Contact Mitsubishi customer relations and ask them if they can have their engineering people contact your cable company to coordinate figuring out the problem. Contact your cable provider and ask them to do the same.

It took a couple of months of playing the middleman here to get them to work it out, and it turned out the cable provider needed to upgrade their software. You should verify that your set has the most recent Mits firmware, as was suggested.

Do you guys think this problem can happen without a cable card? Mine sure acts like whats going on with the cablecard issue, but without any cable card. I can't find out what software version I have as I can't access anything on the screen. I think that there have been 2 versions since I had the software updated. I had a problem when I got it in Sept. 2004. They sent out a software update then and it was ".003". Since then I have had the light engine replaced in February 2005, and had the mirrors cleaned this last January. Any more suggestions. I have a tech coming out on Tuesday to check it out, so if I don't have any more replys, I will post what he finds out Tuesday. Thanks:
Lyle

I finally took some photos of my problem. Does any of these look familiar to anybody? Like I said, I will have a tech over Tuesday to survey the set. Will post results then. Until he comes over, any observations will be appreciated. Thanks:
Lyle

I finally took some photos of my problem. Does any of these look familiar to anybody? Like I said, I will have a tech over Tuesday to survey the set. Will post results then. Until he comes over, any observations will be appreciated. Thanks:
Lyle

My first guess would be the FMT board, but we have seen so few failures in these sets I can't claim a lot of experience with troubleshooting them.

I don't know if this is the right place, but I have been looking for the direct access codes for the 52725's remote control. Plus any discrete codes for on/off. Anybody have a look to a good location for this. I have look all over....

I don't know if this is the right place, but I have been looking for the direct access codes for the 52725's remote control. Plus any discrete codes for on/off. Anybody have a look to a good location for this. I have look all over....


I can't recall where I saw it, but I thought there was an undocumented mode that the remote could be placed into, and it allows you to output the discrete codes for power on/pwer off and direct switching to inputs.

I can't recall where I saw it, but I thought there was an undocumented mode that the remote could be placed into, and it allows you to output the discrete codes for power on/pwer off and direct switching to inputs.

Try this:

Copied this from a link a while back, I have ner tried this so let me know how it works.

1.Set the Layer Switch at the top of the Mitsubishi Remote to TV.

2.Press and hold the POWER button, and while holding the power button enter 090.

3.Now the remote should function like this:

Power = Power On Discreet
Stop = Power Off Discreet
Pause = AV Reset

Pressing INPUT followed by:
PIP = DTV
1 = Input 1
2 = Input 2
3 = Input 3
4 = Input 4
5 = DVD / Component 1
6 = Component 2
SQV = Input STB
QV = Input VGA
PIP CH Up = Antenna A
PIP CH Down = Antenna B

4.When done, press and hold the POWER button and enter code 000 to return to the standard remote functions

I contacted Mitsu and they are faxing me the latest "process" to accomplish it. As soon as I get it, I will post for anyone else that needs it.

My first guess would be the FMT board, but we have seen so few failures in these sets I can't claim a lot of experience with troubleshooting them.

Just got off the phone with the Tech that was coming over on Tuesday. With the pictures that I posted he was able to get in touch with Mits Tech. Department and they confirmed that it probably is the FMT board. My guy said that they will have to order the board from Mits. and probably won't be able to get to it until next week at the earliest. So here we go watching the 19 inch until then. Thanks for the infomation and the good eye. I will post when he gets the work done. With this info. he said that he probably won't have to make 2 or more trips to the house.
Thanks again:
Lyle

I contacted Mitsu and they are faxing me the latest "process" to accomplish it. As soon as I get it, I will post for anyone else that needs it.
Did you not see the post right above yours?

I just tried it - it works perfectly. When it talks about pressing "input" followed by another key, use the device button (either device up or device down will work).

ok, cool. I had an email into them from earlier and they just replied to it. That's all.....

Now to figure out how to program the pronto.............

Hi Guys, I own a Mits 52725. Is that true, i don't need to rent a hdtv box from comcast to watch channels with HD? Thanks

Hi Guys, I own a Mits 52725. Is that true, i don't need to rent a hdtv box from comcast to watch channels with HD? Thanks
many locals cable companies do pass the local hd stations that they carry and have agreements with, along in unscrambled QAM.

usually the pay tier hd channels such as showtime, HBO TNT etc...are scrambled and you would need their stb or cablecard.

WOW, what a difference cleaning the mirror and lens makes. I was a little sceptical on whether or not it would make a difference, but I gotta say. HUGE difference. Someone said Night and Day difference....well maybe not that, but pretty close. I'll know more when I get my new bulb.

I was wondering if it is normal for a XX725 to take up to 30 seconds to turn on and have a picture. I have had it since Nov 05 and I don't recall it taking so long for a picture to come up. Maybe its normal, maybe not. Still love the TV though......

Mitsu52Guy,
what chemical did you use to clean your mirror/bulb or did you just use a dry cloth?

I was wondering if it is normal for a XX725 to take up to 30 seconds to turn on and have a picture. I have had it since Nov 05 and I don't recall it taking so long for a picture to come up. Maybe its normal, maybe not. Still love the TV though......

Hi,
I'm pretty sure that's consistent with what I see...I think it is pretty much normal. I'm sure people will let us know if it isn't, though! :)

-Randy

I was wondering if it is normal for a XX725 to take up to 30 seconds to turn on and have a picture. I have had it since Nov 05 and I don't recall it taking so long for a picture to come up. Maybe its normal, maybe not. Still love the TV though......

Yeah, that is normal.

OK, that is good it is normal. It just makes it hard to program macro's into a remote when the TV takes so long to turn on.......

If your macro is changing inputs on the TV, you don't have to wait for the lamp to warm up before you issue the command. The TV will respond, you just won't get visual feedback until there is a picture displayed.

OK, that is good it is normal. It just makes it hard to program macro's into a remote when the TV takes so long to turn on.......

I just have a short delay between the power on command to the TV and the discrete input command - it works great (even though the lamp hasn't turned on yet). I have a Harmony remote here (the 880).

I will try that. I assumed the bulb had to be on before I did anything. Should never assume.....

I'm an owner of a WD62525 that just started having audio problems. What has changed is I just got a E* receiver (942) that has an HDMI output, so now I'm receiving audio via the HDMI cable whereas before I was only getting it via either the digital audio through the audio receiver or via the RCA composite audio connections. When the station is broadcasting in HD, the sound coming through has these annoying crackling noises that I can't seem to get rid of. Another owner of a WD62725 said he had to have parts replaced before this problem went away. Anyone else having these problems and how did you fix them? What parts needed to be replaced if this is what you did to fix them? Thanks in advance for any info you can provide.

This thread is hella long!

I have at Mitsu 52725 and lately I've been seeing this vertical line (tear?) appear for a second and dissappear. Its about a 1/3 of the way from the left of the screen. I've seen it mostly when watching SD channels , but lately I've started to see it come thru on HD channels, DVD, and X360. I 've looked over this thread and found a couple people with the same issue but no solution was presented. Any of you experienced or heard of this issue?

Is the vertical line like a shift in the image where the two parts don't quite line up, or is it a solid color of some kind?

I've seen the shift kind of line come out of my cable box (Motorola 6412p3) from time to time, but never on any other source.

-John

I've seen the shift kind of line come out of my cable box (Motorola 6412p3) from time to time, but never on any other source.

-John

I've had the the vertical tear show up while viewing material from my D*TiVO box, I don't recall seeing while viewing cable via the QAM tuner though. Since I put the v4.05 firmware on my 62525 I haven't seen it nearly as much.

Is the vertical line like a shift in the image where the two parts don't quite line up, or is it a solid color of some kind?

I've seen the shift kind of line come out of my cable box (Motorola 6412p3) from time to time, but never on any other source.

-John
it appears as though the sides don't align or the left side is slightly behind live for just a split second. It appears randomly so I can't take a pic or anything. It only used to be if I was watching SD channels (FSN mainly for basketball) but I'm starting to see it branch to HD, DVD, and X360. For cable I have charter, using the MOXI HD DVR box. Everything is hooked up via component.

Does anyone know if it's possible to check the number of hours currently used for the lamp? I know you can check with some DLP TV's but I don't know about the WD series of TVs.

Does anyone know if it's possible to check the number of hours currently used for the lamp? I know you can check with some DLP TV's but I don't know about the WD series of TVs.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7082660&&#post7082660

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7082660&&#post7082660

Thanks spiff72, I called Mitsubishi and of course, they said it was not possible to check the lamp life used. Sometimes I wonder how or if they train those CSRs?

The home key will exit out of that menu, by the way.

This menu is a service menu, so Mits CSR's are not likely to share it with the public...

The home key will exit out of that menu, by the way.

This menu is a service menu, so Mits CSR's are not likely to share it with the public...

I also pressed menu again to get out of the screen. I had been asked to press menu 2-4-7-0 in the past in order to check the software version so apparently, they do give out the code from time to time depending on the CSR. I just didn't realize that this code screen also had the lamp hours as well.

I cleaned the mirror of my 52525 again two days ago. The small mirror was very dirty again. I also used a lens brush on the projector lens. At the same time, I did the bulb shake.

...

I did the bulb shake today as well as cleaned the filter according to the manual instructions but I couldn't find any information on cleaning the mirrors in the manual. Can anyone provide information on how to get to the mirrors to clean them?

You have to take the screen off, which can be very tricky unless you have help. Quite a few screws around the back. Don't lift it by the top bar and be very careful not to get lint or dust on the back of the screen and be careful not to touch it. Any debris will be obvious in the pix and it is a PITA to take it back off.

The best thing that I have found to clean screens, mirrors, and lenses is a Lexan cleaner made by GE that you can buy in a quart spray bottle inexpensively at Home Depot. They sell a bundle of microfiber cloths also, which are great for this purpose. Both are in the area where they sell glass and Lexan panes for windows. I have tested this on old screens, mirrors, and lenses that we have in the shop and it is safe and will not streak or smear. It minimizes static, also. Great stuff.

Keep in mind these are front surface mirrors and you can easily damage them or even remove the reflective properties.

Mitsu52Guy,
what chemical did you use to clean your mirror/bulb or did you just use a dry cloth?

Just a microfiber cloth, a T-shirt, canned air and a stiff drink before I started :)

Keep in mind these are front surface mirrors and you can easily damage them or even remove the reflective properties.

A clean microfiber cloth and the cleaner that I recommended is the best way that I have found to NOT damage first surface optical mirrors. Cotton cloths are much more likely to cause small scratches, and cleaning dry is worse. I have several old mirrors from junkers, including first surface glass and the mylar crap that Thomson uses and have experimented many times with a variety of cleaners. Windex works pretty well, 409 glass & surface cleaner (purple flavor) works well, but the Lexan cleaner is easily the best and is also safe on lenses and screens.

Don't clean the mirror dry. Any dust is more likely to scratch it. If there is little dust and mostly just film you might be ok, but I find it better to cut the oils with a cleaner and the dust is less likely to scratch the surface.

As for the bulb, I just use a dry microfiber cloth. Make sure not to get any oils from your skin on the bulb itself.

Don't clean the mirror dry. Any dust is more likely to scratch it. If there is little dust and mostly just film you might be ok, but I find it better to cut the oils with a cleaner and the dust is less likely to scratch the surface.

As for the bulb, I just use a dry microfiber cloth. Make sure not to get any oils from your skin on the bulb itself.

How would one even know if they have damaged their mirror???

Look at it from all angles. Damage will be scratches usually. Possibly distortion that looks foggy.

You have to take the screen off, which can be very tricky unless you have help. ...

I think I'll leave it alone. Judging from the last few posts, I could cause more damage than benefits. The set is only 18 months old, could the mirrors be that dirty in such a short time?

For some reason I decided to re-scan my OTA channels on my WD-62525. When the re-scan was complete, I lost all of my Digital OTA channels, and I can not get them back. I did search this thread for anyone who had any similar problems, and I couldn't find anyone with this specific problem. I have re-scanned several times with no luck.

Basically, any time I try and manually put in a digital channel (i.e. 7-2 or 7-1), it does not recognize it. I tried the 2-4-7-0 menu thing and there is no signal strength on any of the digital channels I manually type in.

I am have firmware 004.03.

For some reason I decided to re-scan my OTA channels on my WD-62525. When the re-scan was complete, I lost all of my Digital OTA channels, and I can not get them back. I did search this thread for anyone who had any similar problems, and I couldn't find anyone with this specific problem. I have re-scanned several times with no luck.

Basically, any time I try and manually put in a digital channel (i.e. 7-2 or 7-1), it does not recognize it. I tried the 2-4-7-0 menu thing and there is no signal strength on any of the digital channels I manually type in.

I am have firmware 004.03.

You probably need to do a reset (with the recessed button on the front of the TV). You should also call Mits to get the latest firmware.

Well after doing some hardware and software V and H tweaking, I've got my tilt looking pretty good. But as you can see by the pics, there's still a little bit of tilt at the bottom and right (at least that's what it looks like). Can someone who's done this tell me if what I have is pretty good, or is there something else I can do.

For some reason I decided to re-scan my OTA channels on my WD-62525. When the re-scan was complete, I lost all of my Digital OTA channels, and I can not get them back. ...

The latest update is 4.05. I'm sorry about your not being able to scan your digital stations. I have the opposite problem and Mits is not able to fix it even though I've seen it work correctly on other Mts TVs of similar types. I can't seem to get rid of my digital sub-stations. For example, I manually delete 2.2, 4.2, 4.3, 5.2, 7.2, etc. and the next day or so, they're all back. It seems like the TV does some scanning behind the scenes and puts back all of the sub-stations if you have the primary station scanned. In other words, it will leave the sub-station alone as long as you have the primary stations (.1's) deleted. I hope I'm making myself clear.

You probably need to do a reset (with the recessed button on the front of the TV). You should also call Mits to get the latest firmware.

Alright. The manual reset worked. Thank you. BTW- The reset from the 2-4-7-0 menu did not work (I tried that before I posted my message).

I will call them to get the latest firmware. Does there need to be a problem for them to send me the latest firmware, or will they just send it to me?

Alright. The manual reset worked. Thank you. BTW- The reset from the 2-4-7-0 menu did not work (I tried that before I posted my message).

I will call them to get the latest firmware. Does there need to be a problem for them to send me the latest firmware, or will they just send it to me?

Telling them that you lost and could not get back your stations should be enough.

I just got a new lamp for my TV, and I was wondering if there's a way to reset the timer. When I put the new lamp in, the TV didn't ask me if I had placed a new lamp into the TV.

So even though there is a new lamp it still reads

02858 02858 00000 00000 00000


Thanks

I just got a new lamp for my TV, and I was wondering if there's a way to reset the timer. When I put the new lamp in, the TV didn't ask me if I had placed a new lamp into the TV.

So even though there is a new lamp it still reads

02858 02858 00000 00000 00000


Thanks

Did you unplug the TV when you replaced the lamp? Every time power to the TV is interrupted it normally asks if you replaced the lamp. If you did, you might try unplugging again....just a thought...

-Randy

Did you unplug the TV when you replaced the lamp? Every time power to the TV is interrupted it normally asks if you replaced the lamp. If you did, you might try unplugging again....just a thought...

-Randy

Yeah I tried that. I actually had the TV plugged in when I removed the old light, let it sit overnight and into the next day until I got home with the new bulb, then plugged in the new bulb, and plugged the TV in. I never saw a message.

I've unplugged the TV several time before and I've never seen that message. I've read where the latest firmware might have taken that message away.

This is a problem because the TV is going to think this bulb has 4000 hours on it when it only has about 1200.....

I had the same problem after replacing the lamp. The message to reset the timer did not appear. I was able to reset the timer by pressing the Enter key immediately after turning the TV on the first time after it had been plugged in.

Yeah I tried that. I actually had the TV plugged in when I removed the old light, let it sit overnight and into the next day until I got home with the new bulb, then plugged in the new bulb, and plugged the TV in. I never saw a message.

I've unplugged the TV several time before and I've never seen that message. I've read where the latest firmware might have taken that message away.

This is a problem because the TV is going to think this bulb has 4000 hours on it when it only has about 1200.....


Well I got it...not the best way though. From the 2470 Service Menu, if you do an initialize it resets it. :(

Well I got it...not the best way though. From the 2470 Service Menu, if you do an initialize it resets it. :(


Ugh...I did the reset once by accident, and it took me awhile to get things back where I wanted them. Sorry you had to go that route. I was pretty sure you had unplugged the set but I thought I would mention it, just in case. I have never updated my firmware (my set still hasn't given me a reason to) so maybe that is why I still get the message....

-Randy

Well after doing some hardware and software V and H tweaking, I've got my tilt looking pretty good. But as you can see by the pics, there's still a little bit of tilt at the bottom and right (at least that's what it looks like). Can someone who's done this tell me if what I have is pretty good, or is there something else I can do.
Looks really good to me. I can't get my bottom left quite that straight.

I just got a new lamp for my TV, and I was wondering if there's a way to reset the timer. When I put the new lamp in, the TV didn't ask me if I had placed a new lamp into the TV.

So even though there is a new lamp it still reads

02858 02858 00000 00000 00000

Thanks

I'm glad you got it to reset, but out of curiosity, why did you have to replace the lamp after only 2800 hours of lamp life? I thought these lamps were supposed to last around 8000 hours?

I think I'll leave it alone. Judging from the last few posts, I could cause more damage than benefits. The set is only 18 months old, could the mirrors be that dirty in such a short time?
well many people have had reports of dirty mirrors= smudges, dark spots, lower levels of brightness... so YES, if your mrrors are dirty it can be a significant difference in PQ. with many reports of this happening within the first 6 months and then even needing to do it again, it would be wise to go ahead and do a visual check at least. maybe make a plan to do it and get a friend, neighbor, relative to stop by and help. or call a local service guy, if the mirrors are as dirty as some have reported and shown in photos it would be worth the service call price to get it cleaned.

to mitsguy ronlee and others who had lamps replaced......

did mits cover them under warranty, what price is the lamp from mits? did they charger a core fee or ask you to return it?

or what vendors did you get them from.

There have been reports of toshiba extending lamp warranty to two years and panasonic to a year and a half because of premature lamp failure rates on those sets.

My family really loves the mits dlp set and it stays on constantly with wife and kids, but I did not count on replacing a high priced lamp every year or two.

to mitsguy ronlee and others who had lamps replaced......

did mits cover them under warranty, what price is the lamp from mits? did they charger a core fee or ask you to return it?

or what vendors did you get them from.

There have been reports of toshiba extending lamp warranty to two years and panasonic to a year and a half because of premature lamp failure rates on those sets.

My family really loves the mits dlp set and it stays on constantly with wife and kids, but I did not count on replacing a high priced lamp every year or two.
Yes Mitsu covered the lamp under the first year warranty. I called them and complained for what appeared to be low level flashes on the screen.

I'm glad you got it to reset, but out of curiosity, why did you have to replace the lamp after only 2800 hours of lamp life? I thought these lamps were supposed to last around 8000 hours?


I've heard only 4000. The reasons I did it were:

a. Because of what I saw as flashes on the screen. Like the bulb was changing brightness
b. Because I knew it would be covered under warranty.

[QUOTE=dssturbo1]to mitsguy ronlee and others who had lamps replaced......


My TV was out of warranty and I had to pay $250 plus ~$5 shipping. I ordered the lamp directly from Mitsubishi using the phone number in the owners manual. The new lamp arrived in two days. There was no core charge. There was a prepaid shipping label to return the old lamp. The lamps contain mercury and must be disposed of properly. I kept the old lamp for a spare. It was getting dim. The new lamp was brighter than the original lamp when new. The old lamp quartz(?) faceplate was partially fogged. I believe that was caused by frequent power failures with the tv on in the first few months. I purchased a UPS to allow a lamp cool down before power off.

I tried to insert an SD Memory Card into the Card 1 slot at the front of the TV and the card didn't seem to fit. It seems like it starts to go in but then gets stuck toward the very start of the card. I called Mits CSR and as usual they were no help at all. Has anyone else successfully viewed their pictures from an SD card and if so, did you have any problems at first with inserting the card? I tried both a Viking card and a Canon card and both of them didn't seem to fit.

Well, after 17 months and 4,000 hours of use in a dusty environment, blotches finally appeared on my screen. One was too big not to notice any more, and since I had the extended warranty, I figured I'd make the call...

The screen is easier to remove than I'd thought even after reading the writeup here; it's simple. The bottom mirror was f i l t h y and it's a miracle the TV had as good a picture as it did -- or any picture at all, frankly. Filthy! The foam piece had detached as usual, and new self-adhesive foam pieces were cut to size not just around the main opening from the lamp area but also around small gaps anywhere around there, and everything is now sealed up really well. I also got a firmware flash to .05 (from .02, never touched the firmware).

New TV again! I highly recommend anyone look into a good cleaning. Amazing results.

sd,

at 4000+ hours had the lamp replacment warning come onscreen ? did not mention if you also got a lamp replaced

Did you have an extended warranty through Mits or a different company, since you did say you got a firmware upgrade?

has anyone had Mits cover a lamp or mirror cleaning after the set was past the one year mits warranty period. mine is 14 months and I am going to local dealer to discuss if they or mits may do it even though it has gone past warranty a little.
doesn't hurt to ask and if they want i will just buy a new lamp and attempt to clean mirror myself.

just bought a couple of the mits 1100 dvhs decks to try record from firewire, anyone else using that to record from mits firewire sets?

I've successfully inserted a SD card and viewed photos. Also listened to music. Wish you could do both at the same time. My only thought is to make sure you have the right slot and insert the card the right side up (both of which you are probably already doing). Otherwise, it sounds like a defect to me!

I tried to insert an SD Memory Card into the Card 1 slot at the front of the TV and the card didn't seem to fit. It seems like it starts to go in but then gets stuck toward the very start of the card. I called Mits CSR and as usual they were no help at all. Has anyone else successfully viewed their pictures from an SD card and if so, did you have any problems at first with inserting the card? I tried both a Viking card and a Canon card and both of them didn't seem to fit.

Yes. It has worked fine for me (though I wish I could enlarge the photos). It is a little tricky to get it in the slot (the reader is dark and in an inconvenient location).

I hope you get it working. It has turned out to be of those "we-didn't-know-we-wanted-it-until-we-started-using-it" features for our family.

sd, at 4000+ hours had the lamp replacment warning come onscreen ? did not mention if you also got a lamp replaced

No, the 'lamp' LED is still green, probably because it had been "reset" accidentally after a power outage so the total hours exceed 4000 but the lamp use hours are still in the 3000s. The guy said when the lamp hours known exceed 4k, it'll turn orange, and to expect the lamp to last from 4k to 7k+ hours.

Did you have an extended warranty through Mits or a different company, since you did say you got a firmware upgrade?

I had the service plan though a local Mitsu dealer, and it his his third-party plan. The fellow that came over said they try to -- and can -- do almost everything on site, which is great, though lamps are not covered, which is less than stellar but I'm OK with it.

Overall very pleased with the service and certainly with the TV. Picture is still competitive IMO with anything out there, at least as I see the newer sets in stores.

Sorry no answers to the rest of your Qs.

Hello all, I'll be getting my 65825 delivered later today (they tried the other day, but evidently in the 20 minute trip from the store to my place, the set broke - red status light on = not good).

Anyway...I'm replacing my 55-807 which I obviously left on the floor, but this new TV is a beast. I had them set it on a baker's cart which made it look huge, so I'm wondering if I should have them leave it on the floor (like my 55-807) or if I should set it up on something?

Essentially I'm asking what the ideal viewing height is for my 62" DLP? Would it work on the ground, or does it need to be lifted up in some manner and if so, how much?

Thanks in advance for any help/comments you can give...

Essentially I'm asking what the ideal viewing height is for my 62" DLP? Would it work on the ground, or does it need to be lifted up in some manner and if so, how much?

I have my 62525 sitting on the matching Mits stand and that seems to put the viewing height right in the middle of the screen...which I believe to be the recommended setup. Of course the stand may not work for everyone, depending on how low/high your couch/chair that you'll be doing most of your viewing from.
Not much help to your setup, but shooting for something that will get you centered vertical on the screen is what you might want to look into.

Ok so I am have a lot of issues with my television. First I noticed the left third portion of the screen was having issues and would be slightly off from the rest of the picture for a brief second. This only happened once every 3-4 months. Then I noticed that the digital audio output didn't work the first time I connected something to it. I called Mitsubishi and they troubleshoot and determined I had to call the local service company, which I did.

It has now been almost 2 month, 3 visit's later(which every time I have to miss work) and all I have is a tv that is in even worse condition than it was before I called. I have even called Mitsubishi a number of times and they are no help as well. So anyways now the TV when powered on has black and white rectangles all over the entire screen. I can hear audio but no video. If I unplug the tv for a long period of time at least half an hour and plug it back in it works for a while. I have a second issue now though when it works the screen will freeze on a frame similar to pausing whatever I am watching. Again there is audio but no video. I left it once like this for a long period of time and it finally came back to my DVD I was watching. Anyways if I leave it powered off but plugged in for a long period of time, once I turn it on all I get is the black and white rectangles. I am wondering if anyone has seen this and if so PLEASE help. I have also tried a reset and it doesn't help at all.

Ok so I am have a lot of issues with my television. First I noticed the left third portion of the screen was having issues and would be slightly off from the rest of the picture for a brief second. This only happened once every 3-4 months. Then I noticed that the digital audio output didn't work the first time I connected something to it. I called Mitsubishi and they troubleshoot and determined I had to call the local service company, which I did.

It has now been almost 2 month, 3 visit's later(which every time I have to miss work) and all I have is a tv that is in even worse condition than it was before I called. I have even called Mitsubishi a number of times and they are no help as well. So anyways now the TV when powered on has black and white rectangles all over the entire screen. I can hear audio but no video. If I unplug the tv for a long period of time at least half an hour and plug it back in it works for a while. I have a second issue now though when it works the screen will freeze on a frame similar to pausing whatever I am watching. Again there is audio but no video. I left it once like this for a long period of time and it finally came back to my DVD I was watching. Anyways if I leave it powered off but plugged in for a long period of time, once I turn it on all I get is the black and white rectangles. I am wondering if anyone has seen this and if so PLEASE help. I have also tried a reset and it doesn't help at all.

Call Mitsubishi Customer Relations at 800-332-2119 and explain that the normal service support system has not solved your problem. Contact your dealer and see if they will intervene to get the problems solved. The problem is almost certainly the local service provider. I do a great deal of Mitsubishi service and find that they are one of the best in terms of support and customer relations.

I have found the correct modeline for the 1184x666 on my 62725, and I've seen a lot of references on the existence of 1280x720 settings, but for the life of me, I can't find them. Could some kind soul please post them for me?

FWIW, I'm running an Nvidia 6200 via VGA into my 62725. Also, I'm running Linux, so if you're posting numbers from PowerStrip, pls include the Linux ModeLine.

Justin

I have a weird problem and am wondering if anyone else has experienced this with their TV -- or knows how to get rid of it.

When I use PIP the "sub picture" has TERRIBLE color. It's especially annoying when I have two large side by side frames.

What happens is that whatever is in the sub frame(s) has a very heavy, noticable red tint. This is not from the source, because if I exchange the sources the picture that was red is now clear and vice versa.

It's as if the PIP frame has its own set of color adjustments, but as far as I know there is no such thing.

Any thoughts?

I have my PC connected to my set using the VGA input. Everything is OK when I'm running in Windows. Problem is when I'm in DOS or Linux using the command line interface. The bottom two lines of text are cut off.

This is a major problem because you can only type in the bottom line, so you can't see what you are typing. And when a program prompts you for some kind of input, it happens in the bottom line. So if you can't see the line that is a major problem.

Is anyone successfully getting DOS to display properly in their set?

Thanks.

If you hit the format button on the remote while viewing the VGA input, you cycle through two levels of "reduction". the picture zooms out to deal with obscured edges of the screen due to overscan. Alternatively, you can open a command prompt window within Windows XP, which gives you a resizeable command line window.

If you hit the format button on the remote while viewing the VGA input, you cycle through two levels of "reduction". the picture zooms out to deal with obscured edges of the screen due to overscan. Alternatively, you can open a command prompt window within Windows XP, which gives you a resizeable command line window.

Thanks, but when you are running in DOS (not a command window from Windows) or Linux, the format button does nothing to correct for overscan. All it does is stretch and skew the screen.

And when you are running in DOS or Linux, I don't know of a way to change the screen dimmensions.

Has anyone booted into Linux (command line not GUI) and been able to display all the screen lines? If so, how?

I've tried, but had the same issues as you. Are you using the vesa framebuffer? Using fbset and a framebuffer, you should be able to correct for overscan, I just didn't have the patience. You can run X.org to fit perfectly, and then open up your terminal there. That's what I do.

You are the first Linux user I've stumbled across in this thread - we should compare notes. I'm in the process of building a MythTV box right now.

Justin

I'm an owner of a WD62525 that just started having audio problems. What has changed is I just got a E* receiver (942) that has an HDMI output, so now I'm receiving audio via the HDMI cable whereas before I was only getting it via either the digital audio through the audio receiver or via the RCA composite audio connections. When the station is broadcasting in HD, the sound coming through has these annoying crackling noises that I can't seem to get rid of. Another owner of a WD62725 said he had to have parts replaced before this problem went away. Anyone else having these problems and how did you fix them? What parts needed to be replaced if this is what you did to fix them? Thanks in advance for any info you can provide.

I just had the local Mitsubishi dealer here on Wednesday. He replaced the whole chassis and I no longer have the crackling noises. The technician said that the chassis was about $900.00 and the labor about $300.00 so it cost mitsubishi around $1,200.00 to fix this problem.

I just had the local Mitsubishi dealer here on Wednesday. He replaced the whole chassis and I no longer have the crackling noises. The technician said that the chassis was about $900.00 and the labor about $300.00 so it cost mitsubishi around $1,200.00 to fix this problem.

Chances are that he quoted you retail rates. If not, I need to renegotiate my labor rate with Mitsubishi. The price for the chassis was retail. Mitubishi's cost on the repair was likely half what you think.

Chances are that he quoted you retail rates. If not, I need to renegotiate my labor rate with Mitsubishi. The price for the chassis was retail. Mitubishi's cost on the repair was likely half what you think.

You're probably right, but $450.00 is still a lot of $.

True, but they will rebuild the chassis and turn it around to fix another set. I suspect from the numbers that we sell and repair that the failure rate is pretty reasonable. I only do a a handfull of warranty claims a year on Mits products and we quite a few of them. I often go months without filing a claim.

True, but they will rebuild the chassis and turn it around to fix another set. I suspect from the numbers that we sell and repair that the failure rate is pretty reasonable. I only do a a handfull of warranty claims a year on Mits products and we quite a few of them. I often go months without filing a claim.

Do you see a lot of Mitsubishi owners (this model specifically) that once start using the HDMI input have had the crackling audio problems? In other words, do you think this is a defect of this model or did I just happen to get a TV that had this problem?

Mine has the crackling sound sometimes. I have a hd directivo connected. Seems that is what most people have. So the real question is it the Mits or the Tivo that is the problem.

I've had my 62725 since 10/04 and it's been pretty much trouble free until now. Just rencently I lost all of the Netcommand programmed settings (Cable box, AVR, DVD) so I re-programmed everything and 24 hrs or so later, they were deleleted again, except the DVD settings. So, I re-programmed again, and the same thing happened. It's happened now about 4 or 5 times, and I can't seem to figure out what is going on. BTW, I've been running v.05 of the firmware since it was released, which is the latest version, correct?

Anyone have any ideas?

yes, .05 is the latest i think

I have a weird problem and am wondering if anyone else has experienced this with their TV -- or knows how to get rid of it.

When I use PIP the "sub picture" has TERRIBLE color. It's especially annoying when I have two large side by side frames.

What happens is that whatever is in the sub frame(s) has a very heavy, noticable red tint. This is not from the source, because if I exchange the sources the picture that was red is now clear and vice versa.

It's as if the PIP frame has its own set of color adjustments, but as far as I know there is no such thing.

Any thoughts?

BUMP...

I'd appreciate it if someone could respond to this with how their PIP color is. Do you have the red tint too, or are the colors correct in all frames? If a couple of you could confirm that your colors are accurate (or not) I'll know whether or not I have a problem. Thanks.

BUMP...

I'd appreciate it if someone could respond to this with how their PIP color is. Do you have the red tint too, or are the colors correct in all frames? If a couple of you could confirm that your colors are accurate (or not) I'll know whether or not I have a problem. Thanks.

I very seldom use PIP, but I can't remember anything like this happening when I do. I use the POP (split screen) a little more often, and have never noticed anything like this. Do you see the same color problem when using the split screen function? Just off-hand it sounds like a problem with your second tuner....

Sorry I couldn't be more help...

-Randy

Mine has the crackling sound sometimes. I have a hd directivo connected. Seems that is what most people have. So the real question is it the Mits or the Tivo that is the problem.

I know it's the Mitsubishi. It starts crackling when the station is broadcasting in DD5.1. If you get any HD stations, then you should notice it then.

BUMP...

I'd appreciate it if someone could respond to this with how their PIP color is. Do you have the red tint too, or are the colors correct in all frames? If a couple of you could confirm that your colors are accurate (or not) I'll know whether or not I have a problem. Thanks.

I normally use the PIP function of the satellite receiver rather than the PIP of the TV because the 62525 doesn't allow PIP if you have digital stations scanned. I don't have any analog stations scanned in.

I've had my 62725 since 10/04 and it's been pretty much trouble free until now. Just rencently I lost all of the Netcommand programmed settings (Cable box, AVR, DVD) so I re-programmed everything and 24 hrs or so later, they were deleleted again, except the DVD settings. So, I re-programmed again, and the same thing happened. It's happened now about 4 or 5 times, and I can't seem to figure out what is going on. BTW, I've been running v.05 of the firmware since it was released, which is the latest version, correct?

Anyone have any ideas?


Isn't there an internal battery in there somewhere that powers that data storage?

Our building had an 8 hour power shut down and all my Net command stuff was not deleted. However, if I unplug it at all I have to re-memorize all my stations (52725).

I normally use the PIP function of the satellite receiver rather than the PIP of the TV because the 62525 doesn't allow PIP if you have digital stations scanned. I don't have any analog stations scanned in.

You can test this if you have more than one device plugged directly into your set. You can set the PIP subframe to come from another device, so that you are watching satellite in one frame and DVD (or anything else) in another frame. In fact, I have not tried to see if I have the same problem when watching two different channels using the TV's tuners. I've only used PIP with two different inputs and I have the problem; regardless of the source, the sub frame always has a red tint.

Can't anyone take two minutes to turn their PIP on and let me know if you have the same problem? I've received and dispensed all kinds of help here -- on things far more complicated than this. But I can barely get one person to tell me if the colors on their PIP are OK. Sorry I'm a little frustrated, but this is such an easy question it's frustrating that nobody will help.

To clarify: please test your PIP with two DIFFERENT INPUTS and let me know if your sub frame (the frame(s) on the right side) has a heavy red tint.

Thank you in advance.

Questions:

1) Does the actual display engine operate in RGB format internally? I assume this is the case.

2) Has anyone compared an identical source connected via both RGBHV and YCC to compare the image quality?

I have an iScan VP30 that can communicate in either color space format, and I'm wondering where the best place would be for the color space conversion (assuming #1 above is true)?

Most of my sources (SDI DVD, Cable box, etc) are YCC and I've fed that via the VP30 into INP-DTV as YCC with good results. But I'm experimenting with letting the VP30 do the conversion to RGB then feeding that (also via INP-DTV) as RGBHV.

So far I'd say the difference isn't dramatic either way, but I haven't had enough time yet to make a final decision on which might be better. Any feedback y'all have is appreciated.

-John

uscpsycho,

I rarely use PIP but have noticed that the color settings vary between full screen and PIP. It isn't night and day but there are subtle differences in brightness and tint.

This is with 720p sources (cable box and DVD calibrated with DVE). In PIP, the two do NOT look the same. Hope that helps.

uscpsycho,

I rarely use PIP but have noticed that the color settings vary between full screen and PIP. It isn't night and day but there are subtle differences in brightness and tint.

This is with 720p sources (cable box and DVD calibrated with DVE). In PIP, the two do NOT look the same. Hope that helps.

Thank you.

For me, the difference is night and day, the sub frame picture is abysmal.

I assume you experience the same thing I do, when you swap sources, the picture that was on the left gets messed up, and vice versa.

Is this an inherent problem with the set, or is this something that can & should be fixed by Mitsubishi?

Does anyone have a good picture on all frames when using PIP?

I believe the problem is inherent to the TV. :( Have you noticed that the brightness on the subframe screen in side by side mode is high enough to not be black? That's the case for me.

Can Mits fix it? I don't know but I wouldn't hold my breath since the TV isn't in production anymore. While they are at it, I hope they fix the MPEG decoder to accept 1080i HDV via firewire (my biggest gripe).

I believe the problem is inherent to the TV. :( Have you noticed that the brightness on the subframe screen in side by side mode is high enough to not be black? That's the case for me.

Can Mits fix it? I don't know but I wouldn't hold my breath since the TV isn't in production anymore. While they are at it, I hope they fix the MPEG decoder to accept 1080i HDV via firewire (my biggest gripe).

Are you saying your subframe is too bright? If anything my subframe is not bright enough. And there are no blacks in the subframe. The whole subframe looks like it's covered by a red gel, so even the blacks have a red tint. Can you picture a dull, muddy reddish black? That's what I get.

I don't feel like I was an early adopter by buying this set, but the performance sometimes makes me feel like I bought this thing before Mits had the kinks worked out. If these problems are inherent to all DLP's then Texas Instruments needs to invent something else.

...regardless of the source, the sub frame always has a red tint.

....

To clarify: please test your PIP with two DIFFERENT INPUTS and let me know if your sub frame (the frame(s) on the right side) has a heavy red tint.

Thank you in advance.

Yes, you are right. I have the Monolink (HDMI) on the primary window and changed the PIP device to the same source (satellite) except through component input rather than HDMI and I do see the heavy red tint as well. This must be an undocumented feature on this model TV (62525).

[QUOTE]Is this an inherent problem with the set, or is this something that can & should be fixed by Mitsubishi Inherent design flaw"sort of" confessed to me by MITS 2nd level tech.
[QUOTE]Does anyone have a good picture on all frames when using PIP?[/QUOTE

No, and don't expect one. The best I can find out It is what it is.
Not defending it but over all its a pretty decent unit even with a couple of flaws.

Bear!

[QUOTE=uscpsycho]
...
Not defending it but over all its a pretty decent unit even with a couple of flaws.

Bear!

I don't buy that. It seems like within the last couple of years, every new technology (in this case, DLP) has design flaws that the consumer is supposed to accept because it is new technology. I'm a software developer and we would not release anything that has not been thoroughly tested, but big companies seem to do it all the time (Mitsubishi, Dish, etc.) for example. The reason they're getting away with it is because people will put up with it judging from the statement
"... pretty decent unit even with a couple of flaws." We would not have put up with this a few years ago before the digital age. When we bought a TV, receiver, etc., it would work the way it was advertised and didn't have any of these "design flaws". Thank you for allowing me to rant.

[QUOTE=bear paws]

[QUOTE]I don't buy that. I'm a software developer and we would not release anything that has not been thoroughly tested, Yes tested by the 20/80 rule.
So you don't subscribe to the 20/80 rule that all other developers do? Bull Ticky!! The system anylists don't exist? And QA is not in your language?

Puulleese, Give it a rest. Untill GOD himself comes down from the mount and trys again there will always be Model Ts, Pintos, Titanics.and Windows OS.

The life expectancy of car up till recently was 50,000 mi. with 2 valve jobs 10 tune ups, 15 batteries and 20 sets of tires.
TVs? Snow, horizontal hold, vertical roll, RFI, 260' F heaters [filiments] tubes that degraded within 1-2 years. picture tube brightners 2nd year..

Oh yeah babe, bring back the old days.

As i said on another thread " it could be worse, you could be in a cave in AFGANISTAN with a 13 inch black & white with a hand crank on its side"

Reread my very last sentance again. IN context this time. No need to appolegize :rolleyes:

Bear!

[QUOTE=lujan][QUOTE=bear paws]

Yes tested by the 20/80 rule.
So you don't subscribe to the 20/80 rule that all other developers do? Bull Ticky!! The system anylists don't exist? And QA is not in your language?

Puulleese, Give it a rest. Untill GOD himself comes down from the mount and trys again there will always be Model Ts, Pintos, Titanics.and Windows OS.

The life expectancy of car up till recently was 50,000 mi. with 2 valve jobs 10 tune ups, 15 batteries and 20 sets of tires.
TVs? Snow, horizontal hold, vertical roll, RFI, 260' F heaters [filiments] tubes that degraded within 1-2 years. picture tube brightners 2nd year..

Oh yeah babe, bring back the old days.

As i said on another thread " it could be worse, you could be in a cave in AFGANISTAN with a 13 inch black & white with a hand crank on its side"

Reread my very last sentance again. IN context this time. No need to appolegize :rolleyes:

Bear!
Wow, you have a pretty defeatest mentality there. And oh so terribly flawed logic.

Sure, technology has advanced. But to compare 21st technology to the state of the art 30 years ago is assinine. As it is to compare the state of the art in America to state of the art in a war-torn country like Afghanistan.

Yes, it can always be worse. My TV could stop producing color and only show black and white. But it could be worse -- at least I have a 62" black & white, it could be a 13" black & white with a hand crank on its side. Whatever!

It is true that there will always be products Model T's and Mitsubishi DLP's that do not meet market expectations. Those products usually face a quick, harsh death. But some people shelled out good money for these items and they have every right to be upset when the product underperforms. This forum is full of people who bought a Mitsubishi DLP and are unhappy with it. The fact that it "could be worse" is no consolation to someone who paid $4000 for a TV with a bright spot, with red tint, with horrible geometry, with random software glitches, with recurring smudges, etc. (likely a combination of these things and others)

Every product doesn't have to be perfect, but this line of television sets has too many flaws to be considered ready for prime time. Especially at this price. Yes, under perfect conditions this TV can display a wonderful picture but most people will never see it.

This discussion is way off topic here, so we shouldn't drag it on. If you are happy with an imperfect TV that is your perogative. But this forum is full of people who shelled out a lot of money for their TVs and are pissed off about the problems they are dealing with. And they have every right to be!

[QUOTE=lujan][QUOTE=bear paws]
...
TVs? Snow, horizontal hold, vertical roll, RFI, 260' F heaters [filiments] tubes that degraded within 1-2 years. picture tube brightners 2nd year..

...

Bear!

I read your last sentence and it doesn't change anything. I still have a Mitsubishi that I bought in 1980 that is still working, so don't give me the "tubes that degraded within 1-2 years" story. The electronics of the past didn't have as many flaws and lasted a lot longer than they do now.

Not sure where to start?
Its either I can't write well enough to get my point across or there are some protagenists that insist on reading into my opinion their point of view.

(1) IMO, I'm probably the most optimistic guy around.
(2) My point about previously flawed products was not to compare eras nor excuse intentional shoddiness but to say that each generation does the best they can with what they know and unfortunately there will be known and unknown imperfections. The 20/80 rule.
(3)The market [WE,US,YOU, and THEM] demands new products "right now" and the dynamics of the consumer market place does not reward 10 years of testing before release. If that were the case , if the product was even affordable [ drugs as a example] because of the R&D time, you bleeding edge type lemmings would have moved on to the next techno Pide Piper, ready or not. You know you would.
(4) Most of us, that buy "bleeding edge", understand the inherent risk in doing so. This is not a "play it safe game" for the faint of heart or wallet and should not be playing if one can not understand that. This is rarely a zero sum adventure.
(5) There are plenty of relatively "safe" TVs or other products out there. Considering they were made by human hands guided by human minds.

THe Afganistan thing? Well, what can I tell you? War torn? A 12th century civilization (?)! May I suggest ,Throw yourself on the ground , hug and kiss it, and thank who/what ever is your higher power that you had the opportunity to live and buy in this grossly flawed market place that we created for ourselves.

"WE HAVE MET THE ENEMY AND IT IS US." "DO WE ATTACK OR RETREAT?" "YES!!"

Bear!

[QUOTE=bear paws][QUOTE=lujan]

I read your last sentence and it doesn't change anything. I still have a Mitsubishi that I bought in 1980 that is still working, so don't give me the "tubes that degraded within 1-2 years" story. The electronics of the past didn't have as many flaws and lasted a lot longer than they do now.


Strange you did not address the rest of my post about soft ware developement.

And You did nothing to get the 80 Mits this far?

We all have examples of exceptions to the rule like a 80 Mits. I have a 40 Ford, one of the 400 or so of the 80,000 built that year. Any guess where the other 79,600 are.

Bear!

[QUOTE=lujan][QUOTE=bear paws]


Strange you did not address the rest of my post about soft ware developement.

And You did nothing to get the 80 Mits this far?

We all have examples of exceptions to the rule like a 80 Mits. I have a 40 Ford, one of the 400 or so of the 80,000 built that year. Any guess where the other 79,600 are.

Bear!

I didn't address the software development issue because we don't have an 80/20 rule where I work. We just test it to death before releasing it and we don't take 10 years to do it.

No, I have not ever had to take the 1980 Mits to the shop. I've also owned other later edition Mitsubishis that haven't had any of these flaws. Like I said, I believe this started a few years ago with the progression of the digital age. Also, I do love the latest changes in PQ with the digital/HD screen, I'm just saying it shouldn't have to be at the expense of flawed equipment.

I finally took some photos of my problem. Does any of these look familiar to anybody? Like I said, I will have a tech over Tuesday to survey the set. Will post results then. Until he comes over, any observations will be appreciated. Thanks:
Lyle

Iciallo is right, it's your FMT board. I had the same problem, had mine changed out, and it went away...

[QUOTE=bear paws][QUOTE=lujan][QUOTE]
I'm just saying it shouldn't have to be at the expense of flawed equipment.
As I said, cutting edge can be a 2 edged. The digital age is still relatively new.
When I got my xtra class ticket {1958} solid state was a dream and digital was not thought of yet [well maybe ?]. But analog had been around since at least Copernicus' time.

What I was saying way back when is that for a process and technology still in its relative infancy, its amazingly good compared to the history of progress. And, at least to me, rarely used imperfect PIP is minor compared to the overall performance. Especially if its a fixable problem.
One of the PIP problems I had they had no fix for was the diff in contrast between PIPs.

Bear!

After living with a problem for several months, I finally got my 52525 fixed. It would randomly shut down and reset itself, even when turned off. The problem was intermittent before, but had become a constant nuisance recently. Unfortunately there is no Mits factory service here and only 2 small independents who work on them. After 6 unreturned phone calls to the tech my HDTV equipment supplier recommended, I called the other guy. I gave him a detailed description of what was happening and he called back after contacting Mitsubishi technical support. We ran through a few simple checks over the phone like disconnecting the card reader board but the problem remained. Mitsubishi said they were pretty certain that the Digital Module (DM) Board needed replacement. So he ordered it and came over a week later to replace it.

The DM Board is located right in the center of the electronics chassis box, and is the one the Cablecard plugs into. The chassis had to be removed from the set and disassembled almost entirely. Several boards and numerous cables harnesses had to be removed to get to the DM Board. I checked the board after its removal, thinking that perhaps dust buildup had been the cause of failure, but even though the adjoining board was quite dirty from dust being blown in by the DM fan, the DM Board itself was clean. After closing the chassis back up but before completely reinstalling it back into the TV, we turned the set on to check its operation. The status light came up red and the set shut off immediately. After a quick check to no avail, he agreed to return in the next day or two to troubleshoot (I was late for work, he was late for his next appt).

Well, that night I decided to poke and prod around and inside the chassis box. I soon noticed that the DM fan harness was not plugged into the DM Board (the DM fan is the fan that is on constantly, even when the set is off). Luckily I was able to plug it in without dismantling the chassis box. That would have been a nightmare. Anyway, the set powered up fine after that and a week later I have not seen the reset problem.

Repair cost was $380 for the board plus labor. Thankfully I had bought the extended warranty.

Delar,

Just a quick question I figure you could answer since you've been so deep in the tv. In your opinion, what is the biggest source of noise in this tv? Is there one fan that seems to be the loudest, or do you think that it's possibly the color wheel that's noisiest? Just looking for opinions. And, did you notice anything fancy about the fan connectors that may make replacing the fans difficult? TIA.

Each time I've had to call Mits for service on my TV they've given me a number of companies to chose from. Has anyone here had particularly good experience with an authorized Mits service center in L.A.?

It would be great to get someone who can actually fix my geometry problems and who can do the work at my house rather than taking the TV back to their shop.

Thanks in advance for any referrals.

for usc,

i tried the pip and my wd 62725 seems to be ok with the right pip frame. and when i swap them too. no noticable reddish tint gel look. getting a decent picture.
use the sat input for left main and a input from a dvd recorder on the right and then swap them. all ok. even if using the same channels from sat and throught the dvd recorder, they seem to be ok, decent. nothing glaringly wrong.

I'm not sure if it's this forum or not that had information on cleaning the bottom front surface mirror to remove smudges from the screen of my 62525, but we finally got around to doing it last weekend...

ABSOLUETLY FANTASTIC results!!

Thanks to the person who posted the proceedure and photos!!!

I'm not sure if it's this forum or not that had information on cleaning the bottom front surface mirror to remove smudges from the screen of my 62525, but we finally got around to doing it last weekend...

ABSOLUETLY FANTASTIC results!!

Thanks to the person who posted the proceedure and photos!!!

Anyone still have the procedure and photos? I did a search on this forum and couldn't find it anywhere.

Try this one

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/show...2&&#post5657842

That previous link didn't work, so I found the ones I posted a year ago.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5657105&&#post5657105

This is the first of the photos, and the instructions follow a few posts later.

That previous link didn't work, so I found the ones I posted a year ago.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5657105&&#post5657105

This is the first of the photos, and the instructions follow a few posts later.

Thanks spiff72, I'll try to find a day where I have enough courage to do this. I live alone and I guess I will have to ask a friend or family to help. Judging by the posts, it seems like it makes quite a big difference after they're cleaned. How many mirrors are there all together, do you remember?

Thanks spiff72, I'll try to find a day where I have enough courage to do this. I live alone and I guess I will have to ask a friend or family to help. Judging by the posts, it seems like it makes quite a big difference after they're cleaned. How many mirrors are there all together, do you remember?

It is just the one mirror that is shown in the pictures.

The bigger mirror that is attached to the back of the cabinet faces down, and I didn't clean that one.

While you are in there, I would strongly suggest trying to seal up area where the foam has come loose around the projection lens (visible in the first picture, on the right side of the projection lens). I can pretty much guarantee that the foam on your TV will look like this. This seems to be one of the major contributors to the dust getting inside this area.

I used black electrical tape and just taped across the hole (using several strips). I didn't try getting the foam to stick where it belongs, since it seems to be a lost cause.

Good luck

good work spiff.

those instructions should be stickied to the top of every page of this thread

good work spiff.

those instructions should be stickied to the top of every page of this thread

I do what I can around here.

Well after over a year of perfect operation, I turn on my TV tonight (62725) to find the screen have a red / Pink tint. All of the inputs other than PC (VGA) appear to this way. The PC input however looks fine.

I have tried unplugging the set to reset. I have used the reset button, but the problem does not appear to go away. I am fearing that its some kind of a hardware failure.

Any suggestions?

*update*
After playing with several different configurations, it appears that if I have the PC input selected, and put it into POP mode (side by side) the other input appears fine. I can do an exchange, and they still look fine, but if I return back to full screen on a non vga input, the red / pink tint comes back.

This points me more toward a software issue? Sound right?

It appears that I still have the 4.03 firmware. Will mitsu send me an update even though I'm out of warrenty?

I have a 9 month old 52725 set. It has worked great except in the last month I've noticed that on the HD channels the set doesn't hold the HD 16:9 signal but defaults to SD 4:3. I unplug the set and then repower and the HD 16:9 signal will show for about a day then back to SD 4:30 on all the HD Channels. I would appreciate any comments anyone might have on this problem. Thanks,

make sure to call and have it noted or seen about by Mits BEFORE the 1 year warranty expires, (if you don;t have extended warranty).

you do mean the ota hd channels. do you have sat or cable hd channels and if so does it do that on them too?

make sure to call and have it noted or seen about by Mits BEFORE the 1 year warranty expires, (if you don;t have extended warranty).

you do mean the ota hd channels. do you have sat or cable hd channels and if so does it do that on them too?

Fortunately I do have an extended warranty. I have a cable card installed - and the problem is occurring on all the HD channels.

Is there a place where I can find out what the meaning of different blinking colors/patterns from the status light means? I have it blinking in red at me 3 times repeatedly. Stays that way even after hours.

Thanks for the help.

Is there a place where I can find out what the meaning of different blinking colors/patterns from the status light means? I have it blinking in red at me 3 times repeatedly. Stays that way even after hours.

Thanks for the help.

I have a service manual for it at home - I know that the codes are listed in there. I will let you know.

EDIT: I had a copy on my work computer:

From your description, it sounds like the lamp or DMD fan stopped.

Thank you for checking. I appreciate it.

Generally speaking, I've been very happy with the 62725 that I bought in early November of 2004. Still has the original bulb, and only one software upgrade (04). I recently got a new HD DTV receiver, and I'd like to use the Mits remote, but for some reason I can't "teach" the remote, nor can I auto select the DTV box because it's not in the menu selection of brands.

I called Mits and they are sending me the "05" software chip, so maybe this will help, but I figured I'd ask if anyone else is having problems with learning remotes, and also being able to truly "edit" or "change" any part of the configuration. I basically can't change anything, so I have to delete the item or the whole configuration whic is a PITA to reinstall.

Thanks in advance for any help on the questions.

have you tried a Harmanoy remote or one of the MX series

have you tried a Harmanoy remote or one of the MX series

Nah... I'm trying not to spend any more money unless it's absolutely necessary. Apparently the memory card arrived today at home, so I'll upgrade the system tonight... and maybe I'll get lucky.

But in truth, I've never been able to "teach" the Mits remote anything, so I don't know if that's inherent in all Mits remotes or maybe my poor understanding of the instructions to "learn" your remote. When I had a normal Sony DTV receiver, I was able to use the Mits remote just fine just by using the Sony selection in NetCommand.

I was hoping someone with one of these new "leased" DTV receivers would respond and tell me how they got it to work.

Nah... I'm trying not to spend any more money unless it's absolutely necessary. Apparently the memory card arrived today at home, so I'll upgrade the system tonight... and maybe I'll get lucky.

But in truth, I've never been able to "teach" the Mits remote anything, so I don't know if that's inherent in all Mits remotes or maybe my poor understanding of the instructions to "learn" your remote. When I had a normal Sony DTV receiver, I was able to use the Mits remote just fine just by using the Sony selection in NetCommand.

I was hoping someone with one of these new "leased" DTV receivers would respond and tell me how they got it to work.

Perhaps the remote was released with codes that are newer than the Mits software. Perhaps the remote is operating only as RF and not infrared.

Nah... I'm trying not to spend any more money unless it's absolutely necessary. Apparently the memory card arrived today at home, so I'll upgrade the system tonight... and maybe I'll get lucky.

But in truth, I've never been able to "teach" the Mits remote anything, so I don't know if that's inherent in all Mits remotes or maybe my poor understanding of the instructions to "learn" your remote. When I had a normal Sony DTV receiver, I was able to use the Mits remote just fine just by using the Sony selection in NetCommand.

I was hoping someone with one of these new "leased" DTV receivers would respond and tell me how they got it to work.

I have a 62525 Mits and a H20 D* receiver. I was able to teach the Mits to control the H20 through NetCommand using the IR blaster just fine, although not all functions, of course. Follow the onscreen directions for "learn" procedure. You can refer to your Mits manual toward the back for a chart that shows which functions it allows for satellite receivers. Placement of the IR blaster in front of the H20 is tricky, however. Had to keep experimenting with that to make it work. By the way, you are not teaching the Mits remote, you're teaching the TV, which relays your commands via IR blaster to any and all components set up in NetComman.

Well, my lamp finally gave out on my WD52725, I'm trying to get warranty work done from UE, they told me the extended warranty covered up to 2 or 3 lamps, but unfortantly I don't have any paper work on the warranty. I tried to call UE but they just forwarded me to the local company that does the warranty work and they seem pretty clueless. I sent UE an email and they seem to be researching it. Has anyone else had a problem proving an extended warranty with UE?

BUT my main question is does anyone know the size and type of screw that holds the access panel to the lamp? I seemed to have lost the three screws that hold it on. I am pretty sure I put them up so I wouldn't lose them but forgot where I put them and would just like to get some replacements. ( i am sure as soon as I buy the new screws i'll find mine).

Who is UE?? Its been a while but I think the screws are #12x3/4. If the don't go in easy go down to a #14.

Thanks for the info on the screws.
UE= Ultimate Electronics, where I purchased my WD52725

Well, Ultimate Electronics finally found my warranty and faxed it over to the local company that does the work, and of course they don't have any lamps in stock, even though i asked them days ago to go ahead and get one, oh well.

I still haven't found the correct replacement screws for the lamp cover, it doesn't appear that lowes has the right kind. I guess i'll have to look somewhere else.

Who is UE?? Its been a while but I think the screws are #12x3/4. If the don't go in easy go down to a #14.

The screws are definitely NOT #14. #14 would be bigger than a #12. I would try a #10 or #12 sheetmetal screw.

NO 14 is smaller than #12. Basically screws follow AWG [American Wire Gauge] standards sort of. Bigger # smaller screw/wire. # 000 is HUGE and big too.

You could hold a swing up with a #10 :)

Try a auto parts store like a NAPA, or maybe even autozone.

Bear!

NO 14 is smaller than #12. Basically screws follow AWG [American Wire Gauge] standards sort of. Bigger # smaller screw/wire. # 000 is HUGE and big too.

You could hold a swing up with a #10 :)

Try a auto parts store like a NAPA, or maybe even autozone.

Bear!

I beg to differ... :)

Take a look at this attachment. Notice the "nominal size" shown under the screw size.

I engineer products with sheet metal screws on a daily basis, and as the numbers go up, the size does too. Eventually you reach a point (typically #14) where they switch to fractional sizes.

Sheet metal gauges, on the other hand, act like you describe above - smaller gauges are thicker.

Somebody must have some documentation that shows the actuall screws used.

Your right :o

He propably could get away with sheet rock screws to hold his lamp door.
I think they go into clips.

Your right :o

He propably could get away with sheet rock screws to hold his lamp door.
I think they go into clips.

In reality, the screws look like they are designed for plastic (the threads don't extend very far past shank of the screw). I think just about any screw will work, provided you get the right size.

Anyway, enough of "Screw Talk"!

Finally had to have my 20 month old 52525 repaired to fix a random reset problem I've been living with for 6 months but had gotten much worse recently. After some over-the-phone troubleshooting with technical support, it was determined that the DM Board probably needed replacement. Technician came over a week later and replaced the board. Problem fixed; no resets since. Repair cost was $380 for the board plus 2 hours labor. The DM Board is in the center of the electronics chassis. The chassis had to be removed and almost completely disassembled to reach it, hence the 2 hours. I thought that perhaps dust buildup on the board may have caused it to fail, but it looked pristine at the time of removal. However, the adjacent board was filthy, probably because it sits directly below the DM Fan which pulls unfiltered air through the cabinet around the chassis area. The DM Fan is the one that runs even with the set turned off.

It's unfortunate that a major component failed after only 4000 hours of usage, but it seems to be just bad luck on my part as hardly anyone here is reporting major component failures on units out of factory warranty.

The DM is a complex board. Failures likely have little to do with age. What is unfortunate, IMO is that so few techs and manufacturers look beyond replacing the module and that the module is so hard to get to. If it was more accessible it would make sense to attempt repair at the component level. I just fixed the DM on an older set that was damaged by a power surge or lightning that just had a few damaged filter capacitors. You got a good deal on the board, as the retail on that DM is about $530.

The DM is a complex board. Failures likely have little to do with age. What is unfortunate, IMO is that so few techs and manufacturers look beyond replacing the module and that the module is so hard to get to. If it was more accessible it would make sense to attempt repair at the component level. I just fixed the DM on an older set that was damaged by a power surge or lightning that just had a few damaged filter capacitors. You got a good deal on the board, as the retail on that DM is about $530.
He probably dropped the price of the board down to cost plus freight to keep the overall bill amount at an acceptable level. Either that or he gave me a discount because of what happened during the repair visit. After replacing the board but before putting the chassis back in place, he turned the set on to test operation. The screen came up with an error message and shut off. Something about a cooling problem. We noticed the DM Fan wasn't turning at all. He checked the fan harness, found it connected to the fan, and then began to sound worried. He was late for his next appointment and I for work so he agreed to come back on a Saturday. Anyway, that night I decided to poke around to see if I could spot anything that might be causing the problem. Sure enough, the other end of the DM Fan harness was not plugged into the DM Board, but rather was pinched behind the board and the bracket it's mounted to. I was able to wiggle the connector end out from behind the board and plug it into where it had to go without disassembling the chassis assembly. I turned the set back on and it worked. I then reassembled the rest of the chassis, put it back into the set and closed the set up. I saved him at least an hours worth of work on a Saturday (unless, of course, he was going to charge me for that mistake).

I've followed this thread since we got our Mitsu. In the year and half that I have owned the set, we have had to have the mirror cleaned twice. Now it's showing the signs that it needs it again.

Other than having to remove the front of the set and clean the mirrors, has anyone heard of anything to fix the problem? I've seen a lot of discussion about how to clean it, but little about fixing it. Has Mitsubishi said anything about a solution?

I've followed this thread since we got our Mitsu. In the year and half that I have owned the set, we have had to have the mirror cleaned twice. Now it's showing the signs that it needs it again.

Other than having to remove the front of the set and clean the mirrors, has anyone heard of anything to fix the problem? I've seen a lot of discussion about how to clean it, but little about fixing it. Has Mitsubishi said anything about a solution?

I would suggest that the next time you remove the screen (or have it removed), apply some tape (I used electrical tape) around the area of the foam block that is supposed to seal the area around the back of the projection lens assembly.

Look at the picture I am attaching. You can be pretty sure that your TV will have the same issue where the grey foam block around the projector lens has pulled away on the right side of the lens. I applied electrical tape in several strips across the opening to plug it up (don't bother trying to reattach the foam block - it won't stick).

I haven't cleaned my mirror in at least a year, and I really don't see any signs of dust (yet).

I would suggest that the next time you remove the screen (or have it removed), apply some tape (I used electrical tape) around the area of the foam block that is supposed to seal the area around the back of the projection lens assembly.

Have you used anything other then electrical tape with good results? The reason I ask is because I'm having the same issue, mirror was cleaned not too long ago and needs it again. I have gaff tape coming out of my ears and was thinking of using that in my case, it doesn't leave a residue like duc tape and some types of electrical tape. But if there has been any bad experiences using that style of tape in this that would be nice to know before hand.

Thanks :D

Have you used anything other then electrical tape with good results? The reason I ask is because I'm having the same issue, mirror was cleaned not too long ago and needs it again. I have gaff tape coming out of my ears and was thinking of using that in my case, it doesn't leave a residue like duc tape and some types of electrical tape. But if there has been any bad experiences using that style of tape in this that would be nice to know before hand.

Thanks :D

I don't really have an answer for that one. Honestly, mine hasn't been apart since I placed the tape in there. I can't imagine that any tape would cause a problem as long as it doesn't leave a residue. Even if it does leave a residue, is that a big deal (unless you want to hide any evidence that you have been behind the screen and possibly avoid warranty problems).

I've cleaned twice since Sept '04, the most recent being last week. Just installed duct tape on this last cleaning. Also ordered a new bulb from Mits, since mine started flickering. Shaking the bulb didn't resolve the flickering completely. Something just north of 4400 hours on the bulb.

Not too pleased with the apparent maintenance costs if bulbs are on a 24 month replacement cycle at $260 bulb. That's $10+ per month...

Even if it does leave a residue, is that a big deal (unless you want to hide any evidence that you have been behind the screen and possibly avoid warranty problems).

That's kind of where my thought is, the tech was just over to clean the mirror/s, I don't know how anal this guy is about a non "certified" person getting in side and messing around.
Thanks! :)

Thanks for the responses.

Spiff72, I had seen your picture before. That was one thing that I planned to ask the tech to do. So far my cleanings have all been covered under my extended warranty. So I don't want to screw that up. It even covers replacing bulbs for the first 4 years. I've already had a replacement bulb installed this year (same time as the last cleaning).

One thing that I was wondering about was whether anyone had complained of this problem to Mitsubishi. I was just curious what their response might be.

Thanks for the responses.

Spiff72, I had seen your picture before. That was one thing that I planned to ask the tech to do. So far my cleanings have all been covered under my extended warranty. So I don't want to screw that up. It even covers replacing bulbs for the first 4 years. I've already had a replacement bulb installed this year (same time as the last cleaning).

One thing that I was wondering about was whether anyone had complained of this problem to Mitsubishi. I was just curious what their response might be.

Glad you guys can get the techs to clean your mirrors. I had to do battle with Warrantech and Ultimate Electronics for three weeks to get them to honor the free maintenance visit I was promised as part of my extended warranty (when UE pulled out of Texas it screwed everything up, apparently). So today I stay home to meet the tech, and when he gets here he said he isn't allowed to open up DLPs to clean them! I sat around all morning waiting for him to get here, look at the bulb, tell me I have a good picture, and that's it. I have already sent UE a nasty-gram regarding this...let's just say that I am less than happy. :mad:

I should note that Warrantech offered to send me $70 in lieu of the maintenance visit...who knew that would have been the smart way to go??? I had hoped to watch a tech do the cleaning the first time, then do it myself in the future. Looks like I'll have to just take the notes posted here (thanks again, everyone!) and give it a try myself. I am so very glad this forum is here....

-Randy

... I have already sent UE a nasty-gram regarding this...let's just say that I am less than happy. :mad:

...

-Randy

I used to buy thousands of dollars worth of stuff from UE until about 2004 when I was treated so poorly by the manager of the local UE in Albuquerque. I will never buy another thing from them and don't recommend them to anyone.

Shaking the bulb didn't resolve the flickering completely. Something just north of 4400 hours on the bulb. Following up on this post....

After several hours of run time, the flickering has indeed quit (so far) after the bulb shake. Maybe it takes some time for the mercury to be re-vaporized after disbursing it with the shaking. Of course, this was discovered AFTER I had already ordered a replacement bulb....

I did not notice any better brightness.

Would like to get a useful thread going on settings with similar setup

PLEASE post IDEAL cable connections.

Powerstrip command settings.

Mitsubishi TV settings.

PLEASE ADVISE!!

I had this setup working great not long ago, then updated the LATEST as of this date ATI drivers and put in a Fusion card. The output does not look that great as before and is not completely square on the screen. Needs to turn clockwise 10deg. Im using the 1200 X 666 setting as before.
Using DVI(ATI card) to HDMI(TV).

Also, using a Fusion HDT5 gold card and have noticed the Analog quality is not that great. Will try adding a preamp before going into card tonight.

Mitsubishi WD-62725
ATI Radeon X850
Fusion HDTV 5 Gold tuner
DVI (Video card) to HDMI(TV) cable.
Windows XP-
Beyond TV -(Has anyone got the Fusion remote to work with this Beyond)?



Lets help each other .. :D

Feel free to also contact me.

Mobile (512)589-3227
WilsonbATpoboxDOTKOM
AOL screen name; WilsonIsON
MSN - Wilsonbradley

Is it best just to disable the ATI software? It doesn't seem very helpful and seems to get in the way.

How would I disable it?

Monitor
Windows description......... Plug and Play Monitor
Manufacturer description.... MEUSPTV3
Manufacturer................ Mitsubishi
————————————————————————————
Plug and Play ID............ MEL31B1
Serial number............... n/a
EDID data source............ I2C bus (real-time)
————————————————————————————
Manufacture date............ 2004, ISO week 17
EDID revision............... 1.3
Display type and signal..... Digital
Sync input support.......... n/a
Screen size................. n/a
Power management............ Active off/sleep

Color characteristics
Display gamma............... 2.20
Red chromaticity............ Rx 0.640 - Ry 0.330
Green chromaticity.......... Gx 0.300 - Gy 0.600
Blue chromaticity........... Bx 0.150 - By 0.060
White point (default)....... Wx 0.313 - Wy 0.329

Timing characteristics
VESA GTF support............ Not supported
Horizontal scan range....... 15-45kHz
Vertical scan range......... 59-61Hz
Video bandwidth............. 80MHz
Extension blocks............ 1
Timing recommendation #1.... 1280x720 at 60Hz
Modeline................ "1280x720" 74.250 1280 1390 1430 1650 720 725 730 750 +hsync +vsync
Timing recommendation #2.... 1920x540 at 60Hz
Modeline................ "1920x540" 74.250 1920 2008 2052 2200 540 542 547 562 +hsync +vsync
Timing recommendation #3.... 1920x1080 at 30Hz
Modeline................ "1920x1080" 74.250 1920 2008 2052 2200 1080 1084 1094 1124 interlace +hsync +vsync
Timing recommendation #4.... 720x480 at 60Hz
Modeline................ "720x480" 27.000 720 736 798 858 480 489 495 525 -hsync -vsync
Timing recommendation #5.... 1440x240 at 60Hz
Modeline................ "1440x240" 27.000 1440 1478 1602 1716 240 244 247 262 -hsync -vsync
Timing recommendation #6.... 1440x480 at 30Hz
Modeline................ "1440x480" 27.000 1440 1478 1602 1716 480 488 494 524 interlace -hsync -vsync
Timing recommendation #7.... 720x480 at 60Hz
Modeline................ "720x480" 27.000 720 736 798 858 480 489 495 525 -hsync -vsync
Timing recommendation #8.... 1440x240 at 60Hz
Modeline................ "1440x240" 27.000 1440 1478 1602 1716 240 244 247 262 -hsync -vsync
Timing recommendation #9.... 1440x480 at 30Hz
Modeline................ "1440x480" 27.000 1440 1478 1602 1716 480 488 494 524 interlace -hsync -vsync

Standard timings supported
640 x 480 at 60Hz - IBM VGA
720 x 480 at 60Hz - Mitsubishi
1280 x 720 at 60Hz - Mitsubishi
1440 x 240 at 60Hz - Mitsubishi
1440 x 480 at 30Hz - Mitsubishi
1920 x 540 at 60Hz - Mitsubishi
1920 x 1080 at 30Hz - Mitsubishi

Raw EDID base
00: 00 FF FF FF FF FF FF 00 34 AC B1 31 01 01 01 01
10: 11 0E 01 03 80 00 00 78 2A EE 91 A3 54 4C 99 26
20: 0F 50 54 20 00 00 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01
30: 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 1D 00 72 51 D0 1E 20 6E 28
40: 55 00 C4 8E 21 00 00 1E 01 1D 80 18 71 1C 16 20
50: 58 2C 25 00 C4 8E 21 00 00 9E 00 00 00 FD 00 3B
60: 3D 0F 2D 08 00 0A 20 20 20 20 20 20 00 00 00 FC
70: 00 4D 45 55 53 50 54 56 33 0A 20 20 20 20 01 88

Raw EDID extension (CEA-861)
00: 02 03 1A 72 47 84 05 02 03 01 07 06 23 09 07 07
10: 83 01 00 00 65 03 0C 00 10 00 8C 0A D0 8A 20 E0
20: 2D 10 10 3E 96 00 C4 8E 21 00 00 18 8C 0A A0 14
30: 51 F0 16 00 26 7C 43 00 C4 8E 21 00 00 98 8C 0A
40: D0 8A 20 E0 2D 10 10 3E 96 00 13 8E 21 00 00 18
50: 8C 0A A0 14 51 F0 16 00 26 7C 43 00 13 8E 21 00
60: 00 98 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
70: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 52

EIA/CEA-861 Information
Revision number............. 3
DTV underscan............... Not supported
Basic audio................. Supported
YCbCr 4:4:4................. Supported
YCbCr 4:2:2................. Supported
Native formats supported.... 2
DTV formats supported....... 7

CE standard timings supported
1280 x 720p at 59.94/60Hz (16:9) - HDTV (Native)
1920 x 1080i at 59.94/60Hz (16:9) - HDTV
720 x 480p at 59.94/60Hz (4:3) - EDTV
720 x 480p at 59.94/60Hz (16:9) - EDTV
640 x 480p at 59.94/60Hz (4:3) - Default
720 x 480i at 59.94/60Hz (16:9) - Doublescan
720 x 480i at 59.94/60Hz (4:3) - Doublescan

Display adapter
Adapter description......... RADEON X850 Series
Adapter device ID........... 0x4B4B1002
Display settings............ 1184x666, 32bpp

User/computer information
Registered user name........ Wilson
Registered organization..... n/a
Network user name........... Wilson
Network computer name....... MEDIA
Windows version ............ Windows XP
Windows build .............. 5.01.2600 Service Pack 2
Installation date .......... 12/1/2005 12:00:00 PM

I've had my 52725 for maybe 8 months or so, and really enjoy it, and have had very little issue with it. In the last week or so I've noticed that the color will be fine, but then flicker to a greenish tint and back to normal color again. It will do it rapidly, and not on an even pattern. The picture still is clear and bright, but the color will have this flicker effect. It seems to happen on all channels. In addition, the problem is regular, but sporadic, so that it will have periods of being fine, then have a period of color irregularity.

Thanks in advance for any advice on how to troubleshoot this.

Anyone know how to turn the image from counter clockwise? Is there an app. Does Powerstrip have this feature in it?
My specs are posted two messages up from this one.

Thanks

yes! the tilt problem can be corrected there is a thumbscrew that has to be turned with a 4mm allen wrench behind the front panel. this requires you to take the speaker grilles off and unscrewing the besel. horizontal adjustment is the right side thumbscrew. you can go into the "submenu" and make corrections with horizontal and vertical as well.

Read above quote.

There is more info available in this thread. At the top right of this page there is a "search this thread" option, just under the page numbers. Type in "tilt" or "screen tilt" or "tilt problem" etc.......

The bulb in my 52725 just gave out after 3K hours and 1.5 years. I knew it would happen someday but was hoping it wouldn't be so soon. :(

quenting, every once in a long while my TV showed a purple hue to everything until I changed inputs or resolutions (HD to SD). That always fixed the problem.

yes! the tilt problem can be corrected there is a thumbscrew that has to be turned with a 4mm allen wrench behind the front panel. this requires you to take the speaker grilles off and unscrewing the besel. horizontal adjustment is the right side thumbscrew. you can go into the "submenu" and make corrections with horizontal and vertical as well.

Can you also use this adjustment to correct overscan? I heard that you can't correct overscan on a DLP TV.

I was trying to find the exact message with photos for details on getting to the thumbscrews. For hours now iv'e been seeping through the thread..
Could someone post the message # that has detailed description and photos to adjust the tilt?

This forum, is hard to search through since this thread is so huge. Maybe making a link or sticky for those notes somewhere. Or have a seperate forum group for Mitsubishi WD XX725 owners thread with sub folders.


Thanks for the info

Thanks.

Also, could not find instructions on getting into the submenu.

Thanks

The post might actually be in the 2004 Mits DLP thread....

It is at least year and a half back, I would guess.

Follow the links in this post:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4494761&&#post4494761

Following up on this post....

After several hours of run time, the flickering has indeed quit (so far) after the bulb shake Well, so much for that theory.... It returned after several more days. So I put in the new bulb from Mits and all is well again - "like new".

Anyone out there had a bad experience using regular Nashua duct tape around the projector to fix the sticky foam failure? I know the theory about residue, but does anyone have actual experience with it being a problem?

I know that this was probably asked a couple of times already, but. I have a WD-52725 that has over 5000+ hours on the lamp. It seems to me that the brightness is less than when I bought the set. Is this one of the precursors to the lamp going south? Please let me know, so I can arrange to get a replacement.
Thanks for your help:

Lyle Parin

I know that this was probably asked a couple of times already, but. I have a WD-52725 that has over 5000+ hours on the lamp. It seems to me that the brightness is less than when I bought the set. Is this one of the precursors to the lamp going south? Please let me know, so I can arrange to get a replacement.
Thanks for your help:

Lyle Parin

Yes, a lot of people on this forum swear that cleaning the mirrors and changing the lamp make the TV as if it was new again. I haven't done either but my TV for now doesn't appear to be less bright.

Yes, a lot of people on this forum swear that cleaning the mirrors and changing the lamp make the TV as if it was new again. I haven't done either but my TV for now doesn't appear to be less bright.

I have had the mirrors cleaned by a very knowledgable tech. He did tape the area where the foam floats away from the lens. Haven't had another "smudge" problem since. So that leaves the lamp problem still in sight.
Thanks for the response.
Lyle

Well, I followed the instructions for making the shift screen. It still is off on the top. It goes inward tward the top of the screen. The two screens didn't rotate the screen completely. Helped a little but thats it..

I know that this was probably asked a couple of times already, but. I have a WD-52725 that has over 5000+ hours on the lamp. It seems to me that the brightness is less than when I bought the set. Is this one of the precursors to the lamp going south? Please let me know, so I can arrange to get a replacement.
Thanks for your help:

Lyle Parin

My lamp was pretty dim during the last few weeks before it went out. I don't know if it is a precursor or not but it certainly helps to have a spare on hand to minimize downtime. I'm suffering until my spare comes in. :(

My lamp was pretty dim during the last few weeks before it went out. I don't know if it is a precursor or not but it certainly helps to have a spare on hand to minimize downtime. I'm suffering until my spare comes in. :(

This gives me the info that I should order the replacment. Thanks. Should I wait till the bulb finally goes out or should I replace it when it still has a little life in it? It sure is dim looking at it now. Thanks again for your response.
I have replacment bulbs covered with my warrantee, so the order will go in today.
Thanks again!

Lyle

Well, I followed the instructions for making the shift screen. It still is off on the top. It goes inward tward the top of the screen. The two screens didn't rotate the screen completely. Helped a little but thats it..
Try this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4494761&&#post4494761 Oops. Sorry Spiff, didn't notice you had already posted this.

Selling my WD-52725, along with matching base (MB-52825) in glossy, piano black finish. If interested, PM me or check out ebay. Search for: Mitsubishi WD-52725 52" HDTV w/ black stand. Thanks!

isn't there a "1st year" maintenance that comes with the 725? Something to do with they will come out to clean the tv? I remember seeing it in the past, but can not find it now.............

fishguts,

I already read the instructions to do it. I think my situation is the below part mentioned, except the pin cushion is bigger than 1/16 inch.

"I was able to get everything square to within 1/16 inch. The resulting 1/16 inch is caused by the "pincushion effect", where the centers of the verticals and horizontals bow inward or outward slightly. This is inherent in most DLPs and is not correctable (as far as I know)."

OK. Yes, mine has slight pincushion effect, barely noticeable, also. I just interpreted your post to mean you had adusted the two keystone adjustments, but not the rotation adjustment that is accessible behind the card reader. Sounds as if you have done all you can do. My pincushion slight bowing out at the bottom of the screen only visible with internal test pattern, not discernible watching TV.

Hard to believe that my 62725 is almost two years old! I still have a slight bright spot, but other than that, it has turned out to be a nice set.

I'm a little surprised that my bulb hasn't burned out in almost two years of watching. Have many of you replaced your bulbs yet? Is there a DIY for bulb replacement?

I remember someone posting a link to a service manual that shows how to read the bulb life on a 62725. I think it listed the on-time in hours. Could someone post a link to that page.

Thanks!

I replaced my bulb a few weeks ago. It's definitely DIY. The only tools you need are your hands, a #2 philips, and a coin.

All the instructions are right there as soon as you pull off the front speaker grill. I don't think it would take more than 15 minutes for even the most technically uninclined.

(FYI, I was quoted $160 for labor from a service tech.)

I replaced my bulb a few weeks ago. It's definitely DIY. The only tools you need are your hands, a #2 philips, and a coin.

All the instructions are right there as soon as you pull off the front speaker grill. I don't think it would take more than 15 minutes for even the most technically uninclined.

(FYI, I was quoted $160 for labor from a service tech.)Thanks for the info!

Where did you get the replacement bulb?

I ordered straight from Mits and it was delivered in a week.

Mits 62525 here... Purchased Oct 2004... No hint of even the slightest bright spot.
Wife watches it every night, and we're still on first bulb.
Have upgraded firmware 3 times.... V 4.05 firmware since ~ February of 2005.
One mirror cleaning with wife's help a few months ago, just prior to the info about taping the foam.... (We'll get that next time!) .

We're using all 3 YUV inputs, DVI, 2 SVideo (The one in front along with firewire to control camcorder).

Love the individual video settings per video icon.

All in all I'd say this is probably the BEST purchase I've ever made!!!

So I have spent an hour reading through this long thread looking for a resolution to the green push problems. Must of what I found was back in '04. I have the 52725 with an Oppo DVD player hooked up over the HDMI/DVI cable. I only see the push with the DVD, not on the HD cable. I spent some time working with the oppo and have made huge progress. There is still green hue to most all the black scenes. Have there been any revolations in the past couple months on how to deal with the green tint? I have my color settings based off of research dont here. I guess maybe I should get off my butt and get the Avia or GetGrey calibration disk? Not sure what my firmware is, but I purchased the TV in 9/05. I know there is a post on here on how to check it....

scheerce,

Definitely get a calibration disk. It will help you set your color levels. Even if it doesn't fix your problem, it will eliminate your TV settings as the root cause.

FYI, I have an Oppo and don't notice any greenish blacks.

Thanks for the info pdubyu. I think I am going to support the GetGrey disk. Looks like it makes more sence for a DLP set.

I ordered straight from Mits and it was delivered in a week.Thanks! I called up their 800 Parts number and the recorded message mentioned their Parts web site. Here's a link to the page where the bulb is for sale.

http://www.mitsuparts.com/parts/store/searchpage.cfm?ACTIONTYPE=Results&CATEGORY=Consumer%20Model&SEARCHFIELD=ModelCategory&CRITERIA=MISC1&RECORDSCOUNTER=40

This is the actual page for the replacement bulb for the 62725. It is now about as expensive as I thought.

Part No: 915P026010
Price: $249.00

My original post was for the remote as corrected below. I'm glad I didn't buy it! Mits web site could be a little friendlier to navigate.

Thanks! I called up their 800 Parts number and the recorded message mentioned their Parts web site. Here's a link to the page where the bulb is for sale.

http://www.mitsuparts.com/parts/store/searchpage.cfm?ACTIONTYPE=Results&CATEGORY=Consumer%20Model&SEARCHFIELD=ModelCategory&CRITERIA=MISC1&RECORDSCOUNTER=10

It's not as expensive as I thought it might be.

I think $250.00 is expensive for a bulb. What did you think it was going to cost?

$250 is the price for the bulb. You must have been looking at the "REMOTE" line.

$250 is the price for the bulb. You must have been looking at the "REMOTE" line.Yes, you are correct. Thanks... :) :) :)

I corrected my original post so it wouldn't confuse others.

I recently bought a 52725 without a remote. Since my wife refuses to learn to use my universal, is there anybody here willing to part with theirs(cheap or possibly free)?

Does anyone know the part number for a replacement Anti-Glare Diamond Shield. My kids have done a number on my current one and I'm thinking about replacing it. Are there other alternatives other than the Mitsu Anti-Glare Diamond Shield?

Thanks

Call Mitsubishi parts at 800-553-7278.

I have a weird problem and am wondering if anyone else has experienced this with their TV -- or knows how to get rid of it.

When I use PIP the "sub picture" has TERRIBLE color. It's especially annoying when I have two large side by side frames.

What happens is that whatever is in the sub frame(s) has a very heavy, noticable red tint. This is not from the source, because if I exchange the sources the picture that was red is now clear and vice versa.

It's as if the PIP frame has its own set of color adjustments, but as far as I know there is no such thing.

Any thoughts?
For anyone who may experience this problem...

Tech came and determined there was a problem with the logic board. Mits sent a replacement and it had a broken connector. So Mits sent a new chasis. I have a new chasis and while the problem is better, it doesn't seem to be completely eliminated. I haven't adjusted the colors on the set yet, that may help the red tint go away.

All done under warranty.

I just had a tech finish working on my TV. But I don't think he put it back together correctly.

Behind the speaker grille, in the center of the TV, is a black plastic removable panel. If you look at the attached photo you will notice that he has tucked the top of the black panel in behind a gray panel that extends from the bottom of the screen. You have to see the picture to see what I mean, I drew a circle around it.

I don't recall my TV looking like this before. I recall the black panel being completely in front so that the whole thing is visible.

I'd appreciate it if a couple of you would please check your sets and tell me if your TV looks like mine or if the center black panel is completely exposed!

Thanks!

The black panel should be in front of the silver.

The black panel should be in front of the silver.
Thanks for confirming this!

If anyone else is willing to lend one minute of their time, I'd REALLY appreciate it if you would post a photo of your set. I need photos of the same area of the TV as in the picture I posted, but yours should show that the correct placement of the center black panel is in front. All you have to do is take the speaker grill off and take a pic of the black panel above the card reader. Here is my original post with my photo:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8191501&&#post8191501

I expect the tech who put my TV together incorrectly will deny that there is anything wrong. I can insist that he put it together wrong until I'm blue in the face, but if I have a couple of pictures to show him, that would go a lot farther in helping me get this fixed.

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU in advance!!!!

[QUOTE=uscpsycho]Thanks for confirming this!


I expect the tech who put my TV together incorrectly will deny that there is anything wrong. I can insist that he put it together wrong until I'm blue in the face, but if I have a couple of pictures to show him, that would go a lot farther in helping me get this fixed.

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU in advance!!!![/QUOTE

How can I say this delicately?
The TV apparently doesn't care. If It is a federal case for you just fix it and move on.
The more you yank the service techs chain over a silly problem the more difficult it will be the next time you need service. Stop obsessing. :rolleyes:

Bear!

Thanks for confirming this!

If anyone else is willing to lend one minute of their time, I'd REALLY appreciate it if you would post a photo of your set. I need photos of the same area of the TV as in the picture I posted, but yours should show that the correct placement of the center black panel is in front. All you have to do is take the speaker grill off and take a pic of the black panel above the card reader. Here is my original post with my photo:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8191501&&#post8191501

I expect the tech who put my TV together incorrectly will deny that there is anything wrong. I can insist that he put it together wrong until I'm blue in the face, but if I have a couple of pictures to show him, that would go a lot farther in helping me get this fixed.

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU in advance!!!!

Here you go...I don't know if it is going to help much...

Edit: I realized that pic was pretty useless to you...attached a new one that should work better...

How can I say this delicately?
The TV apparently doesn't care. If It is a federal case for you just fix it and move on.
The more you yank the service techs chain over a silly problem the more difficult it will be the next time you need service. Stop obsessing. :rolleyes:
Bear!
You are wrong about this. It does make a difference to the TV.

Maybe I should have mentioned this in the first place. But the reason I need this problem corrected is that my geometry cannot be fixed so long as the black panel is installed this way.

The TV's geometry adjustmets are directly behind the black plastic panel. After adjusting the geometry, it is impossible to re-attach the black center panel (the way the tech installed it) without jamming the panel against the geometry controls. This screws up the geometry. You also have to use a lot of force to jam it up there, it's just not right.

Why don't I just remove the black panel and screw it in front myself? Well, the screen wasn't installed correctly, so that silver piece of plastic you see in my photo sticks out too far, so I can't screw the black piece in front, it has to be jammed up in back.

This is not a silly problem and I am not obsessing. And I am not going to reinstall the screen myself.

You are wrong about this. It does make a difference to the TV.

Maybe I should have mentioned this in the first place. But the reason I need this problem corrected is that my geometry cannot be fixed so long as the black panel is installed this way.

The TV's geometry adjustmets are directly behind the black plastic panel. After adjusting the geometry, it is impossible to re-attach the black center panel (the way the tech installed it) without jamming the panel against the geometry controls. This screws up the geometry. You also have to use a lot of force to jam it up there, it's just not right.

Why don't I just remove the black panel and screw it in front myself? Well, the screen wasn't installed correctly, so that silver piece of plastic you see in my photo sticks out too far, so I can't screw the black piece in front, it has to be jammed up in back.

This is not a silly problem and I am not obsessing. And I am not going to reinstall the screen myself.

If it was me, and I needed to take a day off from work to get the tech to come back and correct it, I would fix it myself. I have had the screen off mine a couple of times, and it isn't that hard to do...

If it was me, and I needed to take a day off from work to get the tech to come back and correct it, I would fix it myself. I have had the screen off mine a couple of times, and it isn't that hard to do...
As far as I can tell screen removal is not a one man operation (at least not on a 62") so I'm not going to attempt to do this myself.

I didn't mention this before, but this is also a brand new screen. The original one had developed some gunk sandwiched between the screen and the glare shield. The tech said he couldn't clean it so he ordered me a new screen. This is the first time the screen has been attached to a TV and the tech had quite a bit of trouble attaching it, so perhaps the screen itself has a defect that is causing the problem. If that's the case I'm liable to break something rather than making the situation better.

I've had a million problems with this TV and I would prefer for the tech to fix this one. I'd like to have a second photo, so if someone else would be kind enough to post one I'd really appreciate it!

Thanks!

I can under stand the new replacement screen issue and the plot thickens as its not just the door/panel install problem.
When I had this 62''TV before I went to the 1080p/62" I pulled the shield and the screen, cleaned the mirrors, split the screen, replaced the seal, and adjusted it, alone. And I'm a auto mechanic/engineer/car builder/gearhead. Though I have worked on a lot more complicated things than this TV. So for the life of me I can't understand why a experienced {?} MITS tech would have so much trouble and then screw it up. It really is simple and straight forward, especially the screen.
Now that you have detailed the situation I can sympathize with you a little. Is the TV really wacked out and not working right or is it just a principle thing?

Bear!

R.I.P. my first WD 62525 dlp bulb blew last night. Came home utrned t set on and I heard a small pow! The rede light came on and nothing on screen. It almost made 9000 hours. 8940 to be exact by the service menu info. pretty good on average I guess. I had the spare waiting i had gotten from Mits a few months ago. Cost $125. had called they wanted $250+shipping, i balked since it was barely out of 12 month warranty and they offered $200, then transferred to the csr mangaer and he offered to send me a refund check for $75 so totaled $125.

unplugged the set and cleaned the filter on the left side then changed the lamp, the filter was not dirty as i usually clean it every 4 months anyway. It went smoothly except the original was missing one of the 3 screws holding the lamp in place, missing the top right screw, So much for Mits Quality control......... Plugged it back in and turned on set came on quickly and had the Did you replace the lamp question, said yes and all is good. Definatley a nice clean bright picture, good as new.

The blown lamp had a white haze around the edge of the lamp and definately blown with 3-4 broken small pebbles of glass inside.

Funny thing the mits rep said i was told when i bought the set it would need lamp replacements during it's service lifetime. I said no way, that did not happen. he said it was a requirement of Mits dealer sales to advise customers the lamp would need replacing.
There is no way every mits dealer is telling every customer they will require lamp replacements when they buy any of these Mits dlp sets.

There is no way every mits dealer is telling every customer they will require lamp replacements when they buy any of these Mits dlp sets.

Every dealer I talked to when I was looking at all sorts of DLPs including Mits mentioned it to me....

[img=http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/6756/mitswd62525frontpanelpic2wm4.th.jpg] (http://img89.imageshack.us/my.php?image=mitswd62525frontpanelpic2wm4.jpg)

hey usc sorry you are having troubles with your set. here is another pic for you of the front panel from a WD 62525. hope thats what you need.

[img=http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/6756/mitswd62525frontpanelpic2wm4.th.jpg] (http://img89.imageshack.us/my.php?image=mitswd62525frontpanelpic2wm4.jpg)

hey usc sorry you are having troubles with your set. here is another pic for you of the front panel from a WD 62525. hope thats what you need.
THANK YOU!

Okay, I did a search and believe I found my answer, but I want to make sure that I understand it correctly. I just hooked up my new HD-A1 HD-DVD player to my Mits with an HDMI cable...from what I read, the digital coax output will *not* send the digital audio to the receiver...is that correct? I can get sound through the TV speakers, but not the receiver. I'm trying digital coax from the HD-A1 to my receiver and striking out, too, so far, but that is a whole other issue...

If somebody could confirm that for me, I'd appreciate it...

-Randy

IFLYSWA: That is correct. The digital coax output is only going to work for the internal ATSC tuners. It's really sad that it doesn't pass thru the HDMI digital audio signal. ;(

IFLYSWA: That is correct. The digital coax output is only going to work for the internal ATSC tuners. It's really sad that it doesn't pass thru the HDMI digital audio signal. ;(

That is sad, but I was afraid that was the case. Thanks for the confirmation...

-Randy

Okay, I did a search and believe I found my answer, but I want to make sure that I understand it correctly. I just hooked up my new HD-A1 HD-DVD player to my Mits with an HDMI cable...from what I read, the digital coax output will *not* send the digital audio to the receiver...is that correct? I can get sound through the TV speakers, but not the receiver. I'm trying digital coax from the HD-A1 to my receiver and striking out, too, so far, but that is a whole other issue...

If somebody could confirm that for me, I'd appreciate it...

-Randy

How does that DVD player look via HDMI? I don't know if I can ever use my HDMI input because it looks so "washed out"...

How does that DVD player look via HDMI? I don't know if I can ever use my HDMI input because it looks so "washed out"...

In my very limited time with it, I'd have to say awesome. No complaints, at all. This is my first trial of the HDMI port, so I can't say if it is different with this player than it would be with other devices, but I am very, very happy with this particular situation...I even figured out exactly how I was being stupid in not getting the audio to my receiver via digital coax... :D

-Randy

I have a WD-62525.
Has anyone ever had/heard of the QAM tuner failing and the NTSC tuner continue to function?
Thanks.

John Geis,
Has anyone ever had/heard of the QAM tuner failing and the NTSC tuner continue to function?

I have not. However, what you may be experiencing is that your cable provider may have moved your QAM channels over to a switched digital video network. Basically, if it's true, then you'd need a cable provider's set top box to tune into those channels now, unless they are provided OTA. Then just get an antenna and you'll see them crisper than ever!

This is maybe not the best link to describe this.. but it'll get you started:
http://www.ct-magazine.com/archives/ct/0206/0206_switcheddigitalvideo.htm

I didn't see this thread yesterday and posted the following in the general forum, but so far no responses. Any of you ever have this problem or have any suggestions?? Thanks for your help.

--------
So we've had our Mits WD-52725 for about a year and a half. Finally went to replace the lamp for the first time last night and when I pulled the old lamp out, the connectors that the lamp plugs in to on the tv are totally loose, so they're flipping to the left and the right -- almost impossible to get the new lamp in correctly. This has got to be a manufacturer's defect and I'm waiting on a call back from a Mits supervisor. After many rounds with Customer Relations, they had me call an authorized tech who agreed that replacing the lamp should be a very simple task and he can't imagine that I would have somehow damaged the connectors pulling the lamp out -- after all, the marketing materials promote this as a user-replaceable lamp. He quoted me an estimate of $250 to tighten the connectors + $225 for the service call! All this on top of the $250 for a new lamp.

So, my question -- is it possible to open up the back of the tv and see if I can tighten up the connectors that hold the lamp in place myself?? Otherwise, does anyone recommend a good service provider in the Dallas area?

I didn't see this thread yesterday and posted the following in the general forum, but so far no responses. Any of you ever have this problem or have any suggestions?? Thanks for your help.

--------
So we've had our Mits WD-52725 for about a year and a half. Finally went to replace the lamp for the first time last night and when I pulled the old lamp out, the connectors that the lamp plugs in to on the tv are totally loose, so they're flipping to the left and the right -- almost impossible to get the new lamp in correctly. This has got to be a manufacturer's defect and I'm waiting on a call back from a Mits supervisor. After many rounds with Customer Relations, they had me call an authorized tech who agreed that replacing the lamp should be a very simple task and he can't imagine that I would have somehow damaged the connectors pulling the lamp out -- after all, the marketing materials promote this as a user-replaceable lamp. He quoted me an estimate of $250 to tighten the connectors + $225 for the service call! All this on top of the $250 for a new lamp.

So, my question -- is it possible to open up the back of the tv and see if I can tighten up the connectors that hold the lamp in place myself?? Otherwise, does anyone recommend a good service provider in the Dallas area?

I do remember someone posting in these forums with the same problem. Unfortunately, I don't remember what the outcome was. (It may have been covered under an extended warranty, or even the factory warranty).

I didn't see this thread yesterday and posted the following in the general forum, but so far no responses. Any of you ever have this problem or have any suggestions?? Thanks for your help.

--------
So we've had our Mits WD-52725 for about a year and a half. Finally went to replace the lamp for the first time last night and when I pulled the old lamp out, the connectors that the lamp plugs in to on the tv are totally loose, so they're flipping to the left and the right -- almost impossible to get the new lamp in correctly. This has got to be a manufacturer's defect and I'm waiting on a call back from a Mits supervisor. After many rounds with Customer Relations, they had me call an authorized tech who agreed that replacing the lamp should be a very simple task and he can't imagine that I would have somehow damaged the connectors pulling the lamp out -- after all, the marketing materials promote this as a user-replaceable lamp. He quoted me an estimate of $250 to tighten the connectors + $225 for the service call! All this on top of the $250 for a new lamp.

So, my question -- is it possible to open up the back of the tv and see if I can tighten up the connectors that hold the lamp in place myself?? Otherwise, does anyone recommend a good service provider in the Dallas area?

Today is your lucky day...here is the post I remembered reading before:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6595535&&#post6595535

This person fixed it himself.

Complain to Mitsubishi customer relations. Insist that they cover it as it is an obvious assembly problem or if not, a faulty design that could present a liability problem.

geezz some $475 for an hour work with no parts just travel time and a little screwdriver work.

my origianl lamp was missing a screw last week when i replaced it, so even the little quality control at mits is asleep on the job.

hope you can get it fixed london with spiffs help in finding that post for ya. doesn't sound too complicated especially if you have decent access to back of the mits set.

Today is your lucky day...here is the post I remembered reading before:

...

This person fixed it himself.


This is great! I'm going to take a look at it tonight.

Thanks for your help, guys.

John Geis,


I have not. However, what you may be experiencing is that your cable provider may have moved your QAM channels over to a switched digital video network. Basically, if it's true, then you'd need a cable provider's set top box to tune into those channels now, unless they are provided OTA. Then just get an antenna and you'll see them crisper than ever!

This is maybe not the best link to describe this.. but it'll get you started:
http://www.ct-magazine.com/archives/ct/0206/0206_switcheddigitalvideo.htm

Thanks for the info! Unfortunately I can't get OTA at my location...kind of in a hole with a ton of very tall trees around me :( .

geezz some $475 for an hour work with no parts just travel time and a little screwdriver work

hope you can get it fixed london with spiffs help in finding that post for ya. doesn't sound too complicated especially if you have decent access to back of the mits set.


With special thanks to spiff, I was able to open up the back of the tv and get the lamp situated properly. Thanks for your help -- it saved us a nice chunk of money!

With special thanks to spiff, I was able to open up the back of the tv and get the lamp situated properly. Thanks for your help -- it saved us a nice chunk of money!

Nice! Glad I could help. :)

Is there someone who after taking their lamp out found it dirty, cleaned it and put it back into the TV?
My lamp didn't go out,( 06476 hours ) but the screen was getting so dim, I thought I'd replace the bulb. I did and it works wonders. But, the original lamp was, I noticed, pretty grimy with dust and all. I put it in the package that the new one came in. Could I have used the old one by cleaning the lens?
I plan on using this one for a backup, but just wondered if anyone has just cleaned the bulb and put it back in

Any response would be appreciated

Thanks:

Lyle

Give it a try and let us know.

most don't replace the lamp till it blows.

but many people on here have needed to clean the internal mirror and had much better picture quality due to the mirror having layer of dust and being filthy. and sealing around the mirror so it happens less frequently.

Is there someone who after taking their lamp out found it dirty, cleaned it and put it back into the TV?
My lamp didn't go out,( 06476 hours ) but the screen was getting so dim, I thought I'd replace the bulb. I did and it works wonders. But, the original lamp was, I noticed, pretty grimy with dust and all. I put it in the package that the new one came in. Could I have used the old one by cleaning the lens?
I plan on using this one for a backup, but just wondered if anyone has just cleaned the bulb and put it back in

Any response would be appreciated

Thanks:

Lyle

Someone posted that removing your lamp and shaking it can hep increase the brightness (to help redistribute the condensed material in the bulb?). I tried it and it made no difference (but my bulb looked fine to me - no dirt or dust, and the bulb itself didn't look like there was excessive condensate)...I have about 5000 hours on my TV right now.

most don't replace the lamp till it blows.

but many people on here have needed to clean the internal mirror and had much better picture quality due to the mirror having layer of dust and being filthy. and sealing around the mirror so it happens less frequently.

I cleaned mine after a year. Its considered routine matainance like cleaming the filter if so equiped but not as often. Early on in this thread there is plenty of discussion of this and the procedure. My room is not very dusty and it improved PQ a lot. I found a thin layer of dust and a slight film on the mirrors. The small mirror is really critical as it carries the whole image. Recomended ; NO glass cleaner or other liquid or spray. ONLY a DRY good micro-fiber polishing cloth. Found in the auto polish areas. In yor Mits owners man they list and sell a cleaner but I think that only for the screen and shield. Ask tech

Also most service contracts include a cleaning and adjustment . Mine[SEARS] incudes gray level adjust also. I did my own because I'm like that. :D

Bear!

most don't replace the lamp till it blows.

but many people on here have needed to clean the internal mirror and had much better picture quality due to the mirror having layer of dust and being filthy. and sealing around the mirror so it happens less frequently.

I had the mirrors cleaned about 8 months ago, and it worked great. The tech did the sealing with duct taped around the openings to the back of the unit also. So that problem has already been addressed. I used to have the famous smudges on the screen, and the mirror cleaning took care of that too.

This TV has really been great so far. I only had to have 1 module replaced, and the mirrors cleaned, and thats it for general maintainance.

I hope that it continues. That $3800.00 was a big chunk out of our budget. I'm just now starting to get bologna sandwiches instead of Spam. Ha! Ha!

Getting back to the bulb. If I could use the old one again, it would be a good backup until I could get another on my extended warrantee. I guess I am entitled to 2 on my 5 year policy. Got one already. I didn't shake it up like some of the posts suggest. Maybe that would have done the trick, to brighten it up a bit. Is that what shaking is suppose to do?

Thanks:

Lyle

The tech did the sealing with duct taped around the openings to the back of the unit also.

Lyle


I know about sealing up the area around the foam, but what else should be sealed up? Is there an area in the back of the unit that should be taped up also?

I know about sealing up the area around the foam, but what else should be sealed up? Is there an area in the back of the unit that should be taped up also?

No, not really. I just got a little wordy with that statement. He just taped what was suppose to be taped, around the lens.
Lyle

thx to dssturbo1 for helping me find this thread.

I will repost my question here to see if anyone has had the same problems. I bought the TV a year and a half ago and it died last week. The technicians are telling me it needs a new DM module. I asked what would cause such a quick failure and they said they didn't know. Any ideas? Has anyone had similar problems? We haven't had any electrical surges or storms. It's on a surge protector. Is this a common problem that I will have to keep fixing or was I unlucky enough to get a TV that had a bad module and it just happened to fail after the warranty was up.

Just a side note, I've had to clean the mirrors about once every 6-8 months.

. Is this a common problem that I will have to keep fixing or was I unlucky enough to get a TV that had a bad module and it just happened to fail after the warranty was up.

Just a side note, I've had to clean the mirrors about once every 6-8 months.

No, but it happens. Its only man made.
Unlucky?It wasn't a bad module till it failed. Unless you want to believe the conspiracy theory that there is a built in self destruct timer. :eek: :D
I just would not play the lotto this week. ;)

Bear!

thx to dssturbo1 for helping me find this thread.

I will repost my question here to see if anyone has had the same problems. I bought the TV a year and a half ago and it died last week. The technicians are telling me it needs a new DM module. I asked what would cause such a quick failure and they said they didn't know. Any ideas? Has anyone had similar problems? We haven't had any electrical surges or storms. It's on a surge protector. Is this a common problem that I will have to keep fixing or was I unlucky enough to get a TV that had a bad module and it just happened to fail after the warranty was up.

Just a side note, I've had to clean the mirrors about once every 6-8 months.
I had the DM Module fail on me a few months back as well. TV has been on surge protector and UPS since installation. When removed, the DM Module was visually in pristine condition (no dust accumulation). Someone in-the-know said it was the most complex board in the set (and it looked it), so chances of something failing on it is greater, I guess. Your situation isn't unique. Like me, you're just unlucky.

I had my DM module replaced as well but not because it failed completely. It was because I was hearing crackling noises in the audio when connected via HDMI. I think this is a widespread issue with the XX525's, XX725's but most people don't know about it because they don't use the HDMI input.

lujan: hey.. you're the first person I've heard that had that problem other than me! My DM Module was replaced as well.. on my 62725. HDMI crackling audio problem.

lujan: hey.. you're the first person I've heard that had that problem other than me! My DM Module was replaced as well.. on my 62725. HDMI crackling audio problem.

kyoo, are you the one that took pictures of the module when they replaced it? The pictures came in handy for the technician.

lujan, I did take photos, yes. I guess I sent them to you.. ;)

I have a WD-62525.
Has anyone ever had/heard of the QAM tuner failing and the NTSC tuner continue to function?
Thanks.
I have a 52725 set almost two years old. My ATSC tuner will not work but the ntsc will. The Tweeter tech is attempting to resolve the problem . Mits advised a software update to th 05 version but that did not help. Tech has now received a new tuner module to install on 9-15-06 which we hope will cure the problem

Ron

Did the atsc tuner just stop working? did it ever work? you are in an area that has good local stations digital signals? what antenna and how far from the towers are you?
did he check to make sure the antenna was going into ANT A input?

The ATSC tuner worked perfectly on all local ota channels until about three weeks ago when it quit suddenly. It is not an antenna problem as I can receive the analog channels perfectly. I guess we will see what happens when a new tuner module is installed 9-15-06. The tech says both tuners are contained in one module and cannot be replaced individually. I will advise results afterward. Thanks.

I've had the same problem with digital channels since a storm passed through last week. I guess that I'll have to call The Big Screen Store and have them come out for service.

I have a 52725 set almost two years old. My ATSC tuner will not work but the ntsc will. The Tweeter tech is attempting to resolve the problem . Mits advised a software update to th 05 version but that did not help. Tech has now received a new tuner module to install on 9-15-06 which we hope will cure the problem

Ron

Yeah, I talked to one of the "lead techs" at Mits last week and asked him if the two tuners are independent of each other and could fail outside of each other...he gave me a resounding yes, unfortunately I couldn't pick his brain for very long (work and poor cell reception). I should have posted that tidbit of info but it's been a hectic week. Let me know how that goes for you, looks like I'll need to go through the same fun :rolleyes:

I'd like to have access to a lead tech at Mitsubishi. Can you send me a PM with the telephone number. I know it's a long shot but thought I would ask anyway.

#1 just updated to the 4.05 software and my Mits Netcommand Channelview guide still seems to be spotty at best. Does it matter if the set is on or off or if the set is on OTA input as to how good the guide downloads? i rarely use ota or the guide but might need or use it if i add a mits 1100 dvhs deck

#2 anybody using a mits 1100 dvhs decks with their sets? can you watch a different input or say an analog channel while it records from a ota digital channel?

#3 or a toshiba 160HD4 hard drive firewire recorder thru the mits firewire set? someone emailed me that it worked with their mits set even though it is supposed to only work certain 2004 toshiba sets only. thanks for any help.

I've been trying to tweak my picture a little to get it as straight as possible. But I can't seem to get it there. I've heard people talking about tilt, but I don't believe this is my problem. Do I need to adjust the keystones to fix this problem?

Technically, you should use the rotate adjustment in the back of the light engine to fix that (very hard to get to!). However, I was able to use the keystone adjustments to fix that issue, or at least get it MUCH better than it was.

The ATSC tuner worked perfectly on all local ota channels until about three weeks ago when it quit suddenly. It is not an antenna problem as I can receive the analog channels perfectly. I guess we will see what happens when a new tuner module is installed 9-15-06. The tech says both tuners are contained in one module and cannot be replaced individually. I will advise results afterward. Thanks. I had the same problem, and I could not even re-auto-scan to pick up any digital channels. In my case, a simple A/C power cycle followed by another channel auto-scan brought them all back. Maybe a hard reset would have also worked, but removing the A/C and plugging it back in was the first thing I tried and it worked.

Before you go to all that trouble, try turning it off, wait for the light to stop flashing, then unplug the A/C power cord for 30 seconds. Plug it back in, wait for the light to stop flashing again, power it up, and re-auto-scan your channels.

Technically, you should use the rotate adjustment in the back of the light engine to fix that (very hard to get to!). However, I was able to use the keystone adjustments to fix that issue, or at least get it MUCH better than it was.

I've not got it within a 16th of on inch. I was able to use the keystone to make the adjustment. I might have a service tech adjust it at the light engine when I get my first annual cleaning.

I've not got it within a 16th of on inch. I was able to use the keystone to make the adjustment. I might have a service tech adjust it at the light engine when I get my first annual cleaning.

Did you mean you "now" got it within 1/16"? Not not? :D

Seriously, 1/16" is darn near perfect. I wouldn't sweat 1/16" at all.

Has anyone out there ever complained that their HDMI input was defective, and gotten it fixed/repaired?

It really is annoying that I have an HDMI input that is all washed out, putting me in a position that I simply don't want to use it. Component video looks much better.

I would like to use HDMI, since I have several devices that COULD use it, but the Mits implementation (I have the WD-62525) is just plain bad.