Originally posted by Shape
Yeah, I can't record from the cablecard to my PC via firewire, either. :( Perhaps I'll try taking the cablecard out and then trying to record the unscrambled channels.

I would not expect you to since a PC is a non-compliant 5C device.

That's just the thing... if the 5C flags transfer properly from the TV over firewire, then it should be no issue. It works this way for OTA signals... why not for QAM signals then?

Wondering if anyone has tried anything similar to this or has any input to offer:

I have a 52725 located in a corner. I just picked up a surround sound system, and am planning on setting the center speaker on top of the TV. Because of the configuration of the set, I've fabricated a metal shelf big enough for the speaker which will hang on top of the TV, resting on the top edge and partway down the angle in the back. The weight should be fairly well distributed and I'll be placing a liner under it so I don't damage the cabinet.

My main concern is the slight amount of pressure I'll be putting on the back of the set. The weight of the speaker and the shelf combined should be less than 20#, a lot of which will be on the very front.

Has anyone else done something like this? How did it work out?

Well, just spoke to Ray over at consumer relations and he will be sending out the 4.05 firmware update today so I should have it by Monday. He informed me that it is intended to fix issues with slow responding remote commands and other lockups that may occur. I asked him about recording from cablecard to the DVCR, and he said it should work as long as the flags and everything is set up correctly. I don't know if this is a Comcast issue or not.... it doesn't help that I get conflicting info from everyone I ask...

Originally posted by tbone526
. . . I've fabricated a metal shelf big enough for the speaker which will hang on top of the TV, resting on the top edge and partway down the angle in the back. The weight should be fairly well distributed and I'll be placing a liner under it so I don't damage the cabinet. . .

Has anyone else done something like this? How did it work out?


I made one, not quite so fancy, out of the styrofoam packing that came in the tv box. Here's the post:

Speaker stand post. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&postid=4474512#post4474512)

It has worked out great. My center channel is angled slightly downward, so the weight rests mostly on the top of the tv. It is a Boston Acoustics CRC, which weighs much less than 20 lbs.

Originally posted by tbone526
Wondering if anyone has tried anything similar to this or has any input to offer:

I have a 52725 located in a corner. I just picked up a surround sound system, and am planning on setting the center speaker on top of the TV. Because of the configuration of the set, I've fabricated a metal shelf big enough for the speaker which will hang on top of the TV, resting on the top edge and partway down the angle in the back. The weight should be fairly well distributed and I'll be placing a liner under it so I don't damage the cabinet.

My main concern is the slight amount of pressure I'll be putting on the back of the set. The weight of the speaker and the shelf combined should be less than 20#, a lot of which will be on the very front.

Has anyone else done something like this? How did it work out?

One thing to keep in mind is that the main projection mirror is actually attached to the sloped part of the cabinet. You need to make sure that the cabinet there does not flex at all... if it does, the image may appear shifted or distorted depending on how the mirror is affected.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
That's just the thing... if the 5C flags transfer properly from the TV over firewire, then it should be no issue. It works this way for OTA signals... why not for QAM signals then?

Exactly. But when I try to record anything from the QAM tuner (with the cablecard plugged in), I get a 0kb file. Nothing at all is transferred over.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
Well, just spoke to Ray over at consumer relations and he will be sending out the 4.05 firmware update today so I should have it by Monday. He informed me that it is intended to fix issues with slow responding remote commands and other lockups that may occur. I asked him about recording from cablecard to the DVCR, and he said it should work as long as the flags and everything is set up correctly. I don't know if this is a Comcast issue or not.... it doesn't help that I get conflicting info from everyone I ask...

I've had issues with the TV not responding to a press of the device +/- button on the remote when I am watching TV through the ATSC or QAM tuner. Do you think that this is what he is talking about? It doesn't happen all the time. In particular, I think it tends to happen when using PIP.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
One thing to keep in mind is that the main projection mirror is actually attached to the sloped part of the cabinet. You need to make sure that the cabinet there does not flex at all... if it does, the image may appear shifted or distorted depending on how the mirror is affected.

Yep, that's what scares me. I think I'll try this with the shelf that was fabbed, but if it doesn't work, I'll give 2left's solution a try. I don't have the foam from the TV anymore, but enough came with the speakers that I should be able to do something.

Thanks!

Originally posted by Shape
I've had issues with the TV not responding to a press of the device +/- button on the remote when I am watching TV through the ATSC or QAM tuner. Do you think that this is what he is talking about? It doesn't happen all the time. In particular, I think it tends to happen when using PIP.


I'd call them and tell them about this problem... more than likely they will send you the .05 update... might as well have the latest software... :)

Originally posted by Shape
Exactly. But when I try to record anything from the QAM tuner (with the cablecard plugged in), I get a 0kb file. Nothing at all is transferred over.

I have had the same thing happen when I try to record to my PC off cable (unencrypted HD locals) - zero length files. I was using DVHSCap (or CapDVHS - I can't remember the name). I was successful in recording from my OTA antenna feed. It just doesn't seem to work with cable correctly (no cablecard here).

Jeff

Originally posted by Shape
Exactly. But when I try to record anything from the QAM tuner (with the cablecard plugged in), I get a 0kb file. Nothing at all is transferred over.

I don't understand why recording from a cablecard is different than recording from the ATSC tuner. Whether the signal is demodulated from the ATSC tuner or the QAM/cablecard tuner, it should not matter. The result is an MPEG2 video stream with the appropriate 5C copy protection flags. If you have a device on the other end that understands these flags and the MPEG2 stream, it should all work. Either the cablecard is not authorized or set up right in our cases, or the TV is not sending the stream over the firewire connection. In your case since you are using a PC, there may be something, but I am using a 5C compliant DVCR made by the same manufacturer... according to the User manual, all Mitsubishi DVCRs are fully compatible with the TV.

Originally posted by spiff72
I have had the same thing happen when I try to record to my PC off cable (unencrypted HD locals) - zero length files. I was using DVHSCap (or CapDVHS - I can't remember the name). I was successful in recording from my OTA antenna feed. It just doesn't seem to work with cable correctly (no cablecard here).

Jeff

So even the cable connection without the cablecard fails as well? That leads me to believe that the output of the QAM tuner is not being sent over the firewire interface at all.

Originally posted by boristhedog
Just find an input source with a solid white screen (you can use one of the screens available if you cycle through the built-in test patterns). You will see the smudges right away if you have them.

I didn't notice the smudges for about a month. Basically they only show up against a light background, as noted. I think that they have become more noticeable over time. The most notable of mine is almost dead center in the screen, so I can sometimes see the smudge on someone's nose.:D

I have to repeat the question though. How do you get to the built-in test patterns?

Also, I scheduled the tech to come out next week. Do they have to go in through the back of the set, if all they are doing is cleaning the mirror, etc.?

Direct Quote from the User Guide downloaded from Mitsubishi website: Page 18:


Digital cable channels authorized by the CableCARD
will be available on the Firewire® IEEE 1394 network
and can be shared by other products on the network.
Some digital channels or programs may not be copied
or recorded because of copy restriction limits set by
the content owners or copyright holders.

Originally posted by GeeWhiz1


I have to repeat the question though. How do you get to the built-in test patterns?

Also, I scheduled the tech to come out next week. Do they have to go in through the back of the set, if all they are doing is cleaning the mirror, etc.?

MENU - 2 - 4 - 5 - 7 . Press REW/FF to cycle through the menus... press MENU again to exit and readjust the contrast settings upon exit.

The mirrors can be cleaned by removing the main projection screen from the front... rear access is not needed.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
Direct Quote from the User Guide downloaded from Mitsubishi website:

[/B]

I find it annoying that an HD channel that I get unencrypted would not be available without a cablecard (and apparently that doesn't guarantee it, either)...

I am going to see if I get my local channels unencrypted by removing my CC. If I do, I will try to record them to the DVCR... everything I have read in the user manual says that it should work just fine... if it does work for me, then the issue lies with the cablecard authorization most probably... if not, then Mitsubishi is missing something with their firmware or implementation....

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
I am going to see if I get my local channels unencrypted by removing my CC.

You should. They will be completely different channel numbers, though. You will have to scan for cable channels in order to see them at all.

For me, without the cablecard, FOX was 102-1. The cablecard renamed the channel to something like 784.

Do some searching around the channel space. I found some very odd things, like CBS-HD were available. Why is CBS odd? Well, Charter doesn't carry CBS, or so they say. They sure are broadcasting it, though. The cablecard won't let you see it, but the QAM tuner will without the cablecard plugged in. The on demand movie channels were unencrypted, too. Can't even see them with the cablecard plugged in. :)

yeah, I think my HD channels are broadcast on numbers 80-90 or something. I'll see what the tuner can pick up... hopefully I do get at least 1 or 2 channels without the CC... I have sent Mitsubishi an e-mail about this. I'll call Comcast up as well to see if they need to authorize something to get this to work. I hate calling Comcast up though since the chances of getting anyone that is knowledgable is fairly low :(

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
I am going to see if I get my local channels unencrypted by removing my CC. If I do, I will try to record them to the DVCR... everything I have read in the user manual says that it should work just fine... if it does work for me, then the issue lies with the cablecard authorization most probably... if not, then Mitsubishi is missing something with their firmware or implementation....

I currently have D*, so I haven't had to mess with a cablecard, but I'm considering switching to Comcast to get HD DVR capability without having to shell out all the money for an HR10-250.

My question is this: since there are two coax inputs, can you simply use a splitter to set them up independently, with the cablecard controlling one, but the TV doing it's own channel scan for the other?

Yes you can do that... ANT-1 will be used for the cablecard/encrypted channel access while ANT-2 can be used for unencrypted channel access.

Originally posted by Shape
You should. They will be completely different channel numbers, though. You will have to scan for cable channels in order to see them at all.

For me, without the cablecard, FOX was 102-1. The cablecard renamed the channel to something like 784.

Do some searching around the channel space. I found some very odd things, like CBS-HD were available. Why is CBS odd? Well, Charter doesn't carry CBS, or so they say. They sure are broadcasting it, though. The cablecard won't let you see it, but the QAM tuner will without the cablecard plugged in. The on demand movie channels were unencrypted, too. Can't even see them with the cablecard plugged in. :)

That is very interesting. I am surprised that adding a cablecard would "knock out" the CBS feed. Maybe they carry it just so they can transport it to someone else? Or maybe it is brand new and the Cablecard doesn't know it is there yet?

Anyway, I find it interesting that for you the channel appears in the 102 range, just like my Charter Cable service. I also see some oddities on mine - there are about 10-15 digital channels that show up in my guide screen on the cable input that only show up intermittently. I suspect that they are PPV (or maybe video on demand) channels. If I surf through them, I usually can find a movie, but when they aren't showing a movie, it is a small window in the upper right of the screen shoing previews. The really funny thing I stumbled on the other day was a movie of the adult variety, and it was actually fast forwarding through the boring parts and getting straight to the good parts. I had to assume that someone in my neighborhood was watching and I was able to piggyback on their viewing...

I wonder when they will figure all this out at Charter?!

Big Al wrote:
>>>>-The biggest outstanding issue that I'm aware of is the Brightspot issue. Some folks have a football sized brightspot on their screen that shows up in black or very dark scenes. I haven't heard of a resolution yet. I have a slight brightspot, it isn't noticeable to me while watching shows so I don't worry about it. Some people have a bigger problem than others. Work with a store and salesman that you think will be responsive in case this is a problem on your sets. I think this was a bad run of sets about a month or two into production but just to be safe ask about the stores return policy.<<<<

I was just wondering if being a bad run of sets was speculation or how much merit there was to it. I'm currenlty working with the Tweeter rapid response unit, and if I can get a replacement set sent out maybe I can specify a man. date it needs to be after. My current set is a November unit, and the bright spot issue sucks! Unbelievable that Mits would leave a certain pocket of customers hung out to dry while all others would have a set with no defects based on when you bought it.

Originally posted by spiff72
That is very interesting. I am surprised that adding a cablecard would "knock out" the CBS feed. Maybe they carry it just so they can transport it to someone else? Or maybe it is brand new and the Cablecard doesn't know it is there yet?

Anyway, I find it interesting that for you the channel appears in the 102 range, just like my Charter Cable service. I also see some oddities on mine - there are about 10-15 digital channels that show up in my guide screen on the cable input that only show up intermittently. I suspect that they are PPV (or maybe video on demand) channels. If I surf through them, I usually can find a movie, but when they aren't showing a movie, it is a small window in the upper right of the screen shoing previews. The really funny thing I stumbled on the other day was a movie of the adult variety, and it was actually fast forwarding through the boring parts and getting straight to the good parts. I had to assume that someone in my neighborhood was watching and I was able to piggyback on their viewing...


That is exactly what I saw, too! Probably the same content, too. ;)

For me, 110, 111, 112, 113, and 114 channels all had on demand programming on them. During the week, only 110 was active, but on the weekends, the rest of them had programming on them. I suspect that the mini-window of programming you see when nobody is watching anything on that channel is supposed to be surrounded by a cable box generated graphic. I spent about a week without the cablecard, waiting for the .04 upgrade.

I called about CBS, and even mentioned I could see it without the cablecard plugged in. They said "well that is odd. We don't offer CBS." I asked if they were going to be offering it soon, and they said that they were in talks with a lot of different channels and hope to offer them in the future. Standard answer. I'm glad my antenna works. ;)

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
MENU - 2 - 4 - 5 - 7 . Press REW/FF to cycle through the menus... press MENU again to exit and readjust the contrast settings upon exit.

The mirrors can be cleaned by removing the main projection screen from the front... rear access is not needed.

Thanks for the quick response. I'll play with that later today.

Hopefully, it's only the mirrors because I really don't want to move the set. They guy scheduling the visit had a script and assumed that I could just move it before they got here. I pointed out that it was too bulky and heavy to move easily by myself. Suddenly, it wasn't a problem. :rolleyes:

Count me in as another 52725 owner who is getting the same problems recording via firewire, nothing but 0-byte files. I'm using a cablecard from Comcast and all I'm trying to do is record HD locals.

Granted, I'm using the notorious Firebus software to try this.

But I have to think that because so many people across the country are getting the same results on different cable systems and different software, that the problem lies within the common links: either the Cablecard standard or the TV.

OK, I split my cable signal and sent the other end into the ANT-2 coax input. I scanned for channels and it went ahead and found all the analog stations as well as all local digital broadcasts and the music channels. No funny on-demand stuff though :( ... hehehe...

I started up a recording on the DVCR and same results... a copy protection error on the DVCR. So basically, the cablecard is not the culprit here (yet). There is a problem taking the QAM tuners signal and sending it over firewire. I was trying to record a local news broadcast. Unless the cable company is flagging everything with a 'no-copy' flag, this should work just fine... problem is that without a cablecard, I can't check any access settings like the CCI... I don't know what to do now. I have sent Mitsubishi an email and may try contacting Comcast regarding this. According to the user manual this should work. Everything in there indicates that it should. OTA works fine so this should be no different. I have Comcast and two other uses here have Charter... two different cable systems altogether. The one common thing is that we all get similar results.

Great balls of fire-got my $300 Mitsubishi rebate for my November purchase of a 52725. It took forever but they delivered! Thanks to everyone who made the offer available by adding the form to web sites like this. This offer was pulled by Mitsu after only a few days for November sales, but to their credit they honored those who managed to get the form from any source and filed the paperwork.

Originally posted by glenns1939
Great balls of fire-got my $300 Mitsubishi rebate for my November purchase of a 52725. It took forever but they delivered! Thanks to everyone who made the offer available by adding the form to web sites like this. This offer was pulled by Mitsu after only a few days for November sales, but to their credit they honored those who managed to get the form from any source and filed the paperwork.

Ditto here. I actually got my coupon off the Mits website when it was up, but thanks to everyone here for the info and support. Kudos to Mits.

Has anyone had a problem with very bad "tiling" (cable guy's word for the problem) when using the cable card to watch digital and HD content? I have Brighthouse in Pinellas county Florida and will post on the board too but was wondering if anyone had problems with the cable card on the '725' series and what might have been done to alleviate it. I had already upgraded to 4.05 on the firmware before the install and we tried two different cards with the same bad results on the picture. We tested the signal and there was no problems with that. Thanks for any help...

Joe

Has anyone had a problem with very bad "tiling"

Happens to me occasionally, but only on Starz & Cinimax. I've always thought it was a signal issue, because I can see the signal level drop from the Service Menu.

I got it through Tweeter for just over $50. Took about 2 weeks to come in.

No screw removal at all. The new piece comes in a well built box, with instructions included. I was a little nervous bending the original screen cover for removal, and also the new trim piece for installation. But once it "clicks" in place and you feel a great deal of relief.

I LOVE the new picture on my WD-52525 !

I have since decreased the brightness down to 33 from 41, and I have increased the contrast from 27 to 38ish.

Now I can open my window blinds and have no coimplaints at all. :)


I also like the matte-finish of the trim piece. No more of the shiny polished plastic to distract your eyes.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
MENU - 2 - 4 - 5 - 7 . Press REW/FF to cycle through the menus... press MENU again to exit and readjust the contrast settings upon exit.

The mirrors can be cleaned by removing the main projection screen from the front... rear access is not needed.

So is cleaning the mirrors something a novice can do?
I have some 'blotches' that are probably from dust from the factory and would like clean my mirrors.

I am looking at a Samsung 61" and a Mits WD62725.
The Mits seems to have a real Wow factor, sharp bright and clear. However, I can't find any reviews and the salesman mentioned a fan noise.
Any comments on this set would be appreciated.
How loud is this fan, if it is loud is there a way to muffle it ?

Any reviews out there ?
How does it compare to the 61" Samsung (HLP6163W and Sony KDF60WF655 ?

I can get either for the same price.

I have the 52725. However I think that those looking at the 65" models are making the same PQ comparisons that we 52" owners have made. You either prefer the PQ of the Mits or that of the Sammy. In my view they are quite different and it is hard to imagine liking both equally.

Given the choice that I made, it should be clear which I preferred. I will say that the pedestal Sammy was interesting. It was the only one that I might have at least considered if I could have dealt with the pedestal. However even the pedestal Sammy did not impress me as much as the Mits did.

I know we say this a good deal here but you really do have to see for yourself. Although store set ups are never the best you should be able to see both in the same store. PQ is a very subjective order of measure and I will never question the guy that says he likes the Sammy better.

The Samsung doesn't include a HD tuner. It also uses the inferior HD3 DLP chip. I wouldn't buy a TV with an HD3 chip. I did buy a TV with the HD2+, though. :)

Is there any way to get a signal strength meter display for the antenna input?

Originally posted by Shape
Is there any way to get a signal strength meter display for the antenna input?

It isn't a meter, but MENU - 2 - 4 - 7 - 0 will give you a digital signal strength for digital channels via an antenna.

I'm guessing it goes up to 10? :)

I've done a search on this thread for similar problems, but haven't found a solution. I just bought a Pioneer 1014 and hooked it up to my DVD player via digital audio coax, to my D* TiVo via digital optical audio, and to the Mits 52725 (firmware .02) through digital audio coax and through analog output on Monitor 2. DVD and D* sound come through the receiver great, but I get nothing from the Mits when tuned in to digital channels. The display on the receiver flashes like it's trying to decode a digital signal, but nothing comes out.:(

I hooked the Mits to the AVR via the input the DVD player was assigned to, still nothing (tells me the problem is the Mits or the cable).

I hooked the DVD player to the AVR via the input the Mits was assigned to, it worked perfectly (tells me the problem ISN'T the AVR).

I used the cable from the DVD player to the output on the Mits, still nothing (tells me the problem isn't the cable).

With the receiver set to Analog, I get the sound from the Mits. With it set to Digital, I get nothing. With it set to Auto, it seems to be detecting a digital signal and shows Dolby in the display, so it ignores the analog, but still doesn't produce any sound.

I think I've tried about every combination to isolate the problem, and it looks to me like it's the Mits not sending a proper signal via digital audio, so I'll be calling for service on Monday, but I'd hate to have them tell me it's a problem with the receiver.

Has anyone had a problem like this resolved with firmware? Since I don't have bright spot or other major issues, I don't want to exchange the set.

I posted a few months back about a vertical line appearing about 1/3 of the way across from the left. The only response I got was a perceived possible "computer Glitch".

Since that time, I'm noticing it more and more. During the super bowl one of the commercials was truly f'd up. the left 1/3 was almost a full second behind the right 2/3 of the pic. It lasted for the entire commercial. I jumped back to replay the commercial and it was fine.

Has anyone else seen other explanations or remedies for this problem? I haven't had a chance to call Mits yet.

Originally posted by jimrimback

Since that time, I'm noticing it more and more. During the super bowl one of the commercials was truly f'd up. the left 1/3 was almost a full second behind the right 2/3 of the pic. It lasted for the entire commercial. I jumped back to replay the commercial and it was fine.


That was the HD Constantine commercial. As far as I know, everyone saw it that way. Check out the superbowl commercial thread in the HD programming forum.

I don't think your TV (or mine) was responsible for that.

Originally posted by jimrimback
I posted a few months back about a vertical line appearing about 1/3 of the way across from the left. The only response I got was a perceived possible "computer Glitch".

Since that time, I'm noticing it more and more. During the super bowl one of the commercials was truly f'd up. the left 1/3 was almost a full second behind the right 2/3 of the pic. It lasted for the entire commercial. I jumped back to replay the commercial and it was fine.

Has anyone else seen other explanations or remedies for this problem? I haven't had a chance to call Mits yet.

That is an interesting problem!
A friend returned a 52525 because of small white flashes occurring only in the right and left 1/3 of the screen. Maybe the picture gets memory mapped and these problems are just mis-functioning video ram.
Computers...., in a short 20 years they have become entangled into many areas of our lives. What would we do without them!

No opinions on if the mirrors can be cleaned by a non-tech.


Originally posted by paudemge
So is cleaning the mirrors something a novice can do?
I have some 'blotches' that are probably from dust from the factory and would like clean my mirrors.

Originally posted by tbone526
I think I've tried about every combination to isolate the problem, and it looks to me like it's the Mits not sending a proper signal via digital audio, so I'll be calling for service on Monday, but I'd hate to have them tell me it's a problem with the receiver. Complements to you on your troubleshooting skills. You've gone at this methodically. Here is what I believe your problem is...

Many people assume that tuning to a digital channel will result in Dolby Digital audio. This is not the case. A digital channel can have either DD or stereo signals. In some rare cases, a digital channel will generate MPEG-1 based audio.

The Mits will only generate a digital audio stream from the coax output if the source material is truly in Dolby Digital format. If the source material is not dolby digital, the TV will only output audio on the monitor-out analog Left/Right. It would have been great if they were to just switch it to stereo PCM on the digital output, but they don't. The fact that the Mits will switch it's audio output to a different set of cables depending on the type of source material can present a problem for some receivers. That is why the Mits owners manual makes some statements about your AVR knowing how to "autoswitch" from digital to analog input, when on the same "input device". Most receivers now have multiple input connections for each "input device". You can have optical, coax, or analog inputs for any given input device. Here are the relevant sections from the Mits owners guide that explain it better than I can.

Page 14:
12. Digital Audio Output
This output will automatically send Dolby Digital audio from digital channels and IEEE 1394 devices to a digital Audio/Video receiver. Connect this output to the A/V receivers coaxial digital audio input. The output will automatically turn off when viewing an analog channel or device. Use Monitor Output Audio 2 to send analog sound to your A/V receiver. Some digital cable channels send MPEG-1 digital audio instead of Dolby Digital, however, not all A/V receivers can decode MPEG-1 digital audio. This can cause the A/V receivers to produce a loud noise that can damage speakers. For this reason, the TV will automatically turn off the digital audio output when tuned to a channel or device that has MPEG-1 digital audio and send it to the A/V receiver as analog left and right audio from Monitor Output.

Page 22:
Check A/V receivers Owners Guide for information concerning the use of the digital input and switching between the digital sound and analog stereo sound from the TV.

Originally posted by tbone526

I think I've tried about every combination to isolate the problem, and it looks to me like it's the Mits not sending a proper signal via digital audio, so I'll be calling for service on Monday, but I'd hate to have them tell me it's a problem with the receiver.

Has anyone had a problem like this resolved with firmware? Since I don't have bright spot or other major issues, I don't want to exchange the set.

I've seen this mentioned before, and it is a problem with the Mits. Seems it outputs something on the digital out, even though the manual claims that output is turned off when it's not DD. If you unhook the digital cable, you'll note your AVR switches to the analog in (think you've already done this). This proves that there's something on the digital output, and the receiver is trying to decode it. Mits should fix this so that there is absolutely nothing on the dig out, when there isn't supposed to be.

I don't think it's something a service call will fix, but he may bring equipment that shows something on the digital output (whether it's a 'mute' signal, or a clock pulse or something). Seriously doubt any usefulness, and they may insist on having to take it into the shop for 'examination'. You may be better off dealing with Mits tech directly, and see what they have to say.

I've yet to hook up my Mits to my receiver just because of this. When they make it function properly, I'll hook it all up!

How loud is this fan, if it is loud is there a way to muffle it ?

you may want to search this thread for "fan noise" as this was discussed to some extent earlier. In short, none of us with cheap SPL meters could detect the noise, meaning it is less than 50 dBA (and dBC for that matter) near the ront of the TV. It seems that people who put the TV in an entertainment center cannot hear the fan. Mine is is a corner and the fan is noticeable but improved when I bought a pile of pillows and jammed them in around the sides of the TV. The fan noise does not bother me now although it did when new. For a serious audiophile looking for a studio reference quality system I think the noise levels I have would be a problem but it appears most people are OK with it.

Originally posted by August West
you may want to search this thread for "fan noise" as this was discussed to some extent earlier. In short, none of us with cheap SPL meters could detect the noise, meaning it is less than 50 dBA (and dBC for that matter) near the ront of the TV. It seems that people who put the TV in an entertainment center cannot hear the fan. Mine is is a corner and the fan is noticeable but improved when I bought a pile of pillows and jammed them in around the sides of the TV. The fan noise does not bother me now although it did when new. For a serious audiophile looking for a studio reference quality system I think the noise levels I have would be a problem but it appears most people are OK with it.

I don't know and perhaps I say this because the fan noise doesn't bother me, but putting pillows around the vents for the fans seems like a bad idea to me. Presumably the fans are there to cool things and it seems to me the pillows would restrict the airflow pretty significantly. I'd be worried about doing some heat damage to the set.

I believe he's inferring that the pillows were placed behind the set to deaden the noise from the back, not necessarily up against the vents. Mine is also in a corner with plain walls, so the fan is noticeable if the TV is at very low volume. I've wondered if maybe placing curtains around the back, would be effective, low enough to be out of view, but big enough to deaden some of the sound reflected from the fan.

Thanks to all for the digital audio responses. The station I was trying to tune in to was PBS via OTA antenna. PBS almost always broadcasts some type of show on the digital side in HD to take advantage of the capabilities, so I have to assume that they were putting out digital audio to go with it.

At any rate, I'll still call my dealer again, maybe they'll come out for a call to see if they can diagnose something else or confirm my suspicions that it's the digital audio. Fortunately the place where I got the set is a specialty shop, authorized Mits dealer, and only about 1 mile from my house.

BTW...I posted a little while back about fabricating a center channel speaker shelf. I'm very happy to say it's working well. I had a friend at a body shop take some light sheet metal, bend a lip in the front to hang just over the top edge of the TV, straight back 10" to support the speaker, then down to the back of the set, then flare out along the downward slope. I put a very thin rubber strip under the top part to protect the set, and carpet padding under the back part to distribute the weight. Works great and is painted gloss black so it blends in nicely.

So from my experimentation with the firewire output and my DVCR, I think I can conclude that there seems to be a problem with the way the TV outputs the MPEG2 stream from the QAM tuner. It is still a possibility that the cable company is is flagging the channel incorrectly, but I find that hard to believe since several of us have the same issue on different cable systems. I think that the demodulated stream from the QAM tuner is not being sent over firewire as it should be. My cable company broadcasts local HD channels unencrypted and I am able to pick them up without the cable card. I should be able to copy those, but can't... I think we need to press Mitsubishi to fix this if it is indeed a problem with the TV. I will try to contact my cable company about their flag settings... can anyone else with the same issue do the same?

I don't know and perhaps I say this because the fan noise doesn't bother me, but putting pillows around the vents for the fans seems like a bad idea to me. Presumably the fans are there to cool things and it seems to me the pillows would restrict the airflow pretty significantly. I'd be worried about doing some heat damage to the set.

The vents and fan discharge are clear. What I have set up is certainly no more restrictive than what happens when putting this set in an entertainment center which really restricts the flow.

Happy :D to report that I received my $300.00 rebate from Mitsubishi for my 62" 725 series! Don't give up you guys!

Originally posted by BenK
For people with the 62725 what are your viewing distances? Would 10' be too close for this set?

I think it would be. I'm about 10.5' from my 52725 and I would prefer to be another foot or so back.

Originally posted by AtlantaGatorLee
I think it would be. I'm about 10.5' from my 52725 and I would prefer to be another foot or so back.

I sit about 16-17' from my 62525.

Viewing distance is mainly personal preference beyond a certain point. I sit 11.5' away from my 52725... for me that seems perfect. At 62", I think I would like to sit another 3 feet back from that at around 14'. I think the minimum distance for a 52" would probably be at least 8' and 10.5' for the 62". Beyond that, it is personal perference.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
Viewing distance is mainly personal preference beyond a certain point. I sit 11.5' away from my 52725... for me that seems perfect. At 62", I think I would like to sit another 3 feet back from that at around 14'. I think the minimum distance for a 52" would probably be at least 8' and 10.5' for the 62". Beyond that, it is personal perference.

I would agree. Keep in mind that those prone to so-called "Rainbow-effect" on DLP sets seem to notice it more when there are rapid eye movements. By keeping the field-of-vision smaller (that is in ratio of the size of the screen to the distance it is viewed) you have less rapid eye movements and blinks as the eye tracks across the screen.

The more I blink, and the more I move my eyes across the screen, the more I see rainbow effect. (being tired makes it worse- so does high contrast content like space battles and mostly dark scenes with very bright elements). Despite anecdotal evidence, the backlighting (or forlighting) has no positive or negative effect on Rainbows.

In my Den, the "sweet" spot for viewing is about 10 feet back from the 52725. Of course, this is anectdotal experience.

Last bit on rainbows- they don't really bother me- have had the set since October. Initially I was troubled- i thought it would drive me insane, but I don't get headaches or eye fatigue from them- and I am prone to headaches in general. I don't see them all that often, anyway (yes- I am very sensative to them- I even see them on the 3-chip DLP systems used in the movie theaters).

Star Wars IV: A New Hope seems to have a lot of enhanced contrast that brings them on- particularly in the darker interior shots (like the darker parts of the blockade runner, ben's home, Mos Esley Cantina, and parts of the Death Star). Adjusting the picture setting on my Sony DVD player reduces this this.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
Viewing distance is mainly personal preference beyond a certain point. I sit 11.5' away from my 52725... for me that seems perfect. At 62", I think I would like to sit another 3 feet back from that at around 14'. I think the minimum distance for a 52" would probably be at least 8' and 10.5' for the 62". Beyond that, it is personal perference.

I agree...I sit 12' from by 62725 now and it looks very good; and it looks even better when I am at my computer, around 3' further back. I am moving soon (I finally decided to grow up and buy a house), however, and will be closer...~10 ft. I think it will still be fine, especially with digital content. The analog will probably suffer some, though....here's hoping the digital simulcast comes through quickly from Comcast! If it is too bad I'll probably have to sell it and get something a little smaller. I'm sure I'll take a pretty good financial hit if that proves to be necessary. :(

-Randy

Well, I finally ordered a new DVD player for my 52725... it's about time to retire my 6-year old sharp DVD player... hehehe... It served it's purpose well and actually looked surprisingly decent on this set...

Anyhow, I went ahead and purchased a Pioneer Elite DV-59avi ... got a pretty good price on it as well. I should have it later this week. Good thing about it is that it will output 480i over HDMI so I can do some A/B testing between the players upscaling and the TVs as well over HDMI. Now I just need a new reciever and speakers to round out everything... :)

Originally posted by IFLYSWA
Nope. I have noticed a slight green halo effect around people on poor quality (and primarily analog) signals, and I am semi-cursed with seeing rainbows when looking away from the screen, but that's it.

-Randy

Out of the box, every Mitsu has the same problem of green tint in dark scenes and the green halo effect. It is easily fixed by going into the color and picture set up. The settings have been posted in here several times. When I get home from work latet tonight, I'll repost them.

Since I changed the settings, I've never seen the green halo.

Originally posted by BenK
For people with the 62725 what are your viewing distances? Would 10' be too close for this set?

It depends on your source. For HD and DVD's, 10' is the closest I like to be, and I am often at that distance. If really fills up my field of vision nicely. For SD content, about 14' or more is better.

Originally posted by DCinDC
I don't notice a green tint on my 725 and hadn't heard of any firmware fixes for this problem. My recollection of the 04 fix was that it addressed cablecard issues.

UMR, I belive posted these settings last year. Seems to work well. Gets rid of the green tint and the green shadows in sd
Try the following perfect color settings:
Magenta 53
Red 43
Yellow 43
Green 35
Cayan 31
Blue 44

those settings in combination with these video settings worked really well for me. maybe you have your color temp set to high?

Sharpness - 0
Color - 31
Tint - 31
Brightness - 45
Contrast - 41
DefinEdge Off
Video Noise - Reduction
Color Temperature - Low

Originally posted by 2left
It depends on your source. For HD and DVD's, 10' is the closest I like to be, and I am often at that distance. If really fills up my field of vision nicely. For SD content, about 14' or more is better.

Thanks for the responses. I don't watch any SD content. Only HD and DVD's so I'll probably be ok. I'm getting it Wednesday so I guess I still have some time to reconsider keeping the 55XS955.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp

Anyhow, I went ahead and purchased a Pioneer Elite DV-59avi ... got a pretty good price on it as well. I should have it later this week. Good thing about it is that it will output 480i over HDMI so I can do some A/B testing between the players upscaling and the TVs as well over HDMI. Now I just need a new reciever and speakers to round out everything... :)

I've had my eye on that DVD player for a few weeks now. Instead of buying it, I got a new digital camera. :rolleyes: But for the near $900 pricetag, it should be able to burn DVDs too! :) If I found a decent DVD player that had a 100 disc carrosel, I'd gladly pay a G-note for it.

Let us know how the upscaling comparisons go.

Originally posted by BB_Mike
If I found a decent DVD player that had a 100 disc carrosel, I'd gladly pay a G-note for it.


Better to just build a PC with a bunch of hard drives and start ripping your DVDs to the drives. It will be cheaper, and won't be a one-trick pony. And you can be sure that the video quality will be good.

Originally posted by BB_Mike
I've had my eye on that DVD player for a few weeks now. Instead of buying it, I got a new digital camera. :rolleyes: But for the near $900 pricetag, it should be able to burn DVDs too! :) If I found a decent DVD player that had a 100 disc carrosel, I'd gladly pay a G-note for it.

Let us know how the upscaling comparisons go.

Aside from the video, the audio features of the unit are pretty impressive as well... It would be hard to justify the price solely based on its video capabilities, but given the great CD/DVD-A/SACD and iLink functionality, it's not a bad deal... plus several hundred cheaper than the nearly identical Denon 3910. Anyhow, I figure I haven't bought a DVD player in several years and it's ok to go all out every now and then :D :D Hope you enjoy your digital camera... I need a new one of those as well :)

I'll be sure to post my findings regarding the player's upscaling over HDMI as compared to the TVs and the performance over component...

Almost forgot...

I received the .05 firmware update from Mitsubishi yesterday. It's hard to say if anything changed. I did find that the tuner is a little bit snappier and that it tunes the music channels from my digital cable in much faster. Before it used to take several seconds for the music to play while it is pretty much immediate now. I am using a Motorola cablecard and comcast digital cable. I think I also now have the latest cablecard from Motorola as well and that seemed to have helped in making the tuner faster as well. Now if I could only get the thing to record cable to the DVCR, I'd be set.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
Almost forgot...

I received the .05 firmware update from Mitsubishi yesterday. It's hard to say if anything changed. I did find that the tuner is a little bit snappier and that it tunes the music channels from my digital cable in much faster. Before it used to take several seconds for the music to play while it is pretty much immediate now. I am using a Motorola cablecard and comcast digital cable. I think I also now have the latest cablecard from Motorola as well and that seemed to have helped in making the tuner faster as well. Now if I could only get the thing to record cable to the DVCR, I'd be set.

I just got my .05 firmware too (I called Mits and complained about the slow response of the remote during some operations), and I have found that the installation of my last 2 upgrades didn't work like the first one I did. (I have a 62525).

I unplugged the TV, put the CF card in, plugged the TV back in and waited. The CF LED would flicker as the TV's Green LED would blink, and after about a minute and a half, the CF light was just on solid, and the TV LED turned off. The TV didn't turn on after the process. I don't know if I didn't give it enough time, but I tried tunring on the TV with the remote after that happened, and the TV's green LED came on, but no "click" as the TV would normally start up. Basically the Green light just came on. I then turned off the TV with the remote (and thus turned out the green LED), pulled out the CF card, and reset it with the reset button. Then the TV turned on normally.

This exact same sequence happened on both of the last 2 upgrades. The TV setup page in the menu shows the new firmware version, and I haven't seen any ill effects, but I thought the TV was supposed to turn itself on after the upgrade.

I also noticed a new feature of the firmware (I think): when I switched to my PC (VGA) input, the TV displayed a message saying that "automatic positioning of the PC image was complete". I don't think that is something I ever saw before.

I haven't had a chance to see if the remote still locks up periodcally...

The only big difference I've seen with the last two updates is that I don't get a chance to see the 'software update complete' message that you are supposed to... it instead goes straight to a cablecard initialization message and changes to channel 1. I also have noted that the TV is slower to automatically turn on with this last update and the .04 update. The green LED light blinks for a minute or two as the card reader light flickers and then the flickering stops and then later the TV LED goes out... after that it takes nearly 30 seconds or a minute for the TV to turn on by itself. It eventually did though. I think maybe you needed to wait slightly longer for it to turn on on its own.

The lockups I had are now completely gone and I think my new cablecard is more a cause of that than anything else. I no longer get the "Please reset remote to netcommand" message or the slow remote response anymore since the cablecard was swapped out.

Originally posted by dwarren2
UMR, I belive posted these settings last year. Seems to work well. Gets rid of the green tint and the green shadows in sd
Try the following perfect color settings:
Magenta 53
Red 43
Yellow 43
Green 35
Cayan 31
Blue 44

those settings in combination with these video settings worked really well for me. maybe you have your color temp set to high?

Sharpness - 0
Color - 31
Tint - 31
Brightness - 45
Contrast - 41
DefinEdge Off
Video Noise - Reduction
Color Temperature - Low

How do I adjust my magenta yellow cyan...etc?????????

You will definitely not want to use these setting for it will make your picture rather blurry. The sharpness should not be "0". To adjust your colors go to TV menu, then setup then go to perfect color to adjust.

Originally posted by irishrulze
You will definitely not want to use these setting for it will make your picture rather blurry. The sharpness should not be "0". To adjust your colors go to TV menu, then setup then go to perfect color to adjust.

Not in my experience. I believe these were originally posted by an ISF calibrator, so I think they are pretty solid. That said, these settings are somewhat subjective, so to each their own. At the very least, one could probably use these settings as a good starting point in fine tuning things to their own taste....

-Randy

Originally posted by IFLYSWA
Not in my experience. I believe these were originally posted by an ISF calibrator, so I think they are pretty solid. That said, these settings are somewhat subjective, so to each their own. At the very least, one could probably use these settings as a good starting point in fine tuning things to their own taste....

-Randy

I tried these settings a while back and was not happy with the results. While I have not had my set ISF calibrated, it is clear that this made my 52725 look way off.

I am not implying that the settings are wrong- I am stating that they are wrong for my set, my room, my lighting, and my eye (of the beholder).

What I do feel is that this shows that there is enugh varience in the manufactured sets that, for some, these settings will work and, for others, they will not.

If you are not interested in the cost of an ISF calibration, AVIA or DVE might do the trick for you. You could always get the CMYKRGB collors by using a panatone sheet from any art-supply... but I admit, this is more detail oriented than I care to be with it- I did my 52725 by eyeball and used AVIA, DVE, and THX Opt. to get it "right" after that.

Something I did notice-

The per input settings between my Dish 510, Dish 811, Sony DVD Player, XBox and the built-in tuner varied a bit.

I found the Dish 510, the Sony DVD, and the XBox to be similar, but the Dish 811 via DVI to HDMI/Monlink and the built-in tuner had very different settings.

Originally posted by GizmoSprocket
I am not implying that the settings are wrong- I am stating that they are wrong for my set, my room, my lighting, and my eye (of the beholder).


Exactly my point. You wouldn't want to blindly think these (or any other) posted settings will be best for you, but you wouldn't want to tell someone that they won't work, either. I'd love to do go the ISF route someday, but it isn't going to happen anytime soon.

It was kind of funny...I had adjusted the settings on one input to the settings posted here, then fine tuned a bit. On my second antenna input, I left them the way they were out of the box. A friend was over and I had him compare the two inputs...at first he liked the second one, since they jump out at you. Then I had him look closer...you could see the mosquito noise on the football field, the colors were vibrant but overpowering, etc. Once he looked closer, he had to admit the first input had a much more natural picture....and it was certainly easier to watch!

There are probably *at least* 4 different lists of settings posted in this thread...since it can be a bit daunting to start from scratch I would suggest people search for those posts, try each one to find the one that looks best to you to use as a starting point, then do some fine tuning from there. That is, of course, if you aren't using Avia, DVE, or professional calibration!

YMMV!
-Randy

Originally posted by dwarren2
UMR, I belive posted these settings last year. Seems to work well. Gets rid of the green tint and the green shadows in sd
Try the following perfect color settings:
Magenta 53
Red 43
Yellow 43
Green 35
Cayan 31
Blue 44

those settings in combination with these video settings worked really well for me. maybe you have your color temp set to high?

Sharpness - 0
Color - 31
Tint - 31
Brightness - 45
Contrast - 41
DefinEdge Off
Video Noise - Reduction
Color Temperature - Low

Here is a link to where I originally posted the values.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4474573#post4474573

Originally posted by GizmoSprocket


Something I did notice-

The per input settings between my Dish 510, Dish 811, Sony DVD Player, XBox and the built-in tuner varied a bit.

I found the Dish 510, the Sony DVD, and the XBox to be similar, but the Dish 811 via DVI to HDMI/Monlink and the built-in tuner had very different settings.

Gizmo,

I, too, have a Dish 811 connected to my Mits, and I have to ask a question of you...

Have you compared the connection via the DVI/HDMI to the component video feed from that 811? I have both of mine hooked up simultaneously, so I can switch between the two. I found that the DVI/HDMI connection may have been a bit sharper/more detailed, but it was washed out (as if the brightness/contrast were way out of adjustment).

If you did find this difference, did you successfully adjust it out? If so, can you post your settings? I just want to see if the settings you have look OK next to my component video feed. I posted some side by side pictures that "sort of" showed the difference...they weren't very good because the TV was in PIP side-by-side mode at the time. I will see if I can find them and link that that post.

EDIT: Here is the link:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4486159#post4486159

The picture of the titles side by side seems to show the difference the best (compvshdmi6).

Thanks,
Jeff

Originally posted by IFLYSWA
Exactly my point. You wouldn't want to blindly think these (or any other) posted settings will be best for you, but you wouldn't want to tell someone that they won't work, either. I'd love to do go the ISF route someday, but it isn't going to happen anytime soon.

YMMV!
-Randy

Not trying to say anything is wrong and I don't think these were "professionally" ISF'd. Clearly you can see if you take these settings you most likely will have a very blurry image. There are right and wrong settings IMHO. Also, you should never adjust anything in a totally dark room.

Originally posted by irishrulze
Not trying to say anything is wrong and I don't think these were "professionally" ISF'd. Clearly you can see if you take these settings you most likely will have a very blurry image. There are right and wrong settings IMHO. Also, you should never adjust anything in a totally dark room.

Again, I won't presume to tell someone whether they will find these or any other settings to be blurry. I understand that you found that to be the case with your set under your conditions. That's cool. You might want to refer to the link provided by UMR above this post to his original post to determine the depth and quality of the work done. I believe he is a professional ISF calibrator, but I can't swear to it. Anyway, enjoy whatever settings you choose to use, and if you have a notion to post your settings to help DC out, I'm sure he'd appreciate it!

YMMV!!!!!
-Randy

Originally posted by spiff72
Gizmo,

I, too, have a Dish 811 connected to my Mits, and I have to ask a question of you...

Have you compared the connection via the DVI/HDMI to the component video feed from that 811? I have both of mine hooked up simultaneously, so I can switch between the two. I found that the DVI/HDMI connection may have been a bit sharper/more detailed, but it was washed out (as if the brightness/contrast were way out of adjustment).

If you did find this difference, did you successfully adjust it out? If so, can you post your settings? I just want to see if the settings you have look OK next to my component video feed. I posted some side by side pictures that "sort of" showed the difference...they weren't very good because the TV was in PIP side-by-side mode at the time. I will see if I can find them and link that that post.

EDIT: Here is the link:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4486159#post4486159

The picture of the titles side by side seems to show the difference the best (compvshdmi6).

Thanks,
Jeff

Thanks - I somehow missed you post (I have been monitoring this thread for many months now (both prior to and after my purchase).

I have not done a side-by-side comparison, but I agree that the "washed out effect" is what I saw on the 811 via HDMI. It looks like the brightness is just too "hot."

I was able to make some settings adjustments that I can live with- I did an A/B with CBS-HD from the cable feed and from the 811, and I did some movie comparisons with films on HBO and stuff I owned. I have not gotten to review the HDNet test patterns on Tuesday AMs, but one day I hope to. I understand that the HDNet test patterns are flawed in the geometry area, but are otherwise very good.

I am leaving the office now. If I am online later (and I am likely to be) I will get you my exact settings.

That said- I do notice a quality difference between many of the Dish 811 supplied HD channels.

TNT HD is rubbish- they mess up the formatting for all the commercials. I sent them an e-mail about this and got no response. I just can't watch it.

Discovery HD is sometimes grainy (MPG compression artifact), but as HD goes, one of the best channels on Dish or on my Cable TV link.
HD Net is very similar to Discovery HD- with a very minor red push.
HD Net Movies looks a bit less sharp than some of the others like HDNET, Disc., and HBO/SHO. I suspect a lot of this content is upconveted DVDs (that is 480p in 16x9 and not true HD mastering), but I am just guessing.
ESPN HD is pretty solid- close to Discovery and HDNet.
The Demo Chanel is in the same area as Discovery, so is HBO, SHO, and CBS- with minor color discrepancies between the channels.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
Almost forgot...

I received the .05 firmware update from Mitsubishi yesterday. It's hard to say if anything changed. I did find that the tuner is a little bit snappier and that it tunes the music channels from my digital cable in much faster. Before it used to take several seconds for the music to play while it is pretty much immediate now. I am using a Motorola cablecard and comcast digital cable. I think I also now have the latest cablecard from Motorola as well and that seemed to have helped in making the tuner faster as well. Now if I could only get the thing to record cable to the DVCR, I'd be set.

UMD_Terp: Do you have a 725 or 825? I have a 62725 and just yesterday, a tech and a supervisor both told me that the .04 firmware is the latest version for my tv. I'm having a problem with resets and dropped channels using my cablecard.

Originally posted by 2left
UMD_Terp: Do you have a 725 or 825? I have a 62725 and just yesterday, a tech and a supervisor both told me that the .04 firmware is the latest version for my tv. I'm having a problem with resets and dropped channels using my cablecard.

I have a 52725.... I spoke to someone at the Mitsubishi 1-800 number and they said .04 was the latest as well. Then I called 949-830-8364 and spoke to Ray... he said the .05 had just been released. You should call that number as that is the main consumer relations dept.

So, is there somewhere you can get the firmware downloaded and install it yourself? I have a CF card on a pocket PC and can copy the files over easily.

Originally posted by CADCONV
So, is there somewhere you can get the firmware downloaded and install it yourself? I have a CF card on a pocket PC and can copy the files over easily.

The only way to obtain firmware is to have it sent to you is from Mitsubishi consumer relations...

Ok, just sent them an e-mail. We'll see what happens.

Attached is a picture of my system with the center speaker up on top now on my fabricated shelf. I'm happy to report that there is no distortion of the image as far as I can see. From the front, the shelf is barely visible.

On the picture of the back side, the colored material is carpet padding about 3/8" thick. I've got the back support bent so that it lays along the downslope of the TV, and combined with the padding it distributes the weight evenly. My speaker weighs about 15#, the shelf weighs another 5 or 6.

Hope this helps anyone else looking for a solution for the center channel.

And from the front....

Those pics are making me cry... I've sold the house that I'm in now with a full blown HT setup in the basement. I've p/u the 52725 for the new house but won't have a surround sound system for a while. Coming from a basement setup back to a living room is going to be a big adjustment.

They make my wife cry too. She asked me "did we really need to spend over $6,000 just to watch TV?"

"Yup."

absolutely, but they don't understand. I got my current setup (Elac 207's towers, center, and rear effects) for close to 1/2 off dealer cost for some showfloor samples from CES about 2 years ago. Now, the same setup will cost me a lot more and she's not going for it. Guess I need to find some good inexpensive speakers now as well. Amp will be Denon AVR-3805 unless I can resist buying the AVR-3803 at Tweeters right now for $525.00 :)

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
I have a 52725.... I spoke to someone at the Mitsubishi 1-800 number and they said .04 was the latest as well. Then I called 949-830-8364 and spoke to Ray... he said the .05 had just been released. You should call that number as that is the main consumer relations dept.

Thanks for the information. I just called and my .05 update is on the way. They said it addresses motorolla calblecard and audio receiver compatability issues. Once again, AVS Forum outshines tech support!

did they mail it to you or e-mail? Still haven't heard anything on the e-mail I sent earlier.

I just can't figure out what is going on or why. During the first week (back in Oct w/ ver 03 software) I experienced lock ups / freezes requiring a reset button push and/or power disconnect reset. Re-installing ver 03 didn't help. By end November I had ver 04 installed and all seemed just fine. Now just w/in the last 2 weeks it seems as if I have to do a reset button push almost every other day the first time the TV is turned on after an over night shut down. I do not have a cable card and basically only watch Dishnetwork for SD and OTA for HD. I am totally baffled at this point to identify a true pattern or what changed w/in the last two weeks. I am awaiting a call back from the Mits gurus.

Any suggestions???

You need to call and they will send it to you via UPS priority delivery... there is no other way to get the upgrade...

The new DVD player is here :D :D

I have an HDMI cable on order that I should hopefully get by tomorrow. I can't wait to go home and try it out... I guess I'll check it out through component tonight and see how it looks. :)

For the 62725 is the HDMI input pure digital or is there still some analog conversion going on? I just got this tv delivered today which is waiting for me at home. I already have a Sony 975 upconverting player that I'm anxious to use with it.

Originally posted by GizmoSprocket


SNIP

The Demo Chanel is in the same area as Discovery, so is HBO, SHO, and CBS- with minor color discrepancies between the channels.

Thanks, and I look forward to seeing what your settings are for the Dish 811 input. (No rush though).

If you ever get a chance, I would love to hear your thoughts on the component video output comparison. That is actually the one I watch because of the excessive brightness on the 811's DVI.

Also, do you have the 811 set for 720p or 1080i? I have mine on 1080i, as it seemed to look a bit better to me (and most of the channels carried by Dish are 1080i stations). I occasionally switch it to 720p if I am watching ESPN HD.

Finally, where do you find the demo channel? I don't think I get that one...

Thanks again,
Jeff

Originally posted by BenK
For the 62725 is the HDMI input pure digital or is there still some analog conversion going on? I just got this tv delivered today which is waiting for me at home. I already have a Sony 975 upconverting player that I'm anxious to use with it.

Reading back through this forum (and/or the 2004-2005 Mitsubishi DLP thread), there has been a lot of discussion around this. The consensus was that there are D/A and A/D conversions on the HDMI input.

This doesn't necessarily mean that it is a bad thing. I would just hook it up and see what you think.

Originally posted by BenK
For the 62725 is the HDMI input pure digital or is there still some analog conversion going on? I just got this tv delivered today which is waiting for me at home. I already have a Sony 975 upconverting player that I'm anxious to use with it.

I have the 62725 also and I believe the conclusion is that the Mits does a D/A/D conversion. There are some theads here by folks that say they have read the schematics that suggest this is the case. Has it been 100% proven? I don't think so...but I think most feel 99.9% sure that the Mits is converting.

So the million dollar question is do we get ANY benefit from an upconverting player

If the Mits does not allow us to take advantage of upconversion it makes me cry with my current Denon 5900 and a new 5910 on order (replacing the macroblocking 5900).

Anyone else want to chime in?

Why would a D/A/D conversion keep you from taking advantage of upconversion?

Hell, even the PC RGB analog input gives you a dead-solid 1:1 pixel mapping. I don't see why the HDMI port wouldn't. This isn't like a CRT where colors bleed into adjacent pixels.

Either way, the TV does an absolutely amazing job at upconversion of every signal to 1280x720p on its own. My $40 special Samsung DVD player looks amazing on the TV through the component input.

Even if the TV is doing a conversion to analog, by using a digital output on the DVD player, you are bypassing the D/A conversion that would take place within the player... the conversion in the TV is probably not much of a hinderance at all and if you can feed it a native 720p signal anyways, then the internal scalar doesn't do any additional processing on the signal at all.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
Almost forgot...

I received the .05 firmware update from Mitsubishi yesterday. It's hard to say if anything changed. I did find that the tuner is a little bit snappier and that it tunes the music channels from my digital cable in much faster. Before it used to take several seconds for the music to play while it is pretty much immediate now. I am using a Motorola cablecard and comcast digital cable. I think I also now have the latest cablecard from Motorola as well and that seemed to have helped in making the tuner faster as well. Now if I could only get the thing to record cable to the DVCR, I'd be set.

Hey, UMD_Terp, any updates on this? I'm interested in recording unencrypted HD and want to know if the firmware upgrade is worth the bother.

It was certainly interesting that Mits was conspicuously missing from CES so no one could ask about internal conversions.

Originally posted by spiff72
Thanks, and I look forward to seeing what your settings are for the Dish 811 input. (No rush though).

If you ever get a chance, I would love to hear your thoughts on the component video output comparison. That is actually the one I watch because of the excessive brightness on the 811's DVI.

Also, do you have the 811 set for 720p or 1080i? I have mine on 1080i, as it seemed to look a bit better to me (and most of the channels carried by Dish are 1080i stations). I occasionally switch it to 720p if I am watching ESPN HD.

Finally, where do you find the demo channel? I don't think I get that one...

Thanks again,
Jeff

The Dish HD Demo channel us between HBOHD and ESPNHD. It shows some Dish HD promos, Discovery HD short subjects, and a fishtank in a Colorodo resteraunt in loop.

The 811 is set to 1080i. I found that the Mits did a better job downconverting 1080i to 720p than the Dish 811 did... I wish it could be set per channel or to "use native."

I will try to post my settings later. We are in the middle of our SOX audit at work and the last thing I want to do is fire up a laptop when I get home.

Originally posted by Airblair
Hey, UMD_Terp, any updates on this? I'm interested in recording unencrypted HD and want to know if the firmware upgrade is worth the bother.

I will need to try it again now that the new FW update is installed. I did try from the cablecard and it did not work. I'll try and see if it made any difference with my local digital stations that I get unencrypted...

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
Even if the TV is doing a conversion to analog, by using a digital output on the DVD player, you are bypassing the D/A conversion that would take place within the player... the conversion in the TV is probably not much of a hinderance at all and if you can feed it a native 720p signal anyways, then the internal scalar doesn't do any additional processing on the signal at all.

I'm hoping this is the case because on my recently exchanged (today) Sony 55XS955 the upconverted picture didnt look better than sending it a 480i signal using HDMI. I'm hoping its better all around with DVD's not just upconverted.

Originally posted by TomTx
I just can't figure out what is going on or why. During the first week (back in Oct w/ ver 03 software) I experienced lock ups / freezes requiring a reset button push and/or power disconnect reset. Re-installing ver 03 didn't help. By end November I had ver 04 installed and all seemed just fine. Now just w/in the last 2 weeks it seems as if I have to do a reset button push almost every other day the first time the TV is turned on after an over night shut down. I do not have a cable card and basically only watch Dishnetwork for SD and OTA for HD. I am totally baffled at this point to identify a true pattern or what changed w/in the last two weeks. I am awaiting a call back from the Mits gurus.

Any suggestions???

Sounds similar to my experience. Owned mine for about two months without a hint of trouble (except some squirreliness with digital channel memories). Thought I got lucky and ended up with a good one, because I never got a single lockup. Then out of nowhere, BAM! Seemed like I was getting lockups daily, requiring reset button. After re-scanning for channels, that appears to be cleared up again. I'll see how long it holds till it needs re-scanning.

Originally posted by TomTx
I just can't figure out what is going on or why. During the first week (back in Oct w/ ver 03 software) I experienced lock ups / freezes requiring a reset button push and/or power disconnect reset. Re-installing ver 03 didn't help. By end November I had ver 04 installed and all seemed just fine. Now just w/in the last 2 weeks it seems as if I have to do a reset button push almost every other day the first time the TV is turned on after an over night shut down. I do not have a cable card and basically only watch Dishnetwork for SD and OTA for HD. I am totally baffled at this point to identify a true pattern or what changed w/in the last two weeks. I am awaiting a call back from the Mits gurus.

Any suggestions???

I have a 62525 with ver 3 software. I went several weeks with any problems until a local HD station began to experiment with their PSIP. I began to have to reset the tv after each overnight shutdown. It appeared to the fault of this station because just tuning to this station would result in the slow buildup of colored lines in the picture that resulted in a lockup. I temporarily solved the problem by removing this channel from the scanned list. A few days later I rescanned the locals and have had no problems since.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
This is the thread I am referencing:

http://avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=439889&perpage=40&pagenumber=4

The tools you will need consist of a phillips head screw driver, 10mm wrench, and an allen wrench.

First, bring up the service menu by accessing the TV Menu and keying in 2 - 4 - 5 - 7 in the remote. You should see the contrast change and numbers/letters come up. Press the AUDIO key on the remote until you see "fmt" show up and HPOS as a menu item. Then press the REW/REV button on the remote to access the test pattern. Check to see if the lines are tiltled/skewed. You should be able to see the green line on all sides and a hint of the white line as well. The red line should not be prominent on any side. If you are satisfied with the way things look, then press HOME and readjust the contrast back to what it was and you are done. If not, follow on....

You need to remove the speaker grille and note the access panel that states "NO USER SERVICEABLE PARTS/WARNING". This panel is to the right of the lamp cover panel. There are four screws holding that panel in. Remove the panel with the screwdriver and you will see two brass lock screws and two thumbscrews. Loosen the brass screws a little bit with your 10mm wrench. Then use the allen wrench on the two thumbscrews to adjust the vertical and horizontal keystone. Don't worry about the overall horizontal/vertical positioning of the pattern since that can be adjusted in the service menu later. Be gentle with the adjustments and go slow. A small movement of the screws causes a drastic shift in the picture. Once you have squared the image to your satisfaction, use the UP/DOWN adjustment on the remote to center the image horizontally. Press the VIDEO key to access the VPOS menu and center the image vertically in the same manner. Once you are satisfied, press ENTER and watch the numbers turn red. After they turn back to white, press HOME and readjust your contrast settings. If you press HOME before pressing ENTER, any changes you make to the VPOS and HPOS will be discarded.

One note of WARNING: DO NOT SET VPOS/HPOS TO 0 and PRESS ENTER. YOU WILL LOSE THE IMAGE AND BE UNABLE TO SEE ANY MENUS.


I too noticed some major tilt in my tv while I was cycling through the test patterns in the service menus. I followed your instructions and couldn't get my test pattern to display evenly on the top and bottom. If the top was straight the bottom was still tilted, if the bottom was straight the top would remain tilted. It seemed as though it's impossible to accomplish any perfect alignment.

Originally posted by James_stewart
I too noticed some major tilt in my tv while I was cycling through the test patterns in the service menus. I followed your instructions and couldn't get my test pattern to display evenly on the top and bottom. If the top was straight the bottom was still tilted, if the bottom was straight the top would remain tilted. It seemed as though it's impossible to accomplish any perfect alignment.

sounds like you may need a rotational adjustment on the light engine itself. I'd call up Mitsubishi service center and let them handle it... it is a simple adjustment, but you need to access the rear of the TV and get at the light engine itself.

I've got the Pioneer 59avi hooked up to the TV over component. The picture is great. I can't comment on the upscaling player vs the internal scalar as I don't have my HDMI cable yet, but over component, the player looks great. I did a very rough check using a THX optimizer to get black/white levels right. I watched a few scenes of Star Wars Return of the Jedi and it looked really good. I tried to do comparisons between the TV deinterlacer and the players by turning progressive mode off on the player. The player does a better job it seems in deinterlacing and providing a film-like image, but the TV's deinterlacer is still very good.

Hopefully I will get the HDMI cable tomorrow and maybe I can pick up a calibration disk as well to get everything set up right. More to come later. :)

I've compared the 480i image to an upconverted 720p through HDMI using the Sony 975. The picture looks great with both resolutions. It was slightly better with 720p. No extra noise or artifacts were added so I just went with the 720p. Comparing the component and HDMI inputs at the same resolution the differences were slight also. The HDMI input was a little cleaner. Overall the picture quality is excellent. I'm much happier with it than the Sony 55XS955 I had.

Originally posted by BenK
I've compared the 480i image to an upconverted 720p through HDMI using the Sony 975. The picture looks great with both resolutions. It was slightly better with 720p. No extra noise or artifacts were added so I just went with the 720p. Comparing the component and HDMI inputs at the same resolution the differences were slight also. The HDMI input was a little cleaner. Overall the picture quality is excellent. I'm much happier with it than the Sony 55XS955 I had.

My two HDTV choices were down to the Mits and the very Sony model you seem to have switched from. Mind if I ask what you find superior in the Mitsubishi over the Sony?

Thanks,
Shane

Originally posted by garciab
Sounds similar to my experience. Owned mine for about two months without a hint of trouble (except some squirreliness with digital channel memories). Thought I got lucky and ended up with a good one, because I never got a single lockup. Then out of nowhere, BAM! Seemed like I was getting lockups daily, requiring reset button. After re-scanning for channels, that appears to be cleared up again. I'll see how long it holds till it needs re-scanning.

garciab and Ron Lee:

Thanks for your suggestion. Now that you both mention basically the same thing, I do seem to recall some funny stuff happening to at least one local HD channel in the DFW, TX area. Also noticed, after each reset the TV was set to a channel I never watch. I will re-scan and hope for the best.
Thanks again!

Originally posted by shanewalker
My two HDTV choices were down to the Mits and the very Sony model you seem to have switched from. Mind if I ask what you find superior in the Mitsubishi over the Sony?

Thanks,
Shane

Hey Shane, I found the Mits to have a much smoother more realistic picture with much better black levels. The Sony seemed a little too hard edged and "fake" looking as my girlfriend had mentioned. The SDE/SSE and grainy picture on the Sony was ultimately just too distracting for me. The best part is I can get the bigger 62" Mits from the same seating distance and still have an excellent picture without having to deal with SDE. The Sony I kept moving back to try and get a smoother picture. I still think its an excellent tv. I just prefer the Mits.

I've noticed a certain green cast in my picture since upgrading (?) to firmware v.04 a few weeks ago. Also saw one or two momentary lockups. Who do I call at Mits for the upgrade to v.05 and will it help?

Well I got my HDMI cable today and hooked it my 59avi up to the TV. The connection works fine. The player automtically detected the HDMI connection and defaulted to 720p resolution. I played a few DVDs and tried judging between the component hookup and the HDMI hookup. Forutnately, I can switch the device between component and HDMI from the TV's device menu and do an A/B comparison between the two.

From my limited testing, it seems that the overall HDMI picture is cleaner and has a bit less noise than the component version. Colors appeared to be slightly more saturated on the component input, but I think the HDMI needs the color filters set properly to get a true gauge of that. Detail in dark scenes seems to be better on the HDMI input as well as does overall detail level. In bright scenes, both component and HDMI look good, but in darker scenes, HDMI looks like it has finer detail. I tuned down the sharpness and turned off Definedge on the HDMI to get a smoother picture. I tried different resolutions over HDMI and compared to the component 480p, HDMI always looked cleaner aside from the slightly less saturation in colors.

I can output 480i, 480p, 720p, and 1080i over HDMI from the player and they all look very good. I prefer 720p so far, but the TVs scalar does a very good job and the other resolutions look great as well. It would be interesting to see the differences between 1080i and 720p into the TV. The 480i setting doesn't look as smooth as the others since it puts the deinterlacing task on the TV as well.

All in all, I still need to calibrate the settings over HDMI to get everything right. What are others using for the perfectcolor settings on their HDMI inputs? I think I can dial in the contrast and brightness right, but the colors filters need to be adjusted. The internal scalars in the TV are very good from what it seems and a 480p player should look great as well on this TV. The HDMI input invariably looks 'cleaner' and slightly more detailed than the component input and once I get the color settings right, I think the HDMI will be the way to go with this player.

Originally posted by GizmoSprocket
The Dish HD Demo channel us between HBOHD and ESPNHD. It shows some Dish HD promos, Discovery HD short subjects, and a fishtank in a Colorodo resteraunt in loop.

The 811 is set to 1080i. I found that the Mits did a better job downconverting 1080i to 720p than the Dish 811 did... I wish it could be set per channel or to "use native."

I will try to post my settings later. We are in the middle of our SOX audit at work and the last thing I want to do is fire up a laptop when I get home.

Ok- here is what I got, setting wise-

Globally the perfect colors are set to 31.
On Dish 510-
VNR- Reduction
TV Film Auto ON
TV Define Edge OFF
Contrast 26
Brifht 45
sharp 13
color 31
tint 31
color temp low.

Dish 811 via HDMI
VNR Reduction
TV Def Edge OFF
Cont 31
Bright 31
sharp 13
color 31
tint 31
color temp low
( I just realized this is almost "dead center" except for a few settings- trust me, that is coincidence- I actually did adjust these )

Built in (Cable-1) no Cable-Card, adjusted to HD Images, not SD.
VNR Reduction
Def Edge OFF
Cont 26
Bright 45
Sharp 13
Color 31
Tint 31
Temp low.

DVD, VCR (both are SONY) and Xbox is
the same, except tint is 26

I did most of this by setting DVD with AVIA and working off that source as a reference. Where possible, I did A/B comparisons between the same (or similar) content on the various sources. For example, comparring HBO-HD to a DVD running the same movie. Etc...

I also asked a friend who is a AV nut to come over and set it independantly after I zero'd it out (aka Double-blind). We were not too far off from each other- he tended to favor less sharpness and a dimmer image, but more contrast. Mostly one to three point differences- and not much change on the color at all from my settings.

This was good as, with some minor difference, we essentially validated each others calibration (since they were both so close).

My Wife, who doesn't see the differences (nor cares), thought we were both insane....

Originally posted by spiff72
.

Finally, where do you find the demo channel? I don't think I get that one...

Thanks again,
Jeff

Here is my Dish 811 HD linup. I am in NY Metro Area, but east-enough on long island to qualify for the broadcast channels including CBSHD.

9420- TNTHD
9421- Disc HD
9422 HDNET
9423 HDNet mov
9424 ESPNHD
9443 HDTV3 (demo channel)
9456 HBOHD
9460 SHOHD
9465 HDEV1
9466 NBAHD
9467 HDPPV
9483 CBS-HD (WCBS NY)

Originally posted by GizmoSprocket
Here is my Dish 811 HD linup. I am in NY Metro Area, but east-enough on long island to qualify for the broadcast channels including CBSHD.

9420- TNTHD
9421- Disc HD
9422 HDNET
9423 HDNet mov
9424 ESPNHD
9443 HDTV3 (demo channel)
9456 HBOHD
9460 SHOHD
9465 HDEV1
9466 NBAHD
9467 HDPPV
9483 CBS-HD (WCBS NY)

Strange...I don't see the demo channel in my lineup. Doesn't sound like I am missing out on much, though.

With regard to your settings, do you still feel like the HDMI input is washed out with your settings posted above? If not, I am thinking that there is something wrong with my Dish 811, or my HDMI input on the TV. (I am leaning towared the 811)

Thanks again,
Jeff

by washed out, what do you mean? Does the color saturation look muted? I think the HDMI input has a little less color saturation than the component input, but in many cases it looks more natural.

What are your perfectcolor settings for the HDMI port?

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
by washed out, what do you mean? Does the color saturation look muted? I think the HDMI input has a little less color saturation than the component input, but in many cases it looks more natural.

What are your perfectcolor settings for the HDMI port?

By washed out I meant that there is an appearance that the contrast and/or brightness is set too high.

The colors do not seem as vibrant either, but this isn't what bothers me.

I will post my settings tonight when I get home.

Thanks,
Jeff

Originally posted by spiff72
By washed out I meant that there is an appearance that the contrast and/or brightness is set too high.

The colors do not seem as vibrant either, but this isn't what bothers me.

I will post my settings tonight when I get home.

Thanks,
Jeff

I would agree that the issue is witht he 811. Nobody else using HDMI with HDTIVO or with upconveting DVD units complain about the Monlink Port's "wash-out".

That said, I have to hook up components to tell you more, but this is more than a basic color saturation issue- its almost as if the brightness is peaking "hotter" than other sources.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
by washed out, what do you mean? Does the color saturation look muted? I think the HDMI input has a little less color saturation than the component input, but in many cases it looks more natural.

What are your perfectcolor settings for the HDMI port?

I think this is more than color saturation- its just too bright. Reducing the brightness helps, but then there is a percieved loss of brightness range.

I notice no increase in brightness over HDMI with the DVD player.... in fact, I think the brightness and black detail is actually a bit better over HDMI than component. It might just be an issue with the signal levels on the 811...

The only thing I noticed was the HDMI input needed a lower brightness setting that component. According to Avia. But its definitely not washed out.

Well, I'm swapping out my WD-52525 for another one. I have a very minor bright spot, a very minor tilt, the TV switched to a blue screen for a split second 3 times yesterday while watching Tivo on the s-video input, and it has switched to black and white a few times. That was enough for me to give Best Buy a call.

I am within 30 days, so Best Buy gave me no issues with swapping it. They will even come pick up the old one when they deliver the new one for no charge. The only thing that sucks is that I can't request a particular build date. I'm not sure that is even possible. I'm hoping that with the rash of sales they had leading up to the Superbowl that they are all out of stock of the older ones. My old one is an August 2004 build date. Wish me luck with the new one. :) Hopefully I'll get it next week.

I was really on the fence until the blue screen thing happened. All of the issues were very minor, and I didn't want to end up with a set that was even worse. But now I think it is worth the risk. Besides, with my wife and son and myself being sick for the last month, the damn thing has been on for many, many hours already. ;)

Originally posted by IronHorse
Happy :D to report that I received my $300.00 rebate from Mitsubishi for my 62" 725 series! Don't give up you guys!

I got mine on Tuesday. Thanks for grabbin those images and letting me host them for everyone. Anyone who got the rebate from my website owes our buddy IronHorse a beer!

:D

Are the rebates still good?

rebates have long expired. Checks are finally coming in though.

I got a call yesterday that my TV was in the shop waiting for me to pick it up. Can't get down there till next Friday after we close on the house. Looking forward to watching my first movie on the set :)

The tech just left after cleaning the mirror and inside the case on my 52525. As others have reported the mirror was filthy. Now the smudges are gone and the set is brighter than ever (time to adjust it again).

I asked the tech about the cause of that much dust on the mirror. He said that the fan is in the middle of the back of the set and it draws the dust in from there. Anyone else heard this? If true, this may be an ongoing issue.

The fan in the back is the exhaust. The intake is the filter on the left side of the TV.

I went to my local A/v store to look at the Mits WD-62825 TV. Since I like the picture quality, and the PVR is not a "must have" for me- he suggested that I look at the WD-62725 instead. He said with the exception of not having the PVR, and $500 less, basically the TV's are the same.

Here are a couple of questions for owners of either set-

Is it true that the picture quality is essentially the same ie. same electronics, DLP chip, etc. with both TV's? Another poster mentioned that the screen is different on the 62825- better color and saturation.

I like the uniform look top to bottom of the gloss black TV bezel and stand of the WD-62825.

Is it possible to attach the Mits 62725 TV to the Mits 62825 stand? Anyone have this particular combination? Is it a perfect fit? The salesperson said customers order that combination all the time rather than the silver factory stand for the 62725.

Other options include a 3rd party stand - WAF in chrome or black to match the tv. What are you guys using for a stand? If you don't mind- could you post a screen shot of your combination? Or recommendations?

The TV will be in my living room, viewing distance about 8-11 feet eyeball to screen. Lots of SD, the limited HD content from Comcast, and some DVD's. I'm connected to Comcast digital box with HD.

Thanks in advance.

Even the 525 has the same engine.

I have had my 62725 since Nov and have been very happy with it. The only problem I have been having is that the upper right quadrant of the screen seems to have areas that are "dull". It almost looks like there is dust or dirt on the screen but after cleaning the glare screen many times it does not improve.

Anyone else have this problem? I have spoken to Mits and they did not think it was likely that dust got behind the glare screen and I do not personally want to take it off.

I am going to have a mits authorized tech come out to check it out. There are a million in South O.C., CA. Does anyone have a recommended tech that they have used?

I have had the WD-52525 for a week now and so far I am impressed with everything except for two problems. I have only read 23 pages of this long thread so far and apologize if my two problems have been addressed. Please direct me to the appropriate post if there is one. My two problems are as follows and I have 22 days left on my 30 day window.

1. Audio appears out of sync on SD over a Directv Tivo. This is most noticeable when someone talks really fast. It also appeared slightly out of sync on a dvd player. I have only got s video and rca cables from tivo and component cables and rca from the dvd player. I am awaiting delivery of a new entertainment center before I hook everything back up through my yamaha and will have digital audio cables going from tivo & dvd player to yamaha and just component video going to the tv. Does any one know what may cause this?

2. When watching some dvds or programs that has black bars on the top and bottom, the black line appears to be somewhat crooked. The black line appears to go from highest point on left to a somewhat lower point on right. This is very small but still kind of annoys me after spending hard earned money on my tv.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Originally posted by spiff72
By washed out I meant that there is an appearance that the contrast and/or brightness is set too high.

The colors do not seem as vibrant either, but this isn't what bothers me.

I will post my settings tonight when I get home.

Thanks,
Jeff

You should try searching for hdmi looking washed out in this and other forums like dvd players or rear projection units forum in general. A lot of devices pass signals differently through hdmi (e.g., don't pass lower black levels, or may pass more whites). I think the Samsung 841 abd 941 dvd players do something like this.

Originally posted by shaggy2002

1. Audio appears out of sync on SD over a Directv Tivo.

2. When watching some dvds or programs that has black bars on the top and bottom, the black line appears to be somewhat crooked.


The second item is the tilt problem that you. There's an entire thread devoted to this including a couple of good solutions. Instructions with photos on how to fix it yourself are included. I'll look up the link later today and post if for you if you can't find it via search.

The first I haven't seen on the Mits although I've seen it noted in detail on the Samsung DLP threads. The only thing I'd mention here is that even on my old TV I'd notice some audio-video sync issues, especially via DirecTV. I've read some say that even within industry tolerances some people notice this more than others. So, I'm not sure what the answer is here. Just that I haven't seen it with my DirecTV (via component) or DVD (also via component).

DC,

Thanks for your help in this matter. I was thinking that maybe I had the tilt problem. I misunderstood what tilt was earlier. I was thinking that tilt was when the line is not straight edged, but bowed. My black bars are perfectly straight, but seem at a very slight angle. I do have extended warranty through UE, is this something to call a tech out to my house to fix? One last thing is my tv is currently on a table which should be level. Is it possible that if the tv is just a little uneven that the "tilt" may happen?

Originally posted by shaggy2002
DC,

Thanks for your help in this matter. I was thinking that maybe I had the tilt problem. I misunderstood what tilt was earlier. I was thinking that tilt was when the line is not straight edged, but bowed. My black bars are perfectly straight, but seem at a very slight angle. I do have extended warranty through UE, is this something to call a tech out to my house to fix? One last thing is my tv is currently on a table which should be level. Is it possible that if the tv is just a little uneven that the "tilt" may happen?

Well, it sounds like tilt to me anyhow. I've heard mixed stories on whether the tech will do the right thing to fix the tilt. Some seem to know about the internal adjustments they can make and others don't. I'm sure someone who has worked with UE will let you know here soon. Otherwise, go take a look at what's involved with the pictures in the tilt thread. It's not too difficult and seems to fix the problem for everyone who has tried it.

Good luck!

For those people with DVE... what is the best way to set contrast using the grayscale ramp (or any other test pattern) on DVE? Brightness is very easily set, but contrast is not as straightforward. I think I've got it close, but would like to make sure I'm using it the right way :)

I think I've got the colors set over HDMI fairly well. There is some error in the green channel that I can't get rid of completely, but it's not bad.

Thanks!

Brightness is very easily set, but contrast is not as straightforward. I think I've got it close, but would like to make sure I'm using it the right way

I second this. The contrast setting definitely is more subjective than the brightness or color/tint adjustments. The two that i thought were most subjective were contrast and sharpness.

In my case it is all moot as I have my contrast turned way down (around 24) as this helps with the rainbows.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
For those people with DVE... what is the best way to set contrast using the grayscale ramp (or any other test pattern) on DVE? Brightness is very easily set, but contrast is not as straightforward. I think I've got it close, but would like to make sure I'm using it the right way :)

I think I've got the colors set over HDMI fairly well. There is some error in the green channel that I can't get rid of completely, but it's not bad.

Thanks!

I would like a definitive answer to this as well. The description on the DVD makes no sense to me (the part in the troubleshooting area). I would like to hear a step by step guide to setting contrast on a digital TV set.

Also, does every one with a Mits DLP lack the ability to see the 3rd black bar in the standard brightness pluge pattern? (I think it was the one that it supposed to be below black).

Thanks,
Jeff

Also, does every one with a Mits DLP lack the ability to see the 3rd black bar in the standard brightness pluge pattern? (I think it was the one that it supposed to be below black).

I saw all three with my old toshiba DVD player but NOT with my new Panasonic S97 until I adjusted the brightness setting on the DVD player. if you don't see it I would suggest starting there.

Originally posted by August West
I saw all three with my old toshiba DVD player but NOT with my new Panasonic S97 until I adjusted the brightness setting on the DVD player. if you don't see it I would suggest starting there.

Interesting...I don't know if I have a brightness control on the DVD player (Sony RDR-GX7 DVD recorder). I will have to play with it a bit more when my wife isn't around. :D

Thanks,
Jeff

I see BTB on the pluge pattern with the 59avi no problems... On component I think I had to set the player to 7.5 IRE and then turn the brightness to 45 or so to see it easily. Over HDMI, I leave the player at 0 IRE and the brightness at 41 to just barely make out BTB on the pluge pattern. Any higher brightness, and you can easily see it.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
I see BTB on the pluge pattern with the 59avi no problems... On component I think I had to set the player to 7.5 IRE and then turn the brightness to 45 or so to see it easily. Over HDMI, I leave the player at 0 IRE and the brightness at 41 to just barely make out BTB on the pluge pattern. Any higher brightness, and you can easily see it.

I am guessing that the lower end players/recorders dont have those adjustments, correct?

I think a lot of players have brightness settings that may affect your ability to see BTB even if they don't have a setting to switch IRE. The IRE setting just moves the level of the entire signal up to a different reference voltage. Brightness controls in players may do the same thing.

Originally posted by DCinDC
Well, it sounds like tilt to me anyhow. I've heard mixed stories on whether the tech will do the right thing to fix the tilt. Some seem to know about the internal adjustments they can make and others don't. I'm sure someone who has worked with UE will let you know here soon. Otherwise, go take a look at what's involved with the pictures in the tilt thread. It's not too difficult and seems to fix the problem for everyone who has tried it.

Good luck!

DC, I noticed one more thing with the tilt problem. When you watch tv in the standard 4:3 mode with the black bars on the left and right. The line is not perfectly straight. It goes straight for about 3/4 of the way down and the last 1/4 the left breaks left and the right breaks right. Somewhat trapezoidal. Does the tilt link help with that as well?

Originally posted by shaggy2002
Does the tilt link help with that as well?

yes.

Originally posted by shaggy2002
1. Audio appears out of sync on SD over a Directv Tivo. This is most noticeable when someone talks really fast. It also appeared slightly out of sync on a dvd player. I have only got s video and rca cables from tivo and component cables and rca from the dvd player. I am awaiting delivery of a new entertainment center before I hook everything back up through my yamaha and will have digital audio cables going from tivo & dvd player to yamaha and just component video going to the tv. Does any one know what may cause this?

I notice this occasionally with my SD D*TiVo as well (hooked up via S-video cable). It's most noticeable when I'm watching something that I recorded, not nearly as much if I'm watching something live. Of course, those who have TiVo know that you RARELY watch anything live, so it can be an issue. I think this is a D* TiVo issue, not the TV itself. What works for me is pausing the picture, then use the FW or REV arrow to jump or back up a couple frames. Sometimes it takes a couple tries, but usually this helps. I wonder if switching back to composite video (rather than the S-video) would make a difference?

Originally posted by Leonard Gee
I like the uniform look top to bottom of the gloss black TV bezel and stand of the WD-62825.

Is it possible to attach the Mits 62725 TV to the Mits 62825 stand? Anyone have this particular combination? Is it a perfect fit? The salesperson said customers order that combination all the time rather than the silver factory stand for the 62725.

Other options include a 3rd party stand - WAF in chrome or black to match the tv. What are you guys using for a stand? If you don't mind- could you post a screen shot of your combination? Or recommendations?

A few pages back I posted a couple shots with my WD52725 on the Mits stand. You can find them here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=5225853#post5225853

My thoughts on the Mits stand:
- Love the looks and shaping, matches the TV great.
- It's TOO SMALL. My D*TiVo box hangs over the front edge since it's not very deep. There's only room (barely) for the two components.
- The top of the 725 is black, and the bottom inch or two is silver. The stand is silver. It all looks great together, but I'd much prefer an all-black color scheme.

If I had it to do over again, I'd look for a different stand.

Well after months of looking at TVs and reading posts on this board and flip-flopping from one TV to another I finally purchased the Mits WD52725 on Sat. I am having it delivered on the 10th as we are not moving into our house until then and I can't wait! Thank you to all that have posted on here I appreciate all the info. I am so looking forward to getting this thing as I currently have a 9 year old 27" tv...so it will be a MAJOR upgrade for sure.

How does the SD PQ of the 04'/'05 Mits DLPs compare to, say, Sony LCD or any other non-DLP? I've done a little picture tweaking on my 52", which helped, but the SD PQ seems more than a little artifact-laden even in 'narrow' (which I assume is 'normal' 4:3)...HD looks good, and DVD sources, but my D* looks pretty terrible.

If my wife finds she just can't stand the rainbows I may have to jump ship on the Mits/DLP, but I don't know how things stack up.

Originally posted by shanewalker
How does the SD PQ of the 04'/'05 Mits DLPs compare to, say, Sony LCD or any other non-DLP? I've done a little picture tweaking on my 52", which helped, but the SD PQ seems more than a little artifact-laden even in 'narrow' (which I assume is 'normal' 4:3)...HD looks good, and DVD sources, but my D* looks pretty terrible.

If my wife finds she just can't stand the rainbows I may have to jump ship on the Mits/DLP, but I don't know how things stack up.

The SD content on the Mits and Sony LCD are comparable. Having had both I wouldnt say one is better than the other. Some channels look pretty good while some look like total a$$ on both. If your wife cant tolerate the rainbows I would recommend the Sony without hesitation. Just make sure you and/or your wife can tolerate the SDE.

I've been able to record my ANT-1 feed to my PC through the IEEE 1394 port of my 52525. Is it possible to route other inputs to that port?

For example, I have and old VHS tape I want to dub to DVD. I could route the tape through my camcorder's 1394, but since I already have a VCR hooked up to the TV, why not record it that way?

So far my PC only sees the output of ANT-1 even though the 525 is displaying some other input (VHS/ DVD/ other...).

FYI : Thread 403695 on this board discusses IEEE 1394 recording from a monitor's (any make/model) 1394 output in general.

Originally posted by shanewalker
How does the SD PQ of the 04'/'05 Mits DLPs compare to, say, Sony LCD or any other non-DLP? I've had a Mits 52525 since August. Done a lot of comparisons, and I was down to the Mits or the Sony. I think Sony has a slight edge across the board in their NTSC video processing. But the Mits had a much bigger advantage in contrast ratio and features.

Originally posted by shanewalker If my wife finds she just can't stand the rainbows I may have to jump ship on the Mits/DLP, but I don't know how things stack up. If you've got the coin, the Sony Qualia RPTV is becoming available. No rainbows, good contrast, and native 1080p display - no screen door effect. But it's only available in a 70" model, and expensive. I haven't seen one in person yet, but by all accounts, it might be the new king.

You need to consider something besides DLP if your wife sees the rainbows.

What audio receiver compatibilities does the new firmware fix? I'm having problems with dolby digital 5.1, the center channel is barely working. The sound is very faint from the center while all the surrounds are fine. I have double checked all connections and tried different cables and inputs but it doesn't help. I know the receiver is fine because DVDs with DD 5.1 play fine.

Quick question,

Anyone have any idea why I keep getting a message like below when my 62725 gets a signal on the Input-DTV component connection?

"Check connection or power. The connections for RGBHV of YPrPb may be invalid."

I've gotten this signal with the DVD Player, Cable Box, and PS2. Got it before setting up netcommand and after setting it up while choosing YprPb as the connection type.

Also, anyone have any idea how to set the automatic shutdown time when a connection isn't in use? 1 minute is a bit short.

Originally posted by xb1032
Quick question,

Anyone have any idea why I keep getting a message like below when my 62725 gets a signal on the Input-DTV component connection?

"Check connection or power. The connections for RGBHV of YPrPb may be invalid."

I've gotten this signal with the DVD Player, Cable Box, and PS2. Got it before setting up netcommand and after setting it up while choosing YprPb as the connection type.

Also, anyone have any idea how to set the automatic shutdown time when a connection isn't in use? 1 minute is a bit short.

If I recall correctly, the DTV input will display that error if it doesn't see a signal from the source. If you connect to one of the component inputs rather than the DTV input, you will not get this error message.

I seem to recall there is a setting in the "options" service menu that lets you specify the resolution (or maybe the type - YPrPb or RGBHV) for the DTV input. I don't know if this would prevent that error from occurring. I haven't played with anything in this menu, as I didn't want to mess up something.

I am not sure about the 1 minute cutoff...

Thanks,
Jeff

Ok, so Best Buy delivered a new set to me today.

The good! No more bright spot!

The bad. :( This set is actually OLDER than my old August 2004 model! July 2004! This set has to have some of the worst geometry I have ever seen. The tilt (not keystone!) is horrid. The picture is out of focus in the center of the screen. It is so bad that there is an internal reflection on the right top of the screen. The screen is also shifted to the right by at least a half inch. As well, when the Windows XP screen saver is on the screen, when the Windows XP is on the upper left part of the screen, I can see a "ghost" of the image on the lower right of the screen.

I called up Mitsubishi, and they are going to send a tech out. If he can't fix it, the set is going back to Best Buy for yet another one. They told me I have another 30 days with this set (which I am going to verify with a supervisor).

Mitsu is also going to send out the 05 release of the code.

At least I have issues that Mitsu will try to fix, instead of the bright spot, which was unworkable.

The really weird thing is that this TV seems to have less of a green tint than my old WD52525 without any adjustment.

The blacks also seem better. But that could just be because I blindly used the umr settings on my old TV. :)

Full screen, tilted and trapezoid.

Right side is about half an inch higher than the left.

And one of the internal reflections due to the tilt. The screwed up geometry is also more visible here.

these are easily fixable Shape so I wouldn't fret. I just have to ask, since you have the access to the service menu why don't you adjust it yourself?

Anyway, enjoy once it is calibrated.

How can this stuff be fixed from the service menu? Got a link?

How about the blurry pixels in the center of the screen? Is there an adjustment for that, too?

I just found this image in the Blame Game thread:
http://avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=4470243&fullpage=1

Anyone else notice that the VGA input bypasses virtually everything and goes straight into an A/D converter? I guess this is why there is a very limited amount of video adjustment. But I'm guessing that it also bypasses all the filters that create artifacts that people hate so much. Pretty cool. Glad I'm using a HTPC as my DVD player. :)

Originally posted by irishrulze
these are easily fixable Shape so I wouldn't fret. I just have to ask, since you have the access to the service menu why don't you adjust it yourself?

Anyway, enjoy once it is calibrated.

OK. I know how to adjust the horizontal and vertical position but how do you adjust the bowing? I'm not really sure if mine has a tilt issue but more like a bowing in the bottom right hand corner.

Hello all,

This may be the wrong place to bring this up, but I am including an excerpt from an email I just sent to the chief engineer at my local CBS affiliate. By posting this here, I am trying to understand why there are limitations on how you can format the picture when you are watching an HD channel. As you can read below, my CBS affliliate likes to stretch their SD 4:3 content. The only reason that I can think of that this makes sense would be to protect TV owners from burn in. But it just pisses me off as a DLP owner since burn-in is not an issue, and it distorts the picture in a way that I cannot overcome.

Any thoughts on this? Do any of your local providers like to stretch their SD content?

Thanks,
Jeff



Begin letter excerpt:

Finally, I would also like to enter a complaint about the way that
your station sends through the CBS feeds. It seems that all SD
content (4:3) is stretched to fill the 16:9 format screen. I find
this annoying, since there is no way for me to choose to watch it in
its original 4:3 format. The nature of these digital broadcasts
limits the formatting choices for the TV. It has just 2 modes when
watching a digital channel. "Standard" - which basically shows the
picture in the aspect ratio it was sent in, and "Wide expand" which
would stretch a 4:3 picture to fill the 16:9 screen. Using this Wide
expand mode on your already stretched image makes everything comically
wide!

I prefer to watch SD content with the black pillars on either side so
the image is not stretched. Unfortunately, when the TV is tuned to a
digital HD station that is showing SD content, I have to rely on the
broadcaster to send the picture through in its original format.

I have also noticed that this can vary. Some commercials are
stretched, and others are 4:3. The news is always stretched. Non HD
sports (like NCAA basketball) are stretched, and thus lose a lot of
detail.

Is there a reason for this distortion of the SD content?

Thanks in advance for your time and consideration.

Any thoughts on this? Do any of your local providers like to stretch their SD content?

In Maryland, CBS uses gray pillarboxing and does not stretch. NBC, on the otherhand, does what you say with the SD programming. It is irritating. I'd suggest posting to the threads on this forum dealing with OTA signals and local broadcasts for your area. The people in those threads know quite a bit about local programming and the ins and outs of HDTV.

My WD-62725 was delivered about 2 hours ago, which replaced the Samsung 6163. I really like the look of the Mits in my home - it looks very classy. HD looks amazing on this set, sharper than the Samsung as it has the HD2+ chip versus the HD3 chip in the Samsung. Regular stations do not look bad at all, the Mits is very comparable to the Samsung when viewing standard definition channels. On HD and DVD sources the Mits has more sharpness and better blacks.

I am still undecided if I will remove the anti-glare screen, it does not look to bad but is more reflective than the Samsung. Also I was surprised at the Mits remote - it is huge !!! lol

I have my Cable and X-box connected via component and my Panasonic 97s connected via HDMI. So far I have no issues with the HDMI port on the Mits, the picture looks great with the upscaling Panasonic DVD player.

My set has firmware: V26 004.04
The lamp hours were: 00037-00002-00000-00000-00035

I ran through the basic calibrations using DVE.
Here are my settings:

For Cable/High Definition and DVD via HDMI:

VNR: Reduction
TV Def Edge: OFF
Color Temp: Low
Contrast: 31
Brightness: 31
sharpness: 20 (there was not much of a difference from 0-63 in the DVE test, I kept it on the lower end if by chance it did introduce picture noise).
color: 31
tint: 25

For X-Box via component:

VNR: Reduction
TV Def Edge: On
Color Temp: Medium
Contrast: 45
Brightness: 50
sharpness: 20
color: 31
tint: 25
***The increase contrast and brightness for the X-box was what looked good to my eyes when playing on the system. DVE showed that they should be lower values.

I will try taking some pictures of the setup and post them for you to see.


Jeff

Picture of my basic set up 62 inch Mits DLP WD-62725 HDTV and 6.1 surround.

Looking for a new DVD player for my 725. Are any a better match than another? Looking @ around $200. Your experiences?

Just got a 52725 to replace a slightly defective Mits CRT RPTV. Although I love the crispness and vividness of the picture, the black level just does not compare to CRT RPTVs when watching at night in a dark living room. Black levels in bright scenes look fine, but night scenes or outer space shots look gray and washed out.

I haven't really seen any comments on this, so I'm wondering if I am biased, coming as I am from the world of CRT RPTVs for the past ten years or so. Do others feel like I do? Is this a common experience with DLP sets, or is there something wrong with my mine?

I want to keep this television, especially since the exchange process for the CRT RPTV was a pain in the arse. Do you think this black level issue is something that one gets used to over time? Thanks for your help.

Originally posted by bferr1
Just got a 52725 to replace a slightly defective Mits CRT RPTV. Although I love the crispness and vividness of the picture, the black level just does not compare to CRT RPTVs when watching at night in a dark living room. Black levels in bright scenes look fine, but night scenes or outer space shots look gray and washed out.

I haven't really seen any comments on this, so I'm wondering if I am biased, coming as I am from the world of CRT RPTVs for the past ten years or so. Do others feel like I do? Is this a common experience with DLP sets, or is there something wrong with my mine?

I want to keep this television, especially since the exchange process for the CRT RPTV was a pain in the arse. Do you think this black level issue is something that one gets used to over time? Thanks for your help.

It's not as a good as a CRT, but properly adjusted I'd say it's pretty damn good. I have a thing for dark movies (both literally and figuratively) and I continue to enjoy them on my 52725. Have you callibrated yet?

Jefftaz-

Nice setup. A few questions for you since I'm considering the 62725:

Have you been able to program the Mits remote to operate the Comcast Digital cablebox?

How is your center speaker held in place on top of the TV?

Nice equipment cabinet- what brand is it?

Thanks.

I've used AVIA and THX Optimode to do some basic calibration, but I have not had the set ISF'd yet as I just got it on Friday and I heard you should wait about three months before doing so.

I stumbled across neutral density filters as a possible solution to the black level problem. It seems to work just fine on LCDs and Samsung DLPs. I haven't heard any stories about the Mits TVs yet. Has anyone tried that with their Mits and does it work?

Originally posted by bferr1
I've used AVIA and THX Optimode to do some basic calibration, but I have not had the set ISF'd yet as I just got it on Friday and I heard you should wait about three months before doing so.

I stumbled across neutral density filters as a possible solution to the black level problem. It seems to work just fine on LCDs and Samsung DLPs. I haven't heard any stories about the Mits TVs yet. Has anyone tried that with their Mits and does it work?

Not sure the same rules apply for ISF of DLP as CRT, but I'm not sure about that yet. There was a discussion on here somewhere about someone trying to use a a neutral density filter to improve the black level. If I run across it I'll post a link.

Here it is:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=504901

Leonard Gee,

I highly recommend the Mits WD-62725.
Right now I believe it is one of the best 60 inch and above DLP sets that you can get.

I have not tried to have the remote learn the Comcast cable yet. As soon as I do I will let you know how it went.

I have the center channel taped to the top of the screen with industrial strength (very important) double sided tape.
I then cut a piece of styrofoam that came with the TV and used it as a brace to support the back side of the speaker.
The styrofoam is also held in place with the industrial strength double sided tape.
It is very secure, I will post a picture for you when I get a chance.

I got my equipment stand at Target !
It has been great, I really like it as it holds a lot of components.
In fact I have my X-box and some other equipment in there which is totally hidden by the frosted glass cabinet drawers.
The height is 22 inches and has worked perfect for my setup.
The best part is that it was very affordable as well, a lot less than some others that I was looking at.

Best of Luck,

Jeff

Here is a high def shot that I took last night from the WD-62725.

This is how my center channel looks from the front of the TV.

This is the side view.

I did a search but couldn't find the answer to this simple question. How do you find out what the build date of your set is? I am getting a 52725 from Tweeter this week and would like the latest date possible I suppose.

Originally posted by gtcharlie
I did a search but couldn't find the answer to this simple question. How do you find out what the build date of your set is? I am getting a 52725 from Tweeter this week and would like the latest date possible I suppose.

There is a sticker on the back of the TV near the serial number tag. It will say something like "July 2004" (in my case at least).

Is anybody using a computer and a component output to display on their Mitsu DLP? I just tried it last night, just so I could get the benefit of all of the stretch modes and perfect color, etc...

It looked absolutely horrendous compared to the RGB VGA input. The RGB VGA input gives a perfect 1:1 pixel mapping that is gorgeous. The component input gives flickering pixels and ghosting around high constrast areas. I suspect that the ghosting was due to the sharpness control and possibly the noise reduction. I did not mess around with the settings at all on the PC or the TV since RGB was so vastly superior.

This gives further creedence to the notion that the RGB input port bypasses all of the television's internal filtering. Great news if you have a home theater PC. :)

Couple of questions guys. I've had my 52725 for about a month and a half now. I had a tilt problem that I corrected, but haven't been able to correct a slight trapezoid problem (left side of the image is "taller" than the right side). Even though the adjustment bolts on the front of the TV have icons indicating trapezoid adjustment, they only seem to move the picture up/down and rotate it. Any help on the trapezoid problem (only really notice it when I'm using my computer through the VGA port)? Maybe I should just call mits and get a tech out?

Second. I notice a graininess (mosquito noise?) on solid background colors when watching HD content (primarily 1080i). Is this a common thing for 1080i content. Artifacts of scaling it to 720p?

TIA

i have had my 62725 for about a week now. It was manuf in Dec 2004, so i was a little surprised that it had version 4.03, since i understand the most recent is 4.05. Does mits send a software update automatically when you register the product or do you request one?...or, if everything works fine, would i possibly be inviting trouble if i update??
the only problem we have had so far is some audio sync problems off our satellite box (via HDMI) , and, as many have had , flecks of dust under the shield, on the screen itself , or possibly on the mirror. i think i'll wait another week or so and possibly accumulate additional problems before i call for service

you must request it... call 949-830-8364

Have had my 62725 for about 2 months now and noticed big, dark, fingerprint shaped spots all over the screen. Called to have it serviced, tech came out today, and did not even open the set up. He told me he had to order a cleaning kit from Mits, or a new lens, and he would get back with me after he contacted Mits. Does this sound right??? The Tech did not seem like he knew what he was doing??? Thanks.

Does anyone know if there is a way to adjust the DLP chip's timing relative to the color wheel on a WD52525?

First of all, I have a tilt issue that a tech is coming out to fix this afternoon. I'm hoping that this will fix the "convergence" issue that I am seeing. Basically, I can see that the red and blue aren't quite lining up with the green when the DLP chip is displaying those colors. the red pixel is off to one side, and the blue pixel is off to the other side. Particularly on the left and right edges of the screen. You can see it more when there is a 1:1 pixel mapping on the screen like with a PC screen through the VGA connector and there is a white pixel next to a black one.

I understand that this is a result of the timing of the DLP chip being off with respect to the color wheel. I see that there are a ton of light engine adjustments in the service menu, but nobody really knows what they do other than the screen centering adjustment. So, does anyone have a clue, here? Should we start a thread for discovery of what these service menu adjustments are, like the Samsung owners did?

On the edges of the screen you are bound to see some chromatic aberration... it is because of the projection lens. Towards the center of the screen, everything should look perfect, but towards the outer edges, a slight amount of color fringing is normal.

It is just odd though, because all 3 (4?) colors of light are all coming from the exact same source. A single mirror on the DMD. And it all goes through the same exact path of mirrors and prisms to get to the screen. So why would you get chromatic aberration?

I would understand it if this were a 3 panel display like an LCOS or LCD (and I have seen some sony GWIVs with some really bad convergence). But it isn't. All the light follows the same path, so why do we have convergence issues, even if they are less than a pixel width?

It's because of the way the lens is shaped and the relatively short focal length of the whole system... this type of thing affects all rear projection setups to some extent.

umr, if you could chime in here, that would be great.

So, I'm guessing that it is because different wavelengths of light get bent differently by the lens?

If that is the case, I would expect to see this chromatic aberration be a mirror reflection on either side of the screen since the lens is symmetrical. In other words, if the blue pixel sits to the left of the red pixel on one side of the screen, it would be sitting to the right of the red pixel on the other side of the screen. I'll have to verify this later.

If it is a timing issue (still not sure what this means, though), I would expect the shift to be the same on both sides of the screen.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4474573#post4474573
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4386080#post4386080
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4388807#post4388807

Ok, did some searching on chromatic aberration and came up with this site which explains it.
http://www.vanwalree.com/optics/chromatic.html

Definitely not a timing issue. I suspect that lenses that would correct this are very expensive indeed.

So how exactly does a color wheel timing issue end up shifting the color of the television?

I'll try and take a picture of the chromatic aberration tonight and post it. I wonder if there is a difference between sets. Hopefully someone else can do the same thing so we can compare.

If you use a color filter to look at a color bar pattern, you may see one of the primaries showing up in the other colors that should be filtered out. This indicates that one of the primary colors is showing up where it should not be... ie, the color wheel is either not keeping up or is spinning too fast and displaying a color when it should not.

I think the answer to this question is no, but, has anyone figured out a way that you can setup two seperate Netcommand choices where each have the same video output but two seperate audio settings? I have 4 devices and only 3 component inputs. I am using my receiver to switch between two different component inputs (PS2 & DVD). Since I have Netcommand setup to switch my AVR to the correct input, I'd like to have one device setup to use the Input DTV for the DVD and change my AVR to the correct audio input on the AVR. I'd then like a seperate device (PS2) to switch to the input-dtv connection and use a different input on the AVR. Problem is, once you assign an input to a device it's no longer available for other devices. Anyone know a work around?

Originally posted by Shape
...Should we start a thread for discovery of what these service menu adjustments are, like the Samsung owners did?

That would be a good idea if others will get involved. I copied down my service menu settings (2-4-5-7) and compared to a 62825 and found the color better and brighter on the 825 model. However, I was unable to update about 6 settings and am not sure how to. Also, I'm not sure how many different areas of the service menu there is. I'd really like to brighten my picture without sacrificing black levels. And I am willing to do this with a little bit of white crush (in the contrast area).

A lot of good info in this Mits DLP thread, actually a suit now! Has anyone put together a document they would be willing to share that summarizes the normal problems/solutions (ie green tint, tilt, hot spots, fingerprints), adjustments, how to get into service menus, what the various test patterns are used for and how to use them, new firmware up-dates, maintenance/cleaning procedures,etc. ....new owner of WD-52725

Originally posted by xb1032
That would be a good idea if others will get involved. I copied down my service menu settings (2-4-5-7) and compared to a 62825 and found the color better and brighter on the 825 model. However, I was unable to update about 6 settings and am not sure how to. Also, I'm not sure how many different areas of the service menu there is. I'd really like to brighten my picture without sacrificing black levels. And I am willing to do this with a little bit of white crush (in the contrast area).

A thought... those settings you can't change are maybe the ones for the Green/Red gain controls, right? Isn't the color decoder accessible through the PerfectColor settings anyways? Perhaps those values are coming from the perfectcolor settings and change only when they are changed... it may be worth a try to change the perfectcolor settings and see if it has an effect on the service menu settings...

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
A thought... those settings you can't change are maybe the ones for the Green/Red gain controls, right? Isn't the color decoder accessible through the PerfectColor settings anyways? Perhaps those values are coming from the perfectcolor settings and change only when they are changed... it may be worth a try to change the perfectcolor settings and see if it has an effect on the service menu settings...

That's a thought. I never considered that. I'll give that a try tonight. The settings I jotted down on the 825 were default and the perfect color settings were untouched. I may differ from the rest here but I'd assume that there would be some kind of additional contrast and gamma settings somewhere in the service menu. Do you know of any other areas other thand the 2-4-5-7 ( Don't recall the number to view the lamp hours)?

The other Menu is MENU - 2 - 4 - 7 - 0 ... it seems like more of a diagnostic menu and has no adjustments for the picture.

Just wondering if anyone knows the dimensions of the box the 52725 comes in? I am getting my furniture delivered this Thursday and Tweeter is having a problem delivering the TV until later next week. I have an Acura MDX and would love to just go and pick the thing up but I have a feeling the box will be too big.

Well, I don't know how it happened, but the chromatic aberration got even worse today. I attached a picture of it.

The "tech" came out today. He knew nothing about the TV. I had to show him how to adjust the keystone. The tilt is a bit better, but the upper left is still skewed.

I think I have to return this thing. What would you guys do? This aberration is horrendous. There is barely any black line left on the screen!

Another aberration picture. These are 1 pixel wide black lines. I hot-rodded the levels in the picture to show just how bad it is.

Can someone else take some similar pictures? These were both on the left side of the screen.

Can you access a test pattern instead and see what that looks like? MENU - 2 - 4 - 5 - 7 and then press REW a few times to get to the test pattern that has a white grid with dots on a black screen. On the white grid you may be able to see some color separation into red and blue towards the edges of the screen, but the center should be all white.

Unfortunately, the test patterns aren't in the native resolution of the display. They are 960x540. So they get scaled up to 1280x720. And it looks like they use antialiasing or some sort of filtering. Those thin vertical and horizontal lines are only 1 pixel wide on a PC. But on the TV, they are several pixels wide, and they aren't all the same color. They get darker as you move away from the center of the line.

Aberration isn't at all visible on the white lines/dots screen as a result. The shading of the pixels hides it.

Aberration is better in the center of the screen, but that is also where it is out of focus, so I'd expect it to be a bit better with an out of focus image.

Also, there didn't seem to be enough keystone adjustment on the adjuster that moved the screen up and down. We got to a point where it started reflecting internally at the top and the keystone was still there. :(

He never even got to the tilt adjustment because he ran out of time. It is a LOT of work to get all the way back there. Once you are there, do you just screw the filter back on so the TV will run?

Now I know why these TVs have so much overscan. It is to allow for all of these adjustments without running out of pixels on the edges of the screen. :rolleyes:

He also managed to unscrew the filter cover while the TV was running, which shut down the TV and all the fans. So the bulb was shut down while hot. :(

man, just return the thing if you can and ask for a new one. The LE rotational adjustment is part of the LE mounting plate and is not easy to access... you need to basically get at the LE itself and all but remove it...

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
A thought... those settings you can't change are maybe the ones for the Green/Red gain controls, right? Isn't the color decoder accessible through the PerfectColor settings anyways? Perhaps those values are coming from the perfectcolor settings and change only when they are changed... it may be worth a try to change the perfectcolor settings and see if it has an effect on the service menu settings...

a new theory :

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=5296691#post5296691

:)

Originally posted by Blaine3119
Have had my 62725 for about 2 months now and noticed big, dark, fingerprint shaped spots all over the screen. Called to have it serviced, tech came out today, and did not even open the set up. He told me he had to order a cleaning kit from Mits, or a new lens, and he would get back with me after he contacted Mits. Does this sound right??? The Tech did not seem like he knew what he was doing??? Thanks.

Obviously, I can't tell you whether your tech knows his stuff or not. From your description, I'm not even sure that we had the same problem.

Basically, I had 5 or 6 "smudges" that showed on my 52525. They were not really that dark, so they only showed up against light backgrounds. The tech that came out to work on my set simply removed the screen and cleaned the small mirror in the front of the set. The difference was dramatic. The mirror had a build up of dust and it was heavier in several places on the mirror. He never touched the lens.

I know that doesn't really answer your question. But if he actually does get a cleaning kit and comes back, that may solve the problem.

Shape,

Your problem looks like chroma delay to me.

Looks like I was a bit hasty. :rolleyes: Turns out I turned on the sharpness setting on my video card last night. That is what caused the horrible appearance of aberration on the PC screen. What a bozo. I'm not even sure what it was supposed to do. There is still some aberration, but not as bad as in those pictures.

I also just about made the tilt go away by adjusting it myself. I'm a perfectionist, and I got it just about perfect without having to go into the back of the TV. It is just a tiny bit off in the upper left. Barely noticable.

Originally posted by gtcharlie
Just wondering if anyone knows the dimensions of the box the 52725 comes in? I am getting my furniture delivered this Thursday and Tweeter is having a problem delivering the TV until later next week. I have an Acura MDX and would love to just go and pick the thing up but I have a feeling the box will be too big.

I don't know if you got an answer to this...

I sincerely doubt that the box would fit in that size SUV. I have a Trailblazer, and there is NO way that the box for the 62" would have fit. The first TV I got (a 50" Sony), would not fit in my SUV without any box, and as a result I had to get my dad's pickup to return that one.

Originally posted by umr
Shape,

Your problem looks like chroma delay to me.

Thanks for answering, but like I said in my last post, it was a video card setting that really messed things up.

I think I finally got my brain around how a color wheel timing problem can affect color. Since the color of each pixel is determined by how long a mirror shines that particular color from the color wheel on the screen, if the mirror ends up shining onto the screen after the color wheel shifts to a different color, it can slightly change the color of the pixel. Whew. It works like pulse width modulation to create an analog signal.

I'm a computer engineer, I have to figure this stuff out for myself. :)

This TV doesn't have as much of a green tinge to the screen, so the timing of the color wheel must be better than the last one.

I'm starting to feel better about it. I'm leaning towards keeping it. The idiot tech had just left when I took those pictures and wrote those posts. I was still fuming.

My suggestion was directed at the video card, but I guess I did not make that clear.

You have the idea of color wheel timing.

Hello all....new to this board... I just received my WD-52725 and it's pretty awesome.
I
am trying to get it to display my PC through a DVI to HDMI connection. There may well be a simple answer to this question, but why can't I find a HDMI device imput from the standard device selection screen? I've searched this thread pretty well and found no discussion. I know the manual says the HDMI input is not designed for PC use, but I have the cable and want to try anyways. I've seen some people have done so. I also have a regular 15 pin male - male VGA cable to try when it gets here, which should be more idiot proof since the input clearly says "PC". Anyhow, long story short....

How do I simply select HDMI input for display???? Thanks!

Originally posted by Jefftaz


I ran through the basic calibrations using DVE.
Here are my settings:

For Cable/High Definition and DVD via HDMI:

VNR: Reduction
TV Def Edge: OFF
Color Temp: Low
Contrast: 31
Brightness: 31
sharpness: 20 (there was not much of a difference from 0-63 in the DVE test, I kept it on the lower end if by chance it did introduce picture noise).
color: 31
tint: 25


Jeff

Hi Jeff,
Welcome to the 62725 club. I don't have the DVE disc, just the Sound and Vision disc, and I came up with some similar settings as you list above. Did you make any changes to the Perfect Color settings?

Thanks!

Originally posted by TitoD

How do I simply select HDMI input for display???? Thanks!

It is called MonLink. Not sure why. :)

Let me kno whow the HDMI works. RGB looks awesome since it bypasses all the filters of the TV.

Hmmmm... I'm sure I've tried the MonLink. I'll give it another go tonight. Thanks.

Originally posted by gtcharlie
Just wondering if anyone knows the dimensions of the box the 52725 comes in? I am getting my furniture delivered this Thursday and Tweeter is having a problem delivering the TV until later next week. I have an Acura MDX and would love to just go and pick the thing up but I have a feeling the box will be too big.

I too have a MDX and was told by the store salesman that the 62725 would not fit in the back. Not sure how much of a diff. the 52725 box would be. Why not just ask the salesman to let you measure the box. Also try doing a search, as I think someone asked this once before.

Hey I just found it but I don't know how to link to it so.....:
In case there are others, like me, that want to know the dimensions of the box of a WD 52725.

They are: 55" (L) x 24" (W) x 44 (H)

I search high and low before buying mine, but couldn't find them.

I hope this helps someone.

MBJ

I asked this in the games forum, but I thought I'd see if someone here with the same TV could help me out.

In GT4 I appear to be experiencing dithering at 480p/1080i (I'm not sure if this is the right term, so I'll explain what I'm seeing). Basically, on 480p/1080i the image seems to be composed of long, thin bars. These aren't horribly obvious (more obvious against some backdrops, like the sky), but they are noticable.

Is this to be expected? I know the PS2 is not a particularly capable machine, but are these the kind of things that will happen at higher resolutions? I just got my Mits 62725 a few months ago so I want to make sure there is nothing wrong with the TV.

After seeing this in the game, I tried out some 480p Gamecube games to see if it's a PS2 thing or not. I noticed it very slightly in RE4 if I stared hard at the screen and only then against certain backdrops, not to mention the image was expanded to fit the screen. I didn't notice it at all in F-Zero GX.

Still, I'm concerned about it and would really appreciate it if any one would enlighten me as to whether this is a TV problem or a game/system limitation.

Originally posted by TomTx
I too have a MDX and was told by the store salesman that the 62725 would not fit in the back. Not sure how much of a diff. the 52725 box would be. Why not just ask the salesman to let you measure the box. Also try doing a search, as I think someone asked this once before.


There is no way these TVs (any of them) will fit in the back of an SUV. Especially in the box. The floor is too high on an SUV. You might get it into a minivan.

Originally posted by derailed

In GT4 I appear to be experiencing dithering at 480p/1080i (I'm not sure if this is the right term, so I'll explain what I'm seeing). Basically, on 480p/1080i the image seems to be composed of long, thin bars. These aren't horribly obvious (more obvious against some backdrops, like the sky), but they are noticable.


I'm guessing that the PS2 always uses interlacing internally. For progressive, it probably just displays both of the interlaced fields at once. This would lead to what you are seeing.

For interlaced output, the TV has to convert the image to progressive. I have noticed that particularly on cartoons with 480i input through the SVideo port, the Mitsu tends to deinterlace badly when things are moving quickly. For instance, if spongebob moves from one spot to another on a stationary background, you might see an interlaced image of him in the location where he was, interlaced with the background image.

It doesn't happen all the time. But it seems to happen more often with certain shows when viewed through my DirecTV Tivo. Little Bear on Noggin is a favorite show of my son's, and it does this constantly.

I haven't played enough PS2 on the new TV to see if it happens. I have heard that the 1080i output on GT4 doesn't use double-buffering, which could lead to issues like image tearing. When coupled with the interlaced output, perhaps this is what is causing your issue?

Originally posted by Shape
. . . For interlaced output, the TV has to convert the image to progressive. I have noticed that particularly on cartoons with 480i input through the SVideo port, the Mitsu tends to deinterlace badly when things are moving quickly. For instance, if spongebob moves from one spot to another on a stationary background, you might see an interlaced image of him in the location where he was, interlaced with the background image . . .

Yes - I know some people have reported great results using a 480i signal and the Mits de-interlacer, but I get a lot of jaggies and breakup of images into horizontal lines with a 480i signal instead of 480p (both over component). For example, in "Nemo", the coral has jagged edges and some smaller reef fish break up into horizontal lines when using 480i.

Originally posted by Shape
There is no way these TVs (any of them) will fit in the back of an SUV. Especially in the box. The floor is too high on an SUV. You might get it into a minivan.

Just my experience... I bought a 62725 floor model (no box) and it only fit inside my Odyessey after it was tilted on it's side at a 45 degree angle. That was with all but 1 seat removed. I couldn't convince my wife to stay at tweeter!

Just updated my firmware on my 62725 to .05 over my lunch break. The only thing I had time to notice was that before, if my Denon receiver was set to auto, it wouldn't switch to analog when an analog channel was onscreen. Many reported that it was due to the mits simply muting the digital output instead of actually turning it off.

Well, they must have fixed that, because my Denon is happily switching from digital to analog and back now!

Justin

Originally posted by Shape
I'm guessing that the PS2 always uses interlacing internally. For progressive, it probably just displays both of the interlaced fields at once. This would lead to what you are seeing.

For interlaced output, the TV has to convert the image to progressive. I have noticed that particularly on cartoons with 480i input through the SVideo port, the Mitsu tends to deinterlace badly when things are moving quickly. For instance, if spongebob moves from one spot to another on a stationary background, you might see an interlaced image of him in the location where he was, interlaced with the background image.

It doesn't happen all the time. But it seems to happen more often with certain shows when viewed through my DirecTV Tivo. Little Bear on Noggin is a favorite show of my son's, and it does this constantly.

I haven't played enough PS2 on the new TV to see if it happens. I have heard that the 1080i output on GT4 doesn't use double-buffering, which could lead to issues like image tearing. When coupled with the interlaced output, perhaps this is what is causing your issue?

I have never seen any of the 480i problems that you are describing. In fact, 480i is the only mode that I don't see this weird effect (though it has problems of its own that I KNOW are due to PS2 limitations).

The way you described 480p and 1080i could lead to this, I suppose, but I really have no idea if this is surely the case. However, I don't know that everyone with an HDTV sees this.

It'd be great if someone who had this TV and played GT4 could tell me what they see.

Originally posted by Justintime
Just updated my firmware on my 62725 to .05 over my lunch break. The only thing I had time to notice was that before, if my Denon receiver was set to auto, it wouldn't switch to analog when an analog channel was onscreen. Many reported that it was due to the mits simply muting the digital output instead of actually turning it off.

Well, they must have fixed that, because my Denon is happily switching from digital to analog and back now!

Justin

I just upgraded to .05 last night, and still can't get my Pioneer 1014 to read the digital audio output from the TV. Analog is fine, but Digital and Auto don't produce any sound. Time to call my Mitsu dealer again. My Pioneer works fine with every other component, but I think the next thing they're going to try is bringing out a different brand receiver (probably Denon) and seeing if that works with the TV.

Sheesh...

Originally posted by tbone526
I just upgraded to .05 last night, and still can't get my Pioneer 1014 to read the digital audio output from the TV. Analog is fine, but Digital and Auto don't produce any sound. Time to call my Mitsu dealer again. My Pioneer works fine with every other component, but I think the next thing they're going to try is bringing out a different brand receiver (probably Denon) and seeing if that works with the TV.

Sheesh...

Are you sure that your digital coax input on your Pioneer does work? From what I've heard reported here, setting the reciever to auto always worked fine when viewing a channel with digital audio, it was when changing the channel from digital to analog audio that confused the receivers. If you know that your Pioneer digital coax in works, maybe the digital coax out on your TV is defunct?

Quick question about how you are obtaining service.

I finally decided to get my Tilt issue fixed. Since I bought my 62725 from the Magnolia at BB.. And I got the extended warrenty from them I figured I would try that first. The tech came out and saw the issue and was like ok I need to open the back up and adjust the light engine. I tried to be nice about it and tell him that I don't believe that is the procedure. This is a known issue and requires removing the front screen.


So after talking a little while he decided to call mitsu and they told him no it is not a light engine adjustment :rolleyes: so then he kinda was like uhmm yea I need to look some stuff up I will call you tomorrow.. That was last week. I called another service center today and they said they did not have any knowledge of the issue and would send a tech out to even see if there is an issue with the TV or its a normal DLP characteristic..


So I don't feel like throwing another tech out where can I find someone that is actually knowledgable and competent? What number should I call to get a tech?

BTW I am in the Bay Area.. Mountain View, Ca if anyone has had this issue fixed near by.


Thanks

Hello everyone, this is my first time posting but I've been reading the forum for the past 4 months. Thanks to everyone for all the info in this great thread!

I recently helped my dad pick out a 52525 and wanted to upgrade it to the latest (.05) firmware. He is using the .03 firmware. Is there any way that someone who has received the firmware on CD can upload it? They have done this over in the Panasonic S97 firmware thread, so I thought it could be done here too.

thanks!

Is there any way that someone who has received the firmware on CD can upload it?

No!

Originally posted by Justintime

Well, they must have fixed that, because my Denon is happily switching from digital to analog and back now!


Hey, it works now for my Sony, too! :D

Originally posted by TenthScale

So I don't feel like throwing another tech out where can I find someone that is actually knowledgable and competent? What number should I call to get a tech?

BTW I am in the Bay Area.. Mountain View, Ca if anyone has had this issue fixed near by.


These techs are clueless. I ended up doing it myself. You probably don't have to access the rear tilt adjustment. I fixed all of my tilt by going through the front grill.

You are the only one who really cares enough to get it perfect.

Originally posted by jimrimback
Just my experience... I bought a 62725 floor model (no box) and it only fit inside my Odyessey after it was tilted on it's side at a 45 degree angle. That was with all but 1 seat removed. I couldn't convince my wife to stay at tweeter!

I had to take the top of the box offof my 52525 and it just barely fit into my dad's 95 Nissan Quest. The guy at BB basically wouldn't let me lay it on it's side (in the box) and I don't think it would have fit that way anyway.

I have read that a lot of people have had some issues with the tech reps that come to fix the Mits DLP's. What I did, for all it's worth, was to get the "Service CD" from Mits. Now if any tech comes over to try to fix something and doesn't quite know what to do, I can haul out the CD and can show exactly how to go about trying to fix the problem. I've lucked out and haven't had to use it yet, and I've had only one guy come to replace the light engine on my WD-52725, which he knew exactly what to do. But if ever someone comes and doesn't know, I can spin it up on the computer and put on a show. ;)

Originally posted by Justintime
Are you sure that your digital coax input on your Pioneer does work? From what I've heard reported here, setting the reciever to auto always worked fine when viewing a channel with digital audio, it was when changing the channel from digital to analog audio that confused the receivers. If you know that your Pioneer digital coax in works, maybe the digital coax out on your TV is defunct?

In my efforts to isolate the problem before even calling for service, I tested the digital coax input that I have set up for the TV by hooking up my DVD player to it, and it works fine. I also swapped out the cable to make sure that wasn't the issue. Everything I've done points to the TV output.

While the tech was here and testing it, the receiver would produce sound for a split second after a channel change, then go silent again. He was never able to get it to work, so he went back to the shop to get in touch with Mitsubishi. They sent out the firmware upgrade. It didn't work.

Now today I get to call the service shop again...yay!.....:mad:

Originally posted by tbone526
In my efforts to isolate the problem before even calling for service, I tested the digital coax input that I have set up for the TV by hooking up my DVD player to it, and it works fine. I also swapped out the cable to make sure that wasn't the issue. Everything I've done points to the TV output.

While the tech was here and testing it, the receiver would produce sound for a split second after a channel change, then go silent again. He was never able to get it to work, so he went back to the shop to get in touch with Mitsubishi. They sent out the firmware upgrade. It didn't work.

Now today I get to call the service shop again...yay!.....:mad:

It's the pioneer, not the TV. There is a known issue with the Pioneer receiver having problems with coax digital audio from some Echostar receivers. Now you can add the Mits TV's as well. I had the same problem with my Pioneer in January. Ended up upgrading to a Yamaha receiver. It works great.

Do all pioneer receivers have this issue, or is it only the 1014 you guys are having problems with?

Originally posted by Lombard
It's the pioneer, not the TV. There is a known issue with the Pioneer receiver having problems with coax digital audio from some Echostar receivers. Now you can add the Mits TV's as well. I had the same problem with my Pioneer in January. Ended up upgrading to a Yamaha receiver. It works great.

I was hoping that WASN'T the case, but it sounds like it may be....sigh.....

I am using both the 43TX and 49TXi connected to a Mits 65813 and 52725 with no issues.

I have an Onkyo 676 receiver and it does exactly the same thing when switching channels.

lalakrsfan,

I did not make any changes to the perfect color settings.

After watching about 5 DVDs over the past week I have re-adjusted my tint value, I noticed a slight push of Red with the tint at 25. Right now I have all the settings as I posted earlier but the Tint is set at 29.

Can some one post on how to adjust the perfect color settings. Also has there been a noticible difference in picture quality after making changes to the perfect color?

Thanks

Jeff

I just upgraded to .05 last night, and still can't get my Pioneer 1014 to read the digital audio output from the TV. Analog is fine, but Digital and Auto don't produce any sound. Time to call my Mitsu dealer again. My Pioneer works fine with every other component, but I think the next thing they're going to try is bringing out a different brand receiver (probably Denon) and seeing if that works with the TV.

Sheesh...


Just curiious did you associate the coax digital input to the tv selection on your receiver ? I know on my 912 I had to do this.

Originally posted by derailed
In GT4 I appear to be experiencing dithering at 480p/1080i (I'm not sure if this is the right term, so I'll explain what I'm seeing). Basically, on 480p/1080i the image seems to be composed of long, thin bars...

I'm assuming you are referring to the vertical bars in 1080i mode. Didn't notice them at first but I did notice them the other day. So you aren't the only one seeing them.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
Do all pioneer receivers have this issue, or is it only the 1014 you guys are having problems with?

Just the 1014, AFAIK. I have a 52725. In January (same time I bought the TV) I decided to upgrade my old pro-logic receiver. The 1014 was an excellent deal so I jumped on it. Immediately saw a problem with it when watching digital channels on the TV. After putzing around with different cables and different inputs, I decided to just try a different digital decoder. I had an old Technics decoder that I was using with the old receiver. It worked just fine with the digital out from the TV. So the search was on for a new receiver. Tried a Sony 1000ES. It worked fine, but I didn't like the feature set of the receiver. Bumped up to a yamaha RX-V1500. Love the receiver, and it plays nice with the TV.

A little bit of research has dug up slew of people having problems with the digital out on their echostar boxes and the 1014. Best I can figure is that the 1014 is just really sensitive about signal it gets. Of course, nobody is willing to admit a problem with their product. Neither Pioneer, Echostar, or Mits. Where the real problem lies, I don't know for sure, but it sure looks to me like it's a problem with the Pioneer.

Thanks for the info... I was looking at the Pioneer Elite 56txi and I had heard about people having issues with the 1014tx and certain gear.

Anybody have a pick for a DVD player for 52725?

Guys, I picked up my 52725 the other day and have really enjoyed it. I've tried to nit-pic the display for problems and haven't found anything noticable at all. All vertical lines are straight top to bottom and it looks great. No bright spots (except where the lamp reflects in the screen - remind me to move the lamp), rainbows, etc....

It is firmware .04 so I'm calling tech support to get the new firmware.

Kevin

Originally posted by BigAl
On the PIP/POP...

The TV has a single digital tuner so you can only tune to a single digital channel during pip/pop usage (OTA HD, cable HD or cable digital... i.e. SD channels below 100). The digital channel from the internal tuner can only be in the main pop window but you can put an HD signal from your an external STB in the pip/pop window... I haven't tried this with a HDMI connection but I know it works with a component video connection.

The 3/9 modes are for scanning analog channels to see what's on as previously mentioned.


Can someone clarify something for me? What exactly can be viewed in side-by-side mode? The manual says "Digital channels and devices can be shown as the main picture but cannot be the sub-picture." Can I view 2 digital channels at once? One tuned by the 62725 and one by my HD cable box? Does it matter if the cable box is hooked up via HDMI or component? What about viewing one channel via HDMI cable box and an xbox hooked up via component? Can they be viewed at the same time side-by-side? Thanks for your help. I'm considering purchasing a 62725.

Nick