I Know That Pioneer Was Sided On There Elite Dvd Players For Bad Soft Ware. Any One Who Had A Pioneer Dvd Player Could Get Them Fix For Free Of Get Your Money Back. I Got My Dv-59avi Dvd Fixed Under The Suit And Got My Money Back On My 5 Year Old 47avi Player.
So If There Is A Law Suite There Just May Be Hope For All Of Us. :d

I woke up this morning to the constant blinking green light. Had to reset the TV to get it to work. I've had this before and the fix was to replace the DM board. If the new DM board is failing so soon after being installed, then I'm with Terp in getting rid of this unit and buying something from another manufacturer.

It's amazing how much cheaper TVs have gotten. When I bought my TV about three years ago, the BB price was $4400. It was a WD-62525 which, of course, is 62" and 720p.

Now, BB sells a Mitsu 65" 1080p DLP for $2200 !!

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8320168&type=product&productCategoryId=pcmcat95100050031&id=1174693928647

I've got my TV working again, but I wouldn't buy another Mitsu. (I'm also mad at them for their reluctance to mail out firmware updates)

I'm not sure Samsung is much better though. From browsing their owner's forum, they've got their problems too. One example -- it looked like a lot of people had an issue with a mirror in their light tunnel shifting and creating a shadow on their screen that grows over time.

Maybe Sony is the way to go now.

It's amazing how much cheaper TVs have gotten. When I bought my TV about three years ago, the BB price was $4400. It was a WD-62525 which, of course, is 62" and 720p.

Now, BB sells a Mitsu 65" 1080p DLP for $2200 !!

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8320168&type=product&productCategoryId=pcmcat95100050031&id=1174693928647

I've got my TV working again, but I wouldn't buy another Mitsu. (I'm also mad at them for their reluctance to mail out firmware updates)

I'm not sure Samsung is much better though. From browsing their owner's forum, they've got their problems too. One example -- it looked like a lot of people had an issue with a mirror in their light tunnel shifting and creating a shadow on their screen that grows over time.

Maybe Sony is the way to go now.

I am afraid there will be problems with all of the different TV manufacturers... I recall that Sony was having issues with blue or green clouding on their SXRD TV's, and their LCD flat panels had uneven backlighting.

I really don't know what I will eventually get to replace this TV when the time comes. I spent a lot of time searching and researching the flat panel TV's when I bought my 46" Sony XBR2, and I haven't been looking into the RPTV's much lately. The whole lamp replacement requirement is a pain - maybe some of the LED lighting options on the Sammy's will prevent the need to replace bulbs every two years. Also, are there any DLP TV's that are affordable, and have LED lighting AND a 3-chip arrangement to prevent the "rainbow" effect? I went for several months watching my flat screen LCD and when we started watching the DLP, the rainbows seemed more apparent to me than they had ever been before! Maybe I just need to get accustomed to them again.

Well, for now I will suck it up without the HDMI input. If I can unload this set on someone for any amount of cash, I will go buy a new one later this year. I really want one that can do 1080p at a 120Hz (for the 24fps native scan rate). Any RP sets that can do this? Flat panel LCDs have always left me a little disappointed with their motion artifacts and poor black levels, but they certainly have come a long way.

Been away for a long time, mostly enjoying my almost 3 yr old 62725, although putting up with the intermittent resets, coming home to the static coming through the TV speakers even though they were turned off and the TV wasn't even on, etc. etc.

Went to turn it on yesterday and it went right to the fast-blinking green Timer light and is now stuck in this endless loop of the fast-blinking green Timer light coming on then off and then on again.

I've tried system resets, unplugging for an hour, unplugging overnight, unplugging the card reader and cursing at the damn thing...and no change! :) Based on what I have read over the last couple of hours on this board, it sounds like the DM board. Anyone have any other trouble shooting suggestions?

I didn't buy the extended warranty, so I'd estimate from what I have read here that I am looking at a $700+ repair bill. Given the issues with this TV and the way prices have come down, I just can't justify throwing money into it like that. Any suggestions on how to get rid of this huge paperweight?

For the record, this is my first and last Mits, and very likely my last DLP TV.

...

... "rainbow" effect? ...

That's one thing I've never experienced with my 62525. What is it and how can you tell you have it or notice it? I've heard of others experiencing this with DLPs but I've never noticed it.

Makes me glad I got the EW when I bought this TV and it is still good for another year. I think it keeps the gremlins away. :D (Knocking on wood).

(Part of me secretly hopes that something bad goes wrong, and they can't fix it, and they have to give me store credit to get something new.) Dare to dream...

I'd wish for this, too, but I bought mine at Ultimate Electronics who is no longer in this market. :( I guess I'll keep it 'til it dies. I've been very lucky, I have to admit...I am still on my first bulb and have had no major issues, and very few minor ones. At least prices will be a lot more reasonable next time around...not that I know what direction I'll end up going.... :confused:

Randy

That's one thing I've never experienced with my 62525. What is it and how can you tell you have it or notice it? I've heard of others experiencing this with DLPs but I've never noticed it.

Trust me - you are better off not knowing. Once you see it, you will see it all the time. :rolleyes:

On the other hand, some people aren't as susceptible to this effect. Maybe you are one of the lucky ones who can't see it!

I've tried system resets, unplugging for an hour, unplugging overnight, unplugging the card reader and cursing at the damn thing...and no change! :) Based on what I have read over the last couple of hours on this board, it sounds like the DM board. Anyone have any other trouble shooting suggestions?

.


If you wanted to, you could disassemble the hardware chassis and examine the caps on the DM board. Perhaps some have gone bad and you may be dealing with a power issue. If your set is completely out of commission, it may be worth it... for me, just a bad HDMI port doesn't justify tearing everything apart... if you have nothing to lose and have basic debug tools like a voltmeter and a service manual, you could get pretty far in figuring out what is wrong.

I can't justify spending $700 to get this set fixed when you can have new 1080p RP sets for a little over $1k.

If you wanted to, you could disassemble the hardware chassis and examine the caps on the DM board. Perhaps some have gone bad and you may be dealing with a power issue. If your set is completely out of commission, it may be worth it... for me, just a bad HDMI port doesn't justify tearing everything apart... if you have nothing to lose and have basic debug tools like a voltmeter and a service manual, you could get pretty far in figuring out what is wrong.

I can't justify spending $700 to get this set fixed when you can have new 1080p RP sets for a little over $1k.
If it IS the caps, I only charge $250 to fix.

My TV is still working after the power board caps replaced, but my faint scrolling diagonal lines are getting worse. It seems to be heat related: as the longer the Tv is on the worse they get. It's strange that it only happens on the analog inputs and not on HDMI.
I've tried every possible combination of cables and components hooked up and unhooked, but the lines are there from any source hooked into component or composite connections.
I think i'm going to tear into the TV again and try to get to the Dm board and check the capacitors. I'm hoping that they are the culprit and are letting a little AC voltage leak into the DC circuits.
Unfortunately, the service manual doesn't explain how to get this board out; but, if i break it, then i'll have the excuse i need to Buy a new set and it will not be a MITSUSHITI.
I'm also still waiting for Mitsu parts to issue a credit for the lamp i returned to them a month ago. I called them today and they said they were backlogged and it would be another 2 weeks before they can test the lamp i returned and issue a credit.
I hope that everyone on this forum with these TV's and the bad capacitor problems will post so we can keep track of failure rate of 3 year old sets. I smell a class action lawsuit if Mitsu doesn't issue a recall!

I smell a class action lawsuit if Mitsu doesn't issue a recall!

I am with You 100% We all spent a lot of Money on are HD TVs and we got Crap.
No support!!!!! from them.
This is what happen with Pioneer Elite DVD players and they got hit with a class action lawsuit. I joined in the law suit and Got one fixed and all my money back on other.

noplasma = Friend of mine has had 2 Sony XBR2 sets with green blob and Best buy warranty both and now he has an XBR3 that only shows Green and some times Blue colors. Best Buy told him no more warranties and to Bad. He Bitch Loud and Long at Best Buy about this. They even called the cops on Him. the Cops said he had the right to be pist OFF. He Had some one high up from Best Buy came down and told him some one from Sony was on the way.
The guy from Sony said When the new XBR5 set comes out in the fall they will give him one for his trouble. and Best Buys had to swap out the other bad XBR3 set until the new XBR5 comes out. He dose have it in writing
Sony I am still not sure about them.

I think i'm going to tear into the TV again and try to get to the Dm board and check the capacitors. I'm hoping that they are the culprit and are letting a little AC voltage leak into the DC circuits.
Unfortunately, the service manual doesn't explain how to get this board out; but, if i break it, then i'll have the excuse i need to Buy a new set and it will not be a MITSUSHITI.

I'd be interested in hearing about how hard it is to remove the DM board. Keep us posted on your results.

How warm does your TV get when it's in standby? It would be inconvenient, but you could try turning off the power strip whenever you're not using the TV. Then it would be entirely cold when you start it. Of course, the TV would need to reboot every time you watch it.

Sony I am still not sure about them.

I guess that's the problem with being with the "cutting edge". Every company is rushing their products to market and failing to do the proper testing.

Went to turn it on yesterday and it went right to the fast-blinking green Timer light and is now stuck in this endless loop of the fast-blinking green Timer light coming on then off and then on again.

Wow, 3 different reports of failing TVs in one day!

I guess you can't even get a service error code out of it either? Does this endless cycle occur when the TV does a reboot after plug-in or after you hit the power-on button? If the latter, does it make a click (signifying an attempt to light the lamp?)

This sounds like a tough one to troubleshoot. The TV *should* reach a fault condition or timeout and shutdown within 90 seconds of startup attempt. The processor is likely failing to boot from the startup PROM and hitting an error condition that the designers didn't anticipate (e.g., waiting for a poll-response with no coded timeout).

I'd recommend looking at the electrical chassis boards for bad caps or signs of damage. The TV uPC (microprocessor) needs a good 3.3V and 5.0V signal to work.

What perplexes me is why the HDMI port no longer handshakes properly. The STB is sending a signal and I get video for a split second and then the screen goes green while audio is still there... the signal is apparantly working fine, but why is there no proper HDCP handshake. The DVD player and PS3 simply don't display a thing... If the whole port was bad, I doubt I would see or hear anything...

Wow, 3 different reports of failing TVs in one day!

I guess you can't even get a service error code out of it either? Does this endless cycle occur when the TV does a reboot after plug-in or after you hit the power-on button? If the latter, does it make a click (signifying an attempt to light the lamp?)

This sounds like a tough one to troubleshoot. The TV *should* reach a fault condition or timeout and shutdown within 90 seconds of startup attempt. The processor is likely failing to boot from the startup PROM and hitting an error condition that the designers didn't anticipate (e.g., waiting for a poll-response with no coded timeout).

I'd recommend looking at the Signal and Power boards for bad caps or signs of damage. The TV uPC (microprocessor) needs a good 3.3V and 5.0V signal to work.

The loop starts after plug-in or reset, with a click sound each time the light starts flashing. It started when I first pushed the power-on button yesterday and since then nothing happens when I push the power button.

I don't have the voltage meter or whatever else I need to open up the chassis and start troubleshooting bad caps, but more than that I just don't have the patience to deal with this right now. The picture has been getting dimmer recently, so the bulb needs replacing soon and adding that to any of the repair costs just isn't sitting well with me after just 3 short years. It doesn't help that wife has already thrown in the towel and wants to replace it now with a 60" plasma. Aw shucks! :)

I'll probably tinker with it once we move it out of the entertaining center and see if I can get it working again and then figure out what to do with it then.

Thanks everyone for your responses. We deserve better than this crap. :mad:

It doesn't help that wife has already thrown in the towel and wants to replace it now with a 60" plasma. Aw shucks! :)

A 60" plasma sounds nice!

Do you still have the original firmware installed? It's possible the later versions may have improved fault detection SW... although that's probably a long-shot.

A 60" plasma sounds nice!

Do you still have the original firmware installed? It's possible the later versions may have improved fault detection SW... although that's probably a long-shot.

upgraded to .05 when it first came out and Mits was still sending out the updates without too much hassle. That is the latest version, correct?

upgraded to .05 when it first came out and Mits was still sending out the updates without too much hassle. That is the latest version, correct?

That's the latest I've seen mentioned. By the way, I did a quick search & and there's some indication that a bad DM board will cause your TV's symptoms. See:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/archive/index.php/t-863809.html

http://www.fixya.com/support/t147611-blinking_green_light_mitsubishi_dlp

And at this site: http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=20219

There's a quote that says:

Is your set exhibiting any of these problems:

..."I have a Mitsubishi WD65513 that had a blinking green power Led and the set would not come on."...."I had the exact same problem with my WS-65611 set."

**Possible cause: **You may have a bad DM module!*** (end quote)

There's some discussion of people replacing bad caps on their DM board. The DM board is in the electrical chassis. There's some discussion in the last few pages of this thread on how to remove the electrical chassis that contains the DM board. I can provide support if you want to check it out. I'm curious as to if the DM cap problem is rearing its ugly head for the xxx25 sets.

I think i'm going to tear into the TV again and try to get to the Dm board and check the capacitors. I'm hoping that they are the culprit and are letting a little AC voltage leak into the DC circuits.

Check out this link:

http://en.allexperts.com/q/TV-VCR-Stereo-1749/Mitsubishi-WD-52525-wavy.htm

You may want to look at the Formatter and Input (TERM2) boards too...

Add one more 62725 to the list of problematic babies. This set has been absolutely drop dead perfect since the day I had it delivered, and other than changing out the bulb (it was still working but I thought it might be tired), I haven't had a complaint... until a few days ago.

All of a sudden, I'm having problems turning it on. My set gets its power through a UPS (since day #1), so I never have issues with power outages no allowing it to cool down properly. For the past week its been hit or miss as to whether it will go on or not. Some nights it turns on just fine, then other nights it seems to start going on, and I can hear the cooling fans start to spin up. Then the voice comes on but no picture... and 30 seconds later it goes off. Sometimes the green led flashes, and if I do a reset, it flashes, then eventually stops... and then when I power on, the led turns to red indicating a failed bulb. If I let it sit overnight, then turn it on in the morning... it turns on just fine and there's no problems, sometimes. Other times, I get absolutely nothing.

I stopped at my dealer this morning and he said I should call Mits and see if they will send me a new CF with the latest firmware. My set has v.26004.05 and I think its at least 18 months old.

About 3 months ago I replaced the bulb and did a thorough clean-up of the mirror and associated components, and the picture has been killer ever since.

I did purchase an extended warranty from my dealer, and if Mits thinks its something other than the firmware, he'll get the WarranTech service company over to check it out. From the sound of the last bunch of posts, it could be a similar problem. Has anyone here actually called Mitsubishi and discussed the problem? And what is the latest firmware version?

If I let it sit overnight, then turn it on in the morning... it turns on just fine and there's no problems, sometimes. Other times, I get absolutely nothing.

The intermittent aspect & diverse failure symptoms suggest a cracked/poor solder joint. If you get a red lamp light, you should hold in the DEVICE and MENU buttons on the TV for 5 seconds & then count the LED flashes to get the service error code.

See the attached picture for detailed instructions.

I think some people will find this information useful:

An update to the firmware can be downloaded at:

http://files-upload.com/421611/FirmwareUpdate.zip.html

NOTE: The upload site description calls the update v. 1.05, but I believe it is v 4.05 (I've installed it successfully & and the TV shows it to be 4.05).

Also, the v26 chassis service manual can be downloaded at:

http://files-upload.com/421619/V26_Service_Manualfull.pdf.html

On a whim I called mitsubishi customer relations to describe my HDMI issues... basically, they just said call a service center to get an estimate and fax it to them... A service center is sure to charge just to come out and look at the issue, so I don't know what to do... I have no idea if Mitsubishi will do anything even if I jump through the hoops they are setting up...

I wonder what it will take to get a class action lawsuit on Mitsubishi ? So we can get Justice!!

It's the strangest thing... according to my STB diagnostic menus, HDCP is disabled on the display... nothing changed at all with my setup to cause this... it just won't handshake at all anymore. There have been no FW updates to the STB and none of the other HDMI devices will handshake so it seems to be isolated to the TV. I have 4 HDMI cables and all give the same results.

I wonder what it will take to get a class action lawsuit on Mitsubishi ?
Probably a lot more than random DM board failures.

2nd Note: After install, your TV will show this to be v. 4.05, but it is really v. 4.06 (a member of this forum confirmed this via a phone-call to Mitsu).

If it doesn't say 4.06, then it's not 4.06.
I have loaded 4.06 for customers before and confirmed it updates to 4.06.

the version on that website is undoubtedly 4.05.

Interesting... I also loaded what was supposed to be 4.06, but it never updated the number to read 4.06... I am still at 4.05 then I guess....

If it doesn't say 4.06, then it's not 4.06.
I have loaded 4.06 for customers before and confirmed it updates to 4.06.

the version on that website is undoubtedly 4.05.

Thanks for the info. I updated my previous note to indicate the update is v. 4.05 -- that is what my TV indicated when I installed it. Looking back earlier on this thread, it appears a Mitsu rep may have misinformed someone on this topic.

UMD_TERP: have you tried deleting the hdmi input in netcommand? If not delete it then power cycle TV off then on then, add it back, This worked for me when i had a simlilar issue from my HD DVD player.

*** Be sure to write down all your color settings 1st; they will reset back to defaults when you do this!!! ***

I've deleted the HDMI in netcommand and have also done a full initialization of the TV to no avail...

It's also possible that in the initial release if the 4.06 firmware, someone forgot to include code (or whatever) that would make the TV reflect the new firmware revision, and that they corrected it after people like Terp (or whoever it was) brought the problem to their attention. I say this because I already had 4.05 installed when I ordered 4.06. After installing this new firmware, I did notice a slight change in the behavior of my firewire I/O. The first few times I tried to view my STB through the firewire input, I got an on screen warning message saying I am unauthorized to use this input (or something like that). I thought, oh boy, Mitsubishi must've loaded this new firmware up with DRM crap. But the input continued to function and the message eventually went away, never to reappear. Anyway, long story short, that never happened when I installed 4.05 originally, so I'm pretty sure something did change when I installed what I was told was 4.06.

I think some people will find this information useful:

An update to the firmware can be downloaded at:

http://files-upload.com/421611/FirmwareUpdate.zip.html

NOTE: The upload site description calls the update v. 1.05, but I believe it is v 4.05 (I've installed it successfully & and the TV shows it to be 4.05).

Also, the v26 chassis service manual can be downloaded at:

http://files-upload.com/421619/V26_Service_Manualfull.pdf.html


any chance you can repost the firmware link? I want to try to put the firmware back on the TV in hopes of fixing my HDMI issue... thanks!

The remote problem that I had was that I would push buttons on the remote, and nothing would happen on the TV. You could push the volume buttons, the channel up down buttons, and nothing would happen for up to 30 seconds. Then, the TV would suddenly perform all of the commands as if they had been accumulated in a buffer while the TV was busy. I can't recall which version fixed this. I have version 004.05, and I upgraded twice to get to this version.

The loss of digital channels would make it look like you had to re-scan your channels because the digital channels wouldn't tune in. If you reset the TV with the little button on the front panel, the channels would reappear.

Hope this helps.

I have a sort of similar problem - it's related to a/v settings. I can't get my tv speakers to stay on except when I am watching my cable tv input. I go to the menu and set them to "on," but nothing happens. Also, my audio and video settings every now and then reset to factory defaults.

I called tech support and suggested a firmware upgrade, but they refused and said I need to call for service. Since I have an extended warranty, I just said ok. My appointment was supposed to be today, but the servicer called me in the morning and said it sounds like I need to replace my (circuit?) board and he ordered one from Mitsubishi. It should arrive in a couple of weeks.

Anyone with similar problems, and does replacing a board sound like the correct fix?

any chance you can repost the firmware link? I want to try to put the firmware back on the TV in hopes of fixing my HDMI issue... thanks!

Sure, it looks like the following web-site also has the files. There's a small link in the top right-hand part of the screen which gets you past the ad-page.

TV Firmware (either 4.05 or 4.06, not sure):

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=DX8X5O0J

TV Service Manual (v26):

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=OMFZ8E7B

Anyone with similar problems, and does replacing a board sound like the correct fix?

See if you can find out which circuit board is being replaced. Also let us know if it fixes the problem.

Sure, it looks like the following web-site also has the files. There's a small link in the top right-hand part of the screen which gets you past the ad-page.

TV Firmware (either 4.05 or 4.06, not sure):

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=DX8X5O0J

TV Service Manual (v26):

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=OMFZ8E7B


thanks again... just need to get a CF card now and try it out. Thanks a bunch!

thanks again... just need to get a CF card now and try it out. Thanks a bunch!

Lets us know which firmware it is.

Does anyone know what format the CF card has to be formatted to in order for this to work? I have tried FAT and FAT32 with no luck. The TV does not load the firmware from the card at all. I am using a 128MB CF card....

Does anyone know what format the CF card has to be formatted to in order for this to work? I have tried FAT and FAT32 with no luck. The TV does not load the firmware from the card at all. I am using a 128MB CF card....

Just a thought, but could the size of the card matter? It has been a while, but I thought when Mits sent out the cards for FW updates, they were 64MB cards (I could be wrong about this - I didn't pay that much attention)...

Just an idea...

Just a thought, but could the size of the card matter? It has been a while, but I thought when Mits sent out the cards for FW updates, they were 64MB cards (I could be wrong about this - I didn't pay that much attention)...

Just an idea...


You are right... I think they are either 64MB or 32MB... I think they have to be FAT16 and a specific file allocation size to get the right cluster size.... either 1024 or 2048 I think.

You are right... I think they are either 64MB or 32MB... I think they have to be FAT16 and a specific file allocation size to get the right cluster size.... either 1024 or 2048 I think.

I can check when I get home from work, but I'm pretty sure the card I have is 128MB. I'll also check the file format. Did you change the name of the card to be what is indicated by the instructions?

POST-NOTE: my memory failed me on this one -- true card size was 256MB

I can check when I get home from work, but I'm pretty sure the card I have is 128MB. I'll also check the file format. Did you change the name of the card to be what is indicated by the instructions?


Instructions say name it "TOSHIBA 256M" which it can't be named... name can only be 11 characters... that is 12.

Instructions say name it "TOSHIBA 256M" which it can't be named... name can only be 11 characters... that is 12.

I checked my CF card -- the disk name was TOSHIBA256M (no space) and the size is 256 MB.

I checked my CF card -- the disk name was TOSHIBA256M (no space) and the size is 256 MB.


how was it formatted? FAT? FAT32? What block size?


Thanks for all the help...

how was it formatted? FAT? FAT32? What block size?

Thanks for all the help...

Looking at Properties, it appears the file system is FAT. I'm not sure what the block size is -- how do I check that?

Looking at Properties, it appears the file system is FAT. How do I check the block size?


not sure... You just have to format it for a specific block size... whatever though, I don't think I ever had the proper name in the first place. I have a 32MB card that I can try with as well. thanks for all the help!

It's about time for me to get a new lamp in my 52725. Looking around the internet for them, and I found that Lighting Technologies International sells an aftermarket one. It's not significantly cheaper than the actual Mitsubishi part, but I was just curious if anyone's tried one of their lamps.

http://www.ltilamps.com/

well, neither the 32MB card or the 128MB card work... I've tried all combinations of names and formats...

well, neither the 32MB card or the 128MB card work... I've tried all combinations of names and formats...

Hmm... I wonder what difference might be hanging it up (since it worked for me). Any firmware developers or coders out have any suggestions?

Might the TV be checking the permission settings of the files? Make sure "Archive" isn't checked. I can't imagine it would matter that you're not using a 256MB card.

Has anyone else tried to install this patch?

Question -- if my TV receives digital audio & video via the HDMI input, is it possible for the TV to pass the digital audio signal to the coax digital audio out? From what I can tell, the digital audio coax output will only take signals from the TV tuner, but I wanted to make sure I'm not missing something.

My apologies if this has already been covered...

Question -- if my TV receives digital audio & video via the HDMI input, is it possible for the TV to pass the digital audio signal to the coax digital audio out? From what I can tell, the digital audio coax output will only take signals from the TV tuner, but I wanted to make sure I'm not missing something.

My apologies if this has already been covered...

You will only get digital audio from the internal tuner as you suspect. I think the digital audio over HDMI is converted to analog and sent over the analog audio outputs.


BTW, the 256MB CF card did the trick. I was able to update the firmware, but it made no difference... my HDMI input still does not work.

Just cleaned the mirrors with the help of AVSforum. Just wondering about the faint lines. Is there a definitive answer on what is going on with my tv? I only get them through my component inputs. HDMI works fine, and I'm thinking about buying a switch for my DVD and dish. Any help is appreciated...

If you have cheap Component cables they will cause your lines. The cheap cables might be braking down. Or is picking up RF noise.

You will only get digital audio from the internal tuner as you suspect. I think the digital audio over HDMI is converted to analog and sent over the analog audio outputs.

Just to expand on that, I believe the 1394 inputs would also allow for digital audio out.

You are correct... they will... I have verified this...

If the cheap cables are causing my faint horizontal scrolling lines, what's the opinion on a good set of component cables? I ordered a HDMI switch for the DVD and Dish box, but it looks like the opinion here is that component preforms better? Opinions are appreciated...

If the cheap cables are causing my faint horizontal scrolling lines, what's the opinion on a good set of component cables? I ordered a HDMI switch for the DVD and Dish box, but it looks like the opinion here is that component preforms better? Opinions are appreciated...

Who said "component performs better?"? I've always used HDMI and it looks much better than component in my opinion. I only had the audio problem at the beginning, then Mits fixed by changing out the DM board and have had no problems since.

Who said "component performs better?"? I've always used HDMI and it looks much better than component in my opinion. I only had the audio problem at the beginning the Mits fixed by changing out the DM board and have had no problems since.

I have said this. Component looks tons better than HDMI on the WDxx525 and WDxx725.

HDMI gets converted into analog as soon as it enters the TV, and the converter doesn't do a very good job. Contrast is bad, colors are muted, etc...

Component is much more vibrant.

I have said this. Component looks tons better than HDMI on the WDxx525 and WDxx725.

HDMI gets converted into analog as soon as it enters the TV, and the converter doesn't do a very good job. Contrast is bad, colors are muted, etc...

Component is much more vibrant.

I have to disagree, once you make some needed adjustments to the color, contrast, brightness, etc. the picture looks much better using HDMI. That's true of my 62525 anyway.

I have to disagree, once you make some needed adjustments to the color, contrast, brightness, etc. the picture looks much better using HDMI. That's true of my 62525 anyway.

If anything I would tend to agree that Component would likely have the better picture.
On this model the HDMI signal is converted to analog RGB. So really there shouldnt be any difference. It's not like HDMI is actually a digital signal.

Mostly HDMI is more convienent to use due to only 1 cable for all (on this model).

Honestly, I don't see any major difference between the two. In my case, HDMI is certainly as good as component. I don't believe Shape is alone in having problems....I think I was just lucky....


Randy

When my HDMI input was working, I'd say it is just as good as component...

hello,

i just purchase the new Onkyo TX-Sr805 receiver , the receiver has a hdmi output which i am using to feed the video to my wd-62725, now i am noticing what i believe is called macroblocking, i don"t recall seeing this when i used the component cable from my previous receiver , does anyone have any input as to could the hdmi cable be causing this problem,,,

thanks

eric

It has been a long time since I visited this forum. I bought my WD-6275 in Sept 04 had it professionally calibrated and have had not a bit of problem until last night. Has any one experienced this? All of a sudden a dark 2 inch wide line 3 inches from the bottom of the screen has developed, it spans the with of the screen side to side. I will call tech support about it tomorrow but checking here to see if anyone has heard of this. I have had zero problems with this set but now maybe I have an excuse to get a a new set! I wonder how the wife will react to that event.

It has been a long time since I visited this forum. I bought my WD-6275 in Sept 04 had it professionally calibrated and have had not a bit of problem until last night. Has any one experienced this? All of a sudden a dark 2 inch wide line 3 inches from the bottom of the screen has developed, it spans the with of the screen side to side. I will call tech support about it tomorrow but checking here to see if anyone has heard of this. I have had zero problems with this set but now maybe I have an excuse to get a a new set! I wonder how the wife will react to that event.

Can you post a picture? Has the line grown larger since the problem emerged?

You will only get digital audio from the internal tuner as you suspect. I think the digital audio over HDMI is converted to analog and sent over the analog audio outputs.


BTW, the 256MB CF card did the trick. I was able to update the firmware, but it made no difference... my HDMI input still does not work.

Thanks for the response. I ended up running the digital audio directly to the receiver. Sorry to hear that the HDMI still won't work.

Thanks for the response. I ended up running the digital audio directly to the receiver. Sorry to hear that the HDMI still won't work.

no problem...

I am fairly certain now that the TVs HDMI port is at fault. I took my DVD player over to my brother in laws house and hooked it up to his Samsung plasma, and it worked flawlessly. The TVs HDCP handshake is definitely the culprit... the question remains... do I just live without HDMI for now and pick up a new TV a few months down the line, or do I risk debugging the HDMI problem and possibly end up with a non-working set altogether... either way though, I think a new TV is in order maybe early next year... and I can say with certainty, it will absolutely not be a Mitsubishi.

Can you post a picture? Has the line grown larger since the problem emerged?

No, the line stayed the same 2 inches wide 3 inches up from the bottom. I had the service people out today after a look see and call to Mitz. he informed me it needed a new light engine. He said I would hear in about a week when they could change this out. I said I paid over $300 for a professional calibration now it would have to be done again, and he said, get this, "the light engines come already calibrated from the factory":confused:. I said yeah right, look this thing is 3 years old do they still repair them ( I have an extended warranty). He said sometimes they just replace with a new set. I'm hoping that may be the case a 1080P replacement would be nice.

i have the wd-62725, i know the general cleaning procedure ( lens, mirrors ) and have done it at least 3 times, my question is referring to the inside surface of the screen does anyone have info on the proper cleaning of it, i have stayed away from cleaning it but have noticed some dirt and smudges on it, it seems to have a textured surface and wouldn't want to use the wrong cleaning technique.. now i am not referring to the glare screen , i am referring to the part of the screen that is inside of the TV, the backside of the main screen that is protected by the glare screen.

thanks

No, the line stayed the same 2 inches wide 3 inches up from the bottom. I had the service people out today after a look see and call to Mitz. he informed me it needed a new light engine. He said I would hear in about a week when they could change this out. I said I paid over $300 for a professional calibration now it would have to be done again, and he said, get this, "the light engines come already calibrated from the factory":confused:. I said yeah right, look this thing is 3 years old do they still repair them ( I have an extended warranty). He said sometimes they just replace with a new set. I'm hoping that may be the case a 1080P replacement would be nice.

I'm glad to hear you have a warranty -- a 1080p upgrade would be nice.

I previously read some discussion of a problem with Toshiba sets where a darkened line would appear and slowly grow. It was traced to be caused by a shifting mirror in the "light tunnel" (apparently, several mirrors are used to reflect the DMD output to the mirror that reflects the image onto the big screen). A DIY fix was posted that involved disassembling the light engine. I haven't heard of this problem occurring with our Mits sets though.

I will keep you posted as to how this turns out.

Hey all,

About two weeks ago, I had to replace the bulb in my 52525. This week, I've started having a problem with it:

The first time I turn on the TV on any day, it fails to turn on and the red "replace lamp" indicator turns on. If I unplug the TV for 10 seconds or so, then power it up, the power light fast-flashes green for about 20 seconds, then turns off. From that point on, I can turn on the TV and it works just fine, and continues to turn on/off for the rest of the day.

The next day, it fails again, and I have to repeat the process.

Has anyone encountered this?

Thanks!

The first time I turn on the TV on any day, it fails to turn on and the red "replace lamp" indicator turns on. If I unplug the TV for 10 seconds or so, then power it up, the power light fast-flashes green for about 20 seconds, then turns off. From that point on, I can turn on the TV and it works just fine, and continues to turn on/off for the rest of the day. Thanks!

I'd be interested in seeing if this condition worsens. The fact that you so recently replaced the bulb makes the bulb a prime candidate. It may be that the new bulb is slightly defective and will only light after a failed attempt (with the initial failed attempt creating a higher bulb temperature and internal gas pressure that somehow helps the ignite/stabilization process in the second attempt). Does your new bulb have a return policy? Where did you buy it from?

Did you reset the lamp timer?

I reset the lamp timer when I first replaced the lamp. Since then, I haven't; I'll try resetting it again and see if that fixes it.

88380

88381

88382

Hello,

I just moved from Anchorage, AK to Denver, CO. My household goods were professionally moved. When I powered up my DLP TV I saw this black void in the bottom right-hand corner. Please look at the attached photos and let me know if anyone might know what is causing this. Should I have an Authorized Mitsubishi technician come out and look at this?

Thanks.

Looks to me like something just came loose (tape, foam?) and is sitting on the light engine projection lens. If you remove the front panel (see instructions elsewhere in this thread for cleaning the mirrors) I'll bet it will be very obvious to fix.

The first time I turn on the TV on any day, it fails to turn on and the red "replace lamp" indicator turns on. If I unplug the TV for 10 seconds or so, then power it up, the power light fast-flashes green for about 20 seconds, then turns off. From that point on, I can turn on the TV and it works just fine, and continues to turn on/off for the rest of the day.

The next day, it fails again, and I have to repeat the process.

Has anyone encountered this?

Thanks!

I have this problem as well... But I notice if the room is 70 degrees or cooler.. the red light wont come on and it will just turn on... any idea and how much this is gonna cost to fix?

88380

88381

88382

Hello,

I just moved from Anchorage, AK to Denver, CO. My household goods were professionally moved. When I powered up my DLP TV I saw this black void in the bottom right-hand corner. Please look at the attached photos and let me know if anyone might know what is causing this. Should I have an Authorized Mitsubishi technician come out and look at this?

Thanks.


remove the screen, and you will surely find the problem... the main lens is being obstructed.

I have this problem as well... But I notice if the room is 70 degrees or cooler.. the red light wont come on and it will just turn on... any idea and how much this is gonna cost to fix?

My recommendation would to first check the bulb, then the ballast inputs. ltw9 and I both had an issue with swollen caps on the power board that caused a bad 5V supply line. If those caps are just on the threshold of going bad, it might cause the observables you're seeing. Overall, there's a lot of good troubleshooting tips on this thread. A repair bill would probably run at least $600...

remove the screen, and you will surely find the problem... the main lens is being obstructed.Ya, you could wait for a repair tech, or fix it easily within about 1 hour by yourself.

I received private correspondence from another individual having red indicator light issues. Please review the exchange below and share any insights you might have.

I have similar problem like you had.
You suggested "check pin 5 (the orange lead) of J14... should get 5V and then drop. A constant 5V means bad ballast, and anything else -- especially a drop to 0V means a bad light engine".

Can you tell me where I can find J14?

Thank you in advance.

You can download the service manual at:

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=OMFZ8E7B

The connectors inside the TV are labeled... see the last page of the manual for help.

Thank you for your reply. I already bought manual and located J14. You suggested that if the voltage is constant 5V then, it is due to defective Ballast.
However I found some other information about it.
Here is the link: http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=20219&page=1

Ref: WD-52525
From the Mits's service website a tech was gracious enough (or forgetful enough) to leave the following open on a computer. Now you can explain exactly what you think is wrong, before a service tech wastes their time and yours coming out (again), poking around like a blind man in a candy store, and leaving 2 hours later having accomplished nothing.
Maybe it'll help you avoid the same.

Quote:
Model Number: WD-52525
Symptom: Shuts Down With Red Lamp LED
Cause #1

1.Unit powers on and works properly for a while then shuts off with a red lamp LED (lamp error). Suspect bad lamp part # 915P020010
2. Lamp enable line at J14 does not switch to 5 volts after turn on, 12 and 5 volt supplies are good. Suspect the Light Engine part # 939P977010
3. At power on the lamp turns on and off three times and then the unit shuts down with a red lamp LED (lamp error). Replace the Light Engine part # 939P977010
4. Check for 12-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 4 on the Engine Driver PCB, if missing check for an open F9A09 on the Power PCB, if it is open replace F9A09 part # 283P127060 and the Light Engine part # 939P977010
5. Lamp enable line at J14 connector on the Engine Driver PCB switches to 5 volts after turn on but does not go back to 0-volts (low) after 5 seconds, 12 and 5 volt supplies are good. Suspect the Light Engine part # 939P977010
6. Check for 5-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 1 and 2 on the Engine Driver PCB if missing replace the Power PCB part # 930B921002.

In this case, getting the 3 short blinks which indicate "DMD or Lamp Fan Stopped" and the error code 37, which seems to further support that.

(end of quote)

I found My TV has contant 5V(orange lead) at J-14 with good 5V pin 1&2 and 12V pin 4 at J-9 which suggests bad light engine instead of bad ballast.

Before I buy a light engine I would like to have your opinion about it. Is it bad ballast or light engine.
I would be greatly appreciated if you tell me your opinion about it.

Final reply by me:

There does appear to be mixed messages being posted at various websites. I'm basing my info on:

http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/archive/index.php/t-30512.html

and

http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/archive/index.php/t-31754.html

The 1st link is especially relevant because UMD_terp then replaced his ballast with success (see http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=444566&pp=30&page=137 and http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=444566&pp=30&page=139).

My best guess at what TV does during startup is as follows:

1. The light engine sends a 5V signal to the ballast, telling it to light the lamp.

2. The ballast attempts to light the lamp. If the ignite is successful, it returns an active low on the LAMPLITZ pin.

3. Once the light engine registers the LAMPLITZ signal, it then pulls the LAMPEN back down to 0.

So in your case, if LAMPEN 5V is staying at 5V, I believe that means either:

1. the ballast is failing to light the lamp and is bad.

2. the lamp lights but the light engine fails to register it so everything shuts down.

If your lamp never turns on at all during startup, then it might be #1 above. Also, UMD_terp mentioned that the FS1 fuse on his ballast card had high impedance. You might want to check that.

My surmises are based on what I've read, but I've never had a bad ballast board. I'll post this to the XX725 Owners forum here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=444566&pp=30&page=153) to see if UMD_terp or anyone else has comments.

Good luck, and let me know how it turns out.

sounds all good to me... if the lamp never lights up even for a split second, it is the ballast. The only way to verify that the lamp is not lighting is by turning the set on and actually viewing the lamp itself.

sounds all good to me... if the lamp never lights up even for a split second, it is the ballast. The only way to verify that the lamp is not lighting is by turning the set on and actually viewing the lamp itself.

Someone apparently obtained the troubleshooting steps Mitsu gives their techs for the red lamp LED problem:

(start of quote)

Model Number: WD-52525
Symptom: Shuts Down With Red Lamp LED
Cause #1

1. Unit powers on and works properly for a while then shuts off with a red lamp LED (lamp error). Suspect bad lamp part # 915P020010

2. Lamp enable line at J14 does not switch to 5 volts after turn on, 12 and 5 volt supplies are good. Suspect the Light Engine part # 939P977010

3. At power on the lamp turns on and off three times and then the unit shuts down with a red lamp LED (lamp error). Replace the Light Engine part # 939P977010

4. Check for 12-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 4 on the Engine Driver PCB, if missing check for an open F9A09 on the Power PCB, if it is open replace F9A09 part # 283P127060 and the Light Engine part # 939P977010

5. Lamp enable line at J14 connector on the Engine Driver PCB switches to 5 volts after turn on but does not go back to 0-volts (low) after 5 seconds, 12 and 5 volt supplies are good. Suspect the Light Engine part # 939P977010

6. Check for 5-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 1 and 2 on the Engine Driver PCB if missing replace the Power PCB part # 930B921002.

(end of quote)

noplasma again: I think #5 above is in error. Wouldn't a bad ballast be more likely? Wasn't that your experience -- that is, your LAMPEN was at 5V and never dropped to 0V?

Depends... the steps make no mention of the LAMPLITz pin which should drop after the lamp has fired up. The line dropping in turn causes the LAMPEN pin to drop in response. If LAMPLITz does indeed drop and then the LAMPEN just floats, it is the light engine...

The 1st attached picture shows a suspected ballast (lamp-EN on the bottom).
The 2nd is listed as either lamp or ballast. (it appears Mits cannot really tell which is bad for certain).

My rule of thumb has been, if the Ballast arcs 3 times (as it should), then it is good. Although that certainly isnt 100%.

The 1st attached picture shows a suspected ballast (lamp-EN on the bottom).
The 2nd is listed as either lamp or ballast. (it appears Mits cannot really tell which is bad for certain).

My rule of thumb has been, if the Ballast arcs 3 times (as it should), then it is good. Although that certainly isnt 100%.

I'm curious, what document do those figures come from? It's interesting that in the second graph that LAMPEN drops from 5V to 0V before 5 seconds elapses and that transition occurs while LAMPLITz is 5V constant. It seems like the light engine is bad in that case.

UMD_Terp, did you observe the LAMPEN to drop back to 0V after 5 seconds (as depicted in hipnotiq's first graph) or did it stay high indefinitely? If it's the latter, I wonder if the light engine won't switch off LAMPEN (once 5 seconds is up) if LAMPLITz (from the ballast) is floating.

I wonder if the light engine won't switch off LAMPEN (once 5 seconds is up) if LAMPLITz (from the ballast) is floating.


From what I saw with my bad ballast was that LAMPLITz just kind of floated and that in turn never drew the LAMPEN down either. THe way you describe it is the way I saw it.

One point of qualification... I was just using a voltmeter to do my rough measurements. Depending on the switching times, you may need a oscilloscope to properly probe these points. A voltmeter will only get you so far in diagnosing things, but it seemed to work for me.


Plus, the high voltage points will probably require a high impedance meter... your standard meter will cause a bit of a voltage drop due to a lower input impedance. In measuring the 340VDC line using my meter, I was only able to read around 315VDC...

One point of qualification... I was just using a voltmeter to do my rough measurements. Depending on the switching times, you may need a oscilloscope to properly probe these points. A voltmeter will only get you so far in diagnosing things, but it seemed to work for me.


Plus, the high voltage points will probably require a high impedance meter... your standard meter will cause a bit of a voltage drop due to a lower input impedance. In measuring the 340VDC line using my meter, I was only able to read around 315VDC...

That makes sense. I think I saw ~ 315VDC as well.

Those pics were from a optical trouble shooting document Mits has on their website.
Heres a couple more: 1st one shows a part of a flow chat that would indicate ballast when 5V remains high. Perhaps like umd's unit?
2nd one shows expected operation.

Those pics were from a optical trouble shooting document Mits has on their website.
Heres a couple more: 1st one shows a part of a flow chat that would indicate ballast when 5V remains high. Perhaps like umd's unit?
2nd one shows expected operation.

that makes sense... thanks for the info... :) hopefully it helps people identify the issues they are having...

that makes sense... thanks for the info... :) hopefully it helps people identify the issues they are having...

Thanks hipnotiq -- the info you provided is great. I think there's enough info available here now for anyone to distinguish between whether a light engine, power supply, or ballast card is causing the red lamp indicator problem (although it might require an oscilloscope). In the case of the person I was corresponding with, it turned out that replacing his light engine fixed his problem.

hipnotiq -- Do you have a link for the Mitsubishi web-site resource you mentioned or is it only accessible by certified techs?

Hey guys, picked up this TV shortly after it was introduced. Finally had to replace the bulb for the first time. When I put the new bulb in (old one still working fine) I got a fatal bulb error on the new bulb (red steady light) so I tried again and got the same thing. So figuring that the bulb was DOA I put the old one back in (it was still working when it was removed) and now it's getting the same fatal bulb error and not showing a picture. Any help would be appreciated.

Hey guys, picked up this TV shortly after it was introduced. Finally had to replace the bulb for the first time. When I put the new bulb in (old one still working fine) I got a fatal bulb error on the new bulb (red steady light) so I tried again and got the same thing. So figuring that the bulb was DOA I put the old one back in (it was still working when it was removed) and now it's getting the same fatal bulb error and not showing a picture. Any help would be appreciated.



you need to go through the debugging steps posted in the past few posts... it's either a light engine, power supply, or ballast issue.

If you are lucky, it may just be the physical bulb connector that is the problem. Some had a tendency to slip out of the cage and not make a good contact with the bulb.

Any help would be appreciated.

As UMD_Terp mentioned, definitely make sure the bulb is making good contact. If it is, then the next steps require a little more effort.

You can download the service manual at:

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=OMFZ8E7B

That'll help you with opening up the TV. Once you have it open, there's there connector labeled "J14" near the middle of the back. You'll need to observe pins #5 and #6 (LAMPLITZ and LAMPEN) while you start up your TV. Pin #7 (5Vs) should read as 5V.

To summarize some of the ground covered recently:

1. If 5Vs doesn't read 5V, then you probably have a bad power supply board. Several of us had issues with swollen capacitors that can be readily replaced. Look at http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=444566&pp=30&page=147 for help.

2. When you start the TV, if LAMPEN goes to 5V & remains there but LAMPLITZ floats (between 0 and 5V), then it's likely a bad ballast board. This is what I believe UMD_Terp experienced.

3. If LAMPEN goes to 5V, then goes to 0V after 5 seconds but LAMPLITZ stays high, then it's likely a bad ballast board. (LAMPLITZ may briefly go low if the initial lighting of the lamp is successful but will return to high once it fails)

4. Another other behaviors with LAMPEN & LAMPLITZ are likely indicators of a bad light engine.

Good luck!

hipnotiq -- Do you have a link for the Mitsubishi web-site resource you mentioned or is it only accessible by certified techs?

http://www.3diamonds.com/
Unfortunatley, as you mentioned, this is for autherized repair tech only :(

Hey guys, picked up this TV shortly after it was introduced. Finally had to replace the bulb for the first time. When I put the new bulb in (old one still working fine) I got a fatal bulb error on the new bulb (red steady light) so I tried again and got the same thing. So figuring that the bulb was DOA I put the old one back in (it was still working when it was removed) and now it's getting the same fatal bulb error and not showing a picture. Any help would be appreciated.

Just for clarification: you did mean solid RED LAMP LED not not status LED?

I have seen people in this forum mention this exact situation before. I believe some of them were able to get it working by reattempting the lamp install a few times.
However, others were not. (seems strange the old lamp wont work anymore)

It MUST be a lamp connection issue.

Just for clarification: you did mean solid RED LAMP LED not not status LED?

I have seen people in this forum mention this exact situation before. I believe some of them were able to get it working by reattempting the lamp install a few times.
However, others were not. (seems strange the old lamp wont work anymore)

It MUST be a lamp connection issue.

He's probably referring to the LAMP LED since he purchased a new bulb. The problem with hardware issues involving the lamp is that the TV can't distinguish between a burn-out bulb, bad 5V supply, bad ballast, and bad light engine. All give the same solid red LAMP LED indicator. So all of us who had HW problems unnecessarily bought a new bulb even though the old bulb was fine. $250 wasted straight out the gate. (well, I'll probably need it within another 2 yrs)

I hope for his sake that it's something as simple as a bad/jammed bulb connection -- but I think more and more TV's are showing latent hardware defects now.

I would guess that it is a loose connector on the back of the bulb. As was mentioned earlier, this has happened to several people in this forum. They install a new bulb, and it pushes the connector (on the TV side) out of its holder and they have to open the back of the TV to reseat the connector.

That was the first thing that came to mind when I read the description of the issue (even before reading the responses).

I just put in a new bulb assembly. After I cleaned the inside of the TV. I feel that the brightness has left my TV for good. Am I seeing things or does the TV finally dim after a few years?
I thought it might be seeing all of the LCD's, Plasmas, etc at the local Magnolia that might have me spoiled. I don't know what to think.
Are there other's who have this same thought? Is there any way to brighten the screen. Oh, it also has a somewhat green tint to everything. I tried "auto" and "Perfect Color" and manually adjusting the color bars, but nothing seems to help.
I have tried to search the forum for something similar, but nothing seems to come up.
Please, any response will be greatly appreciated.

Lyle

I have the 52725...

I did a search in this thread and couldn't find anything on my problem...

Anybody found a viable solution in putting a medium to large sized center channel speaker on top of their Mitsu? I've read in another section here someone finding a shelf rack in Lowes but he had a different type of HDTV.

Any input is appreciated, tia.

The attatched pix will probably be helpful to you. I had this problem when I got new speakers.
The metal shelf I think I got at CC and the board from Home Depot or someplace like that.
The board is a prepainted black shelf-- 3 foot long X 1 foot wide X 1/2" thick.
It fits great on the back of the shroud.
I put velcro strips on the back of the board and laid it onto the shroud that way so it isn't permanently glued onto the TV.
The shelf is a metal one, very substantial. I can't find the box it came in, but you can see what it consists of from the pix.
Hope this helps....

Lyle

My 3 year old 62725 (which has been a great TV for the past 3 years) started to give pictures that were heavily emphasized in green and red. It looked Robin Hood's merry men (all dressed in forest green) and blue skies were green. I also started to see some very momentary appearances of picture break-up that showed as very thin straight lines. Oddly, some HD cable programs seemed to be okay, but you could generally see the red/green bias. I played DVDs with the same result, so it's the Mits that is causing the problem.
I called a Mits service center recommended by my 4 year warranty provider (also recommended by a local home theater expert) and they said it sounded liket he color wheel, but Mits forces them to replace the entire light engine under these circumstances.
Now after 2 weeks of consistent problem, and just as I'm about to make my service appointment, the TV has snapped back into shape!!!
I hate "intermittent" problems!!!
Any thoughts, advice???
THnaks in advance for your help!
ps, I installed a new lamp about 2 months before this problem started to appear.

I also started to see some very momentary appearances of picture break-up that showed as very thin straight lines.

This doesn't sound like a color wheel problem:

1. Color wheel issues usually cause a new whirring sound

2. If the color wheel is out of sync with the DMD mirror oscillations, you would get consistent color effects across the entire screen -- but not 'momentary picture break-up with very thin straight lines'.

3. The effect would not be influenced by the media source.

I hope the problem doesn't come back, but it seems to me it could be either an issue with the Formatter or DM boards (in the electrical chassis) or the DMD board (in the light engine).

very thin vertical lines indicate a light engine issue. I had that same problem and I needed a new light engine.

very thin vertical lines indicate a light engine issue. I had that same problem and I needed a new light engine.

Jeesh, you had a bad light engine AND a bad ballast??

To Noplasma: Thanks for your help!
You said....
"If the color wheel is out of sync with the DMD mirror oscillations, you would get consistent color effects across the entire screen -- but not 'momentary picture break-up with very thin straight lines'."

Just to clarify, the momentary (blinking) thin straight lines are horizontal and occur at the same time as the red/green color dominance.

I think I will mention your thoughts on the problem, but also insist up them changing the light engine.

Jeesh, you had a bad light engine AND a bad ballast??

ha... not just a single one, but I have had the light engine replaced twice. One was for the lines and the freaking football shaped rainbow in the middle of the screen that Mitsubishi claimed was normal, and then the second light engine due to excessive dust that was actually inside the projection lens.

Light engine, ballast, and hardware chassis... three major components... all three have been failuires now with the HDMI port being dead... :rolleyes: I am waiting for the mirrors to crack over time just for completeness.

To Noplasma: Thanks for your help!
You said....
"If the color wheel is out of sync with the DMD mirror oscillations, you would get consistent color effects across the entire screen -- but not 'momentary picture break-up with very thin straight lines'."

Just to clarify, the momentary (blinking) thin straight lines are horizontal and occur at the same time as the red/green color dominance.

I think I will mention your thoughts on the problem, but also insist up them changing the light engine.
It is difficult to troubleshoot something over the phone much less an internet forum.
But I find it interesting that the problem occurred and dissapeared.
Part of the symptoms you described could be related to the DVI cable connection to the engine or the FMT board.
I recall this model having some issues with that cable/connection.

Possibly a reinstall of the cable could resolve the issue.

ha... not just a single one, but I have had the light engine replaced twice. One was for the lines and the freaking football shaped rainbow in the middle of the screen that Mitsubishi claimed was normal, and then the second light engine due to excessive dust that was actually inside the projection lens.

Light engine, ballast, and hardware chassis... three major components... all three have been failuires now with the HDMI port being dead... :rolleyes: I am waiting for the mirrors to crack over time just for completeness.

I'd say they owe you a new TV for all the trouble. There are lemon laws for cars, why not for TVs too??

I'd say they owe you a new TV for all the trouble. There are lemon laws for cars, why not for TVs too??

The dealer is a total joke... those a$$holes will never get a dime from me ever again. Once the TV is sold, all they do is stand behind whatever crap Mitsubishi feeds them and that is it. Getting a new TV out of Mitsubishi is out of the question, as I have tried already.

The servicer, the dealer, and Mitsubishi have my repair history. I've written letters to them to no avail... as far as I am concerned, I am done with dealing with Mitsubishi Electric and the Big Screen Store (local MD chain) as a whole.

OK, question for the Mits guru's. I got home last night and my 52725 was making the same sound when a PC fan is going out. The fan was whining and the speed was going up and down, now today the TV shuts off and the status light is blinking. Three faster blinks and a slow fourth blink if that helps any.

My problem is I reset the TV so I could pinpoint the fan that was the culprit and the TV goes into status mode right away. Any tips on how to figure out what fan went or do I maybe have a more serious problem?


jthill

when the TV is shut down, press the DEVICE and MENU buttons simultaneously and then count the number of fast blinks... there should be a code... fast blinks, pause, then more fast blinks. Count the number.

My problem is I reset the TV so I could pinpoint the fan that was the culprit and the TV goes into status mode right away. Any tips on how to figure out what fan went or do I maybe have a more serious problem?
jthill

The flashing LEDs means that either the DMD or Lamp Fan (in the light engine) has stopped

Download the service manual at http://www.megaupload.com/?d=OMFZ8E7B for help at locating the fan. Good luck.

when the TV is shut down, press the DEVICE and MENU buttons simultaneously and then count the number of fast blinks... there should be a code... fast blinks, pause, then more fast blinks. Count the number.


This gives me 37373737 I'm guessing the code is 37 just repeated.

DMD fan or lamp fan failure... just like noplasma stated...

The flashing LEDs means that either the DMD or Lamp Fan (in the light engine) has stopped

Download the service manual at http://www.megaupload.com/?d=OMFZ8E7B for help at locating the fan. Good luck.

You're correct sir, thanks for the manual location! Now where does everyone buy their service parts from? :)

If it is just fans, I think you can just look for 5V and 12V DC fans... the lamp fan is a 12VDC fan and the DMD fan is a 5VDC fan. I would suspect, any PC supply place might have them.

DMD fan or lamp fan failure... just like noplasma stated...
I would short across the fan sensor/DC to verify the TV still runs.
That will verify if fan is defective or power supply.

I suspect that fans rarely fail when compared to voltage regulators.

I would guess that it is a loose connector on the back of the bulb. As was mentioned earlier, this has happened to several people in this forum. They install a new bulb, and it pushes the connector (on the TV side) out of its holder and they have to open the back of the TV to reseat the connector.

That was the first thing that came to mind when I read the description of the issue (even before reading the responses).

You win the golden nugget award! The connector had pushed out of the rear of the bulb socket. A couple of screws and about 1 hour later and she's going great. Thanks guys!

I would short across the fan sensor/DC to verify the TV still runs.
That will verify if fan is defective or power supply.

I suspect that fans rarely fail when compared to voltage regulators.

I heard the fan failing last night, unless the power supply would go slowly and make the fan slow down and speed up irregularly. The fans were silent until last night also, one was making a garbage disposal sound. :D

I heard the fan failing last night, unless the power supply would go slowly and make the fan slow down and speed up irregularly. The fans were silent until last night also, one was making a garbage disposal sound. :D

Movable mechanical parts carry a higher risk for damage & degradation. Sounds like the fan has a worn/dry sleeve bearing & should be replaced.

Hello -

Does anyone else have this problem?

Whenever I turn on my 62725 it comes up tuned to a "odd" channel. One that I never watch. The TV always turns on tuned to this "odd" channel no matter what channel was selected when the TV was last turn off. I say "odd" because I can't figure out what channel it is. Say the the TV was tuned to channel 11 when turned off. At the next TV turn on the info in the upper left corner will show channel 11 but the TV will be tuned to the "odd" channel.

At the next TV turn on the info in the upper left corner will show channel 11 but the TV will be tuned to the "odd" channel.

Sounds like something is hokey. You might try upgrading to the latest firmware, if you haven't already.

Thanks noplasma -

I did upgrade the software a couple of years ago. What is the latest version number?

Thanks noplasma -

I did upgrade the software a couple of years ago. What is the latest version number?

I believe V4.06 is the latest...

Hello -

Does anyone else have this problem?

Whenever I turn on my 62725 it comes up tuned to a "odd" channel. One that I never watch. The TV always turns on tuned to this "odd" channel no matter what channel was selected when the TV was last turn off. I say "odd" because I can't figure out what channel it is. Say the the TV was tuned to channel 11 when turned off. At the next TV turn on the info in the upper left corner will show channel 11 but the TV will be tuned to the "odd" channel.
You are using an RF feed and not a cable box right?
Are you using cablecard?

Does it only happen on channel 11 or multiple different channels?
If your remote has a GUIDE button, try pressing that to find out the actual channel. If it doesnt have a guide button, then goto menu>channels and try to figure out what channel it is tunning to and then delete that channel.

You are using an RF feed and not a cable box right?
Are you using cablecard?

Does it only happen on channel 11 or multiple different channels?
If your remote has a GUIDE button, try pressing that to find out the actual channel. If it doesnt have a guide button, then goto menu>channels and try to figure out what channel it is tunning to and then delete that channel.

I was also kind of wondering what happens if you hit channel up or channel down from there....

Randy

This has probably been asked before, I did a search, but couldn't readily find the info .................... I just got the "yellow" light, saying hurry up and get a replacement lamp. What's the best deal out there? Are there off market replacement lamps to avoid? Bad dealers? Great dealers? What/how should I go about securing the best deal, quality and money wise? Any tips will be appreciated.

Thank you

Check with Excel distributing and Discount Merchant, as well as others. Your best prices may be for the bulb only without the housing, just make sure that it is the original Osram lamp and not a "compatible" or "replacement" lamp. Anything that even smells like an LTI lamp should be avoided. As a dealer, I find the difference in the price is usually not worth the trouble and Mitsubishi is similar in price to the other suppliers. For a consumer, however, Mitsubishi sells only at retail.

The key is to get the original Osram lamp, as they are the OEM for Mitsubishi. If you replace the lamp in the old cartridge, be sure to be clean in handling. Any oils from your hands will cook on the glass and could cause failure or distortion.

Changed my bulb today. Red lamp indicator came on with no yellow warning indicator. I put in a new bulb with housing and still get a red lamp indicator light. I checked the code by pressing the device and menu keys at the same time and always get error number 34 (bulb abnomality); both new and old bulb - same error!!! Does anyone have any suggestions?

Changed my bulb today. Red lamp indicator came on with no yellow warning indicator. I put in a new bulb with housing and still get a red lamp indicator light. I checked the code by pressing the device and menu keys at the same time and always get error number 34 (bulb abnomality); both new and old bulb - same error!!! Does anyone have any suggestions?

I think the previous page mentions this exact situation. You should check that the lamp-ballast connection was made properly. Sometimes the connector could get pushed back.
At least it fixed that guys TV.

I have the 52725 (720P) and I am curious what would happen if you feed a 1080P signal into the HDMI input? I am thinking about buying a HD or BluRay DVD and my understanding is that these output a 1080P signal. The specifications for the 52725 do not list 1080P as an acceptable source.

I have the 52725 (720P) and I am curious what would happen if you feed a 1080P signal into the HDMI input? I am thinking about buying a HD or BluRay DVD and my understanding is that these output a 1080P signal. The specifications for the 52725 do not list 1080P as an acceptable source.

It doesn't work. I have a PS3 hooked up to a different 1080p TV, and moved it once to the Mits and I forgot to set it to a lower resolution. It wouldn't show an image. I had to reset the PS3 to a lower resolution before it would show anything.

Watched the bulb fire up, but it only stays on for about three seconds and then goes back out... thinking it is not getting enough power... any help??

still battling the new bulb as mentioned above... I can watch the new bulb turn on for about three seconds, but it goes back out.. don't know what to do??

Watched the bulb fire up, but it only stays on for about three seconds and then goes back out... thinking it is not getting enough power... any help??

possibly a light engine failure... or a power supply issue.

still battling the new bulb as mentioned above... I can watch the new bulb turn on for about three seconds, but it goes back out.. don't know what to do??

Out of curiosity, does the old bulb show similar behavior? (If the problem is with the TV, then old bulb probably didn't really burn out and both the old & new bulbs would behave similarly).

Assuming the bulb is ok (and that you haven't accidentally pushed the bulb housing connector out of socket), I'll provide you the next troubleshooting steps. First, a little background: when the TV tries to light the lamp, it goes through several stages. Initially, the ballast card sends a very high voltage pulse that ignites an arc through the gas in the bulb. Next, it conditions the current to maintain a particular voltage while the lamp warms and reaches an equilibrium state. It seems as though this second phase is failing. Throughout the entire process, the light engine sends control & synchronization pulses to the ballast card. So your problem is likely either the light engine or the power supply. It's also possible that the ballast card is bad, but less likely since it's successfully completing the 1st stage of lighting the lamp.

If you want to troubleshoot this on your own, you'll first need the service manual, which can be downloaded at:

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=OMFZ8E7B

Once you get the TV opened, check all of the power supply inputs to the ballast card. If any of them are off, it's likely a power supply issue (several of us had issues with swollen capacitors that can be readily replaced -- see http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=444566&pp=30&page=147 for help). If the voltage are ok, then it's likely either the ballast card or the light engine. You'll need to monitor the control lines between the two to differentiate where the problem lies. The steps below will help you with that process:

1. There's there connector labeled "J14" near the middle of the back of the TV. You'll need to observe pins #5 and #6 (LAMPLITZ and LAMPEN) while you start up your TV.

2. When you start the TV, if LAMPEN goes to 5V & remains there but LAMPLITZ floats (between 0 and 5V), then it's likely a bad ballast board.

3. If LAMPEN goes to 5V, then goes to 0V after 5 seconds but LAMPLITZ stays high, then it's likely a bad ballast board. (LAMPLITZ may briefly go low if the initial lighting of the lamp is successful but will return to high once it fails)

4. Any other behaviors with LAMPEN & LAMPLITZ are likely indicators of a bad light engine.

Good luck!

Out of curiosity, does the old bulb show similar behavior? (If the problem is with the TV, then old bulb probably didn't really burn out and both the old & new bulbs would behave similarly).



Thanks for all your help guys. Sounds like the TV's were made cheap and the parts are starting to fail.. Not really sure about opening up the tv on my own. I did clean the mirrors with no problem, but this sounds a little more in depth. I have a serviceman scheduled for next Tue. Would like to help him diagnose the problem and these threads will do that. Is it a real chore to get to the capacitors and the test points?

thanks in advance noplasma

Looks like you guys solved another problem. Took some pics of the caps. Hope this helps me. Hopefully I will get the caps tomorrow. Looks a little daunting with it all torn apart. My wife thinks I'm nuts!!! Thanks for all the help. I'll keep you informed.

Movable mechanical parts carry a higher risk for damage & degradation. Sounds like the fan has a worn/dry sleeve bearing & should be replaced.

I tracked this down to the DMD fan, this fan is 12 volts/.7 watts/5500 rpm/10.6 CFM. I can find other fans from the same maker but not this exact model/specs. The other choices are.

12 volts/1.0 watts/4500 rpm/13.0 CFM

12 volts/1.3 watts/5500 rpm/13.3 CFM

Should I be concerned about the watts and more draw off the power supply?

Looks like you guys solved another problem. Took some pics of the caps. Hope this helps me. Hopefully I will get the caps tomorrow. Looks a little daunting with it all torn apart. My wife thinks I'm nuts!!! Thanks for all the help. I'll keep you informed.

Nice work, definitely looks like the swollen caps problem. Be sure to remove the old caps (and their leads) entirely by heating the solder on the board backside while pulling the caps upward (i.e., don't break or cut the caps off).

I'm sure it'll be a good feeling if you can fix your TV for a couple of bucks cost.

I tracked this down to the DMD fan, this fan is 12 volts/.7 watts/5500 rpm/10.6 CFM. I can find other fans from the same maker but not this exact model/specs. The other choices are.

12 volts/1.0 watts/4500 rpm/13.0 CFM
12 volts/1.3 watts/5500 rpm/13.3 CFM

Should I be concerned about the watts and more draw off the power supply?

I don't know what the specs on the TV power supply are, but you run the risk of tripping the over-current detection if you buy a fan that draws more current than expected.

I'd recommend finding a fan that does >=10.6 CFM (matches the previous air flow) and <= 0.7 watts (equal to or less than the previous current draw). I don't think RPMs matter, just make sure it moves enough air (CFM) and isn't too loud (dB).

Try looking at mouser.com for options:

http://www.mouser.com/search/Refine.aspx?Ne=1634435+1447464&N=1323038%201634435&Ns=P_SField&RefType=Header

Looks like you guys solved another problem. Took some pics of the caps. Hope this helps me. Hopefully I will get the caps tomorrow. Looks a little daunting with it all torn apart. My wife thinks I'm nuts!!! Thanks for all the help. I'll keep you informed.

How did your repair effort go?

After I cleaned the inside of the TV. I feel that the brightness has left my TV for good. Am I seeing things or does the TV finally dim after a few years?
I thought it might be seeing all of the LCD's, Plasmas, etc at the local Magnolia that might have me spoiled. I don't know what to think.
Are there other's who have this same thought? Is there any way to brighten the screen. Oh, it also has a somewhat green tint to everything. I tried "auto" and "Perfect Color" and manually adjusting the color bars, but nothing seems to help.
I have tried to search the forum for something similar, but nothing seems to come up.
Please, any response will be greatly appreciated.
Lyle

I've wondered the same thing. Perfect Color definitely screws up my HDMI input feed. It's difficult to know whether we're comparing our TVs to the latest vibrant models or some internal analog control aspect is degrading (the latter wouldn't surprise me given Mitsu's quality). One way to compensate (although you lessen other visual aspects such as dark darks) is to pump up the saturation, color, and brightness.

Has anyone tried a calibration DVD? Are they worth it? I'd also be interested in knowing if anyone has made a Blu-Ray calibration disc that could be run from my PS3...

Also, out of curiosity, have any troubleshooters out there ever checked the DM or Formatter boards for swollen caps? In theory, a slowing degrading cap in the wrong place could slowly degrade image quality.

How did your repair effort go?



I am still waiting on the caps. I am hoping they arrive today. Shouldn't take too long after that to know if thats the problem.

I am still waiting on the caps. I am hoping they arrive today. Shouldn't take too long after that to know if thats the problem.

I'm sure this is a newbie question, but which capacitors did you get? I know they need to be rated 3300 uF, but that's about all! Thanks in advance.

How did your repair effort go?



Finally, I can watch TV the right way again. I wonder how many people trash their tv's because of this problem. Hopefully I don't have a ton more problems. Least I know where to go for the good info.

I'm sure this is a newbie question, but which capacitors did you get? I know they need to be rated 3300 uF, but that's about all! Thanks in advance.

I stuck with the same brand, but ended up getting a little bigger one. Mine are 16v instead of 10v. Make sure you get the correct temp. rating. Get at least 105 degree. The one's I bought were physically too tall. I had to skip putting the metal cover back over the circuit board. I don't think it will be a problem, but if I did it over, I'd make sure they were close to the same height. I'm sure noplasma can shed more light on it than me. Good luck.

I stuck with the same brand, but ended up getting a little bigger one. Mine are 16v instead of 10v. Make sure you get the correct temp. rating. Get at least 105 degree. The one's I bought were physically too tall. I had to skip putting the metal cover back over the circuit board. I don't think it will be a problem, but if I did it over, I'd make sure they were close to the same height. I'm sure noplasma can shed more light on it than me. Good luck.
I imagine the metal cover provides some RF shielding for the circuitry. It might also channel airflow from the nearby fan across the board or act as a heat sink. But if it works without it, great.

I stuck with the same brand, but ended up getting a little bigger one. Mine are 16v instead of 10v. Make sure you get the correct temp. rating. Get at least 105 degree. The one's I bought were physically too tall. I had to skip putting the metal cover back over the circuit board. I don't think it will be a problem, but if I did it over, I'd make sure they were close to the same height. I'm sure noplasma can shed more light on it than me. Good luck.

Thanks for the reply; noplasma sent me a PM on the specific parts; they are on order and should arrive tomorrow. I am really hoping the capacitor replacement solves my problems...

Edit: I posted a link containing images of the failed capacitors on my board in another thread last night. Here's a link http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11729471#post11729471 to the post.

Looks like Mitsubishi still doesn't have the quality control to build a reliable TV set...

http://avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11733186#post11733186

this is what now, 4 years later and still BS like this on a brand new TV?

How many hours are on the set when the capacitors are failing? This is going out to all that replaced there capacitors. I'm am thinking about doing mine just to get it out of the way. So I will not have my set go down at the wrong time.
How long did it take to replace?

How many hours are on the set when the capacitors are failing? This is going out to all that replaced there capacitors. I'm am thinking about doing mine just to get it out of the way. So I will not have my set go down at the wrong time. How long did it take to replace?

I believe 5 cases of this have been confirmed in this forum to date, with the sets generally running about 3 yrs old. My TV had about 2000 hrs of use when the problem occurred.

Unfortunately, it's difficult to estimate a reliability rate when Mitsu likely sold tens of thousands of units & the only cases we can confirm are limited to those who post here. It's probable that the issue relates to a bad batch or lot of caps, so most TVs may be fine. I've read of people hitting 5000-6000 hrs of use, apparently with no issue.

Looks like Mitsubishi still doesn't have the quality control to build a reliable TV set...

http://avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11733186#post11733186

this is what now, 4 years later and still BS like this on a brand new TV?

So that's how they're able to sell these things for $2200 now... Seems like a flawed strategy. Maximize profits now while your reputation goes to hell.

Of course, our observations are primarily anecdotal. It would be interesting to see if Consumer Reports or a similar consumer advocacy group runs a study (as they've done with older lines of RPTVs).

Finally, I can watch TV the right way again. I wonder how many people trash their tv's because of this problem. Hopefully I don't have a ton more problems. Least I know where to go for the good info.

Congrats, glad to hear the repair was successful!

How many hours are on the set when the capacitors are failing? This is going out to all that replaced there capacitors. I'm am thinking about doing mine just to get it out of the way. So I will not have my set go down at the wrong time.
How long did it take to replace?

There does not seem to be a specific number of hours. The problem appears to be some of the Jamicon made caps that swell up. It is always that brand and none of the others in the sets. I suspect there was a problem in some of their production where the electrolyte was bad or some other problem existed. There may be some relation to external causes such as lightning or power surges, but I have not seen evidence of that. We sell dozens of each model and of the sets that we have sold, I have only seen four sets, among all models, that had swollen caps. One of them had them in five boards on a V26 chassis. Overall, the Mitsubishi sets have been very reliable for us and the problem is, for now, rather limited. I suspect as the sets age it may get worse, but it is impossible to know. If all of the caps are flawed, it likely will. If it is just a few that were made with bad materials, we may see a peak in the numbers then see the problem go away as they age.

I believe 5 cases of this have been confirmed in this forum to date, with the sets generally running about 3 yrs old. My TV had about 2000 hrs of use when the problem occurred.

Unfortunately, it's difficult to estimate a reliability rate when Mitsu likely sold tens of thousands of units & the only cases we can confirm are limited to those who post here. It's probable that the issue relates to a bad batch or lot of caps, so most TVs may be fine. I've read of people hitting 5000-6000 hrs of use, apparently with no issue.

Yes my set has about 6000 hrs on it.

One of them had [swollen caps] in five boards on a V26 chassis.

Thanks for the valuable info. Since I've had already had one instance of swelling caps, now I wonder if there could be others. Not to start a witch hunt, but I also wonder if that could be causing UMD_Terp's HDMI problem...

It would be a bitch to check all the chassis boards... but I've been wondering lately if the picture quality has been slowly degrading (the colors look dull, despite a recent mirror cleaning). I may do a check this weekend. Naturally, I'll post pictures if I find anything.

Yes my set has about 6000 hrs on it.

There's a good chance your caps are fine. The longer a part survives, the greater the probability it doesn't have any particular defect (see the red curve in the graph at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bathtub_curve).

There's a good chance your caps are fine. The longer a part survives, the greater the probability it doesn't have any particular defect (see the red curve in the graph at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bathtub_curve).


Maybe, maybe not. No way to know without checking. I would not bother unless the set is acting up. This chassis is a challenge and you could easily damage a ribbon cable or connector taking it apart and putting it back together. The number of problems with these sets have been relatively few compared to the number that we sold.

Maybe, maybe not. No way to know without checking. I would not bother unless the set is acting up. This chassis is a challenge and you could easily damage a ribbon cable or connector taking it apart and putting it back together. The number of problems with these sets have been relatively few compared to the number that we sold.

Hi Leonard,
I am curious...how do these sets (well, really Mits DLPs, in general) relate to the other brands you sell? I am not in the market now, but will be someday. I'd just like to know how the manufacturers stack up against each other....

Thanks,
Randy

Good question

Hi Leonard,
I am curious...how do these sets (well, really Mits DLPs, in general) relate to the other brands you sell? I am not in the market now, but will be someday. I'd just like to know how the manufacturers stack up against each other....

Thanks,
Randy

Well, we don't sell very many brands, mostly Sony and Mitsubishi. IMO both have been very reliable, especially in the past few years. Each has had some problems in certain models, but overall, I cold not keep busy servicing what we sell only. What I see from other brands that we service, and what I hear from other dealers, leads me to believe that these are two of the best brands in regards to service. Others that we have dropped in recent years are Panasonic and Sharp, partly for product reasons and partly for service. We occasionally sell most brands when there is a specific need and we also sell a few minor brands. If I was going to suggest adding a line to our mix it would be Hitachi and if they keep improving, LG. I have my reservations about the long term prospects for Mitsubishi, as they have been making some dumb moves lately, but the products continue to be a good choice. I rarely have to file warranty claims on them at all.

Well, we don't sell very many brands, mostly Sony and Mitsubishi. IMO both have been very reliable, especially in the past few years. Each has had some problems in certain models, but overall, I cold not keep busy servicing what we sell only. What I see from other brands that we service, and what I hear from other dealers, leads me to believe that these are two of the best brands in regards to service. Others that we have dropped in recent years are Panasonic and Sharp, partly for product reasons and partly for service. We occasionally sell most brands when there is a specific need and we also sell a few minor brands. If I was going to suggest adding a line to our mix it would be Hitachi and if they keep improving, LG. I have my reservations about the long term prospects for Mitsubishi, as they have been making some dumb moves lately, but the products continue to be a good choice. I rarely have to file warranty claims on them at all.

Thanks Leonard...good info. Any thoughts (firsthand or through the grapevine?) on Samsung, particularly the LED DLPs?

Randy

I am still skeptical of the LED sets. What I have seen of them I have not liked and suspect it is due to the narrow spectra of the LEDs. I have not had a chance to calibrate one and measure it with equipment, only visually.

In general, I like Samsung's DLP performance and some of their LCD sets. The have a great deal of adjustments avaiable that others do not and can be calibrated to look very good. They do seem to break more, however, and as a servicer, I really like them. :) As much as I like the product and some of the people who work for them in tech support and training, I would not recommend that we sell them. They obviously bought a large share of the DLP market early on with low priced product. There are pitfalls to building things cheap. We have seen this with the problems that they have had with the light tunnels and color wheels. Other servicers like them a lot for out of warranty work but I know several that have dropped them because of problems with warranty. I also know dealers that have stopped selling them. The only set that we sold, for a client that had to have that model, broke. That is just one set, but combined with my other knowledge I have to veto the SS.

One thing to consider with Samsung is they dispatch service as oppossed to customer dispatched.
With Mits, a customer can call up a tech and say 'hey, come out to my house tomorrow'.

With Samsung, you have to call Samsung 1st.

No, the line stayed the same 2 inches wide 3 inches up from the bottom. I had the service people out today after a look see and call to Mitz. he informed me it needed a new light engine. He said I would hear in about a week when they could change this out. I said I paid over $300 for a professional calibration now it would have to be done again, and he said, get this, "the light engines come already calibrated from the factory":confused:. I said yeah right, look this thing is 3 years old do they still repair them ( I have an extended warranty). He said sometimes they just replace with a new set. I'm hoping that may be the case a 1080P replacement would be nice.

I posted back in late August about the black bar running across the bottom of the screen. This took a while to be fixed. 3 week wait for new light engine from Mitz to arrive and then a wait to have service people come out and install. I was hoping for a new set replacement but Mitz would rather fork over an $1125 light engine instead. Well at least the warranty is still in place for awhile allowing time for it to go bad again under warranty;). Good news is the picture looks great! I am pleased for now.

I believe 5 cases of this have been confirmed in this forum to date, with the sets generally running about 3 yrs old. My TV had about 2000 hrs of use when the problem occurred.

Unfortunately, it's difficult to estimate a reliability rate when Mitsu likely sold tens of thousands of units & the only cases we can confirm are limited to those who post here. It's probable that the issue relates to a bad batch or lot of caps, so most TVs may be fine. I've read of people hitting 5000-6000 hrs of use, apparently with no issue.

I'm pleased to report that after installing the new capacitors my set fired up. Wahoo!

The swollen capacitor saga continues. I'm currently disassembling the electrical chassis on my 62525, and unfortunately, it appears the Formatter board (FMT) has 4 swollen caps (each are Jamicon 1000 uF 16V). They're not as badly swollen as the 2 power supply caps had been during my previous operation, but they are definitely degrading.

As I mentioned previously, my TV works, but I'm doing this cap check based on reports by our resident technician that swollen caps have been seen on multiple boards. I've also had the subjective sense that the picture quality of my TV is slowly degrading.

At first glance, the caps on the other boards (besides the FMT) appear OK -- in particular, the "famous 4" caps on the DM board appear normal. They are Jamicons (and have been known to cause problems on other Mitsu models), but I've only started using my HDMI interface recently, so perhaps they haven't seen as much load as would be the case with some TVs. In particular, since UMD_Terp's HDMI capability recently died, I'm curious as to whether his DM caps are degrading.

The FMT board contains a number of gate array type devices requiring a 3.3V supply. Its main functions appear to be preprocessing of the component signal, signal selection, image resolution scaling, D/A conversion for the VGA input, on-screen-display, and TMDS transmission (over the internal DVI cable). I wonder what impact an unfiltered AC supply would have on these functions -- in particular, might it be causing a gradual degradation effect to my image quality or is it more likely that it would have a step-function type impact where the TV (or some function therein) will stop working one day?

Photo #1: here's a side-view of the FMT board. Zoom in on the caps to see the bulging.

http://www.rememberthismomentphotography.com/FMT%20-%20side%20view.JPG

Photo #2: the middle card here is the DM card. 4 large caps reside in a cluster, the tops of 2 are observable in this pic. No swelling is evident.

http://www.rememberthismomentphotography.com/DM%20Caps.JPG

I'm pleased to report that after installing the new capacitors my set fired up. Wahoo!

I apologize for my negative post coming so shortly on the tail of your success story. Nice work & congrats on a newly operational TV!

It seems I am having the same problem. WD-52525 Purchased in Jan '04. Bulb lights for a few seconds then goes out Timer light on then Lamp Light error code is 34. So, I am going to take it apart and look at the Caps. Where are you guys ordering parts from? I would love to be able to get theses locally if possible (LA area). Thanks for all the great work thus far. Ill take some pictures as well.

I apologize for my negative post coming so shortly on the tail of your success story. Nice work & congrats on a newly operational TV!
No worries at all. In fact, while I had the set apart I noticed other swollen caps as well - though none as bad as the two that had clearly failed. I'm keeping my fingers crossed they last another few years.

EDIT: When I put everything back together I didn't pat attention to anything other than the fact the set turned on again. This morning I noticed the tell-tale dark spots across my screen and figured some of the dust I blew out of the set during the repair settled on the mirror. Took the screen off an found a bunch of dust bunnies on the mirror. What a PITA this set is to maintain!

It seems I am having the same problem. WD-52525 Purchased in Jan '04. Bulb lights for a few seconds then goes out Timer light on then Lamp Light error code is 34. So, I am going to take it apart and look at the Caps. Where are you guys ordering parts from? I would love to be able to get theses locally if possible (LA area). Thanks for all the great work thus far. Ill take some pictures as well.

Any electronics components store should carry the parts. Use google or superpages.com to identify a nearby store. Call ahead of time to ensure verify it's a consumer distributor & that they carry the part you need. Be sure the cap size is similar or else you may have difficulty getting the card cover back in place.

Another thing you might consider is getting caps wih longer leads so you can angle them [the caps] away from the radiator. This may reduce the chance that the new caps fail due to excessive heat exposure.

Any electronics components store should carry the parts. Use google or superpages.com to identify a nearby store. Call ahead of time to ensure verify it's a consumer distributor & that they carry the part you need. Be sure the cap size is similar or else you may have difficulty getting the card cover back in place.

Well after quite a bit of looking I couldn't find any of the High Temp Caps at any electronic store open on a Saturday at least. Where have you guys found things online? Any store you recommend? Thanks again for all the help. Hope I can order something and give it another shot next weekend.

--Greg

Wow! I just cleaned my mirrors and lens as mentioned here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=444566&page=141

THe difference is amazing! It looks better than I remember this tv looked when brand new!

Also, I used 91% isopropanol from Walmart to clean everything. It works better than windex or similar because it doesn't leave a film from the detergent in the cleaner.

Hope I don't have the cap problems you all are mentioning. I should still have another year left on my 5 year warranty, though.

s

THe difference is amazing! It looks better than I remember this tv looked when brand new!

Yeah, I think the dust really impairs the TV's ability to make dark blacks since the light will scatter off the dust on the mirror.

Well after quite a bit of looking I couldn't find any of the High Temp Caps at any electronic store open on a Saturday at least. Where have you guys found things online? Any store you recommend? Thanks again for all the help. Hope I can order something and give it another shot next weekend.
--Greg

I bought the following caps from mouser.com and they've worked great for a couple months now:

Part Number: 647-UHE1A332MHD
Voltage: 10V
Capacitance: 3300uF

I bought the following caps from mouser.com and they've worked great for a couple months now:

Part Number: 647-UHE1A332MHD
Voltage: 10V
Capacitance: 3300uF

Are those 85C?

Are those 85C?

The rated temp max is 105C.

TV REPAIR UPDATE: I completed my repair of the 4 swollen caps on my Format (FMT) board. I'm pleased to report that the picture quality appears to have been improved. My wife is a professional photographer & has an excellent eye for recognizing color imbalance. Here's one example of how we made our pre/post comparisons:

Previously, while watching a commercial for Mucinex that features bright green mucus creatures, the creatures appeared as a dull green. When she pumped up the green color to correct, then people's faces had a green tint. Now with the fix, that same commercial shows the proper "bright green" characters without requiring any adjustment of the green level.

Unfortunately, replacing the FMT caps is much more difficult than replacing the Power PCB caps. A couple notes of advice:

1. The FMT caps are 1000uF 16V. Don't replace them using larger caps (i.e., caps with a higher voltage max) because it will greatly increase the difficulty of reassembling the unit.

2. Take very careful notes of everything you disconnect. If possible, take pictures at each phase to aid with your reassembly process.

3. Be very careful when reconnecting the connectors. I bent a pin that I was fortunately able to correct. Never force anything.

So if you think your greens are "off" (and uncorrectable) you may have this problem. If you take a crack at it, good luck -- but I do think there is risk that you could mis-reassemble the chassis if you're not extremely careful.

I bought the following caps from mouser.com and they've worked great for a couple months now:

Part Number: 647-UHE1A332MHD
Voltage: 10V
Capacitance: 3300uF

Thanks Ill pick those up. I am also going to replace the 1000uF 16V as 2 showed signs of bulging on my set.

I actually replaced (with 85 C) them and have run into another problem. Now I am getting a 44 error after trying to start the TV. I checked voltages on the powersupply board and the 3.3V test never comes up. I know someone was looking at replacing a Voltage Regulator as well? Anyone else seen this? I was going to hold off buying the new 105 C caps till I figure out if I should get more at the same time.

I actually replaced (with 85 C) them and have run into another problem. Now I am getting a 44 error after trying to start the TV.

I think the 85C caps should be fine. As for the 44 error, the service manual indicates that's caused by a bad internal DVI cable connection. You might try unplugging and replugging both ends & ensuring they are tight.

I think the 85C caps should be fine. As for the 44 error, the service manual indicates that's caused by a bad internal DVI cable connection. You might try unplugging and replugging both ends & ensuring they are tight.

Yeah I tried that. I think it has to do with the 3.3V rail not powering up. I looked at the service manual and it does show the 3.3 going over to the Light Engine I think its the PA-J9 plug. I dont know the sequence of if/when that test point (3.3V) should power up. Could be a dead light engine as well maybe?

--Greg

Yeah I tried that. I think it has to do with the 3.3V rail not powering up. I looked at the service manual and it does show the 3.3 going over to the Light Engine I think its the PA-J9 plug. I dont know the sequence of if/when that test point (3.3V) should power up. Could be a dead light engine as well maybe?

--Greg

I believe all the test points were hot as soon as I turned the TV on (I confirmed the 12V, 3.3V, and 5V after replacing the caps). I think it's most likely a power supply board issue. Let me give it some thought... the wikipedia article on the "capacitor plague" mentions that voltage regulators often die along with the caps.

Thanks Ill pick those up. I am also going to replace the 1000uF 16V as 2 showed signs of bulging on my set.

I actually replaced (with 85 C) them and have run into another problem. Now I am getting a 44 error after trying to start the TV. I checked voltages on the powersupply board and the 3.3V test never comes up. I know someone was looking at replacing a Voltage Regulator as well? Anyone else seen this? I was going to hold off buying the new 105 C caps till I figure out if I should get more at the same time.

I would not use 85 degree rated caps. The originals are 105 degree and the problem likely has to do with them not actually living up to that rating as the chassis gets pretty warm in these sets even with the fan.

I would not use 85 degree rated caps. The originals are 105 degree and the problem likely has to do with them not actually living up to that rating as the chassis gets pretty warm in these sets even with the fan.

In principle, it's good to replicate what the manufacturer does. In practice, I don't think this is what's causing the problem here. SgtPepper should see 3.3V at TP3.3V when he hits the TV power button and initially, the caps would certainly be cool (and would take at least a few minutes to warm). The circuit designers usually derate their parts too, so the max allowable temp would likely be, say, 10-20% higher than the max expected temp.

Thanks Ill pick those up. I am also going to replace the 1000uF 16V as 2 showed signs of bulging on my set.

Hmm... the above might be why your 3.3V is failing. What are the reference ID's for these parts? (e.g., C9A51, etc).

For those of us whom had failed 3300 uF caps --our damage was limited to the caps themselves. However, yours is the first report I've seen of the Power Supply 1000 uF caps failing. So I would recommend looking at the voltage regs near the 1000 uF's if replacing the caps doesn't fix the problem.

Hmm... the above might be why your 3.3V is failing. What are the reference ID's for these parts? (e.g., C9A51, etc).

For those of us whom had failed 3300 uF caps --our damage was limited to the caps themselves. However, yours is the first report I've seen of the Power Supply 1000 uF caps failing. So I would recommend looking at the voltage regs near the 1000 uF's if replacing the caps doesn't fix the problem.

I did replace all 4 of the 1000 uF caps. I had to use the 85C ones for now. Have company comming over etc so the wife wanted a TV and thats all I could get for the weekend. But I figure the voltage regulator went out with the 2 caps. Unfortunately I forgot to look at which 2 were bulging before I replaced all 4. My thought now is that 2 were the 3.3V and 2 were on the 5V maybe? Ill have to check the voltages on that regulator near there as suggested. I am out of town for the work week and wont be back till Thursday night. I was hoping to order parts and maybe get them for the weekend but it may have to wait longer till I can test somemore. The caps I replaced are the 4 in the upper right corner near the coil on this pix. (I borrowed the link from another post I hope you dont mind!)

http://www.sarahclymer.com/tv005new.jpg

--Greg

If anyone knows which regulators it might be I dont mind ordering a few to see if I can get those and the caps by the weekend.

Thanks for everyones input.

The caps I replaced are the 4 in the upper right corner near the coil on this pix.

The following link provides higher resolution:

http://www.sarahclymer.com/tv025.jpg

It's tough to troubleshoot without schematics, but my first candidate would be the IC9A12 voltage regulator. This part is in the vicinity of the Q9A20 FET and IC9A21 PWM that produce the 3.3V rail from 12Vs (see attached figure). The IC9A12 has a generic P/N (part number) of BA00CC0WFP. Hopefully someone here on the forum can point you towards a distributer.

If your 5V and 10V test points check out OK, then it's unlikely to be the IC9A11 or IC9A12 voltage regs or even the IC9A20.

Thanks for the info. I will try and test things out and get back and see. I know the 5V test point was doing fine. Ill have to check the others and the pins on the IC9A12 and see what it shows. I think I am going to order the caps from Mouser and worry about the Voltage Regulator once I have an answer as a quick search didnt find anything in quantities under 2000 units..

--Greg

It's tough to troubleshoot without schematics, but my first candidate would be the IC9A12 voltage regulator. This part is in the vicinity of the Q9A20 FET and IC9A21 PWM that produce the 3.3V rail from 12Vs (see attached figure). The IC9A12 has a generic P/N (part number) of BA00CC0WFP. Hopefully someone here on the forum can point you towards a distributer.

IC9A12 can be bought from Mitsubishi for like $5 P/N: 271P081010

Does anyone know if schematics are available for the 62725?

I have a 62725 that will not power up. Power led comes on but nothing... Checking for error codes shows 12 which is no error found? The normal fan that always runs does not run when plugged in but there is a small test board that has a momentary switch that does spin the fan.

Anyone seen this before?

I downloaded the service manual one of you were kind enough to make available and can see that I have the 6vs, 12vs voltages along with the 30, 10 and +/- 15. No 3.3v and I think the 5v was missing as well. Are these only there after power on? I noticed pin 4 of connector K3 on the power board is labeled pon-2. Should this go high?

All caps in the supply look good as well as the fuses.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have a WD-62725 that I bought in May 2005.

Within the last couple months the unit started resetting itself.

Sometime I could watch for 7hrs before it would reset itself and some times it would be 1/2hr.

The TV had 1479 hours on it after 2 years of use it has been babied and only used for movies and football.

I had the chassis replaced but that did not fix the problem. The picture is amazing when it is working.

Everything works except it some times resets itself. I am not going to invest the time to fix as I bought a replacement.

I am looking to sell this TV AS-IS with a matching stand.

I am looking to get $500.00 for the whole thing, this is not an auction. I am sure the problem can be fixed but I am not TV smart.

This TV was $4500.00 and the stand was 450.00 when I bought them back in 2005.

If nothing else it has a new $1200.00 chassis in it.

If you are interested send me a PM.

Does anyone know if schematics are available for the 62725?

Mitsu hasn't released the schematics which naturally makes problems such as this very difficult to troubleshoot.

Beyond the tedious task of following the traces/jumpers back from the 3.3V or 5.0V test point and testing each component & solder joint -- I think your best bet it to try to obtain another Power PCB. I read on another site that they only cost about $100 new. You may be in luck though, looks like someone is selling one on ebay (google search for "930B921002").

I had the chassis replaced but that did not fix the problem.

It's gotta be the light engine or ballast card then -- not really anything else in there with respect to electronics. You can buy a light engine for <$300 (http://www.tvlampsforless.com/Mitsubishi_engine62_p/engine62.htm) and a ballast card < $80 (generically, it's a OSRAM PT-VIP 2AC/380). You could have a nicely functioning TV for $300 or $400 (maybe a little more if you account for shipping).

It may not be such a great deal for someone else to buy it though, adding in $500 for your sticker price. Till you factor in labor, some risk, a coming $250 bulb replacement, poor product line reliability, and the fact that TVs have gotten better & cheaper, I'd personally pass. We may have paid >$4000 for our sets, but you can buy a new Mitsu 1080p 65" for <$2200 now. You can even get a brand new 50" Samsung DLP for as little as $1080.

If nothing else it is definately worth it for parts.

Like I said it has a new chassis in it.

I just took the Diamond Shield off of my WD-52525 and the increase in contrast was absolutely staggering! Can't believe I waited this long to do it! I really didn't expect the picture to look this much better.

Oh, I took my replacement bulb out to look at it, and there is no haze over the lens like there was on my original bulb at this point in its life. The new bulb doesn't seem to need to be shaken to increase the brightness anymore, either.

If nothing else it is definately worth it for parts.

Like I said it has a new chassis in it.
I'll give you $75 for it. You pay shipping.

IC9A12 can be bought from Mitsubishi for like $5 P/N: 271P081010

...If you can find an authorized servicer who's kind enough to order one for you...

looks like it's an LDO

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=BA00CC0WFP-E2-ND

makes sense...

Mitsu hasn't released the schematics which naturally makes problems such as this very difficult to troubleshoot.

Beyond the tedious task of following the traces/jumpers back from the 3.3V or 5.0V test point and testing each component & solder joint -- I think your best bet it to try to obtain another Power PCB. I read on another site that they only cost about $100 new. You may be in luck though, looks like someone is selling one on ebay (google search for "930B921002").

Do you know if the 3.3 is a switched voltage or a standby? I used to do this work for a living 10 years ago. This chassis reminds me of the camcorders I used to work on.... only with larger boards!

...as a quick search didnt find anything in quantities under 2000 units..

If 2000 is too many, you might try:

http://www.partstore.com/Part/Pioneer+Electronics/Pioneer/BA00CC0WFP/New.aspx

Do you know if the 3.3 is a switched voltage or a standby? I used to do this work for a living 10 years ago. This chassis reminds me of the camcorders I used to work on.... only with larger boards!

Based on the pic that I attached earlier in post #4694, it appears the 3.3V derives from the standby transformer. To be a little more specific, it appears the 3.3V is pulled off the 12Vs with FET switching controlled by a PWM. There's probably also a voltage reg (not shown in the block diagram) that provides active stability. Since you said the 12Vs is OK, there's only a handful of parts between that point and the 3.3V test point. Hopefully you can isolate the problem. Keep us posted on what you find out.

Are these only there after power on? I noticed pin 4 of connector K3 on the power board is labeled pon-2. Should this go high?

PON-2 should definitely toggle at power-on.. not sure if it's active low or high. From the block diagram, it appears PON-2 triggers the turn-on of 12V, 10V, and 5V. And you should have +15V, -15V, 6VS, 30VS, and 3.3V as standbys (hot even when the TV is powered off).

[QUOTE=noplasma;11805468]Based on the pic that I attached earlier in post #4694, it appears the 3.3V derives from the standby transformer. \QUOTE]

I thought the same thing but wanted to be sure. Took a chance and broke out my old variarc and a 12V supply. Hooked the supply to the variarc to inject the 3.3V to see if I could get the set to power on. No luck, the supply can only put out 1 amp and the 3.3 line pulled it way down! Resistance on the line is the same as before so did not do damage. It's only around 1.8K and if I had done my math first then my one amp supply would not supply the almost 3 amps it would like. Seems like a lot to me if this just supplies control chips but.......... Will try to determine where the most load is coming from?

Perhaps your idea of picking up a pwr supply might be best?

It's only around 1.8K and if I had done my math first then my one amp supply would not supply the almost 3 amps it would like.

Your computer power supply should have plenty of power. How about running a wire from its 3.3V line to see if the TV will fire up?

Did you confirm if your power board's 5V is good?

[QUOTE=noplasma;11805468]Based on the pic that I attached earlier in post #4694, it appears the 3.3V derives from the standby transformer. \QUOTE]

I thought the same thing but wanted to be sure. Took a chance and broke out my old variarc and a 12V supply. Hooked the supply to the variarc to inject the 3.3V to see if I could get the set to power on. No luck, the supply can only put out 1 amp and the 3.3 line pulled it way down! Resistance on the line is the same as before so did not do damage. It's only around 1.8K and if I had done my math first then my one amp supply would not supply the almost 3 amps it would like. Seems like a lot to me if this just supplies control chips but.......... Will try to determine where the most load is coming from?

Perhaps your idea of picking up a pwr supply might be best?

It is very unlikely that a 3.3v line in these sets should ever draw an amp.

PON-2 should definitely toggle at power-on.. not sure if it's active low or high. From the block diagram, it appears PON-2 triggers the turn-on of 12V, 10V, and 5V. And you should have +15V, -15V, 6VS, 30VS, and 3.3V as standbys (hot even when the TV is powered off).

Well, I couldn't help myself and applied the 6VS to pon-2. My 3.3V, 12V, 5V and 340V supplies came up! Only did it breifly because not sure of the result of doing it with the rest of the set thinking it's off. But looks like the supply is OK and the problem is some where in the control circuitry.

I had just bought a Harmony 720 the night before and my wife is convinced it was caused by the new remote... I'm beginning to wonder if the crazy lady might not be so crazy?? Ahh..... I'm just wanting to find a reason for this....

The training manual showed the 3.3v line as part of the stby circuit, but in troubleshooting other sets I seem to recall that it is not active until the set powers up. There is often an enable pin on regulators for these types of circuits. IC9A21 and Q9A20 form the regulator for 3.3v which is supplied off of the 12 stby line. The 3.3v feeds the DMD.

The training manual showed the 3.3v line as part of the stby circuit, but in troubleshooting other sets I seem to recall that it is not active until the set powers up. There is often an enable pin on regulators for these types of circuits. IC9A21 and Q9A20 form the regulator for 3.3v which is supplied off of the 12 stby line. The 3.3v feeds the DMD.

I looked closer at the full bolck diagram and there are 3.3vs and a 5vs. These are not shown on the power board. Not sure where they are generated but I'm suspecting the signal board as a guess. I can now see that I am missing the 5vs on pin 2 of connector J2 on the signal board. The signal board looks like the worst one to get to in the assembly. Looks like I have to take the FMT and DM boards out to get to the signal board.

I am fairly certain that the TVMicro requires 3.3V to dispatch the PON command.
Not to mention the DM board should require 3.3V as well during boot up.

I cannot believe that this unit completed boot cycle without 3.3V.

You should disconnect the K3 connector and verify the voltage on the connector. If it is there then replace the DM.

I am fairly certain that the TVMicro requires 3.3V to dispatch the PON command.
Not to mention the DM board should require 3.3V as well during boot up.

I cannot believe that this unit completed boot cycle without 3.3V.

You should disconnect the K3 connector and verify the voltage on the connector. If it is there then replace the DM.

With K3 dissconnected the set just cycles the lamp light and timer light trying to boot. No volatage on pon-2. K3 connects to the signal board not DM.

I also found the the fan over the DM/Signal boards will run if I disconnect the thermal sensor from the fan control board. I had thought that this fan ran all the time but must be thermally controlled.

With K3 dissconnected the set just cycles the lamp light and timer light trying to boot. No volatage on pon-2. K3 connects to the signal board not DM.

I also found the the fan over the DM/Signal boards will run if I disconnect the thermal sensor from the fan control board. I had thought that this fan ran all the time but must be thermally controlled.

but did you get 3.3V after disconnecting it?

but did you get 3.3V after disconnecting it?

No 3.3

[QUOTE=noplasma;11805468]Based on the pic that I attached earlier in post #4694, it appears the 3.3V derives from the standby transformer. \QUOTE]

I thought the same thing but wanted to be sure. Took a chance and broke out my old variarc and a 12V supply. Hooked the supply to the variarc to inject the 3.3V to see if I could get the set to power on. No luck, the supply can only put out 1 amp and the 3.3 line pulled it way down! Resistance on the line is the same as before so did not do damage. It's only around 1.8K and if I had done my math first then my one amp supply would not supply the almost 3 amps it would like. Seems like a lot to me if this just supplies control chips but.......... Will try to determine where the most load is coming from?

Perhaps your idea of picking up a pwr supply might be best?

I don't know where the 3 amps came from.....

I=E/R so 3.3/1800 = <2ma

Of course that would be for pure resistive load. I'm sure the surge current would belargerbut nowhere near an amp.

[QUOTE=JoeC4745;11805647]

I don't know where the 3 amps came from.....

I=E/R so 3.3/1800 = <2ma

Of course that would be for pure resistive load. I'm sure the surge current would belargerbut nowhere near an amp.

You are correct! Don't know how I came out with that myself.

Thanks for the sanity check

Came home from work today and the TV greated me with a solid red light and a 34 error code. From what I just read over the last 50 or so posts, I might be another victim of faulty caps... or I hope it is something as simple as that.

[QUOTE=SK8_MD;11807569]

You are correct! Don't know how I came out with that myself.

Thanks for the sanity check

No problem.

Wish you luck in figuring out your power supply problem. It must be difficult without a schematic.

Are you sure you have checked the 3.3V is shorted to ground or not?

I'll give you $75 for it. You pay shipping.

No problem. And you can pay me $900 per day for storage as it sits in my basement.

Give me a break.

I find it very amusing how this thread has turned into an electronics troubleshooting forum!

I'm not complaining or anything. It is just interesting to see how it has changed over the last 3 years.

I am knocking on wood as I say "I am glad my TV hasn't had issues yet (and that there is another year left on my extended warranty - which is actually the reason that I didn't have issues yet!)..."

Are you sure you have checked the 3.3V is shorted to ground or not?


No it is not shorted. As I mentioned before when applying the 6VS to pon-2 at the powersupply my 3.3V, 12V, 5V and 340V supplies came up. I had a lot of clip and meter leads hanging and one may have given me the extra load that pulled down my injected voltage?

After the success of the pon-2 test, I suspect there is a problem on the signal board in the control circuit since it appears to have the sets microprocessor on it. IC7A00 is labeld TV uPC on the block diagram. Pg 52.

If you have any info on how it controls pon, pon-1 and pon-2 that would be great! I'm a little hesitant to go into that board without any info on how it should work and without some idea of the circuit.

For example: My power led lights when pressing power but that's all I get. No error codes.
What controls the led? pon?
What does pon-1 do?
Is pon-2 just for the power supply?
Do they all become active at once or is each actvated based on the result of some action of the previous one?

Thinking I may have to call a tech at this point?

I can now see that I am missing the 5vs on pin 2 of connector J2 on the signal board

That doesn't sound good. Maybe the signal board makes 3.3Vs & 5Vs from the 6Vs it receives?? If that step-down is broken, it would explain why the uProc can't issue control commands. Minimally, you should check the signal board for swollen caps. If 6Vs at connector KS pin 2 is good, I'd focus on the subsequent signal board circuitry.

Where is PON-1 located on the block diagram?

I find it very amusing how this thread has turned into an electronics troubleshooting forum!

I guess the first goal was to learn how to operate the TVs... now the goal is keeping them operating. Between the EEs, TV repair techs, & hobbyists who participate here, I'd say this is a pretty good source of info.

For example: My power led lights when pressing power but that's all I get. No error codes.
What controls the led? pon?
What does pon-1 do?
Is pon-2 just for the power supply?
Do they all become active at once or is each actvated based on the result of some action of the previous one?

Thinking I may have to call a tech at this point?
If you haven't damaged anything by putting 6V onto the PON2 line (2.5V normally), then I suggest you replace 934C121001 ASSY-PWB-E2P.
It can become corrupted and cause the exact symptom you describe.

If you haven't damaged anything by putting 6V onto the PON2 line (2.5V normally), then I suggest you replace 934C121001 ASSY-PWB-E2P.
It can become corrupted and cause the exact symptom you describe.


Do you know what this eprom contains? I'm wondering if it can just be cleared. (wishful thinking)

That sure seems to fit!
You know by the sounds of this now, I just may have to tell my wife she was right? She blamed the new Harmony 720. I had set it up to control my 62725, Sony DVD jukebox and receiver the night before. Tested it and everything was fine that night > went to bed. She got up in the morning and powered on the TV by the front panel then pressed the "watch TV" button on the harmony. (If I understand it, the 720 would send a discrete pwr-on?) She said she then heard sound and the set went off.

Could it be possible that a discrete power-on from the remote to the TV while it was coming up from a front panel pwoer-on have corrupted the eprom?

The set has the original firmware from manufacture of 7/05. I know I may be reaching here but it all kind of does fit?

If you haven't damaged anything by putting 6V onto the PON2 line (2.5V normally), then I suggest you replace 934C121001 ASSY-PWB-E2P.
It can become corrupted and cause the exact symptom you describe.

You might also try work through these troubleshooting steps. Appears Hipnotiq is pointing your towards #5 below... have you confirmed #3 and #4 do not apply?

1. Red status LED, self-diagnosis error 44, check for open F9A06 on the Power PCB part # 283P128050 on the Power PCB

2. Red lamp LED, self diagnosis error 34. Check for 5-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 1 and 2 on the Engine Driver PCB if missing replace the Power PCB part # 930B921002

3. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. This model is equipped with a keyboard lock feature, this can be mistaken as a no power condition. To unlock the keyboard press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds

4. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Check for 3.2 volts DC at connector LE pin 3 and 4 on the Control PCB, if low suspect problems with the switches/buttons on the Control PCB part # 935D776001

5. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Keyboard is not locked and key inputs at connector LE pin 3 and 4 check good. Suspect the E2P PCB part # 934C121001

6. LED does not stop blinking after 70 seconds of plug in. Disconnect the USB connector from the card reader to the front from the Chassis, if the unit will then boot up replace the Card Reader part # 299P271010.

7. LED does not stop blinking after 70 seconds of plug in. Disconnecting the USB connector from the Card Reader did not help. Suspect the DM PCB part # 934C116002.

Could it be possible that a discrete power-on from the remote to the TV while it was coming up from a front panel pwoer-on have corrupted the eprom? The set has the original firmware from manufacture of 7/05. I know I may be reaching here but it all kind of does fit?

The IR sensor has a narrowly defined set of commands that are triggerable by remote signal. Seems implausible that an unanticipated IR signal at an unanticipated moment could generate a EPROM write condition. There are plenty of ways for a EPROM to become corrupted including weak bit cells & upsets from atmospheric neutrons.

In the process of trying to order the eprom pwb now. Things should be OK at pins 3 and 4 since I can get the device and menu to flash the (no problem found) error code of 12.

I can't thank all you enough for your help with this. Will let you know when I find one. .

I actually replaced (with 85 C) them and have run into another problem. Now I am getting a 44 error after trying to start the TV. I checked voltages on the powersupply board and the 3.3V test never comes up.

The following Mitsu troubleshooting step may be relevant for your situation...

"Red status LED, self-diagnosis error 44, check for open F9A06 on the Power PCB part # 283P128050 on the Power PCB"

In the process of trying to order the eprom pwb now. Things should be OK at pins 3 and 4 since I can get the device and menu to flash the (no problem found) error code of 12.

I can't thank all you enough for your help with this. Will let you know when I find one. .
You may wanna try the software 1st (as it is free I think) since you said it wasnt updated.

You may wanna try the software 1st (as it is free I think) since you said it wasnt updated.

If it IS actually the E2P failure then the software doesnt format it. You have to either replace the board or else swap the ICs from a working board....

In the process of trying to order the eprom pwb now. Things should be OK at pins 3 and 4 since I can get the device and menu to flash the (no problem found) error code of 12.

I came across this manual -- sure wish I would've had this when I was fixing my FMT board...

V26 Chassis Replacement Manual
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=6MKC3A3V

And for anyone new, the same site has a couple other useful links...

TV Firmware (either 4.05 or 4.06, not sure):
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=DX8X5O0J
Note: I believe you need to use a 256 MB compact flash card for this work.

TV Service Manual (V26):
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=OMFZ8E7B

I came across this manual -- sure wish I would've had this when I was fixing my FMT board...

The replacement manual will sure come in handy when I get the new E2P board. Thanks!

I ordered it yesterday from a local service center. It's $55 with the dud plus shipping. I asked for overnight so with any luck I should have it by Monday?


I was going to try the firmware I had downloaded but don't have a CF 256MB and couldn't find one locally last night. They only had 512 and up.

noplasma any way we can get the info for free and with out signing up?

The following link provides higher resolution:

http://www.sarahclymer.com/tv025.jpg

It's tough to troubleshoot without schematics, but my first candidate would be the IC9A12 voltage regulator. This part is in the vicinity of the Q9A20 FET and IC9A21 PWM that produce the 3.3V rail from 12Vs (see attached figure). The IC9A12 has a generic P/N (part number) of BA00CC0WFP. Hopefully someone here on the forum can point you towards a distributer.

If your 5V and 10V test points check out OK, then it's unlikely to be the IC9A11 or IC9A12 voltage regs or even the IC9A20.

Ok so here are the results of what I am seeing.

F9A06 is good

TP3.3V Never shows voltage
TP5.0V Shows 5V at power on
TP10.0V Shows ~9.5 at power on

IC9A12 - This looks good according to the Switched Power supply Pg 46
Kinda strange the pin 5 but don't know if thats really used?
Pin 1 - 12V Power on
Pin 2 - 12V Power on
Pin 4 - 9V Power on
Pin 5 - ~1.9V Power on

IC9A11 - This looks good according to the Switched power supply Pg46
Pin 1 - 5V Power on
Pin 2 - 6V Always
Pin 4 - 5V Power on
Pin 5 - no voltage power on or idle

noplasma any way we can get the info for free and with out signing up?

yeah you just have to wait the 45 seconds for it to download. Its a bit hidden but at the top of the block (Right next to the giant MEGAUPLOAD and arrow) there is a CAPTCHA that you have to type in and click download then the timer will start. Catches me every time even when I have done it before.

Ok so here are the results of what I am seeing...

If your 10V is good, then the problem can't be IC9A12.

So we need to figure out why your 3.3V isn't coming on. From looking at the top half of p. 46, the "upstream" parts are Q9A20 and IC9A21. Prior to that is 12Vs. Have you confirmed your 12 Vs? If 12 Vs is OK, then it must either be a control logic issue or something with the intervening parts.

EDIT: Note that 12Vs is different from 12V. From looking at board photo, I'm not seeing a test point for 12Vs (don't use the 12V test point). Your best bet would be to check pin 6 of IC9A21 (which is the 12V Vc for the PWM, supplied by 12Vs).

Ok so here are the results of what I am seeing.

TP3.3V Never shows voltage

To start I would ohm out from pin 5 of Q9A20 to the 3.3V TP to see if its open. If it is the determine if it's F9A07 or related to the coils. Also ohm from pin 5 to ground. There's a zener diode off the 3.3V that might be used to protect the line from over voltage.

noplasma I found this
http://splodeman.com/V26_Part%2520Replacement_Instructions.pdf

To start I would ohm out from pin 5 of Q9A20 to the 3.3V TP to see if its open. If it is the determine if it's F9A07 or related to the coils. Also ohm from pin 5 to ground. There's a zener diode off the 3.3V that might be used to protect the line from over voltage.

pin 5 to the 3.3V TP is not open

Pin 5 to ground starts about .2 ohm and will climb the longer you hold it. I assume its charging a cap or something?

Thanks for all the help still trying.

--Greg

Note that 12Vs is different from 12V. From looking at board photo, I'm not seeing a test point for 12Vs (don't use the 12V test point). Your best bet would be to check pin 6 of IC9A21 (which is the 12V Vc for the PWM, supplied by 12Vs).

Ok this might be the "smoking gun" There is no voltage at pin 6 on IC9A21. So just have to see where that comes from.

--Greg

Thanks for all the ideas and help!!

The 3.3, 5, & 10v lines on the power supply are switched voltages that do not come on until the set powers on. They are NOT standby voltages.

Ok this might be the "smoking gun" There is no voltage at pin 6 on IC9A21. So just have to see where that comes from.

Thanks for all the ideas and help!!

Sounds you're getting somewhere now. Obviously the 3.3V can't come up if the 12Vs is down. Check F9A03 if you haven't already. 12Vs is simply a tap off the standby transformer... I wonder what's hanging this up? You might check the resistance between that pin 6 & ground (see if there's a short somewhere)...

Just want to thank all for the posts on the swollen capacitors. I replaced the 2-3300uf caps and a 1000uf cap which all had bulging tops and now my set is working again.
I guess I can put off the purchase of the replacement until the LED backlit LCDs come down in price.

Pin 5 to ground starts about .2 ohm and will climb the longer you hold it.


How High did you see it get? Mine would start to level around 1.8K.

There is a test point for the 12VS right in the center of the power board. It sounds like this should be OK since it feeds the 10V and 12V according to the block diagram pg. 46.

Did the caps you replaced leak electrolyte on the board? It can cause leakage between foil traces.