Hit the "format" button on your remote to change "standard" to "narrow" on your 480i signals. This will make the image 4:3 in shape (and smaller in diagonal width, unfortunately) but will get rid of the distortions.

If your DVD player has the abilty to output 480p you may want to play with that to see if this gives a better picture quality. My 480p is much better than 480i visually (although I don't see much difference using the 720p output) Also, using the component output on your DVD player (assuming you don't have HDMI) is generally considered your best bet relative to coax or other available outputs.

Thanks August,
My DVD player is set to progressive, i get 480p. I think i solved the distortion issue, it may sound stupid - I was sitting too close. Initially i was watching it from 8.5 feet (Thats the max i could do with the arrangement i have). I turned the TV around and stood about 10.5 to 11. The picture looks great. Many people would argue about this, but its my eyes. (I have read here few people watch 56' with 9'). I am not telling thats the formula, but the PQ for me looks great from 10.5 for 52 inch tv.
I don't see any distortion even when there is a camera movement. Watched Lord of the Rings - loved it, colors are absolutely beautiful, beginning to love my TV now.

I could not get the 2-4-7-0 to work (to check the signal strength), its not documented in the manual. Can you please explain this to me.

Thanks again for your help.

how did you connect your dvd, is dvd wire run thru tv or your reciever? Thanks

You have to push (in sequence) "TV Menu", 2, 4, 7, 0. You should get a menu with some white text on the screen. There is an item called Digital Signal Strength, and this is a value from 0 to 10 (or maybe 0-9). To get out of this menu, you press "Home". It will say "N/A" if you are watching an analog channel (and possibly if you are watching an input other than the TV's internal tuner).

Lastly, I foung the DHMI input to be washed out lacking in high color and contrast so I went back to component. This might be due to the cable supplied w/ the 942 and not the Mits., but since the component worked so well, I just left it that way.

I just got a 942 and a 52525 a few weeks ago and have been using the HDMI cable supplied with the 942 with no problems. (Actually, I was quite impressed with the cables supplied with the 942 and a bit disappointed with the lack of cables supplied with the 52525).

-- Andy

....

Would you say that the 942's OTA tuner is as good as the Mitsi's built in tuner?

Thanks,
Jeff

I couldn't not find a difference in my area. Maybe in some other areas where a fringe signal is present something might show up.

As a previous post, this is normal when turning the TV on. I don't find this a problem since the quality of the picture defeats the "start-up delay". Also, I have the 52725 and there were complaints about the fan running continuously. With this model (maybe Firmware..), the fan shuts down when turned off.

Do you mean that if you upgrade the firmware in the TV, the fan shuts down when you turn the TV off. When I had called Mitsubishi about that about 6 months ago, they told me that the fan stays on to protect circuitry that gets too hot because it continues to stay powered even if the TV is off. Does that mean in later firmware they disabled the fan? What protects the circuitry from catching fire if the fan is disabled in the latest firmware??

If the keystone adjustments do not help, then there is an additional rotational adjustment that is only accessible through the back of the set. The rotational adjustment thumbscrew resides on the left side of the light engine mounting platform. I surmise that you probably need this adjusted and as such, may want to get another tech to do this for you unless you are not afraid of digging into your TV.

UMD_Terp

Are you part of the UMD clan that plays Halo2 on Kai Link??

UMD_Terp

Are you part of the UMD clan that plays Halo2 on Kai Link??


no... just a graduate from the Univ. Of MD... :)

how did you connect your dvd, is dvd wire run thru tv or your reciever? Thanks
From DVD player, i have connected a Comp-Video to my TV (Comp1). For the Audio, i have connected a optical cable from DVD to my Denon Receiver.

You have to push (in sequence) "TV Menu", 2, 4, 7, 0. You should get a menu with some white text on the screen. There is an item called Digital Signal Strength, and this is a value from 0 to 10 (or maybe 0-9). To get out of this menu, you press "Home". It will say "N/A" if you are watching an analog channel (and possibly if you are watching an input other than the TV's internal tuner).
Got it Spiff, It shows 0 for 2 secs and then go up to 8. some of the channels show 6 and 7. But the ones that show 8 do not match the PQ that i see in the Bestbuy or circutcity.

Do you mean that if you upgrade the firmware in the TV, the fan shuts down when you turn the TV off. When I had called Mitsubishi about that about 6 months ago, they told me that the fan stays on to protect circuitry that gets too hot... ..?I'm a new owner of a 52725. It's incredible! The fan noise is "not there" with the set on due to 'regular' TV volumes ---- I'm very, very surpised this was even as issue from the past Posts of the Forum here!

When I shut down the TV, after less than a minute (flashing freen LED), turns off, then there's no fan running; at least no that I can tell. The set is very quiet, with no fan noise detectable.

My 52725 has a "Borrn On Date" at 1/2005.....

Thanks to AVSForum.com!!
I found the HD set I was wanting!!

By the way!
NETCOMMAND is needed to set the TV up right!! If you think, (like I first did..) to skip this feature... --Wrong........ Go through the Menus and learn about the TV. NetCommand is not just for the Infrared Remotes! You don't have to set-up Netcommand and the remotes fully to enjoy the great picture of the TV...

I believe I have the latest firmware 4.05 according to Mitsubishi as of 7/1/05 and the cable card fan is still running continuously.

I have a April 2005 build date with the newest firmware and my wife and I can't hear the fan. I don't think it's running when the unit is off.

I have a April 2005 build date with the newest firmware and my wife and I can't hear the fan. I don't think it's running when the unit is off.

My TV is a July 04 build (62525), and it has always run the back cable card area fan (it is VERY quiet - barely audible unless you climb behind the TV and put your ear in that general area).

And I agree on the Netcommand - it is really cool. I bought a Harmony remote recently, so I don't use it like I used to, but I actually stopped using a Pronto remote after I set up Netcommand.

There are actually two fans, one that is always on and is so quiet that you really can't hear it at all and the other louder fan that comes on when you turn the TV on.

As posted earlier in this thread, I am convinced that the amount of fan noise heard by the viewer is dependent on a numebr of factors that are room specific, such as if the TV is in an entertainment center vs being in a corner of a room, etc. I can hear my fan pretty clearly during quiet scenes although with time it has become less noticable.

I was wondering about why there needs to be a fan running when the TV is off, so I measured the power being used when my 52525 is off and its about 60 watts!! This is an amazing amount of power for an appliance that's not turned on.

Does anyone have any idea what could possibly need this much power? My Dish DVR (942), which has a disk running all the time and whose tuner is always receiving signals when off only uses about 40 watts (my old one (501) used under 30 watts). Perhaps they keep the NetCommand system going, but even then it should only consume maybe 10 watts or so.

While 60 watts may not seem like much (think of a 60 watt bulb going 24 hours a day), here in CA where our electric rates are skyrocketing, that comes to about $100 a year! Hmmm, that's probably about what it'll cost to replace the lamp in this thing...

-- Andy

There are actually two fans, one that is always on and is so quiet that you really can't hear it at all and the other louder fan that comes on when you turn the TV on..

According to the service manual there are actually 5 fans. One each for Ballast,Lamp,DMD,Chassis and Exhaust.

Only one runs when the TV is off.

I have version 4.05 of the firmware for my set. I am forced to hit the reset button every time the set is off for a period of time. Is anyone else still encountering this condition with v4.05?

I just bought a wd52525 this week and have a couple of questions after reading through this thread.

1) The set is going to be replaced Tuesday because when I turned the current unit on after bringing it home I notice a pixel was stuck in the off position. Anyone else have a problem with mirrors getting stuck?

2) I read that somebody put a 24" fluorescent light behind their set... why? what does this do?

3)My screen has a slight tilt... how can I get into the service menu to correct this? I've seen a number of different codes mentioned in this thread.

4) I took the protective screen out and put in a trim kit... what a difference this makes in the picture, removing glare.... how are the screens for the rest of you that have done this? Do you find yourself cleaning the screen more often? what do you use to clean the screen with? Does the cleaner from Mits work?

Thanks,
Greg

I just bought a wd52525 this week and have a couple of questions after reading through this thread.

1) The set is going to be replaced Tuesday because when I turned the current unit on after bringing it home I notice a pixel was stuck in the off position. Anyone else have a problem with mirrors getting stuck?

2) I read that somebody put a 24" fluorescent light behind their set... why? what does this do?

3)My screen has a slight tilt... how can I get into the service menu to correct this? I've seen a number of different codes mentioned in this thread.

4) I took the protective screen out and put in a trim kit... what a difference this makes in the picture, removing glare.... how are the screens for the rest of you that have done this? Do you find yourself cleaning the screen more often? what do you use to clean the screen with? Does the cleaner from Mits work?

Thanks,
Greg

1. Are you sure it was a stuck mirror? A true dead mirror will show as a single dark or light spot. Sometimes what looks like a stuck mirror can just be dust on the mirrors (a common problem since the first mirror faces upward), or dust on the inside of the screen. These will usually occupy more than the area of one pixel.

2. No idea - haven't tried it, but I have a window behind mine. Perhaps it gives the illusion of increased contrast?

3. The service menu will not adjust for tilt. It will only allow electronic Horizontal and Verical position adjustment. The actual adjustments for tilt and keystone are on adjusting screws behind a cover that is under the speaker grill. There are pictures of this elsewhere in this thread. The service menu is "TV Menu",2,4,5,7. Just be careful, as you can mess things up easily if you don't know what you are doing. I think there is more detail on these adjustments elsewhere in this thread.

4. I took my screen off too. Simply too much glare in a windowed room with it on. I honestly haven't cleaned it yet, but a damp lint free cloth is what I would start with.

Jeff

http://avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4351024&&#post4351024

yes it's a dead mirror. I have one pixel that is completely black. Very annoying because I know it is there. Anyone else looking at the set can't see it until I point it out.

So in order to fix the tilt a tech has to adjust the engine? can this be done in house or only at the service center?

yes it's a dead mirror. I have one pixel that is completely black. Very annoying because I know it is there. Anyone else looking at the set can't see it until I point it out.

So in order to fix the tilt a tech has to adjust the engine? can this be done in house or only at the service center?

See link posted above. You can try to adjust it yourself by following the instructions in that thread. It is fairly easy once you get to the right test patterns in the service menu. There is one test pattern that shows white, green and yellow rectangles around the outside of the screen. These are very helpful for this adjustment. Once in the service menu, press the FF and REW buttons to go forward and backward through the test patterns. To leave the service menu, press "home". I adjusted mine as best I could, and got it reasonably straight, but there is a slight downward bow in the lower part of the screen. It is minor, and I don't notice it unless I am in the service menu.

Thanks,
Jeff

Did the adjust myself.. No problem. Thanks for the info!

BTW- when using the test pattern that has the white, green and red lines around the border. Which color should outline the border? My guess is red is bad... but which of the other two colors should line the border?

Did the adjust myself.. No problem. Thanks for the info!

BTW- when using the test pattern that has the white, green and red lines around the border. Which color should outline the border? My guess is red is bad... but which of the other two colors should line the border?


red is not 'bad' ... the lines just indicate the amount of overscan present, that is all.

okay so red is not bad.... which of the colors then should I use when centering the image on my screen?

Greg

okay so red is not bad.... which of the colors then should I use when centering the image on my screen?

Greg

You can use any color you want - the lines are all parallel to each other. Just use the adjustments to change the tilt and keystone - a little at a time - until they image is as square to the screen as you can get it. When I get mine adjusted, and centered with the HPOS and VPOS adjustments, I see the white line touching the vertical sides of the TV, the top of the screen shows the white line, while the bottom of the screen shows the white line at the outermost edges, but it transitions to the green in the center. This is the result of the slight bow I have - it only affects the bottom edge, and it bows outward. It doesn't bother me, so I haven't bothered to complain to Mits. I don't see any of the Red line when I have the picture centered. (My TV is a 62525)...

BE CAREFUL in the service menu. I can't recall where I saw it, but when you are adjusting the HPOS and VPOS, make sure that you don't set either one to number I can't remember and then press the "select" button to save the value. (Part of me wants to say that this "bad" value is "0", but I also think it might be 255 or 256. If anyone remembers this, please post here!) Anyway, if you do this, and you push "select" to save the setting, you can lose the picture off screen, and won't be able to see the menus or the picture. This would be bad (and hard to explain to Mits for service purposes).

Thanks,
Jeff

Sorry if this has been answered before: I read that on the Samsung 5067 you can not swap pip from the remote-that you have to access a menu to do this. This is a deal breaker for me. How about on the Mitsu 725? Is it as simple as pressing a button on the remote to swap PIP?

After reading this thread I bought a 52725 today. Got it home and it has a serious case of the tilts. I am talking a few inches from one side to another. I called to get another TV and they do not have anymore (and cannot get anymore for over a month)...so I had to get something else. I know I could have maybe got it fixed, but why are we stuck making service calls for a brand new and expensive TV? Just sort of venting here...they ended up giving me a Sammy HL-R5067W for the same price. This is 3 DLP's now...I had 2 LG's blow up in 2 weeks and now this. Sometimes I think I should just quit watching TV...until football starts. Well I hope the people that have their XX725's like 'em...I enjoyed reading this thread too many times to count. Why does this weigh almost twice as much as the Sammy?

After reading this thread I bought a 52725 today. Got it home and it has a serious case of the tilts....
Sorry to hear about the problem. Recently there was a comment and instructions on how to adjust "tilting".. I'm glad my 52725 didn't have this problem. In fact, right out of the box, the picture was incredible - and everything I hoped this set would be. Even Standard Cable looks better. I have no complaints at all about the "fan noise" issue that seems so common on this Forum. While watching the TV, I never hear fan noise.

Hope your Samsung does the job. I read too much about what Sammy model to get and what to avoid - that it confused me.. One of there DLP was great, and the other not.. The issue sounded strange.

I am now feeling officially snakebit. I am on my third 62725. I mentioned earlier, in spite of having v4.05 and a June '05 manufacture date, I was having to do a reset every time the set was powered down. Last night, after watching for a couple hours I got the following on screen message:

"The set will power down in a few seconds. Please ensure the fan is not blocked."

The set powered down. I hit the reset and powered the set back up only to get the same message within a minute or two. Well, my fan is not blocked and has not been blocked. Service tech will be out on Friday. I am NOT happy.

Sorry if this has been answered before: I read that on the Samsung 5067 you can not swap pip from the remote-that you have to access a menu to do this. This is a deal breaker for me. How about on the Mitsu 725? Is it as simple as pressing a button on the remote to swap PIP?

Can't comment about the Samsung, but on the Mits all you have to do to swap PIP is hit a button on the remote. It's only limit is that you cannot have 2 digital programs side by side using the TV's built in tuner.

"The set will power down in a few seconds. Please ensure the fan is not blocked."

The set is telling you that it is turning off to save itself from an overheating condition. Either the internal temperature sensor is reading a high temperature inside your unit (filter/duct blockage, fan failure, etc) or it's giving a false reading. Either way, you have every right to not be happy, especially considering it's your third unit. Good luck.

I had my tv shutoff a week ago with the same Fan message. The TV is faily close to the kitchen. It was very hot outside (100) and we were cooking something, can't remember what it was, but the temp next to the tv got up to about 81, and i think the humidity in the room was much higher than normal as well. So you might want to note the inside temperature .

..... Last night, after watching for a couple hours I got the following on screen message:

"The set will power down in a few seconds. Please ensure the fan is not blocked."

The set powered down. I hit the reset and powered the set back up only to get the same message within a minute or two. Well, my fan is not blocked and has not been blocked. Service tech will be out on Friday.......

Since we both live in Florida, I have to ask what temperatures do you keep your home? Perhaps you had the windows open and it got too hot and humid in the house.

From time to time, it's good to air a house out, and that brings up the question on how these TV's will re-act to that. What 'really' is their safe "room operating" temperatures?

Hope this helps.....

I had my tv shutoff a week ago with the same Fan message. The TV is faily close to the kitchen. It was very hot outside (100)..... So you might want to note the inside temperature .
Mind Reader!
You beat me by 4 minutes!

LOL !

:-)

I had my tv shutoff a week ago with the same Fan message. The TV is faily close to the kitchen. It was very hot outside (100) and we were cooking something, can't remember what it was, but the temp next to the tv got up to about 81, and i think the humidity in the room was much higher than normal as well. So you might want to note the inside temperature .


81! Like Joe said we both live in Central Fla. The TV had actually been running most of the day (I questioned the wife) except for a short time where she powered the set down during a thunderstorm (we lost 2 Sat boxes from a nearby lightning strike recently). We keep the AC in our house set to 79, so it is quite possible during a long day that the ambient temperature near the set had crept up. The rest of our electronics is in a console under the set, and this also probably contributed to a rise in ambient temp near the set.

I am glad to hear I'm not alone in this. I guess I never would have believed that this set would be sensitive to ambient temps in the low 80's. Thanks for the info.

I need to clarify that it was 81 when i checked it, but I can't really say what the temp was when it shut down, it very well may have been in the upper 80's. And it may have something to do with humidity as well.

I have removed and reinstalled my 62" screen one more time since I posted those instructions, and this time I did it without help from my other half (there was a spider crawling around inside the TV! - I never found it, though). Getting the screen off is easier than putting it back on when you are working solo. If you haven't done it before, I would at least make sure that you have help from someone to get it back on the TV. It is helpful since you can't see the back of the screen to help line up the hooks on the screen that hold it in place.

If you can turn a screwdriver, you can do this. But I will say it again, don't blame me if something goes wrong!

Jeff


I finally got the nerve to take the screen off and clean the mirror etc.. It was just as easy as you mentioned and the smudges are gone and the picture looks great. I just hope that I will not have to keep doing this in order to maintain picture quality. Thanks again for all your help.

I got a 52725 in May. It lasted about 2 months before it died. When it went bad, it would turn on only for a few secs to a few mins before the picture flickers different colors and shuts off giving the bad bulb indication on the front. Since this happens repeatedly, it was obviously not the bulb itself. Mitsubishi sent a new bulb and firmware upgrade (4.05) to change myself, which of course didnt change anything. Finally had a tech come out to look at, and 2 weeks after the first visit and about a month after the tv went bad, its finally fixed. The tech replaced the entire light engine.

Anyhow, from day 1 I had a few issues mentioned here that appears to have disappeared since it broke.

1) I did get the remote lockup once with the original 4.03 firmware, hopefully that is gone now.

2) The bright spot. I had it, although not near as bad as people make it out to be on here. It was BARELY visible on a solid black screen and not at all in just your normal dark scenes, in fact you probably wouldnt even notice if you didnt know what you were looking for, but it was there. Since the new light engine, GONE. No trace of a bright spot at all.

3) I had the sparkle/graininess with the HD content. Some shows were pretty clear while others were unmistakeable. It just definently wasnt as clear as the CRT RPTV this replaced although the overall picture is better. Since the new light engine, more HD shows seem crystal clear, while the ones that arent have considerably less picture noise.

In a way, i'm kind of glad the TV broke even though it was a pain in the butt to deal with and not being watchable for 1/3 its life so far. I have that much longer to go before I have to buy my own bulb since I got a fresh one out of the repair process, and the new light engine seems to have taken care of most of the minor issues. My biggest complaint now is the fan noise. Its not bad when its off, even though its kinda BS the tv draws so much power and needs the fan while off anyways. It's definently noticeable when the set is on though. The room probably plays a part I'm sure, but it takes some getting used to hearing it.

I was wondering about why there needs to be a fan running when the TV is off, so I measured the power being used when my 52525 is off and its about 60 watts!! This is an amazing amount of power for an appliance that's not turned on.

Does anyone have any idea what could possibly need this much power? My Dish DVR (942), which has a disk running all the time and whose tuner is always receiving signals when off only uses about 40 watts (my old one (501) used under 30 watts). Perhaps they keep the NetCommand system going, but even then it should only consume maybe 10 watts or so.

While 60 watts may not seem like much (think of a 60 watt bulb going 24 hours a day), here in CA where our electric rates are skyrocketing, that comes to about $100 a year! Hmmm, that's probably about what it'll cost to replace the lamp in this thing...

-- Andy

I know this is a stupid question, but when you measured this power consumption, you did it after the fan shut off, right?

If so, you are right. That seems excessive. I don't think I have ever seen a typical muffin fan that uses more than 10 watts max. Most seem to be less than 5 watts.

I've been monitoring this thread because I'm interested in the new 1080p Mits that will be coming out soon, to get a feeling for how reliable the present (720p) Mits dlp's have been. I must say that it is all not very reassuring. Do most of you regret having bought a Mits? Though Sammies also have some problems, from reading here it seems that the Mits are just not very satisfactory products (even though the PQ is fantastic when things all work right). Am I getting an accurate picture, or not? I'm not a 'basher', just really wanting to know what the situation is.

Hi,
I possibly regret two things about buying my 62725...I *might* have been better off with a 52" (no strong regret there, at all), and I really want one of the new 1080p sets! I have a very, very slight bright spot (no impact on viewing whatsoever), possibly a very small tilt issue (not really noticable), and that's it. I love the set, and it has treated me well. I was on the Sammy bandwagon early on, planning on purchasing in the PowerBuy, but the picture on the Mits was just a little more realistic to me and that won me over. I still like the Samsungs, and if I decide to invest in a second DLP sometime in the future, could very well end up with one (especially if I go with a relatively small screen). But I do love my Mits, and I have had nothing but compliments on it from everyone that has seen it...

Good luck!
-Randy

P.S. I am still on the original firmware release that came with mine, and I can't even remember what version it is! -R

Hi,
I possibly regret two things about buying my 62725...I *might* have been better off with a 52" (no strong regret there, at all), and I really want one of the new 1080p sets! I have a very, very slight bright spot (no impact on viewing whatsoever), possibly a very small tilt issue (not really noticable), and that's it. I love the set, and it has treated me well. I was on the Sammy bandwagon early on, planning on purchasing in the PowerBuy, but the picture on the Mits was just a little more realistic to me and that won me over. I still like the Samsungs, and if I decide to invest in a second DLP sometime in the future, could very well end up with one (especially if I go with a relatively small screen). But I do love my Mits, and I have had nothing but compliments on it from everyone that has seen it...

Good luck!
-Randy

P.S. I am still on the original firmware release that came with mine, and I can't even remember what version it is! -R

Thanks much for these comments. I'm going to be getting either the Mits 73727 or the Sammy 7178. It may be irrelevant to hear how the Mits 720p sets are doing--hopefully Mits will corrent some of the 'bugs' (e.g., with the main mirror lying flat, so that it catches all the dust!) in them when they produce their second generation dlp's. I suppose I'll just have to look at the Mits and Sammy side-by-side and try to see which looks better.

I had a similar problem. It ended up being the coax cables. I had bought high grade Monster coax cables thinking I would get the best signal. This wasn't the case. The cable guy replaced all my Monster coax with their standard coax. The problem went away. According the the cable guy, HD signals are very sensitive and they their standard stuff works.

I know this is a stupid question, but when you measured this power consumption, you did it after the fan shut off, right?

If so, you are right. That seems excessive. I don't think I have ever seen a typical muffin fan that uses more than 10 watts max. Most seem to be less than 5 watts.

Yup, this was after the TV had been off for quite some time (actually, I checked it quite often over the period of days).

BTW, it's not the fan that's using the power, it the electronics that are still running that's using the power and that's also requiring the fan to keep cool (which is also rather absurd since 60 watts should be able to dissipate without the help of a fan).

The interesting thing is that the TV only uses about 200 - 220 watts when running. If the lamp is 120 watts, then that's only about 80 - 100 watts for the rest of the electronics and DLP stuff, which isn't bad!

-- Andy

It does seem like they have a fair share of problems...however when there are no problems the picture is great. I am returning mine for a Sammy, but only because they cannot get me another Mits for over a month. I have the tilt issue (very bad)...I have been watching the Mits for 3 days now waiting for the Sammy. As long as I lay down when watching the tilt issue is not so bad :)

I got a 52725 in May. It lasted about 2 months before it died. When it went bad, it would turn on only for a few secs to a few mins before the picture flickers different colors and shuts off giving the bad bulb indication on the front. Since this happens repeatedly, it was obviously not the bulb itself. Mitsubishi sent a new bulb and firmware upgrade (4.05) to change myself, which of course didnt change anything. Finally had a tech come out to look at, and 2 weeks after the first visit and about a month after the tv went bad, its finally fixed. The tech replaced the entire light engine.

Anyhow, from day 1 I had a few issues mentioned here that appears to have disappeared since it broke.

1) I did get the remote lockup once with the original 4.03 firmware, hopefully that is gone now.

2) The bright spot. I had it, although not near as bad as people make it out to be on here. It was BARELY visible on a solid black screen and not at all in just your normal dark scenes, in fact you probably wouldnt even notice if you didnt know what you were looking for, but it was there. Since the new light engine, GONE. No trace of a bright spot at all.

3) I had the sparkle/graininess with the HD content. Some shows were pretty clear while others were unmistakeable. It just definently wasnt as clear as the CRT RPTV this replaced although the overall picture is better. Since the new light engine, more HD shows seem crystal clear, while the ones that arent have considerably less picture noise.

In a way, i'm kind of glad the TV broke even though it was a pain in the butt to deal with and not being watchable for 1/3 its life so far. I have that much longer to go before I have to buy my own bulb since I got a fresh one out of the repair process, and the new light engine seems to have taken care of most of the minor issues. My biggest complaint now is the fan noise. Its not bad when its off, even though its kinda BS the tv draws so much power and needs the fan while off anyways. It's definently noticeable when the set is on though. The room probably plays a part I'm sure, but it takes some getting used to hearing it.



Why did replacing the light engine "clean up" your speckly hdtv signal??

I thought I might give a quick update on my 62725 experience so far. I am currently on my third set. To recap, my first set worked 50 minutes before the light engine failed. The second set exhibited the tilt, internal smudge, and reset problems associated with early firmware. The third set (very recent manufacture date and containing the 4.05 firmware) has needed a reset every time the set is powered down and exhibits temperature related shutdowns after 8-10 hours of operation.

I spoke to the SA service tech today. We discussed the problems and he decided to have a new set delivered. I believe the picture quality of this set is substantially better than the two previous ones, and tried to convince him that a repair might be possible but he was adamant that I should not be having these problems on a set immediately after delivery. I guess I can't argue with him.

I am going to be frank here. The picture quality on the Mitsubishi sets are superior in my opinion. However, the multiple problems I have experienced are altering my opinion of the advisability of getting this particular unit. Sound Advice has been superb throughout this process, never doubting my words or failing to provide prompt service. I am going to give it one more try. If I do not succeed in getting a problem free set, I am going to try something else.

According to the service manual there are actually 5 fans. One each for Ballast,Lamp,DMD,Chassis and Exhaust.

Only one runs when the TV is off.


Hmm. I did not see this in the operators manual when I looked. I need to correct my previous post to read "two sets of fans" then and not just "two fans".

Hi,

I just bought a wd52725 2 weeks ago. Does anyone have a problem once awhile the status indicator keep flashing red and i tried to use the control to turn i off but can't. I have to unplug for 5 minutes and it run again. this is really anyoing. before i call a srevcie guys, does anyone encounter this problem with a new tv? Thanks

equate

For those that can record via Firewire -> XP, what drivers did you use? I can't force meidhvs drivers to be installed on my XP SP2 PC.

I've been monitoring this thread.... Do most of you regret having bought a Mits? ......
Absolutely not.

What you see on these Forums are people discussing problems and hoping to get info on how to correct the problem.

My 52725 has been flawless - if even for only 2 months or so since my purchase.

I think most owners do not post here since they are way too busy enjoying their Mitsu purchase!

These Forums have been very useful in directing me to an incredible HD TV. All brands will have some problems, but I think Misubishi did a great job with their DLP line.

It's my opinion that people come here mostly looking for answers to problems; and this is not a direct reflection on the manufacturer of the TV - or the issues a set may have. Perhaps a popularity Poll on purchases would be a better way to see what people like, even though that may not prove anything as for quality.

Why did replacing the light engine "clean up" your speckly hdtv signal??

The light engine was replaced cause it or something in it died, couldnt watch tv. That was just a side effect of the new light engine for some reason. I dont know why. Maybe some electrical noise was making it into the old one or something, who knows.


Anyways, I found out where the test patterns and all were in the set tonight. I suspected the geometry was slightly off after the light engine change, and sure enough it was. I tore into the set and adjusted the verticle and horizontal tilt thumbscrews and the HPOS and VPOS in the service menu, now it's spot on :cool: . I have no bowing in 4:3 'narrow' mode either after that too. Now only if there was a way to tweak the overscan. It's already very good right out of the box compared to the panasonic CRT RPTV tweaked the best I could get it that this set replaced. I dont think its possible from what I read, but it would of been nice to tweak it out as far as picture quality allows.

I'm very happy with this set again, now that it's 100% like new again if not slightly better. As long as it holds up, since it's already needed work, I think this one's a long term keeper.

Well folks, after months of research, reading, waiting, shopping, debating, I finally broke down and bought a 62725 from Tweeter. Got a really great deal. It was delivered this morning and so far so good. Can't comment on much yet since TWC can't come out til Saturday to install an HD DVR box. Plus, I need to get a new DVD player - my old one is a Panny A120 that doens't even do 480P! :( (Any suggestions??).

My only beef right now is that the salesman told me I'd get a "fresh" set and not one that's been in the warehouse for a while, but when I checked the date on the back when I got home from work, it says November 2004. I was hoping for one made at least in May/June. I called him when I got home and he said he'd see what he can do.

I've read some of the info in this thread, but at over 100 pages it will take a while to read all of the posts.

Thanks to all for the feedback provided thus far. It helped lean me toward this direction.

My only beef right now is that the salesman told me I'd get a "fresh" set and not one that's been in the warehouse for a while, but when I checked the date on the back when I got home from work, it says November 2004. I was hoping for one made at least in May/June. I called him when I got home and he said he'd see what he can do.

Don't feel bad - I bought a 52525 at BestBuy about a month ago, got it home, and it was a September 04 build. However, it seems to work just fine without any of the problems people seem to talk about except for a very slight tilt which hardly bothers me. It does have the older 03 software, but I hope to get that updated soon.

-- Andy

I am going to buy a HD tv soon but would like to now if any of the DLP buyers considered a LCD projection like the WD-62528 instead.

I received my fourth 62725 yesterday. No blinking red light this morning after about two hours of viewing last night (hooray!). This item is significant because the last two sets had red blinking lights every morning. The delivery tech (who also delivered the last set) just could not believe all of the problems I have encountered. He told me he had not seen many problems with the Mits DLPs and he thought maybe there was something wrong with my power conditioner.

Somebody has to be at the 3 sigma point on the bell curve, but I wish it wasn't me! We'll give the set an extended run tonight (Pre-season football) and see what happens.

Here's a quick question. I currently am using a Directv H-10 set to output 720p. Would it be better to have the H-10 output native and let the set do the conversion or leave it in the H-10?

I am going to buy a HD tv soon but would like to now if any of the DLP buyers considered a LCD projection like the WD-62528 instead.

As a matter of fact, I did. I was leaning heavily toward an LCD projection - either the Mits or the Sony GW V. While I was looking, I would have the salesman display some sports on the sets. At times, LCD's tended to blur on fast moving events. Not all the time, but it was noticable to me.

DLP will show deeper blacks, but I must say that the new Mits LCD looked really impressive. I was looking at the 62527 series which is lacking a few features seen in the xx528 series.

Don't feel bad - I bought a 52525 at BestBuy about a month ago, got it home, and it was a September 04 build. However, it seems to work just fine without any of the problems people seem to talk about except for a very slight tilt which hardly bothers me. It does have the older 03 software, but I hope to get that updated soon.

-- Andy

I noticed a slight tilt as well yesterday while watching Fox News. No bright spot though and so far I'm happy with the way it looks. I called my salesman at Tweeter and he's supposed to call me back today to see if they can switch it out. I may hold off since everything else looks good.

I also have the 4.03 firmware, but I'm calling Mits today to get the 4.05.

Brian

I am going to buy a HD tv soon but would like to now if any of the DLP buyers considered a LCD projection like the WD-62528 instead.

I suspect that 95% of DLP owners looked at LCD as well. It's really a matter of preference and the forums have a lot of threads with arguments/flame wars from both sides comparing the two. Main pros for DLP are better contrast ratio, better performance in fast moving sequences, less screen door effect and no degradation of the image as the bulb ages. LCDs have no rainbow effect, which may or may not be a big deal to you. This is a very short summary. My personal opinion is to go DLP unless rainbows are a large problem for you. If they are, the DLP may be a bad choice. You'll just need to view both yourself and decide.

I'm seriously considering a new Mits dlp, but am somewhat frightened by the many reports of Mits' poor customer service in dealing with any problems the set might have. I will be getting my new set from Magnolia HiFi, and my fears about Mits are somewhat reduced because Magnolia has told me that they do all repairs themselves, ant then THEY deal directly with the manufacturer.

I would very much like to hear from any of you who have bought your Mits sets from Magnolia, and have some problems with the set, to hear if Magnolia did indeed insulate you from Mits' very unresponsivennes in dealing with problems.

Here's a quick question. I currently am using a Directv H-10 set to output 720p. Would it be better to have the H-10 output native and let the set do the conversion or leave it in the H-10?

I would try the native passthrough option. If it doesn't look good, leave it at 720p (maybe even give 1080i a try). I actually have my Dish 811 set to output 1080i, since the 720p setting looked odd when watching 1080i sources like HDNet and Discovery HD. I find that 720p sources looked OK at 1080i on the Dish, so I left it that way. I don't have a "native" passthrough option, but I would probably use it if I had it!

Jeff

is the tv red blinking lites do that that everytime you turn on or once a day? Did you call the serviceman and what does he said? Thanks

I am about to buy a 62725 and have about the same level of knowledge as you indicated. I would like to have the info concerning your set-up visit. I am new to this site and don't want to violate any rules. How can you get the info to me?

Has anyone tried cleaning mirrors with a small artist brush and a small vaccum cleaner like the ones used to clean computers?

equate, I assume you are speaking to me. One of the sets exhibited the known firmware related problems where the blinking light condition occurred on most shutdowns regardless of time of day, duration of viewing, etc. The last set exhibited the problem after viewing times exceeding one hour. That symptom, along with the thermal message I got after 8+ hours of viewing in a day leads me to speculate the problem was also heat related. Based upon the set being less than a month old, the SA tech apologized for my problems and ordered me a new set.

I watched the set for several hours yesterday with no problems so I'll be calibarating with Avia this weekend.

Mits 52725 - May 2005 build date, Firmware 4.05

Similar to alot of other owners, I have banding, sparkling, "jumping dot's" and such. DVD's, OTA, PC, Svideo and Component 1080i inputs have been used. The problems seems the worst on PC, probably because I have a test screen (AVIA DVD). Nothing seems to help. Mits is still looking at the problem. Using 'real' test equip. Mits service rep said that my mits failed two test screens : sync burst? and gray scale tracking (modulated ramp on AVIA). Any gray scale tracking seems bad though. After three hours, Mits service replaced one board, and fixed sync burst problem. Still having grey tracking failures though. I've never had a high quality TV like this Mits. Also I never had any problems with a new TV. Another problem is that I use HTPC to watch DVD's, and alot of DVD's look very dithered (loss of color depth). Alot of patchiness, white, blue backrounds have alot of dots.

One thing I did try was playing SuperBit DVD's which showed little or none of the grey scale, banding, sparkling dots, etc. Cables didn't seem to make a difference. Cheaper in-expensive cables seemed to work better.

Mits serviceman said that he tried test patterns on another set (62725) and no problems. Why does Mits put out sets that don't work? Quality control?

Currently set is dead because of fan failure. Mits get it together.

I agree with other owners : the picture can look very good but the Mits DLP's have problems, serious quality problems.

Mits 52725 - May 2005 build date, Firmware 4.05


Mits serviceman said that he tried test patterns on another set (62725) and no problems. Why does Mits put out sets that don't work? Quality control?

Currently set is dead because of fan failure. Mits get it together.

I agree with other owners : the picture can look very good but the Mits DLP's have problems, serious quality problems.

If you read the Samsung threads they have similar problems with their units. Not that this excuses Mits per se but I think all DLPs are like this. I'd be curious to see statistics on warranty claims per 100 units for each of the DLP manufacturers as otherwise it's all anecdotal as to who has the most reliable DLP.

I had my chassis replaced due to some audio problems that sounded to me like some sort of problem with the grounding. I think that the truth is that DLP is still not a mature technology and the likelihood of problems vs a rear projection CRT, for example, will be higher for a while. To be fair to Mits, in least in my case they did honor the warranty and send a rep out promptly who fixed my problem

I have the luxury of having both the Directv HDTV stations, and the HDTV stations through comcast, that are picked up by my QAM/ATSC Tuner. (Essentially, everything except ESPN, and DiScovery). The picture on the QAM tuner is blowing the away the picture from Directv, via HDMI. Can anyone suggest a way to fine tune the DIRECTV settings on HDMI. It is not even close right now, the comcast via the Internal tuner is so much clearer. I have tried various video settings as previously posted, but nothing seems to make it "crystal clear".

My current internal tuner settings are:

Contrast 44
Brightness 45
Sharp 13
Tint 25
Color 31
Color temp Low
Reduction
define edge off


Any ideas where I should begin.

The HDMI connection is a RCA DCT210 Directv Receiver. Thanks

Is the "bright spot" still an issue on newer 62725's?
I am looking at buying one for $3,0000 at Sound Advice. After reading about the problems these TV's have had there is no way I'd buy one online now.

Thanks,
~Eric

I'm seriously considering a new Mits dlp, but am somewhat frightened by the many reports of Mits' poor customer service in dealing with any problems the set might have. I will be getting my new set from Magnolia HiFi, and my fears about Mits are somewhat reduced because Magnolia has told me that they do all repairs themselves, ant then THEY deal directly with the manufacturer.

I would very much like to hear from any of you who have bought your Mits sets from Magnolia, and have some problems with the set, to hear if Magnolia did indeed insulate you from Mits' very unresponsivennes in dealing with problems.

I saw that nobody answered you yet. I bought my 52725 from Magnolia here in Oregon on 08-10-05. I haven't had any major problems with it (knocking on wood), just a minor tilt issue that was cleared up with the keystone adjustments and a very slight bowing on the top of the set that you would never notice unless you are looking at a test pattern. I bought the 4 year extended service policy from Magnolia. This is all in home service and covers the unit from top to bottom including lamp replacement (all in writing). From having dealt with Magnolia before, I can tell you that I have never had an issue when getting service. they are usually right on top of things and will get you taken care of as quickly as possible. They seem to pretty much be interested in keeping you as a customer rather than having that one big sale and then walking you forever. I have never had to deal with a manufacturer directly with them, they've always taken care of everything. This is just my experience with them, others may be different, but i wouldn't hesitate to buy from them at all.

As I mentioned in the post above, I became the proud new owner of a 52725 on the tenth of this month. Set has a 12/04 build date and version 4.05 firmware. Aesthetically, I love it. It fits the room and my previous stand so I didn't have to worry about where all of my equipment would go. I spent some time on it with Avia and DVE along with using UMR and scpanel's settings and am very happy with the picture. I had a slight tilt issue that was adjusted out by the keystone adjustments (still 1/16" to 1/8" off on the upper left and lower right) and a slight bow (1/8") on the top center, but neither of these is noticeable at all unless you have the dot test pattern up and then it doesn't look bad at all. I don't see a bright spot and haven't experienced the "sparkles" on any of the inputs. OTA broadcasts in 1080i look amazing and SD looks great (but I get spoiled watching 1080i) I have DirecTv and the picture looks great. I have never been able to put my DVD player in progressive scan and watch it before and I am absolutely loving it. My only problem now is that I want to replace my Denon receiver (AVR-3800) with something like the AVR-3805 that will up convert all composit and s-video inputs and output them through the component monitor out (currently the DVD player is plugged in directly to the TV and I don't get the on screen display from the Denon on the comp1 input. Overall, I'm very happy with this set and am glad that I was able to get a great deal and didn't have to go with the CRT WS-55517 that I had originally picked out. This thread is and interesting read and has some great info.

As I mentioned in the post above, I became the proud new owner of a 52725 on the tenth of this month. Set has a 12/04 build date and version 4.05 firmware. Aesthetically, I love it. It fits the room and my previous stand so I didn't have to worry about where all of my equipment would go. I spent some time on it with Avia and DVE along with using UMR and scpanel's settings and am very happy with the picture. I had a slight tilt issue that was adjusted out by the keystone adjustments (still 1/16" to 1/8" off on the upper left and lower right) and a slight bow (1/8") on the top center, but neither of these is noticeable at all unless you have the dot test pattern up and then it doesn't look bad at all. I don't see a bright spot and haven't experienced the "sparkles" on any of the inputs. OTA broadcasts in 1080i look amazing and SD looks great (but I get spoiled watching 1080i) I have DirecTv and the picture looks great. I have never been able to put my DVD player in progressive scan and watch it before and I am absolutely loving it. My only problem now is that I want to replace my Denon receiver (AVR-3800) with something like the AVR-3805 that will up convert all composit and s-video inputs and output them through the component monitor out (currently the DVD player is plugged in directly to the TV and I don't get the on screen display from the Denon on the comp1 input. Overall, I'm very happy with this set and am glad that I was able to get a great deal and didn't have to go with the CRT WS-55517 that I had originally picked out. This thread is and interesting read and has some great info.

Thanks much for the report. Glad to hear that the Mits has worked well for you. I'm really looking forward to seeing the new 1080ps sets; planning to choose one of them, the Mits or the Sammy.

I just recieved my new Mits 62725 on Sunday and so far so good. No problems, love the picture! The guys from Tweeter that set up the TV said to not make any color adjustments for two weeks! Is this true? I have a friend who will lend me his DVE disk. I am a DLP newbie. Thanks

I just recieved my new Mits 62725 on Sunday and so far so good. No problems, love the picture! The guys from Tweeter that set up the TV said to not make any color adjustments for two weeks! Is this true? I have a friend who will lend me his DVE disk. I am a DLP newbie. Thanks

I've not heard this advice before and didn't get it from the store I got mine from. I did not notice any drift in the settings from what I set up initiallyin my set. I'd say use the DVE now and recheck it later if you get the chance but I'd be surprised if the settings change. You'll notice that some of the of settings you'll chose using DVE are a bit subjective anyway and not as precise as might think.

Here's a question raised on another thread about the use of upconverting DVD players with DLPs:

Does anyone know what chip the Mits uses to convert from, say, a 480i input up to 720p? The Sammys apparently use the Faroujda, possibly the same 2310 chip used in some of the upconverting DVD players.

The discussion was about macroblocking and whether or not the Sammy DLP would or would not have the same problem with this as 2310 DVD players. The question on the other thread was, if the chips are the same why would MB occur with this chip in a DVD player but MB is really not reported as an issue with a DLP? It was not verified on the other thread that the Sammy did in fact use the 2310 but it uses at least something similar. Thoughts?

I've been reading this forum for awhile, and was out today shopping for a DLP tv. I saw the Mitsubishi 62525 at two stores. At the first store, they had the Mitsu next to a Toshiba 52HM84. The Toshiba had a somewhat brighter picture - the Mitsu looked a bit muted. But there was clearly a difference in the details/contrast favoring the Mitsu. I thought it might just be my imagination (after reading a bunch of this thread!). So off I went to another store, where they had the Sammy 6167W, the Toshiba 62HM95 and the Mitsu 62525 all near each other.

Again, the Mitsu looked the most muted (by far), but had the most detail.

The Toshiba did have other exclusive features I liked also - xD memory port, 2 HDMI ports.

Any ideas why the Mitsu looks so much more detailed than the Toshiba that also uses the HD2+ chip (vs. the Sammy with the HD4)?

Anyway, I probably would pick the Mitsu, even though it has that HIDEOUS GLARING screen, except for two issues I'm hoping some here can reassure me on:

1. If I remove that glaring screen, will the picture be brighter? Is this just a "torch" setting on the other two that can't be done on the Mitsu?

2. If I remove that glaring screen, how fragile will my TV be? I have a 4 year old . . . will a bounced tennis ball or thrown pillow break it?

Please help/advise!

Not sure about the chip as I am just getting into this stuff. I have two comments about the glare screen. One - In my home I have a three year old and four cats so I need the screen. Two - To me the screen looks much worse in the store than in my room, although I am lucky in that my family room is very dim even in the day. Also, my father in law who is a big audio/videophile said the screen makes the image softer a more like a tube tv so this is a plus in my opinion. I am happy with my purchase of the 62725. :)

Just a few thoughts...


Again, the Mitsu looked the most muted (by far), but had the most detail.

Many have said just the opposite. Some of this is perception and where you view it, but you also have to make sure the settings are the same. Stores often will play down some sets and make others look better either because of profit margins , how many they have around, or other motives that have nothing to do with the TV itself.



Any ideas why the Mitsu looks so much more detailed than the Toshiba that also uses the HD2+ chip (vs. the Sammy with the HD4)?

Same chip different engine. How you process the signals makes a big difference. I don't know all the technical details, but I do know that I liked the look of the Mits picture better for SD and HD.

Video source/connection can also make a huge difference. You need to be sure you're comparing apples and apples in terms of connection and what kind of signal they're getting. Even if it's the same image on each TV, if one is a direct feed and others are split (or possibly even where they are on the split) can make a big difference in signal quality and consequently image quality (especially for SD).


1. If I remove that glaring screen, will the picture be brighter? Is this just a "torch" setting on the other two that can't be done on the Mitsu?

Marginally, but I'd play with the setting first.


2. If I remove that glaring screen, how fragile will my TV be? I have a 4 year old . . . will a bounced tennis ball or thrown pillow break it?

I don't think breaking is as big a concern as scratching. I'd be a bit concerned. Like someone else posted here as well, the "glare screen" is a much bigger deal in the store and when you are staring at it than when you get it home to watch it.

Hope this helps & good luck!

With regard to glare screens, I took mine off on my 62525 within about 2 weeks of buying it. I recently put it on because my brother-in-law was visiting (with his 21 month old), and I wasn't taking any chances with "MY" baby!

After they left, I thought I would leave it on because it really does give the TV a more finished look, but that only lasted about a week. I couldn't stand the glare and reflections. I could always see myself in the reflections and that is just too distracting!

Is there a way to adjust the INPUT menu for the Mits 62725? In default mode, when you change source, you have to navigate every available input -- regardless of the fact there is a device hooked up or not. Possible to remove some inputs (say Component 2 and 3) from the navigation menu? Or, in a related question, how about renaming some of the numerous inputs?

Thanks in advance.

i think you can move them so the inputs you want to switch between are side by side or cin whatever order you need them. not sure if you can elimante them but that should work for you.

Yes, you can eliminate them by unchecking them in netcommand.

Anyone have any idea why the Mitsu has these properties everywhere I see it:

1. WAY more detail in the picture than other DLPs, even more than other HD2+.
2. WAY less brightness.

Are these two related? In other words, if I go get the Sammy or Toshiba and "turn down" the brightness, will it be more-or-less as detailed an image as the Mitsu?

In other words, if I go get the Sammy or Toshiba and "turn down" the brightness, will it be more-or-less as detailed an image as the Mitsu?

No.

The Mitsus definitely show more detail. It was one of the reasons I bought the TV.

The 52" version is a lot brighter than the 62". I would guess that they use the same bulb in both, and the 62" just looks dimmer as a result.

Can I get a different bulb?

Is there another "anti-glare" screen I can get, or some coating to put on it? That 62525 I'm looking at has a SUPER-glare screen - as if it's made to ADD glare. But they have it at the store I'm looking at, on clearance comparably priced to a 6167W from TVAuthority . . .

Ahhh, what to do?!

I don't think there is another bulb for the set.

If you remove the screen, the TV won't be any more or less protected than any other projection TV. There is a trim kit you can purchase to go around the screen once the glare screen is removed and make it look a bit better.

The 725 series is the same TV, but it adds an anti-glare coating to the clear screen.

As I said before, I absolutely love the detail. It is notably superior to the other sets I've viewed. But the lack of brightness is seriously concerning me. The colors and ability to see the image is far superior in the Sammy and Toshiba.

There's only so much checking it out that I can do at the store - and if it wasn't for the Mitsu being a clearance model, I'd be buying the Sammy or Toshiba from TVAuthority. So I can't really buy the Mitsu and take it home, only to try to return it for a cash refund. I don't know if the store would go along with that.

BTW, Shape, how'd you get your Eclipse to run that time?

I bet you could return it, even if it is a clearance model.

As for my car, I have a larger turbo than stock, an Evo III 16G. I run 24 to 25psi of boost with a spike to 32psi or so on race gas (117 octane) when I am at the track. I have a larger intercooler, custom 2.5" intercooler piping, 3" exhaust, DSMLink engine computer, a boost controller, larger injectors, a larger fuel pump, HKS cams, etc... And my car is one of the more mildly modified ones. ;)

I was just in Ohio this past weekend to race at Norwalk Raceway Park with hundreds of other Eclipses, Talons, Lasers, and Lancer Evolutions, actually. Some pictures I took while I was there: Dyno Day (http://turbocarz.com/shapegsx/shootout/buschurs_shop/) / Race day (http://www.turbocarz.com/shapegsx/shootout/shootout_05/)

I drove out there and got 31mpg in my AWD car, raced, and drove back. I was pretty happy with that.

I've never really considered my 62725 'dark'. It even did 'torch mode' pretty well, really. When I was running two antenna inputs, I used to keep one input set up that way and the other set up using some of the first posted calibration settings here on the forum. It was funny...I would run an A/B comparison for friends and they would all like the 'torch mode' at first...then I would show them the problems (mosquito noise, cartoonish colors, etc.) and have them look at how much more natural the picture was on the other input. It didn't take long for them to see the distinct advantages of the non-torch-mode settings...but I have to admit you don't get the eye-popping (straining?) wow factor that you do with it really lit up...

Quick Question: I've got NetCommand setup with all audio goin' through my receiver. Switching between devices works great...but when I receive a OTA 5.1 sound my Netcommand won't switch to the digital input on the reciever. I've got the AVR setup in NetCommand with the correct "Audio To Digital" and "Digital to Analog" commands. Any thoughts.

As I said before, I absolutely love the detail. It is notably superior to the other sets I've viewed. But the lack of brightness is seriously concerning me. The colors and ability to see the image is far superior in the Sammy and Toshiba.

There's only so much checking it out that I can do at the store - and if it wasn't for the Mitsu being a clearance model, I'd be buying the Sammy or Toshiba from TVAuthority. So I can't really buy the Mitsu and take it home, only to try to return it for a cash refund. I don't know if the store would go along with that.

BTW, Shape, how'd you get your Eclipse to run that time?

The odds of three different sets being set up similarly in the store is about zero. And unless they are side by side the ambient lighting will be different as well. It;s very hard in a large box store to truly do apples to apples comparisons. Also note that brightness and contrast are interrelated and it is possible that one set had the brightness up so that it was "brighter" but was so washed out the contrast looked poor. The Mits in the store generally has the contrast all the way up as this is the default setting, so it is also possible that the contrast on the Mits was set higher than the other brands.

All I can say is that I've not had a problem with being able to see the image at home unless the sun is shining on the set, which will cuase problems with any TV.

I bought a 62725 from UE a few weeks ago. After reading about the quality control issues here and on other boards, I was concerned. I had heard about Tilt, Overheating, Spots (dirty fly wheel assembly, and screen), etc.

I am happy to report a good luck story as my unit has been terrific. I did have a slight tilt issue, which I was able to correct thanks to instructions posted on the forums. Aside from that, the set has been terrific.

I opened the set when I did the Tilt adjustment expecting to see a dirty lens, mirrors and box. Everything was spotless and no cleaning was required.

I am running an Off Air Antenna for some HD channels, a Comcast HD DVR (the 8300HD), and I am using a Sony DVD progressive scan player. The image quality is amazing and the quality is in the order I listed the connections (highest to lowest).

I calibrated the Mits and my Audio system the best I could with my Avia DVD. The set does look better with the Contrast and Sharpness toned down a bit. The Avia also helped me adjust the PerfectColor a bit. I found the Greens (grass) almost neon when using the Auto setting.

I have to say, I am very happy with this round of upgrades (Mits DLP and Comcast DVR), and I am amazed by what comes in off the OA Antenna.

Who would have thought we would ever prefer the quality of local broadcasts over DVDs? The Comcast HD DVR is quite nice too. Tonight, The Lord Of The Rings comes on TNTHD. I am curious to see how much better this looks on Comcast than on my DVD.

As another poster mentioned. There do seem to be a lot of quality issues, but most of us that get a good set, don't post a positive feedback since a good set is what you expect when you pay $3k - $4k. lol

Regards,
Darrell McCombs

Is the "bright spot" still an issue on newer 62725's?
I am looking at buying one for $3,0000 at Sound Advice. After reading about the problems these TV's have had there is no way I'd buy one online now.

Thanks,
~Eric

I just bought my WD-62725 about a week ago. Overall, I am extremely impressed and satisfied with it.

This is my first HDTV even though I have had 2 CRT based RPTV's prior to this. After doing tons of research online I went to Circuit City, Best Buy and HH Gregg to compare the various products on the market. The smallest size I would consider was 50" since this TV is the main display for my home theater.
The plasmas looked nice but the price for a 50"-60" TV is totally unreasonable.
The LCD based microdisplays looked good up to a point. For some reason the images seemed to soften as the size of the displays increased.
DLP was the only way to go, at least for me, in the 50"-60" range.

After looking at LOTS of different DLP based TV's I narrowed my selection down to Samsung and Mitsubishi. As others have stated, the Samsungs seem to look brighter in the showroom but, the Mitsubishi has more detail. This is especially true when looking at dark images. The Samsung would show images of rocks and shadows in the demo video as a mass of black while the Mitsubishi revealed detail and shades of gray.
My wife immediately went to the Mitsubishi and liked that image the best.
HH Gregg gave me the best deal by far so I bought it there.

Once I got the TV home I started looking for any of the problems noted in this thread. My build date is Dec 2004 and the firmware is 4.04.

I had 2 problems...

1) The TV would turn itself off after a couple of hours. I fixed this by swapping out the power strip that I plugged the TV into. Evidently the power strip was not making good contact so this is really not a fault of the TV.

2) It had a slight image tilt problem. I fixed it as good as I could using the front keystone controls and the HPOS & VPOS but it wasn't quite good enough for me. I called HH Gregg and they sent a tech to my home who fixed the tilt. The geometry is almost perfect now.

The very best picture I have seen on this set so far is viewing WTBS OTA here in Atlanta braodcasting Braves baseball games. The quality is jaw dropping beautiful!
The worst HDTV is watching anything on FOX. For some reason their quality is horrible. My 480P DVD looks great but not as good as HD broadcasts.

I just switched from DirecTV to Comcast cable. (my neighbor's tree grew too high and blocked the dish). The HD channels look great on Comcast but not quite as good as OTA. I recommend using the cable box for 2 reasons...1) The channel guide 2) The faster speed for changing channels.

As I said, I am very pleased with my new WD-62725 and have no regrets after living with it for several days.

I bought a 62725 from UE a few weeks ago. After reading about the quality control issues here and on other boards, I was concerned. I had heard about Tilt, Overheating, Spots (dirty fly wheel assembly, and screen), etc.

Regards,
Darrell McCombs

Where have you read about dirty flywheel assemblies? I haven't heard about that one.

The scene where I saw the biggest difference between the Mitsu and Sammy/Toshiba was snowboarding. On the Mitsu, I could see all kinds of detail in the snow - the minor surface imperfections, carve lines and little clumps. On the other TVs, I could see the larger ones, but there was simply less detail - it just looked like smooth, white snow.

Hi all, I am a new poster and have enjoyed reading through this thread. I have narrowed down my choice between the new Sony 50a10 and the Mits 52725. I plan on possibly buying this weekend. If I choose the Mits I will have to decide quickly due to rapidly dwindling inventory. I am building a new home which should be ready last week of Sept. Showcase(tweeter in AZ) has told me I can purchase now and delay delivery of the Mits. They say the 30 day return policy will start the day of delivery as will the 60 day price protection period. If i choose the Sony there is no hurry as it is a new product. I would love any input , especially from anyone who has compared these sets. Important note is i have two boys ages 3,6 and I am concerned about the Sony's lack of screen protection.

I would be very interested to hear dvd players people have found to work best with Mits dlp's. E.g., the Faroudja-based players have Macroblocking problems with Sammy dlp's; do they also with Mits dlp's? Thanks for any input.

I would be very interested to hear dvd players people have found to work best with Mits dlp's. E.g., the Faroudja-based players have Macroblocking problems with Sammy dlp's; do they also with Mits dlp's? Thanks for any input.

I Have a WD-62525 and a Samsung HD-841 (zoran chip) upconverting DVD player (via DVI->HDMI cable) and honestly I do not see much improvement (if any at all) over the 480p signals from this or previous dvd players :confused: Its been said, and the general feeling is the TV itself upconverts the inputs to its native 720p resolution anyway, and probably is doing a better job than any of the upconverting dvd's would anyway... faroudja, zoran, or whoever. :D I think I agree with that.

edit: Oh ... to add, the advantage of the upconverting dvd players (if there is an advantage?) is the digital connection between the dvd player and tv set. (ie: HDMI)

Spiff,

I had thought I read it here and I have read it at HomeTheaterSpot. Some people see a large white "spot". Sometimes it is fixed by cleaning the lamp and mirrors. Other times the spot is caused by dirt or smudges in/on the fly wheel assembly, which can't be cleaned in the field.

This is what I had read anyway. As I don't have any such spot, I didn't delve deep into this issue. If I am reporting the wrong thing, please let me know. I don't want to be a source of bad info.

Regards,
Darrell

Where have you read about dirty flywheel assemblies? I haven't heard about that one.

Took the plunge today and purchased the Mits wd 52725. Took a long hard look at the Sony 50 A10 but the sde on the lcd was too much for me. My wife took a quick look and instantly said ya gotta get the Mits. I got a terrific deal from Showcase ( tweeter). Delayed my delivery till last week of sept. when my house will be ready.30 day ret/exc and 60 day price protection will begin upon delivery. I saved so much $$ that i went for the 5 yr. extended in home service contract. If there are any Arizonans out there on the fence about this one ya better act quickly as they are goin fast. PM me for the price info. Cant wait to watch some hockey and football on this beauty. Thanks to all the posters on the Mits thread your insights and personal experience helped me greatly.

Just got back from HHGregg in Columbus OH. They're discounting the 62725 nicely. I have to go complete the paperwork tomorrow . . . hopefully I'll get it next week.

Thinking about a set of Polk Audio speakers and a JVC receiver . . . any thoughts? The only restrictions are not too expensive and must have black speakers.

Thanks for all your help!

I have added a 5 yr extended warranty with my purchase of 52725. Do you owners out there feel this is a good idea?? I am delaying delivery for a few weeks so i can still cancel the warranty option should i choose to. Would love to see how many of you opted for an ext.warranty, and if you needed it.

I have added a 5 yr extended warranty with my purchase of 52725. Do you owners out there feel this is a good idea?? I am delaying delivery for a few weeks so i can still cancel the warranty option should i choose to. Would love to see how many of you opted for an ext.warranty, and if you needed it.

I got the service plan on mine which I purchased at Ultimate Electronics. Part of the appeal was a 1-time cleaning/maintenance visit (not a calibration or anything like that, though) and the fact that I would get half the value back in store credit if I didn't have any major claims on it. Of course, UE has pulled out of the Texas market, so that won't do me a lot of good now, but the warranty was through another company that should still be good. Anyway, I thought it was a reasonably small price to pay for the peace of mind given that it is still a fairly new technology, etc.

-Randy

I have added a 5 yr extended warranty with my purchase of 52725. Do you owners out there feel this is a good idea?? I am delaying delivery for a few weeks so i can still cancel the warranty option should i choose to. Would love to see how many of you opted for an ext.warranty, and if you needed it.

I got the extended warranty from BB. I haven't had any troubles yet, but I figure I will probably get a lamp replacement or two out of it.

Well I had two choices for the ext. war: one that included a bulb replacement and one that didnt. i chose the latter because with the first one i would have been essentially pre-paying for a bulb. Hopefully my bulb will last a few years and when it does come time to replace they will be cheaper. Mine is a 5 yr inhome warranty through Showcase (tweeter) with thier own service staff. The price diff between the 2 plans was about $250, I think for the peace of mind i'll keep it. Now the torture of waiting till the end of sept. to get the tv!!!

I have added a 5 yr extended warranty with my purchase of 52725. Do you owners out there feel this is a good idea?? I am delaying delivery for a few weeks so i can still cancel the warranty option should i choose to. Would love to see how many of you opted for an ext.warranty, and if you needed it.

I got the 4 year (maximum) in home extended service plan from Magnolia Hi-Fi on mine. I thought it was a pretty decent value at $400 because it covers lamp replacement, an annual cleaning/maintenance visit, and any general service requirements such as geometry adjustmens that you require. It also covers lightning or electrical damage. I would never buy one if it was just an extension of a parts and labor warranty because, in all honesty, if something is going to wrong due to materials or workmanship, it should go wrong reletively soon after you get the TV home. I think the biggest thing to buying extended service contracts is if you see a value in it. I do because there are some services built into the one I bought. If I was independently wealthy and spending the money to replace this television down the road was like paying four dollars for a magazine, I might not buy it.

Spiff,

I had thought I read it here and I have read it at HomeTheaterSpot. Some people see a large white "spot". Sometimes it is fixed by cleaning the lamp and mirrors. Other times the spot is caused by dirt or smudges in/on the fly wheel assembly, which can't be cleaned in the field.

This is what I had read anyway. As I don't have any such spot, I didn't delve deep into this issue. If I am reporting the wrong thing, please let me know. I don't want to be a source of bad info.

Regards,
Darrell
i think the "flywheel" you are referring to is the color wheel.

the smudges/dark spots are caused by dust/dirt buildup on the mirror and they can be eliminated by cleaning them correctly.

i bought a wd 62525 in feb 2005. just recently noticed it is getting the smudges in the top right corner of screen. Gonna take the screen off next week and clean it. everything else has been great.

I got the 4 year (maximum) in home extended service plan from Magnolia Hi-Fi on mine. I thought it was a pretty decent value at $400 because it covers lamp replacement, an annual cleaning/maintenance visit, and any general service requirements such as geometry adjustmens that you require. It also covers lightning or electrical damage. I would never buy one if it was just an extension of a parts and labor warranty because, in all honesty, if something is going to wrong due to materials or workmanship, it should go wrong reletively soon after you get the TV home. I think the biggest thing to buying extended service contracts is if you see a value in it. I do because there are some services built into the one I bought. If I was independently wealthy and spending the money to replace this television down the road was like paying four dollars for a magazine, I might not buy it.

We have very similar warrantees, except yours was More $$ and includes a bulb/cleaning. I think what you got is a good value. The warranty from showcase incl a bulb was well over $500. I couldnt agree more with you on the other points you made.

I would be very interested to hear dvd players people have found to work best with Mits dlp's. E.g., the Faroudja-based players have Macroblocking problems with Sammy dlp's; do they also with Mits dlp's? Thanks for any input.

I have not seen significant MB using my Mits with the Panny S97. I have noticed quite a bit of banding but believe this to be more in the Mits than the S97.

I have added a 5 yr extended warranty with my purchase of 52725. Do you owners out there feel this is a good idea?? I am delaying delivery for a few weeks so i can still cancel the warranty option should i choose to. Would love to see how many of you opted for an ext.warranty, and if you needed it.
I got the 5 yr ext. warranty at HH Gregg. It includes all labor & parts including bulbs and annual cleaning. Damage due to lightning or electrical surge is also covered. All service is in-home.

I already had them come out and fix a minor tilt problem. They sent a tech out within 2 days and followed up with a phone call to make sure I was satisfied with the tech and the service. HH Gregg has their own in-house service team. The tech I got used to work for Mitsubishi. While he was here he also suggested that I get the 4.05 software upgrade directly from Mits and install it. I called Mits and got the upgrade in 2 days. It was free and easy to install.

This is my 4th Mitsubishi in 15 years and I've never had a problem but, this one is more expensive and a LOT more complex than the others so I think it's worthwhile to have the extended warranty. I could easily go through 2 bulbs in 5 years and that more than pays for the cost.

Well, I did it. Bought a 62725, along with a SS system (Polk speakers, HK receiver, Toshiba progressive-scan DVD). It arrives Friday, as does TW Cable to deliver my HD DVR box.

I'm a mess - I can't wait to get it all hooked up. HOLY SMOKE are stinking wires expensive!!! I spent as much on SS/wires/surge suppressor/HD OTA antenna as the TV!

Well, I did it. Bought a 62725, along with a SS system (Polk speakers, HK receiver, Toshiba progressive-scan DVD). It arrives Friday, as does TW Cable to deliver my HD DVR box.I'm sure you'll be quite pleased with your new home theater. The 62725 is a very nice piece. So far, I'm impressed with Mitsubishi, too.

I ordered the 4.05 firmware upgrade and they sent it to me immediately via UPS overnight. Two days after I received it I got a call from Mitsubishi making sure I got the upgrade and that it fixed the problem. Good customer service!

How do you 'order' the newest software (4.05)? Every time I ask for an up-date they tell me that if I'm not having any problems (with 4.03) then you don't need it.
They tell me the new software only affects the Cable card funcitoning and that if it works with my cable company then it is not needed and if I have problem then I will need it. Whats' the real story?

How do you 'order' the newest software (4.05)? Every time I ask for an up-date they tell me that if I'm not having any problems (with 4.03) then you don't need it.
They tell me the new software only affects the Cable card funcitoning and that if it works with my cable company then it is not needed and if I have problem then I will need it. Whats' the real story?

If you are not having any problems, maybe they are right. :)

Otherwise, you might tell them that the TV periodically stops responding to remote commands. This problem was something that was fixed in a recent update. Mine was doing it and the firmware upgrade fixed it. If they need more detail, tell them that the TV just stops responding, for 15-30 seconds, and then suddenly responds again.

Good luck.

Well, I did it. Bought a 62725, along with a SS system (Polk speakers, HK receiver, Toshiba progressive-scan DVD). It arrives Friday, as does TW Cable to deliver my HD DVR box.

I'm a mess - I can't wait to get it all hooked up. HOLY SMOKE are stinking wires expensive!!! I spent as much on SS/wires/surge suppressor/HD OTA antenna as the TV!
LOL CinciFan I feel your pain. Now I almost fell out the chair when the guy told that a 6' hdmi cable was $250. :eek:

Just picked up a wd-62525 for $2124 at NorCal Fry's... Brand new, factory sealed, no open box or refurb... Sunnyvale, CA still has a few left at this price! Fry's is notorious for returns and open boxes but if you make them show you the one they are giving you, you can at least know before you buy if it will be brand new... She looks like she was sitting around for a long time, the factory sealed box says 09/2004, and the manufactured sticker reads Oct' 04, I would of like a 05'er but who cares for $2124, $350 for the stand and tax, it was under $2700 out the door! 30 months no finance from mits to boot :)

The original Fry's sticker said $4299 on it, i got it for half off albeit a year later :) wow, what a price for new, factory sealed 62inch mits dlp! if you're lucky, you too can nab one of the last few.. oh, i think the 52525 was $1799 both awesome prices on the final few of last years models!

I picked up my New 52725 for $2249 at Showcase (tweeter) in AZ. I checked the local Fry's and thier price was $3199 :eek: . They were all out of the 52525/62525. Showcase still had some new 62725 for $2899.

Just got back from HHGregg in Columbus OH. They're discounting the 62725 nicely. I have to go complete the paperwork tomorrow . . . hopefully I'll get it next week.

Thinking about a set of Polk Audio speakers and a JVC receiver . . . any thoughts? The only restrictions are not too expensive and must have black speakers.

Thanks for all your help!

Let me know how you like the Polk's? I will be searching for a set of rears and a center channel.

I haven't listened to them at home yet. I got the "Polk 104" speaker set. It includes a CS1 center, PSW10 Subwoofer (their smallest), two Monitor 30s and two Monitor 40s.

I also got a Harman Kardon 235 receiver and a cheap Toshiba progressive scan 5 disk DVD player.

I'll report back on all of it as I get it going.

I picked up my New 52725 for $2249 at Showcase (tweeter) in AZ. I checked the local Fry's and thier price was $3199 :eek: . They were all out of the 52525/62525. Showcase still had some new 62725 for $2899.

Pricing on the 720p units has really plummeted. Your $2249 price (assuming it to be new and not refurbished) is about $1000 less than what I paid just 8 months ago for a 52725.

I just had the Light engine replaced on my WD-62-725 there's light coming from the back of the unit like a flash light on what looks like a fan hole, I can also see light inside from a grid opening on the left side above the filter. Is this normal?

I just had the Light engine replaced on my WD-62-725 there's light coming from the back of the unit like a flash light on what looks like a fan hole, I can also see light inside from a grid opening on the left side above the filter. Is this normal?

Sounds like they forgot to replace the rear panel inside. Someone else around here had that problem and they had to come back to install it or send it to him...I can't remember. Not a big deal, but annoying and could let dust in. Why did you have to change the light engine?

Please, everyone...

No more posting prices you paid on these TV's...I think it violates some rule on these forums, and even worse, it makes me grumpy about paying the original price a year ago!

I just have to keep telling myself that the extra money that I paid let me enjoy this baby for a year longer than you suckers! :D

Edit: Post 700! Woohoo!!

Please, everyone...

No more posting prices you paid on these TV's...I think it violates some rule on these forums, and even worse, it makes me grumpy about paying the original price a year ago!

I just have to keep telling myself that the extra money that I paid let me enjoy this baby for a year longer than you suckers! :D

Edit: Post 700! Woohoo!!

Roger that. my bad!! :eek:

I guess i probably should have read the forum rules, :rolleyes: but then again i never was anygood at readin directions!! :rolleyes:

....and excellent positive reinforcement comment, re: suckers LOL

Now that these units have been out a while, I'm wondering what kind of bulb life people are getting as compared to the projections. I've got about 2300 hours on mine. What life are people at or, for those who have replaced bulbs, how long did they last?

Now that these units have been out a while, I'm wondering what kind of bulb life people are getting as compared to the projections. I've got about 2300 hours on mine. What life are people at or, for those who have replaced bulbs, how long did they last?

I am at 2470 on my 62525 - still going strong (knock on wood). Past a year now, so I will have to get bulb through the extended warranty from Best Buy.

Sounds like they forgot to replace the rear panel inside. Someone else around here had that problem and they had to come back to install it or send it to him...I can't remember. Not a big deal, but annoying and could let dust in. Why did you have to change the light engine?
Set had sound but no video, They replaced the lamp and light engine and problem persisted. It turned out to be a power supply problem. Looking good right now.

Yes, you can eliminate them by unchecking them in netcommand.

Much appreciated.

Let me know how you like the Polk's? I will be searching for a set of rears and a center channel.Make sure you stay with the same brand of speakers. You need to keep the timbre equal... Don't mix speaker manufacturers. Sorry, I know this is off Topic, but it's important to know...

I am at 2470 on my 62525 - still going strong (knock on wood). Past a year now, so I will have to get bulb through the extended warranty from Best Buy.
I'm at the one year mark as well and at 2958 on my 52525. Occasionally I see some twitching of the lamp intensity, like there's a bad connection or something. Doesn't happen enough to be bothersome and hasn't gotten worse over time. Just a sign on bulb degradation, i guess.

I just bought a 52725 and it's great. Went from a cheap 32 inch to this monster. So far so good. HD Tivo is coming at weeks end. I do have one question. A buddy of mine who has this says that you can lock the controls on the front panel so the kids can't mess things up. I've search the thread, the net and the manual and can't seem to find that anywhere. Anyone know about it? Thanks

Just got my new 52725 delivered and set up this weekend. I am pretty technically capable but am very new to the whole HD market. I would love to hear any advice those of you who have had the set for a longer time and may be more knowledgeable on the HD side would have.

Here is my set-up:
Mitsu 52725, Denon DVD1710, Comcast Motorola 6412 DVR, Denon DRA 295, Def Tech BP7006.

I have a pretty small room with low ceilings (basement family room)

Any advice is welcome as to settings etc.

For the past several days, on Sacramento channels, I've lost ALL digital OTA signals. Previously, I had terrific reception on both analog and digital signals, now just analog. could this be a setting or a malfunction of my 2 month old Mitsibushi? It would seem so however, with the exception of getting no digital OTA signals, every other aspect is fine. When I perform a "search" it checks for, than passes the digital signals as if they aren't there at all.
For those in the Sacramento area, are they there?
Thanks for the help.

For the past several days, on Sacramento channels, I've lost ALL digital OTA signals. Previously, I had terrific reception on both analog and digital signals, now just analog. could this be a setting or a malfunction of my 2 month old Mitsibushi? It would seem so however, with the exception of getting no digital OTA signals, every other aspect is fine. When I perform a "search" it checks for, than passes the digital signals as if they aren't there at all.
For those in the Sacramento area, are they there?
Thanks for the help.

Use the reset button on the front of the TV (the small recessed one that you have to push with a pen or paperclip). There were issues with loss of digital channels on some older firmware versions. A "reset" fixed the problem when it happened to me, and the firmware upgrade prevented it from re-ocurring. If you don't have the latest version, call Mitsubishi and have them send you the latest upgrade.

Sounds like an easily correctable problem.

Spiff 72,

You always come through with a response!
I'll try it this evening, thanks.

Spiff 72,

You always come through with a response!
I'll try it this evening, thanks.

Good luck :cool:

I have a WD-52725 that I am having a problem with ..... At some point during the set up I "disabled" my TV speakers and now I cant figure out how to turn them back on. In the setup menu - the "TV Speakers" option is greyed out. Please help :-(

Make sure you do not have A/V Receiver selected in the Device Selection menu. This will automatically turn off the TV speakers.

Click the Device up/down button on the remote until the device you are having problems with is highlighted. Look at the display in the upper right corner of the screen. You will see Audio. There will be an icon for TV Speakers and an icon for A/V Receiver. Make sure the TV Speaker icon is highlighted in yellow.
If it isn't you can click the Audio button on the remote to go to this part of the screen. Use the left/right selection on the remote to select TV Speakers and click enter.

See PAGE-73 of the Owner's Guide.

Use the reset button on the front of the TV (the small recessed one that you have to push with a pen or paperclip). There were issues with loss of digital channels on some older firmware versions. A "reset" fixed the problem when it happened to me, and the firmware upgrade prevented it from re-ocurring. If you don't have the latest version, call Mitsubishi and have them send you the latest upgrade.

Sounds like an easily correctable problem.



SPIFF72,

Absolutely correct!
I hit reset and (after it timed out, of course) all digital channels reappeared.
Interestingly, I upgraded to the latest software version, 4.05 as per your suggestion a while back so it would seem that it had negligible effect on the OTA digital reception.
Again, thanks for your timely, accurate assistance!

I have a Mits 52725. I have been noticing a green ghost tint around my cable TV pcitures. I don't have HDTV. This doesn't happen while watching DVD.

I called Mits and the technician who came out squarely blamed it on the Tv signal. I called the Cable company and they came out and didn't find issues with the strength of the signal.

Does someone have the same problem and if so what's the resolution?

Thanks

I have the same green tint on our main programming, E* in this case. It's not present with DVDs, like you said, and I have not seen it with OTA signals.

I have not resolved the issue yet, but I believe it's from the use of an RF modulated signal into the TV from the satellite. Worst connection to use, I know, but a necessity of my current wiring setup.

I may try some receiver swapping to get a better connection and see if that resolves the issue. I'll post back with the results if there isn't an answer by the time I get to it.

I have a Mits 52725. I have been noticing a green ghost tint around my cable TV pcitures. I don't have HDTV. This doesn't happen while watching DVD.

I called Mits and the technician who came out squarely blamed it on the Tv signal. I called the Cable company and they came out and didn't find issues with the strength of the signal.

Does someone have the same problem and if so what's the resolution?

Thanks

It's not just a matter of the signal strength but also how that signal is passed to your TV. What kind of connection are you using? I'd recommend at least component for the best results on this TV.

I have a Mits 52525 with the 03 firmware. I have a Motorola HD DVR 6412 Phase 3 hooked up via HDMI. I keep getting this low volume audio crackling noise, more prevalent in the menu and on analog channels. I had this hooked up through component and didn't have any problems.

I also had the same audio problem when I bought a Panny S97S hooked up via HDMI that I returned.

Has anyone had any audio problems with the HDMI port on their Mits DLPs? I just find it highly dubious that it is the fault of the cable or device when both devices worked fine with analog audio and I used both the Panny HDMI and now a Pacific Cable HDMI cable.

Is it a firmware issue, HDMI port issue, audio processing issue, and can it be resolved? I've pretty much run out of inputs for the TV and it irritates me having a TV that has a port I can't use because of this annoying audio problem.

I have a Mits 52725. I have been noticing a green ghost tint around my cable TV pcitures. I don't have HDTV. This doesn't happen while watching DVD.

I called Mits and the technician who came out squarely blamed it on the Tv signal. I called the Cable company and they came out and didn't find issues with the strength of the signal.

Does someone have the same problem and if so what's the resolution?

Thanks

As I mentioned in my previous post, I moved a box close enough to connect to an input other than the coax/ant. I tried s-video and the difference was immediately noticeable. The green tint was always present in the menu system and most noticeable around faces. The input change eliminated both.

The resolution for me is going to be to get that box moved and switch to an s-video input. I didn't try the composite at the time, so I don't know whether that would get rid of the tint as well.

I'd like to find out what connection you're using to make sure it's the same issue.

Can anyone confirm that the coax audio out form the TV will only send digital audio from the internal tuner? I have a HD Tivo hooked up with HDMI and get no audio from the coax output. I do get digital audio out when using the internal tuner.

Hi all,

Finally got around to tinkering with Xebian 1.1.4 on my Xbox, and was wondering if anyone had a working modeline for the 62725<->Xbox via component cables?

TIA,

Justin

Can anyone confirm that the coax audio out form the TV will only send digital audio from the internal tuner? I have a HD Tivo hooked up with HDMI and get no audio from the coax output. I do get digital audio out when using the internal tuner.

Yes, you are correct. If you want digital sound to your avr, connect it directly to the HD Tivo via a coax or optical, and set net command on the tv to avr (tv speakers will be off) It's too bad the tv does not have pass-through digital sound connection for components, as this would make the hdmi connection more functional. If you run your OTA through the HD Tivo, then all your audio will be going directly to the avr, and the bonus is that you have an excellent ota tv guide same format as satellite channels. The tv's built in "guide" for ota is sadly lacking, and the picture quality is virtually the same. Also, channel changes may be faster through the Tivo.

I am really very disappointed with the picture that you get with a DVI to HDMI cable with this TV. It looks TERRIBLE compared to the VGA input. The HDMI colors look horribly muted and soft. The VGA input looks vibrant and sharp.

Considering the fact that HDCP is going to be a very important feature in the next couple years, I feel like I'm going to be giving up my PQ for these movie execs. :(

Has anyone managed to fix the muted color of the HDMI input?

Thanks fishguts, that what I thought. What a waste to have an HMDI cable which lets use one wire for audio/video and then have to run a second cable to actually use the digital audio. You would think they could make the TV pass all digital audio through the coax output.

jmiliz,

From what I understand (based on a discussion in the iScan VP30 thread), the non-separation of audio from the video signal is an HDCP license copy-protection limitation.

Now, I can't imagine why that would be a problem considering that you have a nice, clean unprotected digital output on every HDMI-output device I've seen so far, but apparently it is. Go figure?!?

-John

There is one other issue I am having with my TV, and that is that the bulb tends to flicker between dim and bright. This is particularly visible on screens where nothing is moving, like a bright computer screen.

I'm thinking of calling up to have service done on the TV. It is only 7 months old. It has gotten progressively worse over the past few months.

Good day all. First I wanted to thank all who make this forum an exceptional information source. I’m getting ready to pull the trigger on the purchase of a 73” Mitsu. I’m considering the WD-73727 and WD-73827. I’m don’t really see myself taking advantage of the 2nd tuner offered in the xx827 series, what I was curious about was to hear some pros and cons as they relate to Antiglare / Protective screens. Very much appreciate anyone’s thoughts, comments, etc.. Thanks all!!

I am really very disappointed with the picture that you get with a DVI to HDMI cable with this TV. It looks TERRIBLE compared to the VGA input. The HDMI colors look horribly muted and soft. The VGA input looks vibrant and sharp.

Considering the fact that HDCP is going to be a very important feature in the next couple years, I feel like I'm going to be giving up my PQ for these movie execs. :(

Has anyone managed to fix the muted color of the HDMI input?

Shape,

What are you feeding the TV's HDMI with? You say it is a DVI output, but is it from a video device of some kind, or is it a PC?

I tried a DVI to HDMI cable from my PC, and I found that the VGA output looked much better. I just don't think that HDMI input handles PC formats very well (or at least I never found a good one).

I have also tried the DVI output on my satellite receiver (a Dish 811) with a DVI/HDMI cable, and the colors were muted as you said. I am not going to blame the TV, though, until I am able to try another device on HDMI. I have read other reports about my sat receiver that say that they have similar results on different TVs. As a result, I suspect that this is a Dish problem.

Shape:

I have a Dish 942 and have experienced the same condition as you and spiff72. In my case (and maybe Spiff72's) our reveiver came with a DVI/HDMI cable. If it were straight HDMI I don't know if it would be better or not. I just ended up using the component connections. These were much better.

Yes, I was using a computer to feed the HDMI input using a DVI to HDMI cable. One thing I forgot was that I haven't tuned the color of the HDMI input. The VGA input can't have its color tuned, which is fine because it is pretty much spot-on.

The DVI to HDMI cable is literally just wires. It wouldn't matter if it were an HDMI output on the computer or a DVI output. It should look the same.

Yes, I was using a computer to feed the HDMI input using a DVI to HDMI cable. One thing I forgot was that I haven't tuned the color of the HDMI input. The VGA input can't have its color tuned, which is fine because it is pretty much spot-on.

The DVI to HDMI cable is literally just wires. It wouldn't matter if it were an HDMI output on the computer or a DVI output. It should look the same.

I agree on the DVI vs. HDMI point. They are pin-compatible.

I still want to get a device like an upconverting DVD player or a satellite receiver with an HDMI or DVI output to try (other than Dish Network stuff).

I have heard others comment that the HDMI signal may be more realistic or lifelike, and that the vibrant colors on the component output are unrealistic. There may be some truth to this, but I would still like to see some objective test results. I do think that my HDMI looks a bit crisper than component, but with muted colors. It was much worse, but I tried modifiying the settings to match a post that was made here for the HDMI input on this TV. These changes helped, but still didn't make it look like the component input.

Hey Guys, I just picked up my 52725 at Bernies in Springfield for $1999 yesterday and after reading this thread I am a little concerned that there may be some issues but hoping for the best. I did get the 4 years extended warrenty so if anything goes wrong I am covered.

One question I had was does this come with any component cables in the box? I want to be ready to hook up my comcast pvr to it as soon as I get it and did not want to dump $60 on monster cables at the store so I am not sure if I should hit walmart maybe and buy the $20 RCA (brand) component cables, is there really much different as far as quality goes?

Also what is the easiest way to hook up a HTPC to this? I ordered the BTC 9019URF, wireless 802.11g PCI card and some memory to hookup an older Celeron 2.4 I have and I was not sure what the best way to hook it up would be. As of now I only have a standard VGA out and thats it, no AGP slot and no DVI output. I would like sound but if it would be a pain it is really of no big use to me unless I start running it as a DVR which I am still very new to.

Thanks in advance,

oki

Use a VGA cable to hook your PC up to the TV. However, on-board video won't really be good enough to take advantage of this TV.

Use a VGA cable to hook your PC up to the TV. However, on-board video won't really be good enough to take advantage of this TV.

Oh so there is an actual VGA slot in the back? I asked the guy and he said no DVI or VGA so I figured there was probably another way.. Do you suggest I upgrade to a decent PCI even if it is just being used for checking email and browing online? I probably will not use it as a DVR or watch any DVD's on it at this point.. I may look into a mini mac down the road when I have some cash to spend.

If you are just talking browsing and email, on-board video should be fine. HD and DVD playback needs a bit more horsepower.

Comcast should provide you with component cables when they bring out the DVR. If you want to use the HDMI connection, you will need to provide your own cable.

Most onboard video solutions won't get you running 1280x720@60Hz via the VGA port. You'll probably run 1024x768, 800x600 and 640x480 but have the black borders on the side.

Use a VGA cable to hook your PC up to the TV. However, on-board video won't really be good enough to take advantage of this TV.

And if your video driver doesn't allow for custom video timing, get the "Powerstrip" program and you can set up your own custom resolution, eliminate overscan, and get a nice 1:1 pixel mapping.

Has anyone tried using a component out video card instead of the VGA?

Hey guys, I am a new 62525 owner and to hdtv!... I am wondering what benefit, if any, a upconverting to 720p or 1080i dvd player will have? Basically what's the best way to watch dvds on my new 62? Will a plain old 480p dvd player look the same as a upconverting dvd player since my mits upconverts anyways? I did search first but couldn't easily find this info pertaining to our mits' so your input is appreciated!

Thanks a bunch guys that is exactly what I needed to know!

There is one other issue I am having with my TV, and that is that the bulb tends to flicker between dim and bright. This is particularly visible on screens where nothing is moving, like a bright computer screen.

I'm thinking of calling up to have service done on the TV. It is only 7 months old. It has gotten progressively worse over the past few months.
I have been experiencing this effect for the last couple of months until recently. The lamp flickers in brightness...not a great deal...but most notably on static screens like my PC's desktop. I didn't notice it getting worse over the course of those 2 months, but it suddenly went away and I haven't seen it happen the last couple of weeks. My set is a year old with 3K hours on it.

I have had my 52725 for almost a year now and within the last 6 weeks have started to notice something strange:

From time to time it is as if the screen tears down the middle (actually just off center to the left) and the two halves of video are not in sync. This usually only lasts for a split second or two but it is becoming more frequent. That is the simplest way I can explain it.

I searched this thread for words like rip and tear with no luck. I am wondering if any of you have experienced what I have with your xx725. Also, I have seen this from multiple video sources.

Thanks!

I have had my 52725 for almost a year now and within the last 6 weeks have started to notice something strange:

From time to time it is as if the screen tears down the middle (actually just off center to the left) and the two halves of video are not in sync. This usually only lasts for a split second or two but it is becoming more frequent. That is the simplest way I can explain it.

I searched this thread for words like rip and tear with no luck. I am wondering if any of you have experienced what I have with your xx725. Also, I have seen this from multiple video sources.

Thanks!

I know what you are talking about. I have seen this on my 62525 as well. I am not sure what causes it, and I just ignore it. I haven't noticed it happening more frequently, and I only remember seeing it on SD sources. I can't recall seeing it on an HD source.

I purchased a Sony HDR-HC1 HDV camcorder. It records HD video in mpeg2 format. I believe others have used the firewire hookup on other brands successfully. I hooked it up to the front firewire input and the TV detected a new device. The TV remote was able to control the camcorder, but the video was corrupted. All I could see were different blocks of the image, kind of like a large mosaic. I reconnected the camcorder to the TV via component and the video played fine. I read on another forum that someone else with the same TV had the same issue. Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be?

Thanks

Hey guys, I am a new 62525 owner and to hdtv!... I am wondering what benefit, if any, a upconverting to 720p or 1080i dvd player will have? Basically what's the best way to watch dvds on my new 62? Will a plain old 480p dvd player look the same as a upconverting dvd player since my mits upconverts anyways? I did search first but couldn't easily find this info pertaining to our mits' so your input is appreciated!

Don't do it.

I wasted $200 on the LG upconverting HDMI player. I had other issues with the player, but on picture quality alone I find that the TV does a far better job than the DVD plyer. In fact after trying various permutations, I now have my DVD sending 480i and letting the TV do the rest. That gives me the best picture.

Even if other players do a better job than mine at upconverting, I doubt that they do it any better than the Mits. FWIW, I have a 62725.

I purchased the Denon DVD1920 for my Mitsubishi 62525. I had the Denon DVD1600 at first but wanted to try an upconverting dvd player. At first I was disappointed with the 1920 because I felt that the HDMI didn't have the punch that the 1600 had but, after calibrating it, I'm inclined to believe that the 1920 gives a sharper, more detailed picture than the 1600.

Granted I am a mits noob and a hdtv noob but i swear to you guys that i've read and searched more than anyone should!

Mits wd-62525, v4.05 ----

OK, some q's...

1)service menu explanations? spiff said he'd get the service menu explanations, did you? could not find them :( I am a tweaker at heart and NEED to know what they do :) ... 1a) slight tilt problem and do not wat to open up the set if i don't have to... some say there is a tilt in the service menu, some don't... what is the final answer?

2)I thought the mits was native 720p and everything always displayed in this res? how come my xbox dvd player shows 480i and my samsung dvd player shows 480p (both using component) shouldn't these be upconverted to 720p? very confused on how upconverting and inputs work :( I thought EVERYTHING ran 720p, no?

Thanks!

Riz, on item 2... The display itself is indeed native 720p. Your various sources (xbox, dvd player) each put out different resolutions/interlacing, and the Mits is just showing you what it sees on each input. Internal to the Mits, each input (expect for VGA & Firewire) is converted to analog, undergoes some additional video processing, and then is converted back to digital at 720p before going to the light engine.

Riz,

I don't recall saying I would find the explanations of the service menu items...

There is no tilt correction in the service menu that I am aware of. The only items that are useful there in regards to the tilt would be the horizontal and vertical position adjustments. The corrections for tilt must be done by adjusting the screws under the cover behind the speaker grille. There is a pretty detailed explanation/photo set that shows these adjustments. I think it is in this thread somewhere, or maybe in the xx525 thread...

Good luck.

Gents need your advise, my new Mits seems to have the bright "light" spot directly in the center of the screen. The spot seems to only be there during daytime hours (even with the set off) and goes away once it's completly dark. Had a tech come out and he said this is common for projection sets and more so on the Mits tv. Was advised that it is light from the room entering the tv and reflecting off the mirror onto the screen causing the six inch diameter circle. Need your expertise to confirm if this is normal. Need to know if I should switch to a different type of television to avoid this. The room is almost completely dark ie blinds drawn and the problem still present.

Gents need your advise, my new Mits seems to have the bright "light" spot directly in the center of the screen. The spot seems to only be there during daytime hours (even with the set off) and goes away once it's completly dark. Had a tech come out and he said this is common for projection sets and more so on the Mits tv. Was advised that it is light from the room entering the tv and reflecting off the mirror onto the screen causing the six inch diameter circle. Need your expertise to confirm if this is normal. Need to know if I should switch to a different type of television to avoid this. The room is almost completely dark ie blinds drawn and the problem still present.

I am guessing you have the xx725 model, and not an xx525 model? I have a xx525 with the glare screen, and I removed it. This leaves only the matte "sub-screen" and there is a glare present. I haven't seen the outer screen on the xx725 models, but I am guessing it has a finish like the "sub-screen" of my TV. I don't think that the source is light entering the TV, but is just the matte finish of the screen reflecting the light in the room. Perhaps you could take a picture of the spot and post it here?

Although it is tough to say without seeing it, I would guess that it is normal.

I'm having a local company come out and fix my Mitsu 52725, it has a problem with not reading my Smart media card. I also want them to do a good cleaning while inside too.

Is there anything I should ask the tech to do or check while in the TV ? Are there certain setting I should ask them to check and make sure the tv is working the best it can ? What are the things that need to be checked ? Any common problems with the mitsu DLP's that I should know about ?

I also have a black dot on the screen and it might be a bad pixel, I was told by the tv salesman that it was dirt or something inside the tv. If the black dot is a bad pixel, should I ask the company that sold it to me, to replace the tv ? It came that way and i really don't like having the dot, I've had the tv for about 6 months.

I really don't think my picture quality on cable is good, can it be made better by the tech ? My hd pic is really good, I guess a bad signal from the non-digital part of my cable company is just going to give me a poor picture.

Thanks for any advice....

Currently my Cable box is connected to the ANT-1 input of the TV using Co-axial cable. I changed the cable box once already. As you mentioned the green tint is really noticeable around faces.


As I mentioned in my previous post, I moved a box close enough to connect to an input other than the coax/ant. I tried s-video and the difference was immediately noticeable. The green tint was always present in the menu system and most noticeable around faces. The input change eliminated both.

The resolution for me is going to be to get that box moved and switch to an s-video input. I didn't try the composite at the time, so I don't know whether that would get rid of the tint as well.

I'd like to find out what connection you're using to make sure it's the same issue.

I do see many more rainbows now than I did, but so far no eyestrain or headaches, and it is still when looking away from the set quickly or on some lesser quality SD stuff, from time to time.

There sure isn't any reason to keep a set that you can't enjoy...good luck with the Sony!

-Randy

I too have just started to see the rainbows :( I have come to a few preliminary conclusions about who/why some of us see them...

1) I too could not see them in the store and i think possibly the #1 reason for that is LIGHTING... th store is so bright that I believe that makes it that much harder to see them... i have yet to see rainbows in moderate to high lighting conditions

2)Size of screen and viewing distance... I am only 9feet away from a 62" which means my eyes actually have to move around the screen to see... when my eyes move around is when i see the rainbow effect.. as i move further away and can see more of the screen without the need to move my eyes which decreases the effect tremendously (for me)

I've only had my new mits 62" for a couple weeks and I had not noticed rainbows until last night.. I rented CRASH and i easily saw dozens of rainbow instances :( my room was dark, the movie was dark... i had not seen any rainbows on regular tv and with normal lighting so my early ideas are based on that...

dark room, dark scene and too close are why so few people actually see them, they have to fall in certain conditions such as these so hmmmmm.... i am pretty bummed right now and we'll see if i can fight through the rainbows because crash was simply ruined last night and i'm not sure the dlp is for me until they go with 3 chips and no rainbows :(

I too have just started to see the rainbows :( I have come to a few preliminary conclusions about who/why some of us see them...

1) I too could not see them in the store and i think possibly the #1 reason for that is LIGHTING... th store is so bright that I believe that makes it that much harder to see them... i have yet to see rainbows in moderate to high lighting conditions

2)Size of screen and viewing distance... I am only 9feet away from a 62" which means my eyes actually have to move around the screen to see... when my eyes move around is when i see the rainbow effect.. as i move further away and can see more of the screen without the need to move my eyes which decreases the effect tremendously (for me)

I've only had my new mits 62" for a couple weeks and I had not noticed rainbows until last night.. I rented CRASH and i easily saw dozens of rainbow instances :( my room was dark, the movie was dark... i had not seen any rainbows on regular tv and with normal lighting so my early ideas are based on that...

dark room, dark scene and too close are why so few people actually see them, they have to fall in certain conditions such as these so hmmmmm.... i am pretty bummed right now and we'll see if i can fight through the rainbows because crash was simply ruined last night and i'm not sure the dlp is for me until they go with 3 chips and no rainbows :(

Give it some time. I had the exact same experience, but I got used to it. 11 months later I wouldn't trade my 62725 for anything.

HELP!!!

I have had the 52525 for almost a month now and I absolutely love it. Recently I have had some color issues with both my DVD input (component connection) and my HDTv (HDMI connection)

I've had a green tint and many primary colors appear almost cartoonlike or painted mostly the brighter greens and blues. Any ideas on how to resolve this???

Thanks

The first thing to do is make sure the Auto Color is turned off for each input. Press the Menu button and select Setup. Auto Color should not be checked.

I need some help and advice with my Mits725. I had to do a reset a week or so ago, and after I reset, when I press the DEVICE button I get _all_ the options shown as icons. Previously, I only had the icons for devices that were actually connected or being used. After the reset, I seemed to have a dozen or so icons that I can select from and I'd like to only have the ones I'd actually use (IOW; DTV, Cable-1, DVD, CD, VCR, Receiver). So how do I "edit" these extra icons out of the on-screen menu when they seem to be greyed out when I try to use Net-Command?

I have my HD DTV unit cabled to the COMPONENT-1 Input... but I probably should have it to the DTV Component Input... right? Forgive me for not being a total audiophile, but I'm also wondering about what exactly would be the best audio connection for various inputs. I have a Yamaha Receiver and I'm wondering if the audio cables should be routed into the Yamaha so my Bose Surround Sound speakers would be optimized. My son thought I should use both the audio input connections on the TV as well as the amp. That sounds redundant and maybe less efficient. Any suggestions?

My other issue is that I have Comcast Cable (and cablecard) with the basic HD package. So I get CBS, DSC, INHD 1 & 2, TNT, PBS, and NBC. I used to get FOX HD, but the channel is now missing from the Cablecard guide (I believe it's 861). Has anyone here _lost_ channels while using the cablecard? The first time I called Comcast, they told me to power down the set completely while they sent some sort of signal, wait a couple of minutes, and then repower the set. I think it worked and Fox re-appeared on the menu. But with this latest reset issue, even when I powered down, the station didn't show up.

Why does it take 10 minutes to re-learn all the cable channels? Is there an easier way to do this? Lastly, what is the latest software rev for the 62725, and does it include the guide software that was deleted when the sets first came out? Would the 62825 software update work in the 62725?

Lot of questions, but thanks in advance for the help.

Mike

To get rid of the icons, you have to go to the TV menu, NetCommand, Review, and then uncheck all of the ones that you don't want.

For the DTV component connection, you are OK using one of the other component inputs. There are annonyances with warning messages when you use the DTV input, since it is a "special" component video input that is able to auto-select the correct settings for a Y, Pb, Pr signal (3 cable), or the 5-cable type of connection (I can't remember what this type is called, but it adds two more connections for sync, I think). I would just keep the connection that you have it hooked up to.

That DTV input on the TV is better used when you don't ever turn off the unit that is connected to it. If it is off, you get warning messages on the TV. I think there is a menu option in the TV that allows you to select the type of connection to this port, but I don't think it is worth the effort unless you don't have any other inputs to choose from.

I am afraid I can't help with your other questions.

Currently my Cable box is connected to the ANT-1 input of the TV using Co-axial cable. I changed the cable box once already. As you mentioned the green tint is really noticeable around faces.

I have since moved my receiver and established a permanent s-video connection to the set. The green tint is now gone and pictures are noticeably sharper.

Since you said in your previous post that you do not have HDTV and AFAIK a cable box signal wouldn't be able to pass HD through the coax anyway. I'd recommend connecting the cable box to the TV with whatever is the best available connection on the back of the box. In decreasing order, component video, s-video, then the yellow composite RCA connector. I haven't actually tried the composite to verify that it removes the green tint. I can swap the two fairly easily today. I will report back only if the green tint returns or if the picture is significantly different than the s-video connection.

Just wanted to provide some data that might help other Mits DLP owners.

A few weeks ago a message flashed across the bottom of the screen on my 52725 telling me that the lamp had gone over the usual hours that would dictate replacement. Since the unit was less than one year old I called Mits for warranty support.

They took my credit card number for the transaction. They sent out the replacement lamp with instructions to return the old lamp. The credit card number is taken just in case you do not return the old lamp.

I had also noticed during the last few months that a few blotches had become noticable. As has been reported on many occations, these are dust particles that have settled on the mirror that sits in from of he lamp as opposed to dust on the big rear mirror. I had not done anything about it when they first appeared as decided I would get as much done in one visit as possible. I wanted to be able to watch a repair guy pull the thing apart to get inside so that I could do these repairs myself next time around.

The repair guy arrived as planed and I watched him get into the set. He did clean the mirror as planed and sure enough the blotches disapeared. He also replaced the lamp. Once the set was up and running I was amazed at the improvement in picture. More telling than the lack of blotches was the degree to which the general level of dust had been impairing the quality of the picture accross the entire screen.

Once you have seen a repair proffessional pull the set apart I would recommend careful cleaning of the mirror on a regular basis. It is clearly essential to full enjoyment of the set. In addition I was surprised at how easy it was to get into the set. As long as you are careful you should have no difficulty getting to the mirror to perform the cleaning. You can carefully remove dust from the big mirror as well. However that will not be near as telling as removing the dust from the smaller front mirror. You do want to be careful with the screen once you get it off of the set. Make sure to put it down carefully on edge and wear gloves during the entire proceedure. You do not want finger prints on the inside of the screen.

jnug:
How many hours wer on the lamp when you got the warning message?

I just recently got the same message and the orange lamp light. I bought my 62725 last Oct so I called Mits and they sent a new lamp out and I received it the next day. I'm not sure how many hours were on the lamp. Great support so far from Mits.

Can you check the hours on the previous lamp? My TV has been through several power outages, and the wrong button was hit on the remote, so the lamp hours got reset. So I have to add up the hours from the previous lamps. I think you check it by hitting "Menu-2-4-7-0".

He did clean the mirror as planed and sure enough the blotches disapeared. He also replaced the lamp. Once the set was up and running I was amazed at the improvement in picture. More telling than the lack of blotches was the degree to which the general level of dust had been impairing the quality of the picture accross the entire screen. What did he use to clean the mirror? Did he access the mirror from the front of the set where the bulb was replaced?

What did he use to clean the mirror? Did he access the mirror from the front of the set where the bulb was replaced?


The screen must be removed to access the mirrors. It isn't just a matter of taking the lower speaker grill.

Just wanted to provide some data that might help other Mits DLP owners.

A few weeks ago a message flashed across the bottom of the screen on my 52725 telling me that the lamp had gone over the usual hours that would dictate replacement. Since the unit was less than one year old I called Mits for warranty support.

They took my credit card number for the transaction. They sent out the replacement lamp with instructions to return the old lamp. The credit card number is taken just in case you do not return the old lamp.

I had also noticed during the last few months that a few blotches had become noticable. As has been reported on many occations, these are dust particles that have settled on the mirror that sits in from of he lamp as opposed to dust on the big rear mirror. I had not done anything about it when they first appeared as decided I would get as much done in one visit as possible. I wanted to be able to watch a repair guy pull the thing apart to get inside so that I could do these repairs myself next time around.

The repair guy arrived as planed and I watched him get into the set. He did clean the mirror as planed and sure enough the blotches disapeared. He also replaced the lamp. Once the set was up and running I was amazed at the improvement in picture. More telling than the lack of blotches was the degree to which the general level of dust had been impairing the quality of the picture accross the entire screen.

Once you have seen a repair proffessional pull the set apart I would recommend careful cleaning of the mirror on a regular basis. It is clearly essential to full enjoyment of the set. In addition I was surprised at how easy it was to get into the set. As long as you are careful you should have no difficulty getting to the mirror to perform the cleaning. You can carefully remove dust from the big mirror as well. However that will not be near as telling as removing the dust from the smaller front mirror. You do want to be careful with the screen once you get it off of the set. Make sure to put it down carefully on edge and wear gloves during the entire proceedure. You do not want finger prints on the inside of the screen.
Hi, I have a few smudges on my screen 52525 (noticeable when the background is white). when I called a few mits. authorized service, they all said that they would need to bring back in the shop to do anything and that could take 5-10 working days. One co. even mentioned that may be the whole DMD has to be replaced. Is this correct? I asked them why can't they clean it on site and they said the only thing they would do on site is replace the lamp. I live in Houston, but just wandering If you can give me the mits service phone number that you used so I can ask more details so I can get back to Mits / Mits service. I really don't want to go without my Mits for that long and not knowing exactly what they do.

Thanks for your help

I finally got around to cleaning my 52525's mirrors. I didn't use any cleaning solution, just a microfiber cleaning cloth. I did not clean the lens because I didn't have a lens cleaning brush. Oh man, I can't believe the difference. It is SO much brighter than it used to be. I'd say this is something to do 3 or 4 times a year.

I finally got around to cleaning my 52525's mirrors. I didn't use any cleaning solution, just a microfiber cleaning cloth. I did not clean the lens because I didn't have a lens cleaning brush. Oh man, I can't believe the difference. It is SO much brighter than it used to be. I'd say this is something to do 3 or 4 times a year.
Thus, the Mits service tech should be able to "clean" the smudges and mirrors on site, correct? Is is that difficult? What mirrors should I tell them to clean?

There are really only 2 mirrors to clean. The smaller of the two is the one that really matters. Take off the screen and they are both right there. It got rid of all of my smudges.

There are really only 2 mirrors to clean. The smaller of the two is the one that really matters. Take off the screen and they are both right there. It got rid of all of my smudges.
Shape, would you recommend that the cleaning of the mirrors be performed on a set like my year-old 52525 even though it doesn't appear to have any smudges? It's difficult to say if the overall brightness of my set has diminished because it would have happened over a long period of time. Did you notice a marked difference in the non-smudge areas of your screen?

Yes, the increase in brightness was remarkable! I didn't even think I had all that much dust on my mirrors. I pulled the screen off and was actually a bit disappointed since there wasn't much dust, and I didn't think I'd see much improvement.

Here are a couple of pictures that I took of the dust buildup on the smaller mirror in my TV if anyone is curious - I posted them before, but cant remember where.

I have bigger ones that show it better, but I don't think they will go through because of the size.

That is what mine looked like too, spiff.

One thing I noticed is that the foam that goes around the lens was not very well positioned at all. There was a huge gap to one side. But it was very difficult to move it back into place, so I left it.

I tried to upload bigger ones, but they aren't permitted.

I had the same issue with the foam block not being retained by its 2-sided tape. The second time that I took the screen off (a month or two ago - I had a spider on the inside of the screen), I ended up putting some black electrical tape over the gap to try and block airflow through there.

I never did find the spider, though.

I had a mosquito flying around inside mine one night. He found his way out pretty quickly, though. :)

I'm going to open the set once more this weekend when my dad is around with a good lens cleaning brush to clean the lens. At that point, I'll probably put some more foam around the lens. It ought to help with light leakage onto the screen, too, I would guess.

I have had my 52725 for almost a year now and within the last 6 weeks have started to notice something strange:

From time to time it is as if the screen tears down the middle (actually just off center to the left) and the two halves of video are not in sync. This usually only lasts for a split second or two but it is becoming more frequent. That is the simplest way I can explain it.

I searched this thread for words like rip and tear with no luck. I am wondering if any of you have experienced what I have with your xx725. Also, I have seen this from multiple video sources.

Thanks!


Hi gang, newbe to the forum.
I have a 62525 that is displaying the same issue as of late, and only seems to be when I am viewing an SD source...same as spiff72, I don't recall seeing it while watching a DVD or any other sources.
Just curious if there is any other info/feedback about this and if it is something that I should worry about.
Thanks! :)

I have seen the vertical tearing issue, too. I have been told it is called "macroblocking."

I have seen it once or twice on my S-video input (tivo). I have seen it a number of times on the antenna input, particularly during HD programming.

I have NEVER seen it on the VGA input. That is what I use for DVDs.

If the vertical tearing doesn't bother you, I wouldn't worry about it. I am thinking this is just a glitch in the digital processing, and getting a new TV or light engine probably wouldn't help.

Interesting, I've only seen this tearing (so far) while watching my TiVO (first generation, SAT-60) on one of S-video inputs.
Thanks guys, gives me something to tinker with :rolleyes:

I'm contemplating getting the 62725 -- but I'm having a hard time finding something to put it on that will:

a: hold a center channel 7 inches in height -- and hold it close to the bottom of the screen.

b: accomodate a receiver, DVD player and Motorola Cable box.

c: look nice ; )

I am really very disappointed with the picture that you get with a DVI to HDMI cable with this TV. It looks TERRIBLE compared to the VGA input. The HDMI colors look horribly muted and soft. The VGA input looks vibrant and sharp.

Considering the fact that HDCP is going to be a very important feature in the next couple years, I feel like I'm going to be giving up my PQ for these movie execs. :(

Has anyone managed to fix the muted color of the HDMI input?

Found this info from a calibrator of TVs over on www.hometheaterspot.com

"The Mits DLP's convert all HDMI signals to component video as soon as it enters the TV. This of course negates the benefit of digital HDMI since the HDMI instantly goes analog once the signal reaches the TV. The reason for this is likely a cost saving measure as all sources can then follow the same signal path."

Based on that, it might be better to use component cables to the cable box and the DVD player?

I'm contemplating getting the 62725 -- but I'm having a hard time finding something to put it on that will:

a: hold a center channel 7 inches in height -- and hold it close to the bottom of the screen.

b: accomodate a receiver, DVD player and Motorola Cable box.

c: look nice ; )i use a Bush VS 74377 it is a silver metal with glass shelves, the top shelf just fits the 62 inch mits dlp. then it has 2 lower shelves for components/speaker, the shelves are wide enough to hold a center speaker and 2 components on one shelf and 3 more components on the lower shelf. I got it at a best buy for about $270 with 10% discount.

i use a Bush VS 74377 it is a silver metal with glass shelves, the top shelf just fits the 62 inch mits dlp. then it has 2 lower shelves for components/speaker, the shelves are wide enough to hold a center speaker and 2 components on one shelf and 3 more components on the lower shelf. I got it at a best buy for about $270 with 10% discount.

I have that same stand, but I have the 62525 with the silver finish on the speaker grille.

The 1st shelf is about 6-3/4" to the underside of the top rail of the frame, but it may be possible to set the speaker down on the shelf from the top and then place the top shelf over it. (The glass is actually a good 2" or more above the underside of that rail)...

My setup isn't anything special, but here are a couple of pictures:

I'm contemplating getting the 62725 -- but I'm having a hard time finding something to put it on that will:

a: hold a center channel 7 inches in height -- and hold it close to the bottom of the screen.

b: accomodate a receiver, DVD player and Motorola Cable box.

c: look nice ; )

I have this one: Maxim Z-Line Stand. (http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Z-Line-Designs-55-TV-Stand-Z22-1S-/sem/rpsm/oid/93807/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do)

I really like it. The TV is about 3 inches wider than the stand, so it overhangs the ends by an inch and a half on each end. It doesn't look bad, to me anyway. I have an Onkyo AV Receiver, Xbox, Onkyo DVD Changer, Moto 6412 and 2 Replay TVs housed under there. Check it out!

-Randy

i use a Bush VS 74377 it is a silver metal with glass shelves, the top shelf just fits the 62 inch mits dlp. then it has 2 lower shelves for components/speaker, the shelves are wide enough to hold a center speaker and 2 components on one shelf and 3 more components on the lower shelf. I got it at a best buy for about $270 with 10% discount.

I looked at that via someone's link, and it appears to have a large frame around the front, so if you put a center channel on the top shelf, it looks like part of the frame would be blocking the top of the center channel.

While perhaps you could move the shelf lower, the center channel should be as close as possible to the bottom of the screen. After all, on the Mits, you have several inches of the front panel, before you even get to the screen.

I thought the design of this stand for putting a center channel near the screen looked bad.

Thoughts?

I have that same stand, but I have the 62525 with the silver finish on the speaker grille.

The 1st shelf is about 6-3/4" to the underside of the top rail of the frame, but it may be possible to set the speaker down on the shelf from the top and then place the top shelf over it. (The glass is actually a good 2" or more above the underside of that rail)...

My setup isn't anything special, but here are a couple of pictures:

That works fine for your size speakers. But I have book-shelf size speakers -- a center channel that is 6 3/4 inches tall. The metal frame looks like it will block the top of my speaker.

I have this one: Maxim Z-Line Stand. (http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Z-Line-Designs-55-TV-Stand-Z22-1S-/sem/rpsm/oid/93807/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do)

I really like it. The TV is about 3 inches wider than the stand, so it overhangs the ends by an inch and a half on each end. It doesn't look bad, to me anyway. I have an Onkyo AV Receiver, Xbox, Onkyo DVD Changer, Moto 6412 and 2 Replay TVs housed under there. Check it out!

-Randy


AAAAAAAAAArgh! When will these stand manufacturers realize that the center channel should be as close to the screen as possible? That stand won't due for sticking the dialogue right to the screen.

Tomorrow I have Tweeter coming over to clean the Smudges and the mirror of the WD52525. I hope that it will "brighten" up the pictures, especially for Analog channels.

What is the command to check the # hrs of the lamp?

also, I am kind hesitant to remove the front reflective screen of the 52525. My room is kind of bright but I thought the screen makes the pictures look "deeper" and "sharper".

all your input is greatly appreciated

the stand works ok for me with the center speaker on the top shelf even though it is not stuck to the bottom of the mits screen since my front surrounds are at least 3 feet to each side of the screen. it makes for a wide front sound stage where the center is definately the center.

there was mention much earler in this thread of a center speaker shelf that would fit on the top edge of the mits. that would be as close to the screen as you could get.
I prefer the lower placing as it keeps my center in line with my front surrounds, and the stand is very solid and holds 5 other peices besides the center channel speaker. Does not seem to block the speaker at all but that's just my preference/opinion.

I'm looking to replace my current Mits 55819 (a CRT model from a few years ago -- move it to another room actually), and buy a 62725 to be my primary display (the home theater display).

Has anyone done something similar and been satisfied?

Alot of people posting here look like they have not had any widescreen HDTV before.

I'm looking for opinions from people who have had existing Mits CRTs (widescreen/HDTV), and then went to a Mits DLP.

I'm concerned about losing picture quality (as some still consider CRTS the best quality -- particularly as against 720P DLPs).

Has anyone done this and noticed a significant change in quality on any inputs?

I just got my new Moxi DVR from Charter. I have component out on it, and the only available component inputs I had left on my 62725 were the DTV Input. I went into NetCommand, and setup the Moxi as type Other, and all works well save one thing: I can't program my Mits remote to control my Moxi. Is this a limitation of the DTV Input - you can't program NetCommand?

Justin

Based on that, it might be better to use component cables to the cable box and the DVD player?I tried both component and DVI/HDMI between my 62725 and Comcast cable box. The component setup was FAR superior. DVI/HDMI looked washed out.

I tried both component and DVI/HDMI between my 62725 and Comcast cable box. The component setup was FAR superior. DVI/HDMI looked washed out.

That seems to be the general consensus as time goes by. My Dish 811 looks washed out with a DVI/HDMI cable. I thought it was just the Dish receiver, but I don't think this is the case anymore.

I'm looking to replace my current Mits 55819 (a CRT model from a few years ago -- move it to another room actually), and buy a 62725 to be my primary display (the home theater display).

Has anyone done something similar and been satisfied?

Alot of people posting here look like they have not had any widescreen HDTV before.

I'm looking for opinions from people who have had existing Mits CRTs (widescreen/HDTV), and then went to a Mits DLP.

I'm concerned about losing picture quality (as some still consider CRTS the best quality -- particularly as against 720P DLPs).

Has anyone done this and noticed a significant change in quality on any inputs?
I went from a 4 year old Pioneer 52" Hdtv (not Elite) to a 62525. I feel the picture on the Mitsu is much sharper and brighter. I do see occasional rainbows but that is a small price to pay for such a great tv. Get the Mitsu DLP!!!

I'm looking to replace my current Mits 55819 (a CRT model from a few years ago -- move it to another room actually), and buy a 62725 to be my primary display (the home theater display).

Has anyone done something similar and been satisfied?

Alot of people posting here look like they have not had any widescreen HDTV before.

I'm looking for opinions from people who have had existing Mits CRTs (widescreen/HDTV), and then went to a Mits DLP.

I'm concerned about losing picture quality (as some still consider CRTS the best quality -- particularly as against 720P DLPs).

Has anyone done this and noticed a significant change in quality on any inputs? have you considered the new 1080p dlp from mits that are coming out now?

not quite what you wanted in your post about opinions, but i went from a mits 35 inch crt that i loved (still do changed it to the bedroom and works great) to the 62725. i would have went hdtv years ago but there just wasn't enough true HD content on sat or local ota to do it. so i waited, now glad I got the 62 dlp from mits, and still wating for more HD content to really show it off.

have you considered the new 1080p dlp from mits that are coming out now?

not quite what you wanted in your post about opinions, but i went from a mits 35 inch crt that i loved (still do changed it to the bedroom and works great) to the 62725. i would have went hdtv years ago but there just wasn't enough true HD content on sat or local ota to do it. so i waited, now glad I got the 62 dlp from mits, and still wating for more HD content to really show it off.

I thought about them, but the lowest priced Mits 1080p model is close to $3,900.00. About $900.00 more than the 62725.

Not sure we want to go that high for the new models, particularly since that doesn't take into account a costly stand (which wasn't an issue with my Mits CRT -- since all my components fit on top of the CRT).

Can someone link me to some help with removing the anti glare screen? I know someone posted the info a couple of times on the forum but I can't for the life of me find it. I tried using a credit card like the manual said but the card just seemed to bend and the screen didn't snap out. How many places do you need to loosen the screen before you can take it out? The last thing I want to do is damage the darn thing. I just want to see what the picture looks like with the thing off as I do get some glare in the afternoon. I didn't really pay any attention but now that football season is here I find myself watching much more tv at that time of day.

There are 3 screen holders on each side. In the center on the side of the diamond shield use a credit card or other flat plastic device (like a putty knife) and push in hard, then bend inward(or use your fingers to pull out).

Once the center is loose, then do the same with the bottom and then do the other side. There shouldnt be much chance of you damaging the diamond shield.

The key is unlocking that center holder. good luck

There are 3 screen holders on each side. In the center on the side of the diamond shield use a credit card or other flat plastic device (like a putty knife) and push in hard, then bend inward(or use your fingers to pull out).

Once the center is loose, then do the same with the bottom and then do the other side. There shouldnt be much chance of you damaging the diamond shield.

The key is unlocking that center holder. good luck

I seem to remember when I took mine off, I used a credit card, inserted it, and then bent OUTWARD at each clip. The pried the clips open and popped the screen out at each location.

I've had my TV since around July. Yesterday when I came home the red light was flashing (TV was turned off before I left) so I had to hit the reset button to turn it back on. TV worked fine. When I got home today the light was flashing again, so I reset again. When the TV came back on I got the following message:

TV will shut down in a few seconds. Please check if the air flow is blocked.

There is plenty of space on all sides of the TV so there is nothing on the outside that is physically blocking air flow.

The past month or so the fans seem to have gotten much louder and there has been a very audible clicking sound coming from the TV. The clicks have a very regular pattern, two quick clicks every few minutes. Sounds like the clicks are coming from the fans, and that would make sense because there are no other moving parts that I know of. But if the fans were making the noises I would think they would be more random.

So... Any idea why I'm getting the error message about air flow?

Any idea what is causing the clicking sounds?

Any idea if the clicking and the error message are related?

Thanks!

I've had my TV since around July. Yesterday when I came home the red light was flashing (TV was turned off before I left) so I had to hit the reset button to turn it back on. TV worked fine. When I got home today the light was flashing again, so I reset again. When the TV came back on I got the following message:

TV will shut down in a few seconds. Please check if the air flow is blocked.

There is plenty of space on all sides of the TV so there is nothing on the outside that is physically blocking air flow.

The past month or so the fans seem to have gotten much louder and there has been a very audible clicking sound coming from the TV. The clicks have a very regular pattern, two quick clicks every few minutes. Sounds like the clicks are coming from the fans, and that would make sense because there are no other moving parts that I know of. But if the fans were making the noises I would think they would be more random.

So... Any idea why I'm getting the error message about air flow?

Any idea what is causing the clicking sounds?

Any idea if the clicking and the error message are related?

Thanks!

You might check the air filter on the left rear side panel (your left side as you face the front of the TV). Just power down the TV and I think there is just a philips head screw on the grill cover.

EDIT: Unless you are in a very dusty environment, I doubt that this would be clogged after just 2-3 months.

Other than that, not sure what would be clicking. There is actually a rotating color wheel (another moving part besides the fans), but I don't think this would be it.

As noted by Spiff72, it's either the filters are blocked or, more likely (given the short time period the TV has been working) a fan is malfunctioning. Either way, the error message is probably related to overheating. The clicking could be a thermal switch connected to the fans trying to increase air flow due to overheating (it could also be that the temp sensor is broken and is giving false readings). In any case, I would get the unit serviced immediately if cleaning the filter doesn't resolve the problem.

Spiff72 - I already checked the air filter (even though I was sure this could not be the problem). It looked like new so I just popped it back in. And of course there is a moving color wheel -- brain only runs 50% on the weekends :-)

Pine2 - I don't think my problems are related to overheating. The TV has an error mode (steady yellow light) that is triggered by too high an operating temperature. Wouldn't I get the steady yellow if my unit was overheating?

In any case, this looks like a problem that requres a house call. I'm going to try to get a service tech out here ASAP.

Still interested in hearing theories as to what might be causing this, maybe it is something I can easily fix. Has anyone here ever experienced the loud clicking or the air flow error message? What cuased it? What fixed it?

I'm looking to replace my current Mits 55819 (a CRT model from a few years ago -- move it to another room actually), and buy a 62725 to be my primary display (the home theater display).

Has anyone done something similar and been satisfied?

Alot of people posting here look like they have not had any widescreen HDTV before.

I'm looking for opinions from people who have had existing Mits CRTs (widescreen/HDTV), and then went to a Mits DLP.

I'm concerned about losing picture quality (as some still consider CRTS the best quality -- particularly as against 720P DLPs).

Has anyone done this and noticed a significant change in quality on any inputs?

I had a Mits CRT (VS-50800) and I've gone up to a Mits 62725. I'm glad I took the plunge! The pic is a vast improvement. Of course, my CRT was back in 1999, but this DLP is really great.

It took me a while to find a suitable stand and ended up going with BDI Vector 9527. The black trim matched my Atlantic Technology speakers perfectly and accomadated my Denon AVR 5600, a DVD player, and the TWC box. I had to resort to mounting my center channel speaker above the TV using Closet Mate storage racks/brackets from Home Depot. Worked out really well, as I didn't like the way it sounded with the speaker in the stand. I'll have to get around to posting a pic.

Can anyone tell me what the latest firmware update is? And also... has anyone had a Diamond series update applied to their 725 series so that the guide actually works?

Can anyone tell me what the latest firmware update is? And also... has anyone had a Diamond series update applied to their 725 series so that the guide actually works?
4.05 is the latest and I'm pretty sure Mits abanded the TVGOS for the xx725 series.

That seems to be the general consensus as time goes by. My Dish 811 looks washed out with a DVI/HDMI cable. I thought it was just the Dish receiver, but I don't think this is the case anymore.

Well, I had to see for myself now that Adelphia activated the DVI port on their HD box, so I bought a DVI/HDMI cable and hooked it up to my 62725 last night. Yes, the colors and bright/dark were washed out, no matter now much tweaking I did. I didn't tweak it long enough to really determine if the colors were more lifelike, but the poor bright/darkness levels did it for me, and I have switched back to component.

I did do a lot of A/B comparison for detail of HD channels with HDMI and component. Interestingly, the component connection had a clear advantage there too. I noticed it most on shots of people's hair. With HDMI, far fewer individual strands were discernable, and the hair smeared together more than with component. With shots of snow, the HDMI looked like a white blob compared with component, although the poor bright/dark performace probably exacerbated the difference there. Kind of a bummer, but at least I don't have to worry about upgrading my receiver to one that does HDMI switching. . .

Do you guys think that it might just be that the Mits does a poor job with the digital to analog conversion, and then the source is then bad for when they convert it back to digital? I haven't tried HDMI and have been happy with component, but that is kind of disappointing. I liked thinking I still had that option, anyway....well, there are worse problems to have, I suppose....

Randy

Do you guys think that it might just be that the Mits does a poor job with the digital to analog conversion, and then the source is then bad for when they convert it back to digital? I haven't tried HDMI and have been happy with component, but that is kind of disappointing. I liked thinking I still had that option, anyway....well, there are worse problems to have, I suppose....

Randy

Anytime that there is an A/D and a D/A conversion, you will lose quality. I think this would help explain the decrease in detail that 2left mentioned. I don't know what source of the color changes and washed out appearance are, but I suspect that they are related to the unnecessary A/D and D/A conversions.

The screen must be removed to access the mirrors. It isn't just a matter of taking the lower speaker grill.
Spiff72 and Shape,

Tweeter came out and cleaned the 2 mirrors and the lense, which removed all the smudges and definitely make the picture brighter and sharper too. Like you guys said, there was literally a layer of dust on the little mirror and the lense too. the Tweeter guy said that all owners should call service to have these mirrors cleaned 1-2 months after purchasing the TV, since these dust is likely from the production. They made it look so easily, but for a novice like me, I'm afraid that I would mess it up. Oh well I'll call them in once a year to clean it up which is part of the extended warranty.

I also glad that Tweeter cleaned on site not like other Mits Service who all said that they would need to bring back to the shop and one guy even said there could be a problem with DMD...only samsung has DMD, ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.

Thanks Guys

Spiff72 and Shape,

I also glad that Tweeter cleaned on site not like other Mits Service who all said that they would need to bring back to the shop and one guy even said there could be a problem with DMD...only samsung has DMD, ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.

Thanks Guys

Actually, there is a DMD on every DLP television. It stands for Digital Micromirror Device - it is essentially the integrated circuit package that actually creates the images.

If you haven't done so already, check out: www.dlp.com There are very informative demos there...

The DMD is really fascinating technology.

But back to the point, taking off the screen and cleaning the mirrors isn't likely to do anything to the DMD - it is buried within the light engine.

This question goes out to everyone with the xx725 sets and a cable box with both hdmi or component outputs. Which one are you using to hook up your TV? I just automatically used the digital outputs figuring it was better but now I am seeing people saying component actually looks better. Is there a concensus or this this like so many things in the TV world these days where it depends on your particular setup. For the record I have the Motorola 6412 which raises another question I want to ask. For people using this box are both outputs live at the same time? Can I hook up both HDMI and component outputs at the same time and do an A/B comparison using different inputs on the TV? Once again any help is appreciated.

Hooking up via component looks better than HDMI or DVI on my 52725.

And RGB looks better than all of the other inputs. Maybe firewire looks better, but I've never seen it. :)

With the RGB input, there is a video setting called "Fine Detail" that I never understood until last night. Basically, if you are having trouble getting a 1:1 pixel mapping with your video mode, just adjust the fine detail slider until the jittering pixels go away.

I added a Mitsubishi HD2000U DVHS via the TV's rear firewire connection. Everything appears to be functioning correctly, except each time I switch to another device, all my custom video settings are lost and revert to the defaults. All the custom settings for the other devices retain their values. Is this normal?

I added a Mitsubishi HD2000U DVHS via the TV's rear firewire connection. Everything appears to be functioning correctly, except each time I switch to another device, all my custom video settings are lost and revert to the defaults. All the custom settings for the other devices retain their values. Is this normal?

I had the same problem with an earlier version of software. With the current ver .05 I don't have this problem.

This question goes out to everyone with the xx725 sets and a cable box with both hdmi or component outputs. Which one are you using to hook up your TV? I tried both and the component hookup looked MUCH better on my 62725. The HDMI looked washed out.

This question goes out to everyone with the xx725 sets and a cable box with both hdmi or component outputs. Which one are you using to hook up your TV? ....

I have a Dishnetwork 942 and the DHMI looks washed out compared to the component. I'm begining to think this is a problem w/ the Mits xx725.

I have a Dishnetwork 942 and the DHMI looks washed out compared to the component. I'm begining to think this is a problem w/ the Mits xx725.

I have a 62525 that had a washed out look on HDMI compared to component inputs on both a VOOM satellite receiver and a JVC DH5H DVHS tape deck. Recently I purchased a Panasonic S77 DVD player with HDMI and the picture looks great with HDMI 480P, better than the component input at 480P.

I have the Dish 942 and I use the HDMI inputs.. color looks great.. even before I had it ISF calibrated. Can't say I ever tried hooking up the components from the 942, though.

Sounds like I will definitely give the component cables a try this weekend. Thanks for the responses. I will let you know how it works out on my TV.