WD-62725 owner here, no problems for 3 1/2 years (replaced bulb 15 months ago) but now have the dreaded "BGLOD".

I was relieved to find that I did, in fact, get the 5 year warranty (It's a 3rd party via Tweeter called "The Warranty Group"). We are waiting for the call to set up the first service appointment.

Does anyone have experience with these guys? I know I may be in for a long ride, and my hope is that they will do the math and get me a buy-out sooner rather than later. I'd hate to have the same experience as many folks here, and I wonder if different warranty companies behave differently (i.e. Mack vs these guys).

I have boned up on all the issues with the caps, modules, chassis, etc. so I hope the technician will give me reasonable feedback.

I will give follow-up as I get it so that others can benefit if possible. Now do I stick my 26" Sharp Aquos in the den and watch it with binoculars for the next 3 months? I guess there are worse problems in life (like no warranty!), but if this screws with the start of the football season or the Red Sox in the WS :D I am going to be pissed!

Obviously a new user here...but I hope I can receive some help.

Had a service call (unit is now 3-4 yrs old) for horizontal, snow-like lines, and picture flickering (bottom half more than top half). Unit is under extended warranty. Technician said this was electrical interference. I cannot believe this, as nothing has changed, and it just started.

Any thoughts?

Obviously a new user here...but I hope I can receive some help.

Had a service call (unit is now 3-4 yrs old) for horizontal, snow-like lines, and picture flickering (bottom half more than top half). Unit is under extended warranty. Technician said this was electrical interference. I cannot believe this, as nothing has changed, and it just started.

Any thoughts?

Most likely it is NOT any type of interference. I used many steps to rule this out on my set i.e. a cheater plug, extension cord to an outlet on different breakers, removing all antenna and satellite-fed equipment from the loop, etc. all with no visible improvement.

After 6 months of trying everything including replacing whatever capacitors I felt I had the ability to replace I finally purchased a 67" Sammy this morning. She will be here next week, and the Mits will hit CL.

Good luck to you, and maybe it is interference. I'd stretch an extension cord to an outlet that shares a breaker with little - or nothing else. I have a 15A breaker for some outdoor outlets that have nothing plugged into them this time of the year, so I chose that outlet. Secondly, unplug every interconnect that you have going into /out of that TV. This eliminates issues like a ground loop caused by cable/antenna/satellite. plug only a DVD player and the TV into the extension cord, and see what you get. If it reacts the same, you can be fairly certain that it is not ground loop interference. Power down any ceiling fans nearby, but that should not be an issue since you are bypassing the room's breaker.

:D

I bought my 52--- in nov. of 04 changed the bulb once. it's just like it was the first day. My only problem is I forgot the code to set on the remote to tweek the picture. If anyones knows it please post. Thanks. After reading this thread I feel blessed

I bought my 52--- in nov. of 04 changed the bulb once. it's just like it was the first day. My only problem is I forgot the code to set on the remote to tweek the picture. If anyones knows it please post. Thanks. After reading this thread I feel blessed
Good for you, hope it stays that way, FYI I bought my 62xxx in OCT of 2004, so you also may have some issues down the road- at least you'll know all about them!

I bought my 52--- in nov. of 04 changed the bulb once. it's just like it was the first day. My only problem is I forgot the code to set on the remote to tweek the picture. If anyones knows it please post. Thanks. After reading this thread I feel blessed

Press the TV MENU button, then key in the remote 2 - 4 - 5 - 7. I wish you continued good luck.

I bought my 52--- in nov. of 04 changed the bulb once. it's just like it was the first day. My only problem is I forgot the code to set on the remote to tweek the picture. If anyones knows it please post. Thanks. After reading this thread I feel blessed

I'm thinking your TV doesn't get the workout that many of ours did. Only changing one bulb in three years, it doesn't seem like it has been watched that much.

In three years, I replaced two bulbs. I'd be willing to bet you'll start to see some of the issues many of us have had within the next year.

I'd say my TV was on from 5-8 hours a day on average.

Only one bulb here. It never worked again after it went. The set self descructed a few weeks before it reasched 3 years old. I had right at 4000 hours

I checked in the service menu it says I have watched the tv for 3192 hours. I'm retired I watch alot of tv or at least my wife does.hopefully it keeps on ticking

Any TV, regardless of the display technology, if you put hours on it will go bad eventually. I have the WD-62525 since 8/6/04 and I put about 2500 hours a year on it. Its always on with news in the morning, with kid shows in the afternoon, then again news and finally evening programming and DVDs.

My WD-62525 has been connected to a UPS from day one and I clean the fan filters and mirror assemblies. The bulb was changed once 2 years ago and needs another change soon as its now getting dim. Last year the light engine was replaced and now I have wavy lines. I won't repair this set and I'll sell it for a couple of hundred dollars.

Whatever TV anyone decides to get be it DLP, Pioneer Elite KURO plasma, LCD, the life is going to be 10,000-12,000 hours. Come this August, I will replace it with 67" Sammy LED HL67A750 DLP, but I want to keep the cost about $2000. This way at the end of 4 or 5 years, I can throw it in the trash without too much regret.

Having a family of 5 and going to the movies once is a $35 cost. If we watch 12 movies a year, it will cost about $420. This is about the cost I want my TV for per year.

WD-62725 owner here, no problems for 3 1/2 years (replaced bulb 15 months ago) but now have the dreaded "BGLOD".

I was relieved to find that I did, in fact, get the 5 year warranty (It's a 3rd party via Tweeter called "The Warranty Group"). We are waiting for the call to set up the first service appointment.

Does anyone have experience with these guys? I know I may be in for a long ride, and my hope is that they will do the math and get me a buy-out sooner rather than later. I'd hate to have the same experience as many folks here, and I wonder if different warranty companies behave differently (i.e. Mack vs these guys).

I have boned up on all the issues with the caps, modules, chassis, etc. so I hope the technician will give me reasonable feedback.

I will give follow-up as I get it so that others can benefit if possible. Now do I stick my 26" Sharp Aquos in the den and watch it with binoculars for the next 3 months? I guess there are worse problems in life (like no warranty!), but if this screws with the start of the football season or the Red Sox in the WS :D I am going to be pissed!

Update #1: Worked from home to meet with the repair guys. They are evidently a Mits. authorized service provider, they were recommended by the Warranty Group. I knew I was in trouble when they marched in with a replacement bulb. OK, fine, try the bulb, but they were not at all clued in on the Mits or it's errors. It was a father and son, and evidently they knew NOTHING about the issue, and all they did was try to replace the blub and then they essentially gave up and called their office. I insisted on speaking to the service manager (or whomever they were talking to), I explained my understanding of the issue, what others were seeing, and I asked them if they could pull the chassis and look at the boards, etc. She said they would need to bring it into the shop, they "didn't have room for it today" (i.e. on their bench) but they are authorized, they have all the service information, blah, blah, but I suspect this will be their first ever BGLOD fix.

To the other victims out there-- is this usual, i.e. to suffer through uninformed service technicians, and, to pull the set out completely, or have you had successful visits in your home (and, say, worst case, they pull the chassis, leave your set, etc.)

Looking at these guys, I honestly believe once the set goes out the door, I will never see it again. Which may eventually be a good thing since it's a warranty unit-- but if by some miracle it does come back, I'm thinking it will be a cold day in hell until it works reliably.

I know I can call the Warranty Company and request another service center, but should I be quizzing the service center to see what experience they have with this issue? Should I just say goodbye to the set and hope for the best?

I have the BGLOD on my WD-52525, which can be reset after an extended power off, and the set fails usually within an hour of reset. The set is under extended warranty. The technician ordered a replacement for both the FMT and DM boards (as expected). I just got word that the parts from Mitsubishi are on backorder until late August, and the parts were ordered early July. The shop is now going to the GE Warranty to see if I can get a replacement set. I'm hoping that given the known issues with this series, that I will get met at least half way, and get something I can use for a new, non-Mitsu LCD.

Replaced the bulb in a 52825 with wavey line issue in all but OTA and HDMI input. Power up and red bulb light comes on and no picture. Reseat the lamp a couple times and same thing. Put original lamp back in which was working at time of removal and get same red light.
Is there something that can come loose in back of the lamp socket when replacing?
I also had the screen off to clean mirror (which was filthy). Anything in there that could cause it?

yes, there have been several reports of the lamps rear power socket connector coming loose so when you push the lamp back in it will not connect. Then owners having to go in through the rear of the set to reseat the connector and push the lamp module back into to seat it properly into the power connection socket.

That is exactly the problem I had. Small "tangs" on the clip let loose and wouldn't allow contact.

Hello,

Just seeing if anyone has had or seen this problem before, after clicking the power button, the tv just switches to a sollid red status light. When pushing device and menu buttons the error code is 44 which is for a DVI cable problem? Which board would this relate to?

Thanks alot

I bought my wd52525 off ebay back in feb 2008, havent had any of your problems yet. But I did run into an unfortunate event that I need a little help with. My tv was perfect until one day a storm came in. I use my pc port on the back of the tv and it is connected with my desktop pc and audio too. The tv was off but the computer was on. Sometime during the storm I think surge happened, but its strange, the computer monitor works perfect, and I tested all of the cables i use. Which is the splitter and the vga cables one to tv and one to pc monitor. They work fine with the pc. When I tried to use the pc device on the tv I got a horizontally disfigured picture of my computer screen on the tv and the screen on the computer would flip vertically like crazy. If I unhooked from the tv the monitor would go back to its perfect lcd screen. Then I tried it again and now the tv will not recognize that i am using the pc on it, it gives me a ble screen and a saying of no signal input and it will shut down in one minute, meanwhile if its hooked up to the tv the pc screen flips until unhooked. Now if I switch to a different input such as Wii, DTV or DVD player it is perfect picture and sound. So the only problem is with the pc part, no sound no picture just blue screen. Did it just burn out some caps or did it fry my pc board? Thanks to any replies.

Can some post pages from the service manual on how to get teh DM Board, Power... etc out of my WD-62725. I want to replace the caps that im sure are blown.

Regards,
Eric

Quick question about the wavy line issue:

Do they typically run from the upper left corner of the screen to the lower right?

I am seeing lines like this on 480i sources over component (on my DVD player for instance). If I switch the DVD player to progressive scan mode, the lines go away for the most part.

I can see them on my Tivo S3 also, when it it set to 480i output resolution (on a different input). The thing is I don't normally watch anything in 480i.

I would like to get BB to fix the problem, but I am afraid they will just tell me to watch in 480p or higher resolution.

Do you think I have a valid case to get them out to look at the TV while I still have a few weeks left on my warranty?

Quick question about the wavy line issue:

Do they typically run from the upper left corner of the screen to the lower right?

I am seeing lines like this on 480i sources over component (on my DVD player for instance). If I switch the DVD player to progressive scan mode, the lines go away for the most part.

I can see them on my Tivo S3 also, when it it set to 480i output resolution (on a different input). The thing is I don't normally watch anything in 480i.

I would like to get BB to fix the problem, but I am afraid they will just tell me to watch in 480p or higher resolution.

Do you think I have a valid case to get them out to look at the TV while I still have a few weeks left on my warranty?

I don't think there is any particular threshold below which they can refuse a visit for your TV. Worst case, they come, if they blow you off this close to the end of the warranty, you have a case if things get worse. Best case maybe they can address it. Since I have the BGLOD issue my problem is really unrelated but just my 2c based upon gearing up for a battle with the Warranty Co. I said goodbye to my set today. It was hauled away with a cheery "It will be fixed in 2 weeks, give us a call" to my wife. Interesting in that they have not even looked inside. But by george, it will be fixed.

New update

The total is $1300 + and Mits will pay half.

I guess we are going to go ahead and get it fixed.

This is LE and DM board. The Caps are already swapped and the bulb is new.

If this does not work I am not sure what will happen but I hate to send it to the dump.

$650 would go a long way toward a new flat screen LCD or plasma TV.

I know but I am already in for caps, new bulb and Diag fee.

It was close to going to the dump.

I gave up on it when it died in November and got the Sony 3000.

Looks like my 2 yer old gets a big DLP :rolleyes:

Has anyone had the problem of after a couple of hours on the picture starts to jump up in the blink of an eye and progressively gets to jump more often like from one per minute to one every second. Teh picture is perfect, but this jump or blink is very annoying. It only happens after watching for a few hours and after turning off for a while it repeats the next timne the set is turned on, that is it always takes a few hours before the problem happens.
Thanks

Well, after reading all the messages, I thought I would chime in. I bought my 52725 in '04 and back in July '07 I noticed wavy lines when I watched any analog input. I called my warranty company, Warrantech, and they called a repair shop in my area. He came out the first time, and said I needed a new chassis and he would order one. The next time he came out, he said Mitsu required him to check the caps first, so he did that. He found nothing unusual, ordered chassis #1 and I waited. He came and installed the new one (refurbished, according to the forum), but the tv wouldn't even come on. He took it out, put the old one back in and told me he would order another one. He finally came out again this week and put in chassis #2, but the wavy lines are still there and now I have flickering pixels. I also noticed my geometry is way off, the center of the screen is an inch too low. So, now I am waiting for the service guy to come out again to probably order another chassis. I don't know how much longer I can take this. I called Warrantech and explained to them how long it has been, only 7 months, and I still see no result, in fact, the problem is now worse. To make matters worse, I live in Iowa and the tech can only come out on Thursdays. Arghhhh! Well, I will keep you all updated, to say the least.

Well, I wanted to update from my previous post. Needless to say, the television is still not repaired. A few months ago, the tech came to my house and he was told by Mitsu to replace the DVI cable (the one inside the tv). I knew that would not work, since it doesn't happen when using the digital inputs. Soon after I never heard from the repairman again, so I called him and he told me he had no clue how to fix the set. I had to call the warranty company to complain, so they called the repair shop to do another repair. He called a week or so ago and told me Mitsu had a paper out that some of the diodes are bad and he needed to replace them, but he needed to pick up the set. So, since last Tuesday they have the set and are supposedly repairing it, but I am quite skeptical, since I don't think they have a clue how to repair it. The warranty company will not let me go to another shop because the shop has not admitted defeat. So, we are at a year since all this started and the set is not any better.

Tune in next time.

Update #2: I first posted about my BGLOD issue (Mits 62725) back 3 weeks ago, I took the repair guys a week from the initial visit to actually pick it up, and now it's been with them a week. They said "it's on their bench and they are working on it" but could give me no other information. As I said in my prior post, I don't think I will ever see it again, because even though these guys do warranty service and are Mits. authorized, they've never seen this problem and they can't even have a basic conversation with me. I am going to call for an update on Monday (their suggestion) and if I get no more than "we're working on it", I'm going to blow my capacitors! I'm going to try to talk to someone that is actually working on the set and see what they have found out.

I know that the warranty company's job is to fix the set as cheaply as possible, and minimize their outlay. But I'm sure they're getting charged by the hour by the repair shop; that can't be cheap, neither will the replacement parts. At what point can I call the warranty company and talk to them about the situation? Is 2 weeks with no feedback (i.e. nature of problem, parts on order, etc) too soon? How long have people waited to discuss buyout or replacement? Months of frustration?

Update #2: I first posted about my BGLOD issue (Mits 62725) back 3 weeks ago, it took the repair guys a week from the initial visit to actually pick it up, and now it's been with them a week. They said "it's on their bench and they are working on it" but could give me no other information. As I said in my prior post, I don't think I will ever see it again, because even though these guys do warranty service and are Mits. authorized, they've never seen this problem and they can't even have a basic conversation with me. I am going to call for an update on Monday (their suggestion) and if I get no more than "we're working on it", I'm going to blow my capacitors! I'm going to try to talk to someone that is actually working on the set and see what they have found out.

I know that the warranty company's job is to fix the set as cheaply as possible, and minimize their outlay. But I'm sure they're getting charged by the hour by the repair shop; that can't be cheap, neither will the replacement parts. At what point can I call the warranty company and talk to them about the situation? Is 2 weeks with no feedback (i.e. nature of problem, parts on order, etc) too soon? How long have people waited to discuss buyout or replacement? Months of frustration?

I avoid these extended warranties just for this reason (both expense and frustration). If the component is going to go bad, it usually does within the included warranty. If feel for your pain, but I just prefer to take the chance on not getting the warranty (probably the majority as well).

ok avs crash everything lost between 8/1-8/11. if needed plese repost all your help/problems with the mits dlp.......

My WD52525 has been turning itself off lately while I am watching tv. When I turn back on, it asks if I replaced the bulb. A couple of times I even had to unplug it and plug back in for it to work. Any one else experience these issues? I have had some caps already replaced around the first of the year. This TV is highly disappointed because I also have the same problems as most people here. Wavy lines on any input but HDMI, replaced caps, etc.

5-12 total failure
8-12 "still in the shop, haven't heard anything, but hey you're in front of the 10 other chassis we sent in after yours"
:mad:

5-12 total failure
8-12 "still in the shop, haven't heard anything, but hey you're in front of the 10 other chassis we sent in after yours"
:mad:
So you are on the "waiting for chassis rebuild queue as well"!

My chassis was sent in last week. The shop seemed to think that Mits was going to turn it around in 2-3 weeks. At what point did your chassis get sent to Mits-- do you know? I'm not sure where these chassis are being sent to be rebuilt- Irvine, Ca? But they must have a friggin' factory floor covered with them. Or it's just one guy with a mountain of chassis sitting next to his lab bench.

So you are on the "waiting for chassis rebuild queue as well"!

My chassis was sent in last week. The shop seemed to think that Mits was going to turn it around in 2-3 weeks. At what point did your chassis get sent to Mits-- do you know? I'm not sure where these chassis are being sent to be rebuilt- Irvine, Ca? But they must have a friggin' factory floor covered with them. Or it's just one guy with a mountain of chassis sitting next to his lab bench.

As an aside, even my wife is now starting to say "gee if we had a place to put the old one when it comes back from the repair shop, we could get a new set right now..." I am throwing out some strategic comments about waiting to see some of the new sets that will be coming out soon, etc. I wish I could get a buyout (still under warrany) and take the $$ and put it towards a new set, but I have to think that if Mits is actually rebuilding every chassis that gets sent to them, they will do whatever it takes to send it back fixed. So based on their current tactics, they probably can deliver a chassis that will work and I presume keep working (if they do some proactive surgery for what might not be an issue currently but is an expected problem). Maybe I am giving them more credit for common sense than they deserve, though.

My WD62525, still in extended warranty period, was repaired after a 6-week wait with a chassis replacement, probably a rebuilt one. In the meantime, I had purchased a 52RV530 Toshiba LCD with an awesome picture. Mounted it on the wall and hooked it up to my DirecTV DVR and antenna. Couldn't be happier. When the repair guy called to say the Mits was ready, I had it delivered to my daughter's house. I checked it out, and the picture looked good. My daughter is happy, and so am I. The Mits still has a year's worth of warranty time, so the warranty company, after expending $1400+ (Two lamps @250 and a chassis @ 995), will still be on the hook. The warranty company will be tapped for another lamp just before the warranty expires, and still on the hook for possible further repairs, so they will be wishing they had just totalled it for $1200 as I originally requested. The Tosh was much less than half what I paid for the Mits, and naturally with improving technology, a far better picture. I feel for all who did not have extended warranty on these sets, as they seem to self-destruct at about 3-5 years old.

So you are on the "waiting for chassis rebuild queue as well"!

My chassis was sent in last week. The shop seemed to think that Mits was going to turn it around in 2-3 weeks. At what point did your chassis get sent to Mits-- do you know? I'm not sure where these chassis are being sent to be rebuilt- Irvine, Ca? But they must have a friggin' factory floor covered with them. Or it's just one guy with a mountain of chassis sitting next to his lab bench.
Mine is in Atlanta (so I'm told)
Labor day weekend is the time. I bought a 50" plasma last year for 899 delivered from a local big box.
I will get the sammy LED this year unless someone stops me, and my mitsu****** will go into my AV business inventory until it messes up again, and then, it will be target practice.

Well, after about six weeks of waiting, Mitsubishi told the local repair company to pull the FMT board for return, but the tech noted the bulging capacitors on the DM board, and he pulled that too. So instead of a chassis rebuild, I'll get the board repair instead, and warranty company crossing fingers that that will do the trick. I've been able to watch the set for a couple of hours only by powering it down overnight to reset the BGLOD, but now its looking at least two weeks (probably more) before I get HDTV back. Anyone else just get the two board repair only?

The inputs on my 52525 went out, i just have a blue screen and the menus are messed up. I have read up about all the capacitor problems. can someone tell me where i can get more info about replacing them.

also, there sometimes is a black screen with while dots(like the night sky, with stars)

any help is appreciated.

socalheli@hotmail.com

Mine is in Atlanta (so I'm told)
Labor day weekend is the time. I bought a 50" plasma last year for 899 delivered from a local big box.
I will get the sammy LED this year unless someone stops me, and my mitsu****** will go into my AV business inventory until it messes up again, and then, it will be target practice. Update #n : 45 elapsed days. The repair shop is now saying that Mits is quoting 4-6 weeks to turn around chassis rebuilds. I am not sure if this is consistent with what you heard. It will be interesting if they hit your Labor Day estimate.

Another month will put me into football season and close to baseball playoffs. I have pretty much given up on this-- I am shooting for the new 65" Panny Plasma that will be shipping by the end of the month. I would have actually looked at the LaserVue but there is no launch date and notional pricing thoeries have them actually at or above plasmas (which I find crazy). Plus I may be able to get my wife to agree to the new set, but she might balk at spending any more money with Mits, especially on new technology. And she would be right.

If I do get the Mits back I will need to find a home for it. Doubtful I can sell, but it will have one year left on the warranty. Any takers? Please-- not all at once! :cool:

talked to tv guy today, and he said he got his first chassis back, which was sent in 2 weeks before mine. He says that Mitsu says 7 more days. then, I would add shipping, holiday, and reinstallation which will add up to probably another 3 weeks plus.

We'll see what's on sale next week.

Just an update if any here followed my saga. I eventually had the whole chassis sent to mits and had it rebuilt and sent back. Through all the repairs I didn't have a TV for 3 months. But when it came back, it was like my TV was new again, picture quality wise. It's been flawless since the end of march.

And now today I unplugged it so I could move some of the plugs around in my ent center (got that logitech rechargeable keyboard), plug the mits back in and blinking light of death.

Guess it's a call to Warrantech again. What fun that is. I hope they just give me a new set finally. I know they've spent about $3k in repairs so far.

You would think after the chassis was sent back to mitsubishi, they would have upgraded the chassis for all problems, guess not.

This is easily the worst product I have ever purchased quality wise, I am just glad I bought the warranty.

I hate to say it, but this has been my worst fear. Mitsubishi should know by now that there are hundreds of caps in these sets that will be failing and just replacing the ones causing the immediate problem will not be a reliable fix. The only way to repair them reliably IME, is to replace every electrolytic cap in the set, which will number in the hundreds.

The one DM that I bothered to remove ALL of the caps from and test had virtually all of them test bad or at best marginal. Only a couple tested good. That includes ALL of them. both radial and surface mount. There is little reason to expect that the other boards are any better. When discussing this with them they just don't seem to want to bother with the information.

I hate to say it, but this has been my worst fear. Mitsubishi should know by now that there are hundreds of caps in these sets that will be failing and just replacing the ones causing the immediate problem will not be a reliable fix. The only way to repair them reliably IME, is to replace every electrolytic cap in the set, which will number in the hundreds.

The one DM that I bothered to remove ALL of the caps from and test had virtually all of them test bad or at best marginal. Only a couple tested good. That includes ALL of them. both radial and surface mount. There is little reason to expect that the other boards are any better. When discussing this with them they just don't seem to want to bother with the information.Mine as well. When it gets back, how long will it work? I have another 13 months on the warranty, but if the set's going to disappear for 3 months, what's the point? Mine is going to one of my sons, I think.

Well I hate to be posting here but I have the dreaded blinking timer light on my 4 year old WD-52525. Unfortunately for me this is the second time this has happend the first time it happend under warrenty they replaced 5 caps. Now it's happening again but I'm no longer under warrenty. Can someone be gracious enough to send the pdf manual which describes how to replace the caps. Hopefully it's just the caps and not the MB or anything else. Please email pdf to aoe_king@hotmail.com

Thanks inadvance.

Well I hate to be posting here but I have the dreaded blinking timer light on my 4 year old WD-52525. Unfortunately for me this is the second time this has happend the first time it happend under warrenty they replaced 5 caps. Now it's happening again but I'm no longer under warrenty. Can someone be gracious enough to send the pdf manual which describes how to replace the caps. Hopefully it's just the caps and not the MB or anything else. Please email pdf to aoe_king@hotmail.com

Thanks inadvance.

I just sent it to you. Hope it helps you out.
Daniel

Our Mits 62525 came back from the Repairman about 3 months ago... Has been working fine since then, but repairman said that the company will probably NOT be offering me an extention of the Service Warranty when the 4 year plan runs out in October...

So what I'm trying to do is print out any information that would help me in the future, when the 'stock' caps dry out again.... I did get info that no 'revised' units were used, just 'the same values and voltage ratings as before....

Has anyone been able to come up with any Tech Bulletins, Troubleshooting Guides, or revised capacitor ratings for the 62525 series units?

Thanks in advance!!!

Hello all, I am also sorry to be posting again on this thread. My Mits has been working great since my original "bright spot" problems back '04 (finally got a replacement).

Anyway, I am now seeing the "wavy lines" on my HDMI input (using D* HD DVR). From what I've searched through the thread, they only seem to be reported on the analog inputs. My lines look exactly like some of the pics posted. BTW, they are MUCH worse on component inputs (DVD & Wii).

Has anyone seem the wavy lines on the HDMI input?
Can someone summarize the resolution to the problem (if any)?

I am dreading calling the warranty company (assuming I can find out who has taken over the Ultimate Electronics service program). Is it Warrantech?

Thanks for any info!

Hello all, I am also sorry to be posting again on this thread. My Mits has been working great since my original "bright spot" problems back '04 (finally got a replacement).

Anyway, I am now seeing the "wavy lines" on my HDMI input (using D* HD DVR). From what I've searched through the thread, they only seem to be reported on the analog inputs. My lines look exactly like some of the pics posted. BTW, they are MUCH worse on component inputs (DVD & Wii).

Has anyone seem the wavy lines on the HDMI input?
Can someone summarize the resolution to the problem (if any)?

I am dreading calling the warranty company (assuming I can find out who has taken over the Ultimate Electronics service program). Is it Warrantech?

Thanks for any info!


Hey btd,
It is Warrantech. Actually, I'm pretty sure they have always been the warrantor. I think I have their contact info around here somewhere if you need it...just let me know...

Randy

Just recently I received the Green Light of death on my WD-52525. Paid $80 for a tech to come out to my house for about 5 minutes and plug the TV and tell me that the board would have to be sent into Mits to be rebuilt and it would be around $900. Just not worth getting fixed, I thought Mits where a high quality product but after seeing the hundreds if not thousands of posts concerning Mits problems I have come to the conclusion that there are serious problems with these TV and Mits has no answer for it. That being said I was wondering if someone would be kind enough to send me the instructions for replacing the caps myself. I figure I have nothing to lose.

madcityballgame@yahoo.com

Anyone have an issue where their tv shuts off automatically? It seems to only happen under HDMI connections. TV will be normal and then the picture will get a little jittery and then it turns off. This started off happening rarely and has started happening more and more and it does not stay on long now. If you had this problem, what was done to fix it? I have already replaced 6 Caps, and rather buy a new tv if there is more repairs that have to be done. I have heard that a Firmware might fix it, but the person told me that the picture should not be jittery before it powers down.

Anyone have an issue where their tv shuts off automatically? It seems to only happen under HDMI connections. TV will be normal and then the picture will get a little jittery and then it turns off. This started off happening rarely and has started happening more and more and it does not stay on long now. If you had this problem, what was done to fix it? I have already replaced 6 Caps, and rather buy a new tv if there is more repairs that have to be done. I have heard that a Firmware might fix it, but the person told me that the picture should not be jittery before it powers down.

I have the same problem, but on any input, and Mitsubishi suspected that it was in the FMT board. My set has been ooc for about two months now, and after replacing 8 capacitors, the tech dropped by to reinstall and test the fix, but all we got was the blinking green light of death. With the chassis apart, he checked to see which board was failing by unpowering the DM and FMT boards individually, to see if the BGLOD would clear, but it never did. He took the chassis with him, so it looks like I'll be waiting another month or two to get HDTV back. At least I have an extended warranty, so its only costing my patience, and maybe getting a 'loaner' from Costco will alievate the wait. I'm kind of hoping that the problem is unfixable... new tv from the warranty company.

Bottom line, I don't know if just replacing the six capacitors will work or if you can self-diagnose it. you may want to replace all the electrolytics on all boards but I've also heard that most of the surface mounted capacitors were failing too. You may want to look at the possibility of getting the chassis rebuilt, which may be a couple hundred with an outside company listed earlier in the thread.

OK, so TV is dead again. Mits/Warrantech is replacing my set.

Offering me a WD65835. Problem is that it doesn't have VGA in.
My DVI-HDMI setup for my HTPC on my 52725 was unacceptable. I don't know if the HDMI inputs have improved in three years, but I don't want to lose my VGA in.

Anyone know any Mits sets that still have VGA input?

Hi new here. I am looking for the Yellow ribbon/flex cable-not the white one that connects the 2 boards together at the bottom of the outer board to the right on a wd-62725. After all the repairs, set was fine. Dog came in hit the boards and ripped the cable. Mitsubishi was no help. Thanks in advance. Mike.

I just finished replacing 6 CAPs on my power board after having the flashing green power led symptom.

After putting the set back together I get the steady red status led and the error code indicates 41 (short detected).

Any suggestions.

PS. I replaced two caps on the power board 6 months ago and the TV worked fine after words.

Check all connections. I will get that on mine and find that there is one of the hard plastic connectors not on all the way.

OK, so TV is dead again. Mits/Warrantech is replacing my set.

Offering me a WD65835. Problem is that it doesn't have VGA in.
My DVI-HDMI setup for my HTPC on my 52725 was unacceptable. I don't know if the HDMI inputs have improved in three years, but I don't want to lose my VGA in.

Anyone know any Mits sets that still have VGA input?

Buy an adapter.

Hey guys,

Just want to let everyone know that I am planning a western states calibration tour. States included are California, Arizona, Denver, and many stops between Chicago and the west... Check the map below for coverage.

http://www.cir-engineering.com/bin/08west.jpg

If you'd like me to do your Mits while I'm out please send a single email (craigr@cir-engineering.com) with your full name, full address, phone number(s), and TV make / model. I can then register you for the tour so that you receive a "confirmation" email next week. Once you get the confirmation just follow the instructions it contains to book a calibration date.

Registration will be open until at least mid September, but after that it will become very difficult to add more customers... so let me know ASAP if you are interested.

I also just put up a review for the xx833 sets. I have gotten similar results for all the Mits sets with color management (LINK) (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14640299#post14640299)

craigr

all conectors look good.

SM says its a short/dvi disconnected. I battled that for 2 days until there was a cable disconnected on the signal/tuner board.

Last night I experienced a power outage. This morning I awoke to find my 52525 suffering from the BGLOD. In the past, unplugging the unit for a time resolved this issue. Unfortunately, that 'fix' isn't working this time. Last time I had the BGLOD was a little over 2 years ago when I had the DM board replaced, paid for out of hand. Then later I experienced the red light, which I fixed myself by replacing the caps on the power board. Then the wavy lines showed up on analog inputs, which I was able to avoid by watching TV through the firewire input (HDMI has suffered a 'green push' from day one).

Well, lately the firewire input was giving problems with random sparkling blobs appearing on high detail/contrasting scenes. And finally, this. I've had it with this TV. I was always impressed by the picture this TV put out over component and firewire, but it isn't worth putting one more cent of money or one more minute of time into it anymore. I'm out.

Just want take a moment to thank those who were there to help from the beginning, a short 4 years ago. Good luck!

Guys need suggestions.. i just saw yellow lamp light..assuming that its time to change the lamp..
can you guys please suggest place to buy the lamp and instructions on changing the lamp in the housing or is it better to buy the whole thing and where to buy.....plz....thanks for any replies

5-12 total failure
8-12 "still in the shop, haven't heard anything, but hey you're in front of the 10 other chassis we sent in after yours"
:mad:

9-08-2008: received the chassis back, and had it installed. <SO FAR> all seems ok. VGA is usable (1024x768 only), DVD over component looks ok, HDMI looks great!

So, now I have everything that can cross crossed hoping that I don't lose the lamp or something stupid over the next year. Then, I think it'll be LED time.

Decided to have one last look at the chassis this morning. No obvious failure found.

I'm scrapping it, so if you're interested in something from it, please PM me.

All good except Powersupply - needs resistors replaced. New caps on PS,DM & Signal. PM me if ya need something. Bulb aprox 2 months old. Everything is in very good shape.

If you are scrapping out one of these, Mits was buying duds at one point. It would be worth checking with them, or with PTS to see what/if they are paying.

All good except fmt board. PM me if ya need something.

Where in Texas are you located?

After spending several nights reading thru the threads on MITs problems, I couldn't find anthing related to the issue I'm having and hope somebody out there has some ideas. TV was working fine when I turned if off. Next day I tried to turn it on and NOTHING. No noise, no clicks, no flashing lights, just like it was unplugged. I checked the breaker, power outlet, and anything else obvious. Next I started tearing into the chasis to check the fuses and capacitors. No obvious swollen capacitors and all the fuses tested fine. Any ideas about where to go now?

I am getting a message on my 62725 screen lower left corner in yellow.

It says:
Tuner is disconnected

then 5 seconds later it says:
Tuner is reconnected

It will not stop just keeps on forever. Tweeter guy came a couple weeks
back and reset it and it went away for about 30 minutes.

I just want to be able to disable this, anyone have any ideas??

thanks in advance

Garry

I am getting a message on my 62725 screen lower left corner in yellow.

It says:
Tuner is disconnected

then 5 seconds later it says:
Tuner is reconnected

It will not stop just keeps on forever. Tweeter guy came a couple weeks
back and reset it and it went away for about 30 minutes.

I just want to be able to disable this, anyone have any ideas??

thanks in advance

Garry

Which input does this happen on? The internal cable or antenna tuner?

Looks like my luck might have run out with my 62725....this morning when I went to turn on the set the timer light was just blinking green. I tried a system reset, but it just started blinking again as soon as I let up on the button. I tried unplugging it for around 10 minutes...it just did the same once I plugged it back in. I've got it unplugged now, and will just leave it for awhile. The good news is that my extended warranty is still in effect. Guess I'll see what they want to do when I call Monday...wish me luck!

Randy

Actually I am using neither one, I am coming direct from my Comcast box via components.

I do not use the tuner at all.

Garry

Randy, good luck. Those are the exact symptoms I encountered a couple weeks ago. No warranty here so I ended up tearing/breaking the TV apart into little bits and putting it in the trash bin.

Garry, do you have anything connected via firewire? The only time I ever experienced this was when I was getting a bad signal from another component via firewire. Disconnecting the firewire cable fixed it.

Randy, good luck. Those are the exact symptoms I encountered a couple weeks ago. No warranty here so I ended up tearing/breaking the TV apart into little bits and putting it in the trash bin.

Garry, do you have anything connected via firewire? The only time I ever experienced this was when I was getting a bad signal from another component via firewire. Disconnecting the firewire cable fixed it.

Thanks...I was just re-reading the thread above, and it looks like I'm going to need it. I would really just prefer to get them to buy me out on this deal..that would be as close to a win-win that could happen. Anyone care to offer an opinion on what a fair buyout price would be...something that would be attractive to Warrantech, as well as help me out toward a new LCD or plasma? Not that I think they'll go for it right off the bat, anyway...

Randy

hey all - hoping you can help here. Mitsu tech support can't.

I've got a US model 52725 and we will be moving to Chile in the near future. I'm trying to figure out if this TV will work in Chile if I install a transformer.

The back of the unit only says 120V / 60Hz. I can get a transformer to drop the voltage to 120, but it will still be 50 cycle. The part I'm worried about is I know cooling is critical on these beasts and I'm not sure if the Fan is AC powered and would slow down / burn out on the slower frequency.

Chile's power is 230V / 50 Hz.

Well Fry's decided to send my 62525 chassis to CA for repair. One year left on the warranty. Their 3rd party vendor picked up the TV today. Funny thing is that there was a 52525 or 52725 in the truck as well. I asked if it had the same problems (blinking green light and lines) and they said yes. Then they proceeded to point out two other Mits chassis of our same make and model in the truck also. They too were going to CA for repair for the same problems.

By the way, Fry's was kind enough to give me a "loaner TV"..........a 32" LCD. You all should see how nicely it sits on the Mits stand and completes my entertainment center. My wife and I are seriously considering rearranging the living room so that we can put one of the couches closer to the TV.

Now the waiting game starts. I was told 6 weeks. I won't hold my breath.

Well Fry's decided to send my 62525 chassis to CA for repair. One year left on the warranty. Their 3rd party vendor picked up the TV today. Funny thing is that there was a 52525 or 52725 in the truck as well. I asked if it had the same problems (blinking green light and lines) and they said yes. Then they proceeded to point out two other Mits chassis of our same make and model in the truck also. They too were going to CA for repair for the same problems.

By the way, Fry's was kind enough to give me a "loaner TV"..........a 32" LCD. You all should see how nicely it sits on the Mits stand and completes my entertainment center. My wife and I are seriously considering rearranging the living room so that we can put one of the couches closer to the TV.

Now the waiting game starts. I was told 6 weeks. I won't hold my breath.

Hi Dub,
Did you try to get them to buy you out of your contract? I'm just curious...

Thanks!
Randy

Hi Dub,
Did you try to get them to buy you out of your contract? I'm just curious...

Thanks!
Randy

During my initial call to Fry's about the problem I suggested it. The guy at Fry's said they would have to wait to hear back from the repair company (Burris and Price out of Irving, TX). When Burris and Price called me they told me that they would have to send the entire chassis to CA for repair. I asked them if they would be able to convince Fry's to just replace the set and I was told "not very likely". Burris and Price said that they get the estimate for repair and shipping and submit it to Fry's for approval. After that it is up to Fry's. I don't know if this decision is made by Fry's as a company or by each individual store. I bought mine at the Irving store off 635. After seeing the others in the truck I wouldn't count on them replacing it.

By the way, the guys with Burris and Price impressed me. They told me that when the chassis returns that they would check it out before delivering it back to me. They also told me that they would clean the inside of the set, including the mirrors, and adjust all the geometry aspects of the TV (tilt, vertical and horizontal alignment, overscan, etc.). At least someone cares.

During my initial call to Fry's about the problem I suggested it. The guy at Fry's said they would have to wait to hear back from the repair company (Burris and Price out of Irving, TX). When Burris and Price called me they told me that they would have to send the entire chassis to CA for repair. I asked them if they would be able to convince Fry's to just replace the set and I was told "not very likely". Burris and Price said that they get the estimate for repair and shipping and submit it to Fry's for approval. After that it is up to Fry's. I don't know if this decision is made by Fry's as a company or by each individual store. I bought mine at the Irving store off 635. After seeing the others in the truck I wouldn't count on them replacing it.

By the way, the guys with Burris and Price impressed me. They told me that when the chassis returns that they would check it out before delivering it back to me. They also told me that they would clean the inside of the set, including the mirrors, and adjust all the geometry aspects of the TV (tilt, vertical and horizontal alignment, overscan, etc.). At least someone cares.

Thanks for the info. Sounds like Burris and Price is a good outfit. I hope Goodman's is okay, too...guess I'll find out around 3pm. I'm not really hoping for a new set from Warrantech...I doubt that would happen, at least at the outset...and if it did, it would probably be another Mits and I'm not really anxious for that. I'm just hoping to get them to pay me cash to buy out the contract without fixing the set...they don't have to pay for the repairs, and give me a lesser dollar amount in cash that I can use toward a new set. It sounds like a win-win...so that is why there is probably no chance it will ever happen! ;)

Good luck with the repair...

Randy

I've heard that there are "Service Bulletins" that specify caps to replace by component number, with part changes, connectors to remove to narrow down to certain boards.

This is on 62525 family DLP's...

Needless to say, I'm trying to find information on these "Service Bulletins".... As our 62525 had to be re-capped once, and our 'extended warranty' expires next week, and I've been told we'll not receive another contract!

Hi,
I have a WD52525, everytime I watch HD OTA the TV will blue screen & then freeze..Reset lights blinking for about a min.. then shutsdown tv by itsefl. Is this because of the weak OTA signal or the TV itself is the problem? Thanks in advance...

Hi,
I have a WD52525, everytime I watch HD OTA the TV will blue screen & then freeze..Reset lights blinking for about a min.. then shutsdown tv by itsefl. Is this because of the weak OTA signal or the TV itself is the problem? Thanks in advance...

You need to get the software update from Miitsubishi.

Now the waiting game starts. I was told 6 weeks. I won't hold my breath.My set died on July 12th. Still in shop. I think it's been about 6-7 weeks since the chassis was sent back for rebuild. No word at all. I've replaced the set with a Panny Plasma. Love it.

Guys need suggestions.. i just saw yellow lamp light..assuming that its time to change the lamp..
can you guys please suggest place to buy the lamp and instructions on changing the lamp in the housing or is it better to buy the whole thing and where to buy.....plz....thanks for any replies

Since I'm now in the same boat.....
Any advice???

It's real easy to replace just the lamp. I did it last week on my 52525 . got it from execeldistributinginc.com It's a bursa lamp. The same one that was in my set. I paid $125 + shipping. Sure beat $229 Just go easy when taking off the paper guard. good luck Paul. :)

Since I'm now in the same boat.....
Any advice???

FYI, the yellow lamp light turns on when your hour meter/timer reaches 4,000 hours. It's probably a good idea to order a new lamp, but you don't have to change it right now. You can get the yellow light to turn off by resetting the hour meter

Some say they see a difference in pic quality and brightness when they replace the lamp. If you decide to go ahead and replace the lamp, make sure to keep the old one for an emergency backup.

I have a mitsubishi 62725 that was taken apart when I got it. When I hook everything up and power on, I get a blinking yellow status light. I can't find this error listed anywhere. Any help would be appreciated

The filter cover is open or the switch is not connected.

I shorted the wires going to the filter detect switch because I could not find one. It worked, but now I have the blinking green light. Where would the filter switch be located?

My 62725 has the "Blinking Green Light of Death" but I brought it BACK TO LIFE. It needs a kick start whenever I want to watch it, but this hack didn't cost me anything except some hours of my time. This works for me every time, while unplugging it only works some of the time.

BGLOD Hack
I installed a switch that cuts the 6v power to the FMT board. More specifically, the K1 connector on the power board has the 6v wire coming out of it. I cut the wire, soldered a new wire to each side and ran it to a switch I placed behind the front cover by the memory card slots. Now, when the green light is blinking, here's what I do:

turn 6v off
press the reset button (on the front of the set)
turn 6v on
wait 40 sec (green light stops blinking)
turn on TV

Pictures of connector, switch, fan
http://picasaweb.google.com/marcpicturz/MitsubishiWD62725#5255702565948373394


Now on to the next hack - this is unrelated to the "BGLOD hack". My set is also afflicted with the screen "freeze and die". That is, after a few hours of use, the picture would freeze with green stripes across it, followed by shutting off, without even running the lamp fan to cool down. My TV has not "frozen" since I added the fan.

Fan Hack
I installed a CPU fan (50x50x10mm, 12v) on the back of the TV to keep the FMT board (and other boards) from getting so hot. It runs when the TV is on. Before the change, during normal standby I noticed the back of FMT board at the PC input connector was quite warm, even though the chassis fan is always running during standby. Now, with the added CPU fan, this area actually cools down when the TV is on. Here's what I did:

remove the rear plastic cover and metal back plate (12x29inch)
tap into the power going to the center rear-facing fan that runs when the set is on (I measured this at 10v when running)
remove the cable card cover (I don't have a cable card)
to the right of the cable card hole cut larger vent holes into the back plate that line up with the existing holes in the electrical chassis behind it (optional)
mount the fan over the cable card hole and the new vent holes
wire the fan with some kind of connector, and be sure the fan is blowing outward
extra credit - I also had the electrical chassis out, so I removed the top chassis fan, cleaned the dust out and tied the wires out of the way to improve airflow
one side effect of this hack is more noticeable fan noise - some sound insulation or a different fan might help this


History
This TV is over 4 years old and still with the original bulb (4600 hours). I did replace the capacitors on the FMT (4 caps), DM (4) and POWER (6) boards in the past. It was never clear how much this helped the above problems, though some of the old caps were definitely bad.

Since I don't have an extended warranty, I was reluctant to send it to the shop after reading stories of slow, expensive repairs with no guarantee of satisfaction. My hacks have been working great for over a month now. Even my wife has become accustomed to the routine to turn on the TV. I'm now a happy TV viewer again.

Edit: added link to relevant pictures

I have a problem with dark scenes in which I get random lighter colored pixels in a column near the left side of the screen (I also get it on the right side to a lesser degree). I reviewed nearly 100 pages of this thread last night and found only a couple of reports of similar problems. There were no follow ups with answers.

TV is 4 years old, original bulb. See problem with over the air, cable, and HDMI signals. I do not have extended warranty. After reading over 100 pages I suspect the problem is some of the capacitors on the boards are now out of specifications. I have most of the manuals from Mitsubishi.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=121827&d=1223767063

I have a WD52725, how do I find how many hours are on the lamp?

I have the bglod, and I have already replaced the caps. Whenever I plug in the unit, I never get the 12V, 10V or 5V to come up from PON-2. When I inject voltage at pon-2 the voltages come up. So what do I try next? Any help would be appreciated.

-EE Chuck

I have a WD52725, how do I find how many hours are on the lamp?


Press the "Menu" button on the remote hand unit.
Press the buttons "2", "4", "7", and "0" in order.
You will see five sets of numbers at the bottom of the screen.


They represent:

Total TV on time.
Current lamp time.
Previous lamp time.
Previous lamp time 2.
Previous lamp time 3.

Great write up Rondoid, my set has had the wavy lines and the GBLOD, I'll try your hack.

Thanks for adding the pictures.

Rondoid!!

You are truly a genious. You probably saved my marriage as my wife was not happy with me throwing out my $2500 POS. Your BGLOD hack worked like a charm.

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!

Rondoid!! Your BGLOD hack worked like a charm.


I'm glad to see some success. I hope to keep mine going for a while without dumping any $ into it. (right... we'll see :rolleyes:)

I'm glad to see some success. I hope to keep mine going for a while without dumping any $ into it. (right... we'll see :rolleyes:)

Rondoid - Nice hack!

I'll have to try this out. If you read back around page 180 there was a group of us working on this and similar issues. Replacing the caps worked for me but my blinking light is back. :-(

What made you think of this?

Have you looked at the condition of the 6v signal? I wonder if it's noisey or something.

Anyway - thanks again. I may have to give this a try!

Rondoid - Nice hack!
What made you think of this?

Have you looked at the condition of the 6v signal? I wonder if it's noisey or something.

I stumbled across this by accident - after replacing caps on the power, DM and FMT boards to fix the BGLOD (blinking green light of death), I thought I was successful. The BGL quit blinking, however, there was no picture when I powered up. I found this was due to my forgetting to plug in the FMT power connector. On plugging that in, the BGLOD returned.

Somehow, I found that if the connector was disconnected when I plugged in the set, then re-connected during the 40 second warm up, the BGL would stop blinking and the set could start normally. I figured, maybe I could add a switch to do this - there were two choices: 6v or 12v? I tried the 6v, and that worked! It works from either a reset button press or unplugging the set. I added the switch and have been patting myself on the back ever since.


About the 6v signal, I can't help there. I only have a basic volt meter, and can barely make out which one is the 6v :). Hey, I'm an mechanical guy, not an electrical guy.

About the 6v signal, I can't help there. I only have a basic volt meter, and can barely make out which one is the 6v :). Hey, I'm an mechanical guy, not an electrical guy.


My friend and I have 40 years experience (combined) in electronics (board level design / troubleshooting). He actually owned and operated a store that specialized in "Big Screen" TV repair. (Mits, Sony, Hitachi, mainly) He has all the fun toys that make troubleshooting these easier - ESRs, Scopes, Generators, etc. My lamp light went on the other night. When I pulled the lamp and replaced it, a reboot is forced because the lamp cover has a switch that powers down the supplies. I knew in the back of my head that forcing a reboot would probably be bad. I've had it on a UPS. The last time it had a powerloss was sometime in June. It took two or three resets to bring it back. I knew the next time wouldn't be so nice and told myself that it was going in the truck and to his place the next time it acted up. :)

We are determined to lick this problem. It turns out your hack works on my set as well. The problem is there is so much communication between the FMT and DM board it's still hard to say if the problem is at the FMT side, yet.

Simply dumping the 6v line and bringing it back up likely causes the FMT board to reset and try to boot again. It's also likely that some sort of spike / noise on one of the supply lines at power up (AC plug in) causes a micro to go nuts (either on FMT or DM) and the reset of the FMT, which likely passes the reset on to the DM, causes the set to boot normally as all the supplies are up and stable at this point.

He is going to try to contact Mits and see if he can get some info. (schematics sounds doubtful)

We have measured and found several surface mount caps bad in addition to the "normal" caps that have been changed on this message-board (All of those have been changed already - FMT, DM, signal, and term-2. The power board has ALL new caps as well.)

What a mess. I'll update the group on our findings. I believe in karma...hopefully it'll help someone. It just may take us a few weeks.

I have a problem with dark scenes in which I get random lighter colored pixels in a column near the left side of the screen (I also get it on the right side to a lesser degree). I reviewed nearly 100 pages of this thread last night and found only a couple of reports of similar problems. There were no follow ups with answers.

TV is 4 years old, original bulb. See problem with over the air, cable, and HDMI signals. I do not have extended warranty. After reading over 100 pages I suspect the problem is some of the capacitors on the boards are now out of specifications. I have mostl of the manuals from Mitsubishi.



I have the same kind of problem with a vertical purple band at the right side and another band towards left of the screen. It started acting up with the diagonal lines using the component inputs. I switched the input to HDMI without any problems till the purple bands started a month ago. They seem to get worse over time.

I have a problem with dark scenes in which I get random lighter colored pixels in a column near the left side of the screen (I also get it on the right side to a lesser degree). I reviewed nearly 100 pages of this thread last night and found only a couple of reports of similar problems. There were no follow ups with answers.

TV is 4 years old, original bulb. See problem with over the air, cable, and HDMI signals. I do not have extended warranty. After reading over 100 pages I suspect the problem is some of the capacitors on the boards are now out of specifications. I have mostl of the manuals from Mitsubishi.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=121827&d=1223767063
I noticed the same problem on my 62525 after I replaced the bulb and gave the insides a good cleaning (hadn't noticed it before that, but not sure I was looking that closely). My set is also out of warranty.

The short horizontal streaks of bad pixels seem to occur in a fixed area of the screen, randomly occurring within a vertical "bar" area maybe a foot so so wide from screen top to bottom. This bad vertical bar area is positioned roughly a third of the way across from the left side of the screen, and looks very similar to the position shown in your photo.

It appears to occur using any video source (and even while using the built-in test menu patterns). The problem doesn't always seem to occur, and seems to vary in intensity over time.

Have you determined the cause?

No. I hope it is an easy fix. Anyone?

I've also posted on the Home Theater Shack (http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/video-displays-processors/13915-problem-mitsubishi-wd62725.html#post123839). Fingers crossed.

My friend and I have 40 years experience (combined) in electronics (board level design / troubleshooting). He actually owned and operated a store that specialized in "Big Screen" TV repair. (Mits, Sony, Hitachi, mainly) He has all the fun toys that make troubleshooting these easier - ESRs, Scopes, Generators, etc. My lamp light went on the other night. When I pulled the lamp and replaced it, a reboot is forced because the lamp cover has a switch that powers down the supplies. I knew in the back of my head that forcing a reboot would probably be bad. I've had it on a UPS. The last time it had a powerloss was sometime in June. It took two or three resets to bring it back. I knew the next time wouldn't be so nice and told myself that it was going in the truck and to his place the next time it acted up. :)

We are determined to lick this problem. It turns out your hack works on my set as well. The problem is there is so much communication between the FMT and DM board it's still hard to say if the problem is at the FMT side, yet.

Simply dumping the 6v line and bringing it back up likely causes the FMT board to reset and try to boot again. It's also likely that some sort of spike / noise on one of the supply lines at power up (AC plug in) causes a micro to go nuts (either on FMT or DM) and the reset of the FMT, which likely passes the reset on to the DM, causes the set to boot normally as all the supplies are up and stable at this point.

He is going to try to contact Mits and see if he can get some info. (schematics sounds doubtful)

We have measured and found several surface mount caps bad in addition to the "normal" caps that have been changed on this message-board (All of those have been changed already - FMT, DM, signal, and term-2. The power board has ALL new caps as well.)

What a mess. I'll update the group on our findings. I believe in karma...hopefully it'll help someone. It just may take us a few weeks.

All -

I'm not sure if anyone is really listening anymore. This board has kinda dropped off latey.

Anyway, I think we have found our problem and I assume it's a common failure!!!! It's an issue on the FMT board near two Sony CXAxxxxx chips. These chips are used for input switching and PIP control. This may also be causing the "wavy lines" issue on the component inputs. Although I haven't been able to test that yet. (no DVD player with component outs at the shop)

I do not have specific part numbers / locations yet because we are still testing but we think we have this problem solved!

Woo Hoo.

The bad news is this repair will not be for the faint of heart. You may have to enlist your local electronics shop to help you with the desoldering and soldering of the SMT Caps in the area.

We put the ESR on many of the SMT caps throughout the FMT and DM boards and sadly found many out of tolerance or close to it. We also found a timing cap on the switching supply on the main power supply board that was cooked. I'm surprised the switcher would stay running.

More to come......

I'll update...My chassis has been off to Mitsubishi since 9/2, and the shop expects to see it back within the next couple of weeks. I guess that puts the backlog at Mitsubishi for rebuilds at about 8-9 weeks.

I'm hoping that the rebuild will include the replacement of the SMT caps, as I can't do those on my own. In the mean time, I've been enjoying a Visio LCD I picked up at Costco.

Tbully,

I and many others are still here, watching from the sidelines. Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated, I am sure. My 62725 passed the 5000 hour mark, and the only problem it shows continuously is the wavy lines. I'd like to be prepared to repair it when the inevitable happens, so I keep on eye on this thread. TIA.

Tbully,

I and many others are still here, watching from the sidelines. Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated, I am sure. My 62725 passed the 5000 hour mark, and the only problem it shows continuously is the wavy lines. I'd like to be prepared to repair it when the inevitable happens, so I keep on eye on this thread. TIA.

While I have the "lines" on component and a nasty VGA sig, my primary goal was / is to get the set to boot (GBLOD). However, the fact that the problem we found was in the switching of signals coming from TERM-2 (and also some bad caps near the VGA processing) makes me "hope" that the wavy lines issue is fixed or nearly fixed as well.

The good news here as it looks like we certainly narrowed the problem down to FMT and down to a component or two on that board.

My friend still has his account open with Mits (he has closed his shop long ago) and it is true that they are taking that long for rebuilds. They no longer stock new board replacements (my first choice actually) but I'm sure you can still get board level parts from them if needed. That's when we decided to get to work and track this down (WITH NO SCHEMATICS! :mad: ) and came up with this.

Essentially there's a clock signal off of each of these chips. The one had a nasty looking waveform. If you heated the chip with a soldering iron the waveform would clean up. After cycling power and keeping the heat applied, the set would boot! We immediately figured this was a problem in the chip and got a little worried about availability. After more digging, though, we found a bad bi-polar SMT and some others in the general area. Big surprise, a bad cap seems like the culprit.

With all of that being said, who knows if everyone's GBLOD is caused by the same issue. I'm sure several other caps could cause this. (we even changed 30+ "suspects" along the way, many of them SMTs) If you recall, some of my picture issues earlier were from SMTs on the DM board near the processor. That would clear after the set warmed up.

I have the 62825 so I guess I "get" why this set has to be almost fully powered when not "on". (DVR) It just seems like such a waste though and it's no wonder why these are failing so early. Crap comonents (many Jamicons) + ~70 watts of heat 24x7 = premature failure.

I wonder if anyone from page ~180 is still around (noplasma, etc).....

I've been watching, and am interested in the potential "Wavy Lines" fix...

Can you take a picture of that area of the board, and post it? Also, please indicate the component type, value, and voltage.

I have a 62525 and it just went out of warranty. Earlier this year, they replaced 22 caps on multiple boards to get it going again.
I'm documenting everything I can, for the 'next time'....

I'm relatively comfortable with surface mount cap replacement.... have an ESR meter, etc....

It's working now, but like I said, I'm documenting as much as possible for "Next Time"...

Jan

Can you take a picture of that area of the board, and post it? Also, please indicate the component type, value, and voltage.


All,

Please be patient while we vet out the fix. This IS NOT intended to be a "wavy line" fix but more of a fix for the GBLOD after the normal caps (as listed several times on this board) have already been tried.

We have over 20 hours EACH in to troubleshooting this and are willing to give this information away for free for the better good.

Many would charge for this type of work to recoop their time and materials investment. They way I see it is if I charged it would just be on the internet within hours anyway. :D

I do have a paypal if anyone is feeling generous though! (only sorta kidding)

More to come soon...remember...I'm out a TV too! (I have twin daughters at home that currently cannot watch Dan Zanes while playing in the livingroom. I can say that I'm happy that his songs have not been stuck in my head though!)

I wonder if anyone from page ~180 is still around (noplasma, etc).....

Nice timing... I'm dropping by again since my set finally achieved BGLOD status. I was about to toss it (I don't do SMT soldering) until I read the excellent post on creating the 6V switch. That, I can handle.

Essentially there's a clock signal off of each of these chips. The one had a nasty looking waveform. If you heated the chip with a soldering iron the waveform would clean up. After cycling power and keeping the heat applied, the set would boot! ... After more digging, though, we found a bad bi-polar SMT and some others in the general area. Big surprise, a bad cap seems like the culprit.

Nice work. Perhaps a dirty supply is corrupting the output of some digital ICs?

I have the 62825 so I guess I "get" why this set has to be almost fully powered when not "on". (DVR) It just seems like such a waste though and it's no wonder why these are failing so early. Crap comonents (many Jamicons) + ~70 watts of heat 24x7 = premature failure.

The engineers probably designed it that way in order to minimize tv turn-on time (which was already lengthy due to need to warm up the lamp). But then they probably didn't have a QC program that actually qualified the design for how it would be used.

For those who still have a working TV, they may want to consider leaving the set cold when its not in use (a surge protector switch would be a convenient way to flip off the power). Waiting for it to boot every time you want to watch TV is a pain, but so is opening up that damn electrical chassis.

Oh, one more thing, we're finally getting the wavy lines that appear at turn-on and then disappear within 10 minutes.

Nice timing... I'm dropping by again since my set finally achieved BGLOD status. I was about to toss it (I don't do SMT soldering) until I read the excellent post on creating the 6V switch. That, I can handle.



Nice work. Perhaps a dirty supply is corrupting the output of some digital ICs?



The engineers probably designed it that way in order to minimize tv turn-on time (which was already lengthy due to need to warm up the lamp). But then they probably didn't have a QC program that actually qualified the design for how it would be used.

For those who still have a working TV, they may want to consider leaving the set cold when its not in use (a surge protector switch would be a convenient way to flip off the power). Waiting for it to boot every time you want to watch TV is a pain, but so is opening up that damn electrical chassis.

Oh, one more thing, we're finally getting the wavy lines that appear at turn-on and then disappear within 10 minutes.


Welcome back, sir!

They have caps EVERYWHERE battling noise. In places along a bus you can see upwards of 6 100uf SMT caps (6v for the 3.3v bus) in parallel. I assume they put them near each chip for cleaning switching bounces from each chip / processor on the bus.

You'll see that I fixed my 10 min noisy picture back several pages but my problems worsend recently. We found that even after getting the set to boot there was noise in several areas causing the chips to run extremly hot. In other words, I believe the "switch" is a great temporary fix which actually helped us track down the real issue but will eventually result in semi-conductor failure.

I now have a perfectly working set! No wavy lines, no messed up VGA signal, and of course it boots every time!

I am still compiling my notes so it'll be a few days before I'm ready. We ended up find many of those "paralled" SMT caps dead. But were mainly in the "regional" power supplies on the FMT board. We also found a few bad on the DM board which likely fixed my noise issue.

The reboot issue was a bad non-polar cap on the FMT board. I'll have pictures soon. This, among a few "questionable" caps, were what caused th BGLOD.

Bottom line is their design sucks. They are running these sets in a cage that is "hot" 24x7. They are running their caps at their limits (e.g. using a 16v cap on a 12v supply - too close IMO) Finally, they've used crappy suppliers to boot.

More soon...I promise. While putting my set back together I pulled a bone-headed / novice move and sliced a ribbon cable. We're trying to get one from Mits, now.

Hi all,
I got my 62725 back from remanufacturing, and I have to say it looks pretty darn good! For you DFW-area folks, I was quite pleased with Goodman's, as well. Now I have to decide if this set will still be in my main viewing area, or if I am going to sell it, etc. (a couple of friends are interested, and since I still have a year left on the extended warranty I think I can sell it in good conscience :)), since I now have a Panny 50" 1080p plasma I bought to keep from going without during the repair period. A bit of a dilemma, but I suppose there are far worse problems to have!!! ;)

Randy

The bad news is this repair will not be for the faint of heart. You may have to enlist your local electronics shop to help you with the desoldering and soldering of the SMT Caps in the area.

...We ended up find many of those "paralled" SMT caps dead.


I'm beginning to feel a little faint of heart. Fixing a few leaded caps, I can handle. Checking numerous surface mounts (and replacing a handful) is too much for me -- especially if there's a chunky risk that I'll repeat the process in six months when a few more crack.

I'll give the 6V switch a shot ... after that, if I have more issues, I'm going to junk it.

I do think it's cool that you've been able to apply your skills to get your TV back to its original performance. Nice work. Definitely post your results for the hobbyists willing to go the distance. For those with the skill & the will-power, there's something rewarding about keep your electronics working (even if your hours of labor approaches the replacement cost).

Hi all,
I got my 62725 back from remanufacturing, and I have to say it looks pretty darn good! For you DFW-area folks, I was quite pleased with Goodman's, as well. Now I have to decide if this set will still be in my main viewing area, or if I am going to sell it, etc. (a couple of friends are interested, and since I still have a year left on the extended warranty I think I can sell it in good conscience :)), since I now have a Panny 50" 1080p plasma I bought to keep from going without during the repair period. A bit of a dilemma, but I suppose there are far worse problems to have!!! ;)

Randy

Thanks for posting Randy. It made me realize that it has now been 6 full weeks since they picked up my TV.

So I just got off the phone with them and got some mixed signals. They told me that the TV is still being repaired. So I ask if that means the chassis had been sent back from Mits and was told that it appears so. Appears so???? I asked what that means and was told that their system shows that it is still being worked on. So I ask what "still being worked on" means. I was then told that they have been getting chassis back from Mits that are not fixed and they have to send them back again. This did not make me very happy. I told them that if the chassis is bad to let me know before sending it back to Mits so that I can give Fry's an earfull, for what ever good it will do. Still under warranty.

My confidence is not very high right now. Just the tone and the way certain sentences were phrased (i.e. vague). If I don't hear back from them tomorrow I am going to be calling back Wed. AM as well as giving Fry's a call. Will keep ya'll (you all) posted.

I'm beginning to feel a little faint of heart. Fixing a few leaded caps, I can handle. Checking numerous surface mounts (and replacing a handful) is too much for me -- especially if there's a chunky risk that I'll repeat the process in six months when a few more crack.

I'll give the 6V switch a shot ... after that, if I have more issues, I'm going to junk it.

I do think it's cool that you've been able to apply your skills to get your TV back to its original performance. Nice work. Definitely post your results for the hobbyists willing to go the distance. For those with the skill & the will-power, there's something rewarding about keep your electronics working (even if your hours of labor approaches the replacement cost).

I'd be willing to bet that the "switch" will work just fine for you. I'm going to attempt to show as few components as possible. Another suggestion may be to give the board(s) to a trusted show with a few bucks and a case of beer to help. (to drink afterwards - not during :-) )

We replaced all caps (both types) with high temp and higher voltage so I hope that it lasts me longer this time. All caps (except 6 or 8) were changed on the FMT board to be safe. The DM board got my original treatment (about 10) a few months ago and about another 15 or so. (All caps replaced on the PWB for good measure - one timing cap was completely shot there)

I'll post pics and an official write-up soon.

Ouch...that is not good to hear at all, Dub. I am not sure exactly how long mine was gone, but I do know that Goodman's checked it out thoroughly, including cleaning all lenses and mirrors and adjusting the geometry before bringing mine back out. Two of the shop techs actually delivered it to help out the field guys. They were very nice, and it was comforting to see that they took pride in their part of the work that was done...you could tell when the gentleman was telling me what all he'd done.

Here's hoping you get some better news in your next contact with them...keep us in the loop.

Randy

Thanks for posting Randy. It made me realize that it has now been 6 full weeks since they picked up my TV.

So I just got off the phone with them and got some mixed signals. They told me that the TV is still being repaired. So I ask if that means the chassis had been sent back from Mits and was told that it appears so. Appears so???? I asked what that means and was told that their system shows that it is still being worked on. So I ask what "still being worked on" means. I was then told that they have been getting chassis back from Mits that are not fixed and they have to send them back again. This did not make me very happy. I told them that if the chassis is bad to let me know before sending it back to Mits so that I can give Fry's an earfull, for what ever good it will do. Still under warranty.

My confidence is not very high right now. Just the tone and the way certain sentences were phrased (i.e. vague). If I don't hear back from them tomorrow I am going to be calling back Wed. AM as well as giving Fry's a call. Will keep ya'll (you all) posted.

Regarding the 6v switch to the FMT board, only a delay or relay seems to be required. I've not seen that a particular time is relevant to switching on after reset, other than not allowing power during the power up. I hope someone else will be able to confirm my findings, in that it may present a fix without aethstetic modifications.

Other than that, I have graduated to the wavy line... I'll have to recheck the forum for instruction dealing with that.

I'd be willing to bet that the "switch" will work just fine for you. I'm going to attempt to show as few components as possible. Another suggestion may be to give the board(s) to a trusted show with a few bucks and a case of beer to help. (to drink afterwards - not during :-) )

We replaced all caps (both types) with high temp and higher voltage so I hope that it lasts me longer this time. All caps (except 6 or 8) were changed on the FMT board to be safe. The DM board got my original treatment (about 10) a few months ago and about another 15 or so. (All caps replaced on the PWB for good measure - one timing cap was completely shot there)

I'll post pics and an official write-up soon.

Tbully,

This is fantastic news! Congrats and thanks sincerely from many of us here. I'll be looking forward to your write-up.

Have you or your friend considered the possible business opportunity from this mess? Anything from board re-works, or even just upgraded parts kits for each board? Don't know, just something to think about to help recoup your R&D. :)

Regarding the 6v switch to the FMT board, only a delay or relay seems to be required. I've not seen that a particular time is relevant to switching on after reset, other than not allowing power during the power up. I hope someone else will be able to confirm my findings, in that it may present a fix without aethstetic modifications.

Other than that, I have graduated to the wavy line... I'll have to recheck the forum for instruction dealing with that.

The reason this switch works (or worked in my case) is because the oscillator I spoke of the other day actually shuts down after the boot. I guess it's not needed after POST / BOOT. I wish I had a schematic to tell you why. So I assume that the lack of this noisy clock circuit on initial power up (controlled by the 6v line) allows the set to do its POST / BOOT. The problem is, after you bring the 6v line back up, the chips on these noisy supplies COOK. It's only a matter of time before something else breaks. (IMO)

On the other hand it could last 2-3 more years (which will likely be when this set starts to become obsolete anyway). :D

Tbully,

This is fantastic news! Congrats and thanks sincerely from many of us here. I'll be looking forward to your write-up.

Have you or your friend considered the possible business opportunity from this mess? Anything from board re-works, or even just upgraded parts kits for each board? Don't know, just something to think about to help recoup your R&D. :)

He actually used to own a shop that specialized in this type of repair. (component level "big screen TV" repair) We did very little "board swapping". *shutter* That's the easiest but most expensive way to fix things and typically isn't very profitable.

I used to work for him and fix the more difficult issues that the other techs couldn't nail down. It was the platform for my engineering / electronics knowledge.

Anyway, he got bored of the business and moved on to other (successful) ventures.

I'm here to offer my / our knowledge in the hopes that it helps someone else. I'll accept donations as it has taken a huge amount of our time and I will help as much as I can but can't imply a warranty! :D

The problem is, after you bring the 6v line back up, the chips on these noisy supplies COOK. It's only a matter of time before something else breaks. (IMO)

Just to be sure -- now that you've fixed your faulty parts, have you confirmed that the hot chips referred to above are much cooler now?

On another note, I went ahead and did the 6V switch fix. It worked like a charm! Leeisfishing hinted towards the solution back in post #5285, kudos to Rondoid to narrowing it down the 6V supply and recommending the addition of an external switch.

Unless I get a surge of motivation after tbully posts his solution writeup, I'll likely live with this stopgap until the set dies. Now that a few of us have added the switch in, we can start getting a sense of how enduring this solution is.

I'm here to offer my / our knowledge in the hopes that it helps someone else. I'll accept donations as it has taken a huge amount of our time and I will help as much as I can but can't imply a warranty! :D

Back in the early days, I was one of the first ones to get the red light of death and write up a solution for the swollen caps on the power board. One individual was so grateful for the fix that he offered me free Adobe software since he was a manager for the company. My wife happens to be a photographer, so I gladly accepted a free copy of Photoshop CS3 for her sake (she had been working with an older version).

So good luck! Hopefully some well-funded and grateful individual will stumble across your fix. If I were an employee for a company with free vouchers, I'd give both you and rondoid one! ;-)

Back in the early days, I was one of the first ones to get the red light of death and write up a solution for the swollen caps on the power board. One individual was so grateful for the fix that he offered me free Adobe software since he was a manager for the company. My wife happens to be a photographer, so I gladly accepted a free copy of Photoshop CS3 for her sake (she had been working with an older version).

So good luck! Hopefully some well-funded and grateful individual will stumble across your fix. If I were an employee for a company with free vouchers, I'd give both you and rondoid one! ;-)

LOL! Not a bad gift! My wife is an amateur photographer as well. Too funny.

Look for my write-up soon. It's on my "list".

Rondoid especially deserves a pat on the back. After all, it was his (and leeisfishing) findings that helped us down this path.

Just to be sure -- now that you've fixed your faulty parts, have you confirmed that the hot chips referred to above are much cooler now?


Congrats on your "switch". I figured it'd work. This must be a common problem on the FMT board.

Yes, the "chips" (sorry - I can't be more specific w/o a skat) run MUCH cooler now. In fact, you have to leave your finger on a given chip for a long time before you can feel any warmth. Prior, it was was uncomfortable to do so for more that a few seconds.

Yes, the "chips" (sorry - I can't be more specific w/o a skat) run MUCH cooler now. In fact, you have to leave your finger on a given chip for a long time before you can feel any warmth. Prior, it was was uncomfortable to do so for more that a few seconds.

Wow... all that heat. At my work, we call that an accelerated life test. And Mits probably isn't using space grade parts rated to 125C.

So did you narrow the problem down to a damaged non-cap part? Or is it non-filtered noise caused by multiple bad caps?

Wow... all that heat. At my work, we call that an accelerated life test. And Mits probably isn't using space grade parts rated to 125C.

So did you narrow the problem down to a damaged non-cap part? Or is it non-filtered noise caused by multiple bad caps?


I was lucky that all semi-conductors are still in good shape (although we did replace a zener that was unable to cap it's voltage where it's rated for - not the problem fix). All of my issues were related to the several bad caps we found.

We were careful not to replace too many caps at once while tracking down that oscilator issue and we think we know which 4 or 5 it was. We got a little crazy when tracking the VGA and component noise problem, though. :D Most of the FMT has new caps and several on the DM as well.

Funny you mention that temp, all new caps we put in the set are rated at 125C.

Repair company just called my wife and told her that the chassis they just got back was indeed DOA. The guy told my wife that he talked to Mits directly and was told that they would replace the set. Don't know if that means a new one or a referb. I would think if there were going to replace it with a referb that they would just send another chassis. Right? Thoughts?

If I am indeed getting a new set what do you guys think is reasonable. My current....errr former set is/was a 62525. I don't see any 62" sets being produced by Mits., closest ones I see are 65" and 60". Would think I should get a 65". Then there are the models. Now I paid $4K for my set back in 04, the 65" Diamond series is going for around $2,500 on most websites. The problem I anticipate is that they will not think the Diamond Series is comparable to my set. I believe comparable is written in the Warranty.....with Fry's.

Speaking of warranty. So my wife was told that Mits said they would replace the set since it would be easier than doing it through Frys. Now this is a comment that has not been heard through my ears. However, if this is true what advantages and/or disadvantages do you guys see with dealing directly with Mits vs. dealing with Frys?

I appreciate any comments you may have. I would like to have a plan before I get a call from Mits.

Interesting DubC. My chassis has returned to the shop after being removed back on 9/2, and will be reinstalled in my TV on Thursday. (I guess that clocks out at about 8 weeks) I will still have the warranty until July next year, but I'm hoping that my chassis will also fail on install, so that I can get a new TV.

If you want to stay with DLP, anything they give you will be better than what you had before, with the key exceptions of firewire and cablecard. If you are offered the bottom of the line, I would remind them about missing features in comparison to what you may be offered. I don't see how you will lose in the end, though, with a bigger TV, with a better engineered chassis. You may want to consider an equal value buyout (in cash) if they offer that to you, (if you can get that from Fry's, because Mitz probably won't), so you can pick the next tv with a voucher credit.

Interesting DubC. My chassis has returned to the shop after being removed back on 9/2, and will be reinstalled in my TV on Thursday. (I guess that clocks out at about 8 weeks) I will still have the warranty until July next year, but I'm hoping that my chassis will also fail on install, so that I can get a new TV.

If you want to stay with DLP, anything they give you will be better than what you had before, with the key exceptions of firewire and cablecard. If you are offered the bottom of the line, I would remind them about missing features in comparison to what you may be offered. I don't see how you will lose in the end, though, with a bigger TV, with a better engineered chassis. You may want to consider an equal value buyout (in cash) if they offer that to you, (if you can get that from Fry's, because Mitz probably won't), so you can pick the next tv with a voucher credit.
I spoke to the repair guy and he told me that they installed the returned chassis and it seemed to work at first, but subsequently failed the very next day. He told me that this (the "24 hour failure") has been common with some of the more recent returned chassis. Might be something you want to mention to your repair company.

The repair guy did in fact say Mits would be supplying me with a new TV. I agree that no matter which new TV Mits decides to give me, it will be better than my 62525. There are 4 65" DLPs that I saw on the Mits website, the WD-65C8, WD-65735, WD-65736, and the Diamond 65835. I plan on starting high (i.e. the Diamond Series) and probably only settling with the WD-65736.

With that said, you also touch on the current warranty I still have with Fry's. It might be easier to deal directly with Mits., but I have to consider other options thorough the warranty. Hell, I might be able to use the word "Sony" in my favor. I need to find out what my options would be through Fry's.

Any other thoughts or opinions???

I spoke to the repair guy and he told me that they installed the returned chassis and it seemed to work at first, but subsequently failed the very next day. He told me that this (the "24 hour failure") has been common with some of the more recent returned chassis. Might be something you want to mention to your repair company.

The repair guy did in fact say Mits would be supplying me with a new TV. I agree that no matter which new TV Mits decides to give me, it will be better than my 62525. There are 4 65" DLPs that I saw on the Mits website, the WD-65C8, WD-65735, WD-65736, and the Diamond 65835. I plan on starting high (i.e. the Diamond Series) and probably only settling with the WD-65736.

With that said, you also touch on the current warranty I still have with Fry's. It might be easier to deal directly with Mits., but I have to consider other options thorough the warranty. Hell, I might be able to use the word "Sony" in my favor. I need to find out what my options would be through Fry's.

Any other thoughts or opinions???


Aren't the laser-based Mits DLPs supposed to be out soon? I have no idea how good they will (or are suppsed to) be, but it might be worth poking around some...especially if you are tied to getting a Mits as a replacement.

Randy

Randy,

Reports of the Laservue as starting to trickle in. First off, the price is $7k for a 65"! Most say the picture is nice, but not that nice. Plus, there seems to be some weird color effect on large areas of the same color. That's it in a nutshell.

I was holding out for one of these, as I thought they'd be much nicer and would eliminate the biggest complaint I have about my 62725: fan noise! As it is, I'm glad Tbully will hopefully provide the guide that will most likely help me extend the useful life of my 720p. If I can't hold out, I can't believe how cheap the 65" Mits DLPs are these days. And yes, I would buy another Mits DLP. (I know I'm in the minority here).

Thanks for the info, bg. Interesting, but not at all encouraging. And it looks like my happiness with the repair of my TV was premature...looks like it is dead again. I turned it off last night and went to bed. Early this morning I noticed the screen was sort of 'glowing.' The power light was off, as it should be, so I tried turning the set on. Nothing really happened. I then tried the reset button. The 'glow' went away, but I still never got any video output. I was going to unplug it today then plug it back in when I got home, but then decided that I really don't intend to start playing that game. It was supposedly repaired, and I shouldn't have to do that. Anyway, I guess I'll call Goodman's and ask them if they deal with it now, or if I need to call Warrantech. FWIW, I am not in any way meaning to say anything bad about Goodman's...they have been great.....

Wish me luck...

Randy

Thanks for the info, bg. Interesting, but not at all encouraging. And it looks like my happiness with the repair of my TV was premature...looks like it is dead again. I turned it off last night and went to bed. Early this morning I noticed the screen was sort of 'glowing.' The power light was off, as it should be, so I tried turning the set on. Nothing really happened. I then tried the reset button. The 'glow' went away, but I still never got any video output. I was going to unplug it today then plug it back in when I got home, but then decided that I really don't intend to start playing that game. It was supposedly repaired, and I shouldn't have to do that. Anyway, I guess I'll call Goodman's and ask them if they deal with it now, or if I need to call Warrantech. FWIW, I am not in any way meaning to say anything bad about Goodman's...they have been great.....

Wish me luck...

Randy


Sorry to hear that Randy. That's certainly a new failure-mode. If you ever find out what it is / was, let us know!

Good luck!

It is nice to see some progress on the (GBLOD) and the wavy lines. It has been some time since I have checked out this thread.
My 62825 with the switch is still going strong.(Installed Feb 08) My other 2 52725's are still going too. One is still under warranty and they replaced the format board for the wavy lines and (GBLOD)issues(March 08). The other 52725 has the wavy lines on the component inputs so I just use the HDMI with an HDMI switcher. I will definitely tear it apart again if TBULLY posts the fix. (Thanks TBULLY) I know how time consuming these tv's can be. I have had all 3 of mine torn apart multiple times.

All -

I'm not sure if anyone is really listening anymore. This board has kinda dropped off latey.

Anyway, I think we have found our problem and I assume it's a common failure!!!! It's an issue on the FMT board near two Sony CXAxxxxx chips. These chips are used for input switching and PIP control. This may also be causing the "wavy lines" issue on the component inputs. Although I haven't been able to test that yet. (no DVD player with component outs at the shop)

I do not have specific part numbers / locations yet because we are still testing but we think we have this problem solved!

Woo Hoo.

The bad news is this repair will not be for the faint of heart. You may have to enlist your local electronics shop to help you with the desoldering and soldering of the SMT Caps in the area.

We put the ESR on many of the SMT caps throughout the FMT and DM boards and sadly found many out of tolerance or close to it. We also found a timing cap on the switching supply on the main power supply board that was cooked. I'm surprised the switcher would stay running.

More to come......

This is interesting. I sent a FMT board out to PTS CORP back in Feb and they sent it back saying it was unrepairable. (Post 5430)
Actually they did say it was IC8B02 that was bad and they are not available from the manufacturer.
I looked it up in the manual and it is a CXA3506R (8-bit 120MSPS A/D Converter Amplifier)
It looks like about a 150 pin chip. I am thinking what you said. "It is too difficult or impossible to replace."

I wonder if the chip was truly bad or the caps around it. Maybe the bad caps fried the chip like you said. I stuck that board in the warranty tv and called the warranty company. :D

This is interesting. I sent a FMT board out to PTS CORP back in Feb and they sent it back saying it was unrepairable. (Post 5430)
Actually they did say it was IC8B02 that was bad and they are not available from the manufacturer.
I looked it up in the manual and it is a CXA3506R (8-bit 120MSPS A/D Converter Amplifier)
It looks like about a 150 pin chip. I am thinking what you said. "It is too difficult or impossible to replace."

I wonder if the chip was truly bad or the caps around it. Maybe the bad caps fried the chip like you said. I stuck that board in the warranty tv and called the warranty company. :D


This is VERY interesting. The chips we were "playing" around were Sony (CXA) chips. I do not have a board in front of me right now so I can't give a location number. I'd be willing to bet that was the chip. (there are two of them actually) The part is available. It is tough to change. We have the equipment to do so but were glad we didn't have to. :D

It is nice to see some progress on the (GBLOD) and the wavy lines. It has been some time since I have checked out this thread.
My 62825 with the switch is still going strong.(Installed Feb 08) My other 2 52725's are still going too. One is still under warranty and they replaced the format board for the wavy lines and (GBLOD)issues(March 08). The other 52725 has the wavy lines on the component inputs so I just use the HDMI with an HDMI switcher. I will definitely tear it apart again if TBULLY posts the fix. (Thanks TBULLY) I know how time consuming these tv's can be. I have had all 3 of mine torn apart multiple times.

Also interesting. Maybe the FMT board is the culprit for (almost) all of the problems. I know for a fact that I had to replace about 12 caps on the DM board a few months back to cure my "wavy picture when cold" issue.

We tracked the VGA problem (likely) to a few regional supplies on the FMT but also found a dirty supply on the DM. When we fixed those supplies, the VGA and Component inputs cleaned up nicely.

I promise to get the specifics out soon. I am waiting on my replacement ribbon cable (I'm such an idiot) that we spec'd out at Digikey. Once I get the set up and running, I'll take the time to give my writeup.

I'm not good with taking pictures so if anyone has a good picture of the DM and FMT boards (and PWB while you're at it), I could use them to circle "problem areas".

I couldn't wait any longer. ......

I cracked the seal on my 52725 that is under warranty but has the wavy lines.

I took the format board from the 52725 that is having the flashing power problem and put it in the working 52725. I got the flashing green power led problem on the working tv. (Kind of what I expected since I could remove the FC (power) connection on the format board and the flashing power Led tv would boot and stop flashing.)

So the format board is definitely causing the flashing power light problem.

I will swap all the boards one at a time from the flashing power led tv to the good tv to verify all the boards work.

During my board swapping I am going to see if I can eliminate the wavy lines on the tv that boots and narrow it down to a board. Hopefully I can do this without putting the shields back on.

Update:
I swapped all the boards into the wavy line tv one at a time except for the format board because that one was bad and ALL the boards(Terminal 1 & 2, DM, Power and Signal) worked but I still had wavy lines present.

So either the 2nd tv with the blinking power Led has the wavy lines problem also or the problem resides in the format board.

I have my Xbox 360 hooked up to component 1 and I have noticed if I change my Xbox 360 to 720p to 1080i the lines are worse so maybe it is something in the format board.

I will send the format board to PTScorp so they can rebuild it and when I get it back I can try it in the wavy lines tv to see if that was the problem.

Also, I took pics of all the boards in case someone needs them.
Terminal 2 board- http://img156.imageshack.us/my.php?image=terminal2ho4.jpg
DM Board - http://img256.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dmhv1.jpg
Format Board - http://img169.imageshack.us/my.php?image=formatpk2.jpg
Power Board - http://img153.imageshack.us/my.php?image=powerda6.jpg
Signal Board - http://img186.imageshack.us/my.php?image=signalbl6.jpg

Here is a list of all the larger Caps on all the boards. The red ones are the ones I have replaced and it also has Digi-Key's part#.
There are a few 1000uF 10v caps that I replaced with 1000uF 16v caps.
All caps I went with are rated for 105DegC.
http://img266.imageshack.us/my.php?image=capssk8.jpg

I posted pics on this thread.
Thanks again TBULLY.

It looks like the power board link is dead. I am pretty sure I saved the pics. I will upload it again.

It looks like the power board link is dead. I am pretty sure I saved the pics. I will upload it again.

Yep. I got the others though. Thanks. This will help.

Interesting blue wire on the FMT board. I don't recall seeing that wire on my 62825. It looks like they are pulling the 6 or 12 volt supply and dumping it directly downstream for some reason.

Actually there is a 9v reglator in that area too......

That is a board from a 52725. The 62825 has some slight differences for the DVR. I am sure the area of failure is the same for both.

Sorry to hear that Randy. That's certainly a new failure-mode. If you ever find out what it is / was, let us know!

Good luck!

I think I spoke too soon...that is what you get for looking at stuff at 5am. I went home last night and the TV fired right up....well, at least for a DLP, that is! I'm still not sure what happened yesterday morning, and I'll definitely be watching closely in case it was really an issue that just cleared on its own, but I'm thinking it might have been a combination of user error and paranoia that led me to think something was wrong. Sorry if I raised flags for what might end up being a non-issue...

Randy

Here is the power board.

http://img146.imageshack.us/my.php?image=powerpq7.jpg

Not long before the BGLOD issue emerged, I had started noticing subtle but intermittent wavy lines on the HDMI input. After doing the "BGLOD switch fix", the wavy lines grew much worse. I think the old theory was that the underlying cause is weakening SMT cap bonds. Pulling out the electrical chassis probably broke a few more solder bonds.

Has anyone had HDMI input wavy lines and successfully fixed them via cap replacements? (tbully -- I was looking at your post #5364, but it looks like you were fixing wavy lines for the component input).

p.s. I also saw a new strange effect during our last movie. Wide fuzzy purplish vertical bars appeared during the dark scenes. The issue lasted for about 15 minutes (1 hr into the movie) -- and then it disappeared. I snapped a picture with my cell phone. I'll post it later so we can keep growing our wonderful archive of Mitsu issues.

noplasma,
I have wide white/purplish vertical bars made up of light colored pixels during dark scenes. It gets worse each time I watch the TV now. Just another sign of another problem cropping up.

All,
I have been doing a lot of research on the problems with the Mitsubishi DLP TV sets. Looks like very shortly we will all have non functioning TVs. The Home Theater Shack (http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/mitsubishi/11045-mitsubishi-v26-chassis-1st-gen-dlp-capacitor-failures.html) has a terrific thread that clearly places the problems we are experiencing on the capacitors. They concluded that the problem is more deep seated than replacing a few capacitors, but more like replacing hundreds! The issues stems from using poor quality capacitors throughout the boards. In some cases the boards become warm (or hot) and lead to premature failure of the caps (as tbully reported). To do a proper rebuild one would have to replace all the caps with better quality and higher temperature ratings. I suspect the rebuilt boards that Mitsubishi provide don't do this and is one of main reasons we read of so many failures after the set comes back from the shop.

So what do we do?

Have an authorized Mitsubishi service center attempt to repair it.
Class action law suit (http://forums.cnet.com/5208-7596_102-0.html?forumID=60&threadID=257865&start=0&tag=forum-w;forums06).
Try to repair the set yourself.
Plead with Mitsubishi to give you a break on parts and labor since it is a known problem with the chassis.
Put the set on the curb.
Give the set to a (soon to be ex) friend.
Donate the set to a charity and take a tax write off.
Buy another brand of TV.
Never buy a Mitsubishi product.

...

So what do we do?

...
Class action law suit (http://forums.cnet.com/5208-7596_102-0.html?forumID=60&threadID=257865&start=0&tag=forum-w;forums06).
...


Anyone know what happened with the suit? I don't think I could join because my 62525 is still working, knock on wood.

Attached are some photos of the "purple bar" issue.

So what do we do?

Have an authorized Mitsubishi service center attempt to repair it.
Class action law suit (http://forums.cnet.com/5208-7596_102-0.html?forumID=60&threadID=257865&start=0&tag=forum-w;forums06).
Try to repair the set yourself.
Plead with Mitsubishi to give you a break on parts and labor since it is a known problem with the chassis.
Put the set on the curb.
Give the set to a (soon to be ex) friend.
Donate the set to a charity and take a tax write off.
Buy another brand of TV.
Never buy a Mitsubishi product.


My current thinking is to replace the 1000 uFs on the DM and power boards. (So far, all I've done is replace the two power board 3300 uF's and the FMT 1000 uFs.) And while I'm in there, I'm going to replace the DM SMT's that tbully identified (I've got wavy lines on the HDMI and A/V inputs, but not the antenna input).

I'd like to order parts soon if possible... tbully, could you provide a quick summary of what parts you believe must be replaced to 'cool down the board'?

Odds are that I'll probably screw up the SMT solderings. The way I look at it is that the TV is a probably a lost cause anyway, so I'll let it be my playground for a little. If I screw up the board, not much lost. If I fix the wavy lines (and purple bars??) by replacing some of these caps, maybe I'll get a little more life out of it.

I will definitely not buy a mits electronics product ever again, although it sounds like RPTV's will become obsolete soon anyway.

For the SMT cap soldering, this page has some good tips:

http://curiousinventor.com/guides/Surface_Mount_Soldering/Resistor

It looks like this can be done with a standard soldering iron (no hot air necessary). I may go ahead and get this "starter kit":

http://curiousinventor.com/store/product/101

My current thinking is to replace the 1000 uFs on the DM and power boards. (So far, all I've done is replace the two power board 3300 uF's and the FMT 1000 uFs.) And while I'm in there, I'm going to replace the DM SMT's that tbully identified (I've got wavy lines on the HDMI and A/V inputs, but not the antenna input).

I've got pretty much the exact same symptoms on a WD-52525. Shows up on HDMI and component inputs but not on the antenna. Mine also shows up only on the primary device. If I do PIP, the second device/input looks perfect, no matter what mode I have it in (side-by-side vs. traditional PIP).

I have replaced all of the 1000uF caps that I could fine in the electronics chassis (12 total, IIRC). That didn't seem to help, but doesn't mean it won't help you.

I've never had the blinking light issue--just the image problems.

I'm in wait and see mode right now with all these threads here and on another board because I'm not really sure what to do next. I'm definitely willing to get my hands dirty and tinker, but I just don't have any way to know what parts could be the problem here.

Well, my chassis rebuild came back from Mits (after 8 weeks) and was installed on Friday. Lots of stickers and scribbled "ok's" on the chassis. It left my house without the wiring (the previous tech disconnected everything from the boards, because he already had the chassis open to replace the failed radial electrolytic caps, but the chassis came back with new wiring). After initial install, the chassis fan wasn't running (I noticed this before the technician did, not hearing the fan on power, he was waiting for the boot up, and it did.) We found that both wires to the fan were severed (I'm not sure if it was the tech's fault or if it was Mits.) He fixed that, and got the fan running, but ultimately he had to leave after 3 hours, with an error code 35 on the set after running for about four or five minutes. (I looked it up after finding the service manual, its Chassis Fan Failure which probably means the temp sensing resistor inside the chassis has failed. Ugh).

The set has been down for three months officially, and longer than that when the BGLOD first became evident. The techs have been by four times, and have to come back to at least two more times, so I think I'm going to force the issue with the warranty company. I think I'm due a new set.

Well after searching and searching I found this thread and read through most of it. I purchased my WD-62825 January 2004. This week I noticed the purple bars. Any ideas if Mitsubishi is willing to fix this problem after the warranty is up?

Mits asked for a copy of the sales receipt. They know the model number of the TV and they know it is still under warranty. I can't help but to think that the monetary aspect of the TV (i.e. what I paid 4 years ago) is going to have some sort of factor in what they are going to offer me....at least I hope so. $4,500.00 goes a long way in today's TV market.

Well after searching and searching I found this thread and read through most of it. I purchased my WD-62825 January 2004. This week I noticed the purple bars. Any ideas if Mitsubishi is willing to fix this problem after the warranty is up?

It's definitely worth a shot. I think I've seen several people post on here that they've had some luck getting Mits to cover repair costs post-warranty.

I ordered a bunch of SMT caps from Mouser yesterday. I'll post on here whether or not my replacements help with the purple bar & wavy line problems. If replacing the DM cluster that tbully identified doesn't do it, I may try the freeze spray approach to identify other targets.

tbully -- how did you decide which SMT caps to replace? Did you make measurements on the parts in situ?

I've just had a rebuilt chassis put into my 62725. So, the set is working now, having previously suffered from the BLGOD. Buuuut, the TV is having a couple of issues that have me scratching my head:

1. The display is exhibiting a greenish color cast.
2. The "color temp" video control doesn't seem to be functional. I distinctly remember that when you switch the color temp setting from low to medium or high, you could easily see the set get cooler or warmer, depending on what you set it to. Anyway, there's no perceptible visual difference among the three temp settings.

Any ideas on the seeming lack of color temp setting functionality? The lamp is almost four years old now. Would the age of the lamp have an effect on the color temp setting? I would think that an old bulb would only effect the brightness and/or contrast of the set.

My main concern is about the overall color settings now that the rebuilt chassis is installed. Like I said, the set is suffering from an overall bluish green cast on all inputs, including HDMI. I've discovered that all of the user color settings, including the "Perfect Color" settings are at factory settings. I'm concerned that the service menu color and grayscale adjustments have been reset. Is it logical that those service menu adjustments would be gone after receiving a rebuilt chassis?

Thanks for any advice...:)

I've just had a rebuilt chassis put into my 62725. So, the set is working now, having previously suffered from the BLGOD. Buuuut, the TV is having a couple of issues that have me scratching my head:

1. The display is exhibiting a greenish color cast.
2. The "color temp" video control doesn't seem to be functional. I distinctly remember that when you switch the color temp setting from low to medium or high, you could easily see the set get cooler or warmer, depending on what you set it to. Anyway, there's no perceptible visual difference among the three temp settings.

Any ideas on the seeming lack of color temp setting functionality? The lamp is almost four years old now. Would the age of the lamp have an effect on the color temp setting? I would think that an old bulb would only effect the brightness and/or contrast of the set.

My main concern is about the overall color settings now that the rebuilt chassis is installed. Like I said, the set is suffering from an overall bluish green cast on all inputs, including HDMI. I've discovered that all of the user color settings, including the "Perfect Color" settings are at factory settings. I'm concerned that the service menu color and grayscale adjustments have been reset. Is it logical that those service menu adjustments would be gone after receiving a rebuilt chassis?

Thanks for any advice...:)
Check to see if Auto Color is checked. If it is, uncheck it and see if that helps.

Well, I have no video at all on my TV now, so I guess the other morning wasn't my imagination. I hope they choose to go the same route with mine that they are on yours, Dub...

Randy

Well, I have no video at all on my TV now, so I guess the other morning wasn't my imagination. I hope they choose to go the same route with mine that they are on yours, Dub...

Randy

Damn Randy, that sucks. I will let you know what Mits decides to do with my situation. Might be able to use it to your advantage. I should hear back from them on Tues. or Wed.

http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/1970/caps1ww1.jpg

Lee, Thank You!

I'll get these caps on their way asap.

TBully- Where did you end up ordering these caps from? Do you still have the part numbers?

Thanks

http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/1970/caps1ww1.jpg



TBully- Where did you end up ordering these caps from? Do you still have the part numbers?

Thanks

Hi Lee-

Here is my order (screen shot) which (I think) included my first shot at replacing the SMTs. This was when I was attacking the original GBLOD issue AND the noise on ALL inputs, including HDMI, when the set was first fired up from being unplugged.

It's definitely worth a shot. I think I've seen several people post on here that they've had some luck getting Mits to cover repair costs post-warranty.

I ordered a bunch of SMT caps from Mouser yesterday. I'll post on here whether or not my replacements help with the purple bar & wavy line problems. If replacing the DM cluster that tbully identified doesn't do it, I may try the freeze spray approach to identify other targets.

tbully -- how did you decide which SMT caps to replace? Did you make measurements on the parts in situ?

Yep - freeze spray and a hairdryer the first time. I didn't have it at the shop and therefore didn't have all the fun toys to troubleshoot. I knew it was thermal anyway because it would clear up after running a while. BTW - This was when I was troubleshooting this noise on ALL inputs, including HDMI.

The second time was with scopes looking for noise and ESR meters to check the state of caps while in circuit. We found what was causing the GBLOD and the VGA (and component?) issues but randomly searching throughout the board, we found SEVERAL caps at or below their tolerances and chose to replace almost ALL caps and even a few more on the DM side.

We did the work in two phases. First was to get the set to boot. Afterwards we decided to track the VGA problem (because we didn't have a signal source for component at the time). While fixing the VGA problem, we implicitly fixed the Component issue as well! :D

I still owe a write-up. I have all the pictures now. I just need to find time (hopefully today) to edit them and send.

All of this could have been SO much easier (like a 20 minute repair) if Mits would just relase THE DAMN SCHEMATIC! The repair isn't for the faint of heart and board damage is likely if you're not experienced and careful. However, it's rewarding and certainly possible. (obviously)

we found SEVERAL caps at or below their tolerances and chose to replace almost ALL caps and even a few more on the DM side.

By "almost all caps", you're referring to the FMT board right?

Also, when you said that you saw wavy lines on all inputs, did that include the antenna input? I believe we're getting the lines on all inputs right now except antenna.

By "almost all caps", you're referring to the FMT board right?

Also, when you said that you saw wavy lines on all inputs, did that include the antenna input? I believe we're getting the lines on all inputs right now except antenna.


No. "Almost all caps" on the FMT board were replaced.

The earlier (Feb '08) issue was wavy lines on all inputs before warmup (after loss of AC for an extended period). I did not check the tuner so I guess "all inputs" may be a bit misleading. This issue was fixed by replacing the caps on the DM board. I found the old attachment and resposted to this response. The smaller circle are the caps I changed, the larger circle is where all the "suspects" were.

Here are some other posts that may help remind people:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12736094#post12736094

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12947846#post12947846

Thanks TBully. I agree.... There are MANY caps that are suspect on both boards. I picked up another 52725 from craigslist for $200 with the BGLOG. I was thinking format board but I swapped boards and narrowed it down to the DM board. I replaced the 4 1000 uf caps but it didn't fix it. I ordered an ESR meter so that will be here later in the week. I am going to order a **** load of caps and do what you did. Just start replacing. Hopfully the ESR meter can point me to some bad ones too.
Looking at some of the specs on these caps (even the ones you ordered for the DM board fix) the lifetime is 1000 Hrs @ 105°C. I have seen some around 2000 hours also. So I am not surprised at all that these caps are failing. Esp the ones that are hot 24/7.
Do you have the part numbers for all the caps you replaced on this last go around? If you do that would be great. If that is going to be in your writeup then I will wait patiently. What is your best technique for removing these caps? A soldering iron on both sides or heating and prying one side at a time? Thanks again......

Thanks TBully. I agree.... There are MANY caps that are suspect on both boards. I picked up another 52725 from craigslist for $200 with the BGLOG. I was thinking format board but I swapped boards and narrowed it down to the DM board. I replaced the 4 1000 uf caps but it didn't fix it. I ordered an ESR meter so that will be here later in the week. I am going to order a **** load of caps and do what you did. Just start replacing. Hopfully the ESR meter can point me to some bad ones too.
Looking at some of the specs on these caps (even the ones you ordered for the DM board fix) the lifetime is 1000 Hrs @ 105°C. I have seen some around 2000 hours also. So I am not surprised at all that these caps are failing. Esp the ones that are hot 24/7.
Do you have the part numbers for all the caps you replaced on this last go around? If you do that would be great. If that is going to be in your writeup then I will wait patiently. What is your best technique for removing these caps? A soldering iron on both sides or heating and prying one side at a time? Thanks again......

The "two iron" trick is best but you can also use one and carefully lift a side at a time (not too high). I think noplasma had a couple good links today but I haven't checked them yet.

Another interesting find about thg GBLOD being on the DM board. I wonder if that means mine will fail again soon! :-) I'm confident in my fix because I could see the mess on the scope but it makes me wonder a bit......



I do not have the parts list for my latest work. :-( I simply walked over to the wall of parts and grabbed what I needed so we didn't keep track. I'm very sorry about that.

Is there a moderator around that'll let me post more than 500KB?

My presentation is about 1.7 MB.

So what do we do?

Have an authorized Mitsubishi service center attempt to repair it.
Class action law suit (http://forums.cnet.com/5208-7596_102-0.html?forumID=60&threadID=257865&start=0&tag=forum-w;forums06).
Try to repair the set yourself.
Plead with Mitsubishi to give you a break on parts and labor since it is a known problem with the chassis.
Put the set on the curb.
Give the set to a (soon to be ex) friend.
Donate the set to a charity and take a tax write off.
Buy another brand of TV.
Never buy a Mitsubishi product.


I chose 6, 8 and 9.:mad:

Well, my turn has come up. I got a replacement bulb (old one still worked fine, but I thought I'd replace it under warranty and keep it as a backup), and after installing it, I'm now where many have been.

TV has been without ac power for about one week. Put new bulb in, tv powers on, I get audio but no pic. Lamp light is orange, and I figure the tv is asking if I've replaced the bulb. I press 'enter' for 'yes', seconds later the tv shuts itself off and lamp light turns red. Consequent power ups result in tv doing nothing at all. Oh, and trying the reset switch results in the BGLOD. I had a suspicion I'd be in this situation if I replaced the bulb, but I had to take a chance to make sure the new bulb was actually good.

So, what is it about replacing the bulb that leads to all of the known problems to show themselves? I've lost power a couple of times recently, but the tv would still power up normally. And why does the tv timeout successfully after removal of ac power, but not so when using the reset switch? Ah, the mysteries of this line of tvs.

I don't know what I'm going to do about the extended warranty service. I'm not the type that will tolerate what many here have endured, and I have more confidence that I can fix it completely (thanks to TBully) before Mits supplies a working chassis. It will all come down to the impression I get from the repair folks who show up. Then there's the gamble of maybe ending up with a replacement if it is unfixable, but I don't know what Philllips' (my extended warranty company) terms are for offering that.

Well, my turn has come up. I got a replacement bulb (old one still worked fine, but I thought I'd replace it under warranty and keep it as a backup), and after installing it, I'm now where many have been.

TV has been without ac power for about one week. Put new bulb in, tv powers on, I get audio but no pic. Lamp light is orange, and I figure the tv is asking if I've replaced the bulb. I press 'enter' for 'yes', seconds later the tv shuts itself off and lamp light turns red. Consequent power ups result in tv doing nothing at all. Oh, and trying the reset switch results in the BGLOD. I had a suspicion I'd be in this situation if I replaced the bulb, but I had to take a chance to make sure the new bulb was actually good.

So, what is it about replacing the bulb that leads to all of the known problems to show themselves? I've lost power a couple of times recently, but the tv would still power up normally. And why does the tv timeout successfully after removal of ac power, but not so when using the reset switch? Ah, the mysteries of this line of tvs.

I don't know what I'm going to do about the extended warranty service. I'm not the type that will tolerate what many here have endured, and I have more confidence that I can fix it completely (thanks to TBully) before Mits supplies a working chassis. It will all come down to the impression I get from the repair folks who show up. Then there's the gamble of maybe ending up with a replacement if it is unfixable, but I don't know what Philllips' (my extended warranty company) terms are for offering that.

Garcia - strange you got the orange light after replacing the bulb. You may want to make sure the contacts, which the bulb seats in to, didn't fall through the back when sliding in the new assembly. I've heard of this happening to people several times.

Another cause is the bad caps on the PWB which has been documented a few times here and elsewhere on the net.

I have my writeup complete but I'm trying to get permission from a moderator to post it. It's larger than the 500KB limit. I really don't want to use one of those file sharer sites.

Well, my turn has come up. I got a replacement bulb (old one still worked fine, but I thought I'd replace it under warranty and keep it as a backup), and after installing it, I'm now where many have been.

TV has been without ac power for about one week. Put new bulb in, tv powers on, I get audio but no pic. Lamp light is orange, and I figure the tv is asking if I've replaced the bulb. I press 'enter' for 'yes', seconds later the tv shuts itself off and lamp light turns red. Consequent power ups result in tv doing nothing at all. Oh, and trying the reset switch results in the BGLOD. I had a suspicion I'd be in this situation if I replaced the bulb, but I had to take a chance to make sure the new bulb was actually good.

So, what is it about replacing the bulb that leads to all of the known problems to show themselves? I've lost power a couple of times recently, but the tv would still power up normally. And why does the tv timeout successfully after removal of ac power, but not so when using the reset switch? Ah, the mysteries of this line of tvs.

I don't know what I'm going to do about the extended warranty service. I'm not the type that will tolerate what many here have endured, and I have more confidence that I can fix it completely (thanks to TBully) before Mits supplies a working chassis. It will all come down to the impression I get from the repair folks who show up. Then there's the gamble of maybe ending up with a replacement if it is unfixable, but I don't know what Philllips' (my extended warranty company) terms are for offering that.

Makes me scared to change the bulb. I've now had the new bulb for over a year and haven't replaced it because of all the horror stories. I'm still using the original bulb because it seems to work fine.

The WD-52525 finally died over the weekend. When I plug in the set the green lights flash and there are audible pops through the speakers. I fixed the set once using the information I found in this very helpful (but depressing) thread but this time I threw in the towel.

I purchased a Samsung LT52A650 to replace the Mitsu. I hope the Sammy, which cost about half of what the Mitsu cost me, lasts longer than the measly 4.5 years I got out of the Mitsu. I was depressed to find that it cost about $850/year to watch that damn thing.

Anyone know what I can do with the Mitsu, other than simply throw it to the curb on bulk trash day?

The WD-52525 finally died over the weekend. When I plug in the set the green lights flash and there are audible pops through the speakers. I fixed the set once using the information I found in this very helpful (but depressing) thread but this time I threw in the towel.

I purchased a Samsung LT52A650 to replace the Mitsu. I hope the Sammy, which cost about half of what the Mitsu cost me, lasts longer than the measly 4.5 years I got out of the Mitsu. I was depressed to find that it cost about $850/year to watch that damn thing.

Anyone know what I can do with the Mitsu, other than simply throw it to the curb on bulk trash day?

Offer it up to a local who might want it for spare parts? I know I'd take one for free if there were one in my area.

"The Warranty Group" are apparently looking at comparable TVs instead of rebuilding my chassis. I don't quite know what my best course of action would be at this stage. They are looking at "comparable models" at this point. If/when I get model nos. I'll post them -- but until then, has anyone had a similar experience lately with this particular company (I'm kinda looking out for what to expect -- lowballing etc.). Any advice appreciated, thanks.

SD

Garcia - strange you got the orange light after replacing the bulb. You may want to make sure the contacts, which the bulb seats in to, didn't fall through the back when sliding in the new assembly. I've heard of this happening to people several times.

Another cause is the bad caps on the PWB which has been documented a few times here and elsewhere on the net.

I have my writeup complete but I'm trying to get permission from a moderator to post it. It's larger than the 500KB limit. I really don't want to use one of those file sharer sites.

I think the firmware fine-tuned the sequence for activating the orange light. IME, with the latest, once it determines that the orange light should be on (past 5000 hours of present bulb life), it illuminates it as part of the power on sequence (after each interruption of power).

I checked the connector before I installed the new bulb, and it seemed solidly in place. After the set failed to light the bulb after the first power up, and the tv shut itself down, I removed ac power and checked the connector again. It was still fine. After that, it seems things got worse so I didn't mess with it anymore.

It's not the first report of someone having these symptoms after replacing the bulb. It's just funny to me that somehow a new bulb appears to be more stressing.

It was bound to fail sooner or later. The wavy lines on component input were getting worse, so I figured things were deteriorating.

Makes me scared to change the bulb. I've now had the new bulb for over a year and haven't replaced it because of all the horror stories. I'm still using the original bulb because it seems to work fine.

I don't blame you one bit. I held off on even getting the replacement bulb because the original was still working fine. But when I called to inquire if I was eligible since the tv was still working fine, she said they'd have someone ship one to me. Once I got the new one, I figured I better make sure it's good (especially after the first one I received was actually severely cracked).
Then I figured I'd just keep the original as an emergency backup.

If it weren't a minor pain in the arse to replace the re-install in an existing housing, I might be tempted to put the old one back and see what it does. But I know it's good, so I'll wait to see what the repair people actually try to do to fix the tv.

Any idea how many hours you have on your bulb? My tv alerted my when I passed the 5000 hour mark. I was tiring of seeing the orange indicator all the time.

I don't blame you one bit. I held off on even getting the replacement bulb because the original was still working fine. But when I called to inquire if I was eligible since the tv was still working fine, she said they'd have someone ship one to me. Once I got the new one, I figured I better make sure it's good (especially after the first one I received was actually severely cracked).
Then I figured I'd just keep the original as an emergency backup.

If it weren't a minor pain in the arse to replace the re-install in an existing housing, I might be tempted to put the old one back and see what it does. But I know it's good, so I'll wait to see what the repair people actually try to do to fix the tv.

Any idea how many hours you have on your bulb? My tv alerted my when I passed the 5000 hour mark. I was tiring of seeing the orange indicator all the time.

I don't know for sure because the bulb usage got reset when they changed out my DM board.

Just thought I would share the flickering pixel problem I have. You can see them all pretty well using displaymate. Streaks of flickering white pixels. No way in hell this is a software problem, but the local tech thinks I need to upgrade. I should be getting a 256MB CF card tomorrow to try it out. But I am sure I'll be calling the shop back and telling him the noise is still there. Other than this, the set is working beautifully since all my boards were replaced.

http://members.cox.net/jkernen/pictures/mini-IMG_0589.JPG

That looks like the problem I have. Capacitor problem?

What is your best technique for removing these caps? A soldering iron on both sides or heating and prying one side at a time? Thanks again......

I just made the investment in one of these:

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-8230

They offer serveral sizes of extra 'tips' as well. With source code '810D18', it's only $20. I figure I'll use it sooner or later :)

bg

Cool, good find. Thanks....... I just ordered it and 3 tips.
I have a pretty accurate count and part number for all the SMD caps on the format and DM boards. I will post it when I get home. I found them all at Mouser.
Actually.... Here is my Mouser order. In most cases I ordered double of what is on the format and DM boards. (I have 3 52725 tv's and 1 62825)

Part # 661-ELXY160ELL681MJ2 are 680uF radial caps (The suggested replacement for the 1000uF caps on the DM and Format)

Last night while watching tv the screen swithced to blue screen. I could still access the on screen menus but no signal from the cable. Switched to xbox which is coming through a different input and same issue, just blue screen.

I tried to turn the tv on a few times today and same issue. However tonight I just get a solid red light and no screen at all.

My lamp was last changed a few months ago and that was the last time anything had been done to my set. I doubt it's the lamp since my past lamps lasted over a year each.

I held device & menu and got 3 blinks then 4 blinks, I assume that means error 34?

I'm not technical enough to troubleshoot & repair this myself. If I hire someone to fix it I'm sure it will cost hundreds. I bought it in 2004 and my 4 year extended warranty ran out 3 months ago.

I'm torn, spend a bunch of money to get this fixed or just go invest in a new set and donate the old tv? Or does anyone have another good idea that I'm missing.

Thanks in advance for the advice.

"The Warranty Group" are apparently looking at comparable TVs instead of rebuilding my chassis. I don't quite know what my best course of action would be at this stage. They are looking at "comparable models" at this point. If/when I get model nos. I'll post them -- but until then, has anyone had a similar experience lately with this particular company (I'm kinda looking out for what to expect -- lowballing etc.). Any advice appreciated, thanks.

SD
SD_GR: I've also got coverage through The Warranty Group. Did you buy the TV/Warranty from Tweeter? My TV has been worked on twice, and after the chassis was replaced last week, the TV is still having issues. I'm now trying to reach The Warranty Group for follow up service. I've called after work twice now (but during their business hours), but only get a voicemail. Anyway, I'll be interested in hearing about your experience with The Warranty Group. Good luck.

Regarding "The Warranty Group"

I've always had no problem getting through to them but I've always called during the morning.

They've stated emphatically that they will not repair my set; this to me at least implies that they have been less than thrilled with their part (costs, repeat costs, other expenses etc.) of the "remove chassis, send to Mitsu, wait, replace chassis" exercise.

They offered another Mitsu DLP set, a 60" model from the current lineup. I have to confess, I love the picture on Mitsu DLPs but I am reluctant to get another of their sets, particularly since the existing extended warranty becomes void once either a new set is accepted or a check is accepted.

I'm considering moving on to another technology, and am trying to decide what -- and from whom. Oh -- and no, I didn't purchase via Tweeter (RIP). I went with a local smaller store here in California.

I'm torn, spend a bunch of money to get this fixed or just go invest in a new set and donate the old tv? Or does anyone have another good idea that I'm missing.

I don't think it's worth it to pay someone to fix it. Invest your money in a new set. I think new 60" DLP's run about $1500 and flat panels are getting pretty cheap too. Fixing your xx525 will probably cost $500-$1000 and odds are you'll have another problem crop up before too long.

My guess is that it'll only be the hobbyists among us that keep these things alive. I just ordered the SMT soldering iron and a bunch of caps from mouser (thanks garciab and lee) and am looking forward to working on the set for the fun of it. I plan to replace the caps in clusters and will see if I can narrow down the source of my purple bar issue.

Hell, maybe I'll even buy an oscilloscope off of craigslist/ebay if I can find a cheap used one.

Nice, please keep us posted on your repairs. The tv techs will come out today to see what's wrong with my tv. As if they don't know by now. :) I don't know what's involved in getting a new chassis, but if it's just replacing the three main boards, I'll insist that they leave the set and come back with three replacement boards. If they refuse, I think I'll refuse service and do the repairs myself (yea, and probably void my extended warranty). It doesn't sound like a replacement chassis guarantees a set that works as well as Tbully's results, so I'll take that route.

Would you believe that a 60" Mits DLP sells for $1k? And a 65" for $1.1k? Those sure are tempting, but I don't know how I'd dispose of the 62" monster. And I like to tinker too.

Does anyone know of a good way to post a file bigger than 500kb to this forum? My writeup is 1.7mb. I have several PMs asking for emails but I don't have enough time in the day to answer all of them. :-)

Does anyone know of a good way to post a file bigger than 500kb to this forum? My writeup is 1.7mb. I have several PMs asking for emails but I don't have enough time in the day to answer all of them. :-)

If you e-mail it to me I can post it. I found http://www.box.net and signed up a free account. Or you can sign up. It only takes a couple minutes.

Space=1Gig
File Size=25meg.
Bandwidth=10Gig/mo

Would you believe that a 60" Mits DLP sells for $1k? And a 65" for $1.1k? Those sure are tempting, but I don't know how I'd dispose of the 62" monster. And I like to tinker too.

Delar said he broke his into many smaller pieces and threw it out in the trash. I wonder how much work that was and what tools he used.

These are my experiences noted as best as I can. If you share, please share with credit.

I hope everyone has powerpoint. I realized after I was complete that I possibly made a bad assumption.

Good luck and tread lightly with the SMT stuff......


http://www.box.net/shared/c68201zfp2

These are my experiences noted as best as I can. If you share, please share with credit.

I hope everyone has powerpoint. I realized after I was complete that I possibly made a bad assumption.

Good luck and tread lightly with the SMT stuff......


http://www.box.net/shared/c68201zfp2


Thanks for all your work. It is much appreciated......

If people don't have powerpoint they can download a free powerpoint viewer here.
http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?FamilyID=428d5727-43ab-4f24-90b7-a94784af71a4&displaylang=en

These are my experiences noted as best as I can. If you share, please share with credit.

I hope everyone has powerpoint. I realized after I was complete that I possibly made a bad assumption.

Good luck and tread lightly with the SMT stuff......


http://www.box.net/shared/c68201zfp2

Don't have Powerpoint. Tried Powerpoint viewer. No joy.

I have OpenOffice.

Try this link for Power Point Viewer 2007 (http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?FamilyID=048dc840-14e1-467d-8dca-19d2a8fd7485&displaylang=en) which works with the file.

Don't have Powerpoint. Tried Powerpoint viewer. No joy.

I have OpenOffice.

Try this link for Power Point Viewer 2007 (http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?FamilyID=048dc840-14e1-467d-8dca-19d2a8fd7485&displaylang=en) which works with the file.

Good to hear. Sorry. I was thinking of the best way to make this portable without just posting pictures and text to a message board. It sounds like that would have been better. :rolleyes:

Regarding "The Warranty Group"


They offered another Mitsu DLP set, a 60" model from the current lineup. I have to confess, I love the picture on Mitsu DLPs but I am reluctant to get another of their sets, particularly since the existing extended warranty becomes void once either a new set is accepted or a check is accepted.


What size was your 725/525? Just curious because I haven't heard back from Mits or Frys about my replacement. I had the 62525 and would hope they at least offer me the 65".

If they offer me another Mits I am thinking it will probably be the 65736....but I will push for the 65835 Diamond Series.

Now if I don't have to stick with a Mits.....I haven't a clue to what I am going to get. Suggestions?

I got the 65835 replacement for my 62725 set. My god is it better!! Pluse they gave me A 5 year warranty.

I got the 65835 replacement for my 62725 set. My god is it better!! Pluse they gave me A 5 year warranty.

Now that is something I can live with. Who did you buy the set from? Did you deal with them or Mits for the replacement? Did they offer you the 65835 + warranty or did you have to fight for it?

Final question.....are you happy with it or would you rather have a different set?

I am more than happy. I called Mits and spoke very nice to them and gave them a list of problems and a list of parts that went in to it. I all so had the store get in touch with the MIT Rep for me and spoke with him.
Mit. customer service Rep. was very cool to deal with. He new of all the problems and saw I had them all. He said to me was ( Lets get you out of this first gen. peice of **** and put you into a 65736 TV) I was shocked!! So I called the Mit. rep for the store and told him I should get the 65835 because I spent so much More on my 725. He said I was right. So he got me the 65835 and said He got Mits to give me a 5 year warranty.
I have had this set now for about6 weeks and love every part of it.
I will say it blows a way my sony SXDR3000A that will go in the basement now for the kids to use.

I am more than happy. I called Mits and spoke very nice to them and gave them a list of problems and a list of parts that went in to it. I all so had the store get in touch with the MIT Rep for me and spoke with him.
Mit. customer service Rep. was very cool to deal with. He new of all the problems and saw I had them all. He said to me was ( Lets get you out of this first gen. peice of **** and put you into a 65736 TV) I was shocked!! So I called the Mit. rep for the store and told him I should get the 65835 because I spent so much More on my 725. He said I was right. So he got me the 65835 and said He got Mits to give me a 5 year warranty.
I have had this set now for about6 weeks and love every part of it.
I will say it blows a way my sony SXDR3000A that will go in the basement now for the kids to use.

I share the same thoughts you did....I just hope I am as successful as you were. Thank you for the confidence boost.

My set was the WD52715, thus 52".

I was looking at flat models the other day, and liked what I saw from the latest LCDs, but ultimately I found that the latest plasmas are very well priced and give a competent presentation. Short answer: Panasonic 50" plasma at this point. The viewing angles are better than the Mitsu DLP, the colours aren't as user-settable and there are some gamma snafus but overall I really like the picture. The sound isn't as good as the Mitsu, since the speakers are simply physically smaller. However, it turns on/off faster and is more like a "let's just turn this thing on and watch TV" set than the DLP was (wait to boot, wait to shut down, wait to restart etc.).

I share the same thoughts you did....I just hope I am as successful as you were. Thank you for the confidence boost.

Still looking forward to hearing how you get treated, Dub. I swung the HDMI cable from my Panny to my Mits the night before Goodman's was supposed to come out, and the $%@# thing was working again. Ugh. I canceled my service call and will now just hope for it to totally die, I guess....or I'll call immediately when it starts acting up again, anyway. So now I am just leaving the Panny in the floor in front of the Mits so I can move the cable if it bombs out again...ugh, again.

BTW, I like the 50" Panny plasma quite a bit, Dub...and they are extremely reasonable these days. They might be worth a look, depending on how much credit you have to play with if they go that route. Since Mits is involved, though, I'm pretty sure you'll have to go with a Mits replacement...

Randy

Still looking forward to hearing how you get treated, Dub. I swung the HDMI cable from my Panny to my Mits the night before Goodman's was supposed to come out, and the $%@# thing was working again. Ugh. I canceled my service call and will now just hope for it to totally die, I guess....or I'll call immediately when it starts acting up again, anyway. So now I am just leaving the Panny in the floor in front of the Mits so I can move the cable if it bombs out again...ugh, again.

BTW, I like the 50" Panny plasma quite a bit, Dub...and they are extremely reasonable these days. They might be worth a look, depending on how much credit you have to play with if they go that route. Since Mits is involved, though, I'm pretty sure you'll have to go with a Mits replacement...

Randy
"Unfortunately" I need a 60"+ screen for my viewing pleasure (sit approx. 15 feet from the TV). That and I have an entertainment center that fits perfectly around my Mits. Speaking of which, I was both shocked and pleased to see that the 65" Mits TVs are the same width as the 62525. A new 65" Mits would slide perfectly into the existing gap of my entertainment center.

These are my experiences noted as best as I can. If you share, please share with credit.
http://www.box.net/shared/c68201zfp2

TBully, Great job!! You deserve a lot of credit for the time and effort you put into this. I hope the newcomers realize the value of what you have done for them.

Wish I still had mine just for the satisfaction of having it finally repaired! My 62725 was eventually replaced by Mits when I called them about the wavy lines I was starting to see on the third chassis. The chassis actually died (BGLOD) before the replacement showed up. Took about 3 weeks to talk them into giving me the 65835 instead of the 65736.

Even at that I feel like I have less of a TV than I originally purchased. Paid $3000 for the 725, another $1500 in repair attempts and ended up with the 835 that I could have purchased at the time for just over $2000. But I guess you have to give them some credit for "trying" to make things right. Set was 2 years old and I did not purchase an extended warranty. It's more than some manufacturers would do...

Well, the repair guys came and went. They brought a new bulb, but never installed it. I explained what I had experienced, and after they tried to power it on, they were convinced it was a problem with the color wheel. :) I explained to them what we all know, and not once did they acknowledge any of these well known cap problems. So I was convinced that they are still just board swappers for Mits. No thanks! It may seem dumb to some, but I wasn't about to go through the frustration that I'm sure will follow if I let them take my set away. Not even for a chance to get a free replacement. My sanity is worth more than an $1100 new set. Hey, we all have our quirks :) So, I will attempt to fix it myself, like a competant repair shop should be able to do by this point. Thanks to all the great folks on this forum, I'm sure I will succeed.

I am more than happy. I called Mits and spoke very nice to them and gave them a list of problems and a list of parts that went in to it. I all so had the store get in touch with the MIT Rep for me and spoke with him.
Mit. customer service Rep. was very cool to deal with. He new of all the problems and saw I had them all. He said to me was ( Lets get you out of this first gen. peice of **** and put you into a 65736 TV) I was shocked!! So I called the Mit. rep for the store and told him I should get the 65835 because I spent so much More on my 725. He said I was right. So he got me the 65835 and said He got Mits to give me a 5 year warranty.
I have had this set now for about6 weeks and love every part of it.
I will say it blows a way my sony SXDR3000A that will go in the basement now for the kids to use.

Congrats on the replacement. Can you please comment on the noise levels between the old and new. Is the new tv noticeably quieter? Just wondering.

My god it is much Quieter. I can not even hear it at all. I would all most say there is no fans that is how quiet it is.

Delar said he broke his into many smaller pieces and threw it out in the trash. I wonder how much work that was and what tools he used.

A couple of hours, some simple tools and a few beers is all. I disposed of it in that manner for two reasons. One, it was more convenient for me to dump it in the condo's dumpster than it was to haul off to the landfill intact. Two, for as far back as I can remember, I've been disassembling things out of curiosity, seeing what makes them tick. I still have the boards and light engine sitting here. I'm gonna trash them next week if nobody wants them (free + shipping).

I haven't replaced it yet. No TV for the last couple of months, and truth be told, I don't really miss it as several other hobbies have kept me occupied. But I'll probably get an LCD before the end of the year.

I'll take them and pay the shipping. Email or pm me and we will work it out.

These are my experiences noted as best as I can. If you share, please share with credit.

I hope everyone has powerpoint. I realized after I was complete that I possibly made a bad assumption.

Good luck and tread lightly with the SMT stuff....

Excellent write-up, thanks so much for doing that. As soon as the soldering tweezers arrive, I'm going to start with that DM cluster. I hope I don't destroy anything...

A couple of hours, some simple tools and a few beers is all. I disposed of it in that manner for two reasons. One, it was more convenient for me to dump it in the condo's dumpster than it was to haul off to the landfill intact. Two, for as far back as I can remember, I've been disassembling things out of curiosity, seeing what makes them tick. I still have the boards and light engine sitting here. I'm gonna trash them next week if nobody wants them (free + shipping).

I haven't replaced it yet. No TV for the last couple of months, and truth be told, I don't really miss it as several other hobbies have kept me occupied. But I'll probably get an LCD before the end of the year.

I'll take it if the other request falls through!

Excellent write-up, thanks so much for doing that. As soon as the soldering tweezers arrive, I'm going to start with that DM cluster. I hope I don't destroy anything...

I have a feeling you'll be fine. Let us know how it goes!

TBully, Great job!! You deserve a lot of credit for the time and effort you put into this. I hope the newcomers realize the value of what you have done for them.

Wish I still had mine just for the satisfaction of having it finally repaired! My 62725 was eventually replaced by Mits when I called them about the wavy lines I was starting to see on the third chassis. The chassis actually died (BGLOD) before the replacement showed up. Took about 3 weeks to talk them into giving me the 65835 instead of the 65736.

Even at that I feel like I have less of a TV than I originally purchased. Paid $3000 for the 725, another $1500 in repair attempts and ended up with the 835 that I could have purchased at the time for just over $2000. But I guess you have to give them some credit for "trying" to make things right. Set was 2 years old and I did not purchase an extended warranty. It's more than some manufacturers would do...

Thanks JoeC! I appreciate the note. I wish I could get yours for spare parts. :-)

Thanks JoeC! I appreciate the note. I wish I could get yours for spare parts. :-)


Would give it to you but Mits took it and the chassis is probably in somebodys set now?

TBULLY.... You Rock! I just spent 5 hours changing out caps on the format and DM boards on my downstairs 52725. It had the wavy lines on the component inputs so I was using the HDMI. Within the last week I started seeing lines on the HDMI and the purple bars like Noplasma. I changed out the majority of the same caps you changed out and a few others that tested bad with my ESR meter(Aprox 50 caps). I now have a "PERFECT" picture on the component inputs and HDMI. It fired up cold with no lines at all. I did pull up a couple pads with traces but fixed them. Some of those caps were a pain in the AZZ. I used all SMD's as replacements. I will post pics of all the caps I changed before I put it all back together. The soldering tweezers work ok as long as you keep them well tinned. A soldering iron is still needed to remove some.
Thanks again TBully. I owe you some beers.

Lee,

Did you upgrade caps to do a straight value swap? Just curious.

I'm just starting the process, only found 4 bulging caps. But I will replace them all as has been suggested. Just haven't researched enough to know whether better rated caps (temp, voltage) will be available in the same size.

Lee,

Did you upgrade caps to do a straight value swap? Just curious.

I'm just starting the process, only found 4 bulging caps. But I will replace them all as has been suggested. Just haven't researched enough to know whether better rated caps (temp, voltage) will be available in the same size.

I did swap out caps to the same voltage and capacitance. I went with 105DegC caps. I am not sure what the originals were. I posted what I ordered a few posts back. I do have more caps on order though. I missed a couple and I still need to do my 62825. Be aware there are a few bipolar caps on both boards. Majority of my bipolar caps were out of tolerance or bad.

I am thinking about leaving the shields off of the main chassis and only putting the fan back on. Has anyone tried this? It seems it would keep the boards a little cooler.
With all the bad caps on the format I wondering if it is heat, time, over voltage or all of the above that is killing them.

Lots of folks seem to think it is heat, but I doubt it. The temp just does not get that high in the chassis. It appears to me to be the same kinds of problems that Mits has seen in other products...bad batches of caps from their suppliers.

I thought the heat rating was ok myself; I can't imagine it gets that hot in their either. But I think they skimped on the voltage ratings/tolerances. I plan to upgrade that on parameter given a suitable replacement.

Lee, thanks for the info.

I did swap out caps to the same voltage and capacitance. I went with 105DegC caps. I am not sure what the originals were. I posted what I ordered a few posts back. I do have more caps on order though. I missed a couple and I still need to do my 62825. Be aware there are a few bipolar caps on both boards. Majority of my bipolar caps were out of tolerance or bad.

I am thinking about leaving the shields off of the main chassis and only putting the fan back on. Has anyone tried this? It seems it would keep the boards a little cooler.
With all the bad caps on the format I wondering if it is heat, time, over voltage or all of the above that is killing them.

Lee,

THIS IS GREAT. It's nice to see my work validated. At least I know I'm not crazy. Yes, the bipolars were all bad or close to it in my set. And, yes, this set does get that hot inside the cage. Many of the caps are only 85C. Remember, you don't have to be at 85C, just close to it to wear the caps down sooner. 2000 hours at (or near) rating isn't that long at all. Temp and voltage, especially after adding a little ripple from upstream caps going bad, are very close to the limits on most caps that I replaced.

Thanks for joining in the fun!

Guess it can't hurt to ask this here...my set decided to act up again last night, but this time it was right after I'd watched a recorded show from my TiVo. The video went away and I got the slightly 'glowing' screen that I'd seen that early morning awhile back. And again, pushing the power button has no effect beyond turning the power indicator off on the front panel. I called and got another appointment scheduled, but they can't come out until next Tuesday (barring a cancellation). I really don't want to do anything to take the set out of its current state so they can see it, but I am not sure if it is a good idea for the lamp to be engaged until they get here. I can definitely see that it is lit up through the vents in the back. Anybody have any thoughts on this?

Thanks,
Randy

Guess it can't hurt to ask this here...my set decided to act up again last night, but this time it was right after I'd watched a recorded show from my TiVo. The video went away and I got the slightly 'glowing' screen that I'd seen that early morning awhile back. And again, pushing the power button has no effect beyond turning the power indicator off on the front panel. I called and got another appointment scheduled, but they can't come out until next Tuesday (barring a cancellation). I really don't want to do anything to take the set out of its current state so they can see it, but I am not sure if it is a good idea for the lamp to be engaged until they get here. I can definitely see that it is lit up through the vents in the back. Anybody have any thoughts on this?

Thanks,
Randy

It all most sounds like the light engine is going out.

I just went through the DM and Format boards on my 62825. It had the GBLOD(switch fix), wavy lines on the analogs and was starting to get wavy lines on the HDMI. It is all good now on both analog and digital. I am seeing that the majority of failures are the 16volt, 35 volt and bipolar caps. I changed out "Every" 16 volt cap on the format for the 62825. Some were testing good with my ESR meter in circuit but out of tolerance when I took them out. I also noticed the ESR was low when they were hot and as the cap cooled it would go up significantly.

It all most sounds like the light engine is going out.

Could be...and the chassis was just 'rebuilt' by Mits...ugh. I'm mainly trying to determine if I should leave it in its current state or do something to turn the lamp off...but then it might decide to work again when the guys come for the service call...nothing is easy!


Randy

If you have a video camera take a video of it.

I just went through the DM and Format boards on my 62825. It had the GBLOD(switch fix), wavy lines on the analogs and was starting to get wavy lines on the HDMI. It is all good now on both analog and digital. I am seeing that the majority of failures are the 16volt, 35 volt and bipolar caps. I changed out "Every" 16 volt cap on the format for the 62825. Some were testing good with my ESR meter in circuit but out of tolerance when I took them out. I also noticed the ESR was low when they were hot and as the cap cooled it would go up significantly.

Exactly what we saw.....all 16's and 35's were suspect.

Also exactly what we saw....measure "suspect" in circuit but completely conked out once out of circuit (maybe because they are in parallel with each other?) We also noticed that the values swung wildly depending on temp.

Sounds like you started a new side job! :D

I am thinking about leaving the shields off of the main chassis and only putting the fan back on. Has anyone tried this? It seems it would keep the boards a little cooler.
With all the bad caps on the format I wondering if it is heat, time, over voltage or all of the above that is killing them.

I'm thinking the shields are there for EMI interference. Not sure it's a good idea to leave them off. I noticed the fan for the chassis blows in; not a good idea for a fan at the top of an assembly imo. If you could reverse its direction and find a way to route its flow out of the tv, it'd be better. Problem is I don't think there's room above the fan to do that. Just my thoughts.

now that my mits 62825 has gblod again (after just getting it back from light engine repair) I am looking at new sets... in particular the Sharp Aquos LC-65SE94U... any body have any comments as to this choice?
wife has a 42 inch Aquos that she just loves...
Thank you for all the help now and in the past
Hal

I'm thinking the shields are there for EMI interference. Not sure it's a good idea to leave them off. I noticed the fan for the chassis blows in; not a good idea for a fan at the top of an assembly imo. If you could reverse its direction and find a way to route its flow out of the tv, it'd be better. Problem is I don't think there's room above the fan to do that. Just my thoughts.

I have both my electrical chassis sitting on 5 gal buckets behind the tv and they seem to run fine without the shields. All the boards are within the same box so it isn't shielding each individual board.

I guess my only concern would be shorting something out.

I think I will put on the power supply shield on but leave the shield off the format This seems to be the board with the most failed caps and probably the least amount of airflow.

If I run into some interference problems I can put it back on.

Don't forget about polluting other receiving devices in/near your home. The shield is there to keep the set from 'radiating out' as well. I know the electronic monitor on one of my exercise machines would inject noise into my analog tv channels a while back. But after Feb.'09, it shouldn't be an issue. Would still be very interesting to see any longterm changes to the reliability of the set.

What's the spec interpretation for the few SM caps on the DM board that have a marking like: 220, JHA, 4N3? And which ones are you guys referring to as the 'bipolar' type?

One last ? The troublesome 16V and 35V are of the polarized electrolytic type, yes? The only obvious bad ones in my set are four of the 1000uF, 16V electrolytics (two DM, two Power Supply board).

I'm taking inventory now, and I will replace them all now. Just answering some questions in my mind while I wait :)

What's the spec interpretation for the few SM caps on the DM board that have a marking like: 220, JHA, 4N3? And which ones are you guys referring to as the 'bipolar' type?

One last ? The troublesome 16V and 35V are of the polarized electrolytic type, yes? The only obvious bad ones in my set are four of the 1000uF, 16V electrolytics (two DM, two Power Supply board).

I'm taking inventory now, and I will replace them all now. Just answering some questions in my mind while I wait :)

Some failed caps show no obvious signs of failure. In fact none of the SMD caps showed any visual signs of failure The 220 is the capacitance, I think the JHA refers to the physical size of the cap and the 4 in the 4N3 is probaby 4 volts and the N3 is some manufacture's code(lot#). I am not 100% sure though. Each manufacturer is a little different. Some represent a code for the temp rating.
You can go to Mouser and click on the data sheets of different manufacturers and see if you find something. http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?N=2203862+4294741774+4294401343

There are only a few Bi-polar(non Polarized) caps. The 62825 had more than the 52725. There were around 7 for the 52725. I think all of them were 16v but different capacitance and sizes.

So to answer your question.... Both types were bad.
A Bipolar SMD cap doesn't have black shaded part on top of the cap. Here is a pic.

Thanks again for the info Lee. Just making sure my assumptions were right, and we're in line here.

Inventory for my 62725 shows about 200 caps for all three boards. Yikes!

Well, it's been a while since I've been on this forum. WD-62725 purchased in October 2004. in Sep '07, I had my E2P board replaced. This August, my VGA connection started giving a picture with horizontal lines or waves. My extended warranty servicer sent it to Mits' shop, and after 2 months I got it back. The work order said they replaced a total of 47 caps of three types. No wavy lines, but now I have a really crappy VGA picture with "sparkles". Back to the extended warranty servicer who will see if they have to send it back to Mits.

The reason I wish I read this forum a few days ago is that when I had the tv back for a week, I watched one dvd. I had the GBLOD three times during the dvd playback, but didn't think anything of it. I will call the servicer and let him know.

Any suggestions on what I should do? I guess if the servicer resolves the problem I'm stuck with the set and will have to wait until it fails again.

Since Mits was so nice to let us beta test their DLP design for them I think they should let us do the same with the A90 series.

Congratulations to any one who gets a new set out of them. Last year whan I called I was basicly told to go pound sand.

Based on what we now know and what mits should have known for somw time now. They sold us sets with design flaws. Is the only thing keeping them from getting sued the small population of owners?

My 52525 (purchased Dec 04, no extended warranty) suffers from the wavy line problem and the HDMI input no longer works. I had previously had some problems with the set and kept all of the records of my repair expenditures. I faxed this information to Mitsubishi and at the same time opened a complaint with the BBB. Mits responded stating I need to get the set diagnosed and they would then discuss possible compensation. I refused to pay for the diagnosis and they are actually sending someone out to look at the set on their dime. We'll see where this goes after they get the repair estimate from the service company...

That sounds like they might be starting to get a clue. Best of luck and let us know how it turns out.


My 52525 (purchased Dec 04, no extended warranty) suffers from the wavy line problem and the HDMI input no longer works. I had previously had some problems with the set and kept all of the records of my repair expenditures. I faxed this information to Mitsubishi and at the same time opened a complaint with the BBB. Mits responded stating I need to get the set diagnosed and they would then discuss possible compensation. I refused to pay for the diagnosis and they are actually sending someone out to look at the set on their dime. We'll see where this goes after they get the repair estimate from the service company...

My 52525 (purchased Dec 04, no extended warranty) suffers from the wavy line problem and the HDMI input no longer works. I had previously had some problems with the set and kept all of the records of my repair expenditures. I faxed this information to Mitsubishi and at the same time opened a complaint with the BBB. Mits responded stating I need to get the set diagnosed and they would then discuss possible compensation. I refused to pay for the diagnosis and they are actually sending someone out to look at the set on their dime. We'll see where this goes after they get the repair estimate from the service company...

We've had several instances where companies were very unresponsive until after we posted a BBB complaint. That's the way to go when calling Customer Service is a dead-end.

Hello All,
New to this forum. I just inherited RCarlton's WD-62725 with the purple pixel problem. I'm gearing up to do the repair myself and am trying to gather as much information as I can so i can be as prepaired as I can once I start. I have A few questions.

1. Does anyone have a per-board list of the caps I need to purchase?

2. If not, are the existing caps marked with their values so i can make a list myself? (and also make replacement easier)

3. Do you suggest using Low Impedance Caps in place of Standard Electrolytic caps?

Leeisfishing-
A few posts back you mentioned that you would post photos of your work. I would be very interested in seeing those. It sounds like my set has the same problems that yours had.

Leeisfishing-
A few posts back you mentioned that you would post photos of your work. I would be very interested in seeing those. It sounds like my set has the same problems that yours had.

I have the pics on my camera. I will upload them tonight. After I went through the DM and format boards on my 62825 I went back and changed out a few more caps on my 52725.

I will look foward to seeing those. --Thanks

Here are pics of my 52725 format and DM boards. I swapped some SMD caps with radial caps so all the radial caps you see on the boards and all the SMD caps with a green dot were swapped out. If you download the pics then you can zoom in with windows picture viewer. http://www.box.net/shared/oyzix56k35#Mitsu

I suspect that you guys don't really want to hear this, but after removing every SMD and radial cap from one DM, and many SMDs from other DMs and FMT boards, I have found that most have low capacitance (typically 50% or lower than rated value), high ESR (typically twice what is considered normal for the voltage rating) and some have high DA and leakage (as tested with the Sencore analyzer). The conclusion, IMO and IME, which covers nearly three decades of service, including all of the Mitsubishi sets that have had capacitor problems, is that unless you change every capacitor in the sets, you are unlikely to end up with a reliable repair on the V26 chassis. I have removed hundreds of caps and found that nearly all of the Jamicon radial caps are failing, and approximately 90% of the SMD caps are not within spec at this point in the life of these sets.

not good news but thanks for the hard work and info lcaillo.

So should mits be on the hook for a recall/replacement or a class action lawsuit????? anything ever come of that??

I suspect that you guys don't really want to hear this, but after removing every SMD and radial cap from one DM, and many SMDs from other DMs and FMT boards, I have found that most have low capacitance (typically 50% or lower than rated value), high ESR (typically twice what is considered normal for the voltage rating) and some have high DA and leakage (as tested with the Sencore analyzer). The conclusion, IMO and IME, which covers nearly three decades of service, including all of the Mitsubishi sets that have had capacitor problems, is that unless you change every capacitor in the sets, you are unlikely to end up with a reliable repair on the V26 chassis. I have removed hundreds of caps and found that nearly all of the Jamicon radial caps are failing, and approximately 90% of the SMD caps are not within spec at this point in the life of these sets.

I have been wondering if a total capacitor replacement might be the best route to take, saving the trouble of having to pull everything out again once the remaining caps start to fail. Anyway, if you're going to R&R 30 caps on one board you might as well throw in another 30 or so and save yourself a headache.

Leeisfishing-
Thanks for the photo post. The info I'm getting on this forum is really going to help a lot.
I could see markings on the caps but not clearly in zoom, are they all standardized value markings or just in-house numbers that I will somehow have to desipher?

Does anyone know what Mitsubishi does for the chassis rebuild? Do they replace all capacitors? I have my chassis back from them, but my 52525 is not yet up, due to a chassis fan failure (Code 35) on installation, and the techs waiting on that part (which i pretty much know won't solve it, unless the repair center installed the fan the wrong way or the tech messed up on the polarity when he respliced cut wires.)

I have been wondering if a total capacitor replacement might be the best route to take, saving the trouble of having to pull everything out again once the remaining caps start to fail. Anyway, if you're going to R&R 30 caps on one board you might as well throw in another 30 or so and save yourself a headache.

More like several hundred to change all of the caps in the chassis.

I seriously doubt that Mitsubishi is changing all of them. Likely just the ones that have a pattern of causing certain symptoms that they know about.

I suspect that you guys don't really want to hear this, but after removing every SMD and radial cap from one DM, and many SMDs from other DMs and FMT boards, I have found that most have low capacitance (typically 50% or lower than rated value), high ESR (typically twice what is considered normal for the voltage rating) and some have high DA and leakage (as tested with the Sencore analyzer). The conclusion, IMO and IME, which covers nearly three decades of service, including all of the Mitsubishi sets that have had capacitor problems, is that unless you change every capacitor in the sets, you are unlikely to end up with a reliable repair on the V26 chassis. I have removed hundreds of caps and found that nearly all of the Jamicon radial caps are failing, and approximately 90% of the SMD caps are not within spec at this point in the life of these sets.

Do you have any theories as to what is causing all these caps to go bad? Is it just a case of normal life cycle, or is Mits running them to close to spec, thereby shortening the useful life? Caps can go for much longer than 3-4 years no? As a repair tech, you don't see equipment needing this type of cap replacement regularly, do you?

On my PS board, I only had two bad caps (they were bulging), and one questionable. I don't have the tools/analyzers that you have, but all except those showed good cap and esr readings (out of circuit). I am getting a bunch of questionable esr readings on many caps on the DM and FMT boards, so I do agree with your claims. But even if I replace them all now, isn't it likely I'll be replacing them again in about 4 years?

I just don't understand how so many caps can be going bad, unless the Mits design is running them too close to spec.

Most of them seem to be rated appropriately. I think it is the same thing that they had back in the early 1990s with the V11 chassis...just bad batches of caps from their suppliers. Why Mitsubishi seems to have more of these problems than other vendors is a good question, but I suspect it is just buying large numbers of caps on the cheap.

Contrary to what some have suggested, I do not find the temps in this chassis significantly different from other products. Caps are a high failure part in most brands and models, and they seem to be more likely to fail these days than in the past. Could be the stress that modern designs place on them or it could be that there is more variablility in manufacturing and the pressure to make smaller parts makes it worse than in the past.

Does anyone out there have an image of how these surface mount caps are attached/soldered? I have never looked that closely at these types of caps, and am curious about the proper technique.

I am also curious whether anyone has compiled a list of ALL the caps that can be replaced (perhaps with part numbers from an electronics supplier like mouser or digikey)?

I have noticed that my TV shows TERRIBLE wavy lines on my DVD player input (component) when it is NOT set to progressive scan mode (480i). The lines go away for the most part if I set progressive scan mode.

I figure this TV is living on borrowed time, and I am curious what it would cost if I was to buy a complete "kit" of caps to do the swapping.

I must admit that if this thing does die, the 67" Sammy LED engine DLP looks pretty nice. I just have to figure out what to do with the Mits, then. The damn thing is so heavy, it will be difficult to wrestle it up the stairs from my basement. (I remember how the delivery guys from BB struggled getting it downstairs - and that there are no good handholds on it).

Does anyone out there have an image of how these surface mount caps are attached/soldered? I have never looked that closely at these types of caps, and am curious about the proper technique.

I am also curious whether anyone has compiled a list of ALL the caps that can be replaced (perhaps with part numbers from an electronics supplier like mouser or digikey)?

I have noticed that my TV shows TERRIBLE wavy lines on my DVD player input (component) when it is NOT set to progressive scan mode (480i). The lines go away for the most part if I set progressive scan mode.

I figure this TV is living on borrowed time, and I am curious what it would cost if I was to buy a complete "kit" of caps to do the swapping.

I must admit that if this thing does die, the 67" Sammy LED engine DLP looks pretty nice. I just have to figure out what to do with the Mits, then. The damn thing is so heavy, it will be difficult to wrestle it up the stairs from my basement. (I remember how the delivery guys from BB struggled getting it downstairs - and that there are no good handholds on it).

I was the one who suggested the $20 SMD removal pinchers, but I didn't have any luck with it. Reason being...I didn't realize these caps had legs. I thought there was two solder lugs on the edge of the case, where you could heat both pads and lift the cap out. Seemed like a nice fit for the 'pinching' de-soldering tool. But, these caps actually have small legs from the middle that are run through the platic spacer, then bend out to the sides onto the circuit board solder pads. There's quite a bit of leg on the solder pads, and I had better luck just heating one side at a time and slowly lifting off the cap little by little, alternating sides as I went. I recommend a flat tip soldering iron tip to get maximum heat on the pad to thoroughly melt the whole thing.
It helps to have a good light source and a magnifying glass. After removing about six of them, I decided to wait till I had those tools. Still, I wonder if it would be better to just break off the cap legs, then clean up the pads and install the replacement. The risk is if there is a pad underneath on the circuit board that is already weak. I may resort to that if my skills/technique don't improve, and I use a twisting motion to break the cap legs.

As far as cost, there's a parts list of sort in one of the more recent pages, and I believe the total was close to $70. Trouble is, I also believe that was only for about 50 caps if I remember correctly. There are about 200 caps total between the three troubled boards, so potentially, a full cap replacement can approach $200 for caps (rough estimate). After figuring that, and having invested in some tools already, I decided to simply replace the caps that are suspect on the ESR meter. I'll keep tabs of what I replaced, and compare to what needs replacing in the future.

Well, it's been a while since I've been on this forum. WD-62725 purchased in October 2004. in Sep '07, I had my E2P board replaced. This August, my VGA connection started giving a picture with horizontal lines or waves. My extended warranty servicer sent it to Mits' shop, and after 2 months I got it back. The work order said they replaced a total of 47 caps of three types. No wavy lines, but now I have a really crappy VGA picture with "sparkles". Back to the extended warranty servicer who will see if they have to send it back to Mits.

The reason I wish I read this forum a few days ago is that when I had the tv back for a week, I watched one dvd. I had the GBLOD three times during the dvd playback, but didn't think anything of it. I will call the servicer and let him know.

Any suggestions on what I should do? I guess if the servicer resolves the problem I'm stuck with the set and will have to wait until it fails again.

My extended warranty was from Good Guys (RIP) and is now being handled by GE. Thanks to this thread, I was able to work with the servicer to pressure both GE and Mits to admit the tv cannot be fixed and give me a replacement. It only took two days of incessant calling before GE told me they were making a recommendation to replace the tv, and it will be about another week before it is formally approved.

I don't know what tv I will be offered, but I'll bring up the fact that some people have received a 835 series as a replacement. Since I spent $4,000 for the tv and $450 for the extended warranty, the 736 would seem kind of cheap on Mits' part. Anyone able to suggest more ammo I can use when I try to negotiate the replacement?

More like several hundred to change all of the caps in the chassis.

I seriously doubt that Mitsubishi is changing all of them. Likely just the ones that have a pattern of causing certain symptoms that they know about.

So, do you think the problem goes beyond just the DM FMT aand PWR boards?

I was the one who suggested the $20 SMD removal pinchers, but I didn't have any luck with it. Reason being...I didn't realize these caps had legs. I thought there was two solder lugs on the edge of the case, where you could heat both pads and lift the cap out. Seemed like a nice fit for the 'pinching' de-soldering tool. But, these caps actually have small legs from the middle that are run through the platic spacer, then bend out to the sides onto the circuit board solder pads. There's quite a bit of leg on the solder pads, and I had better luck just heating one side at a time and slowly lifting off the cap little by little, alternating sides as I went. I recommend a flat tip soldering iron tip to get maximum heat on the pad to thoroughly melt the whole thing.
It helps to have a good light source and a magnifying glass. After removing about six of them, I decided to wait till I had those tools. Still, I wonder if it would be better to just break off the cap legs, then clean up the pads and install the replacement. The risk is if there is a pad underneath on the circuit board that is already weak. I may resort to that if my skills/technique don't improve, and I use a twisting motion to break the cap legs.

As far as cost, there's a parts list of sort in one of the more recent pages, and I believe the total was close to $70. Trouble is, I also believe that was only for about 50 caps if I remember correctly. There are about 200 caps total between the three troubled boards, so potentially, a full cap replacement can approach $200 for caps (rough estimate). After figuring that, and having invested in some tools already, I decided to simply replace the caps that are suspect on the ESR meter. I'll keep tabs of what I replaced, and compare to what needs replacing in the future.

Good to know. I was just about to order a set of those tweezer types myself. I think I'll just buy some soldering tips for my iron instead. You said you had to go back and forth from pad to pad, were you using a solder-sucker?