:( :(

So am I nuts? Is the green tint issue just a nature of this DLP beast?

He was stumped as to why some channels look "normal" and some look greenish.

Oh well....
When you get a chance post up all the settings (Perfect Color numbers for each color, color, tint, sharpness, black enhancement, brightness, contrast, define edge, temp., etc.). Furthermore, post the info in the Menu screen (Menu 2470), the info on the top.

I just had my lamp replaced and recalibrated my TV with DVE. I will try to post up the info later.

As soon as I can get over there again I will...I take it I hit the menu button then type in the 2470 ???

Thanks

New lamp and calibrated with DVE during daylight hours using a Sony Progressive Scan DVD player connected via Component Cables directly to the TV.

-PERFECT COLOR SETTINGS-
Magenta - 37
Red - 41
Yellow - 36
Green - 38
Cyan - 33
Blue - 30

-AUDIO/VIDEO MENU-
Black Enhancement - Off
Video Mute - On

-VIDEO SETTINGS-
Color Temp - Low
Video Noise - Standard
Defining Edge - On
Contrast - 38
Brightness - 49
Sharpness - 14
Color - 32
Tint - 29

-2470 MENU-
Power Restore - On
DTV Port - Auto
Direct Key Mode - Off
Software - V26 004.04
Digital Signal Strength - N/A

I personally turn sharpness to 0 and definedge off... Definedge does something weird to the chroma response of the TV and the sharpness adds too much ringing... even at 0 sharpness, there is still unneeded edge enhancement going on.

I personally turn sharpness to 0 and definedge off... Definedge does something weird to the chroma response of the TV and the sharpness adds too much ringing... even at 0 sharpness, there is still unneeded edge enhancement going on.
This was one question I had about my settings. I read that the defining edge should be off, but I just can't seem to justify it. Whenever I turn it off I just can't see how the softening of the edges makes the picture better, it almost seems like the lines are blended, instead of sharp. Willing to try it. Will keep you posted.

Other Questions:

Black Enhancement......on or off? I have always had it on, but am trying it off this time.

DTV Port in the 2470 Menu......Auto or 1080i? There are four settings (480i, 480p, 1080i, and AUTO).

Video Mute.....what the hell does this do? on or off?


Input appreciated.

I have the basic 149 dollar model. Think it is the 970. I have only had it hooked up for a day and my viewing has been pretty brief but so far I like what I see. No macro blocking or noticeable artifacts to detract from the picture. Like I said though I have just hooked it up and haven't done any detailed viewing.

Not to drift this into a DVD player discussion but I'd be surprised if you don't eventually see macrcoblocking unless Oppo has made recent improvements. I have a Panny S97 with the Faroujda chip and definitely see it. If Oppo is still using it as well I think you'll find it eventually. Recent firmware updates for the Panny are reported to have helped so maybe Oppo has done something in that way.

From the Panny forum there are a lot of discussions about Oppo vs Panny and it appears they are generally similar (comments go both ways on which is better. Obviously on the Panny thread most prefer the Panny to the Oppo but there's bias in that). With the Panny MB was only seen if using an output other than 480i (I assume you are not using 480i). I chose to output 480p but MB is seen with the Panny with a 720p output as well.

I will definitely look more closely at the player when I get a chance this weekend. At this point I too have it set to output 480p but will play with the other resolutions and report back.

For those of you looking for a nice, cheap DVD that does Up-Convert, check out the (factory refurbished) Sony DVP-NS75H at eCost for only $53.00, complete with warranty. Bought an ordinary (GE not Monster) HDMI cable at HD and connected it up. The picture actually IS better... although I haven't done any calibration on this set. I'm chasing a buddy of mine who has the CDs.

New lamp and calibrated with DVE during daylight hours using a Sony Progressive Scan DVD player connected via Component Cables directly to the TV.

-PERFECT COLOR SETTINGS-
Magenta - 37
Red - 41
Yellow - 36
Green - 38
Cyan - 33
Blue - 30

-AUDIO/VIDEO MENU-
Black Enhancement - Off
Video Mute - On

-VIDEO SETTINGS-
Color Temp - Low
Video Noise - Standard
Defining Edge - On
Contrast - 38
Brightness - 49
Sharpness - 14
Color - 32
Tint - 29

-2470 MENU-
Power Restore - On
DTV Port - Auto
Direct Key Mode - Off
Software - V26 004.04
Digital Signal Strength - N/A
What is power restore mine says off?

This was one question I had about my settings. I read that the defining edge should be off, but I just can't seem to justify it. Whenever I turn it off I just can't see how the softening of the edges makes the picture better, it almost seems like the lines are blended, instead of sharp. Willing to try it. Will keep you posted.

Other Questions:

Black Enhancement......on or off? I have always had it on, but am trying it off this time.

DTV Port in the 2470 Menu......Auto or 1080i? There are four settings (480i, 480p, 1080i, and AUTO).

Video Mute.....what the hell does this do? on or off?


Input appreciated.

Video Mute is what makes the screen blue when there is no signal (on cable and antenna), rather than seeing snow.

I don't know what you should set the DTV port to. This is for the input that can be used for component video and for the RGBHV (5 wire) signals. This setting lets you choose whether it auto-switches for the correct resolution, or you can set it for a fixed resolution, assuming your source is a fixed resolution.

FYI, this input doesn't deal with missing signals very well - it tells you to check the cable connections when there is no signal present, and you are viewing this input.

For those of you looking for a nice, cheap DVD that does Up-Convert, check out the (factory refurbished) Sony DVP-NS75H at eCost for only $53.00, complete with warranty. Bought an ordinary (GE not Monster) HDMI cable at HD and connected it up. The picture actually IS better... although I haven't done any calibration on this set. I'm chasing a buddy of mine who has the CDs.

This player rates an 85 in the Secrets DVD Player shootout. Not bad at all for $53.

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-bin/shootout.cgi?function=search&articles=all

Iron Horse, you are the MAN! I tackled the mirror cleaning project today, and it looks fantastic :) Just in time for the hockey playoffs in HD! My mirror needed cleaning, but wasn't too bad. The one thing I noticed and would definitely recommend to anyone undertaking this maintenance is to make sure you clean the inside of your screen real good (you have to remove the screen anyways to get to it, might as well get that too).

My main problem was seeing those "smudges" in white background scenes (obviously plenty of those in hockey) and I was amazed at how dirty the inside of the screen was. In fact, it was worse than the mirror. A good cleaning of that, along with the mirrors, has me excited about watching all the glorious HD content again.

I did a few other items, including the foam, cleaned the lamp area, and cleaned the dust filter, as well as inside and out of all the screens. It didn't take too long, and following your instructions step by step guided me through the whole thing pretty easily, and I am not accustomed to taking things like this apart. Kudos to a fine contribution ;)

:( :(

SIGH...

I was on the phone with the repairman while he "tested" my parents WD 52725 for the green tint issues. We recorded some shows last night and played them back...they all saw the crazy green tint issues..he said the grayscale was fine and some other setting was fine and that it was "normal" and maybe just a network TV issue.... :rolleyes:
I had them watch two other tv's in the house to prove that the show they had on "live" was indeed perfect on the other TV's in the house, but the DLP made greens look ..well...too green.

I asked him if he planned to go into the service menu and he said no, he's not authorized by Mitsubishi to go into the service menu if grayscale is fine etc...I asked if he could at least test out a few adjustments to see if it helped, and he said no because it would mess up the other colors...

I asked him to call Mitsubishi t talk it over with them since he witnessed it first hand and he said he would and would get us a log number to show he tried to investigate it.

I'm at a loss...myself, family, the repair guy all see the overbearing greens but it seems the repair folks are content with it staying that way.

So am I nuts? Is the green tint issue just a nature of this DLP beast?

He was stumped as to why some channels look "normal" and some look greenish.

Oh well....
Many of these units, including mine, have a 'green push'. I have not been able to correct it entirely through the service settings. But I am not upset. Rather, I have grown to love my TV for what it is, not what I think it should be.

18 months of therapy helped me work this out. ;)

I just brought my WD-65731 home yesterday. This is the 3rd 1080p set I have tried. I started off with the 61" JVC Lcos, then the 61" Samsung DLP. I had many problems with these two sets (SEVERE pincushion, grainyness, poor SD quality). My last option was the Mits 65". I wasn't expecting too much since the calibrators on this site say that the Mits was poor compared to the Samsung ...

Well, I will tell you that I am 100% satisfied with the Mits. It's incredible. From HTPC, HD, HD DVD, Blue ray, HD camcorder, and SD (stretch plus mode), I have zero complaints. The chassis makes the Samsung seem like a disposable set. The Samsung is flimsy and the Mits is solid as a rock in comparison.

I haven't had any rainbows, or any color problems whatsoever. There is no pincusion issues with this set, the picture is perfect. I have company over this weekend and everyone that has seen this set is BLOWN away.

Anyway, I just thought I would chime in and give props to the Mits fans. I LOVE this set and I am glad my 1080p shopping is over.

SWEET!

I just brought my WD-65731 home yesterday. This is the 3rd 1080p set I have tried. I started off with the 61" JVC Lcos, then the 61" Samsung DLP. I had many problems with these two sets (SEVERE pincushion, grainyness, poor SD quality). My last option was the Mits 65". I wasn't expecting too much since the calibrators on this site say that the Mits was poor compared to the Samsung ...

Well, I will tell you that I am 100% satisfied with the Mits. It's incredible. From HTPC, HD, HD DVD, Blue ray, HD camcorder, and SD (stretch plus mode), I have zero complaints. The chassis makes the Samsung seem like a disposable set. The Samsung is flimsy and the Mits is solid as a rock in comparison.

I haven't had any rainbows, or any color problems whatsoever. There is no pincusion issues with this set, the picture is perfect. I have company over this weekend and everyone that has seen this set is BLOWN away.

Anyway, I just thought I would chime in and give props to the Mits fans. I LOVE this set and I am glad my 1080p shopping is over.

SWEET!
That's fine, except you've posted in the wrong Mits thread. This thread concerns the Mits xx525/xx725/xx825 series 720p sets.

That's fine, except you've posted in the wrong Mits thread. This thread concerns the Mits xx525/xx725/xx825 series 720p sets.

I think he was just excited to talk about his happiness with Mits owners in general (based on the last line of his post). :)

I don't mind hearing a little about other sets, i'll be in the market for a new set soon enough, one thing I would like know is do newer Mits DLP's have the same problem with dust on the mirrors.

I don't mind hearing a little about other sets, i'll be in the market for a new set soon enough, one thing I would like know is do newer Mits DLP's have the same problem with dust on the mirrors.
NO. They have repositioned the projection lens to eliminate the smaller upward facing/dust collecting mirror. At least this is what the tech told me.

Iron Horse, you are the MAN! I tackled the mirror cleaning project today, and it looks fantastic :) Just in time for the hockey playoffs in HD! My mirror needed cleaning, but wasn't too bad. The one thing I noticed and would definitely recommend to anyone undertaking this maintenance is to make sure you clean the inside of your screen real good (you have to remove the screen anyways to get to it, might as well get that too).

My main problem was seeing those "smudges" in white background scenes (obviously plenty of those in hockey) and I was amazed at how dirty the inside of the screen was. In fact, it was worse than the mirror. A good cleaning of that, along with the mirrors, has me excited about watching all the glorious HD content again.

I did a few other items, including the foam, cleaned the lamp area, and cleaned the dust filter, as well as inside and out of all the screens. It didn't take too long, and following your instructions step by step guided me through the whole thing pretty easily, and I am not accustomed to taking things like this apart. Kudos to a fine contribution ;)

BD...

Yeah... I did clean mine (screen inside) and it was smudgy-dirty with a dark grey chalky stuff coming off on the flannel. Actually cleaned it three times before I felt it was clean. Its some kind of electrostatic dust (for lack of a better name) that coats everything in these sets. Thats why I suggested even cleaning the chassis, just so there's little chance of immediate transfer. I caught part of the Nets-Bulls game last night and it was beyond belief. I haven't caught a Yankee game in HD yet, but tomorrow night I think the Red Sox-Yankee game is in HD. All NESN home games are in HD IIRC.

I have the 52725...

I did a search in this thread and couldn't find anything on my problem...

Anybody found a viable solution in putting a medium to large sized center channel speaker on top of their Mitsu? I've read in another section here someone finding a shelf rack in Lowes but he had a different type of HDTV.

Any input is appreciated, tia.

You might want to check out the "Build Your Own" [BYO] Thread. Many people were toying with that idea using what I'd call a "bridge" shelf or cabinet. Mine is located under my set, about 8" off the ground and it works just fine as long as you aren't an audiophyle type who would give you a list of 15 reasons why the center needs to be higher than the screen. I have Bose cubes (2 sets of two) above and in the corners of my room, the sub behind the TV which is actually angled in one corner, the Infinity center dead center in the cabinet below the set, and Bose rears in the opposite corners. Nothing really makes much sense except 99% of the friends and family who have seen a football game or a movie on the set have raved about the "surround sound". Of course... none of us are audio engineers we're just ham and eggers :).

My Mitsu 52725 has stopped staying on. Picture comes on and then after 1-2 minutes the screen blanks blue and shuts down 10 seconds later. Have system reset and changed plug outlets but still no improvement. Any ideas on the problem that could be resolved? Appreciate any input.

My Mitsu 52725 has stopped staying on. Picture comes on and then after 1-2 minutes the screen blanks blue and shuts down 10 seconds later. Have system reset and changed plug outlets but still no improvement. Any ideas on the problem that could be resolved? Appreciate any input.

Try checking the LED indicators on the front panel. They are probably blinking some sort of trouble code.

These are pages from the service manual that are relevant to the trouble codes.

Spiff 72, thanks for manual pdf. Will help in resolving the problem.

Randy,

Do you have the same model TV as I have (the xx525 series) or the xx725?

If so, I am wondering if they corrected these issues in the newer models.

I originally hooked up my Dish 811 receiver to the HDMI input (with a DVI-HDMI adapter cable), and was very disappointed. Blacks look like grays. I ended up using component video. I later got rid of the Dish, and bought an HDDVR from Sony. This one had an HDMI output, and I tried it first, but it was immediately apparent that the same was true on this device too - the initial setup menus have a black background, and I could tell that this was definitely a TV issue.

There were a lot of complaints about the HDMI input on the older Mits DLP xx525 thread (which has faded into oblivion)...

It just occurred to me that I might be able to leverage by extended warranty to see if I could get a fix for it (at the risk of waiting while they replace every part in the TV and never solve the problem).

It was just a thought! :D

EDIT: Maybe they would replace the whole TV if they can't fix it!

spiff72 - it has been a long time since I've been here, and it's good to see you are still posting. I, too, long ago gave up using my HDMI port, but decided to check this thread for any new info. Did you ever get any resolution on the washed out quality of your HDMI?

I have the 52725...

I did a search in this thread and couldn't find anything on my problem...

Anybody found a viable solution in putting a medium to large sized center channel speaker on top of their Mitsu? I've read in another section here someone finding a shelf rack in Lowes but he had a different type of HDTV.

Any input is appreciated, tia.
I've been using the Omnimount CCH1 for over a year and love it. Works perfect. Here's a link:
http://www.omnimount.com/consumer/product.aspx?ProductId=ad90ae4a-a012-47db-9bdb-1c3318a4fdf9

Amazon sells them for $30.

spiff72 - it has been a long time since I've been here, and it's good to see you are still posting. I, too, long ago gave up using my HDMI port, but decided to check this thread for any new info. Did you ever get any resolution on the washed out quality of your HDMI?

Wow - how long ago did I post that?? :D

I didn't really find a resolution. I did get an S3 Tivo, and I hooked it up with both HDMI and Component video. I was able to tweak the settings to a point where I was satisfied with the picture on HDMI. I do need to get BB to replace my lamp soon, though. I wonder what the brightness increase will do to my tweaks.

Honestly, I haven't been watching it much lately, since my wife has been confined to our main floor, and we bought a Sony flat panel for the living room on that floor. That is the TV we have been watching all the time now. Come summer, we will probably be retreating to the cooler basement again and watching the Mits again.

Wow - how long ago did I post that?? :D

I didn't really find a resolution. I did get an S3 Tivo, and I hooked it up with both HDMI and Component video. I was able to tweak the settings to a point where I was satisfied with the picture on HDMI. I do need to get BB to replace my lamp soon, though. I wonder what the brightness increase will do to my tweaks.

Honestly, I haven't been watching it much lately, since my wife has been confined to our main floor, and we bought a Sony flat panel for the living room on that floor. That is the TV we have been watching all the time now. Come summer, we will probably be retreating to the cooler basement again and watching the Mits again.

Yeah, I had it to a point where the HDMI was watchable if I pumped up all the settings, but the component still looked better using my cable box. Even with all the colors turned up, the picture still seemed flat unless I turned them so far up they would be out of balance. Was it ever confirmed that the Mits does an analog=>digital conversion of the HDMI signal? I noticed that the documentation nowhere claims an "all digital" connection.

The attached block diagram shows the digital to analog conversion. The HDMI signal comes into the HDMI decoder on the signal board, converted to analog and passed to the formatter board, only to be converted back to digital on the DM board.
ARG!! There ought to be a law!

The attached block diagram shows the digital to analog conversion. The HDMI signal comes into the HDMI decoder on the signal board, converted to analog and passed to the formatter board, only to be converted back to digital on the DM board.
ARG!! There ought to be a law!

Anyone know if the current Mits models are still doing this conversion?

I've been using the Omnimount CCH1 for over a year and love it. Works perfect. Here's a link:
http://www.omnimount.com/consumer/product.aspx?ProductId=ad90ae4a-a012-47db-9bdb-1c3318a4fdf9

Amazon sells them for $30.

Will this get in the way when you're trying to remove the screen for cleaning?

RadioShack has the Omnimount for $14.97
http://www.radioshack.com/sm-omnimount-shelf--pi-2111008.html

Wow - how long ago did I post that?? :D

I didn't really find a resolution. I did get an S3 Tivo, and I hooked it up with both HDMI and Component video. I was able to tweak the settings to a point where I was satisfied with the picture on HDMI. I do need to get BB to replace my lamp soon, though. I wonder what the brightness increase will do to my tweaks.


I have an S3 also and have it running through component as my HDMI has always been a problem with this TV in terms of some really bad popping sounds (even after replacing the chassis under warranty. Never did fix this).

I only use the S3 for OTA (no cablecards yet) for HD recording and find that the image is very washed out as compared to just plugging the OTA directly into the TV ant-2 input. I have the contrast cranked compared to other component inputs like my S-97 DVD player. I've tried taking the brightness down but then the blacks all run together in darker scenes. I've assumed this is a TiVo issue since I don't have this issue with other devices. I'm not real pleased with the increased contrast setting as this adds some rainbows.

You've found settings via component that you like with your S3?

I have no problems with HDMI on my 62725 set. I use HDMI with my Pioneer Elite DV59AVI DVD player. My Color is awesome and my sound is very good. I think it might be your Tivo.

Anyone know if the current Mits models are still doing this conversion?
That model is 4 generations ago. I think on the 2nd generation they had full digital path.

I have no problems with HDMI on my 62725 set. I use HDMI with my Pioneer Elite DV59AVI DVD player. My Color is awesome and my sound is very good. I think it might be your Tivo.

I don't think the HDMI problem I have is related to the TiVO. The audio popping I get has been with me since almost day 1 when I got my S97 DVD player. Using HDMI I had bad popping sounds. Under warranty the entire TV chassis was replaced (including the HDMI port and per Mitsu the entire audio/video processing circuitry) and this did not fix the problem. At the time I figured that maybe it was just a compatibility problem between the S97 and the Mitsu. Fast forward a few years and now the TiVo also has this problem so I think it must be the TV somehow. Never have figured it out. One other poster had a similar problem and we traded notes on our setups but neither of us had any good ideas.

The video looks just fine via HDMI but the audio problems are so bad I just can't use the HDMI.

Will this get in the way when you're trying to remove the screen for cleaning?

Yes, but it doesn't attach to the TV. It's easily removed if you need to take the screen off. AFAIK this is the only really workable solution for a center channel speaker with this TV. I don't know what I would have done if I didn't find this shelf!

Hi,

Wondering if someone could help me. I just bought a HD camcorder (Sony HDR HC7) and hooked it up to the front 1394 port (sony calls it iLink). The TV immediately detected the camcorder and model number and added it to the device list. TV remote automatically controlled the playback too. So far so good, but when I go to playback the camera or live feed, the picture is blocky (very digitized). Has anyone had any problems with getting this to work on 1394? The TV plays the camcorders HD footage just fine on one of its component inputs, but those are in the back and I really wanted to use the 1394 connection up front for convience and I'm sure PQ is better too. If I don't get it to work and I have to use a connection in the rear anyway, should I just go and buy an HDMI cable, which the camcorder is also capable of outputting.

Thanks,

I have not used the 1394 connection with a camcorder but I have tried a cable box which had a 1394 connection and the picture looked great.

Our JVC camcorder is not recognized via 1394; to use its 1394 port I hook it up to our DVDR instead. Mitsu state luck will vary in the manual -- not exactly impressive for a major electronics firm, but such is life.

Thanks, at least I know its probably on the TV end and not the new camcorder I just paid for. I went and bought a HDMI cable yesterday at wallmart for $35. Looks pretty good, so I will just use that instead.

All,

It's been awhile since I posted. Glad to see this thread is alive and well. Anyway, I have a 62725, and did a bone-head move while cleaning. I must have rubbed too hard or something, but anwyay, I have a noticiable streak on the screen. I'm not totally sure if it's on the front or back, but I'm thinking I may need to replace the diamondshield. I havn't called Mitsu yet, but I was wondering if anyone had any insights for me. Can you still get the 'trim-kit" if I decide to take off the shield alone. I'm hoping it's only the diamondshield and not the actual screen.

2nd question is, Do you ususally wait until the bulb dies to replace or does it make sense to replace after say 2 years or whatever? I have to say I wish it was a brighter bulb...say 180w as opposed to 120w. My brother-in-law, has a newer model and it's much brighter. (not overly bright..but good for mid to high-light level rooms).

Thanks
Andy

All,

It's been awhile since I posted. Glad to see this thread is alive and well. Anyway, I have a 62725, and did a bone-head move while cleaning. I must have rubbed too hard or something, but anwyay, I have a noticiable streak on the screen. I'm not totally sure if it's on the front or back, but I'm thinking I may need to replace the diamondshield. I havn't called Mitsu yet, but I was wondering if anyone had any insights for me. Can you still get the 'trim-kit" if I decide to take off the shield alone. I'm hoping it's only the diamondshield and not the actual screen.

2nd question is, Do you ususally wait until the bulb dies to replace or does it make sense to replace after say 2 years or whatever? I have to say I wish it was a brighter bulb...say 180w as opposed to 120w. My brother-in-law, has a newer model and it's much brighter. (not overly bright..but good for mid to high-light level rooms).

Thanks
Andy
Sorry I don't have any info on your first question, I don't think Mits still stocks the "trim-kit".
As far as replacing the bulb before it blows, YES definately. I changed mine after about 2 years along with cleaning the mirror and WOW what a difference in PQ. I hadn't realized just how dim my bulb was getting until I put the new one in.

All,

I'm not totally sure if it's on the front or back, but I'm thinking I may need to replace the diamondshield.
Andy


I have not used the shield in years. You do not need the shield unless you have small hands in the household.

It would be nice if Mitsubishi would come out with a brighter bulb setup. My TV is in a bright light room when it is sunny out.

It would be nice if Mitsubishi would come out with a brighter bulb setup. My TV is in a bright light room when it is sunny out.
Yes, this would make a really great TV even better! If anyone is aware of a brighter bulb that will work with these TVs, please chime in.

I have the 52725...

I did a search in this thread and couldn't find anything on my problem...

Anybody found a viable solution in putting a medium to large sized center channel speaker on top of their Mitsu? I've read in another section here someone finding a shelf rack in Lowes but he had a different type of HDTV.

Any input is appreciated, tia.

I made my own shelf and posted about it:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6462801&&#post6462801

Hi all,

I just replaced my lamp, and I mised the message when you turn the TV back on whether you replaced the lamp or not. Does anyone know how to go in and manually re-set the lamp counter?

As a side, I replaced my lamp for the 1st time about 5 months ago with a generic, which just blew up this weekend - 5 months! I picked up an authentic Mits lamp today, and let me tell you - what a difference in the brightness! If not already stated in this thread, do yourselves a favor and steer clear of generic replacements and go with authentic Mits lamps.

BTW, the place where I bought the generic is sending me a free replacement out - but after seeing the mits lamp I think I'll just keep it and have the generic on hand as emergency backup.

Thanks.

just unplug the AC cord

Before I put my stand on Ebay, I thought I'd troll it through this thread.
New condition, no scratches. Shipping will be a chore, but I'm up for it if you are willing to pay the freight.

Paid 500, will take 350 plus shipping FOB 34207
or, pickup near Sarasota Florida

This is such a specialized piece, I think it's more appropriate to offer it here than in the forsale section.

PM me if you're interested

Howdy all,
It's been a while since I've read this thread. I am moving soon and will likely be using the qam tuner without a cable card for some local HD channels from the cable provider (currently I'm just using DirecTV through the HDMI). I was just curious if anyone had problems with the qam tuner with the original firmware. I have never installed any firmware upgrades. I called customer service and they stated the only known problems were with the cable card and that they wouldn't send out a firmware upgrade until I am actually having problems as the update might cause more issues than it solves.

Also, anyone have a PS3 hooked up to this TV? I was just curious if people thought the HDMI or the component inputs looked noticably better or any specific settings that improved the picutre.

Regarding the buld changes. I just checked my bulb life and am at about 3700 hours. Will order a new bulb soon, but am wondering at what point did people start seeing their bulbs blow. I understand the life is about 4k -5K hours so know I am due. Just wondering if I wait until the end of summer I will be sorry. I only average a little less than 120hrs per month of usage...

just unplug the AC cord

Is something wrong with my TV? I've pulled the plug, but when I power it back on I am not getting the message where you're supposed to hit enter about whether you replaced the bulb or not. Since I've had about 5 months on the bulb that shattered, I want to reset the counter with the new bulb I just put in. I know this seems dumb, but any advice would be appreciated. Should I just remove the bulb and put it back in again? Not sure if that's the answer, since I didn't see the message when I just put it in a few days ago.

Thanks.

OK if you ever did a firmware update you will not get that message any more.
To reset your lamp counter you will need to go to menu 2470 then press enter on Initialize.
the bad part of doing that is you will have to reset you net command info.
good luck

great

Is something wrong with my TV? I've pulled the plug, but when I power it back on I am not getting the message where you're supposed to hit enter about whether you replaced the bulb or not. Since I've had about 5 months on the bulb that shattered, I want to reset the counter with the new bulb I just put in. I know this seems dumb, but any advice would be appreciated. Should I just remove the bulb and put it back in again? Not sure if that's the answer, since I didn't see the message when I just put it in a few days ago.

Thanks.

With earlier versions of the firmware, my tv would always display the reset message after first power on after being unplugged. With the latest firmware version this message went away.
I replaced the lamp and was able to reset the lamp hour counter by pressing the 'Enter' button on the remote a few seconds after the first power on after being unplugged. I did this while the screen was still dark. Not certain about the exact timing, some experimentation may be required.

Thanks! Out of curiosity, how did you confirm the lamp counter was reset if the screen was still black? My screen takes about 20 seconds until a picture appears.

For instructions of entering menu 2470, I'm not sure how you do that, or if I even want to. If that's a service menu, it's probably best I stay away :rolleyes:

I would not stay away go for it. In that service menu you will see how many hours are on the set and lamp.

Is anyone with this set using a PS3? I was wondering if anyone had tested out which of the new picture options work best after the new 1.8 firmware.

...the new 1.8 firmware.

It has been a couple years since I have visited this thread as I was one of the early adopters of a 62725. So far so good! I recently cleaned the mirror after a couple years of build-up and it's like a new TV! I went ahead and took some duct tape to opening to hopefully prevent such build-up in the future. Still on the original bulb! (I bought a replacement that's in the closet, so I'm ready!)

I'm sure I am on a very old version of the firmware. Is there a place where we can download the latest firmware? Early on, I remember you could only get it from Mits directly, but I see nothing stopping someone from posting it. :]

Daniel

It has been a couple years since I have visited this thread as I was one of the early adopters of a 62725. So far so good! I recently cleaned the mirror after a couple years of build-up and it's like a new TV! I went ahead and took some duct tape to opening to hopefully prevent such build-up in the future. Still on the original bulb! (I bought a replacement that's in the closet, so I'm ready!)

I'm sure I am on a very old version of the firmware. Is there a place where we can download the latest firmware? Early on, I remember you could only get it from Mits directly, but I see nothing stopping someone from posting it. :]

Daniel

Actually, the 1.8 firmware that was referred to is for the PS3, not the Mits TV. I think the current version of the firmware for these TV's is xxx.5 (or maybe .6, but I think that .6 might be available ONLY if you call Mits with a particular problem).

The 1.8 firmware for the PS3 is a major upgrade - it adds DVD upscaling capability for DVD's. I have a PS3, and I will say that this upgrade has made a nice difference on my 1080p Sony flat panel TV, but I don't have it hooked up to the Mits at this time. It will probably be a month or two before I move the PS3 to the Mits (if I move it at all).

If you want the latest firmware for the Mits, you should be able to call them and tell them that your TV isn't responding correctly to remote commands. This is the problem that I was having when I got an upgrade. I also had problems with digital channels disappearing sometimes. These were all fixed by the current firmware.

If you want the latest firmware for the Mits, you should be able to call them and tell them that your TV isn't responding correctly to remote commands. This is the problem that I was having when I got an upgrade. I also had problems with digital channels disappearing sometimes. These were all fixed by the current firmware.

My bad about getting the firmware's mixed up :] I remember you spiff from way back! I actually followed your instructions/post on my recent mirror cleaning.

Thanks for the tip on the Mits firmware. Just to be a pain, do you happen to have the Mits tech support phone number handy? :]

Thanks!
Daniel

Do you happen to have the Mits tech support phone number handy?

I'll answer my own question:

Mitsubishi Support 800-332-2119
Mitsubishi Parts 800-553-7278

My bad about getting the firmware's mixed up :] I remember you spiff from way back! I actually followed your instructions/post on my recent mirror cleaning.

Thanks for the tip on the Mits firmware. Just to be a pain, do you happen to have the Mits tech support phone number handy? :]

Thanks!
Daniel

Thanks. :-)

I still follow this thread, but I don't watch my Mits very often anymore. We got a Sony 46" XBR2 1080p flat panel that is now upstairs in our living room. The Mits is downstairs in the Family Room, which is where the surround sound system is. I do miss the sound setup, and we will probably be watching TV downstairs where is is cooler this summer, and also now that my wife can climb stairs after her ankle surgery.

I actually don't look forward to using the PS3 on my Mits, though, since the HDMI input has never looked very good in my opinion (it is too "light" and washed out looking). And the Mits obviously isn't a 1080p TV :-) !

To answer your question, I don't have the number handy - I think it is listed in the TV's manual, though.

Hey spiff,
You ought to at least give the PS3 a try. I use HDMI on my Tosh HD-DVD player, and have been quite happy with it. I might just be lucky, though....

Randy

Thanks. :-)

I still follow this thread, but I don't watch my Mits very often anymore. We got a Sony 46" XBR2 1080p flat panel that is now upstairs in our living room. The Mits is downstairs in the Family Room, which is where the surround sound system is. I do miss the sound setup, and we will probably be watching TV downstairs where is is cooler this summer, and also now that my wife can climb stairs after her ankle surgery.

I actually don't look forward to using the PS3 on my Mits, though, since the HDMI input has never looked very good in my opinion (it is too "light" and washed out looking). And the Mits obviously isn't a 1080p TV :-) !

To answer your question, I don't have the number handy - I think it is listed in the TV's manual, though.

My HDMI works perfect!

I still follow this thread, but I don't watch my Mits very often anymore.

My primary TV is still my Mits 62725 and I'm pretty happy with it. I do wish it was 1080p, though. ;] I am waiting on the 65" Sharp LCD to come down to about $3.5K for me to upgrade. Still at about $8k right now. Yeah, I know that will be a year or two, but as long as my Mits holds up, I'm happy. :] At that point, I'll also upgrade my receiver to something with 3-5 HDMI inputs and have my ultimate setup. ;]

For those of you with "good" HDMI inputs, which TV do you have? I have a WD-62525, manufactured in July 2004 (the date is only by memory, but I am about 95% sure)...

I have the 62525 with one HDMI input that had audio static when I started using it. They came and put in a whole new HD board and it's been fine ever since.

I have a WD-52525. Don't know the manufactured date but I bought it in July of 2004. I have always thought I had a 'bad' HDMI input because of the D to A to D conversions. I have had many boxes hooked up to it... comcast cable box, DirecTV Tivo, mulyiple DVD players, and and a few computers. The computers were the only devices that I could get to look good through the HDMI input, everything else looked better through component. I recently got a Verizon Fios cable box and the box looks great through the HDMI input. I found a color space setting in the setup menu, set it for 4:4:4 Y/C, and the color looks great.

I have a WD-52525. Don't know the manufactured date but I bought it in July of 2004. I have always thought I had a 'bad' HDMI input because of the D to A to D conversions. I have had many boxes hooked up to it... comcast cable box, DirecTV Tivo, mulyiple DVD players, and and a few computers. The computers were the only devices that I could get to look good through the HDMI input, everything else looked better through component. I recently got a Verizon Fios cable box and the box looks great through the HDMI input. I found a color space setting in the setup menu, set it for 4:4:4 Y/C, and the color looks great.

I currently have my PC connected to my 62725 via HDMI. I used to have it connected via the VGA input and it worked great! But, since I upgraded to Vista... long story short, I'm using HDMI now. ;]

I have not used any other HDMI source on it. I'm not too happy with the quality of the HDMI input over the normal VGA, but it's okay.

Daniel

I'm using VGA with Vista. You just need to use Powerstrip to get the right resolution.

I'm using VGA with Vista. You just need to use Powerstrip to get the right resolution.

Right, which is what I used to do with XP. But, at least at the time, there was not a version of Powerstrip that worked correctly on Vista. So, I went with HDMI, which is digital, which allowed me to adjust the resolution via the Radeon admin tool.

Daniel

If you want the latest firmware for the Mits, you should be able to call them and tell them that your TV isn't responding correctly to remote commands. This is the problem that I was having when I got an upgrade. I also had problems with digital channels disappearing sometimes. These were all fixed by the current firmware.

So, I called them and told them what you described above and they said there isn't a SW upgrade that will fix those issues and they wouldn't give me a new firmware.

Perhaps I didn't describe them correctly? Could you expand on the issues you were having and what the SW version fixed?

I determined that my current software version is 26 004.03. Is there a place that lists the software versions and the bug fixes?

Thanks!
Daniel

So, I called them and told them what you described above and they said there isn't a SW upgrade that will fix those issues and they wouldn't give me a new firmware.

Perhaps I didn't describe them correctly? Could you expand on the issues you were having and what the SW version fixed?

I determined that my current software version is 26 004.03. Is there a place that lists the software versions and the bug fixes?

Thanks!
Daniel

The remote problem that I had was that I would push buttons on the remote, and nothing would happen on the TV. You could push the volume buttons, the channel up down buttons, and nothing would happen for up to 30 seconds. Then, the TV would suddenly perform all of the commands as if they had been accumulated in a buffer while the TV was busy. I can't recall which version fixed this. I have version 004.05, and I upgraded twice to get to this version.

The loss of digital channels would make it look like you had to re-scan your channels because the digital channels wouldn't tune in. If you reset the TV with the little button on the front panel, the channels would reappear.

Hope this helps.

Dan...

I'll wait until tonight when I'm home, or if a mod posts an "OK". If nobody complains by then, I'll post the "How-To" for all. Fourteen pictures is a lot and while I know everyone would want to see this... I don't want to overstep my bounds. I'd also like to add some commentary in-between each shot explaining what it is you're looking at beyond the actual stuff in the pix.

Mike
This concerns cleaning the inside (mirrors and lenses) of a Mitsubishi WD-65725 and similar models and replacement of the Lamp Assy. In April, you (IronHorse) posted a How-To with pictures.

I was fascinated by the series of pictures and instructions you provided. My TV is a newer model with access ports on the side and lamp access from the rear. Nevertheless, many of us won't get to see what the inside of one of these looks like and others will want to follow your procedures on their own sets. I'd say the procedure would be applicable to all 2005 models and maybe others.

What I have done is to take your posts from page 141 and crop out everything that wasn't from IronHorse. I've packaged all of that into a PDF which is called "Cleaning 65725.pdf"

The file is uploaded to Rapidshare.com and since I maintain storage privileges there for the forseeable future, anyone should have free access to it for a long time.

http://rapidshare.com/files/34522827/Cleaning_65725.pdf.html

Anyone wanting the PDF which includes all the pictures, can click that link or paste the url into their browser. A Rapidshare page may appear and if asked, choose Free. The file is only 690 KB and prints to 23 pages. I just downloaded it and was not asked anything, but I have a Rapidshare "cookie" so I might be treated differently than non-subscribers. The file is, however, freely available to all.

I hope that's OK. If not, PM me and I can kill it.

Thanks for the great tutorial.

Chuck

The remote problem that I had was that I would push buttons on the remote, and nothing would happen on the TV. You could push the volume buttons, the channel up down buttons, and nothing would happen for up to 30 seconds. Then, the TV would suddenly perform all of the commands as if they had been accumulated in a buffer while the TV was busy. I can't recall which version fixed this. I have version 004.05, and I upgraded twice to get to this version.

The loss of digital channels would make it look like you had to re-scan your channels because the digital channels wouldn't tune in. If you reset the TV with the little button on the front panel, the channels would reappear.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the info. That's exactly what I told the guy. Maybe I'll just call back and hope to get another person.

EDIT: I just called back and they are sending me out .06 now! Thanks for the help!

Daniel

My brother has a 65725 and it's about 6 months old. I've read quite a few pages on this site and do not see anything on the issue he is having.

On high contrast images, there is a haze around objects. Baseball players shirts there is almost a ghosting effect. The PS3 main menu is no longer crisp and black, it has a glow around the letters.

The other thing is that it doesn't stay on very long before it gets too hot and turns off. The fans are working and I've used an air can to blow out as much as I could without removing anything.

Any help on either issue would be appreciated!

bookem, check the model number it should be a 62725. no biggie.

if it is only 6 month it is still under mits warranty so he should call mits and complain and get them to send sevice tech out to check it. The 52/62xxx series does have an air filter that needs cleaning periodically, it is on the left side at the bottom if you are looking toward the screen from the front, a couple of phillips head screws holds a plastic slotted cover and the foam filter is behind that, easy to wash it out, dry it and replace.

I wouldn't reccommend blowing air into any of the vents as the 52/62xxx series has an internal mirror that faces up and collects dust on it easily. and needs a cleaning as mentioned often in this thread.

also you should have him get a calibration disc like avia or home theather essentials to calibrate the set as best as possible that might help with the contrast and ghosting.

also check the video settings if the set has lost power it may have gone to full (63 on the scale) contrast setting and needs lowering.

My brother has a 65725 and it's about 6 months old. I've read quite a few pages on this site and do not see anything on the issue he is having.

On high contrast images, there is a haze around objects. Baseball players shirts there is almost a ghosting effect. The PS3 main menu is no longer crisp and black, it has a glow around the letters.

The other thing is that it doesn't stay on very long before it gets too hot and turns off. The fans are working and I've used an air can to blow out as much as I could without removing anything.

Any help on either issue would be appreciated!

I can't find the post where I actually gave pictures, but here is a post describing a problem I had: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4442583&&#post4442583

Turned out it was the cables. They were low quality or something, but once I went with something better, it quickly went away.

However, it could have to do with one of your video settings maxed out. Perhaps brightness or contrast? Not sure if having the TV at max brightness causes the bulb to actually run brighter, and thus hotter?

Daniel

The other thing is that it doesn't stay on very long before it gets too hot and turns off. The fans are working and I've used an air can to blow out as much as I could without removing anything.

If the filter is clean, and the fans actually are working (one may not be; are there any error LEDs up front?) then the temperature sensor may be malfunctioning. Earlier in this thread I posted a description of the part and the part number. This fixed the problem for me and another member. It's apparently not uncommon.

EDIT: From my previous post, this thread (note: anyone that attempts DIY repairs and wrecks their set gets to keep it, standard disclaimers apply):

"If no fan failure is found and no true obstructions exist to air flow, and if you're in the mood to DIY:

Mitsubishi Part 299P285010, "Sensor, Thermal Temp."
Writing on sensor: KLIXON 250V/7A, YS11A70B-012, K4AB.

I'm optimistic this is the solution to the set displaying a yellow error message across the screen, and then shutting down. Note that no LED errors are present; Status and Lamp LEDs are normal (off).

YMMV and don't DIY if there is ANY doubt in your mind about your ability to do this; have someone swing by instead."

I can't find the post where I actually gave pictures, but here is a post describing a problem I had: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4442583&&#post4442583

Turned out it was the cables. They were low quality or something, but once I went with something better, it quickly went away.

However, it could have to do with one of your video settings maxed out. Perhaps brightness or contrast? Not sure if having the TV at max brightness causes the bulb to actually run brighter, and thus hotter?

Daniel

It just started having these issues, everything was great the first 5 months. The cables are fairly thick, and I don't think that would explain the short viewing time due to overheating. All of the settings are at the midpoint.

If the filter is clean, and the fans actually are working (one may not be; are there any error LEDs up front?) then the temperature sensor may be malfunctioning. Earlier in this thread I posted a description of the part and the part number. This fixed the problem for me and another member. It's apparently not uncommon.

EDIT: From my previous post, this thread (note: anyone that attempts DIY repairs and wrecks their set gets to keep it, standard disclaimers apply):

"If no fan failure is found and no true obstructions exist to air flow, and if you're in the mood to DIY:

Mitsubishi Part 299P285010, "Sensor, Thermal Temp."
Writing on sensor: KLIXON 250V/7A, YS11A70B-012, K4AB.

I'm optimistic this is the solution to the set displaying a yellow error message across the screen, and then shutting down. Note that no LED errors are present; Status and Lamp LEDs are normal (off).

YMMV and don't DIY if there is ANY doubt in your mind about your ability to do this; have someone swing by instead."
Since it's under warranty, I'd rather not DIY and BIM :)

Where is the filter? I tried to find it but it wasn't in the manual and I couldn't see one in the tv.

Since it's under warranty, I'd rather not DIY and BIM :)

Where is the filter? I tried to find it but it wasn't in the manual and I couldn't see one in the tv.

Assuming nothing has changed, the filter is behind a screw-in panel on the lower left side of the TV. Not the back, but the side. The panel is about the size of a postcard and is held by two screws. Turn the TV off, remove the filter, clean up, replace, done. The manual says twice-ish a year but I live in a high dust, multi pet home so I clean mine more frequently.

Assuming nothing has changed, the filter is behind a screw-in panel on the lower left side of the TV. Not the back, but the side. The panel is about the size of a postcard and is held by two screws. Turn the TV off, remove the filter, clean up, replace, done. The manual says twice-ish a year but I live in a high dust, multi pet home so I clean mine more frequently.

Since the set is just 6 months old, I wonder if maybe the model number posted was incorrect, and we might be talking about a newer set than our series. It would have to have been sitting around for quite awhile to be sold new 6 months ago. Not impossible, but not that likely....just a thought....

Randy

I did a search and couldn't find anything so please bear with me. I have a WD62527 (manf. Oct. 2005) and it won't power up. :confused: When I try to power up the unit, you can hear the fan turn on then shut off in 2 secs. Then the Lamp and Status lights will blink simultaneously. The Lamp LED will continuously blink green and the Status LED will continuously blink Yellow.

I reset the unit and tried again, same results. The bulb should still be good, hardly use the TV. Has this happen to anyone before or can someone point be to the right direction.

Thank you everyone!

I did a search and couldn't find anything so please bear with me. I have a WD62527 (manf. Oct. 2005) and it won't power up. :confused: When I try to power up the unit, you can hear the fan turn on then shut off in 2 secs. Then the Lamp and Status lights will blink simultaneously. The Lamp LED will continuously blink green and the Status LED will continuously blink Yellow.

I reset the unit and tried again, same results. The bulb should still be good, hardly use the TV. Has this happen to anyone before or can someone point be to the right direction.

Thank you everyone!
Have you checked the air filter cover?

Well, after nearly 3 years, I finally made the effort to call BB and tell them that my Lamp LED was on, and that the brightness has deteriorated. They just replaced the lamp for me (under the extended warranty), and it does appear to have gotten brighter. They used a Mitsubishi bulb, so I felt pretty good about that.

I think it had about 5000-6000 hours on it - I can't believe it lasted as long as it did!

Mines also approaching 3 years in September and I don't know the actual number of hours of the bulb because it got reset when they replaced the DM board because of the crackling noises it was making when using HDMI. I guess I'm going to have to buy a bulb pretty soon?

Hey has anyone noticed any whining in either one of the main fans or the color wheel? Mine does that every now and then for a minute or two, then goes away.

-John

Mines also approaching 3 years in September and I don't know the actual number of hours of the bulb because it got reset when they replaced the DM board because of the crackling noises it was making when using HDMI. I guess I'm going to have to buy a bulb pretty soon?

Mine wasn't really that bad. I just thought my extended warranty was expiring in August, and I wanted to make sure I got a bulb replacement under warranty. I also happened to have a vacation day scheduled, so I would be home for the service call. This TV hasn't gotten much use over the past 6 months, since my wife wasn't able to climb and descend the stairs to the basement. Summer is back, so we will be watching TV more often now on the Mits.

I just checked, and it was at about 5550 hours when it was replaced. I asked about keeping the old bulb as an emergency backup, but he said there was a core charge on the bulb, so I couldn't keep it.

I have a 62725.

I would like to buy a second generation HD-DVD player. I don't have a receiver or pre/pro yet so will be connecting it directly to TV.

Those of you that have a HD player have you had any difficulties with either the HDMI or DVI connections?

My attention is most focused right now on the Toshiba XA2 model - primarily because of the types of movies I like to watch most.

If anyone has an XA2 how do you have yours hooked up?

TIA.

Hi Lonny,
Some people have reported issues with the picture via HDMI, but I use it with my 1st Gen. Toshiba A1 with no problems on my 62725 and the PQ is fine. I know that isn't the exact model you asked about, but I thought I'd throw it out there in case you don't get any other replies...

Good luck!
Randy

I have no Problems with My 62725 HDMI. I say go for it. I do like the pitcher of HD-DVD better than Blue ray.

I have a 62725.

I would like to buy a second generation HD-DVD player. I don't have a receiver or pre/pro yet so will be connecting it directly to TV.

Those of you that have a HD player have you had any difficulties with either the HDMI or DVI connections?

My attention is most focused right now on the Toshiba XA2 model - primarily because of the types of movies I like to watch most.

If anyone has an XA2 how do you have yours hooked up?

TIA.
The only difference between component and HDMI on this model is number of cables/connections.

The only difference between component and HDMI on this model is number of cables/connections.

Can component be upscaled?

Component Can Be Upscaled. But To Get The Best Out Of It Use A Very High Guilty Cables Set They Do Help Make A Big Difference!!

Hdmi Is Sapos To Be Better Than Component But I Have Seen Hdmi Blow Out Component Hook Ups In Pitcher Guilty. But On The Same Set And Hdmi Device If You Use A High Guilty Component Cables It Looks Just As Good As Hdmi. I Have Ran That Test On Many Customers Tvs !!!!
I Think The Big Deal About Hdmi Is That You Only Need One Cable Instead Of Four. It Is Supposes To Give A Straight Digital Fed To Your Set But That Is Not All Ways True. The Only Straight Digital Fed That Goes Right To You Tv Set With Out Being Compress Is A Antenna To Get Over The Air Hd And Firewire (ieee1394).
All So It Is Not Backwards Compatible Like Component Of Firewair (ieee1394) Cables. So You Can Not Record With It To A Vcr Or A Dvd Burner
Just My Thought
Daniel

The only difference between component and HDMI on this model is number of cables/connections.
I think what he means to say is that on that model the HDMI is converted to analog so there would be no noticable improvement in PQ.

I think what he means to say is that on that model the HDMI is converted to analog so there would be no noticable improvement in PQ.

Ahh, I see. Would that also be the case for the DVI input?

There is no separate DVI input on the XX725 set. I'd avoid the HDMI input if you can. Besides getting converted to analog inside the set, the picture levels are lower than with the same signal on the component inputs.

There is no separate DVI input on the XX725 set. I'd avoid the HDMI input if you can. Besides getting converted to analog inside the set, the picture levels are lower than with the same signal on the component inputs.

I disagree, with my 62525 I notice a slightly better picture using HDMI than with component but I guess it's all in the eye of the beholder...

I have an 8800GTS running under Vista Home Premium 32 bit edition. I have been unable to get the computer to recognize the 62725.
Has anyone been able to do this?
What driver?
Thanks

The HDMI on XX725 sets do not get converted to analog. They are Digital. I have found a lot of customers that complain about poor HDMI pitcher quality are using poor quality HDMI cables and that goes with most sets not just with this one.
My HDMI cable cost me $259.00 cost for a three meter. I fist had a $59.00 cable and it looked OK but not what I thought. So I got the Boss to order me a High quality cable from Tributary and it maid all the deference. So we only stock high end cables now.
I have all so seen poor Cable boxes from cable companies like Comcast that just do not give a good Pitcher over HDMI. I have spoke with reps. at Scientific Atlanta about poor pitcher with HD pitchers over HDMI from Comcast. I have been told that the Boxes go to Comcast with all HD ports working like HDMI, IEEE1394, DVI, and Component. But Comcast deactivate some and reprogram the boxes and it just hurts the over all Pitcher Quality. Comcast has said to many of my Customers that you have to pay more to have them turn on to get the full power path with HDMI, IEEE1394, and DVI..
So you can not all ways blame the TV set.
By the way I have seen many HDMI DVD players that just play like crap through HDMI I all ways bring a Pioneer Elite DV59AVI DVD Player for testing and A Very good HDMI Cable.
I hope this helps some of you. I work on many kinds of HD Sets DVD players and and many People complain about HDMI it not just this set. it is on all of them. We all spend good money on are set ups but most of US Cheap out on cables and that is one of the Biggest No No in my Book
One more thing Stop Buying all those cheap DVD players at Walmart!!!! I have not seen one with Good HDMI out put. You know who you are LOL!!!
Daniel

I have an 8800GTS running under Vista Home Premium 32 bit edition. I have been unable to get the computer to recognize the 62725.
Has anyone been able to do this?
What driver?
Thanks
Many people are having this kind of problems with Vista. We have been told it a glitch with in Vista. :eek: Sorry to tell you. keep a look out for a update on there web site.
Daniel

The HDMI on XX725 sets do not get converted to analog.


Yes it does. Block diagrams of the pipeline from Mitsubishi that have been shown on this site clearly show this.


They are Digital. I have found a lot of customers that complain about poor HDMI pitcher quality are using poor quality HDMI cables and that goes with most sets not just with this one.

My HDMI cable cost me $259.00 cost for a three meter. I fist had a $59.00 cable and it looked OK but not what I thought. So I got the Boss to order me a High quality cable from Tributary and it maid all the deference. So we only stock high end cables now.


The cable quality shouldn't matter with HDMI. HDMI transmissions are digital. They are either high or low, with no inbetween. A poor quality cable would manifest itself as video with individual pixels sparkling. You won't get traditional interference like you will with analog cables. And even so, it would be very difficult to get interference. HDMI uses differential pairs to transmit video. That means that interference hits the + and - lines identically. This would not affect video because the receiver reads the difference between the + and - lines. A positive coupling affect on the wires would move the + and - wires by the same amount, leaving the differential voltage the same.

I am saying this as an electrical engineer that works with circuits (MUCH SMALLER circuits) that do suffer from digital electrical interference.

I have an 8800GTS running under Vista Home Premium 32 bit edition. I have been unable to get the computer to recognize the 62725.
Has anyone been able to do this?
What driver?
Thanks

VGA will give you the best video on this TV. I am using Vista. You have to use powerstrip ( http://entechtaiwan.com/util/ps.shtm )to define a 720p video mode. After you do that, it works great.

I am using the latest NVidia beta driver (June) with my 6600GT.

Yes it does. Block diagrams of the pipeline from Mitsubishi that have been shown on this site clearly show this.

At least 1 person knows what they are talking about.

Yes it does. Block diagrams of the pipeline from Mitsubishi that have been shown on this site clearly show this.



The cable quality shouldn't matter with HDMI. HDMI transmissions are digital. They are either high or low, with no inbetween. A poor quality cable would manifest itself as video with individual pixels sparkling. You won't get traditional interference like you will with analog cables. And even so, it would be very difficult to get interference. HDMI uses differential pairs to transmit video. That means that interference hits the + and - lines identically. This would not affect video because the receiver reads the difference between the + and - lines. A positive coupling affect on the wires would move the + and - wires by the same amount, leaving the differential voltage the same.

I am saying this as an electrical engineer that works with circuits (MUCH SMALLER circuits) that do suffer from digital electrical interference.

Couldn't agree more...thanks for that post!

OK OK if cable guilty dose not matter then why is it if I swap out a low grade cable from a customers set up you can see a big improvement in color?
All I can go by is what I and the customer see when I service there set ups.
As of last night Mitsubishi Rep told me back at the shop is the HDMI is a straight Digital feed.

OK OK if cable guilty dose not matter then why is it if I swap out a low grade cable from a customers set up you can see a big improvement in color?


People like to justify their huge cable investment and they make themselves see a difference. Trust me, it doesn't make a difference any more than the price of a compact flash card reader would affect the quality of your digital photographs.

Can you see someone saying "OMG, I need a $300 compact flash card reader so I get better color in my digital photos!" Maybe Monster can move into that market next. USB uses differential signaling to transmit data, just like HDMI does.


All I can go by is what I and the customer see when I service there set ups.
As of last night Mitsubishi Rep told me back at the shop is the HDMI is a straight Digital feed.

Here is that block diagram.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10452473&&#post10452473

Note that the HDMI input eventually has to go through the analog to digital converters, just like the component inputs do. If it was already digital, it wouldn't have to go through an A to D converter. In fact, you can see that the HDMI signal is converted into Pb, Y and Pr (component signals) immediately by the IC2000 HDMI Decoder. Then that video goes through the same video pipeline as all of the other component video.

Note that VGA skips most of the video pipeline. It gets converted directly into digital and only hits 3 pipeline stages before getting displayed. That is why you can't adjust the sharpness of the VGA. And it is why the color adjustments don't affect VGA. And it is why it has the best picture quality of any input on this TV.

Your TV has a PICTURE.
Your Kool-Aid pours from a PITCHER.

:rolleyes:

Good stuff Shape, nice post.


As of last night Mitsubishi Rep told me back at the shop is the HDMI is a straight Digital feed.

The rep probably was confused about which models. The newer models have digital striaght to the video processor.

OK OK if cable guilty dose not matter then why is it if I swap out a low grade cable from a customers set up you can see a big improvement in color?
All I can go by is what I and the customer see when I service there set ups.
Popular mechanics mentions this: http://www.popularmechanics.com/technology/how_to/4216631.html?page=8

this is good info, Thanks you . But I still can not say why when I replace them to better cables there is a good difference in pitcher quality. I have been doing a lot of component cable up grade to HDMI on direct TV.?

this is good info, Thanks you . But I still can not say why when I replace them to better cables there is a good difference in pitcher quality. I have been doing a lot of component cable up grade to HDMI on direct TV.?

If you are swapping component cable for BETTER component cable, or component for HDMI, then I could see the possibility of improved picture quality. You made it sound like you were swapping HDMI cables for high end HDMI cables and seeing improvement - this does NOT make sense from a digital perspective.

My Bad I Should have mad it more clear.
But still very good info.
I can not wait to talk to my Mitsubishi rep. about HDMI not being digital because they state in the info brochure when they came out. That is one reason I got my WD-62725 set. Plus I LOVE my Net-Command!!!!!
Daniel

My lamp light has finally come on after over 5000 hours. I purchased an extended warranty when I got my TV from Tweeter, but now Tweeter has closed down all their California stores. Does anyone have a number handy for warranty service?

Thanks in advance!

I got a used 62725 from my colleague at work; and began reading this thread. I have read every page, and almost every line.

There has been a lot of good information; and a lot of re-hashing of the same information; but I have already taken my set apart and cleaned the mirrors, and gotten the latest firmware and flashed the memory.

I have learned a lot about the 2-4-7-0 menu, and can tell that my bulb appears to have been replaced about 500 hours of used ago.

My question to you guys, and I feel like I should know a lot of you already from your posts is this: "How can I learn to utilize the service menu 2-4-5-7?"

I've read a couple of posts talking about a service manual, can I buy one, or download a PDF?

I sincerely appreciate everyone's time in creating this thread.

Jim

I've read a couple of posts talking about a service manual, can I buy one, or download a PDF?
You can buy it from Mitsubishi. They sell it on CD. You can just call their parts warehouse and buy it...
enjoy.

I found this doing a google search: http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/j/i/18317

I got a used 62725 from my colleague at work; and began reading this thread. I have read every page, and almost every line.

There has been a lot of good information; and a lot of re-hashing of the same information; but I have already taken my set apart and cleaned the mirrors, and gotten the latest firmware and flashed the memory.

I have learned a lot about the 2-4-7-0 menu, and can tell that my bulb appears to have been replaced about 500 hours of used ago.

My question to you guys, and I feel like I should know a lot of you already from your posts is this: "How can I learn to utilize the service menu 2-4-5-7?"

I've read a couple of posts talking about a service manual, can I buy one, or download a PDF?

I sincerely appreciate everyone's time in creating this thread.

Jim

Just a note of warning - unless your coworker confirms that the bulb was changed 500 hours ago, that 2470 menu doesn't really confirm that the lamp was replaced. It could have been a situation where the TV was disconnected from AC power, and when reconnected, someone incorrectly answered the "Did you replace the lamp?" question. My wife did this by accident a couple of months after we got the TV because she wasn't sure what the "Cancel" button was.

I'm sure that you're giving me good advice not to believe that the bulb was really replaced; and I guess I'll find out soon, because the total hours on the set are over 5100. I suspect that I'll be buying a bulb before too long, but I do get lucky once in awhile.

Thanks for the warning!

Excellent, thanks TrapperJohn; I'll check it out.

My lamp light has finally come on after over 5000 hours. I purchased an extended warranty when I got my TV from Tweeter, but now Tweeter has closed down all their California stores. Does anyone have a number handy for warranty service?

Thanks in advance!
Are you sure your extended warranty included the bulb? Many of the plans are for "unexpected" breakdowns only and do not cover the bulb (they consider the bulb a consumable item like wiper blades or an oil change on a car).

I purchased a plan through Warrentech (RepairMaster) and was provided with an 800 number at the time of purchase.

G

Are you sure your extended warranty included the bulb? Many of the plans are for "unexpected" breakdowns only and do not cover the bulb (they consider the bulb a consumable item like wiper blades or an oil change on a car).

I purchased a plan through Warrentech (RepairMaster) and was provided with an 800 number at the time of purchase.

G

My parents bought the extended warranty for their 52725 (Warrentech) and it includes 2 bulb replacements...the first bulb was going out after a year and they got a new bulb sent to them with little hassle...other than the fact that it took 12 days to get the bulb.

p.s. Dad has since decided he isn't a fan of DLP anymore due to bulb replacements..he has seen newer flat panels and now wants to retire the DLP for an LCD flat panel...oh well..he enjoyed it while he had it (almost 2+ years now). :)

Warrantech must have multiple plans available. Mine doesn't include bulb replacement. And the one free 'maintenance visit' left a bunch to be desired. The good news is that I haven't needed them for anything big... :)

Randy-

[QUOTE=trapperjohnMD]You can buy it from Mitsubishi. They sell it on CD. You can just call their parts warehouse and buy it...
enjoy.


I just ordered the "service manual" CD ... I can't wait to learn more about this gadget. I can tell there are a number of "technogeeks" here beside myself; so again, I thank all who have contributed to this "new adventure".

Jim

I've started to have a problem with my TV and I don't know what it is. My wife says she'll be watching, then turn the TV off. When she goes back to turn it on, it's in sorta PIP mode. All attempts to get it off this mode, don't work. The only thing that works is to hit the reset button on the front of the TV. Anyone ever seen this before?

I've started to have a problem with my TV and I don't know what it is. My wife says she'll be watching, then turn the TV off. When she goes back to turn it on, it's in sorta PIP mode. All attempts to get it off this mode, don't work. The only thing that works is to hit the reset button on the front of the TV. Anyone ever seen this before?
NO.
Sounds interesting though. Any chance you could post some pictures?

NO.
Sounds interesting though. Any chance you could post some pictures?

I'll see if I can. I had my wife unplug it and then plug it back in. It seemed to clear. I'll play with it some this weekend to see if I can reproduce the problem.

Are you sure your extended warranty included the bulb? Many of the plans are for "unexpected" breakdowns only and do not cover the bulb (they consider the bulb a consumable item like wiper blades or an oil change on a car).

I purchased a plan through Warrentech (RepairMaster) and was provided with an 800 number at the time of purchase.

G

Yes, it includes 1 bulb replacement. I finally tracked down a good # (I'm in the process of moving and everything is boxed up) - 1-800-587-6485 and got a new bulb ordered. It should be at my new house in 7-10 days.

I finally found this great thread and will be getting intimate with my Mits very soon. Question though - should warrantech be responsible for cleaning the dust out of my set? If so why? They did it one time and now they want me to pay.

I finally found this great thread and will be getting intimate with my Mits very soon. Question though - should warrantech be responsible for cleaning the dust out of my set? If so why? They did it one time and now they want me to pay.

If your warranty is like mine, you are supposed to get one 'maintenance' visit for free over the term of the agreement. You did better than me if you got them to clean your set during that visit...the guy that came to my place, while very nice, was more or less worthless. He said it was outside the scope of the visit to open up the set to do the cleaning. He more or less came out, took a look and poked around a little, and told me it had a very good picture. I'm still a little bitter over that deal.....

Randy

I've been a WD-62525 owner for almost 3 yrs and my tv has stopped working -- the red lamp indicator had lit but replacing the lamp bulb didn't remove the error. UMD_terp had this problem, narrowed it down to his ballast card (based on a constant 5V LAMPEN signal but no ballast attempt to light the lamp), and replaced it with success.

After some searching, I found a post that provided some tech-provided info: "check pin 5 (the orange lead) of J14... should get 5V and then drop. A constant 5V means bad ballast, and anything else -- especially a drop to 0V means a bad light engine".

This scenario is closer to what I saw. The pin described above is LAMPEN which I monitored during startup. The sequence of events observed was:

1. Hit power button on remote -- LAMPEN jumps to 3.4 V
2. Observed the EPCOS surge arrester on the ballast to spark-over
3. Immediately, the voltage dropped to about 0.4 V for a few seconds
4. Finally, the voltage returned to about 3.1 V for about 45-60 seconds.
5. Last, the tv shuts-down (soon after the surge arrester sparks-over a 2nd time) and the red Lamp LED lights up.

I'd be interested in whether anyone else has experienced a similar problem & might have any ideas on how to troubleshoot this.

Any insights would be greatly appreciated.

I believe I've pin-pointed the root cause of my problem and wanted to document it in case anyone else has a similar issue.

What caused all the observables in my previous post was a problematic 5V supply. I checked the 5V line that runs from the power board to the light engine & it was only 3.5V. I then opened up the chassis and measured a test pin on the power board after disconnecting the 5V load & still had only 3.5V (confirming that there wasn't a down-circuit short pulling down the rail). So I cut the two 5V wires running to the light engine & connected it to an 5V pin of a MOLEX from my computer's power supply -- and viola, the tv started up smoothly.

The only way I know to fix the power board is to replace the whole electrical chassis -- which would be prohibitively expensive (and I'd have to hire someone to do it since Mitsubishi won't sell parts to customers). So I'm thinking of just connecting an external 5V supply. I could buy a high quality AC-DC wall adapter that does 20W for $30 or I could buy an ATX computer power supply for $25 that would provide up to 60W.

My main questions at this point is, would 20W be enough? (it generally takes 20-30W to power a motherboard) And would I need to switch off my external supply whenever the tv is off? (i.e., could it harm the TV if there's a persistent 5V supply running to the light engine when everything else is powered down?)

Anyway, I was glad to see that substituting the 5V supply solves the problem. I paid $4000 for this TV about 3 yrs ago -- I didn't want to pour another $1500 into it. Buying a $200 bulb was enough!

[post-note: I actually tried using a modified wall adapter & the tv wouldn't start. So if anyone is unable to fix their power PCB and needs to use an external supply, I recommend using a computer power supply. Not sure why the wall wart didn't work. ]

I've been battling this issue for about a month or more. My wd62525 failed on me about 90 days AFTER buying the $250 bulb! :mad: After a service call from a tech, they did these tests you describe, and determined it was a light engine that needed to be replaced.

We agreed on a price, and proceeded. Today I got the call that my set is ready, will be here tomorrow, but I was informed the light engine was NOT replaced. Instead a IC9A20 was replaced. ONLY 1 CHIP. When they tested my unit, they test the orange lead of J14, and got several voltage drops... had I seen your post BEFORE they picked the set up (the end of June) I would have tried your suggestion of alternate +5v supply to that line...

If you can isolate where IC9A20 is, that might be your culprit?

PLEASE POST PICTURES AND YOUR PROGRESS!

I've been battling this issue for about a month or more. My wd62525 failed on me about 90 days AFTER buying the $250 bulb! :mad: After a service call from a tech, they did these tests you describe, and determined it was a light engine that needed to be replaced.

We agreed on a price, and proceeded. Today I got the call that my set is ready, will be here tomorrow, but I was informed the light engine was NOT replaced. Instead a IC9A20 was replaced. ONLY 1 CHIP. When they tested my unit, they test the orange lead of J14, and got several voltage drops... had I seen your post BEFORE they picked the set up (the end of June) I would have tried your suggestion of alternate +5v supply to that line...

If you can isolate where IC9A20 is, that might be your culprit?

PLEASE POST PICTURES AND YOUR PROGRESS!

Here is a link to what IC9A20 is (it's a voltage regulator):
http://www.profusionplc.com/cgi-bin/gex/pcatdtl?ipartno=NJM431L

EDIT: this is a better link (it isn't clear what type package this part is in the TV)..
http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=513-NJM431L

The description in the Mits service manual lists the description as: NJM431L
(It is also listed in boldface, meaning that is a safety critical part).

I am still looking through the block diagrams to see where it is...

Hopefully we might be able to isolate this problem, and save someone some money in the future. I'm still going to have to pay the same labor charge regardless if they replaced the entire light engine or the 50¢ ic part :mad:

I guess so long as my tv comes back in working condition - I'll be happy.

Hopefully we might be able to isolate this problem, and save someone some money in the future. I'm still going to have to pay the same labor charge regardless if they replaced the entire light engine or the 50¢ ic part :mad:

I guess so long as my tv comes back in working condition - I'll be happy.

I think someone will have to look at their TV to find it. It doesn't seem to show up in the block diagrams, but I assume that it is on one of the "PWB-Power" boards...

I'm probably going to stick with the cheap wall AC-DC adapter solution (I still need to measure the current draw and make sure it doesn't take too much power). If anyone else pursues the route of testing the IC9A20, I'd be interested in hear how it works out.

[EDIT: I later measured the current and determined it to be ~0.46 amps.]

Hey, p. 56 of the v21 service manual indicates the IC9A20 part is a "STR-G6623". It indicates IC9A21 to be NJM431L -- were you reading a html conversion of the document that may have offset the rows?

If I google the STR-G6623, one vendor cross-references the part to a "X-I2BT066230", which appears to be a $40 hybrid (for the uninitiated, a hybrid is a packaged part containing a "mini-circuit" of several microcircuit die). Searching on IC9A20 indicates the part-type is a standby regulator -- so the part appears to be a voltage regulator hybrid. If my research is accurate, this doesn't appear to be a nickel & dime part, but it's still much cheaper than replacing a board.

Since I already put the electrical chassis back into the tv, I'm probably going to stick with the cheap wall AC-DC adapter solution (I still need to measure the current draw and make sure it doesn't take too much power). If anyone else pursues the route of testing the IC9A20, I'd be interested in hear how it works out.

Hmmm.

I am looking at page 32 of the v26 (not v21) service manual (from a PDF file). Which models does your manual say it covers?

Here is a screen grab:

I have a picture of the power control PCB available at the following website:

http://www.sarahclymer.com/tv005new.jpg

I have a picture of the PCB available at the following website:

http://www.sarahclymer.com/tv005new.jpg

Is this one from your TV?

I see IC9A20 on the left of the image, but it is hard to see where it is. Is it the black component at the 4 oclock position from the actual large label (the black one with the orange part right above it)?

Also, it is just a mark, or are those two caps immediately to the right of the IC9A20 label showing signs of swelling/leaking out the their tops?

Hey, p. 56 of the v21 service manual indicates the IC9A20 part is a "STR-G6623". It indicates IC9A21 to be NJM431L -- were you reading a html conversion of the document that may have offset the rows?

If I google the STR-G6623, one vendor cross-references the part to a "X-I2BT066230", which appears to be a $40 hybrid (for the uninitiated, a hybrid is a packaged part containing a "mini-circuit" of several microcircuit die). Searching on IC9A20 indicates the part-type is a standby regulator -- so the part appears to be a voltage regulator hybrid. If my research is accurate, this doesn't appear to be a nickel & dime part, but it's still much cheaper than replacing a board.

Since I already put the electrical chassis back into the tv, I'm probably going to stick with the cheap wall AC-DC adapter solution (I still need to measure the current draw and make sure it doesn't take too much power). If anyone else pursues the route of testing the IC9A20, I'd be interested in hear how it works out.

Please, just fix it right and get the part. It can be found for under $5. Try B&D or TriTronics.

When you need parts check this listing
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/manufacturer-vendor-reference-information/4396-parts-distributors.html

While it may not be your problem, I would recommend anyone who has a problem with this series of sets check all of the boards for swollen caps. I just completed a repair that had swollen caps on four boards. All were the same or similar to the Jamicon caps in the previous series of sets that have had swollen caps in the DM.

You're right, it is a NJM431L -- an adjustable voltage reg that can be bought for cheap.

> Is this one from your TV?

The previous pic is of my tv (62525). It does look like those two caps are swollen, and the 4 o'clock part certainly looks like a regulator IC.

It's too bad the block diagram on p. 35 doesn't show the IC9A20. It does show an IC9A11 5V reg next to a block titled "5V" which then goes to the PA1 & PA2 (which are the main two 5V lines). So I wonder if the IC9A20 fits in that flow. I checked the 3.3V, 12V, and 340V lines --- all were nominal.

Since the part is cheap, I'll probably replace the 2 caps and IC and see what happens.

Thanks for the part C/R.

Do you have access to an oscilloscope? If so, it might not be a bad idea to look at that 5V output and see if it is a good DC voltage, or if it has an AC component to it. If those caps are bad, and they should be filtering the 5V signal, you might be getting ripple in the 5V line. (Maybe the caps are the only thing that is bad)...

There aren't any components on the back of that board, are there? I still find the labeling on the board to be a bit odd (it isn't obvious which component that IC9A20 is referring to)...

noplasma,
From your photo it is obvious you need to replace those 2 caps.

I also have a WD62525 (3 years old) that has developed this same problem.
I 1st thought it was the lamp and ordered a new one from mitsu. When that didn't solve my problem i called local mitsu authorized service tech he came out and told me that I must have received a defective bulb after he tried replacing ballast and a heat sensor.
So, I ordered another lamp and of course I still have the same problem and Mitsubishi is trying to tell me that I will be charged a 15% restocking Fee on the lamp that i want to return per the service tech's recommendation.
At least thanks to you guys I now have something that the service tech can checkout.

I also have a WD62525 (3 years old) that has developed this same problem.
I 1st thought it was the lamp and ordered a new one from mitsu. When that didn't solve my problem i called local mitsu authorized service tech he came out and told me that I must have received a defective bulb after he tried replacing ballast and a heat sensor.
So, I ordered another lamp and of course I still have the same problem and Mitsubishi is trying to tell me that I will be charged a 15% restocking Fee on the lamp that i want to return per the service tech's recommendation.
At least thanks to you guys I now have something that the service tech can checkout.
Has the tech ever heard of "troubleshooting"? He may want to try that instead of replacing random parts.

spiff72,

Does your v26 manual include descriptions for the resistor references (R9A34, R9A33, etc)? I'd like to see what that adjustable voltage regulator is supposed to have as its output. I measured 10.5 V at the cathode (terminal 3), 2.4 V at Ref (terminal 1), and 1.5 V at the anode (terminal 2). I need to recheck that last measurement though as it was hard to get to that middle pin.

Here's a closeup of the relevant section of the board:

http://www.sarahclymer.com/tv020.jpg

Do the three digit numbers on the resistors indicate resistor values in a similar manner as the color scheme?

spiff72,

Does your v26 manual include descriptions for the resistor references (R9A34, R9A33, etc)? I'd like to see what that adjustable voltage regulator is supposed to have as its output. I measured 10.5 V at the cathode (terminal 3), 2.4 V at Ref (terminal 1), and 1.5 V at the anode (terminal 2). I need to recheck that last measurement though as it was hard to get to that middle pin.

Here's a closeup of the relevant section of the board:

http://www.sarahclymer.com/tv020.jpg

Do the three digit numbers on the resistors indicate resistor values in a similar manner as the color scheme?

You have a PM...

Well, the part at 7 o'clock from the IC9A20 is a PC9A10 which is an optocoupler (ON3131). It's difficult to reverse-engineer a schematic from the board picture, but my calculations indicate the IC9A20 output should be ~3V. Nevertheless, since it feeds an isolator, the primary function is to provide signal current. If my Vout measurement was accurate, it may not be putting enough current into the LED side of the optocoupler.

Wikipedia has an interesting article on faulty caps (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague), especially look at the paragraph titled "Failure Analysis". It appears a bad cap can overstress an adjacent regulator.

The circuit board is attached to a frame by three plastic spearheads which I seem to be unable to collapse in order to feed back through their holes. I don't want to break them off -- does anyone know the proper procedure for removing the PCB off of them?

[post-note: I was able to remove the board after a little more effort -- you just need to squeeze the plastic heads on the narrow side while applying slight pressure on the board upwards. I had been squeezing the wrong side of the plastic post head.]

spiff72,

Does your v26 manual include descriptions for the resistor references (R9A34, R9A33, etc)? I'd like to see what that adjustable voltage regulator is supposed to have as its output. I measured 10.5 V at the cathode (terminal 3), 2.4 V at Ref (terminal 1), and 1.5 V at the anode (terminal 2). I need to recheck that last measurement though as it was hard to get to that middle pin.

Here's a closeup of the relevant section of the board:

http://www.sarahclymer.com/tv020.jpg

Do the three digit numbers on the resistors indicate resistor values in a similar manner as the color scheme?
C9A47 is broken!

The measurement at the Anode should be 0V (not 1.5V), it is ground.

I have attached a part of a schematic from an earlier Mits TV. The circuit looks basically the same so maybe it can give you some idea.
Looks like Mits stopped putting voltage measurements on the maps.

I measured the capacitances on those swollen caps -- I got 44 uF & 200 uf (part rating is 3300 uF). So the ripple filtering had ~250 uF instead of the expected 6600 uF -- a greater than 20x increase in dv/dt can't be a good thing...

Are you saying that AFTER replacing those 2 caps that the TV is still not working?

Are you saying that AFTER replacing those 2 caps that the TV is still not working?

I haven't made any repairs yet -- new parts have been ordered and are on the way.

http://www.sarahclymer.com/tv025.jpg

You do know C9A47 is NOT THROUGH?
I don't know if you did that purposely for some current measurement, or if for some odd reason you haven't spotted it yet.

Regulators are common failures in electronic circuits. I would certainly suspect it, and they are also cheap to replace. You may as well go down to the electronic depot and pick one up and replace it at the same time as those caps.

You do know C9A47 is NOT THROUGH?
I don't know if you did that purposely for some current measurement, or if for some odd reason you haven't spotted it yet.

Regulators are common failures in electronic circuits. I would certainly suspect it, and they are also cheap to replace. You may as well go down to the electronic depot and pick one up and replace it at the same time as those caps.

Oh wow, I couldn't find C9A47 on my photo when you first mentioned it, but now I see it. It definitely has a disconnected lead. Thanks, I'll be sure to reattach that. I swear I didn't do that!

My plan now is:

1. replace caps, reattach C9A47 lead
2. If tv still doesn't work, check 5V regulator (IC9A11)
3. If IC9A11 looks good, then replace IC9A20
4. If tv still doesn't work, go with external 5V supply approach.

measuring capacitance when the cap is soldered to the board is tough... you will not get an accurate reading. But even still, replace the caps that are obviously leaking.

Leaking caps can also corrode the board underneath. Look for traces that have been cut by the leaking caps and repair them with a jumper. Oddly enough, older Mitsubishi Eclipses also have trouble with leaking caps causing destruction in their engine computers.

measuring capacitance when the cap is soldered to the board is tough... you will not get an accurate reading. But even still, replace the caps that are obviously leaking.

Yeah, I took the previously mentioned measurements (44 and 200 uF) after removing the caps from the board. That's a long ways from the rated 3300 uF.

These caps are not generally leaking electolyte like those on the old CRT based RPTVs of the early 1990s. Every one on the DM boards that I have seen have been swollen but intact, with little or no capacitance when measured. If left long enough they may vent some electrolyte and this will corrode the board, but I have yet to see it in these sets.

UPDATE -- replaced the two caps and the 5V rail is back to 5V and the TV started fine. I guess the moral of the story is for Mits RPTV owners to watch out for those swollen capacitors. Sounds similar to the DM board thread I saw earlier. TV fixed for $2 worth of parts.

Summary: if you get a red lamp indicator & replacing the bulb doesn't solve the problem, then check the LAMPEN line (pin 6 of J14, an orange lead). If it's 5V constant, you may need to replace the ballast board. If it's less, check your power board for swollen capacitors (for an example, see caps on left side of http://www.sarahclymer.com/tv005new.jpg). I wonder if this problem will become more common now that these tvs are several years old.

UPDATE -- replaced the two caps and the 5V rail is back to 5V and the TV started fine. I guess the moral of the story is for Mits RPTV owners to watch out for those swollen capacitors. Sounds similar to the DM board thread I saw earlier. TV fixed for $2 worth of parts.

Summary: if you get a red lamp indicator & replacing the bulb doesn't solve the problem, then check the LAMPEN line (pin 5 of J14, an orange lead). If it's 5V constant, you may need to replace the ballast board. If it's less, check your power board for swollen capacitors (for an example, see caps on left side of http://www.sarahclymer.com/tv005new.jpg). I wonder if this problem will become more common now that these tvs are several years old.

So you just reconnected the orange cap that was disconnected, and replaced the swollen ones? (And didn't replace the voltage regulator)?

I have always used Directv for my HD and I have finally moved to an area in range of OTA HD. I plugged in my antenna and all I'm getting is analog channels. When I try to go to the antenna setup option next to the Netcommand option, it is whited out and not selectable. Is this a firmware problem? I have never had the firmware updated before.

So you just reconnected the orange cap that was disconnected, and replaced the swollen ones? (And didn't replace the voltage regulator)?

Correct.

Are those Capacitors easy to find at a local Radio Shack or other electronics parts store?

I have always used Directv for my HD and I have finally moved to an area in range of OTA HD. I plugged in my antenna and all I'm getting is analog channels. When I try to go to the antenna setup option next to the Netcommand option, it is whited out and not selectable. Is this a firmware problem? I have never had the firmware updated before.

If you go to Setup, select "NetCommand", and then "Review", are ANT-1 and ANT-2 checked?

Are those Capacitors easy to find at a local Radio Shack or other electronics parts store?

I bought 'em from Mouser.com, but I think it's a pretty standard part.

After taking the back panels off of the Tv, I am having a hard time even seeing where this board is. Is there a way to see this board without totally dismantling the TV?
Where would the lamp assembly be in your picture?

After taking the back panels off of the Tv, I am having a hard time even seeing where this board is. Is there a way to see this board without totally dismantling the TV? Where would the lamp assembly be in your picture?

Do you have the service manual?

If you remove the electrical chassis (following the service manual instructions), there's a metal plate screwed onto the front of it. The Power PCB is beneath that plate.

> Where would the lamp assembly be in your picture?

Not sure what you mean by lamp assembly (of course, the bulb goes in the front panel). The service manual will show you where the ballast card & light engine are.

No. I do not have the service manual. :( But, i did just order one. Should receive tomorrow.
This TV looks like it has been designed to frustrate the hell out of a service Tech. Lot's of very small screws to remove in tight quarters.

The service company I had come out now wants to try to replace the power board for $500 with no guarantee that it will fix the problem. I told them to forget it.
If I can't fix it then I guess it will be time to move up to 1080P. :D

I picked up a 40" 1080P sony LCD to use while the Mitsu is down ( eventually being moved to the bedroom) and I can't believe how much more detail there is over 720P.

I will report back with any progress that I am making later this week.

The service manual will be of marginal use. The dissassembly of the chassis is tedious and requires care. A significant problem is that it is very hard toget to the boards to make meaurements while the chassis is assembled enough to try to operate the set.

If you decide to give up on repairing it and want to get rid of it let me know. I am interested in experimenting with these sets. While the lack of serious support from Mitsubishi for troubleshooting is a problem, we have not had very many of them fail. We have quite a few installed in client's systems and I would like to be better prepared when they do fail.

The service manual will be of marginal use. The dissassembly of the chassis is tedious and requires care. A significant problem is that it is very hard toget to the boards to make meaurements while the chassis is assembled enough to try to operate the set.

I didn't think removing the electrical chassis was too bad. If you have a chair that's about equal height with the TV stand, you can move it out of the TV with all the cables connected, rotate it 90 degrees, and set it on the chair. You just have to remove 4 screws, pull the AC power plug out of its holder, and it slides right out. Then you can run the TV while you take measurements (be very careful, of course). IMO, removing the ballast card was a lot more difficult.

Reference again my picture:

http://www.sarahclymer.com/tv005new.jpg

Chassis is sitting on the chair, turned 90 degrees, and all cables are connected.

With regard to disassembly, it's easy to get to the power board (just remove the screws to the front cover plate and slide it up). I can't speak to the other boards, but you should definitely take a look at the power board before you give up on it.

No. I do not have the service manual. :( But, i did just order one. Should receive tomorrow.

One of you should scan that into a PDF and post it up. One day we'll all need to reference it.

I had to rig up the chassis in a few ways to defeat the safety switches and such when I was debugging the ballast board issue I had. You can get the set to turn on by while it is opened up, but just be careful. Getting to the ballast board is a bit tough, but not too bad. The service manual is sorely lacking when it comes to disassembly instructions.

Thanks to noplasma I was able to pull out the electrical chassis without too much problem and without disconnecting any wires. After pulling the cover to the power board; I was able to see the same 2 capacitors bulging and oozing out their tops. Luckily nothing got on the PCB. I was able to remove them and they are definitely no good; 200uf and 60 uf. I'm surprised the TV worked as long as it did.
I went to our local electronics store and the closest Capacitor I could find was 3300uf 25V. I hope I can get these to fit on the board, they are a little larger diameter. Can't wait to get home from work to see if this solves my problem.

Keep your fingers crossed!

Lets see some photos of of the two capacitors. I have seen the Photos all ready here but do not know which two they are. Any photos of the electrical chassis would be great . I would like to know where it is located.

Thanks to noplasma I was able to pull out the electrical chassis without too much problem and without disconnecting any wires. After pulling the cover to the power board; I was able to see the same 2 capacitors bulging and oozing out their tops. Luckily nothing got on the PCB. I was able to remove them and they are definitely no good; 200uf and 60 uf. I'm surprised the TV worked as long as it did.
I went to our local electronics store and the closest Capacitor I could find was 3300uf 25V. I hope I can get these to fit on the board, they are a little larger diameter. Can't wait to get home from work to see if this solves my problem.

Keep your fingers crossed!

Was the original rating 3300uF, and a lower voltage rating? If so, I think the ones you got would be ok...

Good luck.

And the answer is ....................................... YESSSSSSSSS Tv is working good as new again!!!! Very easy $5.60 parts repair!! although I did also buy the service manual for $15; so really a $21 repair. Still beats the hundreds of dollars the service company would have charged to swapout the power board.

I feel that this is a DIY repair that most people with a small amount of electrical knowledge and a little soldering/desoldering ability can easily accomplish in about 2-3 hours.

Thankyou so much to noplasma and other forum members for the help in getting our TV working again.

I'm sorry I didn't take any pics; but you will find the pics provided by noplasma clearly show the power board and bad capacitors.

I was afraid that the 25V caps would be a little too big around, but they do just fit.

If someone has a site that they would like to host the service manual I will gladly upload it there.

Thanks again to all that contributed to this thread.

I will be happy to answer any questions anyone has on this repair.

That's great! I'm glad to hear it worked. Since you and I had the same problem, I'm sure there will be others. Hopefully this thread will set them on the right path.

And the answer is ....................................... YESSSSSSSSS Tv is working good as new again!!!! Very easy $5.60 parts repair!! although I did also buy the service manual for $15; so really a $21 repair. Still beats the hundreds of dollars the service company would have charged to swapout the power board.

I picked up a 40" 1080P sony LCD to use while the Mitsu is down ( eventually being moved to the bedroom) and I can't believe how much more detail there is over 720P.

The 1080 resolution is nice. My wife & I picked up a 30" HDTV CRT at a garage sale for $5 that was marked "broken". The owner reported that it had been dropped. It was a bit of a gamble, but I took it home & opened it up. All that was wrong was that the corner of the PCB where the AC power cord connects had broken off. So I super-glued & soldered the corner back on & the TV worked beautifully. So I got a $600 (list price) 1080i TV for $5!!! Perfect for the bedroom.

I wonder how often stuff gets tossed that could be fixed easily.

Lets see some photos of of the two capacitors. I have seen the Photos all ready here but do not know which two they are. Any photos of the electrical chassis would be great . I would like to know where it is located.

In my previously posted photo (http://www.sarahclymer.com/tv005new.jpg), the electrical chassis is the unit sitting on the chair. If you are standing behind the tv, it goes into the left side.

The bad capacitors are the two left-most black electrolytic caps. They sit directly to the left of the big left metal heat sink. The "X" on the top of the cap is swollen, has a tiny gap in the center of the top, and clearly differs from the tops of other capacitors on the board.

In my previously posted photo (http://www.sarahclymer.com/tv005new.jpg), the electrical chassis is the unit sitting on the chair. If you are standing behind the tv, it goes into the left side.

The bad capacitors are the two left-most black electrolytic caps. They sit directly to the left of the big left metal heat sink. The "X" on the top of the cap is swollen, has a tiny gap in the center of the top, and clearly differs from the tops of other capacitors on the board.

Thank you,
My TV has all most 6000 hours. So next time I take it apart for a cleaning I will take a look at them. I still have my First lamp in it. Do you think Radio Shack would have them?

Thank you,
My TV has all most 6000 hours. So next time I take it apart for a cleaning I will take a look at them. I still have my First lamp in it. Do you think Radio Shack would have them?

You know that if you are doing just a mirror cleaning, you won't have access to this board, right?

Thank you,
My TV has all most 6000 hours. So next time I take it apart for a cleaning I will take a look at them. I still have my First lamp in it. Do you think Radio Shack would have them?


Wow, I have about 3000 hours (two years old) on my first bulb. The bulb just blew last week. Fortunately, I got a free extended 5 year warranty, which covers everything including two bulbs. However, I was told bulbs are back ordered, could take 7-10 days. I was assured that it will be overnighted once it arrives.

You know that if you are doing just a mirror cleaning, you won't have access to this board, right?
Yes I do! I have had the back off twice now looking for light coming in when the black screen is showing.

I wonder how often stuff gets tossed that could be fixed easily.
Spend some time cruising garage sales on a Saturday and you might be shocked. This is what my brother does. He has scored so much stuff for $1 or less because the item was broken but the owner couldn't bring himself to toss it in the trash can. Many times he'll get them for free just by asking. Most of the things he picks up.....microwaves, power tools, digital cameras, etc....only require very minor repairs like a fuse or power cord replacement. Just recently he went to the landfill to drop something off and found a Sony VX-1000 somebody had dumped. Turns out all that was wrong with it was a bad contact where the operating keyboard membrane plugs in. Otherwise it works perfectly.

Spend some time cruising garage sales on a Saturday and you might be shocked. This is what my brother does. He has scored so much stuff for $1 or less because the item was broken but the owner couldn't bring himself to toss it in the trash can. Many times he'll get them for free just by asking. Most of the things he picks up.....microwaves, power tools, digital cameras, etc....only require very minor repairs like a fuse or power cord replacement. Just recently he went to the landfill to drop something off and found a Sony VX-1000 somebody had dumped. Turns out all that was wrong with it was a bad contact where the operating keyboard membrane plugs in. Otherwise it works perfectly.

Sometimes being a 'technogeek' has it advantages! I love fixing stuff "common folk" don't understand. It makes up for the many years of being teased for being a geek.

hey folks, I have the blinking timer light and have the back of the TV taken off so far. However for the life of me I cannot determine how to get the DM board out so I can see the capacitors that should be swollen. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I have already had a local atlanta mits tech out that replaced the power supply and the TV worked for about a week then would never turn back on. he wants to replace the DM board and I want no part of that so i want to attempt to fix this myself.

Thanks again!!
Todd

Thanks to spiff, iron horse and all other members who wrote up and posted pics about cleaning the lower internal mirror. Just a couple pics to remind owners how bad it can get. A WD-62525 that I helped clean today.

filthy dirty mirror
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/1624/mitsdlpdirtymirror5st4.jpg

nice clean mirror
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/7251/mitsdlpcleanmirror2sh7.jpg

Wow....great pics, dssturbo! I believe that was the final nudge I needed to get busy and take care of this on my set...now I just need to search back and find the step-by-steps, as well as the preferred material to clean it with.... :)

Thanks!
Randy

hey folks, I have the blinking timer light and have the back of the TV taken off so far. However for the life of me I cannot determine how to get the DM board out so I can see the capacitors that should be swollen. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I have already had a local atlanta mits tech out that replaced the power supply and the TV worked for about a week then would never turn back on. he wants to replace the DM board and I want no part of that so i want to attempt to fix this myself.

Thanks again!!
Todd


From a previous post:

"The DM Board is located right in the center of the electronics chassis box, and is the one the Cablecard plugs into. The chassis had to be removed from the set and disassembled almost entirely. Several boards and numerous cables harnesses had to be removed to get to the DM Board."

See the last few weeks of discussion for tips on removing the electrical chassis. Please post pictures & findings.

By the way, any idea what troubleshooting steps led your tech to (perhaps incorrectly) replace the power board? What error codes & symptoms are you seeing now?

Wow....great pics, dssturbo! I believe that was the final nudge I needed to get busy and take care of this on my set...now I just need to search back and find the step-by-steps, as well as the preferred material to clean it with.... :)

Thanks!
Randy

That is an absolutely shocking picture. There must be some serious ventilation issues with these TV's (as designed). I haven't opened mine in at least a year or two, and I can't see any blotches yet. I think the key to fixing the issues is resealing the area around the projection lens where the foam separates (which I did with several strips of electrical tape at that time).

WOW. That must have made a huge difference in PQ when he was done!

I have searched and searched but haven't been able to find the answer. I have a WD-62825 that has had a loud popping noise since I bought it. Has anyone else heard of this before. I had the service come out they replaced two ballast and bulbs? The noise seems to come from the left side if the screen and it does it maybe every couple of minutes. I don't think it is an audio pop as it would happen when the speakers were turned off and I had everything running through my reciever. It seems the tech they kept sending out really wasn't as good as he thought he was. Any information you could share would be appreciated.

I have searched and searched but haven't been able to find the answer. I have a WD-62825 that has had a loud popping noise since I bought it. Has anyone else heard of this before. I had the service come out they replaced two ballast and bulbs? The noise seems to come from the left side if the screen and it does it maybe every couple of minutes. I don't think it is an audio pop as it would happen when the speakers were turned off and I had everything running through my reciever. It seems the tech they kept sending out really wasn't as good as he thought he was. Any information you could share would be appreciated.

It's hard for me to imagine what could make a "loud popping noise" in your TV besides the audio speakers. Maybe there's a shorted trace somewhere sending power to a speaker. If you put your ear up to the speaker grill, does it sound like it's coming from the left speaker? You might try physically disconnecting the left speaker & seeing if you still have the effect.

If you were hearing a softer "click"-like sound, that might be caused by arcing (in the ballast surge arrestor or elsewhere).

It's hard for me to imagine what could make a "loud popping noise" in your TV besides the audio speakers. Maybe there's a shorted trace somewhere sending power to a speaker. If you put your ear up to the speaker grill, does it sound like it's coming from the left speaker? You might try physically disconnecting the left speaker & seeing if you still have the effect.

If you were hearing a softer "click"-like sound, that might be caused by arcing (in the ballast surge arrestor or elsewhere).

You might try muting the audio completely and see if the sound persists. If you are still using audio through an AVR, you still could be getting it through those speakers.

It's hard for me to imagine what could make a "loud popping noise" in your TV besides the audio speakers. Maybe there's a shorted trace somewhere sending power to a speaker. If you put your ear up to the speaker grill, does it sound like it's coming from the left speaker? You might try physically disconnecting the left speaker & seeing if you still have the effect.

If you were hearing a softer "click"-like sound, that might be caused by arcing (in the ballast surge arrestor or elsewhere).

It definably sounds like an electrical pop and doesn't sound as though it is coming from the lower speaker area but more from the left of the screen. By the way just finished reading through all of your latest on the repairs you had to do. Very interesting stuff. But looking at most of the pictures I have seen on here with TVs dismantled it doesn't appear that there is anything in the area I describe. I guess that is why they went to the ballast as it was near there. Even if it is coming through the speakers what could be causing this. It is quite annoying to say the least. The only thing hooked up to the set now is the cable box and a Xbox.

You might try muting the audio completely and see if the sound persists. If you are still using audio through an AVR, you still could be getting it through those speakers.

Exactly what I thought, if it was coming through the speakers it would have come through my external speakers as well, which it didn't. And at that time I had the Tv speakers in the OFF mode.

It definably sounds like an electrical pop and doesn't sound as though it is coming from the lower speaker area but more from the left of the screen. By the way just finished reading through all of your latest on the repairs you had to do. Very interesting stuff. But looking at most of the pictures I have seen on here with TVs dismantled it doesn't appear that there is anything in the area I describe. I guess that is why they went to the ballast as it was near there. Even if it is coming through the speakers what could be causing this. It is quite annoying to say the least. The only thing hooked up to the set now is the cable box and a Xbox.

I don't think there is really much electronics to the left of the screen. The cards and modules are mainly situated on the base of the TV & the upper portions serve as structural support for the massive screen that the image reflects onto.

You might try taking the back panel off the TV to see if you can better pin-point where the noise originates. Until you can confirm that the speaker isn't the culprit, my best guess it that you've got crosstalk / capacitive coupling putting charge into a speaker line. The easiest fix (if there are no other negative symptoms) would be to disconnect the TV speaker.

I don't think there is really much electronics to the left of the screen. The cards and modules are mainly situated on the base of the TV & the upper portions serve as structural support for the massive screen that the image reflects onto.

You might try taking the back panel off the TV to see if you can better pin-point where the noise originates. Until you can confirm that the speaker isn't the culprit, my best guess it that you've got crosstalk / capacitive coupling putting charge into a speaker line. The easiest fix (if there are no other negative symptoms) would be to disconnect the TV speaker.
The ballast and lamp are to the left side of the screen. (from front view point).

The ballast has a spark gap. That certainly can make a popping sound.
You should be able to remove the rear cover and visually see the arc (if it is the case). It is located under a metal cover in the very front left of the TV (from front view).
Other than that...maybe the color wheel is off balance and hitting something?? Kinda a stretch tho...my 1st guess is ballast or lamp.

The ballast and lamp are to the left side of the screen. (from front view point).

The ballast has a spark gap. That certainly can make a popping sound.
You should be able to remove the rear cover and visually see the arc (if it is the case). It is located under a metal cover in the very front left of the TV (from front view).
Other than that...maybe the color wheel is off balance and hitting something?? Kinda a stretch tho...my 1st guess is ballast or lamp.


Okay, now I seem to be getting somewhere. The ballast has been replaced twice and still the pop remains. This gap, is there anything that can be done to remedy this? I assume there needs to be a gap, but could there be a shield that may be out of place or something? Like I had said before the noise does not seem to be an audio pop but more of a static/electrical pop. It comes from where the ballast is located as I have watched the tech replace it twice.

When cleaning the mirrors and screen, what is the best solution to use. I know in the owners manual as for my outer screen it says only to use water. Water? That just doesn't seem to do the best job. What has everyone else used or use? Especially if/when I tackle the mirror and inside of the screen.

Okay, now I seem to be getting somewhere. The ballast has been replaced twice and still the pop remains. This gap, is there anything that can be done to remedy this? I assume there needs to be a gap, but could there be a shield that may be out of place or something? Like I had said before the noise does not seem to be an audio pop but more of a static/electrical pop. It comes from where the ballast is located as I have watched the tech replace it twice.

It's normal to have a single spark-over when the lamp is ignited (the spark gap acts as a switch to provide the proper strike voltage). If your TV is doing this repeatedly after start-up is complete, then I wonder if the light engine is continually telling the ballast to ignite the lamp. It would be interesting to monitor the LAMPEN pin (orange pin into J14) to see if this input is getting pulsed. Does the screen flicker at all when this noise occurs?

It's normal to have a single spark-over when the lamp is ignited (the spark gap acts as a switch to provide the proper strike voltage). If your TV is doing this repeatedly after start-up is complete, then I wonder if the light engine is continually telling the ballast to ignite the lamp. It would be interesting to monitor the LAMPEN pin (orange pin into J14) to see if the input continues to get pulsed even after the TV has started. Does the screen flicker at all when this noise occurs?

No there is no visual effects at all when the pop occurs. Seems unusual to me as you would think by the sound that something would happen to the picture. Like I said before though the tech kept going to the area of the ballast and replaced two of them so we may be onto something, especially if there is a signal sent from the light engine to power up the ballast. Hummm.......

Seems unusual to me as you would think by the sound that something would happen to the picture.

Since that spark-over is on the 340V line, I was curious if the lamp was getting pulsed with high voltage during each "click".

Wow....great pics, dssturbo! I believe that was the final nudge I needed to get busy and take care of this on my set...now I just need to search back and find the step-by-steps, as well as the preferred material to clean it with.... :) Thanks! Randy

i used Spiff's info on page 95 post #2838 and ironhorse's from page 141 post 4222.

Yes, spiff the foam backing was not seated on this guys set too. just used some duct tape to hold it back in place. And used some regular windex and a clean cotton cloth to clean and dry the mirror, it might have had the slightest streak or a speck of dust on it when we finished but Gezzz compared to how dirty the mirror was to start it looked great. This guy had cleaned the side filter a couple times but never knew about the mirror getting this way on these sets. he was one happy camper when we finished and the set fired back up with no smudges onscreen.

Noob question of the day. <question moved to this thread from another>

I have a 62725. The HDMI connector is an HDMI/DVI connector correct? I would like to hook it up to my new XA-2 which supports HDMI 1.3.

What exactly do I need to order - is it an HDMI to HDMI cable or HDMI to DVI-D or some other DVI variant connector that is needed?

TIA

Noob question of the day. <question moved to this thread from another>

I have a 62725. The HDMI connector is an HDMI/DVI connector correct? I would like to hook it up to my new XA-2 which supports HDMI 1.3.

What exactly do I need to order - is it an HDMI to HDMI cable or HDMI to DVI-D or some other DVI variant connector that is needed?

TIA
Im not familiar with the XA-2, but if it is HDMI 1.3 as you say, then all you need is an HDMI cable. Standard speed (dont buy dual link its only for 1080p).

It's normal to have a single spark-over when the lamp is ignited (the spark gap acts as a switch to provide the proper strike voltage). If your TV is doing this repeatedly after start-up is complete, then I wonder if the light engine is continually telling the ballast to ignite the lamp. It would be interesting to monitor the LAMPEN pin (orange pin into J14) to see if this input is getting pulsed. Does the screen flicker at all when this noise occurs?
This seems possible.
I also wonder if the lamp had been replaced (I assume it was since ballast was replaced 2x).
Its odd that the picture is normal during this. That kinda rules out a poor connection between lamp and ballast.

Maybe they dropped a screw on the ballast when they were replacing it. It's quite a chore to replace???

This seems possible.
I also wonder if the lamp had been replaced (I assume it was since ballast was replaced 2x).
Its odd that the picture is normal during this. That kinda rules out a poor connection between lamp and ballast.

Maybe they dropped a screw on the ballast when they were replacing it. It's quite a chore to replace???

They replaced the lamp the first time but only another new ballast the second. What do you mean by propping a screw on the ballast? Do you mean leaving one on it or if one came into contact with it it could mess it up?

Im not familiar with the XA-2, but if it is HDMI 1.3 as you say, then all you need is an HDMI cable. Standard speed (dont buy dual link its only for 1080p).

Thanks, Hipnotiq.

I'm sure you have heard of the XA2 before. :) The XA2 is the "high end" second generation HD DVD player from Toshiba.

One follow-up question. I am planning on replacing the 62725 in a couple of years with a projector and screen. The projector I pick up at that time will likely be a 1080p projector. I recognize that the 62725 is 1080i only.

Did you make the recommendation of standard speed HDMI because the 62725 is 1080i (and hence unnecessary) or do you recommend such a cable regardless in my case for compatibility reasons?

Ya, I was just saying save your money becuase the added cost wont benefit you on the '725.
It doesnt really matter though. I suppose the cost difference is minimal.

... The projector I pick up at that time will likely be a 1080p projector. I recognize that the 62725 is 1080i only.

...

All DLPs are 720p or 1080p native, not 1080i.

Thanks, Hipnotiq. I'm sure you have heard of the XA2 before. :) The XA2 is the "high end" second generation HD DVD player from Toshiba. One follow-up question. I am planning on replacing the 62725 in a couple of years with a projector and screen. The projector I pick up at that time will likely be a 1080p projector. I recognize that the 62725 is 1080i only. Did you make the recommendation of standard speed HDMI because the 62725 is 1080i (and hence unnecessary) or do you recommend such a cable regardless in my case for compatibility reasons?

just go to monoprice.com and get a standard hdmi cable about $10. good solid well built cables and they ship fast.

Question for other WD-xxx25 owners. If you feel the right-back side of your TV after it's been off for hours, is it moderately warm? Seems like my TV makes an awful lot of heat for being in standby mode -- but I guess this is why they keep a fan running 24/7.

My TV feels pretty warm after in standby mode & I was wondering if this is normal.

Question for other WD-xxx25 owners. If you feel the right-back side of your TV after it's been off for hours, is it moderately warm? Seems like my TV makes an awful lot of heat for being in standby mode -- but I guess this is why they keep a fan running 24/7.

My TV feels pretty warm after in standby mode & I was wondering if this is normal.
Its normal.
They have to keep the POD circuitry activated even if your not using cablecard.
It is also why they have fans running 100% of the time.

Recently (the past 2 months or so) the video my 62725 has gotten pretty noisy. And by noisy I mean lines that move vertically and diagonally (not at the same time. Sometimes they are more vertical, other times more horizonal) acrosss the screen. Its not just the 1 line issue I've read about, but many lines, each a few inches apart. Its almost like I'm getting a bad signal except that it happens on 2 component ports (dvd and cable box) and 2 vga ports (wii and anything else I hook up).

I think I've read that a line conditioner might help, but I'm not sold on that yet.

Anyone have:

1) any thoughts
2) suggestions for a service shop in the Glendale, AZ area? I called the local Tweeters (showcase, here) but I'm wary of spending that much $$ without a reference of some sort.

Thanks,
David

Recently (the past 2 months or so) the video my 62725 has gotten pretty noisy. And by noisy I mean lines that move vertically and diagonally (not at the same time. Sometimes they are more vertical, other times more horizonal) acrosss the screen. Its not just the 1 line issue I've read about, but many lines, each a few inches apart. Its almost like I'm getting a bad signal except that it happens on 2 component ports (dvd and cable box) and 2 vga ports (wii and anything else I hook up).

I think I've read that a line conditioner might help, but I'm not sold on that yet.

Anyone have:

1) any thoughts
2) suggestions for a service shop in the Glendale, AZ area? I called the local Tweeters (showcase, here) but I'm wary of spending that much $$ without a reference of some sort.

Thanks,
David
I think you should confirm on an RF source. Such as off air antenna or cable.

ltw9 HOW YOUR SET WORKIG ?

My three year old Mitsubishi WD-62725 is sick. About a month ago the screen would go blank, with the red light comming on, but after a reset it would come back up. (happened a few times) I replaced the bulb six months ago, so I did not think the problem was that. Last week the red light came on and it would not come up regardless of reset. I purchased a new OEM bulb and installed it and it's still out. Checked the lamp connectors in the rear and they're fine too. I'm guessing light engine or ballast. Any suggestions? thx, Steve

My three year old Mitsubishi WD-62725 is sick. About a month ago the screen would go blank, with the red light comming on, but after a reset it would come back up. (happened a few times) I replaced the bulb six months ago, so I did not think the problem was that. Last week the red light came on and it would not come up regardless of reset. I purchased a new OEM bulb and installed it and it's still out. Checked the lamp connectors in the rear and they're fine too. I'm guessing light engine or ballast. Any suggestions? thx, Steve

It might be helpful to check out the thread discussing how I troubleshot a bad power supply board at:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=444566&page=147&pp=30

I also recommend reading on how umd_terp troubleshot a bad ballast at:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/printthread.php?t=444566&page=137&pp=30

Good luck!

Replaced the lamp on my set, plugged back in turned on but got no question about lamp replacement. How do I manually reset the timer? I went into the menu 2470 area but there was not a reset there that I saw. There are several numbers along the bottom of the menu, what are they for? I believe there were like four sets of them.

Daniel Murray,

My TV is working very well after the power supply capacitor replacement. I have a feeling we are about to see a lot of 3 year old sets come down with the same problem.
I have noticed that I too am now getting occaisonal scrolling faint lines on component inputs. I'm wondering if this could be caused by bad caps on the DM
board? I wanted to check those when I did the power supply fix but was too lazy to try to get to them. No lines at all on HDMI input. Maybe, I'm just noticing them more since I replaced the lamp and picture is MUCH brighter now!


Larry

Wow...maybe the extended warranty will come in handy, afterall. I tried re-reading the posts about replacing the capacitors, but I am still not sure...can you get a visual on the caps when you get into it to clean the mirrors or do you have to dig deeper? Of course, I'm guessing that the set would have to fail before I could get them to do anything under the warranty, but at least I would know if they are starting to have issues....

Thanks,
Randy

Daniel Murray,

My TV is working very well after the power supply capacitor replacement. I have a feeling we are about to see a lot of 3 year old sets come down with the same problem.
I have noticed that I too am now getting occaisonal scrolling faint lines on component inputs. I'm wondering if this could be caused by bad caps on the DM
board? I wanted to check those when I did the power supply fix but was too lazy to try to get to them. No lines at all on HDMI input. Maybe, I'm just noticing them more since I replaced the lamp and picture is MUCH brighter now!


Larry
My experience is the caps would cause a power related problem. Thats not to say they couldnt cause something else.
If HDMI input is Ok, but component input is not, then 1st I would suspect source since both of those inputs converge to the same analog selection IC.
If source is ruled out, then might wanna start checking all the components from the input connection to the selection IC.

Replaced the lamp on my set, plugged back in turned on but got no question about lamp replacement. How do I manually reset the timer? I went into the menu 2470 area but there was not a reset there that I saw. There are several numbers along the bottom of the menu, what are they for? I believe there were like four sets of them.

See attached picture.

Replaced the lamp on my set, plugged back in turned on but got no question about lamp replacement. How do I manually reset the timer? I went into the menu 2470 area but there was not a reset there that I saw. There are several numbers along the bottom of the menu, what are they for? I believe there were like four sets of them.

You might try disconnecting the TV from AC power for at least 10 minutes and see if you get the message. If it is only disconnected momentarily, you may not get the message.

I'd like to get the latest Firmware update, but from reading previous posts, it appears it often takes 2-4 phone calls to Mitsu service before they'll send it. I've already called them once, but was wondering if anyone had the update loaded onto their computer. If so, would you be willing to create a torrent for it? It would spare myself and potentially many others the hassle of dealing with the poor service Mitsubishi provides.

They should have a high enough confidence in their firmware to post their updates on their website (as Canon does for their digital SLR cameras).

I have had my 52725 for 2+ years and have been very happy with the set. I finally decided that I was tired of watching DVDs with lower quality than Cable TV (connected via component input)... so I purchased a PS3 for BluRay player. I connected it via HDMI. While the picture quality is no doubt better than standard 480p DVD output, it still does not seem as sharp to me as HD TV. I am thinking about trying component input and see if that improves the picture. Anyone have any experience here. BTW, I have read the forum threads regarding HDMI digital-analog-digital path... so my thought is perhaps the BluRay player will do the first conversion with higher quality than my TV.. and hence component input might be better?

Thanks in advance,
David

I have had my 52725 for 2+ years and have been very happy with the set. I finally decided that I was tired of watching DVDs with lower quality than Cable TV (connected via component input)... so I purchased a PS3 for BluRay player. I connected it via HDMI. While the picture quality is no doubt better than standard 480p DVD output, it still does not seem as sharp to me as HD TV. I am thinking about trying component input and see if that improves the picture. Anyone have any experience here. BTW, I have read the forum threads regarding HDMI digital-analog-digital path... so my thought is perhaps the BluRay player will do the first conversion with higher quality than my TV.. and hence component input might be better?

Thanks in advance,
David

In most cases, the HD TV broadcasts are better then the HD DVD or Blu-ray especially those stations broadcasting in 720p which is the native resolution of these TVs. It also depends on the Blu-ray movie. Sometimes the transfer doesn't look as good as one might hope. I've found that the picture always looks better via HDMI than component though. I have the 62525.

OK. Typo on my first entry... I actually have 62" with my BluRay... which would make it 62725.

Regarding source quality, you make a great point. Maybe I need to find a "really good" BluRay movie :o).

A couple of other items... I have noticed with Cable HD that the 1080i source looks better in general than 720p. Of the big 3 network local affliates, 2 use 1080i and the third 720p. I had thought that a more "native 720p" input signal would look better but to the untrained eye it does not. This brings up another question... I played with setting the BluRay output to 720p vs 1080i and could not really tell a difference in pic quality. If I run "auto detect" my PS3 decides that it will use 1080i. I have to manually set to 720p.

I have seen some issues with HDMI and sound quality... I don't really care since I run audio to my receiver via optical cable.

Thanks

OK. Typo on my first entry... I actually have 62" with my BluRay... which would make it 62725.

Regarding source quality, you make a great point. Maybe I need to find a "really good" BluRay movie :o).

A couple of other items... I have noticed with Cable HD that the 1080i source looks better in general than 720p. Of the big 3 network local affliates, 2 use 1080i and the third 720p. I had thought that a more "native 720p" input signal would look better but to the untrained eye it does not. This brings up another question... I played with setting the BluRay output to 720p vs 1080i and could not really tell a difference in pic quality. If I run "auto detect" my PS3 decides that it will use 1080i. I have to manually set to 720p.

I have seen some issues with HDMI and sound quality... I don't really care since I run audio to my receiver via optical cable.

Thanks

I think the PS3 automatically detects the setting that the TV can handle, and just picks the "highest" value.

I have not been impressed with the HDMI input on my Mits TV. My PS3 is actually hooked up to a Sony 46" XBR2 1080p TV, and the one Blu-Ray I have watched looked great (Mission Impossible 3).

There are some very bad transfers.

Take a look at the following thread for a list of peoples opinions about the various Blu-Ray titles available:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=858316

Thanks for the pointer to BluRay reviews... a Sony 1080p TV sounds nice. HDMI connected? I am going to be on 720p for quite a while.

OK. ...

Regarding source quality, you make a great point. Maybe I need to find a "really good" BluRay movie :o).

...

Thanks

Rent or buy one or the two "Transporter" movies on blu-ray. I think the video on those is great.

This what my screen looks like on all inputs. What happened?

Sorry to see that but i have no idea

Dose any one know what the difference between these lamps.
915P020010 and 915P026010 I was told they will work from Mits. Rep. But he did not know what the Difference was between them.

Well, I bought the component cable for the PS3 and asked my daughter to help with an independent assessment between HDMI and Component... we both thought the HDMI was slightly better. Slightly being the key word. As per earlier threads a bit disappointing that due to TV design (you HAVE to love a forum with circuit designs) the theory of all digital from DVD to screen gets lost. I'll take the component cable back. Since I have used up all my component inputs anyway (480p DVD, Cable TV, XBox), HDMI for the PS3 saves some switching headaches.

My next step is to get one of the recommended high quality transfer DVDs.

BTW, two thumbs up for the PS3/62725 combo for viewing photos. Wow.

My current version of NetCommand only supports 3 distinct input selections from my AVR. With the addition of my PS3 I am over that limit... with digital audio coming from the Cable TV box, 480p DVD player, TV itself. Is there firmware available to increase the AVR inputs to more than 3? Seems odd that the number of AVR inputs would be MUCH less than the number of video inputs on the TV.

This what my screen looks like on all inputs. What happened?

Well, it appears your OSD (on-screen display) still works, so the problem probably isn't your light engine or DMD.

Could you try hooking a laptop into your VGA port and seeing if you get a picture? I'm guessing the problem may be either the DM or Formatter board.

If you can isolate which board isn't working, then you can more easily check for bad caps or bad solder joints.

This what my screen looks like on all inputs. What happened?
Can you post smaller pics?
JK - looks like color wheel issue

Can you post smaller pics?
JK - looks like color wheel issue

I don't think it would be able to display crisply yellow letters against a blue background if the color wheel were bad...

My current version of NetCommand only supports 3 distinct input selections from my AVR. With the addition of my PS3 I am over that limit... with digital audio coming from the Cable TV box, 480p DVD player, TV itself. Is there firmware available to increase the AVR inputs to more than 3? Seems odd that the number of AVR inputs would be MUCH less than the number of video inputs on the TV.

Mine was set up with more than 3 AVR inputs. Did you choose a brand, or a generic AVR? I don't use this function anymore, so I can't help much, but it seemed like the inputs were customizable (names and/or quantities?)...

Thanks. You saved me.

After trying to find the "number of inputs" on the AVR panel under NetCommand, I did a wild/crazy thing... read the manual. When you initially set up the AVR you specify the number of inputs (obviously I said 3). After the initial setup if you need to add more inputs you have to delete and re-enter the AVR.

Well, the gremlins strike again... all of the sudden, the TV will not handshake over HDMI anymore. I have tried my DVD player, cable box, and PS3 and none will properly handshake over HDMI. I've tried four different cables as well on each device. I get sound over HDMI from the cable box (a FIOS Motorola 6416) but a green screen. The DVD player displays a start screen at 480p which comes through, but fails to handshake as soon as it hits 720p. The PS3 does not work at all. All were once connected through a Monoprice 5x1 switch.

What is it now? Bad DM board? I give up on this set. Three light engines, a bad ballast, and now this. I am sure I can rip out the chassis and diagnose this, but at this point, I really don't feel like dealing with it. I may just stick it out with no HDMI for now and just pick up a new set later this year. All I know is that Mitsubishi is off my list for good when it comes to televisions... f*ck them...

It would be nice If someone high up in Mitsubishi reads this thread and make a recall on some of there problems!!!!!!! I think they would save a lot of face!!!!!

It would be nice If someone high up in Mitsubishi reads this thread and make a recall on some of there problems!!!!!!! I think they would save a lot of face!!!!!


hopeless... I've tried over and over... written letters, and contacted my local dealer. All are completely, 100% utterly useless. I am sure companies go through periods and levels of poor customer service, but getting thoroughly ignored at every level from the dealer up to the top, is pretty sh1tty if you ask me.

I woke up this morning to the constant blinking green light. Had to reset the TV to get it to work. I've had this before and the fix was to replace the DM board. If the new DM board is failing so soon after being installed, then I'm with Terp in getting rid of this unit and buying something from another manufacturer.

Makes me glad I got the EW when I bought this TV and it is still good for another year. I think it keeps the gremlins away. :D (Knocking on wood).

(Part of me secretly hopes that something bad goes wrong, and they can't fix it, and they have to give me store credit to get something new.) Dare to dream...

hopeless... I've tried over and over... written letters, and contacted my local dealer. All are completely, 100% utterly useless. I am sure companies go through periods and levels of poor customer service, but getting thoroughly ignored at every level from the dealer up to the top, is pretty sh1tty if you ask me.

That's right, I've tried writing letters to the President, calling, etc. and it does not do any good even if it's something inherently wrong with the TV. The only other possibility would be a lawsuit, but the little person against a big company is a longshot. After this bad experience, my next TV was a Sony. I don't know, but they could be as bad as Mitsubishi. I know I recently had the same bad experience with Gateway (writing to the President) but he doesn't even read the letter. The customer service from large companies is getting worse and worse and I don't see any improvement in the future. As long as you have a good lobby in congress with lots of $$$, the company gets the best deals and the consumer gets the shaft.