OFFICIAL Sony HS50(51) thread [Text View] - Page 20

_XipHiaS_

09-02-05, 06:21 AM

I tried to find correct settings for iScan HD+ for VGA and DVI connection. Can somebody help me out with this?

What are the correct values for these output settings when using VGA or DVD output.
• Format, should timing settings be updated from default, should I use Video or PC for DVD???
• Color Space
• Sync Type
• Frame Rate 50Hz input, 60Hz input.

I have connected Sony 7700 DVD player to HD+ using component and I watch both PAL and NTSC DVD's (movies and TV-series).

The reason I'm asking is that I can't find settings which would give me even adequote detail in dark picture areas. It just looks like all black without any detail or gray and washed because I have set brightness to 80. My room is totally without light, matte white 1.0 gain screen 72", projection distance is around 3m/10feet.

Hm, i have the same problem with my (soon to be replaced) 7700, connected directly with component cable to the HS50. It's almost impossible to get the THX logo to see on disc's with THX optimizer. Via SCART or SVideo to my CRT TV this is not a problem, no component on that, so i can't try it on the CRT. Do you see te same if you connect it directly to the HS50/1? So at the moment, i have my brightness at 70 in combination with custom 3. I don't want to wash out the picture.
I'm going for a Pioneer DV-989AVi and HDMI, or a Sony DVP-NS3100ES or NS9100ES.
My HTPC via DVI->HDMI is OK at arround 50 brightness.

BMELVIN

09-02-05, 09:25 AM

I am looking at replacing my VLP 12 HT (needs repair and new Bulb) with the HS51 and have the top of the line Sony DVD player(cost 1k abt 2 yrs old) that has only component outputs. Would I get a better picture with the HS51 and the Panny s97 via HDMI and new cable or staying with the same DVD player and picking up the iscan HD+ unit. The cost ad ons is only about $300 difference for the iscan?

And how much of an improvement is the upgrade?. Anybody out there replaced thier 12HT with the hs51? I can get the 12 HT repaired for $350 + $500 for the new bulb?

Or should I spend the $850 for repairs and wait another 3 or 4 mths for the new E5 panel Panasonic's or Sanyo's or Hitachi's. Are these unit going to be that much better than the currnet HS51? And how does the HS51 owners feel about the new E5 lcd players coming out?

HELP

JoeFinn

09-02-05, 02:06 PM

Hm, i have the same problem with my (soon to be replaced) 7700, connected directly with component cable to the HS50. It's almost impossible to get the THX logo to see on disc's with THX optimizer. Via SCART or SVideo to my CRT TV this is not a problem, no component on that, so i can't try it on the CRT. Do you see te same if you connect it directly to the HS50/1? So at the moment, i have my brightness at 70 in combination with custom 3. I don't want to wash out the picture.
I'm going for a Pioneer DV-989AVi and HDMI, or a Sony DVP-NS3100ES or NS9100ES.
My HTPC via DVI->HDMI is OK at arround 50 brightness.

This is good news for me actually, if it is indeed 7700 that is causing the problem. I haven't tried to connect 7700 directly to HS50.

I'm looking to replace my 7700 with Panasonic S97 first and maybe later have SDI board installed on it.

I'm struggling to find technically right settings for my HD+ hs50 compo. Is it true that nobody in this forum is able to give me settings and maybe a few lines of text why they are correct. I'm a newbie for these kind of things, but hoping for help.

reaper

09-02-05, 03:23 PM

Thanks for the replies on lens drop and image drift gguys. Mine drops no matter what speed I adjust at. I believe I will live with it for a while but send it in for warranty service in a couple months or so...

mimason

09-02-05, 04:08 PM

JoeFinn

09-03-05, 05:28 AM

I'd set frame rate to 50 for PAL discs and 60 for NTSC. Sync = Bilevel

I assume you are talking about vga, since I cannot set bi-level sync for DVI output in HD+. Why is the bi-level sync correct choice for VGA?

mimason

09-03-05, 07:47 AM

I assume you are talking about vga, since I cannot set bi-level sync for DVI output in HD+. Why is the bi-level sync correct choice for VGA?

If you look on pg 55/56 of the manual there are specs. Looks like 1280x720 is H Neg and V pos for VGA.

mtrx

09-07-05, 02:36 PM

jeffropaige

09-07-05, 03:19 PM

bmelvin--- I think you mean d5 panels not e5 panels but anyway the hs51 is an awesome pj but its going to be dimmer than your 12. By how much im not sure, but if contrast and black levels are a big deal to you (like when you are watching a dark sci-fi movie, star wars for example, and they show a dark scene and it looky sort of milkly or washed out. thats not good contrast or black levels) then the hs51 is great and since the hs60 is coming out you could probably get the hs50 for a decent discount price somewhere. Just make sure you use a store that has a "nice" return policy. I dont think I can name names but most of the forum supporters (banners up top) sell pj's with at least a week trial period to make sure you like it. I dont think you would be dissappointed with the hs51. Just remember its dimmer than the 12. jeff

mimason

09-07-05, 06:34 PM

darkwire

09-07-05, 07:04 PM

If you look on pg 55/56 of the manual there are specs. Looks like 1280x720 is H Neg and V pos for VGA.

And if you are using DVI, I think you have to look at the other spec for HDMI 720p@60, its one of the first modes on pg55/56.

jwitcosk

09-07-05, 10:22 PM

I heard that Faroudja chipset has a well-known issue with macroblocking. Since I'm planning on getting Denon 2910 which has Faroudja chipset I'm concerned if I will have this issue with my HS51? Anyone please help.

Macroblocking can be an issue with the HS51.

I had severe macroblocing with my HS51 paired with a Panasonic S97 until I did the firmware upgrade that Panasonic made available to fix the problem. After the firmware upgrade, I think I saw macroblocking twice in about 300 hours of viewing. Even then I'm not sure it was macroblocking those two times. It could have been something in the source (both time were while watching less than steller DVD transfers).

So, with the HS51, macroblocking can be nearly eliminated with the Faroudja chipset, but it is very player dependent. I can't speak for the Denon 2910, but my Panasonic S97 (with the Faroudja chipset) now has no problem with macroblocking.

John

mrPEPE

09-09-05, 11:12 AM

Everyone agree on this ? :

"Have been trying to decide between the Sony and Panasonic AE700. Real difficult decision. In the end decided there was not very much difference between them.
SONY - As people have said pixilization is noticable more than with the Panasonic. But you can sit further back to lessen the effect. The contrast on the Sony is slightly better than the Panasonic but nothing to rave about. Nice sleek case design.

PANASONIC AE700 - Pixels are not as noticable as in the Sony so it wins there but the Sony has slightly better contrast. Case looks as though it was designed decades ago. Gives a more film like picture.

Basically there is not that much difference that I can see in the pictures apart from what I said above. Which ever one you choose you will probably be happy with.
I went with the Sony as I think the better contrast made the picture slightly better than the Panasonic but then again some one will say the Panasonic has a better picture because of less pixilization. Like I said its a difficult choice and it boils down to two things.

1. If you want best contrast then the Sony.
2. If you want less pixilization then Panasonic.

copter

09-10-05, 04:15 AM

Do you guys ever have to adjust your lens shift to get the image back on your screen after you've set it during the install? Do you ever come into your room and find the image has shifted off the screen? By how much? How often does this occur?

Also, do you guys ever feel/see the lense kind of "drop" a bit when you are adjusting vertical shift? I am just now encountering both of these problems and wonder if my unit is defective or typical. I'd hate to have to adjust my projector everytime I turn it on :(

reaper

I've only had my pj up for a couple of days, and I have experienced both of these issues. I find it shifts more often when I flip between inputs
(going back and forth between component and input A). My pj is mounted in a framed-in box so it is very unlikely that the shifting is caused by physical movement of the pj. I'll give it a few weeks and then decide whether or not manually shifting the image back is too much of a pain for me.

EDIT:
I paid particularily close attention to this problem today. It appears as though it is the actual physical movement of the pj since I noticed the picture shift when the kids were jumping around upstairs. I suspect that has been the route of my problems with the lens shifting.

jschefdog

09-10-05, 02:46 PM

1. If you want best contrast then the Sony.
2. If you want less pixilization then Panasonic.
I don't think it is that simple. The early reports on the Panasonic contained lots of discussion of vertical banding although it seemed to vary from unit to unit. No one has reported this issue with the Sony. I haven't kept up on posts about the Panasonic, maybe they have it under control now.

Also, some people did not like the effect of smooth screen on the Panasonic. Even though it reduces SDE, some said it made the picture too soft.

I also believe the Panasonic is brighter.

I went with the Sony and have never regretted the decision, I'm very happy with the picture. But I never actually got to see the Panasonic in person so can't comment on the difference. If you can't decide based on the info you can find, you may need to see both and decide which one you like more. If you buy from someone with a good return policy, you can always try one then exchange it if you are unsatisfied.

BMELVIN

09-13-05, 09:25 AM

The picture is better BUT it is also dimmer! So I am going to need a much higher gain screen or DIY new paint scheme!

Well I just got my HS51 and hooked it up and compared it to my older Sony 12HT. The hs51 is much better especially watching the football game in HD last night. It was projecting on my "light grey" wall set up and the better contrast really showed a difference. Even though the HS51 has lower resolution. it seemed sharper and clearer. I was using the HDMI output out of the SA 8300 unit for the HS51 and then switch back to the Component output to the 12HT. For some reason I thought I read the component and the HDMI outputs would work at the same time but it doesnt, you have to unplug the HDMI.

Now what type of a screen do I need? I like watching in total darkness and I am projecting 13 ft away 110 screen 16x9. Is the carada screen "Bright White" going to make that much of a difference or do I need to drop the "BIG BUCKS" and go with the "silver screen". And is the Carada Bright white screen that much better than just going with a new paint job? Such as the eggshell bright white paint by Behr? I know I need to experiment BUT I am swamped at work so I need some good feedback to get a head start as much as I can.

Pip

09-14-05, 08:22 PM

I have no experience with the Carada, but for very little money, you can try the High Power. If the 110 measurement is diagonal, it will be plenty bright enough.

Give the sales guys at AVS a call, and ask their opinion. They won't steer you wrong.

Pip

HTRICK

09-15-05, 11:23 AM

SFNSXguy

09-15-05, 12:49 PM

I am planning to buy an HS51 in a few weeks (when my HT is painted), and need to frame in any blocking needed between the ceiling joists(floor joists for floor above) but can't find a diagrammatic layout of the mounting points.

Can you help, and is there a bettter deal out there for the mounting other than sony's mount (or is that the way to go).

Thanks
Rick

I think you'll find that the Chief mount is the most versatile (in case you ever buy a new projector). Center the mounting post in the ceiling then use the Chief mount for the Sony (RPA 102) then use Chief's "lateral shift bracket" (LSB-100) to center the lens on the ceiling post -- that way when your next projector has a center-located lens, or a right-side-located lens you won't have to move the ceiling-mounted post.

OCTJMO... ICBW

Harry

hessel holland

09-15-05, 12:49 PM

Howdy folks...I got one of these TV pole mounts for my HS51 and it works great for me. Very versatile. Use on up to 8' ceiling from floor or remove a section to mount from a table or platform to ceiling. Once assembled, it's easy to move if you don't like where you originally set it up and the mounting shelf is easily adjustable up and down and swings around 180. Has a strap to secure projector. Holds 50 lb.
Got mine from buy.com Normally 87.99 + shipping. Got a $30.00 discount + free shipping for signing up for a credit card thru them.

mimason

09-15-05, 04:20 PM

ditto the Chief 102 if one and a half isn't too much.

Epicurus

09-15-05, 10:24 PM

SFNSXguy

09-17-05, 12:34 PM

Is there any benefit in using the Chief RPA-102 dedicated mount over the Chief Universal mount (RPA-U). The universal mount looks appealing because buying a new SLB bracket (when upgrading projectors) is almost the same price as the entire mount. Any input here?

Gee, you may be right.... it never occured to me that Chief wouldn't sell the SLB plate by itself, but after cruising through their site that seems to be the case. I love the RPA-102 with the "shift" bracket -- is the "U" version of the RPA as compact?

Harry

GlennRW

09-18-05, 08:33 AM

I have been reading most of this very long thread but im still left with some Q's.
i have been sitting on the fence for a PJ for over 2 years but something always came up sadley. now , this year IW I WIL GET ME 1 :D.
I been eyeballing the HS50/51 and set my mind on it but after reading the thread im having some concernes. like:

the DVI/HDMI connection is it or is not good to use ?

is VGA the better connection for this PJ and if so how does it compare to similar priced PJ's where the DVI/HDMI does work properly?

p.s im planning on connecting a DVD Player a MCE system , Xbox 360 and who knows maybe a PS3 too.

jlcool007

09-18-05, 12:50 PM

Yes! It happened maybe 5 times during the first day of use. It does not happen anymore.

does taping the controls for the lens shift help?

kroberts1972

09-18-05, 01:26 PM

Velodyne,
The following are only my opinions, as there is no objective way to measure my impression, but I hope you find them useful.

the DVI/HDMI connection is it or is not good to use ?
I have used it with a Toshiba HD850, It had a good picture, but I had problems with the player not playing some of my discs so I returned it. Now I use an "old" 1.8 ghz computer to play dvds through both HDMI and VGA (dual head card) and I love it (plus it is basically free for me). I prefer the HDMI on my setup because I like the color better. I am able to use the ATI control panel to remove the HDMI overscan, and with movies it looks great. Desktop text over HDMI is not as clear as VGA due to the scaling, but still looks fine. There are other people on the forum who prefer VGA, so this is obviously a final decision you can only make yourself.

is VGA the better connection for this PJ and if so how does it compare to similar priced PJ's where the DVI/HDMI does work properly?
I have not had a chance to compare different connections on other pjs so I can't give you my opinion of this.
I would say the HDMI on my PJ works properly (or as designed) it is just designed to provide overscan and not do a 1:1 pixel mapping. My previous answer gives my impression on this.

p.s im planning on connecting a DVD Player a MCE system , Xbox 360 and who knows maybe a PS3 too.
You will need something to switch all of that stuff no matter what pj you get, so you will want to be thinking about that. Many current pjs only provide one of each type of input. I have a Yamaha reciever that I switch component for my Xbox and HD DVR. My computer is hooked up through the VGA and HDMI. If I get other things to hook up, I will have to find another way to switch, like the external 4 device component/SPDIF switch that I have.

Sorry I can't give more definitive answers, but from all of the discussion on this thread, noone can give you definitive answers, it can only be based on your experience. I would recommend buying from a dealer with a 30 day no quesions return policy.

pjp

09-18-05, 07:44 PM

I plan to buy a Sony HS51 with a Day-Lite 106" screen to go in a room with 15 "wall-to-wall" depth. I will likely buy them this week, so I have couple quick questions:

1) There seem to be many, many screen surfaces available -- how do I pick the correct one for the Sony? The shop recommended a specific one, but I'm not 100% confident that he is an expert.

2) Is the HS51 still the best value for a projector around $3k street price?

3) Are there lower priced screens available that are equally effective? The dealer is quoting $1300 for a 106" fixed frame Day-Lite that has the upgraded (wider) frame.

mimason

09-18-05, 08:29 PM

pjp

09-18-05, 09:00 PM

1. Depends on light control.
2. Probably for the next 2 months but should cost more than a ton or a ton and a half now.
3. Yes, you are being scalped. Call the AVS team for a recommendation/price. SB almost half of that.

Thanks very much for the info, I just sent AVS team a message asking for a recommendation and price. The light in the room will be dark for movies, but the room will often be used with some light for casual viewing.

dartinbout

09-25-05, 06:58 PM

I just hooked up my Marantz SR8500 today and wanted to check out the DVI switching. I'm using a 35" Lindy cable to my HS51 using a DVI to HDMI adapter. I'm switching a Motie DCT6412 and a Bravo D1 DVD player. I'm termporarily using Dell DVI moitor cables. When I first hooked it up, I got a video signal into my HDMI input, then after playing with a variety of other setup choices, I get no more video I reset the SR8500 and the HS51. I'm thinking this might be a cable problem or a HDCP issue. Anybody have any ideas?

dartinbout

MrJones

09-26-05, 10:13 AM

Hi all, I was wondering if I might be the only one who has problems with VB, at least I couldn't find anything through searching. Haven't tried changing power/video cables yet (running VGA from HTPC) but if anyone happens to a tweak in the Factory Menu I'd like to know about it.

I should say also that the VB is obvious in scenes with lots of whites, like Caradhras in FOTR, or some of the lower levels of the "Gamma" control in the Factory Menu.

edit: On second thought I'm guessing that it's FPN I'm seeing and not VB. Is there no one else experiencing something similar?

_XipHiaS_

09-27-05, 06:08 AM

I have a question about the air filter and changing it.

The manual say's to replace the filter every 1000 hours.
But because the environment where the PJ is used is not very dust free, i think it's wise to swap the filter around every 500 hours, to keep it clean and cool.

Now my question is, do's the projector only count how long the filter is used, or do's it have an airflow meter inside?

Am i still going to be disturbed about replacing the filter as the counter reaches 1000 hours, or not? (yes, at 1000 it’s going to be my swap nr two). Or is it reseted the moment I replace the filter, so I never see that message?

But if, do's the 'replace' message disappear, or am i forced to power cycle the projector, or even remove the filter house to reset this message?

In short, how do's the PJ keep's track of this all?

friar

09-27-05, 04:17 PM

braidkid

09-27-05, 04:42 PM

Look in your manual. When the unit is in standby you hit something like "menu" "left" right" "enter" all within 5 seconds and that will reset the lamp timer. I can't remember if that's the exact code but check in your manual under replacing the lamp.

marc_sussman

09-27-05, 05:22 PM

pulpdog

09-28-05, 08:46 AM

Ralph Potts

09-28-05, 02:52 PM

I have a similar question about the lamp timer. My lamp went out with less than 600 hours. I have replaced the lamp, but even though I completely disconnected it from any power source (unplugged, took projector down from ceiling mount, etc), the lamp timer never reset. It now shows 740 hours, but the new lamp has only 150 or so hours on it. Is there something in the manual that allows you to reset the lamp timer, or is it just like an odometer ... it keeps going, and going, and going?

Friar

Greetings,

The manual provides the lamp timer reset instructions on page 50. The instructions are as follows:

Press RESET, LEFT ARROW,RIGHT ARROW, ENTER on the remote control. Ensure the projector is set to standby mode and not ON during this. This will reset the lamp timer.

Regards,

bball2315

09-28-05, 05:52 PM

If price weren't an option even though all these are fairly close in price range, whats the best pick: Runco CL-410 which is a quality dlp projector, the Sony VPL-HS51, or the Sanyo Z4?? I have a 150" diag screen

jschefdog

09-28-05, 07:05 PM

I will be installing an HS 51 in the near future as my HT is completed. I am aware of the ethernet port on the rear of the unit. Has anyone hooked this up? What will I use it for? Will it function with a wireless connection or do I need to run wire?
The Ethernet port is on the front under a cover. The rear has a USB port. The USB port is used with the included software to create custom gamma settings. I don't think anyone ever found another use for it.

The Ethernet port can be connected to a computer and you can open a web page to change the same settings as are available from the remote menus. Just enter the IP address into your browser.

It is supposedly possible to control the HS-51 over this port with custom programming codes similar to use of RS-232 ports on older PJs, but I have never seen anything about anyone actually doing it.

If you do try the Ethernet port, you must unplug the unit then plug it back in after you connect the cable. The only time the unit broadcasts to connect to your network is when it is first plugged in. Power down/up won't do it. I have never tried wireless, but it should work with an Ethernet Bridge.

Douzi

09-30-05, 03:20 PM

I have a problem with my comcast HD box (motorola DCT 6200). I am using DVI-HDMI cable hooking cable box to sony projector. Sometime, like 5 minutes into the program viewing, image start to turn bad, like snow, no image at all. I heard there was the problem for motorola DCT 6200 box for DVI output. Any fix or workaround?

gireesh

09-30-05, 03:41 PM

I sent my projector for upgrade and they scratched my case on the top! I am pissed!!

Did anyone have similar experiences... what did you do to resolve it?

The 866-357-6230 number is always busy... I have been trying to get a hold of them for the past two days!

friar

09-30-05, 04:32 PM

I am strongly considering buying an HS 51 or HS 60 next month. Do I also need to buy a scaler like an ISCAN PRO VP30) in order to get a good picture from Direct TV when watching non- HD pictures & when watching DVD's?

I don't use any type of scaler and I feel that I get a very good picture using DVD. I am presuming that you will be hooking up your dvd with either component or HDMI, correct? However, a non-HD picture from D* will be on a scale from pretty tolerable, to not so good ... depending on the channel. Maybe it has to do with how much data per second D* allocates to each channel ... I'm only guessing. A non-HD channel from D* on my 50" rear projector tv looks great, while on a 110" front projection screen, you can really see the limitations of non-HD television.

I dont' know if buying a scaler will do much for you on these non-HD sources, but I don't have any experience with them. Perhaps someone else can comment if they have seen any real gains with an external scaler on non-HD television for this (or any) projector.

Friar

djos

09-30-05, 06:46 PM

Velodyne,
I am able to use the ATI control panel to remove the HDMI overscan, and with movies it looks great. Desktop text over HDMI is not as clear as VGA due to the scaling, but still looks fine. There are other people on the forum who prefer VGA, so this is obviously a final decision you can only make yourself.

Mate, which option in the catalyst control panel do you use?

I too prefer the colour via HDMI but the overscan is driving me mad, I much prefer the 1:1 pixel mapping from VGA. :(

flamaest

10-01-05, 12:05 PM

craig john

10-02-05, 10:32 AM

I have had my HS-51 since mid-July and it now has about 400 hours on it. Over the last few weeks, I have noticed that it has begun to look dimmer. Last night, my wife pointed out to me how much dimmer the picture is. I know the bulb loses some brightness as it ages, but this is more than I think should be reasonable.

Does Sony warrantee the bulbs for any length of time or number of hours?

Craig

jeffropaige

10-02-05, 11:55 AM

flame the 60 is a 720p native projector not a 1080p. it might accept a 1080p input and then down rez it to the 60's 720p panel but it will not do "native" 1080p. -- jeff

djos

10-02-05, 05:51 PM

I just checked the manual for my HS50(51) and it clearly states that it supports 1080p@24fps via HDMI.

Does Sony warrantee the bulbs for any length of time or number of hours?

Craig

Yes, I think it is 500 Hours, mine stabilised around the 200 hour mark and then the brightness stabilised at a lower level again around the 1200 hour mark.

BMELVIN

10-02-05, 06:20 PM

Ralph Potts

10-02-05, 07:29 PM

I just checked the manual for my HS50(51) and it clearly states that it supports 1080p@24fps via HDMI.

Yes, I think it is 500 Hours, mine stabilised around the 200 hour mark and then the brightness stabilised at a lower level again around the 1200 hour mark.

Greetings,

Actually the warranty on the Sony's lamp is 90 days. I have had mine since April and have just under 600 hours on my lamp. No brightness problems noted. If you calibrated the projector using a setup disc like Avia or DVE try putting up a brightness test pattern and see what it looks like.

Regards,

Ralph Potts

10-02-05, 07:32 PM

I just purchased the HS51 and just tried to hook up the SC8300 cable box and the panny s97 dvd player via the hdmi cable and I cant get a picture? I just rec'd a new HDMI switcher BUT before I had it connected with same devices connected thru dvi via my outlaw dvi swither with a dvd to hdmi adapter using a 25 long HDMI cable and it works perfect. I dont understand why it wont give me a picture at all connecting straight up with the DVD or cable box directly using HDMI >> ANY suggestions what I am doing wrong ? Does the Sony need to be reset or something?

Greetings,

BMelvin, which HDMI switcher are you using? I have a similar setup and am using a Gegen 2x1 HDMI switcher between a Denon 3910 DVD player and the Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR, no problems. The Gefen is HDCP compliant. The HDMI needs to be HDCP compliant or the Sony will not recognize it.

Regards,

kroberts1972

10-02-05, 10:34 PM

djos,
In Catalyst make sure you view is set to advanced, then go to HDTV support under the Digital Panel Properties node in the tree view. On this page it explains what to do. First you have to make sure you have 720p enabled, then set your resolution to 720p. After this, go to the HDTV support pick and click the Add button. You will then be presented with an interface that will let you resize your display. After this you will have a custom resolution that you can pick under your resolutions.

If any of this is vague or doesn't make sense just let me know. They make it a real pain to do this.

djos

10-02-05, 10:39 PM

BMELVIN

10-03-05, 02:14 PM

I didnt even try the GEFEN switcher because they sent me the 4x1 hdmi to DVI switcher instead of the 4x1 HDMI switcher. I had the Panny s97 dvd and the cable box hooked up using the 2x1 dvi switcher in the my Outlaw 990 preamp via DVI adapters. (All cables are HDMI) BUT Before I opened the GEFEN box I thought I would just see how the picture looked hooking it up straight up to the Panny DVD player using the HDMI cables. This is when I realized I couldnt get a picture using the HDMI inputs. I then tried connecting it to the 8300 cabe box and had the same problem with no picture. Just BLUE screen, it doesnt even recognize it has a signal? I tried shutting down the power on all of the units and rebooting and it still didnt work. I then hooked up the HDMI cables with the DVI adapters and connected them thru the DVI switcher and it works.???

I need the 4x1 HDMI switcher because I just got the new Sony DVD changer and want to connect it also using the HDMI connections. Then the new xBox down the road. It sounds like there is something wrong with the HDMI input on the SONY. What else can I do to find out where the problem is?

I was going to use the wrong switcher they sent me 4HDMI x1DVI but the DVI output is on the front of the switcher and the HDMI inputs are on the back?? Why would GEFEN design it like that?

Ralph Potts

10-03-05, 03:15 PM

Greetings,

BMelvin, you are saying that when you had things connected using the Outlaw/DVI/HDMI adaptors that everything worked going into the Sony's HDMI input? Now when you run directly into the Sony HDMI to HDMI that you can't get a picture?

Sorry, I am just having a hard time deciphering the proper turn of events.

Regards,

BMELVIN

10-03-05, 06:04 PM

Thats right! I have a 30 ft HDMI cable running from the projector to the back of the Outlaw DVI output using the DVI adapter. Then I am using 2 more HDMI 6ft cables using DVI adapters going into DVI 1 and DVI 2 of the outlaws that are connected to my panny 97 and 8300 using the HDMI outputs . That set up works fine. BUT now I take the 30ft HDMI cable pull it out of the DVI switcher, pull off the DVI adapters and then connect it right up to the HDMI out put of the cable box or the DVD player and I get no picture, BLUE screen which indicateds no signal detected?

I was hoping that I was doing something wrong BUT I have come to the conclusion that it is ethier something wrong with the 30 ft HDMI cable or the HDMI input of the projector. It just doesnt make any sense that the projector would pick up the signal using the DVI adapters thru the DVI switcher BUT not be able to read the signal with the same HDMI cable connected with just HDMI connections?

Ralph Potts

10-03-05, 06:18 PM

Greetings,

BMelvin, try taking one of the 6 foot DVI cables and connecting it from the DVD player to the projector. I realize that this will mean moving the player closer to the projector but this will just be an experiment.

If you get a picture from the player then you know the problem is cable/cable length related. Report back and this can then be trouble shot from there.

Regards,

BMELVIN

10-03-05, 06:38 PM

I was trying to avoid that. I was hoping I was doing something wrong, BUT I knew I wasnt. OK I will keep people posted as the outcome. I am hoping it is the cable issue and not my brand new HS51 projector? :rolleyes:

jschefdog

10-03-05, 06:44 PM

I just purchased the HS51 and just tried to hook up the SC8300 cable box and the panny s97 dvd player via the hdmi cable and I cant get a picture? I just rec'd a new HDMI switcher BUT before I had it connected with same devices connected thru dvi via my outlaw dvi swither with a dvd to hdmi adapter using a 25 long HDMI cable and it works perfect. I dont understand why it wont give me a picture at all connecting straight up with the DVD or cable box directly using HDMI >> ANY suggestions what I am doing wrong ? Does the Sony need to be reset or something?
I have the same DVD player connected with a 25 foot HDMI cable. I don't think there is any trick to it, mine just works. I've tried other input devices as well and different resolutions and it always just worked. It must be a bad cable or your HS-51 has a defect.

darkwire

10-03-05, 07:29 PM

I've never had a cable 'go-bad' until I used hdmi, it was a 25ft, that was run through a raceway, and then one day, it just stopped passing signal (dvi out -> hdmi adapter -> hdmi). I tried different sources, and then just assumed I someone broke my HDMI port on the sony.

But I decided to just order another cable just in case, and suddenly everything just worked again. Either the cable I had before sucked (I'm sure it did), or HDMI cables are just extremely delicate.

BMELVIN

10-04-05, 10:55 AM

Ralph Potts

10-04-05, 01:03 PM

I pulled out the DVD player from the entertainment center and set it up under the projector and then connected the 6ft HDMI directly to the HS51 HDMI input and it works fine, so it is the 30 ft HDMI cable that is causing the problem? I just dont understand why it can read the signal when going thru the DVi adapter BUT wont recognize any signal with it passing straight thru as a HDMI signal? OH well this cable is going back and another is on ordr.

Greetings,

BMelvin, glad to hear that the cable was definitely the problem. The next question is WHICH cable are you going to order? With a 30 foot length you will want to ensure that you get a quality HDMI cable.

Regards,

jschefdog

10-04-05, 04:42 PM

I just dont understand why it can read the signal when going thru the DVi adapter BUT wont recognize any signal with it passing straight thru as a HDMI signal? OH well this cable is going back and another is on ordr.
Maybe your DVI source was putting out a stronger signal. With digital it is sometimes all or nothing. Either the signal is strong enough and you get a good image, or it is marginal and the PJ doesn't recognize it so you get no picture.

The 25 foot cable I am using is the Rev2 from RAM Electronics (forum sponsor). I've never had trouble with it and I manually switch it between my DVD player and D-VHS deck occasionally. Build quality seems good and it was reasonably priced compared to Monster and other boutique cables.

Ralph Potts

10-04-05, 04:49 PM

Greetings,

I am also using a RAM electronics Rev 2 HDMI cable ( 23 feet ) with no problems. When I had my Sony HS10 I used a 10 meter Lindy cable which worked flawlessly as well.

Regards,

friar

10-04-05, 04:57 PM

Maybe your DVI source was putting out a stronger signal. With digital it is sometimes all or nothing. Either the signal is strong enough and you get a good image, or it is marginal and the PJ doesn't recognize it so you get no picture.

The 25 foot cable I am using is the Rev2 from RAM Electronics (forum sponsor). I've never had trouble with it and I manually switch it between my DVD player and D-VHS deck occasionally. Build quality seems good and it was reasonably priced compared to Monster and other boutique cables.

Isn't HDMI capable of 12 bit, while DVI is limited to 8 or 10 bits? Is it possible that when you put the HDMI-DVD adapter on, it limits the amount of information trying to pass through this long cable? However, when you tried to hook it up direct HDMI-HDMI over this long length of cable, the attempt to send a 12 bit stream of information was just too much and it couldn't sync up? I'm just taking a stab at this one.

Friar

monkmanusa

10-05-05, 09:51 AM

Okay - I have been going thru the manuals trying to understand them (both the Receiver (Denon AVR4806) and the projector HS51) and can't seem to find a satisfactory answer. The past several hours have been spent pondering thru the pages........

This is the setup:

I have the Denon AVR 4806 connected to the Sony VPL-HS51 via HDMI.
I have a Sony DVD and a Scientific Atlanta HD DVR connected into the 4806 via Component.

The settings on the 4806
HDMI/DVI in Assign - all NONE
Component in Assign - DVD - 1-RCA, VDP - 2-RCA (for the DVD and DVR appropriately)
Video convert Mode - Off, Component, AUTO) (I've tried them all - but the result appears to be the same - see below) - as far as I can tell from the manual this only deals with converting one analog signal to another analog signal? (e.g. Component to Composite etc)
HDMI Out - HDMI Convert - On
HDMI Out - Color Space - YCbCr

On the Sony PJ the HDMI is the ONLY input on it, and I have set that so that it has a FIXED signal input of HDMI.

The two are connected by a 8M bettercables HDMI/HDMI cable.

Thats basically it.

Now the problem - and I ain't sure whether this is the 4806 doing stuff or the PJ is out of whack (or even the cable?).

Basically I can be watching successfully and after a "variable" amount of time - the PJ will seem to lose its "connection" to the input signal - it will start to "click" as though it is trying to find the right signal. Granted - this tends to happen when I am using the DVR functions to watch something recorded. That is, I might be on the "menu" of recorded items, select something to watch and begin playing, then move back to the menu and then it will start to happen. The PJ will start to "click" the same as it does when initially acquiring a signal, I will occasionally get a "flicker" of the actual image that should be being displayed, or I will get an occasional "snow field". This will keep happening until I turn everything off - and start again.

Now the first thing I have to do is try and work out "where" the issue is.

This is my plan.
1. Remove the 4806 from the "video" equation by connecting the DVR directly to the projector thru HDMI (which I can do)
2. If I still get the problem - then it ain't the 4806.
3. If I still get the problem - try with a different HDMI cable (I have another one fortunately - though only 1M so will need to move my equipment)
4. If I still get the problem it ain't the cables.
5. I have no other "digital" input capabilities yet - will have to wait for the oppo to arrive so I can connect thru the DVI output of that beasty.
6. If I still get the same problem - then I know it is the projector
7. If I do not get the same problem - then I know it must be the DVR.

Does the above seem logical - am I missing anything? Has any one of you had this type of issue and can save me having to do everything mentioned above? Or any thoughts on other things to do/try to work this out? I cannot bear the thought that I just pluncked down $9k for something that might be "temperamental".........

Any assistance will be appreciated.........

mimason

10-05-05, 10:36 AM

mimason

10-05-05, 03:58 PM

I had another thought. Make sure you are not sending a 480i signal to the pj via HDMI from the 4806. Trying sending 720P from your cable box and 480p from the dvd player via component or 720P via HDMI.

jschefdog

10-05-05, 06:37 PM

I have the Denon AVR 4806 connected to the Sony VPL-HS51 via HDMI.
I have a Sony DVD and a Scientific Atlanta HD DVR connected into the 4806 via Component.
So you are feeding component to the Denon and it is converting to HDMI. Is this correct?

I'm not familar with the AVR 4806, but I think receivers which convert all the video inputs to HDMI are fairly new. New "bleeding edge" digital technology is often a bit flakey. I've bought a few components where the new digital connections did not work right and required a firmware upgrade to fix them. Your only option may be to contact Denon to see if they have a fix.

In another thread you mentioned that your DVD image was fuzzy, but I didn't catch that the HDMI connection was to a receiver that was convering from a component input. The A/D conversion going on in the Denon may be the reason, although given it's price I would expect it to do a good job. It might be worhwhile to buy an inexpensive DVD player with HDMI out and connect it to the Denon or directly to the HS-51 instead. Sony and Panasonic both have pretty good ones selling for under $300.

Douzi

10-10-05, 03:30 AM

My lamp only lasted 339 hours. It went very dim since a week ago, and today it dead on me. I bought a new one and it works great again.

My question right now is that what is causing this short lived bulb. I ceiling mounted the projector, the only problem I can think of is heat. because I mounted in the closet, I cut a hole on the wall to project out. I did take the closet door down, but the heat might accumulated in the top of the closet. Is that a problem? If yes, I need to figure something out to get the heat out. Any feedback will be appreciated.

Thanks.

djos

10-10-05, 04:12 AM

Ralph Potts

10-10-05, 10:12 AM

Greetings,

Even though the projector vents to the front, mounting it in a closet probably does not allow the air around the unit to circulate. How close is the front of the unit to the wall where the hole is? How large is the closet ?

My guess would be that unless you add some type of ventilation system in the area where the unit is mounted you are going to have another occurence of short lamp life.

Regards,

Douzi

10-10-05, 02:30 PM

Thanks. I think my next project will be how to vent the projector. :-) I will contact Sony to see if they cover this short lived bulb.

monkmanusa

10-11-05, 04:56 PM

Okay here goes on an Update.

Well after much ado - I decided to replace the cable as after my first set of issues after I was switching out the cable and putting it into other connections - I started getting no signal (or actually a part signal as the sony was just "clicking away" and it seemed to have got "something"....but not quite sure what.

I also decided to purchase the Oppo DVD player to get a "premo" video signal (that little player is awesome BTW)

Anyhow contacted bettercables (whom I purchased the cable from) and asked if I could get a replacement - not a problem - they sent me one straight away and I returned my orginal (BTW bettercables customer service when I called them about this issue was exemplary and I woudl thoroughly recommend them).

Got the new cable - and hey presto - everything (except one thing) now is cool.

The Sony HS51 is connected via HDMI/HDMI to the Denon AVR4806.
The Oppo is connected from its DVI output to the DVI Input of the 4806
The 8300HD is connected via Component to the 4806 (and its set to output a fixed 1080i)

Everything works fine in the above scenario.
Now - if I change the output on the SA8300HD to utilize its HDMI link and output into one of the HDMI input ports on the 4806....then I get a message sent by the 8300HD stating that the "equipment to which it is attached is not HDCP complient" and that I must used Component. If I connect the 8300HD directly to the Sony - then no probs and I can watch my HD stuff from the 8300.

So the question is this,
Is this a HDCP problem with the 4806, or a problem with the 8300 or a problem with the Sony in that when connecting thru the 4806 does not manage to "talk" back to the 8300 such that the 8300 will send the right signal. This again points me to the 4806 as mybe it is not allowing the "passthru" communication of the projector back to the 8300.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be welcomed.

Ralph Potts

10-11-05, 07:10 PM

Greetings,

My guess is that the problem is related to the 4806. I have the 8300HD, and a Denon DVD-3910 DVD player. Both are connected to my Sony HS51 via HDMI run through a Gefen HDMI switcher. The Gefen is HDCP compliant and when connected to the 8300Hd and SET to the HDMI input that the 8300HD is connected to there is no problem. The 8300HD sees the Gefen. If I switch the Gefen to the HDMI input that the DVD player is connected to and turn on the 8300HD I see the message you are ferring to on my monitor. The monitor I am referring to a a 14" CRT I use for quick reference when cueing up a recording on the 8300HD. As soon as I switch the Gefen over to the proper input the 8300HD sees the Gefen and sends the picture through.

I think the problem is related to the HDCP handshake between the 4806's HDMI inputs and the HDMI outputs on your source units. This problem is not only related to Denon receivers. Other pre/pro's and receivers from other manufacturers have experienced intermittent problems of a similar nature.

I will be holding off on a pre/pro with HDMI switching until these issues have been addressed/solved.

Regards,

djos

10-11-05, 07:20 PM

Sounds (no pun intended) to me like the 4806's you guys have are in need of FW updates as anything with HDMI inputs and or switching must be HDCP compliant as it is part of the HDMI standard.

DaveHe

10-13-05, 04:00 PM

jschefdog

10-14-05, 03:47 PM

Every time I turn it on, I have to re-focus it...
I've been following this thread from the beginning but don't remember anyone else reporting this problem. There were some comments about the lens shift drifting and requiring frequent adjustment. I've had my HS-51 since Nov 2004 so probably have about that many hours (haven't checked lately) and haven't seen this. You might try taping the lens so it won't turn to see if it helps. If you are the tinkering type and your warranty has expired you might open it up to see if something is loose.

gireesh

10-14-05, 06:11 PM

Those of you using HDMI, have you been able to get 1:1 pixel mapping? My HDMI image looks crappy compared to the VGA image... at 720p output from an HTPC.

djos

10-14-05, 06:15 PM

Those of you using HDMI, have you been able to get 1:1 pixel mapping? My HDMI image looks crappy compared to the VGA image... at 720p output from an HTPC.

No and it definately does not look as sharp as VGA but on the flip side, the colour is better imo.

kroberts1972

10-14-05, 06:49 PM

hawkeye3.1

10-14-05, 10:22 PM

Bytehoven

10-14-05, 11:26 PM

Time is running out for those of us that have the original production model and have not sent it in to Sony for the update.

This has been widely recommended by posters with greater expertise than me, but some have had bad experiences with the process also.

Is this a no-brainer...or not? And has anybody sent there's in recently?

Please help me with this conundrum.

IMHO, it's a no brainer. If you need to mix formats into the HS-51, the update makes for a uniform presentation of 480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i.

If you can route all of your sources thru a HTPC or out board scaler/processor, then one could argue the non-updated hs-51 provided 1:1 mapping on the 720p HDMI input, even though it was masked to a smaller projected screen than the other formats.

The analog RGB-VGA performance of the INPUT A connection does not change with the update, so any hard core pixel mapping tinfoil hat, could use that connection on both the updated and non-updated projector.

If you want to use HDMI, get the update.

I have had both projectors, and I would send the HS-51 in for the update before it expires. You could also have any RGB panel alignment errors addressed at the same time.

How will the value of resale be effected down the road? I don't know. It depends on who the buyer might be.

Your average Joe A/V buyer is going to notice the formatting problem of the non-updated projector.

Your advanced Joe A/V buyer is probably going to be buying something newer because he has such an overwhelming attraction for the techincal fine points, which are constently improving with each new product release.

I say get the update.

best wishes
...

djos

10-14-05, 11:34 PM

gireesh

10-15-05, 03:23 PM

Gireesh,
I have been using HDMI with my htpc. It is not 1:1, and the merits of VGA 1:1 vs HDMI have been hotly debated in this thread. VGA is the only 1:1 input. HDMI also has overscan, which I am able to correct for with my ATI video card. Text is not as clear with HDMI, but I don't notice a difference in clarity with movies. I get better color with HDMI so I go with that. YMMV, so just pick the one you like best.

I have an ATI card with latest drivers, how did you correct the overscan? I could not make it work, if it has already been discussed, can please you point me to the approximate date, this thread is unmanageable in my opinion.

Thanks for you help

Gireesh

PS. My experience with Sony center in Laredo was quite disappointing, they scratched the top cover of my projector, and claimed that I sent a scratched projector. After several phone calls, they sent me a shipping label, and I just got back the projector with a new cover. I am still missing my lens cap, I have to call them Monday, and complain about that again. It just takes too much time, sometimes I wish I hadn't started this ordeal. I think my pixel alignment is slightly better now, hard to tell, didn't have much of a misalignment to begin with.

kroberts1972

10-15-05, 04:04 PM

Gireesh,
I went over catalyst in post4833 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6289399&&#post6289399)

Monty Williams

10-18-05, 04:09 PM

I've had my HS51 since mid-August and have been very pleased with it so far. I'm projecting onto a 110" Grayhawk RS screen in a light controlled room and have about 350 hours on the projector/bulb. Other than 2-3 instances when I've turned it and the rest of my equipement on and received a "Frequency out of Range!" error message it has operated flawlessly. When this has occured I've simply had to turn my HDMI switching A/V receiver off and back on and it works again.

I am using a Pioneer Elite 59AVi DVD player sending out 1080i and a Comcast/Motorola 6200 HD cable box sending 1080i for 16:9 material and 480p for 4:3 set via it's service menu. The 59AVi is connected to a Pioneer Elite 74TXVi(used as a pre/pro in front of 3 Brystons) via HDMI and the Motorola 6200 is connected to the 74TXVi via component. I could not get the DVI>HDMI interface between the 6200 and the 74TXVi to work. The 74TXVi indicates that it is receiving an HDMI signal from the 6200 and the HS51 indicates that it is also receiving an HDMI signal, but the HS51 will not display a picture and does not display an error code of any kind. According to the Pioneer reps I have spoken to, as well as other users of the Motorola 6200 series cable boxes the problem lies with my cable company/cable box. So I am using the 74TXVi's component to HDMI conversion feature and running a single HDMI input to the HS51, so component, S-Video, or Input-A, which is nice and tidy.

Anyway, I was wondering if anyone could clarify what the difference was between the manual lense shift dials on the side of the HS51's case versus using the electronic HV settings in the Signal Input menu. Obviously the manual dials move the entire image window side/side and up/down, while the HV settings seem to move the image itself within the projected window, at least until you get to the far reaches of the HV scale. For instance, assuming I have the lense shift set so that the screen is filled completely with an image, if I'm watching CNN or ESPN with the scroll bars at the bottom of the image, I can use the HV setting to move to actual viewable portion of the image around but the screen is still fully filled with a displayed image until I get to the extremes of the HV settings. In other words, I can set it so the ESPN/CNN scroll bars are right at the bottom of the screen or I can adjust the HV settings so that the scroll bar is about 1/8 or so up towards the middle of the screen, yet the space on the screen is still filled with a projected image (usually projected black or some kind of background). The same is true with stations like FOX or CBS with their logo's in the bottom right corner. I can adjust the HV settings so that you can barely see the logo yet the rest of the screen is still filled with a projected image. This leads me to believe that there is a substantial portion of the panels periphery not being projected based upon how the HV settings are set. Is this right or I'm I misunderstanding how the lense shift and HV setting behave/interact?

Also, if I change my 6200 cable box or 59AVi's output to 720p, the projected image becomes much smaller and located in the bottom left corner, filling about 3/4 of the screen rather than being centered on the screen and filling it completely. I have read every post in this thread and understand about the 720p blanking issue, but my unit is serial number 20038XX and does not have this problem. Is it just a matter of reshifting the image and rezooming for 720p versus the lesnse shift and HV settings for 1080?

jschefdog

10-18-05, 07:28 PM

Anyway, I was wondering if anyone could clarify what the difference was between the manual lense shift dials on the side of the HS51's case versus using the electronic HV settings in the Signal Input menu.
The lens shift adjusts where the edges of the LCD panel are projected onto your screen. It is a mechanical adjustment which moves the lens and should be used to center the image on the screen.

The HV settings electronically move the input image relative to the LCD panels. If you do this with an image that is exactly 1280x720 such as from a PC on Input A, it can be used to center the image on the panel so that you see every pixel. For example, the entire Windows desktop. In this case if you move HV from the perfectly centered setting, you will get a black edge as the image moves off center and the opposite edge will be cropped.

Since the other inputs have 2-5% overscan, you will not see a black edge unless you get pretty far off center. I'm not sure the range will go that far. As you adjust HV you are seeing portions of the image that are cropped by the overscan. To perfectly center the image you need a test pattern with markers such as those on Video Essentials or Avia. However, you might not want it centered. You might want to set it higher so you can read tickers at the bottom.

I'm not sure why you are seeing the problem with 720P. I have used 4 different sources at 720P via HDMI and have never seen anything like this. My HS51 had the blanking problem, but the image was larger than 3/4 size and was centered. I got it upgraded months ago. Before or after I never saw the effect you describe. I guess it is possible that it is a defect.

darkwire

10-18-05, 08:05 PM

Refocusing, I've had this issue more or less since day 1 or shortly after I noticed it. It goes away after warm up.

I can refocus at startup, but it will just have a unfocused picture after it warms up. So now I just focus it after a good 30 min warm up time if I must refocus.

Monty Williams

10-19-05, 09:44 AM

jschefdog, thanks for confirming what I thought was the difference between the lense shift and the HV setting.

I've been watching my HS51 since I've owned it by feeding it 1080i from my Pioneer Elite 59AVi and Comcast/Motorola DCT6200. LAst night I switched both the 59AVi and the DCT6200 to output 720p. I mentioned in my previous post that when I input 720p into the HS51 that the image size was reduced and the image was located in the lower left corver of the screen. I must have messed up the HV settings for 720p when I initially set it up a few months ago because all I had to do was RESET the HV settings and the image was centered. After zooming it to fill the screen and some slight lense shift adjustments all was well. However, I honestly can't tell the difference between 1080i or 720p regardless of the source material (HDTV, SDTV, DVD).

djos

10-19-05, 05:12 PM

jschefdog

10-19-05, 07:45 PM

I must have messed up the HV settings for 720p when I initially set it up a few months ago because all I had to do was RESET the HV settings and the image was centered. After zooming it to fill the screen and some slight lense shift adjustments all was well. However, I honestly can't tell the difference between 1080i or 720p regardless of the source material (HDTV, SDTV, DVD).
If the size of the image is different for 1080i and 720p, your unit must be pre-blanking fix. That was a symptom of the blanking, the image at 720p was smaller (cropped) than the other resolutions (480i, 480p or 1080i) which were all the same size. So you had to change the lens zoom to make 720P fill the screen. After getting the blanking fix, both resolutions are the same size and there is no need to change the lens zoom or shift when switching back and forth.

jschefdog

10-19-05, 07:52 PM

The HS50/51 is a 720p native PJ so stick to 720p then the PJ wont have to do any scaling and your picture, in theory, should be slightly better quality.
True in theory, but since this model overscans 720P input by 2-3% (post blanking fix), it also scales all 720P input to Component or HDMI. The only exception is Input A in Computer mode which can be tweaked for 1x1 pixel mapping. This was the subject of much discussion earlier in this really long thread.

I have also tried both 720P and 1080I and honestly cannot see a difference in normal DVD viewing. But I leave my DVD player on 720P since in theory it should be better because it avoids deinterlacing of 1080i in the PJ.

Monty Williams

10-20-05, 11:46 AM

If the size of the image is different for 1080i and 720p, your unit must be pre-blanking fix. That was a symptom of the blanking, the image at 720p was smaller (cropped) than the other resolutions (480i, 480p or 1080i) which were all the same size. So you had to change the lens zoom to make 720P fill the screen. After getting the blanking fix, both resolutions are the same size and there is no need to change the lens zoom or shift when switching back and forth.

My unit was manufactured this past August and doesn't need the 720P blanking fix, the serial number is 20038XX, well past the serial number range involved with the issue. There is no black border around the 720P image it just needed to be zoomed out to fill the screen. One thing I did notice though is that the HV range for 720P and 1080i are different. For 1080i the default was something like 450 and 50 while for 720P the default was 220 and 50.

Dougie085

10-24-05, 07:31 PM

djos

10-24-05, 07:44 PM

ive been searching through the forums and i cant seem to find what is the Lamp Life on the HS51 i have an Optoma EP719 right now and i want to upgrade because this one doesnt do HD or anything....it would be a huge upgrade lol but im considering the HS51 and the AE700 so just kind of compareing features and i dont see lamp life listed anywhere for the hs51

The HS50/51 is rated for 2000 hours on high lamp mode or 3000 hours on low lamp mode. It also uses a UHP lamp not the cheaper UHM lamp that Panasonic use in the AE700.

BCC1604

10-29-05, 08:22 PM

djos

10-29-05, 08:30 PM

I've got a problem with my HS51. The past few days the picture has been noticably dimmer. Tonight when I turned it on, it's so dark that it's unwatchable. I only have about 500 hours on the unit. I've checked different sources and checked all the picture adjustments. Could the bulb be defective?

I'd say so, call Sony and ask for a replacement, They'll most likely get you to take it into a sony service centre for verification but they should give you a replacement.

ac388

10-29-05, 10:46 PM

I just hope they will use a better lamp in the new HS60.

djos

10-29-05, 11:35 PM

I just hope they will use a better lamp in the new HS60.

They are both UHP lamps - no production system is perfect but the UHP lamps are as good as they get for PJ's in this price range. Panasonic use the UHM lamps and thankfully im glad Sony use the UHP Lamps!

ac388

10-30-05, 03:14 AM

djos

10-30-05, 04:03 AM

In what way is UHP better ? They are more expensive to replace than a UHM, about same life span of 2,000-3,000 hours as UHM. But they provide only 800 lumens for HS60, while UHM gives about 1,000 lumen on the new AE900, if I remember correctly.

It's real simple, UHM globes fade over there entire life time, UHP globes typically stabilse at around the 200 hour mark and are very consistent to about the 1500 hour mark and are much more consistent over their entire lifetime. It's my understading that they also put out a white light that is closer to 6500k than UHM.

Lumens and bulb type are not related, it's all down to what spec the PJ maker chooses to use, both types are equally capable of high lumen output.

Btw, the AE900 (130W UHM) is rated at 1100 ansi lumens and the HS50/51 (135W UHP) is 1200 - I imagine that the HS60 will be the same.

ac388

10-30-05, 07:52 AM

Thanks for your explanation.

michache

10-31-05, 12:41 PM

Hi there,
I have a SONY HS51 projector and have recently purchased a 114" Carada Brilliant white screen 1.4 gain (which should be arriving in a few days....) I also have control over the ambient light in the room.

When I do get my new screen, I would like to try calibrating the projector myself but I was hoping to get some tips from people who have already tuned their HS51's. I have access to DVE disc and I am considering also getting the Avia disc as well.

Can someone with a similar screen size / gain that has already done some calibrating with this projector send me their settings so I can try it out (and hopefully only need to make minor adjustments from there)? Any help would be appreciated. Also not sure how to get "service access" for further adjustments.

Thanks in advance.

SOWK

10-31-05, 02:48 PM

michache

10-31-05, 03:35 PM

For DVD watching I will be using the HDMI input (Oppo DVD player DVI-D with coupler to HDMI). For HDTV, the box I have only has component video out. Ideally, I would like to calibrate for both inputs. These two (component & HDMI) are mainly what I use my projector for (very occasional PS2 over composite and computer use over 15 pin VGA).

mimason

10-31-05, 04:36 PM

Michache,

If you go back several pages you will see posts from Bytehoven and Kris Deering with settings and how to get to the service menu. Try them out. They worked for me.

Bytehoven

10-31-05, 08:39 PM

Hi there,
Any help would be appreciated. Also not sure how to get "service access" for further adjustments. Thanks in advance.

Here are my latest preferred settings. But as Mimason said, there have been numerous alternate settings posted, and you might consider taking some additional notes and trying a few others.

You enter the service mode by pressing ENTER ENTER ^ v ENTER on the remote and then answer YES.

Now under the menu you will see a W/B, this is where you can change the HIGH MID & LOW gain/bias settings, as well as the CUSTOM 1, 2 & 3. I leave the HIGH, MID and LOW set to their factory levels.

AUTO IRIS ON: settings as follows

Contrast = 78
Brightness = 55
Color = 45
Hue = 50
Sharpness = min
Gamma = off
Black = off
Iris = AUTO

Now onto the service menu changes for red, blue & green GAIN & BIAS. The 1st set of numbers were my factory Custom 1 settings. Kris used this same HIGH factory settings as a starting point and I have posted his settings. The (number) represents what you would do with the main menu +/- bias/gain controls if you DID NOT go into the service menu.

.........Factory....Custom 1....Custom2.....Custom 3......Kris's
RG.......128..........140..............135............110... ..........140 (+12)
GG........78............65.................75.............60 ...............78 (0)
BG.......117...........85...............105.............80.. ............117 (-17)
RB.......128..........128..............128............128... ..........123 (-5)
GB.......128..........128..............128............128... ..........128 (0)
BB.......132..........128..............128............128... ..........132 (0)

Next is my setting I use mainly for watching Sports and for the kids when they have friends over to watch animated films with some lights on.

AUTO IRIS OFF: settings as follows

Contrast = 90
Brightness = 50
Color = 50
Hue = 50
Sharpness = min
Gamma = 3
Black = off
Iris = OFF

........Custom 3....
RG.......140
GG........69
BG........87
RB.......123
GB.......128
BB.......128

Good luck and feel free to experiment with other settings.

RJ
...

michache

10-31-05, 08:50 PM

Bytehoven,
This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you very much. I will try it out as soon as I get my new screen.

Mike.

BT1

11-05-05, 12:00 AM

I have enjoyed my HS-51 since Jan. and thanks to many of the members here, I think I have squeezed almost all I can get from the projector.

I am displaying on a 50" X 89" DIY frame with Draper M2500 material bought from an e-bay supplier "Amy Poirier”. I only paid $115 for the material and thought it was wise not to pay too much because not too much was known about the Sony back in Oct. 2004.

At that time, I was warned that the Draper M2500 material sometimes displayed vertical tracks. Not to be confused with the banding problem that some LCD projectors have. I noticed it initially then have been so caught up in the enjoyment of my first FP, that they "faded" from my conciseness. They are back. Now, I can not watch any scenes that are very bright, without being distracted. A great example would be the entire white landscape of "Runaway Train". Maybe it's the RR tracks? ha ha!

I would like to make a second frame and try a different material, possibly from Da-lite. Their HP would seem to have a similar gain (2.5 to 2.8?).

Any other material suggestions to improve performance?

I would like to stay with a brand that offers the material only, but if others can document a huge gain in performance? It was very easy to make and the screen is as tight as it was 12 months ago. I built the screen in November waiting for the Sony to arrive! Just could not wait.

Primarily use a HTPC / WINDVD6 output via VGA computer mode for DVD movies and HDMI from Dish net or Cable for all other HD viewing. Have a NeoDigits HVD208 DVD player for backup to HTPC. Projector sits inside a custom coffee table in front of the viewing location. Fully light controlled 14’W X 23’L X 10’H’ room. Front wall and front portion of side walls dark brown. Carpet from projector to screen dark brown pattern. All other walls and ceiling beige. Black velvet frame 8" top and bottom, with removable 6" wide insert strips to reduce screen opening height to 38" for 2:35 movies. 12" wide black velvet side panels slide to fit 4:3 if required. Lens is 14" from floor X 128" from screen. Screen lower edge is 20" from floor. Sit (view) at 185”.

I also just joined the AVS Forum tonight. $35 well spent. Thought it was time to give some back. I have been following the Sony “Ruby” and the “Latest HiDef DVD News” threads. Fascinating stuff.

Any comments will be appreciated.

Steve

ay221

11-05-05, 11:59 AM

I think with dec 31 coming up shortly I will send in my projector for that 720p blanking issue and maybe they can tweak out the misconvergence. I want to be ready for HD DVD/Blue Ray for next year, and plan to keep this projector for at least 2 to 3 more years for a good and affordable 1080p projector. I also ordered the IMX lens so that should keep me good til then.

djos

11-05-05, 07:04 PM

ay221

11-05-05, 09:50 PM

IMX lens reduces the Screen Door Effect. See link.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=597156

Dougie085

11-05-05, 10:12 PM

Hi im looking to upgrade my projector somtime in the beginning of the year i currently have an Optoma EP719 which isnt really a HT projector. Im looking at either the ae900 or the hs51 im sure either would be an amazing difference in my projector but i can find lots of reviews on these projectors but nothing really compareing them much. Which one really has better contrast and vb sd all that which one is better has anyone seen both of these? also which would you guys recommend is it really worth it to spend the little more for the hs51 or should i stick with the ae900 i'll be projecting roughly a 100" image for info lol the room is complete light controled and nice and dark.

BigScreen

11-07-05, 01:33 PM

I'm on the fence about sending in my HS51 for the masking upgrade and could use some outside opinions to help me decide what to do...

I've had my HS51 since January, and I'm very happy with it. Only rarely do I notice SDE on the 103" wide image, and my enjoyment has only increased with the recent addtion of an HD-TiVo into the system.

Last spring, when the upgrade was announced to fix the masking issue, I filled out the form on Sony's site, but then never sent the projector in. At the time, since I wasn't watching anything in 720p, the problem wasn't at the forefront of my mind.

Then, in September, I got the HD-TiVo and I've been watching quite a bit on it, and the 720p masking issue is definitely there. I dug up the E-Mail I received from Sony and gave them a call to make sure that the work order was still open (it was) and to find out what the turn-around time was right now. I also checked with UPS and FedEx to see how much it would cost to ship the projector ($40-45) and how long it would take to get to Laredo.

I was transferred to Juan, who seems to be popular with the people in this thread, and he said that it would take about 5-7 days for them to upgrade the projector. With the three days there and three days back, that pretty much rules out a movie night for the Thanksgiving festivities on 11/20 with my family, but that's what I get for procrastinating...

What has made me hesitate since March is a couple of issues:

1) time without the projector
2) possibility of damage, convergence issues, and/or bulb life issues as a result of shipping

With the holidays approaching, I can imagine that shipping times will increase, so I have to plan for more than the 11-23 business days that it should take. Some reports here have had problems getting their projectors back in that amount of time, so the thought of being without my projector for that long is a little hard to deal with :)

The other issue is of even more concern to me. Right now, I have no complaints about the performance of my projector. I do have a slight convergence problem with blue that is only noticeable on white on black text displays (~1 pixel up and right) and only when I'm looking for it from about 3 ft away from the screen. Juan said that they might be able to tweak that, but since it hasn't bothered me up to this point, it would just be icing on the cake if they were able to adjust it. I'm more concerned that the process of shipping will knock something out of adjustment and/or cause the bulb to fail prematurely (not an insignificant cost, to be sure).

I'm wondering just how much of a problem the masking issue really is, especially going forward, looking at the introduction of BluRay and/or HD-DVD. The masked area is only visible in 720p mode, so upconverted 480p from my DVD player doesn't show the problem, and if I set the HD-TiVo to 1080i, the problem also goes away. I know that setting it to 720p is the best, since that's the native resolution, but it is a work-around that doesn't seem to cause a major problem. With BRD/HD-DVD being 1080 formats, the projector will be fed a 1080i signal anyway, so the masking issue won't be a factor there, either.

I haven't framed my screen yet, but using some black speaker grille cloth, it was hard to notice the masked area if I manually zoomed the image to fill the screen and overflow the masked area onto the cloth. I'm thinking that I could avoid losing my projector for a period of time and possibly causing problems with it due to shipping, etc. if I'm willing to accept these workarounds.

Is there something I'm missing? Am I going to regret not sending this unit in before the grace period ends (12/31/2005)? My inclination is to leave well enough alone, but I also want to make an intelligent decision, so if I'm missing something, please enlighten me.

Ralph Potts

11-07-05, 02:56 PM

Greetings,

I also have the HS51 however I bought one of the units with the upgraded firmware ( shortly after the started shipping them to dealers ) in early April so mine came without the blanking issue.

I would not worry about the lamp failing prematurely due to it being shipped back and forth. These units are shipped back and forth regularly from Sony to their dealers etc. when I had the Sony HS10 I shipped to Laredo for service. It returned just fine and no lamp problems.

It is your call but I would say to just get the unit upgraded to the current firmware and get the update. This will ensure that your projector is up to date and you won't always wonder how the changes could have improved your image ( if any ).

If you are concerned about turn around time I would recommend overnighting the unit to Laredo. It will cost more but will ensure they receive it timely and it will not spend alot of time being jostled around in trucks. When I dealt with Laredo they overnighted my HS10 back to me. If you request it they may do the same for you. It can't hurt to inquire about it.

Regards,

mimason

11-07-05, 03:07 PM

I am sort if in the same boat except I am only considering sending it in due to a slight pixel alignment issue. I think I might do it but like you said it'll be gone for our company during Thanksgiving.

jschefdog

11-07-05, 03:40 PM

I'm on the fence about sending in my HS51 for the masking upgrade and could use some outside opinions to help me decide what to do...
Back in the early days of the fix, some people did post about their experiences. I documented my experience in this post. Several people did report problems after sending their PJs in for the fix. A common one was lens shift issues similar to what I reported. Others complained about worse panel misalignment or damage to the case. However, others reported no problems at all or even something working better than before they sent it in. So it is sort of a gamble, or at least it was back then.

You might be able to find other posts by searching this thread for "shipping" or "damage" or "loredo".

MoG

11-07-05, 04:52 PM

I sent my HS51 in back in March for the firmware update. It was fixed but the mechanical controls for the vert. and horiz. offset were broken when I got it back, AND there was something loose rattling around inside the PJ.

Sent it a 2nd time, and the loose object was removed/fixed, and the offset controls worked again, BUT the panel was misaligned. I could now see yellow pixels outlining everything.

Sent it in a 3rd time! Got it back last week and it appears to be fixed.

Thx.

MoG

11-07-05, 04:53 PM

Hi,
Forgive, me as I posted this in the 2.35 forum, but I wanted to post here in case any HS51 experts don't frequent that forum:

=====
Hi,

I need help getting a nice rectangular image with my setup!

I have a Sony VPL-HS51 set about 15 feet back from a 10 foot wide (not diagonal) Silverstar. I have a Prismasonic H1200M secured directly in front of the HS51.

Image on screen : Photo 1 (http://www.snagabag.com/tmp/ch_setup1.jpg) - Pass through mode
Image on screen : Photo 2 (http://www.snagabag.com/tmp/ch_setup2.jpg) - Strech mode
Image on screen : Photo 3 (http://www.snagabag.com/tmp/ch_setup3.jpg) - Stretch mode

In the first photo, the lens is set to pass through mode. The sides are straight, and so are the top and bottom. However, the image is "tilted / rotated" up slightly. This is easiest to see by looking at the bottom of the image. The bottom left corner is at the bottom of the screen, but the bottom right corner is a few inches higher.

Can this be fixed electronically, or do I need to readjust my projector mount?

The 2nd and 3rd photos show the image stretched to 2.35. It's a mess! The sides both "lean in," and both slightly curve outward near the bottom. In both Photo 2 and Photo 3 the bottom corners of the image are at the bottom corners of the screen, but you can see the sides of the image do not follow the screen border up.

The top and bottom sides oof the image are both curved. Photo 2 shows the bottom curve, while Photo 1 shows the top curve. For example, in Photo 2, the bottom corners are at the screen edge, but you can see the image curve up in the middle of the bottom side.

Any and all help & advice is appreciated!

I don't mind overscan since it disappears into the black border, but the image is so misaligned currently, that if I set it to cover the screen the overscan actually goes past the border!

Thanks so much!
=====

MoG

11-07-05, 04:56 PM

Hi,
Does anyone know how to reset the HS51 to factory defaults? (including the service mode Gain settings.)
Thanks!

SOWK

11-08-05, 11:13 PM

I've had my HS51 since January, and I'm very happy with it. Only rarely do I notice SDE on the 103" wide image, and my enjoyment has only increased with the recent addtion of an HD-TiVo into the system.

Hey Bigscreen. Is the Sony HS-51 a longtime use item? Or are you going to replace it soon? What are you using for your source devices, and how are they connected?

Please give as much info as possible.

I live in Wauwatosa, WI - I have the Sony HS-51 Connected to it I have a

OTA HD TUNER
DVD PLAYER
HTPC

Soon

Xbox 360

I have talked about this along time ago to get rid of the 720P masking problems

Here is my setup - Everything 720P ouput

Everything DVI

DVI 5X1 video switcher

DVI cord to my DVI to VGA converter.

VGA to the Projector

1:1 mapping, no masking, perfect picture!

I would like to see your setup, if possible. Let me know if that is a possibility.

Ralph Potts

11-09-05, 09:46 AM

Hey Bigscreen. Is the Sony HS-51 a longtime use item? Or are you going to replace it soon? What are you using for your source devices, and how are they connected?

Please give as much info as possible.

I live in Wauwatosa, WI - I have the Sony HS-51 Connected to it I have a

OTA HD TUNER
DVD PLAYER
HTPC

Soon

Xbox 360

I have talked about this along time ago to get rid of the 720P masking problems

Here is my setup - Everything 720P ouput

Everything DVI

DVI 5X1 video switcher

DVI cord to my DVI to VGA converter.

VGA to the Projector

1:1 mapping, no masking, perfect picture!

I would like to see your setup, if possible. Let me know if that is a possibility.

Greetings,

Sowk, why not just send him a PM? This post has nothing to do with the rest of us and just wastes space here in the thread.

It is not my intention to be inflammatory however this thread is already long and for those trying to read through it posts like this are unnecessary.

Regards,

SOWK

11-09-05, 10:25 AM

Greetings,

Sowk, why not just send him a PM? This post has nothing to do with the rest of us and just wastes space here in the thread.

It is not my intention to be inflammatory however this thread is already long and for those trying to read through it posts like this are unnecessary.

Regards,

Actually I have tryed PM'ing BIGSCREEN, didn't work along time ago. But there is info in there that can help everyone. It tells you how to get 1:1 mapping, from every source. with no blanking for Buyers that are wondring if they should send it back. :)

ay221

11-09-05, 06:19 PM

When HD-DVD/Blue Ray comes out there will be strict HDCP enforcements that most likely will not allow VGA output.

ay221

11-10-05, 12:11 PM

EMAGDNIM

11-10-05, 12:50 PM

Well, if you already have misaligned panels, its a perfect reason to send it in...

SOWK

11-10-05, 07:16 PM

When HD-DVD/Blue Ray comes out there will be strict HDCP enforcements that most likely will not allow VGA output.

Well.... well... well... Let me show you the way!

People who know me from this form as like oh no, here he goes again.

But my

Dtrovision DVI Link’s DVI digital to VGA analog converter is ideal for front projectors and other analog displays with VGA/RGBHV input. The DC-DA1 is ideal for backwards compatibility with today's higher resolution devices such as HDTV tuners and DVD Players. The DC-DA1 is HDCP compliant and can be used with devices that use this copy protection feature. With 1.65GPs throughput, the DC-DA1 is ideal both for A/V equipment and Computer graphics.

Always a way around things!

:P

-SOWK

bulldowser

11-15-05, 07:50 PM

ac388

11-15-05, 09:40 PM

I had a HS50 on loan in my apartment for 2 days n then now I have owned a HS60 for 1 week. The huge difference is Contrast, contrast n contrast. With the new Dark plates they add on between their LCD panels, there is a significant difference between dark grey n black for me now. Especially when I am watching those movies with dark background all the time, like LOTR, U571 n indoor concert. If you don't care for this difference, then HS50 is the same unit.

SOWK

11-15-05, 10:41 PM

Bytehoven

11-15-05, 11:31 PM

ac388

11-16-05, 12:27 AM

Since I had the 50 for only 2 days , so it would be unfair to draw anymore comparison.

If you don't like DLP n cannot afford the Ruby, then I think this is the best $3000 projector in the market right now. I did have the AE900 n Sharp Z2000 in my apartment for a few days before the 60 purchase, n both have a lot of video noise that I cannot withstand.

thamlet

11-16-05, 11:46 AM

Ralph Potts

11-16-05, 01:54 PM

Hello,

What have people been doing regarding filter maintenance/replacement? The manual says to replace it when you see a message on the screen, and recommends to change it every 1000 hours. This seems longer than other recommendations that I have read here. Thanks.

Greetings,

I have just over 700 hours on my HS51. I have pulled the filter and checked it. It is not that dirty but I vacuumed it anyway. I have two spares in the event I need to replace it. Filters are relatively inexpensive and changing them out can be done without taking the projector down from it's mount. I found that to be a great idea.

When I had the Sony HS10 it was a pain because the projector had to be taken down to get to the air filter.

I just installed a new lamp. Of course that did require taking the unit down but installation was a piece of cake. The original lamp had 700 hours on it. I like to have a spare. I will keep this one in the unit for it's 90 day warranty period and then reinstall the original. That will stay in place until replacement. The backup will then go in until it has 700 hours and then we will see where things are at then as I will more than likely be looking to upgrade.

Regards,

Fife

11-16-05, 02:35 PM

How do you reset the lamp to 0 hrs?

1) Service Menu
or
2) Reset, Left, Right , Enter (as per page 50 in manual)?

Thanks

Ralph Potts

11-16-05, 02:43 PM

How do you reset the lamp to 0 hrs?

1) Service Menu
or
2) Reset, Left, Right , Enter (as per page 50 in manual)?

Thanks

Greetings,

#2 above as per the owner's manual. Be sure that the projector is in standby mode or it won't work.

Regards,

reaper

11-16-05, 03:13 PM

Heres the scoop: I have been researching and monitoring these forums for a long time. I was introduced to HT's by a friend who purchased an HS20 and I was blown away. I had recently decided on an HS51 but the day I was going to order it the HS60 was announced.

I have been waiting patiently but with the holidays approaching and the xbox360 around the corner I'm starting to crack. What are the opinions of HS51 owners on gaming and HD?

Should I pull the trigger now and get an HS51 with an attractive street price and then look forward to the release of a 1080p system?

-OR-

Do I hold out to Q???06 and get the HS61 and risk having to pay MSRP for what sounds like a comparable system???

The new Sanyo & Panny seem like they have alot of problems - the only other alternative I can think of would be an Optoma H77/78 - thoughts?

I would really appreciate some folk's opinions on this, paticularly SOWK and Reaper as I know you guys are gamers...

Thanks

I personally would recc buying a 720 projector soon and enjoying it until the 1920x1080 units come down into this price range. The HS51 produces a wonderful image and I think you will be extremely excited pairing it up with the 360.

I too am acquiring the Xbox 360 on launch day and cannot wait to hook it up to my HS51. In fact, I just purchased the Audio Authority 1154a component switch box to make the switching a bit easier. :)

The only thing I can say against the HS51 specifically is that

a) It is a little dim so you should have good light control
b) I have not addressed my image drift issue yet and it is really starting to bother me!

More detail on b. The lens shift on my unit is not stable. I shift the image into place. The next day, it is shifted up by 2 inches or more. Sometimes, I shift it into place and if I am watching a bassy movie, it will crawl upwards during the course of the movie. It is SO irritating to have that happen. I plan to send it in for service sometime but I can't bear to part with it.

If anyone has addressed that issue, lemme know. I haven't been keeping up with the thread lately.

reap

reaper

11-16-05, 03:21 PM

You can fix this with keystone correction electronically but it is the last thing you want to do to your projector..

Fix the mount

reaper

Hi,
Forgive, me as I posted this in the 2.35 forum, but I wanted to post here in case any HS51 experts don't frequent that forum:

=====
Hi,

I need help getting a nice rectangular image with my setup!

I have a Sony VPL-HS51 set about 15 feet back from a 10 foot wide (not diagonal) Silverstar. I have a Prismasonic H1200M secured directly in front of the HS51.

Image on screen : Photo 1 (http://www.snagabag.com/tmp/ch_setup1.jpg) - Pass through mode
Image on screen : Photo 2 (http://www.snagabag.com/tmp/ch_setup2.jpg) - Strech mode
Image on screen : Photo 3 (http://www.snagabag.com/tmp/ch_setup3.jpg) - Stretch mode

In the first photo, the lens is set to pass through mode. The sides are straight, and so are the top and bottom. However, the image is "tilted / rotated" up slightly. This is easiest to see by looking at the bottom of the image. The bottom left corner is at the bottom of the screen, but the bottom right corner is a few inches higher.

Can this be fixed electronically, or do I need to readjust my projector mount?

The 2nd and 3rd photos show the image stretched to 2.35. It's a mess! The sides both "lean in," and both slightly curve outward near the bottom. In both Photo 2 and Photo 3 the bottom corners of the image are at the bottom corners of the screen, but you can see the sides of the image do not follow the screen border up.

The top and bottom sides oof the image are both curved. Photo 2 shows the bottom curve, while Photo 1 shows the top curve. For example, in Photo 2, the bottom corners are at the screen edge, but you can see the image curve up in the middle of the bottom side.

Any and all help & advice is appreciated!

I don't mind overscan since it disappears into the black border, but the image is so misaligned currently, that if I set it to cover the screen the overscan actually goes past the border!

Thanks so much!
=====

Fife

11-16-05, 03:32 PM

Thx Placidman

SOWK

11-16-05, 03:34 PM

I too am acquiring the Xbox 360 on launch day and cannot wait to hook it up to my HS51. In fact, I just purchased the Audio Authority 1154a component switch box to make the switching a bit easier. :)

Your seriouly not going to hook up the 360 thru Componet are you?

Buy the VGA adaptor!

reaper

11-16-05, 04:13 PM

Yes I am... yes I am :P~

Hahaha...

SOWK

11-16-05, 05:16 PM

Yes I am... yes I am :P~

Hahaha...

Are you using the VGA input?

You do know you would get a much better picture from the VGA input.

bulldowser

11-16-05, 08:53 PM

http://picpop.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10059/jeez.jpg

bulldowser

11-16-05, 10:57 PM

How did you know I was a gamer?

Very much so. but how did you know?

You know I will have the xbox360 as of this tues, if you don't mind a trip to Wis I may be willing to show you the HS51 in action with HD Video using the H.264 codec. 720P gaming, and dvd movies.

For gaming lets just say, I own multiple HDTV's and I have nothing bad to say about the HS-51. Maybe just maybe a better grey scale with my brightness turned down. I can get a more 3d image if I sacrifice some greyscale on my image.

Sowk,

I have read through 165 odd pages of an HS51 forum covering over a 2 year time frame. In addition to a myriad of facts and figures on the HS51 I have learned 2 things:

a) you and Reaper occassionally post about gaming and xbox

b) you have a mutant evangelic religious fervor for vga

What I didn't notice until recently is that you are from "Tosa" I actually went to Marquette so making an exodus to the land of Cheese and Honey would be an unexpected treat...

That is if the offer still stands? I would love to come out and check out your setup, perhaps be an impartial witness to what I like to call the great vga debate.

Bytehoven

11-17-05, 02:36 AM

I thought I would cross post my OPPO971H review here, since it looked so good on the HS-51.

Enjoy

****

AVS member Ranster, sent me his OPPO 971H for some testing. I updated the firmware to D-1022 without incident, and hooked it up to my Sony HS-51 via DVI.

Let me begin by saying I find the video performance of the OPPO DVI output to be very impressive.

I have the OPPO setup:

brightness (-3)
contrast (0)
Sharpness OFF
Truelife OFF
Video 1

I used the AVIA test patterns Y/C, 200TL, Sharpness and a few others, which I have routinely used with other players. I also tested with SW III opening space fight scene, StarGate, and a couple of other films to see how the player reproduced some challenging scenes.

1st observation: The Y/C and verticle line edge noise on this player is awesome. It's the best I have seen short of the 5910, surpassing the 3910 and my old RP-91SDI/Iscan HD combination. Basically, I found there was no Y/C error and I could barely detect any false edge echo to the left side of verticle lines. In this regard, 720p and 1080i were the best, with 540p and 480p showing just a bit more line edge echo, but the 480p DVI output was vastly superior to my XP-30 component 480p.

The resolution test patterns showed better performance as I went from 480p to 540p, 720 & 1080i being the best although a little soft on the very top end as some other folks have mentioned. However, I hate EE and this very slight high end softness is a welcome alternative to many players which tend to lean toward a little EE and slight excessive sharpness which can not be turned off. Adjusting the OPPO sharpness to MEDIUM or HIGH brings back all of the EE junk for thoe who need the false sharpness fix.

In real world movie viewing, the HS-51 preferred the 720p output over the 1080i. I believe this is because the the HS-51 1080i deinterlacing does not do quite as good a job as it does handling the 720p input. So as a result, if I leave the HS-51 deinterlacer OFF, while the 1080i resolution is the best, the image has some excessive shudder particularly on verticle pans. If I turn the HS-51 to PROGRESSIVE or FILM deinterlacing mode, the shudder is eliminated but the resolution reproduction drops below 720p performance. All of this you might expect since the HS-51 is a native 720p projector, and does not have state of the art 1080i image management built in. This observation might be different on the new Sony Ruby, which is said to have an excellent deinterlacer/scaler built in.

I love the fact the OPPO has brightness and contrast controls which can be adjusted (minus). The (-3)(0) setup for Studio RGB levels is right on the money and perfect for the HS-51 which likes to see Studio RGB levels.

Every once in awhile, I thought I saw some "green" tiniting, but it was not the green shift we associate with other players with color space issues. Maybe there is a very specific lumance range which has a green shift, but I haven't found it yet.

I found the player does exhibit some jitter during playback, when you move from chapter to chapter. It takes 3-5 seconds for the video and sometimes audio to stabilize, but it does stabilze and remain solid there after.

I am at a loss to see where the video performance of the OPPO 971, is in any way inferior to 3910, which is the next to best player I have tried. The 5910 noise reduction makes for superior preformance with poorly mastered titles. But with a beautiful source, the OPPO presents a killer DVI 720p image. I do not have the HQV torture test disk, so I'm sure there are plenty of examples where the OPPO would show it's weakness. But for meat & potatoes DVDs, the OPPO is kicking butt.

I plan to experiment a little more with the Truelife ON feature, but it adds some false contrast & detail I don't prefer. However, maybe the Truelife noise reduction in some situations would be worth the effort.

I could not judge how well the OPPO reproduces color since I can not do a side by side. There might have be a slight advantage on the 3910 & 5910 in the feel of the color and contrast being just a little more dimensional, deeper, 3D as some folks say. But's it not as glaring an issue as the absence of verticle line edge echo offered on the OPPO, which I must simply rave about... I mean it's clean.

So, what's the bottom line? The OPPO 971 is glorious on the HS-51. For the money, it might just be the ticket unless one needs superior analog audio output. I have asked Ranster if the player is for sale, and if we can work out a price, I am inclined to put the XP-30 up for sale, and put the OPPO 971H in the rack.

I welcome some more experience OPPO users and critics to help me understand what I might be missing. If there is anything about the OPPO I should take a closer look, please tell me, because it's lookin' good to me.

Thanks Ranster for the chance to try this beast. I did not compare performance pre/post D-1022 software update, expect to say I would have hated having to leave Truelife ON.

cheers

RJ
...

Bytehoven

11-17-05, 02:43 AM

Sowk, That is if the offer still stands? I would love to come out and check out your setup, perhaps be an impartial witness to what I like to call the great vga debate.

Beware of the PODs.

If you don't wear a level 5 environment suit when you visit SOWK, your observations will be highly suspect, your identity having been absorbed becoming an INPUT-A POD creature.

;-)

SOWK

11-17-05, 09:45 AM

Beware of the PODs.

If you don't wear a level 5 environment suit when you visit SOWK, your observations will be highly suspect, your identity having been absorbed becoming an INPUT-A POD creature.

;-)

Hey now... :P

I am all for a digital input. But without all the flaws. I am fully stacked and packed for the transition when HDMI or DVI offer me the 1:1 mapping. I wont be updating to the HS60 - as the picture from my Input-A only Sony HS-51 is amazing. lol.
Waiting for a 1080P under $3500.00 Projector.

Current setup:

Bravo D2 - DVI at 720P / Digital Coax
Samsung OTA HDTV Tuner - DVI at 720P / Digital Coax
Laptop dock - DVI at 720P / Digital Coax

Xbox 360 - will have to be VGA. / Toslink
(not buying a VGA to DVI adaptor, then go back from DVI to VGA. lol)

All going into High-end 5 port DVI switcher. With Toslink, and Digital Coax Switcher.

Then to my Magic box... the DVI to VGA adaptor. Then a very High Quality VGA cord to my Projector.

I like the POD people.

Nice to see you back Byte.

I like your review of the Oppo. I felt the same way about the conclustions.
My friend has the oppo and the HS-51 we connected it thru HDMI and I was very impressed by the picture. Then to VGA - with little to no difference. We callibrated each setting, and I actually felt that we got deeper blacks from the Hdmi input.

My setup is still the ultimate. lol but I was impressed non the less.

thamlet

11-17-05, 10:34 AM

Greetings,

I just installed a new lamp. Of course that did require taking the unit down but installation was a piece of cake. The original lamp had 700 hours on it. I like to have a spare. I will keep this one in the unit for it's 90 day warranty period and then reinstall the original. That will stay in place until replacement. The backup will then go in until it has 700 hours and then we will see where things are at then as I will more than likely be looking to upgrade.

Regards,

Thanks for the reply on the filter maintenance placidman. For those that were wondering, I looked around yesterday and you can find the lmp-h130 lamps for $199.

Ralph Potts

11-17-05, 11:20 AM

Thanks for the reply on the filter maintenance placidman. For those that were wondering, I looked around yesterday and you can find the lmp-h130 lamps for $199.

Greetings,

Your welcome. I did see that $199.00 price on the LMP-H130 but it was only at Sony's Direct Parts website and they never seemed to be in stock. Did you see it somewhere else?

Regards,

thamlet

11-17-05, 12:15 PM

Greetings,

Your welcome. I did see that $199.00 price on the LMP-H130 but it was only at Sony's Direct Parts website and they never seemed to be in stock. Did you see it somewhere else?

Regards,

Yes, another site - it says "backordered 7 to 14 days" though. I don't think I am supposed to say vendor names and I don't know how the pm thing works yet. I will try to figure it out.

hessel holland

11-17-05, 12:19 PM

Howdy thamlet. Just click on the member's name and click "send a private message" and there you go. Let me know about the $199 bulb also. Thanks.

Fife

11-17-05, 01:23 PM

$199 is a good deal for those lamps!

In regards to the Oppo, I was thinking about either a Oppo/Momitsu using DVI to HDMI to connect to the HS-51. I am sure this will provide the BEST image.
However, the only drawbacks are sound quality and thus I may have to stick with my Sony 999 for now....unless I want to sent the Oppo to get the audio section modded.

I guess you cant complain about the Oppo for its price. It plays every disc you throw at it as its region free.

jsirwin

11-18-05, 10:02 AM

SOWK

11-19-05, 06:51 AM

Comments - Need more inputs

I was thinking about trying the Input A with my Samsung TS360 (HD D* Box). The Samsung has an RBG out. Right now I am using a DVI to HDMI cable that is 30 feet, but thought if the picture quality was the same that would give me the HDMI to use for either upscaling DVD or next year a HD DVD or Blue Ray. My current DVD is using the component input. Also if its not a bad idea do I need to look for a specail cable? The Sony manual says "HD D-sub 15 pin cable".

No just a normal Male to male VGA cord will work.

Will the picture quality be the same???

Yes (if not better! lol... I had to throw it in :p )

and HDMI will be open.

SOWK

Ralph Potts

11-19-05, 07:20 AM

Comments - Need more inputs

I was thinking about trying the Input A with my Samsung TS360 (HD D* Box). The Samsung has an RBG out. Right now I am using a DVI to HDMI cable that is 30 feet, but thought if the picture quality was the same that would give me the HDMI to use for either upscaling DVD or next year a HD DVD or Blue Ray. My current DVD is using the component input. Also if its not a bad idea do I need to look for a specail cable? The Sony manual says "HD D-sub 15 pin cable".

Greetings,

You could always just add a DVI or HDMI switcher to your setup and run all of your HDMI sources to the HS51. I currently have a 2x1 HDMI switcher running both my Denon DVD-3910 and Scientific Atlanta 8300HD high def. DVR/STB to my HS51. I added another HDMI equipped source ( Sony DVP-CX995V 400 disc DVD megachanger/SACD player ) and am going to upgrade my switcher to a 4x1.

Just another option....

Regards,

_XipHiaS_

11-19-05, 01:23 PM

Anyone tested a DVP-NS90V (or DVP-NS92V european model) on the HS50/51?
After a long (very long) search to the best DVD player for my HS50 i finally decided NOT to go with any top of the line players from Denon, Pioneer, Sony... The reason for that is that i know i'm buying a HD type of player as soon as they are out and the HD/BR war is settled or combo players show up, so saving my coins for those :).

I found some good user results on these player, except for some shift problems. So, the questions i have are: Is the shift a problem present on the HS50 via HDMI, and which device has the best scaler, the player or the projector? And wat resolution, 480p(576p Eu) or 720p gives the best result in this combo? (i know it do's not do 480i (576i Eu))

skicourse

11-20-05, 12:09 AM

Great thread! I like many out there, have a room and viewing needs that are more on the difficult side. First of all I have a 20x24 ft room that has small skylights and is painted white, so daylight viewing (although only 30% of my viewing time) competes with a fair amount of ambient light. Here's the plan: I currently have a 36" Sony XBR CRT in the far corner (need to keep for kids to use with standard def and old vcr tapes) with my High Def digital cable box, reciever, dvd, xbox and vcr on a stand underneath. I can put up to $6,500 on a HD projector, 80"-92" pulldown screen, a switching device and an upconverter if necessary. My current idea is to put the projector on a coffee table in the center of the room and project onto a wall with the windows covered by the pulldown screen that will be mounted above the window trim. I have seen the HS-51 on display with some daylight entering the room and with the rooms lighting turned up high. The screen used there was a 92 Da-Lite fixed, and I thought the system looked good without too much washout.

If I can get some sort of switcher to allow me to put all components into and choose between the 36" CRT and the Projector, can I use just the HDMI cable to connect to the HS-51?

What switching devices (with or without upconverting) would make this a reality?

What pulldown screen would you suggest to use that might help washout in daylight without killing my night viewing?

Is the Sony HS-51 up to this task or are there other options better suited within my price range?

Are there internet sites that are discounted but safe in regards to getting it to me and covering warranty problems?

Thanks in advance for your responses

reaper

11-21-05, 02:20 AM

Are you using the VGA input?

You do know you would get a much better picture from the VGA input.

No. Possibly.

Honeslty, when I look at my HS51 image, I am usually thinking to myself, "Damn, the image has drifted 2 inches vertically again! I should send this damn this back in for service. But I can't because 'event X' is coming up soon. Damn image drifting... damnit! I wonder if I could shove something in that lens area... or even hang some weights off of it. I paid $xxxx for this!? Well, the image is great and I do love this projector."

or possibly:

"I love sitting this close, but now I am starting to notice that screen door effect. I wonder when the 1080p devices will hit $2k or so. I wonder if I'll be able to scrape some cash together for one when they do."

or possibly one of these:

"Holy crap, this is awesome! Look at this! Wow! Great Movie! Shoot Kill, Die Die Die!"

However:

I am not sitting there thinking, "Man, I wish that the pixel accuracy was improved on that gun ever so slightly and man, I sure am willing to go dro $300 to get it."

Nah, I'd rather buy some bass shakers or the PS3 or something more substantial with that cash. I'll admit it, I love a good image but I've never been a videophile. I am more of a video enthusiast and an audiophile.

reap

Ralph Potts

11-21-05, 09:07 AM

No. Possibly.

Honeslty, when I look at my HS51 image, I am usually thinking to myself, "Damn, the image has drifted 2 inches vertically again! I should send this damn this back in for service. But I can't because 'event X' is coming up soon. Damn image drifting... damnit! I wonder if I could shove something in that lens area... or even hang some weights off of it. I paid $xxxx for this!? Well, the image is great and I do love this projector."

or possibly:

"I love sitting this close, but now I am starting to notice that screen door effect. I wonder when the 1080p devices will hit $2k or so. I wonder if I'll be able to scrape some cash together for one when they do."

or possibly one of these:

"Holy crap, this is awesome! Look at this! Wow! Great Movie! Shoot Kill, Die Die Die!"

However:

I am not sitting there thinking, "Man, I wish that the pixel accuracy was improved on that gun ever so slightly and man, I sure am willing to go dro $300 to get it."

Nah, I'd rather buy some bass shakers or the PS3 or something more substantial with that cash. I'll admit it, I love a good image but I've never been a videophile. I am more of a video enthusiast and an audiophile.

reap

Greetings,

Reap, GREAT post !! :D

SOWK

11-21-05, 01:43 PM

However:

I am not sitting there thinking, "Man, I wish that the pixel accuracy was improved on that gun ever so slightly and man, I sure am willing to go dro $300 to get it."

Nah, I'd rather buy some bass shakers or the PS3 or something more substantial with that cash. I'll admit it, I love a good image but I've never been a videophile. I am more of a video enthusiast and an audiophile.

reap

You don't have to pay $300.00 to get it. Microsoft released a VGA adaptor for the 360.

Thats it. its $39.99

jsirwin

11-21-05, 04:51 PM

Wel the Gefen 4 HDMI x 1 DVI switch would work quite well but also need anothe DVI to HDMI from the D* Box so now I am at about $400. If the 30' VGA cable can be had for $40 - $150 and the picture quality is not deminished it would be a cheaper alternative. Picture quality with a VGA cable.............................anyone using this setup? I had the projector upgrade in July if that is a factor.

flamaest

11-23-05, 12:30 AM

You don't have to pay $300.00 to get it. Microsoft released a VGA adaptor for the 360.

Thats it. its $39.99

Are we talking about the same kind of adapter?

F.

reaper

11-23-05, 12:56 AM

You don't have to pay $300.00 to get it. Microsoft released a VGA adaptor for the 360.

Thats it. its $39.99

Yeah, I was considering it for the 360. But I'd still need to buy a VGA run @ 30ft. I buy my analog cables from bluejeanscable.com. I trust their quality. The price for the VGA cable at that length is $155. Still a bit much. I hope you didn't take offense to my post SOWK. I know how much you love the VGA port on the 51.

SOWK

11-23-05, 12:07 PM

Yeah, I was considering it for the 360. But I'd still need to buy a VGA run @ 30ft. I buy my analog cables from bluejeanscable.com. I trust their quality. The price for the VGA cable at that length is $155. Still a bit much. I hope you didn't take offense to my post SOWK. I know how much you love the VGA port on the 51.

No not at all. I didn't know you had to have the Xbox 360 across the room from the projector.

But... I did do a comparison between VGA and Componet. VGA is noticeably more clear and defined. While Componet allows for a Blacker Black, and the ability to has access to color saturation.

Bytehoven

11-23-05, 03:39 PM

SOWK

11-23-05, 08:20 PM

RBG-HV has the potential to perform better than YUV, but such is not always the case.

The DVDO Iscan HD & HD+ produced a YUV HD signal that was every bit as beautiful as it's RGB-HV signal. As a result, chosing the YUV connection on the HS-51 was a no brainer because of the extra image controls, particularly sharpness, which are lost on the RGB-HV Input-A connection.

If the Xbox 360 has YUV component HD output, and you then use a YUV-VGA converter, the images are only as good as the original YUV signal. Keeping the signal in YUV with the HS-51, allows for maximum image control.

If the Xbox 360 has an internal menu for switching between YUV and RGB on the component output, there might be a chance for superior quality. But if the Xbox 360 converts YUV -> VGA, it's not likely the VGA signal will look better than the YUV, as you would choose YUV under the INput-A connection and still get access to all of the image controls.

EDIT: After a little searching it seems true VGA output on the Xbox 360 will only be 640x480. A component -> VGA adapter will provide full HD resolution as a YUV/VGA signal over the VGA adapter. As a result, there will be no signal performance advantage using the YUV->VGA adapter with the HS-51 over the standard Component HD cable that comes with the XBox 360. The HS-51 will be processing a YUV signal either way, just thru different connections. The VGA adapter is only required when using a PC monitor/display which only has a VGA input.

EDIT 2: There is one scenario where the VGA adapter makes sense, and that's if you are already using the HS-51 YUV Component inputs with another device like a DVD PLayer or HDTV Tuner. The VGA adapter would then allow for the added benefit of running the XBox 360 on the INput-A connection, but there won't be a quality difference.

AHHHHHH, stop. Everything your saying is right in "theory." But it is not the case with the Sony HS-51.

At this moment I would assume you don't have either the Xbox 360 or the VGA adaptor. Also the X-box 360 does detect the VGA as RGB, and not a YUV signal. It is not converting it.

I have it all right here at my place, I can test it all for myself. and yes I have. There is a huge difference. HUH.... Maybe because I said a long time ago 720P with 1:1 mapping will make a difference. But all you guys are like oh no you won't be able to tell. HAHA. Get better eyes.

Plus, what are you smoking about the sharpness control? Are you getting edge enhancement when sending a 720P RGB signal thru VGA to the Sony HS-51 in computer mode?

You shouldn't be.

If so return your unit now, and get the HS-60.

mimason

11-23-05, 08:37 PM

AHHHHHH, stop. Everything your saying is right in "theory." But it is not the case with the Sony HS-51.

At this moment I would assume you don't have either the Xbox 360 or the VGA adaptor. Also the X-box 360 does detect the VGA as RGB, and not a YUV signal. It is not converting it.

I have it all right here at my place, I can test it all for myself. and yes I have. There is a huge difference. HUH.... Maybe because I said a long time ago 720P with 1:1 mapping will make a difference. But all you guys are like oh no you won't be able to tell. HAHA. Get better eyes.

Plus, what are you smoking about the sharpness control? Are you getting edge enhancement when sending a 720P RGB signal thru VGA to the Sony HS-51 in computer mode?

You shouldn't be.

If so return your unit now, and get the HS-60.

I have the HS51 and HD+. IMO the HDMI option is visibly better than VGA at 1:1. Additionally, I also get 0% overscan using the negative zoom feature of the HD+. Did I mention colors are more accurate via HDMI and there is much less noise than analog? To each his own I guess. Bottom line is that you are happy though.

Bytehoven

11-23-05, 10:06 PM

SOWK

11-23-05, 11:04 PM

I have the HS51 and HD+. IMO the HDMI option is visibly better than VGA at 1:1. Additionally, I also get 0% overscan using the negative zoom feature of the HD+. Did I mention colors are more accurate via HDMI and there is much less noise than analog? To each his own I guess. Bottom line is that you are happy though.

Wow... First - we are not talking about HDMI. Second - not every single person here has at there disposal the HD+.

and Noise? Are you using home made 25 gage wire anolog connectors?

I have no noise here. There is no movement of my pixel structure inside the pixel or the outer edges.

But I would agree that the HDMI could give better color.
Also Xbox 360 has no HDMI connector.

But I did learn something. The HD + allows for compensating overscan. That a great feature.

Now the question is, with the correction on are you able to get true 1:1 mapping, or whould a single white pixel on a black background still take up more then one pixel on the Sony HS-51?

mimason

11-23-05, 11:44 PM

Wow... First - we are not talking about HDMI

Fair enough. I more or less read into the post based on your previous comments regarding Input-A.

Are you using home made 25 gage wire anolog connectors?

I use wire shirt hangers(the white one's). I fasten them together with those green and white bread twist ties. :D

Have a Happy Thanksgiving.

SOWK

11-24-05, 06:51 AM

you never answered the question about the hd+ i had.

Hey byte you have one too right?

Just answer the question.

BTW happy thanksgiving

Bytehoven

11-24-05, 07:27 AM

I use wire shirt hangers(the white one's). I fasten them together with those green and white bread twist ties. :D

Have a Happy Thanksgiving.

Hey, I use the bronze color shirt hangers, but I have found tie wraps work better because they are non conductors and don't induce any ghosting.

I have thought about trying the really heavy winter coat hangers. Any idea if that might affect the 720p HDMI overscan?

Happy Thanks Giving.

;-)

PS: I'll spending the day reading The New Jedi Order: The Unifying Force. I'm about a 1/3rd the way thru since last night, and what a great read so far.

pjp

11-24-05, 01:16 PM

Bytehoven

11-24-05, 02:14 PM

When I use Playstation 2 on an HS-51 in high-def modes, the display is much too dark to be usable. The PS2 looks much better on the S-video connection with display setup on PS2 set to "normal" than it does connected via component with any of the PS2 settings (normal, 480p, or 1080i). Even when I use the "dynamic" setting on the HS-51 with lamp on high, the picture is dull with the component connection.

I've noticed the same thing to a lesser degree with the HDMI DVD connection to a Dennon 1920 -- the picture on 480p seems to be much brighter than it is on 720p. I'm pretty much a rookie at front projectors, so I hope I'm doing something wrong and this problem can be corrected. Thanks in advance for any advice!

When comparing the S-video, component and HDMI imputs, take long look at all of your settings. It sounds like you have some tweaking to do to the settings under HDMI, to get the calibration dialed in.

I have tried the 2910, and after proper calibration, HDMI performance was much better than S-video or component.

Also take a look at your setting on the 1920, make sure you're in NORMAL HDMI/DVI black mode, and then under setup M1-5, switch from 7.5IRE to 0IRE for proper black levels.

Your observation, particularly with the 1920, suggests there is a calibration issue.

Welcome to the forum and feel free topost some settings for review, as well as check out some of these settings we have posted from our setups.

pjp

11-24-05, 03:11 PM

Also take a look at your setting on the 1920, make sure you're in NORMAL HDMI/DVI black mode, and then under setup M1-5, switch from 7.5IRE to 0IRE for proper black levels.

I'll give these settings a try -- thanks very much for the detailed response.

mimason

11-25-05, 01:25 PM

But I did learn something. The HD + allows for compensating overscan. That a great feature.

Now the question is, with the correction on are you able to get true 1:1 mapping, or whould a single white pixel on a black background still take up more then one pixel on the Sony HS-51?

There is no 1:1 with HD+ negative zoom.

pjp

11-25-05, 02:31 PM

Also take a look at your setting on the 1920, make sure you're in NORMAL HDMI/DVI black mode, and then under setup M1-5, switch from 7.5IRE to 0IRE for proper black levels.

I've changed HDMI mode to "normal" from enhanced and I changed the "black level" from on to off -- I couldn't find anything on the DVD controls that stated 0 or 7.5 IRE, maybe black level "off" means 0IRE?

The picture is improved with these changes. I probably need to get a tuning DVD to finish the setup -- I have the Sound & Vision tune-up DVD, but I think this is more geared towards CRT than an LCD front projector -- will check archives for tuning disc recommendations.

Thanks again for the help, the picture does look much better.

Bytehoven

11-25-05, 06:52 PM

I've changed HDMI mode to "normal" from enhanced and I changed the "black level" from on to off -- I couldn't find anything on the DVD controls that stated 0 or 7.5 IRE, maybe black level "off" means 0IRE?

If the 1920 is like the 2910/3910, there is a PICTURE menu accessable via the remote control. This menu will have M1 thru M5, allowing for (5) different setups. You flip past the M5 menu, and you will see the option to change the SETUP, which comes factory set to 7.5 IRE.

The DVE or AVIA calibration setup DVD is important if you are going to get the best setup possible.

pjp

11-27-05, 09:46 AM

If the 1920 is like the 2910/3910, there is a PICTURE menu accessable via the remote control. This menu will have M1 thru M5, allowing for (5) different setups. You flip past the M5 menu, and you will see the option to change the SETUP, which comes factory set to 7.5 IRE.

The DVE or AVIA calibration setup DVD is important if you are going to get the best setup possible.
There is a picture menu of sorts accessible by hitting the "mode" button and scrolling through options like brightness, etc -- this is where I set black level to off -- but I can't find a 0/7.5IRE option. It could be that the 1920 differs from the 2910/3910. Thanks for the help.

Bytehoven

11-27-05, 10:36 AM

There is a picture menu of sorts accessible by hitting the "mode" button and scrolling through options like brightness, etc -- this is where I set black level to off -- but I can't find a 0/7.5IRE option. It could be that the 1920 differs from the 2910/3910. Thanks for the help.

From the owners manual, it looks like you have:

Under SETUP:
HDMI PICTURE: Which you should leave set to NORMAL.

Under MODE:
BLACK LEVEL: Setting this to ON appears to switch to 0 IRE, while OFF sets to 7.5 IRE.

DaveHT

11-28-05, 07:30 AM

Hello there!

I’ve already introduced myself in the HS60 thread, but here goes a quick intro: I have been following the HS50/51 threads, both the "tweaking" and the "official" threads (btw, thank you all for the information you guys give here in these forums!), and after demo’ing some projectors, I purchased the HS50 two weeks ago. Although the HS60 is (more than likely) better, the price and availability of the HS50 made me decide to purchase it. After all, there’s always something better "coming soon" – after the HS60 it could probably be some projector using Sony’s Bi:NA or Epson’s C2Fine - and the truth is that after some tweaking I’m pretty satisfied with the HS50’s image (and I consider myself to be on the “picky” side, picture-wise)…

Ok, so as I said, I bought the HS50 two weeks ago. What really happened is that the store didn’t have it in stock, but they were kind enough to lend me their demo unit until my unit arrived. I was pretty satisfied with the projector and all was good. Saturday I went to pick my brand-new HS50 and returned their demo unit. What you’re probably guessing is that what happened is that my unit doesn’t seem to be as good as the demo unit I had.

I use my HS50 with a HTPC through the VGA port, and so I have perfect 1:1 pixel mapping with 1280x720@50hz (also works with 48 and 60hz). After I unpacked the unit I performed the same tests I did with the demo unit I had, running some patterns, etc, and now I have some questions for you guys.

I found out that I have a 1-pixel-to-the-right misalignment of the green panel relative to the blue and red panels. It’s not a really big issue from a normal seating distance, but I can see that the picture is a little bit softer (especially on PC text, but only barely noticeable on movie subtitles) than the demo unit I had (which had practically perfect convergence). This is also visible in the menus, so it’s not a connection issue. I’m pretty much convinced that this misalignment can be corrected electronically, because the misalignment is exactly 1-pixel wide across the whole picture, and I can see that the panels on the HS50 have more than the "declared" 1280x720 – there are two or three columns of "black" pixels on each side and also some rows on the top and on the bottom (actually I didn’t check the top, but I saw the bottom ones). I’m convinced that these extra pixels are there to do some "coarse" tuning of the convergence without actually having to physically adjust them. Unfortunately I haven’t found a way to do this through the service menu. Does anyone know if there is a way, or this is only possible in a Sony repair centre?

Although the demo unit had 300 hours on the lamp, my new unit is much dimmer on dark scenes. Actually it’s too dim! I went to the service menu and the values for the iris were 41/214 (the demo unit had 41/208 and I used 41/205, which gave slightly worse black level, but much better "punch"). I tried the calibration steps like they are described in the last post of the "tweaking" thread, but contrary to what happened with the demo unit (which resulted in 41/205), this gave me some strange results (I must have done something wrong, I don’t know). After some tries with dark scenes (like the mines of moria chapters in FOTR), I settled with 41/210, which is much, much better (my girlfriend also appreciated the change, as she also noticed that the unit was initially dimmer that the demo one). I believe that this iris setting, which is different on each unit, is the reason why these projectors are sometimes referred as being dim, while others say that it’s not. Why there is such a big difference between units is something that we would have to ask Sony... Fortunately, this was a problem I could fix myself.

I found out that I have very slight vertical banding on the green panel (I see it with a solid green picture, but don’t see it in red or blue). I saw this on other HS50’s, including the demo one, but on my unit it’s a little bit more visible. Note that I’m being picky! I saw VB on Epson D4 units (Hitachi, Panasonic, Sanyo…), and this is much, much, (MUCH!) more subtle than that. What I want to ask is if anyone knows of a setting on the service menu that has influence on this. I can only see this on some specific scenes when watching video material, like the snow scene on the beginning of “the day after tomorrow”. Normally it’s not visible at all…

My unit doesn’t have perfect color uniformity (seems to be common with this pj). This, however, is better than the demo unit I had, which had it worse. I know that this can be adjusted in the service menu, but I think no-one has actually done it, as it seems to be there for "machine automatic calibration", that is, not practical for a human to do it (something like 9009 available values, if I remember correctly). Is this correct, or is there anyone that has successfully done it manually?

Also, it seems that all changes in the service menu are only temporary if you do not press “save to memory”. Is this correct, or has anyone found out that some values survive the unit’s power down, even if you don’t save them?

Sorry for all the questions. If anyone can help me, I’d appreciate it. Unfortunately I don’t have the service manual, as some of these questions may (or may not) have an answer there. I’ve searched through both this thread and the tweaking thread and haven’t found answers to these issues, but I was hopping that someone here might know some of the answers.

I like to get the best of what I paid for. In this case, it’s more obvious that I’m not getting that because I had another unit to compare with. I could return the unit and ask for a new one, but this issues that I’ve referred to are a bit too small for me to justify to the store as to why they should exchange it.

Thanks, and again sorry for such a long post!

Cheers,
Dave.

_XipHiaS_

11-28-05, 09:28 AM

Well, as I didn’t get a reaction on the “
Anyone tested a DVP-NS90V (or DVP-NS92V european model) on the HS50/51?” question, I tried it myself :).

After a long (very long) search to the best DVD player for my HS50 i finally decided NOT to go with any top of the line players from Denon, Pioneer, Sony... The reason for that is that i know i'm buying a HD type of player as soon as they are out and the HD/BR war is settled or combo players show up, so saving my coins for those :).

Still the only test material I have at the moment is the THX optimizer, some PC test patterns via DVI and my eyes. Used a Sony DVP-7700 via component 576i. So my eyes are not updated with all the new players on the market :).

I connected the NS92V via a 5 meter Belkin Pure AV HDMI cable, set the settings to ‘Standard’ and sharpness, BNR, MNR to ‘off’. 720p at YcBcR.
It shows BTB and i tuned BLevel a bit.

Then put in Star Wars III and all I can say is whow! Detail and colors where great. Only saw some very small jaggie’s here and there and a few hints of stairstepping in some lines/degrees, but I can live with that till HD disc’s.

Not so great was the speed, even my old Sony was faster, but ok, that one only could play CD and DVD discs.
Did see the image shift that is talked about. It’s all the way to the right and I have a 1cm line at top and bottom. Hope those get fixed with firmware. I also had trouble at the layer change around 59 min. on my reg. 2 PAL SWIII disc, so i set it at 60 minutes myself and it played it perfectly to the end. Look’s like I’m not the only one with SWIII problems.
The 7700 played it perfect.

Played The Incredibles and no problem there, fast almost uninterrupted change, even faster than on the 7700.

So, i Keep this one, hoping the small annoyances getting fixed by firmware.

Edit: The problem with the SWIII DVD is solved, it was a bug with the DVD production. The center of the DVD was misaligned by to much plastic, cousing to rotate the DVD in an unstable way as it was off-centered this way. So now i think it was nice that it played it, only the layer change was to much to correct at the outer side of the DVD.

thamlet

12-01-05, 12:46 PM

Hi everybody,

I just wanted to update/warn people about the site I mentioned a couple of weeks ago with the $199 bulbs. I ordered one and my visa was charged immediately, but I didn't get any confirmation or reciept. I called them a couple of days later and they said it was because the bulbs were on back order. They said I would recieve the reciept when it was shipped. Well today David_GP brings to my attention that the site now says "Discontinued - This Product Is No Longer Available. Please Select Another Item." I called them and they told me they will have to talk to their sales rep to figure out what is going on. It appears that they never had any of the bulbs to begin with, so I apologize to anyone who tried to buy from this vendor. Looks like it is one to avoid.

hessel holland

12-01-05, 01:35 PM

Howdy...don't know if it's the same place I ordered from. { ABT...........com} . If so, I just called and the CSR said the bulbs are still showing in their computer as being on order and are expected in around the 16th. They removed them from their listing because all bulbs they will be receiving have already been sold. We shall see.

thamlet

12-01-05, 01:55 PM

Yes, the same place.

That makes me feel a little better. The person I talked to neglected to give me all of the information. Thanks for the update.

Monty Williams

12-01-05, 02:33 PM

ABT is my local dealer. I just ordered a bulb and filter from them and they had no problem getting it for me.

Ralph Potts

12-01-05, 02:52 PM

Well guys it has been awhile since I have posted in this thread (I've been busy watching movies:) ) But I have been noticing a problem with my pj.

Every time I turn it on, I have to re-focus it. I generally bring up the main menu to adjust this since I have also noticed that you can have a sharp picture in the middle and fuzzy around the edges of the screen, this way I make sure the the top right of the menu and the bottom left are both in focus.

I have just recently noticed this, I have approx 700 hrs on the pj and did not have to adjust it in the beginning. Should I be worried?

Greetings,

I have started to notice this on my HS51 as well. The unit has just under 800 hours on it. I seem to have to refocus it 3 to 4 times a week. I keep mine sharply focused and it is noticeable when the unit is defocused even slightly.

Anyone else notice this on their units?

Regards,

Kris Deering

12-01-05, 03:35 PM

Yep, I've been seeing the same thing lately. It is a bit inconsistent in how often, but it is enough to notice that it is an issue.

Ralph Potts

12-01-05, 03:51 PM

Yep, I've been seeing the same thing lately. It is a bit inconsistent in how often, but it is enough to notice that it is an issue.

Greetings,

Thanks Kris. I will try and pinpoint how ofter it is occuring on my unit and reply back. How many hours do you have on your HS51 ?

Regards,

COMLOKIT

12-04-05, 08:49 PM

I just wanted to warn everyone who has a SONY VPL-HS51 of what I'm going thru.

I bought my VPL-HS51 this last year and installed in in May of 2005. I must say that I was extremely pleased with the projector until November 2nd only 6 months of use.

That evening when I came home and turned on the projector I noticed an immediate problem of the picture being very dim. I checked all unit settings and determined that nothing had changed in the units programming. So after 20 minutes of the dim picture I turned the unit off and back on. When unit powered back up it had the same problem. So this time after letting the unit power down and cool off I removed the A/C power from the unit for 5 minutes to try to reset. After several attempts it was apparent there was a problem with the unit that couldn’t be fixed by a reset.

After I performed all user manual and Sony Support website troubleshooting it was determined that I must call in for repair.

On 11-03-05 I called and spoke with Lee in the Support Center. After all his recommendations we determined it must be repaired.

Projector Problem Diagnosis:

During the troubleshooting I noticed that the light output coming from the lens was definitely be blocked by an internal component. It was my opinion that Auto Iris feature of the unit was in the CLOSED position. When looking directly into the light output of the lens you could only see an opening about the size of a Nickel allowing the light to pass.

Going on the advice of the SONY SERVICE CENTER tech I setup a work order to have the unit serviced.

Before I actually removed the unit from my ceiling, I decided to watch it thru the weekend at least before I was going to ship it off.

Later the next evening the LAMP burned out. Bare it mind this LAMP and Projector had less than a 1000 hours of use.

I was really thinking man this unit has a problem, all the research I did on this unit before buying it indicated I should get between 2000-3000 hrs of use before changing the bulb. I always watched the unit on the LOW LAMP SETTING on the Cinema Picture setting.

So at this point I was really thinking something with the projector itself caused the LAMP to burn out pre-maturely.

Well I boxed the unit all up in the original box and packing material like I got and even added additional foam packing since the cardboard box inserts allow the unit to shift during shipment. I also double boxed the unit in a nice big Dell PC box with lots of foam.

This projector was only 6 months old and not a scratch on it.

NOW HERE IS WERE THE TROUBLE STARTS:

SONY REPAIR CENTER in Laredo Texas received the unit on Nov. 14th.
Nov. 22nd the SONY Repair website showed that the unit had been repaired and will be shipped back to me in one business day. So I called the repair center on the 22nd and asked for a tracking number and asked what was wrong with the unit. The guy told me he couldn't see a tracking number for it yet in the system but it was definitely being shipped out today and that the LAMP and FILTER was replaced.

So a couple of days when by and still no email tracking number or phone calls from them.

OK I realize this tread is becoming extremely long so I'll try to wrap it up here.

Basically the unit was completed on the 22nd I called SONY several times and everyone told me it was on its way and there wouldn't be any charges.

Finally on the 29th I called them back and spoke with Victor and be once again assured me that the unit was going out today and there would be NO CHARGE for the repair. He stated that he would for sure get me a tracking number today.

Later that evening a SONY rep called my house at 4:45 pm their local time 15 minutes after they closed and spoke with my wife stating that they need approval and a credit card for the unit to be shipped back to me. She said you need to call my husband on his cell phone. She gave them the number and NO PHONE CALL on my cell.

Nov. 30th called again and spoke with two other SONY reps and finally got connected with a guy named Cesare which stated that their was nothing he could do about the charges for the LAMP replacement. The bulbs have only a 90 Day warranty PERIOD. I said look my bulb didn't have 1000 hrs on it, and if I had left the unit on for 90 Days straight it would - 2160 hours. So your warranty of 90 days is a joke. After talking directly with a projector technician he stated that the average LAMP last only 1500 hrs in these units. I was like man that's a load of crap because all the published reviews etc stated 2000-3000hrs. Back to their warranty of 90 Days. He stated that they only warranty a bulb past the 90 Days if it has less than 300 hrs. So now at this point I'm figuring I'll be replacing my LAMP about 3 times a year if it lasts 1000-1500 hrs. Man I sure hope I'm wrong.

Anyways after all the delays and BS SONY put me thru, I was only able to get them to send it Next Day back to me, and I still had to pay $215.49 for the LAMP.

WAIT YOU THOUGHT THAT WAS BAD READ ON...

Got my projector back from the UPS man yesterday.

1.) Bummed they shipped it back in the original box they sell them in.
2.) Opened it UP and found that they JUST SHRINK WRAPPED the unit WITHOUT the LENS CAP nor the protective foam that goes around the LENS to keep it from moving during shipment.

3.) LAST AND WORST OF ALL THEY SCRATCHED THE HELL OUT OF THE OUTER CASE. I wanted to SCREAMMMMMMMMMMMMMM.

These idiots didn't know what the heck they were doing. It looks like someone tried repairing the thing on the floor or something.

ANYWAYS I CALLED and complained, but I won't hear anything back from them until after the weekend.

THEY NOW WILL HAVE TO GIVE ME A BRAND NEW UNIT. I will not rest until I get one.

BOTTOM LINE IF YOU HAVE A PROBLEM WITH YOUR VPL-HS51 picture beingvery dimm and you have less than 2000 hrs on it, try replacing the bulb first yourself. I wish their Tech support people would have recommended that to me first before asking me to send it in.

So now after a long month and numerous phone calls I'm still not done with this NIGHTMARE.

Has anyone else experienced a similar issue with the LAMP or their service center?

jlcool007

12-04-05, 09:02 PM

wow, that sucks, sony service does indeed suck tho, best wishes, sorry to hear what they put you thru

Kris Deering

12-04-05, 10:15 PM

Greetings,

Thanks Kris. I will try and pinpoint how ofter it is occuring on my unit and reply back. How many hours do you have on your HS51 ?

Regards,

Just hit about 300 hrs. I haven't had a focus issue in about a week though. Really weird.

Bytehoven

12-04-05, 11:29 PM

I just wanted to warn everyone who has a SONY VPL-HS51 of what I'm going thru.

Welcome to AVS.

Hell of a splash you're making with your very 1st post. ;-)

Drop me an email and I will share a couple of Sony email contacts I can not post on the forum. promo@blanca.com

We are all interested in how Sony resolves your problem, so keep us posted.

Again, welcome to AVS.

Ralph Potts

12-05-05, 10:24 AM

Just hit about 300 hrs. I haven't had a focus issue in about a week though. Really weird.

Greetings,

Kris, I did a refocus on mine on Tuesday 11/30 and have not had to since. Your right, it 's weird.

Regards,

djos

12-05-05, 06:09 PM

Greetings,

Kris, I did a refocus on mine on Tuesday 11/30 and have not had to since. Your right, it 's weird.

Regards,

Mine used to drift before i mounted it to the ceiling using an LP Morgan Skyhook - never had it drift since! :)

I Suspect the mechanisms are suseptable to vibrations which cause the lens to Drift.

COMLOKIT

12-05-05, 06:10 PM

[QUOTE=Bytehoven]Welcome to AVS.

Hell of a splash you're making with your very 1st post. ;-)

Thanks for the feedback. Well I've called 4 times today and no resolution yet. Now I'm waiting to hear back from Adrianna from the Laredo Repair Center. We'll see if they actually call back tomorrow.

I try to post a link to some pictures of what they did to mine soon.

thamlet

12-06-05, 01:41 PM

jschefdog

12-06-05, 03:27 PM

1.) Bummed they shipped it back in the original box they sell them in.
2.) Opened it UP and found that they JUST SHRINK WRAPPED the unit WITHOUT the LENS CAP nor the protective foam that goes around the LENS to keep it from moving during shipment.
I believe this is their standard operating procedure. I had the same experience about 6 months ago except I had no scratches. I double boxed mine when I shipped it with the foam around the lens. Came back in product box only, shrink wrapped with no foam around the lens. Afterwards the lens shift was much rougher, probably from the lens assembly banging around during shipment. They sent me a survey and I complained about this in detail. Sounds like that was a waste of time since they are still doing it. :rolleyes:

COMLOKIT

12-06-05, 08:56 PM

Thanks for sharing your experience with me. Why on earth would any SO CALLED TECHNICIAN pack it up like this. I was really supprised to see how the unit was packed when I first bought it, and blown away on how the service center ships them back.

Just an update on the Service Manager calling me back. NOT, no phone calls from them since Saturday. Would have called them today but was in bed all day with the Flu.

I'm really going to cause a stink with the Service Center packing procedures as well. I plan on mailing complaint letters to their customer relations head quarters daily to make my point. I bet you even Infocus packs their 4805 units better than SONY does. I wonder how SONY packs up their $30K projectors.

hawkeye3.1

12-06-05, 09:29 PM

Damn COMLOKIT, thats about the last thing I wanted to read seeing as how I am getting ready to send mine in for the 720P fix. Another poster had his come back with a scratched case, I believe they sent a replacement after he complained sufficiently. Hard to believe they will not take the time to at least put the lens packing on before shipping. Hope they do the right thing for you.

COMLOKIT

12-08-05, 01:13 AM

Before you pack yours up make sure you tape a small piece of paper (something like a large shipping label, make sure its not to sticky though) to your projectors outercase stating "DO NOT SCRATCH PLEASE AND PACK PROPERLY WITH LENS FOAM AND CAP". I highly suggest taking a couple of pictures of your unit before you send it in. That way you have proof of the condition when you sent it in.

I finally spoke with Adriana the Service Center Manager today and emailed her the photos of my scratched unit. Hopefully I'll hear back from her tomorrow.

I 'll Keep everyone posted.

COMLOKIT

12-08-05, 01:16 AM

I wanted to give a Special Thanks to AVS Member Bytehoven

Without his help, I'm sure I would be getting alot more resistance from the Sony Service Center.

Thanks Bytehoven

Bytehoven

12-08-05, 03:13 AM

I wanted to give a Special Thanks to AVS Member Bytehoven

Without his help, I'm sure I would be getting alot more resistance from the Sony Service Center.

Thanks Bytehoven

Tell me more.

Did Rob or Mike hook you up?

;-)

SOWK

12-08-05, 09:21 AM

Tell me more.

Did Rob or Mike hook you up?

;-)

Byte... Thank you for helping out the forum members.

Schwa

12-08-05, 01:39 PM

Byte... Thank you for helping out the forum members.
Hear hear!

jeffropaige

12-08-05, 03:22 PM

true true byte hooked me up w/ numbers for hdmi fix thanks again. jeff

mimason

12-08-05, 03:32 PM

What HDMI fix? Was there an issue or is this the blanking issue renamed?

jeffropaige

12-08-05, 05:54 PM

yes the blanking issue----jeff

jwitcosk

12-08-05, 08:59 PM

Hello Everyone.

I have had my HS51 projector for almost a year (I received in on New Year's Eve last year) and have been very happy with it until recently. I did send it in for the 720p fix without a problem. Now that I am nearing 800 hours on the projector, I have begin to notice the dreaded verticle banding that has been discussed on many threads. I have seen this on other projectors before, so there is no doubt that is what it is. It is independent of source/setting on the projector.

I know this projector was VB free when I received it nearly a year ago. It was also VB free when it came back from the 720p upgrade (I think, although I didn't really check for it). But now I definatly have it.

My question is whether anyone else has expereinced this. VB Free to start, but as the projector ages it appears. If so, are there any adjustments (like exist in the Panasonic projectors to deal with VB). I'm pretty sure that VB is in the panels and not the projector, so a bulb aging/bulb changing wouldn't affect this.

Also, is this something the projector can be sent in for repair for, or am I more likely to receive the "unit is operating within tolerances" sort of message from Sony.

Thanks in advance for any input anyone might have.

John

Kris Deering

12-08-05, 09:23 PM

You should be able to send it back in to Sony for repair.

COMLOKIT

12-09-05, 01:04 AM

Rob was the one that responded to my email. He stated he forward it to someone after he read it, and stated that it should soon be handled. As of yet I'm not sure how they are going to resolve my issue. Someone from Sony called my cell today and left me a voicemail and I tried calling them back twice today ended up getting their voicemail both times. I also emailed Adriana the Service Manager tonight as well asking for a status. Hopefully tomorrow I'll hear something.

On another note: After I re-installed my damaged projector (that way I can at least watch something) and set it back up, It was very apparent the picture quality is now crap. Lots of dot crawl and dull picture on HD and SD. NOT at all what it use to be.

SONY BETTER GIVE ME A BRAND SPANKING NEW ONE.

dschmoldt

12-09-05, 01:16 AM

Uh, did you send them a brand spanking new one?

masterpasser

12-09-05, 03:43 AM

Bytehoven

12-09-05, 02:45 PM

I have my HS50 in for the 720p fix.
I have been advised by Sony service that the model I have does not require the fix ?
serial number 10430.
This is strange as I have the border around the 720p projected image and it is significantly smaller than 1080i .
Is there a definitive serial number where the fix was incorporated at the factory ?

A black border around a 720p source image, which is smaller than any other resolution, is what needs to be fixed.

There was a US HD-51 serial number floating around in this thread, but I don't know if it also worked for the HS-50.

You might want to move up the customer service chain to a manager, and describe your 720p image display, and ask to have the projector corrected.

COMLOKIT

12-10-05, 04:09 PM

Tell me more.

Did Rob or Mike hook you up?

;-)

Well yesterday morning I finally got a call back from SONY, and Guess What?

I was told I will be receiving a new projector late next week. I can't tell you how glad I will be to put this headach behind me. Thanks again Bytehoven for your help. I'm sure glad that I came on this forum and told my story and someone listened and helped out.

Hopefully all the complaints I've made to Sony about my bad experience will change the way they handle future projectors. I sure hope that if anyone sends in their projector soon after this last week that they get them back packed properly and unscratched. I was told by Adriana the Service Center Manager that they will be changing the way these projectors are shipped back.

If anyone gets theirs back packed properly or not please let us know on the forum so that we know whether they have in fact changed their bad habits or not.

Bytehoven

12-10-05, 04:37 PM

Well yesterday morning... I was told I will be receiving a new projector late next week.

Very good. That's better treatment then I get. ;-)

Did you ask if they would be sending you the HS-51A?

I'm glad it worked out.

COMLOKIT

12-11-05, 07:04 PM

Very good. That's better treatment then I get. ;-)

Did you ask if they would be sending you the HS-51A?

I'm glad it worked out.

What's a HS-51A? The unit I had before already had the firmware fix on it when I bought it. They didn't give me a choice, they just stated I would be receiving a new one. Its not coming from the Repair Center thank god. It should be coming from their normal sales distribution.

Bytehoven

12-11-05, 07:42 PM

The HS-51A is the name for the new US version of the HS-60 introduced in the rest of the world. It has some improvements in the optical block to increase contrast even more.

You can read more about it in the HS-60 thread.

I would assume Sony has plenty of HS-50s available to give you one of those rather than the new model. But you never know. Maybe you will be lucky.

;-)

Walks

12-11-05, 08:36 PM

I recently purchased an HS51 and I installed the projector today. This is my first projector and I'm hoping someone can help me with correcting the projected display. The HS51 is ceiling mounted and the width of the display is 80". The top of the display is perfectly horizontal but the bottom of the display is lower on the right side than the left. The left side of the display measures 42" while the right side measures 44.5". I've tried swiveling the projector mounting from side to side and up and down but the same condition exists. The V Keystone menu command also has no effect on this issue. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to correct this?

Bytehoven

12-11-05, 11:38 PM

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to correct this?

I assume you have mounted the projector as square to the screen as you could.

Now it's a balance of the way you aim the projector and then correct with the up/down left/right lens shift adjustments.

I suggest doing this by making the projected screen size about an inch or so smaller than the screen space, so you can clearly see all edges.

Let's start with the top/bottom 1st. You will want to reaim the projector in the direction of the small end of the keystone. Then use the left/right lens shift to recenter the image. When you go to far, you will see the small end of the keystone shift to the other side. After a couple of tweaks, you should get it close.

Now look at the sides. Tilt the projector up/down in the direction of the small end of the keystone, then use the up/down lens shift to recenter the screen.

Somewhere along the way, you might notice you need to rotate the axis of the projector to get all of the sides square to the screen. It's not something you can usually do right away, rather it's something you will notice as each of the sides begin to look alike in their orientation to the screen edges.

Once you are square, zoom your image back out.

You may find it's impossible to get a perfectly square image to match the screen, with one of the corners being just a little bit out of whack. That's not unusual for a projector, and a good reason they mask the screen with black edges. Get it as close as you can, and then forget it. I figure I have about 1/4" of error on my 92" screen which will simply move from corner to corner, the more I try to adjust.

I hope this helps and you have many happy hours with your HS-51.