Originally posted by GizmoSprocket
8 am, Eastern, every Tuesday, HDNet runs a 10-15minute series of patterns with instructions. PVR them on your new 942 and they should help.
...

Thanks for the info.

Originally posted by GizmoSprocket
This is a very interesting subject. I have my DishNet 811 set to output 1080i after trying 720p and getting "jaggies" type of artifacts.
...
I just wish the Dish HD receivers let us choose a 5th option to output in "native" rather than forcing all content into either 480i, 480p, 720p, or 1080i.... this way, when content is sent in 720p, it can be viewed natively. Unfortunately the Dish system never tells what the content's native format is.

Over on DBSTalk.com they have a wish list that E* engineers monitor. I seem to recall that one of their folks has made this request but I don't know when (if at all) it is scheduled to go into a software update.

Originally posted by TomTx
Over on DBSTalk.com they have a wish list that E* engineers monitor. I seem to recall that one of their folks has made this request but I don't know when (if at all) it is scheduled to go into a software update.

Thanks. I will have to check that out...

Originally posted by Shape

Honestly, I think that this is the correct way of displaying 1080i video on a 720p display given how video is recorded with 1080i HD cameras. 1080i cameras sample a 540p field sequentially every 1/60th of a second. And this is how these 720p displays are displaying them. It gets rid of the issue of deinterlacing artifacts. It looks great on my TV with video.

So the TV is actually displaying all the information it is getting. It just isn't creating a 1080p frame to display first. It completely gets rid of deinterlacing artifacts, which is a good thing, IMO.

Agreed- and thanks for the info- it validates what I have been thinking on the subject.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
[BWhat input was used for the calibration. The perfectcolor and brightness/contrast settings are potentially vastly different for the HDMI input as compared to component or the internal tuner. Or, did he only adjust the color gains in the service menu? Those settings are global as far as I know. [/B]
He hooked up the color analyzer on DTV component input, this info was then fed to his laptop. He then went into the service menu and balanced the RBG. He said that these adjusted values would now be the 'default' settings in case of power outage. He used the DVE TO adjust brightness/contrast and gave me the settings for both DTV AND DVD inputs that would be impacted. So It seems that indeed the service menu settings are global as you thought. I did email him in regard to if Iwanted to use hdmi in the future, but I'm guessing that I could always use the DVE to fine tune those settings. He did comment that the processer's in these sets are so good that just using a good progressive scan dvd player should be fine.
I'll update when he contacts me.

My new 62725 arrived today. Two minutes after the delivery guys left I realized that right in the bottom of the screen, in the middle, there is a crooked black vertical line about 2-3" long.

Any idea what this is? Looks like there is a rogue fabric thread or something inside the set casting a shadow on the screen. Sound like something major or can this easily be fixed?

I can probably get Good Guys to replace the set, but since I'm not having any bright spot issues I'd rather keep this one and fix the problem (if it's a minor one) than get a new set and take a chance of getting one with the dreaded bright spot.

Thoughts?

Sounds kinda like the problem I had with my 52725, only my line was in the top right corner. The Tech came out to my house, took the set apart and Windexed the mirrors. He also blew out the area around the bulb but none of that made a difference. They ended up replacing my TV and I had a new one delivered a few days later.

Originally posted by snackman
He hooked up the color analyzer on DTV component input, this info was then fed to his laptop. He then went into the service menu and balanced the RBG. He said that these adjusted values would now be the 'default' settings in case of power outage. He used the DVE TO adjust brightness/contrast and gave me the settings for both DTV AND DVD inputs that would be impacted. So It seems that indeed the service menu settings are global as you thought. I did email him in regard to if Iwanted to use hdmi in the future, but I'm guessing that I could always use the DVE to fine tune those settings. He did comment that the processer's in these sets are so good that just using a good progressive scan dvd player should be fine.
I'll update when he contacts me.

Well, all the component inputs are the same and would have the same calibrated settings so that makes sense. The DTV input is the same as the other component inputs. Do you know exactly what settings in the service menu he modified?

The HDMI input will need to be calibrated differently and DVE will do a good job of that... I have my settings for HDMI posted here for use with my specific DVD player :

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=5549408#post5549408

The 525s and 725s have been out for a while now. I only got mine in March, however. I am wondering if anyone has had to replace their bulb yet in one of these DLP displays.

I know that some people with Samsungs have had pretty bad bulb life in their DLP sets so far.

I am hoping that the large number of fans and much heavier (and hopefully better engineered) cases of the Mitsubishis will translate into longer bulb life from better bulb cooling. Frankly, I can't remember anyone posting about having to replace a bulb in their Mitsu DLP yet.

So, let us know if you have had to replace your bulb yet, how many hours your bulb had on it, and if there were any disasters (power drop, etc...) that led to the bulb's demise.

Additionally, how much does a bulb for one of these TVs cost?

Shape,

You beat me to that posting...

I was wondering the very same thing. I have had my 62525 since August 04, and I am wondering how long this bulb will last me. I have about 1700 hours on it so far. I have the extended warranty with bulb coverage. My biggest fear is that I will be TV-less when it finally does burn out until I get someone out to replace the bulb.

I got my set at Best Buy, and I am curious how they handle the replacements under warranty. It seems like a waste of a house call for someone to install a bulb. The end user is more than capable of this replacement.

Anyone dealt with BB on one of these bulb replacements yet?

Thanks,
Jeff

I have 770 hours on my bulb so far. So far so good.

Jeff, one thing you could do is buy a replacement bulb and have it on hand. Then when your bulb blows, call up Best Buy and say that the bulb blew and you would like a replacement. But put your replacement bulb in the TV until Best Buy can come. Then, the day of the replacement, put the blown bulb back in. :) That way you would always have a bulb on hand for emergencies. You know, "oh no, the TV isn't working and the last episode of Enterprise is on tonight in HD!" emergencies.

Just make sure to say "No" when the TV asks you if you replaced the bulb when you plug the power cord back in. Let the Best Buy guy hit "Yes."

I've read about people having trouble with their fans not turning off when they turn the TV off. I just got mine and the fan runs for a little while after the set is turned off, maybe a minute or so. But even after the loud noise stops I can still hear a faint whirring if I put my ear to the rear or the set.

As far as I've noticed in the 24 hours I've had the TV this whirring is persistent and doesn't go away.

What is making this noise and is this normal?

Thanks.

There is a fan on the cablecard hardware that runs constantly since it is always on.

Jeez, I just found a retailer that sells the lamp! $409! Hopefully that is an inflated price! :eek: That is more than my Best Buy warranty cost! :rolleyes:

http://www.alltvlamps.com/mitsubishilamps.html

The lamp is warrantied for 1 year from the date of purchase of the Television, BTW. So if your lamp fails within that time period, don't call your warranty company. Call Mitsubishi!

For those of you have cleaned or had your mirrors cleaned: What did you use to clean them? I tried to clean the mirrors in my set using optical lint-free pads and some optical cleaning solution. I can't seem to get rid of the streaks though. I even tried some windex to no avail. I got rid of most of the streaks on the main mirror, but the rear mirror still has a few. What have you guys used to clean these mirrors? Mine were not too dirty... but did need to be cleaned... Thanks!

The guy who cleaned mine just used a camera lens cloth, no solution. He told me since it is only dust collecting on the mirrors, no solution is necessary and I only have to wipe the dust off with very light pressure. I made sure to inspect his work before he left and I could not see any streaks anywhere.

As long as the cloth you are using is for glasses or camera lenses, and clean of course, I would buff out the steaks with the cloth by applying more and more pressure on the mirror (don't use solution). Eventually the streaks will disappear and there should be no harm done to the mirror.

Word of warning: I am basing this theory on my experience getting tough spots and streaks off of my camera and glasses. So far no scratches on any.......

I was able to remove the streaks by just going at them for a little longer. I am using lint-free pads called PEC*PADs... people use them to clean CCDs on digital cameras. If they are gentle enough for a CCD, then the mirrors should be no problem.

I did however notice two spots of debris that I could not get rid of. Either they are still somewhere on a mirror, or in the projection system itself. I will be contacting service about these...

Ok, this is much more reasonable. I gave Mitsubishi Parts a call. I gave them the lamp part number for the WD-52525, and they told me the price is $250. $11 something in shipping. And she was nice enough to inform me that the lamp is covered for 1 year under warranty. :)

Still, I'm getting a warm fuzzy feeling from the complete lack of "my bulb exploded" stories being posted to the thread!

Originally posted by Shape
Ok, this is much more reasonable. I gave Mitsubishi Parts a call. I gave them the lamp part number for the WD-52525, and they told me the price is $250. $11 something in shipping. And she was nice enough to inform me that the lamp is covered for 1 year under warranty. :)

Still, I'm getting a warm fuzzy feeling from the complete lack of "my bulb exploded" stories being posted to the thread!

I like the idea of having a spare bulb on hand just in case, but I don't like the idea of paying $250 for a lamp that will be used for insurance purposes. I bought the warranty for bulb coverage (among other things)...

I guess I will just have to suffer when it does burn out, and then complain LOUDLY to Best Buy when they try to tell me the next appointment that they can fit in is in 1 week. :D

I got my 52725 in October-04, and had to have the bulb replaced in March of this year, after about 600 hours. My retailer made a service call and replaced it for me, all under warranty (although they did tell me that the bulb is an owner-replacable part and Mits doesn't normally cover the service call).

I had been watching TV for about two hours that evening, and POOF, the bulb just went, never to be heard from again. I had experienced problems previously with the set shutting down and having to be reset to come back to life. When it did this, the fans also would cut out completely, so it may have had an effect on bulb life.

I have the set plugged into a UPS specifically to protect the bulb from unexpected power-loss. Just prior to the outage, I had upgraded to .05 software which solved my lock-up problems, and the set has been fantastic ever since.

Originally posted by tbone526
I got my 52725 in October-04, and had to have the bulb replaced in March of this year, after about 600 hours. My retailer made a service call and replaced it for me, all under warranty (although they did tell me that the bulb is an owner-replacable part and Mits doesn't normally cover the service call).

I had been watching TV for about two hours that evening, and POOF, the bulb just went, never to be heard from again. I had experienced problems previously with the set shutting down and having to be reset to come back to life. When it did this, the fans also would cut out completely, so it may have had an effect on bulb life.

I have the set plugged into a UPS specifically to protect the bulb from unexpected power-loss. Just prior to the outage, I had upgraded to .05 software which solved my lock-up problems, and the set has been fantastic ever since.

Just curious:

How long were you "Mits-less" while you waited for the replacement bulb?

Originally posted by spiff72
Just curious:

How long were you "Mits-less" while you waited for the replacement bulb?

Bulb went POOF about 10:30PM, my dealer came and replaced the bulb before I got home from work the next day.

Toton's TV in Crest Hill, IL completely ROCKS!

I recently got a Pioneer 1015 receiver and now I have all of my devices hooked to it, whereas before I got it, I had everything hooked to my 52725. Now, the only thing I have plugged into my TV are the 3 component cables into "INPUT-DTV". Now, every time I turn on my TV I receive a message on the screen that says, "Check connections or power. The connections for RGBHV or YPrPb may be invalid"

Everything works great, I just have this annoying message all the time that I have to hit a button on the remote to get rid of.

Has anyone else experienced anything like this?

power on the reciever first before the TV and then you will not get the message.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
power on the reciever first before the TV and then you will not get the message.

Or, if you plug into one of the COMP-1 or COMP-2 component video inputs, you won't get the message either. Is there a reason you are using the DTV input ports?

Hmm. OK, I'll try one of the component video inputs. There's no reason why I'm using DTV, so no biggie.

Thanks!

Just starting to get into my new 62725. Seems like Net Command is basically designed to take over an AV receivers video switching duties. But I'm not seeing a benefit to Net Command over using a decent receiver.

Maybe I'm not getting the point of Net Command (the manual does't do a good job of defining it) but it seems like a lot more wiring between devices and running a bunch of IR blasters to all my components.

Do people generally use Net Command or ditch it and let their AV receivers handle everything?

I just let my Harmony remote do everything instead of netcommand. I just used netcommand to name the inputs.

Originally posted by Shape
I just let my Harmony remote do everything instead of netcommand. I just used netcommand to name the inputs.

Do you plug all your video devices into your receiver and then switch devices in your receiver? Or do you plug all your video devices into the TV and switch video sources through the TV?

Seems like NetCommand is for people who don't have receivers, but I can't imagine people who have this TV and have various video components to switch between, not having an AV receiver.

Would love to hear from a few people about this.

I plug all my video devices into the TV and switch via the TV. The WD-52525 has so many inputs on the back that I don't think I will ever use them all.

Currently, I'm using the VGA input for my HTPC with Media Center. The HTPC is also my DVD player. I have a playstation plugged into the component input 1. And I have a DirecTV Tivo plugged into one of the S-video inputs. Oh, and I have an antenna plugged into antenna input 2, and cable with a cablecard for the cable input 1.

All the sound gets plugged into my receiver. And all sound sources are digital except for analog cable or analog antenna (which I don't use). Those get a stereo RCA cable.

And my Harmony automatically switches inputs on the TV and the receiver when I select an "activity." It works really well. The only thing I don't have the Harmony do is turn on or off the PC since sometimes I want to leave it on, and it only has a power toggle button on the remote. So I have a "Power" soft key on the media center activity that I can use after I select it and the Harmony switches my TV and receiver inputs.

uscpsycho, the benefit of using netcommand instead of a reciever is that it gives you remote control of all your components with one remote (the TV learns the remote control commands for all the devices) as well as audio/video switching. A receiver just gives you switching.

Netcommand is good but I've switched to a harmony remote. The Harmoney is more flexible and it's easier to setup.

Well the service guy came out to check the two small spots of debris I could see on the screen. We checked the mirrors, the lenticular screen, and the anti-glare shield, but they did not move. It seems to prove that there is some debris actually in the light engine. He said he would notify the service center head and then get back to me. These spots are by no means distracting at all as they are only visible from a foot or two away and beyond that, you can't see them. If it does come down to another light engine replacement because of this, it will be a tough decision to go through with it or not. With it being not a huge issue, I don't know if I should proceed with it or not...

I started messing around with netcommand the other day to stall a universal remote purchase. It seems to work pretty well for video input switching but I'm a bit confused on the audio switching side though.

Is it possible to switch from the TV speakers to the appropriate input on the receiver (DVR, DVD, etc.)? The review screen showed everything mapped to the monitor input of the receiver even though I defined the input code for the components during the setup.

I'd love to get multichannel sound out of this. Any netcommand gurus out there?

Shape / Josh

OR - anyone else that is using a DirecTV Tivo with their TV.


Are you running your Audio from your Tivo directly to a receiver or do you run it directly to your TV?


The reason I ask is this:

I run my Audio directly to my receiver and whenever I switch inputs back to the Tivo, my TV gives me a message stating something like "the audio connection can not be established". I know it can't be established..... I don't have my audio running to it.

Is there a way to tell the TV that I am not running audio for this input?
And/Or
Is there a way to not have the TV give me this message?

Thanks

There is a thread about setting up Mitsubishis here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=433919

And, I think if you go to the remote control area there is also a thread on NetCommand (sorry, you'll have to do a search).

I set up NetCommand just before I pulled the trigger on a Harmony remote, and I liked the way it works, so I didn't bother getting the universal. I have everything going to the TV rather than the receiver, and my components are all on the stand right underneath, so running the IR blasters and other wiring was no big deal. There was a little hit and miss during set up, but now it all works very well.

D* TiVo and DVD/VCR combo both send audio to both the TV and the receiver. OTA antenna is connected to both the TV (for HD watching) and to the receiver (for FM tuning). My Denon receiver is the only component that uses the preset commands from the Mits. For the DVD/VCR and the D* TiVo, I had it "learn" all the buttons. Total set up time was probably 2 hours over a couple days.

For the audio, since I have all the sources going to both the TV and receiver, when I change devices I can select between using the TV speakers (when I need to keep the volume down) or the full surround sound (when I want to rattle the walls).

I'm not knocking the Harmony, I just chose to use what came with the TV before laying out yet another $100-$200 for a universal remote. Having tried it, it does everything I need, and it's simple enough that the wife and kids can work it as well. YMMV.

For those of you with the Harmony remotes, which model are you using?

I am thinking of eBaying my Philips Pronto NG (and recharging station) because I never use it. I don't like the lack of tactile feedback from the touchscreen-based remotes...

Maybe I might look at the harmony remotes if I get a decent price for it.

Thanks,
Jeff

The Harmony remotes are pretty cheap these days. They may even still be running a rebate on them. Search on www.techbargains.com for offers. I got my Harmony from www.compuplus.com .

I have the Harmony 680 and do not have one complaint. Push one button and the proper components turn on, and at the same time the other "unused" components turn off (if you want them turned off).

Example: Watching TV and want to switch to a DVD. Push one button and the DVD turns on, the TV switched inputs, and the receiver switches inputs.....all with pushing one button.

The best thing about it is that you plug the remote into your computer via a USB Cable and download all the proper info for each device. The Harmony website takes a little getting used to, but when you do...you can have your remote completely personalized.

It works excellent with Tivo's.

I just bought the new Harmony 880 last week. As with any remote of this type (I assume), getting it all configured in the beginning is a bit of a chore but once it's done, having a single remote that can do everything is very handy.

This is my first foray into the world of the universal remote so I have nothing to compare it to, but my wife is adjusting to it nicely and I think thats the best test.

After about 6 months if use, my 52725 has begun to develop what appears to be the dreaded smudges on inside of screen (or is it inside on mirror).

There is one about dead center from left to right and about 2/3 of the way down from the top from top to bottom. There is another smaller one up on the left upper corner.

I seem to remember that the only way to get at these is from the inside. I can not remember if people are reporting that these are on the inside of the screen shield or if they are actually on the mirror itself.

Have people been fixing this themselves or getting someone to come in and make a service call?

Patch,

Do a search earlier in this thread or another thread in this forum that talks about it.

Your problem is dust on the small mirror. You will have to call a service person to clean it. Watch him carefully, then you can do it yourself after several months later. The fans in the Mits brings dust in and there could be some dust trapped in there from the factory.

Essentially, clean the small mirror with an Ammonia free glass cleaner (photographic lens cleaner works best) and then blow out and vacuum the dust inside the chassis. You should be as good as new.

Originally posted by rsg_1
Patch,

Do a search earlier in this thread or another thread in this forum that talks about it.

Your problem is dust on the small mirror. You will have to call a service person to clean it. Watch him carefully, then you can do it yourself after several months later. The fans in the Mits brings dust in and there could be some dust trapped in there from the factory.

Essentially, clean the small mirror with an Ammonia free glass cleaner (photographic lens cleaner works best) and then blow out and vacuum the dust inside the chassis. You should be as good as new.

I will be doing this myself, soon. I might take a couple of pictures of the mirror and post them here just to see how the dust accumulation level compares to the rest of you who have cleaned yours...

If anyone else cleans theirs soon, please do this too. I would like to see the guts.

Remember to clean the air filter also. I clean mine once a month, but then again I live in Texas. If the filter gets to dirty it can allow dust to get in.

I've got a 62525 that I've had for about 6 months now (sorry to intrude on the 725 thread). A couple of weeks ago, I noticed a new problem (my second, I had the tilt problem, but not the bright spot). On random occassions, the video inputs stop working momentarily. I can switch to another input, and go back, and then it works OK, at least for a short while. The audio and video both go out, and the screen goes to a blue background (although, sometimes, it just goes black). It doesn't do it all the time, or every day. Maybe several times per week. I can hit the device button, and the display will show the inputs that I can scroll through. So I'm confident it's not the bulb or the microdisplay. If it were either of these, even the device menu screen wouldn't show. Plus, I can look into the side of the unit and see the bright light shining out.

I have an SA8000HD cable box on COMP1 and an analog DVR on Input2. This happens on both of these inputs. I have not checked the other inputs, but I suspect the issue is there too. I forget my firmware version number, but it was one of the early ones (the part of the version that has been changing over the months is 001 or whatever).

I've done searches here and couldn't find an answer. Maybe I'm not using the right key words.

Has anyone seen this problem before? Any ideas?

TIA for any advice.

Jeff

My 2 cents:

Get the latest firmware version (V26 004.05) and see if it fixes the problem. Make sure you talk to someone at Mits about the problem and make sure they document it and give you a "Customer Number". That way if the firmware doesn't work you can request a new Chassis be installed.

Mits # (949) 830-8364

Make sure you stay on the line to talk to a rep........may be on hold awhile.

Originally posted by spiff72
For those of you with the Harmony remotes, which model are you using?

I also have the 680. NetCommand worked well enough as a free solution, but I asked for the Harmony as a Christmas present. Love the Harmony. More flexibility for the way I listen to and set up music. I use the same dvd player for movies and cd's. I connect to my receiver with both coaxial and optical digital cables - one into the cd input and one into the dvd input. I have different settings on my receiver for music and movies, and my Harmony is set to use the right inputs and settings automatically. I also use the 2nd zone line out to a second receiver, which powers my patio speakers. I programmed in a "patio" button, so when I press it the remote turns on both receivers and sends the output to my outdoor speakers.

I can also control just about all functions of all my a/v equipment with the Harmony. Not to mention my lights and air conditioner (all ir controlled). Finally, since the Mits xx725's don't come with a program guide, I use the program guide that I download right into the remote. Shows the schedule right on the lcd screen, and I have different channel lineups listed for tv viewing, dvr viewing and dvd-r recording. Now if I could only program it to fetch me a beer . . .

Originally posted by 2left
I also have the 680. NetCommand worked well enough as a free solution, but I asked for the Harmony as a Christmas present. Love the Harmony. More flexibility for the way I listen to and set up music. I use the same dvd player for movies and cd's. I connect to my receiver with both coaxial and optical digital cables - one into the cd input and one into the dvd input. I have different settings on my receiver for music and movies, and my Harmony is set to use the right inputs and settings automatically. I also use the 2nd zone line out to a second receiver, which powers my patio speakers. I programmed in a "patio" button, so when I press it the remote turns on both receivers and sends the output to my outdoor speakers.

I can also control just about all functions of all my a/v equipment with the Harmony. Not to mention my lights and air conditioner (all ir controlled). Finally, since the Mits xx725's don't come with a program guide, I use the program guide that I download right into the remote. Shows the schedule right on the lcd screen, and I have different channel lineups listed for tv viewing, dvr viewing and dvd-r recording. Now if I could only program it to fetch me a beer . . .

Sounds much better than my Pronto.

Would it be able to set things like recording speed for a Sony DVD recorder? It is an RDR-GX7, i think. These sorts of remote functions on the Sony remote are what force me to keep the OEM remote handy (in addition to netcommand).

Also, how does it get the program guide? Via the USB connection? How often do you have to download it?

Thanks,
Jeff

I have a Harmony 676 and I also have an RDR GX7. I do not use the GX7 remote at all... all of the buttons on the remote are programmed into the Harmony. I have separate activities setup for watching DVD and one for Record cable to DVD... if I am watching a DVD the hardbuttons are setup to control DVD playback... if I'm recording from cable the hard buttons control my cable box and all the DVD recorder functions are up in the LCD... it works really well.

I highly recommend the harmony's... any model from the 759 on up... my recommendation would be the 676 or 680 for anyone with a PVR.

Originally posted by spiff72
Sounds much better than my Pronto.

Would it be able to set things like recording speed for a Sony DVD recorder? It is an RDR-GX7, i think. These sorts of remote functions on the Sony remote are what force me to keep the OEM remote handy (in addition to netcommand).

Also, how does it get the program guide? Via the USB connection? How often do you have to download it?

Thanks,
Jeff

Should be able to learn almost all functions of mainstream a/v equipment like Sony. Exceptions may be when you need to press more than one button at a time, or keep a button depressed for a long time. Of my tv, dvd, dvd-rec, pvr, 2 receivers and vcr, about the only time I use my original remotes is when I need to change menu settings on the Mits. Even then, I could use the Harmony if I wanted to.

The program guide is downloaded from Harmony's site via the usb connection. You pick your tv provider and location, then check all the stations for which you want to download guide info. Just like setting up a tv guide on myYahoo or tvguide.com. You can even scroll forward or backwards in time on the remote to see what programs are scheduled. Navigation is instantaneous - you can click through lcd screens as fast as you can press your fingers - so I even use the remote's guide when I am watching my pvr, which has a slower onscreen guide.

Drawback is since the lcd screen is so tiny, you only get program names and not descriptions. Also, you can either scroll seeing channel numbers and names, or program names, but only one of those paramaters at a time. Best if you can keep your downloaded channels to under 20 or so since only three choices will show on the 680's lcd screen at a time.

spiff72 - Forgot to mention how NetCommand perfectly complements the Harmony 680. I kept all NetCommand settings and the IR blaster attached. If I am watching a dvd with a tv baseball game in PIP and hit the programmed "swap" button, the Harmony actually sends the Mits PIP swap command to the tv, but it is the tv that uses NetCommand to switch the receiver from dvd to tv. If I just had the Harmony, the PIP would swap, but the receiver would stay on the dvd setting because I don't think programming multi-device macros like that is possible with the Harmony (of course, other than for the buttons that completely switch the entire system over to another device use - different from PIP swapping).

It's true that NetCommand could do most of the work, but the Harmony is really the icing on the a/v system cake for me. Like a car manufacturer said when asked why so much time and money was spent on the steering wheel - it is the only physical contact the driver will actually have with the car, and it controls the entire car. I think the same could be said of a remote.

Since it is my first universal remote, spending $100 plus for it was strange to me. But since most people with a $4K tv will have at least another couple $K's of a/v equipment, the $100+ isn't much to top off the experience.

I got my first 62725 set on Monday. It was immaculate, great picture, no bright spot, tilt, etc. HOWEVER, it had a blemish on the screen so they had to replace it. Got the new one on Friday and this one has the dreaded halos (picture also seems not as sharp but could easily be my imagination).

Since I know this isn't a problem with all X25 sets, and since I know how good the pictures looks without halos, I will not tollerate them.

I know the green halo thing has been discussed at length. Has anyone found a reliable way to eliminate them? My sense is no. A few people have reported getting rid of the halos with their TV settings, but I'm not sure that's a great way to do it. I don't want to look at whacked out colors in my picture just so I can tweak the set just so to get rid of halos. I want a great picture and no halos.

If you had a halo and got rid of it, or if you know what causes this please let me know! If I can't get rid of the halos I'm not sure I'm going to give Mits. a third shot at getting it right.

Thanks to all of you for the info on the Harmony Remotes...

I have now listed my Pronto on eBay. We shall see if it sells for a reasonable amount.

I think I am probably going to buy a Harmony with the proceeds of the auction (if the wifey doesn't object, of course).

Thanks,
Jeff

Forgive me if I am hijacking this thread with Harmony questions, but I sold my Pronto and picked up a new Harmony 880 last night.

It is working well for me after some trial and error in setting it up, and now my last nitpick with it is that the Mits pops up the message about setting your remote back to Netcommand mode sometimes.

I figure that I could somehow "turn off" netcommand somehow (not sure how yet), but is there any other way to prevent that message?

Thanks,
Jeff

Originally posted by spiff72

It is working well for me after some trial and error in setting it up, and now my last nitpick with it is that the Mits pops up the message about setting your remote back to Netcommand mode sometimes.


Jeff


I have the same problem with my 62525 whenever I change the sound level using any programmed remote other than the one that came with the TV.

I just bump the volume again when I get the message and it goes away.

I never get that error with my Harmony remote. Are you sure that you had the Mitsubishi remote in normal mode when you programmed your universal? Or, if you are using a setup from the database, try re-programming the volume button.

There are 2 modes for the Mitsubishi remote. One is netcommand mode, which is normal. The second mode sets up the keys on the remote to emit discrete codes for switching inputs.

Actually, I just realized I don't control the TV volume with the Harmony. I control my receiver volume with it.

Try to re-learn the Harmony's volume codes with the Mits remote in normal (netcommand) mode.

Originally posted by Shape
I never get that error with my Harmony remote. Are you sure that you had the Mitsubishi remote in normal mode when you programmed your universal? Or, if you are using a setup from the database, try re-programming the volume button.

There are 2 modes for the Mitsubishi remote. One is netcommand mode, which is normal. The second mode sets up the keys on the remote to emit discrete codes for switching inputs.

Actually, I just realized I don't control the TV volume with the Harmony. I control my receiver volume with it.

Try to re-learn the Harmony's volume codes with the Mits remote in normal (netcommand) mode.

I will give that a try. I am using the database commands currently, but I need to get in touch with Harmony's tech support because I am getting a weird Java error when I try to update the remote as of yesterday.

Thanks,
Jeff

Harmony's tech support is top notch. If you can't get through leave a message because they WILL call you back! I got a call back last night, in fact.

Also, if you call before 7:00 EST and leave a message, they say that they will call you back before the end of the day. If you call after 7:00EST, they will call back the next day.

Originally posted by Shape
Harmony's tech support is top notch. If you can't get through leave a message because they WILL call you back! I got a call back last night, in fact.

Also, if you call before 7:00 EST and leave a message, they say that they will call you back before the end of the day. If you call after 7:00EST, they will call back the next day.

LOL. I emailed them with my situation last night, and I just got an email that said they went into my configuration and fixed it. The problem was that I had some some Activity renaming (and some Device renaming), and in doing so, I created devices and activities with the same name! If I had known that this was a no-no, I could have fixed it.

Anyway, I think it is cool that they can fix this stuff themselves.

Kudos to them for tech support!

Thanks,
Jeff

I finally made a decision on a TV after angsting over it for 6 months.

My 62725 will be delivered this afternoon from Sound Advice ( thats Tweeters in Florida)

I got a good price since they price matched Brandsmart.

I guess it got down to a 55 inch Hitachi Plasma and the Mits, I couldn't
find a Hitachi anyplace local so the local dealer made me sway this way.

I also ordered a Harmony 680 remote after listening to comments here.

I have my fingers crossed thatI will get a good set and my biggest problem will be finding time to watch it.

Thanks again for the many insightful posts...

GG

Hi,
This really isn't anything new, but I've been seeing a little more of it lately on my 62725 so I'd like to see if others experience this regularly...I am talking about where the picture seems to be almost segmented. There will be what looks like a seam running top to bottom of the picture, dividing the screen into 2 or 3 parts. It generally lasts just a few seconds, and doesn't happen all that often, but I have noticed a little more of it lately. Is that something I should get looked at, or is it the same for everybody. It really isn't even that annoying, but if it is indicative of a problem I don't want to let it slide. Anybody have any ideas on what the cause might be? Anybody have any thoughts in general on whether it is something I should get checked out? There is, of course, no guarantee that I could even have it happen at the time a technician was there to look at it...
Anyway, any thoughts would be appreciated...

Thanks,
-Randy

Originally posted by IFLYSWA
Hi,
This really isn't anything new, but I've been seeing a little more of it lately on my 62725 so I'd like to see if others experience this regularly...I am talking about where the picture seems to be almost segmented. There will be what looks like a seam running top to bottom of the picture, dividing the screen into 2 or 3 parts. It generally lasts just a few seconds, and doesn't happen all that often, but I have noticed a little more of it lately. Is that something I should get looked at, or is it the same for everybody. It really isn't even that annoying, but if it is indicative of a problem I don't want to let it slide. Anybody have any ideas on what the cause might be? Anybody have any thoughts in general on whether it is something I should get checked out? There is, of course, no guarantee that I could even have it happen at the time a technician was there to look at it...
Anyway, any thoughts would be appreciated...

Thanks,
-Randy

I've noticed the same thing periodically on my 52725, watching D* TiVo via S-video. When I rewind over the same spot in the show, it happens again, so I've attributed it to how the TV is interpreting the signal.

Haven't noticed it watching DVD's via component.

I've had it happen too, but only when using the internal tuner(s). Search this thread for "tiling".

It is like one part of the screen is delayed somewhat with respect to the other part of the screen. I never figured out if it was the broadcaster or the TV or the way I am getting the signal that is causing it.

Originally posted by tbone526
I've noticed the same thing periodically on my 52725, watching D* TiVo via S-video. When I rewind over the same spot in the show, it happens again, so I've attributed it to how the TV is interpreting the signal.


Ok, I have never seen this happen with my DirecTV Tivo. I have a series 2.

Are you sure that it isn't the DirecTV signal that is doing this? I'd be more apt to blame the Tivo thing on DirecTV since rewinding it makes it happen again. Chances are that the tiling is recorded on your Tivo's hard drive. I bet you would see the same thing if you plugged the Tivo into another TV.

My Tivo does switch to black and white every once in a while, though. Pressing pause brings it back to color, so that is the Tivo's fault.

How about that wonderful Tivo/DirecTV picture quality on this TV, eh? :rolleyes:

Originally posted by Shape
Ok, I have never seen this happen with my DirecTV Tivo. I have a series 2.

Are you sure that it isn't the DirecTV signal that is doing this? I'd be more apt to blame the Tivo thing on DirecTV since rewinding it makes it happen again. Chances are that the tiling is recorded on your Tivo's hard drive. I bet you would see the same thing if you plugged the Tivo into another TV.

My Tivo does switch to black and white every once in a while, though. Pressing pause brings it back to color, so that is the Tivo's fault.

How about that wonderful Tivo/DirecTV picture quality on this TV, eh? :rolleyes:

I don't know what the cause is. It could be an artifact that the TiVo is creating in the recording process, or an issue with D*'s signal that the TiVo is faithfully recording, or an issue with how the TV interprets D*'s signal. I'm just adding my .02 to the discussion and describing as much as possible about how/when it happens.

I'm running an HDVR2. Actually, I think the signal quality is pretty good, until I can flip back and forth between the same show in HD and see what I'm missing, then I start getting anxious for an HD TiVo unit (which is a whole other discussion of HR10-250 vs. D*'s upcoming unit vs. potential cable unit).

P.S. I don't have the black and white issue on my TiVo.

Originally posted by Shape
Ok, I have never seen this happen with my DirecTV Tivo. I have a series 2.

Are you sure that it isn't the DirecTV signal that is doing this? I'd be more apt to blame the Tivo thing on DirecTV since rewinding it makes it happen again. Chances are that the tiling is recorded on your Tivo's hard drive. I bet you would see the same thing if you plugged the Tivo into another TV.

My Tivo does switch to black and white every once in a while, though. Pressing pause brings it back to color, so that is the Tivo's fault.

How about that wonderful Tivo/DirecTV picture quality on this TV, eh? :rolleyes:

FWIW, I believe I have seen this out of my Moto 6412 box both live and recorded, connected via component. And I am pretty sure I have seen it off antenna, as well. It very well all could be tied to signal. I have a pretty good signal to the cable box, but we all know that it can vary somewhat before it ever gets to me....

Thanks everybody for the input...I don't really think it is worth worrying about at this point. Especially since I did take the plunge on the extended warranty.... :)

Randy

Today I had my second light engine replaced on the TV. This was because of dust that was found actually in between the lenses of the LE when the tech came by to check out the specks I had on the screen. The replacement went smoothly and took only about 30 minutes. I think I can do one with my eyes closed by now :)

Anyhow, the new LE was clearly marked rev C whereas the old LE was rev B. I could see that there was a slight difference in how the thing was put together. Probably nothing major in terms of differences though. Most importantly, the new LE had NO bright spot just like the last one. The color wheel seemed a tad quieter as well. For some reason black level seemed a bit better on this newer LE than the previous one. I also went ahead and removed the front screen after the tech left and cleaned the dust off the mirrors again. I also took some foam similar to the one found around the collar of the LE and stuffed it around any parts that were not covered well around the area. I think this will help control dust quite a bit and will also keep any stray light out of the projection area. This seemed to help overall absolute black level as well. If anyone has the screen off of their set, this is an easy thing to do. Any foam should work just fine and all you have to do is go around anywhere that the existing foam is not covering fully. This will not only help control dust, but will also help improve black levels.

Now I am considering using some duvetyne or black felt to line the inside of the set... a project for later perhaps once I get my sound setup all together :)

HA... just got a call from Mitsubishi about the QAM tuner recording issues. I guess they got tired of me calling them. Anyhow, nothing new to report. As soon as they have an ETA on the firmware fix, they will notify me. According to them, it will be fixed, but just don't know when.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
HA... just got a call from Mitsubishi about the QAM tuner recording issues. I guess they got tired of me calling them. Anyhow, nothing new to report. As soon as they have an ETA on the firmware fix, they will notify me. According to them, it will be fixed, but just don't know when.

Thanks for the update, Terp.

Originally posted by spiff72
Thanks for the update, Terp.

no problem... :cool:

Guess what? I saw tiling happen with my Tivo input tonight! :) Looks like it is contagious. It did not happen again when I rewound and replayed the offending bit of video, though. So it seems like the TV was at fault.

It is much more pervasive with HD video. The Tivo tiling went away very quickly. Maybe 5 seconds top.

While researching TV's I came across a post about a dead pixel, I believe it was in this forum.

There was some discussion about whether or not a dead pixel is possible. I am on my second 62725 and just noticed what looks very much like a dead pixel. The edges of the "dead" area are relatively sharp and confined to one square pixel.

Good Guys will be delivering a new set next week.

FYI - The first set had a hideous black line about three inches long in the middle of the set along the bottom of the screen. However, the picture was perfect.

This second set has the dead pixel in addition to the dreaded green halos and the picture on this one seems a little bit softer.

Originally posted by uscpsycho
While researching TV's I came across a post about a dead pixel, I believe it was in this forum.

There was some discussion about whether or not a dead pixel is possible. I am on my second 62725 and just noticed what looks very much like a dead pixel. The edges of the "dead" area are relatively sharp and confined to one square pixel.

Good Guys will be delivering a new set next week.

FYI - The first set had a hideous black line about three inches long in the middle of the set along the bottom of the screen. However, the picture was perfect.

This second set has the dead pixel in addition to the dreaded green halos and the picture on this one seems a little bit softer.

Sounds like you have a stuck mirror.

Can someone tell me the reason for the 52725 losing its video settings. I noticed my picture did not look very good this morniing when I turned on the set and was worried something had gone wrong. After checking a couple on things I noticed the video settings for my dvi input had reverted back to their factory settings. I then checked my component inputs and they were still where I had set them. Other people experience this and if so how frequently?

The only time I've noticed the settings going back to factory defaults is if I delete my Netcommand setup.

I don't think that could be it as I do not even use my netcommand. Did you lose your settings on all inputs?

Originally posted by August West
Sounds like you have a stuck mirror.

Is this indicative of a major problem or is it easily fixed?

Should I request that they fix it or take a new set since they are willing to swap it? There's always the possibility that I'll get another set with another problem. Although I'd have to be really jinxed to get three imperfect sets.

gtcharlie,

I recall that if the netcommand config is deleted, all the inputs would be reset.

If I deleted just that input, then just those settings would go back to default. The icon in the device menu would also revert to a generic device too instead of the colorful dvd, cable, computer one.

I'm just following up on the problem I reported in post 2794, regarding my inputs ceasing to work (sometimes momentarily, sometimes for quite a while). Well, I upgraded the software to the latest 05 version. It did not help at all. The problem is still there, with it showing up within minutes of the upgrade. Does anyone have a list of the upgraded features or fixes with the various software versions? Anyway, I'll be calling my local Mits. repair shop to have him come out. He had come out before to fix the tilt problem.

I'll follow up again after the repair guy does his thing, and report what he did.

Originally posted by uscpsycho
Is this indicative of a major problem or is it easily fixed?

Should I request that they fix it or take a new set since they are willing to swap it? There's always the possibility that I'll get another set with another problem. Although I'd have to be really jinxed to get three imperfect sets.

I didn't have this problem but my understanding is that you need a new light engine. I had my chassis replaced and it took about 2 hours. I don't know how long it takes to get the light engine replaced but would not think it would be longer than that. My personal opinion is that if it bothers you you should get it fixed. I don't see this as a "normal" defect that is wthin the bounds of "normal" glitches with the TV. I know some LCD and other types are willing to put up with "dead pixels" as it seems it is pretty common but I don't think this is something you should have to live with with a DLP.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by UMD_Terp
[B]Today I had my second light engine replaced on the TV. This was because of dust that was found actually in between the lenses of the LE when the tech came by to check out the specks I had on the screen. The replacement went smoothly and took only about 30 minutes. I think I can do one with my eyes closed by now :)

Same issue here. Light engine replced once about 3-4 months ago because of LE dust. Now again I have a spot (much smaller this time) that I assume is due to the same problem. Will Mits fix this issue permananetly? It seems a major design flaw and very expensive to them!!Really don't want to keep replacing the engine every 3-6 months. Plus eventually warranty will run out. Anyone know if the new (2006)sets have any different design to prevent this issue. Maybe I can invoke a "lemon law"

I've had the tiling issue for a while. I notice it on most of my inputs though so i don't feel its a tivo issue. I've never been able to duplicate it by rewinding and replaying.

As soon as i get some time i'll probably have it looked at. But it's not too bothersome right now.

Well, for those of you who are curious what a dirty mirror looks like, I finally made the effort to clean my 62525's mirror.

Here are some pictures...

Another...

Another...

One more...

Looks like there are some good opportunities to block off light and dust around that lens.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5657105&fullpage=1

I'll have to open up mine one of these days. Anyone have any instructions on how to get the screen off so you can see this stuff?

Originally posted by Shape
Looks like there are some good opportunities to block off light and dust around that lens.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5657105&fullpage=1

I'll have to open up mine one of these days. Anyone have any instructions on how to get the screen off so you can see this stuff?

The foam block around the lens is supposed to be held in place with some sticky double faced tape on the back of the plastic that surrounds the hole. I tried to pull that foam piece back into position, but the tape would not hold it. The foam seems to have too much shape memory from being in that position too long, and it would want to go back to this position... I probably should have tried a little harder to seal it off...maybe next time I clean it I will try a little harder. I wanted to get it back together to see George Dubya speaking at the Commencement of my alma mater.

SCREEN REMOVAL:

To get the screen off, you need to remove the speaker grille, and remove the access panel that is right under the buttons. I shut off the TV and unplugged it at this point. Unplug the connector behind the panel that runs to the button panel. There are 2 screws that run through the silver panel that need to be removed (these are behind that access panel that you previously removed.

Then you have to remove the screws at the lower left and right corners (these are about an 1-1/2 inches below the bottom edge of the screen, and are covered by the speaker grille normally). There is a black plastic "fork" that points down from above (fork is part of the screen assembly). Now, on the back of the TV, there are 3 screws on each side, and 4 across the top. Once these have all been removed, the screen is actually lifted up and off (there are hooks on the back of the screen that disengage as you lift it, and the "forks" I mentioned earlier need to move up high enough to clear the slots they engage into.

Be careful with the screen, and DO NOT try setting it on its bottom, since the button panel is not strong enough to support it. I turned mine and leaned it carefully against a wall with one of the sides resting on the floor. I cleaned the mirror with a clean cotton tshirt and some premoistened eyeglass wipes. I really think it will never be completely dust free, since it is a surface that faces upward. It will always collect dust as long as dust can get inside.

To replace the screen I had my wife help me lift it back into place, watching the hooks to line them up with the slots on the TV, and making sure the lower "forks" fit correctly into position. Make sure that the wiring harness doesn't get stuck behind the screen. I then reattached this harness, and installed all of the screws in their original positions, replaced the access cover, and replaced the grill. I fired it back up and found a show with lots of white background, and it helped remove those pesky smudges.

YMMV, of course, and if you aren't comfortable doing this to your pride and joy, don't! I accept NO BLAME if you mess something up!

Thanks,
Jeff

I don't know what the cause is. It could be an artifact that the TiVo is creating in the recording process, or an issue with D*'s signal that the TiVo is faithfully recording, or an issue with how the TV interprets D*'s signal. I'm just adding my .02 to the discussion and describing as much as possible about how/when it happens.

I'm running an HDVR2. Actually, I think the signal quality is pretty good, until I can flip back and forth between the same show in HD and see what I'm missing, then I start getting anxious for an HD TiVo unit (which is a whole other discussion of HR10-250 vs. D*'s upcoming unit vs. potential cable unit).

P.S. I don't have the black and white issue on my TiVo.

this is not a tivo issue, i have experienced it when playing xbox on
my 62725. It is rather rare that it happens. Hope there is a fix
coming.

While watching CSI:Miami last night I noticed that in still sceens with a white background, wall or lab equipment, I could see the white areas "dancing"/moving/sparkling.

What is causing this?
What is the fix?

I have the DVE DVD and thought I set it up correctly. Any advice would be very appreciated.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5670123&&#post5670123

Not me...someone else popped into the Old Mits 2004-2005 DLP thread.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5670123&&#post5670123

Not me...someone else popped into the Old Mits 2004-2005 DLP thread.


According to that post, the conditions under which the bulb failed were a bit rough so I guess it is understandeable. The lamp warning on the set it seems is simply driven off of the lamp timers, which is ok if your bulb makes it that far.

I use my TV for no more than a few hours a day on the weekdays and a little more on the weekends. Some days it even goes without being turned on. I have about 800 hours on the bulb and with my use habits, I think I can hopefully hit the 3000-3500 hour mark.

I am approaching the 2000 hour mark (bought it August 04)...

I fear the day that I am TV-less because of the bulb failing. I kind of hope it happens toward the end of the summer during rerun-season.

Service menu question

I brought up the service menus but could someone please tell me what it is I'm seeing?

For menu 2457 I see the following cryptic output:

ISF
AD9883A
12 ROFF 59

(pressing the up and down keys causes the whole menu to turn red and the 59 to change; I left it the way it was!)

For menu 2470 I see

Power Restore: Off
DTV Port: Auto
Direct Key Mode: Off
NetCommand Software: V26 004.03
Digital Signal Strength: N/A

00997 00880 00000 00001 00035

Does anyone know what that stuff means? (Ok, I can guess what the Software version is! ;-) The digital signal strength is understandable, I wasn't feeding a signal to it at the time (had the cable box off.

What I was looking for was a way to tell how many hours of bulb life I've used and how many are left; that wouldn't be the first pair of numbers at the bottom, would it? And how about the other sets of numbers.

Thanks; I tried searching the forum since I figure this has been covered before, but AVF's search sucks; search for "service menu" and you get every post with the word menu in it! Pah!

Service menu question

For menu 2470 I see

Power Restore: Off
DTV Port: Auto
Direct Key Mode: Off
NetCommand Software: V26 004.03
Digital Signal Strength: N/A

00997 00880 00000 00001 00035

Does anyone know what that stuff means? (Ok, I can guess what the Software version is! ;-) The digital signal strength is understandable, I wasn't feeding a signal to it at the time (had the cable box off.

What I was looking for was a way to tell how many hours of bulb life I've used and how many are left; that wouldn't be the first pair of numbers at the bottom, would it? And how about the other sets of numbers.

Thanks; I tried searching the forum since I figure this has been covered before, but AVF's search sucks; search for "service menu" and you get every post with the word menu in it! Pah!

DO NOT mess with the 2474 menu unless you know what you are doing...

The total lamp hours on your TV are 00997. You probably accidentally pressed the OK button when the TV asked if you replaced the lamp after a power loss before. That is what the 00880 number is -- the number of hours on the bulb since that "change" that really didn't occur. I am not sure why you have numbers in the other later columns (the 00001 and 00035). There is no number that says what you have remaining.

Digital signal strength is only valid for the ATSC or QAM tuner internal to the set. It does not work for any external tuner or other source.

A while back I got the firmware upgraded to version .05, and the TV had been flawless ever since. Now, it's developed a new problem over the weekend.

I switched from the D* TiVo input (via S-video) over to ANT-1 to watch some hi-def. The TV was fine until I switched to NBC, then it spazzed out. Wouldn't change channels any more, and the sound was cutting in and out. I hit the "device" button, and it took a couple minutes for the menu to come up, then I was finally able to change back to TiVo, which worked fine. This ONLY happened on NBC. Other channels work fine.

I tried to have it rescan the channels, and it was fine through analog but then locked up on digital-29 and wouldn't scan any more. Had to shut the TV off to get it to respond again.

I'm calling the store today, but wondering if anyone else has had similar problems?

WAF is dropping considerably every time I have to have another service call.

Well, according to the store, sounds like NBC in Chicago had signal problems over the weekend, because their sets were doing it too, and 29 is the digital channel for NBC, which would explain the lock-up when scanning.

I'll give it a couple days to see if it clears up, or if others had the same issue.

Well, according to the store, sounds like NBC in Chicago had signal problems over the weekend, because their sets were doing it too, and 29 is the digital channel for NBC, which would explain the lock-up when scanning.

I'll give it a couple days to see if it clears up, or if others had the same issue.

Good news, tried it last night and everything is fine. TV responds perfectly and was able to rescan all the channels with no trouble.

Looks like it was a broadcast signal issue, not the TV (whew.....)

I just bought an OmniMount CCH-1 center speaker shelf for my 62725. Seems like the perfect solution for getting my center channel speaker positioned properly. Shelf link (http://www.omnimount.com/product.asp?p=152)

The salesman who sold it to advised me to experiment with the installation. The shelf has two support legs in back that attach to the sloped rear panel of the TV (you can see this in the photo linked above). He advised me to mount the legs in an area where the TV's plastic housing would not have any "give." He said that the mirror is attached to the inside of the sloped plastic housing and if the plastic gives in to the weight of the shelf then my focus will be off.

Well, after I got this thing home I realized how thin and weak the plastic housing is on the back of this set. The slightest bit of pressure causes the plastic to bend. Is it OK for the rear housing to flex a bit or will this really mess my picture up? Could there be negative consequences to having pressure applied to the same spot for many years?

This seems like a perfect center speaker solution, but I don't want to do any damage to the TV. Please advise! Thanks!

Looks like Circuit City carries that mount:
http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/OmniMount-Center-Channel-Speaker-Shelf-CCH1B-/sem/rpsm/oid/108951/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do

How Wide is the shelf? I can't find dimensions on the website.

Thanks

How Wide is the shelf? I can't find dimensions on the website.

Thanks


At its widest point the shelf is 19" wide.

Glad to see there is so much interest in others buying this shelf. But maybe you should wait until someone responds to my original question as to whether any problems can be caused by the TV's housing bending from the weight -- especially over many years.

At its widest point the shelf is 19" wide.

Glad to see there is so much interest in others buying this shelf. But maybe you should wait until someone responds to my original question as to whether any problems can be caused by the TV's housing bending from the weight -- especially over many years.

For the last 4 months or so I've had a 20lb center speaker mounted on top of my 52725. I fabricated a shelf simply by taking some sheet metal and bending it. It's 20" wide with a 1/2" lip over the front edge of the TV, then a 12" deep platform back to a bend straight down which then flares out along the back downward angle of the TV. This, combined with the carpet padding I placed between the shelf and the back, has let me operate with no visible distortion to the screen. The combination of the padding for vibration dampening and the large surface area over which the weight is distributed seems to work very well. You can't even see the shelf (since it's painted black) until you get very close.

For the omnimount, I'd be concerned if all the weight of the shelf and speaker are on two small points. Maybe you can use a flat piece of something to distribute it more evenly over the back of the TV. Also, I'd recommend a little padding as well.

Here's where I posted pics of my center shelf set up....

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5225853&&#post5225853

uscpsycho,

Your salesman gave you some good advice to experiment with the leg placement.

I also have the Omnimount shelf and have been happy with it for the last 3 or so months that I've had my 52725. It was a better choice than the Sanus stand I was also considering at the time. Thanks BigAl for the recommendation!

As far as I can tell with my center channel (JBL EC35), the combination doesn't distort the picture much... if at all.

If your legs mount by the Mits logo on the rear panel, the plastic housing does bend more. In my experience, it appeared to shift the picture up a bit. That was the only visual difference I saw.

I'm sure you could correct that with the service menu if you wanted to permanently mount it there. I don't know if there are any long term effects.

What I did instead was to mount the legs above the Mits logo maybe 6 inches or so because the housing is less prone to bend near the top of the TV. The front of the stand now hangs over the front of my TV more but more weight is shifted to the top bezel which is pretty solid.

I never expected my Mits to have perfect geometry since it was a projection set. I've seen geometry distortions on all my friends' projection sets regardless of who the manufacturer was to some degree or another also.

For my 52725... on 4:3 material, the sides bow in by about 1/4" on either side at the worst point. On 2:35:1 material, the bottom letterbox tilts up maybe 1/4" left to right. Using a test pattern grid like on Avia or DVE shows all these distortions pretty clearly.

But I'm curious what everyone else's experience is like?

I never expected my Mits to have perfect geometry since it was a projection set. I've seen geometry distortions on all my friends' projection sets regardless of who the manufacturer was to some degree or another also.

For my 52725... on 4:3 material, the sides bow in by about 1/4" on either side at the worst point. On 2:35:1 material, the bottom letterbox tilts up maybe 1/4" left to right. Using a test pattern grid like on Avia or DVE shows all these distortions pretty clearly.

But I'm curious what everyone else's experience is like?

I haven't taken a straight-edge to it, but 4:3 material looks fine to me.

Using a test patter on full screen, there is a slight tilt, maybe just 1/8", from one side to the other. It's not noticeable on anything except a test pattern, so I ignore it.

The other thing that a test pattern calls attention to is the slight overscan. It looks like I lose several pixels on each side of the screen as well as top and bottom. I'm assuming this is normal, but if not, can it be corrected? Would a normal warranty cover a service call for adjustment?

My picture is a little distorted. When looking at the picture from the side it looks like the pictures curves back into the screen.

And when looking at vertical letterbox lines they are not perfectly straight.

When watching the TV straight on it doesn't bother me. But people watching off-center have noted that the pictures looks curved.

Is this normal for a DLP? Can this be corrected in the service menus or anything like that?

Poking thru the thread, it seems as tho the 62725 doesnt display black, it's kind of greyish. I was going to get a Tosh 62HM84 until we saw the Mits at BB. The reviews we read on the Mits were very positive, it's the black thingie that worries me.

I'm getting rid of my LCD because I can't stand greyblack... do all of the Mits 62725's have greyblacks?

And does anyone know what the contrast ratio is? I can't find it anywhere. In my months of looking for a new set, I've found that sets with poor contrast ratios don't have the CR listed in the specs.

Thanks in advance
Dave

i've gone through a lot of this thread, but can't check all 2,000+ post so can someone answer this:

my friend just bought a Mits DLP and I have a Sony WE610. I made some great tweaks in the Service Menu to make the picture outstanding.

Are there tweaks in the Mits DLP Service Menu to optimize the picture?

if so can someone point me to the info or share it, including how to get into the service menu?

I just bought an OmniMount CCH-1 center speaker shelf for my 62725. Seems like the perfect solution for getting my center channel speaker positioned properly. Shelf link (http://www.omnimount.com/product.asp?p=152)

The salesman who sold it to advised me to experiment with the installation. The shelf has two support legs in back that attach to the sloped rear panel of the TV (you can see this in the photo linked above). He advised me to mount the legs in an area where the TV's plastic housing would not have any "give." He said that the mirror is attached to the inside of the sloped plastic housing and if the plastic gives in to the weight of the shelf then my focus will be off.

Well, after I got this thing home I realized how thin and weak the plastic housing is on the back of this set. The slightest bit of pressure causes the plastic to bend. Is it OK for the rear housing to flex a bit or will this really mess my picture up? Could there be negative consequences to having pressure applied to the same spot for many years?

This seems like a perfect center speaker solution, but I don't want to do any damage to the TV. Please advise! Thanks!


I too had some reservations with the OmniMount when I bought it from UE. I got it home and found out that the back of the Mits 52725 is very soft. I have an Infinity Beta C-360 that weighs in at about 35 pounds and with that weight on the shelf it was really distorted. No problem with the picture but I sure didn't want to take the chance of the back buckling. I went to Home Depot and got a regular 1"X 12" X 36" Black painted wooden shelf, to match the back of the TV. Then I got the velcro patches that are about 2" X 4" and put them on the wood shelf. I put them around the perimeter and center. I used about 6 places. Then I centered the wood shelf on the back of the TV and then placed the OmniMount on the TV and put it's legs on the wood shelf. It works great, with hardly any distortion. Here are a couple of pictures of my "Project". Hope this is a solution to all who have issues with this center speaker shelf. Enjoy!
Lyle

Poking thru the thread, it seems as tho the 62725 doesnt display black, it's kind of greyish. I was going to get a Tosh 62HM84 until we saw the Mits at BB. The reviews we read on the Mits were very positive, it's the black thingie that worries me.
...
Thanks in advance
Dave

I for one don't know what all the concern is over a greyish black. The black on my set is as pure black as I have even seen on any set. Be your own judge. Go to a few different places and see for yourself.

I never expected my Mits to have perfect geometry since it was a projection set. I've seen geometry distortions on all my friends' projection sets regardless of who the manufacturer was to some degree or another also.

For my 52725... on 4:3 material, the sides bow in by about 1/4" on either side at the worst point. On 2:35:1 material, the bottom letterbox tilts up maybe 1/4" left to right. Using a test pattern grid like on Avia or DVE shows all these distortions pretty clearly.

But I'm curious what everyone else's experience is like?

I'm having the same problem with my 62825. I really notice it when a channel has a tickertape scrolling at the bottom of the screen (ie ESPN). Do you if anyone has posted a fix for this. I'm hoping I don't have to have a tech come out.

Originally posted by Ash Halim
I'm having the same problem with my 62825. I really notice it when a channel has a tickertape scrolling at the bottom of the screen (ie ESPN). Do you if anyone has posted a fix for this. I'm hoping I don't have to have a tech come out.

I don't know of any easy fix for this. The service menu only lets you move the picture horizontally and vertically. If you call out a tech, let us know how it goes. I suppose they would move the light engine? It hasn't bothered me enough yet but I may do it before the warranty is up.

I don't know of any easy fix for this. The service menu only lets you move the picture horizontally and vertically. If you call out a tech, let us know how it goes. I suppose they would move the light engine? It hasn't bothered me enough yet but I may do it before the warranty is up.

If tilt is your problem, take a look at http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/show...lt&pagenumber=1

I'm having the same problem with my 62825. I really notice it when a channel has a tickertape scrolling at the bottom of the screen (ie ESPN). Do you if anyone has posted a fix for this. I'm hoping I don't have to have a tech come out.


I have a mits rpcrt and there is a "tilt" parameter under the 2459 service menu. I think its item #4. I had a slight tilt also noticeable on ticker scrolls , but adjusting the "tilt" parameter seemed to take care of it.

Does anybody know what the most current firmware is for the Mitsubishi xx725 DLP is?

I walked into my local Best Buy the other day and saw that they had turned part of the store into a Magnolia! I went in to check it out. They had the 725 and 825 on display in there, and they looked positively gorgeous. I went out into the normal store and found the 52525 and it looked awful. The colors were washed out. Every 52525 I have seen on display in Best Buy or Sears looks awful compared to the competition. But the 525, 725, and 825 all have the same exact light engine and processing!

I end up getting a twinge of buyer's remorse (especially after seeing the latest prices on these TVs) every time I go into one of these stores because they look so bad compared to the competition. But then I remember that mine has a gorgeous picture. :)

Do Samsung and Sony go into these stores and mess with the competing displays until they look awful? :)

I walked into my local Best Buy the other day and saw that they had turned part of the store into a Magnolia! I went in to check it out. They had the 725 and 825 on display in there, and they looked positively gorgeous. I went out into the normal store and found the 52525 and it looked awful. The colors were washed out. Every 52525 I have seen on display in Best Buy or Sears looks awful compared to the competition. But the 525, 725, and 825 all have the same exact light engine and processing!

I end up getting a twinge of buyer's remorse (especially after seeing the latest prices on these TVs) every time I go into one of these stores because they look so bad compared to the competition. But then I remember that mine has a gorgeous picture. :)

Do Samsung and Sony go into these stores and mess with the competing displays until they look awful? :)

Thats kind of funny, since the I always wander over to the TV's to look at the competition and see if they have dropped the price very much since I bought my 62525 in August last year.

I looked at everything there and I still think the Mits looks the best next to all of the competing TVs there. I suppose they just don't have a good selection, but I am pretty happy in my ignorance... Plus the price has only dropped about $700 since I got it. I think that is pretty good considering my usual track record with this sort of thing!

Hi all,

New 62725 owner here. I thought I might recount my experience so far. Received the first set on 6/23 during installation (Sound Advice) of fairly major A/V upgrade uncluding the 62725, Denon 3805 and 2910, D* HD receiver, Sonus Faber speakers, Velodyne subwoofer, Pronto Pro Remote, and Niles audio distribution amplifier. Set manufacture date November '04. Set looked beautiful. No tilt, smudge or any problems I could identify. After running about 50 minutes the set suddenly cut off. Red Lamp light came on. Resets, removing power, etc. were all to no avail. Since they were in the middle of the install, SA brought a new set the next morning.

The new set also has the November '04 manufacture date. Rapidly noticed the "smudge" problem. This morning, on power up, the set refused to start, the lamp light came on and evidenced the "firmware problem." A system reset fixed the immediate problem and I got the lamp replacement question as well. I will inform SA of these issues today. I guess my question for the forum based on the problems is....should I demand a new set or a service call? The problems seem fairly minor to me but I am concerned.

Edit added note: The Mits was not the only thing that evidenced problems during this install...the Velodyne 1200 also failed to work. The fix for that item is pending. As an additional comment the SA guys were knowledgeable and professional and I give them great marks so far.

Hi all,
<snip>
The new set also has the November '04 manufacture date. Rapidly noticed the "smudge" problem. This morning, on power up, the set refused to start, the lamp light came on and evidenced the "firmware problem." A system reset fixed the immediate problem and I got the lamp replacement question as well. I will inform SA of these issues today. I guess my question for the forum based on the problems is....should I demand a new set or a service call? The problems seem fairly minor to me but I am concerned.

Edit added note: The Mits was not the only thing that evidenced problems during this install...the Velodyne 1200 also failed to work. The fix for that item is pending. As an additional comment the SA guys were knowledgeable and professional and I give them great marks so far.

Since SA has been very good with you to this point, I would see what they suggest...it sounds like they want to do what's right to make you happy. Do you have a 30 day return option with them? If so, I'd make sure to ask for a full 30 days from when they either fix your current set or give you a replacement.

As for the lamp replacement question, you'll see that after any power loss or when the set resets...it is no biggie, at least not in my experience. I've had my 62725 for quite awhile now, and have had very, very few problems with it. I haven't even upgraded my firmware (if it ain't broke...). If they can get things ironed out for you, one way or another, you'll love this TV!!!

-Randy

Greetings,
I too am a new 62725 owner. Unit delivered 6/18/5 with a build date of Jan./05. I have logged only a few hours on it but, one can see a large, football shaped white blotch with slight red and green "fringe" residing in the lower middle of the screen. At this point it is a deal breaker. All other aspects appear good, picture is level and relatively centered, heard some ominous popping (sounds like a large capacitor arching) but this hasn't reoccurred. I have 30 days to decide my best course of action. The blotch is easily visible during dark scenes and must be delt with. Should I demand replacement and chance the various other problems that I don't presently have or, if offered, accept repair.
Looking forward to any advice owners could share.

Greetings,
I too am a new 62725 owner. Unit delivered 6/18/5 with a build date of Jan./05. I have logged only a few hours on it but, one can see a large, football shaped white blotch with slight red and green "fringe" residing in the lower middle of the screen. At this point it is a deal breaker. All other aspects appear good, picture is level and relatively centered, heard some ominous popping (sounds like a large capacitor arching) but this hasn't reoccurred. I have 30 days to decide my best course of action. The blotch is easily visible during dark scenes and must be delt with. Should I demand replacement and chance the various other problems that I don't presently have or, if offered, accept repair.
Looking forward to any advice owners could share.


get a replacement.

Ditto.

Received my 62725 yesterday and I am very happy with the PQ.
Build date: Nov 04
FW: 004.05
Bulb: 40 hours

The image is centered and overscan is 3%. I do have a slight tilt, which is easily fixed and I noticed a few smudges (5 pixel diameter).

I have noticed this "Sparkling Effect" on my Mits and would like to know if any of you have the same problem?

I notice it on OTA HD and on DVD's (progressive scan) hooked up via Component cables. I notice it more during bright scenes or with white backgrounds. I also think it is affecting overall PQ. I can sometimes see the sparkling on the actors faces.

I sit approx 12-15 feet back from the TV and can still see it. I have also tried changing the "Defining Edge" and "Video Noise", but they don't do anything.

When I toggle between the two "Video Noise" selections, the PQ clears up for a split second when I select "Standard", but then reverts back to the less clear picture.

What should I do?

Turn down your sharpness to about 20-25.

Chances are that you notice the "sparkling effect" on FOX HD more than other channels. On Fox it is due to them using lower video bandwidth than other stations, in general. FOX's picture quality leaves a lot to be desired, but that is all supposed to change soon as they ratchet up the bandwidth they send to their stations.

Basically it looks like random noise in fields that should be a single color or a gradient, right?

As for DVDs, I suspect that these are poorly encoded DVDs? I noticed it while watching Lock Stock and 2 Smoking Barrels last night. The picture was supposed to be harsh as that is what the director wanted, but the DVD included both a widescreen version and a 4:3 version on the same disc, which meant that the movie was overly compressed. That seems to lead to this random noise issue. DVDs with a lot of special features might have the same issue. But I bet that if you put in the Superbit version of Spiderman (no special features), it would look incredibly clear with no noise at all.

And yes, as ducati mentioned, the sharpness filter in the TV can exacerbate this issue.

Thanks for the quick replys.

Sharpness is at 2. I used DVE for calibration. Probably should have mentioned that.


Shape,

I do notice it more on FOX HD. Watched me some NASCAR yesterday.... noticed it more during interviews, where it was not noticable during the race scenes. Any reason for this?

Yes to your second comment about random noise in fields that should be a single color. Does everyone experience this? Is this "normal" for this TV?

As for the DVD, it was Hitch. It did have special features. How does special fetures affect PQ?

Thanks again.

Special features take up room on the DVD that could have been used for the movie instead. Less space for the movie means that it has to be compressed more than it might have otherwise been.

One would think that this noise would mean that more bandwidth would be used because of larger differences between the previous and current frame, but for some reason it doesn't work that way. :confused:

Shape,

So do you experience the random noise in fields that should be a single color or gradient?

Yes, but it varies from source to source. I never see it on Pixar animated movies, for instance. I suspect that is because animation tends to compress really well. Tarzan in HD on ABC looked AMAZING, for instance.

FOX HD is definitely the worst, but I see it on other channels to lesser degrees. It is also worse on cable than it is on broadcast TV because cable companies re-compress the signal. :(

Shape,

So do Dual layer DVD's produce a better or worse picture?

For example: the two Pirates of the Caribbean DVD's listed in the link below

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?id=cat12085&type=page&sc=Movies&qs=pirates+of+the+caribbean&cp=1&sp=Relevance&mipp=25&uq=Pirates+of+the+Caribbean&_requestid=63173

Is there a way to tell which DVD would have better PQ?

Thanks again.

I believe the $27 version is a 3-disc set containing the original 2-disc set plus a 3rd disc with more special features. So I doubt there is any difference in the movie itself.

Generally, the best quality will be a "superbit" version, if you can find one. They are relatively rare and are limited to sony (?) I think.

This is my understanding of the DVD layering stuff...

Dual layer holds twice as much data as single layer. Most DVDs today are dual layer because of the movie length, audio options, and amount of special features included. The degree and quality of the encoding/compression at the DVD authoriing studio is what determines the quality of the playback. I suppose there may be tradeoffs involving some degradation of the movie content in order to fit everything they want onto the media. If, for example, they're right on the verge of being able to squeeze the content onto a single layer DVD, I suppose that's strong incentive to do so, since single layer media is probably a lot less expensive to mass produce. But if, for example, they're already determined they'll need a dual layer media, there is little point in compressing the movie data more aggressively (meaning lower quality playback) if they don't have to. In other words, once they commit to a dual layer, it doesn't change the mass production costs if they use 10% or 90% of the available storage on the 2nd layer.

IMHO..

Shape,

So do you experience the random noise in fields that should be a single color or gradient? Well I'm not Shape, but I do not see what you see. What you describe sounds like too much gain on the incoming cable, but that only explains it for analog NTSC broadcast channels, not the digital ones or your DVD. Could I suggest you respond with the following data to help people better understand your setup:

1) The TV's video settings for sharpness, color, contrast, brightness, definedge, etc? Also your perfectcolor settings if you're using it. These settings can be different for each video input on the TV

2) Are you seeing the same sparkle issue on multiple video inputs? For example, both DVD and TV?

3) When you see the sparkle on broadcast channels, are you using the TV's tuner or a set-top box from your cable or sat company?

4) Same thing occur on all HD channels or just certain ones?

5) Finally, what brand of cables are you using to connect video into your TV?

There are plenty of clever folks on this forum who can probably troubleshoot your problem given this data. Just a suggestion. ;)

HTBruceM,

I appreciate your post and always welcome anyone's input/advice no matter how vague or technical.

I will try to answer your questions as best I can, but might have to repost later this evening with specifics.

1) I used DVE to calibrate my DVD input. I used these same settings for my OTA input, which I use for HD. I know that these inputs are different and should more than likely have different settings, however, there is no test signal via OTA for calibration purposes. I have the exact numbers written down at home and will have to post them later if need be.

2) Yes I see the sparkle on multiple inputs.

DVD's are hit and miss, some worse than others. I have not had the chance to pop in a Pixar movie yet. Shape said he did not have the "sparkle" on these movies.

As for my OTA HD sparkling effect, Fox is very bad. The difference between the OC and CSI is very evident. However, I still notice the "Sparkling Effect" in some scenes of CSI, mainly white backgrounds (i.e. walls or lab equipment).

3) I use the TV's built in tuner for my HD. Run RG6 from a Channel Master 3018 to a Channel Master 7777 pre amp (antenna mast part), and then RG6 to the pre amp wall unit, and then directly to the TV. (Really hope that just made sense) Basically I am running RG6 directly from the antenna to the TV, but have a pre amp involved. I am using the pre amp because I had two or three local channels that would "Digitize" or break-up every 10-20 seconds. Antenna is mounted outside on top of my chimney (two story house).

4) Sparkling can be seen on every channel. Fox is the worst and is more evident, but the sparkling is noticable during certain scenes on the other major broadcasts as well. The sparkling is really only noticable during a still scene with a solid background. White and Blue backgrounds are the worst.

5) Cables: DVD player is connected directly to the TV via Monster Component Cables. The Monster cables are the THX Certified kind. Friend of mine had some and gave them to me. Is there a difference between Monster THX Component and regular Monster Component cables?

As mentioned above, HD is via OTA which is RG6.


Hope this helps. Really hope it makes sense. Thanks to all!!

A follow up to question 1 in the above post.

Settings:

Tint - 26
Color - 35
Sharp - 2
Brightness - 47
Contrast - 39
Def. Edge - On
Video Noise - Standard
Color Temp - Low

Magenta - 38
Red - 43
Yellow - 45
Green - 37
Cyan - 39
Blue - 32

Black Enhance - On

IMO, the best way to calibrate the set using DVE is to leave all the color and tint settings at the middle and then use the PerfectColor settings to set the color filters individually. This will give the most flexibility in adjusting the primaries.

The HDMI and internal tuner settings are vastly different in terms of pretty much all the settings, so you will need to calibrate each input separately.

Wow, nothing obvious stands out as the possible reason for what you're seeing. Perhaps if you turn off Definedge and increase your viewing distance?

Do other people see it besides you? Maybe you just have very sensitive/fast eyes and you're detecting some flicker...

If the same sparkle is present on both component (from DVD) and the ANT inputs, then its something common. Perhaps some locallized EMI source (magnetic interference) affecting the TV, some strange noise on the 110vac (doubtful), or there's always the possibility of a defect in your TV.

Anyone else have some troubleshooting suggestions for this poor guy? Maybe it's just a Texas thing ;)

UMD_Terp,

When you used DVE, were you able to get the "yellow" balanced out in both the green and red filters (with Color and Tint in the middle)?

Anyone else?

With my color and tint in the middle I could not get the yellow to match the background in both the green and red filters. If I got it to match one it would stand out on the other, and not just a little bit. Solutions?

UMD_Terp,

When you used DVE, were you able to get the "yellow" balanced out in both the green and red filters (with Color and Tint in the middle)?

Anyone else?

With my color and tint in the middle I could not get the yellow to match the background in both the green and red filters. If I got it to match one it would stand out on the other, and not just a little bit. Solutions?


I think I was able to get the green filter setting dead on. I see some error in the red channel, but I got it as close as possible. I could not change this or fix this error by changing the tint/color since that threw off the other settings in the green and blue channels.

I will try setting it up with the green filter and see how it looks. Thanks again.

See the same problem (dithering, dancing ants). Slight dark gradients are real bad. Using PC input VGA. Calibrate with Avia. I'll try DVE. Very obvious in color gradients test on Avia. Turning contrast way up (55+) seems to aleviate some problems. Component not as bad. Component much brighter than VGA. Waiting to calibrate with ColorVision Spyrder TV. Lower quality DVD's using PC input are also very bad.

See the same problem (dithering, dancing ants). Slight dark gradients are real bad. Using PC input VGA. Calibrate with Avia. I'll try DVE. Very obvious in color gradients test on Avia. Turning contrast way up (55+) seems to aleviate some problems. Component not as bad. Component much brighter than VGA. Waiting to calibrate with ColorVision Spyrder TV. Lower quality DVD's using PC input are also very bad. VGA is an analog RGB signal path. By using DVDs on your PC, I suspect you are relying heavily on the PC software decoding and PC video adapter driver/hardware quality. I wonder what you'd see if you ran some sort of PC-software based test patterns (i.e. not via a DVD player application) and see if you still have major issues there. That experiment would isolate the DVD player app & software decoder from the equation. If I recall the block diagram, I think by using the VGA input, much of the video processing circuitry in the Mits is bypassed; going straight to the final A/D before the light engine. Might explain why component looks better to you.

Not really sure, but IMHO, this sparkle effect sounds like a byproduct of some A/D or D/A conversion somewhere.

For those of you who see this sparkle effect... are you seeing this at normal viewing distances? I can honestly say I see some of this on some video material, but only if I walk up to the screen and inspect the image from a few feet. I had assumed this was true of most fixed-pixel display technologies that must convert an analog source signal.

Lastly, it would be really interesting if someone could take their source device (PC/software/media, or DVD player, etc) to a store and compare between TVs. I'd be curious if this effect is due to inherent DLP technology, or a Mits video circuitry design.

I observed two things this weekend that are leading me to believe that the "sparkle" effect is source related.

Watched Pirates of the Caribbean. Picture was spectacular, absolutely no sparkle at all. Compare this with the movie Hitch, which had horrible PQ (sparkle) on my Mits. By the way, I rented Hitch from B-Buster. Do B-Buster movies typically have worse PQ?

I bought a HD Tivo. ESPN HD and Discovery HD have no sparkle, unless they show a SD scene, then some sparkle can be observed. While watching "Chasing Lance" on Discovery HD I notice that the TV seemed to have problems focusing during scene changes. It would take a second for the picture to focus properly. It was more evident during scenes with a lot of movement. Is this typical?

There was one show or movie on that was broadcast in HD that had a lot of sparkle and the resulting PQ was horrible. I imagine that this was due to how the show was filmed and/or broadcast. I recorded it on my Tivo and will post the name of the show later this evening. If it comes on again, I would be curious to see if any of you see the "sparkle" and/or poor PQ.

I sit approx. 13-15 feet from the TV. I can clearly see the sparkle from this distance.

Thanks.

Mitsubishi 62725 #2!
(Please see post dated 6/25/05)
Popping sounds continued and bright spot never changed then set refused to come on and had to be "hard booted". That's no way for $5K of technology to perform. A phone call later and the new set was to be delivered on 7/3. While waiting I installed a Channelmaster antennae and dialed it in using "Menu 2070". All digital channels came in at 9-10. New set arrived (build date Oct. 04) and I find that the "Menu 2070" doesn't function.
Could this be the difference in software? First set was 4.05 this set is 4.03.
On the plus side, the screen, with no signal, appears completely smooth with no bright spots or uneven glowing. BIG difference! Picture is shifted 3/4" to the left of center but seems level. I've not had an opportunity to DVE calibrate it yet so I'm going with the settings of the first set. Looks close enough for the first few hours of burn in.
Last night, however, the controls froze up. (ALL controls remote and front panel) The set then turned itself off. I waited for the green blinking to cease, turned it back on. All (at this time) seems well.
Will Mits. automatically send me an upgrade of software? Will that correct the signal strength meter for digital channels? Can i assume that, if nothing else, the "bright spot" issue is moot?
I'm starting to feel a little jittery about these sets ... like maybe they aren't ready for prime time!
As always, I appreciate the advice.

El Sobrante is near the San Francisco Bay Area, between Orinda and Richmond in the East Bay.

where did you get your tv at? Did you go to Best Buy in Pinole or Fry electronic in concord?

Mitsubishi 62725 #2!
(Please see post dated 6/25/05)
Popping sounds continued and bright spot never changed then set refused to come on and had to be "hard booted". That's no way for $5K of technology to perform. A phone call later and the new set was to be delivered on 7/3. While waiting I installed a Channelmaster antennae and dialed it in using "Menu 2070". All digital channels came in at 9-10. New set arrived (build date Oct. 04) and I find that the "Menu 2070" doesn't function.
Could this be the difference in software? First set was 4.05 this set is 4.03.
On the plus side, the screen, with no signal, appears completely smooth with no bright spots or uneven glowing. BIG difference! Picture is shifted 3/4" to the left of center but seems level. I've not had an opportunity to DVE calibrate it yet so I'm going with the settings of the first set. Looks close enough for the first few hours of burn in.
Last night, however, the controls froze up. (ALL controls remote and front panel) The set then turned itself off. I waited for the green blinking to cease, turned it back on. All (at this time) seems well.
Will Mits. automatically send me an upgrade of software? Will that correct the signal strength meter for digital channels? Can i assume that, if nothing else, the "bright spot" issue is moot?
I'm starting to feel a little jittery about these sets ... like maybe they aren't ready for prime time!
As always, I appreciate the advice.

1. The code for the so-called "options menu" is 2470, not 2070. I don't know if you typo-ed that or if you are trying the wrong key sequence.

2. You should call Mits to get the latest firmware. There were some remote control freezeup issues that were corrected with a firmware change. Mine has been flawless since I got the 004.05 update. If you have any trouble (which I doubt), tell them about the fact that the TV sometimes fails to respond to remote control commands.

Good luck!

Spiff72,
True, it is 2470. I had incorrectly typed it but properly, repeatedly, punched it in to the remote to no avail. Thanks for the suggestion strategy on requesting updated firmware. I think when dealing with large companys or bureaucracies ones success is more often based on how something is attempted rather than the fact that something is deserved or required.
I really appreciate your advice. I'll keep the forum advised.

Spiff72,
True, it is 2470. I had incorrectly typed it but properly, repeatedly, punched it in to the remote to no avail. Thanks for the suggestion strategy on requesting updated firmware. I think when dealing with large companys or bureaucracies ones success is more often based on how something is attempted rather than the fact that something is deserved or required.
I really appreciate your advice. I'll keep the forum advised.

You probably know this too, but make sure you are pushing the "TV Menu" button before the number sequence (not the "device menu" button)...

Yeah, I've got the input sequence down; it's just that the set doesn't respond. I'll contact Mits. today concerning the upgrade.
Incidentally, I placed a 20 watt, 24" fluorescent light (65k in temp) behind the set and the results were superb! I HIGHLY recommend this. In my viewing environment, this small change altered every aspect to the positive. The appearance of colors and detail improved dramatically and the negatives of the diamond screen (the mirror-like reflectivity) completely vanished! This point cannot be overemphasized. It was like magic! My wife prefers the protective screen on for appearance and protection, I, of course prefer it off. However, I do appreciate the protective aspects it offers. This bias light is the perfect compromise.
Next step ...contact Mits.

Hi,

I am getting my 52725 really soon, can you guys recommend what type of hdmi cable i should use? What do you guys think about monoprice.com cables? thanks

www.ramelectronics.net for good cables at good prices...

Hello..

I need some advice.

I'd like to get the 52725, but now there's all this talk of how great 1080p is going to be.

Should I wait longer for the 1080p sets? How long until the xx725's "seem" outdated?


(..confused..)

If I was ready to purchase right now, AND I was ready to spend up to $4k, I would definitely wait until the 1080 sets come out. I suspect the 720 sets will be pushed down lower in price, so if you are price sensitive you should be able to snatch some nice deals on 720 sets once the 1080 sets are available in volume. But like I said, if you are prepared to spend enough coin for a 1080 unit, I would absolutely wait.

IMHO, given the presence of both 480p(DVD) and 720p/1080i(broadcast) as program source material, I'd rather see 720p on a 1080 set than 1080i on a 720p set. Even the reduction in screen-door-effect is enough justification if you ask me!

I don't know if this an issue with the TV or my dvr. But maybe someone can shed some light on this. Only on the DVI connections from my COX motorola DVR, and only on the HD channels, there is a lot of what I would call static, it is even displayed on recorded events that didn't have the static before. If i watch SD i don't notice it, if I watch HD via another source it's not there. I connected the COX motorola DVR up via component and its not there either.
The only other dvi connection i have is a computer and I haven't had a chance to test it yet. I haven't tested another cable yet either.
I'm really just asking if anybody has experienced this. It is in the dvi path, but i don't know if it is in the dvr, the cable or the tv.

I need some help, are there any Mitsubishi DLP owners that are using a panasonic s97 DVD player. My HD upconversion looks terrible so I've been using the component 480p. I should've just stuck with my RP62. Anyways is anybody who uses this combination could you please post your settings so I can match them up against mine. thanks

~james

Try sending in 480i and see if it works better. Though, my 480p Samsung looks great on my 52525.

I just have to say that Battlestar Galactica looks absolutely amazing in HD on this TV! :eek: Incredible contrast and color. Why can't NBC show it in HD all the time?! :( SciFi's picture quality on DirecTV is abysmal. :(

I need some help, are there any Mitsubishi DLP owners that are using a panasonic s97 DVD player. My HD upconversion looks terrible so I've been using the component 480p. I should've just stuck with my RP62. Anyways is anybody who uses this combination could you please post your settings so I can match them up against mine. thanks

~james

James you need to connect with HDMI.
I have my S97 connected with HDMI and outputing 720p and the picture is great.
For settings I use Auto2, Cinema 2.
Also make sure you have updgraded your firmware on the S97.
Do a seach on Panasonic Firmware here in AVS.

Good luck.

For those of you who have a HD Tivo hooked up to your Mits. When you switch your HD Tivo from 720 to 1080, do you get a delay between displaying these formats?

When I switch from 720 to 1080 I get a scrambled screen for about 1-2 seconds followed by a blank black screen for about 2-3 more seconds.

Thanks again.

I don't have an HD Tivo, but I do have an HD satellite receiver from Dish Network (the 811). If I switch from 720p to 1080i (or vise-versa), I get a scrambled picture for a second or two and a blank delay. Probably about 3-4 seconds total time to switch...

I am pretty sure that it is normal behavior as the TV regains its sync with the video signal.

I'm about ready to make the jump to HD TV with the 52725...!

Can someone give me advice on the latest serial numbers to look for, or manufacture dates? I read that the "bright spot" in the center of the screen has been corrected with the latest sets that are out.

I tried searching for the info, but couldn't find it...


Thanks! Can't wait .......

Joe,
I'm not sure there exists a true correlation between the date of manufacture and bright spots, but, for your information, my first Mits. date was Jan. 2005. I returned this for bright spot issues, among other things. My second has a date of Oct. 2004 and the screen appears perfect.
Best of luck ... and luck may play a LARGE part of this!

Joe,
I'm not sure there exists a true correlation between the date of manufacture and bright spots, ...... ... ... Best of luck ... and luck may play a LARGE part of this!
Thanks for the reply. How do I check for the "bright spot"? Does there have to be a signal, or can it just be powered On?

I'm hoping I can get the salesman to turn on the set before I take it home, so I can look for this "spot".

If you bought your Mits in the last 60 days, they had a dramatic price
reduction and you should get a check back for the difference.

You just might want to check into it. I thought I got a great
deal on mine and I am getting about $300 back so its all
the better deal.

take care

Garry

Thanks for the reply. How do I check for the "bright spot"? Does there have to be a signal, or can it just be powered On?

I'm hoping I can get the salesman to turn on the set before I take it home, so I can look for this "spot".


The football sized and shaped spot I had was easiest to see in a dark viewing enviroment, with the set on but no video signal. Example: the screen viewed when switching channels. One could also see it during very dark scenes such as a shot of outer space.
It's obvious if you have it.
...well it was with mine.
Perhaps Clint Eastwood said it best:
"Do you feel lucky?"

i bought mine from a company on ebay, does it count? Where is the $300.00 come from?

Does the frame for the xx725 look the same as the xx525 with the protective screen removed (ie ugly)?


Does the Mits SF-xx trim kit work for the xx725 (it only specifies the xx525 models)

Set is only 7 months old. Green light is fixed have sound but screen is black.
Anyone knows what this problem could be?
Waiting for Mitshubishi tech to call me back.

I just had my light engine replaced. Does this mean I have a new bulb? Should I unplug the TV and indicate that there is a new bulb?


As an FYI and update to my previous posts:
I am on my third 62725. The first two were replaced due to imperfections with the screen. The third had the dreaded bright spot. Rather than having it replaced I had a Mitsubishi tech come check it out. He tried to fix it by cleaning the lamp (he actually said that in the past he had fixed the bright spot problem this way). That didn't work and he agreed I needed a new light engine.

The next business day I got a call saying that the part was on its way from Mitsubishi and they wanted to schedule a time to come replace it. I didn't have any of the problems so many others reported. Everyone seemed to agree I needed a new light engine and I no longer have any bright spot problem. I do have major geometry problems though, but that's a topic for a new post.

I just had my light engine replaced to fix the bright spot (it worked).

But now I've got some pretty serious geometry problems. The tech said that he could only adjust horizontal/vertical alignment and if I still have problems a new light engine is needed. Is that true????

He said it's all hit and miss, the new light engine could be better or worse. He also said that Mitsubishi does not guarantee perfect geometry since this is a consumer set as opposed to a commercial set. So Mitsubishi may not give me (another) new light engine to fix this.

Any advice on this geometry problem?

Thanks!

The football sized and shaped spot I had was easiest to see in a dark viewing enviroment, ... ....
Perhaps Clint Eastwood said it best:
"Do you feel lucky?"
I feel lucky!

Today I bought the 52725 ! The box has a stamped date at 12/04... I'm a little bit worried about this since reading posts here, some say the latest date you can get is the best bet. One box was 8/04, another 9/04 - that's all they had in stock (sealed boxes).

The store wanted $70 to deliver, even at only 5 miles distance. I said no thanks, $20 pickup truck rental is better. Rain halted my set-up and delivery of the TV today.

The most interesting part of the purchase (so far), was the salesman almost laughed at this site, saying he never heard of problems with Mitsu DLP's! I went over some of the common problems I read on here, and he was amazed! He didn't even know how to check for the manufacture date on the sets! I don't need to mention how "thrilled" I was at his lack of knowledge, even though he "thinks" he's quite the expert... This was disappointing, but this was the only store with the xx725's in stock. The Best"Boy" store (they seem to hire kids) didn't even have the xx725's listed... listed at all in their inventory! Their xx525's were about $400 more than the other stores xx725's !!

I hope things go well...
A thanks to AVS Forum and those that contribute!

I feel lucky!

Today I bought the 52725 ! The box has a stamped date at 12/04... I'm a little bit worried about this since reading posts here, some say the latest date you can get is the best bet. One box was 8/04, another 9/04 - that's all they had in stock (sealed boxes).

The store wanted $70 to deliver, even at only 5 miles distance. I said no thanks, $20 pickup truck rental is better. Rain halted my set-up and delivery of the TV today.

The most interesting part of the purchase (so far), was the salesman almost laughed at this site, saying he never heard of problems with Mitsu DLP's! I went over some of the common problems I read on here, and he was amazed! He didn't even know how to check for the manufacture date on the sets! I don't need to mention how "thrilled" I was at his lack of knowledge, even though he "thinks" he's quite the expert... This was disappointing, but this was the only store with the xx725's in stock. The Best"Boy" store (they seem to hire kids) didn't even have the xx725's listed... listed at all in their inventory! Their xx525's were about $400 more than the other stores xx725's !!

I hope things go well...
A thanks to AVS Forum and those that contribute!

Could someone give me some quick info on the "ideal" purchase period for a Mits set, where the bright spot is no longer an issue. Can a seller (internet) look this "date" up before you make the purchase to see if it an older set?
Thanks

Could someone give me some quick info on the "ideal" purchase period for a Mits set, where the bright spot is no longer an issue. Can a seller (internet) look this "date" up before you make the purchase to see if it an older set?
ThanksThis was a question I had earlier. Apparently the "bright spot" issue is 'hit and miss'!

I will post here, or on the >Owners of Mitsubishi xx725< thread as to my findings on my purchase. I just bought a 52725 set and have to set it up.. I had rain delays getting the set home Saturday (yesterday).

If there's a 'bright spot' issue --- it goes back! There's no way I'll accept that defect.

The date of manufacture is on the TOP of the box. I could be wrong, since I was not able to open the box at the store. When I looked at other sets (boxed, factory sealed), I saw several other dates on them going back to June 2004.....

The "actual" manufacture date may be on the back of the TV, and NOT on the box. I didn't have much cooperation when I asked for their latest Mitsu manufacture date!

Had a brief power interuption yesterday. When I turned on my 52725, I noticed some litle green lines scartterd all over on the screen. I know it's been covered in the past. Only seem to see it on HD. How do I cler it?

When I had the green lines scattered around on my screen, it was caused by my COX motorola 6412. At least I am pretty sure it was.

derailed

The loss of digital channels is pretty common with the new DLP's if your TV has software version 4.02 or 4.03. I went through the same thing. Make sure you have the most updated software version. I believe it is 4.05



If the firmware comes on a memory stick, is there a site out there that has the firmware updates that I can put on my own memory card and update it myself? Does the TV lose all of the settings? Does it lose the service menu items that I changed for alignment and the like if you flash the firmware?

I have a problem where after the TV learns the channels, it only lets me watch the HIGH DEF channels for about a week, then they turn blue and say they aren't channels anymore. To get them back, I have to scan the channels again...

I am pretty sure you will have to call MITS, i think the number is 949-830-8364.
I tried to get them to send it too me via an email but they told me to call that number.

1. The code for the so-called "options menu" is 2470, not 2070. I don't know if you typo-ed that or if you are trying the wrong key sequence.

2. You should call Mits to get the latest firmware. There were some remote control freezeup issues that were corrected with a firmware change. Mine has been flawless since I got the 004.05 update. If you have any trouble (which I doubt), tell them about the fact that the TV sometimes fails to respond to remote control commands.

Good luck!

Concerning firmware updates:

I called Mits. Tuesday afternoon (the 12th) and received it at my door Thursday the 14th!
That's excellent service by any standards.
This change from 4.03 to 4.05 did the trick, allowing "signal strength" to be viewed on OTA digital channels. If there are any other positive changes, I've yet to notice.
I have now logged about 10 hours of serious viewing and this set is really starting to impress me. If one is in the market for for a 62" screen, the 62725 is definitely a contender.

I just hooked up the WD52725....

There's no "bright spot" issue! --Guess I got 'lucky' - or quality improved later on.
My set is dated at 1/2005. I don't have a HD cable box yet, but regular cable looks great!

Now I need to learn fine tuning .....

:D

Anyone have a problem with losing digital audio from the set while viewing a digital channel while using a Cable Card? I upgraded to 4.05 a couple of months ago, so the Mits does send a signal when you first tune in, but after a few minutes, I lose it. I think it only occurs to non-broadcast digital channels (like Discovery Theater and TNT, and this weekend with Showtime). I think I recall seeing that in one of the mitsubishi threads.

Also, how do I convince the warrantee company to replace the light engine? I believe I have the bright spot, but I'm somewhat tolerant. (I bought the set in July 2004, but after all the talk about the bright spot, I'm finally noticing it when I watch closing credits).

I just hooked up the WD52725....

There's no "bright spot" issue! --Guess I got 'lucky' - or quality improved later on.
My set is dated at 1/2005. I don't have a HD cable box yet, but regular cable looks great!

Now I need to learn fine tuning .....

:D

Joe,

If you have cable right now (even basic cable), a lot of cable systems have the HD locals on the basic tier, unencrypted. You could try scanning the channels and see if it finds any digital channels. They can usually be found with the "Guide" button on the remote, by scrolling all the way to the bottom end of the channel list. They are easily identified by the fact that they have a dash in the channel number (eg. 102-1). If you have the channels scanned already, just look in this guide.

If you haven't scanned the cable yet (and are watching via a cable box), try plugging your cable directly into the back of the TV (I can't remember which one you need - the manual should say which one is used for digital cable). Then go into the TV menu, go to "Antenna", select the 1 or the 2 (for mine, cable is under item "1"), then arrow over to the "Antenna"/"Cable", select the "Cable" item, and press select on the remote. This initiates the channel scan. Allow it to scan all the analog channels, and then let it search for digital channels as well.

Good luck - you could be seeing HD before you even get an HD cable box.

How do you view signal strength on OTA? I haven't seen that option.

How do you view signal strength on OTA? I haven't seen that option.

TV Menu -> 2 -> 4 -> 7-> 0 (Menu-2470).

This will display the options menu. One of the lines will show the digital signal strength for both digital cable and digital OTA channels as a value from 0 to 9 (or 10 maybe)... Press the "Home" button to exit this menu. DON'T mess with anything in here unless you know what you are doing!

Jeff

Oh, the service menu. I don't recall seeing it before. Thanks spiff72!

As for quality I have a April 05 build date and only see a slight tilt. It's been a joy so far...

The cable company says they MUST send a tech out to me to "install" the HD cable box. What's the reason for this? Why can't I just bring the old box back to the store, and get the new HD box? They also say it will take a week and half to trade out boxes! Ridiculous...


(Thanks spiff27 for the advice on HD channels..)

The cable company says they MUST send a tech out to me to "install" the HD cable box. What's the reason for this? Why can't I just bring the old box back to the store, and get the new HD box? They also say it will take a week and half to trade out boxes! Ridiculous...


(Thanks spiff27 for the advice on HD channels..)

They MUST install it so they can line their pockets with your installation fee.

Did you try what I suggested above? And did it let you see any HD channels?

Sorry to ask this again but someone here must know the answer.

Last week I had my light engine replaced to fix my bright spot.

But now I've got geometry problems with the new engine. The tech who installed the light engine said he can't fix my geometry. He said he can only adjust vertical & horizontal alignment and if that won't do it then I need a new light engine.

That doesn't sound right to me, but he insisted there is little anyone can do to fix geometry problems other than change the light engine. Can that be? Is Mits going to send another light engine to fix geometry problems?

Thanks in advance.

Sorry to ask this again but someone here must know the answer.

Last week I had my light engine replaced to fix my bright spot.

But now I've got geometry problems with the new engine. The tech who installed the light engine said he can't fix my geometry. He said he can only adjust vertical & horizontal alignment and if that won't do it then I need a new light engine.

That doesn't sound right to me, but he insisted there is little anyone can do to fix geometry problems other than change the light engine. Can that be? Is Mits going to send another light engine to fix geometry problems?

Thanks in advance.


The tech is just plain wrong.

Follow this post:

http://avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4461167&highlight=keystone#post4461167

What are the geometry problems you are seeing?

Trapezoid and vertical and horizontal tilting can all be fixed using the adjustment thumb screws. Personally, I'd do it yourself. The monkey that came to fix my geometry didn't know anything about the TV. I ended up fixing it after he left.

They MUST install it so they can line their pockets with your installation fee.

Did you try what I suggested above? And did it let you see any HD channels?


They are required to come out for a simple cablecard install as well :rolleyes:

All the guy does is literally come in and stick the card in the slot and reset the TV. All the cards from my cable co. are preauthorized and everything so no action is needed on the techs part.

[QUOTE=spiff72]The foam block around the lens .....
SCREEN REMOVAL:

To get the screen off, you need to remove the speaker grille, ....."

I have the 62725 and need to get rid of the smudges. I am quite nervous about trying this procedure myself but when I finally found a tech that knows about this problem, he said that he would have to take the tv back to his shop to address the problem because it is the only way that he can do it safely. He also says that the only way he can get paid by Mits is if he is trying to fix a problem and in doing so he must clean the tv to fully diagnose. He says Mits will not pay him if he is just "cleaning" the dust out of the tv. This makes me more nervous because he says he will probably have the tv for a week.

Can you give me any guidance? Is it really that easy, even for someone a bit nervous about doing this, and especially considering the size of the screen?

Are the instructions posted by you and paudemge all I need to know?

These instructions are perfect and I had no problem following them:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5657842&highlight=screws#post5657842

I have a 52 inch, so with a 62 inch you may want someone to help you lift the screen.

I would not hesitate to do it again, and I think it did wonders to my picture. I may even follow a procedure to put some light absorbing materal in the inside to help with black levels (but not yet).

BUT if you feel at all uncomfortable with doing this yourself, don't do it!

I guess I would be willing to pull the TV apart and would feel better about it if I could get a copy of the service manual. Do you know if it is posted anywhere online?

I have done a search on avs but have yet to find it.

I have removed and reinstalled my 62" screen one more time since I posted those instructions, and this time I did it without help from my other half (there was a spider crawling around inside the TV! - I never found it, though). Getting the screen off is easier than putting it back on when you are working solo. If you haven't done it before, I would at least make sure that you have help from someone to get it back on the TV. It is helpful since you can't see the back of the screen to help line up the hooks on the screen that hold it in place.

If you can turn a screwdriver, you can do this. But I will say it again, don't blame me if something goes wrong!

Jeff

just got back from purchasing 62725 with stand for about $3000.

Is that a good deal? thanks.

mflo77

is the picture much greater with a cable card as opposed to a regular HD receiver box? thanks.

mflo77

IMO, a cablecard will give you better PQ than a box...

The Cox cable card my parents used in their 52725 DLP made channel changing PAINFULLY slow and they lost out on PPV and a current cable guide...Go with the DVR style box.

p.s.

Is that a good deal? thanks.


A little too late to ask silly questions like that huh? You already bought it..what ya gonna do, go back to the store and say, "but the internet forum people said my deal wasn't good!". :)

The tech is just plain wrong.

Follow this post:

http://avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4461167&highlight=keystone#post4461167

I followed that post and did some other digging around looking for ways to fix geometry problems, and it seems the tech was right. He spent some time working with the horizontal and vertical keystone adjustments. That wasn't doing the trick, so he said a new light engine is needed because that's all he could do.

I followed the directions from this forum and I couldn't get it quite right either. I have some "bowing" that I just can't get rid of with the keystone adjustments. Changing hpos and vpos doesn't help that at all. The test images also appear to be rotated several degrees counterclockwise.

Why was the tech wrong? Is there something else I can try to do myself or is my only hope a new light engine? If I missed something please point it out to me, I'm eager to try anything that may help.

If I have to take this up with Mitsubishi, should I refrain from telling them that I made keystone adjustments? Will that have any affect on my warranty?

One more thing - I don't think the tech loosened the retaining screws before making the keystone adjustments, anyone think that did any damage to my set?

Thanks again.

When the tech was here replacing my light engine I was able to copy part of the instruction manual for the replacement. On the last page it says that after installation the following adjustments may have to be made:

1) Horizontal and vertical electrical centering adjustment (I assume this is hpos and vpos in the service menu)
2) Optical unit rotation adjustment (WHAT THE HECK IS THIS???)
3) Optical unit keystone adjustment

1 & 3 I've been able to do on my own by following the posts in this forum. Does anyone know what item #2 is? I haven't been able to get my geometry right with steps 1 & 3, so I'm hoping that #2 is the missing link. Problem is I have no idea how to make this adjustment.

Can anyone shed some light on this?

Thanks!

If the keystone adjustments do not help, then there is an additional rotational adjustment that is only accessible through the back of the set. The rotational adjustment thumbscrew resides on the left side of the light engine mounting platform. I surmise that you probably need this adjusted and as such, may want to get another tech to do this for you unless you are not afraid of digging into your TV.

Thank you all for your information on the DLPs, i pulled the trigger on WD52525 last night at ulitimate elec - they had a special for $2497. I had a hard time deciding between HLR5085 / 52525 / 52725. Finally got a 52525, will be delivered on Friday. However, i have some basic questions, some of them may sound stupid, but its me.
1. I have basic cable(extended) from charter, currently no cable box. I get some 50+ channels and some of them say "HD whereever available". Can i still get these channels in HD (the one that are marked HD) with my new TV.

2. Should i get a digital cable by paying a bit more monthly.

3. How do i make use of Off the Air HD transmission with my new TV. Should i buy extra antenna? I also have a Dish network equipment outside the house + the receiver, I don't use it currently since i cancelled the dish network but the dish itself is just sitting. Can i make use of this as an outdoor antenna.

You inputs are valuable for me. Thank you again.

Own a 62725 now!!


I just bought this TV a few days ago. $2499 and no tax. I feel like it was a good buy

It was going to be a 62327 but they were out so they upgraded me for free.



Does anyone have any advice on the best, least problematic, upconverting DVD player for this system?

Thank you all for your information on the DLPs, i pulled the trigger on WD52525 last night at ulitimate elec - they had a special for $2497. I had a hard time deciding between HLR5085 / 52525 / 52725. Finally got a 52525, will be delivered on Friday. However, i have some basic questions, some of them may sound stupid, but its me.
1. I have basic cable(extended) from charter, currently no cable box. I get some 50+ channels and some of them say "HD whereever available". Can i still get these channels in HD (the one that are marked HD) with my new TV.

2. Should i get a digital cable by paying a bit more monthly.

3. How do i make use of Off the Air HD transmission with my new TV. Should i buy extra antenna? I also have a Dish network equipment outside the house + the receiver, I don't use it currently since i cancelled the dish network but the dish itself is just sitting. Can i make use of this as an outdoor antenna.

You inputs are valuable for me. Thank you again.

Just a note, this thread is on the XX725 and you are asking questions about a XX525 :)

Own a 62725 now!!


I just bought this TV a few days ago. $2499 and no tax. I feel like it was a good buy

Very nice deal, from where did you get this?

Just a note, this thread is on the XX725 and you are asking questions about a XX525 :)

Sorry about this, but could not locate the XX525 thread. Not much diff between the 2 sets :).
Apologies again.

The only difference between the 525 and 725 is a microns worth of anti-reflective coating on the screen. I think it is perfectly acceptable to ask questions about the 525 in this thread. I have done so since I got mine in February. :)

Thank you all for your information on the DLPs, i pulled the trigger on WD52525 last night at ulitimate elec - they had a special for $2497. I had a hard time deciding between HLR5085 / 52525 / 52725. Finally got a 52525, will be delivered on Friday. However, i have some basic questions, some of them may sound stupid, but its me...(SNIP)


1. Nope. You can't get those channels unless you pay for Charter's HD tier. One possible exception is that you local Charter may have your local HD "big 4" networks (ABC, NBC, FOX, CBS) within the basic tier. If so, if you connect cable to the TV directly, you can have it scan for your channels. It will do the scan for analog channels first, then it will look for digital channels. If it finds any digital channels, they will show up in your guide as numbers like "102-1", etc. Any other HD channels would be available through Charter, if they are in the lineup. These would be channels like HDNet, Discovery HD Theater, etc.

2. I don't bother with digital cable - I have basic cable (for $14/month), and Dish Network with an 811 receiver (this is an HD satellite receiver).

3. The dish won't work as an OTA antenna. You should try your cable channels and see if you get your locals in HD. If you do, it probably isn't worth getting an outside antenna. If you do need an antenna for HD channels, that is an entirely different topic. You could go to www.antennaweb.org for help in choosing one.

Good luck

Sorry about this, but could not locate the XX525 thread. Not much diff between the 2 sets :).
Apologies again.

Oh I have no clue what the diference is :) I just was giving ah eads up heh

Very nice deal, from where did you get this?

tweeter store

Thank you all for your information on the DLPs, i pulled the trigger on WD52525 last night at ulitimate elec ....


1. Like spiff72 said, connect the cable to the back of the TV and do a scan. Most likely you will not get any HD but you never know till you try.

2. I dropped cable a long time ago. I would suggest you compare what you can get from your cable co. vs a DBS provider. I have Dishnetwork w/ their HD pack. -Love it! If you go back to Dishnetwork you will need an HD receiver. I have the 942. - Love it! Check out http://www.dbstalk.com/ or http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=42

3. What spiff72 said. I have a Radio Shack outdoor ant. that I mounted in my attic space. For my area, it works great.

I had my third 62725 (in about a month) delivered yesterday from Sound Advice (Florida version of Tweeter). I did not check the manufacture date. This set showed no smudges and no tilt. I have had to hit the reset button twice so it is exhibiting the symptoms of the firmware problem. I have a comment on this problem. The first set I received only lasted about 50 minutes. The second set which I kept not quite a month (smudges, tilt, and firmware) seemed to settle out after a time. By this I mean that I had to reset daily for several days but then the problem dwindled away entirely after about a week to 10 days. I will watch to see if this set does the same.

As a second comment, I live about 50 miles away from the antenna farm for the OTA channels in central Florida and I get excellent reception using a Square Shooter 2000 antenna mounted to the side of my house. This antenna has performed extremely well for me with a mnimum visual impact. I am willing to bet my neighbors do not even realize I had an antenna installed.

As a final comment, Sound Advice has been completely professional and responsive to me throughout this period. The set underwent a substantial price reduction over this period and SA promptly credited me the difference. They have won a loyal customer by their treatment of me.

I have a question for the forum. I had the installers remove the protective "anti-reflection" screen. I know you can obtain a trim kit and the sales guys attempted to order it for me. However, since this set is being closed out they referred me to the parts order service. When you call them, their nomenclature is completely different with over 8 different versions of "frame screen" and "Screen Trim" and "Screen Cover Frame" parts listed adding up to much higher total than the original trim kit. Does anyone know how I can:

a. Get the correct nomenclature for the original kit?
b. Get the kit?

Edit: Ordered the Trim Kit directly from Mitsubishi - List Price 49.99 plus a pretty stiff shipping charge because the kit is sent as a complete assembly

My 52725 lost its video settings again yesterday. Anybody else have this problem? Anyone have any ideas why it may be happening? I haven't checked whether it lost the settings on all inputs or just my HD cable which is on input 1.

Has anybody seen a bright spot issue on PC input in standard mode? I see three bright spots near the bottom 1/4 of the screen. I don't see this on any other inputs. I noticed this after adjusting contrast and brightness settings for PC input. The problem goes away with reduce 1/2 or a non 1280x720 resolution.

I had my third 62725 (in about a month) delivered yesterday from Sound Advice (Florida version of Tweeter). I did not check the manufacture date. This set showed no smudges and no tilt. I have had to hit the reset button twice so it is exhibiting the symptoms of the firmware problem. I have a comment on this problem. The first set I received only lasted about 50 minutes. The second set which I kept not quite a month (smudges, tilt, and firmware) seemed to settle out after a time. By this I mean that I had to reset daily for several days but then the problem dwindled away entirely after about a week to 10 days. I will watch to see if this set does the same.

As a second comment, I live about 50 miles away from the antenna farm for the OTA channels in central Florida and I get excellent reception using a Square Shooter 2000 antenna mounted to the side of my house. This antenna has performed extremely well for me with a mnimum visual impact. I am willing to bet my neighbors do not even realize I had an antenna installed.

As a final comment, Sound Advice has been completely professional and responsive to me throughout this period. The set underwent a substantial price reduction over this period and SA promptly credited me the difference. They have won a loyal customer by their treatment of me.


How much did you end up paying for it?

2. I dropped cable a long time ago. I would suggest you compare what you can get from your cable co. vs a DBS provider. I have Dishnetwork w/ their HD pack. -Love it! If you go back to Dishnetwork you will need an HD receiver. I have the 942. - Love it! Check out http://www.dbstalk.com/ or http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=42


I am seriously tempted to try upgrading my 811 to the 942. I REALLY want to be able to record in HD! Do you use yours for HD OTA recording as well? I do worry about its lack of support for MPEG4...

I would also like to record the HD test patterns on HDNet so I can calibrate the TV a bit better for the HD inputs.

Finally, do you watch the 942 via HDMI or Component?

Thanks,
Jeff

I need some help, are there any Mitsubishi DLP owners that are using a panasonic s97 DVD player. My HD upconversion looks terrible so I've been using the component 480p. I should've just stuck with my RP62. Anyways is anybody who uses this combination could you please post your settings so I can match them up against mine. thanks

~james

I'm a little late on this one but I have an S97 and use 480p via component and not anything via HDMI for the simple reason that I have some audio popping problems via HDMI that I have never solved. Have you set up the S97 / DLP with DVE or Avia? Also, what firmware are you running on the S97? Also, what is the issue specifically? If it's macroblocking this is helped using component (IMHO) and also reportedly with the latest firmware (540 or newer with the new build date).

Has anyone ever called Mits and complained about the smudge issues? I think this is a terrible design flaw which I see no solution to. Dust in the light engine, dust on the mirror, which is laying almost horizontial. I don't like taking the screen off every month...it will break eventually or the screw holes will stip out. Bad design..bad

I think some people have complained and got MITS to send out a tech to do the cleaning. But I think at least in my case the smudges are mostly from the factory. I am hoping that now that I have cleaned it it will remain clean for quite some time.
I didn't call and complain on the smudge issue because I knew what the fix was and was very sure i could do it my self. I didn't want a tech that may not have had any experience with DLP's to come out and try to fix the issue. Or worse have them say they need to take my TV in to the shop to fix it.
I don't think it is a design flaw as so much a problem in the manufactoring. They need to have a lot better dust control. The plant the assemply these should be a dust free environment.

Going on 6 months after I had my mirrors cleaned and not one single smudge since. I called Mits and complained. They ended up sending someone out to clean it for me.

I think the biggest problem is that people do not clean their air filter. I clean mine once a month, and trust me...its pretty dirty every time.

Going on 6 months after I had my mirrors cleaned and not one single smudge since. I called Mits and complained. They ended up sending someone out to clean it for me.

I think the biggest problem is that people do not clean their air filter. I clean mine once a month, and trust me...its pretty dirty every time.



Where is the air filter, and how do you clean it? Sorry if this a stupid question.

It should be on the left side of the tv. The Owners guide describes how to clean the dust filter. They say to clean it annually or whenever you change the bulb.
I clean mine about every other month or so. Just make sure that you get the filter back on good so that there is no way for unfiltered air to make it into the tv..

Thanks

Thanks spiff72 and Tom,
That cleared my doubts, i will be getting the TV today. Will try what you have described and post what i find.
Thanks again.
FYI: the WD52525 are on clearance now in BB and Ulitimate. I got a price match from Ultimate (-325$)

HHGREGG just brought me two pieces....a stand for my new mitsu, and my new 62725.
My stand was cracked in three places, AND my new brand new MITSU wouldnt start. The timer button kept on flashing, and the television wouldnt start for twenty minutes. I am really po'd. Has anybody had any problems with the MITSU. Should i get another DLP or should i stick it out with mitsu...

thanks..

mflo77

Got my 52525 on friday, playing around since then - not too happy. I don't have any HD yet, I am getting a lot of Basic (480i) channels and SD. It has a slight lip-sync problem.
I have Toshiba Progressive DVD player, and i have connected to my TV via Component cable (Comp-1). This too has a lip-sync issue and i am not convinced with PQ either. My 32' JVC CRT used to render better picture than this one.

Should i upgrade my DVD player - get an upconverting one. Am i missing something? Anyone here has this issue?

Got my 52525 on friday, playing around since then - not too happy. I don't have any HD yet, I am getting a lot of Basic (480i) channels and SD. It has a slight lip-sync problem.
I have Toshiba Progressive DVD player, and i have connected to my TV via Component cable (Comp-1). This too has a lip-sync issue and i am not convinced with PQ either. My 32' JVC CRT used to render better picture than this one.

Should i upgrade my DVD player - get an upconverting one. Am i missing something? Anyone here has this issue?

You likely won't feel blown away with only 480i over your CD, esp if it not good quality cable with a lot of noise, etc.

Relative to the unconverting player, this is (as usual) a matter of opinion. I have an upconverting player and I think the conversion of the Mits is just fine. That is, using the DVD player to convert vs the TV is not a noticable PQ change. Rather than askig if you need an upconverting player, check to see if your player is a quality DVD player instead. I think any good non-upconverting player should look good.

Also, invest in DVE or Avia if you have not already and set up your system per their instructions as a good starting point

Got a Indoor (Zenith Silver sensor) HD antenna - was able to pickup only 3 HD channels. I see a lot of pixels on the screen. My Incredibles DVD appers great and cartoons on HD looks great. All other have some kind distortion. Tried to adjust all the things that i could but never got rid of these pixels. When i watch any Animation DVDs i don't see them but regular DVD/HD has these. Any thoughts?

You likely won't feel blown away with only 480i over your CD, esp if it not good quality cable with a lot of noise, etc.

Relative to the unconverting player, this is (as usual) a matter of opinion. I have an upconverting player and I think the conversion of the Mits is just fine. That is, using the DVD player to convert vs the TV is not a noticable PQ change. Rather than askig if you need an upconverting player, check to see if your player is a quality DVD player instead. I think any good non-upconverting player should look good.

Also, invest in DVE or Avia if you have not already and set up your system per their instructions as a good starting point
I just bought a brand new Mit 52525 (DLP) and I don't have Comcast to activate the HD as yet. I am happy with the Mit, but I have the following problems:

1. Delay in switching on the TV. It takes almost 30 secs to switch on. I can hear the sound and pics come a bit later than 30 secs, most likely 45 secs. Is that normal? Is there a way to speed this up a bit? Also, switching channels takes a few more secs than my old JVC. Does anyone has the same problem, and is there a way to fix it.

2. Lip syn - that's very obvious in all the analog channels. I understand from previous posts that you recommend DVR, can you explain a bit more (as I am a non-tech person & knows nothing about all these equipments).

3. Does anyone know if I can get HD without upgrading my Comcast cable package (as I don't want to pay more), as I was told that I only need a cable card from comcast which should be free? I don't want to use the antenna for HD signal as I understand that was not the best way to get the signal. I talk to Comcast Customer service, and they tried to have me to upgrade to their expansive HD Cable packages, which I don't need. I understand that the FCC rulings are not to pass the cost of HD broadcasting to consumers. Anyone has any idea? Thank you in advance

3. Does anyone know if I can get HD without upgrading my Comcast cable package (as I don't want to pay more), as I was told that I only need a cable card from comcast which should be free? I don't want to use the antenna for HD signal as I understand that was not the best way to get the signal. I talk to Comcast Customer service, and they tried to have me to upgrade to their expansive HD Cable packages, which I don't need. I understand that the FCC rulings are not to pass the cost of HD broadcasting to consumers. Anyone has any idea? Thank you in advance

You were given bad information. Over the air antenna is the best way to get HD programming. Maybe not the easiest way, but this will give you the best HD picture quality available (assuming you can get a strong signal).

You can only get the broadcast HD signal from your local stations for free, and you need an OTA antenna for that. You aren't entitled to any other free HD programming. If you want any HD cable programming you have to pay for it.

I just bought a brand new Mit 52525 (DLP) and I don't have Comcast to activate the HD as yet. I am happy with the Mit, but I have the following problems:

1. Delay in switching on the TV. It takes almost 30 secs to switch on. I can hear the sound and pics come a bit later than 30 secs, most likely 45 secs. Is that normal? Is there a way to speed this up a bit? Also, switching channels takes a few more secs than my old JVC. Does anyone has the same problem, and is there a way to fix it.

2. Lip syn - that's very obvious in all the analog channels. I understand from previous posts that you recommend DVR, can you explain a bit more (as I am a non-tech person & knows nothing about all these equipments).

3. Does anyone know if I can get HD without upgrading my Comcast cable package (as I don't want to pay more), as I was told that I only need a cable card from comcast which should be free? I don't want to use the antenna for HD signal as I understand that was not the best way to get the signal. I talk to Comcast Customer service, and they tried to have me to upgrade to their expansive HD Cable packages, which I don't need. I understand that the FCC rulings are not to pass the cost of HD broadcasting to consumers. Anyone has any idea? Thank you in advance

I totally agree with, i am in the boat as you are. I too have my old JVC. Yet, it takes a long time to startup and channing channel is a pain, but you will get used to it after a few days.

I bought a an indoor antenna from sears ($49), but it got only 3 HD channels. But i live approx 30miles away from the towers. I see lip-sync issue on the HD too, but i am thinking its just the weak HD signal.

Got a Indoor (Zenith Silver sensor) HD antenna - was able to pickup only 3 HD channels. I see a lot of pixels on the screen. My Incredibles DVD appers great and cartoons on HD looks great. All other have some kind distortion. Tried to adjust all the things that i could but never got rid of these pixels. When i watch any Animation DVDs i don't see them but regular DVD/HD has these. Any thoughts?

3 HD channels OTA makes sense with an indoor antenna (being, say, 3 of the 4 major networks). If the image is pixelating from weak signal strength (use menu-2-4-7-0 on the remote to check OTA signal strength) then you need a better (roof or attic mounted) antenna. There's not much more to do than that.

Relative to distortion, are you sure you are using the proper stretch mode? For 4:3 signals (that is, 480i TV and some DVDs) you'll need to find the "narrow" mode using your "format" button if you want a non-distorted picture. If you are using any other mode (expand, stretch, zoom, stretch plus etc) there will be distorion and/or information loss (overscan type effects) at the edges of the picture. Check this on both the TV and the DVD player, if your DVD player has various zoom modes.

I just bought a brand new Mit 52525 (DLP) and I don't have Comcast to activate the HD as yet. I am happy with the Mit, but I have the following problems:

1. Delay in switching on the TV. It takes almost 30 secs to switch on. I can hear the sound and pics come a bit later than 30 secs, most likely 45 secs. Is that normal? Is there a way to speed this up a bit? Also, switching channels takes a few more secs than my old JVC. Does anyone has the same problem, and is there a way to fix it.

2. Lip syn - that's very obvious in all the analog channels. I understand from previous posts that you recommend DVR, can you explain a bit more (as I am a non-tech person & knows nothing about all these equipments).

3. Does anyone know if I can get HD without upgrading my Comcast cable package (as I don't want to pay more), as I was told that I only need a cable card from comcast which should be free? I don't want to use the antenna for HD signal as I understand that was not the best way to get the signal. I talk to Comcast Customer service, and they tried to have me to upgrade to their expansive HD Cable packages, which I don't need. I understand that the FCC rulings are not to pass the cost of HD broadcasting to consumers. Anyone has any idea? Thank you in advance

1) The delay when you turn it on is normal. I don't think there is a way to speed this up. There is also quite a delay in changing channels OTA but I have not noticed a delay per se using the cable box.

2) I don't have a lip sync problem and can't really comment but if you serach this thread I believe that its been discussed and you can probably find an answer.

3) As someone else posted, OTA (assuming you can pull in a good signal) will have great PQ as you won't have noise and other degradation that tends to come in over cable (my cable, anyway). I have Adelphia, not Comcast, but I think the HD packages are similar, meaning way too expensive for the limited number of HD channels they give you. Use of a cable card will not get you free HD, unless this is some promotion Comcast is running.

3 HD channels OTA makes sense with an indoor antenna (being, say, 3 of the 4 major networks). If the image is pixelating from weak signal strength (use menu-2-4-7-0 on the remote to check OTA signal strength) then you need a better (roof or attic mounted) antenna. There's not much more to do than that.

Relative to distortion, are you sure you are using the proper stretch mode? For 4:3 signals (that is, 480i TV and some DVDs) you'll need to find the "narrow" mode using your "format" button if you want a non-distorted picture. If you are using any other mode (expand, stretch, zoom, stretch plus etc) there will be distorion and/or information loss (overscan type effects) at the edges of the picture. Check this on both the TV and the DVD player, if your DVD player has various zoom modes.
Thanks August,
I will check my signal strength (use menu-2-4-7-0 on the remote to check OTA signal strength) - I am sure i have a weak signal.

My DVD says 16:9, on my DVD player i set to 16:9 (i got options for 4:3 letterbox and 4:3 pan/scan). I have not used Zoom on dvd and on my TV. While watching the DVD. The Info button on the remote gives 480i, Standard. Should i set my DVD to 4:3 letterbox and test?

Again guys, I really appreciate the time you are taking to reply. Thank you.
Just that, i love this TV, great colors, great blak level, i was really blown away with the Incredibles DVD.

This post describes my experience with DHL shipping. I own a 62725 and I had the installers remove the protective screen. Since SA is discontinuing this model to make way for the 1080p sets, they no longer can order the screen frame (trim kit). I ordered this directly from Mitsubishi, who shipped the frame second day via DHL. In spite of being clearly marked fragile on the top and bottom, the screen frame arrived in pieces. Not only were both ends of the packing box bent, there were mulitiple holes punched in the box and protective material. DHL clearly had no respect for the box markings. Looking at the box, Mitsubishi did the right things. The box was marked and under normal wear and tear the frame was adequately protected.

I promptly filed a claim with DHL and gave them a piece of my mind. I'm sure the DHL CSR has heard the same thing a million times. What I would like to do is to tell Mitsubishi to not use the same outfit as I order this part a second time. Does anyone have a recommendation on a company that will respect the shipment. Price is not an object!!!

Thanks August,
I have not used Zoom on dvd and on my TV. While watching the DVD. The Info button on the remote gives 480i, Standard. Should i set my DVD to 4:3 letterbox and test?
.

Hit the "format" button on your remote to change "standard" to "narrow" on your 480i signals. This will make the image 4:3 in shape (and smaller in diagonal width, unfortunately) but will get rid of the distortions.

If your DVD player has the abilty to output 480p you may want to play with that to see if this gives a better picture quality. My 480p is much better than 480i visually (although I don't see much difference using the 720p output) Also, using the component output on your DVD player (assuming you don't have HDMI) is generally considered your best bet relative to coax or other available outputs.

... .... My 480p is much better than 480i visually (although I don't see much difference using the 720p output) Also, using the component output on your DVD player (assuming you don't have HDMI).....My Toshiba DVD has HDMI output, but when I connect it, I have no picture. What am I doing wrong on the 52725 settings? The component outputs work.

Second question (as a new HD owner..), is DVD supposed to look as good as say Discovery Channels' HD signal?


......

Thanks in advance..

>confused<

My Toshiba DVD has HDMI output, but when I connect it, I have no picture. What am I doing wrong on the 52725 settings? The component outputs work.

Second question (as a new HD owner..), is DVD supposed to look as good as say Discovery Channels' HD signal?


......

Thanks in advance..

>confused<


you need to make sure the MONLINK input under the Netcommand settings is enabled.

DVD in its current form will not look as good as true HD regardless of the player/disk/settings...

... ...
1. Delay in switching on the TV. It takes almost 30 secs to switch on. ..
Thank you in advanceAs a previous post, this is normal when turning the TV on. I don't find this a problem since the quality of the picture defeats the "start-up delay". Also, I have the 52725 and there were complaints about the fan running continuously. With this model (maybe Firmware..), the fan shuts down when turned off.

you need to make sure the MONLINK input under the Netcommand settings is enabled.

DVD in its current form will not look as good as true HD regardless of the player/disk/settings...Thanks! Very quick reply is great!

Netcommand is confusing, at first... It took awhile to get HD cable going..!

Do I need to disconnect component video and then connect HDMI -- use only one connection and not both? My audio is to a separate souce (Onkyo receiver).

My Toshiba DVD manual says I need to have HDMI connected to view pictures from the camera card slots with the best possible resolution. ...Toshiba calls it "HD Jpg"..


Thanks again for the help!!

Joe

If your DVD player allows, it you can certainly have both component and HDMI connected from one source. The TV doesn't care, but your DVD player may only allow you to have one or the other active.

I am seriously tempted to try upgrading my 811 to the 942. I REALLY want to be able to record in HD! Do you use yours for HD OTA recording as well? I do worry about its lack of support for MPEG4...

I would also like to record the HD test patterns on HDNet so I can calibrate the TV a bit better for the HD inputs.

Finally, do you watch the 942 via HDMI or Component?

Thanks,
Jeff
I can and do record HD OTA as well as from sat. I did not consider the switch to MPEG4 as a near term problem significant enough to cause me to wait, so I took the plunge.
Lastly, I foung the DHMI input to be washed out lacking in high color and contrast so I went back to component. This might be due to the cable supplied w/ the 942 and not the Mits., but since the component worked so well, I just left it that way.

hi,


are you connected all videos cables to your tv and all audio cables to your receiver?

unplug for 1.2 hour and turn on, it should be ok

I can and do record HD OTA as well as from sat. I did not consider the switch to MPEG4 as a near term problem significant enough to cause me to wait, so I took the plunge.
Lastly, I foung the DHMI input to be washed out lacking in high color and contrast so I went back to component. This might be due to the cable supplied w/ the 942 and not the Mits., but since the component worked so well, I just left it that way.

I have seen that washed out appearance on the 811 Receiver, too. I made some adjustments (someone in this thread posted them - I think it was UMD_Terp). These helped most of the washout, but it is still a little "off" compared to component. I think I may have gotten used to the way that the colors "pop" using component - the HDMI input might be more natural...

Anyway - if Dish implements the upgrade for existing customers, I might dive in.

Would you say that the 942's OTA tuner is as good as the Mitsi's built in tuner?

Thanks,
Jeff

Woohoo!

Sorry - I couldn't resist.