Mitsubishi WD XX725 owners thread [Text View] - Page 16

IFLYSWA

09-13-06, 07:06 PM

Has anyone out there ever complained that their HDMI input was defective, and gotten it fixed/repaired?

It really is annoying that I have an HDMI input that is all washed out, putting me in a position that I simply don't want to use it. Component video looks much better.

I would like to use HDMI, since I have several devices that COULD use it, but the Mits implementation (I have the WD-62525) is just plain bad.

Hi Spiff,
I finally used mine when I got my HD-DVD player, and it looks great. I'm not sure if I just lucked out or what, but so far I have no complaints. This is the first and only device I've hooked up to it, though. I don't guess that directly answers your question, but I thought you might want to know that at least one appears to be working okay....

-Randy

spiff72

09-13-06, 07:14 PM

Hi Spiff,
I finally used mine when I got my HD-DVD player, and it looks great. I'm not sure if I just lucked out or what, but so far I have no complaints. This is the first and only device I've hooked up to it, though. I don't guess that directly answers your question, but I thought you might want to know that at least one appears to be working okay....

-Randy

Randy,

Do you have the same model TV as I have (the xx525 series) or the xx725?

If so, I am wondering if they corrected these issues in the newer models.

I originally hooked up my Dish 811 receiver to the HDMI input (with a DVI-HDMI adapter cable), and was very disappointed. Blacks look like grays. I ended up using component video. I later got rid of the Dish, and bought an HDDVR from Sony. This one had an HDMI output, and I tried it first, but it was immediately apparent that the same was true on this device too - the initial setup menus have a black background, and I could tell that this was definitely a TV issue.

There were a lot of complaints about the HDMI input on the older Mits DLP xx525 thread (which has faded into oblivion)...

It just occurred to me that I might be able to leverage by extended warranty to see if I could get a fix for it (at the risk of waiting while they replace every part in the TV and never solve the problem).

It was just a thought! :D

EDIT: Maybe they would replace the whole TV if they can't fix it!

IFLYSWA

09-13-06, 07:38 PM

Randy,

Do you have the same model TV as I have (the xx525 series) or the xx725?

If so, I am wondering if they corrected these issues in the newer models.

I originally hooked up my Dish 811 receiver to the HDMI input (with a DVI-HDMI adapter cable), and was very disappointed. Blacks look like grays. I ended up using component video. I later got rid of the Dish, and bought an HDDVR from Sony. This one had an HDMI output, and I tried it first, but it was immediately apparent that the same was true on this device too - the initial setup menus have a black background, and I could tell that this was definitely a TV issue.

There were a lot of complaints about the HDMI input on the older Mits DLP xx525 thread (which has faded into oblivion)...

It just occurred to me that I might be able to leverage by extended warranty to see if I could get a fix for it (at the risk of waiting while they replace every part in the TV and never solve the problem).

It was just a thought! :D

EDIT: Maybe they would replace the whole TV if they can't fix it!

Yessir, I have a WD-62725, and have had it for approaching two years. It has a manufacture date of Sept. 2004. I'm even on my original firmware as I have had very few issues and subscribe to the 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' school of thought. I'll do some more looking to see if maybe I missed some black issues, but I can say with confidence it doesn't look washed out.

I would definitely try to get something done on it, warranty-wise. Even if the problem is widespread, it is still a problem. If I notice that there are issues with black levels that I simply missed, I'll post something here...but I really think that everything looks pretty amazing on the new player!

-Randy

lujan

09-13-06, 08:00 PM

Has anyone out there ever complained that their HDMI input was defective, and gotten it fixed/repaired?

It really is annoying that I have an HDMI input that is all washed out, putting me in a position that I simply don't want to use it. Component video looks much better.

I would like to use HDMI, since I have several devices that COULD use it, but the Mits implementation (I have the WD-62525) is just plain bad.

I complained to Mits even after the one year warranty was up, but it was the audio that was defective with regards to the HDMI input not the video. The video has always looked great on the 62525. They had to replace the whole digital board (can't recall the exact name) because I was hearing crackling noises through the HDMI input. Once it was replaced, there were no more crackling noises and the video has always been very good.

spiff72

09-13-06, 08:07 PM

Yessir, I have a WD-62725, and have had it for approaching two years. It has a manufacture date of Sept. 2004. I'm even on my original firmware as I have had very few issues and subscribe to the 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' school of thought. I'll do some more looking to see if maybe I missed some black issues, but I can say with confidence it doesn't look washed out.

I would definitely try to get something done on it, warranty-wise. Even if the problem is widespread, it is still a problem. If I notice that there are issues with black levels that I simply missed, I'll post something here...but I really think that everything looks pretty amazing on the new player!

-Randy

I tried to take photos of the difference, but it doesn't photograph well.

Maybe I will give it another try when my Series 3 Tivo shows up tomorrow...

IFLYSWA

09-13-06, 11:18 PM

I tried to take photos of the difference, but it doesn't photograph well.

Maybe I will give it another try when my Series 3 Tivo shows up tomorrow...

You took the plunge on the Series 3, eh? Sweet! I'm not terribly happy with cable since TW took over for Comcast here to this point, or I'd at least consider it. I'm a ReplayTV guy, but we know there won't be a HD version of that box. *sigh* I'd love to hear what you think about it...if it is straying too far from this topic, a PM would be great! :D

I was mainly just jumping on to tell you I feel pretty good about the HDMI on my set after further review. Either I am not as sensitive to lighter blacks, or it is doing just fine. When it was really displaying nothing (waiting for menus, etc.) it was pretty gray, but when actual content was displayed the blacks looked very good, at least to me....

Thanks!
-Randy

bmartin5150

09-14-06, 01:02 AM

spiff72

09-14-06, 07:57 AM

You took the plunge on the Series 3, eh? Sweet! I'm not terribly happy with cable since TW took over for Comcast here to this point, or I'd at least consider it. I'm a ReplayTV guy, but we know there won't be a HD version of that box. *sigh* I'd love to hear what you think about it...if it is straying too far from this topic, a PM would be great! :D
-Randy

I will post when I get a chance to try it out (with HDMI and component video).

I started an "Official" Tivo S3 thread on Tuesday - it is growing fast!

Mitsu52Guy

09-19-06, 02:02 AM

Mitsu52Guy

09-19-06, 02:06 AM

Hey all,

I've been a happy owner of this set for about 2 years and i'm about to move it from the basemenet to the living room. The only problem is that the living room has a lot of windows and I'm worried that the glare will be unbearable. Does anyone know if the trim kit is still available either through a retailer or directly from MITS?

thanks
bruce

I just called Mits about this as I was thinking about replacing the one my kids have damaged. It's about 250 dollars shipped, and you can get them from Mits. the part number is 760D652010.

spiff72

09-19-06, 08:17 AM

I've looked throughout this thread and for the most part everyone agrees that you need to clean the mirrors more than just once a year (which is what you get if you bought the extended plan). What I'd like to know is if this thread has come to a consensus on the best method of cleaning.

Should a solution be used to clean? If so what kind of solution should be used? I've seen some people say they use Windex? Is that ok? How do these mirrors differ from normal household mirrors? Is a micro fiber cloth the best method? What are the service techs using?

These are the questions I still have.

Personally, I've just used canned air and a microfiber cloth. Tonight I cleaned the small mirror and the lens with canned air and a cloth. I tried to clean the large mirror with the same cloth, but as I ran the cloth along the top of the mirror I noticed smears so got scarred and stopped.

I used a pre-moistened lens cleaning wipe, but honestly, I think a lens brush or lint free cloth would have been enough. I only cleaned the small mirror, since the big one doesn't seem to accumulate dust because it isn't facing upward. I lightly draped/dragged a lint free cloth across the mirror the second time I cleaned to avoid scratching it. This way I applied no pressure to the mirror, and the weight of the cloth is all the the mirror was exposed to.)

I have cleaned mine just twice, and the last one was over 1 year ago. I sealed the opening around the lens area where the foam peeled back and I think this has helped a lot with the dust intrusion problem.

lujan

09-19-06, 11:24 AM

I used a pre-moistened lens cleaning wipe, but honestly, I think a lens brush or lint free cloth would have been enough. I only cleaned the small mirror, since the big one doesn't seem to accumulate dust because it isn't facing upward. I lightly draped/dragged a lint free cloth across the mirror the second time I cleaned to avoid scratching it. This way I applied no pressure to the mirror, and the weight of the cloth is all the the mirror was exposed to.)

I have cleaned mine just twice, and the last one was over 1 year ago. I sealed the opening around the lens area where the foam peeled back and I think this has helped a lot with the dust intrusion problem.

I know this has been asked before, but how did you get access to the mirrors? I live alone so will need to do it myself unless I ask my brother over who is always so busy I don't know when he can make it over.

Mitsu52Guy

09-19-06, 04:54 PM

I used a pre-moistened lens cleaning wipe, but honestly, I think a lens brush or lint free cloth would have been enough. I only cleaned the small mirror, since the big one doesn't seem to accumulate dust because it isn't facing upward. I lightly draped/dragged a lint free cloth across the mirror the second time I cleaned to avoid scratching it. This way I applied no pressure to the mirror, and the weight of the cloth is all the the mirror was exposed to.)

I have cleaned mine just twice, and the last one was over 1 year ago. I sealed the opening around the lens area where the foam peeled back and I think this has helped a lot with the dust intrusion problem.

Do you know if the mirror are regular mirrors or are they coated with something? Would using a mild eye glass cleaner be ok?

Mitsu52Guy

09-19-06, 09:37 PM

I just made a really strange discovery, and I'd like somoene else to test it out. I have an HR10-250, and tonight while watching TV I noticed the TiVo had been set to 480i. So I changed it to 720P. As soon as I did that I noticed that the picture looked a little darker (it's seemed like that for a while now, So yesterday I cleaned the mirrors). Still it looked a little dark. So I started to think what might have changed. Then I remembered I had changed from HDMI to Component. Sure enough a simple test proved it. I swtiched back to HDMI and it looks like the picture brightness is about the same from 480i to 720p. Where as with the component inputs, there is a noticable different. Can someone explain this??

lcaillo

09-19-06, 11:35 PM

I've looked throughout this thread and for the most part everyone agrees that you need to clean the mirrors more than just once a year (which is what you get if you bought the extended plan). What I'd like to know is if this thread has come to a consensus on the best method of cleaning.

Should a solution be used to clean? If so what kind of solution should be used? I've seen some people say they use Windex? Is that ok? How do these mirrors differ from normal household mirrors? Is a micro fiber cloth the best method? What are the service techs using?

These are the questions I still have.

Personally, I've just used canned air and a microfiber cloth. Tonight I cleaned the small mirror and the lens with canned air and a cloth. I tried to clean the large mirror with the same cloth, but as I ran the cloth along the top of the mirror I noticed smears so got scarred and stopped.

I have tested the GE Cleaner for Lexan on numerous mirrors, lenses and screen surfaces and found it to be completely safe on all. You can buy it at Home Depot for about $3 per quart and a bundle of microfibre cloths for the same price. I have old lenses, screens and mirrors in the shop that I use for testing and have tried to overuse is and have not been able to find any problems at all. It is also a fantastic cleaner for this purpose as it dries without streaks or residue. I have cleaned dozens, probably hundreds of sets with it and the results are the best that I have found.

dssturbo1

09-20-06, 03:29 AM

post # 2838 on page 95 of this thread, you can thank spiff,

The foam block around the lens is supposed to be held in place with some sticky double faced tape on the back of the plastic that surrounds the hole. I tried to pull that foam piece back into position, but the tape would not hold it. The foam seems to have too much shape memory from being in that position too long, and it would want to go back to this position... I probably should have tried a little harder to seal it off...maybe next time I clean it I will try a little harder. I wanted to get it back together to see George Dubya speaking at the Commencement of my alma mater.

SCREEN REMOVAL:

To get the screen off, you need to remove the speaker grille, and remove the access panel that is right under the buttons. I shut off the TV and unplugged it at this point. Unplug the connector behind the panel that runs to the button panel. There are 2 screws that run through the silver panel that need to be removed (these are behind that access panel that you previously removed.

Then you have to remove the screws at the lower left and right corners (these are about an 1-1/2 inches below the bottom edge of the screen, and are covered by the speaker grille normally). There is a black plastic "fork" that points down from above (fork is part of the screen assembly). Now, on the back of the TV, there are 3 screws on each side, and 4 across the top. Once these have all been removed, the screen is actually lifted up and off (there are hooks on the back of the screen that disengage as you lift it, and the "forks" I mentioned earlier need to move up high enough to clear the slots they engage into.

Be careful with the screen, and DO NOT try setting it on its bottom, since the button panel is not strong enough to support it. I turned mine and leaned it carefully against a wall with one of the sides resting on the floor. I cleaned the mirror with a clean cotton tshirt and some premoistened eyeglass wipes. I really think it will never be completely dust free, since it is a surface that faces upward. It will always collect dust as long as dust can get inside.

To replace the screen I had my wife help me lift it back into place, watching the hooks to line them up with the slots on the TV, and making sure the lower "forks" fit correctly into position. Make sure that the wiring harness doesn't get stuck behind the screen. I then reattached this harness, and installed all of the screws in their original positions, replaced the access cover, and replaced the grill. I fired it back up and found a show with lots of white background, and it helped remove those pesky smudges.

YMMV, of course, and if you aren't comfortable doing this to your pride and joy, don't! I accept NO BLAME if you mess something up!

Thanks,
Jeff

lujan

09-21-06, 08:42 AM

Thanks dssturbo1!

Mitsu-John

09-21-06, 10:31 AM

Been awhile......

52725, bought in Jan. 05. Still have "bright spot" and still is a tad irritating in all black scenes. Overall, love the picture, football awesome. INHD programs, stunning. No smudges, no geometry issues....just the bright spot.

2 questions:

1) Has anyone heard about Mits owning up to the bright spot issue yet?

2) Kinda' confused about the hour thing. After going into the diagnostic menu, mine is: 1st position: 02958, 2nd: 01679, 3rd: 0000, 4th: 0001, 5th: 00035

So, does that mean that my overall lamp time is 02958? or a sum of all 5 numbers?

.

I bought my 52725 in Nov 05, the bulb blew dec 24th 06. What a joyous Xmas that was! :eek: It took a month to get a new bulb. :mad: Anyway, I installed the new bulb in Jan 06 and it is now on it's way out (bulb light is blinking). I entered the menu 2 - 4 - 7 - 0 and get this:
9/18/06 - 05146 05110 00000 00000 00035
9/20/06 - 05163 05127 00000 00000 00035

I have read that the first digits are the total hours of the TV and 2nd digits are the current bulb hours.
My display seems to be 1st digits = total of 2nd digits plus the 00035.
My first bulb hours do not show. What do others see when they check?
Great forum! :D

dssturbo1

09-21-06, 05:07 PM

unless you are a time traveler......think you meant it blew in dec 2005.

said 2005 but checking, did you buy it nov 2004 or nov 2005?

did you order a bulb from mits? and it took a month?

Mitsu-John

09-22-06, 10:46 AM

Wow how time flies!
Yes, I bought the TV in Nov. 2004, Bulb blew Dec 2005! The bulb was ordered through maintenance contract, and took a month.
Same thing is happening again. I had a call from the company saying they have the bulbs on back order. Maybe a week to get them. At least I got a warning light this time.
When I took out the bulb in Dec 2005, the bulb had exploded! the front glass had a split in it and there was broken glass inside! I am not sure if that is normal.

dssturbo1

09-22-06, 03:06 PM

sounds normal, mine wasn't cracked on the front but was broken glass inside.

jackmd

09-22-06, 08:33 PM

I searched around but could not find any references to problems so I try a new question...

Seems like I'm have real issues with my 62725 with volume. When I'm watching a broadcast channel either direct OTA or off my cable (no decoder box) and a HD commercial starts the volume is not only jacked up but it is so loud that it is objectionable. I know that that is a common tactic of the networks but not this much. I have the option checked on the audio for volume leveling but it seems like it don't work.

I'm at a real low firmware level as I have one of the original sets but I don't have any issues and I'm reluctant to upgrade unless I can fix this issue.

Anyone see this problem or have or heard of a fix?

lujan

09-23-06, 01:13 PM

I don't think it's because the commercial is any louder but because the HD broadcast is much softer. It's been said numerous times on the HD threads that the volume on HD shows it very soft so you have to turn up the volume. Then when it comes time for a commercial, the volume is very loud. This is very common.

Shape

09-23-06, 01:27 PM

It all depends on the channel broadcasting, too.

I wouldn't be afraid of upgrading to the latest firmware version. It fixed a ton of issues. Didn't bring any new ones, either.

rsher9970

09-24-06, 08:49 AM

Finally got my bad tuner (hi def) issue resolved last week. Rather than replace only the tuner Tweeter replaced the chasis. Needless to say I was surprised. This took care of the problem and I got an updated chasis in the deal, but no light engine.

Klatu

09-24-06, 06:53 PM

jackmd

09-24-06, 07:50 PM

I wouldn't be afraid of upgrading to the latest firmware version. It fixed a ton of issues. Didn't bring any new ones, either.

What firmware is current and when did you upgrade?

IFLYSWA

09-24-06, 07:59 PM

First problem with my 62725. It seems I've lost my blue color. On SMPTE color bars, my blue is black, yellow is violet, and red and orange are almost identical. I never expected this type of defect with a DLP.
Hello extended warranty!

Sounds like the color wheel is out of sync, maybe? I'm with you...not something I would expect to see with a DLP. Please post to let us know what it ended up being and what they did to fix it.

Good luck!
-Randy

spiff72

09-25-06, 07:59 AM

First problem with my 62725. It seems I've lost my blue color. On SMPTE color bars, my blue is black, yellow is violet, and red and orange are almost identical. I never expected this type of defect with a DLP.
Hello extended warranty!

Maybe the blue part of the color wheel flew out while it was rotating, and left all of the others behind. :D Wait, that would make blue look like white, right?

Tom Thomas

09-25-06, 11:15 AM

I have had my 52725 for almost a year now and within the last 6 weeks have started to notice something strange:

From time to time it is as if the screen tears down the middle (actually just off center to the left) and the two halves of video are not in sync. This usually only lasts for a split second or two but it is becoming more frequent. That is the simplest way I can explain it.

I searched this thread for words like rip and tear with no luck. I am wondering if any of you have experienced what I have with your xx725. Also, I have seen this from multiple video sources.

Thanks!
I have had my WD52725 for about 2 years and notice this on all inputs, HD DVD, HD TV, SD TV, etc. It always corrects itself but is annoying especially when guests are over to see the TV. Does anyone have a solution or info on this problem?

spiff72

09-25-06, 01:49 PM

I have had my WD52725 for about 2 years and notice this on all inputs, HD DVD, HD TV, SD TV, etc. It always corrects itself but is annoying especially when guests are over to see the TV. Does anyone have a solution or info on this problem?

This has been mentioned many times before in this (or other) Mits thread. I don't think there is a solution for it. I just ignore it, since it happens fairly infrequently.

Mitsu-John

09-25-06, 05:52 PM

I have seen Monster HDMI cable for $200+ in the stores. This cost nearly as much as my DVD player which came with an HDMI cable! My question is, has anybody upgraded from a cheap HDMI cable to a Monster HDMI and did you notice the difference?

Shape

09-25-06, 06:02 PM

There is no difference in video quality between cheap and expensive digital video cables so long as the cables are relatively short. They will all work the same.

There is a shop near me that sells HDMI cables for $15 a piece, and they work great.

dssturbo1

09-25-06, 06:34 PM

John Williams

09-27-06, 04:43 PM

yup shape is right. DO NOT overpay for cables. monster are notoriously overpriced and no better performance. if you need cables go to one of the forum sponsors monoprice.com they have good well built solid cables for great prices and fast shipping.

I can also recommend Blue Jeans Cable (http://www.bluejeanscable.com/). Very professional and friendly.

-John

Shape

09-29-06, 09:41 PM

spiff72

09-29-06, 09:54 PM

I got my new bulb today free from my Best Buy warranty. I just called them up and said that my TV warned me that my bulb was about to die and they sent one out to me. Took 5 days to get it! It was drop shipped directly from Mitsu.

The new bulb looks different from the old one. It doesn't have the paper on it anymore. It makes me wonder if they have made improvements to it. If you look up the WD-52525 bulb on the Mitsubishi web site, it says "SUBSTITUTE" next to the part number. And the price dropped $20 to $229.

I haven't put the new bulb in yet. I wouldn't mind getting a little bit more out of the stock one. But then again, the new bulb only has a 6 month warranty on it.

There is a slip with the new bulb that says I have to send the old one back to get my $25 core charge. But I didn't pay a core charge. :) So I don't technically have to send the old one back, I guess.

That is good news. I was hoping that they would do it this way rather than send out a technician to do something that I could do myself. I like the fact that I may not have to wait for my current one to die. I would hate to wait 5 days for the bulb to arrive while the fall TV season is just getting started. Is your Mits really blinking to tell you the bulb is slipping away? Or did you just make it up? :D

I am not sure if mine will ever start blinking, since it accidently was told that the bulb was replaced a while back. I think this will prevent it from flashing the bulb until it reaches a certain number of hours. Mine has 5000+ in the first counter position, and about 4600 in the other counter position. I think the difference between the two was the amount of hours when the reset was accidentally done.

Shape

09-29-06, 10:05 PM

The orange "Lamp" LED on the front of my TV is on all the time, even when the TV is off. And text has appeared on the TV that says the bulb is past its point of reliability. So no, it wasn't a lie. :)

I had the option to have a technician come out and check the TV or they could just send me the bulb. I took the bulb option.

The first counter is the number of hours on the TV. Second number is the number of hours on your first bulb.

Mine says: 05589 05552 00000 00002 00000

Firmware is: V26 004.05

spiff72

09-29-06, 10:20 PM

Shape

10-01-06, 11:20 AM

Can you believe this? My bulb blew this morning! I just got the new bulb on Friday! The old bulb just popped. There are shards of glass all over the inside of the bulb. Thank goodness it was contained.

The new bulb didn't fint as nicely as the original bulb. It took some pushing and moving to get the socket lined up. And more moving and stress to get the thumb screws to line up.

But damn, the picture is BRIGHT again!

I must lead a charmed life. I still can't believe I got the new bulb just 2 days before the old one popped.

IFLYSWA

10-01-06, 11:56 AM

Shape

10-01-06, 12:40 PM

IFLYSWA

10-01-06, 12:54 PM

The bulb didn't get significantly more dim than it was a month ago. It has been dimmer over the past 6 months or so than it was when it was new. It has been a very slow dimming. Nothing happened quickly.

Thanks. My picture seems dimmer lately, but I am pretty sure it is my new Moto 6412 box. I am all but certain it isn't the TV since other sources (HD-DVD, direct cable in) don't seem to be affected. Of course, once you notice something like that you start to imagine it *everywhere*. :) I think I am going to try the HDMI out on the 6412 to see if it makes a difference. Of course, I want to use the HDMI out on my Toshiba, and I only have the one input (and my receiver doesn't have HDMI in/out), so if it does look better I'll have a new problem. It is just kind of hard to swap out a DVR that is mostly working right here at the first of the new TV season when I am casting a bit of a wide net to see what I want to watch this time around. Ugh. Anyway, thanks for the reply!

-Randy

rsher9970

10-02-06, 08:04 AM

pmorris1

10-19-06, 09:07 PM

I have a 52725. I never purchased the matching stand. Now I am wanting to buy a stand, but the stand for the 52725 is no longer available. I have a chance to buy the mitsubishi stand MB-52527. It is for a newer version of the 52 inch mitsubishi tv's. Does anyone know if this stand will work for the 52725 tv? I think it will work if the top of the stand is flat, but I can't find anyone that has one to ask. I would appreciate any ones opinion . Thanks phil

Daniel Murray

10-19-06, 09:41 PM

pmorris1

10-19-06, 10:07 PM

do you know if there are any stands that will work with my set

Daniel Murray

10-19-06, 10:27 PM

do you know if there are any stands that will work with my set
If I was you I would go and find a nice Flat top TV stand that will work with a 52" and up. You should not have any Problems with it.
You TV is 16-1/2" deep base x 49-5/8" long in the front x 31" long on the rear.
This can work
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=6982205&type=product&cmp=++&id=1099388426627
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7293298&type=product&cmp=++&id=1118841019561
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7871298&type=product&productCategoryId=cat03116&id=1142302236507
So you have many stands you can use. There is a lot more that will work.
I hope this helps you,
Daniel

pmorris1

10-19-06, 10:34 PM

thank you Daniel.

Daniel Murray

10-19-06, 10:43 PM

Any time !!

IFLYSWA

10-19-06, 11:03 PM

do you know if there are any stands that will work with my set

I've got this one and have been satisfied with it...it is great if you have several components you want to store in it.

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Z-Line-Designs-55-TV-Stand-Z22-1S/sem/rpsm/oid/93807/catOid/-12892/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do

It is a little small for my 62", but it doesn't look bad...it would probably look great with a 52"...

Good luck,
Randy

pmorris1

10-20-06, 12:38 AM

Thanks Randy. Is this stand pretty sturdy

IFLYSWA

10-20-06, 09:47 AM

Thanks Randy. Is this stand pretty sturdy

Oh yeah...the thing is pretty much a beast. I have my 62" DLP on the top, two ReplayTVs and a Motorola 6412, with a Tosh HD-DVD player stacked on one of the RTVs on the center shelf, then an Onkyo receiver, Xbox, and another DVD player on the bottom. The glass is quite heavy...I can't remember the total weight, but it gave a couple of us all we wanted moving the box. Another nice thing is that when my TV was delivered, the delivery guys commented on how much they liked the stand.... :)

Hope that helps!
-Randy

Mitsu-John

10-20-06, 11:11 AM

spiff72

10-20-06, 02:32 PM

I just bought a Pioneer VSX-80TXV. I needed the switching of HDMI. This has 2 in and 1 out.
I hooked it all up but there is no HDMI output. So I tried S-Video, no joy there either.

Problem now is: when I try to turn the Mutsu Volume Up or Down (with remote or front panel) I get the message on the screen "AVR UP". :mad:

I reset the TV but still the same.
Any ideas? I have a 52725, no AVR.

Go to the Device rocker button on the Mits TV. While in this menu, press the "Audio" button on the remote. This should bring you to the upper TV/AVR icons in the upper right on the TV screen. (It will be highlighted in yellow around the box containing the icons). Press the arrow on the remote to the left (or right) to get the TV highlighted, then press select.

Mitsu-John

10-20-06, 08:13 PM

Thanks! That fixed it. I am back with the Kenwood receiver again.
Real pity as the Pioneer looked great! shame it didn't work ;)

jvdaniel

10-21-06, 08:21 PM

Daniel Murray

10-21-06, 08:58 PM

:( :confused:
My 52725 is about 14 months old. everything works fine except that for about the last 2 weeks I have to push the reset button every day before I can turn the TV on.
Has anyone else had this problem, or now what is causing this?
When you try to turn on your set on with out pushing the reset do get a red or yellow light flashing or not flashing? If your set blinks out a code let me know. I can give you what it means.
You Can get the CODES this way
Do Not turn your set off.
Press and Hold the Device and Menu Button's for 5 seconds.
The LED will start Flashing a Two Digit Error Code.
To determine the Error code: Count the number of times the LED Flashes, It will flash first then pause flash again. That will be the first code.
Good Luck and let me Know
Daniel :D

jvdaniel

10-22-06, 08:06 PM

Nothing happens when I try to turn on the TV. After I push the reset button, the green light flashes, after it stops I can turn on the TV.
Thank you.

Daniel Murray

10-22-06, 08:17 PM

Nothing happens when I try to turn on the TV. After I push the reset button, the green light flashes, after it stops I can turn on the TV.
Thank you.

You Can get the CODES this way
Do Not turn your set off.
Press and Hold the Device and Menu Button's for 5 seconds.
The LED will start Flashing a Two Digit Error Code.
To determine the Error code: Count the number of times the LED Flashes, It will flash first then pause flash again. That will be the first code.
Good Luck and let me Know
Daniel

jthill

10-23-06, 06:06 PM

Just a question for those who have tried this already. I have had my WD-52725 for 2 years now and I am going on my second lamp bulb replacement. The first one was replaced under the 1 year warranty, now the TV is warning me again.

I have been looking around and found replacement cartridges and replacement bulbs only. Would you bother replacing the bulb only or just buy the cartridge new?

Its obviously cheaper to replace just the bulb only, but i haven't looked at whats all involved, i.e soldering it and so on. Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Joe

kyoo

10-23-06, 06:16 PM

jthill, good question.. also, let us know where the cheapest you've found the bulb replacement is. I need to order one to have "in stock".. I can't afford to have it go out when I have everyone over for "the big game"!

jvdaniel

10-23-06, 08:54 PM

It appears to be code 21. I hope I am reading it correct. Thanks again.

Daniel Murray

10-23-06, 09:09 PM

OK there is no code 21.
Here are the Codes
12 it will be No problem
22 Momentary Reset
32 lamp Cover open
33 Air Filter open
34 Lamp did not turn on
35 Chassis fan stopped
36 Ballast or Exhaust Fan stopped
37 DMD or Lamp Fan stopped
38 Excess Lamp Temperature
39 Excess DMD Temperature
41 Short Detection
44 DVI cable from FMT-PW B to the DMD-PWB is disconnected.

lcaillo

10-23-06, 09:44 PM

Daniel Murray

10-23-06, 09:51 PM

I have heard of more than five people at the shop who replace with none Mitsubishi lamps and they all said there set did not look as bright and they also said the lamps popped when watching and power goes off and on like in a storm. They all have Mitsubishi lamps now. Just some info for all of you hope this helps.
Daniel

stoffey

10-24-06, 09:34 AM

lujan

10-24-06, 09:38 AM

I am new to this stuff so kick me out of I am in the wrong place. But I have a WD-52725 and a Cox HD DVR. It is hooked up w/ the R/G/B cables. When I watch any of the HD channels, w/ the HD signals active, there are 2" grey bars at the top and bottom of the screen. I have asked a few people that have tried to tell me to set the receiver to pass through (I tried this and it hasn't helped). The receiver is set to pass through a 1080i signal. When I press the Format button on the remote it states that it is in 480i. Does anyone have any suggestions?

I don't use Cox but it appears that you have the HD DVR set to 480i. You need to check the DVR menus and change it to either 1080i or 720p. I've found that for HD programming, the 720p setting looks better on my 62525 than the 1080i because 720p is the native resolution for these TVs.

spiff72

10-24-06, 09:41 AM

I am new to this stuff so kick me out of I am in the wrong place. But I have a WD-52725 and a Cox HD DVR. It is hooked up w/ the R/G/B cables. When I watch any of the HD channels, w/ the HD signals active, there are 2" grey bars at the top and bottom of the screen. I have asked a few people that have tried to tell me to set the receiver to pass through (I tried this and it hasn't helped). The receiver is set to pass through a 1080i signal. When I press the Format button on the TV remote it states that it is in 480i. Does anyone have any suggestions?

It sounds like the box is sending a 480i signal to the TV rather than 720p or 1080i.

RoninNOLA

10-24-06, 02:57 PM

Has anyone else experienced the hi-def tuner failure for ota reception in a 52725 set? Mine just failed for the second time only two weeks after Tweeters replaced the entire electrical chasis. The analog tuner works fine, but the screen is black on digital channels.

Will notify Tweeter today and hope for service soon.

I have a 52725 and am starting to think that my digital tuner has failed. However, most of the people that I have consulted (including MITSU Cust Service and AVS antenna forum) tell me that it's unlikely that I have a tuner failure and more likely to be an antenna /reception problem.

Here's the background:

I bought a $40 Phillips antenna from Wal-Mart 4-5 weeks ago. Hooked it up, switched to ANT-1, did the channel scan, and just like that picked up all of the local OTA channels in HD. I did occasionally get some "tiling" which I could fix by moving the antenna around a little bit. This worked as described with the antenna just sitting on top of my entertainment center.

OTA worked fine for about three weeks without any problems but stopped working about two weeks ago. I've tried several different (indoor) antennas and have rescanned the channels several times but all I can pick up is analog (the analog picture quality is not very good). When it scans the digital frequencies, the channel "added" button does light up during the scan process but the channels won't tune in after the scan is complete. If I manually enter the channel (8.1 for example), I get a blue screen with a "no signal or off air" message.

Again, most people suggest that I just got lucky when I first hooked it up (prime atmospheric conditions for OTA reception) but I find it hard to believe that it would work so well for three weeks and then completely drop off for two weeks straight.

Does this sound similar to you experience? If so, how much did it cost to have the tuner repaired? My set is a over two years old so my warranty has expired.

IFLYSWA

10-24-06, 03:11 PM

I have a 52725 and am starting to think that my digital tuner has failed. However, most of the people that I have consulted (including MITSU Cust Service and AVS antenna forum) tell me that it's unlikely that I have a tuner failure and more likely to be an antenna /reception problem.

Here's the background:

I bought a $40 Phillips antenna from Wal-Mart 4-5 weeks ago. Hooked it up, switched to ANT-1, did the channel scan, and just like that picked up all of the local OTA channels in HD. I did occasionally get some "tiling" which I could fix by moving the antenna around a little bit. This worked as described with the antenna just sitting on top of my entertainment center.

OTA worked fine for about three weeks without any problems but stopped working about two weeks ago. I've tried several different (indoor) antennas and have rescanned the channels several times but all I can pick up is analog (the analog picture quality is not very good). When it scans the digital frequencies, the channel "added" button does light up during the scan process but the channels won't tune in after the scan is complete. If I manually enter the channel (8.1 for example), I get a blue screen with a "no signal or off air" message.

Again, most people suggest that I just got lucky when I first hooked it up (prime atmospheric conditions for OTA reception) but I find it hard to believe that it would work so well for three weeks and then completely drop off for two weeks straight.

Does this sound similar to you experience? If so, how much did it cost to have the tuner repaired? My set is a over two years old so my warranty has expired.

You might have already done this, but go the http://www.antennaweb.org/aw/Address.aspx and put in your info (you don't have to do the name stuff, etc.) and see what kind of antenna it suggests for your location to receive digital signals. That might be a good indicator of how likely it is that you could get a good signal with an indoor antenna, which could help determine if you were just lucky early on. At the very least, you'll have some more information for troubleshooting...

Hope that helps,
-Randy

RoninNOLA

10-24-06, 03:34 PM

You might have already done this, but go the http://www.antennaweb.org/aw/Address.aspx and put in your info (you don't have to do the name stuff, etc.) and see what kind of antenna it suggests for your location to receive digital signals. That might be a good indicator of how likely it is that you could get a good signal with an indoor antenna, which could help determine if you were just lucky early on. At the very least, you'll have some more information for troubleshooting...

Hope that helps,
-Randy

Thanks for responding.

Yes, I did check antennaweb.org and they suggest a large directional antenna.

If I had not had consistent success with the indoor antenna for a pretty good period, I would think that it was the antenna. But now I'm getting nothing but a blue screen with the small indoor antennas and it seems like too much of a coincidence to go from all to nothing.

What's also throwing me off is the fact that the TV does appear to be adding the digital channels (per the antennaweb listing for my area) as it scans (the "added" button fills in during the memorize channels process) but they are not there when the scan is complete.

Just wish there was some easy way to determine if it's the tuner or if it truly is an antenna issue.

IFLYSWA

10-24-06, 03:41 PM

John Geis

10-24-06, 03:42 PM

Just wish there was some easy way to determine if it's the tuner or if it truly is an antenna issue.

I had some issues with my QAM several weeks ago, very similar symptoms. I was able to get it working again by turning the set off and unpluging it from power let it sit for five minutes or so..plugged it back in did a channel scan and all was happy.

spiff72

10-24-06, 04:01 PM

Thanks for responding.

Yes, I did check antennaweb.org and they suggest a large directional antenna.

If I had not had consistent success with the indoor antenna for a pretty good period, I would think that it was the antenna. But now I'm getting nothing but a blue screen with the small indoor antennas and it seems like too much of a coincidence to go from all to nothing.

What's also throwing me off is the fact that the TV does appear to be adding the digital channels (per the antennaweb listing for my area) as it scans (the "added" button fills in during the memorize channels process) but they are not there when the scan is complete.

Just wish there was some easy way to determine if it's the tuner or if it truly is an antenna issue.

I think the best way to determine this is to get an outdoor antenna and try it. Not exactly cheap, but I am leaning toward a signal reception problem too.

I think the tuner is capable of seeing a digital channel (even if it isn't displaying a picture). If enough of the digital data comes through that it can find the PSIP data (the data that maps the channel to its "8-1" position, it can probably add it.

The fact that you are getting poor picture quality on the analog channels is another indicator (especially if the analog and digital channel assignments are close to each other on the dial). My locals are set up with 2 of them in VHF, just one channel up or down from their analog equivalents. This gives a good indicator that if I am getting bad picture (and thus bad signal strength/quality) on channel 8 (analog) I will probably have similar issues with digital channel 7.

Can you post what your digital channel assignments are (channel numbers)? I am curious if they are mostly UHF, or are there some VHF?

spiff72

10-24-06, 04:02 PM

IFLYSWA

10-24-06, 04:27 PM

When I had this issue with the old firmware, I didn't even need to rescan after the reset. They would just come back after the reset.

I bet that it is the same for me...it has been quite awhile since it has done this to me and my memory can be a little fuzzy upon sometimes... :)

-Randy

RoninNOLA

10-24-06, 04:30 PM

Have you tried a reset of the TV? The original firmware (which I still have) had an issue where digitals could be lost. You might try hitting the reset button, let it do its thing, then rescanning. That is, of course, if you haven't already done that....

-Randy

If I manully reset, will I lose the netcommand settings? I'd hate to go thru that again.

John G: I have disconnected AC power....perhaps not for 5 minutes....I'll try that to see if it helps.

Can you post what your digital channel assignments are (channel numbers)? I am curious if they are mostly UHF, or are there some VHF?

Here's the channel listing from antennaweb.org:

WUPL 54, MNT SLIDELL LA 127° 10.1 54
WUPL-DT 54.1 MNT SLIDELL LA 127° 10.1 24
WDSU 6 NBC NEW ORLEANS LA 170° 29.9 6
WNOL 38 CW NEW ORLEANS LA 168° 27.7 38
WGNO 26 ABC NEW ORLEANS LA 168° 27.7 26
WLAE 32 PBS NEW ORLEANS LA 168° 27.7 32
WHNO 20 IND NEW ORLEANS LA 178° 31.6 20
WWL 4 CBS NEW ORLEANS LA 179° 32.5 4
WPXL 49 i NEW ORLEANS LA 178° 31.6 49
WYES 12 PBS NEW ORLEANS LA 169° 29.6 12
WVUE 8 FOX NEW ORLEANS LA 169° 29.6 8
WVUE-DT 8.1 FOX NEW ORLEANS LA 169° 29.6 29
WYES-DT 12.1 PBS NEW ORLEANS LA 169° 29.7 11
WPXL-DT 26.1 i NEW ORLEANS LA 178° 31.6 50
WWL-DT 4.1 CBS NEW ORLEANS LA 179° 32.5 36
WLAE-DT 31 PBS NEW ORLEANS LA 168° 27.7 31
WDSU-DT 6.1 NBC NEW ORLEANS LA 170° 29.9 43
WLOX 13 ABC BILOXI MS 66° 61.2 13

I appreciate your responses and interest.

spiff72

10-24-06, 04:31 PM

I bet that it is the same for me...it has been quite awhile since it has done this to me and my memory can be a little fuzzy upon sometimes... :)

-Randy

I tried avoiding the rescans in the past, since they always found a ton of channels I didn't care about, and then I would have to go and remove them after scanning...

I guess I am lazy that way!

spiff72

10-24-06, 04:34 PM

If I manully reset, will I lose the netcommand settings? I'd hate to go thru that again.

John G: I have disconnected AC power....perhaps not for 5 minutes....I'll try that to see if it helps.

Here's the channel listing from antennaweb.org:

WUPL 54, MNT SLIDELL LA 127° 10.1 54
WUPL-DT 54.1 MNT SLIDELL LA 127° 10.1 24
WDSU 6 NBC NEW ORLEANS LA 170° 29.9 6
WNOL 38 CW NEW ORLEANS LA 168° 27.7 38
WGNO 26 ABC NEW ORLEANS LA 168° 27.7 26
WLAE 32 PBS NEW ORLEANS LA 168° 27.7 32
WHNO 20 IND NEW ORLEANS LA 178° 31.6 20
WWL 4 CBS NEW ORLEANS LA 179° 32.5 4
WPXL 49 i NEW ORLEANS LA 178° 31.6 49
WYES 12 PBS NEW ORLEANS LA 169° 29.6 12
WVUE 8 FOX NEW ORLEANS LA 169° 29.6 8
WVUE-DT 8.1 FOX NEW ORLEANS LA 169° 29.6 29
WYES-DT 12.1 PBS NEW ORLEANS LA 169° 29.7 11
WPXL-DT 26.1 i NEW ORLEANS LA 178° 31.6 50
WWL-DT 4.1 CBS NEW ORLEANS LA 179° 32.5 36
WLAE-DT 31 PBS NEW ORLEANS LA 168° 27.7 31
WDSU-DT 6.1 NBC NEW ORLEANS LA 170° 29.9 43
WLOX 13 ABC BILOXI MS 66° 61.2 13

I appreciate your responses and interest.

Resetting and unplugging are essentially the same, but I would still try the reset. You will not lose Netcommand settings/configs if you reset. What firmware version do you have in the TV? It is shown on the TV menu, Setup (if i remember right).

It looks like all of your digital channels except for WYES-DT are UHF...

I am still thinking a reset might fix it, or you will need a bigger/higher antenna. I am known to be wrong sometimes, though. :rolleyes:

RoninNOLA

10-24-06, 04:39 PM

I tried avoiding the rescans in the past, since they always found a ton of channels I didn't care about, and then I would have to go and remove them after scanning...

I guess I am lazy that way!

Another comment about the channel scan and the "prefer digital" option, seems like when I first hooked up the antenna and was able to get the digital channels, it scanned and added all analogs, scanned and added all digitals then went back thru one more cycle to delete the duplicate analog channels.

The last few times I did the scan with prefer digital checked, it did appear to be "adding" digital channels at the frequencies listed by antennaweb.org, but it didn't follow-up with the analog delete process. Don't know if this will shed any light on the issue.

RoninNOLA

10-24-06, 04:42 PM

Resetting and unplugging are essentially the same, but I would still try the reset. You will not lose Netcommand settings/configs if you reset. What firmware version do you have in the TV? It is shown on the TV menu, Setup (if i remember right).

I bought the TV around November 2004....would that be version 5.0...I'll take a look when I get home this evening.

I am still thinking a reset might fix it, or you will need a bigger/higher antenna. I am known to be wrong sometimes, though. :rolleyes:

I'll give it a try......hope it works.

RoninNOLA

10-24-06, 05:00 PM

When I had this issue with the old firmware, I didn't even need to rescan after the reset. They would just come back after the reset.

Before you did the reset, what would happen if you manually entered the channel using the remote? Did you get a blue screen with the "no signal / off air" message?

Daniel Murray

10-24-06, 05:06 PM

Before you did the reset, what would happen if you manually entered the channel using the remote? Did you get a blue screen with the "no signal / off air" message?
I got that last night :eek:

spiff72

10-24-06, 05:45 PM

Before you did the reset, what would happen if you manually entered the channel using the remote? Did you get a blue screen with the "no signal / off air" message?

Yes. What really helped me diagnose this, though, was the fact that I had cable tv hooked up too. The digital channels in the cable lineup would disappear there too. (I had basic $13/month cable service, but the local HD feeds would still come through).

I got my TV in August 04, and it didn't have the latest .05 firmware. I think it had the .03 or .02 version. I have upgraded twice to get it to the .05 version.

stoffey

10-24-06, 10:57 PM

I don't use Cox but it appears that you have the HD DVR set to 480i. You need to check the DVR menus and change it to either 1080i or 720p. I've found that for HD programming, the 720p setting looks better on my 62525 than the 1080i because 720p is the native resolution for these TVs.

Thanks for the reply. I called Mitsubishi about the problem and they stated that the TV's are all inherently 480i. They suggested that I should swap the cables w/ the DVD player and test it. I did that and used a wide screen formatted movie and the problem was the same. Is there a way to adjust the settings on the TV? I am lost and the the bars on the top and bottom are driving me crazy! My wife thinks I waisted the money for the TV.

kyoo

10-24-06, 11:24 PM

stoffey: try the other component inputs.. i think some inputs are rated for 1080i and others aren't.. but i think all of them should do better than 480i.

SK8_MD

10-25-06, 07:12 AM

I have a 52725 and am starting to think that my digital tuner has failed. .............. Does this sound similar to you experience? If so, how much did it cost to have the tuner repaired?

Your experiance sounds very similar to mine. I live between Baltimore and DC and I had 2 antennas, 1 pointing to DC and 2 pointing to Baltimore. I primarily use Ant1 but would occasionally try to catch a Baltimore televised game on Ant2. When I first hooked it up the reception seemed great but over time good reception was really hit or miss. This ASTC tuner is truly digital! My guess is there is something akin to the capture effect with FM radio.

I no longer have the same setup but I remember using the digital signal strength indication in the menu-2470. It was interesting to see how much that signal fluctuated over time.

IFLYSWA

10-25-06, 08:12 AM

I'm starting to wonder if I need to pick up a spare lamp...the last several days, I've gotten the message asking if I have replaced the bulb. I know this is generally something you see after a power outage, but I don't believe I have had any power issues lately...and my UPS should take care of any 'blips.' And it did one more odd thing...the other day when I turned it on, the green light just flashed. I can't remember if I got a picture then it went away, or if no picture ever came on. It didn't appear to be flashing an error code...it was just a recurrning flash, at short, regular intervals. It hasn't repeated this, but I have gotten the lamp replacement question 3 or 4 days in a row. Has anybody seen this?

Thanks,
-Randy

IFLYSWA

10-25-06, 08:19 AM

Thanks for the reply. I called Mitsubishi about the problem and they stated that the TV's are all inherently 480i. They suggested that I should swap the cables w/ the DVD player and test it. I did that and used a wide screen formatted movie and the problem was the same. Is there a way to adjust the settings on the TV? I am lost and the the bars on the top and bottom are driving me crazy! My wife thinks I waisted the money for the TV.\

I'm sort of talking out of my depth here, but I think this is correct...remember that not all DVDs (even widescreen formatted) will fill up the screen. Only the 'anamorphic' ones will. The others will still have bars on the top and bottom. Somebody *please* correct me if I am wrong on this....

-Randy

lujan

10-25-06, 08:42 AM

If the movie says it has an aspect ratio of 1.85:1 then it should fill the whole widescreen TV with no bars at the top or bottom (same as 16X9 widescreen TV). If the movie says it has as aspect ratio of 2.35:1 then you will have bars at the top and bottom. If the movie says it has an aspect ratio of 1.33:1 then it has the same aspect ratio of a non-widescreen TV (4X3 TV) and you will have bars on the left and right. The above is assuming that your talking about a widescreen TV.

lujan

10-25-06, 08:45 AM

Thanks for the reply. I called Mitsubishi about the problem and they stated that the TV's are all inherently 480i. They suggested that I should swap the cables w/ the DVD player and test it. I did that and used a wide screen formatted movie and the problem was the same. Is there a way to adjust the settings on the TV? I am lost and the the bars on the top and bottom are driving me crazy! My wife thinks I waisted the money for the TV.

I don't know what Mitsubishi is talking about because the resolution all comes from the source (DVD, Cable, Satellite, etc.). Your TV should be able to handle 480i, 480p, 1080i and 720p first of all. Then it's up to what you set your source to be not the TV.

lcaillo

10-25-06, 08:55 AM

see the thread

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=328207

for a discussion of black bars.

RoninNOLA

10-25-06, 09:07 AM

I no longer have the same setup but I remember using the digital signal strength indication in the menu-2570. It was interesting to see how much that signal fluctuated over time.

I'm not familiar with the digital signal strength indication. How do you view this? Is the 2570 a code you enter while in the TV menu?

I'd really be interested in seeing this as it could definitely help with the troubleshooting to determine whether it's a tuner or antenna issue.

What firmware version do you have in the TV?

Checked lastnight, I have version 3. I didn't get around to doing the reset last night but I'm going to give it a try tonight.

Thanks for all of the input.

spiff72

10-25-06, 10:12 AM

Thanks for the reply. I called Mitsubishi about the problem and they stated that the TV's are all inherently 480i. They suggested that I should swap the cables w/ the DVD player and test it. I did that and used a wide screen formatted movie and the problem was the same. Is there a way to adjust the settings on the TV? I am lost and the the bars on the top and bottom are driving me crazy! My wife thinks I waisted the money for the TV.

I still say that the problem is that your DVR is sending 480i to the TV. You have to go into the DVR menus (not the TV), and force it to output 720p or 1080i for the HD channels. This might be in the menu structure, or there is a service menu on some Motorola boxes that can be accessed with the box turned off.

I would call your CABLE company and tell them the problem you are having - not Mitsubishi. They should know how to changes these settings.

kyoo

10-25-06, 11:19 AM

bigz

10-25-06, 12:09 PM

Benji

10-26-06, 07:52 AM

Thanks for the reply. I called Mitsubishi about the problem and they stated that the TV's are all inherently 480i. They suggested that I should swap the cables w/ the DVD player and test it. I did that and used a wide screen formatted movie and the problem was the same. Is there a way to adjust the settings on the TV? I am lost and the the bars on the top and bottom are driving me crazy! My wife thinks I waisted the money for the TV.
The above posts are correct. The source box controls the resolution being sent to the TV. If by chance you have a Comcast/Motorola cable box, you can change the resolution easily. With everything turned on, press the cable button at the top of the remote, then the power button, then the menu button. You will see the resolution adjustment on the screen. Set it for 720P. Then push the power button twice and you will be back to the cable picture. The TV will display 720P at the top of the screen.

Daniel Murray

10-26-06, 08:37 AM

I have found on my Comcast Box and my HD DVD player that if I put it all as pass through It looks a hole lot better than if I set it for 720p. I have been told by Mitsubishi that the TV set converts higher resolution in pass through more than 720p that is why it looks better. If you let the TV converter do the switching you will all ways get a better pitcher than If you convert it through the cable box, satellite box or DVD player..
I was told this by many High end audio and video specialist that if you buy a $3k, $4K , $5,000 on up TV set you will all ways have a better converter in them than a $150..00 to $800 cable or satellite box and a $100.00 to $1000.00 DVD player.
SO that makes a lot of sense

Daniel Murray

10-26-06, 08:40 AM

Where can we order a spare lamp for a 62725? I'm assuming it's the same as the 52725/52525/62525..

I prefer an online retailer w/ better prices than calling up Mitsubishi. Does anyone have the part number handy?
Mitsubishi has the best price :eek:
Mitsubishi has Fast Shipping it only took one day for me I called in the morning and had it by 10am the next day :D

RoninNOLA

10-26-06, 09:08 AM

Daniel Murray

10-26-06, 09:33 AM

Upgrade to the latest version 004.05 you can do it your self. Just call Mitsubishi and they will send it out to you.

tampascl

10-26-06, 10:14 AM

I have a Mitsubishi WD-62725 that I purchased in February 2005. The manufacture date is November 2004. I was watching a DVD the other day and all of a sudden the picture just went black. I never received a warning that the lamp was going bad. After a couple of minutes of trying to turn off and on the DVD player, the tv turned itself off and the red lamp indicator came on and stayed on. Tried hitting the reset button a few times, but that didn't help. It just went through the process of the green power light flashing for a while, then turning off. Then when I try to turn it on again, it lights green for a minute or two (no lamp power, no blue screen, nothing), then eventually turns off and the red lamp light comes back on. Figuring the problem was a bad lamp but that for some reason it didn't warn me, I ordered the new lamp and did the swap per the instructions (with the tv unplugged). Plugged back in and same problem. (By the way, the old lamp looked a little dirty, but nothing to indicate it was blown). After a few more attempts at re-setting, I unplugged the HDTV cable box while it was trying to cycle on and all of a sudden I had a blue screen (lamp working again). Thinking I just needed that extra final reset, I reconnected everything and started to watch a DVD again, for about 2 minutes, then lost the picture again! Anyone experience anything like this or have any suggestions that I might not have tried yet?

Daniel Murray

10-26-06, 02:39 PM

If your software is 004.05 for some reson it no longer gives the lamp waring and if you have a power outage the did you replace the lamp message is no longer there..

TomTx

10-27-06, 09:16 AM

Daniel:
Are you sure that the lamp warning feature and lamp hours multiple counters (i.e. replace lamp question) is not on the .05 software version? How did you confirm that?
With 2 years on my set, I must say I have been placing a bit of faith on the eventual lamp warning.

Tampasd:
It would appear to me at least, that your problem is in either the DVD player or the TV's input. Do the problems show up w/ other inputs? Does the TV work ok w/ the DVD unpluged from whatever input you rae using? Have you tried a different input? Is your HDTV cable box connected via the HDMI input? On my set, I have found the HDMI input does not play nice w/ my sat box (or the other way round). So I just use the component input which gives me a richer more vibrant picture anyway.

Daniel Murray

10-27-06, 05:05 PM

lujan

10-27-06, 07:18 PM

The lamp warning feature is not there I was told that by a Mitsubishi Rep. But the lamp hours multiple counters are there.

If the lamp warning feature is not there, then how are we to tell that it's time to change the lamp (wait until it is completely out)?

pdubyu

10-28-06, 11:37 AM

The lamp gets very dim before it goes. That's my experience at least.

Like you, I thought there would be a message too but it didn't happen. When my bulb blew, it did so without warning during a power up.

If your bulb gets very dim, I'd order a new one. You are on borrowed time when that happens.

SD_GR

10-30-06, 02:35 PM

Lamp time for me. 6,500 hours. The orange LED came on at 5,000 but I just reset it. Ordered a replacement from Mitsu, but when I called the machine said to use the web, and that's what I ended up doing. I hope going the online route doesn't result in a delay -- anyone done this?

The lamp does get dimmer and dimmer as its time comes up.

spiff72

10-30-06, 02:53 PM

SD_GR

10-30-06, 02:57 PM

Which firmware version do you have? Is it the .05 firmware?

Yes, it is. I saw the previous posts regarding the warning not workin on .05, but assumed the number was mistyped as mine did. Is .05 the latest firmware available? And, is anyone experiencing lamp delivery delay from Mitsu (Not heard anything; just hypochondria or paranoia... I just "have" to know!...).

spiff72

10-30-06, 05:53 PM

Yes, it is. I saw the previous posts regarding the warning not workin on .05, but assumed the number was mistyped as mine did. Is .05 the latest firmware available? And, is anyone experiencing lamp delivery delay from Mitsu (Not heard anything; just hypochondria or paranoia... I just "have" to know!...).

As far as I know, .05 is the latest. My counter is at about 4800 hours, so maybe I will see the warning soon.

SD_GR

11-01-06, 02:18 PM

IFLYSWA

11-01-06, 02:27 PM

OK, did the lamp replacement. Curiously, when I had the mirrors cleaned by a tech last year, he said the picture's vertical adjustment was a little low, and he raised it. Now, I found it a little high after the lamp replacement, and had to use the service menu to lower it. Other than that, all's well.

The lamp cost added 3.8 cents per hour to the cost of ownership.

Love the cost computation! Did you find the replacement lamp to be more heavy duty than the original? I know that has been reported here before...just curious if that is a consistent thing....

Thanks,
Randy

SD_GR

11-01-06, 03:29 PM

The original was pretty "beat up" with shards inside and discoloured on the outside, and they were both encased in their little cages so it's hard to say. The replacement was the new part number though. I'm hoping the replacement will last even longer than the original, but time will tell.

lujan

11-01-06, 04:12 PM

... Now, I found it a little high after the lamp replacement, and had to use the service menu to lower it. ...

Can you tell me more about the service menu?

SD_GR

11-01-06, 04:56 PM

See post no. 3665 from 28 June 06 in this thread.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7915640&highlight=tilt+problem+menu#post7915640

See post no. 1914 from 13 Oct 04 in the older Mitsu thread.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4494761&&#post4494761

Be careful with that menu.

jfgobraves

11-01-06, 08:40 PM

spiff72

11-01-06, 09:08 PM

My cable company just added numerous new chanels to are lineup, and they said for them to show up on the tv I need to use the "auto scan" so the cable card will recognize the new channels but I cant find any menu on the tv that has an auto scan option. Thanks for your help

I would try resetting the TV before doing a channel scan. I thought that the cablecards (provided they get the "hit" to set up the new channels) would not require any cable channel scans. Resetting the TV might reset the card? Or can you directly tune to the new channels by entering the channel numbers?

Daniel Murray

11-01-06, 09:11 PM

How do you like the cable card?

jfgobraves

11-01-06, 09:26 PM

I would try resetting the TV before doing a channel scan. I thought that the cablecards (provided they get the "hit" to set up the new channels) would not require any cable channel scans. Resetting the TV might reset the card? Or can you directly tune to the new channels by entering the channel numbers?

I cant tune into the channel directly. How would i reset do i need to just unplug the tv or is there an actual reset button?

jfgobraves

11-01-06, 09:28 PM

How do you like the cable card?

So far its been great you don't get the on screen guide or ppv but the card is also free versus paying 12.95 for another HD box.

IFLYSWA

11-02-06, 12:53 AM

I cant tune into the channel directly. How would i reset do i need to just unplug the tv or is there an actual reset button?

If you have this model, there should be a reset button to the far left of the buttons on the front. It is recessed...you'll need something like a toothpick, etc., to press it....

Randy

mrtimstik

11-02-06, 08:35 AM

As of last night my Mits WD-62725 shows only a green screen with a few pink and grey vertical stripes running the length top to bottom. Audio is fine. Device manager icons show up as normal. All sources show this green screen. Any suggestions. Thank you very much.

Daniel Murray

11-02-06, 09:01 AM

Yes you can do a total reset of the TV.
What you do is press menu then 2470 go and high light initialize press enter. This will do a total reset of the set so you will need to redo your net command and if you have change your video and audio settings.
I hope this helps.
Daniel

mrtimstik

11-02-06, 09:11 AM

Hi Dan,
Will it be 2 4 7 0 ENTER and then what exactly? Thanks

mrtimstik

11-02-06, 09:16 AM

OK I got it. Still all green tho. I still would certianly appreciate any other suggestions anybody may have. Thanks.

TomTx

11-02-06, 09:19 AM

Just wanted to mention that I have software ver 4.05 and yesterday I got the yellow "bulb is going" warning light. This after 5,800 hours. Called for a replacement as part of my Ultimate Electronics warranty program and hopefully it will arrive before the yellow light turns red and the set goes dark.

Daniel Murray

11-02-06, 09:31 AM

Just wanted to mention that I have software ver 5.0 and yesterday I got the yellow "bulb is going" warning light. This after 5,800 hours. Called for a replacement as part of my Ultimate Electronics warranty program and hopefully it will arrive before the yellow light turns red and the set goes dark.
Are you sure it is not 004.05 and not 5.0?

Daniel Murray

11-02-06, 09:35 AM

OK I got it. Still all green tho. I still would certianly appreciate any other suggestions anybody may have. Thanks.
I will try to look into this for you.

mrtimstik

11-02-06, 10:14 AM

Thank you, I certianly appreciate it. A service call alone from the dealer is $130.00.

TomTx

11-02-06, 10:14 AM

Are you sure it is not 004.05 and not 5.0?

Sorry, you're right. That's what I get for trying to do stuff from memory, particularly on only one cup of coffee.

spiff72

11-02-06, 10:32 AM

I had that striped pattern once shortly after I got my TV. Try searching this thread and the older 2004 mits dlp thread for "candystripe". I think that is what I called it.

I thought it either went away on its own, or they sent me the latest firmware and it went away. I will search when I get a minute.

Thanks,
Jeff

Edit - Linkage:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6567398&highlight=candystripe#post6567398

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4581198&&#post4581198

It looks like a couple of presses of the reset button helped my situation, and then I got new firmware. Haven't seen it since.

mrtimstik

11-02-06, 01:43 PM

Daniel Murray

11-02-06, 01:49 PM

Any time.
Call Mitsubishi and they will send you the update.
Call 1800-332-2119
You will need model and serial numbers with the build date witch is on the back of your set.
Daniel

spiff72

11-02-06, 01:49 PM

Hey Spiff,
I unplugged the set from the line conditioner and after I plugged it back in, everything works perfect now. THANK YOU and THANKS to Daniel for your help. :)

Now I know my software version is V26 004.03. How do I upgrade that? Would I need to?

Call Mitsubishi (the number should be in your owners manual) and ask them if you can get a firmware update. In fact, you might tell them first that you are having slow response times to remote commands, and occasional lockups. (This should prompt them to send a firmware update). It shouldn't cost you anything, and they send a compact flash card with the firmware on it along with instructions. Once you are done, you put the card in a prepaid envelope and ship it back to them.

bmw528is

11-07-06, 11:31 PM

I would recommend you stay with Mitsubishi - their site has the Part No. you need.

The new lamp I got for my WD52725 is great - much better quality than the original. The pricing is reasonable compared to others but you are assured that the quality is great.
Was watching TV tonight, and out of nowhere I heard a pop/whine and the TV turned itself off. I turned it back on with a really dumb look on my face and all I got was audio, no picture. I was hoping it was just a temporary "glitch", but after I cycled the power off and on again, the lamp indicator light was on (red).

My first reaction other than "damn", was that I've only had the set for about 13 months so how can the lamp blow when it's supposed to last 2 years on average? Should I try to get some sort of discount or a replacement bulb at no cost or is that a fool's errand? The lamp indicator light never turned yellow and I did not get any warning messages on screen prior to the lamp going.

TomTx

11-08-06, 09:19 AM

bnm528is:

You have nothing to loose by calling Mits. and explain what happened. At most the service rep may feel generous. At the least you can order the replacement blub.

PS
Still waiting for mine to show up. UPS says delivery today. My yellow light has been on for 7 days now.

dssturbo1

11-08-06, 09:30 AM

yours blew gave no warning so it was below average...... if you do not have extended warranty/lamp coverage, call mits and complain hopefully they will reduce the price a little. they did for me, supposed to be $250 and they claimed they would do it for $200, asked to speak to supervisor and he gave me another $75 off by sending me a mits parts refund check so got a lamp for $125 plus a few bucks for shipping.

I bought from a small local mits dealer and got a 500 hour used spare lamp from him for the blown one, so even the $125 wasn't so bad with the help from mits and the dealer.

the original lasted 8960 hours, so i would say that was above average.

bmw528is

11-08-06, 09:53 AM

Thanks for your help guys. I'll try calling Mits customer relations and see what they say. I'll post their response.

bmw528is

11-08-06, 09:36 PM

spiff72

11-09-06, 08:53 AM

Had to call consumer relations twice. The first rep sounded like he just got off the school bus. Absolutely no help. I called again and made out better. She offered to send me out a new lamp for $169 and said I would have it in two days. Not too bad I guess. Worth the call.

Still kind of annoyed that the lamp went so soon IMO. I estimate that the lamp had about 1800 hours on it. I hope this lamp does better. In retrospect, I should have bought an extended warranty, but I don't think it would have covered the lamp.

You do realize that you can check the hours on the lamp, right? Is the reason you are estimating the hours because you can't turn on the TV? Once you get the lamp back, you can press the TV menu button, followed by 2 4 7 0. This will bring up a menu that shows hours on the lamps along the bottom of the screen. Press "Home" to get out of this screen.

Also, do you get lot of power outages in your area, or do you turn the TV on and off a lot? Frequent heating and cooling cycles can shorten lamp life, as can power outages that shut the TV down without allowing the fan to cool the lamp for the 60 seconds or so that it normally would. This is why I have my TV plugged into a UPS.

SD_GR

11-09-06, 03:39 PM

The lamp going out so soon is weird. Mine lasted 3 times as long. It's also weird that there was no orange warning light and that the sound came back before the lamp went red, I think -- when mine went, I got no sound, no anything except the red lamp.

When you do change the lamp though you'll probably be pleasantly surprised. I changed my lamp and took off the screen to give everything a good cleaning, and now the picture is WOW!!! again. It's great that after 6,500 hours (in my case, just an example) a lamp, a screwdriver, and a microfibre cloth will result in a "new" TV with BANG!!! picture (no other way to describe it; compared to an old lamp and dusty/filthy mirrors a new lamp and a good cleaning will be a revelation).

Daniel Murray

11-09-06, 05:24 PM

SD_GR I know what you mean!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

TomTx

11-10-06, 11:43 AM

Well my lamp arrived 30 minutes ahead of the taxi for my trip to the airport. I was afraid, no make that certain, that if I left for a business trip, the lamp would definitely blow the first time my wife turned on the TV. So I did a fast change out.

I found the fan located directly under the lamp assembly to have a build up of dust on the blades. Blew that off with a can of air. I wish I had the time to vacuum it out, but by then the taxi had arrived early. This weekend I will clean the mirrors and try to vacuum out any dust build up I find. I had previously tried to seal off around the lens and will check how well that lasted.

Finding the dust on the lamp fan blades makes me wonder about the color wheel. Wouldn't that also be subjected to dust build up and loss of light transmission?

bmw528is

11-10-06, 02:23 PM

You do realize that you can check the hours on the lamp, right? Is the reason you are estimating the hours because you can't turn on the TV? Once you get the lamp back, you can press the TV menu button, followed by 2 4 7 0. This will bring up a menu that shows hours on the lamps along the bottom of the screen. Press "Home" to get out of this screen.

Also, do you get lot of power outages in your area, or do you turn the TV on and off a lot? Frequent heating and cooling cycles can shorten lamp life, as can power outages that shut the TV down without allowing the fan to cool the lamp for the 60 seconds or so that it normally would. This is why I have my TV plugged into a UPS.
Yeah, I can't see the hours w/o the lamp. When I change the lamp, the counter will reset when I enter "yes" after the message asks if I've changed it. I'm not sure it matters anymore how many hours were on the old lamp. We probably haven't experienced any more power outages than normal in our area save for the occasional high wind instance, but I don't think the power has ever gone out when the TV was actually being watched since I've owned it (August '05). Typically, I turn the TV on once a day, twice at the most if I catch an hour in the AM before work.

Since my first lamp had a relatively short life span, I wonder if I'll notice any improvement in brightness at all. After reading this forum, I might try to clean the mirrors myself as well. Other than that, my wife, friends and relatives think our Mits DLP gets an exceptional HD picture (I'm using a high quality component over HDMI after comparing the two), as well as or moderately better than two of my friend's Panasonic plasmas and a Sony LCD projection. For the price I paid, I'd make the same choice again.

SD_GR

11-11-06, 10:54 PM

Maybe turning the TV off shortly after turning it on has something to do with your shorter lamp life. Ours is on for many hours each day; even if we are not watching it, our pets might and our walls certainly will. Figure 6 to 8 hours some days.

bmw528is

11-14-06, 09:56 PM

Finally received my new lamp today, Tuesday, when it was supposed to arrive last Friday. After several phone calls to consumer relations to try to determine if and when it was shipped, I've realized that most of them are no better than the sales clerks at a Wal-Mart (not that there's anything wrong with that). I finally got a manager on Monday who was very helpful, apologized and sent me a lamp overnight for no charge.

I thought this was the end of my problems, but it was just beginning. Murphy's Law in action.....when I stuck the new lamp in and powered up the set, nothing happened. Lamp indicator light came on. Removed front speaker cover, lamp door and cartridge again to discover a situation that had been posted here earlier. The connector that the lamp socket plugs into had come loose and fallen into the bowels of the TV. That's just great. Well there was no way I was going to pay another $200 or whatever for a service call. I took apart the back of the TV as described by "woodyww" from Nov '05 and was able to reattach the connector to the lamp cartridge that I already screwed into place. Kind of a pain, but it was free. I hope I don't have to do this every time the lamp goes. Poor design if you ask me.

The new lamp did look a little brighter I guess, and now I can return to my regularly scheduled life.

Daniel Murray

11-14-06, 10:13 PM

have you clean the mirror behind the screen?

bmw528is

11-15-06, 09:15 AM

have you clean the mirror behind the screen?
Have not cleaned the mirror yet. At this point, I just wanted to get the TV back together and free up some space on my TiVo.

DubC

11-15-06, 10:21 AM

Well there I was, just sitting there watching TV when I saw something flying around the screen of the TV. Didn't think anything of it at first because I thought it was on the outside of the TV, but upon closer inspection it was in fact inside the TV.

YEP, what I can only describe as an "Enhanced" mosquito was flying around inside the TV. At first I was pissed-off, I have cleaned my mirrors twice and during the second cleaning I did the whole "sealing off around the lens". Furthermore, I also realized that if a freaking mosquito can somehow make its way into the TV so can dust, and probably lots of it. But after I realized that there was nothing I could do I just sat back and laughed. After all, it was pretty funny. The mosquito would be real small one second and then suddenly grow 1000X. I am only guessing that this was due to which mirror the mosquito was running up against. At its largest it probably measured approx. 1-2 inches in length. I took some pics but have not uploaded them to my computer yet. I will have to see how they turn out.

I will probably take the screen off this weekend to clean and re-seal. If I find the little bastard I will take some more pics.

spiff72

11-15-06, 10:42 AM

ZBTHorton

11-15-06, 09:14 PM

Hey guys,

I got a sick deal on a 62525 the other day from a buddy of mine who needed to get rid of his, and I've got it home. I absolutely love it.

Unfortunately, I am one of those people who see a slight bit of "left tilt" on the screen, and am not sure what my next step should be.

It is 2 months out of the Mitsubishi warranty period, which obviously sucks.

I looked through this entire thread, but it is 66 pages long with 60 replies per page, so I could have missed it...

Did anyone write out instructions on how to do the adjustments to fix the tilt on the screen? Can Mitsubishi send out someone to do it for a certain price?
How much should I pay for such a service?

Any otherr recommendations would be great...Thanks!

DubC

11-16-06, 11:49 AM

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
This is the thread I am referencing:

http://avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=439889&perpage=40&pagenumber=4

post 156

The tools you will need consist of a phillips head screw driver, 10mm wrench, and an allen wrench.

First, bring up the service menu by accessing the TV Menu and keying in 2 - 4 - 5 - 7 in the remote. You should see the contrast change and numbers/letters come up. Press the AUDIO key on the remote until you see "fmt" show up and HPOS as a menu item. Then press the REW/REV button on the remote to access the test pattern. Check to see if the lines are tiltled/skewed. You should be able to see the green line on all sides and a hint of the white line as well. The red line should not be prominent on any side. If you are satisfied with the way things look, then press HOME and readjust the contrast back to what it was and you are done. If not, follow on....

You need to remove the speaker grille and note the access panel that states "NO USER SERVICEABLE PARTS/WARNING". This panel is to the right of the lamp cover panel. There are four screws holding that panel in. Remove the panel with the screwdriver and you will see two brass lock screws and two thumbscrews. Loosen the brass screws a little bit with your 10mm wrench. Then use the allen wrench on the two thumbscrews to adjust the vertical and horizontal keystone. Don't worry about the overall horizontal/vertical positioning of the pattern since that can be adjusted in the service menu later. Be gentle with the adjustments and go slow. A small movement of the screws causes a drastic shift in the picture. Once you have squared the image to your satisfaction, use the UP/DOWN adjustment on the remote to center the image horizontally. Press the VIDEO key to access the VPOS menu and center the image vertically in the same manner. Once you are satisfied, press ENTER and watch the numbers turn red. After they turn back to white, press HOME and readjust your contrast settings. If you press HOME before pressing ENTER, any changes you make to the VPOS and HPOS will be discarded.

One note of WARNING: DO NOT SET VPOS/HPOS TO 0 and PRESS ENTER. YOU WILL LOSE THE IMAGE AND BE UNABLE TO SEE ANY MENUS.

KJDAVE

11-16-06, 05:46 PM

did the mirror cleaning and lens tape monday nite noticed a big improvement right away amazing how much dust settled on the small mirror

kyoo

11-16-06, 06:05 PM

did the mirror cleaning and lens tape monday nite noticed a big improvement right away amazing how much dust settled on the small mirror

has anyone taken the time to make a list of all the useful "maintenance" posts? I feel like I need to do an overhaul on my 62725, but I can't find the time to dig through all the posts for the BEST instructions w/ photos, etc..

This deserves a wiki..

meshuggah

11-16-06, 07:33 PM

Ron Lee

11-16-06, 08:32 PM

[QUOTE=DubC]Originally posted by UMD_Terp
This is the thread I am referencing:

http://avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=439889&perpage=40&pagenumber=4

post 156

The tools you will need consist of a phillips head screw driver, 10mm wrench, and an allen wrench....

The procedure detailed here is for horizontal or vertical keystoning correction. The adjustment for tilt is from the back of the set with the cover removed. Minor tilt adjustments can be by twisting the two top corners of the cabinet. Since most scroll bars are on the screen bottom, I adjusted my tv for minimum bottom tilt.

IronHorse

11-17-06, 09:16 PM

OK, I got just about 24 months out of my 62725 projection bulb and it's needing replacement as we can only watch when the brightness is cranked to the max and also the contrast. So I have a load of questions:

1. Is this something that I can do myself?
2. Is there a tutorial online that I can read and/or download?
3. Are there different grades or manufacturers of these bulbs?
4. Where is the cheapest place to get one from?
5. Is there anyplace in the Western Mass/Nort-Central CT area to buy one retail?
6. Should I buy on eBay?
7. Should I be doing any other "routine" cleaning/maintenance when I change the bulb?

If anyone wants to walk me thru this, I'd appreciate it, and thanks in advance for any/all help!!!

Daniel Murray

11-17-06, 09:21 PM

1 VERY VERY Simple
2 It will come with instructions
3 Mitsubishi is the best
4 Mitsubishi
5 more or less not
6 NO NO NO No No No WAY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
7 Take the screen off and clean the mirror the bottom one with a lint free cloth and do not use cleaners
If you look through this thread you will find all you need to do

IronHorse

11-17-06, 09:32 PM

Dan...

OK, I should buy a Mits branded bulb from Mits online or my local home theater guy? When cleaning the mirror should I use a dry/damp microfiber cloth? I'll scan thru the thread for now.

Mike

Benji

11-17-06, 10:19 PM

Dan...

OK, I should buy a Mits branded bulb from Mits online or my local home theater guy? When cleaning the mirror should I use a dry/damp microfiber cloth? I'll scan thru the thread for now.

Mike
Replacing the lamp is an easy job unless you have a loose connection that the lamp plugs into. Then I suggest calling for professional help. As for removing the screen to clean the mirror, this is a 2 person job especially trying to get the screen back on.

Daniel Murray

11-17-06, 10:26 PM

Dan...

OK, I should buy a Mits branded bulb from Mits online or my local home theater guy? When cleaning the mirror should I use a dry/damp microfiber cloth? I'll scan thru the thread for now.

Mike
Get it from Mitsubishi it will be less money because list is $450.00 from Local store.
Use a dry microfiber cloth
OK what you do is unplug the TV, Remove the screen assembly and you will see two mirrors clean only the bottom one with a lint free cloth and no cleaners. then clean the light engine lens with no cleaners just the lint free cloth. For the last step remove your lamp and wipe the lamp down and put it back. all will be fine after that.
What happens is dust gets on the parts I told you to clean and that is you smudges.
It should take you about 30 to 45 minutes.
One more thing the screws for the lamp is behind the speaker grill and you will need to remove the cover in the middle of the set behind the speaker grill. very very simple to do all of this.

KJDAVE

11-18-06, 04:15 PM

has anyone had horror stories about using bulbs other than thru Mits? I would be curious to hear about that as there is a considerable price difference between Ebay, the web and the price from mits I've got almost 2k hrs on mine so I am getting to the point where a replacement on hand is not a bad idea. please enlighten me on this subject

Daniel Murray

11-18-06, 05:28 PM

shaggy2002

11-20-06, 08:16 PM

I just noticed I now have a solid yellow light under lamp on my wd52525. I looked it up in my book and it says I have over 4000 hours on my tv. Should I buy a lamp immediately?

Daniel Murray

11-20-06, 08:44 PM

I would you may still get more time out of it but you never know!!!!

Hipnotiq

11-21-06, 05:46 PM

Mitsubishi has it for $229.00 with lamp and housing. Mitsubishi lamp will work and have a warranty. http://www.mitsuparts.com/parts/store/ Ebay has it for $140.00 to 230.00 just the lamp. Good Luck if you think it is New!!!
For about the same price and with the housing I go to Mitsubishi and buy it
The only source for a lamp is from Mitsubishi.
If someone is selling it cheaper, then it has to be used (or they would be taking a loss on it).

lcaillo

11-21-06, 08:32 PM

Actually, there are aftermarket lamps starting to show up. Several techs have had repeat failures with them and they are not recommended. They are not much cheaper than the Osram lamp from Mitsubishi anyway. You can also get the same lamp from several other TV makers, but Mits is the cheapest source that I have found so far.

shaggy2002

11-23-06, 10:02 AM

Okay, I have posted this in a few forums on this site and other sites. I have now found that the problem appears to be with the tv. My tv will get faint diaganol lines in it when watching SD through component cables. Now originally I thought this was just the component cable going from my FIOS DVR to my TV directly and so I started watch SD material with a S Video Cable. Well I turned on my DVD player while the horizontal lines were on my tv. It also shows up on my DVD player. (DVD player hooks into receiver and then to the TV.) So this narrows out using different cables. Is there any suggestions to what my problem can be? There is nothing new that can cause interference. I have checked that it only happens with the AC, Microwave, etc and it does not have a pattern with anything. Your help is greatly appreciated.

Daniel Murray

11-23-06, 11:25 AM

You should get a good line Power Conditioner! This is the company that I use. http://www.panamax.com/products.cfm

shaggy2002

11-23-06, 03:52 PM

Thanks for the response Daniel. How do I know what stage I need?

TaZdevil_81

11-23-06, 04:22 PM

I have the WD-52725 model. Bought it in Nov. of 04. Didn't have any problems for the most part until several months ago. The first problem was when I turned it on one day and this grid showed up consisting of alot of tiny rectangles of like green or grey and black. By resetting it or unplugging it for awhile and turning it back on would not get rid of it. I had audio but could not get rid of this grid. Of course when the service tech came out and looked at it and hit the reset button, it came back on normal. But he was able to see the grid and said that he has never seen that before.
Then after about another month, which was just several days ago, I tried to turn the set on and the green power/timer light was blinking fast like it was just reset. And it continues to blink and blink and blink. I can't turn it on, off or anything. Nothing will respond. Resetting or unplugging does not help. It just keeps blinking like it's in a constant state of reset. Has anyone seen or heard of this? Just thought I would ask before I call service again. Thanks for any help.
I also forgot to mention after reading a few other posts that it has been resetting itself and it seemed to be more often lately. Even noticed it reset itself several times while I had it on watching it. Then the latest happen where I mentioned before that it seems to be in a constant state of reset and the green light won't stop blinking so I can turn it back on.

Daniel Murray

11-23-06, 07:49 PM

Thanks for the response Daniel. How do I know what stage I need?
I have M5100 EX

Daniel Murray

11-23-06, 07:53 PM

TaZdevil_81 Unplug your set and have some one hold the rest button while you plug in the set. See if that will help.

TaZdevil_81

11-24-06, 10:30 AM

Ok, holding the reset button while plugging in the set did not help. I did it about a half hour ago and the green light is still blinking.

lcaillo

11-24-06, 06:38 PM

Call your mitsubishi ASC for service. Good chance you have a bad DM module, but the set needs proper diagnosis.

TaZdevil_81

11-25-06, 10:51 AM

I got a tech scheduled to come out on Thursday. I will post any findings to help anyone else incase they have issues like this. Thanks

delar

11-25-06, 06:39 PM

I also forgot to mention after reading a few other posts that it has been resetting itself and it seemed to be more often lately. Even noticed it reset itself several times while I had it on watching it. Then the latest happen where I mentioned before that it seems to be in a constant state of reset and the green light won't stop blinking so I can turn it back on.
These are the exact symptoms I had with my set. It kept resetting itself and got progressivly worse over time. The solution was to replace the DM Module.

spiff72

11-25-06, 09:10 PM

The lamp light on my 62525 finally came on (the counter just hit 5000 hours).

Did someone here say that they contacted the administrator of the Best Buy extended warranty and get them to send a replacement lamp as preparation for the failure of the current lamp?

SD_GR

11-26-06, 09:20 PM

Yesterday when I came home the red light was flashing (TV was turned off before I left) so I had to hit the reset button to turn it back on. TV worked fine. When I got home today the light was flashing again, so I reset again. When the TV came back on I got the following message:

TV will shut down in a few seconds. Please check if the air flow is blocked.

I got the same error message. No lights flashing and no clicking or anything else abnormal, just the message suddenly and the TV shut down. Am cleaning the filter and vacuuming as much as possible on the exterior vent surfaces... How did this issue resolve after all? Anyone else had this happen or have any advice? I tried hitting DEVICE MENU and MENU for 5 secods to get error codes but did not get that to work -- am I doing something wrong?
Thanks!

UPDATE: Cleaned filter, vacuumed all vents, vacuumed rear fan area, removed lamp cover and keystone adjust cover and vacuumed inside both etc. TV has been working now for several hours.

My question regarding the reading of error codes still stands though -- is the key combinatin DEVICE MENU and MENU or something else?

bmw528is

11-27-06, 09:30 AM

Does anyone know if the contrast level used has any correlation to the life of the lamp?

PS. After replacing my lamp, the picture is off center (too low) and needs a keystone adjustment. Not sure why this would happen.

Daniel Murray

11-27-06, 06:23 PM

btravis311

12-01-06, 02:40 PM

...wondering about user experiences with picture quality using either of these types of players with the XX725 displays. I've got the 62725. Anybody?

lujan

12-01-06, 03:15 PM

...wondering about user experiences with picture quality using either of these types of players with the XX725 displays. I've got the 62725. Anybody?

I'm using the Toshiba HD-A1 HD DVD player with my 62525 and the picture quality is awesome. The picture of the XX525 is one of the best I've ever seen.

SD_GR

12-01-06, 03:18 PM

I'm using the Toshiba HD-A1 HD DVD player with my 62525 and the picture quality is awesome. The picture of the XX525 is one of the best I've ever seen.

I take it you're using the HDMI input then? With the posts here about poor quality from this input, your comment is very encouraging.

lujan

12-01-06, 03:22 PM

I take it you're using the HDMI input then? With the posts here about poor quality from this input, your comment is very encouraging.

Yes, I have never tried the HD-A1 with component cables. Also, the HDMI audio on my 62525 was producing cracking sounds at first so Mitsubishi replaced the HD (or DM) board and the cracking sounds went away.

SD_GR

12-01-06, 03:35 PM

Yes, I have never tried the HD-A1 with component cables. Also, the HDMI audio on my 62525 was producing cracking sounds at first so Mitsubishi replaced the HD (or DM) board and the cracking sounds went away.

That's interesting. I've seen other reports of cracking sounds. I'm under warranty until 2009 but have never tried an HDMI source on my TV. I'm wondering how common it is to have sound issues (this is a bridge I'll have to fall off of when I get there -- with an HDMI component -- I suppose).

Daniel Murray

12-01-06, 05:02 PM

I get the Cracking sound when I use HDMI from my Pioneer Elite DV59AVI DVD Player. It dose it only when first turned on. But not on fire-wire or optics cable. I am way out of Warranty.

pip006

12-03-06, 01:04 AM

Daniel Murray

12-03-06, 02:58 PM

pip006, I am with you!!!!

pip006

12-04-06, 05:30 PM

I found a 62825 electrical chassis for the same price as a DM for my 62725. Do you think it would work? I looked at the parts for both set and the only one that is different is the front pcb. Not sure what that does but its only $24 from mitsubishi so it might be worth a shot.

spiff72

12-04-06, 07:40 PM

Daniel Murray

12-04-06, 08:26 PM

pip006 More info Please :eek: :D

macart

12-04-06, 09:25 PM

Help! I have two year old 52725, I'm on my third lamp now, and Saturday morning the set quit working, flashing red status light. The tech says I need a new DM board, but they are back ordered till late this month. Does anyone have any ideas, and should we be on our third lamp in 24 months? Average about 4 hours per day, keep the filter and vents vacumed as well as the lamp area.

macart

12-04-06, 09:25 PM

I have a 2yr old wd-62725 that needs a new electrical chassis or maybe just DM replaced according to the service tech that looked at it. He quoted me $1200 for repairs but for that price I will buy a new set. I want to repair this set but only if I can do it for cheap. I have completed disassembled it and reassembled it so I am somewhat familiar with the insides. I know that there are alot of knowledgeable people here and would appreciate it if someone could advise me on what to look for on the DM board. I would love to be able to repair the board instead of replacing it.
Help! I have two year old 52725, I'm on my third lamp now, and Saturday morning the set quit working, flashing red status light. The tech says I need a new DM board, but they are back ordered till late this month. Does anyone have any ideas, and should we be on our third lamp in 24 months? Average about 4 hours per day, keep the filter and vents vacumed as well as the lamp area.

pip006

12-04-06, 09:43 PM

Yeah I called Mits part dept today and DM is back ordered until 12/15/06. I found a guy who has a 62825 chassis and Im trying to get more info from him before I purchase it.

Daniel Murray

12-04-06, 10:02 PM

I wish that if the DM board is a problem with the 52725 - 62725 so on sets that MITSUBISHI would get a set of BALLS and recall the Boards!!!! But I Guss it is all about the Money and not the Customers just my Felling!!!

I HOPE SOME ONE FROM MITSUBISHI IS READING THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Heffe156

12-05-06, 01:34 PM

Has anybody expierenced moving vertical lines in the background of component inputs only,
when viewing a HD source? The source has to be 1080i, or 720P only. The HDMI input does not have this problem. I have a 52525, and this problem just started happening. I have been told it is prob my formatter board. Please reply!

UMD_Terp

12-06-06, 09:14 AM

Haven't checked into this thread in over a year now, but I thought I would drop in and see if there was any progress on getting Mitsubishi to fix the issue with the QAM tuner/firewire output. Have there been any FW updates past 4.05?

I have had no issues with my set up until now... still on the first bulb, but I've only put about 2000 hours on the thing...

Daniel Murray

12-06-06, 05:45 PM

No the last update was 4.05

UMD_Terp

12-06-06, 09:20 PM

thanks...

bkwells

12-10-06, 08:40 PM

My 62725 that I bought in Aug of '05 looks like it needs cleaning. There are splotches on several spots inside the screen. I have an extended warranty from Tweeter. I called my local store and they gave me the number to service, but they are not open on Sundays. The sales rep said though that the warranty didn't cover any type of annual cleaning/maintainance....

I have the steps on how to do it myself if Tweeter won't come out and clean the mirrors.

So far, I've had no issues with this set. There are 3800 hours on the bulb so far.

Daniel Murray

12-10-06, 09:07 PM

I say clean it your self it is very easy to do and it will give you self pride

btravis311

12-11-06, 09:14 AM

beachhouse

12-11-06, 09:27 AM

Mitsu Diamond WD-62825 s/n 105040 s/w version 26 005.02 manuf date November 2004

I am getting occasional audio problems over HDMI between a Pace HD cable box (Bright House) and the TV's audio. Seems to only happen on HD channels (i.e. Oprah, yes - Cooking Channel, no). The audio will either start stuttering (pic remains fine), or it cuts out alltogether. If I change the channel, and then back, it comes back just fine. Or, it will eventually catch up, and go back to normal. Very annoying, and I'm afraid the Sig O will be tossing the remote at the screen any day now.

2nd problem just started getting noticable. If I am surfing up channels, certain HD channels never display. I just get a grey screen. It's like it can't make up it's mind on what mode to use. If I direct enter the channel number, it displays almost immediately. But, I have to go to another channel before I can direct enter the number. Boy, does that sould like a software problem to me.

Ideas? Tried sitting on the phone with MDEA a couple of times. So far, the shortest wait time is over 20 minutes. Got a back door number?

Benji

12-11-06, 04:31 PM

How have you determined the number of hours on the bulb? An estimate? Or is there some sort of counter in the set's software? Thanks...
With your TV turned on, push menu, then 2-4-7-0. Push 'home' to exit menu.

Daniel Murray

12-11-06, 04:33 PM

I would call Mitsubishi and get the Firmware up date v26 4.05 I think you have v26. 04.02 and not 005.02

beachhouse

12-11-06, 05:06 PM

Good news!
I left a message with MDEA today, and they acutally called back. I have an upgrade to .05 coming in the mail. BTW, my version number is 05, not 04. She verified that.

I'll post whether it clears up the issues I'm having.

Daniel Murray

12-11-06, 07:55 PM

That is funny Mitsubishi told me not to long ago that 004.05 was the latest version. Maybe because you have the Demand 62825 where I have the Medallion 62725

boristhedog

12-12-06, 06:17 PM

Hey UMD_Terp and others....its been well over a year for me too. My 1st lamp finally went out over Thanksgiving, not sure how many hours (a bunch since my wife and kids leave the thing on basically all day!!) Panic ensued...did not want to miss football.

I hope no one is seeing the "bright spot"....

beachhouse

12-13-06, 06:16 PM

I received the upgrade today (2 days!) from Mitsu. After the upgrade, my netcommand version is now V26G++ 005.03. I will test the audio cutout, and the grey screen on some hd channels tonight and tomorrow.

shaggy2002

12-15-06, 03:16 PM

John Williams

12-15-06, 04:07 PM

Heffe156, I have the same problem you have except for I have faint diagonal lines when using components for an SD signal. This happens with my DVR and DVD player both hooked into seperate inputs using seperate component cables. Daniel suggested I get a power conditioner so I talked to some guy at a Tweeter here. He thinks that I have a Sync issue and need to get my tv Repaired. I don't know what I am going to do now. I am paranoid if I go drop $250 on a conditioner and my problem still exists, or the opposite I get a repairman out and he says he can't fix it is another problem and I am out $80 or so for him to show up. Anyone else have any input?

Interesting -- I just started noticing the faint diagonal lines on my RGBHV input as well. It almost reminds me of a bad TV signal / multipath kind of distortion, but in this case the display is being driven by an iScan VP30. And I don't recall seeing this before. This is on a 720p input, btw.

Is the consensus that something's amiss on the...formatter board? I already have the TV on a UPS so that's not it, although I will try plugging it directly into the wall to make sure that's not introducing the problem, all of the sudden.

I have an extended warranty, so I'm not too worried but it is rather annoying.

-John

beachhouse

12-15-06, 09:26 PM

Not so good news.
I still have the audio cut out on HD channels, and the same channels that come up as a grey blank screen remain the same.

I'd like to think it's the PACE box, or Bright House's fault, but I don't hear any complaining from other residents. Any other Diamond owners experiencing what I am? HDMI connection between the pace and the 62825.

pip006

12-16-06, 03:34 AM

Whew finally got my DM board replaced,, it took me about 20 hours since kept messing up. Oh well, guess I still saved a few hundred bucks.

Daniel Murray

12-16-06, 06:25 AM

Whew finally got my DM board replaced,, it took me about 20 hours since kept messing up. Oh well, guess I still saved a few hundred bucks.
Did you use the 62825 for the parts? How much did it cost you for the DM?

bkwells

12-17-06, 07:53 PM

I say clean it your self it is very easy to do and it will give you self pride

Well, I did it myself this weekend and it looks MUCH BETTER!! You're right.. it wasn't difficult at all.

Daniel Murray

12-17-06, 09:27 PM

bkwells, My hat is off to you I am glade it worked out for you. Now did you pull the lamp out and wipe it down? You would be very surprise on how much dust gets on the lamp!!!! Most people when they wipe the lamp gets a much brighter pitcher.

pip006

12-17-06, 09:49 PM

Yeah I used the DM from the 62825 chassis. It cost 500 for the whole chassis which would be the price for just a DM from Mitsubishi. But now I have some extra parts that might come in handy down the road.

Daniel Murray

12-17-06, 10:28 PM

buellit

12-18-06, 08:48 AM

I say clean it your self it is very easy to do and it will give you self pride
Hi, first time poster but long time lurker here.

Do I need to remove the diamond shield prior to removing the screen for mirror cleaning or can they be removed together as a unit?

Thanks in advance!

paudemge

12-18-06, 09:16 AM

No you do not need to remove the shield, and it probably better that you leave it on when you remove the screen.

pip006

12-18-06, 04:05 PM

DM board is different but works the same. Only difference I see is that an HDrecorder icon is available but I just removed it.

Funcha

12-21-06, 04:31 PM

I actually have a WD-52525 but am posting here because that thread seems to be dead. I've been opening my set to clean it out on occasion for some time now. I love the set, but if I had any idea about all the maintenance issues when I got it I may have chosen a CRT or plasma. :mad:

I've only in the last 6 -9 months noticed a very faint bright spot on my set in very dark material. I've been watching the X-Files lately, which brings the spot right up front and center! My spot is actually around the 10:30 to 11:00 position, or upper lefthand corner of the set near the middle. Barely noticeable but still there, nonetheless.

On the last cleaning I noticed my foam was separated on the righthand side like so many other sets, so I taped it up with black electrical tape. I recently replaced the lamp after almost 2 1/2 years. I accidentally swiped my finger on the large upper mirror when doing so, which left a nickel sized smudge. What sucks is when I used the special cleaning solution along with the microfiber cloth I got horrible streaks all over the mirror! Luckily, the picture quality doesn't seem to be affected but I still want to wipe it down until there are no streaks. The solution is safe for those kind of mirrors but I'm definitely going to get the LEXAN cleaner now upon recommendation.

Here's my question...can the DLP projection lens be cleaned with microfiber cloths? When I originally had the tech clean the screen 6 months after purchase (August '04) he said that the lens should never be cleaned as it could scratch. Because of that I've avoided it like the plague, but many of you say it can be cleaned. I've noticed whites look a bit "grainy" almost, and think cleaning the actual lens might clear that up.

I noticed that the bright spot didn't go away after the duct tape and actually tried something that may work for those of you with it. I increased the brightness on the set and the bright spot actually went away a little into the 40s. This was on the Oppo upconverting player input. The spot still seemed to be there with the Toshiba HDA1 connected though. I remember reading that 2.0 firmware on it causes black crush so I'm going to hook it via the analogs and see if that fixes the issue.

scheerce

12-22-06, 09:06 AM

I have moved into a new house and only have OTA hooked up right now. Before was always cable. I have noticed that when a TV show flips from the HD show, to a non-HD commercial, the TV sometimes shuts down. It will come back up normally until last night. Last night it did not come back up normally. I had to rescan the OTA and only got 1 OTA-HD channel. I have the latest firmware and the TV is 13 months old, 650 hours. May be a bad OTA tuner? Or is the TV sensitive to the source flipping and shuts itself down? I never experienced this when receiving TV through a cable box.

KJDAVE

12-22-06, 06:46 PM

to Funcha I have the 52525 also and have the dreaded bright spot haven't seen any real fixes for it in this thread so far. I try to ignore it and just watch the programs life is to short to stress out over it.

lcaillo

12-22-06, 07:57 PM

Here's my question...can the DLP projection lens be cleaned with microfiber cloths? When I originally had the tech clean the screen 6 months after purchase (August '04) he said that the lens should never be cleaned as it could scratch. Because of that I've avoided it like the plague, but many of you say it can be cleaned. I've noticed whites look a bit "grainy" almost, and think cleaning the actual lens might clear that up.

The lens is no different than any of the fine optics. Yes it can be cleaned. You need to be sure that your MF cloth is very clean and wet the cloth with the cleaner. I use the GE Cleaner for Lexan and have tested it on lots of coated lenses and even left it on for long periods. It has not affected any of the projection lenses in any way that I can find. You can easily scratch the coating, so make sure that your first pass is with a cloth very damp with the cleaner, then move to clean parts of the cloth for the each pass over the lens. Do not wipe more than needed.

The light spot is likely something on the screen or mirror. Clean them carefully like you would the lens.

The grainiy look is likely nothing to do with cleaning. Grain is usually source related or related to having enhancement or sharpness set on or too high.

thoehner

12-29-06, 09:57 PM

WD-52725 Software = 4.05 Bulb = 3067 hours

I have had my 52725 for about 2 years and have not had any issues until recently. My set has developed a sparkle that looks almost like ghosting. The sparkle is not dependent on the input being used, I have disconnected all inputs and tried them one at a time, and get the same results. The sparkle appears as white dots on bright screens and the blue menus, but appears as blue and red on a black background. They appear to be mostly concentrated to a collum about 25% of the distance from the left edge of the picture about 6" wide, but do appear less often on the rest of the screen.

I do have a Monster power HTS 1000 connected, and have tried both the HTS 3600, and the Panamax 5100 with no improvement. I also turned off all other breakers in my house to eliminate the possibility of interference from other appliances, but no improvement.

Any suggest would be appreciated, since Mitsubishi was of little help. They did agree to send me software version 4.06 even though all the issues fixed by this version seemed to be with the cable card.

This is my first post, so I am not sure if I attached the pictures correctly.

black screen.jpg
menu 1.jpg
menu 2.jpg

Daniel Murray

12-29-06, 11:04 PM

Nice to have you on board :D
You may have a stuck mirrors and I think you are getting software 4.05 not 4.06.

PauldF

01-04-07, 11:44 PM

Hi gang!

It's been awhile. Spent a lot of time here when researching my set and during first few days of set up - since then things have been fine for the most part. I bought my WD62725 in Oct '05 at BestBuy and got an extended warrantee. I'm on whatever firmware came with it.

This November we came out one morning to the blinking green 'Timer' light. Wouldn't power on. Read manual - tried system reset - nothing. Kept trying - nothing. Unplugged unit and waited 1 hour, plugged back in - got blinking light tried resetting = nothing doing. Repeated procedure after unplugging unit overnight = nothing. Called BB Service call center and while talking to them last reset seemed to magically take effect and green blinking went to solid - powered on, all ok, cancelled call. Flash forward to Dec 21st - exact same situation. Nothing worked this time. Unplugged unit, went on vacation, came back on 31st tried again - nothing. Placed call to Service. Tech came out Wed. Hotline told him to try disengaging card reader - he did so to no avail - hotline told him that he would need to order a DM board and try swapping it. He buttoned up the TV, said he would order and would call when it came in to come back out. He said this is a finicky TV and that in his experience swapping the DM board only worked about 50% of the time and that if that it did not work, then the entire chassis internals would have to be swapped out. Lastly, since I can't turn the set on I guess I can't tell you what level firmware I'm on - or can I find out by build date?

Questions:

1. Has swapping the DM board worked for anyone else who had this problem?
2. Is it normal to wait a month for a DM board as I read in a different thread?
3. Do I have any options/leverage with BB w/ re: the long repair down time?
4. Does anyone know what the cause of this problem actually is?
5. Will upgrading Firmware help?

The only other issues I've noticed over the past year or so is that HD channels seem much darker than SD channel showing the same show/game - is this normal/can I make this better? Also, whites appear greenish sometimes and can be really bad during darker scenes - I've tried all the basic settings to change, but to no avail - is this normal/can I make this better? LOTR DVD's = EVERYTHING SEEMS GREEN!!!! - just the nature of the source?????

I've loved my Mits so far and previous ones too. Any info/ help you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Without going through 200+ pages of previous posts can anyone point me where to go to get access to those basic parms like bulb hours, S/W and F/W versions etc.?? Do I need to go into the service menu to fix any of the things I've mentioned, if so how? I have tried the DVE disk and don't seem to be able to make much of a change in the picture color for the better, and since BB won't really help much with that do I need to find/pay an ISF tech to help??

Thanks for your input!

Paul

delar

01-05-07, 01:33 AM

Paul, I don't have the answers you are looking for, but I'll comment anyway. Your problem is similar to what I've experienced, which was a blinking green light, though mine appeared intermittently. Sometimes I noticed it in the morning upon waking and sometimes it appeared while I was watching the TV. Usually the TV would restart normally, but eventually it got so bad (constant green blink) that I had to call the service agency. Turned out that it was the reset circuit which is located on the DM board. The replacement of this board fixed the problem. The tech was able to order and receive it in a weeks time.

Several people here have had their DM board replaced. The DM board appears to be the most intricate board in the TV, so I guess it's complexity might lead to a greater failure rate compared to the other boards.

I'm pretty sure upgrading the firmware won't fix the problem, but it can't hurt either. You should get it anyway. It's free!

As far as the green tint, I've known from the beginning that my TV had a green push, one that was uncorrectable. You make it sound as if this is something that you've only noticed recently so its possible it could be something else you're seeing. Maybe your bulb has dimmed to the point where greens seem more pronounced. I don't know. You might consider a new bulb, keeping your old one as backup.

Hope this helps.

PauldF

01-05-07, 11:49 AM

Delar,
Thanks for the reply. I hope I will have some good luck and get it resolved next week with the DM board swap!
I admit that I had read in this forum before buying that the Mits had some tendancy towards a greener display rather than redder or otherwise (Push in correct terminology?), but did not really see it at the store. After buying, all I really did as a neophyte was to make sure my contrast, brightness etc were'nt set too high. I guess it has always been greener on some channels/sources than others so maybe I fell asleep thinking it wasn't really the unit. As I've spent more time with it I think I am starting to pay more attention/getting more critical - you know, you don't really notice that mole on her nose untill sometime after the honeymoon!! You said this is uncorrectable. Can you explain why in laymans terms for me? Uncorrectable doesn't always mean you can't make it better, just not able to make it go away completely - right? So what steps can I as a newbie take to make it the best it can be?

Thanks for yours and any others input!

Paul

IFLYSWA

01-05-07, 12:42 PM

Recently my 62725 has been giving me the question about whether I have replaced the lamp very frequently on power up. I am pretty sure that I haven't been losing power to the set, particularly since I have it on a UPS. Do you think this is an indication the lamp is getting ready to go? I am thinking it might be dimming some, too, but I still haven't cleaned my mirrors, so that could be the deal there. I'm on my original firmware, but the update should be hitting my mailbox anyday. So, any thoughts as to whether it is getting close to lamp replacement time would be appreciated...

Thanks!
Randy

lujan

01-05-07, 12:45 PM

Hi gang!

...

...

Questions:

...

The only other issues I've noticed over the past year or so is that HD channels seem much darker than SD channel showing the same show/game - is this normal/can I make this better? Also, whites appear greenish sometimes and can be really bad during darker scenes - ...

...

Thanks for your input!

Paul

Yes, the HD (digital) channels are much darker than their equivalent SD (analog) channels. I have not noticed the whites appearing green though.

BuffaloDenny

01-06-07, 12:07 AM

[QUOTE=bkwells]My 62725 that I bought in Aug of '05 looks like it needs cleaning. There are splotches on several spots inside the screen. ....

I have the steps on how to do it myself if Tweeter won't come out and clean the mirrors.

QUOTE]

Where are the steps to clean the mirrors located? I'd love to do this myself, as I've got the same issue as you indicated.

delar

01-06-07, 12:25 AM

You said this is uncorrectable. Can you explain why in laymans terms for me? Uncorrectable doesn't always mean you can't make it better, just not able to make it go away completely - right? So what steps can I as a newbie take to make it the best it can be?
I've never had my set ISF calibrated, so I cannot say with absolute certainty that the green push is uncorrectable. What I mean is that using the settings accessable in the adjustment menus, I was unable to correct this issue to my complete satisfaction. I suppose there could be settings in the service menu that could do the job, but I haven't a clue what they are or how to adjust them.

Basically, I just adjusted the user accessable settings to where the picture looked its best to me. That's the only recommendation I can make to you.

Daniel Murray

01-06-07, 06:16 AM

Try to make the color adjustment in pitcher perfect. Go to TV menu and push enter. Go to pitcher perfect press enter and go to green, Now adjust it.

bmw528is

01-08-07, 10:53 PM

paudemge

01-08-07, 11:06 PM

I usually have my bightness and contrast set pretty high, but this is because there is a lot of ambient light in the room where the tv is.

DubC

01-09-07, 02:20 PM

Check to see if Auto Color in the TV menu is selected. If so, unselecting it might help the problem.

Auto Color should not be selected. Make sure to check each input.

DubC

01-09-07, 02:46 PM

Does anyone have the contrast set at 60 or similar? I can appreciate the cinema feel that the Mitsubishi DLP's have (I like the realistic look ie. film as opposed to the washed-out too bright approach of some LCD's) but for sports, I like the picture to "pop". Has anyone used the DVD from Sound & Vision to calibrate the video? It feels like a lot of HD shows are just plain dark. I'm sure this topic has been covered before. I'm using the component video instead of HDMI.......seems better. Maybe it's just the protective screen? Don't get me wrong, I like that look for movies.
A couple variations that others have posted:

Settings on component 1, DVD, after calibration with DVE:

Magenta - 30
Red - 37
Yellow - 32
Green - 32
Cyan - 28
Blue - 28

Color Temp - Low
Noise - Standard
Film Mode - Auto
Define Edge - On
Contrast - 40
Brightness - 35
Sharpness - 48
Color - 30
Tint – 29

- - - - - -

DVD via Component

Magenta 36
Red 40
Yellow 29
Green 41
Cyan 33
Blue 31

Contrast 29
Brightness 46
Sharpness 21
Temp Low
Tint 28
Color 32
V Noise std
Edge on

- - - - - - - -

Here are cablebox settings for hdmi and component:

HDMI/Component

Magenta 54/51
Red 57/33
Yellow 45/39
Green 32/29
Cyan 31/29
Blue 63/31
Sharpness 29/15
Temp Low/low
Tnt 32/32
Color 31/31
Bright 26/44
Contrast 60/48
Definedge - off
Noise Reduction - standard

- - - - - - -

component-1, DVD, Avia calibration:

Magenta - 38
Red - 44
Yellow - 31
Green - 32
Cyan - 29
Blue - 43

Color Temp - Low
Noise - Standard
Film Mode - Auto
Define Edge - On
Contrast - 25
Brightness - 47
Sharpness - 16
Color - 30
Tint - 29

gregtheman

01-09-07, 02:56 PM

Here are cablebox settings for hdmi and component:

HDMI/Component

Magenta 54/51
Red 57/33
Yellow 45/39
Green 32/29
Cyan 31/29
Blue 63/31
Sharpness 29/15
Temp Low/low
Tnt 32/32
Color 31/31
Bright 26/44
Contrast 60/48
Definedge - off
Noise Reduction - standard

I'm a newbie here, but have an older WD-52725. I calibrated with the DVE and fall more in line with the high Contrast setting of 63 and a lower Brightness setting of 20. My question is how do you all calibrate the settings for your cable box input? It would be helpful if there was a pluge or similar on a channel to calibrate with.

Felizpicano

01-09-07, 05:46 PM

Hello,

I can't seem to find a way to remove ANT-1 or CABLE-2 from my input selection menu. Nothing is plugged into either one of these inputs so they aren't receiving a signal. Also, neither of these inputs shows up on the Input Name section of the Menu so I can't turn them "off" there. Any ideas?

gtreanto

01-09-07, 06:41 PM

You manage your inputs from the Netcommand menus.

Daniel Murray

01-09-07, 07:35 PM

I think I know where the bright spot on the screen is coming from when the screen is dark. I will try the fix on Thursday and tell you my find. If I am right it is very easy to fix. But we will see in two days.

bmw528is

01-09-07, 10:48 PM

Wow, I'm just amazed at the disparity between settings for component and HDMI. I mostly watch DirecTV on Comp-1.....occasionally DVD through HDMI. I was concerned about shortening the life of the lamp using a high contrast level. I'm sure, also, that every set may be different, not to mention the use of different DVD players, cable vs satellite, etc. I've also noticed that some a/v publications recommend sharpness levels set extremely low. I find it best in the upper 20's.

I find myself subconsciously comparing the perceived brightness of my Mitsubishi to several plasma TV's that friends own. Anyway, thanks for posting the calibration results.

lcaillo

01-10-07, 09:06 AM

Contrast adjustments do not affect lamp life at all on these sets.

AARGH2K

01-10-07, 10:51 AM

DubC

01-10-07, 12:40 PM

I have seen lots of complaints/comments on dust on the mirror. I have just had my 3rd visit from a tech to clean mine, and this seems to be an every 6 month event. I know most of you guys on here are comfortable (or at least seems like it) in taking yours apart and cleaning it yourself. Has anyone actually addressed this with Mitsubishi or your dealer on getting a replacement? Each tech that came out said this was a problem with the chasis for that model year.

I bought mine from the Big Screen Store here in Dulles VA, curious if anyone has had any luck going down this route, as I see this as more of a design defect than owner maintenance.

thanks!

You need to check the area around the lens. There is a foam piece that surrounds it. Mine, and others, was peeling away from the hard plastic (mine on the upper right-hand side). I could not get the foam to stay in place so I used duct tape to seal off the area. I haven't seen any dust spots since doing this, HOWEVER, I did have a mosquito get in there somehow.