Contrast adjustments do not affect lamp life at all on these sets.

I would be relieved if that were true. I have read information to the contrary. I wonder if dust inside the TV would cause the picture to appear somewhat darker overall, or do you need to see "blotches" or spots that indicate dust?

I'm slightly hesitant to take off the screen and investigate, although I would attempt to do so if I knew there was dust in there. There certainly is dust on the hardwood floors in the room!

I would be relieved if that were true. I have read information to the contrary.


Contrast settings have no affect on bulb life. The bulb is just "on". There is no dim setting on this TV.


I wonder if dust inside the TV would cause the picture to appear somewhat darker overall, or do you need to see "blotches" or spots that indicate dust?


The picture darkens and you may see dark splotches. Both.

I would be relieved if that were true. I have read information to the contrary. I wonder if dust inside the TV would cause the picture to appear somewhat darker overall, or do you need to see "blotches" or spots that indicate dust?

I'm slightly hesitant to take off the screen and investigate, although I would attempt to do so if I knew there was dust in there. There certainly is dust on the hardwood floors in the room!
Yes clean the mirrors and wipe the Lamp down. That will make your pitcher brighter and take care of any blotches.
Daniel :D

So much maintenance and $$$ involved with this TV. I think it is capable of displaying a great picture, and at the time (last summer), it was a hell of a lot cheaper than a 50" plasma. Space and/or being flat wasn't a concern. I simply wanted the best picture for under $3K. But at this point, I think if I had to do it all over again, I'd get the plasma (hate to say it).

... But at this point, I think if I had to do it all over again, I'd get the plasma (hate to say it).

Don't plasma's have burn-in issues though? So far, I'm very happy with my 62525. I haven't had to clean the mirrors or change the bulb yet and it will be 3 years old in September.

You need to check the area around the lens. There is a foam piece that surrounds it. Mine, and others, was peeling away from the hard plastic (mine on the upper right-hand side). I could not get the foam to stay in place so I used duct tape to seal off the area. I haven't seen any dust spots since doing this, HOWEVER, I did have a mosquito get in there somehow.

thanks for the info! Since I'm not that comfortable taking mine apart, will bring info I've gathered here and take it to "The Big Screen Store" and see about getting this fixed permanently before my warranty expires in 5 months.

I think I know where the bright spot on the screen is coming from when the screen is dark. I will try the fix on Thursday and tell you my find. If I am right it is very easy to fix. But we will see in two days.
OK I took the back cover off the set and then I removed the metal backing.
The Lamp has some light that gets by the light engine. So I look at where it was shining at. so this is what I did.
I took "Black Duck Tap" and covered the in side of the metal plate so light will not bounce off and give light in to the mirror which there is a small oping to it. There is a little circuitboard that goes from the light engine to just above the lens on the in side by the mirrors. I put Black duck tap on the side off the metal cage for the circiutboard near the light engine to the side of the set. I then took off the screen and saw some holes on the in side and I tape them off. They are just below the Big Mirror and above the lens.
I have not seen any light on the screen with a black screen or like when you turn the set off during the cool down before the lamp goes out.

P.S I read that some of you have a noise fan. It is the fan for the lamp. and looks very easy to replace.

Well, I wish I had found this forum earlier, but ........ :(

My 62725 purchased in October '04 is now been dismantled to find that hidden jewel, the DM Board! I had seen on other forums that the DM Board could be a problem and that replacing the caps (16V,1000uf,105C) would possibly make everything right.

The problem I had was that the screen would show nothing but large black and white rectangles somewhat like a checkerboard pattern. This happened a few times and each time reset would take care of it. However, it started to happen more frequently and then the pattern became very small black and white rectangles. This pattern filled the entire screen. The Mits is out of warranty and I decided to DYI it. Now, based on this forum, I think I may have jumped the gun!

First, I don't know what version of firmware I have and cannot check now. Do you think that could have caused the problem?

Second, since I have already found the infamous DM Board, should I go ahead and replace the caps? (BTW does anyone know where I can find replacements?)

Third, I hope I can get it all back together, otherwise I will be back here asking for more help.

I apologize for the long post, but I hope someone can help. I think this is a wonderful forum and will definitely use things I have found on here to maintain my Mits once I get it back in operation. Next up will be mirror cleaning, then ........ :rolleyes:

I would be very surprised if 'the caps' were the problem. I have seen capacitors fail but it is not typically a high risk component.
With that said, a cap that large would be used for filterering the secondary voltages and a shorted cap could take down that voltage so I guess it would be a credible failure mode. It should be easy to test for with an ohmmeter without blindly replacing the caps.
If you want a place to get them, www.mouser.com or www.digikey.com are good places to get electronics components.

Good Luck

The sets that have tended to have the bad capacitors in the DM supply have been the CRT based sets. I have not heard of this in the DLP sets at all.

The symptom described would be more typical of a defective or poorly seated FMT board. I would not suggest this as a DIY project unless you have the training literature.

Don't plasma's have burn-in issues though? So far, I'm very happy with my 62525. I haven't had to clean the mirrors or change the bulb yet and it will be 3 years old in September.

Too bad my first lamp lasted only 1800 hours....that's why I thought that maybe having the contrast level at a high setting might have reduced the lamp life. To add to my misfortune, the connector fell off inside the TV when I tried to install the new lamp. Poor design. My whites get crushed if contrast is set too high.

Some new plamsa models are better at reducing burn-in potential.

I finally went ahead and checked out how my tilt looked on my Mits.WD52725 and made some adjustments to the Hex Head thumbscrews that are mentioned in other posts. I seem to have the top and bottom pretty even as far as how much of the line is visable and there is no sign of any Red line showing but on the sides I can't seem to adjust out the Red line on both sides. There is an even amount of Red on both sides though. UMD_Terp mentioned not to worry about the overall positioning of the Vertical and Horizontal on this and that it could be adjusted in the menus. Can anybody give me any pointers or help with this?

Yes, the horizontal and vertical position can be adjusted from the service menus.

To enter the service menu, press the TV MENU button to access the menu. Then key in the remote 2 - 4 - 5 - 7 . That brings up the service menu. Use the AUDIO button to page through the submenu items and use the VIDEO button to access the various settings under each of the submenus. Use the UP/DOWN adjustments to adjust the values and use ENTER/OK to write them to the EEPROM. The menu letters turning red indicates that the values have been written. To exit the menu, hit the HOME key. If you exit the menu without pressing ENTER/OK, the values will not be saved. To access the built in test patterns, press the REW and FF keys on the remote to cycle through them. There are two test patterns that allow you to measure overscan as well as a few color patterns. Three patterns are grids with dots.
Format
Item #, Abbrev., Description, Data Range
1 HPOS Horizontal Position 0~255
2 VPOS Vertical Position *0~255
* Do Not set VPOS Data to 0 or 255 and press Enter.
(Video will be muted and On Screen Menus will no longer be visible.)

In a very old thread UMD_Terp says that you shouldnt see any of the Red lines on any of the edges of the test pattern. I seem to have prominent Red showing on just the Right and Left sides of the image. How do I illiminate those in other words? Other than that problem I am satisfied with the way it is adjusted as far as the tilt is concerned.

Yes, the horizontal and vertical position can be adjusted from the service menus.

To enter the service menu, press the TV MENU button to access the menu. Then key in the remote 2 - 4 - 5 - 7 . That brings up the service menu. Use the AUDIO button to page through the submenu items and use the VIDEO button to access the various settings under each of the submenus. Use the UP/DOWN adjustments to adjust the values and use ENTER/OK to write them to the EEPROM. The menu letters turning red indicates that the values have been written. To exit the menu, hit the HOME key. If you exit the menu without pressing ENTER/OK, the values will not be saved. To access the built in test patterns, press the REW and FF keys on the remote to cycle through them. There are two test patterns that allow you to measure overscan as well as a few color patterns. Three patterns are grids with dots.
Format
Item #, Abbrev., Description, Data Range
1 HPOS Horizontal Position 0~255
2 VPOS Vertical Position *0~255
* Do Not set VPOS Data to 0 or 255 and press Enter.
(Video will be muted and On Screen Menus will no longer be visible.)

Very good info, thanks SK8_MD!!! :)

Can you adjust the tilt from these menus? The left side of my screen is lower than the right.

:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

I would just like to know how to get the Red lines out from the sides of the screen. I think my picture would have to be stretched out a bit in order to do that but I can't do this with these adjustments. There not on the top or bottom edges just on the sides. If anybody can help here I would appreciate it. I am thinking though that this is a dead thread because of the age of my Mitsu.WD52725.

Hi everyone,

Recently I went to use the V-Chip lock feature which allows you to lock the TV (FWIW I have the WD-62725) during certain times of the day. However, when the feature is enabled/on (say I've told it to lock the TV from 11am to 4pm) and I turn the TV on when it should be unlocked (say 5pm), after watching TV a few minutes the lock code screen will appear and request the lock code to unlock the TV.

Similarly, if I go to use the TV during the hours of the day when it should be locked, I enter the lock code (as it should), and it unlocks the TV for a few minutes but then after a few more minutes (say 5-10 minutes) it will again pop the lock code screen and ask for the code again. It seems to keep doing this even when I I haven't turned on the rating (lock based on content rating of PG, MA, etc.) lock.

The way its currently working the v-chip function is worthless. Several months ago I called Mits on it and they sent me a software upgrade (I'm now running version 26.004.05). I installed it and it didn't help. I haven't called them back but thought I'd check here before doing so.

I tried searching this thread to see if others are experiencing this but didn't find anything.

Any thoughts or advice?

Thanks

This one's dead too! Are TV's are old.

This one's dead too! Are TV's are old.

Did you mean "Our Tv's are old?

Or maybe nobody knows the answer to your question...plenty of people still get pinged when someone posts here.

I would just like to know how to get the Red lines out from the sides of the screen. I think my picture would have to be stretched out a bit in order to do that but I can't do this with these adjustments. There not on the top or bottom edges just on the sides. If anybody can help here I would appreciate it. I am thinking though that this is a dead thread because of the age of my Mitsu.WD52725.
Do you have black bars (left and right) while watching HD content? If not, I wouldn't worry about the red lines.

The last thing you want to do with a HD picture is Zoom or Stretch it. Why rob yourself of perfectly good HD.

Very good info, thanks SK8_MD!!! :)

Can you adjust the tilt from these menus? The left side of my screen is lower than the right.

No, You can't adjust the tilt with the menu but it is easily done with the keystone adjustments behind the front panel.

Oops! Meant Our's,Thanks.

No, You can't adjust the tilt with the menu but it is easily done with the keystone adjustments behind the front panel.

No. You adjust keystone with the keystone adjustments behind the front panel. This interacts with tilt and position, but you cannot adjust tilt there without affecting the other adjustments. If you want a tilt adjustment that does not significantly interact with keystone, you need to adjust the tilt adjustment on the light engine, accessible from the rear of the set after rmoving the covers.

The condition I'am talking about is not Tilt. My test pattern looks good that way(the patttern with the white,green and yellow lines and red to the very outside of the patttern)those seem to be very good as far as any weird tilting. But I was just a little worried about the Red line to the outside side edges. As I stated in an earlier post that UMD_Terp says that you shouldnt see any of the red line on any of the edges. Mine are just on each side edge and not the top or bottom so that wouldnt be a tilt issue.

The condition I'am talking about is not Tilt. My test pattern looks good that way(the patttern with the white,green and yellow lines and red to the very outside of the patttern)those seem to be very good as far as any weird tilting. But I was just a little worried about the Red line to the outside side edges. As I stated in an earlier post that UMD_Terp says that you shouldnt see any of the red line on any of the edges. Mine are just on each side edge and not the top or bottom so that wouldnt be a tilt issue.

I am trying to understand why you are concerned that you can see the red lines in the overscan test pattern. If you see them, and the picture isn't radically shifted one way or the other, doesn't this just mean that you have very little overscan? Or is the red line representative of the "safe area", and if you get outside this area, you might see stuff you don't want to see in the broadcast?

Update on my 'Blinking Green Timer Light of Death' issue. I had a Magnolia/BB tech out on 1/3 who said I would at least need a new DM board. It has been 2 weeks and no-one from Mag/BB has called back and no-one from the mits website has written in response to my emails. I have called back several times and as of today I have a supervisor ('Lee') looking into my repair and why things are taking so long. Needless to say, not very happy with BB service or with Mits Consumer Relations right now. One way communications and no action!

The best thing is to Call Mitsubush. They never reply with email

Update on my 'Blinking Green Timer Light of Death' issue. I had a Magnolia/BB tech out on 1/3 who said I would at least need a new DM board. It has been 2 weeks and no-one from Mag/BB has called back and no-one from the mits website has written in response to my emails. I have called back several times and as of today I have a supervisor ('Lee') looking into my repair and why things are taking so long. Needless to say, not very happy with BB service or with Mits Consumer Relations right now. One way communications and no action!
The DM board might be on backorder, and if so, it would be nice if the tech guys would tell you this. I suppose you could find out by calling Mitsubishi and seeing if any are in stock. If they are, then maybe the techs are swamped with work. Either way, it's not very professional to keep the customer in the dark like this.

Kenestra, what's important is that everything is level and square. A little "pin coushin" effect, where the red lines bow in or out toward the center of the vertical and horizontal borders is normal for these sets. Even if you're able to "correct" what you perceive as a problem, it will have no noticeable effect on your viewing experience. Actually, seeing the red line all the way around tells you that you have just a smidge of overscan, which is great. Much better than an underscan condition imo. You are seeing "the whole picture". Quit worrying. There are far more important settings to adjust that noticeably effect the PQ.

BTW, I just checked my TV. Red lines on the left and right edge, white lines only on the top and bottom.

DM modules for the V26 (WD-XX725 series sets) are currently unavailable. They are likely waiting for more to be refurbished. I would suggest calling Mitsubishi Customer relations. As said above, do not expect a response to emails. Send them a registered letter by US Mail if you communicate in writing.

A Mits phone # I have: (949) 830-8364

Hope it still works.

Too bad my first lamp lasted only 1800 hours....that's why I thought that maybe having the contrast level at a high setting might have reduced the lamp life. To add to my misfortune, the connector fell off inside the TV when I tried to install the new lamp. Poor design. My whites get crushed if contrast is set too high.

Some new plamsa models are better at reducing burn-in potential.

i just tried replacing my lamp and evidently pushed it in too hard. The connectors fell out of the housing. Any suggestions on fixing?

i just tried replacing my lamp and evidently pushed it in too hard. The connectors fell out of the housing. Any suggestions on fixing?
There is a way to take the back partially off and reach inside and push the connectors back in to the lamp but it requires 2 people, and a bit of nerve. I would call a service person. Elsewhere in this thread someone did successfully do this.

i just tried replacing my lamp and evidently pushed it in too hard. The connectors fell out of the housing. Any suggestions on fixing?

See this post for a link:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8263841#post8263841

Thank you all for the help. I found that post and fixed the problem myself today. The new lamp made a huge difference in the picture. I had over 4000 hours on the original. Just like new again!

Thanks...

Bob

This thread has so much good info in it

This thread has so much good info in it

You are so right Daniel. I have had my 52725 since Nov, '05 and keep coming back to this thread for some great updates and info for maintenance.

I'm the new owner of a used WD-52725 and a new reader of this forum. There is sooooooo much info here! How can a newbie like me mine the most useful nuggets of info???? Is there a FAQ or something where all the special codes and tips and tricks are collected?

Impressions so far:
-Fantastic picture, HD is really nice and I've not seen any of the artifacts I read people complain about here

-Netcommand sucks. It may be powerful and useful but the manual fails miserably and the menus aren't much help either. The UI is so clunky and cryptic as to render it almost unusable.

Questions:
-How can I get the IR cables that came with the set? Mine didn't transfer with it.
-COMP-1 and COMP-2 don't seem to work on my set. I tried to hook up my DVD player through these inputs and nothing seems to work. I ended up getting it to work on the DTV composite inputs. Could be user error here but I tried every conceivable combination of Netcommand settings to no avail.
-Can I still get Mits to issue an upgrade to the firmware? I think I may have the audio delay problem and I'm running 4.02. The latest is 4.05?

Great forum!

Tony

FYI
I just got off the phone with Mits customer service and they informed me that the latest firmware version for the WD-52725 is 4.06.

Thank you aperotti,
They are sending out my update today.
Daniel

OMG...I can't believe the number of pages this thread is...

Tried searching for help about the weird oversaturated green color this set has so I can adjust my parents Mitsu DLP but there are SO many hits for the word "green"...can someone offer tips...maybe a way to fix it via service menu perhaps?

(need the instructions on how to get into the service menu BTW) :)

Many thanks!

OMG...I can't believe the number of pages this thread is...

Tried searching for help about the weird oversaturated green color this set has so I can adjust my parents Mitsu DLP but there are SO many hits for the word "green"...can someone offer tips...maybe a way to fix it via service menu perhaps?

(need the instructions on how to get into the service menu BTW) :)

Many thanks!
Check to see if the "Auto Color" option in the TV menu is selected. Make sure it IS NOT selected.

Keep us posted.

Gordon, I don't think there's anything in the service menu that could help you adjust the green saturation you're seeing. If there is an adjustment there, I'd only trust an ISF calibrator to touch it. Use the Perfectcolor settings to get the picture looking as good as possible. If you're seeing this greenishness over HDMI, then you might be in the same boat as some folks who report that the PQ over the HDMI connection is poor compared to the component connection, with a greenish push being one of the problems.

Daniel, is there a way you can check the contents of the flashcard first before inserting it into you TV? I'm curious to know what "fixes" there are in this firmware release, and the file names on the card might give us an idea.

OMG...I can't believe the number of pages this thread is...

Tried searching for help about the weird oversaturated green color this set has so I can adjust my parents Mitsu DLP but there are SO many hits for the word "green"...can someone offer tips...maybe a way to fix it via service menu perhaps?

(need the instructions on how to get into the service menu BTW) :)

Many thanks!

What does oversaturated green color mean? Is the gray scale too green, or severely green? Are colors too gren? Are the OSD items green also? Has it changed since the set was new?

I would not go messing with the service menu unless you know what you are doing are you are going to do some reading about what might be possible. If the green is severe and beyond just needing a bit of tweaking, you might have a bad FMT board.

My upgrade card is on the way too. I think I can read the card on my computer's card reader. If I can I'll post the directory information here.

Did anyone at Mits specify what "fixes" were included with the .06 firmware?

Did anyone at Mits specify what "fixes" were included with the .06 firmware?


1) fixes crashing with certain closed captioning on digital programs
2) fixes audio dropouts on some cablecard channels
3) fixes issues with cablecard channels being tuned properly
4) fixes issues with digital music channels not working
5) fixes issues with OTA tuner not adding channels

basically a bunch of fixes on the digital tuners. For those with cablecards it is probably definitely worth it. I was actually experiencing the crashes and random self-resets with the closed captioning just last week.

Thanks Terp. No firewire fix is a big disappointment.

To get the screen off, you need to remove the speaker grille, and remove the access panel that is right under the buttons. I shut off the TV and unplugged it at this point. Unplug the connector behind the panel that runs to the button panel. There are 2 screws that run through the silver panel that need to be removed (these are behind that access panel that you previously removed



Can someone help me out here. I am in the process of trying to clean my mirror for the first time and I have taken off the access panel as described. Now I have the connector in my hands and I cannot figure out how to unplug it. I am sure it is a simple thing but I am a little nervous with my beloved Bears in the Super Bowl next weekend and about 20 people coming over to watch the game. Do you need to squeeze the connector or pull that tab on it? Thanks.

Thanks Terp. No firewire fix is a big disappointment.


it may be there... who knows...

One more thing... they said that it will allow cablecard users to tune to channels over 999... I am thinking they made wholescale changes to the way they are doing their QAM tuner. I guess I will find out next week... update should be here by Tuesday or so.

Can someone help me out here. I am in the process of trying to clean my mirror for the first time and I have taken off the access panel as described. Now I have the connector in my hands and I cannot figure out how to unplug it. I am sure it is a simple thing but I am a little nervous with my beloved Bears in the Super Bowl next weekend and about 20 people coming over to watch the game. Do you need to squeeze the connector or pull that tab on it? Thanks.


I believe all you have to do is squeeze the small tab and pull them apart. The tab snaps the two in place.

You are correct. Simply squeezed the tab and pulled apart. I cleaned the mirror with a camera brush, put everything back together and crossed my fingers. Turned the TV on an was amazed by the difference. Can't believe I waited as long as I did. My picture was definitely degraded from when I bought the set but now it looks like new(until I get a new lamp anyway). Thanks for the help.

it may be there... who knows...

One more thing... they said that it will allow cablecard users to tune to channels over 999... I am thinking they made wholescale changes to the way they are doing their QAM tuner. I guess I will find out next week... update should be here by Tuesday or so.
Okay. I thought you had already upgraded to 4.06. Fingers crossed. If the fix is there, I'm gonna give Cablecard another try.

Just noticed I've got 4,900 hours on my original bulb. I probably should order a replacement next week as the picture is probably a bit dim compared to when it was new. Also, no re-occurance of the "shimmering" since I ""rocked & rolled" the bulb last year.

If we keep calling Mitsuboishi and telling them what problems we are having they keep a log. After so many complaints they look into making update to fix the problems. I was told this by a Mitsubishi Rep. So we must Call and tell them of the problems that we are having.
I have called many times on with OTA tuner not adding channels. Now it looks like they have a fix for it.
Daniel

...
I have called many times on with OTA tuner not adding channels. Now it looks like they have a fix for it.
Daniel

I have called many times about the tuner adding channels that I deleted. I have even written to the President of Mitsubishi America and none of it made any difference. They even went on to say that it was supposed to work that way. I have been buying Mits TVs since 1980 and after all of these problems, my next TV was a Sony.

But we need more people to call on the problems they are having so we can get it logged at Mitsubishi. Then they will get firmware updates out faster.

Daniel is absolutely correct. As a dealer and servicer of Mitsubishi and other brands over the last several decades, I have found Mitsubishi to be one of the best companies in terms of trying to keep customers happy. They do make mistakes and some of their policies are misguided, if not competely assinine. They do however, pay attention to consumer complaints, particularly those that are made in a rational manner that contain adequate information and documentation. It is much more effective than when dealers and servicers complain. Call them and let them know that you are buying another brand and why.

Okay. I thought you had already upgraded to 4.06. Fingers crossed. If the fix is there, I'm gonna give Cablecard another try.

Just noticed I've got 4,900 hours on my original bulb. I probably should order a replacement next week as the picture is probably a bit dim compared to when it was new. Also, no re-occurance of the "shimmering" since I ""rocked & rolled" the bulb last year.


wow... lots of hours... :D


I've complained to Mitsubishi countless number of times regarding how they send data from the QAM tuner over the firewire link and I have received no response. I have explained the issues over and over again and still nothing. Lets see if they did anything with this update, but I am not really expecting much.

wow... lots of hours... :D


I've complained to Mitsubishi countless number of times regarding how they send data from the QAM tuner over the firewire link and I have received no response. I have explained the issues over and over again and still nothing. Lets see if they did anything with this update, but I am not really expecting much.

I have been eyeballing one of the new Mits 46" LCD flat panels for my living room. It has CC and firewire out - if I get one I will see if I can record off the cable input. I probably wouldn't bother putting a cablecard in it, but I recall that this was an issue with and without using the cablecard. Is this right, UMD_Terp?

I have been eyeballing one of the new Mits 46" LCD flat panels for my living room. It has CC and firewire out - if I get one I will see if I can record off the cable input. I probably wouldn't bother putting a cablecard in it, but I recall that this was an issue with and without using the cablecard. Is this right, UMD_Terp?


yup... root core of the issue is that the entire channel stream is sent over firewire rather than only the tuned subchannel... The entire channel stream in a QAM256 cable system is up in the neighborhood of 40-50Mbps while a single subchannel is up to 18Mbps or so...

I have been eyeballing one of the new Mits 46" LCD flat panels for my living room. It has CC and firewire out - if I get one I will see if I can record off the cable input. I probably wouldn't bother putting a cablecard in it, but I recall that this was an issue with and without using the cablecard. Is this right, UMD_Terp?
AVS member CKNA stated in another forum that the QAM recording problem has been fixed in the newer Mitsubishis.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9535718&&#post9535718

Well the card arrived yesterday and I performed the upgrade. I don't know if it fixed anything but I made a copy of the contents on my desktop but I can't figure out how to copy that here so you guys can see what was on it. Can anyone help?

Here's the contents of the 4.06 upgrade card.
There are 3 folders:
\demo
\Pattern
\SYS5
Files:
acl_portRel192.cmp
Mpeg2_mce.cmp
params.ini
params2.ini
snid.txt
startup1.sh
startup2.sh
V26SupApp.cmp
vxWorks

The \demo directory contains 10 jpg files that look like they're meant for demo screens in a store setting.
The \Pattern directory contains 16 different test pattern jpg files.
The \SYS5 directory contains a bunch of .dat files and a few .txt files. It looks like they are NetCommand settings for various AVR/DVD/VCR/CableBox and DBS units.

I will gladly post the .txt files if anyone wants to see their contents and I could zip and post the whole thing if there is somewhere here to upload it.

Tony

It's fairly useless to try and sort through the cards contents... you can snag the test images and stuff, but beyond that it is all vxWorks complied images I believe...

I put the new software in today and I got more channels with over the air ant.

still waiting on my update... they used to come second day air.... how are they shipping them now? Maybe I need to call them again...

still waiting on my update... they used to come second day air.... how are they shipping them now? Maybe I need to call them again...

I called in mid-December, and they said I'd get it in the second week of January. I called again last week, and haven't seen it yet...hopefully soon...

Randy

thats a long time to wait... they used to be really fast with it up until last year. You would call and the update would be at your door the second or third business day.

Got mine in three days

Mine arrived without a long wait too. I ordered it on Thursday and it arrived on Monday.
I should add that although the rep on the phone said that the upgrade was to 4.06 when I checked the setup screen last night it says it is 4.05. So in fact there may be nothing new here at all.

I got mine yesterday but have not had a chance to install it so I don't know if its .06 or .05. It was shipped via UPS and I got it in only three days or so.

1) fixes crashing with certain closed captioning on digital programs
2) fixes audio dropouts on some cablecard channels
3) fixes issues with cablecard channels being tuned properly
4) fixes issues with digital music channels not working
5) fixes issues with OTA tuner not adding channels

basically a bunch of fixes on the digital tuners. For those with cablecards it is probably definitely worth it. I was actually experiencing the crashes and random self-resets with the closed captioning just last week.

U_MD-Terp & others

Can you help a fellow Cole Field House lover here. I have the Mitsu 52' WD825 that I purchased in Sept. 2005. I do not use the cable card since I have DirecTV. I have never updated the firmware, so I assume I have .01 or .02. Three quick questions:
1) do I need to upgrade the firmware
2) what type of improvements can I expect if I do
3) how do I upgrade, i.e. who to call, where to go, etc.

Any assistance you could give me would be greatly appreciated.

My lack of good luck leads me to a general approach of "if it aint broke. don't fix it". If I recall properly, the upgrades are for OTA and cable card problems.

- UMD class of '74

One of the reasons that I upgraded my firmware was to solve an issue where the TV would become unresponsive to commands from the remote control. You would push several buttons, and nothing happens, and then suddenly the TV would "catch up" and execute most/all of the commands you sent it.

The firmware upgrade did fix this (but I can't remember which one). I think I upgraded 2 or 3 times.

There should be a phone number in the manual somewhere with the contact info.

It has been posted in the thread before - you could try searching for "phone" and see if it comes up.

You can call this number, 800. 332.2119, and there is a menu pick for ordering firmware. You are routed to an agent. When I was calling the queue times were pretty long...

Randy

Just wanted to comment on my TV (52725) a few days after doing the cleaning of the mirror I performed over the weekend. I can say without a doubt my picture has never looked better including right after I bought it almost 2 years ago. Leads me to believe there was dust on the lens coming from the factory. The bulb has more than 2500 hours on it but after the cleaning the picture seems brighter and clearer than when I first got the TV. I have had that WOW feeling viewing HDTV that I first experienced when I bought the set. I have seen a number of new 1080p sets my friends have bought and viewed many sets in the stores but I can honestly say that I no longer have any thoughts of upgrading my set. This TV when calibrated properly and well cleaned delivers a beautiful picture. Bring on the Super Bowl and go Bears. And do yourself a favor and clean your mirror or have someone do it for you.

Is there a Step By Step Instructions on Cleaning the mirrors? can you give me the link?

There is a step by step instruction included in this thread. I will try and link it but if that doesn't work go to page 95 of the thread and you will find it. Of course as the author of the instructions says if you are not comfortable opening up your tv you can have a professional do it. The whole process probably took me about half an hour but having done it once I am sure I could almost cut that time in half. Good luck.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5657842&highlight=screws#post5657842

Thanks

Mine arrived without a long wait too. I ordered it on Thursday and it arrived on Monday.
I should add that although the rep on the phone said that the upgrade was to 4.06 when I checked the setup screen last night it says it is 4.05. So in fact there may be nothing new here at all.

Same here, so I called Mitsubishi and they said that the software will still read 4.05 even though it is 4.06, who knows why?

You guys are tops I was able to remove the screen like you said and clean the lens and mirror with a micro fibre clothe I bought from a leading electronics store. thank god I did not have to call a tech for such an easy fix.

Hi,
I have WD52725 with comcast hd cable box connected with (new) HDMI cable. When the tv turn off and (new) cable box and turn the tv on, there is no picture and the screen was blank with snowy look. But if i turn the cable box off and on then it fine. Does any you guy out there have this problem or can anybody please help me with this, thank in advance

equate:
Try making sure your cable box is off when you turn on the TV. Then turn on the cable box. If your cable box is one that never fully turns off, then you might have to do what you said each time. I think that when using the HDMI connection, the TV must be turned on first so that it can talk to the device on the other end of the HDMI cable.

equate:
Try making sure your cable box is off when you turn on the TV. Then turn on the cable box. If your cable box is one that never fully turns off, then you might have to do what you said each time. I think that when using the HDMI connection, the TV must be turned on first so that it can talk to the device on the other end of the HDMI cable.
TomTx,

It wasn't happened it before. When i changed to component cable than it fine. I wonder is my HDMI from the TV going bad. Does anybody have same problem?

Comcast turns off the processor for the HDMI, Fire wire, and DVI on there boxes. You have to pay a activation fee to use them. That is how it is in NJ with Comcast. By the way Comcast SUCKS!!!!

Comcast turns off the processor for the HDMI, Fire wire, and DVI on there boxes. You have to pay a activation fee to use them. That is how it is in NJ with Comcast. By the way Comcast SUCKS!!!!
I did paid for it. I know Comcast suck.

Here in Maryland my HDMI, optical digital audio, and DVI (before HDMI) work without any additional $ or special activation. I just hooked up and they work. I've not tried the firewire or USB ports since I don't have anything to connect to these interfaces.

I order a replacement lamp from the Mitsubishi web site, the original # is 915HP020010. The list on the site shows # 915P026010-A as the current replacement, that's what they shipped to me. I've tried unsuccessfully to install the lamp, it wont plug in all the way. It looks very close to the original but not exactly. Is this the correct replacement lamp for this model?
The plug on the TV does wiggle side ways some but the original lamp fit back in fine.

The irony...

I just received my FW update today and as I get home my wife calls to tell me that the TV shut itself off and that the LAMP indicator is lit solid red. I guess the bulb went out. I took out the bulb and examined it. It seems like the seal around it blew out somehow as it looks like it is missing in a small arc around the perimiter. Oh well... I only got in the neighborhood of 2200 hrs out of it, but given that my set was 2.5 years old, it's fine. I think all the times it improperly shut down due to FW issues finally took its toll.

New bulb should be here Friday...

The irony...

I just received my FW update today and as I get home my wife calls to tell me that the TV shut itself off and that the LAMP indicator is lit solid red. I guess the bulb went out. I took out the bulb and examined it. It seems like the seal around it blew out somehow as it looks like it is missing in a small arc around the perimiter. Oh well... I only got in the neighborhood of 2200 hrs out of it, but given that my set was 2.5 years old, it's fine. I think all the times it improperly shut down due to FW issues finally took its toll.

New bulb should be here Friday...

Did you order the bulb direct from Mits?

The irony...

I just received my FW update today and as I get home my wife calls to tell me that the TV shut itself off and that the LAMP indicator is lit solid red. I guess the bulb went out. I took out the bulb and examined it. It seems like the seal around it blew out somehow as it looks like it is missing in a small arc around the perimiter. Oh well... I only got in the neighborhood of 2200 hrs out of it, but given that my set was 2.5 years old, it's fine. I think all the times it improperly shut down due to FW issues finally took its toll.

New bulb should be here Friday...

Sorry to hear that it blew on you...makes me think I might better order one just to have on hand. And your mention of FW makes me realize that I *still* haven't rec'd mine. Guess I'll call again tomorrow...

Randy

Did you order the bulb direct from Mits?


yup... tried ordering on the website, but for some reason, it didn't go through so I ended up calling...

Sorry to hear that it blew on you...makes me think I might better order one just to have on hand. And your mention of FW makes me realize that I *still* haven't rec'd mine. Guess I'll call again tomorrow...

Randy


Keep calling... it took 4 calls to them to get my FW. They actually shipped it out UPS red so I guess my calling them did actually work :)

It's funny how it just went out... I had just cleaned out the filter and all the mirrors a few weeks ago... I think mine went out mainly because of the number of on-off cycles. I think the bulbs last a lot longer when they are turned on and left on for hours upon hours on end. Unfortunately my experimentation with cablecard, firewire, and other stuff probably didn't help in that sense :D

Keep calling... it took 4 calls to them to get my FW. They actually shipped it out UPS red so I guess my calling them did actually work :)

It's funny how it just went out... I had just cleaned out the filter and all the mirrors a few weeks ago... I think mine went out mainly because of the number of on-off cycles. I think the bulbs last a lot longer when they are turned on and left on for hours upon hours on end. Unfortunately my experimentation with cablecard, firewire, and other stuff probably didn't help in that sense :D

4 times? Ugh. I'll call tomorrow. Maybe I can get them to cut me a deal on a replacement bulb to make up for it. Yeah, right! ;)

Randy

ha... i wish... :)

well, the bulb wasn't it :(

Got the new bulb and swapped it out, but still the lamp did not light up. At this point I think the ballast has failed. I got into the back of the TV and removed the ballast board. It was under a shield on the right side of the TV (from the back) . Just looking at the board, I see nothing wrong. I turned on the TV and probed the power connector that goes to the ballast and it reads in the neighborhood of 315V. The connector that goes from the ballast to the lamp itself reads wacky voltages... or maybe my multimeter is not able to range them... anyhow... at this point I am at a loss... There seems to be a component on the ballast labeled 'FS1'... i take it this is a fuse... probing that gives me a resistance of 6Mohm... if it is a fuse, I should read nothing...

Any suggestions? Anyone have a ballast fail on these sets?

well, the bulb wasn't it :(

Got the new bulb and swapped it out, but still the lamp did not light up. At this point I think the ballast has failed. I got into the back of the TV and removed the ballast board. It was under a shield on the right side of the TV (from the back) . Just looking at the board, I see nothing wrong. I turned on the TV and probed the power connector that goes to the ballast and it reads in the neighborhood of 315V. The connector that goes from the ballast to the lamp itself reads wacky voltages... or maybe my multimeter is not able to range them... anyhow... at this point I am at a loss... There seems to be a component on the ballast labeled 'FS1'... i take it this is a fuse... probing that gives me a resistance of 6Mohm... if it is a fuse, I should read nothing...

Any suggestions? Anyone have a ballast fail on these sets?

Dumb question...

Did you make sure that the connector in the back of the bulb isn't loose and therefore isn't making a connection with the bulb. This is a very common problem on these TV's!

I am fairly certain that the connector is fine. The connector that goes to the bulb is physically attached to the ballast. I can hear it slide into the bulbs terminals.

Well, after doing some probing of connectors and such, I am pretty sure it is a bad ballast. The main power leads to the ballast read around 316 volts or so. The LAMPEN pin reads close to 5V as well as the 5V supply pin to the ballast. Above all, the LED diagnostic codes read code 34 which indicates a lamp anomaly.

I guess I will have to track down the ballast as a separate piece... I wish I had some schematics for the ballast board so I could debug it, but eh... I bet an output amplifier died on it as two of them are getting extremely hot...

I did a search and found nothing specific...what I am looking for is instuctions on how to replace the lamp fan. I am getting error code 37...so I pulled the front off to see if I could get to the bottom of the fan. No luck there. I think that I need to access it from the rear. I have cleaned the mirrors several times now and getting pretty comfortable with the innards of this 52725. But the rear is new territory...are there any "gotchas" or tips before I pull this thing out of my built-in?

Any help is greatly appreciated!!!

I did a search and found nothing specific...what I am looking for is instuctions on how to replace the lamp fan. I am getting error code 37...so I pulled the front off to see if I could get to the bottom of the fan. No luck there. I think that I need to access it from the rear. I have cleaned the mirrors several times now and getting pretty comfortable with the innards of this 52725. But the rear is new territory...are there any "gotchas" or tips before I pull this thing out of my built-in?

Any help is greatly appreciated!!!


You will need to remove the entire light engine to replace the fan. The fan sits at the bottom of the lamp cage and the whole piece is only accessible with the light engine removed. Are you sure that the fan is bad? If you have a voltmeter handy, measure the voltage hitting the fan... it will be either a 5V fan or that one may actually be a 12V DC fan.

Lamp fan as well as the LE exhaust fan is 12V DC... both are connectorized and come from the 'PJ' connector from the power board in the chassis. If those do not read 12V, then I would suspect a bad component on the power board.

Lamp fan as well as the LE exhaust fan is 12V DC... both are connectorized and come from the 'PJ' connector from the power board in the chassis. If those do not read 12V, then I would suspect a bad component on the power board.


Thanks for the reply, I will check the voltage at the fan. I still suspect it's the fan due to the amount of dust on the fan and the simple fact that it is a moving part...the power board should not fail...but if that is the problem then it seems to me that Mits has produced a very un-reliable product.

Thanks!

it seems to me that Mits has produced a very un-reliable product.



considering my TV is currently dead as well, I would tend to agree... two LE replacements, countless service calls, and now most likely a dead lamp ballast for me...

Their consumer relations already got an earful from me in the form of a stern letter... lets see what happens.

Well, I got my firmware today...once they finally shipped it, they sent it UPS Next Day Air. Seems like it would be easier to just send it out the first time you call and send it via a cheaper method. Oh well. I suppose I'll install it this weekend. I was surprised to see that they want the flash card back...but since they sent prepaid shipping, etc., I'll oblige. And I won't even make them ask four times for it! ;)

Randy

Thanks for the reply, I will check the voltage at the fan. I still suspect it's the fan due to the amount of dust on the fan and the simple fact that it is a moving part...the power board should not fail...but if that is the problem then it seems to me that Mits has produced a very un-reliable product.

Thanks!


OK...so the people in the Mits parts dept are morons!!! On Wed I ordered a lamp fan and paid for overnight delivery. On Thurs I got a DMD fan...So on Thurs I ordered a Lamp fan, overnight, and on Friday received a ballast fan. Are you f*#@ing kidding! So on Friday I ordered a lamp fan...and on Sat I received a lamp fan. I ended up paying about $100 in shipping, but my tv was out so I was willing to pay. Before you all ask, yes I did get RA #'s to return the other fans but I decided that since I had the cabinet open anyhow I might as well replace all three fans-with amount of dust that gets into these things they WILL all fail eventually. So Sat I replaced all three fans, cleaned my mirrors and presto-tv works better than new!

All three fans are fairly easy to get to and the whole project took about an hour. I am very glad to have done it myself-now I have a much better working knowledge about how these things work.

BTW-there are two other fans that I found in addition to the three that I replaced. One is a cabinet fan that brings air into the rear of the unit-probably the easiest to replace if I ever need to. And one more on top what looks to be some sort of processor bundle.

Anyhow, just a word to the wise, if you order parts from Mits make sure you have a part number. These idiots truly do not know their ass from a hot rock and could not have been less helpful if they tried!

My lesson learned!

Chad

cmarshack, I am glade it work out for you. I bet if you had a TV shop out they would have charge you a arm and a leg. Is the fan noise less than the OEM fans?

Fans do not fail because of dust. If you want to get the right part numbers before you order, there are several ways to get the manuals, and several folks on various forums who wopuld look it up for your, like me. Mitubishi parts clerks jsut process orders and do not generally do much part number research. There is lots of help here, on HDTVoice, on sci.electronics.repair, and on hometheatershack, as well as others.

Some servicers, like myself do not charge an arm and a leg, just a reasonable fee for our time. Some of us give lots of information online for free.

Fans do not fail because of dust. If you want to get the right part numbers before you order, there are several ways to get the manuals, and several folks on various forums who wopuld look it up for your, like me. Mitubishi parts clerks jsut process orders and do not generally do much part number research. There is lots of help here, on HDTVoice, on sci.electronics.repair, and on hometheatershack, as well as others.

Some servicers, like myself do not charge an arm and a leg, just a reasonable fee for our time. Some of us give lots of information online for free.



Thank you for your input and it is much appreciated. As you can see at the bottom of my last post I did say "lesson learned". Next time I will look up the part number first. But I was shocked that when I asked for a lamp fan-and in the description from the manufacturer it says "Fan-Lamp"-they would send a DMD fan. Then, after knowing they made a mistake, would do it again and send a ballast fan. Yes, I should know the part # but that was just ridiculous.

As far as an arm and a leg...I did get a very reasonable quote for a cert. tech to come out and fix this for me. But I like to do things myself. And, even with the $100 In shipping I was able to replace all three fans for less than having it done by a pro. I am not saying that this should not be done by professionals...but like I said I like to DIY.

As far as fans not failing due to dust accumulation...well you may be right. But fans DO fail eventually, and that is why I decided to replace all three while I had it open.

Thanks again for the ref sites to find more info on future part #'s.

I'm curious...do the newer Mits' models have the same issues that have cropped up with these models? If you were buying a new DLP TV, would you buy Mits? I have been quite lucky, honestly, and have had very little problem with mine; but I've seen the fun that a considerable number of people have had. When checking the new ads each week, I still find myself looking at the Mits specials, but I wonder what other people are thinking. If you didn't go Mits again, what direction would you go? Again, just curious...

Randy

I'm curious...do the newer Mits' models have the same issues that have cropped up with these models? If you were buying a new DLP TV, would you buy Mits? I have been quite lucky, honestly, and have had very little problem with mine; but I've seen the fun that a considerable number of people have had. When checking the new ads each week, I still find myself looking at the Mits specials, but I wonder what other people are thinking. If you didn't go Mits again, what direction would you go? Again, just curious...

Randy


Personally to me it comes down to how they deal with the issues in the end... All sets like these have varying issues to some extent. How those issues are dealt with in the end is what matters to me.

With that said, depending how Mitsubishi responds to my issues will for sure determine whether I consider buying their brand again. My dad has a Mitsubishi CRT that has been flawless for the past 4 years. I can understand issues with newer technologies, but as long as Mitsubishi realizes those problems and takes care of their consumers in the end, that is what really matters.

When I first got my DLP 62525, I contacted Mits and even sent a letter to the President about the tuner adding stations on it's own even after I had deleted them. They told me that this was supposed to work that way and I told them that it never worked that way in the past. They finally issued (supposedly) a fix for it with the latest firmware. I installed the firmware and it is still adding substations to the digital stations although I haven't seen it adding other stations. After all of this correspondence and nothing fixed in my opinion, I purchased a Sony TV next and don't think I will be using Mits anymore even though I have been a loyal customers since 1980 buying mutlple Mits TVs since then.

cmarshack,

Did you notice anything different about the new fans, specifically if they happen to be quieter than when your set was new. Fan noise is my only complaint with this tv, and I'll be replacing the fans eventually myself too.

Received and installed latest firmware today. Can't really see any changes or improvements. Maybe a few more OTA channels can be picked up. QAM tuner still adds many channels that have no signal on them and clear QAM channel mapping is still screwy (could be a source issue). Mainly I was interested to see if Mitsubishi had fixed the inability to record HD from a cable source via the TVs firewire port. Unfortunately I found that my Mits HD2000 DVHS no longer recognizes the firewire connection to the TV anymore (it still sees the cable box, no problem). After disconnecting everything, I plugged the DVHS directly into the TV which in turn displayed the usual "DVHS is now reconnected" message. I then played some HD material from the DVHS and it came out fine on the TV. However I still cannot get the DVHS to recognize the IEEE connection (it use to show up as d1).

This use to work. I recorded OTA HD via the TVs firewire connection way back when, but it's been so long since I've toyed around with it. I'm pretty sure the firmware isn't the cause, but I can't be 100 percent. Hopefully someone can suggest something that might be of help.

I posted about this earlier and have also heard from another member with the same issue: the TV will post a yellow error message stating TV will shut itself down in a few seconds. Please check if the air flow is blocked and after a short period of time it will proceed to shut itself down. The first couple times it did this I cleaned the filter and it did not do it again for a while; both times, the house heater was on and I felt warm air on my while standing by the set. However, this time the filter is clean and the heater is off, the air around the set is cool and I can find no obstructions to the air flow. The TV wants to shut itself down with the error message listed above.

Any ideas anyone? The filter is clean, I can hear the fans (all of them, as far as I can tell), and I see no obstructions to the air flow. The set is resting on a piece of cloth (to protect the table it sits on) but it always has, and this problem did not occur at the same spot during the hottest of summer days. Failed fan (one I am not noticing)? Software? Anybody?

Any advice appreciated.

EDIT: A reset using the recessed front panel button may have helped; the set ran all night with no issue. However, the "overheat" problem has been sporadic so I don't really know if I've accomplished anything... Still looking forward to any input. Thanks!

Howdy guys,

After using my 52725 for around 2.5 years now, I'm getting a message when I turn on my TV that my lamp will soon need replacement. I assume it looks at total hours on the lamp and then just pops up the message. I'm sure it's in this absurdly long thread somewhere, but how do you get into the service menu to see this? How many hours should I expect out of a lamp? How much does a new one run? Thanks.

MELONHEAD

Menu 2470 and check the number to the left (total hours) and the number just next to it (lamp hours) on the bottom. Menu gets you back to normal again. Don't mess with other stuff while in the service menu. Lamp roughly $200. I got 6,500 or so hours out of one but others have had them fail at 3000. YMMV.

Now, BUMP for my question:

Anybody have any info on error message, CHECK AIR FLOW? (See two posts above for full story). Any info appreciated. Thanks!

cmarshack,

Did you notice anything different about the new fans, specifically if they happen to be quieter than when your set was new. Fan noise is my only complaint with this tv, and I'll be replacing the fans eventually myself too.


The new fans are the exact same fans as the old one's with the exception of the DMD fan...it's actaully larger. But I did not notice any difference in the volume. Keep in mind that I have mine built in to a cabinet and have several fans pulling/pushing air to cool all of my AV components. These fans I can hear, the TV fans inside the built-in are hardly noticable.

Just a new owner chiming in. Hopefully she works well!

I'd like to re-raise the issue of the "tearing" or "splitting", as I call it, of the screen along the vertical left third. This is where the left side of the screen freezes for a fraction of a second while the right side stays in sync. Then everything seems to catch up. I've had this problem since day one, and it happens with all types of sources through all inputs...and always in the same exact spot.

I've read that several people have had this problem, but no one said if anything had been done to fix it. Now that newer models are being released, I feel I should get it fixed if I ever wanted to sell my WD-52725. I've been back and forth with my extended warranty company and local servicer since July, and no one knows what the problem could be. The FMT scaler board was replaced to no avail. And my firmware is 4.05. Granted, the issue isn't too distracting, but, to me, the set is broken in some respect. Has anyone had this fixed? Is there a term I can use with my servicer so he knows what the problem is (and, no, it's not "macro-blocking"). Thanks for all the great info in this thread.

I'd like to re-raise the issue of the "tearing" or "splitting", as I call it, of the screen along the vertical left third. This is where the left side of the screen freezes for a fraction of a second while the right side stays in sync. Then everything seems to catch up. I've had this problem since day one, and it happens with all types of sources through all inputs...and always in the same exact spot.

I've read that several people have had this problem, but no one said if anything had been done to fix it. Now that newer models are being released, I feel I should get it fixed if I ever wanted to sell my WD-52725. I've been back and forth with my extended warrantee company and local servicer since July, and no one knows what the problem could be. The FMT scaler board was replaced to no avail. And my firmware is 4.05. Granted, the issue isn't too distracting, but, to me, the set is broken in some respect. Has anyone had this fixed? Is there a term I can use with my servicer so he knows what the problem is (and, no, it's not "macro-blocking"). Thanks for all the great info in this thread.

Run a search on some of GoBig's post I believe he has posted several things on it.

Okay, then. If you go by GoBig's definition, "tearing" is not the problem I/we have been having. It's simply a vertical slice down the screen, just left of center. I appears for a fraction of a second and then it's gone. The left side falls out of sync while the right side is normal. Then everything is fine. It's gotten to the point where I can almost make it happen by watching something with a lot of edits in it. That leads me to believe it's a processing problem. Anyone else?

Yes, I have the same tearing issue. :(

I don't recall seeing anything like that on my 62525.

I get it, but pretty rarely, on my 62725...

Randy

Does this happen when you watch Broadcast TV and DVDs or is it just one of them?

Does this happen when you watch Broadcast TV and DVDs or is it just one of them?

Everything except VGA.

Broadcast TV, XBox 360, PS2, HDMI, component, composite, S-video, you name it.

Actually now that I think about it, the only one that doesn't get it is the VGA input. But the VGA input skips a ton of the TV's processing steps.

Okay, then. If you go by GoBig's definition, "tearing" is not the problem I/we have been having. It's simply a vertical slice down the screen, just left of center. I appears for a fraction of a second and then it's gone. The left side falls out of sync while the right side is normal. Then everything is fine. It's gotten to the point where I can almost make it happen by watching something with a lot of edits in it. That leads me to believe it's a processing problem. Anyone else?
I have this show up from time to time, It doesn't appear to be on any particular input, sometimes it goes away very quickly but other times it lasts for several seconds. I would also like to know what causes it. I posted about this earlier in this thread and got slammed pretty quickly about it being posted before and nothing was known about it.

This has been mentioned many times before in this (or other) Mits thread. I don't think there is a solution for it. I just ignore it, since it happens fairly infrequently.

I have this show up from time to time, It doesn't appear to be on any particular input, sometimes it goes away very quickly but other times it lasts for several seconds. I would also like to know what causes it. I posted about this earlier in this thread and got slammed pretty quickly about it being posted before and nothing was known about it.

Slammed? That really didn't sound too harsh, honestly...trust me, some people around here (not necessarily this forum/thread) can be a *lot* moreso....

Randy

Slammed? That really didn't sound too harsh, honestly...trust me, some people around here (not necessarily this forum/thread) can be a *lot) moreso....

Randy
Well, maybe slammed was a little strong, but it shut me up pretty quickly.

Well, maybe slammed was a little strong, but it shut me up pretty quickly.

You must have been new around here at the time... ;)

Randy

Slammed? That really didn't sound too harsh, honestly...trust me, some people around here (not necessarily this forum/thread) can be a *lot) moreso....

Randy

I didn't mean to "slam" you with my reply. I was just stating the fact that it has been widely reported and complained about, and that no one has found a solution to it yet. :)

I get it, but pretty rarely, on my 62725...

Randy

Same here on my 62725

Does anyone think it's enough of a problem to get Mitsubishi to do something about it? Has anyone reported the problem to them?

My service tech is looking for answers, but I surely don't want to waste his time if Mitsubishi has had no reponse or has no intention of fixing the problem.

Would it make sense for me to push my warranty company to replace the set? Everyone seems to be content with living with this glitch. While it doesn't bother me too much, isn't the set--in effect--worthless to anyone but me now?

It isn't worth it to me, as it happens rarely. And the resale value on the set is a relatively small fraction of what I paid for it, anyway...maybe 1/4, what with the 1080p sets already being priced around 1/2 of what I paid. My set is long out of Mits' warranty, and if it wasn't a big enough of a deal for me to report it to them back then, I won't be pushing the extended warranty company on it. But as I mentioned, it happens very rarely on my set, and I can easily live with it. That isn't right or wrong, it is just my situation...this is definitely a case of YMMV...

Randy

I have bought Mits TVs since 1980 and that's why I changed to buying non-Mits Tvs. Mitsubishi will not own up to the problems their sets have so I'll stop buying them. You wouldn't believe the problems I've had with getting them to admit it has bugs (all the way up to writing to the president of Mitsubishi America).

I would have a hard time getting them to replace my TV, I'm afraid, since I think it would be very difficult to duplicate the problem for a technician (unless you can snap a photo of it while it is happening). As far as I can remember, I don't know if anyone in this thread has ever gotten a photographic documentation of the glitch.

If they did replace it with the same model (which would probably be difficult, since they have been discontinued), I suspect you would still have the same problem on occasion. Then again, maybe they would replace with a new model - this might make it worthwhile!

... Then again, maybe they would replace with a new model - this might make it worthwhile!

Don't hold your breadth...

I would have a hard time getting them to replace my TV, I'm afraid, since I think it would be very difficult to duplicate the problem for a technician (unless you can snap a photo of it while it is happening). As far as I can remember, I don't know if anyone in this thread has ever gotten a photographic documentation of the glitch.

If they did replace it with the same model (which would probably be difficult, since they have been discontinued), I suspect you would still have the same problem on occasion. Then again, maybe they would replace with a new model - this might make it worthwhile!
I am curious, is there anyone with this model TV that HAS NOT experienced this problem. There is power in numbers, after all. So if it is an "across the board" situation, MITS would be hard pressed to continue to ignore it and hope we would all just learn to live with it.

I am curious, is there anyone with this model TV that HAS NOT experienced this problem. There is power in numbers, after all. So if it is an "across the board" situation, MITS would be hard pressed to continue to ignore it and hope we would all just learn to live with it.

See post #4125 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10013800&&#post10013800)

See post #4125 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10013800&&#post10013800)
Even if it doesn't occcur on ALL sets in this model, if enough are affected we could have some recourse in having them repaired.

I am curious, is there anyone with this model TV that HAS NOT experienced this problem. There is power in numbers, after all. So if it is an "across the board" situation, MITS would be hard pressed to continue to ignore it and hope we would all just learn to live with it.
4000+ hours and I have never seen that particular problem.

I used to see the tearing problem very occasionally on component & RGBHV inputs, but not once on VGA...so far.

-John

I have seen occasional tearing only when I was using Media Center 2k5 via VGA, but it cleared up after I changed NVIDIA drivers.

I have seen occasional tearing only when I was using Media Center 2k5 via VGA, but it cleared up after I changed NVIDIA drivers.

That is horizontal tearing.

What we are talking about is vertical tearing.

I put absolutely zero faith in Mitsubishi ever living up to customer expectations regarding flaws in their products. :rolleyes:

After this TV, I will not even consider purchasing a Mitsubishi branded television set again.

That is horizontal tearing.

What we are talking about is vertical tearing.


It was vertical tearing.

I put absolutely zero faith in Mitsubishi ever living up to customer expectations regarding flaws in their products. :rolleyes:

After this TV, I will not even consider purchasing a Mitsubishi branded television set again.

You and me both.

So, if we were to "organize", what would be the next step. A petition? Do we storm the gates of Mitsubishi's home office?

Finding this thread has been a mixed blessing. While it proves that I'm not crazy and seeing things, it also exposes a huge flaw on a rather expensive television set...a set that I waited my whole adult life to buy.

Take my word for it, no amount of letter writing or petitioning is going to ever get Mitsubishi to admit anything. I have been there and done that already... their response is always worthless.

You guys can try it and I will go ahead and back it up as well, but just don't expect it to go anywhere.

What we need is a CLASS ACTION LAW Suite!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
At least we would get Money Back or the sets fix or replace I am up for Some thing to happen!!!!!

What we need is a CLASS ACTION LAW Suite!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
At least we would get Money Back or the sets fix or replace I am up for Some thing to happen!!!!!


the only people who will benefit from anything are the lawyers involved in the suit...

the only people who will benefit from anything are the lawyers involved in the suit...
Not all the time I did get all my Money back on my Pioneer Elite Pro CRT HD TV. That is how I got money for My 62725 TV. I also got Pioneer to fix my DV-45A and my DV-59AVI DVD players all done under class action law suites. :D :eek: The Lawyers can make what they want as long as I get what I need back :D
. Now How dose that sound :eek: :D

Well, what exactly is the complaint regarding? Vertical tearing? I could give you several other issues that they have failed to address after several complaints...

It would take me little time to write a letter, but really, what good would it do?

Terp, is your TV still down?

Terp, is your TV still down?


nope, fixed it myself... it was a bad ballast as I suspected. Luckily, a fairly cheap repair since I was able to find a very cheap source for the ballast.

nope, fixed it myself... it was a bad ballast as I suspected. Luckily, a fairly cheap repair since I was able to find a very cheap source for the ballast.
How and tell US :D

I posted about this earlier and have also heard from another member with the same issue: the TV will post a yellow error message stating TV will shut itself down in a few seconds. Please check if the air flow is blocked and after a short period of time it will proceed to shut itself down.

If no fan failure is found and no true obstructions exist to air flow, and if you're in the mood to DIY:

Mitsubishi Part 299P285010, "Sensor, Thermal Temp."
Writing on sensor: KLIXON 250V/7A, YS11A70B-012, K4AB.

I'm optimistic this is the solution to the set displaying a yellow error message across the screen, and then shutting down. Note that no LED errors are present; Status and Lamp LEDs are normal (off).

YMMV and don't DIY if there is ANY doubt in your mind about your ability to do this; have someone swing by instead.

Update on my 'Blinking Green Timer Light of Death' issue. I had a Magnolia/BB tech out on 1/3 who said I would at least need a new DM board. It has been 2 weeks and no-one from Mag/BB has called back and no-one from the mits website has written in response to my emails. I have called back several times and as of today I have a supervisor ('Lee') looking into my repair and why things are taking so long. Needless to say, not very happy with BB service or with Mits Consumer Relations right now. One way communications and no action!

My two-year-old WD-62725 just started exhibiting this behavior. My read of the forum tonight indicates two possible solutions: replace a bad DM board or upgrade to firmware .06. Does anyone know if either of these fixes the problem?

How and tell US :D


Getting to the lamp ballast will require dismantling of pretty much the entire left side of the TV. After all the rear panels and filter cover are removed, all the fan connectors, lamp temperature, and DMD temperature sensor connectors must be undone. The metal ductwork is then removed. There are two pieces, one central and one to the side. A vertical cross brace is then removed and the ballast cover is accessible. The metal shield must be removed and then underneath that resides the ballast fan and ballast board. After removing the fan, the ballast board can be removed.

Prior to removing the ballast I made sure that the voltages and signals going to the ballast all were at the right levels. The main power to the ballast is supplied by two wires which when probed should read a voltage difference of 340VDC... Also, the ballast receives 5VDC along with a LAMPEN signal and then returns a LAMPLIT (active low) signal. Basically, all voltages were present on my TV and the LAMPLIT pin just kind of floated instead of dropping to ground and the bulb never fired up. You can't probe the leads to the lamp itself as they carry a voltage in the neighborhood of several thousand volts. Also, the other voltages must be measured carefully while defeating the safety switch that ensures that the filter cover is in place.

The actual replacement is just that... swap in a new board for the old one and reverse all the steps. I actually checked the new ballast by again defeating the filter safety switch and connecting all connectors while the TV was all open. Luckily it worked and I put everything back together.

If anyone wants to know where I obtained the ballast from, just PM me... basically, this specific lamp is apparently used by other TVs as well and the part number of the ballast itself can be cross referenced.

If no fan failure is found and no true obstructions exist to air flow, and if you're in the mood to DIY:

Mitsubishi Part 299P285010, "Sensor, Thermal Temp."
Writing on sensor: KLIXON 250V/7A, YS11A70B-012, K4AB.

I'm optimistic this is the solution to the set displaying a yellow error message across the screen, and then shutting down. Note that no LED errors are present; Status and Lamp LEDs are normal (off).

YMMV and don't DIY if there is ANY doubt in your mind about your ability to do this; have someone swing by instead.


The sensor sits on the lamp cage itself. It slides into the part of the light engine and is connected by a single connectorized lead. After removing the rear panel, it should be visible right there in front of you sitting on the light engine itself. If I recall correctly, a single screw needs to be removed to slide the sensor out and replace it.

I just put in my second replacement lamp (last one got 6400 hours - not bad) and was looking to stock up on a bulb for next time. So far I've only bought the full replacement lamp - meaning the bulb and the housing. These are still $360-390 or so (for the 915P020010). There are other sites like this one

http://stores.televisionlampsource.com/-strse-1/915P020A10-915P026010-915P026A10-915P020010/Detail.bok

that I don't recall seeing the last time I bought a lamp that sell the "bulb only" for less than $200. has anyone tried this approach? How did it go?

I am curious, is there anyone with this model TV that HAS NOT experienced this problem. There is power in numbers, after all. So if it is an "across the board" situation, MITS would be hard pressed to continue to ignore it and hope we would all just learn to live with it.

I have 11,000+ hours on my 52725 and have never seen this.

I just put in my second replacement lamp (last one got 6400 hours - not bad) and was looking to stock up on a bulb for next time. So far I've only bought the full replacement lamp - meaning the bulb and the housing. These are still $360-390 or so (for the 915P020010). There are other sites like this one

http://stores.televisionlampsource.com/-strse-1/915P020A10-915P026010-915P026A10-915P020010/Detail.bok

that I don't recall seeing the last time I bought a lamp that sell the "bulb only" for less than $200. has anyone tried this approach? How did it go?

So the $229 listed on Mits' site for that part number is just the bulb then, correct?

Thanks,
Randy

I just put in my second replacement lamp (last one got 6400 hours - not bad) and was looking to stock up on a bulb for next time. So far I've only bought the full replacement lamp - meaning the bulb and the housing. These are still $360-390 or so (for the 915P020010). There are other sites like this one

http://stores.televisionlampsource.com/-strse-1/915P020A10-915P026010-915P026A10-915P020010/Detail.bok

that I don't recall seeing the last time I bought a lamp that sell the "bulb only" for less than $200. has anyone tried this approach? How did it go?

That's only a $10.00 difference from Mits. What about shipping costs?

The sensor sits on the lamp cage itself. It slides into the part of the light engine and is connected by a single connectorized lead. After removing the rear panel, it should be visible right there in front of you sitting on the light engine itself. If I recall correctly, a single screw needs to be removed to slide the sensor out and replace it.

That's correct. A relatively simple solution. It's also IMO a great idea to tidy up while the rear panel is off anyway -- I was amazed at just how dusty stuff can get.

So the $229 listed on Mits' site for that part number is just the bulb then, correct?

Thanks,
Randy


I purchased a replacement bulb direct from Mitsubishi and it was $250 including two day shipping... it was the whole bulb including the housing.

I purchased a replacement bulb direct from Mitsubishi and it was $250 including two day shipping... it was the whole bulb including the housing.

That's about what I paid too. I don't see how/where people are getting $300+ bulbs or why since Mitsu is the cheapest source apparently.

Thanks, guys...that's what I'd always heard...just checking!


Randy

I just put in my second replacement lamp (last one got 6400 hours - not bad) and was looking to stock up on a bulb for next time. So far I've only bought the full replacement lamp - meaning the bulb and the housing. These are still $360-390 or so (for the 915P020010). There are other sites like this one

http://stores.televisionlampsource.com/-strse-1/915P020A10-915P026010-915P026A10-915P020010/Detail.bok

that I don't recall seeing the last time I bought a lamp that sell the "bulb only" for less than $200. has anyone tried this approach? How did it go?

you can find the complete new 915P020010 lamp including the housing much cheaper than $300-390

as noted mitsubishi has it on their site for $229 + shipping (maybe tax too)
http://www.mitsuparts.com/parts/store/searchpage.cfm?ACTIONTYPE=Results&CATEGORY=Consumer%20Model&SEARCHFIELD=ModelCategory&CRITERIA=MISC1&RECORDSCOUNTER=60
or these two sources
electrified.com has it for $202 + about $12 for ground shipping
http://www.electrified.com/Catalog/Items/?ItemID=30555&Supplier=MITSUBISHI&ItemModel=915P020010
or onlinesupplystore.com $205 + shipping
http://www.onlinesupplystore.com/Product.asp?id=14770

I purchased a replacement bulb direct from Mitsubishi and it was $250 including two day shipping... it was the whole bulb including the housing.

That's good to know that this has the housing as well. For the price I wasn't sure since there are a number of sites at $350+ with the housing and $200 or so without.

It doesn't look that there's a reall good reason to consider a "bulb only" purchase - the cost difference isn't enough to want to deal with it.

Thanks.

That's about what I paid too. I don't see how/where people are getting $300+ bulbs or why since Mitsu is the cheapest source apparently.

I cant' explain it either. I may have gotten taken for $100+ on my first bulb. My recollection is that at the time (about 1.5 years ago) Mitsu didn't sell the bulbs directly and I could only find them on line through third party sites. I may be wrong about that though.

At least my first bulb went when still under warranty so the first 3500 hours of bulb were "free".

On a related note, where are people throwing their bulbs away? My first one blew under warranty so the local electronics shop that Mitsu sent to bring me a new bulb just took the old one.

The Owner's Guide mentions going to www.eiae.org for places to recycle these but that site had nothing useful for my county in Maryland (the next county over recycles these but not mine).

I hate to just throw it away or landfill it with the mercury. Has anyone else run into this where the local dump doesn't recycle electronics and you found some other way to recycle the bulb (I know there are some other Maryland folks on this forum - any ideas?) Every now and then the big electronics chain stores allow you to bring electronics by for recycle but I haven't seen that in a while. Maybe some of then allow this full time? Thanks.

On a related note, where are people throwing their bulbs away? My first one blew under warranty so the local electronics shop that Mitsu sent to bring me a new bulb just took the old one.

The Owner's Guide mentions going to www.eiae.org for places to recycle these but that site had nothing useful for my county in Maryland (the next county over recycles these but not mine).

I hate to just throw it away or landfill it with the mercury. Has anyone else run into this where the local dump doesn't recycle electronics and you found some other way to recycle the bulb (I know there are some other Maryland folks on this forum - any ideas?) Every now and then the big electronics chain stores allow you to bring electronics by for recycle but I haven't seen that in a while. Maybe some of then allow this full time? Thanks.

Sell it on fleabay! Just kidding.

I used to take old printer cartridges to Staples. Maybe they will take used bulbs also. I commend you for thinking green.

I simply kept my original bulb. It'd failed at many thousand hours and served me well. I have made mention in my living trust and I intend to be buried with it.

you can find the complete new 915P020010 lamp including the housing much cheaper than $300-390

as noted mitsubishi has it on their site for $229 + shipping (maybe tax too)
http://www.mitsuparts.com/parts/store/searchpage.cfm?ACTIONTYPE=Results&CATEGORY=Consumer%20Model&SEARCHFIELD=ModelCategory&CRITERIA=MISC1&RECORDSCOUNTER=60
or these two sources
electrified.com has it for $202 + about $12 for ground shipping
http://www.electrified.com/Catalog/Items/?ItemID=30555&Supplier=MITSUBISHI&ItemModel=915P020010
or onlinesupplystore.com $205 + shipping
http://www.onlinesupplystore.com/Product.asp?id=14770

I wonder how good they are compare to Mitsubishi Bulb?

Are they not the same as the bulb you get from Mitsubishi? Both sites list the manufacturer as Mitsubishi so I was thinking they were identical to those you would get from Mits.

Are they not the same as the bulb you get from Mitsubishi? Both sites list the manufacturer as Mitsubishi so I was thinking they were identical to those you would get from Mits.

It is pretty confusing, really....the one at Online SupplyStore says it is part number 915P026010 in the text box at the top, but lists the part number as 915P020010 in the box beside the lamp. It also calls it 'compatible.' The Electrified.com site specifically states to *not* buy a 915P026010 if you need the 915P020010 and that it won't work. They also make it point to state that their's includes the housing...and that it has a 90 day warranty provided by them. Ugh...nothing is easy....

Randy

Mitsubishi does not make their lamps. They are made by Osram. Ask the vendors that you are considering if it is the same Osram lamp. If their "OEM" is not Osram, then don't buy it.

It is pretty confusing, really....the one at Online SupplyStore says it is part number 915P026010 in the text box at the top, but lists the part number as 915P020010 in the box beside the lamp. It also calls it 'compatible.' The Electrified.com site specifically states to *not* buy a 915P026010 if you need the 915P020010 and that it won't work. They also make it point to state that their's includes the housing...and that it has a 90 day warranty provided by them. Ugh...nothing is easy....

Randy

To make it worse if you look on the bulb/housing itself there is a tag giving the part number as 915P020A10. The sticker on the front advising you what replacement part to buy lists the 915P020010. These are both on the same face of the housing so initially it's a bit confusing as to which is right. My theory (speculation only - not fact) is that maybe one is the bulb OR housing (only) part number and the other is the bulb AND housing number. In any case I know the last bulb I bought was the 915P020010 and this was the bulb + housing.

I simply kept my original bulb. It'd failed at many thousand hours and served me well. I have made mention in my living trust and I intend to be buried with it.

If you collect enough bulbs over the years maybe you can drain the mercury and just ask to be embalmed with it.

If you collect enough bulbs over the years maybe you can drain the mercury and just ask to be embalmed with it.

That's not a bad idea actually... Although I don't plan to stick around a whole lot longer and the bulbs seem to exceed 5,000 hours; I might have to buy failed bulbs from others to get enough...

Still, I'd highly recommend simply buying replacement bulbs from Mitsu. Their service was fast and the price was good, (less than $250 to my door, from memory) no worries. Online works fine with them in my experience.

Still, I'd highly recommend simply buying replacement bulbs from Mitsu. Their service was fast and the price was good, (less than $250 to my door, from memory) no worries. Online works fine with them in my experience.

I ended up ordering from Mitsu online and the delivery was in 2 days as advertised. Thanks.

good choice, oem part and they took care of you fast.

I have noticed a distinct tilt to my picture when there are horizontal bars at the top and the bottom of the screen. I notice this with some high def. broadcasts and also when there are weather alerts/school closings at the bottom of the screen. My Mits 52725 is under extended warranty with Warrentech. Called them one month ago and it was assigned to a local TV repair shop that has a shortage of workers now so nobody looked at it until today. They would not try to assess it onsite in my home but insisted that they had to pick it up because it most likely needed parts ordered. I have read previous threads regarding light engine horiz./vertical alignment screws but they insisted they had to have it in the shop. Today I get a phone call that it looks fine!!! The are checking a "crosshatch" pattern and it looks aligned as well as checking various channels like cnet and don't see a problem. The pattern in the service menu with the concentric squares of different colors was clearly tilted when I checked it but the tech says this screen is only used to check the light engine alignment and that if he aligns the picture with the mechanical adjustments using this screen, the picture will be out of alignment in the service menu. I have a service manual that describes the manual screw/keystone adjustments but how can I get this serviced under warrentech if the tech says everything is okay? He is going to check high definition inputs tomorrow to see if he can duplicate the problem that I noted. Previous posts on this site talk about adjusting tilt mechanically but this is a little more than I want to take on. Any suggestions? Also the tech claims that all mirrors are "hermetically sealed" when I reported that my picture was dull and wanted him to check the mirror to see if it needed cleaning. He clearly states that this is not a problem with these sets....ie. "I've been working on DLP sets since they came out and the mirrors are sealed."

The patterns in the service menu are for adjusting the tilt/keystone. That's what they're there for. Either this tech is grossly misinformed or more likely he's just giving you a b.s. line about how there's nothing wrong with your set because he doesn't want to bother fixing it. This b.s. probably works on nearly every other customer because they don't know any better. If there is another company in your area that will do warranty service for Warrentech I would take my TV to them instead. If that's not possible, print out the discussions in this forum regarding the tilt and dirty mirror issues....there is much documentation in here....and press the issue with this guy. A call to Mitsubishi service explaining your situation might also help. Good luck.

he certainly is wrong about not having dirty mirror issues, here is one pic from spiff72 posted on page 95 of this thread, you can find other pics on that page from him too along with a detail of how and why he had to clean it.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5657105&fullpage=1

I think he means the DLP chip with the mirrors on it. That is in side of the light engine.

well he said the tech said "all" mirrors, so the tech needs to know to check the mirror that does get dust on it easily and needs a cleaning and a better seal/taping of the opening.

Well screw all you guys.......just kidding.

All this damn bulb talk lately and I got the "Red Light of Death" last night. Can't complain too much I guess. I purchased the TV on Aug. 14, 2004 and this will be my first bulb change. Don't know the hours but will check and post with the numbers.

Bought it at Frys and paid the extra $479.95 for the 5 year warranty. Yes, I am one of those people who pay the extra money so nothing will happen. Anyway, I am going to fight tooth and nail to try and have Fry's replace the bulb for free. Has anyone had any success with having their lamp replaced for free? Any pointers and/or phrases I should use?

Warranty Says:
REPAIR AND REPLACEMENT - During the term of this Contract, Fry's shall furnish all functional parts and labor necessary to restore the Covered Equipment to normal operating condition in accordance with the manufacturer's specifications.

I love how they throw in the "Covered Equipment" in that phrase. In my world "Covered Equipment" is the TV......as a whole.....including all parts. I am sure they see it differently.

The foam block around the lens is supposed to be held in place with some sticky double faced tape on the back of the plastic that surrounds the hole. I tried to pull that foam piece back into position, but the tape would not hold it. The foam seems to have too much shape memory from being in that position too long, and it would want to go back to this position... I probably should have tried a little harder to seal it off...maybe next time I clean it I will try a little harder. I wanted to get it back together to see George Dubya speaking at the Commencement of my alma mater.

SCREEN REMOVAL:

To get the screen off, you need to remove the speaker grille, and remove the access panel that is right under the buttons. I shut off the TV and unplugged it at this point. Unplug the connector behind the panel that runs to the button panel. There are 2 screws that run through the silver panel that need to be removed (these are behind that access panel that you previously removed.

Then you have to remove the screws at the lower left and right corners (these are about an 1-1/2 inches below the bottom edge of the screen, and are covered by the speaker grille normally). There is a black plastic "fork" that points down from above (fork is part of the screen assembly). Now, on the back of the TV, there are 3 screws on each side, and 4 across the top. Once these have all been removed, the screen is actually lifted up and off (there are hooks on the back of the screen that disengage as you lift it, and the "forks" I mentioned earlier need to move up high enough to clear the slots they engage into.

Be careful with the screen, and DO NOT try setting it on its bottom, since the button panel is not strong enough to support it. I turned mine and leaned it carefully against a wall with one of the sides resting on the floor. I cleaned the mirror with a clean cotton tshirt and some premoistened eyeglass wipes. I really think it will never be completely dust free, since it is a surface that faces upward. It will always collect dust as long as dust can get inside.

To replace the screen I had my wife help me lift it back into place, watching the hooks to line them up with the slots on the TV, and making sure the lower "forks" fit correctly into position. Make sure that the wiring harness doesn't get stuck behind the screen. I then reattached this harness, and installed all of the screws in their original positions, replaced the access cover, and replaced the grill. I fired it back up and found a show with lots of white background, and it helped remove those pesky smudges.

YMMV, of course, and if you aren't comfortable doing this to your pride and joy, don't! I accept NO BLAME if you mess something up!

Thanks,
Jeff

I just thought I would revive this years old post above to state that I took these cleaning steps today (with my wife helping) on my 62725 and it worked wonders. The picture is much brighter. I also gave the lamp a few shakes (for the mercury) as recommended by another post.

Total time from start to finish was less than 45 minutes.

Just goes to show...using the AVS forum "search" function pays off.

I talked to someone at Frys. Put me in the system and said

"someone will contact you in 3-5 business days to schedule an appointment so they can come out and replace the lamp."

Although I'm not getting my hopes up.....have to say that it went a lot better than anticipated.


QUESTION

How long did your lamp last after seeing the red light?

I talked to someone at Frys. Put me in the system and said

"someone will contact you in 3-5 business days to schedule an appointment so they can come out and replace the lamp."

Although I'm not getting my hopes up.....have to say that it went a lot better than anticipated.


QUESTION

How long did your lamp last after seeing the red light?

Are you getting the red or orange/yellow light? I thought the red light meant that the bulb was dead.

Are you getting the red or orange/yellow light? I thought the red light meant that the bulb was dead.

I did also. I'm not aware of an instance where one could get a picture and have the red LED on -- the orange, sure, but the red?! The red is usually reserved for really bad days.

I noticed the red light yesterday while watching my NASCAR (insert spittoon noise here). Couldn't tell you if it was there when I first turned on the TV, but I don't think so. Once I turned the TV off the red light went off and the orange-ish one came on. I have not tried to turn on the TV today......but the light is still orange-ish.

Totally Swear

Wow, I did not know that.

Warranty Says:
REPAIR AND REPLACEMENT - During the term of this Contract, Fry's shall furnish all functional parts and labor necessary to restore the Covered Equipment to normal operating condition in accordance with the manufacturer's specifications.

I love how they throw in the "Covered Equipment" in that phrase. In my world "Covered Equipment" is the TV......as a whole.....including all parts. I am sure they see it differently.

If the term "Covered Equipment" is used with both words starting with capital letters, in a contract or other legal document this generally means this is a defined term that has a specific meaning under the contract. Somewhere else in the warranty document there should be something that makes it clear what Covered Equipment is. If it is NOT capitalized then this is really open to interpretation. I'd suggest that you check the rest of the language for the definition of the term before the service rep arrives.

QUESTION

How long did your lamp last after seeing the red light?

My first bulb blew without warning before any light came on (BTW - "Yellow" according to the manual). My second bulb lasted about 4 months after the light came on.

I assume that the yellow light is basically just an hour-meter and does not, for example, measure the current draw of the lamp or something. I don't know this for sure.

I noticed the red light yesterday while watching my NASCAR (insert spittoon noise here). Couldn't tell you if it was there when I first turned on the TV, but I don't think so. Once I turned the TV off the red light went off and the orange-ish one came on. I have not tried to turn on the TV today......but the light is still orange-ish.

Totally Swear
Well I will go ahead and say that I am now not 100% positive that the light was red. I finally got a chance to sit back down in "My Spot" and noticed that the light looked red again. When I got up to take a closer look it was in fact orange-ish....orangeish red in my opinion. Anyway, sorry for the confusion.

My first bulb blew without warning before any light came on (BTW - "Yellow" according to the manual). My second bulb lasted about 4 months after the light came on.

I assume that the yellow light is basically just an hour-meter and does not, for example, measure the current draw of the lamp or something. I don't know this for sure.

You are correct - this light is purely based on hours on the timer.

I just thought I would revive this years old post above to state that I took these cleaning steps today (with my wife helping) on my 62725 and it worked wonders. The picture is much brighter. I also gave the lamp a few shakes (for the mercury) as recommended by another post.

Total time from start to finish was less than 45 minutes.

Just goes to show...using the AVS forum "search" function pays off.

I just received my new bulb from Mits yesterday and will probably attempt to replace it this weekend although my old bulb is still working. After reading this I'm wondering how much longer it might last although I have the brightness and contrast maxed just for normal viewing.

I hadn't read that post in so long I forgot how involved it is to replace the bulb... or is replacing the bulb itself easier and the extra work of cleaning the mirror what takes all the time?

It would be nice if someone posted a pictorial "How To Change Bulb & Clean Mirror" thread or maybe it's been done?

although you can do at the same time they are completely different tasks.

the lamp replacement is easy do it yourself stuff for almost anybody.
take off the lower front speaker cover and use a screwdriver to take the lamp cover off and slide the old one out and slide the new one in, tightens the screws and replace the front lower cover, done.........most could do it in 5-10 minutes.

also remember to clean the filter on the lower back left side (looking at the screen), a couple screws and clean the foam filter, wash it out, dry it and replace it and cover with screws.

cleaning the mirror is a different level DIY project and may need a helper with the large screen you will need to remove and replace.

check one page back someone copied and pasted from page 95, where spiff wrote up the mirror cleaning up and also shows some pics just not in a complete pictorial.

When I cleaned the mirrors and wipe the bulb down it takes me no more than 45 minutes top. very simple to do.

If I get ambitious :rolleyes: and decide to do both, should I do the bulb replacement separately, or as part of the whole teardown and cleaning process? And if I do it seperately... do you do it first, or after you've done the mirror cleaning?

Last question (maybe) is whether there are any pictures of how to duct tape the foam seal back in place, or is that simply obvious?

BTW, I just installed a new (factory refurbished) Sony DVP-NS75H DVD Player because my old unit dies and the price on the Sony was only $53.00 (eCost). Bought an ordinary (GE not Monster) HDMI cable at HD and connected it up. I think the picture actually IS better... but I can't wait to see it with a new bulb and a clean mirror. :eek:

If I get ambitious :rolleyes: and decide to do both, should I do the bulb replacement separately, or as part of the whole teardown and cleaning process? And if I do it seperately... do you do it first, or after you've done the mirror cleaning?

Last question (maybe) is whether there are any pictures of how to duct tape the foam seal back in place, or is that simply obvious?

BTW, I just installed a new (factory refurbished) Sony DVP-NS75H DVD Player because my old unit dies and the price on the Sony was only $53.00 (eCost). Bought an ordinary (GE not Monster) HDMI cable at HD and connected it up. I think the picture actually IS better... but I can't wait to see it with a new bulb and a clean mirror. :eek:

If it was me I would clean the mirrors and the put the bulb in. I bet your mirrors are very dirty. That is probably why you have contrast and brightness maxed out.

When you duct tape the foam all you are doing is put ting the duct tape around the lens just to cover the foam.
I hope this helps.
Do not be afraid to take this all on. It is very simple to do. I have a 62725 that I do all by my self.

I've got quite the elaborate setup right now with my Mitsubishi WD-52628. Here is how it goes:

Xbox 360 component video to TV, optical audio to receiver
Comcast 3412 HD DVR HDMI video to TV, coax audio to receiver
Xbox component video to receiver, optical audio to receiver
Panny RP-82 component video to TV, coax audio to receiver
Nintendo Wii component video to receiver, stereo audio to receiver
Macbook HDMI video to TV, optical audio to receiver
Receiver component output to TV

Okay, so I set up NetCommand to control everything, so when I change from one device to another it sends the IR command to change the receiver input and tells it what video input the TV is on. Now here is the problem: the Xbox and the Wii are both running to the receiver. Even though they are the same input on the TV, they are different inputs on the receiver. What I wanted to do is say "Xbox video = comp-2 input/receiver 2 input" and "Wii = comp-2 input/receiver 3 input", but whenever I do that it says that comp-2 input is already assigned and do I want to delete it to set up this new device. No, I don't. I know it's the same input, but the audio is different, so all the Mitsubishi needs to do when I switch from Xbox to Wii or Wii to Xbox is send the IR code to the receiver the change, but it doesn't like that. So what I'm wondering is if this is a problem where I am totally screwed or if anyone else has run into this and maybe it is fixed in a firmware update I do not have.

Ideas?

If it was me I would clean the mirrors and the put the bulb in. I bet your mirrors are very dirty. That is probably why you have contrast and brightness maxed out.

When you duct tape the foam all you are doing is put ting the duct tape around the lens just to cover the foam.
I hope this helps.
Do not be afraid to take this all on. It is very simple to do. I have a 62725 that I do all by my self.

I never really had much of a halo effect on my W62725, but does the duck tape basically resolve that for most people? I will probably do both since I have the morning to kill and I have my Brother-In-Law and family up for the weekend.

No the duct tape is to help with the dust.

After reading this I'm wondering how much longer it might last although I have the brightness and contrast maxed just for normal viewing.


I'm guessing this is due to your mirrors or something other than your bulb. The sales pitch for the DLP is that unlike LCD displays bulb life does not affect picture quality. From posts in this forum that seems to be debatable but I'll say that in my own experience bulb life does not drastically affect picture quality. That is, I've not changed my contrast, brightness, etc. to compensate for an older bulb. Of courtse maybe your bulb is failing in some way differently than my first two did but I'm surpised that you need to put the brightness and contrast up all the way.

my bet is dirty mirrors... they will greatly affect the sets brightness and contrast.

What is the code to check the amount of hours on the LAMP?

TV menu 2470

I would love to know if anyone has experienced the following problem and/or has any suggestions.

First, I'm outputting a 1280x720 @ 60Hz signal; standard 720p. I also know that the problem I'm having isn't related to the PC since everything works fine on my friend's Westinghouse LCD HDTV.

Anyway, what happens (regardless of whether I'm using the VGA port or HDMI port via DVI-HDMI cable) is that all video playback (DVDs, PC animations, whatever) displays a skipping problem. The image will periodically hitch, basically pausing very briefly and then hopping forward to catch up. This only happens with video; audio is unaffected. These hitches do not always occur in the same spots of the stream, either.

Interestingly enough, when I use either PC reduce mode on the TV the problem changes. Instead of hitching, a horizontal scan-line appears and quickly pans vertically down the screen.

I've recently found out that every once in a while (and I mean twice in the past month) that rebooting the PC will change the problem so that the scan-line appears on standard 720p mode rather than hitching and much less frequently than usual. Unfortunately, rebooting again has always resulted in the return of hitching.

It seems like the TV is having some sort of problem processing the PC signal but it's normal 720p and at this point I am out of ideas.

I've got quite the elaborate setup right now with my Mitsubishi WD-52628. Here is how it goes:

Xbox 360 component video to TV, optical audio to receiver
Comcast 3412 HD DVR HDMI video to TV, coax audio to receiver
Xbox component video to receiver, optical audio to receiver
Panny RP-82 component video to TV, coax audio to receiver
Nintendo Wii component video to receiver, stereo audio to receiver
Macbook HDMI video to TV, optical audio to receiver
Receiver component output to TV

Okay, so I set up NetCommand to control everything,<SNIP> Ideas?

I dumped the NetCommand, and got a Harmony remote. It has not failed me yet, even with really wierd configurations. No one manufacturer can anticipate running third party stuff, and the millions of possible configurations out there. Harmony hit the nail on the head with a field programmable unit at a low cost, with a killer web based app to walk you through setting up your unique situation.

Got a call from the company that does the repair work for Frys. They said they have the lamp on order and will call me when it comes in. I made sure to ask them if the lamp replacement and service was free and they assured me that it was.

Looks like that $480 just saved me $263...........guess I can look at it like the extended warranty only cost me $217 (glass half-full type of guy).

OK, I did it! Last night I did the complete screen removal, cleaned everything and I mean everything... very thoroughly, and replaced the bulb. I like to help out here in AVS and did that once before by starting the BYO Stand thread... and its been a great help to me in designing and building my stand and it's helped many others as well.

So I snapped pictures through every step of my clean-up process and I'd like to figure out a way to create a permanent pictorial that will give everyone a preview of what to expect. I have 14 pictures and they have been scaled and commented with text/arrows like this:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/davis47/Mitsubishi/Mits-Svc-08.jpghttp://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/davis47/Mitsubishi/Mits-Svc-11.jpg

So before I post all 14 pix here... I want to ask permission from the moderators, and whether you guys want to see the entire process?

Sounds Good to me Lets see your Photos.

Dan...

I'll wait until tonight when I'm home, or if a mod posts an "OK". If nobody complains by then, I'll post the "How-To" for all. Fourteen pictures is a lot and while I know everyone would want to see this... I don't want to overstep my bounds. I'd also like to add some commentary in-between each shot explaining what it is you're looking at beyond the actual stuff in the pix.

Mike

Dan...

I'll wait until tonight when I'm home, or if a mod posts an "OK". If nobody complains by then, I'll post the "How-To" for all. Fourteen pictures is a lot and while I know everyone would want to see this... I don't want to overstep my bounds. I'd also like to add some commentary in-between each shot explaining what it is you're looking at beyond the actual stuff in the pix.

Mike

I can't see why anyone would object to a pictoral like you describe. I'm getting ready to clean my mirrors soon as I finally have the "smudge" others have talked about so for me this is good timing.

Looking at the rules for posting I don't see any prohibitions to posting pictures. The only stated prohibitions I could see are along the lines of, for example:

"[Don't] upload, post, email, transmit or otherwise make available any Content that is unlawful, harmful, threatening, abusive, harassing, tortious, defamatory, vulgar, obscene, libelous, invasive of another's privacy, hateful, or racially, ethnically or otherwise objectionable. AVS Forum is not the place for debate on religion, sex, politics, or other such controversial posts; and this is not the place to talk about illegal downloads or how to obtain them. There are several forums on the Internet dedicated for discussing this type of material. This is not one of them."

I don't see anything talking about posting of pictures generally as not allowed.

Dan...

I'll wait until tonight when I'm home, or if a mod posts an "OK". If nobody complains by then, I'll post the "How-To" for all. Fourteen pictures is a lot and while I know everyone would want to see this... I don't want to overstep my bounds. I'd also like to add some commentary in-between each shot explaining what it is you're looking at beyond the actual stuff in the pix.

Mike

Just go for it, man...

Keep the pics about the same size as the ones you posted a moment ago (so they don't force most browser windows to scroll horizontally). Thats the only thing I think anyone would complain about.

It could be a long time before a mod sees your request.

OK Guys... here's the skinny on two of the most important user-services you'll probably ever do on your Mitsubishi DLP set. This set of photos shows the lamp replacement but more importanly... it shows the clean-up process of the mirror and the "repair" of the loose foam lens collar. This particular set is my WD62725, but I'm pretty sure it would apply to the 52" as well. So we'll assume that everyone knows that the entire full-width speaker grill assembly simply pops of the chassis, and you've pulled the plug on the set. I'll try and do a quick commentary on each shot and I should note that until a mod jumps in here, I have to break this down into at least two (2) posts. Hopefully they'll join them up and maybe even make it a sticky.


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/davis47/Mitsubishi/Mits-Svc-00.jpg
OK, this shot shows the cover plate of the lamp assembly removed. Further inside are three thumbscrews that have slots for snugging them tight. Use a large screwdriver to loosen them, then rotate counterclockwise until they feel loose. They don't come free of the lamp assembly.


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/davis47/Mitsubishi/Mits-Svc-01.jpg
The lamp assembly has a flip-down wire handle that is used to pull it out and it removes fairly easily. The Lamp assembly sort of rides in a track, so don't worry about alignment... it can only go in one way. This shot shows the lamp removed. You might see some dust inside here and while you're in the cleaning mode... it'd be smart to clean it out. I used my Home Depot PC Vacumn Kit which attaches to a normal vacumn and gives you a thin 1/2" tube with a soft brush and different angles. Vacumn first, then wipe down with a damp, soft old hand towel or a previously washed (several times) microfiber cloth.


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/davis47/Mitsubishi/Mits-Svc-02.jpg
Note that right next to the lamp chute, there's a removeable plastic panel. It has four (4) screws, two are recessed on top. Remove this panel and put it aside with the screws. BTW, I'm pretty sure that all the screws you'll encounter are identical. The two recessed screws are not very obvious because they are sunken, so don't forget to put them back when you re-assemble :).


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/davis47/Mitsubishi/Mits-Svc-03.jpg
OK, the panel is off and I've highlighted the important connection between the controls and the set. Separate the plug and note the orientation... although it's marked. This plug is a tough one and I actually had to (gently) squeeze the two wings with a pair of water-pump pliers to pull it apart. I'll show a close-up later. Note that the two (2) screws on the silver panel must also be removed to allow the screen to be lifted up and away from the chassis.


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/davis47/Mitsubishi/Mits-Svc-04.jpg
On the front side of the set in the two lower corners there's a pair of forked plates that lock the bottom of the screen in place. Loosen these screws about 75% out and leave them in place. I've highlighted the forked plates so you know what I'm talking about.


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/davis47/Mitsubishi/Mits-Svc-05.jpg
Now move around to the back of the set and remove ALL the secrews on the sides and top of the rear housing. These lock everything in place, but the screen is still held in place because it's hanging in a metal extrusion.


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/davis47/Mitsubishi/Mits-Svc-06.jpg
Back to that connection. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE SEPARATED THE CONNECTOR SHOWN HERE BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO LIFT THE SCREEN!


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/davis47/Mitsubishi/Mits-Svc-07.jpg
OK, I recommend that two people do this. The screen is not that heavy, but its a little unwieldy. Grab the screen from the front of the set with one hand on the side and another just under the lower lip. Lift up and out, and then away from the set. Since the control panel sticks out on the bottom, rotate the screen 90° and set it dow on it's side so the inside is accessible to you. Lean it against a wall or a soft chair. If you do the wall deal, then put a towel at the top to prevent scratching (the wall and the screen). This shot shows the set with the screen removed and you get a good sense of how this awesome set works. BTW, the entire inside housing had a film-like light coating that was more like chalk than the dust shown in the lower mirror. Before cleaning the mirrors, I suggest you vacumn the gray plastic (ALL OF IT) and then wipe it down with a dampened towel. Once that is done you can focus on the big mirror and then the smaller one.

(to be continued)

(continued from above)

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/davis47/Mitsubishi/Mits-Svc-08.jpg
OK, this is where it gets good :). For whatever reason, the lower (lamp) mirror seems to attract dust like nobody's business. It's at a fixed angle and that obviously has something to do with it. In this picture, you see what I call the "Problem Areas" that need your Attention and TLC. You can see the gap around the lens in the foam collar, and the mirror looks frosted... but it's just filthy.


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/davis47/Mitsubishi/Mits-Svc-09.jpg
Here's a close-up of the culpirt. My mirror is filthy and you can easily write graffiti on the mirror and I'd bet the picture would be brighter and sharper where you drag your finger. OK, here I used a camel lens brush to get the initial mess off. Then I used the PC Vacumn to clean it better, and at the same time I vacumned all around this area and under the big, main mirror too. After vacumning the chassis, I then wiped down all the gray plastic with a clean, damp rag.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/davis47/Mitsubishi/Mits-Svc-10.jpg
Once I was done with that, I went back to the mirror and wiped it with an alcohol swab. I let that air dry, and then went back with a old, soft piece of flannel dampened with windex and wiped it again, then dried it. In this shot you can see the difference between a dirty (above shot) and a clean mirror. I repeated the basic process on the lens.


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/davis47/Mitsubishi/Mits-Svc-11.jpg
You've no doubt seen the gap surrounding the lens with the foam collar in the previous pictures. In order to nudge that collar back to a snug fit, you'll have to open the access panel alongside the lens. There's three (3) screws and nothing to be afraid about. Once you remove the panel, get yourself some good duct tape (I used Gorilla HD brand) and cut a couple of small sections to adhere to the foam inside the opening... and then you wrap it forward so the the leading edge of the tape catches on to the plastic.


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/davis47/Mitsubishi/Mits-Svc-12.jpg
Now you can see how nice and snug I was able to get the foam. It might help with the dust, and it might also help with the halo effect that some sets had. My "halo" was so little that I never bothered to play around with it.


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/davis47/Mitsubishi/Mits-Svc-13.jpg
I replaced my lamp with the new one and didn't try to see if the clean-up got my picture looking better. I figure that I have a lamp with 3000 hours on it, but it works... so if I need one quick, I have it. Note that its showing age though... the hazing of the lens has started in the 6-9 o'clock area, looks a little frosted and streaky.


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/davis47/Mitsubishi/Mits-Svc-14.jpg

Put it all back together and repowered and... BadaBing!!! :D we have a beautiful, bright, and crystal clear picture once again. I watched some of the Yankees game tonight in HD and it was truly awesome. I can now see the stiching on the uniform seams and watch the spin on the pitches. All in all, the complete deal took me about an hour, and that includes cleaning the inside of the lenticular screen. There was a dirty gray film in there that showed up on the damp T-Shirt rags I was using on that part.

SUMMARY: I take no responsibility for your actions, but if you choose to do this little bit of maintenance, I bet you'll love the results. It is not that big a deal, and a good philips screwdriver is the primary tool although I used some long tweezers to move the foam around, the water pump pliers helped with a stubborn electrical connector, and don't forget the Gorilla Tape! I hope everyone enjoys this little pictorial/tutorial. It was fun to do and this is what the AVS community is all about. Next, I have to borrow some calibration software from a friend of mine so I can tweak this baby! :)

Absolutely awesome, Iron Horse! I have been intending to take this on for some time now, and this will definitely help...I might even tackle it this weekend...thanks!!!!

Randy

Not on the cleaning subject, but a question on the WD62725 remote. Has anyone been able to use the DTV function on thier Mits remote? I recall trying it a couple of years ago and it didn't work... wondered if they might work with the newer DTV receivers.

nice job on the pics ironhorse.

just unreal how dirty the mirror gets and that any set evens comes close to still putting out a pic with it that dirty.

nice pics :)

Think of the dust as a blur type filter one would apply to an image in photoshop... not only does it reduce brightness, it also serves to soften the picture up noticeably.

nice job on the pics ironhorse.

just unreal how dirty the mirror gets and that any set evens comes close to still putting out a pic with it that dirty.

About six months ago we were doing over our kitchen and also some work in the family room where the TV resides. I had a "popcorn" ceiling in the FR which I've always hated, so I had the contractor scrape it off and skim coat it plus we changed over from track lighting to all high-hats. He taped sheet plastic to the walls, and also draped the Mits and sealed it up on the sides down to the floor. And of course he covered the 1-year old carpet with canvas tarps. They used a power sander to sand in-between coats and of course these guys used respiratord but the sheetrock sander is a self-contained sanding head thats connected byt a jointed wand/pipe to a vacumn unit. I was having issues with the brightness before we started that project, but I swear that somehow, some of the dust snaked its way back up through the sealed plastic and onto that mirror!

I suppose a good test would be to take note of the brightness and contrast settings and swap in the old lamp to see how bad it really was. I may do that after Easter... just for kicks. The lamp changeover is all of 5 minutes. But for those of you who tackle this big cleaning... take your time and really clean everything... not just the mirrors and lens. Who knows if dust blows around inside with the cooling fan.

sounds like it was sealed off pretty good.

it's just that these particular mits dlp sets overall seem to get these dirty mirrors with the way it sits and how the foam tends to not stay sealed as it should.

The pictures are great, Ironhorse. This is the sort of thing these forums are meant to do.

Now that we have the mirror and bulb issues under control.....

I just bought a series 3 Tivo so that I could record OTA in HD. It has multiple video outputs including HDMI and component. Unfortunately I've always had problems with the HDMI on my Mitsu (too long of a story for here) so am using component.

The Series 3 component out DOES output HD signals thankfully (unlike for example the component out from my Panny S97 DVD player which can only send 480i or 480p). My first question for the forum is which of the video output modes are people finding work best with the Mitsu. The Tivo allows output of "fixed" 720p or 1080i as well has "hybrid" modes that allow SD signals to pass at 480 but with HD signals being sent as a user selectable 720p or 1080i (only). There is also a catch all "native" mode.

So far I think the "native" mode works best. It sends a signal in whatever format the signal was received by the Tivo (480i, 720p, etc.). I've seen it send 1080i which the Mitsu handles pretty well. When I force the output to be 720p there are noticeable artifacts where edges of dark areas have a rippled look to them (even when playing with Definedge and contrast settings). It appear the 1080i to 720p conversion is not ideal in the Tivo and is handled better by the Mitsu

The picture from the TiVo is also "goosed" as compared to a component signal from my DVD player also into a component input. I've turned down the color and contrast settings quite a bit as compared to the DVD player.

The jury is still out as to whether or not there is PQ degradation running the OTA antenna through the Tivo as compared to just straight into the set. I've only had it one day so I don't have any opinion on this yet.

Any other TiVo series 3 users with opinions on these things?

How often should the Mirrors be cleaned in these sets??

Six to nine months. Depends on your environment (e.g., dusty, smoky, dry).

Thanks IronHorse!

I just made the plunge and cleaned the mirrors along with my brother. I kept starting it and ended up chickening out every time. These pictures help a lot. I had to do it twice though because I left a smudge on the large mirror that kept showing up on the screen when the background was light. I had to get my brother over two days in a row. Also, I think you might have left out one picture of two screws in the middle front section that you didn't provide a picture for. My brother and I kept trying to get it to lift up and out but it was stuck. We then noticed that there are two more screws in the front middle are on the grey plastic that need to be removed. My mirrors weren't that dusty so there was a difference but it was minimal. Thanks again for these pictures, I probably would not have done it were it not for the pictures.

lujan

Ironhorse you're the greatest!
Thanks for the instructions and pictures.
I did my set last night and the difference in the picture is small but noticable.
All in all a very easy procedure with a good payoff!

I had the same observation about the two middle screws in the front below the controls. They had to be removed to get the screen off. Mine is a 52725 so perhaps that's a difference?

Thanks again!

Tony

Green tint issues still:

Well I swapped out my parents Cox HD DVR to the latest model and decided to use HDMI and sure enough it STILL has the green tint ..some channels seem worse than others. I tried adjusting the Perfectcolor settings bu it doesn't help much. Plus at times I can't even adjust the color.

I have the latest firmware loaded as well.

I finally called the extended warranty folks (via Ultimate Elec) and they are scheduling a local authorized Mitsu tech to come by to see what's up.

Since I last posted in January, has anyone figured out the underlying cause in case I need to speak some jargon to the tech guy when he shows up? I just don't want him to say "Oh this is normal, live with it"....If that were the case, they say they could bill dad for the diagnostic visit (so says the warranty company).

Any info is appreciated.

Green tint issues still:

Any info is appreciated.

Quick question. Is the Auto box un-checked in Audio/Video menu?

Quick question. Is the Auto box un-checked in Audio/Video menu?

I've tried it checked and unchecked...

I called the repair center and discussed it with the tech guy just to see what might be up...he says they'll do a full check of the light engine and do a full calibration to hopefully resolve things.

Crossing our fingers it works and the parents won't have to watch neon green colored golf courses etc...:)

I've tried it checked and unchecked...
Should be un-checked.

If it is un-checked and your Color and Tint settings are around 31, then I would say that you probably have an problem.

Someone posted these settings and numbers for a cablebox

Here are cablebox settings for hdmi and component:

HDMI/Component

Magenta 54/51
Red 57/33
Yellow 45/39
Green 32/29
Cyan 31/29
Blue 63/31
Sharpness 29/15
Temp Low/low
Tnt 32/32
Color 31/31
Bright 26/44
Contrast 60/48
Definedge - off
Noise Reduction - standard


Good Luck........and keep us posted

Ironhorse you're the greatest!
Thanks for the instructions and pictures.
I did my set last night and the difference in the picture is small but noticable.
All in all a very easy procedure with a good payoff!

I had the same observation about the two middle screws in the front below the controls. They had to be removed to get the screen off. Mine is a 52725 so perhaps that's a difference?

Thanks again!

Tony

Tony...

No that was my bad :eek: But I corrected it today so the two screws are noted. And yes, its really not too traumatic a process and the results are usually good to fabulous... just depends on how long its been and how dusty an environment you have in your house. My lower mirror was totally filthy and unacceptable!

We have forced hot air but with a significant Aprilaire deep filtration system and I replace the filters every quarter even though they say it only needs to be once a year. I also had 4-6 months of construction going on in the family room and kitchen last summer and fall... so that didn't help.

I think the notion of cleaning the mirrors and the interior of the chassis on a yearly basis is probably a good idea. ;)

Mike

Can someone give me some help with the discrete remote codes for the 52725. I just purchased a new dvd player which I am connecting through the monolink(hdmi) input and I didn't see that input listed in the codes I have.

I just bought/installed a new Sony Up-Convert HDMI on my 62725... wasn't that big a deal. Used a Home Depot GE brand HDMI cable which was more pliable than the Monster brand that everyone is avoiding. Works great too. Assuming you haven't used the MONOLINK selection yet, that's what you want to use, and check the two boxes as well. Right now... when I use the DVD, I must power up the AV Receiver to get audio as none comes out of the TV's front panel... but it sounds great with my Bose front/rear + Sub + Infinity Center.

To see what's been used, you can select the REVIEW feature and you'll see a complete list of I/Os with check marks on those already assigned.

I am using the monolink input and everything works great. I purchased the oppo unpconverting dvd player. My problem is that I am using an MX-500 universal remote to control the whole system and I need the discrete code for the monolink input. I have them for the composite inputs but don't see one listed for the monolink. Anyone have it?

:( :(

SIGH...

I was on the phone with the repairman while he "tested" my parents WD 52725 for the green tint issues. We recorded some shows last night and played them back...they all saw the crazy green tint issues..he said the grayscale was fine and some other setting was fine and that it was "normal" and maybe just a network TV issue.... :rolleyes:
I had them watch two other tv's in the house to prove that the show they had on "live" was indeed perfect on the other TV's in the house, but the DLP made greens look ..well...too green.

I asked him if he planned to go into the service menu and he said no, he's not authorized by Mitsubishi to go into the service menu if grayscale is fine etc...I asked if he could at least test out a few adjustments to see if it helped, and he said no because it would mess up the other colors...

I asked him to call Mitsubishi t talk it over with them since he witnessed it first hand and he said he would and would get us a log number to show he tried to investigate it.

I'm at a loss...myself, family, the repair guy all see the overbearing greens but it seems the repair folks are content with it staying that way.

So am I nuts? Is the green tint issue just a nature of this DLP beast?

He was stumped as to why some channels look "normal" and some look greenish.

Oh well....

I am using the monolink input and everything works great. I purchased the oppo unpconverting dvd player.

What model Oppo are you using and how is the picture quality? I'm looking at the Oppos too. Do you see any macroblocking or artifacts (assuming you have the Farudga'ed Oppo player)?

Thanks!

I have the basic 149 dollar model. Think it is the 970. I have only had it hooked up for a day and my viewing has been pretty brief but so far I like what I see. No macro blocking or noticeable artifacts to detract from the picture. Like I said though I have just hooked it up and haven't done any detailed viewing.

Anybody have the code I requested? I hate to think I can't use my universal for movie viewing.

As Emily Litella(sp?) would say "Nevermind". Answered the question for myself by going to Remote Control Central website. The sqv button is the answer.

I have the basic 149 dollar model. Think it is the 970. I have only had it hooked up for a day and my viewing has been pretty brief but so far I like what I see. No macro blocking or noticeable artifacts to detract from the picture. Like I said though I have just hooked it up and haven't done any detailed viewing.

Thanks, appreciate the comments. Hope the SQV button solves your issue with the remote.

As Emily Litella(sp?) would say "Nevermind". Answered the question for myself by going to Remote Control Central website. The sqv button is the answer.

I poked around Remote Central for a couple of minutes this afternoon, but didn't find it right off. Glad you located it!

Randy