I saw the Z4, but the price of the Z3 is right at the top end of the budget my wife gave me :-) I couldn't justify spending the extra to get the Z4.

I wouldn't hesitate on the Z3. I bought mine after it was discontined at a great price. It still has the 3 year warranty. The Z2 was sold long after it was discontinued. If you are concerned, get the Z4 which is the current model but it will cost more. If you read back on this thread you will see a long history of reliability on this PJ.

I heard that Sanyo were going to continue to make the Z3's in 2006, because of it's particular price niche in relation to the Z4. The Z3 rocks by the way even if it is discontinued.

Os

After doing more research and looking at other projectors, I decided to buy the Z3. I ordered it yesterday and should have it early next week.

I just closed on a new house that has a dedicated 15' x 15' media room that has no windows and I can't wait to get my home theatre set up.

I can't figure out how to remove the long thin internal filter at the back of the Z3. Would someone please explain to me how this is done. Thank you in advance for your assistance.

I can't figure out how to remove the long thin internal filter at the back of the Z3. Would someone please explain to me how this is done. Thank you in advance for your assistance.

You have to pull it out from both sides. I had to use a butter knife to pry open each side. I am sure a couple of nails have been broken trying to get it out...

On page 48 of the owner's manual there is a good picture of the small latches you have to push in to release the filter.

Has anybody replaced this filter? And how many hours did you have when filter was replaced?

On page 48 of the owner's manual there is a good picture of the small latches you have to push in to release the filter.

I looked at page 48 before I tried cleaning filter #2 and my filter doesn't look like the one pictured in the manual. Mine has flat ends and the one in the manual shows accessible latches. This makes it impossible for me to release the latches.

Thank you for the helpful responses. I guess it's time to call Sanyo.

I am having a similar problem to the poster quoted below. I couldn't find a reply to his post though.

My Z3 is about 6 months old, with maybe a couple hundred hours on it, but in the past few weeks I've started to notice a pronounced BLUE tinted band across the top 10-15% of the screen, especially noticable on broadcast channels on pillarboxed commercials.

Is this normal for the Z3? Has anyone else seen this problem? What can I do to eliminate the problem, or is it something that I have to send to Sanyo to have fixed?

Thank you.


Wondering if you guys can help me. I've been searchin around the forum for a couple hours now and can't find anything like the issue I'm seeing.

Sometimes when I'm watching a 480i source (I know yuk) on my Z3 there is a very light but noticeable blue/purple tint along the top edge of the screen. It is most noticeable when the edge is a solid color like black or white. I've tried different devices for input and get the same result. I can't seem to figure out what is causing it. When I watch an HD or DVD signal on the same inputs (component) I don't get the discoloration.

Any help is much appreciated.

-Geoff

If it doesn't happen when using component input I would think it might be an issue with the TV signal. Have you tried adjusting the overscan settings? Does it happen the same on every channel?

Does it happen when you press the "no show" button?

If it doesn't happen when using component input I would think it might be an issue with the TV signal. Have you tried adjusting the overscan settings? Does it happen the same on every channel?

Does it happen when you press the "no show" button?

Thanks for the reply.

It does happen on component, but I'm pretty sure it's not an overscan issue because the blue tint is well into the picture area (and I previously adjusted overscan, when I first set it up).

I'll have to take a look at the screen with the "no show" button.

I've been a very happy z3 owner for the past 3 months. I'm using a 92" 1.3 gain matte white screen from a projected distance and seating distance of approximately 12.5 feet away. The performance with the xbox360 is very vivid and crisp. Especially for me the move from a philips 30pw850h (which was a great set minus some geometry 1080i issues), which most certainly didn't display a native hd resolution, to the native 720p (the designed resolution for the majority of 360 games) of the z3 was incredible - not to mention going from a 30" widescreen to a 92" one.

Anyways, I'm moving back home and wanted to put a HT in my entirely light-controlled basement. The room is 17'x25' and 7.5' high. I'm thinking about having my z3 project through a hole in the wall the length of 25' to the 92" screen on the opposite side. I want to project through a hole in the wall because I think it would be neat to reduce some clutter and give a theater-like illusion. Is this even possible or would my image size be forced much larger? If it is adjustable, am I likely going to be at a loss of PQ? Would it be a much better idea to project instead the 17' distance of the other walls in the room?

Also, with a 92" screen, what would be the best distance to place the PJ and configure it? Any answers would be warmly appreciated. :)

You need a long throw lens to project a 92" image from 25'. It might cost more than the pj. Might want to check the Z4's or AE900's long throw lens spec instead.

Welcome to the forum and glad that you're enjoying your Z3.

According to the projection calculator (see link below), the lens-to-screen distance needs to be between 9.1' and 11.9' to throw a 92" diagonal image.

The smallest image you could get with a 17' throw would be 130" diagonal. At that distance/size, a 2.1 gain screen is recommended. This seems about right since a 130" image is >2x the area of a 92" image which is about the limit for a Z3 with a 1.0 gain screen.

Ceiling (or table) mounting between 9.1' and 11.9' will be your least-expensive option. With the Z3, you really can't get around having the projector close to the recommended 1.5x viewing distance to screen. Fortunately, it's relatively quiet, especially in theater black mode.

Good luck and let us know what you decide to do.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Sanyo-PLV-Z3-projection-calculator-pro.htm

I own the Z3 and have had it hooked up to Toshiba HD-XA1 DVD via HDMI. I have a gefen 2x2 HDMI switch to switch between the Toshiba and other DVI sources I have (0ppo DVD and sat receiver). If I switch from the Toshiba to DVI on the HDMI switch and then back to the Toshiba, I get a green screen and loss of color sync. I thought this was the predator effect widely advertised in this thread but unlike all the reports here, I can still use the remote when this happens to shut down the Z3, let it cool and start it up again and the problem is gone. Has anyone had this problem? All reports on this forum about predator say that the projector can only be turned off with the switch on the projector, but I don't have this issue.

It's an HDMI sync issue. For some, going to a different projector input and/or HDMI source then coming back to HDMI on the problem source device fixes the problem. For others (like me) I'm stuck with the green tinted screen for my Oppo until I power down.

Hey guys. I just got the mount equipment. I assembled everything to the projector. Now I just have to attach it to the ceiling. To connect to the ceiling they gave 4 pointy bolts (sorry about the low vocab) and 4 flat screws or toggle bolts(sorry again). There are 6 holes on the ceiling plate. What am I suppose to do? I am in need of help. Thanks.
Here is a picture:
http://img478.imageshack.us/img478/275/projectorpic7771mi.th.jpg (http://img478.imageshack.us/my.php?image=projectorpic7771mi.jpg)

Tennis - couple of questions:

- You're attaching this to a drywall ceiling, or open beam, not a drop ceiling, right?

- Have you already run the power and source cables (component and/or HDMI) to the location where you are going to mount the Z3?

- Also, I can't tell from the picture, but is the mounting plate restricting the airflow of the front air intake and filter on the bottom of the unit? If so, you might want to look at a different style mount. Keeping internal temperatures down will increase bulb life and the life of the PJ itself.

Assuming that you're mounting to a drywall ceiling, disconnect the plate from the Z3 and hold it up to the ceiling where you wish to mount it and trace the holes for the bolts as well as the cutout for the cables. Try to have at least two of the holes be over a joist. When you remove the plate, you will have a template on your ceiling for where you need to cut and drill.

For the bolts that will go into a joist, pre-drill a hole (with a drill bit SMALLER in width than the bolt) for the pointy bolts.

For the toggle bolts that will just go into the drywall, you will need to drill a hole slightly LARGER than the toggle.

Assemble the toggle on the mounting plate as shown in the following link and install to the ceiling:
http://www.factsfacts.com/MyHomeRepair/images/toggleboltuse.jpg

Screw in the pointy bolts to the joists. Check to see if the mount is secure before attaching the Z3.

Basic info on drywall fasterners:
http://www.factsfacts.com/MyHomeRepair/drywallfasteners.htm

Good luck.

ajstan99-

- I am attaching this to a drywall ceiling.

- I have already run the power and source cables.

- The projector plate IS partially blocking the lamp area and one filter.

I have one more question. I can't use a power drill on the pointy screws because they don't have a thing for that (it is flat). What do I do? Do I just screw it in with my hand? Thanks alot for your help. I appreciate it.

Tennis - I would reconsider using any mount that would restrict airflow.

However, if you decide to still use this mount, get one of these if you want to do it by hand:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00934746000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Ratchets&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

Also get one of these if you want to connect to your power screwdriver:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Power+Tool+Accessories&pid=00925976000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Drill+Bits&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

If you have any questions, bring your power screwdriver to the hardware store and they'll help you figure it out.

Ajstan99, I did it!!!! Thanks for all your help. :rolleyes:

Congrats and enjoy! Post a picture for us when you get the chance.

Any owners using the new Oppo 970 with their Z3? Comments about the 970's scaler vs Z3's scaler is appreciated.

Hi all,

So, I have a Sanyo Z3 projector (1 yr old) and in the last couple of weeks I started to have a problem with the on screen image from my dvd player (a Zenith DVB-318 upconverting player) The DVD player is set to 720p as is the Z3. So here is the problem, when watching movies lately there appears to be a green “shadow” on the edges of certain images, mostly the jaw lines of human faces. It happens in all types of scenes. Any idea what this could be? I am connected to the player via component input and nothing has changed recently with my set up. When I watch content from my Comcast box (HDTV or SD via HDMI) I don’t have this problem. Also, it does not appear to have the problem on my Xbox 360 (also via component). Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Sean

Sean - if nothing has changed in the settings or your configuration, here are the first steps I'd try to troubleshoot:

1. Re-seat the Zenith component cables (at the source and the PJ).
2. Try plugging the Zenith into the other component-in jack on the Z3. (Make sure that it's not a bad jack on the PJ)
3. Swap component cables with the Xbox and/or move the Zenith closer to the PJ and try a shorter component cable.

Hopefully, one of these will indicate a cable problem, not a source or PJ issue.

never mind.

Searched around for 'flicker' and 'flashing' but I couldn't find this issue..

I've started noticing a flickering in my Z3 picture, regardless of what source is being displayed. Honestly I'm not sure if the flicker is a flash of brightness, or a split-second reduction in brightness. It has started to become more frequent and at this point I'll notice it randomly flickering every few seconds.

While trying to isolate what would be causing the issue, I noticed something odd. Whenever I make a change to the display settings (such as flipping from my user defined tuning to one of the presets), the flickering completely subsides for a few minutes. I noticed that, specifically, if I change the lamp mode alone this same thing happens. I was actually able to run it in one of the high light output modes (normally I use theater black) for 15 minutes or so last night with no issue.

The only display setting I have changed recently was the overscan - which I set to 0 so that I could display my PC over HDMI without cropping. I ended up changing that back to the factory setting, but the flickering still occured.

The bulb replacement indicator light is NOT illuminated, however, I am wondering if this effect is symptomatic of a dying bulb. For anyone who has gone thru a bulb - were there any indicators beforehand, or did it just stop working one day?

Thanks,
Jeff

Does it flicker after you push the No Show button? That may determine if it is the bulb or not.

Does it flicker after you push the No Show button? That may determine if it is the bulb or not.
Not sure - but I will certainly check when I get home. Question - what exactly does the "no show" button do? Honestly I've never used it. From what I read, it almost sounded like a sort of hybernate mode where no light is being emitted. If that's true, I don't understand how this test will show me if the bulb is dying.

Thanks,
Jeff

You are right, it makes the screen go completely black. I think they have it for presentation purposes, Not sure. Anyway, if it doesn't flicker when it is on no show I would think it would be a problem with the projector processing images or something, or possibly the source. If it still flickers when the no show is lit, I would think it is the bulb having problems. Just a guess.

Anyone have any other ideas?

affeking, please let us know what you figure out.

What are the best "tweaked" settings for the Z3 using "powerful" mode and NOT using a filter? I have a Carada High Contrast Grey screen and do not like using a filter.

affeking, please let us know what you figure out.
Well, I called technical support at the store where I purchased the unit. They told me it sounded like the bulb was going, although the guy didn't sound too sure about it. He did say that if I mailed it in for repair to Sanyo and they determined it was the bulb they'd charge me for a new bulb and labor (even though I'm under warrenty). So, its starting to sound like testing a new bulb is the way to go.

He also mentioned I might want to try reseating the bulb. I took down the PJ and did a thorough cleaning of the filters and case, then reseated the bulb. I was able to watch a movie last night and not notice the flicker. Not sure if its really related to what I did, but I'm going to keep a close eye on it.

Obviously I didn't test no show yet, but I'll keep that in my back pocket for when it starts flickering again.

Thanks
Jeff

I had a problem similar to this with my "Outside" projector. After I reseated the bulb everything was ok. Hopefully you're as lucky as me.

I just had a quick question. I just recently ceiling mounted my Z3 and have not cleaned the filters since. For those of you who have theirs ceiling mounted, how often do you clean the filters? It seems like such a pain. Thanks.

I had the same question before and it seems that cleaning every 100 hours is the consensus. That's unless you have a dusty environment. I also followed other users' suggestion to record the date of cleaning as this could help in dealing with customer service & warranty issues.

Thanks for your response. I have another question too. If I know I won't use my projector for a couple of days is it okay to turn off the projector completely? What are your opinions about this? Thanks.

Thanks for your response. I have another question too. If I know I won't use my projector for a couple of days is it okay to turn off the projector completely? What are your opinions about this? Thanks.

Yes if you're talking about turning off the switch at the back and as long as the fan has stopped running. I believe there is no problem doing this. As for benefits, probably savings of about $5 a year in electricity... :)

Every 100 hours? OK i have it in the dedicated basement HT vacuumed weekly with a central vac (ooutside exhaust) system and just blew the panels at 1100 hours for the first time. Reason was that a dust blob caused dimming in the center bottom. Now back to normal.

When i retire i promise ill blow every 100 hours, until then i have 30 more years of work and three kids to change diapers on :)

Um. I'm abit worried. Noticed recently the center of the projected Z3 image I am projecting onto my large 150" screen, is slightly discolored. It's looking yellowish. Can't notice it untill there is a really white section in a film or when I have the computer running through it (due to the white background color found in most menus). Has anybody seen this? Would a clean help? It hasn't been that long since I cleaned the filters but surely that should not affect it in this way.

Os

ossie check your filters, they do wear down due to the heat/light. may need replacing. hold them up to light and inspect the image path area. if you see some discolouration you need to get a new cc30r.

I thought I heard before that the Econ-mode for the bulb includes the A1 and A2 settings on the lamp. Is this true?

The reason being I got a really good calibration tweaking the dynamic setting for use with my xbox360. My movie settings made the 360 look too dark. Does anyone have specific settings for use with the 360?

Thanks for the reply Sainthalo.

Hmm, it has left me puzzled though. I was not even aware I had any filters. How do I check them and if they do need replacing, how much roughly would it be?

Os

Um. I'm abit worried. Noticed recently the center of the projected Z3 image I am projecting onto my large 150" screen, is slightly discolored. It's looking yellowish. Can't notice it untill there is a really white section in a film or when I have the computer running through it (due to the white background color found in most menus). Has anybody seen this? Would a clean help? It hasn't been that long since I cleaned the filters but surely that should not affect it in this way.

Os

For me it ended up being the blue polarizer that caused the discolouration. My projector has been at Sanyo Servince for 6 weeks now while they wait for parts :(

Thanks for the reply Sainthalo.

Hmm, it has left me puzzled though. I was not even aware I had any filters. How do I check them and if they do need replacing, how much roughly would it be?

Os

Os - I think that the confusion is because sainthlo is speaking of aftermarket filters you can buy and put over the lens to get better color and contrast (see the link in his signature for more info), while you are speaking of the two air filters that should be cleaned every 50-100 hours or so.

Regading the yellow spot, have you tried using the bulb blower to clean the lcd panels through the holes on the bottom of the Z3? I haven't done it myself yet, but the instructions are on page 46 of the manual.

Hope this helps.

I thought I heard before that the Econ-mode for the bulb includes the A1 and A2 settings on the lamp. Is this true?

The reason being I got a really good calibration tweaking the dynamic setting for use with my xbox360. My movie settings made the 360 look too dark. Does anyone have specific settings for use with the 360?

A1 and A2 are "React" image modes for the lamp where the brightness varies with the input. The owner's manual only references Theater Black mode as saving power consumption (and the fan is very quiet).

FWIW, while I don't have an xbox360, and have concentrated on DVD and HDTV tweaking, PC games look much better/brighter to me if I use the "Natural" preset and set the lamp mode to Theater Black. I never really notice any appreciable difference in brightness in the other lamp modes so I always run Theater Black no matter which preset I select.

How do I put Theatre Black Mode as my lamp setting all the time? For example, when I turn on the projector the lamp is at full power. Then I have to change it. How do I keep Theatre Black Mode as my lamp setting all the time? Thanks. :confused:

Make the change either through the lamp button or by pushing image on the remote. Under the image menu, I believe at the very bottom you will need to store the saved settings under one of your 4 user images.

Thanks. I'll try that out.

Had my projector 8 months now. Purchased it due to the threads posted here. Been very pleased with the quality of image, especially with a HD receiver. Definitely worth the money for anyone considering the older model. Now if DVD's can just catch up. Hate losing half the image to bars. Did get an LG enhancing DVD player which definitely helps the image quality. Z3 will be great with Blueray or HD DVD when the price comes down. Thanks to all who posted!

Next week my brother in law invited me to bring my Z3 over to his yard for a movie night, I think we will be watching Rv. I think I am just going to use a large painters drop cloth. I would like to do a 16 x9 screen but will go a bit smaller if need be.

Would the z3 do an ok image 16' wide? We will probably be sitting quite away from the screen which is why I wanted a larger size.

Next week my brother in law invited me to bring my Z3 over to his yard for a movie night, I think we will be watching Rv. I think I am just going to use a large painters drop cloth. I would like to do a 16 x9 screen but will go a bit smaller if need be.

Would the z3 do an ok image 16' wide? We will probably be sitting quite away from the screen which is why I wanted a larger size.

It should be fine. After all you are not appling voe THX certiication. I use a old IF 425lpz for my outdoor theater on a 12ft screen and it looks fine. My Z3 would be much better but I prefer to keep the bugs out of my Z3.

I was worried about bugs as well but a. it is a well sprayed area, b. they have a propane bug out system for camping and c. I am going to put a fan right behind it to keep everything out of it.... unless it goes through the fan. I thought about wraping it in a pillow case to let heat out but we will see. I am more worried about dew and stuff. We are in Indianapolis In and the grass has been getting wet in the evenings and night now. I think a one time thing should be ok. I went to Home Depot today and decided to use 3x4 pvc pipe to make a frame, it will be really sturdy when I am done, its going to be braced about every 2 feet or so. Then I am going to just use painters canvas drop cloth and use clamps or something to hold it in place... easy in easy out. I hope to have pictures by this time next week.

You can get a mosquito net and cover the projector. The will keep the bugs out and the let the heat out too.

Can anyone tell me how to get into service menu. I did what was posted hit both INPUT andMENU on the projector, got the S in the upper left corner. When I press and hold the SCREEN key on the remote nothing happens.

I have read a few threads about lamp life on the Z3, but have a question for which I cannot find an answer.

I just burned up my original lamp at 719 hours. Much less than I had hoped. I ran it in Theater Black mode the whole time. A Sanyo tech told me that A: There was no voltage difference between Bright mode and theater black mode. So lamp life would not be affected by either. He also told me I needed to set the fan speeds higher because I live at about 7,000 ft.

The first thing seems totally wrong to me and the second one seems plausible. Can anyone verify this? I am also going to call back and talk to another Sanyo tech and see if I get the same response.

Also I cannot seem to find agreement in the forum on what is the best practice on leaving the projector on or turning it off.

The the disagreement is leave it on if you are coming back in the next hour or two hours?? Which is it? Also always turn it off after 4 hours as the heat starts building up after 4 hours. This seems like it could become conflicting because if I watch a moving leave for an hour and a half then come back to watch another movie it has probably been on for upto 6 hours.

Had my projector 8 months now. Purchased it due to the threads posted here. Been very pleased with the quality of image, especially with a HD receiver. Definitely worth the money for anyone considering the older model. Now if DVD's can just catch up. Hate losing half the image to bars. Did get an LG enhancing DVD player which definitely helps the image quality. Z3 will be great with Blueray or HD DVD when the price comes down. Thanks to all who posted!I also have (and love!) the Z3 and I recently purchased the Toshiba HD-A1 HD DVD player for under $400 so I'm not sure how low you want prices to be to enjoy this incredible format. Check out he HD DVD forum for more information, but the Toshiba is way less expensive than Blu-Ray and better too.

The only problem is there still aren't a ton of titles out in HD but they are releasing more and more every day. And in the meantime the HD-A1 is an incredible upscaling player for standard DVD titles right now. I totally love it.

There was no voltage difference between Bright mode and theater black mode. So lamp life would not be affected by either. He also told me I needed to set the fan speeds higher because I live at about 7,000 ft.

He's probably right because the power must be the difference between running in Bright and Thearter Black modes. I'm assuming that the bulb gets less current when running in Theater Black. The thinner air at high altitudes definitely affects pj's performance. How is your z3 mounted? From experience you can get totally different and conflicting answers from support reps.

I wrote about flickering on my Z3 a while back. Can't reall if I posted a followup, but I reseated the bulb and everything seemed OK. Now its about 2 months later, and I'm getting flickering again. This time, I can tell its definately only when using the HDMI input. I'm thinking it could be the HDMI cable, but not sure.

Its tough for me to test, because I only have one HDMI/DVI cable. Anyone else had this problem with HDMI only? Think it might be my cable? I'm hesitent to think its my source component, because I'm getting it from both my vid card and my HD card..but then again I guess it could be the PC...

So, anyway, anyone else had this prob with an HDMI cable and/or the Z3 HDMI input?

Thx
Jeff

My polarizer is going bad (yellow area on-screen when white desktop/background is shown).

Is the part user-replacable, or do I have to send it into a service center and pay for it to be fixed?

I'm very handy, but I'm not aware if you can order the polarizer by itself, as a consumer.

bump, anyone had to deal with a yellowed polarizer?

I wrote about flickering on my Z3 a while back. Can't reall if I posted a followup, but I reseated the bulb and everything seemed OK. Now its about 2 months later, and I'm getting flickering again. This time, I can tell its definately only when using the HDMI input. I'm thinking it could be the HDMI cable, but not sure.

Its tough for me to test, because I only have one HDMI/DVI cable. Anyone else had this problem with HDMI only? Think it might be my cable? I'm hesitent to think its my source component, because I'm getting it from both my vid card and my HD card..but then again I guess it could be the PC...

So, anyway, anyone else had this prob with an HDMI cable and/or the Z3 HDMI input?

Thx
Jeff

I have flickering problem too. But mine does it with HDMI and VGA inputs (RBG-VGA)
As soon as i put it to higher mode (a1, a2, high), flickering goes away. I must also try to reseat lamp.

Maybe there is some setting in the service mode, what affects to lamp voltage/current in the low-mode? If i can raise it a bit, maybe it does not flicker??

I have service manual, but it does not explain service mode adjustments correctly, there is thousand and one adjustments, and don't know what one is right. :confused:

After several hours of reading all the info in this thread I was able to find my bulb life reading.

1951 hours full power
4 hours eco power
1955 hours total (and still going strong).

My Z3 purchased in July 2005.

Can anyone beat it?

Adam

bump, anyone had to deal with a shot polarizer?

never mind

2247 hrs and still going like that dam bunny

Hello. I have a question about the lamp settings for the Z3. I want to turn it to theatre black mode and save that setting so next time I turn on the projector I don't have to switch it to theatre black mode. How do I do this? Thanks.

Whenever you select an input on the Z3, it automatically switches to the video settings preset you last used for that input. Save your settings including Theater Black mode in one of the 4 User-defined presets, and you should be good to go.

I've had my Z3 for about two years, I've changed the bulb once, I've had no problems with it.

A few weeks ago I noticed a small group of blue projections start growing at the bottom of the projected image. As time went on the projections grew to look like blue clouds emanating from four 'spouts' and extending the entire height of the image. They do not obscure the image, just give it a blue sheen in the cloud area. The cloud gets bigger or smaller as time passes.

Ideas?

I have the exact same problem as Hamerhokie...I cleaned out the lamp area and blew out the dust holes and it is still there...

[QUOTE=A few weeks ago I noticed a small group of blue projections start growing at the bottom of the projected image. As time went on the projections grew to look like blue clouds emanating from four 'spouts' and extending the entire height of the image. They do not obscure the image, just give it a blue sheen in the cloud area. The cloud gets bigger or smaller as time passes.[/QUOTE]

That sounds pretty wild - can you post a picture?

Here are a few comments that might help -

1. The bottom of the projected image corresponds to the "top" of the LCD panels in the projector - this should be the hottest panel edge (heat rises), so this effect may be due to heat.

2. It sounds like inside the "clouds" the image is more blue. Is there any blue image detail in those areas, or just a "cloud" of blue washing over the image? To easily check, you need an image with known blue detail that you can clearly see in that area, or you can look through a blue filter if you have one. Alternatively, if you can display the internet on the Z3, you can go to http://walvisions.com/TestPatterns.html and select the Convergence Pattern (WV-52), which has separate red, green and blue detail throughout the image. If there is no blue detail in those areas, the problem is likely in the blue LCD panel - it may be separating a little with heat - if so, I would expect the clouds to grow as the projector heats up, and to possibly contract when it cools down.

3. The blue polarizer and LCD panel run hotter that the green and blue, as the blue light carries more energy, so the blue channel is most likely to have failures. Currently my Z3 image shows as somewhat yellowish in a large area in the center, which is most apparent during hockey games as the white ice surface is clearly not as white in the center. I'm thinking that this is due to the polarizer. I've also noticed that the blue panel will take a short term "burn", as it will temporarily retain a static image from a computer that has been left on for a few minutes. This probably indicates an aging blue panel. If you want to check these characteristics on your Z3 (or any other LCD projector), go to the above link and display the full field patterns, WV-61 to WV-72; the gray and white levels should show aging effects of any color, and displaying the individual colors should precisely identify the problem color.

4. The Z3 warranty is 3 years - apparently these problem projectors are all about 2 years old. Hopefully Sanyo will recognize and repair the defective polarizers and panels.

That sounds pretty wild - can you post a picture?

Here are a few comments that might help -

1. The bottom of the projected image corresponds to the "top" of the LCD panels in the projector - this should be the hottest panel edge (heat rises), so this effect may be due to heat.

2. It sounds like inside the "clouds" the image is more blue. Is there any blue image detail in those areas, or just a "cloud" of blue washing over the image? To easily check, you need an image with known blue detail that you can clearly see in that area, or you can look through a blue filter if you have one. Alternatively, if you can display the internet on the Z3, you can go to http://walvisions.com/TestPatterns.html and select the Convergence Pattern (WV-52), which has separate red, green and blue detail throughout the image. If there is no blue detail in those areas, the problem is likely in the blue LCD panel - it may be separating a little with heat - if so, I would expect the clouds to grow as the projector heats up, and to possibly contract when it cools down.

3. The blue polarizer and LCD panel run hotter that the green and blue, as the blue light carries more energy, so the blue channel is most likely to have failures. Currently my Z3 image shows as somewhat yellowish in a large area in the center, which is most apparent during hockey games as the white ice surface is clearly not as white in the center. I'm thinking that this is due to the polarizer. I've also noticed that the blue panel will take a short term "burn", as it will temporarily retain a static image from a computer that has been left on for a few minutes. This probably indicates an aging blue panel. If you want to check these characteristics on your Z3 (or any other LCD projector), go to the above link and display the full field patterns, WV-61 to WV-72; the gray and white levels should show aging effects of any color, and displaying the individual colors should precisely identify the problem color.

4. The Z3 warranty is 3 years - apparently these problem projectors are all about 2 years old. Hopefully Sanyo will recognize and repair the defective polarizers and panels.

I have all of these problems as well. I have called Sanyo. I just faxed them my proof of purchase. I hope to be getting their RMA for warranty repair soon.


Adam

I called Sanyo as well and I just shipped them my Z3. The tech said it could be a lot of different problems & they would have to take a look at it. He said depending on how much build up is in there that the warranty may or may not cover the repairs. I just made sure to clean everything before I shipped it off so hopefully they will cover it...

I have a Sanyo Z3 and I am just noticing that on the far left edge of my screen I'm seeing a soft blue hue like show up. Does anyone have any idea. I recently changed a lamp but don't remember seeing it till now. The lamp has about 25 hrs on it.
Thanks

Frank

I have all of these problems as well. I have called Sanyo. I just faxed them my proof of purchase. I hope to be getting their RMA for warranty repair soon.


Adam


I heard back from Sanyo. They won't cover the repairs under warranty.

"The technicians have look at you unit and found dirty air filters and overheated panels. Because of the condition of the filters and the unit the technicians are unable to cover this repair under warranty. This will fall to an out of warranty major repair. I will send through the corresponding paperwork for this unit.

" X "Major (requires large component replacement) ... -or-
600.00
" " Intermed (requires small component replacement) ... -or-
400.00
" " Minor (adjustment, cleaning, or small parts) ... -or-
200.00
" " Cleaning (cleaning of internal optics only ) ... 100.00"


I cleaned this unit regularly so I don't get it. Why is it my fault?

Call your dealer and see if they will help. It sounds like Sanyo is using the same warranty denial tactics with the Z3 as they did with the Z2:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=611288&highlight=z2+warranty

Call your dealer and see if they will help. It sounds like Sanyo is using the same warranty denial tactics with the Z3 as they did with the Z2:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=611288&highlight=z2+warranty

Oh man, you're kidding... That means they will likely refuse repair to anyone's projector; Z1 thru Z4 or whatever they are up to now... Does that also point to a likelyhood of a two or three year lifespan for these units? Mine is coming up on two years old...

Sanyo's warranty is worthless. I am convinced of that now. This seems to be their M.O.

My next projector will NOT be a Sanyo.

I have question guys. I have a Sanyo Z3 and I would like to put the lamp mode to ECO forever and save the setting. How do I do this? Sometimes I forget to change the lamp mode from normal to eco and then I waste the lamp. I hate this. Can someone help me. :confused:

tennis - I thought I answered a similar question for you about 12 posts back.

My Z3 is never in high-lamp mode because I always select the user-defined presets I created, which are all set to Theater Black mode.

Since the Z3 always reverts to the last preset used for each input, the only way my projector would go into high lamp mode would be if I accidentally pressed one of the built-in presets with high-lamp mode or the lamp button on the remote.

What else do you need to know?

Sanyo's warranty is worthless. I am convinced of that now. This seems to be their M.O.

My next projector will NOT be a Sanyo.

That is unfortunate but I agree with you. It isn't right to base a purchase decision, even partly, on the warranty and find out they will not honor it.
If this is a widespread problem, I wonder if we could report it to someone?
May not help us much but it could force Sanyo to correct their ways...

I intend on upgrading my projector to 1080p by next year and if Sanyo has one out it will NOT be considered. Its too bad too because Sanyo has a good price/performance ratio.

Would an aftermarket warranty be better I wonder? Like one from Mack or NSI?

After several hours of reading all the info in this thread I was able to find my bulb life reading.

1951 hours full power
4 hours eco power
1955 hours total (and still going strong).

My Z3 purchased in July 2005.

Can anyone beat it?

Adam

I'm sure this is somewhere in this long thread...but, how do I find this information?
Thanks!

Hold down the power button on the remote for 30 seconds.

Well I'm discouraged on what I have been reading here regarding the problems with the Sanyo Z3. I've had this unit for 2 years and just replaced my bulb which now has 75 hrs on it. The first bulb had 2200 hrs on it with no problems and now I have this blue hue that others have described. I assumed the problem was with the bulb, but after reading other posts sounds like a unit problem.. Any comments would be appreciated.

Well I'm discouraged on what I have been reading here regarding the problems with the Sanyo Z3. I've had this unit for 2 years and just replaced my bulb which now has 75 hrs on it. The first bulb had 2200 hrs on it with no problems and now I have this blue hue that others have described. I assumed the problem was with the bulb, but after reading other posts sounds like a unit problem.. Any comments would be appreciated.


How often do you clean the units 2 filters?

I just got off the phone with Davin. Told him I was still waiting for the pictures/update.

He told me he did go down to look at my projector but hasn't spoken to the tech yet. He said something to the affect that the dirty filter determination doesn't seem to go with the overall condition of the projector. He needs to speak with the technician before figuring out what to do for me.

I then asked him to clarify about the condition of my projector since he saw it. He stated it was much cleaner than most units they get in. That the projector showed signs of being taken care of (I know I shouldn't end sentences with a preposition - although with this comment, I didn't).

I also mentioned the auto shut off feature mentioned on page 45 of the Z3 manual. He stated if the temps rise just a little it may not be enough to shut it off but slowly cause deterioration. Once the deterioration starts any heat can damage the inside (glass/mirror).

How often do you clean the units 2 filters?
I'd also be interested in hearing how often everyone cleans their filters, as well as how long the fan runs after shut-off to dissipate the built-up heat.

I clean my filters about every 50 hours or once a month - there's never anything on them, but I vacuum anyway. The fan only runs for around 30 seconds after shut-off, whether the projector has been on for 2 hours or 6 hours.

How often do you clean the units 2 filters?

I've actually only cleaned them when I changed the bulb.... is the problem irreversible?

The only way to reverse that I know is to replace the parts.

Davin called me a few hours later.

He stated he spoke with the technicians about my projector, the way he put it (or rather the way he made it sound) he was able to convince the techs to do the repair as covered under warranty.

He said the unit would ship NLT Tuesday.

I am very happy.

Davin called me a few hours later.

He stated he spoke with the technicians about my projector, the way he put it (or rather the way he made it sound) he was able to convince the techs to do the repair as covered under warranty.

He said the unit would ship NLT Tuesday.

I am very happy.

Good for you - I sure hope they keep this up. Let's see if it works.

Now martingbeckner, you have NEVER cleaned your filters outside of the time when you replaced the bulb?

Davin called me a few hours later.

He stated he spoke with the technicians about my projector, the way he put it (or rather the way he made it sound) he was able to convince the techs to do the repair as covered under warranty.

He said the unit would ship NLT Tuesday.

I am very happy.

That's good to hear especially that you were able to talk to a sane person. It seems that their techs assume owners do not take care of their pjs. I clean the filters every 100 hours (& record dates) and it makes me wonder if I should I have taken pictures as well.

Is it really worth the hassle to get a Sanyo at this point? They seem to require quite an effort to maintain their projector at reasonable and fair cost. Even though I'd rather get the Z5, I'm starting to think it would be better to get the AX100 from Costco. It may not be as good but the headache would certainly be less.

I agree. I have a Z3 and I love it. No problems at all but when the time comes. I am going with a different brand. Kind of a bummer

Johnny, I just took a peek at your site and at first was stunned at the black levels you are getting on a white screen and then noticed you are using a filter. A few questions if I may. 1. where did you get this, and whats the price area on it? 2. How did you attach it? 3. Is the projected image as dark and deep as the pictures represent or are there any enhancements? I have been using different shades of gray screens for almost a year now and still have not acheived that level of darkness and thats pretty much exactly what I want. How much does it affect the whites or colors?

Sorry to hijak the current discussion and you are welcome to pm me the results.



As far as the warranty issues are concerned, I had spoken to someone re: getting my unit serviced. I have owned it since April and there has always been a greenish glow in the lower left corner. They sent me details on getting fedex to pick up and what not but in the meantime I took a new job with different hours and now nobody is home during business hours to pick up / drop off. Can anybody think of other options? I would ship to my work but we use a mail room and I have had things sent to me there before and it was almost a week before I actually got somebody to find my stuff.

I clean my projectors case, filters, blow holes etc. once a month. I have never had dust in the filters and it works well. It has overheated once and I will take the blame for that as a dvd case was left beside the vent and it went unnoticed ( shhh) but the greenish glow was present was there from day one. What kind of issues am I going to run into, is it even worth sending it in at this point? I would openly tell them about it overheating but I am just worried they would hit me with a big denied stamp and send it back, wasting even more of my time.
( Sanyo has wasted over 300 hours of my time since April!)

Chadci-
My image looks great at home but it does not look as good as the pictures show. The camera does some correcting of it's own. That is why screenshots are pretty useless. I am using a CC30 filter from sainthalo. Search for his name in this thread and you will find it everywhere. He was kind enough to send many members filters and calibation settings for the best image possible out of the Z3. I just have it taped onto the lens ring. Nothing fancy.

Grey screens with a higher gain will get pretty close to what you are looking for quickfire is using a greywolf screen and has had very good results.

BTW - I have had a slight green tint on the sides of my screen since day one. I had to adjust the iris settings to eliminate / reduce the artifact.

tennis - I thought I answered a similar question for you about 12 posts back.

My Z3 is never in high-lamp mode because I always select the user-defined presets I created, which are all set to Theater Black mode.

Since the Z3 always reverts to the last preset used for each input, the only way my projector would go into high lamp mode would be if I accidentally pressed one of the built-in presets with high-lamp mode or the lamp button on the remote.

What else do you need to know?

Thanks ajstan99. When I click one of the four user setting preset buttons, it reverts back to full lamp. When I turn on my projector I usually turn my xbox 360 on at the same time so it automatically changes to the xbox 360 screen. That is my situation. What do I do after I see the xbox 360 dashboard?

The only reason I hate to manually switch from full lamp to eco is because sometimes I forget and then I waste lamp hours. Thanks for the help though.

Do you know how to create and save a preset? Check out pages 28 & 29 in the owner's manual. It will show you how to adjust settings (including lamp mode) and save them.

You will have to save a preset for each input you are using. If you need more help, let me know.

Looks like they repaired everything. No more blue clouds, no more temporary screen burn and no more off-white hue in the center.

Looks like they replaced the large filter too.

The only thing I notice now (can't say how much of a problem it was before) is the top of the picture is not in a straight line. I would say the top left corner is the one that is off. The bottom of the picture is a straight line left to right.
It's not a keystone or level problem.

Still very watchable.

I cleaned them once before, and when I changed out the bulb. Looking for the manual to see what is the proper cleaning recommendation.

Z3 woes, actually enjoy the Z3 alot but a seres of unfortunate incidences recently.
The Z3 and original lamp (2999 hrs) was 10 months old this October and some dimming was evident. I use the Z3 alot for gaming, movies, and hockey games. Filter and dust maintenance is done on a 3 to 4 week schedule and the projector is in a room avg 67 degrees. Anyways so I bought a new lamp, installed, ran fine, and blew 6 day after the 30 day warranty. Pure agony, but that's part of owning a projector! SO, the Sunday before Thanksgiving, I ordered a new lamp w/ a 6 month warranty and next day FedEX shipping. It arrives on Tuesday and I get a call from FedEX that they need a corrected address (the supplier did not put in the apartment #) and they would deliver on Wednesday- I went to FedEX and picked it up myself (no problem). I'm figuring new lamp, 6 month warranty, lots of hocky an football over the holiday! I go to install the new lamp, and...... the wrong lamp was shipped !!! The invoice and original order was correct, but they sent the wrong lamp. So i fired off an e-mail late Tuesday night to customer service and no reply as of today (not that I expected any because of the holiday). I did get to seen hockey and football, allbeit in a drunken state at the local sports bar! Was considering getting a plasma or LCD TV, but I really do like my Z3. Sorry for the rant and length, everybody just laughs at me here! LOL :)

I was just reading that the Z4's trap door closes and shuts with the power button. Is this true, also, are there any settings to make the Z3 do this? Right now its not that big of a deal but put our Christmas tree up the other day and are having to do some serious rearranging ( to accomadate the 96x54 gray rectangle on the wall) and it may be difficult to reach the projector in the near future. Also, what would happen if it stayed open all of the time? I assume dust build up would be horrific.


Also, I know a simmilar topic has been discussed, but, I have a few streaks on my lense from trying to wipe it. I used a "glasses" cloth to do it and I can tell that the streaks are not scratches but I can see them in brighter and colorful scenes and its a bit annoying.Whats the best way to handle this? It is hard to be thorough in such a tiny area.


AND one last thing..

The wife and I watched The Blue Lagoon last night. So So movie and I have probably seen it half a million times just to see Brooke Sheilds nude ( Hey, im my younger years, of course ;) ) and parts of this dvd blew me away. The picture quality was stunning, it was like watching a newer big budget polished movie. Granted some parts were grainy and some parts just looked like an old movie.. some were pretty awesome

I was just reading that the Z4's trap door closes and shuts with the power button. Is this true, also, are there any settings to make the Z3 do this? Right now its not that big of a deal but put our Christmas tree up the other day and are having to do some serious rearranging ( to accomadate the 96x54 gray rectangle on the wall) and it may be difficult to reach the projector in the near future. Also, what would happen if it stayed open all of the time? I assume dust build up would be horrific.

Yes its true the lens door on the Z4 open and closes automatically. That was one of the features that sold me on the Z4 last year. I do not think you could do this on the Z3 without adding some sort of motor and a lot of tinkering......probably not worth it. Why don't you just treat yourself to a new projector for Christmas :D

There is no way I could buy 2 projectors in one year and get away with it!

Hi all,

I have been using a Z3 for 18 months, and it's working fine
(crossing fingers). I would like to peek at the service manual
for the Z3, but the link seems to be broken :-(
Is there any other place where I could obtain the service manual ?
I would like to see instructions/cautions on how to open
the Z3 and remove the dust from it.

Thanks for your help, regards

nz0 - Projectorcentral.com has a link to the user manual. Just search for the Z3...

Good luck dude...18 months is a long time to go without cleaning...

Sanyo still has my Z3 after 2 months of not honoring the warranty...

What do you mean they still have it? Why won't they send it back?

They'll send it back...unrepaired. They want me to pay to have my defective projector repaired despite the fact that it should be under warranty.

Gotcha, that really sucks. I would suggest you get a consumer advocate involved, or threaten to dispute them with mastercard or visa assuming you used one of them for the purchase.

Chadci - Getting Visa involved is a really good idea. I will definitely try that angle. Thank you.

I already tried the BBB without resolution.

Well I guess after reading I should post my resent problem. Last night while playing some video games with my brother-in-law my bulb popped, what a horrible sound. I had thought that the image seemed dim but I wasn't sure. I have only had the projector for a year and had just cleaned the filters a couple weeks prior, though it was the first time. The filters didn't seem dirty I didn't think they actually needed cleaning. I was wondering if I'm at fault for cleaning neglegence or if it was a bad bulb fluke. I have no idea how many hours I have on it as I can no longer turn on the projector but Merry Christmas I get to shop for a new bulb :(

Crap. I came to this thread hoping there was some simple solution to the blue fan of light I have spreading from the bottom to the top of my picture, but now it's looking like this is a repair situation... and Stinkmeat doesn't seem to have had much luck getting his repaired.

My Z3 is still on the original bulb (3,275 hours, so I just ordered a new one two days ago), is cleaned about every three weeks, and was purchased in March of '05. I thought this was just a dust blob, but after repeatedly blowing out the panels, the discoloration is still there.

So basically, I have to call Sanyo for RMA and pray they want to cover it, huh?

Update: Played a little Hexic on my 360 last night... for like maybe 20 minutes. When I changed my Z3 back over to my HD cable box, the blue fan-shaped area had retained the honeycomb pattern of Hexic. So... I'm pretty much in for a service call, I guess. That can't be normal.

Yep that's very similar to what happened to me. I had a spreading blue film over everything I watched. Hopefully you will get better service than I did...make sure you tell them you cleaned your filters every time you watch...

Crap... my new bulb order fell through. I'm afraid to send it to Sanyo with a bulb over the 3,000 hour recommendation, because they'll likely try to blame it on that. Anyone know a RELIABLE place to get a bulb for this thing? I hate spending $300 on it if they're going to try to charge me to repair the projector anyway.

I'm not sure what to do.

I think when it comes time to upgrade we should steer clear of Sanyo. It's not cause their products fail. IT that they fail during the warranty period and they refuse service. It just too bad we assume they will deny any and all warranty claims.

When the time comes I am going with something without LCD panels.

But I am at 500 painless hours with my Z3 and am very pleased with it (KNOCK ON WOOD).

Best of luck Jeremy

Well, I've decided not to buy a new bulb. I'm just going to send it in as is (3,300 hours on the bulb) and see what Sanyo says. If they say they won't fix it under warranty, then the $300 I would have spent on a bulb can go toward another projector instead and I'll just continue to use the Z3 with the blue tinted areas in the meantime.

That is what I would do too. It looks like you got tons of enjoyment out of your Z3 and can justifiably upgrade to something like the Mits HC5000. It's 1080p and MSRPs for a shade under $5,000. It's a lot of money but I bet that thing ROCKS!!!!

Wait, that's me trying to talk myself into a Mits HC5000. Nevermind :D

Maybe give Panny a shot with that new AX100 or whatever it is. Probably a reasonable jump in performance for a decent $$.

I got my new bulb yesterday and after installing it did the 'hold the power button test' and found that I had logged on a whopping 490 hours before my bulb popped. Here's to hoping I can double that time with the new one. And maybe to ease my mind, if someone wants to chime in, what are the chances I got a bum lamp? I didn't clean the filters for a year but when I did they didn't look dirty at all but I cleaned them just the same. The PJ is in a cool, clean, and dry basement and I never used it for more than a few hours at a time. The day it puked it was only on for 15 minutes. I am worried about using it now wondering if I did something wrong and this second bulb is going to blow too. Anyone?

It's not the number of hours your projector runs that matters. It's how may time syou turn it on and off. If you are going to turn it on leave it on. Don't just pop it on to watch the weather and then shut it off.

Do you tend to turn it on more than once a day?

I almost never turn it on for less than and hour, as it's not my primary TV, and I try not to leave it onfor more than three or four. I finally used it this weekend and I'm glad it's back but I am more nervous now then when I first bought it. :(

Well, I got the call from Sanyo today. Surprisingly, they're fixing it under warranty with no problems. The guy kept mentioning stuff that sounded like he MIGHT be trying to weasel their way out of it... like the usual "it has dust in it" excuse. So I made sure to ask "Well, if you clean the filters regularly and it still gets dust, what else can you do?" He admitted that it just happens and there's no way to keep dust out completely even if you clean the filters every 100 hours.

I kind of laughed when he said that putting a static image on it for like 30 minutes could overheat the blue panel... and I'm like "Not that I would ever leave a static image up for 30 minutes, but... what if someone was using it for presentations? That would mess it up?" It just seemed kind of silly to me that a LCD projector would have an issue with this, but... that's what he told me. I use mine for DVD, HDTV and my 360... so static images aren't an issue.

Anyhoo, they're fixing it and shipping it off today, so I should have it back tomorrow. YAY! And I asked him to update the firmware, since I think mine had the original 1.0 revision, and he said they'd check it and update it. Now I get the fun of calibrating my grayscale all over again. WHEE!

Good Stuff!!!!!
It's like you are getting a new pj.

Yeah, now I have to find a bulb for it (because 3,400 hours is probably pushing it). I figure if it lasts another year, it'll be about time to buy a better one anyway. Regardless, I'm jazzed to get it back fast... 'cause man, going from playing Rainbow Six: Vegas on a 92" screen to playing on my 43" RPTV just felt WRONG.

It's good to hear some Sanyo warranty good stories for a change.

Got my Z3 back today. Note with it said that they replaced the blue panel and polarizer glass, cleaned it out, and washed the filter. Score 1 for Sanyo support.

That's good news Jeremy.

Well here's my answer to "Do the panny AE 700 and 900 have these issues?" Referning to the polarizers. The answer is yes.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=784672

Okay, dumb question... Should I replace the bulb just because it's past 3,000 hours? Because honestly, at 3,400 hours... it's still pretty bright, even for daytime viewing (though I do have blackout shades helping with that). Or am I risking the bulb popping by running it this long?

Anyone else past 3,400 hours on a Z3 yet?

Hey everyone! I have had a Sanyo Z3 hooked up in my basement for quite some time with relatively no problems. However last night when I was watching 24, I started to notice scrolling lines rolling up the screen fairly slowly, but noticably. I was just wondering if anyone had any idea what I could attribute this to and possibly how to fix it. If anyone has any ideas, I sure would appreciate them...

Usually, scrolling lines indicate an electrical problem in the hookups or another item in the house causing an interference problem. Check all your power lines and see if another item is running and causing the problem.

damn 3400 hrs!? I thought i was pushing the limit at 2500!

Scrolling lines usually means you have a ground loop problem. I had the same issue. Whenever my cable was screwed into the box, my projector would scroll lines. Ended up getting this:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=180-075

Screwed that into my cable line just before my box and all was well.

I caved in and got a new bulb for my Z3. Popped it in last night. The strange thing is that the new one really seemed very similar in brightness to my 3,400 hour bulb. Maybe slightly brighter, but not the insane amount you would expect. I held the bulbs side by side and other than some slight discoloration of the reflector around the bulb, they looked very much the same. Maybe I just got really lucky. I threw the 3,400 hour bulb in a box and kept it as a backup.

Hey Jeremy - just wanted to say thanks for the all the work that went into developing the calibration settings that you and ROne posted a while back on the the Z3 tweak thread. I finally got around to picking up a cc30r filter and was amazed with how much richer, deeper, smoother, and realistic everything looks. Wish I would have "upgraded to the Z-3.5" sooner.

AJ

For those of you that are interested, here's a link to sainthalo's PDF with the settings.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=44669

so is it really worth it getting a CC30r filter? if so should i just get one in a camera shop? I mean is it more hype than anything, i wish i could get some more blackness out of my blacks right now, but i figure the filter wont help that, the colors for me look fine

Definitely worth it for me. Blacks are noticeably better and the top and bottom bars in a 2.35:1 movie are far less distracting. The Z3 tweak thread is worth a look as it has a lot of good discussion around how filters improve blacks and colors.

If you can't find a filter locally (I wasn't able to) here's where I got mine:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=Search&A=details&Q=&sku=102664&is=REG&addedTroughType=search

They also carry the Z3 replacement lamp.

Hi folks,

Having used ROne's settings for quite some time, I finally completed a calibration using HCFR and a Spyder2 (after many, many hours of learning about calibration, I still have much to learn!). My settings are for a Z3 (180 hours) with CC30R filter in place, and I use the Z3 in a blacked-out room, with home-made permanent screen (curtain blackout material). Note that the HCFR readings were done from the screen, therefore the readings take into account the characteristics of my screen material, which is how I wanted it. Note also that I'm sure the walls and ceiling would have a certain impact on the settings

I noticed quite a difference between these settings and the ROne settings - it's much more natural, and much better shadow detail. The DeltaE is great now, as is the gamma. Try loading the attached file into HCFR (see the "Display Calibration" form), and you can see the results. Green primary is off, and there is no way to compensate for it, as I'm using the HDMI input (don't want to use the service menu). I used Rec.709 as reference, and the test patterns were 1080i HD from a Toshiba HD-A1 connected via HDMI.

Settings are:
Clear all adjustments to 0
Set to "Pure Cinema"
Color - Mid
Gamma +2 (gamma is too high)
Contrast -1 (set to your environment...)
Brightness -2 (set to your environment...)
Iris -30 ( I only increased this from my previous -40 to get rid of red/green tint on left/right of screen caused by closing the iris - I found it affectes B&W scenes too much - it's a tradeoff though...)
Red +1
Gain Red -15
Gain Blue -2
Offset Red -9
Offset Blue +2

There is a considerable difference between these settings on HCFR and the original CC30R settings. As I say, these are so much more natural looking it really was shocking. I kept my original presets on another userx setting and swapped back and over in MI:3 HD-DVD and King Kong HD-DVD - skin tones are so much more natural, and I see so much more detail than before.

Might not help anyone, but I thought I should give something back, because I have gotten so much from AVSForum over the years...

-rf
And here is the calibration file for anyone interested in seeing what the above settings produced... Not perfect, but certainly close enough for me after about 14 rounds of calibration.... Thanks to all the folks on the Display Calibration forum, especially richlo.

Yeah, my initial calibration started with Pure Cinema, but if you look at the Z3 tweaks thread, we got a lot better contrast ratio out of starting with Dynamic. I just had my blue panel and polarizer replaced and put a new bulb in, so I had to totally re-tweak mine. Picture looks better than ever now!

rmccormack, there's no hype involved. The CC30R definitely improves black. The filter is not being used to alter color - it's being used to remove the blue leakage from blacks, which makes black look much better. You then tweak the settings to fix grayscale and you end up with a much better contrast ratio and grayscale than before. I strongly recommend picking one up. I got mine from BH Photo like ajstan99, but I strongly recommend paying the extra money for the Kodak gel filter instead of the Lee polyester filter. The Lee tends to reflect light back into the lens a bit more (i.e. it can cause double images), and it definitely degrades faster (i.e. the color in the filter fades).

Surely the log gamma must be far from ideal to get a higher contrast ratio (s-shaped)? particularly using "dynamic" as a starting point? - the settings above allow for good gamma tracking across the IRE range, and D65 at around or below delta 2 from 10 to 100 IRE. I would have suspected that if your primary goal is a high contrast ratio you must be losing some detail by introducing a far from ideal gamma curve/log gamma chart, or deviating from D65?
I'll take some time to work through the tweak thread again in the near future to get more background - it was a regular read for me some time ago :-)

cheers,
-rf

ok ill give it a shot, i will go with the kodak filter, do you know how long the filters generally last? also does anyone have any photos of their results? I know its pretty hard to get a honest photo from a still camera, but was just wondering.

retrof - thanks for posting the settings that work well in your environment. FWIW, I tried them, and for me the result was washed out, lacking saturation and contrast vs. ROne's settings. Of course, I'm using different sources and my bulb has around 650 hours on it.

Anyway, always happy to try something new, so please keep sharing. Glad you found something that works better for you.

Settings are:
Clear all adjustments to 0
Set to "Pure Cinema"
Color - Mid
Gamma +2 (gamma is too high)
Contrast -1 (set to your environment...)
Brightness -2 (set to your environment...)
Iris -30 ( I only increased this from my previous -40 to get rid of red/green tint on left/right of screen caused by closing the iris - I found it affectes B&W scenes too much - it's a tradeoff though...)
Red +1
Gain Red -15
Gain Blue -2
Offset Red -9
Offset Blue +2

There is a considerable difference between these settings on HCFR and the original CC30R settings. As I say, these are so much more natural looking it really was shocking. I kept my original presets on another userx setting and swapped back and over in MI:3 HD-DVD and King Kong HD-DVD - skin tones are so much more natural, and I see so much more detail than before.

How much Lumens would i lose with the filter? right now i do not have the most ideal lighting situation and dont want to lose alot of lumens, my screen is 12 ft away from the PJ, however i do have a Hi Power screen and right now i have my iris at like -30 and brightness at 0

anyone?

I'm not well-versed on the subject (so anyone should feel free to jump in and correct or add to this info), but found the following through Google:

According to this site, CC30R is "a red filter with a density of .30, or 1 f-stop"
http://www.bandprodigital.com/cgibin/eDatCat/BPDstore.cgi?user_action=detail&catalogno=SCH-COLOR

I believe that this means the filter will reduce light output by 50%, but doesn't mean the image will appear to be only half as bright to the human eye:

Of course as you'll be adjusting brightness, contrast, iris, and other settings, I would think that the reduction in light output after calibration will be less severe as the filter allows you to boost settings that you could not without the filter.

Also read through the Z3 tweak thread for more info on calibrated measurements with the filter:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=468801

That being said, you could just have a cc30r filter delivered to your door for less than 20 bucks, try it out, and see for yourself. In any case, good luck.

I get the filter tomorrow, time to screw around with it, i think i actually get more than enough light with the hi power screen, ill let you know how it goes

Wow, it looks amazing! never seen my projector like this before, the blacks look a hellava lot better and the color overall is amazing on the hd stuff. Def worth the 25 bucks for the Kodak CC30R filter. Thanks everyone.

Have owned my z3 since August 2005, unit is installed on my family room ceiling via a mount having a 12 inch drop, have cleaned filters every 100 hours. Started seeing blue spots at the bottom of the screen about a month ago. Called Sanyo and advised them of issue. After faxing them original invoice they issued me a QRP number and shipping instructions. Unit left on a Friday via Fedex and was received by them on Monday. Received a voicemail message on home phone @ about 2:30PM Tuesday(I work swing-shift, so I didn't get message until getting home), I call back the next morning, they forward me to the voicemail box of the technician who is working with my projector. I receive call back while at work, advising me that filters are extremely dusty, I start to read to technician EXACT dates of cleaning dating back nine months-copied onto my PDA, after he asks me how often I clean the filters, tech states he needs $600.00 to repair unit, I tell him i'm not paying for anything as this thing is only about half way through it's three-year warranty. Ok, now here's the clincher: The tech then tells me "WELL, YOU DO WHAT YOU HAVE TO DO", and then proceeds to hang up on me. I know there's always two sides to every story, but I not quite seeing how I deserved that. I didn't raise my voice, and I kept the conversation quite civil. I'm not quite sure how to go about getting this resolved, but I know for sure that the z3 is the last Sanyo projector i'll ever own

BurgEnder, I hear you. Although I don't have a problem with my Z3 this will be my last Sanyo projector as well. This scenerio goes back to Z2. Their 3 warranty is not a deal maker the way it is being handled and more like a breaker. You might want to cut & paste to the link below.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=611288

Well, it looks like Sanyo is gonna try to extort me using their fake dusty filter pictures and fax showing me their repair rates. Fortunately for me I actually don't live too far from where their repair center is located so I will be filing suit against them in Los Angeles County as well as filing a complaint with the Federal Trade Commision.

Sorry to hear Sanyo has made another unhappy customer. I just got mine back from them (they had it for several months while I was arguing with them via the BBB & etc..) unrepaired. FTC is an interesting idea...maybe I'll try that too. They sent me pictures as well & stated that it was my fault because it was ceiling mounted & wasn't kept clean (it was ceiling mounted upside down which I understood it was designed to do when I bought it). The techs I spoke to were alternatingly rude and apathetic.

The thing I don't understand is - there are people on this forum who have had the same problem repaired under warranty so how can Sanyo say it was my fault when the product has demonstrated that it fails with regularity, the same way for others and it's Sanyo's fault? They're on shaky logic there IMO...

Holy crap I'm a Z2 owner who was lucky enough to know what to say (thanks to people on this forum) when mine went in for service so I didn't get screwed. I can't believe Z3 customers are now going through the same thing as us Z2 guys went through. Sanyo rots and I'll never buy another Sanyo product no matter what it is. And to think I feel like this and I'm a guy who had his fixed under warranty and I have 5000 hrs on my original lamp(still nice and bright) and can still achieve a AVIA calibration and watch with the ligts on. If it wasn't for Sanyo being such a lousy company and not honoring their warranty I'd be a prime candidate for another Sanyo projector, but because of the way they treat people I'll never buy from them again. I got lucky and my luck might run out next around with them.

Burg and Stink - have either of you tried contacting your dealer for assistance? It would be interesting to hear their response. You would think that with the volume they purchase, they would have a better chance of pushing Sanyo to do the right thing.

I did try contacting my dealer and they were nice enough, but didn't offer much other than to suggest that I try to split the cost of the repair with them.

I didn't think they would help as I purchased it from them (Visual Apex) over 17 months ago.

Assuming that a projector was properly used and maintained, I would think that any reputable vendor would take issue with Sanyo not honoring a warranty for a product they sold and go to bat for you. More importantly, I would also think that the vendor could potentially be liable if they are aware that it is common practice for Sanyo not to honor warranties, but continue to sell their products and essentially misrepresent that Sanyo products have a 3-year warranty.

Also, even though you've had the PJ for over a year, you should still call your credit card company and let them know about it. You purchased a three year warranty and did not get one. Dispute the charge if you can and see how fast the dealer responds when it's their money on the line as well.

Ajstan - some well intentioned good advice. I did try most of these things when Sanyo failed to honor my warranty.


Assuming that a projector was properly used and maintained, I would think that any reputable vendor would take issue with Sanyo not honoring a warranty for a product they sold and go to bat for you.
More importantly, I would also think that the vendor could potentially be liable if they are aware that it is common practice for Sanyo not to honor warranties, but continue to sell their products and essentially misrepresent that Sanyo products have a 3-year warranty.

Also, even though you've had the PJ for over a year, you should still call your credit card company and let them know about it. You purchased a three year warranty and did not get one. Dispute the charge if you can and see how fast the dealer responds when it's their money on the line as well.


I asked the vendor (visualapex) to speak with Sanyo re: not honoring the warranty. Sanyo showed them the fake pictures that I had already seen & then they just recommended that I offer to split the cost of the repair with Sanyo. When I followed up with the vendor later they simply said there was nothing elser they could do. As for the vendor being liable...I haven't sued anybody yet so I really don't know how the courts would interpret that.

I called VISA to let them know & they said they can't reverse the charges because the purchase occured so long ago.

I think these are all good ideas, they just haven't worked...

Wow, that is so wrong. Sorry you have to deal with this, but thanks for sharing your experience so the rest of us can try a different tack should our Sanyo's need to be sent in for service.

This certainly doesn't reflect well upon any of the companies involved. Glad I bought elsewhere (from a forum sponsor) and used Amex. At least there would be some hope for a different outcome.

I just registered here to say that if you are in the UK you might care to try Multicare Electronics Ltd for repair. I had the blue tint thing (on 2950 hours), sent it off last Wednesday and just had an email to say it's fixed and wanting to know when to deliver it back. No moaning about me misusing it or anything :-)

Had my Z3 repaired. Sanyo was very prompt. Shipped it out per their instructions and had it back in 1 week. Excellent service!

Definitely worth it for me. Blacks are noticeably better and the top and bottom bars in a 2.35:1 movie are far less distracting. The Z3 tweak thread is worth a look as it has a lot of good discussion around how filters improve blacks and colors.

If you can't find a filter locally (I wasn't able to) here's where I got mine:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=Search&A=details&Q=&sku=102664&is=REG&addedTroughType=search

They also carry the Z3 replacement lamp.


Hello!

How can I attach this filter on my Z3? Do I need an adapter?

Thanks!

Udo

I just use a small strip of Scotch tape on the top and bottom of the filter to secure it to the case and keep it flush with the focus ring.

Any good inputs on 1080P projectors. Is Sanyo developing one?

I have had my PLV-Z3 for almost two years with zero problems until today I began to watch a movie and everything that was suppose to be red was blue and the faces of the people who were white were baby blue . I first thought it was a dream sequence to the movie I was watching and then realized that the whole movie was this way and that the problem was my projector. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have had my PLV-Z3 for almost two years with zero problems until today I began to watch a movie and everything that was suppose to be red was blue and the faces of the people who were white were baby blue . I first thought it was a dream sequence to the movie I was watching and then realized that the whole movie was this way and that the problem was my projector. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

A few questions to help diagnose:

1. Does this issue occur consistently with all inputs?

2. Does this issue occur consistently with multiple sources?

3. Is the color issue consistent all over the screen or just in a certain area?

If you are using the component input and you recently took the cables out and reconnected them it may be that you accidently switched the red and blue component cables.

few questions to help diagnose:

1. Does this issue occur consistently with all inputs? Have not tried anything but component.

2. Does this issue occur consistently with multiple sources? After removing the DVD I tried another and it was fine.

3. Is the color issue consistent all over the screen or just in a certain area? The color is consistant over the complete screen.

I have no idea what happened when I reloaded the original DVD it played with zero problems.

"If you are using the component input and you recently took the cables out and reconnected them it may be that you accidently switched the red and blue component cables. "

I have not changed anything since the day I installed the system,,,other than ready this thread and making the suggested adjustments to the pictures quality. I have no explanation as to what happened. Like I stated earlier I just thought this was a dream sequence to the movie and they had filmed it that way,,,but after about 20 minutes I fast forwarded to near the end it was the same. All I did was turn the AC down a little from 76 to about 73, checked all my connections. Panicked for about 5 minutes. Pulled out the manual which was no help with troubleshooting what I was seeing on the screen. Came to this thread and searched for the word "Blue" in a thread, and loaded another DVD and it was perfect. I then reloaded the original DVD and It was now perfect.

Copied from the Tweak thread because I couldn't find an answer...


Anyone have any idea what may be going on here (ignore the blur, that's just from the lack of a tripod - the green band is what I'm concerned with)? A scene from the 300 movie trailer sent from a 360 (component input of htr-5999, hdmi output). The component output to my lcd is completely free of this green band and I've never noticed and type of greenish banding with any other sources/feeds.

My Z3 is on its second bulb and I've never had any serious problems with it.

Any ideas?

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a286/wcaughey/300screeny.jpg

and another one:
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a286/wcaughey/300screeny2.jpg

Some questions.

Is the htr-5999 a receiver?

Are you using it to convert a component signal from your 360 to an HDMI signal, which then goes to the Z3?

Also, does this green band exist all the time for all media played through the 360 and sent through the receiver to the Z3 via HDMI?

If so, your problem may lie in the receiver conversion and/or handshaking with the Z3, especially if direct connections to the Z3 inputs do not exhibit this artifact.

Hello,

I have a Z3 since two years. Until now, I have always used it in a HTPC with Zoomplayer Pro. My computer have an ATI-1650-Pro video card which was, until now, connected to my Z3 through a 25 feet cable between the VGA ports. I never had any problems with this configuration. Believing that going fully numeric would increase the picture quality, I recently purchased a 25 feet DVI to HDMI cable and connected my computer to the Z3 through the DVI port. Every thing went well, and I was able to get a better picture quality. However, within 1 or 2 hours of operation, the Z3 suddenly freezes-up in a state where it is no longer responding to any command either from the remote or the Z3 buttons, and the image goes either totally black or displays a noisy image. I even try to reset the Z3 from the back panel reset button, and nothing is happening. The only way to get out of this situation is to turn the power switch off (which action I don’t like to perform because it is also turning off the cooling system and this may shorten my lamp life). This is happening every time.

Has anyone heard about this type of problem before?

Thanks

Bruno

I've used my Z3 about 1.5 years now. Only two times has it ever froze and went unresponsive to buttons. I also had to shut off the power, bypassing any fan cool down.
One time is froze while switching resolutions and inputs.
I don't know why yours would freeze on a DVI-HDMI cable. DVI does not have copy protection ability but I don't know if it has anything to do with it.
Otherwise this projector has been awesome.

Can it be possible that some interference coming from the HDMI cable could jam the Z3 CPU? My computer is located 25 feet away from the projector, and is connected to the network. I wonder if a glitch on the power line, like when my refrigirator compressor starts, could be the cause. This would mean that the HDMI port would be sensitive. I will try to connect my computer and Z3 on a filtered power bar, and eliminate all the large loops in my signal cables.

Hi all,

I just discovered a problem with my Z3 tonight. When I try to turn it on, the green power light comes on along with the fan for about 5 seconds, and then the power light turns orange and the warning light turns red and nothing else happens. It was working fine a couple days ago, when I packed it up to take to a different location. I never used it there, and just brought it home and unpacked it again and found this problem. I was of course gentle in transporting it and there were no shocks to it while I was moving it, but something happened. The manual doesn't describe this light combination, so I'm wondering if anybody has any ideas. The fan works, and I inspected the bulb and it looks to be fine, but never comes on before the lights change. I'm missing my HDTV already . . .

Thanks

Try contacting Sanyo. I don't know what that light combination means. What would it indicate if the bulb went out?

Bruno - HDMI lockups sometimes occur when switching devices. I had that happen with an OTA tuner that would work fine, but would corrupt the HDMI sync and not allow me to switch to my DVD player or PC over HDMI without losing color sync. The DVD and PC would have a green cast, but the OTA tuner would still work if I switched back. I had to power down the Z3 and reboot to get the DVD and PC to work properly (I can switch between those two with no issues), but once I switched to the OTA tuner, I could not go back to the DVD or PC without getting the green tint and needing to power off. When I replaced the OTA box with a tuner provided by the cable company, everything worked and switches properly. It was a bit counter-intuitive that the OTA box that always worked was the one causing the problem.

Sounds like your issue is more severe with a complete lockup, but may be related.

Does this issue occur in a repeatable sequence, or is it random? What other devices are you using for HDMI and can you switch between them without a problem?

Hey Carlo, my guess is it is failing a self check of some sort. If it is the bulb, you would know by the separate bulb indicator light. You mentioned a red light going on too. That is usually an attention getter... Have you called Sanyo yet as suggested by Tim?

...and for Bruno, is your new cable a good quality one? I would imagine the DVI portion is dual link since it is an HDMI to DVI afterall. I'm not positive, but I think HDMI max lenth is 15 meters or 49.5 feet with a 24 gauge or better cable. I run one at around 23 feet with no problems at all.

Here is something on HDMI from www.hdmi.org. Hope it helps. That website is very interesting regarding new HDMI standards:

Q. Is HDMI backward compatible with DVI (Digital Visual Interface)?

Yes, HDMI is fully backward compatible with DVI compliant devices. HDMI DTVs will display video received from existing DVI-equipped products, and DVI-equipped TVs will display video from HDMI sources. However, some older PCs with DVI are designed only to support computer monitors, not televisions. Consumers buying a PC with DVI should make sure that it specifically includes support for television formats and not just computer monitors.
Also, consumers may want to confirm that the DVI interface supports High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection (HDCP), as content that requires HDCP copy protection will require that both the HDMI and DVI devices support HDCP to properly view the video content.

* Your 1650 is HDCP compliant I am almost certain...

FWIW - I am running a 25' 22AWG HDMI cable from a DVI-HDMI adapter off my video card, through a Monoprice 2x1 manual switch and through another 25' 24AWG HDMI cable to my Z3. So a 25' run shouldn't be that troublesome.

50' total plus the DVI-HDMI adapter, plus the 2x1 switch. The thicker cable probably helps. I agree with emtownsend, don't go thinner than 24AWG.

ajstan99 - It seems to lock-up due to some sort of interference, because, the last three times I tried the HDMI link, the Z3 has freezed within two hours at different time intervals. The first time, the screen went noisy and when I disabled my display on my computer, a good image of my desktop was remaining on the z3 screen (like a remaining memory image) but it was locked-up. The second and third time, the image went black instead, but the Z3 was still locked-up. Since, I did not try the HDMI port because I'm afraid to burn out my lamp. I'm waiting to put my hands on line filter and a couple of magnetic cores that I will insert on my HDMI cable to eliminate potential ground loops formed by the cabling between my Z3, my computer and the 120V wall plug.

My computer is the only device that I can connect to the HDMI port and all other analog ports are working perfectly.

I'll give some test results feedback when my filters will be installed.

I have installed filters and I have eliminated all ground loops but the problem remains. My Z3 controls eventually freeze. This time I have noticed that, even locked-up, my Z3 continues to display a disturb real time image through which I can hardly see the computer desktop, and if I switch back my display to my computer main monitor (I’m able to distinguish my Windows menus), then my Z3 will display what seems to be a perfect still image of the last frame sent by my computer before it has disconnected. I have also noticed that I can switch back to the Z3 to get the disturb image again, and switch off to get the same still image but where the Windows task bar clock has changed.

I wonder if the ATI X1650 Pro DVI and the Z3 HDMI ports are fully compatible? I need to know if another Z3 owner has successfully used the Z3 HDMI port with a computer. In the mean time, I will go back to use my VGA cable for which I had no trouble with. Also, I will report this problem to Sanyo.

Hi...I've had my Z3 for about 2.5 years. It gets used for movies only, so it doesn't have a ton of hours on it.

It's been great so far, but when I went to watch a movie tonight the picture is very distorted. It is almost like it needs a sideways keystone adjustment:

http://www.brinkleys.org/users/tsl/Files%2FDistorted%2EJPG

I looked through the manual and don't see any way to adjust a distortion like this.

Any help would be *greatly* appreciated.

Folks,

I have misplaced my remote and was hoping someone has the remote codes for the PLV-Z3 -- either Pronto, UniversalRemote (MX-3000??), or HEX.

Help!

Hi...I've had my Z3 for about 2.5 years. It gets used for movies only, so it doesn't have a ton of hours on it.

It's been great so far, but when I went to watch a movie tonight the picture is very distorted. It is almost like it needs a sideways keystone adjustment:

http://www.brinkleys.org/users/tsl/Files%2FDistorted%2EJPG

I looked through the manual and don't see any way to adjust a distortion like this.

Any help would be *greatly* appreciated.

The projector orientation was probably changed somehow. Turn the projector towards the left until the image is a rectangle, then use the lens shift to move the image back onto the screen.

I have decided to upgrade my screen .....for my Z3....I have the Graywolf 106" ...and up till now was satisfied ....but out of curiosty i had several companys send me samples of the screen material......I never knew that the Graywolf was killing my whites until I put a sample of the 1.0 Da-Lite matte white on front of my Graywolf........The Matte White screen is totally better in contrast and whites.........so I have just about decided to buy a Matte White screen......Anybody have a Matte White screen and Z3 paired together???

If so how does it look??I have my Z3 tweaked with the CC30r filter......anybody had both the Graywolf and Matte White screen?Which is better in your opinion?
I may keep the Grawolf and hang it behind the Matte White!!!!

Bump

not sure, i have a Z3 and a 106" and had a 92 inch gray wolf prior...i got the Da Lite Hi Power and am definitely happy with it

Anybody have a Matte White screen and Z3 paired together???

If so how does it look??I have my Z3 tweaked with the CC30r filter......anybody had both the Graywolf and Matte White screen?Which is better in your opinion?

I have a Severtson Matte White 92" (see link below) and also have a Z3 with the cc30r filter and ROne's settings, which made a significant improvement to the blacks.

http://www.projectorbundles.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=109

With the lights out, people think it's a gigantic TV, not a projector, and are blown away at how crisp the image is. Great for sports.

I always wondered how a gray screen would help compensate for my theater room being mostly white/off-white (ceilng, walls, floor), but was concerned about brightness issues.

Also, is your Z3 ceiling mounted instead of table mounted? If so, as I understand it, your image's overall brightness (not Brightness/Black-level) may be suffering as you may not be getting the benefits of the graywolf's high-gain properties, which reflect light back towards the projector.

Will the cc30r filter fit a Z4?

Will the cc30r filter fit a Z4?

Yes. It's just a 3" x 3" square.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/102664-REG/LEE_Filters_R30P3_3x3_Red_CC30R.html

However, I don't think that the same settings work with the Z4, and you may not even need a filter. You may want to search the Z4 tweak thread and take a look at this doc that ROne posted:

http://www.superlight.plus.com/z4/Z4tweaks.doc

If you're wary to download a Word file from an unknown source, here's a link to an AVS post with suggested filterless settings:

http://www.avforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=253745&page=1&pp=15

Well I ordered a Accuscreen Matte White 106" 16x9 screen today(( For $88.00 it's worth trying ...if I dont like it then I have not lost much money!......I'll let you guy's know waht I think of it in about 3 days.......

PS I have my Z3 table mounted!!!MY white levels even when tweaked are no good when compared to a matte White screen!!!

A HP sample that I used was to bright for my liking...I set about 12 feet from screen!!!!

Well I recived the Matte White screen and installed it in front of my Graywolf.........I can say that the Matte White with the CC30r and tweaked settings....look GREAT!!!!

What i'm going to do is when I want to watch a MOVIE ...i'll use my Graywolf!!!!

When I want to watch sports I'll use the Matte White screen!

I now have the best of both world's!!!!

Anyone using an HDMI switcher with the Z3? I am, and I'm having issues switching between my HTPCs myHD card and my Toshiba HD-A2. I posted about it in the HDMI section, but figured I'd also check with Z3 people since I suspect its the projector at fault.

Does anyone know where I can find notes on firmware releases for the Z3? I am wondering if there might be HDCP fixes in some more recent versions. My firmware was updated about a year and a half ago when I sent it in for service - could be the newest one but I cannot confirm.

Here's my other thread with details..
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=929882

Anyone using an HDMI switcher with the Z3? I am, and I'm having issues switching between my HTPCs myHD card and my Toshiba HD-A2. I posted about it in the HDMI section, but figured I'd also check with Z3 people since I suspect its the projector at fault.

Does anyone know where I can find notes on firmware releases for the Z3? I am wondering if there might be HDCP fixes in some more recent versions. My firmware was updated about a year and a half ago when I sent it in for service - could be the newest one but I cannot confirm.

Here's my other thread with details..
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=929882

The Z3 may have handshaking problems with the HD-A2 in a switched environment, as reviews on the Monoprice site have HD-A2 users switching with no mention of issues.

Some questions to help diagnose:

Do you have another HDMI display you could try, or another HDMI source you could substitute to confirm the problematic device?

I had a similar issue with the 2x1 manual switch and an OTA receiver. The OTA receiver always worked, but my PC and Oppo DVD would have the greenish cast if I switched to either after watching the OTA box. I would have to turn off the Z3 and turn it on again to view the PC/DVD correctly. I could switch between the PC and DVD without any issues. Now that I have a cable box for HD, I can switch and even swap cables with no issues.

I think that there was only one firmware update for the Z3, which was available near the end of 2005 and you should already have it.

Thanks for the response.

Unfortunately, I don't have another HDMI display to test with. I do, however, have two sources - the myHD and the HD-DVD player. I did some more testing last night. I found that simply switching from the HD-A2 to an empty port on the switch and back to the HD-A2 causes the green screen. I also noticed that if I were to unplug the HD-A2 and plug it back in, it would work again.

When doing that test, I noticed that the A2 turns off the HDMI output whenever you switch away from it. Or, at least, the HDMI indicator turns off and goes back on when you flip back to it. I was thinking the issue may be that the Z3 gives up handshaking by the time the A2 finally wakes up, but that contradicts the fact that it works the first time I switch from any port over to the A2.

So, to me this says the issue has to be with either the switch being faulty, or the Z3 not playing nicely with the switch and/or source devices.

Very frustrating. Monoprice said they'd send me a replacement to try, but I'm debating if its worth the effort.

For lack of a better way to put it, I suspect that the HD-A2 is leaving "junk" in the HDMI stream at the Z3 when you switch away from it, and the Z3 cannot recover.

If you had a third HDMI source (like another DVD player or a cable box) you could test switching between your PC and this third device to confirm the operability of the switch. Might be worth a try before you send back for a replacement.

With the HD-A2 down to $198 at Circuit City, I was thinking about picking one up, and it would be disappointing if it didn't play nice with the Z3.

i havent had any issues with my onkyo 605 and jumping around with the hdmi inputs, not sure if thats what you were asking though.

groovy, it seems like my z3 fried its blue panel... As i've read on a german forum i am pretty sure sanyo is not gonna pay for this :-(

Anyone recognise this? (please see attachement)

For lack of a better way to put it, I suspect that the HD-A2 is leaving "junk" in the HDMI stream at the Z3 when you switch away from it, and the Z3 cannot recover.
The only other thing I have to test with is another PC with a DVI output, but of course that will not help if its related to HDCP. Your theory did give me an idea, however. I wonder if shutting the HD-A2 down prior to switching the HDMI port might help. Maybe that would correctly terminate the connection. I'll test it tonight. Another thing I need to see is whether I have the same issue switching from the myHD to an empty port, leaving the HD-A2 out of the test. I can't recall if I tested that.

With the HD-A2 down to $198 at Circuit City, I was thinking about picking one up, and it would be disappointing if it didn't play nice with the Z3.
If it helps, the HD-A2 works great connected directly to the projector. I wouldn't give up on it yet...I'll get back to everyone with what my further testing finds.

Yup, been there-done that. And you're correct-Sanyo is gonna blame you for your broken PJ and try to charge you more than what the z3 is worth to repair it.

Had that same problem with the blue panel. I was still well within the warranty period, so I argued that I had cleaned it regularly, always run it in low lamp, etc. and they fixed it for free. It did take a bit of arguing, but even after they got it in their hands, they admitted that my unit was clean inside and out so they had to fix it. They tried to argue that it was heat-related, so I told them "Well, then maybe you should have figured your fan speeds better if your model has a known heat issue." That shut them up.

But still, if you aren't within the 3 year period, look for a new projector. Replacing the blue panel costs you like $450 if I remember correctly, which would be better spent toward something with the newer panels that won't have these issues.

thanks for your answer.

My Z3 is just 1,5 years old, so it is well within the warranty period. I cleaned everything, so I guess i will try my luck the same way you did. I'm just a bit concernced that they will blame it on the heavy usage, as I have about 2000 hours of usage in 1,5 years... guess i'm just addicted :)

thanks for your answer.

My Z3 is just 1,5 years old, so it is well within the warranty period. I cleaned everything, so I guess i will try my luck the same way you did. I'm just a bit concernced that they will blame it on the heavy usage, as I have about 2000 hours of usage in 1,5 years... guess i'm just addicted :)

You have to have a receipt proving that it's within warranty. Also, the heavy usage should not matter ('cause lord knows I used mine as much or more than that - I'm 1,500 hours into my second bulb after putting 3,400 hours on the first). Just tell them that you cleaned the filters about every 100 hours or so (which you should be doing anyway) and that you don't leave still images on it. And so they don't try to blame it on dirt, give it a thorough cleaning before you ship it off to them, including removing the filters and hosing the thing off with some canned air if you have any handy. The cleaner it is, the less they can try to blame it on dust (which they will).

Of course, I'm assuming that you already tried to use the air bulb to make sure it wasn't just dust on the panels, right?

OK...to follow up on what I was saying before about getting the HD-A2 to work with my Z3 on a monoprice switch...

They sent me another switch that they tested before mailing, and I get the same results. What I've noticed is that I can switch between my HTPC (non-HDCP) and blank ports and everything continues to function when I flip back to the HTPC. I can also switch from the HTPC to the HD-A2 without issue. However, once I've switched to the HD-A2 port, all I see is a green screen when I switch back to any other port. This includes if I were to switch back to the HD-A2. So, I think it is true that these two just don't play nice together, unless its a specific defect with my projector or HD-A2, both of which have the latest firmware.

Let me know if anyone else has had better luck with all of this hardware...

Hi affeking,
I have a similar setup for my Z3.

I have a blu-ray player (BDP-300), HTPC (DVI to HDMI), and verizon fios (hdtv) box connected to the Z3 via a 5-port HDMI switcher (sorry, can't remember the brand). If I watch the blu-ray or HDTV first then switch to the HTPC, then I get the green tint hell (note: this is not the same predator screen issue on the early rev of Z3 software). The HTPC does not re-config the hdmi when it switches to it. The problem is the color space cannot be changed via any menu on the Z3 when hdmi is used, its supposed to happen during the hdmi handshaking when connected. I don't know if this is a DVI issue or just my video card. Switching back to the blu-ray or htdv is fine. The workaround I found is the blu-ray player has the option of setting the color space to RGB, YPrBr, etc. I set it to RGB like my HTPC. So if I want to watch the HTPC, I have to first turn on the blu-ray player and switch to that (the player will re-config for RGB) then switch to the HTPC and that works. Its not perfect, but it is better than power cycling the Sanyo Z3 which is not lamp friendly.

I do not believe the Z3 design anticipated the use of a hdmi switcher so it does not accomodate switching inputs.

Thanks for the info.

I was hoping to try something similar on the A2, but I see it doesn't really have any color space setting. There is "standard" and "enhanced" RGB - so I assume its always outputting in RGB mode. So, I guess maybe this unit and the Z3 just really don't get along. I'm tempted to try a different switch, but I'm guessing I'll see the same results.

Apologies if this has been posted before, but I've never seen it...
A while back I tried connecting my Toshiba DVD player directly to the Z3 via HDMI, and found the picture to be underwealming. The colors were kind of washed out and dark, and I thought I saw a reddish tint. Sharpness looked okay, but certainly no better than with component. In fact, overall I preferred the picture when using component cables.

I tried many things to resolve the issue, including tweaking the z3's color settings, switching to a different (and much shorter) HDMI cable, trying a different HDMI input device (my PC)... all to no avail. Component still looked better.

Has anybody else run into this issue, and if so was there a resolution? Or is this just a general problem with the Z3?

Sanyo has replaced the blue polarizer in my Z3 twice now - both times it 'yellowed' and the pj could no longer show true white or other colors correctly. Sanyo never gave me any trouble about it - they just said it was usage and heat related - I ONLY use the low-bulb setting - and Sanyo also said it was pretty standard for LCD projectors to have the problem. I also had the blue polarizer replaced in my Z1 at one time. They very well taken care of too - My warranty expires in January, so I'm debating trying to get them to install new polarizers now, even though it doesn't really need it.

Last night my Z3 shut down and the yellow "replace lamp" light came on.

I turned the power switch off and on, and the yellow light went off and the normal red stand-by/off light came back on. The projector works fine today, just slightly dim. Does this mean the bulb is at the end and needs to be replaced immediately? Shouldn't the yellow light stay on?
Do you think the bulb is actually bad now that the yellow light is off? The manual says you could risk the bulb blowing up.

The lamp hours show: 1640 normal, 0 Econo and a total of 2460.
Which figure is right? It doesn't add up. :cool:

my Z3 has yellow spots on the bottom corner like someone took a leak on it, i had my polarizer (blue) replaced in july but they never addressed the yellow bottom left corner even though it looks better but i can already see the polarizer going out agian, never run in hi lamp and always clean the thing

Call Sanyo back and insist they fix it - I've had the polarizer (blue) replaced in my Z3 twice now - and I only use the low-lamp setting - but they fixed it perfectly both times.

The lamp hours show: 1640 normal, 0 Econo and a total of 2460.
Which figure is right? It doesn't add up. :cool:
Normal lamp hours are counted as 1.5 times the hours used (1,640 X 1.5 = 2,460). Economy mode hours are counted 1:1.

What is economy mode? There are four choices:

Normal
A1
A2
Theater Black

Are all but Normal considered economy?

What is economy mode? There are four choices:

Normal
A1
A2
Theater Black

Are all but Normal considered economy?
I don't know, although I have always assumed that only Theater Black mode was considered economy.

Economy = using the low lamp setting. It has nothing to do with the mode you run it in, though different modes can use different lamp settings.

Incidentally, my Z3 is again showing image retention on the blue panel (similar to what Dada posted above), which means I'll have to send it in. Fortunately, my warranty isn't up until the end of March. They replaced it last time, so hopefully I won't have any trouble this time.

I still own this great projector :)

I have recently noticed that I can not get the menu guide fully pin sharp all around the screen. If I sharpen the guide when its in the top left - the guide will be soft in the bottom right.

I regularly clean the filters and lens. I have noticed that the lens cap has 3 small screws and was wandering if you can take this off and clean from the inside.

Suggestions would be welcome

Ken

I still own this great projector :)

I have recently noticed that I can not get the menu guide fully pin sharp all around the screen. If I sharpen the guide when its in the top left - the guide will be soft in the bottom right.

I regularly clean the filters and lens. I have noticed that the lens cap has 3 small screws and was wandering if you can take this off and clean from the inside.

Suggestions would be welcome

Ken
I have the same issue, but I'm assuming (and may be incorrect) that it's because of the amount of lens shift I'm using. I'm hoping to get a more uniform focus by repositioning the PJ to eliminate the need for horizontal shift. May do it in the next few weeks or so and will post back with results.

I have the same issue, but I'm assuming (and may be incorrect) that it's because of the amount of lens shift I'm using. I'm hoping to get a more uniform focus by repositioning the PJ to eliminate the need for horizontal shift. May do it in the next few weeks or so and will post back with results.

I have the projector dead central to the screen, so lens shift is zero..

Any other Z3 owners with the same issue? any fix to this?

Ken

^^^^^

Originally Posted by nek
I still own this great projector

I have recently noticed that I can not get the menu guide fully pin sharp all around the screen. If I sharpen the guide when its in the top left - the guide will be soft in the bottom right.

I regularly clean the filters and lens. I have noticed that the lens cap has 3 small screws and was wandering if you can take this off and clean from the inside.

Suggestions would be welcome

Ken

It appears that there may be a problem with the lens, or with the lens attachment to the projector, or with shifted LCD panels inside the projector. I suggest a more careful evaluation of the focus of all colors over all the screen. For instance, if you can use the Z3 to display the internet, you can use this pattern http://www.walvisions.com/PattPages/1-convergence.html.

If all three colors go in/out of good focus together as the lens is adjusted, but the entire screen doesn't come into focus at the same setting, it would appear that the lens is "tilted" (not square) to the projection axis. If the colors never come into good focus, maybe the lens itself has been internally damaged (lens element has shifted). If the problem is with only one color, a panel may have shifted inside the projector.

A few other comments: Note that while the Z3 focus is pretty good, it isn't perfect, so don't expect to see all colors ideally focused over the entire screen. Is the focus different than it has been, or have you just recently noticed that the imperfect focus that may have been present all along? Has the projector been mis-handled - bumped, moved, dropped, etc.,?

I don't think this problem is related to dust, which would make the image "wash out" (loose contrast), or due to heat, which would more likely cause color problems (gray scale, etc.).

Thanks for the response :)

I will have to configure a way to connect the PJ to my PC as its in another room.

I have only really noticed it about a week ago and have had the unit since I purchased it 4 years ago. I did have the lens replaced under warranty due to dust contamination inside the lens - maybe they did not put it back correctly - i don't know

I doubt Sanyo would entertain my issue as its now out of warranty

Regarding the lens cap - is it easily removable via 3 small screws ?

Ken

Sent my Z3 in last week for image retention on the blue panel. Their response was to hit me with $100 charge for "cleaning". I told them there was never dust on the panels, the filters are cleaned regularly and they had just done a cleaning on it a year ago when they replaced the blue panel... They tell me it still needs it. I told them there was no problem with dust in the optics, nothing dust related, and that I hadn't sent it to them for cleaning.

So then they tell me they replaced the filter for the blue panel. Here's the rub: They were already going to ship it back to me for free due to the fix on the blue panel being under warranty... but if I get the cleaning, that moves it to non-warranty status so I have to pay $25 shipping! I told them, "Wait, that's retarded... You already HAVE the projector and are about to send it back to me for free anyway, but if I want it cleaned, you're going to charge me shipping? Send it back, no cleaning, so long as the problem with the blue panel is fixed."

This morning I get a fax that says "USER DECLINED REPAIRS" and that it was shipped back to me. I call them to ask why they thought I declined the repair, and they tell me that just meant I turned down the cleaning and that the blue filter was still replaced. This afternoon, the projector arrives at my office, so they must have overnighted it. I get home, hook it up... dust blobs on the green panel. Keep in mind - I HAVE NEVER HAD A SINGLE DUST BLOB. Not one. I keep the Z3 extremely dust free, clean the filters every 100 hours, and I have 5,600+ hours on it... with not a single dust blob in its history. And yet, I send it to Sanyo, they push for a cleaning, and it comes back dirtier than it was when I sent it to them.

I flip it over, run cleaning mode, and blow the panels off. Put a pattern on it, wait a minute, hit No Show... and don't see the image retained as it was before. And then I notice it - A constant static blue discoloration on a completely black screen. Not as extreme as Dada's example on the last page, but still noticeable.

I'm going to reassess it tomorrow when I have more time to put some test patterns on it, but as of now, it looks like I'll be sending it back to Sanyo next week. It came back in worse condition than when I sent the thing to them, and that's simply unacceptable. My warranty ends March 28th. I'm determined to have it properly fixed before then.

It's crap like this that makes me regret buying the Z2000 two weeks ago.

Jeremy - sorry to hear that you're having the same issues with Sanyo service that many have had. You should try your credit card company for support - they may be able to help.

FWIW, situations like this are why it's great to use an American Express card if you have one. Yes, there is an annual fee, but AX doubles all warranties of one year or less, and extends warranties greater than one year for an additional year. Also, AX will hold the merchant responsible and be your advocate from a position of leverage if the warranty isn't upheld.

BTW, congrats on stepping up to 1080p with the Z2000. I only have about 900 hours on my Z3, so I'm happy to hear that you got 5,600 hours before sending in for service (if this is the first time). How many lamps have you gone through?

Actually, the blue panel was replaced around 3,200 hours and I was still on the original bulb it came with at that time. I replaced the bulb the day I got it back from repair, so I'm only on the second bulb with the Z3. If you run it in Eco lamp mode, you'll very likely get around 3,000 hours before it dims enough that you'll consider replacing it.

My recommendation: If you can get in the service menu and engage Highland mode (to turn up the fan speed slightly), do it. Or do the fan voltage tweaks if you know where to look in the service menu. My issues with the blue panel are obviously heat related, and I think Sanyo underestimates how much cooling they really need.

As for Sanyo's service, I'm not that worried. If the issue is not handled to my satisfaction, I can reach across my desk for a sheet of my firm's letterhead and have it taken care of at an administrative level. ;)

Thanks, Jeremy. Hopefully I can get similar lamp lifespan as you. I always run in Eco mode, and will look through the tweak thread for the fan adjustment you suggested. BTW, I use this mount, which provides very good ventilation:

http://www.customdistributing.com/products/productdet.asp?prodid=4606&Category=Projectors&CategorySUB=Mounts&

One more quick question. When I turn off the Z3, regardless of how long its been on, the fan only continues to run for about 30 seconds. Do you know if that is a set time, or is it controlled by a thermostat?

you gotta ship from your office, when they think your a business client they wont mess with you, i had my z3 fixed 2 times no questions asked ever, the 2nd time they replaced the entire lcd panel

Thanks for the info.

I was hoping to try something similar on the A2, but I see it doesn't really have any color space setting. There is "standard" and "enhanced" RGB - so I assume its always outputting in RGB mode. So, I guess maybe this unit and the Z3 just really don't get along. I'm tempted to try a different switch, but I'm guessing I'll see the same results.
Hey affeking - I'm having a similar issue with the green tint between a Toshiba HD-A3 and an SA8300HDC cable box through a Monoprice 4x2 HDMI switch to my Z3. Interestingly enough, there is no issue in switching on a 32" Envision LCD-TV.

I haven't nailed down the exact sequence, but I can recover and get rid of the green screen on the Z3 by turning on the TV, going back and forth between source devices on the TV output, then switching source devices on the Z3 until a "normal" color picture shows up. Oddly, there will be a normal picture on the TV simultaneously with a "green" picture on the Z3.

If I figure out the "magic sequence" to restore a normal screen to the Z3, I'll post it.

Hello Z3 owners -

I am in desperate need of some help and advise.

I have a DVDO iScan VP30 connected via HDMI to the PLV-Z3.
In certain screen settings, the Z3 only shows bad distortion (see attached photo). Here are the details

If the output of the VP30 is set to 720p, Screen Mode 'Full' looks perfectly fine but Screen Mode 'Natural Wide 2' is distorted.

If the output of the VP30 is set to 1080i, Screen Mode 'Natural Wide 2' looks fine (although cut off on the left and the right of the picture) and mode 'Full' is distorted.

In 576p all modes are fine, except 'Natural Wide 1' and 'Natural Wide 2'.

It does not matter which input source I use, I am even seeing this effect with the internal test pattern generator of the VP30.

The VP30 has the latest firmware.
I tried a different (much shorter) HDMI cable with no luck.

There are no issues when I connect my DVD-Player (a Denon DVD-3910) directly with the Z3.

I had the local Sanyo Service Partner check the projector. They didn't find any issues. The also upgraded the firmware to version 1.0.3. It didn't help.

Finally I sent the VP30 back to the dealer. They tested it and did not find any issues with it. So they sent it back to me. But the problem is still there.

I don't know what else I can do. I still think that there may be something wrong with the VP30. But I have no clue how to prove it.

Or maybe the Z3 simply doesn't work well with the VP30?

Does anybody have any idea what may be going on here?

Any suggestion would be highly appreciated!
Thanks!

I don't have any experience with external video processors, but here are some logical questions to help diagnose:

If the output of the VP30 is set to 1080i, Screen Mode 'Natural Wide 2' looks fine (although cut off on the left and the right of the picture) and mode 'Full' is distorted.
Do you mean "distorted" as in the photo you attached, or do you mean stretched out of it's original aspect?

In 576p all modes are fine, except 'Natural Wide 1' and 'Natural Wide 2'.
What are you seeing that's wrong? Also, why would you use a video processor to send 576p, then have your Z3 scale as well?

It does not matter which input source I use, I am even seeing this effect with the internal test pattern generator of the VP30.
Have you tried a different display other than your Z3? Do you get the same results?

There are no issues when I connect my DVD-Player (a Denon DVD-3910) directly with the Z3.
Does the Denon output 480i/p only, or does it output 720p as well?

Right now, the only thing that I can think of is to check the refresh rate. I believe that it should be 60Hz.

can any one give me there preference for settings on the Z3 to get the best picture without any additional tools other than the remote

can any one give me there preference for settings on the Z3 to get the best picture without any additional tools other than the remote
Try these filterless settings from the Z3 Tweak thread.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7115488#post7115488

Also, it is definitely worth the $15 to get the cc30r filter from www.bhphotovideo.com and use the filter settings that ROne posted.

I don't have any experience with external video processors, but here are some logical questions to help diagnose:


Do you mean "distorted" as in the photo you attached, or do you mean stretched out of it's original aspect?

Yes, similar to what's in the photo.


What are you seeing that's wrong? Also, why would you use a video processor to send 576p, then have your Z3 scale as well?

Well, the picture looks like what's in the photo. Looks wrong to me :D
I am just sending the 576p to be able to compare how the Z3 behaves with and without the video processor. The normal setting of the VP30 is 720p, of course.
The thing is: I am having no problems when I connect the Denon straight with the Z3. Once I connect the video processor, I am having the issues as shown in the attached photo ... at least in some of the Screen Modes.



Have you tried a different display other than your Z3? Do you get the same results?

No, I don't have anything else that has an HDMI input.


Does the Denon output 480i/p only, or does it output 720p as well?

Right now, the only thing that I can think of is to check the refresh rate. I believe that it should be 60Hz.

The Denon outputs 480p/576p, 720p and 1080i. It doesn't matter which one I choose, the problem is always there.


Thank you very much!

Wow, it's really strange that stretching the picture with the Natural Wide 2 causes the picture to break up like that, when Full mode is fine. I'm not sure what would be the cause, but still looks like a sync issue to me. Too bad you can't compare with another display.

At least the Z3's native 720p Full mode works as that is probably what you'll run in most of the time anyway. Can you stretch and zoom the image on the VP30 to fill the screen the way you wish and just keep the output at 720p and Z3 set to Full? Then again, for what you paid, you should be sure that it works like it's supposed to.

Wow, it's really strange that stretching the picture with the Natural Wide 2 causes the picture to break up like that, when Full mode is fine. I'm not sure what would be the cause, but still looks like a sync issue to me. Too bad you can't compare with another display.

At least the Z3's native 720p Full mode works as that is probably what you'll run in most of the time anyway. Can you stretch and zoom the image on the VP30 to fill the screen the way you wish and just keep the output at 720p and Z3 set to Full? Then again, for what you paid, you should be sure that it works like it's supposed to.

Yeah, exactly. I can make it work somehow with the VP30 to fill the screen. I just don't think that such an expensive device should cause these problems. It's a big disappointment.

Hey affeking - I'm having a similar issue with the green tint between a Toshiba HD-A3 and an SA8300HDC cable box through a Monoprice 4x2 HDMI switch to my Z3. Interestingly enough, there is no issue in switching on a 32" Envision LCD-TV.

I haven't nailed down the exact sequence, but I can recover and get rid of the green screen on the Z3 by turning on the TV, going back and forth between source devices on the TV output, then switching source devices on the Z3 until a "normal" color picture shows up. Oddly, there will be a normal picture on the TV simultaneously with a "green" picture on the Z3.

If I figure out the "magic sequence" to restore a normal screen to the Z3, I'll post it.

It looks like the "magic sequence" to restore a normal picture on the Z3 through the 8300HDC is as follows:

* Leave the Z3 connected to the 8300HDC through the 4x2 switch (green tinted screen)
* Turn on the TV
* Select the 8300HDC input for the TV on the 4x2 switch (normal picture shows on TV, Z3 is still green)
* Switch TV to the HD-A3, then back to the 8300HDC. When the 8300HDC re-syncs with the TV it will then also re-sync with the Z3 and restore normal color to the picture.
* Turn off the TV.

Can anyone help. I have a Z3, 96" screen, completely dark room, and HD satelitte hooked up w/ HDMI cable. My question is that Im not impressed with the picture quality, and was wondering if anyone could give me their settings for best viewing. all answers appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!

Can anyone help. I have a Z3, 96" screen, completely dark room, and HD satelitte hooked up w/ HDMI cable. My question is that Im not impressed with the picture quality, and was wondering if anyone could give me their settings for best viewing. all answers appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!

Can anyone help. I have a Z3, 96" screen, completely dark room, and HD satelitte hooked up w/ HDMI cable. My question is that Im not impressed with the picture quality, and was wondering if anyone could give me their settings for best viewing. all answers appreciated!!!!!!!!!!! Didn't the link I gave you two weeks ago help? Those are best known settings around here. Is your satellite box set to output 720p and are you tuned to the HD stations?

I tried the site you gave but still did not get a bright picture, everything still seems washed out even though its in a windowless basement. Its set at 1080i does this matter, and yes the picture quality is as poor on hd as it is on digital. Like I said the images are sharp but the picture color is just dull. I even cleaned all the parts with no difference in quality.

What are your Contrast and Brightness settings? Mine are +2 and -1 respectively. I'm using a 92" Severtson matte white screen and most people think it's just a huge TV when it's on.

For maximum contrast and punch, you really need the cc30r filter and settings. Still, you should be more impressed than you seem to be with the filterless settings.

Also, maybe your bulb is dimming. How many hours has it been used?

I dont know the real bulb hours because I bought this from a good friend who always reset the counter. He had it for a year, but couldnt keeep it because he has a bright room which he could never eliminate all the light. He did recomend a new bulb. I got it w/ a 96 screen for $500. So I know it will need a new bulb. I have the hd set to 1080i, is this better than 720p?. And finally where would I get the filter you recomend because I would really like to get this thing optimized due to the fact it is the focal point of a new room I built just for this purpose. As I said this room is perfect, absolutely pitch black with no windows, so I need to get this up and running, thanks all help is greatly appreciated. PS, my other TV room is set up with a Sony 50" plasma flat panel wich is just awesome, so maybe im just spoiled by that picture and trying to strive for something I cant have.

roaddog -

* You can always check the PJ hours as that counter cannot be reset.

* I prefer setting the source to 720p so at least the 720p stations don't have to be scaled/deinterlaced, but YMMV.

* Here's the link to buy the filter (they also have the replacement lamp for the Z3:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/102664-REG/LEE_Filters_R30P3_3x3_Red_CC30R.html

* You're right. The Z3 will not give as punchy and bright of a picture as a plasma, but should be at least as good (and probably better) than the best picture you ever saw in a movie theater. That being said, I still get the "wow" whenever I fire it up. If you don't feel the same, then something is probably wrong.

My Bulb recently died in my Z3 and I purchased a replacement from myprojectorlamps.com, when I attempted to replace the bulb I can't seem to figure out how to remove the old one from the plastic carriage, it has a metal clip that seems to be holding the bulb in the carriage that I can't remove? Am I supposed to be replacing the entire plastic carriage (with the little metal handle?)

any help will be greatly appreciated!

You replace the whole cartridge with the bulb inside. I think there are clips or a screw that you release and then pull the whole case out. I think the manual gives instructions.

roaddog -

* You can always check the PJ hours as that counter cannot be reset.

* I prefer setting the source to 720p so at least the 720p stations don't have to be scaled/deinterlaced, but YMMV.

* Here's the link to buy the filter (they also have the replacement lamp for the Z3:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/102664-REG/LEE_Filters_R30P3_3x3_Red_CC30R.html

* You're right. The Z3 will not give as punchy and bright of a picture as a plasma, but should be at least as good (and probably better) than the best picture you ever saw in a movie theater. That being said, I still get the "wow" whenever I fire it up. If you don't feel the same, then something is probably wrong.

Yep! I was a 35mm and Large Format 15/70 projectionist for years and can say from first-hand experience that the Z3 will give 35mm a run for its money - in fact, I prefer the Z3 with High-Def material to 35mm. It's a great little projector.

roaddog -
* You're right. The Z3 will not give as punchy and bright of a picture as a plasma, but should be at least as good (and probably better) than the best picture you ever saw in a movie theater. That being said, I still get the "wow" whenever I fire it up. If you don't feel the same, then something is probably wrong.

I actually have a very high gain screen (Vutec SilverStar), so when I fire up the Z3 I get a *huge* WOW effect. It looks about as close to plasma as you can get in a 103" screen, and every time somebody comes over their jaw drops. The Z3 is an unbelievably good match for the SilverStar screen and I highly recommend it.

Actually while we're on the subject, I've seen some of the newer Sanyo projectors in action and somehow my Z3 looks better (even without the high gain screen). In fact I'll even go as far as to say that my Z3 looks better than the Panny 1080p projectors. What gives? Is the Z3 just one of the most underrated projectors of all time? All I know is that despite all the new pj technology that has come out over the years, there is still no compelling reason for me to replace my Z3.

I hear ya, shanksworthy. I'm using a 92" matte white Severtson (nearly 180-degree viewing angle) and most people that see it for the first time think that it's a big TV. A lot of credit goes to ROne who generated and posted the calibrated settings with a cc30r filter. It's definitely within reason that a calibrated Z3 would fare very well against a newer, higher-resolution PJ using only presets or basic adjustments.

I have to admit that with HD DVD, I am beginning to see where the additional resolution could make a huge difference, but not so much as to drive me to switch. In fact, I haven't even been following the PJ forums other than subscribing to the two main Z3 threads and trying to help out fellow owners when I can. Guess that means I'm satisfied.

The Z3 was purchased after more than year of educating myself on PJs and following the threads on the various models. It was apparent that the Z3 threads were far more about optimizing the image and far less about problems than other PJs at that time. The biggest knock was Sanyo service (primarily on the Z2), but I protected myself by buying with Amex to get an extra year's warranty and a staunch advocate should I have problems with Sanyo.

Most likely I'll ride this one out through 2009 and look to go 1080p when the lamp goes (I'm only at 950 hours).

Hi!I want to bye the da-lite hi gain or graywolfII 1.8 screen have any of you have this screens with z3?

Don't know anything about the graywolf II, but the Da-lite High Power looks excellent with the Z3.

What are your Contrast and Brightness settings? Mine are +2 and -1 respectively. I'm using a 92" Severtson matte white screen and most people think it's just a huge TV when it's on.

For maximum contrast and punch, you really need the cc30r filter and settings. Still, you should be more impressed than you seem to be with the filterless settings.

Also, maybe your bulb is dimming. How many hours has it been used?

just got a new bulb pic is much better but want to try the filter, could you tell me again what to use. that link said out of stock, anywhere else to buy it?

just got a new bulb pic is much better but want to try the filter, could you tell me again what to use. that link said out of stock, anywhere else to buy it?

Here's a link to the PDF of the cc30r filter settings from the Z3 tweak thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=44892&d=1130151718

Don't know of any other places to recommend to buy the filter, but I'm sure other larger internet photo supply stores should have it.

Also, here are ROne's filterless settings so you can enjoy now while waiting for a filter:

Rone Natural 6500 +/- 150
Start with Natural preset - turn down lamp, adjust sharpness and set IRIS. I have settled on -52 for Iris, as without the filters you need help to get rid of panel leakage.
C: +6
B: -1
R: +9
G: -2
B: -4
Iris: -52
Gain R: +15
Gain G: +3
Gain: B: -9
Offset R: -15
Offset G: +2
Offset B: 0
Gammas: all 0
Overscan: 0

The Z3 tweak thread has lots of discussion and Q&A about this topic which is definitely worth a read.

ill look for the filter, what does a filter do as I have no experiance. Also looks like I have dust behind the projector lens and tried the air blower thru rgb panels with no result. Can I take the front lens off with out any problems:confused:

ill look for the filter, what does a filter do as I have no experiance. Also looks like I have dust behind the projector lens and tried the air blower thru rgb panels with no result. Can I take the front lens off with out any problems:confused:
There's probably better information in the tweak thread, but as I understand it, the Z3 is somewhat deficient in red so the cc30r filter gives the red a boost. Then you can raise the green and blue levels to where they need to be for a more accurate picture. Finally, there is better contrast as the filter also cuts down on excess light and gives you deeper blacks.

Did you use the high speed fan when you used the blower? See the cleaning section of the manual. Not sure how you'd go about getting behind the lens (open the case maybe?) but Jeremy Anderson and some others may be able to help. Have you checked/cleaned the two air filters as well?

where i can see how many hours use my lamp???I can't find in the menu