I have used the HR10 -250 hooked up via HDMI since the beginning. I have been very satisfied with the colors.....but now my curiosity is peaked, I may do a A/B comparison to see if there really is a difference.

I have the WD 52725 set. Currently I am using component for both my DVD2900 dvd player and my Dish box. I have never really tried to use the HDMI input because I am satisfied with the component on the dish box.
With upcoming HD DVD however, this will change.
Has anyone received an explanation regarding why people are reporting a washed out appearance when using the HDMI input? Is this something that should be serviced?
Has everyone that tried the HDMI input had these washed out images or is it on a few sets only?

Thanks

Quick Q for anyone who has calibrated using Avia and the Mits' 6 PerfectColor bars.

Since Avia only has Red, Green and Blue filters, how do you figure out settings for the magenta, yellow and cyan levels? This is what I found in another forum discussing use of DVE with a Panasonic:

Blue only: Blue in blue, magenta, cyan and white should be equal.
Red only: Red in red, magenta, yellow and white should be equal.
Green only: Green in green, cyan, yellow and white should be equal

I'm not sure exactly what all that means, and whether it applies to my situation.

This question goes out to everyone with the xx725 sets and a cable box with both hdmi or component outputs. Which one are you using to hook up your TV?

Directv DTC-210 HD receiver to WD62525. Component is better than DVI/HDMI for me.

Quick Q for anyone who has calibrated using Avia and the Mits' 6 PerfectColor bars.

Since Avia only has Red, Green and Blue filters, how do you figure out settings for the magenta, yellow and cyan levels? This is what I found in another forum discussing use of DVE with a Panasonic:

Blue only: Blue in blue, magenta, cyan and white should be equal.
Red only: Red in red, magenta, yellow and white should be equal.
Green only: Green in green, cyan, yellow and white should be equal

I'm not sure exactly what all that means, and whether it applies to my situation.

What I did is set the the red/magenta, green/yellow, and blue/cyan pairs to be equal to the color of the white bar as best as I could when viewed through the red, green, and blue filters respectively.

All this was done with color and tint at 31.

Quick Question:

How do you calibrate the colors for your cable box??

I know you can use DVE/AVIA to calibrate your DVD player device and your XBOX device and other dvd play type things, but how do you calibrate the color setting for your CABLE?? You can't put a DVE/AVIA dvd into the cable box so how do you get the colors right on it??

Do you guys just use your DVD player color settings for your cable as well??

Dang. Sometimes I can be so stupid. I have had the 52725 for about six months now and just today tried hooking up my motorlola 6412 through the component connection. A direct comparison between the two revealed the component connection to have a much better brightness, color saturation and overall clarity over the hdmi connection. I can't say it will be true for everyone but you owe it to yourself to at least give the component connection a try if you haven't. Six months. And it took me all of about five minutes to hook up. Sheesh. Live and learn. Hopefully.

Can anyone answer my question from above??

Thanks!

If you get HDNet via your cable system, I think that they run test patterns on Tuesday mornings around 9:00 am. If you have cable DVR that records HD, you could record this test pattern and use it for some calibration. I don't know if they have good color patterns though.

If you get HDNet via your cable system, I think that they run test patterns on Tuesday mornings around 9:00 am. If you have cable DVR that records HD, you could record this test pattern and use it for some calibration. I don't know if they have good color patterns though.

Is it better to use the station test pattern than the PerfectColor pattern? Last night PBS-HD had a test pattern on at around 1 a.m., and I noticed it was very different from the PerfectColor bars that I superimposed on the same screen. When I watch tv, it seems that every station's color palette is a bit different. I'm still trying to figure out what to do, myself.

Quick Question:

How do you calibrate the colors for your cable box??

I know you can use DVE/AVIA to calibrate your DVD player device and your XBOX device and other dvd play type things, but how do you calibrate the color setting for your CABLE?? You can't put a DVE/AVIA dvd into the cable box so how do you get the colors right on it??

Do you guys just use your DVD player color settings for your cable as well??

HDNet will broadcase a test pattern on Tuesday morning at 06:00 Eastern http://www.hd.net/schedule_sevenday.html . If you can record this or any other test pattern, use that as a starting point.

I have a WD52725 that I bought in Feb 2005. All of a sudden this morning something is going on with the picture. I is very "jerky" & it has an intermittent GREEN cast and sometimes the entire screen goes green. It is doing the same thing through every input : Component, HDMI, Ant1 , Ant2. There is nothing wrong with the signals going to the TV - I have tested everything with another TV. Anyone know whats going on? DO I need a service call? Bad Light Engine?? Thanks!!!!

I have a WD52725 that I bought in Feb 2005. All of a sudden this morning something is going on... DO I need a service call? Bad Light Engine?? Thanks!!!! I'd say yes

I am considering purchase of WD 52725 . I have read reports of noticable fan noise on these sets on other forums . Seating distance 6 to 8 feet .Comments from users of this set will be appreciated.

with normal audio volume you will not notice any fan noise.

if you have nothing else on, no noise in the room, muted audio then yes, you might hear some fan noise.
6 feet would be too close i would think to watch properly. but mine is a 62".

Hooking up via component looks better than HDMI or DVI on my 52725.


Hmm interesting comment. For the sake of discussion, if you have a digital source, ie. HD Tivo or standalone HD tuner, it would stand to reason that you should get a better pic via HDMI or DVI simple because there's no need for an analog to digital conversion like there is with compenent. It's straight digital end to end.

Wouldn't you say that's a true statement?

Hmm interesting comment. For the sake of discussion, if you have a digital source, ie. HD Tivo or standalone HD tuner, it would stand to reason that you should get a better pic via HDMI or DVI simple because there's no need for an analog to digital conversion like there is with compenent. It's straight digital end to end.

Wouldn't you say that's a true statement?

I agree with your statement, and this is one benefit of using an HDMI connection...

However, it has been pretty widely stated that the Mits DLPs (at least the X2X25 series) immediately convert the HDMI input into analog component video. This was based on some schematics from the service manuals that were posted in this thread (or the original Mits DLP thread).

I agree that component looks better than HDMI on my TV as well (feeding HDMI with the DVI out from my Dish 811 receiver) along with component out from that same receiver.

I am considering purchase of WD 52725 . I have read reports of noticable fan noise on these sets on other forums . Seating distance 6 to 8 feet .Comments from users of this set will be appreciated.

Fan noise is greatly reduced if you have the set in an entertainment center or just "in space" and not, for example, in the corner of the room.

I agree with the other poster - 6' is a bit close for this (or any other large) set esp. if looking at a 62" set. On the up side, the DLP will do better than LCD will at the same distance. If you're happy with the looks at 6' in the store then go for it I suppose.

I agree with your statement, and this is one benefit of using an HDMI connection...

However, it has been pretty widely stated that the Mits DLPs (at least the X2X25 series) immediately convert the HDMI input into analog component video. This was based on some schematics from the service manuals that were posted in this thread (or the original Mits DLP thread).

I agree that component looks better than HDMI on my TV as well (feeding HDMI with the DVI out from my Dish 811 receiver) along with component out from that same receiver.

While I have not done a thorough comparison I'll say that the PQ via component with my S97 DVD player is at least comparable to the S97 via HDMI. On the Secrets shootout the S97 scores much higher via HDMI than component but I have not seen this after casual observation on this set.

The screen must be removed to access the mirrors. It isn't just a matter of taking the lower speaker grill.


Just a little FYI: A can of compressed air is great for the occaisional cleaning of the smaller mirror...you can take the speaker grill off and aim the air at the mirror through the gaps in the area near the knob adjustments for tilt...it won't do as thorough a job as removing the screen and removing the dust directly, and if you have a lot of dust you'll have to take the screen off...but for the more frequent clearing of the occaisional dust bunny on the front mirror, it's easy and improves the picture greatly, and saves the more complex proceedures for, say, every six months or so (of course, this depends on the cleanliness of the environment the tv is in).

I need to make a quick decision on this set. A lot of you have posted about poorer PQ using HDMI input compared with component inputs. I am concerned about potential problem with hi def DVD (HD DVD/BD, which ever wins the format war) since it's likely with these players, you can only get best PQ through HDMI, they likely will downgrade signal through component inputs. Any thoughts on this ? Thanks.

"It sucks?" :) I'm really hoping that the whole HDCP bites these companies (including Microsoft) in the ass and the whole world won't have to upgrade their PC displays and throw millions of perfectly good monitors into landfills come 2007.

Hopefully the environmental aspects of this will haunt these companies.

Yeah, it does suck. I will buy which ever format which maintains analog output singnal and allows copying to a PC, if neither does that, I will not buy either.

The reason I need to make a quick decision is I found Fry's has an excellent deal on 62725, good until Tuesday, 10/25. I know I am not supposed to post the price, if you are near a Fry's, just call them to find out.

Does anyone know the final lens diameter of the light engine in the XX725? I'm thinking about adding a ND filter, and if it is a "regular" size I could use a glass-optical one instead of making my own out of Kodak gel.

Or does anyone know of an ISF tech who's serviced one of these and might know?

Thanks!

-John

I have meant to pursue getting my mirrors dusted for a while, and finally called Mits about it. They said cleaning the mirror was covered under warranty (nice surprise), but I had already owned my set for a year (damn procrastination!). Luckily, my extended warranty from GoodGuys covers annual cleaning, so I set up a service appointment.

The mirror was pretty much completely covered with dust, although the tech said he'd seen much worse. It took him three tries, each time testing with a white screen from Avia, but he finally got all the dust and smudges off. I also had him cut pieces of foam and stick them around the opening where the light engine comes through from the back compartment. The amazingly cheap original foam lining with double stick tape had all but fallen off. The tech said he'd serviced at least 50 Mits, and never seen one intact. Another kind poster noted the foam prevents dust from coming in from the back, and might prevent light leakage to increase black levels.

Three words describe the effect of this cleaning: NIGHT AND DAY! Mits could have spent hundreds more on engineering the light engine, but it would not have made the same difference this essentially no-cost service did. The set is noticeably brighter, and the blacks seem richer. I previously thought my PBS-HD was just a strange, grayish feed from the cable company, but the overall dinginess and darkness is now gone. In one scene from "American Chopper" where they are welding their bikes, the image acually made me squint with my current settings. The picture is also noticeably sharper - no surprise since millions of minute dust particles are no longer diffracting the light.

I heartiliy recommend cleaning your mirrors asap.

I have meant to pursue getting my mirrors dusted for a while, and finally called Mits about it. They said cleaning the mirror was covered under warranty (nice surprise), but I had already owned my set for a year (damn procrastination!). Luckily, my extended warranty from GoodGuys covers annual cleaning, so I set up a service appointment.

ARRGGGHHH!!!! I wish I had known that was a warranty item. I just checked and I bought mine on 9/4 of last year. Missed it by *that* much. :( I think the Ultimate Electronics extended warranty only provides for one 'tune-up' visit over the course of the extended warranty. I guess I'll have to find the docs since they no longer operate here in Texas. Ugh. Would you guys suggest going ahead and getting this done, burning that service, so I could watch and learn how to do it myself, or waiting until I'm a little deeper into the warranty period? Of course, since UE isn't here anymore I don't suppose I have any motivation to try and get half my $$$ back by not using the warranty outside of that one visit. Hmmmm...but I digress. People have outlined the steps to clean the mirrors here very clearly, but there is nothing quite like seeing it done. And I could maybe go the compressed air route that was described here in the meantime. Decisions, decisions....

Thanks!
Randy

yup, no matter the great engineering, the cheap foam/tape seal and a dusty mirror will screw that up every time.

Hey 2left, did you take some picts of the dirty mirror or how it looked onscreen?

yup, no matter the great engineering, the cheap foam/tape seal and a dusty mirror will screw that up every time.

Hey 2left, did you take some picts of the dirty mirror or how it looked onscreen?

Didn't take pics of the mirror, as there are already a bunch on this thread. Wish I took a picture of the screen before and after, but I really didn't expect the difference to be so noticeable. The dust just makes a white screen darker, with what look like random grayish smudges a few inches wide or less. When the tech first "cleaned" the mirror and accidentally brushed the mirror with his hand, the effect was orange blotches on the screen (I guess from the oil?).

If it weren't for this forum, I would have thought the gray smudges were just somehow inherent in the display. The Mits is definitely capable of displaying a bright, uniform white screen with a simply cleaning of the mirror.

Numerous posts complaining about washed-out HDMI on x25 series TV's, what about the new 1080p x27 series? I have a Moxi box w/ HDMI and quality looks great to me... but now I'm tempted to climb back there and try component based on these reports...

Numerous posts complaining about washed-out HDMI on x25 series TV's, what about the new 1080p x27 series? I have a Moxi box w/ HDMI and quality looks great to me... but now I'm tempted to climb back there and try component based on these reports...
best asked answered in the mits 1080P thread. my hdmi and component look fine on my mits 62725. although the settings are a little different on each.

Hey all, I have owned my 52725 for a month now and love it. I am currently trying to set up my surround system and need help with where to put the center channel. Has anyone had success finding a speaker shelf that attaches to the top of the tv? I was told by some best buy guys that the shelves they sell fit all tv's except the Mits. I cant fit it under or in my stand so I either have to mount it on top of the tv or build a shelf and attach it to the wall. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Jim

There have been a few people that have built their own shelves for their Mitsus. The key is to make sure that you don't put a lot of pressure on that downward sloping back wall of the set, as it supports the big mirror. Some have speculated that too much weight could distort the picture.

I would try doing a search on "shelf" in this thread (or possibly in the older XX525 thread)... I remember seeing some photos posted by some who did make their own speakers.

Thx Spiff i'll check it out

There have been a few people that have built their own shelves for their Mitsus. The key is to make sure that you don't put a lot of pressure on that downward sloping back wall of the set, as it supports the big mirror. Some have speculated that too much weight could distort the picture.

I would try doing a search on "shelf" in this thread (or possibly in the older XX525 thread)... I remember seeing some photos posted by some who did make their own speakers.

I'm one of those who built his own shelf. I made mine out of the styrofoam that is packed with the tv. No problems at all after a year. My center channel is not the heaviest, though. If you do this, you MUST use the industrial strength velcro.

Picture of Center Channel (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4474512&&#post4474512)

I was thinking about a styrofoam shelf too!!! Great pics. I picked up the omnimount shelf and will see how that works out.

I've had this 62525 since 3/05. At the time I had VOOM [sigh] and never noticed wash out. So after I went with Dish 811. I noticed that Hi-Def ,esp. off ant. thru the 811 was not as vivid so I would switch over to ant. in for NASCAR on FOX . With pic in pic I could really see the difference. I figured the DISH box just did a lousy job. Dish sent another box and same old wash out. Changed out HDMI cable [ what a POS that is, practically have to tape it in place] Called Mits for that and for Occ. turning off by it self. Send me flash card upgrade .05. Shut off stopped for about 2mo. and HDMI wash out still there.

Went thru previous Threads here and I see this is not unusual but I have not seen a fix. So called MITS CSR and described problem. I might just as well have called my local pub. Never heard of it. But did say that green in the black on SD was probably an engine failing and should have a service call. And that the washout might be related. Explained that I've seen complaints about this going back at least 6 MO. or better here at AVS and HTSPot. Again, DUH.

He gave me headquater next level phone #. Called them. HDMI washout? Never heard of it. BUT said GREEN normal problem with NO fix avail.

We also discussed the chance of them sending me a anti-glare screen for free because it was their screw up to put a rear view mirror on a expensive TV. [ I already bought the trim kit 6 mo. ago SHHHH ] I was told by a CSR back when I got the firm ware upgrade that they cost $402 and that recal. is nec. [even though there are not many service menu cal adj.on these]. This yahoo tells me the won't fit [Bull Dicky] and they rattle. HUH? And Mits policy is you own what you bought, end of story.

I will be calling for service at least to get the mirrors cleaned and watch how. I already know how to get there but I want to see this first hand.

SO my question is has anybody figured out the hdmi problem. I know I could go to component in which I just might do and frame my 2 DVI /HDMI cables along with the HDMI/DVI adapter.{that was a real joke trying to keep that in place}
I suggested the High level CSR log on to AVS to get a feel for the problem but I got the feeling he would rather a root canal.

Even with all the little idio's I still like this better than the SAMMY DLPs [3] i had.

HDMI Washed Out...

My solution was to switch to component. It provided a dramatic increase in PQ and the only drawback was having the run two extra wires.

Personnally I don't understand the love affair with HDMI connections. Granted my only experience is the Mits 62725 and a Dish 942, but the bopttom line is that combination over HDMI isn't worth anything.

Unfortunately, HDMI will be required for HDDVD or BluRay. :(

TNX! Yea I know about the component alternative fix. The "love affair" is non existent here.
But however "THEY" [who ever "they" are] keep telling us HDMI is the best connection. Digital to digital yadee yadaa.

My hope with this post was that someone out there in MIT'sy land had this prolem fixed and how, so that when I get service out I can point them in a direction.
Cause as I said, Official Level 2 Mits CSR found nothing in his data bank about any complaint on this subject, which I find incredible to say the least considering all the posts i have seen here and other forums on this.

Your 725 is just a more expensive version of my 525 cause they put the super-dooper antiglare screen and the cloth grill cover on it. Thats the only diff. I probably would have opted for the 725 had i known that mine came with a optional rear view mirror. And also I was exchanging out a Sammy so I was kind of locked in at a price level, sort of, and when I settled on this there really wasn't much review out there yet on these models. And besides I,ve been known to be frugal {cheap}and this not the first time that trait has bit me in the wazoo.
The upgrade [ $402 is still cheaper than paying for the 62725 at the store, and I just may do that yet but the first Mits CSR I spoke with, whom seemed very knowledgable about this said that a Recalibration was "highly recommended as the screen would "impact" [god I hate that word] gray scales and pic Q. This may be true or not. My experiece tells me you may have made the better choice.

SOOOO, if any one out there has more experiace [like hardcore tweakers or calibrators or accidental fixers] your words of wisdom would be highly regarded.

Again TNX; FRANK the Bear Paws

JOSH
Got a "94" S10 w/TPI 350. GO for a pink? It eats Puffed Rice for a snack. Figured I would rattle your door with my open side pipes.

Seriously! That is the problem with poor Q HDMI . I had been considering a upscaler DVD to replace my 480p player. But until this gets resolved I don't see much point.

TNX; FRANK the BEAR Paws

JOSH
Got a "94" S10 w/TPI 350. GO for a pink? It eats Puffed Rice for a snack. Figured I would rattle your door with my open side pipes.


Sure, let's go! ;)

Sounds nice! What's it run? Have any pictures?

Sounds like we both have two very expensive hobbies. ;)

Regarding washed out pictures over HDMI, I had the same problem with my Comcast cable box, but I've tried the Sony 975, Panasonic S97, Sony 70 and Pioneer 59AVi DVD players with HDMI and all looked correct as far as color, black level, etc. Why is that? Is this really a problem with the TV or could it be the cable box? And will this washed-out look occur when connecting a BluRay player to the TV with HDMI?

Sure, let's go! ;)

Sounds nice! What's it run? Have any pictures?

Sounds like we both have two very expensive hobbies. ;)

no pics never ran it but it will pucker ones butt.
Its a never ending project. $$$ always a dilema along with WAF . Some day.

So any insite to the HDMI prolem??? {got to keep this Thread on track, we don't want the MOD to think we are runnig a illegal raceing forum here.}

TNX:Frank.

no pics never ran it but it will pucker ones butt.
Its a never ending project. $$$ always a dilema along with WAF . Some day.

So any insite to the HDMI prolem??? {got to keep this Thread on track, we don't want the MOD to think we are runnig a illegal raceing forum here.}

TNX:Frank.

No real insight since I have never tried the HDMI (due in no small part to the comments posted here), but I think the general theory is that since it seems that the Mits converts the digital signal to analog internally, then back to digital, it doesn't do a great job with the D to A conversion. I don't think anyone has much luck pinning it down further than general theorizing, though....

-Randy

Yea the problem is I really never noticed this with VOOM [sigh]. Now that doesn't mean it was not there. I have no other DVI/HDMI capable thing I can hang on it to see if there is a diff. I have a old SAM set top but that has componant out, of course that looks Grrreat.

Hey!!! I just had a epithany. The voom [sigh] boxs I still have will still work OTA with DVI out. Got to try this.What a pain.Pull everything out rewire wa wa wa .

TNX; FRANK

Interesting that some devices show the washed out issue while others do not. I only ever tried HDMI using my computer as the output. I don't have any other DVI or HDMI output devices.

I wonder if it could be a color space issue or something I could correct using gamma or brightness on my computer. I'll admit that I didn't mess with it much before I returned the $100 HDMI cable to Best Buy.

We may find that it has more to do with the scaler chip set in the receiver or device. The VOOM [sigh] box used Forqedo?? {can't spell for crap} as the Dish may use a lesser evil chip set as some other devices do. I have no idea what MITS uses for a scaler chip .

Frank

. . . So any insite to the HDMI prolem??? {got to keep this Thread on track, we don't want the MOD to think we are runnig a illegal raceing forum here.}

TNX:Frank.

I still run both component and HDMI from my MOXI cable box from Adelphia, though I never use the HDMI (but what else would I do with the DVI/HDMI cable?). Completely recalibrating really helps the HDMI signal. Brightness is way down around 22, and Contrast is in the upper 50s, PerfectColor settings completely different, and Sharpness set way up. With all those changes, darkness is at acceptable levels and color is good. The problem with loss of detail and soft picture remains, although on the plus side there seems to be less noise on detailed surfaces like football fields and tiled rooftops.

Gives me hope that I'll be able to get an acceptable picture from HDMI when BlueRay or HD-DVD comes around. Although I wonder if the compromised picture will be better than a good 480p signal upconverted to 720p by the Mits . . .

2left:
Would you share your HDMI perfect color settings with us?
My HDMI cable has been retired to the extra cable draw but I might be stupid enoungh one day to give it yet another try. Actually, just curious to see how close they are to what I tried.

2left:
Would you share your HDMI perfect color settings with us?
My HDMI cable has been retired to the extra cable draw but I might be stupid enoungh one day to give it yet another try. Actually, just curious to see how close they are to what I tried.

Here are my cablebox settings for hdmi and component:

HDMI/Component

Magenta 54/51
Red 57/33
Yellow 45/39
Green 32/29
Cyan 31/29
Blue 63/31
Sharpness 29/15
Temp Low/low
Tnt 32/32
Color 31/31
Bright 26/44
Contrast 60/48
Definedge - off
Noise Reduction - standard

Giving hdmi a second chance, it looks pretty good. First time I used it, I didn't expect to have to make such drastic changes to the settings. It still looks different from component, but now I have to decide again which I like better.

my 62725 froze up and i powered down,then it got confused with digital channel 25 ota.did a reset and now will only show all analog and digital up to channel 25.when i push the device button it won't respond to any commands and does not show any device icons,then shuts itself off after about 30 sec.service man on his way thursday .i have ota only any ideas or just crazy software net command shows devices are there

That really sucks swamp water. I do hope you kept a spare traditional TV as a back up. That is a similar problem a friend of mine had . He was able to jump start it by unplugging and plugging it back in. He waited maybe 40-50 sec. Had to do that daily .He did not fool around. Told , I think Sears, to replace it. Of course this was back when Sears owned Sears{6mo.ago} and they had a liberal 90 day return, now k-mart policy is 30 days if you can bend over and kiss your big toe.

I fortunately, and he now, have not had this problem. YET!!

Have you talked to MITs HQ Command Central 1-949-830-8364, this is 2nd or next level of CSR/tech. after 1 800- dun-know.
Bear

the tv is a just over a year old.unpluging and pluging in did no good,luckily i got a 4 year extended warranty from magnolia ,hopefully they will treat me right.thanks for the phone number

my 62725 froze up and i powered down,then it got confused with digital channel 25 ota.did a reset and now will only show all analog and digital up to channel 25.when i push the device button it won't respond to any commands and does not show any device icons,then shuts itself off after about 30 sec.service man on his way thursday .i have ota only any ideas or just crazy software net command shows devices are there

This sounds a lot like the old software glitch that has been fixed via upgrade. What version do you have on your set (current, I believe, is .05). Mits will send you a CF card to upgrade. Takes minutes.

Good luck!

I mostly never use the internal tuner, but the other day I ran an automatic scan. (I live in the Dallas Ft. Worth area and did post this in the Local HD Info area as well.) The strange thing is that the auto scan found a bunch of stations in the 99.xx range all of which were premium channels, e.g. ESPN, TLC, FOOD, FX, etc. There were about 12 of them that showed up on the guide, but I can't switch to any of them. Does anyone know what's up with this?

I have had my 52725 for almost a year now and within the last 6 weeks have started to notice something strange:

From time to time it is as if the screen tears down the middle (actually just off center to the left) and the two halves of video are not in sync. This usually only lasts for a split second or two but it is becoming more frequent. That is the simplest way I can explain it.

I searched this thread for words like rip and tear with no luck. I am wondering if any of you have experienced what I have with your xx725. Also, I have seen this from multiple video sources.

Thanks!

I had a similar sounding problem a while back. I think the culprit was a signal booster I was using for my cable tv line. If you use cable or satellite, you may want to have the company come and test your signal.

Here's the old post from the other Mits DLP mega-thread:

Post re "Slashes" (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4464184&&#post4464184)

I used an adobe program to make some 1280 x 720 color jpgs. I made white, black, red, green, and blue. I figured I'd look for bad stops on the screen and it would aid in cleaning. The problem is when I place my memory stick in the tv, it won't see the files. It does see filed of pics taken with my camera, but not files created on, or copied over from my PC. Anyone know what's going on?

Thanks

the premium channels you saw in DFW on the OTA was from USDTV

For all you Mits owners you might want to take a look here;

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=602499

I used an adobe program to make some 1280 x 720 color jpgs. I made white, black, red, green, and blue. I figured I'd look for bad stops on the screen and it would aid in cleaning. The problem is when I place my memory stick in the tv, it won't see the files. It does see filed of pics taken with my camera, but not files created on, or copied over from my PC. Anyone know what's going on?

Thanks There is a spec for how still pics are stored on media. Anything you stick on the media needs to follow the same spec otherwise nothing will see it other than your computer. Try creating the exact same file/folder structure that's on your media when the camara puts files there. If you duplicate that, you might be able to get the Mits to see it. If nothing else, do a fresh format of your media in the camera, take 5 "dummy" pictures, write down the filenames, and replace them with your JPG files using the exact same names. I've not tried this, but it might work for you.

The default value for all colors are 31. I wonder what about if I set all the colors to 45? Will it still keep the color balance while boost the color brightness? As many people had noticed that Mits is bit less bright compared to some other brands. I am trying to find any way to improve the brightness while not degrading the black level. If you just simply adjust the bright and contrast control, the black and white level will be affected.

I tried it last night. It looked more vivid when setting all color to 45.
But I am not a video expert, I don't know if there is any downside by doing this.
Can anyone cmomment on this?

Well, my 52525 that has been working near flawlessly for me for over one year and 3,000+ hours seems to now be experiencing a light engine or chassis electronics problem. Twice in the last 3 days I've seen vertical green or black bars suddenly appear on the screen, then the tv turns off by itself and the green light blinks non-stop. Unplugging the tv and plugging it back in ''resets'' the tv and it works again, but like I said, it has happened a couple of times recently. I suspect a complete failure of the problem component is imminent. Two questions...

1. Anyone know what the constant blinking green light indicates? The manual does not mention this error code.

2. I bought the extended warranty option and the problem is intermittent. Should I call the company handling the warranty now even though the problem isn't evident at the moment, or should I wait until there is a complete failure?

Thanks

Edit: Couple of hours after posting the above, I experienced complete failure with the whole screen showing vertical bars and then tv shutting down. Resetting of the tv does not help anymore. I guess I answered question no. 2. Also makes question no. 1 irrelevant.

Well, my 52525 that has been working near flawlessly for me for over one year and 3,000+ hours seems to now be experiencing a light engine or chassis electronics problem. Twice in the last 3 days I've seen vertical green or black bars suddenly appear on the screen, then the tv turns off by itself and the green light blinks non-stop. Unplugging the tv and plugging it back in ''resets'' the tv and it works again, but like I said, it has happened a couple of times recently. I suspect a complete failure of the problem component is imminent. Two questions...



Are the vertical stripes similar to the "candystripe" pattern pictured in this thread? (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4581198&&#post4581198) Please let us know how the repairs go.

Are the vertical stripes similar to the "candystripe" pattern pictured in this thread? (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4581198&&#post4581198) Please let us know how the repairs go.

Ah, the good old days...

Back at the time I took that pic, a firmware update fixed the problem. I never had the TV shut down, though.

Yes, the picture of the 'candystripe' you linked to looks exactly like what i am seeing. I do wish that it was only a software upgrade needed, but that's very unlikely as I have v4.04 loaded. Besides, the candystripe's first appearance coincided with a loud electrical 'pop' coming from the back of the set. Definitely not a good sign. I will keep you guys posted. Thanks.

That doesn't sound good, but there is a newer version of the firmware (4.05). The fact that it shuts itself down makes it seem that it isn't just firmware.

my 62725 froze up and i powered down,then it got confused with digital channel 25 ota.did a reset and now will only show all analog and digital up to channel 25.when i push the device button it won't respond to any commands and does not show any device icons,then shuts itself off after about 30 sec.service man on his way thursday .i have ota only any ideas or just crazy software net command shows devices are there
Well it turns out that a local station was doing upgrades in the bandwidth and if you happen to tune them in during that time it confused the hell out of the set.The service guy had start the set from scratch thru the software menu,it affected other Mit sets in the area according to him, go figure , it is ok now.Apparently they are done fooling around with the bandwith.Also called Mitsubishi and got software upgrade to stop the set from freezing up now and then.They sent out the upgrade in 2 days .No hassle

___/\___
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This little thingie I was to learn caused me a major headache when it came to changing the projector bulb in my WD 62525.

I was a tad over 4000 hours on my bulb so I went ahead and ordered a replacement for it. No problem, I received it in 2 days. Followed the instructions, powered it off, unplugged it and allowed it to cool 1 hour(well more like 30 minutes). I removed the old bulb and inserted the new one until I felt it "click" into place. Tightened thumbscrews, replaced cover and screwed it down and taadaaa! Nothing......... Finally went to a red light on the front panel. Panic. toook it all apart...pulled it out....looked at bulb....reseated it ....Put it all back together. Taaadaaa! Nothing. Fine sweat on upper lip now. Pulled it out...reseated original bulb. Put it all back together.....Taaadaaa! Nothing.
I'm really sweating bullets now. I pull the original bulb out and look inside the socket where the electrical connection is made between the bulb and the television. There is nothing there!!!!!! With my flashlight I can see that the connector from the TV is hanging loose and cocked at an angle. The only way to find out what is going on is to partially disassemble the TV. I take the lower back off including the fan cover on the lower left side. Under this cover is a metal plate. It looks like it might be an RF shield. I remove it partially all the way from the left corner to partially include the connection panel.
After removing this and pulling the RF shield away, I can see this little piece that have at the top of the page was what held the electrical connector on the TV side in place so the connector on the lamp assembly could slide into it. The little tines was all that gripped the TV side connector and held it and either by design flaw or excessive heat, it had warped enough to loosed and allow the connector to fall back inside the TV.
The solution was to install the lamp assembly and screw it down firmly with the thumbscrews. Then go too the back of the TV and push the TV side connector trough the hole into the bulb side connector. It wasn't a pretty sight but it worked!!
Buttoned it all backed up and I'm now back in business although I did end up with a couple of extra screws.
By the way, the new bulb did amazing things for my picture quality. Whites are white again and the blacks also look blacker. Even my wife who really doesn't care and thinks I'm a little nutty commented that the picture looked much better. The original bulb was an OSRAM and the new bulb was an OSRAM. However, the difference is really like night and day!
Sorry for the long post.

Thanks for that informative and detailed post woodyww. I'm very close to purchasing a replacement bulb for my set and using the existing one as a backup. Your comment about substantial improvement in PQ seals the deal. Done in conjuction with a long overdue primary lens cleaning, I ought to see a remarkable improvement.

Regarding the problem with my 52525, the technician came over today and we plugged it in and, naturally, the set exibited no problems whatsover. I even had to concede that the ozone smell I thought was coming from the back of the set was the natural odor eminating from the inside. Anyway, he said he never saw or heard of the 'candystripe' phenomenon I described to him, but that the constant blinking of the green light without pause was an indication of a problem with the electronics chassis. He recommended I use it heavily and see if the problem returns. If it does, we'll need to replace the chassis......that's if the extended warranty company gives it's approval.....which is a whole other story......to be continued. Enjoy the weekend folks.

This little thingie I was to learn caused me a major headache when it came to changing the projector bulb in my WD 62525.

I was a tad over 4000 hours on my bulb so I went ahead and ordered a replacement for it.

I just replaced my bulb about 15 minutes ago after 3667 hours. It went it just like it was supposed to and I did not have the problem you had (thankfully). Maybe this is a quality control problem and not a pervasive design flaw.

Do you see a noticeable improvement in Picture Quality with the new bulb?

Just had Les Holt ( his profile is in the Calibrators Thread) ISF my WD62725. WOW - What a difference. Well worth the money.

I just received a new firmware version and loaded it on. However, I am still getting strange errors using ChannelView. For instance I can NOT get the first 5 or 6 channels to be listed on the ChannelView guide (i.e. 2, 3, 4-1, 4-2, 4-3). It will not scroll back past 4-4. I can get to these channels via "Channel Down" button. Also there are several channels PAST the last one that shows up in ChannelView (i.e. past 125). A real stupid question, how do you enter directly a digital channel (i.e. 4-2)?

Thanks in advance,
David

I just received a new firmware version and loaded it on. However, I am still getting strange errors using ChannelView. For instance I can NOT get the first 5 or 6 channels to be listed on the ChannelView guide (i.e. 2, 3, 4-1, 4-2, 4-3). It will not scroll back past 4-4. I can get to these channels via "Channel Down" button. Also there are several channels PAST the last one that shows up in ChannelView (i.e. past 125). A real stupid question, how do you enter directly a digital channel (i.e. 4-2)?

Thanks in advance,
David

To directly enter digital channel 4-2:
4,"Sub/Cancel",2, enter

"Enter" is optional, and the Sub/Cancel button is the one to the right of the number buttons.

WAHOO for me!!

Just picked up my first HD set, the WD-62725 on Monday after extensive reading in the forums here. VERY cool. No probs so far. NICE PQ.

Couple questions for y'all,

while we're talking about digi channels, if I go out and buy an antennae, and plug it into ANT-2 and re-scan the channels, will that automatically pull in any OTA HD channels?

Is it possible to customize the icons on the device manager screen?

Is there a more simple guide to setting up Net Command somewhere?

thanks!

Do you see a noticeable improvement in Picture Quality with the new bulb?

I myself didn't but my girlfriend thought it looked better. The old bulb was clean (that is, there was not a dust layer on the bulb itself) and I have not inspected my mirrors (uncleaned after about 11 months of operation). If others have put in a new bulb and also cleaned the mirrors and report improvement it may be just the mirror cleaning and not the new bulb.

From what I read back when I was considering DLP vs LCD the bulb running time on a DLP is not supposed to cause degradation of the PQ as it does with an LCD.

WAHOO for me!!

Just picked up my first HD set, the WD-62725 on Monday after extensive reading in the forums here. VERY cool. No probs so far. NICE PQ.

Couple questions for y'all,

while we're talking about digi channels, if I go out and buy an antennae, and plug it into ANT-2 and re-scan the channels, will that automatically pull in any OTA HD channels?

Is it possible to customize the icons on the device manager screen?

Is there a more simple guide to setting up Net Command somewhere?

thanks!

Relative to OTA, yes it will look for digital and analog both. Note that there is a setting you can change called "prefer digital" or similar meaning if the TV picks up analog channel 4 and digital channel 4-1 (for example) it will default to showing you 4-1. If you uncheck the box it will show you channel 4 (analog) and you can change the channel to 4-1 manually. Note that currently digital OTA is all UHF even for stations that are analog VHF. This will change in a few years but all OTA HD is UHF now. Check out antennaweb.org for details. If you live far away from the towers I would suggest a Channelmaster 4228 or similar. This is a complex issue that I don't want to drift into here off topic but I'd suggest going to the OTA antenna thread for details before you buy. [EDIT - apparently some markets have digital channels in the VHF range - see posts below]

Relative to customizing the icons, do you mean is there a way to change the icon itself or do you mean can you add or delete device icons from the list? I've not found a way to change the actual icon but yes you can add and delete devices from the device menu. I have not done this in a while but I'm pretty sure it is through the Net Command setup. There's a list of inputs/devices you can check and uncheck from a list to add/remove them from the menu.

Regarding a simpler Net Command setup you are on your own. I think it is needlessly complicated and never set up the Net Command fully.

Note that currently digital OTA is all UHF even for stations that are analog VHF. This will change in a few years but all OTA HD is UHF now.

This is not strictly true, though it probably applies for many markets. In the Dallas area, the digital channels for the ABC affiliate, WFAA Channel 8, are carried on channel 9. That is the only one is this market, but it is out there (and it is a pain, I might add).....

-Randy

hahaha, thanks for the reply!

Got another question for y'all,

My Sony dvd player puts out a pretty good picture, so I know this isnt a tv prob.

I just recieved another player yesterday in the mail, a Clearplay dvd player that filters movies for ya (takes out sex, drugs, etc) and it looks like I have a 15 year old CRT rear projection tv with horrible convergence issues. the red is a 1/2" to the left, blue on the right. Is this just a crappy player I should return, or can I calibrate it to look good? (A friend has my Avia disk right now, unfortunately). My first inclination is to just return it and get an Oppo DVD player. I've heard they're quite the bang for the buck.

thanks for any help!

This is not strictly true, though it probably applies for many markets. In the Dallas area, the digital channels for the ABC affiliate, WFAA Channel 8, are carried on channel 9. That is the only one is this market, but it is out there (and it is a pain, I might add).....

-Randy

Here in West Michigan, two of the big 4 networks are VHF. WWMT (CBS) digital is on VHF 2 (probably the worst possible channel assignment anyone could ask for), and WOOD (NBC) is digital channel 7.

The VHF digitals aren't terribly common, but there are definitely some out there.

hahaha, thanks for the reply!

Got another question for y'all,

My Sony dvd player puts out a pretty good picture, so I know this isnt a tv prob.

I just recieved another player yesterday in the mail, a Clearplay dvd player that filters movies for ya (takes out sex, drugs, etc) and it looks like I have a 15 year old CRT rear projection tv with horrible convergence issues. the red is a 1/2" to the left, blue on the right. Is this just a crappy player I should return, or can I calibrate it to look good? (A friend has my Avia disk right now, unfortunately). My first inclination is to just return it and get an Oppo DVD player. I've heard they're quite the bang for the buck.

thanks for any help!

Is it connected to component video inputs on the TV? If so, maybe you have a couple of the component video cables crossed?

Nothing is idiot proof to a sufficiently motivated idiot. how true it is...


I called up their tech support to complain and the guy said, "you see that button on your remote that says [something like] "view"? Press it to go to Progressive scan and that'll fix your problem."

sure enough, pic is fine.

LOL! :P

Here in West Michigan, two of the big 4 networks are VHF. WWMT (CBS) digital is on VHF 2 (probably the worst possible channel assignment anyone could ask for), and WOOD (NBC) is digital channel 7.

The VHF digitals aren't terribly common, but there are definitely some out there.


Not to get off topic but that is interesting and something I had not heard. How long has it been the case that those digital signals were in VHF in your market? I had not seen this reported in the main OTA antenna thread. They are all UHF in the Washington / Baltimore region and was under the impression this was the case all over for the next few years.

This would mean one needs to check antennaweb.org and make sure all digital channels in the area are UHF before getting a Channelmaster 4228 (UHF only) otherwise there may be cases where a combo UHF/VHF antenna would be needed like a Channelmaster 3018 (all of this assuming that you live some distance from the transmitters).

Nothing is idiot proof to a sufficiently motivated idiot. how true it is...


I called up their tech support to complain and the guy said, "you see that button on your remote that says [something like] "view"? Press it to go to Progressive scan and that'll fix your problem."

sure enough, pic is fine.

LOL! :P

You do realize that my signature wasn't directed at you, right? :D

Not to get off topic but that is interesting and something I had not heard. How long has it been the case that those digital signals were in VHF in your market? I had not seen this reported in the main OTA antenna thread.



If you are bored, check out the Grand Rapids, MI thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=349584&page=1&pp=30

You can see us all posting messages complaining about WWMT (CBS) on channel 2!

These are the channel assignments they have always had. I am not sure how long they have been broadcasting digitally, though.

Guys, I stopped receiving any updates to this thread so I looked it up to post. I've had my TV for sometime now and can I still love it. Great pic and everything is working great. Everyone that comes to the house loves it. We just moved and the wife and I moved the TV by ourselves without having to get 20 people to help. It was great.

I'm really impressed with the lamp life of my WD-52525. I have 5790 hours on the bulb and it is still going strong. The only issue is a very slight flickering at times. It is only noticable when there is a stationary image on the TV, like a computer screen. I've even had a couple power outages that shut down the hot bulb immediately.

I think I am going to use that as a reason to get the bulb replaced under warranty, though.

Supposedly the lamp life indicator (yellow light) is supposed to turn on at 4000 hours. According to the manual, at least. Mine didn't go on yet because the we hit the wrong button when we unplugged the TV and plugged it back in one day at 2500hours. So now we have two hour tallys to add up.

Given the issues that I have heard mentioned with respect to virtually every other microdisplay out there, I'm very impressed with Mitsubishi. Maybe the bulb really is worth an extra $50 over the others. ;)

I called up Mitsubishi today, finally got it to ring instead of being busy, and told the guy that the bulb had been flickering. He immediately told me what to do. Turn off the TV. Unplug it. Let the bulb cool down for an hour. Then take the bulb out and shake it. Yes, shake it! Apparently the mercury puddles in the bulb and shaking it will redistribute it. Then put the bulb back in and tell the TV that you replaced the bulb (to keep any annoying messages or LEDs away).

He said that shaking the bulb should make the image a ton brigher, too, which is good because it definitely has lost some pop. He also told me that the bulb is supposed to last 8000 hours! I'm at 5500.

I'll try it out in a couple hours and report back.

The guy took my name, address, serial number and phone number and they are actually going to call me back tomorrow to make sure it worked.

I called up Mitsubishi today, finally got it to ring instead of being busy, and told the guy that the bulb had been flickering. He immediately told me what to do. Turn off the TV. Unplug it. Let the bulb cool down for an hour. Then take the bulb out and shake it. Yes, shake it! Apparently the mercury puddles in the bulb and shaking it will redistribute it. Then put the bulb back in and tell the TV that you replaced the bulb (to keep any annoying messages or LEDs away).

He said that shaking the bulb should make the image a ton brigher, too, which is good because it definitely has lost some pop. He also told me that the bulb is supposed to last 8000 hours! I'm at 5500.

I'll try it out in a couple hours and report back.

The guy took my name, address, serial number and phone number and they are actually going to call me back tomorrow to make sure it worked.

Thanks, Shape. Let us know how it works. I would like to know if it makes the image noticeably brighter. I have 3100 hours on mine right now. You must have your TV on 24/7 to have that many hours on it!

Are you sure about that number? You shouldn't have to add any numbers if the lamp you have is still the original. The total would be the first number in the lower left corner. (see attachment). Is this the number that shows 5500?

EDIT: I guess 5500 might be reasonable if you got yours around the time they first came out (April, I think).

Oh, jeez, nevermind. :) I only have 2795 hours, then. I thought we had messed up at one point and reset the counter to the second one. I didn't realize it was total TV hours first.

Oh, jeez, nevermind. :) I only have 2795 hours, then. I thought we had messed up at one point and reset the counter to the second one. I didn't realize it was total TV hours first.

No problem... :D

My wife did the same "hit the wrong button" thing after a reset, but it didn't do what I would expect. I have numbers in the first and second position. The second number reset to zero, but the "previous lamp" timer (the third position) shows all zeroes. I wonder if something else happens when you disconnect the bulb and connect a new one (or put the original one back in)...

The TV didn't even ask me if I replaced the bulb or not. Odd, that.

After shaking the lamp, the picture has improved dramatically. I think the flickering is gone. The brightness has returned to its original level. Between this and cleaning the mirrors, I have a brand new TV!

Holy cow. I'm gonna do this right now. Thanks shape ! :)

P.S. Still haven't got my TV fixed (random shut-off). Too busy to schedule it atm.

[QUOTE=Shape] I've even had a couple power outages that shut down the hot bulb immediately.QUOTE]

ALL, you really need to put a UPS on your TV if you don't have one..it really helps to not have it bumped around by power hits.. I use the APC BX1000 that I got for $100.. :)

I'm considering a new TV in this size range for Christmas. Costco has the WD-52525 w/stand for $1999. Is that a good price? I think it's as large a unit as I can put in that spot, and $2000 is about as much as I want to spend. The ratings on this unit look pretty good, but of course most of the ratings I found are like a year old (when the unit was far more expensive). Are there other (newer?) units that are better now for that general price range? Or is it better to wait for newer technology? Once I pop for this kind of money, I plan to make it my primary TV for hopefully the next 10+ years.

In the store (I checked Costco and Circuit City), it appearsed the LCD units were brighter than the DLP units. Is that typical, or was it more likely they just had the settings a little different. I hate a dark screen, but I don't like the washed-out look from turning the brightness up too high either.

Sorry to flood with a lot of questions. There's just so much to this anymore.

[QUOTE=Shape] I've even had a couple power outages that shut down the hot bulb immediately.QUOTE]

ALL, you really need to put a UPS on your TV if you don't have one..it really helps to not have it bumped around by power hits.. I use the APC BX1000 that I got for $100.. :)

I actually bought and installed one yesterday. :) Got a 400W UPS at Best Buy. It was normally $90, was $50 off, I had a 12% off coupon and a $10 rewards certificate. Got it for $25. :D I plugged my TV and my Tivo into it. My Vonage box, cable modem and router are plugged into a UPS I got for $10 earlier this year.

I tend to wait for the sales on UPSs because I know that they go on sale big time every once in a while.

[QUOTE=Shape
I tend to wait for the sales on UPSs because I know that they go on sale big time every once in a while.[/QUOTE]


Same here.. you can get some really good deals..I got a 900VA for $25 last year..

The TV didn't even ask me if I replaced the bulb or not. Odd, that.

After shaking the lamp, the picture has improved dramatically. I think the flickering is gone. The brightness has returned to its original level. Between this and cleaning the mirrors, I have a brand new TV!
Well, it's too bad that I didn't see this "shaking" trick before I replaced my lamp, but since it was covered by my extended 5 year warranty, it was no problem. My 62525 had 3971 total hours (bought in Sept. 2004), and was getting very dim in the last few weeks. I'm not sure shaking would have done much good in this case, since the lens and reflector area were pretty fogged and dull, especially compared to the new bright reflector surface and clear lens on the new lamp. Anyways, the result was strikingly improved. Had to turn down the contrast and brightness (had been running both at 63 before replacement.) My tv never asked about lamp replacement (as it did when it was new, with each reset). Perhaps the software updates changed this feature. I am running version ".05" So the counters for both the left column (total hours) and the second column are just adding hours to what was already there, so I jotted those numbers down for future reference. I have seen some claims that 8000 hours should be possible, but the dealer where I bought mine has said that more lamps have gone out before 4000 hours than after, with 5000 hours being the top he has seen so far. Maybe the technology will improve durability. The pq is quite stunning, and I am a happy camper with this set so far.

About how much do replacement lamps for the WD52525 cost, anyway?

$250 for a replacement lamp.

Thanks, Shape.

So for a roughly $2000 budget, do you think a WD-52525 is a good way to go for something in the 50-52" range? Or are there better, newer choices now for that general price?

The dependability issue seems to crop up in a lot of posts for this unit (needing to hit reset a lot). That worries me just a bit, but I don't know if it's a widespread problem or not.

I haven't had to hit reset since I got the latest firmware back in, oh, April of this year. It is quite stable.

For $2000, I think that the 52525 is probably a great way to go.

However, this year's crop of TVs have dynamic irises. If you can find a TV with an iris that cheap or within a couple hundred, I'd go with that one. But I suspect you won't start to see them that cheap until super bowl time. :) Dynamic irises increase the contrast, which the 52525 lacks somewhat compared to newer models.

Still, the 52525 is an amazing deal at $2000.

Thanks for the opinion. Other than for those people that have the desire (and money) to spend thousands on new gear every couple of years, it's hard to know just when to jump in and get that expensive new TV that we hope lasts for 10 years. They change so fast that they're nearly obsolete 2-3 years down the road. No matter when we buy, there's always going to be something better and cheaper 6 months or a year down the road.

But in checking prices all over the web, those that still have this model are still asking closer to $2200-$2500 for it, and that's without the base (another $200-$250). So it does sound like a good deal. I'll go and take another look at it, but I'm leaning toward getting it.

Thanks again!

I wouldn't get the Mitsubishi stand. It has zero room underneath it for devices.

You can find the 52525 at Best Buy for pretty damn cheap ($1999?), depending on the store. One by me still has one on display.

I second that comment by Shape - BB delivered the Mits stand with my TV, and I made them go back and get the right one. I had seen the Mits stand, and it was painfullly obvious that it wasn't practical because of the lack of component space.

Nope the Mits stand stinks big time but I really like the look of it. I'll stick the components off to the side for now. However, eventually I'll get my dedicated HT back (sold the house this year and the current one doesn't have the room for it) and have a front projection system and relagate my DLP TV to the living room for daily tv watching.

I've had this TV for a while and all I can say is that I love it. I have the 57" model.

I notice the stand has a lot of dead space on either side, with the shelves taking up only the middle third or so of the entire base. That is a shame. If I get the Costco deal, I won't really have any choice. That's the stand that comes with it and I'm sure they won't allow swaps. At present, I only have 3 devices I need to put there (DVR/cable box, home theater amp, and DVD player), and I think all 3 should fit OK.

I check my nearest Best Buy and I didn't find the 52525. Nor on their website. But the Costco deal is the same price ($1999) and it comes with the stand. I don't find this one on Costco's website either, so I'm guessing once they run out in the store, there's no more. I better get back over there soon.

I had gotten the 62525 from Costco with the free stand and if the back of it had some openings it might have worked for my dvr and htpc. Instead they hung out a few inches. So I put it in storage and built one for about $120.

That sucks. I didn't notice it had a back on it and is apparently not very deep. That could be an issue, since my DVR is quite deep. Plus of course the extra space needed for the cables to stick out the back. Thanks for bring this up. I'll take a take measure and inspect the stand more carefully when I go look again. I presume it's just wood, so I might be able to make my own openings (without damaging the structural integrity too much, of course).

I had made the mistake of measuring the components and not the components and the cables. Makes a big difference.

I went back to Costco and noticed the Panasonic PT52LCX15B (after rebate, stand included) is also $1999. How does it compare to the WD52525? For the same price, which one is better?

The Panny is an LDC and the Mits is a DLP. When I see LCD's side-by-side with DLPs (like these two), the LCD is usually brighter (which I like), but it could just be the settings. The LCD has more noticeable pixels, but it's a non-issue from 4+ feet away, so it really doesn't bother me.

Also, does anyone know if the PT52LCX15B is really the same as the PT52LCX65? I've heard Costco and Sam's get the exact same units but with slightly different model numbers. It appears like it's the same unit.

Thanks!

I went back to Costco and noticed the Panasonic PT52LCX15B (after rebate, stand included) is also $1999. How does it compare to the WD52525? For the same price, which one is better?

The Panny is an LDC and the Mits is a DLP. When I see LCD's side-by-side with DLPs (like these two), the LCD is usually brighter (which I like), but it could just be the settings. The LCD has more noticeable pixels, but it's a non-issue from 4+ feet away, so it really doesn't bother me.

Also, does anyone know if the PT52LCX15B is really the same as the PT52LCX65? I've heard Costco and Sam's get the exact same units but with slightly different model numbers. It appears like it's the same unit.

Thanks!

Hi,
You'll probably have better luck asking about the Pannys in a one of those threads...but someone here might know something. As far as the brightness goes, from what I have read most of the people that purchase the Mits sets don't tend to run them in 'torch' mode. While I used to think of brighter as better, I came to prefer a more natural picture, and I think that you'll find that to be true of most of the people on here. The Perfect Color settings on the Mits really help deliver that. I have never regretted my purchase of my 62725...well, except that I want a 1080p set now!

As far as LCD projection sets go, I haven't looked much since I bought my set, but I've heard that they are getting better. They used to have problems with artifacting in fast motion scenes, but maybe that has gotten better. I would definitely try to watch something with a lot of fast action to check for that.

In the end, it is all about what you like. What I find important might not be important to you. Look around as much as you can, don't be afraid to readjust the settings to better compare the pictures, etc. Have fun with it and get what looks best to you!

Good luck...

-Randy

I looked at both LCD and DLP TV's when I was shopping and found the DLP to be the better TV's right now. Look at the front projection systems as well. DLP is 20x better but 4x more expensive. For the same money and resolution...DLP everytime.

Thanks Randy. CNET's ratings on both units are quite different, with the Mits coming out way ahead (8.0 for the WD52525 vs. 5.5 for the PT52LCX65):

http://reviews.cnet.com/Panasonic_PT_52LCX65/4505-6484_7-31396050-2.html
http://reviews.cnet.com/Mitsubishi_WD_52525/4505-6484_7-31078318-2.html?tag=nav

But the Mits rating was 13 months prior than the Panny rating, which makes me wonder whether the Mits would drop some when compared to more current units.

The price most everywhere (especially online) is quite a bit cheaper for the Panny ($1600-$1900 range vs. $2000-$2500 for the Mits). Although again, the Mits' age makes it harder to find pricing for that unit. Still, the pricing would seem to indicate I'm getting a much better deal on the Mits than the Panny (at $1999 w/stand for each).

I would need to cut a large hole out of the Mits stand. It's only like 12" deep with only a vertical slit for the cables. My DVR/cable box is like 13.5" deep, and that's without the necessary 3-4" needed for cables. But it looks like a strong base that should withstand a large hole to be cut out for the boxes to extend out the back. An inconvenience to have to do that, but no biggie. I can handle that.

Despite the Panny looking brighter in the store, I think I've convinced myself the Mits is a better unit. Because it's last year's model, I can't find it on display other than Costco to compare pictures. The (newer) Panny shows up almost everywhere though.

Is there a newer model of the Mits that's really the same picture as the WD52525? It's confusing to know whether the 52627 or the 52628 is nearly the same thing (but easier to find on display), or if there's a major difference.

I looked at both LCD and DLP TV's when I was shopping and found the DLP to be the better TV's right now. Look at the front projection systems as well. DLP is 20x better but 4x more expensive. For the same money and resolution...DLP everytime.

Thanks Kevin. I know most say the difference is largely a matter of personal preference, but it still helps to get other's takes on it. When I went to Circuit City the other day, I mentioned the slightly darker picture their DLPs had too (vs LCD). He simply adjusted the controls a little to turn up the brightness and then they looked the same. That's one downside to Costco -- they don't even have remotes out to be able to change the settings.

Folks,

I've noticed that the new 1080p models have a TV guide feature whereby those that are using the cable card option can have a guide similar to a cable box (albeit with all the drawbacks associated with such a "built in" guide feature). My 62725 has the Channel Guide feature, which I guess is different from the TV Guide. Everytime I click on Guide, there is not data except something like DChan (or the like, I can't remember exactly). I am using a Cable Card from Time Warner cable and have the 05 software on my set. Am I doing something wrong? Is there something I can do to get the Guide to work?

Thanks

Folks,

I've noticed that the new 1080p models have a TV guide feature whereby those that are using the cable card option can have a guide similar to a cable box (albeit with all the drawbacks associated with such a "built in" guide feature). My 62725 has the Channel Guide feature, which I guess is different from the TV Guide. Everytime I click on Guide, there is not data except something like DChan (or the like, I can't remember exactly). I am using a Cable Card from Time Warner cable and have the 05 software on my set. Am I doing something wrong? Is there something I can do to get the Guide to work?

Thanks

Sorry....I meant Channel View not Channel Guide. Tks

Folks,

I've noticed that the new 1080p models have a TV guide feature whereby those that are using the cable card option can have a guide similar to a cable box (albeit with all the drawbacks associated with such a "built in" guide feature). My 62725 has the Channel Guide feature, which I guess is different from the TV Guide. Everytime I click on Guide, there is not data except something like DChan (or the like, I can't remember exactly). I am using a Cable Card from Time Warner cable and have the 05 software on my set. Am I doing something wrong? Is there something I can do to get the Guide to work?

Thanks

I could be wrong, but I don't believe that there is a guide on the Mits DLP's (unless it is on the 725's and not the 525's). I thought that they had been planning to incorporate it into the 725, but backed out at the last minute because of problems with it (was it Gemstar-based?).

I also thought that one of the limitations of using a cablecard was that there was NO on-screen guide like you would get with a cable STB...

Well, I got the WD52525, but I carefully kept all the packing in case I need to return it to Costco. I hooked it up, sitting next to my Panny CT-34WX54J (34" HD tube). I hooked all the cables up to the new unit (component from the cable box), and ran the SD video from the cable box to the old Panny so I could compare SD pictures.

The HD channels look GREAT! Offhand, I don't need see any adjustments needed for the HD programs. The HD picture looks at least as good as the 34" tube, maybe even better.

BUT, the SD channels leave a lot to be desired. The first time I put it on an SD channel, I was shocked at how crappy things looked. That's when I hooked up the 34" TV to be able to compare them for SD channels.

Perhaps I just didn't notice how bad SD is in general, but on the 34" tube it's just not that noticeable, compared to the 52" DLP. There's probably a term for this, but there's a "flutter" in the picture that shows up far more on the 52". If you look closely on the 34", it's there too, but it's just not very noticeable.

Graphics show up just fine. Watch something like Fox News, when they introduce a segment with the colorful moving graphics, that all looks fine, even though it an SD program. But when it shows camera shots, the graininess and flutter of the image shows up loud and clear. Same with sitcoms and stuff like that on SD channels.

Interestingly, a non-HD program broadcast on an HD channel looks very good as well. But when I swap back and forth between the HD and non-HD versions of a local channel, even though it's a non-HD program, it shows up far better on the HD channel, without the graininess or flutter.

I don't know how much of the SD flutter is due to it simply being a large projection (vs the smaller 34" tube), i.e. the flaws are simply going to be magnified far more on the larger screen; or whether there's some tweaking that can be done to improve the SD picture.

Suggestions? I just hooked it up myself out of the box (bought it from Costco), so would a professional config be able to improve the SD PQ? Or is there an online guide somewhere to help me tweak things myself? Again, the HD picture looks fabulous. It's just SD that is noticeably poorer than it was on the 34" tube.

Well, I got the WD52525, but I carefully kept all the packing in case I need to return it to Costco. I hooked it up, sitting next to my Panny CT-34WX54J (34" HD tube). I hooked all the cables up to the new unit (component from the cable box), and ran the SD video from the cable box to the old Panny so I could compare SD pictures.

The HD channels look GREAT! Offhand, I don't need see any adjustments needed for the HD programs. The HD picture looks at least as good as the 34" tube, maybe even better.

BUT, the SD channels leave a lot to be desired. The first time I put it on an SD channel, I was shocked at how crappy things looked. That's when I hooked up the 34" TV to be able to compare them for SD channels.

Perhaps I just didn't notice how bad SD is in general, but on the 34" tube it's just not that noticeable, compared to the 52" DLP. There's probably a term for this, but there's a "flutter" in the picture that shows up far more on the 52". If you look closely on the 34", it's there too, but it's just not very noticeable.

Graphics show up just fine. Watch something like Fox News, when they introduce a segment with the colorful moving graphics, that all looks fine, even though it an SD program. But when it shows camera shots, the graininess and flutter of the image shows up loud and clear. Same with sitcoms and stuff like that on SD channels.

Interestingly, a non-HD program broadcast on an HD channel looks very good as well. But when I swap back and forth between the HD and non-HD versions of a local channel, even though it's a non-HD program, it shows up far better on the HD channel, without the graininess or flutter.

I don't know how much of the SD flutter is due to it simply being a large projection (vs the smaller 34" tube), i.e. the flaws are simply going to be magnified far more on the larger screen; or whether there's some tweaking that can be done to improve the SD picture.

Suggestions? I just hooked it up myself out of the box (bought it from Costco), so would a professional config be able to improve the SD PQ? Or is there an online guide somewhere to help me tweak things myself? Again, the HD picture looks fabulous. It's just SD that is noticeably poorer than it was on the 34" tube.

Turn the sharpness down to 15 or less, turn off DefinEdge, color temp to suit you - I used to like "Low" but I am leaning toward medium/high lately. Try brightness and contrast around the 40-50 levels.

These setting are all in the video menu.

Your looking at the same number of pixels but on a larger screen. Anytime you look at a larger picture of the same thing artifacts will show up. I have the 57725 (I think it's been too long) but love the SD picture on the TV compared to anything else that I've seen.

I have the 62525 and I am very happy with the SD picture quality. Seating distance is probably important too. How far away do you sit? I sit about 15-17 ft from mine, so that helps. When I walk up close to it it does look pretty bad on SD.

I could be wrong, but I don't believe that there is a guide on the Mits DLP's (unless it is on the 725's and not the 525's). I thought that they had been planning to incorporate it into the 725, but backed out at the last minute because of problems with it (was it Gemstar-based?).

I also thought that one of the limitations of using a cablecard was that there was NO on-screen guide like you would get with a cable STB...

The TV Guide feature only made it into the 825s. The 725s were supposed to have it, but there were problems (contractual in nature, I think) with Gemstar, so it never materialized. They reduced the MSRP a little to accomodate for that....

-Randy

I have the 62525 and I am very happy with the SD picture quality. Seating distance is probably important too. How far away do you sit? I sit about 15-17 ft from mine, so that helps. When I walk up close to it it does look pretty bad on SD.

I'm about 13-14 feet away. When I get up closer, the imperfections in the 34" tube show up more too (for SD). But at 13-14 feet, I barely noticed them. Maybe there's a "sweet spot" where the imperfections are less noticeable.

I played with the video settings as you suggested. It's a slight bit better. I suppose I'm getting a little more used to it. It's not too bad, but it does have that "projection TV" lower PQ vs the tube. I guess I shouldn't be surprised, since I presume all larger screen projection TVs have that for SD programs. But the difference between HD vs SD on this unit is far more dramatic than it was on the 34" tube. I probably just had my expectations too high, particularly since they (natually) tend to have only HD demos running in the store.

I'm about 13-14 feet away. When I get up closer, the imperfections in the 34" tube show up more too (for SD). But at 13-14 feet, I barely noticed them. Maybe there's a "sweet spot" where the imperfections are less noticeable.

I played with the video settings as you suggested. It's a slight bit better. I suppose I'm getting a little more used to it. It's not too bad, but it does have that "projection TV" lower PQ vs the tube. I guess I shouldn't be surprised, since I presume all larger screen projection TVs have that for SD programs. But the difference between HD vs SD on this unit is far more dramatic than it was on the 34" tube. I probably just had my expectations too high, particularly since they (natually) tend to have only HD demos running in the store.

One thing that I would recommend, also, is NOT to watch SD content stretched to fit the width of the screen. The best setting for this is to have the "info" button on the remote show "Narrow" during SD viewing. "Standard" is the stretch to fit mode. You change these (toggle through the available settings) by pushing the "Format" button on the remote. Personally I think that stretched SD looks horrible, but others like to take full advantage of all of the extra screen real estate. I just hate the way things look when they are distorted in the horizontal direction...

One thing that I would recommend, also, is NOT to watch SD content stretched to fit the width of the screen. The best setting for this is to have the "info" button on the remote show "Narrow" during SD viewing. "Standard" is the stretch to fit mode. You change these (toggle through the available settings) by pushing the "Format" button on the remote. Personally I think that stretched SD looks horrible, but others like to take full advantage of all of the extra screen real estate. I just hate the way things look when they are distorted in the horizontal direction...

I tend to agree with you. I don't care as much for the stretched mode because it's simply not natural (changing the normal aspect ratio). But others in the house overruled me when we got our first 16:9 TV, so I've gotten used to it.

However, there is one seemingly insignificant thing on the new TV that I really like. It has black trim instead of silver. I never would have thought that would matter in the slightest, but it does! Now the black dead areas of the screen (like the left/right bars when viewing SD in normal mode) aren't nearly as noticeable when they're no longer framed by the silver trim. They just sort of blend together.

Is it true that I don't have to worry about image burn-in with LCD or DLP? That was a big reason given on our 34" tube for using full (stretch) mode.

Also, I was surprised this unit came with the protective screen uninstalled, wrapped and cardboarded seperately. I haven't even opened it, and really don't want to since it's nicely packaged. I assume it's a shiny plexiglass shield? If so, I definitely don't want to put it on, for glare reasons.

Is it true that I don't have to worry about image burn-in with LCD or DLP? That was a big reason given on our 34" tube for using full (stretch) mode.


DLP has zero burn in, since there are no phosphors to "burn". The chip is basically a bunch of pivoting micromirrors, so you can shine a light on them all day and not do any damage. LCD, according to some sources, can deteriorate over time. (The source I recall seeing this info from was Texas Instrument - and they may be a bit biased toward DLP).


Also, I was surprised this unit came with the protective screen uninstalled, wrapped and cardboarded seperately. I haven't even opened it, and really don't want to since it's nicely packaged. I assume it's a shiny plexiglass shield? If so, I definitely don't want to put it on, for glare reasons.

That is really odd. Mine was installed when I got it (a 62525, though). This wasn't an "open box" deal was it? I like the "power off" look of the TV better with the screen installed (you keep the Mits logo on the TV this way since it is part of the protective shield). But I took mine off shortly after I got mine because the screen has WAY to much glare from room lighting. In this condition, the TV looks better when the power is on, and that is the important part!

Are you sure that the protective screen isn't installed, and that the item in the box is a trim kit to trim out the edges with a frame when the protective screen is removed. I know that a trim kit is available to let you do this, but it is a service part from Mits. Maybe they are including it now? Or Costco threw it in there? Just a thought...

The screen is shiny, acrylic, and has a black border painted/silkscreened on the back. It really looks good when installed, but is a terrible glare producer.

It's wrapped in a chushy packing material, surrounded on either side by cardboard. I checked an edge, and it's definitely a big sheet of plastic (with sharp edges). It also has a sheet taped to the cardboard with instructions on how to install/uninstall the shield. The Tv itself just has an opaque finish, not shiney at all.

It was a sealed box, definitely not an open box unit. And well wrapped in packing material and wrapped in plastic. There was no sign of the box ever being opened.

Perhaps they just learned that most people prefer the shield off, for glare reasons, and started shipping them that way. Nice touch.

The foam block around the lens is supposed to be held in place with some sticky double faced tape on the back of the plastic that surrounds the hole. I tried to pull that foam piece back into position, but the tape would not hold it. The foam seems to have too much shape memory from being in that position too long, and it would want to go back to this position... I probably should have tried a little harder to seal it off...maybe next time I clean it I will try a little harder. I wanted to get it back together to see George Dubya speaking at the Commencement of my alma mater.

SCREEN REMOVAL:

To get the screen off, you need to remove the speaker grille, and remove the access panel that is right under the buttons. I shut off the TV and unplugged it at this point. Unplug the connector behind the panel that runs to the button panel. There are 2 screws that run through the silver panel that need to be removed (these are behind that access panel that you previously removed.

Then you have to remove the screws at the lower left and right corners (these are about an 1-1/2 inches below the bottom edge of the screen, and are covered by the speaker grille normally). There is a black plastic "fork" that points down from above (fork is part of the screen assembly). Now, on the back of the TV, there are 3 screws on each side, and 4 across the top. Once these have all been removed, the screen is actually lifted up and off (there are hooks on the back of the screen that disengage as you lift it, and the "forks" I mentioned earlier need to move up high enough to clear the slots they engage into.

Be careful with the screen, and DO NOT try setting it on its bottom, since the button panel is not strong enough to support it. I turned mine and leaned it carefully against a wall with one of the sides resting on the floor. I cleaned the mirror with a clean cotton tshirt and some premoistened eyeglass wipes. I really think it will never be completely dust free, since it is a surface that faces upward. It will always collect dust as long as dust can get inside.

To replace the screen I had my wife help me lift it back into place, watching the hooks to line them up with the slots on the TV, and making sure the lower "forks" fit correctly into position. Make sure that the wiring harness doesn't get stuck behind the screen. I then reattached this harness, and installed all of the screws in their original positions, replaced the access cover, and replaced the grill. I fired it back up and found a show with lots of white background, and it helped remove those pesky smudges.

YMMV, of course, and if you aren't comfortable doing this to your pride and joy, don't! I accept NO BLAME if you mess something up!

Thanks,
Jeff

Thanks for the information!!! I had horrible picture quality and smudges on my screen after a year and figured it was dust on the mirrors. I opened her up and low and behold, a disgusting layer of dust lay on the smaller reflective mirror. I vaccumed around the inside of the case and then blew most of the dust off the mirror with compressed air. I then took a cotton t-shirt and brushed the rest of the dust off. It worked perfectly and the picture is great again! I didn't realize how much picture quality we were losing to the dust. Much brighter!!!

You'd think the Mitsubishi could have designed this TV a little better to prevent dust from enetering the housing.

Thanks,
Mark

Thanks for the information!!! I had horrible picture quality and smudges on my screen after a year and figured it was dust on the mirrors. I opened her up and low and behold, a disgusting layer of dust lay on the smaller reflective mirror. I vaccumed around the inside of the case and then blew most of the dust off the mirror with compressed air. I then took a cotton t-shirt and brushed the rest of the dust off. It worked perfectly and the picture is great again! I didn't realize how much picture quality we were losing to the dust. Much brighter!!!

You'd think the Mitsubishi could have designed this TV a little better to prevent dust from enetering the housing.

Thanks,
Mark

I'm glad it helped!

Hey, question for all yall Mits DLP owners, I recently purchased the 62725 and am noticing lipsync issues. I am guessing it was a cheapo dvd player since everything else in my HT is now very nice, including the wires. I decided to return it for an Oppo dvd player which I'm hoping will improve things dramatically.

Anyone else have the Oppo with your Mits? Do they work well together? Any audio sync issues? What are your vid settings?

thanks!

Thanks for the information!!! I had horrible picture quality and smudges on my screen after a year and figured it was dust on the mirrors. I opened her up and low and behold, a disgusting layer of dust lay on the smaller reflective mirror. I vaccumed around the inside of the case and then blew most of the dust off the mirror with compressed air. I then took a cotton t-shirt and brushed the rest of the dust off. It worked perfectly and the picture is great again! I didn't realize how much picture quality we were losing to the dust. Much brighter!!!

You'd think the Mitsubishi could have designed this TV a little better to prevent dust from enetering the housing.

Thanks,
Mark


Jeff:
Ditto for me as well. My set is 13 months (3,070 hours) old and thanks to your instructions plus a few others, the PQ now looks just like it was out of the box. In addition to cleaning the small mirror, I also tried the blub removal, shake & replace trick. Not sure which made the most difference, but the overall quality improvement was noticeable even to my wife, who as typical, was very sceptical about me taking apart the TV.

One thing I noticed was the foam around the lens had released and created a space. I know this has been reported before, but I don't recall anyone talking about the access cover just to the right of the lens. It looks like a rectangle on the top, but almost comes to a V shape on the bottom. It is held in place by 3 screws. I removed it, stuck my hand in and pressed the foam back into place. By the time I was ready to put everything back it still held.

I also took the front glare screen off to clean behind it and now think I should have left it off. Since I couldn't answer the wife's question "where are you going to put it", it went back on the TV. Well once the Christmas decorations are put away, I'll rethink the glare screen.

Also cleaned the air filter, tilt adjustment, and re-centered the picture while I was at it.

None of the above would have been possible without this group. Thanks to all.

Jeff:
Ditto for me as well. My set is 13 months (3,070 hours) old and thanks to your instructions plus a few others, the PQ now looks just like it was out of the box. In addition to cleaning the small mirror, I also tried the blub removal, shake & replace trick. Not sure which made the most difference, but the overall quality improvement was noticeable even to my wife, who as typical, was very sceptical about me taking apart the TV.

One thing I noticed was the foam around the lens had released and created a space. I know this has been reported before, but I don't recall anyone talking about the access cover just to the right of the lens. It looks like a rectangle on the top, but almost comes to a V shape on the bottom. It is held in place by 3 screws. I removed it, stuck my hand in and pressed the foam back into place. By the time I was ready to put everything back it still held.

I also took the front glare screen off to clean behind it and now think I should have left it off. Since I couldn't answer the wife's question "where are you going to put it", it went back on the TV. Well once the Christmas decorations are put away, I'll rethink the glare screen.

Also cleaned the air filter, tilt adjustment, and re-centered the picture while I was at it.

None of the above would have been possible without this group. Thanks to all.

I tried the "shake and replace" bulb trick, and I saw no difference. One person said that their reflector was cloudy and dull (if i recall correctly), but mine looked brand new. Even the bulb looked OK, as far as I could tell (it might have been a kind of gray color, though)...

Thanks for the heads up about the access panel - I will take a look for that next time I do a mirror cleaning. I put electrical tape around the "hole" in my foam piece last time.

Could anyone take some pics of the TV coming apart and write up some directions for us newbies? How do you get in the service menu again to get the total number of hours? Thread is way to long to find info from the beginning. Thanks again guys!

Could anyone take some pics of the TV coming apart and write up some directions for us newbies? How do you get in the service menu again to get the total number of hours? Thread is way to long to find info from the beginning. Thanks again guys!


Check out posting 3339 in this thread, open up the attached file...that might get you what you are looking for :)

I think that will get me to the service menu (didn't notice it at the top) but how about pulling the TV apart?

I think that will get me to the service menu (didn't notice it at the top) but how about pulling the TV apart?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5657842&&#post5657842

Thanks, printing the pics now. Never taken a TV apart. Any capacitors that I need to worry about killing me?

Thanks, printing the pics now. Never taken a TV apart. Any capacitors that I need to worry about killing me?

You aren't going near any electrical stuff when cleaning the mirrors. The big capacitors you need to worry about tend to be on the CRT-based TV's, anyway.

But, just to be safer side, keep one hand in your pocket all times!

I have a WD-52725 from Sept 2004 and have had nothing to complain about. Until now...I have just noticed a smudge in the upper center of the screen. I know that there are various posts noting how to eliminate this, but this thread has gotten so large, I find it intimidating to say the least. Does anybody have any solutions as to where I can get the answer to getting this cleaned up? I always have had great luck getting the best answers to any of my questions in the past. In fact, this forum is the one that set me to buying this DLP unit in the first place. Thanks for the responses.
Lyle :confused:

I have a WD-52725 from Sept 2004 and have had nothing to complain about. Until now...I have just noticed a smudge in the upper center of the screen. I know that there are various posts noting how to eliminate this, but this thread has gotten so large, I find it intimidating to say the least. Does anybody have any solutions as to where I can get the answer to getting this cleaned up? I always have had great luck getting the best answers to any of my questions in the past. In fact, this forum is the one that set me to buying this DLP unit in the first place. Thanks for the responses.
Lyle :confused:


Ummm...

There is a link to my instructions 3 posts up! :D

You didn't really have to look that far after all. :rolleyes:

There are pictures of the mirror a few posts above those linked-to instructions.

Ummm...

There is a link to my instructions 3 posts up! :D

You didn't really have to look that far after all. :rolleyes:

There are pictures of the mirror a few posts above those linked-to instructions.

Well I said that I haven't been around for a while. Thanks for the info. I'll tell my nurse to look a little further next time.(Just Kidding). :eek:
I will post when I get to the project. One question: I think this is covered in the extended warrantees that were offered with the TV's. Should I call and have someone do the cleaning, or if I do it myself, do I negate the warrantee?
Thanks again Spiff72
Nice to have people looking out for one another. ;)
Lyle

Well I said that I haven't been around for a while. Thanks for the info. I'll tell my nurse to look a little further next time.(Just Kidding). :eek:
I will post when I get to the project. One question: I think this is covered in the extended warrantees that were offered with the TV's. Should I call and have someone do the cleaning, or if I do it myself, do I negate the warrantee?
Thanks again Spiff72
Nice to have people looking out for one another. ;)
Lyle

My extended warranty from GE includes an annual cleaning. As long as you don't break anything, I don't think you negate the warranty. There are no seals to break when opening up the unit to wipe the mirrors. I actually spoke with Mits service about my smudges, and they suggested I clean the mirrors (although they may have given the advice knowing I was already outside of warranty).

After the noise of the holidaze cools down, I'll call the warrantee people and schedule a cleaning. I think mine includes that cleaning, but I'll check just to be sure. The smudge isn't very large,(about the size of a quarter dollar) but it is top right center on the screen. Right where you can really pick it out when there is a sky or water scene, or white background.

Thanks for the info........

Lyle :)

No problem... :D

My wife did the same "hit the wrong button" thing after a reset, but it didn't do what I would expect. I have numbers in the first and second position. The second number reset to zero, but the "previous lamp" timer (the third position) shows all zeroes. I wonder if something else happens when you disconnect the bulb and connect a new one (or put the original one back in)...


Been awhile......

52725, bought in Jan. 05. Still have "bright spot" and still is a tad irritating in all black scenes. Overall, love the picture, football awesome. INHD programs, stunning. No smudges, no geometry issues....just the bright spot.

2 questions:

1) Has anyone heard about Mits owning up to the bright spot issue yet?

2) Kinda' confused about the hour thing. After going into the diagnostic menu, mine is: 1st position: 02958, 2nd: 01679, 3rd: 0000, 4th: 0001, 5th: 00035

So, does that mean that my overall lamp time is 02958? or a cum of all 5 numbers?

Really do love the Mits except for the bright spot. Have mine in an entertainment center, so fan noise is not an issue. Using the Mits stand but only for center channel.

Thanks for any help.

Got my 62525 is Jan 2005, warranty is about the expire (on the 12'th I think). I'd like to get extended warranty. Unit has been good except for dust inside on mirrors. I've personally cleaned in 2-3 times this year :( and I've STILL got geometry issues. Mits send someone out, but that guy didnt have the pateince (or the expertise?) to correct the problem. We (my son and I) got it to a satisfactory point, but its still messed up across the top, but since no banners or anything are shown up there- we don't really notice it except when the full screen guide is on :(

The glare is terrible, but - hey! you can't have everything.... over all I love the TV. HD programming is incredible. Sports are nothing short of amazing. Any advice for me since my warranty is about to run out? Should I contact MITS about extending it? or what?

Anything I can get from them under warranty NOW that I should get?
THANKS IN ADVANCE.

Hey guys... just saw this thread up again... just thought I would post here regarding this...

I am still trying to convince Mitsubishi to fix thier issue regarding recording from the QAM tuner. If anyone is interested in getting this issue resolved please post here or PM me. As it stands currently, no HD recording device (DVCR, DVR, etc...) is capable of recording what the xx525/xx725 is sending out of the firewire port from the QAM tuner. Basically the TV is sending out the entire DTV stream (all subchannels) to the firewire port rather than the single tuned subchannel as it should. For QAM256 signals (which the tuner obviously understands) this means data rates in excess of 39Mbps... higher than DVHS supported rates. It wouldn't be so bad if Mitsubishi didn't claim that there own DVCR and this set are compatible, but they are not.

Hey guys... just saw this thread up again... just thought I would post here regarding this...

I am still trying to convince Mitsubishi to fix thier issue regarding recording from the QAM tuner. If anyone is interested in getting this issue resolved please post here or PM me. As it stands currently, no HD recording device (DVCR, DVR, etc...) is capable of recording what the xx525/xx725 is sending out of the firewire port from the QAM tuner. Basically the TV is sending out the entire DTV stream (all subchannels) to the firewire port rather than the single tuned subchannel as it should. For QAM256 signals (which the tuner obviously understands) this means data rates in excess of 39Mbps... higher than DVHS supported rates. It wouldn't be so bad if Mitsubishi didn't claim that there own DVCR and this set are compatible, but they are not.
Nice to hear you're still trying to get this resolved, but I remain somewhat pessimistic, mainly because nobody has reported hearing much from Mits regarding the issue, especially lately. I really wish someone from Mits was reading these threads and could shed some light on the status (i.e. are they actively working on a solution?).

Also, I remembered reading some time ago that you were not able to acquire from your cable company a cable box (Motorola) with an active firewire port. Anything changed since then?

I gave up with the cable box... I mean I can record OTA just fine so I'll live with it, but everything indicates I should be able to record from the QAM tuner... I believe even the newer Mistubishi sets are able to do this so why these can't makes no sense... The demuxed channel is being fed to the video display. This demuxed stream needs to be repackaged and sent out over firewire rather than what is being sent out currently.

I there any way to prevent dust from getting inside the TV?

Starting yesterday I stopped getting sound on all of my OTA digital channels. I thought someone might have messed with some settings so I reset everything and still nothing. I get sound to come through on non-digital channels though. Any ideas??

Starting yesterday I stopped getting sound on all of my OTA digital channels. I thought someone might have messed with some settings so I reset everything and still nothing. I get sound to come through on non-digital channels though. Any ideas??
Are you using the audio in the set or an external audio system?

cAN SOMEONE TELL ME OR POINT ME TOWARDS HOW To adjust the vertical alignment ?


Thanks

cAN SOMEONE TELL ME OR POINT ME TOWARDS HOW To adjust the vertical alignment ?

Thanks
The following info was taken from this forum on this or a similar thread;
To enter the service menu, press the TV MENU button to access the menu. Then key in the remote 2 - 4 - 5 - 7 . That brings up the service menu. Use the AUDIO button to page through the submenu items and use the VIDEO button to access the various settings under each of the submenus. Use the UP/DOWN adjustments to adjust the values and use ENTER/OK to write them to the EEPROM. The menu letters turning red indicates that the values have been written. To exit the menu, hit the HOME key. If you exit the menu without pressing ENTER/OK, the values will not be saved. To access the built in test patterns, press the REW and FF keys on the remote to cycle through them. There are two test patterns that allow you to measure overscan as well as a few color patterns. Three patterns are grids with dots.

Format
Item #, Abbrev., Description, Data Range
1 HPOS Horizontal Position 0~255
2 VPOS Vertical Position *0~255
* Do Not set VPOS Data to 0 or 255 and press Enter.
(Video will be muted and On Screen Menus will no longer be visible.)

I am starting to have a problem that I'm hoping somebody can help me with. I've had the 52725 for about 6 months and just got my D* HD-DVR a week ago. I thought I had alot of green before (greens looking slightly florescent) but it was manageable and I was able to cure it with Avia. Then, on goes the HD receiver (hooked up by component) and I really had a green push problem.

I had my perfect color settings set to some suggested by this thread but the greens still were overwhelming and bright. When I went into perfect color and turned the green (or any color for that matter) down, nothing would happen. If you don't know what I'm talking about, pick up your remote, go into perfect color, and start turning any one of the colors down. The corresponding color bar on the pattern to the right will get darker and darker, eventually turning to black. Mine was not doing this, even though the number values for each individual bar was exactly where I had set it. It was as though it had defaulted to auto color (but auto color is not checked).

I was able to go into the settings and check the auto color box, then back all the way out of the menu, then go back in and uncheck the auto color box and go into perfect color. When I went through this series, perfect color then began working fine...until I shut off the tv. When I turned it back on this morning, same problem. I went in, checked auto, exited out, then went back in and unchecked auto and perfect color began working again.

Long explanation and I probably didn't do it justice but that's what's happening. I am using netcommand, so could it be something in the netcommand commands that defaults the tv on power up? BTW, this happens on all inputs but I only have to correct it on one input (say, satellite) and it will correct all inputs. Has anybody else had a problem like this? I did find that netcommand is telling my HD-DVR to go to a certain channel every thime I power the set on so I'm thinking the color problem might be because the colors were set where it is defaulting to when I set netcommand up.

Maybe I just need to cancel everything out of netcommand and do a reset on my tv and start over. Any other suggestions?

Are you using the audio in the set or an external audio system?

I just had to do a complete system reset on the TV and then the audio came back.

The following info was taken from this forum on this or a similar thread;
To enter the service menu, press the TV MENU button to access the menu. Then key in the remote 2 - 4 - 5 - 7 . That brings up the service menu. Use the AUDIO button to page through the submenu items and use the VIDEO button to access the various settings under each of the submenus. Use the UP/DOWN adjustments to adjust the values and use ENTER/OK to write them to the EEPROM. The menu letters turning red indicates that the values have been written. To exit the menu, hit the HOME key. If you exit the menu without pressing ENTER/OK, the values will not be saved. To access the built in test patterns, press the REW and FF keys on the remote to cycle through them. There are two test patterns that allow you to measure overscan as well as a few color patterns. Three patterns are grids with dots.

Format
Item #, Abbrev., Description, Data Range
1 HPOS Horizontal Position 0~255
2 VPOS Vertical Position *0~255
* Do Not set VPOS Data to 0 or 255 and press Enter.
(Video will be muted and On Screen Menus will no longer be visible.)

I know about that. However, I had a tech out about 6 months ago and there was soemthing that he had to turn manually on the tv. it was on the front after you take the case off but I dont know where . Was wondering if anyone did..

I know about that. However, I had a tech out about 6 months ago and there was soemthing that he had to turn manually on the tv. it was on the front after you take the case off but I dont know where . Was wondering if anyone did..

Keystone Adjustments shown in the attached picture.

Hey guys. I JUST got my WD52725. It was a return never used helluva deal. But I know it's outdated but have some questions about it.

1. My main concern is audio synch. When I'm watching anything either cable box/dvd player sometimes the audio is really out of synch. Even when I run the audio through my receiver. What's the fix on that?

2. Is there a firmware update I can get for it? I don't have the software version number here at work but it was manufactured in May 05. If there is an update, where do I go or call to get it?

3. And anyone know of any retailers that have the screen guard kit still for sale when you remove the screen?

thanks
chris

I've read about 30 pages of posts. Now that some of you have had this tv for a while, would you do it again? Care to summarize the good/bad?

I've read about 30 pages of posts. Now that some of you have had this tv for a while, would you do it again? Care to summarize the good/bad?

I still love my WD62725...with new options out there I can't say beyond all doubt that it is the exact purchase I would make today, but I have *no* regrets.....

PQ is still great, although I am anxious to see about cleaning my mirrors to see if that has any effect. Some here have commented that it really made a difference, even if they hadn't detected any degradation prior to cleaning them. I have had virtually no problems with it, and am still on the original firmware that it came with...I'm a firm believer in 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it'. I have not played with the HDMI, so I can't really comment on that part of it...component has worked fine for me.

Like I said, no regrets!


Good luck,
-Randy

First off, this forum has been very helpful to me and my TV. I purchased a 62725 a year ago and I love it. I can definitely attest to the cleaning of the mirrors. My picture quality has never looked better.

Now the issue is how do I keep the dust from entering the unit? Some people have suggested placing tape somewhere on or inside the unit. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

First off, this forum has been very helpful to me and my TV. I purchased a 62725 a year ago and I love it. I can definitely attest to the cleaning of the mirrors. My picture quality has never looked better.

Now the issue is how do I keep the dust from entering the unit? Some people have suggested placing tape somewhere on or inside the unit. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

There are posts with pictures somewhere in this monster thread. When you open up the unit to clean the mirror, you will see that there is an opening through which the lens comes into the mirror compartment. That opening is bigger than the lens and the space is filled with some black foam, which according to my tech has ALWAYS been loose whenever he works on one of these units. If you tape down that foam, it helps prevent dust from coming into the mirror compartment and, some think, also improves the picture by limiting entering/exiting light. (btw - even though I taped up the hole, a week after I cleaned my mirrors I had a big dust blotch again.)

I've read about 30 pages of posts. Now that some of you have had this tv for a while, would you do it again? Care to summarize the good/bad?

I've had the 52525 since July 2004 and have been satisfied with the purchase, 7500 hours on the original bulb.
I really like the picture quality and the Netcommand interface. The things I don't like are the poor performance of the HDMI interface and netcommand changing the tuner to channel 3 when powering up.

I've had the 52525 since July 2004 and have been satisfied with the purchase, 7500 hours on the original bulb.
I really like the picture quality and the Netcommand interface. The things I don't like are the poor performance of the HDMI interface and netcommand changing the tuner to channel 3 when powering up.

Wow. Are you sure about that 7500 hour figure? That is a LOT of hours. I watch a LOT of TV, I got mine in August 2004, and I only have about 3500 hours. A mistake I have seen before is that people add all of the numbers on the 2470 menu. The very first number (on the left) should be the total hours on the set.

I agree about this TV - I love my TV, but I wish it had a good HDMI connection. The changing to channel 3 is also irritating, but I can live with it. It seems like they should be able to fix this with a software update (and I don't understand the reason for this in the first place).

On another note, does anyone know how to get to diagnostics menus for the cablecard?

Thanks!

Wow. Are you sure about that 7500 hour figure? That is a LOT of hours. I watch a LOT of TV, I got mine in August 2004, and I only have about 3500 hours. A mistake I have seen before is that people add all of the numbers on the 2470 menu. The very first number (on the left) should be the total hours on the set.

I agree about this TV - I love my TV, but I wish it had a good HDMI connection. The changing to channel 3 is also irritating, but I can live with it. It seems like they should be able to fix this with a software update (and I don't understand the reason for this in the first place).

On another note, does anyone know how to get to diagnostics menus for the cablecard?

Thanks!

Yup, I'm sure about the hours. I've been watching it creep up. Many of the hours are from the wife leaving it on during the day. She does the same thing with bathroom and closet lights., the switches only go one-way.

The HDMI connection problem isn't just a Mitsubishi problem. I have a friend who has the same problem with a Panasonic plasma. The HDMI chip they used was probably the best available at the time.

The channel 3 thing must be a leftover from the VCR days when everyone had a VCR as a front end. This is the most fustrating problem because you know it would be an easy thing to fix. We need to stuff Mitsubishi's suggestion box!

Yup, I'm sure about the hours. I've been watching it creep up. Many of the hours are from the wife leaving it on during the day. She does the same thing with bathroom and closet lights., the switches only go one-way.

The HDMI connection problem isn't just a Mitsubishi problem. I have a friend who has the same problem with a Panasonic plasma. The HDMI chip they used was probably the best available at the time.

The channel 3 thing must be a leftover from the VCR days when everyone had a VCR as a front end. This is the most fustrating problem because you know it would be an easy thing to fix. We need to stuff Mitsubishi's suggestion box!


Well, that is impressive bulb life!

First off, this forum has been very helpful to me and my TV. I purchased a 62725 a year ago and I love it. I can definitely attest to the cleaning of the mirrors. My picture quality has never looked better.

Now the issue is how do I keep the dust from entering the unit? Some people have suggested placing tape somewhere on or inside the unit. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
One solution might be to reverse the direction of the fan on the lamp. I noticed on one that I serviced that it blows up over the lamp. This sends the heat into the set and the oils in the air likely get cooked by the lamp, ending up depositing a film on the mirror. I tried to discuss the matter with mits techs a couple of times, but they would not even consider anything that resembled an alteration to the original design.

I have seen a surprising amount of deposits on mirrors in lamp based RPTVs in general. It seems worse than on the CRT sets, and worse in some than others. I suspect the heat from the lamp has a lot to do with it.

I don't disagree with that assumption, but if you remove the screen on one of these TV's, you won't see much space for air to circulate into the space where the mirrors are enclosed. The unreliable foam block around the lens is the only one that I can remember off the top of my head.

It seems like sealing off this (and any other small areas where it is open to the chassis below) could help a lot.

On the other hand, it would be nice if the cooling fan for the lamp could pull the cool outside air in and over the lamp, and then duct it directly back out of the TV...

I just had my mirrors cleaned by the tech. (It was covered under the extended warrantee). What a change in the brightness on my WD-52715. I can't believe that there can be such a difference. We sure got used to looking at a much duller picture. I read the post about how to go about cleaning the mirrors before he got over, so, when he did the taking apart, I kinda new something about what to expect. He got the screen off and mentioned that the mirror was really dirty. He cleaned the small mirror in front of the lens and then proceeded to duct tape the foam seal around the lens. (Good Job, reporting this procedure in earlier posts) He said that Mits had an error in manufacturing this foam stuff and that every mirror cleaning he has done had the foam come loose on the right side of the lens. This lets dust through the opening and deposits the gunk right on the small mirror. But.......if you ever have to replace the light engine, you have to replace the tape as it is stuck to it.
I have one question for all of you. I know that it is probably answered somewhere in this post, but as long as I have your attention.......... The tech said that I have bulbs covered on my warrantee. He also said that I should get a replacment bulb now and then get another when the warrantee ( 5 year, actually 4 with the Manufacture 1 year) is about to expire. Now, I have 4493 hours on my original bulb. He said that if I replace the old bulb now, there will be a noticable brightness in the picture. The bulb is still burning, and there is no noticable crapping out that I can see. Should I replace the old bulb, or let the old one burn out?
Sorry about the long post, but when I get going I can't stop.
Thanks for the responses:

Lyle :)

In order to duct tape the foam seal around the lens, do I need to remove the screen or can I somehow access it from the front? I had a tech come out and clean the mirrors, so I am a little hesitant about removing the screen myself.

In order to duct tape the foam seal around the lens, do I need to remove the screen or can I somehow access it from the front? I had a tech come out and clean the mirrors, so I am a little hesitant about removing the screen myself.

Yes you have to take the screen off.

In order to duct tape the foam seal around the lens, do I need to remove the screen or can I somehow access it from the front? I had a tech come out and clean the mirrors, so I am a little hesitant about removing the screen myself.

When you had your mirrors cleaned, do you remember if he/she taped that opening? Mine said that he does it anytime he has to clean the mirrors. Says it's pretty common. If you want instructions, spiff72 has the instructions on an earlier post page. I learned that a little while ago.
Good luck:
Lyle

No, the tech didn't tape up anything. He knew about the dust getting on the mirror, but he didn't know about the tape trick. I had it cleaned a week ago and I can already see a dust spot back on the upper part of the screen. Very frustrating.

Ok, so I am ready to take the plunge. I read spiff 72's instructions on how to remove the screen and I have seen photos of the foam and lens area. Thanks in advance for eveyone's input!

My questions are:

1. What type of tape should I use (clear tape, silver duct tape?)
2. What exactly am I taping off? Do I just put a seal of tape around the foam where the lens is?

I've read about 30 pages of posts. Now that some of you have had this tv for a while, would you do it again? Care to summarize the good/bad?

Brego...

I got my 62725 in November of 2004. I'm still on the original bulb and this set gets a lot of use as my wife does granny day care for my grandson and they sometimes leave it on all morning 5 days a week. I would not hesitate to buy this set or brand again. I have both HD Cable and HD Satellite feeding it, plus DVD. I used Component cable for the Sat setup, and the cablecard. The picture is awesome, and I have not had a service issue, although my dealer upgraded the firmware about a year ago... probably not the latest. There are way too many good things about this set to even begin to list.

Gripes? Well my biggest one is that when I bought this set I thought it would have a built-in guide program as the promotional material stated. I don't like that with the cablecard I sometimes seem to lose some HD channels and then they come back the next day. I don't know if that's the set or the cable company, and since I can't make it do it on command... I can't show a tech. Generally speaking, I like the NetCommand, but find it a bit hairy to setup or change. For instance, try to change the brand of your DTV receiver from Sony to Samsung? Nope, can't do it because Mits has no provisions for Samsung DBS equipment. It'll work, but it won't work with the Mits remote unless maybe if you teach it.

My gripes are more with the control issues than the performance. I've seen a lot of large screen TVs and did my homework... I'll stack my picture up against anything.

Do you have any dust issues Iron Horse?

Has anybody had a problem connecting a mits DLP to computer? I cant seem to get it to display using the PC vga connection and an nvidia 7800 GTX vid card. I can get it to display with default vga drivers and it shows my WD-62525 as 5 "default monitors" . Somthings ^%$ed up. Used various drivers from nvidia. I read another post where somone had the same problem on his LCD monitor , and he said his LCDs "reed" or suspend switch was on. When he turned it off everything worked fine. Is there a similar switch on mits DLPs? Thanks

Bdono

Is there a thread for ISF picture tweaking for WD-62825. I have been searching here and can't find a thread!!!!! Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you

Ok, so I am ready to take the plunge. I read spiff 72's instructions on how to remove the screen and I have seen photos of the foam and lens area. Thanks in advance for eveyone's input!

My questions are:

1. What type of tape should I use (clear tape, silver duct tape?)
2. What exactly am I taping off? Do I just put a seal of tape around the foam where the lens is?

The tech who did my cleaning asked me if I had some regular Duct Tape, the grey stuff. I can't imagine that he couldn't carry around his own, but thats another story. I has used this stuff called "Nashua". It's really strong and sticks to almost anything. That's what I gave him to use. (I don't want it to come loose and have to do it all over again)
After he got the screen off and located the mirrors, he showed me the area around the lens that shows onto the small mirror on the bottom of the enclosure. There is an area that you can see around the lens that is open, with the afore mentioned foam stuff. This is the area where you can see the right side of the foam is not stuck and hanging toward the back of the TV. This is the place where he just taped around the lens to make a seal. He did come close to the lens itself.
Thats about it for how the taping goes. Good Luck:

Lyle

Has anybody had a problem connecting a mits DLP to computer? I cant seem to get it to display using the PC vga connection and an nvidia 7800 GTX vid card. I can get it to display with default vga drivers and it shows my WD-62525 as 5 "default monitors" . Somthings ^%$ed up. Used various drivers from nvidia. I read another post where somone had the same problem on his LCD monitor , and he said his LCDs "reed" or suspend switch was on. When he turned it off everything worked fine. Is there a similar switch on mits DLPs? Thanks

Bdono

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5774807&&#post5774807

these timings should work with your nvidia card. I am using the current drivers. 81.98's
These timings give 1x1 pixel mapping with just a bit of overscan

Hope it works. It works for mine on my 6800 card via vga into a 52725

I tried those Monitor timings and a bunch of others, still no display. I give up . Guess ill have to use VIVO with component for now.

thanks for the suggestions

Any WD62825 picture setting threads?

What exactly is the M-link control RS-232C connection on the back of the TV used for ? The diagram in the WD-xx525 manual has it hooked up to a PC. Is it another PC connection? Thanks

It's used to control components. If you know how to program computer code you can control the tv through a PC interface / controller. That's my understanding anyway.

wd-62825 thread? I cant find one using search!!!!!!!!!!!!!???????????????

I've read about 30 pages of posts. Now that some of you have had this tv for a while, would you do it again? Care to summarize the good/bad?

Brego, I got my 62725 in Sept of 2004. I am very pleased with its performance and have no regrets getting it over the Samsung I was considering at the time. I have 3738 hours on the bulb and have no noticeable dimming.I hope to get the 7500 hours I read about in another post that would be sweet. I had to have the mirrors cleaned shortly after buying, it had some large smudges. My set apparently came with its own dust.... actually looked like dust bunnies! :eek: But have not had any dust smudges return yet.

Im trying to get my HD-62525 hooked up to a PC and im having trouble connecting VIA the PC VGA port. All other inputs work fine with the PC .. HDMI and compnent. I think i found the problem with PC VGA in put on the HDTV. It displays the PCs Bootup and post screens , however when it gets into windows i lose the signal. I think it might be that the NVidia drivers detects the HDTV as using a digital connection when its not. I had the same problem when i connected my laptop , although the laptop has older drivers ( geForce4 GO GPU) which alowed me to change the connection tab , Digital or analog. I cant find a similar tab in the new nvidia drivers .. 81.98. Anybody have any ideas? If anyone is using the PC vga connection can you give me your setup. Thanks alot )

Im trying to get my HD-62525 hooked up to a PC and im having trouble connecting VIA the PC VGA port. All other inputs work fine with the PC .. HDMI and compnent. I think i found the problem with PC VGA in put on the HDTV. It displays the PCs Bootup and post screens , however when it gets into windows i lose the signal. I think it might be that the NVidia drivers detects the HDTV as using a digital connection when its not. I had the same problem when i connected my laptop , although the laptop has older drivers ( geForce4 GO GPU) which alowed me to change the connection tab , Digital or analog. I cant find a similar tab in the new nvidia drivers .. 81.98. Anybody have any ideas? If anyone is using the PC vga connection can you give me your setup. Thanks alot )


I had the same problem.
This seems to work:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=617697

I cleaned the mirror of my 52525 again two days ago. The small mirror was very dirty again. I also used a lens brush on the projector lens. At the same time, I did the bulb shake.

Wow, doing both of these at the same time gives an amazing difference in brightness. It is right back to new levels. I had to re-adjust the contrast and brightness because it changed so much.

This time, I used some duct tape to seal off the area around the bulb in hopes that it would keep the mirror from getting so dirty so quickly.

One more thing I noticed was that the button panel on the front of the TV gets a large amount of dust around the buttons. It is as if air is getting pulled through that spot. I wonder if using some weather-stripping on the screen to chassis connection would help that at all.

Also, does anyone have recommendations for cleaning the protective screen? I have a few plastic scuffs and finger prints on the protective screen that are getting annoying, particularly with the newfound brightness. I am afraid of scratching the thing, though.

I cleaned the mirror of my 52525 again two days ago. The small mirror was very dirty again. I also used a lens brush on the projector lens. At the same time, I did the bulb shake.

Wow, doing both of these at the same time gives an amazing difference in brightness. It is right back to new levels. I had to re-adjust the contrast and brightness because it changed so much.

This time, I used some duct tape to seal off the area around the bulb in hopes that it would keep the mirror from getting so dirty so quickly.

One more thing I noticed was that the button panel on the front of the TV gets a large amount of dust around the buttons. It is as if air is getting pulled through that spot. I wonder if using some weather-stripping on the screen to chassis connection would help that at all.

Also, does anyone have recommendations for cleaning the protective screen? I have a few plastic scuffs and finger prints on the protective screen that are
getting annoying, particularly with the newfound brightness. I am afraid of scratching the thing, though.

Shape, I use a drip-less spray of ammonia free windex type product with an lens cleaning absorbent soft cotton cloth. I have to clean my screen quite regularly as my great Dane /lab mix wants to inspect and sniff the animals he sees on Discovery HD channel. Have not had any problems cleaning that way.

"GO SEAHAWKS"!

Hello folks,
I have been trying to use the search function of the board to find enteries in this post for screen settings. I tried searching on "Magenta" becuase I figured it would not be in many posts except ones that show screen settings. I guess instead of trying to "borrow" others settings, I should just get one of the DVD's to do it myself. But, this is only good on the DVD connections. How should I go about setting the Cable TV input on the 527? If someone would be willing to post their settings again, I would love it. I have a DVD in component inputs and my Mot 6XXX cable box in a component input.

Hello folks,
I have been trying to use the search function of the board to find enteries in this post for screen settings. I tried searching on "Magenta" becuase I figured it would not be in many posts except ones that show screen settings. I guess instead of trying to "borrow" others settings, I should just get one of the DVD's to do it myself. But, this is only good on the DVD connections. How should I go about setting the Cable TV input on the 527? If someone would be willing to post their settings again, I would love it. I have a DVD in component inputs and my Mot 6XXX cable box in a component input.
Hi,
Here is a link to some settings that were posted quite sometime ago for the 725 series that you might find helpful...or not. I'm not sure if they apply directly to a 527 (unless that is a typo), or whether they are perfect for your environment, but maybe they'll at least be a starting point for you...

Link to umr's calibration post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4474573#post4474573)

Good luck!
-Randy

One last question, I can't find (quickly) the sequence to see how many hours are on the bulb. Can someone paste that or send a link?

One last question, I can't find (quickly) the sequence to see how many hours are on the bulb. Can someone paste that or send a link?

"TV Menu" button, followed by 2 - 4 - 7 - 0. "Home" button exits the menu.

Total hours on the set is the first number on the bottom line (on the left).

See this link:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6707650&&#post6707650

Another thing I have been trying to follow is the glare screen removal topic. I see several people talking about trim pieces, better picture, etc. None mention if they are talking about the 52525 or the 52725. I have the 725 and have pretty bad glare. I have only had the 725 for about 3 months now. Love the set. I am not a big fan of the remote or NC, but the set is great. HD via OTA is beautiful, HD over cable is great.

doesn't seem to be a lot of activity in this section. I will ask one more question though, but it might not belong here. This relates to the STB charter cable gives for HD (Motorola 6200). With this box, I have to choose 720P or 1080i. The moxi allowed to push whatever the broadcast was. Which should I choose? I have a 52725.

doesn't seem to be a lot of activity in this section. I will ask one more question though, but it might not belong here. This relates to the STB charter cable gives for HD (Motorola 6200). With this box, I have to choose 720P or 1080i. The moxi allowed to push whatever the broadcast was. Which should I choose? I have a 52725.

I will have to check my Moto cable box later when my tivo isn't recording off it, but I thought there was a pass-through option that acted like a native passthrough. These native passthrough modes can be slow to change channels though, since the TV has to change resolutions a lot.

I have my Sony DVR set for 1080i, though. Some would argue to use 720p, since it is a 720p TV. I think the TV does a very good job of scaling, though, and 1080i looked better to me on stations that are 1080i native.

Another thing I have been trying to follow is the glare screen removal topic. I see several people talking about trim pieces, better picture, etc. None mention if they are talking about the 52525 or the 52725. I have the 725 and have pretty bad glare. I have only had the 725 for about 3 months now. Love the set. I am not a big fan of the remote or NC, but the set is great. HD via OTA is beautiful, HD over cable is great.

I think the glare issue is true for all the series, even the 825. There are instructions in the manual for removing the glare screen. Give it a try and see if you like it better w/o the screen on.

ANyone have any recemedations? I have had a tech out 6 times to adjust the vertical alignment. He can only have the top of the pic level or the bottom but not both. Its ok to watc huntil you are watching a dvd that isnt full wide screen. then you can tell the pic is tilited. ANy ideas on what to do

If it is tilted but straight, it can be corrected. If it is curved, it may not be able to be corrected. A tilt that is different at the top and bottom or left and right is keystone and can be adjusted. A tilt that is the same on the top and bottom or left and right is just a tilt and that can be corrected, too. A curved line is due to the screen bowing and may be helped by playing with the mounting of the screen in the frame, but sometimes you can't get it out.

ANyone have any recemedations? I have had a tech out 6 times to adjust the vertical alignment. He can only have the top of the pic level or the bottom but not both. Its ok to watc huntil you are watching a dvd that isnt full wide screen. then you can tell the pic is tilited. ANy ideas on what to do
This sounds similar to what I had when I first got my set. I could not get the upper line perfectly horizontal without the bottom line tilting. What I ended up doing was squaring the vertical and horizontal lines of the TV's internal test pattern to each other using the front keystone adjustments and a tape measure. The resulting test image was heavily tilted to one side, but was perfectly rectangular. I then turned the light engine rotational adjustment screw located inside the TV until the rectangular image was perfectly level. I left more detailed instructions of this procedure somewhere in the first half of this thread. Bottom line is....if you can square the image off using the front keystone adjustments, the resulting tilted image can be leveled off using the internal rotational screw. Good luck.

How do you clean dust off of the DLP chip?

How do you clean dust off of the DLP chip?
What makes you think you have dust on the chip?

I don't know if this would be a do-it-yourself project like cleaning the mirrors.

Most DLP HDTV cabinets allow dust to get on the DLP that can impact the picture. Has anyone else cleaned it?

Most DLP HDTV cabinets allow dust to get on the DLP that can impact the picture. Has anyone else cleaned it?

That is news to me...are you sure you aren't thinking of dust on the mirrors? That has been widely discussed in this thread.

I'm in the business, see my sig...many DLP's have a note in their manual

I am planning to get a new receiver to compliment my 52725 Mits. The Yamaha RX-V2600 sounds good on paper: has delacing conversion and will up-scale to HDMI or component. Has anyone had any experience with this receiver? Or have knowledge about its compatibility with xx725s. I'm not stuck on the receiver but I do like the conversion/scaling capabilities. I also want to stay below/at about a $1000

I like the Denon AVR-3806 if you haven't checked it out yet. Had a yamaha before and like it too but it didn't have some of the tweaks really needed that the denon had. Don't know about the new yamaha's.

I am planning to get a new receiver to compliment my 52725 Mits. The Yamaha RX-V2600 sounds good on paper: has delacing conversion and will up-scale to HDMI or component. Has anyone had any experience with this receiver? Or have knowledge about its compatibility with xx725s. I'm not stuck on the receiver but I do like the conversion/scaling capabilities. I also want to stay below/at about a $1000

Sorry, I don't have that receiver, but here are some things to consider. Posters on this thread seem to agree that the Mits does a digital-analog-digital conversion of HDMI signals. Generally, people (myself included) find HDMI signals from the same source to be have less detail, color and black level than from a component connection on the Mits. Of course, the comparison of the Yamaha's upconversion and scaling compared with the Mits' can only come from someone who has fiddled with the two connected.

Online, check it out here (http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=10047644) . They must have bought all the remaining 3805's, since it's been replaced by 3806.

Well, it is truly a sad sad day.

My TV was acting odd about 6 months ago where it would lose all of my digital channels about once a week. Someone on here suggested that it was the firmware so I contacted mitsubishi to get the flash card update...

I got the update in the mail and flashed the TV (wd52725). Ever since then, about once a month, the TV would get a "white screen of death". Almost like a white screen with a herringbone pattern in the background. Sometimes it goes away and then the picture rulls and flickers, other times it wont go away and I have to hold reset for like 5 seconds to clear it out. Once the TV resets, it acts fine again, but then it happens again. Lately it's been happening every three or four days.

Anyone have any idea what can cause the "white screen of death" ? It only ever occurs at startup, but once it occurs, I cant even get the menu to come up and the tv requires a reset. Sometimes the reset causes the light to flash rapidly for upwards of 3 to 5 minutes before it resets...

This makes me SO sad...

What firmware version do you have (look in the setup menu if you don't know)? Does this happen with all inputs or just on the tuner? Do the menus look normal when this happens? Are you sure about the 3-5 minutes to reset? Normally it should be 60 to 90 seconds.

I believe the firmware is version 05.

I don't know if it does it on all inputs. I have only had it happen when I start the TV on the PC input. I hope it doesnt have something to do with leaving the PC on and connected to it while the TV is off. I also wonder if a fan could be blown out on some part of the circuitry. I also think it's odd that the problem "goes away" after a reset. The TV is out of warranty and I can't play the wait for a tech to come between 7 and 7 game because I work full time and can't take off to have a tech come out and look at it. Not to mention it only does it every few days so I would have to wait till it does it and then leave it in "screwed up mode" until a tech could come and look at it. I suppose I could take pictures of it and email them to Mitsubishi or something. The way i figure it, it has to be the board that converts the video signal (unless there are like 4 boards that do that or something). This TV has really never been 100% since I got it. Pixels out a few sposts and dirty dirty finger prints all over everything. Not to mention any 1080i games I would play on my xbox would look "shakey", and when I would play any old laser disc movies on it and use expand mode, the screen always had a bit of "jitter in it".

The Menus aren't visible when it goes to the white screen of death. On some other occations I have seen the TV have a red screen, then a green screen, then a black screen with scattered single red green and blue pixels, also with no menu visible regardsless of how you try to access the menu.

Yes I am sure about it taking 5 minutes because I got into an argument with somone on the phone about it , who I was trying to walk through the reset process so they could watch my TV while I was out (I told them "it can't be taking that long to reset, it only takes about a minute, and sure enough it took about 4 and a half minutes).

Not enough info to determine where the problem is, but I would suspect the DM module or the FMT board, just as guesses. First thing I would do is look for a bad connection, making sure all connectors are seated well. Next I would reload the firmware.

If you had a fan problem you would see the set shut down.

Try starting the set in some other mode and see if it ever does it.

Good idea about turning it on in another mode. I am going to try always turning it on and off in tuner mode from now on...

Im not sure what those two boards are, but are they expensive? Will mitsu send them to me or do they only sell parts to qualified techs? I see no point in paying someone to install parts for me.

I will have to check for loose connections tomorrow. The only thing with the PC cable is I had to pull pin 12 on the VGA cable going to the TV so that it would not see the TV as a digital monitor (if you pull 12 if sees it as analog). I wonder if that has something to do with it??

As for reloading the firmware, I have a "saved" copy of it, BUT, there was one file that woulnd't "back up". I think it was just a file that cataloged the file system of the flash card though...

If i were to reflash the TV, what size CF card should I buy, or can you put the files onto a smart media card? Are there newer versions of firmware out for the TV, and is there a guide anywhere to re-flashing with the same rev OS? I know when mitsu send the CF card out, they had instructions with it, which i do not have any more...

I just put in the new 4.05 firmware, what exactly is it suppose to fix, I had a problem with the tv not coming on ( no picture) , and having to reset it......... now I swear my picture is worse......... never thought it was great, except hd looked pretty decent...... I think the firmware must have done something to my set, and I'm not to happy about it...anyone else had this happen or heard of this happening ?

I want my old picture back ! It wasnt this bad, my digital signals look almost like analog ! So someone please post what the new firmware does........

thanks for any help...... I need mitsu to step up and fix this...

Talk to Mitsubishi. Talk to your dealer. Talk to the local ASC who does their warranty work. If you want them to fix it, try communicating the problem and do so in more detail. "my picture looks bad" is hardly enough info to do any troublehooting. I have done several firmware upgrades and never had a client complain of a difference in the pix. There is lilely something else going on.

I just put in the new 4.05 firmware, what exactly is it suppose to fix, I had a problem with the tv not coming on ( no picture) , and having to reset it......... now I swear my picture is worse......... never thought it was great, except hd looked pretty decent...... I think the firmware must have done something to my set, and I'm not to happy about it...anyone else had this happen or heard of this happening ?

I want my old picture back ! It wasnt this bad, my digital signals look almost like analog ! So someone please post what the new firmware does........

thanks for any help...... I need mitsu to step up and fix this...

My memory gets more messed up as each day passes but I seem to recall the main fix was for a TV lockup problem when the tuner switched from analog to digital. You may want to check your settings (color, contrast, etc.) since I can't recall if the firmware upgrade changes all those back to the default settings. Lastly, I have had no dissatisfaction with picture quality from day one until I read about cleaning dust off the internal mirror. That build up was gradual and not noticiable until I saw the difference cleaning made.

I'm not sure what happened, It looks like my source signal has gone down. You know how analog looks just ok, on these tv's, well my digital cable channels now have a poorer picture quality. Everything looks like it took a step backwards. I have messed with all the settings, and even used a cd disc to play test patterns, and set up the tv with that. Still I don't like the picture. I even called the cable company to find out if they had been in the local cable housing ( it sits in my yard) and they haven't done anything.

I guess it seems like my whole signal just got weaker, and i have more background noise and less sharpness. Even the clarity of the HD seems off. Maybe my tv isn't doing whatever it does to make the 720p resolution ???

thanks for anymore info someone might have aval.

Tim

I now have a little over 4000 hours on the first lamp (purchased in Nov 2004) and have not had any problems with the picture. I took the lamp out and shook it when the lamp was at 3900 hours to redistribute the mercury as was previously posted here.

But now that I hit 4000 hours I am getting the yellow light and on screen warning to replace the lamp. Is there any need to do so since I am not having any problems with the picture? If I should wait, is there any way to reset the indicator light and warning message without resetting the hour counter?

Also, when the lamp actually starts to go bad will it give certain signs or will it just die one day and leave me scrambling to buy a new one (i'd rather not spend the money right now to keep one on hand unless it is really necessary).

Last question, anyone else have the Tweeter extended warranty? They tell me that the bulb is not covered but I had thought it was.

I now have a little over 4000 hours on the first lamp (purchased in Nov 2004) and have not had any problems with the picture. I took the lamp out and shook it when the lamp was at 3900 hours to redistribute the mercury as was previously posted here.

But now that I hit 4000 hours I am getting the yellow light and on screen warning to replace the lamp. Is there any need to do so since I am not having any problems with the picture? If I should wait, is there any way to reset the indicator light and warning message without resetting the hour counter?

Also, when the lamp actually starts to go bad will it give certain signs or will it just die one day and leave me scrambling to buy a new one (i'd rather not spend the money right now to keep one on hand unless it is really necessary).

Last question, anyone else have the Tweeter extended warranty? They tell me that the bulb is not covered but I had thought it was.


Oh, they tell you that it's covered to get you to buy the extended warranty, then when the bulb dies and it's time to replace it, they tell you that it's not covered. Don't feel bad though, Best Buy does that too...

Oh, they tell you that it's covered to get you to buy the extended warranty, then when the bulb dies and it's time to replace it, they tell you that it's not covered. Don't feel bad though, Best Buy does that too...


Hmmm- I'll have to read the fine print on my BB extended warranty. They told me that they cover them, also.

I now have a little over 4000 hours on the first lamp (purchased in Nov 2004) and have not had any problems with the picture. I took the lamp out and shook it when the lamp was at 3900 hours to redistribute the mercury as was previously posted here.

But now that I hit 4000 hours I am getting the yellow light and on screen warning to replace the lamp. Is there any need to do so since I am not having any problems with the picture? If I should wait, is there any way to reset the indicator light and warning message without resetting the hour counter?

Also, when the lamp actually starts to go bad will it give certain signs or will it just die one day and leave me scrambling to buy a new one (i'd rather not spend the money right now to keep one on hand unless it is really necessary).

Last question, anyone else have the Tweeter extended warranty? They tell me that the bulb is not covered but I had thought it was.

I recently replaced my original bulb which had over 8000 hours on it before it finally gave up. The yellow warning light came on at the 4000 hour mark it didn't bother me that much. You could always say you have replaced the bulb and use the second counter to count the 'extra' hours on the bulb.

FWIW, I did notice a decrease in brightness over the last ~300 hours of the bulb's life. When it did finally go, I called Mitsubishi and they shipped me a new one in 2 days.

I have no input on the extended warranty, never get them for electronic equipment.

I know it is generally accepted that the analog HD inputs to the xx725 sets produce a better image (less noise, better blacks, etc.) than HDMI. But has anyone compared Component video (YPbPr) to RGB-HV, both on INPUT-DTV @ 720p? Does anyone know if one or the other bypasses any internal colorspace conversion, or clearly looks better than the other?

I have an iScan VP30 and a 5-element cable that I'm going to run from the VP30's analog RGB-HV output to the Mits' INPUT-DTV, but I can always dangle the other two cables and set my output to YPbPr if that's better.

Any help is appreciated!

-John

According to the block diagram it appears to A/D convert it then it goes into the signal select circuit at the same point as the OSD, which is after most of the processing, just before the signal leaves the FMT board to the light engine.

Leonard,

Does the block diagram or service manual indicate anything about colorspace conversions, etc.?

-John

No, neither the training manual nor the service manual has any detail beyond what I described. What is it that you want to know, exactly?

I'm probably back a several pages, but it sounds like the HDMI input on the xx725 is of little real value other then bragging rights since the analog inputs result in better PQ. Is this essentially true? If so is there any reason to buy/use DVD players or AVRs that have HDMI outputs?

I'm probably back a several pages, but it sounds like the HDMI input on the xx725 is of little real value other then bragging rights since the analog inputs result in better PQ. Is this essentially true? If so is there any reason to buy/use DVD players or AVRs that have HDMI outputs?

That's the way I see it. I don't count the HDMI input as useful at all.

It is helpful as an extra HD input. I need them all.

So my tv is continuing to lock up with the odd herringbone pattern. When this happens, no picture is visible. So far it has only been happening in "PC" mode. I did a little more trouble shooting today with it. It seems that the menus do indeed work, you just cannot "see them" due to the picture being all screwed up. I know they work because the volume up and down works and also you can change device input through the remote, just cant SEE the menus LoL.

I took a few pictures if anyone is interested in taking a look, does anyone know what the boards go for if I need to order them and replace them? Does anyone know if Mitsu extends the warranty a year from the day they give you the firware update? I have not had this problem until i updated to 05 a few months ago...

Also, I have a copy of the firmware update, but I dont have the instructions any more. Can i just plop the copy of the updates onto a CF card and apply them or is it a special file system on the card that I can't duplicate. Maybe I should try downgrading since I didn't have any problems before the update (except I dont have the downgrade and still dont know if i need a special fle system or not).

Like I said, if anyone is interested I will post pictures of this extrememly odd herringbone pattern...

This makes me so sad...

I just bought the 52725.... i'm excited about it but nervous because of the tilt issue... anyone seen it yet? I actually saw it in the store, but went ahead and bought it.... it really isn't that bad (I guess).

I'm concerned how easy it is to fix it....

Also, does anyone know if problems in 525 have been resolved in 725? Such as Reset problem, and audio/video synch?
yes! the tilt problem can be corrected there is a thumbscrew that has to be turned with a 4mm allen wrench behind the front panel. this requires you to take the speaker grilles off and unscrewing the besel. horizontal adjustment is the right side thumbscrew. you can go into the "submenu" and make corrections with horizontal and vertical as well.

here is my stand guy's. I got it from an online store received it in 3 working days.

So my tv is continuing to lock up with the odd herringbone pattern. When this happens, no picture is visible. So far it has only been happening in "PC" mode. I did a little more trouble shooting today with it. It seems that the menus do indeed work, you just cannot "see them" due to the picture being all screwed up. I know they work because the volume up and down works and also you can change device input through the remote, just cant SEE the menus LoL.

I took a few pictures if anyone is interested in taking a look, does anyone know what the boards go for if I need to order them and replace them? Does anyone know if Mitsu extends the warranty a year from the day they give you the firware update? I have not had this problem until i updated to 05 a few months ago...

Also, I have a copy of the firmware update, but I dont have the instructions any more. Can i just plop the copy of the updates onto a CF card and apply them or is it a special file system on the card that I can't duplicate. Maybe I should try downgrading since I didn't have any problems before the update (except I dont have the downgrade and still dont know if i need a special fle system or not).

Like I said, if anyone is interested I will post pictures of this extrememly odd herringbone pattern...

This makes me so sad...
I feel for you Rezolution. My 52525 died for good last week and I've been having trouble finding someone to fix it. For the past couple of months it would reset itself intermittently. Now it resets itself constantly. Even if it's turned off but plugged in, it will reset itself, with the timer light doing a fast blink. It now sits here unplugged. I thought it might be a fan failure, but it resets itself too soon after a cold start for it to be temperature related. I might try reloading the latest firmware into it (currently v4), but I'm afraid it will reset itself in the middle of the upgrade and cause further damage.

It's out of factory warranty, but I had bought an extended warranty. Problem is there is no factory service office here, and only a couple of independents that fix these sets. Extended warranty people say that it's my duty to find someone locally to fix it and put them in contact with each other. Problem is, despite 6 calls to his office, I have not received a callback from the recommended service guy (recommended by the guy who sold me the set). It seems he is too busy or not interested in doing warranty work. I'm gonna call the other guy Monday. Hopefully I get a response from him because I'm out of options.

Despite the problem with the firewire output, I like(d) this set very much. But given this relatively early failure and the difficulty in getting it serviced, I think I may have made a mistake in purchasing it.

I feel for you Rezolution. My 52525 died for good last week and I've been having trouble finding someone to fix it. For the past couple of months it would reset itself intermittently. Now it resets itself constantly. Even if it's turned off but plugged in, it will reset itself, with the timer light doing a fast blink. It now sits here unplugged. I thought it might be a fan failure, but it resets itself too soon after a cold start for it to be temperature related. I might try reloading the latest firmware into it (currently v4), but I'm afraid it will reset itself in the middle of the upgrade and cause further damage.

It's out of factory warranty, but I had bought an extended warranty. Problem is there is no factory service office here, and only a couple of independents that fix these sets. Extended warranty people say that it's my duty to find someone locally to fix it and put them in contact with each other. Problem is, despite 6 calls to his office, I have not received a callback from the recommended service guy (recommended by the guy who sold me the set). It seems he is too busy or not interested in doing warranty work. I'm gonna call the other guy Monday. Hopefully I get a response from him because I'm out of options.

Despite the problem with the firewire output, I like(d) this set very much. But given this relatively early failure and the difficulty in getting it serviced, I think I may have made a mistake in purchasing it.


I feel like I made a mistake buying it too. Had I known in the store that the fans run "all the time", I would have said "what moron engineered this thing"? I mean seriously, how does a company let a product out the door that has to have fans running even when the unit is off, no seriously, what the HELL were they thinking?

Anyway. I had to return the initial set that I got from Tweeter about 4 times till i got one without a "bright spot" in it and the one I have now still has oily mexican burrito finger smudges all over the inside of it. Not to mention that the fan(s) are constantly sucking more and more dirt inside of the set on a daily basis.

What I suppose I should be entitled to do for the $4000 i spent on the set (which I am still paying for a on a monthly basis, three more payments to go) is to slap the freaking crap out of the people that engineered the set for a minimum of, oh i dunno, 10 minutes.

Rezolution:

I can't say I understand why (other than a partnership w/ the electric supply companies and a desire to sell more replacements) electronic manufacturers don't design stuff to completely shut off these days. It is more common than you appearently realize. Mits is not the only one doing this, and its not only on TV's. I have seen this on Sat receivers, DVD/PVR recorders, PC's, and external hard drives. Now that's a good idea. Lets keep those hard drives spinning all the time!

Anyway, have you called Mits Customer Support yet? What did they say?

Hang in there and best of luck to you.

IIRC, the reason the set is always running at some level or another has to do with the CableCard interface, which I think has to remain powered up...??

I could swear I read that on this or another thread at some point...there's only a few discussions out here on AVS, after all.

:)

Good luck on the repairs!

-John

IIRC, the reason the set is always running at some level or another has to do with the CableCard interface, which I think has to remain powered up...??

I could swear I read that on this or another thread at some point...there's only a few discussions out here on AVS, after all.

:)

Good luck on the repairs!

-John

So even if the interface for the cable card has to remain powered up, I refuse to believe that there isn't a way for the unit to run cool enough that it doesn't require a fan to be running at all times... What if something happened and the fan turned off and it coulnd't sense that the fan turned off because something was malfunctioning (much like my video boards)?? Can anyone say FIRE HAZZARD!

Rez,

Actually "fire hazard" would be defined as the JVC LCoS RPTV I had immediately prior to the Mits, which was actually recalled due to its tendency to ignite. No kidding!!

:eek:

Seriously, though, the always-on fans have never really bothered me from a noise perspective. They really are quite quiet compared to the powered-on ones, after all.

But I do see your point. That's why most mfgs. put in some kind of fan-failure sensor for that very reason, so you don't cook your CPU/GPU/ASIC when the fan dies. Always better to replace a faulty fan than de-solder a SMT chip or swap a whole burnt board.

As an aside, I actully have my Mits on an inexpensive UPS for a related reason -- if the power goes out I want to make sure I can (quickly) power off the set so the bulb can cool off gracefully. This has already happened a few times since I got it, so I feel justified in my less-than-$100 investment.

-John

I think the glare issue is true for all the series, even the 825. There are instructions in the manual for removing the glare screen. Give it a try and see if you like it better w/o the screen on.

I have the xx825 and the glare isn't an issue unless it is a sunny afternoon with the blinds open.

I will say this...I chose the Mitsubishi partly because of the screen. I was worried what my daughter might do to an unprotected surface. Now that she is 11 months old, I can say that I am reallly happy to have the protective screen. :)

One solution might be to reverse the direction of the fan on the lamp. I noticed on one that I serviced that it blows up over the lamp. This sends the heat into the set and the oils in the air likely get cooked by the lamp, ending up depositing a film on the mirror. I tried to discuss the matter with mits techs a couple of times, but they would not even consider anything that resembled an alteration to the original design.

Although dust accumulation seems like a real issue, I would be very hesitant to modify anything. Without thorough testing, it would be difficult to be confident about any long-term implications.

On another note, I just had a technician come out to look at my 52825 because I noticed some tilt on the screen. I also noticed the keystone setting needed to be adjusted. When the technician used a test pattern I was surprised how far everything was off. Since I also noticed the some splotches on one of the white test patterns, the tech realized the mirrors needed cleaned.

Anyway, the technician didn't allocate enough time for the visit today, so he will come back out next week. I purchased my TV in August 05' and have been happy overall. I am especially happy that I bought my TV locally @ Tweeter, since they have their own technicians that seem very well qualified.

Ok my 16 month old 62725 acted strang tonight. I had just switched from sat input which I use about 98% of the time to my OTA input. After about 20 minutes the screen when totally blue and then the TV shut itself off. After the quickly blinding green light went off, I turned the TV back on and all was fine for about 10 minutes when the blue screen and power off thing happened again. This time I just left it off.

Anyone have this happen or heard of these symptoms before?

Ok my 16 month old 62725 acted strang tonight. I had just switched from sat input which I use about 98% of the time to my OTA input. After about 20 minutes the screen when totally blue and then the TV shut itself off. After the quickly blinding green light went off, I turned the TV back on and all was fine for about 10 minutes when the blue screen and power off thing happened again. This time I just left it off.

Anyone have this happen or heard of these symptoms before?
Except for the totally blue screen (mine goes candystripe) that sounds identical to what I'm experiencing. Still trying to get it fixed.

so, anyone around here have a pronto 2000 CFF for the WD-52725. I have done a search of AVS, remote central, and google and can not find one. If not, I guess I will have to do it myself and post it on remotecentral......

I realize that this thread is miles long and the answer is probably somewhere over the rainbow, but, here's my issue. My wife turned on our 52725 yesterday, and while she was watching it the screen just went to the "herringbone, little rectanglular blocks, green tint alternating with black" screen. Nothing works, nothing. I tried to reset from the front. It goes through the flashing green light, then when it should boot up, nothing, it just stops. I tried to so a hard reset by unplugging from the APC and then plugging back in. Nothing, it does the same thing. I can't get anything to work on the remote or the front panel. Has this happened to anybody lately? Just when we were going to try to order the New Dish reciever, this happens. Please, I would appreciate any responses, as I am just about at the end of my rope,.............just kidding.
Thanks:
Lyle

"I tried to reset from the front. It goes through the flashing green light, then when it should boot up, nothing, it just stops. I tried to so a hard reset by unplugging from the APC and then plugging back in. Nothing, it does the same thing. I can't get anything to work on the remote or the front panel."

Do you have a cablecard installed? I think this may have happened to me once. I had to remove the cablecard and reinstall, in combination with the hard reset.

Good Luck!

Overall I am happy with my tv, but one thing still annoys me. I have a cablecard installed.

Sometimes (at least once every evening, sometimes more often) when I switch from a lower channel to a higher channel (usually digital) it will go blank, stall, or lockup. The only way to avoid this is to go to another channel and then go back. Sometimes I need to go through a few channels before I can eventually get to where I want. Very frustrating! Usually by the time I get it to work, I missed whatever I was trying to watch.

Yes I am a channel flipper! :D So here is my question:

- The technician for tweeter said he has seen this many times, and that it is the TV trying to lock into a signal. He said that it is either a weak signal or a bad cablecard. He said that he has seen it take up to five cablecards to get it right since there can be compatibility issues.

- The cable company just came out this week and claims the signal is plenty strong and that the cablecard is fine (they did exchange it at least once early on).

Who should I be complaining to? Is there a consensus on what is causing the problem, or should I just give up on the cablecard?

"I tried to reset from the front. It goes through the flashing green light, then when it should boot up, nothing, it just stops. I tried to so a hard reset by unplugging from the APC and then plugging back in. Nothing, it does the same thing. I can't get anything to work on the remote or the front panel."

Do you have a cablecard installed? I think this may have happened to me once. I had to remove the cablecard and reinstall, in combination with the hard reset.

Good Luck!
No, I don't have a cablecard installed. Just E* as my satellite provider. This has me really stumped. Any more help will be appreciated.
Thanks:
Lyle

Overall I am happy with my tv, but one thing still annoys me. I have a cablecard installed.

Sometimes (at least once every evening, sometimes more often) when I switch from a lower channel to a higher channel (usually digital) it will go blank, stall, or lockup. The only way to avoid this is to go to another channel and then go back. Sometimes I need to go through a few channels before I can eventually get to where I want. Very frustrating! Usually by the time I get it to work, I missed whatever I was trying to watch.
Make sure you have the latest firmware installed in your set (v4.05) as it's suppose to fix issues with Cablecard. I experienced this at times when I had a Cablecard, but I only had v4.04 at the time.