pretty good movie.

Originally posted by enier
That's right. Widescreen does not always mean 16:9 aspect ratio. There's also a 1.85:1 aspect ratio. Check out The Incredibles... I believe it's 2.35:1 aspect ratio. A pretty good movie.

Actually, The Incredibles is at 2.39:1... First time I have personally seen that ratio, but even on a large screen (100") that is like an inch wider is all, so for most practical purposes 2.35:1 is close enough...

You are right on the mark though that it is a fun movie!

ok - I assumed widescreen meant 16:9....




new question

when I view DVD's in anything other than 420i I get all funky crap onscreen...

I could have sworn my DVD player was progressive scan - Is this an indication that it is not progressive scan ?


One last question - I cannot seem to get my receiver to output video on aything besides the s video "monitor" output.

Even though I have a component output

what gives ?? frustrating as hell

My DVD player has a little button on it that says "progressive scan". I had to turn it on. Maybe you just need to play with the settings on your DVD player...

no button for me - oh well , i guess i dont have it


edit -

just checked - it is a Panasonic DVD-A320 DVD Player with interlaced and not progressive

LOL

talk about old - i just assumed it had it.....

doh
time to buy a new one

silroc, some receivers do not do video switching from s-video to component. Thus, the component output is basically for component inputs. I believe my 3803 (circa 2002) was one of the early ones that did. The component output does not guarantee good image to the Z3 if your source is not good like my vcr.

As for dvd player, I'm using the Panasonic S97 to upscale to 720p on hdmi. I wanted the Denon 2910 but the My Commander-in-Chief did not agree with budget (after spending on Z3). Anyway, it is working out great for me. I'm only missing the sacd format which has no bearing at this time.

Well it's all here.. Im a matter of hours from Driving the new Z3 thats sitting under my desk at work with my HTPC..... WooHoo!

Thx,
Vidkidd

Ok... HDMI has cropping like the AE700 over an HTPC. Additionally, the image is not 1:1 and my setup is having a hard time adjusting the timings to get a true 1:1 output from the device. HDMI on this device is definitely not ready for primetime.....

But going over VGA, the image is flawless @ 1280x720p and can be setup to deliver a perfect image that blows my Sony GWII XBR 950 60" set out of the water at 2x the size. Im running at 120" right now projected on a light purple wall. My screen arrives next week. Needless to say, the image is stunning.

Back to my mounting....

Later!
VIdkidd

Originally posted by vidkidd
Ok... HDMI has cropping like the AE700 over an HTPC. Additionally, the image is not 1:1 and my setup is having a hard time adjusting the timings to get a true 1:1 output from the device. HDMI on this device is definitely not ready for primetime.....

But going over VGA, the image is flawless @ 1280x720p and can be setup to deliver a perfect image that blows my Sony GWII XBR 950 60" set out of the water at 2x the size. Im running at 120" right now projected on a light purple wall. My screen arrives next week. Needless to say, the image is stunning.

Back to my mounting....

Later!
VIdkidd

By default, overscan is set to 10% on the Z3 when using HDMI. IIRC, somewhere in the advanced menu of the colour or image menu you will find overscan, set it to 0

HTH

Conor

vidkidd -- Have fun with your Z3.

I hate to rain on your parade, but the Z3 does not use Sony LCD panels. It uses the same Epson D4 panels as the AE700. I just wanted to correct this error for others who are reading these last pages.

congrats vidkid -



here is my update

Got the progresive DVD, and am borrowing my neighbors HD Cable box (mine arrives Tuesday)

CBS high def is absolutely stunning. (basketball) The other channels high def is just very good. (not the PJ fault) Everything is using component for now. No image issues. I loaded some 720p xbox games and i am in awe.


question, can someone explain if I should switch to HDMI for the cable box ? Can the picture look better than it is with the component connection? What about these HDMI issues?

TIA

Please check out this post and try to help us out. (Post #91)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=5357658#post5357658

Thanks,

Hi Guys,

Is there an actual hour meter on the Z3? I cant seem to find it anywhere. It just has the bulb replacement indicator it seems...

Also, I miscalculated my screen size and right now the projector is on my back wall of the room (12 feet wide) and shooting a screen about 88". I can see some "screen door" pixelation at this distance but cant go any smaller, the zoom is all the way out. I really dont want to have it on my coffee table but was wondering if anyone has comment about HD tv and upconverted DVD players vs standard DVD's. I have a regular 480p DVD right now and i'm debating an upconverting model. My one dilemma is I just bought a Denon 1905 receiver that does composite to component upconvert (which I need for my current laserdisc and cable box to go out the single component cable to the projector) and all the upconverting DVD players I've looked at (denon, samsung, etc) use the digital connection and not the composite. I'd rather keep my one composit if possible and use my receiver for switching. If HiDef TV and upconverted DVD's look that much better with my picture, i'd definitely go that route. Otherwise I was contemplating switching to an AE700 which has a zoom that would get my screen a little smaller.

I have skimmed through this thread and other threads concerning the Z3 and the Panasonic S97. But all I got was confused...

Can someone give me clear answers:

1) Is HDMI on S97 bad with Z3? People seem to report that it is noise and that component and even s-video is better from S97!

2) Is s97 and Z3 a good or a bad combo? Anything I should know?

One guy in another thread compared Minority Report on HD with Minority Report on DVD, both on Z3 with S97. With component and even s-video, there was almost no difference. With HDMI, DVD was much worse.

Is the Z3 at fault here? Or the S97? Or are other factors at work here?

/David

1adam12 - I can say HDTV content looks excellent

I sit about 96 inches from a 70 inch diagnonal

(with my eyeglasses on) I see no screen door at all in high def...

granted, my vision is not perfect

Originally posted by pinkfloydhomer
I have skimmed through this thread and other threads concerning the Z3 and the Panasonic S97. But all I got was confused...

Can someone give me clear answers:

1) Is HDMI on S97 bad with Z3? People seem to report that it is noise and that component and even s-video is better from S97!

2) Is s97 and Z3 a good or a bad combo? Anything I should know?

One guy in another thread compared Minority Report on HD with Minority Report on DVD, both on Z3 with S97. With component and even s-video, there was almost no difference. With HDMI, DVD was much worse.

Is the Z3 at fault here? Or the S97? Or are other factors at work here?

/David

I am hoping to find out the answers to these questions myself. I had actually heard from some people that the S97 and Z3 are a great combo. I read it enough that I just bought these 2 units. The S97 should be here Wednesday and the Z3 should be here Thursday. Problem is that I am going to be out of town for the Easter weekend, and I won't have a screen for a couple of weeks as I am trying to finalize screen size and ratio.

I find S97 a good match to Z3. I've connected S97 to Z3 using component & hdmi. Hdmi is directly connected while component cable is connected thru the receiver for switching. Both are 35' long cables from bjc. Just make sure to also adjust the S97's brightness & contrast when calibrating btb. I found that the Z3 does not produce btb using dve without adjusting the S97 too.

Check out the Featured Articles in eCoustics.com for hdmi vs component. There's also a review in hometheaterhifi.com on a bjc component cable.

Originally posted by enier
I find S97 a good match to Z3. I've connected S97 to Z3 using component & hdmi. Hdmi is directly connected while component cable is connected thru the receiver for switching. Both are 35' long cables from bjc. Just make sure to also adjust the S97's brightness & contrast when calibrating btb. I found that the Z3 does not produce btb using dve without adjusting the S97 too.

Check out the Featured Articles in eCoustics.com for hdmi vs component. There's also a review in hometheaterhifi.com on a bjc component cable.

My setup uses BJC cables too. Same scenario. HDMI direct to Z3, component will be switched at the receiver (Pioneer 54TX). My runs are only 15'... Just waiting on Z3 and S97 to show up this week...

I hear that cable quality is a big issue with HDMI (it is a little "touchy"), but I have no personal experience with it yet since this is my first HDMI run.

I have the Z3 mounted, hooked to our HTPC and Comcast HD Cable box. The Image quality is awesome, when just shooting an image on a light purple/grey wall. Can't wait to see what it looks like on my Severtson 119" screen when it arrives. We watched a bunch of recorded and OTA HD material as well as a couple of DVD's including Shrek and the Incredibles.

Thanks for the feedback on the HDMI Overscan Adjustment and the correction on the panel manufacturer on the Z3. I can see why they have overscan for HDMI, you can seen garbage on some edges of 4:3 material broadcast over HD signals.

I wanted to avoid the overscan as anytime you scale a digital image in small % increments, it distorts the pixel map and you get Horizontal and Vertical bands of "fuzz" something I can pick up on very easily.

I', running with a 30' DVI/HDMI cable from PCCABLES, Component and VGA, all of which a re great quality, they wont empty your wallet and I see no issues in these cables vs a High Quality 6' cable.

Thx,
Vidkidd

A Z3 review at UltimateAV website...

http://www.ultimateavmag.com/videoprojectors/305sanyo/

This review is worded more kindly than the actual findings would suggest. It's pretty clear that in an attempt to compete with Panasonic and Sony, Sanyo changed their marketing literature at the last moment to falsely claim that the unit had a dynamic iris that would achieve 2000:1 contrast ratio. Also, the brightness reported by this reviewer (7 FtL) and the gray scale tracking (8000 @ 90 IRE) is among the worst published results I've seen for modern digital projectors.

I'm getting my HD cable box this week. Looking forward to results.

What upconverting DVD player are people running on here with the Z3? Any feedback positive or negative and through what cable?

Originally posted by TomHuffman
This review is worded more kindly than the actual findings would suggest. It's pretty clear that in an attempt to compete with Panasonic and Sony, Sanyo changed their marketing literature at the last moment to falsely claim that the unit had a dynamic iris that would achieve 2000:1 contrast ratio. Also, the brightness reported by this reviewer (7 FtL) and the gray scale tracking (8000 @ 90 IRE) is among the worst published results I've seen for modern digital projectors.

First of all, Sanyo hasn't stated anywhere that Z3 has a dynamic iris.
Secondly, the review is hard for me to take serious, positive or negative. There are several things they haven't accounted for or tried, such as a seriously calibrated source, which for all we know could account for the crushing they see.
Thirdly, others have found results contrary to the ones you state. So who is right? By the account many serious people, the Z3 is the better projector when compared to it's immediate competition such as AE700 and the like.

/David

First of all, Sanyo hasn't stated anywhere that Z3 has a dynamic iris.

Quoting from the review: "Sanyo representatives informed me that the PLV-Z3 does include such an automatic or dynamic iris, and a Sanyo press release does refer to it."

BTW, I'm not claiming anything about this PJ. I haven't even seen it in action, much less tested it. I'm merely quoting from what Ultimate AV reports.

Originally posted by TomHuffman
Quoting from the review: "Sanyo representatives informed me that the PLV-Z3 does include such an automatic or dynamic iris, and a Sanyo press release does refer to it."

Representatives means a lot of things and a lot of "representatives" don't know the first thing about the products of the company. This goes not only for Sanyo but for all companies (Look at what people have been told by Panasonic "representatives" in the AE700 thread).

I haven't seen any offical Sanyo press release material mentioning a dynamic iris. But I could be wrong, of course.

/David

I haven't seen any offical Sanyo press release material mentioning a dynamic iris. But I could be wrong, of course.



Here is a link that does mention it in several places(page 5 for example). As a matter of fact, "Automatic" and "motorized" iris definitely gets mentioned :

http://www.visualsystemsgroup.com/ProductSupport/PLV-Z3.pdf

Well, "motorized" is not a lie. How do you think the iris operates itself when you go from 0 to -63 in the menu?

"Auotmatic iris" is not mentioned in that paper either.

But I do agree that they several times write something to the effect that the iris is adjusted according to current picture content, which is not true.

/David

guys

so what motorized noise do I hear when I switch from different settings ? I thought that was an iris opening and closing !! LOL

:D

"Auotmatic iris" is not mentioned in that paper either.



Actually they do, take another look at page 5 of 8 . "optimum depth at all times thanks to automatic iris function".

Then again with:

"The automatically adjusting iris diaphragm - an important component of the Sanyo TOPAZreal technology - ensures that the contrast and depth of projected images is increased at those crucial moments".

Sounds automatic to me... :)

BTW, the Z3 is at the top of my list. I don't really care about semantics, I care about value in terms of picture quality and how well a company stands behind its product. Not only does the Z3 throw a great picture, it has a three year warranty as well. Right now that seems pretty important in my book, especially since my L300u's panels are failing and Panasonic does not want to replace them because it's 20 months old. Maybe LCD panels are better now, maybe they are not. All I know is that I don't want to get bit again.

Well put, no matter how great a pj's specs are it still has to perform.

Originally posted by 1adam12
I'm getting my HD cable box this week. Looking forward to results.

What upconverting DVD player are people running on here with the Z3? Any feedback positive or negative and through what cable?

I use the Sony DVP-NS975V connected by 20' HDMI cable to the Z3, projected on a Da-Lite 80" Theater Lite screen. It's great. The DVD player has had problems with the tray locking (search DVD player forum here for more details), requiring a trip back to the service center for a firmware update, but the picture is amazing.

After searching for months I've finally decided on the Z3. Now the problem is where to get it. I don't want to violate any rules, but I was leaning towards one of the AVS sponsers, whose initials are V/A. The problem is their website seems to say that Sanyo products aren't covered by any replacement policies should the projector arrive not working. Is this really true? Anyone else have this problem, or isn't it a big deal? One of their competitors offers a 14 day replacement assurance, which goes a long way when making an expensive purchase. My mount and cables are on their way, so I'd appreciate any thoughts. Thanks!

floridapoolboy, can you pm me with the info on where you are thinking of buying and the pros and cons of each place to help save me a little time:) I would greatly appreciate it. I have decided on this PJ as well, but dont know where to buy and would appreciate if you could let me know what you have found out. Thanks.

I bought from there, I can't believe this is true. I would call and talk to them and get the details.

Toe, I sent you a PM, hope it helps. I received an e-mail confirmation from "the competitor", stating that they will replace the projector for the first 14 days should a problem develop. Very cool! V/A has yet to respond, I'll call them tomorrow and get the straight scoop. I hope that the website policy isn't true, nothing could be worse than a D.O.E. projector and no recourse than to send it in for repair! I believe in service after the sale, otherwise all we would look for is the lowest price!

I just received an e-mail from V/A, in which they state that "all repairs must go through the manufacturer. That's the way Sanyo wants us to handle their products." Bummer! They sounded very sincere when they offered to help expedite things should a problem develop, and to provide whatever technical support might be needed. Unfortunately, I don't think that will be sufficient, most likely nothing would be wrong with the projector, but you just never know... If only I wanted the Pan. 700, this wouldn't be an issue! Oh yeah, but then I'd have vertical banding!

As long as the dealer that you buy from is an authorized Sanyo dealer, you should have no problems.

Sanyo provides excellent service. They have a program where they will over night your projector both ways at THIER OWN COST. Don't take my own word for it. Search the forums and you will see you are fine.

How have the bulbs been holding out on the Z3?
Have there been many complaints of short bulb life?
Thanks.

I ordered from V/A last Friday after my horror story with A&M (see thread under Home Theater General section). They were very helpful on the phone and seem to be a good, solid company. They are also, as noted above, an AVS Alliance Member, so as a company they are good.

The way I look at it is that a lot of companies say that you have to deal with the manufacturer after the sale, even for DOA/broken parts (since I am talking about non-A/V stuff too). It is a bummer though that after dropping some good money on a piece of equipment like the Z3 that you are left dealing with Sanyo direct right from the start.

I just hope that when my projector comes it works 100%. I don't know if I could wait any longer after waiting years to get to this point.

Oh well, there are more important things in life to worry about, I guess.

Thanks to AVS I've learned alot about projectors, now I'm learning how to buy one! I never took into account shipping charges, or the fact that Sanyo offers an express turnaround program where they pay shipping both ways. Based on that, and their great reputation, I'm going with V/A for my projector. All things being equal I want to patronize AVS alliance members first. Thanks for your help!

floridapoolboy,

There's a site sponser (PP) that sells the Z3 and is in your state. You would have to pay sales tax, but there service is pretty good. I originally order from VA and after not getting an email confirming shipping I called back and was told they were out of stock eventhough their site and person I placed order with said that they had them in stock. I cancelled that order, called PP and they checked projector for me and shipped that day. They also matched the VA price.

I recently got the Z3 in and the only DVD player I had available was my roommates DVD Player that was with his system (Zenith DVT-412) playing at 480p through component inputs. The PQ was not what I was expecting from the Z3. I ordered the Panasonic S97 and it should be coming any day now. Should I expect a dramatic improvement of PQ with this much improved DVD Player as compared to the Zenith? I will be running the S97 through HDMI.

I have the Sony 975 connected via HDMI and the picture is much better than with a non-upconverting Sony player connected with component. Regardless of DVD player, you may need to apply some of the adjustments mentioned in the Z3 tweak forum, search for it.

I see a diference of PQ with the S97, and even more so after flashing the firmware to version 540 on the player. I am projecting on a off white wall and the whole viewing area is surrounded by the same surface. Do you recommend painting the viewing surface or surrounding walls matte grey to obtain max. contrast. The black bars and the blacks in the image are not quite blacker than black yet. I am going to take a look at that tweak thread today. Thanks.

My first post, so please excuse the newbieness.

Is there an advantage to getting a DVD player that upconverts its signal to 720p like the panasonic s97? I thought the Z3 automatically upconverts the image. Is one way better than the other?

Thanks.

Laz

heh, it does, but i too have been waiting for response on this same question. which does a better job? anyone? :D

I have tried using both the component output and HDMI (upconverted at the DVD player) on my S97 to the Z3 and the PQ seems to be about the same. Both look great to me. My biggest problem is that I still need to calibrate everything and really need to be testing with an actually screen instead of an off-white, textured wall... I am hoping to get a Carada screen ordered this week, but need to figure out which screen material to use yet.

I'll keep everyone posted.

Originally posted by onthejazz
heh, it does, but i too have been waiting for response on this same question. which does a better job? anyone? :D

See my post 3 above your question for my opinion

How many hours have the longest running Z3 owners racked up thus far on a bulb without blowing the bulb? Who has racked the most bulb hours?

My main concerns about the Z3 remain:

1) Shorter than average bulb life risks
2) Lower contrast and/or worse black levels vs Panasonic AE700
3) Less than optimal colour balance, colour gamma when tweaked without a filter and Smart III or Colorfacts.

:)

I have 15 hourson my lamp - that good enough for you ?

:D

Since component is analog, it may explain why having the z3 doing the upconverting (from 480p to 720p) may not be ideal.

I wonder if the z3 upconverted a digital signal (via HDMI) the result would be better. Does anyone know the answer to this before I go out and buy an upconverting DVD player?

Thanks.

Laz

I just bought a Panasonic S97 DVD player to go with my Z3. IMO the best image quality is via 480p using component input. The up converted 720p or 1080i via HDMI contains extra video noise and continuous tone banding. I see no benefit from this up converting player.

I would love to hear from someone who feels the image is better via 720p or 1080i and tell me how to achieve this.

Tom

168 hours. Just yesterday, I noticed that I accidentally had left the PJ running for 36+ hours in "No Show" mode. I left it there after a quick demo since I was planning to watch something a little later, then I didn't.

Dan

Originally posted by TCroly
I just bought a Panasonic S97 DVD player to go with my Z3. IMO the best image quality is via 480p using component input. The up converted 720p or 1080i via HDMI contains extra video noise and continuous tone banding. I see no benefit from this up converting player.

I would love to hear from someone who feels the image is better via 720p or 1080i and tell me how to achieve this.

Tom

Please let us know about cable lengths, cable brands, etc. It may help to piece together a few more details. I have the S97 and the Z3, and I have it hooked together with both HDMI and Component from B.J. Cables for a run of 15 feet each. I see no additional artifacts, banding, or any problems with the HDMI than the component. I don't see much of a picture quality difference between the two though. I don't have my screen yet (still trying to decide on screen material from Carada), so that might make a difference in one being a little better than the other, but the white wall looks pretty good none the less.

Last night I did hook up a cheap ($25 after rebate) Memorex DVD player I picked up at Christmas. It is a progressive scan DVD player, but nothing else. Pretty basic. The picture looked good with the Z3 upconverting, but not as good as with the S97 over the same component link. So the PQ of the S97 is better than (at least one) cheap DVD players that people may have laying around, and the tweaking features of the S97 really help to customize the picture.

So even if I don't seem get a better picture on the S97 between the component and the HDMI interfaces, it is a better quality player with more features. Sure, I was hoping that the upconvertion on the DVD player would be super, but I think that the Z3 has a good enough internal processor that it isn't that the DVD player isn't any good, but that the Z3 is just as good or possibly better.

I am wanting to order my fixed screen today or tomorrow and I just got my Z3 last week, so I have been messing around with it on a white wall.

Anyway, this is a native 16:9 projector, and last night when I was showing the kids The Incredibles, which is something like 2.39:1 (wider than 2.35:1) there was what I am calling "light spill" that filled the whole 16:9 area. By that, I mean that on a TV this would have just been the black bars at the top and bottom of the screen, but on the Z3, it still shoots some light out to fill the 16:9 screen even though the movie is at the wider aspect ratio.

So if I go with the 16:9 screen, even though I only watch widescreen movies on it, I would want to mask off the top and bottom of the screen (not very easy) to help with this.

If I go with a wider aspect ratio, something like 2.05:1, then that light would spill outside of the frame of the screen. This isn't a zoom issue at this point since the screen width of the 16:9 and the 2.05:1 would be the same. Obviously with the 2.05:1, I would have to adjust the zoom down to fit a 16:9 image into it and mask the sides...

Any ideas?

EDIT:
Let me try to run through an example.

Lets say I have a 2.35:1 sized screen playing a 2.35:1 ratio movie.

The projector shoots the image and the movie fits perfectly INSIDE the screen frame (which has a black border about 3 inches wide). SO the screen itself is a perfect fit for the image. HOWEVER, the Z3 is still shooting a 1.78:1 ratio image and there are several inches of light spill that are above and below the screen (and it's frame). This is completely outside of the screen and any masking system would have to mask off a large area outside of the screen for this.

Now, watching a HDTV show or something at a narrower ratio could be adjusted with the zoom of the projector so that the picture fit, height-wise, inside the frame, and then a normal masking of the right and left sides of the image would be done and there would be no light spill outside of the frame.

So the 2nd example would use masking to solve the problem, but the 1st one would basically need the screen to have a frame that was something crazy like a 6 inches more width on the top and bottom to hid the light that is there.

Originally posted by nickbuol
Please let us know about cable lengths, cable brands, etc. It may help to piece together a few more details. I have the S97 and the Z3, and I have it hooked together with both HDMI and Component from B.J. Cables for a run of 15 feet each. I see no additional artifacts, banding, or any problems with the HDMI than the component. I don't see much of a picture quality difference between the two though. I don't have my screen yet (still trying to decide on screen material from Carada), so that might make a difference in one being a little better than the other, but the white wall looks pretty good none the less.

I use the 6' HDMI cable that came supplied with the player. The difference between Component and HDMI is very subtle, but I can see it clearly when examining test images on the Digital Video Essentials disk. And I can see the added noise when closely examining faces and dark backgrounds from any DVD. I posted extensive experiences with this player over on the DVD forum in official S97 thread. Veiwing on a white wall might not show these issues as clearly as on a screen.

Tom

I was using my 9x11" sample sheets from Carada last night and didn't see anything unusual. Again, this may be that I am not using a large screen yet, but I was using the screen samples (the gray, 1.0 gain, and brilliant white) at the same time trying to see which material looked best, so I used my Video Essentials DVD and tweaked the image a little and spend hours just focusing on the screen material. Not once did I see the noise that you are talking about. I am not saying that it isn't there, but I have heard in other posts on upconverting DVD players that it seems to be hit or miss depending on a variety of conditions or just plain bad luck.

Since I personally finished the basement area that my home theater is in, I planned the wiring and structure so that I keep power far away from audio/video cables, I used high quality cables, and I am not sure that it made any difference, but it could also be that my HT is in my basement in a newer neighborhood of a town that is fairly small, or some other bizaar situation in that my house is shielded or not exposed to some other interference that you may be experiencing.

I wish that it was clear cut for everyone, but it seems like the issue could be caused by anything, and I wish that you were having the good luck that I am.

I just finished assembling and mounting my 119" High Contrast Severtson Screen with my new Z3 and all I can say is Holy Cow!! We're sitting at a distance of 12'6"from the scren with the Z3 mounted at 14'8" and the image is stunning with no noticable SDE.

From deep blacks to bright whites, this screen really shines. Assembly was a snap and stretching the screen to fit was a no brainer, although it did require some strength and old fashion leverage.

These guy's experience building and stretching screens for IMAX really shows itself in their Home Theater Screens. I have to say the material they use is really tuned towards today's digital projectors. When talking to Kirk today, he mentioned they have the Z3 and the AE700 in the showroom right off their production facility.

A Great product at a great value.

Thx,
Vidkidd

Isn't there anyway to see the firmware version (and generally accessing the service menu) by using the remote? My Z3 is upside down on a shelf and I can't really reach the buttons on it easily.

/David

This is one of the reasons why I decided to paint the walls a dark color and cover my ceiling with black sheets because when the light hits the screen it bounces back into your eyes and the surrounding walls which in turn goes back at the screen washing out the image and the black bars.

In a perfect dark room you should not see any spill in a 2.35:1 movie. The projector does not project black, it can only project nothing in place of black. How is yout theater room painted including the ceiling?

I have a few questions regarding the Z3, I want to make sure that this projector will work in the small room I have with minimum issues. The maximum throw distance I have is 9', I will be sitting 8' from the screen, based on the calculator I can do a maximum screen size of 90" using the zoom function. I will probably stay around 84". Is anyone using this projector from this short of a distance?, is/will I have issues with screen door effects?

I keep reading and flipping between the pany 700 and the z3, unfortunately I can't find a local dealer in Phoenix that has either one for me to look at, so I'm gonna have to make a best effort guess and go for one.

Has anyone tried any type of filter on the Z3 to see how it affects the contrast?

Bonesusa-

I dont know how far Mesa is for you but projectorpackages is located there and I believe they have both on demo. Hopefully you can look them up and see these projectors first hand!

YEAH, thanks for the info, I've checked online, the phone book etc, and couldn't find anything. Thanks

Originally posted by bonesusa
I have a few questions regarding the Z3, I want to make sure that this projector will work in the small room I have with minimum issues. The maximum throw distance I have is 9', I will be sitting 8' from the screen, based on the calculator I can do a maximum screen size of 90" using the zoom function. I will probably stay around 84". Is anyone using this projector from this short of a distance?, is/will I have issues with screen door effects?

I keep reading and flipping between the pany 700 and the z3, unfortunately I can't find a local dealer in Phoenix that has either one for me to look at, so I'm gonna have to make a best effort guess and go for one.

Has anyone tried any type of filter on the Z3 to see how it affects the contrast?

regarding your room- yes it can be done - but don't expect 90 + inches at that distance (which youre not expecting)

84 is is about 12 inches more than I have right now at 9 feet - no SDE, but who knows.. my eyes are not perfect

you can get an idea of how short my setup is by looking at some of my pics

www.silroc.net/theater

good luck

90" at 8', that's an IMAX theater, not a home theater.WOW!!. I have a 10'x12' room that is being converted to an HT. Veiwing distance is 11' and a second veiwing distance of possibly 8'. What's the best screen size in you opinions for this setup. I understand it will be determined by what I see when I see it , but I'm just trying to get a good idea of what to expect.

At 11' I have a 104" 16:9 screen. I was originally at 106" which was close to the maximum that the Z3 can project at a mounting distance of 11' from the lens to the screen (it is mounted right above the seating area)...

I would say that if I sat 3 feet closer, this would be too big and I may notice a decrease in quality since I would be able to see the limitations of DVD media more easily (any grainy images, etc). I like my image big, but that would be too big I would suspect.

Sorry I can't help much more than that. I ended up shooting on a white wall for about 3 days and played around with sizes before I ordered my Carada Criterion 104".

Thanks for the input, IMAX would be nice! but I don't want the picture quality to be crap just to have a big image, I'd rather go smaller and have more definition. I'll know alittle better (hopefully) tomorrow, I just found a place that has both projectors in stock locally and I'm gonna go see for myself what they look like at that distance and size.

Originally posted by ezecoli2001
In a perfect dark room you should not see any spill in a 2.35:1 movie. The projector does not project black, it can only project nothing in place of black. How is yout theater room painted including the ceiling?

Actually an LCD projector does project black. In a dark scene, the pixels on the panels are simply trying to block out the light from the lamp. The better the contrast ratio, the better the panels are at blocking out the light. There are of course other factors such as iris functions etc etc that affect contrast ratios. The Z3 with it's so called 2000:1 contrast ratio still projects blacks as a dark shade of grey due to the light penetrating the panels.

I have a Z3 hooked up to a Panny S97 via HDMI at 720p and don't get me wrong, I think it's great. However, the grey bands at the top and bottom of the screen do give the game away as regards the projector's ability to achieve a true black. I have the iris on minimum and the lamp set to the lowest setting. Does anyone have any suggestions regarding achieving a better black? I am using a white screen in a normal living room so there is always some ambient light, but I can never get the blacks as black as the screen without screwing up the image quality. So far I have only used the THX optimiser to calibrate the display. Will Avia or DVE make that much more difference??

Avia or DVE will help in general compared to THX Optimizer. But it won't do magic for your black level. A grey screen will, though. It makes an enormous difference. White screen vs grey screen is like Z1 vs Z3 black level, relatively.

/David

I was planning on a grey screen, I also have total light control in the room, I will probably start with a DIY screen, mdf painted with Behr silverscreen, see how it looks for awhile and then try goo systems stuff.

Have there been any reviews or comments on the Z3 using or suggesting any kind of filter to increase the blacks?

In a light controlled room on a Severtson Screen, (.95 gain - grey finish) I have pure blacks.

Thx,
Vidkidd

Behr Silverscreen paint here - blacks seem fine to me....Might even go with lighter paint to see what it's like

HI Guys, I am debating from the z3 and Epson Powerlite 200. Any comments? I have the EPSON in action, and it was stunning.

I live in Canada, Ontario - specifically kitchener. ANyone from this area know where to get these projectors..or see a demo of the z3?

thanks.

wicked_ride,

Have you seen the Cine4Home comparison of the latest LCD projectors? It's in German, but probably the most comprehensive comparison available. The comparison includes the Sanyo and Epson. See Cine4HOme Comparison here. (http://www.cine4home.de/tests/projektoren/LCD-Vergleich2/LCDVergleich2.htm) . You can use google or AltaVista Babelfish to translate. Even if you don't translate the whole article the numberical comparison at the bottom is a nice summary of their findings.

-Chris

Originally posted by spkrgeek
wicked_ride,

Have you seen the Cine4Home comparison of the latest LCD projectors? It's in German, but probably the most comprehensive comparison available. The comparison includes the Sanyo and Epson. See Cine4HOme Comparison here. (http://www.cine4home.de/tests/projektoren/LCD-Vergleich2/LCDVergleich2.htm) . You can use google or AltaVista Babelfish to translate. Even if you don't translate the whole article the numberical comparison at the bottom is a nice summary of their findings.

-Chris

interesting read - a little funny in english - but i get the points

thanks for the info

yeah good info! thanks

i wish more dealers displayed there things!!

Originally posted by vidkidd
In a light controlled room on a Severtson Screen, (.95 gain - Grey finish) I have pure blacks.

Thx,
Vidkidd

I wanted to thank Tom for letting me into his home to see his Z3 on this Severtson Screen.

This combination rocked. He has the Z3 projecting on a 119 Screen and the detail was amazing we very seated at about 12 feet. No screen door at all until you were about 3 feet from the screen. The details in the blacks very good and colors were great. I had a couple samples of some other Brand X Grey screens with me I layed it up against his screen and in all cases his out performed the samples. It's a .95 gain and works very well with the LCD process. I called the projector package company he deal with and the owner who spent a good hour talking over my needs. His dad has done the IMAX screens for years. There screens are treated with some spray on Optical treatment which i believe sets it apart from my samples. . They are very fairly priced. ( alot better than Stewart)

It was nice to see this projector in action. I was very impressed with both the projector and this screen. I ready to buy this FP and with this nice 92"Severtson Screen.......Thanks Agian Tom...Mike

They have a link within that article that is of the same length and specifically on the Z3. They hit all the things I have observed and helped me understand the Z3 much better.

One thing I have to bring up on the Z3, over DVI/HDMI is that with an ATI Video card. The Color is right on the ball. Out of the box with little to no adjustments. I can see a major difference over component though... A major red push... Im going to use their observation to help adjust out the component input.

Thx,
VIdkidd




Originally posted by spkrgeek
wicked_ride,

Have you seen the Cine4Home comparison of the latest LCD projectors? It's in German, but probably the most comprehensive comparison available. The comparison includes the Sanyo and Epson. See Cine4HOme Comparison here. (http://www.cine4home.de/tests/projektoren/LCD-Vergleich2/LCDVergleich2.htm) . You can use google or AltaVista Babelfish to translate. Even if you don't translate the whole article the numberical comparison at the bottom is a nice summary of their findings.

-Chris

What do you mean by "adjust out the component input"? I also have red push in test patterns (though you wouldn't know it with program material), but there's no way to adjust the color decoder to compensate for it that I know of. The RGB controls are all for grayscale.

Hmmm... When I take down the red values... it seems to remove red.

I should mention that reducing the vertical lens shift eliminated my fuzzyness in the bottom left corner of the image. Then again... I do have a slight keystone problem, but I Have a razor sharp HTPC image.

thx,
vidkidd

Z3 screen recomendation needed...

OK. I ordered a 104" Carada Criterion screen, and it showed up today. All fine and dandy, right? Well, I was projecting on a white wall before, and the screen should be a great improvement. I needed to paint the wall before mounting the screen, so I did that tonight, and tomorrow I should be putting up the screen.

Here is my question...

I ordered the Brilliant white screen which has a gain of 1.4...

My room is not nearly as dark during the day as I would like (need more window treatments). The ceiling is white (this is not a dedicated room, so I have to work with the looks of the room when a movie isn't on), and the floor still needs carpet, but is currently coated with a white sealer (on the cement basement floor), so I am getting a lot of reflections.

Anyway, the wall for the screen was painted a darkish blue tonight, and I fired up the projector, and I liked the black levels on a blue painted wall. Weird...

So anyway, am I going to regret getting a 1.4 gain screen? I was told that if you are having trouble with light in the room to get a brighter screen, so I did. If I am going to regret it, then I need to contact Carada about swapping out the screen. Ugh, what a pain to pack it uup into the 9 foot long box and send it back. When I viewed the screen samples, I didn't really like the grey, and the brilliant white seemed really nice, but now hearing about everyone's success with lower gain screens I am getting nervious...

Hi Nickbuol,

I too am planning to get a Carada Criterion screen. I'm planning to go with the 92" gray screen (0.8 gain) since there will be ambient light my Z3 room. From what I understand, the gray screen should do better when there is ambient light in the room (better black level). I've done some tests with my PLV-60 in a room with ambient light and this does seem to be the case. Better still would be a gray screen with higher gain, like the Stewart FireHawk (brighter whites AND better black level).

At any rate, I hear that it is possible to exchange screen material from Carada. You don't necessarily need to send it back in the original box.

Alternately, if your budget allows you might keep the Brilliant White and order gray separately. Your next projector might want a white screen. I think I remember seeing a post in the Screens forum that said it would be between $200 - $300 for new material from Carada.

-Chris

I am ball park estimating about $75 to swap just the matterial. Yikes...

Need shipping both ways, plus the axtra few dollars for the material "upgrade" costs.

From Carada's web site:
______________________________
Classic Cinema White Screen Material

Our Classic Cinema White screen material provides an exceptionally wide angle of view, helping to maintain a consistent image from different seating areas. It has a gain of 1.0, and is most suitable for dedicated theaters with good ambient light control.

Brilliant White

Our Brilliant White screen material has a gain of 1.4 for that extra bit of punch, with a minimal decrease in viewing angle. It is also a thicker, more opaque gauge of vinyl than our Classic Cinema White. With its higher gain, it is a good option for dimmer projectors, or in environments with some ambient light such as boardrooms or churches.

High Contrast Grey

Our High Contrast Grey screen material has a gain of 0.8, and can improve your image’s contrast by lowering the black levels. This material is a good option for digital projectors with less than spectacular contrast ratios.

_____________________________

So I picked the brilliant white because they recommended it for places with ambiant light and dimmer projectors, which is what the Z3 is and my room is.

Hey Guys.... Anyone buying a screen should really look at the Severtson brand. Like another AVS'er mentioned, and I observed, the Severtson brand blows the Carada screen materials out of the water. Period.

We put a bunch of the Carada material against a 119" Severtson and in every case, the Severtson had a much better image reproduction. On the Carada side, the .8 resulted in lost detail in dark areas. 1.0 was too bright and the 1.4... I dont want to even go there.

Unlike Carada, Severtson appears to have an additional process on top of the vinyl. This must be their key to better image reproduction.

Thx,
Vidkidd

ViddKid, you really are pushing Severtson, but I think that their big problem is that they don't show prices on their web site. People like the "show me now" not "email me later" type of pricing, or at least I do.

How much is a 104" 1.78:1 screen from them in the high contrast? I sure don't know.

Originally posted by vidkidd
Hey Guys.... Anyone buying a screen should really look at the Severtson brand. Like another AVS'er mentioned, and I observed, the Severtson brand blows the Carada screen materials out of the water. Period.

We put a bunch of the Carada material against a 119" Severtson and in every case, the Severtson had a much better image reproduction. On the Carada side, the .8 resulted in lost detail in dark areas. 1.0 was too bright and the 1.4... I dont want to even go there.

Unlike Carada, Severtson appears to have an additional process on top of the vinyl. This must be their key to better image reproduction.


Why is Severtson better than Da-Lite? Why is Carada better than Da-Lite?

/David

Originally posted by pinkfloydhomer
Why is Severtson better than Da-Lite? Why is Carada better than Da-Lite?

/David
Carada is supposed to be as good of quality as Da-Lite but at half the cost...

As for Severtson, VidKidd is the only one I know that has one, and they seem to be new to the screen scene, so time will tell with them. Good to have some competition though.

Originally posted by nickbuol
Carada is supposed to be as good of quality as Da-Lite but at half the cost...


Hmm. Last I checked Carada's site, they were more expensive than Da-Lite.

I can get 77" 16:9 Da-Lite HCCV Perm Wall screen for $370.
64" Carada High Contrast Grey costs $420.
At 92" the prices are more or less the same.

/David

Could someone pm me a price on a severtson 92" .95 screen?

Also, how does the severtson mount? Is it like the Carada?

I'd say severtson is better as it's not just a piece of material cut prepped for mounting. The Severtson has a "process" applied to the image of the screens surface that take the image to the next level. This process allows my Z3 to put off an Image via HDMI/ATI Video Card that is in line with my Sony 60 XBR 950.

Although Severtson is new to home Theaters, their process has been used in HUGE screen and attraction based applications for many years. A Long time running Professional experience in Theater = a great experience in home theater.

Thx,
Vidkidd

I was quoted a price from Severtson that was approximately 50% greater than Carada. I probably save my money.

Originally posted by vidkidd
I'd say severtson is better as it's not just a piece of material cut prepped for mounting. The Severtson has a "process" applied to the image of the screens surface that take the image to the next level. This process allows my Z3 to put off an Image via HDMI/ATI Video Card that is in line with my Sony 60 XBR 950.

Although Severtson is new to home Theaters, their process has been used in HUGE screen and attraction based applications for many years. A Long time running Professional experience in Theater = a great experience in home theater.

Thx,
Vidkidd

I've heard that the screen is prone to "sparklies" as part of their additional "process" that is applied. To some people, it is not a problem, for others it is bothersome.

I just read a great side by side review of Carada and Da Lite screen materials at: http://www.hometheaterblog.com/hometheater/2004/12/
You need to scroll down to December 6, 2004.

They like the Carada Brilliant White and the Da Lite HCCV for gray screens if you have a bright projector.

Oh, and just because someone does well in the big screen market does NOT make them a shoe in for home theater. Completely different environment to work with. What you can get away with on the big screen, is more noticable when you drop that down to 100 inches.

There are no "crystals" put on this screen and there are no sparklies. Whomever you spoke to never had the opportunity to sit down and see one.

Trust me here... If there is a visual defect. If there is a problem with image rendering or display... My eyes are hyper-sensitive to these problems and I will see them. This screen has absolutely has no problems with the Severtson product. The don't put those fine granuals like on the old slide projector screens.....

Severtsons screens aren't in the bargain bin and you really get what you pay for. Their screens and process was designed for projectors like the Z3 and it really shows...

Thx,
Vidkidd

Originally posted by vidkidd
There are no "crystals" put on this screen and there are no sparklies. Whomever you spoke to never had the opportunity to sit down and see one.

Trust me here... If there is a visual defect. If there is a problem with image rendering or display... My eyes are hyper-sensitive to these problems and I will see them. This screen has absolutely has no problems with the Severtson product. The don't put those fine granuals like on the old slide projector screens.....

Severtsons screens aren't in the bargain bin and you really get what you pay for. Their screens and process was designed for projectors like the Z3 and it really shows...

Thx,
Vidkidd

How about some photos? Then we should probably get this thread back on to the Z3 and off of screens. If you like your Stevertson, that is great, and I am not trying to "slam" your or anything, so I hope that you have not taken anything that way.

One last comment on screens, I can't wait for the "black" screens to be more available. Then you will have great blacks even in ambiant light and bright light situations.....

Agreed....

Did anyone read through the German review of the Z3? I think they hit all the points to a T. I Did get some dust on the internal optics of my Z3 and after reading their article, I can see exactly where the dust entered the projector.

I also had to reduce my vertical lens shift to keep a perfectly focused image corner to corner. Although I have a but of keystone, the image is in 100% focus edge to edge.

thx,
vidkidd

With a rating of 800 lumens, does anyone find it not bright enough? I am looking to buy 1 in a few weeks. I am so concerned about this.

my room is 17ft by 17ft in the basement with a small basement window

Well, I got the Carada screen up and it looks great. However, as I was making final adjustments to the Z3 and how it was positioned on the ceiling mount, the lens got bumped with my finger. Now the top part of my image is blurred...

What do I clean the lens with? Since this is a greasy fingerprint, what should I use?

I have no problems whatsoever. HD is beautiful. Whites are white. Blacks are... Well.. Black...

Regarding cleaning... I use a cloth and material used for cleaning glasses

Thx,
Vidkidd

Originally posted by wicked_ride
With a rating of 800 lumens, does anyone find it not bright enough? I am looking to buy 1 in a few weeks. I am so concerned about this.

my room is 17ft by 17ft in the basement with a small basement window

I don't find the light output of Z3 a problem at all.

But realize that it depends on several controlable factors and it also affects other factors itself:

1) If you have perfect or good light control in your room, you don't need "a lot of light".

2) Given the same contrast specification, a higher light output means a lousier black level. So in fact one could say about light output that the ideal in any environment is "just enough light, and no more".

3) What "enough light" is, is of course partly a matter of taste.

4) If you use a grey screen instead of a white, you will need more light to obtain the same brightness. On the other hand, you get much better black level, which is exactly the compromise grey screens are designed for.

5) Brightness also depends heavily on what lamp mode and iris settings you use, and your calibration in general.

6) Light output from screen is directly dependant on screen size. I use a 77" 16:9 grey screen from appx. 2.8 meters (appx. 9 feet) in a roow with yellow walls that isn't terribly light controlled in itself, but I only watch movies after dark, so...
I calibrated for best black level, using the grey screen mentioned above and iris at -53, theater black lamp mode and calibrated with Avia and DVE afterwards. The result is a picture that doesn't lack brightness at all and that has rich inky blacks.
Of course, if I used a larger screen, say 100", brightness would drop, but black level would also improve. If I thought it was too much, I could just open up the iris a bit, choose a brighter lamp mode, or calibrate for a brighter compromise than now.
The above is for movies. When I watch soccer, I just use one of the built in high output modes (dynamic or similar). Then I get much more light and I don't need excellent black level or contrast watching soccer.

As you can see, there are a lot of options and opportunities for you to control the brightness. Z3 can give a lot of brightness when and if you want it. But most importantly, it can also be calibrated for lower brightness and better blacks.

/David

Hi guys. This is my first post but I have been reading many threads.

I'm looking for my first Front Projector and the Z3 seems to be a perfect fit for me. I appreciate all of the information that has been offered in this thread.

One simple question I have: How is the picture quality for standard def broadcast with the Z3. More specifically, for any Dish users, how is the PQ of non-HD broadcasts? My HD options are limited here in Iowa and even when I do eventually add HD I will undoubtedly still be watching some stnd def broadcasts. I'm quite pleased with my analog picture quality through Dish as it stands right now with my 6 yr old 54" Marantz Rear Projection. Can I expect a similar/better picture quality with a Z3. I'm sure most of you would recommend a demo however, I don't have that option in my area.

I'd appreciate any insight.

Reid

Standard def channels from my digital cable come through surprisingly well on the Z3. Naturally, blowing a standard def resolution picture up to projector sizes is a compromise... but the Z3 does a pretty good job of scaling SD material. You should be very pleased with it.

Jeremy, thanks for the insight. Would you mind giving me the "quick and dirty" on your set-up? i.e. screen size, type, viewing distance,etc.

My room is approx 15' X 15' and I can easily make it about 99% light controlled with proper curtains. Walls and ceiling are white. I will most likely ceiling mount. I'm thinking a screen size of 92" to 106". Would I lose any PQ going with the 106"?

Check my gallery for a few quick pics I snapped. I was shoehorning the Z3 into a room with an existing RPTV, which you'll see in the pics.

Room is roughly 14'x 20'. I have the Z3 shelf-mounted on my back wall, with a 92" Da-Lite Model B HCMW ceiling-mounted so that it pulls down just in front of the RPTV (with the bottom rail of the screen resting slightly against the front of the RPTV to keep it from moving). I'm running both my Comcast digital hi-def/DVR box and Panasonic RP-56 DVD to both the RPTV and Z3 using an Impact Acoustics 4x2 Component video matrix switcher, with a 50' length of component cable running through the walls to the projector. Projector is 11' from the screen, which is pretty much the viewing distance. I hear no noise from the Z3 even though it is about 2' above my head. Standard television looks really good from this distance, but I'm glad I didn't go with the 106" screen like I had originally planned. While screen door is unnoticeable from 11' with the 92" screen, I think it might have stood out a bit with the 106" at that distance. However, I'm not defocusing the Z3 at all to compensate, so use your best judgment.

I'm running at 104" and the image is great. I sit at about 11.5' from the screen.

Ceiling is white, floor is white (in progress of finishing my basement, so I don't have carpet yet). Lots of reflection off of the floor, but still great picture.

Check out some photos at my web site of my progress...

http://ht.buol.us

My distance for projecting is pretty darn close to being what Jeremy Anderson mentions with his setup.

I have the Z3 focused pretty well (not "defocused") and I don't see screen door except in the absolute brightest parts of the brightest scene you can imagine. Most movies I have sampled and watched don't have these scenes, so I am going to leave it focused and just forget about those extreme scenes.

Not just my eyes either, my wife, some guys from work, and a couple of neighbors have checked it out too. I asked them specifically to look for flaws and types of flaws to look for, and had no complaints.

Nick, GREAT looking home theater man! I really like that color you used. What exact color is it? Very classy looking screen as well. So that is a 96" screen correct? Do you have 8' celings as I do? I was hoping I'd be able to put my audio rack directly beneath the screen but looks like if I go with a similar screen that won't work. I have about 5' from the top of the wall to the top of my rack. What's the total height of your screen?

Originally posted by IA_Hi_Fi_Guy
Nick, GREAT looking home theater man! I really like that color you used. What exact color is it? Very classy looking screen as well. So that is a 96" screen correct? Do you have 8' celings as I do? I was hoping I'd be able to put my audio rack directly beneath the screen but looks like if I go with a similar screen that won't work. I have about 5' from the top of the wall to the top of my rack. What's the total height of your screen?

Close, it is a 104" screen. My web site says that it is a 96" wide image, but not a 96" diagonal image. I should change it so that it isn't so confusing... That was back before the screen was up, and I was just shooting the image on a white wall.

The screen, with frame, is 57.5" tall. It is the Carada Criterion, so their Precision screen of the same size would be about 55" top to bottom including the frame. Both are less than 5', but you might want to test that height as most people agree that your eyes (when sitting) should be in line with the bottom 1/3 of the screen.

For example, if your eyes are 36" off of the ground when sitting, then 1/3 of your screen should be below 36". Now, I have no idea if your eyes are 36" or 48" off of the ground. I am at my computer desk which sits different than my couch, and I don't remember what I measured when I did it, but in the end, I ended up putting the screen up as high as I could without interfering with the center channel speaker. They basic point is that you will have a sore neck/back if you have to look "up" at your picture.

I know this because in our living room we have a TV above our fireplace, and I can't stand to watch TV for very long because I have to look up at it and not just straight ahead.

My ceilings are 8 feet, but the screen is under the framed up area around the main ductwork for the house, so it is just under 7 feet from floor to "ceiling" under there.

The colors are actually Pittsburg Paint's Silver Blueberry (darker blue) and on the same set of colors, one color lighter, Sterling Silver. It looks like a light (not baby) blue, but I think that is because it is with the Blueberry color and your mind plays an optical trick on you.

Turned out pretty nice, we think anyway.

I am super happy with the Z3. A very nice projector, especially for the money.

I WANT TO BUY A Z3, but this is my question to all you happy owners!

MY room is 16.5 x 16.5 ft ceiling will be 7ft...is this projector overkill for that room size..

i will probably sitting at 15ft. i wanted a 92"diagonal screen (45 x 80)

or what would projector would you reccomend..oh ya this is in the basement

I REALLY NEED SOME ADVISE, cause no one near me in canada has one to demo..so i am buying this blindly..I NEED THE z3'ers help!!

Originally posted by wicked_ride
I WANT TO BUY A Z3, but this is my question to all you happy owners!

MY room is 16.5 x 16.5 ft ceiling will be 7ft...is this projector overkill for that room size..

i will probably sitting at 15ft. i wanted a 92"diagonal screen (45 x 80)

or what would projector would you reccomend..oh ya this is in the basement

I REALLY NEED SOME ADVISE, cause no one near me in canada has one to demo..so i am buying this blindly..I NEED THE z3'ers help!!

My theater area is only 12 feet front to back. It is really wide though, but that doesn't impact (positive or negative) the effective usable size of the room.

I would say that the Z3 is a great candidate for your room. Your biggest limiter is your ceiling height in making the room look small, but even 7' is enough room for the screen.

I had to buy my Z3 without a demo too, so I understand your nerviousness.

Originally posted by vidkidd
I Did get some dust on the internal optics of my Z3 and after reading their article, I can see exactly where the dust entered the projector.

Were you able to clear the dust using the Z3's unique dust-puffer thingie? That's one of the main selling points that's drawing me toward this projector, and I'd like to hear that the feature is useful.

Originally posted by BobLeedom
Were you able to clear the dust using the Z3's unique dust-puffer thingie? That's one of the main selling points that's drawing me toward this projector, and I'd like to hear that the feature is useful.

I did the blind order of a z3 in feb and love it so far..... well am not overly impressed with the black levels but I think that is more my rooms fault.... walls ceiling (7' ceiling) and floors are all white. I hae a couple gallons of black and red paint that will take care of this prob though....

Anyhow the dust thing.... I would say my fifth movie I saw a dust blob dead middle of the screen. It def. agrivated me but the weird thing was my friend didnt notice it until I pointed it out to him.... anyhow, did the lens cleaner function and used the dust blobber, the pic is as good as new..... I think I know why you arent supposed to install the pj until you finish your room now though :P... for the record the dust blobberis what actually fixed it, the lens cleaner function (which is just a fan of sorts) didnt getrdun, so had to take the pj down and use the tool which worked like a charm.

Originally posted by wicked_ride
I WANT TO BUY A Z3, but this is my question to all you happy owners!

MY room is 16.5 x 16.5 ft ceiling will be 7ft...is this projector overkill for that room size..

i will probably sitting at 15ft. i wanted a 92"diagonal screen (45 x 80)

or what would projector would you reccomend..oh ya this is in the basement

I REALLY NEED SOME ADVISE, cause no one near me in canada has one to demo..so i am buying this blindly..I NEED THE z3'ers help!!

I have a 12'Wx25'Lx7'H room. I'm using a 92" diy screen. My biggest obstacle is the airduct running the length of the room. I ended up using the airduct to create a shelf to mount the Z3. You'll probably mount the Z3 around 8'-10' from the 92" screen and at 15' sitting position you'll hear your seatmate's heartbeat before you can hear this projector. You'll definitely need the lens shift because of the room height which the Z3 has generously.

I just got my new Z3 today - first projector. Im projecting onto a hanging sheet until I decide on a screen. The summary of my feelings are OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG.:)

I'm still in factory default settings which I think is Dynamic mode, no tweaking whatsoever yet and it's absolutly amazing with DVD and HDTV (Comcast) material. I was worried that DVDs may have scalaing artifacts, but so far the scalar looks really good. Not sure if I could tell the difference between progressive output from my DVD player or not.

I'm about 11-13' feet from a 100+ inch image. I don't notice SDE either at that distance, but maybe my super-uber screen ($1.50 white sheet) is bluring the picture a bit.

No buyers regret yet vs the AE700 which I had considered as well. PLenty bright, blacks for me are great (completely light controlled room), even with some ambient light (dimmable directional lights in the room).

Next task is to find a 20 foot SVideo cable so I can play PS2 and Xbox.:) Also looking at buying a receiver which does DVI/Component switch and up-conversion. Anyone have any experience with these? Do they convert from SVideo to DVI?

Next step is to mount this thing on the ceiling (bought a Chief mount) and start looking at screens now that I found the size image I want.

I do not think you'll find any receiver that will switch s-video to dvi. Analog video switching should be pretty common nowadays while digital video switching receivers are coming out.

Congrats on the Z3! Don't get your hopes up on finding a receiver that switches DVI, HDMI will be the standard for consumer A/V since it also carries audio. Composite, S-video, and component are analog, DVI-D (which most projector inputs are) are digital, not a good chance for "up-conversion".

Take advantage of the Z3's input capability (VGA, HDMI, 2 component, S-video) and run each with its highest quality video option. XBOX and PS2 both have component video output capability. If you don't want to run that many cables to the Z3, at least use component video. It has twice the color bandwidth as S-video at 480i and opens up high def options from the consoles.

My Pioneer Elite 54TX will convert SVideo and composite to component, and I have heard of others that will output HDMI, but you pay a lot more for that.

I use 2 cables for my Z3, a HDMI and a component. I was using them both connected to the DVD player to compare the picture quality, but now I just use HDMI form the DVD player, and then component from my receiver. Then, I just plug other devices (my old Dreamcast, or my laptop, or even a, dare I say it, VCR) into the receiver and it converts them to the component. That way I only need the two sets of cables. I am only going 15 feet, but even still these cables were like $120 total from BJC, a longer run obviously costs more, so the fewer the amount of cables you need to run, the better (from a cost point of view).

Did a quick search and the Outlaw Model 1070 does DVI switching...

At first, I would have thought that a receiver should do HDMI and skip DVI, but I guess if the receiver is running the sound to the speakers, all you need is the DVI video anyway...

I like having HDMI on the Z3 even though I don't need to pass audio to it. Good for the "new standard".

Nickbol is correct, the Yamaha RX-V4600 will output HDMI but at $1900! But up-conversion cannot add back picture quality that was removed while outputting S-video or composite. For the Dreamcast (that was a great system BTW), S-VHS, VCRs, and all other devices that only have S-video and below, up conversion is great because if reduces cable count to the projector.

Yes, they are expensive aren't they? Mxyztplk is right that just like any video upconversion, you can not add back detail that has been removed, you can only simulate it. I remember an arguement between a couple of guys because one guy kept saying that upconversion created a true HD image. While it may product higher resolution output, it still isn't a true, no need to fake pixels, HD image.

It's all about reducing cable count for me, plus getting a better receiver than the one I have. I would need like 5 component video inputs though (dvd, HDTV, xbox, PS2, maybe a PC input), and then preferrably they would all go out via one single HDMI connector. But I may go the component route instead of HDMI. My 26' monster compojnent cable seems to have no signal loss as far as I can tell - rock solid picture when looking at comcast digitally generated menus. If my component looks solid, is there any reason to use HDMI/DVI instead?

P.S. Firefly was an awesome DVD test with low-brightness seems to remove any worries I had about contrast. That show is great!

Only if HDCP becomes necessary for all high definition material. Right now, only upscaling dvd-players require this for their 'upconverted' signals.

Yeah, if I was using a standard progressive scan DVD player with my Z3, I wouldn't need the HDMI. I ran the HDMI now since I was running cables in the walls, and wanted to have the most current cable type for future connectivity, plus I didn't have the upconverting DVD player or Z3 until AFTER I needed to run the cable. I like the upconverted image coming out of the HDMI on the Panny S97 DVD player, but the Z3 does a great job all by itself from component inputs.

I am seriously considering getting a Z3, with the primary competitor being a Optoma H77, which is sort of strange considering it comes at twice the price, but that is besides the point.

A fairly typical complaint I hear from DLP evangelists agaisnt LCD PJ's is the look of "pixelization"... Do you Z3 owners feel that has any merit and would you say you get a "film-like" presentation with your Sanyo? Not trying to drift too off-topic here, but I don't have a dealer nearby and the Z3 sounds like it could be the ticket for me. Incidentally, I will likely split my PJ viewing 50/50/0 (HDTV/DVD movies/SD).

Thanks for any comments,
gtd

If you are able to see the look of "pixelization", you are sitting too close to the screen anyway. For plv-z3 the limit is imo ~two times the screen width, some watch movies at 1.5X with no problems. Just think of what you can get for the money you will _not_ spend! Like a pair of very very good speakers that can make your favourite music sound great!

I am perfectly happy with my htpc/plv-z3 combination. I was however happy with my plv-z1/htpc too. One should always consider the source vs. projector. That makes a huge difference. Imo plv-z1/htpc is better than plv-z3/s-video any day. Upscaling with ffdshow gives life to the movies. This is just my opinion.

Cheers :-)

Well, I have the audio end of this very well covered, as it has been a passion of mine since I built an 8-track Quadrophonic heathkit stereo when I was 11 years old (yes, fortunately the system has evolved over the years), but thanks for the advice anyway.

I can't imagine sitting any closer than twice width, so that sounds good. Are you saying you see NO screen door effect (that seemed to be a complaint wrt the z1 from what I have read) at your viewing distances? Also, do you watch many movies that are primarily dark, and if so, do you get the detail in the low light areas and the color of black that seems realistic to you?

Don't get me wrong- I would love to save some cash by getting a z3, but laying out nearly two large for something that doesn't turn out to work for me would be a bad move. It is unfortunate there is no dealer near me.

Thanks for your response.

gtd

My limit with the plv-z1 was ~2.2*screen width, now it is is more like 1.8. 2 times the width I can see no pixelation wse ("I have perfect vision").

I use gamma 1.1-1.2 from my htpc to get all the detail from those dark chapters. If you use avia dvd and tweak a bit, you should be more than satisfied. I have a X073 (finnish color picked for lcd projectors) painted screen and I love it.

At least in my room the reason for not getting blacks black is me. I should paint the ceiling a bit more dark....

I am currently using the standard DVD mode with no upconversion. I can see pixelation in white or bright areas when within 1.7 times screen width. Past that it's not a problem except in a few special cases. For example, last night while watching a Japanese movie from the 1960s the pixels were distractingly visible in the subtitles. In other cases, the pixels are barely visible in titles at 1.7 times screen width. I have set the image size to get 1.8 times screen width at our preferred seating position (at the best acoustic position to minimize resonances and nulls) and this gives a very satisfying home movie experience.

We don't yet have HD feed on our cable, so I can't vouch for the Z3's performance on that score. But I have watched regular cable feed on the Z3, and it is surprisingly watchable.

The image can ALWAYS be better, but for me, the Z3 is at the "sweet spot" beyond which you have to spend considerably more to get a small increment in image quality. I chose the Z3 over the Panasonic 700 for the better Sanyo warranty and fewer reported image defects. Ours is 100% pixel perfect and there is absolutely no trace of vertical banding.

One thing to ensure with the Z3 is that your seating position is ahead of the projector if possible. Ours is ceiling mounted 1 foot behind our front row seating position. It is inaudible except in dead-quiet scenes, and then is only a faint whisper. But it's slightly more audible when you sit in the back row, where the projector is a few feet in front of the seating position. The Z3's zoom lens doesn't have the flexibility of the Panasonic's, and this means you have to be careful if you want to get the projector mounted behind your seating position AND keep your viewing distance just outside the limit of pixel visibility.