Sounds City in NJ is confirming Oct. 5th also on the 62725 but they are trying to get it sooner. Looks like they started on the West Coast with this one...

Time

Originally posted by time4akshun
Sounds City in NJ is confirming Oct. 5th also on the 62725 but they are trying to get it sooner. Looks like they started on the West Coast with this one...

Time
Does Sound City offer a 30 day return and were they willing to negotiate?

Hi folks,

Has anyone here been able to negotiate price with Tweeter on this unit? I won't break the rules by quoting discount prices. I just had the weird experience of Tweeter in Ct. where they basically seemed to refuse to negotiate on price. Not for the unit (the 62725), not for the service policy (5 years - no bulb coverage - $599) and not on an expensive Salamander stand I wanted. What gives- did I look like I just fell off the turnip wagon? (my father's expression). He was quoting me the standard BS line - well do you have a quote from another store we can verify? We've got price protection, yada yada. I refuse to pay bust out retail!

I was trying to give them my business after months of research and painful waiting.

I know the vast majority of you all get discounts, correct? So if you have, especially at Tweeter, can you chime in, and maybe I can use info to my advantage. Tweeter is the only place I can get the 30 day return, which is important to me. Don't mention prices on the thread please, if you have some good info specifically on price maybe I can get it via PM.

Thanks for all the help of my AVS friends.

Since you're in CT, why not try Bernie's? They are 5 large below Tweeters normal price on the 52525. They also offer a 4 or 5 year warranty with bulb coverage. I would expect that if you go in there and want to buy the bigger one, they'd work out a reasonable deal. They're the only ones I've come across that seem to be willing to deal on Mits.

Mike

Thanks, but believe it or not, I'm on Long Island, but Tweeter said they would deliver to LI. I could always jump on the Bridgeport Ferry and pick it up myself, but they would have to use a national service org. so I could get service in my area. PC Richards (don't get me started) refuse to negotiate a return policy and the sales guy was actually a nasty @!#!#@ to boot.

Why is it that people want everything for free. Tweeter is a great company with great service policies that you dont get at 2nd rate stores and online but everyone wants all those services at the price of online dealers that offer Zero service, Horrible return and re stocking policies and generally bad everything.
Ive bought tons form them and paid for thier services that i have used from time to time. Show me another company that allowed me to upgrade my ELITE tv to a Mits Diamond after a year of ownership and not being happy. Yeah they sell for the listed price but when you need them later they are there 100%.

30 day refund...why are you trying to get a deal on a TV you say is the right one for you after much research but you need a 30 day return policy?

1. Who said that I want something for free? If I read most people right on this site, it is reasonable to expect a discount off of list price, when you are buying $6000 worth of equipment and service policy.
2. Regarding the return policy - again, most people feel it's essential for a DLP set. I did not sit in the store and watch it for 20 hours to make sure I did not (or my family did not) get headaches, etc. Also, I am all for buying into new technology but not if I get a lemon and all the retailer wants to do is try to fix it. The 30 day policy is an important factor, and lots of stores realize it as well.
3. There are plenty of retailers that give great service and give discounts, especially when there is competition.
4. I have not investigated Internet retailers. Just reputable, B&Ms.

I have tracked these forums for 5-6 months and I believe that I have reasonable expectations in these areas.

Originally posted by cjut01
1. Who said that I want something for free? If I read most people right on this site, it is reasonable to expect a discount off of list price, when you are buying $6000 worth of equipment and service policy.


The best Mitsubishi dealers in our area all negociate the prices for Mits sets. They also all post the same MSRP which in the case of the 525 and 725 seem to be falling.

OK, lets try to get back on topic.

I got the new HDMI cable today (number 3) and it does fit better and I think that since this was the only problem so far, I have decided not to have the set replaced. I still think this picture rivals plasma and without the burn in issue. I don't have the tilt problem and the picture geometry is pretty straight.

I think I posted my last video settings, and like Rick (biggersbetter) am considering having it calibrated. But I have to wonder just how much better the picture quality would be after a calibration, is it really worth the $500?

Plus, other than picture geometry or grayscale adjustments, I think with all the perfect color settings you can get real close without spending the money.

So I am thinking, at least for now, of waiting a while before I spend the money.

I saw the Mits 52525 & 62525 at BB over the weekend. They were crammed into a corner where you couldn't easily look at it straight on. All you could see was the glare, and I didn't feel like the TVs were able to put their best foot forward vs. the Samsung (till then, my favorite) and Toshiba (visible pixel structure to me) DLPs. Today I went into hhgregg looking for the new Panasonic DLP. They didn't have it but they did have the Mits 52525 & 62525 running. They were near a JVC D-ILA and a Toshiba DLP. The Mits DLPs suffered in the showroom environment regarding exaggerated brightness and punchiness of the colors of the competition, however as I stood there I became transfixed by the smoothness and subtlety of the images on the Mitsubishi DLPs. Also, the TVs were in a aisleway such that the maximum distance you could stand from them was 5 feet. I was amazed that at that distance, the 52525 did not show visible pixel structure, whereas the JVC D-ILA looks pixelated and unconverged, and the Toshiba looks blocky and 2-dimensional. My basement theater room at home is completely light-tight so I am not very concerned about the glare screen or really even maximum light output.

I asked the salesman about the Panasonic DLP. Like CC, he had never heard of it. I also asked about the xx725 series availability. Had also never head of them. He said they had only just gotten the xx525s in house for three weeks. Then he went to check the sale price of the 52525 for me and came back, rather shocked, to report that "The 52525 is discontinued! We're getting the 52725 model you mentioned in about three weeks. We don't even have any inventory of the xx525s - just these two floor models."

Was the salesman correct in reporting the xx525 series discontinued, or do you think he meant it is only discontinued at hhgregg?

Do you mean BB or hhgregg. Someone has speculated that the 525s will be discontinued because they are so similar to the 725s. This would mean that BB would carry.

I take the hhgregg salesman's comment to mean that the 525s will no longer be carried by hhgregg, but I am left wondering if the 525s will still be made by Mitsubishi at all. If yes, then BB might stay with the 525s, otherwise of course they will upgrade to the 725s if the 525s are no longer available. However at the BB in northern KY, they have not heard of the 725 series.

Originally posted by scpanel
I think I posted my last video settings, and like Rick (biggersbetter) am considering having it calibrated. But I have to wonder just how much better the picture quality would be after a calibration, is it really worth the $500?

Plus, other than picture geometry or grayscale adjustments, I think with all the perfect color settings you can get real close without spending the money.

So I am thinking, at least for now, of waiting a while before I spend the money.

Steve,

I couldn't agree more.

The main purpose of calibration is to get the picture as true to the actual source material as possible. This way, the aggregate of viewers are the "most satisified" (assuming the source material is pleasing).

Professional theaters must do this since they market to many viewers.

But, in your home, only YOU (oh, and perhaps a few others), really matter. So, if you can tweak it so it turns your crank(s), you're done and you can put the $ somewhere else.

So, this may be a little OT but can anyone out there whose had an ISF calibration (preferrably on DLP gear) comment on their satisfaction level?

Gotta get this HT monkey off my back....

At my store, my buyer has deceided to not carry the 525 anymore either. From what he said, the 525 will not be discontinued. I think it is a store to store decision.

Thanks Kevin Barduca (A-1)

Originally posted by biggersbetter
Steve,

I couldn't agree more.

The main purpose of calibration is to get the picture as true to the actual source material as possible. This way, the aggregate of viewers are the "most satisified" (assuming the source material is pleasing).

Professional theaters must do this since they market to many viewers.

But, in your home, only YOU (oh, and perhaps a few others), really matter. So, if you can tweak it so it turns your crank(s), you're done and you can put the $ somewhere else.

So, this may be a little OT but can anyone out there whose had an ISF calibration (preferrably on DLP gear) comment on their satisfaction level?

Gotta get this HT monkey off my back....

My Mitsu service guy, who has been working on Mitsu for 25 years, said that the calibration on the DLP is a waste of money. He said it works better a CRT bassed unit because of the convergence and there is not much you can do with a DLP (not $500 worth)

Thanks Kevin Barduca (A-1)

I really liked the PQ of xx725 but I need to use this TV as a computer monitor.

Does anyone tried and got 1:1 pixel mapping?
If 1:1 is possible, does this unit have overscan?

With Samsung DLP(HD2) units, if you feed 1248 x 702(a little bit less than 1280 x 720), the TV will display 1:1 image without any overscan.
Is this possible with xx725?

Thanks.

Originally posted by jessie d
Why is it that people want everything for free. Tweeter is a great company with great service policies that you dont get at 2nd rate stores and online but everyone wants all those services at the price of online dealers that offer Zero service, Horrible return and re stocking policies and generally bad everything.
Ive bought tons form them and paid for thier services that i have used from time to time. Show me another company that allowed me to upgrade my ELITE tv to a Mits Diamond after a year of ownership and not being happy. Yeah they sell for the listed price but when you need them later they are there 100%.

30 day refund...why are you trying to get a deal on a TV you say is the right one for you after much research but you need a 30 day return policy?

This is 100% true.

But, You can use a price match to your advantage and average the factor of price and service.

Most dealers might not be able to match every online price, but they might get you a little closer to the point the deal makes more sense and it's worth the extra cost for the services and customer equities.



Originally posted by IronHorse
Since you're in CT, why not try Bernie's? They are 5 large below Tweeters normal price on the 52525. They also offer a 4 or 5 year warranty with bulb coverage. I would expect that if you go in there and want to buy the bigger one, they'd work out a reasonable deal. They're the only ones I've come across that seem to be willing to deal on Mits.

Mike


Consider that Bernies has no return policy on delivered tv's. The will only exchange if proven non-repairable. They will also fight you on returns... it's definitely not "no questions asked" like some other dealers.

And, if you pick up yourself and try to return you get hit with a nasty restocking fee.

They also sell outside extended warranties. Warranty company. If you buy that DLP from Bernies and it blows up in a few months and call them they tell you to call the warranty company. They do not service what they sell. They will not offer and exchange for convenience. You might wait many weeks before a service call.

I work for a retailer (not tweeter- A competitor) and we do not carry Mits. But I can tell you that five years doing this and I know that Tweeter has better service and support before and after the sale than Bernies.

Who and where you buy is as important as what you buy in my opinion

The best buy here has not heard of the 725 series, either. A local TV store has the 725 on their stock list, though, but thye said it probably won't be on the showroom floor. He is trying ot sell me on the JVC DILA....

Sound City in NJ WILL negotiate and match prices. Also, 16 months Interst free financing, and free delivery if you ask for it...

Time

There is a Mits zero financing coming from Sept 15 to Nov 1. They were just putting up the signs at Tweeter and GG yesterday.

Originally posted by pjr
There is a Mits zero financing coming from Sept 15 to Nov 1. They were just putting up the signs at Tweeter and GG yesterday.

That's good to know....with rumors that the MSRPs of these sets are dropping and the fact that mine has not yet been delivered (we're two weeks past the original estimate), I'm thinking that a little renegotiation might be in order. I was worried that the financing deal might be a stumbling block, but maybe not so much now...thanks!

Randy

My "ultimate WAF setup"

The furniture is all Pottery Barn stuff. The Denon 3805 is getting a little hot in the cabinet, so I'm going to install a fan (does anybody know where I can find a small, quiet fan that runs of 110 AC?). I'm using the Mits speakers for the center channel and so far, it sounds great with the rest of my speakers (a mixture of Definitive products). The Mits has a "Mono" setting for the speaker, so they must have known people would be using it in this manner.

The pic is showing analog cable (Cablecard gets installed on Friday), and I'm really pleased with the PQ with this SD content. The entire right-side of the room is floor-to-ceiling windows, and there is no problem with glare.

I'm looking forward to getting NetCommand all setup - those IR blasters that Mits included is a real plus.

How do you get the Mits to use its internal speakers as a center channel? I have been looking through the manual, but haven't found anything on this yet. Maybe I just missed it.

Originally posted by kbarduca
My Mitsu service guy, who has been working on Mitsu for 25 years, said that the calibration on the DLP is a waste of money. He said it works better a CRT based unit because of the convergence and there is not much you can do with a DLP (not $500 worth)(A-1)

Calibration has always been a debate with every display technology, even CRT's. I have never heard anyone say they regret having their set calibrated (unless they had an unqualified calibrator).


All broadcast material is sent out assuming it will be displayed on a CRT. So in order for technologies like DLP, LCD, and Plasma to have a decent picture they have to behave like a CRT (in some aspects). Many of them do not. Sure they don't have convergence, but every other aspect has to calibrated just like a CRT would. They need be properly set up for optimum white and black levels just like a CRT. Trying to get any of these new technologies to create the accurate colors similar to a CRT is a real task that can never be done by eye. Accurate greyscale is a very important factor for color accuracy and shadow detail. Isn't shadow detail on these things a weak point already?

Just because a TV can't be converged doesn't mean it won't benefit from calibration. Is it going to be worth it to everyone? No. My mother could care less about the quality of picture she is watching. But I think most of us on this forum are interested in optimum picture quality, and that simply can't be done without proper tools and training. Some calibrators won't make you pay if your not satisfied with the picture(they just may reset the TV back the way you had it.)

Every cost for home theater has to be justified in our minds, eyes, or ears. Some people use the cables that come with the DVD player and some spend hundreds of dollars on quality cables. To each his own.

Originally posted by htwaits
The best Mitsubishi dealers in our area all negociate the prices for Mits sets. They also all post the same MSRP which in the case of the 525 and 725 seem to be falling.


Hi htwaits...
Have you seen any lower MSRPs posted yet? I'll (hopefully) soon be getting my 62725, and would be interested to know if they have actually lowered prices so I can effectively discuss this with my sales guy....

Thanks! (and welcome to the Mits area, if you end up going this direction and hanging around)

Randy

Originally posted by IFLYSWA
Hi htwaits...
Have you seen any lower MSRPs posted yet?
Send me a PM.

Originally posted by strummer2k
How do you get the Mits to use its internal speakers as a center channel? I have been looking through the manual, but haven't found anything on this yet. Maybe I just missed it.

For TV I'm not doing anything special, just leaving the speaker On and setting it to Mono (which boosts the dialog and cuts down the background). For DVD I'm going to use the center channel pre-out on the Denon and Y it into the audio for Component 1 (still need to pickup a Y cable).

Originally posted by one504
My "ultimate WAF setup"

The furniture is all Pottery Barn stuff. The Denon 3805 is getting a little hot in the cabinet, so I'm going to install a fan (does anybody know where I can find a small, quiet fan that runs of 110 AC?). I'm using the Mits speakers for the center channel and so far, it sounds great with the rest of my speakers (a mixture of Definitive products). The Mits has a "Mono" setting for the speaker, so they must have known people would be using it in this manner.

The pic is showing analog cable (Cablecard gets installed on Friday), and I'm really pleased with the PQ with this SD content. The entire right-side of the room is floor-to-ceiling windows, and there is no problem with glare.

I'm looking forward to getting NetCommand all setup - those IR blasters that Mits included is a real plus.

I.........am..........in...........love!!! That is an amazing tv and a great setup with beautiful furniture.

One question: The seat on the right, since that person if very close to the tv, what kind of picture do they get sitting there and how far away is that?

uh, looks pretty normal to me subwoofer. dang youre kinda crazy, doyou live in a trashcan or something subwoofer!??! lol.

I WISH!!! Just kidding malloc,

Actually if I were to get a DLP tv, my tv room would look similar to One504s.

Originally posted by PJR:
There is a Mits zero financing coming from Sept 15 to Nov 1. They were just putting up the signs at Tweeter and GG yesterday.

Thanks for that great bit of information.

BTW, you do mean October 15th, not Sep. 15, right?

One other thing, where can I find out about the color wheel? Segments, etc.?

BTW, I do see that the promotion is from September 16 to Nov. 1. Great!!!!

7 seg wheel...

Yes, it must be October 15 since they were just putting it out. Just alittle confused in my old age. I also have not heard anything about the green halos in a while. Does the 725s not have it or have people figured out a fix?

I'll just post this as my observations since I haven't talked to Mits CR or my local dealer's service dept.

Received my 62725 on Sunday 5pm

Today (Wed) 5pm when I turned it on:

Green light went out after a few seconds, no light on the screen.
A few seconds later, the lamp indicator went solid red.

Did a hard reset 2 times, same results.

On the 3rd reset, proper operation restored.

Additionally, if I load a CF card up with jpg's, sometimes it only sees some of them or none. No apparent pattern to it. Just tried mp3's, and they seem OK so far.

Rick

Rick, That is the first I have heard of that, I have not had any issues with my 52725 other than the HDMI problem I solved. I even tried an SD memory card and it worked perfectly. I don't have a CF to try otherwise I would.

I forgot to mention that I have had a few power drops where my backup UPS has kicked in for a second or two and has worked perfectly. I wouldn't be without one with a DLP or LCD TV.

Have you had any power related issues by chance?

Originally posted by scpanel
I forgot to mention that I have had a few power drops where my backup UPS has kicked in for a second or two and has worked perfectly. I wouldn't be without one with a DLP or LCD TV.

Have you had any power related issues by chance?

The power in my neighborhood is very stable, but since I still work for a living :-( I wasn't around today.

Don't have a UPS on the TV, just a Panamax DBS+5. I probably should throw one on there, what's the best ?

hi....long time reader of both this and the other forum (525). haven't said much yet, but tomorrow i take delivery of my 52725, so i went this morning to charter cable and picked up my cable box for now (i might switch to the cc, but will miss the TV Guide and Video on Demand).

i got a Motorola 6200 STB and noticed that it has IEEE in the back. i started wondering if i could use that as an output for hi-def and for std def.

does anyone have any experience with the firewire yet, using with a STB?

hell i don't even know if the moto6200 will output from it. if it doesn't i'm going to use the DVI (bought the converter to HDMI). that will play standard Def through there also correct?

and last, but not least, its got an optical out, i'm wondering it will output all the audio through it.

thanks guys...tons o' questions....sooooo excited for tomorrow, hell i can even watch the debates in hi-def!

nick

Hey guys and gals, I'm still here thinking about which DLP I wanna get. I think the first question people should ask themselves is which tv looks the best. Out of the DLP brands: Panny, Sammy, Mits, Tosh, .... I would have to say that Mits and Sammy have the best style. I really don't care for the speakers on the side of the tv.

Next step is to pick out best picture and color.

if your looking at the back of the 52725 what side are the inputs on?

Originally posted by maggiore19
i got a Motorola 6200 STB and noticed that it has IEEE in the back. i started wondering if i could use that as an output for hi-def and for std def.

Check here.

Official AVS Comcast / Cableco Moto 5100 / 6200 Topic! (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&postid=4428966#post4428966)

I just got my replacement HD Tivo unit today and discovered something about the XX525 (and I'm sure the XX725 as well) that this display will output both 720p and 1080i. Maybe I'm the only one who didn't know this but this opens up the best of both worlds...NFL Football on CBS in native 1080i, and on ABC, ESPN and Fox in native 720p. Doesn't get much better than this.

One other thing, when I turned on my TV this morning, I discovered a possible problem with the HDMI connection I am using with the Tivo...nothing! I finally unplugged and re-plugged the HDMI cable and everything was OK. I've heard about possible connectivity problems with this input. I'll have to watch this closely.

oh heck yeah love 1080i and 720p support.

Originally posted by elmalloc
oh heck yeah love 1080i and 720p support. I really wanted the 720p format but thought I'd have to give up the brilliant 1080i from CBS, HDNet, DiscHD, etc. The CBS game this weekend using the integrated tuner still looked pretty good even downconverted to 720p, but can't wait to see it this Sunday, back in blazing 1080i.

so when you talk about 1080i and 720p support, you were afraid that it wouldn't down/side convert the 1080 to 720 for display on the tv, or were you referring to outputting that via firewire to the hdtivo or what?

I have a 725. I have been noticing pixilation, static or something even on HD channel. It seems to happen more (or be noticeable) on edges and when there is lot of a single color.

Currently have OTA via coax cable hooked to non-HD TIVO and then when in HD I have the TIVO in Standby (basically bypass). The TIVO is connected to the TV via coax. I will soon have HD-TIVO and HDMI cable.

These same effects are appearing on non-HD channels also. Any thoughts on how to adjust what it might be? Does anyone else have this?

Not a major issue but would like to resolve if I could.

Whats OTA mean?

Off The Air...

Coax? That is the worst connection you can use to ANY TV. That explains your image issues. S-video is the least quality cable I would ever use. Huge difference between the two.

Never use coax for any connection to any TV!!!

Time

:confused: if you are using the internal ATSC or QAM tuner in the TV, then coax is the only way to go...

Coax is pretty damn good for OTA. DIGITAL SON!

I think the intent of saying that coax is a poor connection was that if you use the tuner from another device and then use its coax RF modulated output, that is not the best... at least that is what makes sense :)

I agree with Terp. If you have a cable box, then there are better ways to connect it to the TV than the coax. However if you do not use a box and connect directly to the tv then coax is the only mehtod. Remember everything starts out on the coax to begin with.

Originally posted by hedges1
My connections are right. I'm doing what you're doing, using the remote to change it. It's just frustrating, as it requires multiple remotes in my lap almost at all times.

How did you find out this information. I purchased a 62525 a couple of weeks ago in hopes that BB would carry the 62575 series soon. I have gone into BB a few times since and asked about whether they are going to carry the xx75 units. All they tell me is that they can not find it in their inventory system. Am I asking the wrong question? Is there another place I can ask them to check.

Originally posted by Snowbum
How did you find out this information. I purchased a 62525 a couple of weeks ago in hopes that BB would carry the 62575 series soon. I have gone into BB a few times since and asked about whether they are going to carry the xx75 units. All they tell me is that they can not find it in their inventory system. Am I asking the wrong question? Is there another place I can ask them to check.

The correct model number is WD-62725, not 62575 as you've written above. This could be the source of confusion when they check at the store.

I've been trying to hook up my 52725 to my A/V receiver. I'm about one audio input short. I'm curious where the Mits audio output gets its input. In other words, I was hoping (probably incorrectly) that I could input my VCR into the Mits and then use the TV audio output to drive the A/V receiver.

I have a combined DVD / AV receiver, so of the remaining two AV inputs, I have the TV out (both analog and digital coax) into AV1, and the XBOX (both analog and digital optical) into AV2. Lacking a third input, I tried inputting my VCR into the Input 1 and the audio's not working. It works like a champ if I input my VCR into ANT2, but NetCommand won't accept that as a possible option.

My choices are to drop NetCommand for the VCR (but then the wife will freak out because she has to use two remotes) or to figure out some other way to jury-rig the inputs.

Any audio experts out there to help?

BB and Sears will only carry the xx525 series.
For the xx725 and xx825 series, look to specialty retailers (regional chains like GG, Ultimate, Tweeter, Magnolia etc.) and small independent retailers in your neighborhood.

Just talked to Mits CR Dept.

They are overnighting the firmware flash to me. BTW, I didn't have to FAX a EULA or anything like that.

Apparently the 725's don't have the latest fix in them. They didn't even need to know the serial #.

Hopefully, that will do it.

This AM, when I turned the system on, video came on but was "scrambled" (HD Tivo source). I had to roll the resolution on the Tivo to restore sync. Hmmm....

biggersbetter or anyone,

Anyone know how the firmware is updated? Is it something that can be downloaded, put on a CF, and then read by the TV?

What kind of prices are people seeing for the 62725? The best I've gotten is ~12% off MSRP (4699). Anyone seen better?

Originally posted by neoikon
biggersbetter or anyone,

Anyone know how the firmware is updated? Is it something that can be downloaded, put on a CF, and then read by the TV?

What kind of prices are people seeing for the 62725? The best I've gotten is ~12% off MSRP (4699). Anyone seen better?

Firmware is flashed via the memory card slot in the front of the set.
Very easy/quick, user installable. You have to get the card from Mits, no download available at this point.

Please PM people for pricing info, as it's against forum regs :-)

The power in my neighborhood is very stable, but since I still work for a living :-( I wasn't around today.

Rick,

I picked up a UPC 1500va, (865 watts) and have the TV, DVD. DISH 921 and my Krell HTS 7.1 all plugged into it and it has saved me twice already this week!

Originally posted by biggersbetter
Just talked to Mits CR Dept.

They are overnighting the firmware flash to me. BTW, I didn't have to FAX a EULA or anything like that.

Apparently the 725's don't have the latest fix in them. They didn't even need to know the serial #.


I just spoke to them also and they indicated that the 62725s already have the lastest software. Interesting...

Originally posted by biggersbetter
Please PM people for pricing info, as it's against forum regs :-) [/B]

Sorry about that :)
Can someone PM me on what kind of deals they've found on the 62725?

Also, what is the latest firmware out there on the xx725?

Originally posted by Iwii
I just spoke to them also and they indicated that the 62725s already have the lastest software. Interesting...

It sure is.

Why did you call Mits, do you have a reset-like issue or something else?

Originally posted by biggersbetter
It sure is.

Why did you call Mits, do you have a reset-like issue or something else?

I am picking up my 62725 tonight. I wanted to make sure I had the "latest and greatest" - just being a little proactive I guess. I will let you know if I have any issues with the new set.

Any Mits owners here have any issues with the PQ. In particular, I have noticed 2 things in the stores:

1) Alot of small moving noise artifacts in the picture. For example, if you look at the sky in the background...or on a persons face...even from a distance, there is all this noise jittering around
2) More pixelation than normal on fast moving scenes...even something as simple as the camera panning to a close up of a person from a wide angle view at a moderate speed....the person gets pixelated until the camera stops moving

Ordinarily, I would attribute this to a bad signal. But EVERY time I have seen this TV in EVERY story, I've seen it. And, in contrast, the Samsung 85 Pedestal TV did not seem to exhibit these symptoms...even when right next to the TV using the same feed.

Any thoughts?

I just noticed last night that if I moved my eyes across the screen to talk to someone on the side, I saw these RED/GrEEN horizontal blocks for just a split second.

Are these the so called RAINBOWS people talk about ??

Its no big deal because I don't see it except at that very instant !!

dre

Originally posted by subwoofer
Whats OTA mean?

"Over The Air"

Originally posted by Benji
I just got my replacement HD Tivo unit today and discovered something about the XX525 (and I'm sure the XX725 as well) that this display will output both 720p and 1080i. Maybe I'm the only one who didn't know this but this opens up the best of both worlds...NFL Football on CBS in native 1080i, and on ABC, ESPN and Fox in native 720p. Doesn't get much better than this.

Benji,

Yes it is a good thing, it is also common with most 720p TV's (your TV has a native resolution of 720p.) 720p is more difficult to display (there is more data to process in a given period of time) than 1080i. So there is no significant technical reason a 720p TV could not up convert a 1080i signal and display it.
The same is not true for the reverse, many (especially older) 1080i TV's are not capable of displaying 720p.
Then of course there are the anomalies of the world, like the RCA DLP's that have a native resolution of 720p, but for some reason (probably to save $0.25) they do not accept 720p as an input, but instead require a 1080i (that is then converted to 720p to be displayed.)

In any case, congratulations and enjoy.

I'm very concerned about Mattymorning's question above. Does the super-sharp PQ that everyone likes so much about the Mits dlp come with the downside of a noisy or less stable picture? I would really like to know what you Mits owners have experienced, since I'm still trying to make up my mind between it and a Samsunt hlp.

Actually after re-reading the owner's manual, I discovered I was in error, per one of the above posts. Apparently the resolution format indicated on the screen is not necessarily the resolution you are viewing, but the resolution being inputted to the TV. The screen resolution is still 720p no matter what the input is. The TV is either upconverting or down-converting until you get the final product. But it's still an excellent picture (minus the glare).

Originally posted by millerwill
I'm very concerned about Mattymorning's question above. Does the super-sharp PQ that everyone likes so much about the Mits dlp come with the downside of a noisy or less stable picture? I would really like to know what you Mits owners have experienced, since I'm still trying to make up my mind between it and a Samsunt hlp. All I can tell you is I had a Mits 65807 (RPTV-CRT) for 5 years, and the quality of SD programming on that set was slightly better than the DLP. But the HD on this set blows away anything I have seen with the possible exception of my RCA F38310 which is a 38" direct view. Football on ABC, ESPN and FOX in 720p is awesome and very close to rivaling HDNet for PQ.

Almost walked away with the 52725 last night, but going to wait until mid-December to save up money. I think after all the research and Sammy juggling, that this is the set for me. I loved the PQ at the GG last night, and I love that there are no side speakers. The stand is HORRIBLE - useless for anyone with more than 2 total components. A few questions:

1. What are the differences between the 725 series and the 825 series? When is the 825 expected to come out?

2. I am a little slow on PiP options, but this is a major selling point for the wife. Is there an "easy" way to have PiP on this TV? I will have a Comcast HD box as input . . . is there any way to watch two "cable" channels without going through tons of hoops?

3. Am I correct - this TV has only 1 digital input (HDMI)?? It doesn't have a DVI as well? I plan on connecting a new DVD player with digital out to my TV and plan to connect a Comcast HD box . . . do I need to buy a switcher or will one of these connected with component still give me optimal performance?

Thank you much!

(1) the 825 will have a built-in hardrive that I believe can record 20 hours of HD.
(2) PIP works with built-in tuner and I believe an analog source for the 2nd tuner.
(3)1 HDMI and 3 component inputs that accept all resolutions including 1080i and 720p.

Originally posted by Benji
(1) the 825 will have a built-in hardrive that I believe can record 20 hours of HD.
(2) PIP works with built-in tuner and I believe an analog source for the 2nd tuner.
(3)1 HDMI and 3 component inputs that accept all resolutions including 1080i and 720p.

Benji,

(1) 120 Gigs => about 12 hrs HD. It also will digitize and record analog signals, it will (of course) record SD and HD signals, it will record from S-video or , it will digitally record from firewire (!), and it will playback to firewire. It also will schedule recordings from TV Guide On Screen.

(2) The set has both an analog and digital OTA tuner and also a second analog tuner associated with the PIP.

(3) One HDMI, two component 480i/480p/720p/1080i and a couple of computer type inputs. Also THREE firewire inputs and an RS-232C input.

This per the July (I believe) Spec Sheet.

and when are the x85s coming out? any ideas?

I bet they will go for about $5000, right?

Has anybody yet actually received a 62725?

Originally posted by millerwill
Has anybody yet actually received a 62725?

welcome millerwill,

you might want to actually read thru the thread before posting :-)

Originally posted by Snowbum
How did you find out this information. I purchased a 62525 a couple of weeks ago in hopes that BB would carry the 62575 series soon. I have gone into BB a few times since and asked about whether they are going to carry the xx75 units. All they tell me is that they can not find it in their inventory system. Am I asking the wrong question? Is there another place I can ask them to check.

Snowbum: I just returned my 52525 to BB due to reset and tilt issues and they will not be getting the 725 series. BB has their Magnolia stores in California and other western states which may carry the 725 but BB will not.

Earlier, I posted a question about the PQ, noise, pixelation etc in large same color areas.

Well tonight I was at Ultimate Electronics where I bought my 52725. I looked at all the DLPs (Mits, Sammy, Phillips) and they all had that same pixelation in the same spots. I went over to a plasma and even saw a little of it in the plasma.

So I guess it is something that has always been there and I am just getting more critical as I continue to look at the same picture. My relative point of comparison is so much higher now.

Oddly enough when I arrived home to see my new 52725, I saw a JVC DILA sitting on my stand. The delivery men left the wrong TV, not to mention the wrong DVD player. A Denon 1910 was delivered instead of the Cambridge Audio which I ordered. What a cluster*&#@$.

But anyway all I can say is I can't wait to receive the Mits because I don't really care for the picture quality of the JVC. That 3D feel of the Mits just doesn't appear on the JVC and any grey colors seem to be busy.

Certainly glad I chose the Mits.

Scpannel/reddan805

Thanks for your earlier feedback on the HDMI issue.

I ended up using Component -1 connection - on the 52725 to the Sam360. The DVI to HDMI PQ was never very good compared to Comp-1. I tried two different Munster cables- same each time.

All other stuff on the Wd52725 is great - especially the NetCommand.

Originally posted by subwoofer
and when are the x85s coming out? any ideas?

I bet they will go for about $5000, right?


Assuming you're referring to the x825's, I changed my order from a 725 to an 825 recently (at Tweeter.) Obviously I can't discuss the specific price, but it was about $1200.00 more than the 725, and I'm told not to expect it until November 5th.

- Tom

t-
can you PM me as to whether you were able to negotiate with the Tweeter folks and to what extent?

Originally posted by Mac3150
Snowbum: I just returned my 52525 to BB due to reset and tilt issues and they will not be getting the 725 series. BB has their Magnolia stores in California and other western states which may carry the 725 but BB will not.

Well I went back one more time based on the advice of the person who earlier posted a reply indiccating that BB was going to carry the xx725. The girl at Customer Service did an exhaustive search and was still unable to find the xx725 series anywhere in the BB system. This really sucks because that means if I want the 725 I have to return the 525 to BB and lose the 10% off deal that they gave me. I doubt other retailers will honor this.

Where is everyone on the east coast purchasing the 725? I heard someone mention earlier that they were able to negotiate a 12% off deal. Where was this? Am I obsessing too much about having the latest and greatest television when there really isn't that much difference between the 525 and 725 series TVs?

Originally posted by DGoody
cjut01,

From what I've heard, BB probably isn't going to carry the xx725 or xx825 in their normal stores. They will carry it in their "Magnolia" stores which is essentially their high-end brand store for the BB label. I actually had a xx725 ordered from a Magnolia store in the LA area and they were going to deliver to San Diego for the same price from their local BB.

Worth looking into.

Is there a "Magnolia" store anywhere in Maryland? Also, if I go into a Magnolia store, how should I ask them to search for it? Do Magnolia stores use a different inventory system than the regular BB stores. Thanks for your help in advance.

Maybe I'm alone in this, but I find it a little morally questionable that you bought a 62525 with intentions of returning it later. Guess you just couldn't wait, huh?

Anyway, if you consider Savannah, GA east coast I bought mine at Audio Warehouse. They're only a small, high-end regional chain though. Stores in Georgia and South Carolina.

Originally posted by kbarduca
If you press Menu then 2457 then rewind you can get to the tilt service menu. Do Not mess around with anything else, I hear you can mess it up pretty bad if you don't know what you are doing. Check it out.

Thanks Kevin Barduca (A-1)

Are there other codes that grant access to other features? Maybe someone could create a FAQ for all the various codes. Are these menus considered the Service Menus? If not, how do they differ?

Originally posted by TheMostToyzWins
Benji,

Yes it is a good thing, it is also common with most 720p TV's (your TV has a native resolution of 720p.) 720p is more difficult to display (there is more data to process in a given period of time) than 1080i. So there is no significant technical reason a 720p TV could not up convert a 1080i signal and display it.
The same is not true for the reverse, many (especially older) 1080i TV's are not capable of displaying 720p.
Then of course there are the anomalies of the world, like the RCA DLP's that have a native resolution of 720p, but for some reason (probably to save $0.25) they do not accept 720p as an input, but instead require a 1080i (that is then converted to 720p to be displayed.)

In any case, congratulations and enjoy.

How do you know which resolution a particular program is being broadcast? I also have a 62525 and a Samsung 360 HD DirecTV box. I usually leave the resolution at 720P. Do I lose PQ while watching a program that is being broadcast in 1080i if I am watching it in 720P? I thought really the only difference is that you get bars on the side of the screen if a program is being broadcast in a mode other than the one you are watching. I am so confused about all of this.

720p and 1080i have nothing to do with the aspect ratio of the program. They are all 16:9.

Originally posted by HDSapper
Maybe I'm alone in this, but I find it a little morally questionable that you bought a 62525 with intentions of returning it later. Guess you just couldn't wait, huh?

Anyway, if you consider Savannah, GA east coast I bought mine at Audio Warehouse. They're only a small, high-end regional chain though. Stores in Georgia and South Carolina.


Actually I couldn't wait. We were in the process of buying a new house when I sold my former CRT projection television. I then began to do some research to determine which new TV I wanted. It was only after purchasing my 525 series TV that I learned that the 725 series would soon be out. Of course the release dates for the 725 series was widely speculated. I couldn't move in to my new house and wait almost four weeks to get a TV. So to address your concerns, I didn't purchase this unit with the intent to return it.

Since you have appointed yourself the moral conscience of this thread am I now required to bow and beg your forgiveness?

Stand up son, you're embarassing me! :o

Snowbum,

Don't get all bent out of shape... Some people do buy TVs (and other large ticket items) with every intent of returning them. This causes the store to lose money and may cause prices to go up for the rest of us. It just sounded suspicious to HDSapper when you posted your info.

I've been reading some here and there that everyone is excited for the xx825 because of its internal harddrive to record SD or HD for 120 GB. I forget how many hours that is, but I think its alot from what I have heard. So can someone explain to me the advantage of this and its firewire capablity? thanks

Originally posted by subwoofer
I've been reading some here and there that everyone is excited for the xx825 because of its internal harddrive to record SD or HD for 120 GB. I forget how many hours that is, but I think its alot from what I have heard. So can someone explain to me the advantage of this and its firewire capablity? thanks

From what I understand, it's about 12 hours worth of HD programming, or 70 hours worth of SD programming. For me, one advantage to the internal PVR is that, using both a cable card and a STB, I should be able to record one source while viewing another. Currently, Comcast (in our area) doesn't offer a two-tuner DVR solution, so this is my next best bet. The 825's internal PVR is supposed to be able to record from a number of different sources, so it seems like it should be fairly flexible. Can't expound on the firewire capabilities though ... don't know much about it. Perhaps someone else will jump in here.

- Tom

Was planing on getting a 52825 but the 825 stand LOOKS like it has only one shelf (Is that true?) does your 725 stand have 2 shelves? I have to get a big Audio amp and a DVD player under there..perhaps even a cable box.

Originally posted by Snowbum
Are there other codes that grant access to other features? Maybe someone could create a FAQ for all the various codes. Are these menus considered the Service Menus? If not, how do they differ?

My service guy has not got certified on the mitsu DLP's yet. So I am not sure how to adjust anything. I do Know after hitting menu 2457 and then rewind, you can hit rewind and cycle through all of the adjustments. What they are, I have no idea. All I know is that you can view the tilt. As soon as I find out anything I will post what I found out.

Thanks Kevin Barduca (A-1)

Originally posted by k2koq
Was planing on getting a 52825 but the 825 stand LOOKS like it has only one shelf (Is that true?) does your 725 stand have 2 shelves? I have to get a big Audio amp and a DVD player under there..perhaps even a cable box.

It sure does appear that way. I've ordered the matching base along with the 825, figuring that A) The matching lines will ultimately look better and B) Presumabley Mits has designed it to provide the optimal screen height in terms of viewing. Regardless, you raise a good point. I hadn't really noticed the (seemingly) one-shelf deal, maybe because the 525/725 base has two shelves. I too will have to find room for a STB, DVD, surround Receiver AND a rather large center channel speaker. Guess I'll have my work cut out for me. :rolleyes:

ttownsend: Can you, or anyone, tell me what the height of the Mits stand is? (Can't find it on their website.)

Originally posted by millerwill
ttownsend: Can you, or anyone, tell me what the height of the Mits stand is? (Can't find it on their website.)

Wish I could, but I haven't received it yet, and like you, I haven't been able to find a source for the actual dimensions. It seems to me I recall reading a few posts in which someone (or someones) provided approximate dimensions of the 525 stand (which is also the 725 stand), but I don't think anyone (except Mits) yet knows the dimensions of the 825 stand. Ironically, although I have to wait until November for my 825, I've been told by Tweeter that the matching stand will be in sometime early next week. However, unlike the 525/725 stands, Tweeter considers the 825 stands a "special order", which carries (I believe) a 50% restocking fee if I should decide to return it for any reason. So, I'm not sure if I want to go ahead an open up the box before I've actually seen the set. If I do though, I'll post the dimensions.

- Tom

The stand for the 525/725 is 14" H. I'm also trying to find out how high the 825 stand will be/or is. Obviously the width of the stand is the same as the display. I may use that for the 725 if it is shorter, which it does appear to be. If I had to guess I would think around 12" for the 825. I'm trying to get info from Mits.
Whatever I find out I will post.

Originally posted by metaldog99
52725 delivered and setup from Ultimate Electronics on Friday.

I'm driving this mostly with HD DirecTivo unit via HDMI @ 1080i. I've noticed that after shutting off the TV at night and then turning on in the morning that the only way I can get the TV to display is by cycling through the different formats of the HDTivo. Maybe this is discussed in other threads related to the HDTivo unit - been reading too many other posts lately to remember.

metaldog99,

I am driving my 62725 w/ HD Tivo and started see similar behavior to your description. I'm using a component patch because my Tivo has the dreaded HDMI problem (see tivocommunity forum).

Everything worked fine for the first 3 days, then started "de-syncing" on power-up. Haven't had much time to really characterize it, but I'll try and sub my other TV w/ component in to rule out the Tivo. I also need to see if this occurs when the source is DVD on P/U.

I should be receiving a firmware patch today. With firmware, any symptom is possible.

Fingers crossed,
Rick

Originally posted by ttownsend
From what I understand, it's about 12 hours worth of HD programming, or 70 hours worth of SD programming. For me, one advantage to the internal PVR is that, using both a cable card and a STB, I should be able to record one source while viewing another. Currently, Comcast (in our area) doesn't offer a two-tuner DVR solution, so this is my next best bet. The 825's internal PVR is supposed to be able to record from a number of different sources, so it seems like it should be fairly flexible. Can't expound on the firewire capabilities though ... don't know much about it. Perhaps someone else will jump in here.

- Tom

I can't imagine them making software on these DLP tvs that wouldn't allow you to view another channel while recording something else. That would be terrible if you have to watch what you are recording. I guess with firewire you can burn recordings from the harddrive to a disc. That would be interesting but I think I'm going to hold off on getting a DLP until next year and see what Mits and Sammy have to offer.

If I use a DVI to HDMI for my video with a 725, is there a way to get a digital audio input to the TV ?

Originally posted by pjr
If I use a DVI to HDMI for my video with a 725, is there a way to get a digital audio input to the TV ? Depending on the digital audio output of your receiver, you would need either a rca cable (coaxial) or optical digital cable from your HDTV receiver to your A/V receiver, not your TV.

GG delivered my TV late last night and I could not stop myself from watching to wonderful picture and tweaking it until 1:00am. No rainbows, no tilt, no stuck mirrors, no excessive fan noise. HD TV is awesome through Dish 6000 via component video cables. SD is better than I expected through Dish PVR via S-video. DVD is excellent through my old Toshiba SD5700 via component video.

I did a little tweaking with AVIA and will do some more tonight. I had a question for all you 725 owners which setting on my HD Dish receiver should I be using the 1080I or the 720P? I could really not tell much of a difference.

This TV and this site and all of the forum members are awesome!!!!

Thanks :)

I plan on using the scaler I just bought that has just digital audio out. I wanted to use it even when just watching something like the news that I don't need my surround system for. But I wanted the audio to come out of the scaler as it puts in the delay necessary for the video processing. Easy never seems to work. If anyone else has any ideas please let me know. That seems to be the only problem with the 725, I sure do like the rest.

Now that a number of xx725's are out there, I wonder how many of you are using them with the outer screen removed? And if so, do you see any decline in PQ without the outer screen? Thanks much for someone still trying to decide!

I haven't tried it w/o screen yet. Don't feel a need to, since the glare is minimal during the brightest times of day.

I have reasonably good control of the light via horizontal blinds.

biggersbetter: Thanks much! That's more encouraging news about the glare of the 725's than I've heard in some comments.

725 taking too long to get here, don't have any stock in area...dammit.

Originally posted by biggersbetter
I haven't tried it w/o screen yet. Don't feel a need to, since the glare is minimal during the brightest times of day.

I have reasonably good control of the light via horizontal blinds.

millerswill:

i doubt that you will be able to make a screen/no-screen decision based on these posts. everyone has varying in-coming light, control over that light, and tolerance to glare off the screen.

you should probably just set that puppy up and try it. it's only a 5 min operation to remove if you want to.

biggersbetter: Thanks again. Yes, I just need to go down to Mag HiFi and look at the thing for an hour or so, and get them to take the screen off. I have seen some comments that the PQ degrades slightly with it off, so want to see if I really notice that or not.

Originally posted by time4akshun
Coax? That is the worst connection you can use to ANY TV. That explains your image issues. S-video is the least quality cable I would ever use. Huge difference between the two.

Never use coax for any connection to any TV!!!

Time

I woujld really watch it making blanket statements like that. Consider that some manufacturers allow 480i (SD) signals to pass through the circuitry unmolested by scaling and some other processing in the interest of preserving signal quality. These signal paths are usually composite video inputs and the NTSC tuner if present. Though other inputs willl pass higher definition signals, that does not mean they are the right connections for the humbler SD signals.

As I read more on these forums, I am convinced that some (NOT ALL) of the poor SD performance experienced by owners of HDTV sets is due to using the fancy new inputs when, in fact, the old ones may work better for SD content. It is easy to try, and may solve a problem that would otherwise seem intractible.

did a little tweaking with AVIA and will do some more tonight. I had a question for all you 725 owners which setting on my HD Dish receiver should I be using the 1080I or the 720P? I could really not tell much of a difference.

I had a DISH 6000 before I bought my HD DVR the DISH 921. I have played with both 1080i and 720P. I have mine set at 1080i and have kept it there. I like you don't really see a difference.

Originally posted by hyperdoc
Earlier, I posted a question about the PQ, noise, pixelation etc in large same color areas.

Well tonight I was at Ultimate Electronics where I bought my 52725. I looked at all the DLPs (Mits, Sammy, Phillips) and they all had that same pixelation in the same spots. I went over to a plasma and even saw a little of it in the plasma.

So I guess it is something that has always been there and I am just getting more critical as I continue to look at the same picture. My relative point of comparison is so much higher now.

If it is on all three sets then it is arriving with the signal. One thing I llike to ook at are the little logotypes that broadcasters oftn put in the corners of the screens. These tend to have some little pixel artifacts surrounding them if the signal is less than perfect. The amount of this distortion (i.e., the artifacts) is a good indicator as to the degree to which the signal has been compressed by the satellite service or other signal provider. In any case, if you see an effect on one screen, look for it on another screen. If it is the same on both screens then it arrived with the signal and you can discount it in evaluating the set itself. If it differs then you have definitely learned something and it is probably worth more examination.

I have found that politely asking questions about artifacts unique to a set is an amazingly quick way to get rid of inexperienced sales people and getting someone involved who knows their stuff. It is perverse fun to watch someone who wanted you to think he was "all that" three minutes ago wilt right in front of you. Unfortunately finding wierd problems with the pictures has also caused me to raise enough questions in my own mind about the RP-HDTV's that I have chosen not to buy one yet.

Help! Someone remind me (62725) how to get the HDMI device to show up as an input....it's not shoiwing up in the device list when I'm trying to hook up my HD sat.

I've been reading these threads for months and now that I have my TV I can't remember how to get it to recognize the HDMI input?!?!?

BTW....I LOVE IT so far....more details later. Thanks!!!

Just finished flashing firmware on my 62725

Observations:

1) Software rev before flash = V26 004.03 (I know, it may not represent the actual FW state)

2) Software rev after flash = V26 004.03 no change

3) Before I stuck the card in the TV, I viewed the directory structure. All three *.cmp files were dated 9/16/04. These are the largest files at root directory. Three folders (demo, Pattern, SYS5) seem to contain the demo images and test patterns etc. The images even come up in XP file mgr.

4) Update on TV went smoothly.

5) Afterward, I stuck the CF card back in the PC. The update program wipes the card clean !

Time will tell if this did anything.

BTW, my sync problem on P/U is NOT the Tivo. I can switch inputs to DVD or any other video source and I gain sync. I'll be watching for whether this changes.

Rick

Help! Someone remind me (62725) how to get the HDMI device to show up as an input....it's not shoiwing up in the device list when I'm trying to hook up my HD sat.


You have to map the MONLINK TV input in the Netcommand menu to the device. MONLINK is the HDMI input.

Originally posted by scpanel
You have to map the MONLINK TV input in the Netcommand menu to the device. MONLINK is the HDMI input.

Ahhh...now I remember. Thanks so much!

I am curious to see if you have any issues with your HDMI cable making a snug connection. I ended up trying a third one and it fits much tighter. The folks at BlueJeans Cables have been great.

So since there is nothing else wrong with my set, so far anyway, I am afraid to have it replaced just because of the HDMI port for fear that the replacement will have other bigger problems.

getting my 62725 on Sunday

Well...I'm pulling the trigger this weekend. Local Mom & Pop store just got the 52725's and 62725's instock. I just need to make two choices:

1) 52" or 62"? I was going to get the 62", but after seeing it, it really is huge and the 52" may be a bit more "comfortable" to watch. I also noticed the 52" was brighter, as others have noted.

2) I have Charter cable, and I'm not even sure they offer HD in my area (Roanoke, VA). Their web site does not list my area and I can't get anybody on the phone that knows anything. Looks like I may need to go with DirecTV. Yet another added cost. Oh well.

Can someone post a pic with the screen removed on the xx725?

Thanks!

Originally posted by scpanel
I am curious to see if you have any issues with your HDMI cable making a snug connection. I ended up trying a third one and it fits much tighter. The folks at BlueJeans Cables have been great.


I picked up my 62725 last night. I have a DVI/HDMI cable from PacificCable for my Denon 1910 and it is working very well so far. The HDMI connection is a perfect fit.

We just had our 52725 delivered Sept. 21st and have had no problems with it until yesterday. I went to turn the set on from the remote and nothing happened. Went to the front of the set and pushed Power, and still nothing turned on. Did a "soft reset", unplugging the set from the APC and plugged it back in. then it worked. I was just turning the TV on, not any of the components, ie Dish-811, Denon-1804, Dish-510, Sammy 931 DVD player, or the JVC-S-VHS. Has this happened to anyone else? I called UE and they said to call the Mits Consumer Help people. Called them and told them of the problem, and they said they hadn't heard of such a thing with the XX725's. They said that I should talk to a Technician about this and that it will take from 24 to 48 business hours until they can get to me. I thought that this would be a little faster in getting an answer from the "Pro's" on this forum, so here I am. Oh, also after I had done the reset, there was a message asking if I had just replaced the bulb or not, and to hit "Pause" if I didn't, I hit Pause. This is sure puzzling to me. UE said that they would swap out this set with another if need be, but I sure would like to keep this one. The PQ is amazing to behold. I had not seen HD before this one and it is----- breathtaking. Any response will be greatly appreciated. Thanks:
Lyle:confused:

Parlyle,

I have not had any startup issues with mine and I have had it about 15 days now and have 205 hours on it so far. Sounds strange to me.

parlyle,

I've seen a similar symptom, but approached it differently

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4429024#post4429024

Yesterday I flashed the firmware with what Mits CR claims is their latest version for this model. No dead unit problem since then but it's much too early to tell for sure.

I also have a sync problem on component video inputs via my A/V receiver.

Search thru my posts for details on that.

Good Luck

The main difference between the 525 and 725 IS the screen and the finish(much less important)! Why would you have paid the extra $$ to go ahead and take the screen off anyway??

Time

Originally posted by biggersbetter
parlyle,

I've seen a similar symptom, but approached it differently

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4429024#post4429024
Yesterday I flashed the firmware with what Mits CR claims is their latest version for this model. No dead unit problem since then but it's much too early to tell for sure.
I also have a sync problem on component video inputs via my A/V receiver.
Search thru my posts for details on that.

Good Luck
Biggersbetter: After posing the question waiting for the answers, I remember that we had the sync problem last night on CBS. Watching "Joan of Arcadia" in HD. My wife mentioned that the video and audio wasn't the same. I switched to another channel and found no problem, switched back to CBS and it was ok. Audio is coaxial digital (TV) > A/V reciever (Denon-1804) This is wierd. Also, when I talked to the Mits CR, she said that there wasn't any CF card for the xx725's to be had. I wonder what is happening? Did you call and request the firmware update, or did they volunteer the card to you? Thanks: Lyle

Does anyone know how to get a Zenith 318 to work via the dvi to hdmi?

i have a 52725 and i'm having trouble getting the tv to even see the dvd player. its wierd....the dvd player then freezes. it won't even power down. i have to unplug it.

i thought someone said something about making it work through the menu on the dvd player but can't find anything right now.......HELP!!!


thanks nick

I purchased a 52725 from PC Richards on Long Island two sundays ago- took advantage of the Mits financing.

My salesperson is a long-time salesperson my family has used for over a decade. I brought in an XBox, HD kit, and some games and DVDs.

We used the in-stock 52525 to test things out.

XBOX:

First was Ninja Gaiden at 480p. No noticable delay. Had to tap the screen format mode button on the mits remote as it turned out that Ninja Gaiden supported WS at 480p. Still no delay.

Second was Tony Hawk Pro Scater 4 at 720p WS. Again, no delay.

Third was Soul Caliber II at 720p. This game imposes vertical letter-boxing on 720p to ensure the same experience is had by 720 16:9 and 480 4:3 users. Again, no delay.

Last was Enter the Matrix in 1080i.

I love the fact that the input denotes the format. My Sony 40" XBR800 doesn't do this and its a bit annoying.

Then onto DVDs. He brought over a Sony Prog-scan DVD unit. He didn't have the remote handy and my 4-year old daughter was getting antsy, so we went with it in the letter-box aspect instead of widescreen.

Nemo and Attack of the Clones looked great as expected.

I did see some noise on the Superbit version of Charlies' Angels. I suspect the source DVD and not the TV since everything else looked great.

The tests, I concluded, were reasonably valid as the 525 I tested on is electornically equivelant to the 725. The glare on the 525 was horrible- worse than my glass picture tube on the 40" Sony XBR.

I suspect the 725 will be no worse than the Sony, so I decided to buy.

I am hearing it will be expected in the warehouse on the 8th of October. This has been a very long two weeks and this week looks to be even longer.

The stand for the 52725 (it is the same stand as the 52525) arrived last Sunday- it's still in the garage. I have to figure out how to move the 40" Sony (all bulky 4:3 @ 308lbs of it) downstairs. The guys who dropped off the stand said they'd do it for extra cash, but there was no gaurantee I would have the same crew dropping off the mitsubishi when it's in stock.

Surrounding the TV now (and the Mits when it arrives) is the Sierra Oak wall-unit from Sauder. (I can't add a link to this unit because I am still a newbie- PM me if you want it).

With the 52725 clocking in at 49.6" wide and the Sierra wall unit expandable up to 50.5" (and there is a wider margin to open that a bit more), it's a good fit for the room. I would never have been able to get the 62" to fit this room comfortably with our furnature and my kid's toys.

The room is 11'wx16L', so the 52 should be comfortable.

I have been monitoring this forum for a few weeks now and am very grateful for those of you who have been sharing their experiences (good and bad).

I will update when I get more info on my own progress.

Has anyone swapped thier WD-62525 for the WD-62725? If so, how much extra did you pay for the swap?

I'm looking to do this, and don't want to get "screwed".

I just received my 62725 today. I've spent a lot of time today playing with it and configuring it. I'm having a little problem with the xbox PQ, however. I'm using component cables, it's set to 480p (rather than 480i), in widescreen mode. In Halo, for example, it definitely has a better picture than in 480i mode, but the text has a shadowed/blurred look to them. I've tried messing with sharpness, contrast, etc, but nothing seems to help it. Is there something else that I'm missing?

Thanks!

I'm looking to do this, and don't want to get "screwed".


You made the decision to buy the 525, not anyone else. Don't understand why people want to blame someone else for their decisions......

For those using a HTPC and a ATI video card....

Try using the Component output. Some folks with the Hitachi sets have been very pleased with the component output vs. the DVI/HDMI output. You can obtain a DVI to Component adapter from ATI's website (under accessories). If you have a All In Wonder card you already have a Component output. Just upgrade your ATI drivers to the latest and greatest before drilling ahead.

HTPC usability will make or break my decision on a set, so I'm interested to see how this will work.

--Chris

Have a 62725 being delivered next Friday afternoon. Thought I negotiated a good deal (like everyone else), however, then the salesman discussed need for "clean power" and I ended up buying a stage two line conditioner. Did I buy something appropriate or snake oil? I am a newby and this is my first post. But I having been lurking around this forum for some time. It is great!

Yesterday, Saturday October 2nd, I stopped by my Tweeter and put the deposit down for the 62725. I was told they hit Atlanta GA on Tuesday October 5th and my local Tweeter here in Charlotte NC on or around Friday October 8th. I am VERY EXITED!

I shopped for 6 weeks. At first I was dead set on going with one of the Sami's. Sami had the 6163 but the HD3 chip (a chip I did not want). The 6197 (with xHD3 chip) sounds ultra cool but will not be out until . . .? Febuary? and costs $6,000.+ ? ?
And as far as I know Sami's not making a 6174 with HD2+ chip.

So Mitsubishi is the logical choice for me. Ironicly, (and despite the fact I wanted to go with any other company), this will be my 3rd Mitsubishi tv in a row! It just seems that what ever I do, I cannot get away from this stealthy, sneaky, yet powerful TV manufacter. (With the exception of Plasma TV) they always seem to trump the competition in the end.

Did I mention . . . .

I am extremly exited!

On order:

WD-62725

The Medallion 725 Series MicroDisplay Integrated Digital Cable Ready HDTVs introduce new optical technology and easy-to-use program guides in slim compact cabinets.

Annoying reflections are eliminated by the Anti-Glare Diamond Shield™ which also protects the screen and improves contrast.

The Mitsubishi 1280 X 720 Pixel DLP™ Light Engine totally eliminates drift in convergence, geometry and focus. It creates images that set new, higher standards for brightness, resolution and clarity.

Best Picture
Easiest To Use
Mitsubishi 1280 x 720p
DLP™ Light Engine
AMVP2™
PerfectColor™
Dark Detailer™
DefinEdge™
480-Line Motion-Adaptive 3D Y/C Comb Filter
Auto Film Mode
Anti-Glare Diamond Shield™
5" Coaxial Speakers
CableCARD™ Slot
NetCommand® 4.0
FireWire® (IEEE 1394)
MediaCommand™
HDMI™ Input
Freeze-Frame
8 Format Modes
Front Replaceable Lamp
Compact Tabletop Design
Optional Matching Base

for all of you 725/525 owners out there - were any of you looking at the sony grand wega series and comparing it to the mitsu dlp's? If so, what tipped the scales in the dlp's favor?

Originally posted by joeld100
for all of you 725/525 owners out there - were any of you looking at the sony grand wega series and comparing it to the mitsu dlp's? If so, what tipped the scales in the dlp's favor?

I have an 825 on order, but for a number of months now, I was certain my set would be the Grand Wega (XBR) 70" LCD. (I'm currently running a 5-year old Sony Wega XBR200 36", and I love it. The picture is so good that once in a rare while, someone will ask me if it's "one of those new HD sets". Of course I have to tell them 'no', but it's a compliment to Sony's engineering regardless.)

In the end however, I ultimately chose the 725 (and then recently changed my preorder to the 825). Of course, nobody has yet seen the 825, so I had to make my decision by comparing the Grand Wega with a 525 that also was on display at my local Tweeter. That wasn't easy for me ... they're both excellent sets in my opinion, but what swayed me in the direction of the Mits DLP was a slightly wider viewing angle (which is important for my particular viewing room at home) and a slightly brighter, crisper image. Even then, I must have hesitated two or three times before making the final decision. I honestly don't believe a person could go wrong with either set ... there are things I definitely like about the Grand Wega. I suppose the bottom line is something that has been repeated over and over in this forum ... it's a matter of personal taste, we all have to make the decisions for ourselves. Good Luck with whatever decision you make!

- Tom

Benji or anyone else,

When you take the glare screen off due you see unfinished wood or glue or ?

What does it look like w/o the screen?

Originally posted by krichey
Have a 62725 being delivered next Friday afternoon. Thought I negotiated a good deal (like everyone else), however, then the salesman discussed need for "clean power" and I ended up buying a stage two line conditioner. Did I buy something appropriate or snake oil? I am a newby and this is my first post. But I having been lurking around this forum for some time. It is great!

Krichey: Check out this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=277384

Originally posted by Jim Christian
Benji or anyone else,

When you take the glare screen off due you see unfinished wood or glue or ?

What does it look like w/o the screen? At first, I didn't mind the appearance, but ultimately, I changed my mind and decided the set did not look like a $4,500 TV anymore with the screen off. It has sort of a dull, unfinished look to it. Also the Mitsubishi logo is on the protective screen, so that is missing when the screen is removed. And lastly, after replacing the screen, I've come to the conclusion, the TV image actually looks better (more depth to the image) with the screen on. Unfortunately, I work in the middle of the night and do my sleeping from sundown until midnight. Most of my viewing is during daylight, and the glare on the 62525 I've decided isn't tolerable. So I am sending this set back and going for the 62725. I had fully intended to keep the 525 but like John Kerry, I reserve the right to flip-flop.

You made the decision to buy the 525, not anyone else. Don't understand why people want to blame someone else for their decisions......

Perhaps I didn't make myself clear.

When I purchased the WD-62525 the salesman told me that I could swap it out for the WD-62725 when they arrived. He didn't have pricing at the time, so he couldn't tell me what the price difference would be.

There is NO "blame" invovled anywhere here.

Originally posted by Keyser Sose
Has anyone swapped thier WD-62525 for the WD-62725? If so, how much extra did you pay for the swap?

I'm looking to do this, and don't want to get "screwed".

you got PM :D

When watching Cable/OTA, can anyone get the automatic Analog/Digital audio "switching" to work properly between their Mitsu DLP and their AV Receiver?

I have a Denon 2805 and the WD62725 and here are my connections from TV to AVR:
- Digital out (Digital Coax) from the TV goes to the Coax2 input of the 2805
- Audio2 (composite) from the TV goes to the TV Analog input of the 2805.

When I switch between Analog and Digital stations, the AVR does not recognize the audio change. I have to manually select Analog or Digital on the AVR as appropriate.

I know this has been discussed before here, but my understanding is that the TV and AVR are both able to automatically do this. Does anyone's DLP/AVR combination do this? If so, which AVR are you using?

Thanks...

dont know if this is a bit off topic, but what happens to the PQ if you use a DVI adapter to connect this TV??
I have a Voom STB, and A Samsung HD 931 DVD player; both have DVI outs, and I would like to connect at least the SAT box via DVI...

Sorry if this has been covered in this thread already..

TIA!

I'm sure this has been discussed before, but I can't find it. Does the Mits have a 7 segment color wheel? And if, so, how do you know? (its not in the user guide/spec sheet that I have seen)

MY 62725 is IN!!!! Delivery scheduled for today from Sound City Denville, NJ!!!

Will post pics if I can.

Time

I've had my 62725 for about 4 days now and so far have been very impressed with the picture quality from HD, SD and DVD. My family and I watched HD football all day long and thought it was awesome. I think the display is a great deal better than my 4 year old Mits 46 wide-screen RP-CRT.

Last night I was doing some fine tuning with the room very dark and using the AVIA disk, comparing my settings to SCPANNEL's when I noticed what I think are the infamous rainbows. I was in the advanced screens adjusting the contrast and brightness settings. Whenever I came to a test pattern that had a bright white vertical or horizontal line or cross-hairs in the pattern....if I looked up or blinked I would see to the side of the bright line a flash of red and green.

ARE THESE THE RAINBOWS everyone keeps talking about????

I don't notice these flashes while watching HD SD or DVD's in bright or dark lighting conditions. Has anyone else noticed this effect when using the AVIA disk?

Hi all,

After months and months of research and discourse, I ordered the WD-62725 on Friday. I expect to receive within a week. I got it from Tweeter in Milford, Ct. In the end, they were very good to work with and I got my 30 day return policy, which was the deal breaker at some of the local (Long Island) B&Ms.

I now look forward to watching and tweaking and will find these forums and this thread an invaluable resource, no doubt. I have a new Denon 3910 DVD player just waiting to be "HDMI connected"!

Originally posted by cjut01
Hi all,

After months and months of research and discourse, I ordered the WD-62725 on Friday. I expect to receive within a week. I got it from Tweeter in Milford, Ct. In the end, they were very good to work with and I got my 30 day return policy, which was the deal breaker at some of the local (Long Island) B&Ms.

I now look forward to watching and tweaking and will find these forums and this thread an invaluable resource, no doubt. I have a new Denon 3910 DVD player just waiting to be "HDMI connected"!

cjut01 ... Congrats on your purchase!!! Funny, but I bet the next few days will seem to take much longer than the past "months and months". :p

By any chance did you purchase an Extended Warranty from Tweeter? I have an 825 on pre-order, but haven't yet had any warranty discussions with them. If you did, do you recall if bulb-replacement is included?

Also, once you have the 3910 and the 725 working together, please post your results. I'm considering either the 3910, or perhaps the lesser 2910.

Thanks.

- Tom

I'm also waiting for my WD-62725 to come in and am considering getting the DVD-3910 too. Going to see how my Tosh SD-9200 looks first. Can't wait to hear how your new toys play together! Congrats!

I picked up my 62725 on Saturday and I've had a few bad experiences that I'm still working on correcting. If anyone can suggest solutions to the problems below, I REALLY appreciate it.

- I definitely experience the green glow on standard cable. This glow can be really bad on text and just makes the PQ look horrible. I'm going to get an OTA antenna to receive HD signals, which will hopefully fix this problem. Will a new firmware version help this?

- For some reason, the RCA audio out on the TV only outputs sound on the left (L) channel. Nothing is coming out the right. I tested my speakers, the speaker connections, and the cable itself and they're not the problem. There is definitely nothing coming out that plug. It's acting like it's only outputting mono, but it's a stereo cable signal. This problem really worries me, so if anyone can suggest a solution, please do!

- DVDs still have horizontal bars. I made sure my DVD player was set in 16:9 mode, which helped some. DVD is in progressive mode as well (which shouldn't matter). I flipped though all the TV display modes (stretch, standard, zoom, etc), but still have the black bars. I tried multiple movies, but no luck. I'm using component cables and it is in 480p mode. Anyone suggest a fix?

- I hooked up my Xbox via component cables, put it in HD mode, so now it's displaying in 480p when playing Halo (all that really matters). The picture looks great, however, TEXT has a shadowed look to them. I've tried turning on and off each of the TV video settings, such as "define lines" and "signal noise", but they don't seem to affect the problem. Anyone experience this?

For my component cables, I'm using Monster video 3 cables. My firmware version is V26 004.03.

If anyone can offer any suggestions, I really appreciate it! Thanks!

Originally posted by neoikon

- DVDs still have horizontal bars. I made sure my DVD player was set in 16:9 mode, which helped some. DVD is in progressive mode as well (which shouldn't matter). I flipped though all the TV display modes (stretch, standard, zoom, etc), but still have the black bars. I tried multiple movies, but no luck. I'm using component cables and it is in 480p mode. Anyone suggest a fix?
.....

If anyone can offer any suggestions, I really appreciate it! Thanks!

neoikon ... there's a thread discussing this very subject listed at the top of this forum. Even with a 16:9 screen, you are still often going to see horizontal bars. It largely depends upon the aspect ratio in which the movie was originally filmed.

Originally posted by neoikon


- For some reason, the RCA audio out on the TV only outputs sound on the left (L) channel. Nothing is coming out the right. I tested my speakers, the speaker connections, and the cable itself and they're not the problem. There is definitely nothing coming out that plug. It's acting like it's only outputting mono, but it's a stereo cable signal. This problem really worries me, so if anyone can suggest a solution, please do!


cycle through the AUDIO menu on the TV and make sure you are set to LISTEN TO Stereo...

ttownsend,

Thanks for the reply. That's what I figured. But I thought I'd just check, since I tested some "new" movies and ones that are anamorphic, but still have the bars.

This particular problem isn't a deal killer for me. The biggest problem I'm having is no sound coming out the right (R) channel on the RCA out when watching standard cable (which I'm assuming will still be a problem if I were to use an OTA antenna).

I'll say GOOD BY !! to this xx725 thread..............

The rainbows won !! I see them almost all the time now, and even my wife sees them too. I went this weekend back to the video store and traded the DLP in for the Sony LCD 55 inch.

The rainbows were not seen for the first 10 days and then once I started seeing them, they got worse and did't go away...........weird !!

Hello Sony WEGA LCD thread.............

UMD_Terp,

Thanks for the reply! I've gone though all the options under the AUDIO menu and everything seems as expected (such as it saying set to "stereo"). Also, when I just hit the info button, it says "stereo". I'll have to take another look when I get home. Because everything seems to be set to "stereo", it makes me scared that it could be a hardware problem.

I also tried using the digital audio out, but nothing comes out of there (which could be because I'm just using standard cable (not even digital cable)).

If you don't have a digital source, channel or otherwise, you won't get anything out of your digital output.

neoikon,

perhaps also try a few more trouble shooting steps to rule out the possibility of it being something else, say the rca cables. You might try switching cables at the back of the TV and see if the sound moves into the right channel. If it does, that would rule out the cables and the amplifier from being defective. BUT... if the sound stays on the left, then its not the TVs fault.

You may have to try several things to narrow down the possibilities.

HDSapper,

Thanks for the suggestion! I tried the steps like you said, by plugging the left (L) cable to the right (R) on the receiver and sound comes out of the right channel, as expected. I also tried different cables and swapping the R and L (to make sure the cable's not bad).

Also, with different sources (connected directly to the receiver), sound comes out of all the speakers, so I know it's not the amp, speakers, or connections to the speakers.

It seems that nothing is coming out the R plug on the back of the TV.


UMD_Terp,

Yeah, I didn't really expect anything to come out of the digital out, due to the source, but I thought I'd give it a shot.

...Also, once you have the 3910 and the 725 working together, please post your results. I'm considering either the 3910, or perhaps the lesser 2910.

I too am considering a 3910 and am also interested in others results. I have to say I am using a discontinued $200 Panasonic XP30 that came In 3rd in the DVD benchmark tests and picture is pretty darn good.

So I am not sure I can justify spending over $1000 on a DVD player anymore until the new HD DVD format takes hold

Originally posted by scpanel
...
So I am not sure I can justify spending over $1000 on a DVD player anymore until the new HD DVD format takes hold

my thoughts as well... I am considering the 2910 instead and also the new Panasonic S-97 that should be out soon. Both are reasonably priced and should be good hold overs until HD-DVD.

I thought samsung has an HD-DVD player for $300 or so. It converts DVDs to 720p or 1080i

A comment about the problems discussed above of getting audio out to all tv channels via a digital connection:

I, too, am a 'Sammy lurker' being intrigued by the possibly higher PQ of the Mits dlp. With my hlp 6163, though, everything is trivial with regard to the above issue: I connect the Moto 6200 cable box to the tv via DVI and the cable box to the AV receiver (the Onkyo 520 that comes with the 770 HTiB) via the fiber optics cable, and everything works fine for all channels, HD, non-HD digital, and analog cable. Are you guys saying that things are not this simple with the Mits?

It's DVI only and while you can use a DVI -> HDMI connector, you may get black crush from doing so. There is a color space translation that needs to be done for DVI -> HDMI and there is a bug in many players that causes black crush if you use that type of connection.

I just purchased wd62725 the picture in HDTV is awsome however the SD picture is not quite what i had hoped. I have it conected through S cable is there a better way?

Odd as it may sound, try it connected with a composite cable. Some newer TVs have decent comb filters, but only on composite. With S-video you may be using the comb filter in the source unit. This may or may not be better than the one in the TV. Worth a try.

APK,

1. Try a component or DVI connection (if you source allows). Component is better than S.

2. Try calibrating your set with Avia and play with the brightness a little. I got rid of many artifacts from DirecTV just by dropping the brightness a bit...

Time

Will that component cable carry SD picture, I thought they were only for HD ?

Originally posted by neoikon
DVDs still have horizontal bars. I made sure my DVD player was set in 16:9 mode, which helped some. DVD is in progressive mode as well (which shouldn't matter). I flipped though all the TV display modes (stretch, standard, zoom, etc), but still have the black bars. I tried multiple movies, but no luck. I'm using component cables and it is in 480p mode. Anyone suggest a fix?
Many new movies are in Cinemascope, a wider format than 16:9.

Standard 16:9 calculates to 1.77777, while Cinemascope is 2.35 or larger. 2.35 reverse calculates to about a 21:9 ratio... much wider... so you need to shrink the image down to show the whole picture on a 16:9 screen.

-jb

Update: PC Richards has pushed back the ETA for the WD-52725 in the warehouse until 10/20 (originally it was 10/8).

ARGH.

Originally posted by APK
Will that component cable carry SD picture, I thought they were only for HD ? If you're connected through S-Video, you haven't seen HD yet. S-Video only passes through 480i. You need to use component or HDMI to see 720p. These inputs will also pass through 480i (upconverted).

So what DVD player do we like for this xxx725? I have an RP-91 Panny which is great but not HDMI output. What models are leading the pack that would be good for my 62725?

Time

Originally posted by ttownsend
cjut01 ... Congrats on your purchase!!! Funny, but I bet the next few days will seem to take much longer than the past "months and months". :p

By any chance did you purchase an Extended Warranty from Tweeter? I have an 825 on pre-order, but haven't yet had any warranty discussions with them. If you did, do you recall if bulb-replacement is included?

Also, once you have the 3910 and the 725 working together, please post your results. I'm considering either the 3910, or perhaps the lesser 2910.

Thanks.

- Tom
Hi all,
Yes, the waiting is the hardest part for sure.
Tweeter still does not include bulb replacement. Too bad. They were about my only option here on Long Island (they are in Ct but will deliver) because they have the 30 day return and I too am worried about headaches/rainbows, but believe me I'm really positive about the set and I am not going to psych myself up to see them on purpose-- I am expecting the best! I really had to pay extra for the delivery but I just absolutely can't buy a DLP unit or any TV costing $4k+ and not have any recourse.

On the 3910 front, I went into the retailer in NYC looking to buy the 1910, and the 2910 was not out yet, and I don't know what came over me, I bought the 3910. I read alot in the the DVD forum about the shortcomings of the 1910, and the positives of the 3910. I think I got a really good price (PM me) so I just went for it. I already have my HDMI cable waiting so I'm trying to decide what DVD to play on the maiden voyage. BTW I hooked up the 3910 to my existing Toshiba Home Theater 36" tube set (which I still love) and I have to say, even with S Video and digital audio, the picture and sound were outstanding through my 5.1 receiver -- way better than my old Pioneer.

I'm not a videophile by any means but I sure will let everyone know my experiences with the 3910 and 725.

Originally posted by subwoofer
I thought samsung has an HD-DVD player for $300 or so. It converts DVDs to 720p or 1080i

That player is still a non HD-DVD player. All it does is up convert to either format. It can't play HD-DVD or Blue Ray. Those players cost a lot more. It is a confusing subject. I have people that come in my store and ask the same question.

Thanks Kevin Barduca (A-1)

I have had my 52725 for about a week. If i look real close, I can see little black marks on the screen. These marks do not seem to be a bad mirror on the chip because they are in between the pixels. Is this just something on one of the projection mirrors? Any posts would be appreciated.

Thanks Kevin Barduca (A-1)

Originally posted by cjut01
Hi all,
...
Tweeter still does not include bulb replacement. Too bad. ...

On the 3910 front, I went into the retailer in NYC looking to buy the 1910, and the 2910 was not out yet, and I don't know what came over me, I bought the 3910. I read alot in the the DVD forum about the shortcomings of the 1910, and the positives of the 3910. I think I got a really good price (PM me) so I just went for it. ...

... I sure will let everyone know my experiences with the 3910 and 725.

Yeah, that is too bad on the Tweeter Warranty. It seems that for the 725/825 models, I don't have much choice in my area, and I too want the 30-day return policy, pretty much for the same reasons you do. Yes, I've sat in front of the display set at Tweeter for quite some time, but I've heard the stories of those who absolutley didn't see the rainbows until days after they took delivery of the set.

Don't look back at purchasing the 3910 ... from what I understand, it's a fine piece of equipment that should do you well. After spending my extra bucks on the 825, I probably won't be able to afford a 3910, but I'm still anxious to hear your report once you've had a chance to test it out.

- Tom

Originally posted by Keyser Sose
Has anyone swapped thier WD-62525 for the WD-62725? If so, how much extra did you pay for the swap?

I'm looking to do this, and don't want to get "screwed".

I swapped mine. Check out the PM that I just sent you. I got an incredible deal from Tweeter.

Originally posted by ttownsend
cjut01 ... Congrats on your purchase!!! Funny, but I bet the next few days will seem to take much longer than the past "months and months". :p

By any chance did you purchase an Extended Warranty from Tweeter? I have an 825 on pre-order, but haven't yet had any warranty discussions with them. If you did, do you recall if bulb-replacement is included?

Also, once you have the 3910 and the 725 working together, please post your results. I'm considering either the 3910, or perhaps the lesser 2910.

Thanks.

- Tom

The Tweeter warranty definitely does not include bulb replacement. The salesman that I was working with called the company that does the warranty work and they explained that under no uncertain terms is this covered. I proceded to tell the salesman that bubl replacement is included in the warranties offered by both BB and CC. He acknowledged this and said that the Tweeter warranty will "probably" soon be changed to include bulb replacement as well. If this does happen, he indicated that all valid warranties for this type of television will more than likely be grandfathered. Since the currently warranty does not include bulb replacement, he sold me the five year warranty for the cost of the three year warranty. He said that he would probably get a little heat for doing this but said he would simply say it was an error. You have to love those Tweeter guys and gals.

$100 more for the swap here...

Time

My first post, so be gentle...

I have a 52725 coming shortly and a Dish 921. My current setup (non-HD) uses a standard RCA plug between my Dish receiver and my Marantz AV600, then from the AV600 to the TV. Will these type of plugs be ok when connecting the new Dish 921 to the 52725 via the AV600?

Also, I have an old Sony DVD/CD Jukebox used mainly for DVD's. What quality can I expect from a movie played from this to my 52725?

Thanks

After 7 months of research and much time spent at the PC and AVS forums, gleaning as much knowledge and information as I could (Thanks everyone) my Home theater is done. Well I should never say "done"(: I had my Mits 62725 delivered, It is a great set! Have done a little tweaking but am waiting for my Avia disk to get here before I really get into it. I must say this though, the improvement in the reflective screen is not the 70% I had heard, more like 40% if that. But thankfully my room has little ambient light hitting the screen. I got the extended warranty (Good Guys) but no bulb replacement. Sales manager assured me that by next year these bulbs will be retailing for 50 bucks! Yeah right! But so far am very pleased with my Mts.

My gear
WD 62725 Mts
Directv Tivo HD-250
NAD t-773 AV receiver
Axiom Epic 80s spearkers
SVS sub
Xbox
JVC XV-FA900 DVD player

have a 52725 coming shortly and a Dish 921.

MacWino,

I have almost the same setup with the 921 and the 52725 and am using the DVI from the 921 to the 52725. I have a Krell setup (HTS 7.1 and TAS)and am using a Panny XP30 as a DVD source (component) for now. I picked up this player for fun to check it out and it lives up to its reputation and from the DVD benchmark tests.

I have to say I tried the Krell Showcase DVD, picture was amazing but the processor was slow and the player had too many quirks for a $3500 player. So I returned it and tried the Denon 5900, nice but the Krell picture quality was much better. So I decided to go with a $200 player and check it out. I too have been looking at the 3910 but as I have said before I am really waiting for the HD-DVD players.

But to get back on topic, the $200 XP30 PQ looks very natural on the 52725, so try yours out otherwise there are some new up-converting players coming on the market in the next few weeks/months to try.

I may try a 3910 or 5910 (when it comes out next year) just to see what all the hype is about!

Steve

I've had my 62725 since Friday, and so far so good. Everything I've read about this TV rings true. HD == spectacular, SD == not great, but not that bad IMO....hey, what do you expect?! I had very low expectations about the SD, so I haven't been disappointed. I will say that football in SD is pretty bad...luckily, there's a lot of HD football. Like I said, I was expecting the worst from SD, but it's actually watchable....

I'm looking for a post I'm remember reading where someone gave their tweaks for D* SD. Between this thread, the original Mits DLP thread, and the 525 config thread, it's hard to remember where I read something....

A question about OTA....
I know this largely depends on where you live/antenna etc. and I've got some suggestions from the Dallas OTA thread, but I wanted to ask if anyone has an opionion about the OTA tuner in the 62725 vs. the one in the D* HD Sammy 360 tuner? My problem is getting ABC (i.e. no MNF argh!!). ABC in my area is the only digital broadcast over VHF. Everything I keep trying, I re-scan on the Mits and then the Sammy 360...so far they both can't get what I want. Can anyone say for sure which tuner is better so I don't have to waste my time trying both?

Thanks for all the great info!!!

Got confirmation that my 52725 will be delivered tomorrow. This will replace my 52525 that I bought back in August. I need to disconnect everything from the TV tonight and get ready for the new one. :D :D Even with the few issues that I had with the 525, it was near perfect now... hopefully the 725 will be just as good, if not better...

Originally posted by kbarduca
That player is still a non HD-DVD player. All it does is up convert to either format. It can't play HD-DVD or Blue Ray. Those players cost a lot more. It is a confusing subject. I have people that come in my store and ask the same question.

Thanks Kevin Barduca (A-1)

Well thats the best your going to get right now cause where are you going to buy HD-DVDs? They won't be on the market until 2012 or so. No way will those be released soon and do well. Remember Mini-Disc anyone?

I'm real close (within a week...maybe less) of getting a 52725. My wife and I are looking for furniture and there are so many options, so for now, I am just going to pick up the matching stand. (MB-52525). I happened to be looking at the Mitsu website and saw they had a MB-52825, which is Black instead of Silver. Anyone know if this is available??? With the 52725 mostly black, it would seem like a better choice than the Silver MB-52525. The silver one matches great with the 52525 model....but that damn glare..

Also...anyone know where I can get specs on the the stands.. Need to know if My components will fit.

Thanks
Andy

I have the matching 52" stand and it is meant to go with both the 525 and 725. The bottom of the 725 beneath the black grille is all silver to match the stand. The 825 stand is more of a glossy black finish.

The 52" stand is 15" high and has two shelfs each of which have a 23" wide opening. You can only probably fit one component on each shelf, but I was able to fit a PS2, Xbox, and a Dreamcast on the bottom shelf. You can maybe put a center speaker on the top shelf underneath the TV if you angle it upwards...

Terp,

Got any pictures of your setup?

I bought the Salamander Synergy Triple 20 stand in cherry with black rails and the media drawer in the center/bottom. I can fit my center channel speaker above and tilt it upwards. It has not come in yet.

http://www.salamanderdesigns.com/syn/synergy.jsp?modelbase=sl20

View from the main seat (~12 feet away)
http://home.comcast.net/~nauman76/tv/DSCN1225.JPG

Stand capacity:
http://home.comcast.net/~nauman76/tv/DSCN1240.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~nauman76/tv/DSCN1249.JPG

Thanks for the info.

Hopefully I'll be getting mine this week... I'm hoping all my 'stuff' fits. I did find a website that has a speaker shelf...with adjustable legs. It might work. (Can't post the URL being that I haven't made enough posts. If you go to racks and stands (dot) com and look for tv top shelf you will see a Sanus model. Let me know what you guys think about this.

I'm going to call Comcast today and price out Digital Cable and HD. Also need them to come out and possibly put an amp on my line. I have split the signal 5x and current signal on Old Mitsu 50" looks like crap.

Andy

Originally posted by phillyaj
I'm real close (within a week...maybe less) of getting a 52725. ... I happened to be looking at the Mitsu website and saw they had a MB-52825, which is Black instead of Silver. Anyone know if this is available??? ... Also...anyone know where I can get specs on the the stands.. Need to know if My components will fit.

Thanks
Andy

Hi Andy!

I have both an 825 and the matching base on order. The matching base is supposed to be in sometime this week, while the set itself isn't due in our area until early November (go figure).

I don't have the specs for this stand, but there are a few folks out there now trying to get them, and I'm sure they'll be posted eventually. Meanwhile, a couple things that may interest you.

1. It appears from the photos on the Mits page, that the 825 base has only one shelf, as opposed to the two shelves on the 525/725 base. It also appears that the 825 shelf height is lower than the other model, but that could simply be the way it appears in the photograph. (Dang, we really need those specs!)

2. Tweeter, where I purchased the 825 and base, said that unlike the 525/725 bases, the 825 base (at least for them) is a special order ... which in "Tweeter-speak" means I may incur an extra charge if I try to return it. Not sure if that's the case everywhere though.

- Tom

What are the dimensions on each stand from Mits? I'm looking for a thin stand so that it doesnt stick out too far from the wall. But if I get a Mits DLP, they are slightly thicker in depth

Originally posted by subwoofer
Well thats the best your going to get right now cause where are you going to buy HD-DVDs? They won't be on the market until 2012 or so. No way will those be released soon and do well. Remember Mini-Disc anyone?

Guys: I am very confused with all the talk about the various DVD players. I have a one year old Sony DVP-NC655P progressive scan player. I never considered that I might have to upgrade it for my new 52725 that should be delivered in a week.

There are no HD DVD's out there, so other than connectivity, what's with all the hype? I have to suspect you are all talking about miniscule differences in PQ between the various players...no?

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
I have the matching 52" stand and it is meant to go with both the 525 and 725. The bottom of the 725 beneath the black grille is all silver to match the stand. The 825 stand is more of a glossy black finish.

The 52" stand is 15" high and has two shelfs each of which have a 23" wide opening. You can only probably fit one component on each shelf, but I was able to fit a PS2, Xbox, and a Dreamcast on the bottom shelf. You can maybe put a center speaker on the top shelf underneath the TV if you angle it upwards...

UMD_Terp:

Have you actually seen one of the 725s in the DC area? The stores I've been to have been selling them in advance so they haven't put any out on the floor. Would like an opinion on the difference between the glare/anti-glare screens. I can live without the black fabric across the bottom.

Thanks,
DC

I personally have not seen one yet. The Big Screen Store apparantly should have the 52" on display as of this past weekend. I should get mine tomorrow... I'll let you guys know how it compares to the 525 :)

I have seen the 525 and 725 side by side in a Soundtrack (Ultimate) here in Denver. The models were the 52" and to me the 725 had a better picture. One of the reasons could be because of the anti-glare screen. Apparently there is an inside and outside coating on the screen to help with the glare. There is a definite difference in the depth of the color between the two, with the 725 taking the edge.
My 725 will be delivered Friday. :D

UMD_Terp

I saw the 52725 at the Big Screen Store in Rockville on Friday. It is next to a 52525 and it is easy to tell the difference.

Can you PM me with info about what kind of deal you were able to get? Thanks.

I have had my 62725 4 days now, very happy with it. I have had no problems personally with it but my wife claims the Mits. just shuts it self off for no apparent reason (this has happened to her twice since we have gotten it). She will leave it off until I return home and its starts right up and no problems shutting down while I'm watching. I know the manual says that AC fluctuation will cause this, just how sensitive are these sets? My Samsung direct view HD never had this issue, Should I invest in line power conditioner? I do use a good Monster HTS 850 surge protector. Anyone have this issue yet?

Originally posted by DC_SnDvl
UMD_Terp

I saw the 52725 at the Big Screen Store in Rockville on Friday. It is next to a 52525 and it is easy to tell the difference.

Can you PM me with info about what kind of deal you were able to get? Thanks.

You got PM :)

I have been dealing with their Ellicott City store... they are pretty good guys to deal with on the whole...

Just got my 62725 today. I haven't done any adjustments yet but I have a black mark/smudge on the lover left corner of the screen. It doesn't look like there is any light transmitting to that point. It is not a perfect shape but looks like someone smudged the screen with a permanant marker. Does this sound like a dead mirror?

The store where I purchased the unit offered a replacement unit ( I have to return this one and pickup the new unit) or they will send an outside source repairman. Which would you do? I have an issue with someone tinkering around in a brand new $$$ set.

Anyone else experience this?

Thanks for your input.

The protective screen is re-moveable. Are you certain if the smudge is not either on the inside or outside of the protective screen? Might or might not be this simple.

Originally posted by keithsimp
I have seen the 525 and 725 side by side in a Soundtrack (Ultimate) here in Denver. The models were the 52" and to me the 725 had a better picture. One of the reasons could be because of the anti-glare screen. Apparently there is an inside and outside coating on the screen to help with the glare. There is a definite difference in the depth of the color between the two, with the 725 taking the edge.
My 725 will be delivered Friday. :D

interesting... With all things being equal, I would think that the color on both the 525 and 725 would be nearly the same with maybe the 525 appearing a little more vibrant since the screen on it has no anti glare coating. More light should pass through the 525 screen than the 725 screen. There has been talk of the 725 being calibrated differently to take the screen into account, so that may be what it is...

or maybe the two were just set up differently in the store... :)

Originally posted by Benji
The protective screen is re-moveable. Are you certain if the smudge is not either on the inside or outside of the protective screen? Might or might not be this simple.

Does anyone here have a picture of what the Mits DLP looks like without the protective screen?

Originally posted by subwoofer
Does anyone here have a picture of what the Mits DLP looks like without the protective screen? I don't have a computer/camera set-up, but my opinion is that it looks sort of dull and unfinished w/o the screen. Also the TV image appears deeper (more 3D like) with the screen on. And the Mits logo is on the screen, so that is missing as well. If I could get past the 525 glare, I would have gladly kept this TV, but have opted for the 725.

Thanks Benji, I think the 525 has terrible glare so I wouldn't buy that model for any price that Tweeter would sell it to me.

UMD_Terp,

Love the pictures. I can't believe how great NFL games look. Too bad the scoreboard in the upper right corner isn't all the way in the corner, its moreso in the middle or a 3rd of the way in. Kinda weird, don't ya think?

Also, do you have any more pictures of what your HT setup looks like? I'm trying to get an idea for seating, speaker placement and what kind of windows with ambient light you have at your place. What do the pictures look like without the flash? Probably amazing, and I love how there really isn't that much of a glare on the xx725 even with a light bulb flash

Once again, love the pictures!

Originally posted by radtek
I have had my 62725 4 days now, very happy with it. I have had no problems personally with it but my wife claims the Mits. just shuts it self off for no apparent reason (this has happened to her twice since we have gotten it). She will leave it off until I return home and its starts right up and no problems shutting down while I'm watching. I know the manual says that AC fluctuation will cause this, just how sensitive are these sets? My Samsung direct view HD never had this issue, Should I invest in line power conditioner? I do use a good Monster HTS 850 surge protector. Anyone have this issue yet?


I did have a startup problem twice during the first week I had the 62725. Flashed firmware and have not seen a problem since. Also have a video sync (scrambled video) issue if the TV is powered up 1-2 sec before my A/V receiver. The component video signal is apparently polled by the TV during it's first couple seconds after you hit the power button. If there is no signal or a "bad" signal, you may see a problem. Easily worked around in my case.

Has anyone else experienced this ?

I posted this a week ago:

WD-62725 reset
I'll just post this as my observations since I haven't talked to Mits CR or my local dealer's service dept.

Received my 62725 on Sunday 5pm

Today (Wed) 5pm when I turned it on:

Green light went out after a few seconds, no light on the screen.
A few seconds later, the lamp indicator went solid red.

Did a hard reset 2 times, same results.

On the 3rd reset, proper operation restored.

Additionally, if I load a CF card up with jpg's, sometimes it only sees some of them or none. No apparent pattern to it. Just tried mp3's, and they seem OK so far.

Could the Light Engine be responsible for "rainbows".

Recently swapped out my WD-62525 for the WD-62725.

62525 - NEVER saw a Rainbow.
62725 - Frequently seeing Rainbows.

WTF?!

Folks,

Does anybody know of any store that stocks the WD-52725 in Central NJ? So far have I've only been able to locate one store (Sound City, Denville, NJ), and they are located in North Jersey. Would like to avoid the trek there if possible.

Checked with Sears and BB; both carry the xx525 models and said they wouldn't be carrying the xx725 models.

Thanks in advance,

-Naidu

I am not sure if they have any in stock yet but the Tweeter in Lawrenceville told me they would be getting some in 2nd week of October, but they already had 24 preorders for them.

Well, I just had my 52725 delivered about two hours ago. :D

Delivery guys came in and took out the 525 I had and put the 725 in. The delivery guy saw the cablecard lying there and immediately grabbed a CF card from his pocket and stuck it in the TV while I plugged it in the UPS. I asked him if there was a new firmware upgrade, but he didn't speak english very well, and didn't really know. Upgrade completed and they packed up their stuff and left.

The very first thing I noticed about the 725 was that it seems much more rigid than the 525 I had. On the 525 I could twist the screen from the top causing the rear panel that holds the main mirror to skew the picture. On the 725 I have, it takes more force to twist the set and the mirror moves a little bit and then pops back into place. The speaker grille seems much more sturdy as well. Overall fit and finish is the same as the 525 I had.

I fired up the TV and turned down the contrast from torch mode and adjusted brightness/sharpness/etc... I went into the service menu to bring up the test pattern to check for a skewed picture. Sure enough, the set needed a slight keystone adjustment as well as a vertical adjustment. I broke out the tools and accessed the lock screws and keystone thumb screws. I got it nearly perfect with these adjustments and fine tuned the HPOS and VPOS to get it perfect. My 525 needed the exact same keystone adjustments and I was able to get both sets to near perfect fairly easily. One thing I noticed was that there is noticeably less pincusion on the 725 than there was on the 525 I had. A small amount of pincushion in DLPs is normal and the 525 exhibited that, but this 725 has very little to no pin cushion.

I also noted that the firmware rev is at .03 ... and that under the lamp usage counters I have an extra entry for 35 hours like others here had as well. Total TV usage counter shows 35 hours of use as well. My guess is that they test these sets and lamps for that much time before shipping them out of the factory.

The cablecard from my 525 worked as well without any changes. I was under the impression that I would need to tell my cable company and have this set put into their system but the cablecard I have worked just the same as it did on my 525. Strange to say the least. :confused:

Now what people were probably waiting for... the anti-glare screen. I'd say that there is a definite difference between the 525 and 725 screen. The glare is reduced in the 725 screen, but not eliminated. If you are viewing the screen dead on, the anti glare on the 725 works fairly well. At an angle, the anti-glare functionality is not as good. I would say that if you have a light source behind your viewing spot, the screen will do its job. I had a small amount of glare, but I do have control over lighting so it was never a big issue for me.

I had to go to work so all other things are still disconnected. I did not adjust anything other than the basic video controls and have yet to see how HD looks. I am sure the PQ will be impressive just as it was on the 525.

Cayenne, thanks. I didn't realize we had Tweeter stores in NJ. I'll check with their Lawrenceville store; its the nearest to me in Manalapan, NJ.

Originally posted by Keyser Sose
Could the Light Engine be responsible for "rainbows".

Recently swapped out my WD-62525 for the WD-62725.

62525 - NEVER saw a Rainbow.
62725 - Frequently seeing Rainbows.

WTF?!

:confused: granted that I only viewed my 52725 for maybe 35-40 mintues yet, I saw no rainbows.

Lets see some test pictures Terp :) Thanks!

Tonight... I am at work right now... :)

UMD_Terp

Congrads on your new set. The rigidity of the 725 is probably a result of the tilt problems seen in the 525's. Mitsubishi may have determined that the flimsiness of the 525 set caused the light engine to shift during transport and beefed up the chassis in the 725 to prevent this from happening.

It's also interesting that the CC worked without having to call the cable company. I was led to believe otherwise.

Well, Mitsubishi may have solved the main projection mirror shifting, but they still have not figured out how to prevent the keystone from changing. Either that, or they don't adjust it very carefully after manufacturing. This set required the same exact keystone fix as my 525. Lucky for me, that is all both required to get them perfect. It's good I didn't have to crack open the rear and get at the light engine rotational adjustment.

I think my cable co. doesn't have their cablecard system setup properly. I think if it were set up properly, they would need my TVs information to authorize it in their system. I'll hook up my DVCR tonight and see if I can record from the cablecard. I do have the .03 software that I did not have with the 525... lets see if that does anything for me :)

How can a few of you already have the xx725 but it is nearly impossible to find on the internet to buy from?

Ebay has 2 retailers selling at low prices. Epinions.com also has retailers selling when you search on the model #.

I was too scared to go with an e-tailer but your luck might be just fine.

Time

I would be weary of buying a $4k Mitsubishi TV online. With electronics that cost less than $1k, I think you can take the chance, but if something were to go wrong with the TV, Mitsubishi would probably give you trouble with getting things fixed under warranty. Mitsubishi has a tight dealer network and they only want to sell through authorized retailers... gives them more price control.

It's also interesting that the CC worked without having to call the cable company. I was led to believe otherwise.

CC from my old set went into the new set. Did a reset, and ALL channels came in fine. No contact with ComCast was necessary.

Originally posted by Keyser Sose
Could the Light Engine be responsible for "rainbows".

Recently swapped out my WD-62525 for the WD-62725.

62525 - NEVER saw a Rainbow.
62725 - Frequently seeing Rainbows.

WTF?!

Were you watching EXACTLY the same source material on the two units ?

For me, I only see rainbows when there is a very large luminance step across the screen. For instance, a picture of a crescent moon on a black sky, that'll do it every time. Of course, you still have to shift your eyes to get it.

I think some people see rainbows more often because they have REM's even when they're awake. I tend to focus on one thing at a time when viewing.

Originally posted by Keyser Sose
CC from my old set went into the new set. Did a reset, and ALL channels came in fine. No contact with ComCast was necessary.


interesting....

have you checked to see if you have a skew issue with the screen like you did with the 525? I had the same thing... maybe to a lesser extent on this one, but nevertheless, it was fixed easily.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
I fired up the TV and turned down the contrast from torch mode and adjusted brightness/sharpness/etc... I went into the service menu to bring up the test pattern to check for a skewed picture. Sure enough, the set needed a slight keystone adjustment as well as a vertical adjustment. I broke out the tools and accessed the lock screws and keystone thumb screws. I got it nearly perfect with these adjustments and fine tuned the HPOS and VPOS to get it perfect. My 525 needed the exact same keystone adjustments and I was able to get both sets to near perfect fairly easily. One thing I noticed was that there is noticeably less pincusion on the 725 than there was on the 525 I had. A small amount of pincushion in DLPs is normal and the 525 exhibited that, but this 725 has very little to no pin cushion.


Can you point me to some detailed instructions on how to test and perform the adjustments you did? Or, could you give instructions yourself? When you say you "broke ou the tools", it makes me nervous and I don't want to mess up my TV, so I want to make sure I do things correctly. :)

Thanks!

This is the thread I am referencing:

http://avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=439889&perpage=40&pagenumber=4

The tools you will need consist of a phillips head screw driver, 10mm wrench, and an allen wrench.

First, bring up the service menu by accessing the TV Menu and keying in 2 - 4 - 5 - 7 in the remote. You should see the contrast change and numbers/letters come up. Press the AUDIO key on the remote until you see "fmt" show up and HPOS as a menu item. Then press the REW/REV button on the remote to access the test pattern. Check to see if the lines are tiltled/skewed. You should be able to see the green line on all sides and a hint of the white line as well. The red line should not be prominent on any side. If you are satisfied with the way things look, then press HOME and readjust the contrast back to what it was and you are done. If not, follow on....

You need to remove the speaker grille and note the access panel that states "NO USER SERVICEABLE PARTS/WARNING". This panel is to the right of the lamp cover panel. There are four screws holding that panel in. Remove the panel with the screwdriver and you will see two brass lock screws and two thumbscrews. Loosen the brass screws a little bit with your 10mm wrench. Then use the allen wrench on the two thumbscrews to adjust the vertical and horizontal keystone. Don't worry about the overall horizontal/vertical positioning of the pattern since that can be adjusted in the service menu later. Be gentle with the adjustments and go slow. A small movement of the screws causes a drastic shift in the picture. Once you have squared the image to your satisfaction, use the UP/DOWN adjustment on the remote to center the image horizontally. Press the VIDEO key to access the VPOS menu and center the image vertically in the same manner. Once you are satisfied, press ENTER and watch the numbers turn red. After they turn back to white, press HOME and readjust your contrast settings. If you press HOME before pressing ENTER, any changes you make to the VPOS and HPOS will be discarded.

One note of WARNING: DO NOT SET VPOS/HPOS TO 0 and PRESS ENTER. YOU WILL LOSE THE IMAGE AND BE UNABLE TO SEE ANY MENUS.

UMD_Terp,

Thank you so much! Hopefully you won't see me posting tomorrow how I broke my TV. ;)

Originally posted by neoikon
UMD_Terp,

Thank you so much! Hopefully you won't see me posting tomorrow how I broke my TV. ;)

I assume no responsibility for anyone breaking their TV... hehehe... standard disclaimer... :) Trust me tho... you will be fine... it's a fairly easy adjustment.

Service tech just left. What I thought was a failed mirror wasn't. When he took the front screen off, we found a big piece of dirt that most probably had been left there during manufacturing on the big mirror in the back of the set. After cleaning the mirror of the dirty and some other smudges, it works perfectly.
The tech commented that this was one of the easier sets to service. He said in most others sets you have to replace the whole top. He accessed the insides by removing a panel on the bottom behind the grill and then removed the screen by removing all the screws around the top in the back and then severeal underneath the screen in the front.

i'll be getting this set as soon as my furniture arrives. i, too, opted for the Salamander Triple. however, i have not read much about this TV's scaler. how good is it? as good or better than the Samsung's?
also, for UMD, is the adjustment to HPOS and VPOS the same as correcting overscan? thanks.

The deinterlacer and scaler in the TV is very good from my experiences. I have a POS 480i Sharp DVD player that I hooked up to my 525 and even it looked amazing.

The HPOS and VPOS settings do nothing for overscan. They are simply for centering the picture vertically and horizontally on the screen. The lines on the test patterns indicate the amount of overscan present, but no one knows yet how to adjust for it.

Went to pick up my WD-62725 today and found out it hadn't even shipped yet from their distributor. It was supposed to ship on 30 OCT. I guess I should have called first, but then again, there's no such thing as a wasted trip to the AV store! Got to see a WD-62525 with the glare screen removed, as well as the Denon DVD-3910. Unfortuneately they weren't connected together through HDMI.

The wait goes on.

Originally posted by HDSapper
Went to pick up my WD-62725 today and found out it hadn't even shipped yet from their distributor. It was supposed to ship on 30 OCT. Good luck, you still have 25 days left!

Yeah, you caught me. I meant to type "30 SEP", but I'm all mixed up lately. I sure hope it doesn't ship at the end of OCT!!

Originally posted by HDSapper
Yeah, you caught me. I meant to type "30 SEP", but I'm all mixed up lately. I sure hope it doesn't ship at the end of OCT!! I hope you have better luck than your "Braves" are having right now!

Well, my replacement 725 comes on Friday so I am keeping my fingers crossed that I am not making a mistake here by replacing it trying to fix the HDMI connector. Oh well.... Otherwise I now have 304 flawless hours on it.

All these dirty mirrors, make me wonder as this set has a filter that is supposed to help keep dust out. I cant believe there are this many dirty mirror problems on a set thats weeks old.

Does anyone else think thats strange, I could see after a year maybe, but weeks?

Originally posted by scpanel

All these dirty mirrors, make me wonder as this set has a filter that is supposed to help keep dust out. I cant believe there are this many dirty mirror problems on a set thats weeks old.



I don't hink it's a filter. I noticed the problem on my 52725 just 2 days after it was delivered. It most probalbly was there from day 1. I think it's more a manufacturing problem. At least it's easily fixed.

My 62725 is sitting here still packed for the last 2 days as I waited for my handyman to finish my entertainment wall unit for the tv. The stain is drying and the tv goes in tomorrow!!!

Can't remember the last time I was this excited about anything. Nice thing is I feel like an expert already on what to expect/tweak since I have lived on this board for the last 3 weeks while I waited for it to be delivered.

TIme

Originally posted by time4akshun
...as I waited for my handyman to finish my entertainment wall unit for the tv. The stain is drying and the tv goes in tomorrow!!!


TIme

Been lurking here for some time and after several trips to the local retailers I have decided to go with the 62725 as well. I will also be having an entertainment center custom built for this unit. I putting together some rough sketches for the design and I am still looking for ideas. Please post pics when you can.

Thanks!

Well, same flaky behavior when trying to record from my cablecard -> DVCR. I am thinking that this is more my cable company's fault than anything else now. On some of my digital stations, the CCI is set to "11" which means COPY NEVER, if I recall correctly. On some it is set to "00"... none of the channels record to the DVCR. I think the flags are all screwed up in their system.

deleted.

Well finally took the plunge after over a year of waiting. My 52725 will be delivered tomorrow.

Now to just place the order with onecall for the HDMI upconverting Panny DVD player, and order the HD-Tivo!!!

Congrats Cayenne!

I too want to be able to type the same thing on this forum but I'm having trouble convincing myself that a 46 or 50 or 52 inch tv is what I need. Also, a tv of that size might look too big in my place since I'd be sitting 7 to 10 feet away from it. Also when you add it all up, this is going to be about a $4500 to $5000 spending spree. I need about $4000 on the tv, $150 for the stand, $300 for a new dvd player, $150 or so for DVI cables, and some extra for HD-tivo or an HD receiver.

Help me obi-wan kenobi, you're my only hope.

Could someone clarify an item that came up several days ago, regarding the audio from cable channels: Can one not simply connect the cable STB to the AV receiver with a digital audio (optical) cable, and won't that do the audio for all tv channesl (HD, SD both analog and digital)?

Thanks!

Miller,

That is correct. It will do all the audio for the channels on the box.

Time

If you have analog stations on your cable box, I'm not sure they will come in on the optical connection. You may have to connect the red/white analog cables for this.