Time to research what to replace it with.

ANYTHING!!! but a Mitsubishi will be a good start.

ANYTHING!!! but a Mitsubishi will be a good start.

Yep, I went the non-Mits route with my replacement. Hope they're happy with the money they got from me for this defective set, because it's the last they'll ever see from me.

Consumer Reports had a recent issue that covered a bunch of sets. They also included the results from a survey of 20,000 set purchasers. Don't remember what the survey covered but it ranked about eight or so manufacturers.

Might be worth picking up a copy before buying a new set.

Thanks, due to lack of (affordable) options in the 60"+ space, i've narrowed it down to the 65735, 73735, or samsun 67" LED DLP. I am concerned about mitsu again, but have also read about alot of convergance issues with the sammy. I wish 65" LCD's were more affordable. Thoughts on those?

I just looked at a 67" LED Sammy today next to a 73" Mits. Of course, you can't really compare them without knowing what the settings are but all I wanted to see was generally if the LED version looked similar to the bulb version, and I would say it does. They had it jammed in an aisle at BB so I could not stand more than about 4' away, so its difficult to make any meaningful comparisons, but the LED set looked pretty good.

That being the case I'm likely getting a 61" LED Sammy shortly. I'm "voting with my feet" after putting down $3300 plus the cost of bulbs to get 4 years of life. OF course, on the Sammy DLP forum you see a lot of people bitching about Sammy customer service, picture issues (geometry and "convergence" mostly) etc. so they may not be better. One difference: the 61" DLP is now under $1500 and no bulb costs vs. the $3300 + bulbs before.

I think I'll keep my busted Mits in the basement for a while and see if I can find a used chassis or the boards for sale on Ebay or this forum and if I can get it running again for a hundred bucks maybe do that. I saw on Ebay a used (working) 52725 for $575 so its hard to see spending $300 for parts.

Thanks for the feedback, right now I'm leaning towards the sammy 67" led dlp. Gonna hit up a few Bernie's/Best Buy's tomorrow to see what I can find. All the local BB's show OOS online. I was talking to a guy at the local TV repair shop today when i was returning my lamp and as soon as I told him the model i had he wasn't suprised and started mentioning all the issues i've read about here. Gonna do the same thing as someone else mentioned, put this in my basement and if i feel like getting daring taking it apart and trying to learn how to fix it as a DIY.

Well, turns out my $50 CL purchase does have a broken color wheel, in addition to GBLOD. I was going to do the full cap repair, but maybe not if I can't get a simple cw replacement. Does Mits still not offer just the cw as a repair part? Seems like a simple swap to me.

Well, turns out my $50 CL purchase does have a broken color wheel, in addition to GBLOD. I was going to do the full cap repair, but maybe not if I can't get a simple cw replacement. Does Mits still not offer just the cw as a repair part? Seems like a simple swap to me.

They do not sell color wheel as seperate part on that model.

Hi, I have a 52725 and the unit has been shutting down randomly. There is a message on the screen for about a second and then the tv turns off. Too fast to read. I get a blinking red light that flashes twice. I can either unplug or hit reset to get the tv to work again. This happens about once a week now. Any ideas?

Thanks.

I'd start researching for a replacement unit.

Hi, I have a 52725 and the unit has been shutting down randomly. There is a message on the screen for about a second and then the tv turns off. Too fast to read. I get a blinking red light that flashes twice. I can either unplug or hit reset to get the tv to work again. This happens about once a week now. Any ideas?

Thanks.

[QUOTE=August West;15697393]I just looked at a 67" LED Sammy today next to a 73" Mits. Of course, you can't really compare them without knowing what the settings are but all I wanted to see was generally if the LED version looked similar to the bulb version, and I would say it does. They had it jammed in an aisle at BB so I could not stand more than about 4' away, so its difficult to make any meaningful comparisons, but the LED set looked pretty good.
[QUOTE]

That is the route I went. Had a Mits 62725 that died, replaced it with the Sammy 67A750. Life is good now. Its bigger, better, and I got it for about $2k less than I paid for the Mits.

Still trying to figure out what to do with the 62" paperweight.

I got my chassis replaced on my 62725. While it did not fix everything, the wavy line problem is gone. I am still unable to use my PC (vga) input like I used to do but I was able to hook my PC up through the HDMI connection. All in all I am happy to have things somewhat back to normal. I glad I sprung for the 5 year extended warranty.

Ended up with the Sammy 67A750 and so far I LOVE IT! The extra size is great and the picture seems better then the old one. Granted I'm sure the 3.5 y/o bulb was starting to dim, but still. Now just trying to figure out what to do with the beast of a mitsu sitting in my basement. Can't believe how much lighter the sammy was compared to the 62725.

Ended up with the Sammy 67A750 and so far I LOVE IT! The extra size is great and the picture seems better then the old one. Granted I'm sure the 3.5 y/o bulb was starting to dim, but still. Now just trying to figure out what to do with the beast of a mitsu sitting in my basement. Can't believe how much lighter the sammy was compared to the 62725.

Hey - you have to change your signature line now. No more Mits.

I pulled the trigger on a 61" Sammy LED DLP and we'll see how it goes. If I can find a chassis for the Mits for a reasonable price I'll fix it up. If I can't I'll probably just landfill it when the weather gets warmer.

I'd start researching for a replacement unit.

I have been doing that.

For those folks replacing their broken Mitsy's, if you decide to scrap the Mits please consider offering up the parts that may be of value to others. I, for one, need a color wheel for a 52725 that I'm reviving. I know others here may want the main boards for their repairs as well. So you may make some money before trashing it.

Okay, folks -- very annoyed WD-62725 owner here. I have the red lamp with the error 34 bulb abnormality error (real specific error -- Mitsubishi morons!). It's killing me to put a $5,000 Mitsu DLP at the curb for garbage collection, but I have absolutely zero interest in replacing caps, motherboards, ballasts, etc., that is being discussed here, and I'm definitely not paying any more money for someone else to do it. $5,000 is enough to expect a TV to last longer than three years total (at only two years it needed a fan/system board and a bulb replaced).

Time to lose the lame duck DLP and move on to a reliable TV at 1/10th the cost. It goes to the curb a week from today. Be advised it's also listed on Craig's List. I'm in the Jacksonville, Florida (NE Florida) area. I'm not interested in pulling individual parts and shipping, because I know from first-hand experience what a PITA this thing is to disassemble. If no one wants it within a week, it's going to the local landfill. And don't blame me for the toxic waste -- blame Mitsubishi, for manufacturing the worst designed TVs known to mankind. I have the funny feeling that most of our Earth's crust is full of these TVs.

Welcome to the club, went through all this last week with my 62725; but now i'm really enjoying my sammy 67A750! It's unbelievable to see how many people have this issue, it's really pathetic. Also, my mitsu is on craigslist in the hartford,ct area; share the same thoughts of not wanting to pull it all apart. So if anyone in central CT wants it for parts contact me!

Thanks for the welcome -- no offense, but it's a club I would have rather not joined! ;)

You showed far more faith than I will -- you still went with a DLP to replace your Mitsu. I won't go anywhere near the technology again. DLP is a bad dream that Mitsu design turns into an absolute nightmare. No thanks! Lesson learned the hard way (hard on my wallet). I have to admit that the LED DLPs look intriguing, but I have no faith in the technology anymore.

I'll probably end up with a 58" Panasonic plasma (around $2,500) or I may go LCD to get something bigger for even less money than that.

Thanks for the welcome -- no offense, but it's a club I would have rather not joined! ;)

You showed far more faith than I will -- you still went with a DLP to replace your Mitsu. I won't go anywhere near the technology again. DLP is a bad dream that Mitsu design turns into an absolute nightmare. No thanks! Lesson learned the hard way (hard on my wallet). I have to admit that the LED DLPs look intriguing, but I have no faith in the technology anymore.

I'll probably end up with a 58" Panasonic plasma (around $2,500) or I may go LCD to get something bigger for even less money than that.


I hear you but in my case my DLP failed not because it was a DLP (i.e. the light engine, color wheel etc. are fine) but because Mits used bad capacitors. I'm sticking with the technology, just changing to Samsung. The 61" LED version is less than 1/3 of the $5000 you mention and a good thousand less than the smaller plasma.

If DLPs were still as expensive as these WDs were 4 years ago I would switch to Plasma or LCD but at these prices there's not so much to lose.

If my room was smaller and prices were right I definately would've gone LCD or Plasma, but didn't feel like spending 4K on a 60+ inch. Definately stayed away from mitsu, but love the sammy so far. Plus, for $1800, if it only lasts 4 years, I can deal with that alot better then 3.5 years for the over 3k i paid for the mitsu. Goodluck w/whatever you buy!

I just got my firmware update from Mitsibishi. I updated the set and it is showing v4.07 now. I thought that v4.06 is the latest?? Anyway, I was going to share the files, but the card does not seem to have a file structure on it, as I see nothing in Windows Explorer. If someone can explain how I can pull these files off, I will share this latest update.

I was hoping this would resolve an HDMI issue that I started experiencing 3 weeks ago with my Motorola/Verizon FIOS converter. Seems that the HDCP handshake is not happening anymore. The model is a QIP7200. I just had this replaced....previously had a QIP6100 with the same issue. Is this the firmware on the converter that is causing this? I am currently using it with the component cables....When trying to get HDMI working I sometimes got a message "HD content protection has been compromised..." I didn't know if this was coming from my mitsu or the motorola box.

Anyone else experience this? I did some searches on this message and saw some suggestions about unplugging the box, then power on the TV first....this did not work for me.

Any assistance would be appreciated!

-Mark

I just got my firmware update from Mitsibishi. I updated the set and it is showing v4.07 now. I thought that v4.06 is the latest?? Anyway, I was going to share the files, but the card does not seem to have a file structure on it, as I see nothing in Windows Explorer. If someone can explain how I can pull these files off, I will share this latest update

When you install the firmware, the TV wipes the card clean. Perhaps it's a Mits strategy to keep people from sharing the files??

The irony is that when I first asked Mits to send me a firmware update, they refused while giving me some BS concern that it could damage my set. Heh, maybe they should've been a little more worried about the dozen swollen capacitors in my set that were no longer operating within spec.

As for the HDMI issue, several people here have encountered issues with their HDMI not working. If you try multiple cables and multiple sources without luck, then it seems likely to be a TV hardware failure.

no plasma:

It works with my Dlink media center extender, just not with my Motorola cable box QIP7200. I think it is a HDCP issue....

52525, never had any real issues, had it for 3-4 years. Until today - turn it on, get blue screen with some text about my video connections being invalid. I check my non-cable box input, and the picture looks 'okay', but very grainy. Hmm. Turn it off, turn it back on; now in addition to the blue screen I have a large white static oval in the middle. And the non-cable box input now is blue screened as well. After a few more tests over an hour or so with cooldown in-between, the staticky white oval has almost completely taken over the blue screen, so much so that i cannot even read the 'connections invalid' text across the bottom. However, my green light stays proudly solid; no yellow/reds and no blinking.

I've read about half of the pages in this thread, and seen only a few cases of this 'blue screen of death' as opposed to the 'blinking green light of death' that seems so common. But I'm guessing maybe I just had some different caps blow - same culprit, different manifestation.

Any thoughts? And if it is the standard MO caps issue - what is the approximate repair cost guesstimate? Have I truly just inherited a 90-lb paperweight in my living room?

Thanks to all -

My advice is not to sink another cent into this set and this company. You are at the timeframe where the set goes to hell, and if you get this item fixed you never know when the next one is gonna hit. This set is a piece of crap, once it starts breaking down get rid of it, unless you are a true do it yourselfer with electrical and soldering expertise and don't mind working on it more than sitting back and enjoying it.

Mitsubishi screwed the pooch on this one. Penny wise and pound foolish comes to mind. There is no way anyone will ever convince me that the lifespan of a $4,000 set should be around 4 years. You can go to hell Mitsubishi!

Who makes the argument that the sets should only last 4 years? Mitsubishi obviously does not think so or they would not be fixing so many of them as warranty accomodations.

Who makes the argument that the sets should only last 4 years? Mitsubishi obviously does not think so or they would not be fixing so many of them as warranty accomodations.

No one argues the set should only last 4 years. Reality says that they are only lasting about 4 years before requiring some major and ongoing repairs, which you admit there are so many of them. There seems to be a pattern throughout this thread that at around 4years this set goes to hell (problems are well documented). Sorry, but a $4,000 set should not be experiencing these level of problems this consistently after such a short period of time.

Of course they should not be failing in the way that they are at this age. You said "There is no way anyone will ever convince me that the lifespan of a $4,000 set should be around 4 years."

No one wants to convince you of that, including Mitsubishi. You can berate them all you want, and some of it is certainly valid. The fact remains that when facing sets that have a pattern of failures, Mitsubishi has stepped up to take care of their customers. One would hope that they would have figured out where to buy caps over the last twenty years, but at least they try to take care of their customers. That is far more than most vendors do.

How are they "stepping up" to help their customers? Can I call them to come out and replace my caps? Please provide that phone #. More likely I will be told to go pound sand. Mitsubishi is a total joke.

Of course they should not be failing in the way that they are at this age. You said "There is no way anyone will ever convince me that the lifespan of a $4,000 set should be around 4 years."

No one wants to convince you of that, including Mitsubishi. You can berate them all you want, and some of it is certainly valid. The fact remains that when facing sets that have a pattern of failures, Mitsubishi has stepped up to take care of their customers. One would hope that they would have figured out where to buy caps over the last twenty years, but at least they try to take care of their customers. That is far more than most vendors do.

I'm stuck with my tv now and was wondering if someone had a contact phone number or can link back to where in this thread they have the information on how to send your parts to mitsubishi for a chassis rebuild. I've replaced many caps hoping to fix my video noise issues and now i've got the BGLOD problem and i'm suspecting some of the SMT caps need replacement. There are just too many of them for me and too much labor for to me indulge into even though i enjoy things like this. I'd rather just have someone else do it. Mitsubishi offered me financial support for the repairs, even though i'm out of warranty, given that i have the tv looked at by a one of their certified repair centers and provide them with a written estimate of the diagnostics performed. I would simply just prefer to send them the parts and have them do a complete rebuild without any of this other hassle. If anyone has some contact info or a number to call or any other means to go about getting this rebuild done i would surely appreciate it.

The fact remains that when facing sets that have a pattern of failures, Mitsubishi has stepped up to take care of their customers...

Maybe I missed something here...has anyone with an out-of-warranty set (read: past the 90 days labor/1 year parts) been able to get any type of assistance from Mitsu? If so, then 1-I too want the phone number, and 2-I would not neccessarily jump from the brand as quickly as I was about to. I fully enjoyed this set - before it blew up.

Maybe I missed something here...has anyone with an out-of-warranty set (read: past the 90 days labor/1 year parts) been able to get any type of assistance from Mitsu? If so, then 1-I too want the phone number, and 2-I would not neccessarily jump from the brand as quickly as I was about to. I fully enjoyed this set - before it blew up.

Unless I am mistaken, and I very well could be, there were instances cited in either this or another Mits thread of people going through Mits' Customer Relations Dept. and getting some post-warranty help. But again, I might be wrong. I am pretty sure I've seen that referenced some around here...hope you can find the posts and have some good luck with it...

Randy

I got the 65835 replacement for my 62725 set. My god is it better!! Pluse they gave me A 5 year warranty
I am more than happy. I called Mits and spoke very nice to them and gave them a list of problems and a list of parts that went in to it. I all so had the store get in touch with the MIT Rep for me and spoke with him.
Mit. customer service Rep. was very cool to deal with. He new of all the problems and saw I had them all. He said to me was ( Lets get you out of this first gen. peice of **** and put you into a 65736 TV) I was shocked!! So I called the Mit. rep for the store and told him I should get the 65835 because I spent so much More on my 725. He said I was right. So he got me the 65835 and said He got Mits to give me a 5 year warranty.
I have had this set now for about6 weeks and love every part of it.
I will say it blows a way my sony SXDR3000A that will go in the basement now for the kids to use

Maybe I missed something here...has anyone with an out-of-warranty set (read: past the 90 days labor/1 year parts) been able to get any type of assistance from Mitsu? If so, then 1-I too want the phone number, and 2-I would not neccessarily jump from the brand as quickly as I was about to. I fully enjoyed this set - before it blew up.


You missed a lot. I have stated many times that lots of customers have had their chassis rebuilt by Mitsubishi at reduced or no cost, even on these sets that are nearing 4 years old. Mitsubishi has done so no other problems in the past. I have personally done thousands of dollars in repairs that they covered under warranty on sets that were far beyond the original warranty period.

Get an estimate for the repair from a Mitsubishi ASC and call customer relations with your problem to see what they will do. They handle these issues on a case by case basis.

The labor warranty, BTW, on all Mitsubishi television product has been one year for as long as I can recall, and has never been 90 days.

Talk very very nice to them and they will help you more.

The customer relations lady i spoke to on the phone was very nice and very helpful and seemed generally interested in helping me with my case. I'm just concerned that i'm going to call out a service man to do diagnostics and pay him the money and then mistubishi is going to reject my case and be out of that money too. I'm weary about the whole procedure but might take a chance with it.

I found a mistake in the FMT board list. So here's the corrected cap list.132749

Hey guys need some major help.
I have mit wd 62725 DLP. It was hooked up to cable just yesterday via the monolink HDMI port. I added surround sound yesterday and am sending all vedio from Tos A30 and Cable to AVR (onyko tx-sr876) to TV.

No I cant get any video!!! WTF.

Need help and I dont know how to perfrom a master reset and no I have no tv to veiw.

JUST FYI. I did check to see if the AVR was bad by hooking it up to another TV >>> Worked fine. I also checked to see if the Mit went bad during install. I hooked a set of vedio cables up and I got vedio from the avr on screen but I can get vedio from the avr and sources becuase it does not backwards convert HDMI sources to Compont.

HELP PLEASE

A few suggestions on cap replacement.

The I/O board on mine had a swollen cap so it needs to be checked also.

For the surface mounts caps I upgraded to larger values in an attempt to improve noise margins that cause video and other problems and also reduce internal heating that leads to failures. The Panasonic FK line has a size code D8 that allows higher uFs with the same lead spacing. Here are my upgrades: all 47 uf 16V upgraded to 100 uF 16V, all 100 uF 16V upgraded to 220 uF 16V, all 220 uF 6 Volt (also 5V and 4V) upgraded to 330 uF 6.3 V. I didn't bother with the smaller caps since they are harder to change out and probably had less stress than the rest.

This in addition to the through-holes where Panasonic FMs were used. In this case I used the highest value uF that would fit on the board and even then if space was available the cap was glued on its side to the board.

I noticed that the voltage regulator tabs are all soldered to the board instead of left standing with heatsinks. This causes the copper traces on the board to conduct all the heat from the regulators to other components nearby, including the caps. I took a stab at reducing temps by gluing heat sinks to all the regulators (and all the major ICs as well) to try to get some of that heat out into the air flow where it belongs. This should reduce board temperatures a bit and prolong the life of all the components.

After about 100 caps or so were changed I fired the set up and ran if for a couple hours out of the enclosure but with the shields and fan installed. Then checked the cap temps by touch. They were only slightly above ambient, about as cool as could be expected.

Still, I'll install a couple fans as a precaution as the existing design does not look too effective.

One last tip: use Deoxit on the connectors. I had one dirty connector that was causing problems.

Changing capacitance values without knowing what the caps do in the circuit is bad practice and may lead to unexpected problems. If you want to increase something to improve reliability, increasing the voltage rating is usually safe. In some cases, higher voltage rated caps are a little higher in ESR, so use low impedance varieties.

You may be fine as many of the caps in the ranges you listed are not critical to value, but again, without knowing what they do in the circuit, it is foolish to change capacitance values.

Hey guys need some major help.
I have mit wd 62725 DLP. It was hooked up to cable just yesterday via the monolink HDMI port. I added surround sound yesterday and am sending all vedio from Tos A30 and Cable to AVR (onyko tx-sr876) to TV.

No I cant get any video!!! WTF.

Need help and I dont know how to perfrom a master reset and no I have no tv to veiw.

JUST FYI. I did check to see if the AVR was bad by hooking it up to another TV >>> Worked fine. I also checked to see if the Mit went bad during install. I hooked a set of vedio cables up and I got vedio from the avr on screen but I can get vedio from the avr and sources becuase it does not backwards convert HDMI sources to Compont.

HELP PLEASE
I am not sure I understand your connection.

What device are you connecting to the TVs HDMI input?

To reset to default setup. press MENU 123

I am not sure I understand your connection.

What device are you connecting to the TVs HDMI input?

To reset to default setup. press MENU 123
Sorry I was not clear.

I am connecting the Onkyo 876 to the Mit. I am running everything sound and vedio into the AVR and sending monitor out to the Mit.

Yes, only upgrade cap uF values at your own risk.

I am no engineer but blown up quality caps like the Nichicons suggests a severe design problem. Thus replacing blown up caps with the same type and value of cap will inevitably lead to the very same result -- more blown up caps a few years down the road.

My guess is that caps specified by the manufacturer are based on the minimum cost to get the unit to: 1) work somewhat reliably when new and 2) survive to the end of the warranty period without exceeding warranty costs built into the selling price. You can see this in Mitsu's selection of a mix of caps - they could have used the more expensive low impedance Nichicons everywhere in the circuit - but they didn't. Even then the Nichicons (one of their top-of-the-line) were obviously stressed beyond their specs.

From what I've read most caps above 47uF in value are likely associated with power supplies. Typically these values are used for crude low(er) frequency filtering, noise suppression, and transient voltage surge/sag compensation. With a tolerances of +/- 20%, lousy frequency response, terrible temperature stability, and high leakage, they are almost useless for any other purpose except for less critical analog/digital DC blocking and coupling. But these applications are usually in the 1-10uF range, another reason I didn't mess with the smaller values. Still, an engineer could select electrolytics for wave shaping and timing but performance and stability would be so poor it would be crazy. I'm sure it happens --anybody remember Muntz TV's?

Swapping higher values typically reduces supply voltage ripple and downstream source noise along with reduced voltage transient swings. All of this reduces the chances of system upsets/lockups in digital circuits and reduces noise and improves stability in analog circuits.

But the real benefit however is longer cap life if the existing caps are initially anywhere close to keeping ripple voltage under typical levels - say 50-100 mV range.

Or so the theory goes....

Still, there might be a problem if somebody goes **really** overboard. A slower voltage rise on boot up might exceed a processor's reset hold timing circuit. If the reset is not held long enough compared to the voltage rise, the system might not start reliably.

so i went about and had the set diagnosed (for $90). tech came out, said it could be the caps, it could be the lamp ballast, it could be the light engine. First two total about 350 with labor; light engine is basically more money than the set is worth.

contacted mitsu csa with my problem, and as some stated above, they seemed very receptive. opened a claim, asked me to send copies of reciept and repair estimate and they'd review my case.

that all sounded great to me; maybe they'd eat the repair cost or give me $$$ off a new set.

However....

When my wife located our best buy reciept, it still had our 4-year best buy maintenance agreement attached to it (I had only purchased the plan because it covered the first lamp replacement). And the date of our purchase? May 2005! :):D:):D:):D:)

Needless to say, we now have contacted best buy and are waiting for THEIR tech to come out. Followed I'm sure by them doing (and paying for) the repairs, or replacing the set or something similarly grand.

THANK GOD I FINALLY BOUGHT AN EXTENDED WARRANTY!!!

I'll keep the forum posted as to the final verdict on what happened on the set, and/or what best buy does for us.

Today was a good day....

lciallo,

as an a/v tech that services Mitsubishi displays, can you tell us approx how many of these Mits WD 52/62x25 V.26 chassis units you have dealt with??

How many chassis you have sent into Mits for rebuild, what is the average turn around time for them to get it back to you. how many went bad later that were previously rebuilt by Mits?

How long does it take an average Mits service tech to take the chassis out and replace it once rebuilt by Mits?. What kind of cost range should an owner be looking at for this type repair.

I'm kinda dreading this but finally going to start the quest to get my WD62525 repaired/replaced. It started having wavy line issues and other random problems last March and just unplugged it not wanting to deal with it along with major health issues last year. But it's time to tackle this thing and see if Mits will help and keep the forum posted on any good progress to the process.

I have dealt with a couple of dozen. Some of the early repairs are still working, but a number of them have developed other problems. We stopped rebuilding them when we realized that the problem was bigger than the radial caps and included dozens of SMD caps, and the early repairs started coming back with different problems. By that time Mits was rebuilding them more completely. The last one I did was completed yesterday. The chassis took a little under 4 weeks to pull, get to Mits, and get it back and installed. Mits covered the rebuild and the client paid for labor to pull and install.

I can pull a chassis in about 45 minutes and reinstall in about the same, maybe a little more. The average tech with less experience with this chassis would likely take over an hour on each end. I know I did for a while.

lciallo thanks for the quick and helpful replies.

So that mits customer you just finished with had a total out of pocket cost for a couple hours labor total?? You mind saying what the total was? Did it include items such as service call, diagnostic time, return service call or just billed as labor??

Should it be pretty easy a Mits asc tech to diagnose a cap/chassis problem and not kinda of wonder off into chasing different problems.

Have you known any mits owners that you serviced to get a newer replacement Mits DLP/LCD set through Mitsubishi after having issues with their Mits WD-52/62x25 dlps.

geez i wish you were my local mits av tech. If you've done ~24 of them hopefully my local mits authorized service center will have at least done a couple (unfortunately) and will be able to handle it well. With the well known failure of these caps/chassis it would seem like any Mits ASC would be pretty well versed in dealing with these V.26 models. Does Mits send out any kind of service bulletins to the service centers about these known and high failure rate issues on the caps/chassis??

ok, so I'ma calling Mits tuesday morning to start the process.

I charge $300 for the two service calls and labor to change out the chassis both ways.

The quality and experience of ASCs varies greatly with Mits and all vendors. You have to quiz them about what they know. I see no reason to do anything but send the chassis back for a rebuild if ANY of the symptoms are chassis related or ANY caps are observed to be bad. Some may want to try to fix the set.

Yes, I do know of clients that were offered replacements when they could not provide replacement parts, but since they expanded the rebuild program that has not been the case.

Hello all, 1st time poster....

Bought my 52725 back in Dec 2004 and just changed the bulb about two months ago (8600 hours!!!). Started noticing the wavy lines after I put the new bulb in. Read thru almost the entire thread here and decided I'd check to make sure I had the bulb assembly in correctly (tight enough). That actually helped a ton, butI can still see the wavy lines. They are VERY bad on 480.

So, my question is, do I call an ASC and open a service ticket with Mits, or do I just change the caps on the list floating around? I'm going to crack open the box to clean the mirrors regardless.

As for my skills (or lack thereof) I recovered a curbside Polaroid 42" LCD by changing a bunch of caps, but they were the BeerCan type rather than SMTs.

Any thoughts, hints, tips on a DIYer?

My technique got much better after I started using paste solder flux. I bought a can of it, and now for the SMTs, I put a generous amount on the solder pads. It helps hold the small caps in place, as well as helps distribute the heat when applying the solder. So after removing the cap, I apply a little glob of the paste solder flux, place the cap, apply a small amount of solder to my iron (using a pointed tip), and touch the iron to the first cap leg. It usually flows extremely well, and tacks the cap in place; most of the time the cap doesn't move much. Then I solder the other leg, and finally retouch the first leg to feel better about its connection.

As you'll see, these small caps have very little 'legs' exposed for easy soldering. They can be a bit challenging and frustrating, but a little practice and you'll find your own technique. Good luck.

Any thoughts, hints, tips on a DIYer?

My soldering skills are very limited, but I replaced a handful of SMTs back in mid-December. The fix removed the wavy lines and my tv has been running great since. Solder flux is key. I like using solder that has the flux mixed in with it.

Having said all that, I've had to open up my tv three separate times now -- once for the 3300 uF power board caps, once for BGLOD, and once for wavy lines & purple bars. It seems like many sets are developing more than one of these problems. So while you're in there, I'd recommend replacing the power board 3300 uF caps, doing the BGLOD fix, doing the wavy line fix, and replacing the 1000 uF "clusters of four" on the Power, DM, and FMT boards. I'd call these fixes the low-hanging fruit that cause the more widespread issues. Otherwise there's a good chance you'll be opening it up again before too long.

I don't regret fixing it myself since I learned a lot in the process, but unless someone is a DIY'er who enjoys tinkering, the "$300 option" of finding an ASC and having Mits do a full rebuild looks pretty attractive.

According to what I find in the manual(s) and info on line, the "6VS" power supply source is either 6 or 6.3 volts depending on where I look.

Mine measures a bit higher.

Anybody have a good measurement or knows what this should actually be? I assume it is "semi" regulated by the optical feedback to the PWM switcher.

The 12V and +/- 15 look OK.

My technique got much better after I started using paste solder flux. I bought a can of it, and now for the SMTs, I put a generous amount on the solder pads. It helps hold the small caps in place, as well as helps distribute the heat when applying the solder. So after removing the cap, I apply a little glob of the paste solder flux, place the cap, apply a small amount of solder to my iron (using a pointed tip), and touch the iron to the first cap leg. It usually flows extremely well, and tacks the cap in place; most of the time the cap doesn't move much. Then I solder the other leg, and finally retouch the first leg to feel better about its connection.

As you'll see, these small caps have very little 'legs' exposed for easy soldering. They can be a bit challenging and frustrating, but a little practice and you'll find your own technique. Good luck.

When you say paste solder flux, is it just flux or is it the stuff that actually has solder mixed in with the flux? I've been practicing with SMTs on a small board I pulled out of the CD player from an old computer and have been having pretty good results using 60/40 solder with a rosin core and slightly bending one of the legs away from the plastic base -the base seems to act like a heat sink, freezing the solder too quickly, forcing me to add more heat to get it to flow again which in turn gets the cap hotter than I care for- by moving the leg away from the base I'm able push it into the flowing solder on the pad, getting good adhesion. However I'm open to using other techniques and if the paste makes it easier, I'm willing to give it whirl.

Use the largest tip on your iron that you can find that will allow you to access the components and keep it as hot as possible without continually oxidizing the tip. Many DIYers (and lousy techs) get into trouble and waste lots of time by having an iron that is too cool or cools too quickly. You have to get the heat to the work quickly or you end up heating the board and the parts too much.

Personally, my favorite tip is the K tip for the Hakko irons. It is huge, but with an angled knife edge it allows you to get to all but the most crowded parts:

http://www.hakkousa.com/detail.asp?CID=192,212,214&PID=1142&Page=1

Clean your tip regulary to keep it shiny. Add a little fresh solder to the joint if it refuses to cooperate. I use 63/37 eutectic because it has a lower melting point. This is particularly useful when trying to desolder joints made with lead free solder like these boards. If you add enough of the lower temp solder you reduce the melting point of the mix to be far lower than the lead free, as well as using the flux that is in the core. You can also use ChipQuick, which a much lower melting point formulation. It may seem like more time to add a bit of fresh solder to each joint before trying to remove the parts, but when they come up almost instantly when you go back and heat them again, it becomes obvious that you are saving time.

Zynchon,

LCaillo gives good advice. A hot, clean iron tip helps a lot. I was referring to using flux in paste form, without the solder beads.

Be sure to use a paste made for electronics and not for other uses. Some can leave a corrosive residue. Personally, I clean my boards after work anyway, but most people do not.

I'm using a Hakko soldering station. Any temperature recomondations? I'll pick up some paste flux and lower temp solder on the way home today. You said that the boards are done with no-lead solder, so are you wicking all that off the pads before you start the replacements?

Set your temperature with ANY station to the point where you can maintain a shiny tip when soldering, without the tip oxidizing. You need to clean the tip often.

As I said, I add fresh solder to the joint before rmoving parts. That tends to make the solder easier to remove. If you try to wick off the lead free solder you are wasting your time. If you can get it to melt, you might as well just lift the component off rather than using wick.

Set your temperature with ANY station to the point where you can maintain a shiny tip when soldering, without the tip oxidizing. You need to clean the tip often.

As I said, I add fresh solder to the joint before rmoving parts. That tends to make the solder easier to remove. If you try to wick off the lead free solder you are wasting your time. If you can get it to melt, you might as well just lift the component off rather than using wick.

When I was asking about wicking the pad clean I meant after the cap had been removed.

Yes, I remove the old solder and re-tin with fresh solder.

Does anyone know what fixes the faint horizontal lines on hd channels and mostly seen on dvd movies played on a hdmi hookup? It is purple/bluish horizontal line especially on a dark scene when watching dvd with an hdmi hookup. Thanks for any info.

Here's what the picture look like:

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/mdevera211/DSC01937.jpg

A streak of blue,purple,red, white that goes across horizontally.

A little off topic, but thought i'd ge peoples thoughts that are here, because they all have this TV, well, I would assume.

My chassis is out of the TV and back to Mits for a rebuild, wish me luck. In the meantime, I have been pondering things...........

I presently have a 1080i upconverting DVD player, but am looking at Blu-Ray. Since our TV's are "only" (I say that somewhat facetiously, but not totally) 1080i, and BR is 1080P, will I see a substantial increase in PQ, (and yes, I am talking about from a BR disc) if I make the switch? Have any of you done this, I would assume some have, and I would love to hear your thoughts. Also, is the BR "upconverter" for standard DVD's noticably better than a non BR system? I presently am using a Pioneer DV 400V. I am hesitant to make the move for a few reasons, one because of my doubts as to improved picture capability with our sets resolution, and secondly because of uncertainty in the future of the "shiny little discs" in general. We may soon be getting our content in other methods, and wonder about the life span of BR (and DVD, but I feel it is so much more entrenched in society that it will last longer) as a medium of delivery in general.

Yes, BR is much improved over DVD on our TV. Remember, even if you have an excellent upconverting DVD player such as the Oppo's, DVD is still 480p period. As for as comparing upconversion to your Pioneer, it really depends on which Bluray player you get. I agree the future is downloadable content but I still see that a few years away till its widespread. For now, I am enjoying BR (in my theather) and previously on the Mits.

BTW, how did you go about getting Mits to do the rebuild. I called but got the customer support in India and they werent willing to do anything. The elevated customer response are supposed to call me. The local Mits repairman picked up my set today. He wants to fix just the bad capacitors but seems to be a temporary patch to me.

BTW, how did you go about getting Mits to do the rebuild. I called but got the customer support in India and they werent willing to do anything. The elevated customer response are supposed to call me. The local Mits repairman picked up my set today. He wants to fix just the bad capacitors but seems to be a temporary patch to me.

I neglected to mention in my post (I have in previous ones) that for once, because I bought the set online, I opted for the warranty. (with in home service) The tech came out, saw some things, contacted the Warranty company for guidance as to what they wanted to do and they apparantly told him to pull the chassis and send it to Mits, probably on their dime. I believe the warranty company was "Warrentech".

Thanks for the reply.

Hi friends,

Ok here is what I have been through

I have a Mits WD-62725

Had the Green Light of Death on and off for a few months, finally just like everyone else, the system reset no longer brought it back to life.

Had 4 nice puffy Caps on the Power Supply board which I replaced.

Now when I plug in the unit the blinking green light goes off like it should, I power it up, the DLP lamp lights, stays lit for about 14 seconds get On screen display for 1 second and then the system shuts down,

Diagnostic code is 34 Lamp Abnormality

Lamp lights so I assume its good. What else would it be?

Peeked at the other board through cracks of housing cage and did not see any other problem caps so I assume I am ok there.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Here's what the picture look like:

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/mdevera211/DSC01937.jpg

A streak of blue,purple,red, white that goes across horizontally.
I have the same issue with my 62825. It seems to get worse the longer the set is on. I'm assuming it's an issue with the caps because I also have the wavy line issue. I am getting ready to call Mit's customer service and see how far I can get with them (I don't have an extended warranty)

btw, how did you go about getting mits to do the rebuild. I called but got the customer support in india and they werent willing to do anything. The elevated customer response are supposed to call me. The local mits repairman picked up my set today. He wants to fix just the bad capacitors but seems to be a temporary patch to me.
If you didn't already, try (800) 332-2119

Anyone need the gray plastic panel that goes under the screen for the 62525? Free local pick-up or just pay shipping.

My set was taken away for a chassis rebuild but had a question that was not answered. My set was experiencing many problems and would like to know if this will be fixed with the chassis replacement. The set had lines across the screen that seem to be the worst with analog inputs. There was also a black spot the size of a dime on the lower right cornor of the screen. At times the set had to be unplug in order to turn it off. No response from the front buttons. The remote died just before this all a happened. Lastly the lamp light would randomly start flashing then stop with no action from me. One more thing the enter button the front control does not repsond.

the set has been taken away so I guess I will see. Thank God for an exented warranty since the repair guy gave me a quick qoute of $1000.00 without even looking at the other problems. From what I am hearing I hope the price to fix is to high for Philips to want to repair and get me something else.

Thanks in advance

I, like many others, have the no-longer temporarily solvable BGLOD on my 4 year old 62725. Luckily I bought the 5 year warranty (the only warranty I've ever paid for) so they are sending a repair tech out tomorrow afternoon. I also remember the last time I tried to use the PC input it was basically unwatchable, I chalked it up to a bad monitor cable but after reading this I'm going to add that to the list of issues. Has anyone recently got theirs back from a chassis rebuild (what I'm expecting them to do) and how long did it take?

What did we do about stuff like this before the internet and awesome forums like this one?

Anyone need the gray plastic panel that goes under the screen for the 62525? Free local pick-up or just pay shipping.

How did you end up with an extra? Due to custom install? I don't need it, I'm just wondering. What I need is a color wheel, so if you know where I might find one, please let me know.

My set was taken away for a chassis rebuild but had a question that was not answered. My set was experiencing many problems and would like to know if this will be fixed with the chassis replacement. The set had lines across the screen that seem to be the worst with analog inputs. There was also a black spot the size of a dime on the lower right cornor of the screen. At times the set had to be unplug in order to turn it off. No response from the front buttons. The remote died just before this all a happened. Lastly the lamp light would randomly start flashing then stop with no action from me. One more thing the enter button the front control does not repsond.

the set has been taken away so I guess I will see. Thank God for an exented warranty since the repair guy gave me a quick qoute of $1000.00 without even looking at the other problems. From what I am hearing I hope the price to fix is to high for Philips to want to repair and get me something else.

Thanks in advance

I'd guess the chassis rebuild and a good cleanibg of the mirrors will take care of all your problems except the front panel buttons and dead remote.

My get your Mits WD 52/62x25 hopefully repaired blog:.....

Last week I started the process to attempt to get my WD 62525 repaired.
Bought new Feb 9, 2005, so it is right at 4 years old now. No Ext Warranty. It actually started having issues in March 2008, 11 months ago but due to health issues and having another tv i had not dealt with it until last week.

The problems started with wavy lines and other varying picture issues, it got worse and basically a screwed up picture or no picture at all and it would cut off. So now besides buying lamps and cleaning mirrors/filters I had a big ole POS sitting there unuseable just like alot of other owners.

Having kept up here on the Mits WD52/62x25 owners thread, asking questions, getting good responses from owners and a/v techs like laciallo and finally seeing a few more owners getting at least a little help from Mits on these particular sets that they know have known high failure issues I finally set out to try and get my WD62525 fixed by Mits even though it has been out of warranty for 3 years.

I started with the basic Mits Customer Service 1-800-332-2119....
I had called them when my first lamp went out after only 14 months and they had offered me a little help by reducing the lamp to $200 and then sending me a $75 refund check as customer assistance.

The first normal CSR I spoke to took my info and discussed the problem, she basically treated me like any newbie owner calling in and trying to go through standard issues, having me unplug/plug the set in many times and trying to explain the problem. I tried to explain about the bad capicator issues that Mits knows it has and finally she escalated me up to the next level. Got disconnected and called back and given to the next level service rep.

The next level rep was a little nicer and we went over the issues and I continued to bring up the bad capicator/chassis issues and that Mits has been rebuilding chassis for some customers which she said was all good but it came down to that I had to have my set diagnosed by a Mitsubishi Authorized Service Center tech and then contact her back and Mits would look into seeing what they could do to help. She did find a local mits service center that was alot closer and told me to contact them and have it checked out and return the results and she would see if they could escalate it to get some help from mits but made no promises of such.

I contacted the local mits service center the next day. The first tech said he was familiar with the WD62525 sets and that he had repaired 7-8 sets by replacing 5-10 caps on the boards but also had several return with issues after being repaired. I asked if they had sent any chassis to Mits for a complete rebuild and he said no they only do it in their shop. I told him that Mits rebuilds them with over 100 new pieces and he wasn't familiar with that so he handed me off to the shop manager.

I discussed it with the shop manager, he said he didn't know Mits did rebuild but they would be happy to pick it up, diagnose it, let me discuss the diagnose with Mits and ship it to them for a rebuild if approved. The pickup/return and diagnosis would cost $120, they don't do in home service and just to come out and do a in home diagnosis would be $65+. So I set it up to be be picked up and diagnosed. They came Monday and picked it up. The pick up guy was the first tech i had talked to and he mentioned they had at least 4-5 Mits "WD" sets around the shop in for service. He said they see alot of them.

Anyway I should get some report back from them next week and then hopefully get with mits and go forward with getting my WD 62525 chassis rebuilt/repaired (IF that is the exact problem) and back in and working. Despite needing lamps and cleaning the internal mirror and probably further cap issues in the future, it puts out a good pic when working and i decided i wasn't ready to throw my $3600 out on the curb just yet if Mits will give help with the chassis rebuild.

Just the early starts to the process and more to come when I get the next news in. Sorry for the long post just hope it does work out and this can help any Mits WD52/62x25 owners who had or will have issues get some help from Mits with their sets.

dssturbo1,

I think we are on the exact same page of this process. My set just went bad (bglod), repair center came and picked it up and I am waiting for the official "diagnosis" to fax to Mits. Of course we all know the problem but it has to be official from the local Mits authorized service center. Unfortunately, the local guy is bent on repairing it himself at a tune of 300 dollars to replace the bad caps. The Mits customer care offered the chassis rebuild and I would much prefer that to paying 300 now and then other caps going bad shortly afterwards. Seems like I could be chasing my tail constantly replacing bad caps!

My 62725 has been in the shop since Jan 6th for a new chassis and light engine. Had the wavy lines and a few other issues. Still waiting. Repair shop stated the other day that parts were still on order.

I got my WD-73736 last night!

Here is a picture of my setup in the basementhttp://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r189/milehirob/tv.jpg

How did you end up with an extra? Due to custom install? I don't need it, I'm just wondering. What I need is a color wheel, so if you know where I might find one, please let me know.
The repair company left it when they picked up my old 62525 for repair. Never got the TV back because it got replaced. It is in excellent condition.

Does anyone remember someone taking the most amazing pictures of their Mitsubishi tv? I can't remember where we posted the pictures, but he took several different movies being played on his tv.. the picture was amazingly clear and beautiful.. looked like something out of a brochure.

If anyone remember them, can you link the post? thanks!

dssturbo1,

I think we are on the exact same page of this process. My set just went bad (bglod), repair center came and picked it up and I am waiting for the official "diagnosis" to fax to Mits. Of course we all know the problem but it has to be official from the local Mits authorized service center. Unfortunately, the local guy is bent on repairing it himself at a tune of 300 dollars to replace the bad caps. The Mits customer care offered the chassis rebuild and I would much prefer that to paying 300 now and then other caps going bad shortly afterwards. Seems like I could be chasing my tail constantly replacing bad caps!

Have you checked to see if there is another Mits Authorized service center near you that you could calll and maybe get them to agree to work with you on the chassis rebuild if the guy that picked it up refuses?

Hi friends,

Ok here is what I have been through

I have a Mits WD-62725

Had the Green Light of Death on and off for a few months, finally just like everyone else, the system reset no longer brought it back to life.

Had 4 nice puffy Caps on the Power Supply board which I replaced.

Now when I plug in the unit the blinking green light goes off like it should, I power it up, the DLP lamp lights, stays lit for about 14 seconds get On screen display for 1 second and then the system shuts down,

Diagnostic code is 34 Lamp Abnormality

Lamp lights so I assume its good. What else would it be?

Peeked at the other board through cracks of housing cage and did not see any other problem caps so I assume I am ok there.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!


Anyone have any ideas here? I was told this is the best place to get help.

All fans are working, can't see how the thermisitor could be heating up in 10 seconds unless its completely bad. Can you jump it out?

Too bad the 34 diag code isn't very helpful. Your best bet is to replace all of the caps outlined in TBully's powerpoint file. Best yet, replace ALL smt caps on the DM and FMT boards and go from there. I only had an occasional 'failure to reset' on my tv, and it always cleared with a unplug/replug. But when I replaced the working factory original bulb, I would get no pic anymore. Had only four puffy caps (1000uF/16V variety), but I did a complete smt cap replacement since most of them measured bad. I had the faint wavy lines in the picture too with analog inputs. Oh, and failure code was also 34.

What happens when you press the reset button on the front of the set? Does it go through the reset cycle successfully?

My 62725 has been in the shop since Jan 6th for a new chassis and light engine. Had the wavy lines and a few other issues. Still waiting. Repair shop stated the other day that parts were still on order.

Your shop says your set needs a new chassis and a light engine??
Do you have an ext warranty or getting any help from Mits on the repairs?

I thought there were no "new" chassis available. Or did they send the chassis off to Mits for a complete rebuild? plus waiting on a light engine?

Anyone have any ideas here? I was told this is the best place to get help. All fans are working, can't see how the thermisitor could be heating up in 10 seconds unless its completely bad. Can you jump it out?

sorry but with so many known caps issues with these mits set you just can't peek through and tell if you have caps issues. many many reports of owners getting some caps repaired only for them to have issues again soon afterward.

That is why Mits now does a complete rebuild of the chassis sent into them for repair. They replace over 100 caps/parts. It's good you can try and repair it yourself but I would suggest if you want even close to a good repair that hopefully will last awhile that you get it diagnosed by a Mits service center tech and contact Mits to see about getting help/$ with your chassis sent into Mits for a complete rebuild.

if not there are good guys here like garciab and lcaillo and others to help point you in the right direction.

Have you checked to see if there is another Mits Authorized service center near you that you could calll and maybe get them to agree to work with you on the chassis rebuild if the guy that picked it up refuses?


I checked the other shop but they were about as clueless as they come. Wanted 300 to diagnose the problem and when I asked if they had heard about the problems they had no idea. I think I am just to tell the other guy he is welcome to repair it if he guarantees no problems for the next year, which he wont!

.... Has anyone recently got theirs back from a chassis rebuild (what I'm expecting them to do) and how long did it take?
What did we do about stuff like this before the internet and awesome forums like this one?

lciallo said the last chassis pull/send to Mits for rebuild/replace that he just finished with took 4 weeks total.

I checked the other shop but they were about as clueless as they come. Wanted 300 to diagnose the problem and when I asked if they had heard about the problems they had no idea. I think I am just to tell the other guy he is welcome to repair it if he guarantees no problems for the next year, which he wont!

hey a&m, keep trying to get it to Mits for the rebuild. your right that guy can't back up that it will work for a year if he repaired it........:(

as always no guarantees but if Mits does the complete chassis rebuild and you have more problems in the near future it might help with getting further assistance from Mits if it broke down again. There was at least one owner posted on the Cnet site who had gotten Mits to do a chassis rebuild but ran into more problems soon after and they finally got Mits to swap out for a new Mits LCD.

Your shop says your set needs a new chassis and a light engine??
Do you have an ext warranty or getting any help from Mits on the repairs?

I thought there were no "new" chassis available. Or did they send the chassis off to Mits for a complete rebuild? plus waiting on a light engine?

I have an extended warranty. I believe they are waiting on the light engine.

hey a&m, keep trying to get it to Mits for the rebuild. your right that guy can't back up that it will work for a year if he repaired it........:(

as always no guarantees but if Mits does the complete chassis rebuild and you have more problems in the near future it might help with getting further assistance from Mits if it broke down again. There was at least one owner posted on the Cnet site who had gotten Mits to do a chassis rebuild but ran into more problems soon after and they finally got Mits to swap out for a new Mits LCD.

Agreed. Its amazing how rampant this problem is. Have you faxed in your diagnostic paper and receipt to Mits yet? I wonder how long it will take to get an answer?

I really wish I lived in a larger city. The local guys are complete clowns! Now they say there is no way to rebuild the chassis locally and they must sent it to Mits and it will cost me over a grand. When I reiterated Mits would do the chassis rebuild they all but called me a liar and said there is no way that would happen. I might just have to get them to bring the TV back and drive to a repair shop Charlotte or Raleigh Durham!

Geez, just read a bit.

Take your estimate, call Mits Customer Relations and ask for some accomodation. The have no idea what Mits may or may not decide to do. The consumer has to talk to them. A servicer is not going to get anywhere, nor would the want to, with respect to warranty on a set this old. The make no money on the chassis rebuild if Mits does it for free.

Geez, just read a bit.

Take your estimate, call Mits Customer Relations and ask for some accomodation. The have no idea what Mits may or may not decide to do. The consumer has to talk to them. A servicer is not going to get anywhere, nor would the want to, with respect to warranty on a set this old. The make no money on the chassis rebuild if Mits does it for free.

???? I did READ, in fact I have read a large portion of this thread and numerous other threads at other forums. That is what I am trying to do! See my other posts before jumping down my throat!! Like I said before I have already talked to Mits and am waiting for the local estimate but they are not cooperating! BTW, they may not make money on the chassis rebuild but they do make 300 bucks for assembly. Figure 2-3 hours total time, not a bad hourly rate!

Who is the servicer? Are you saying that they will not give you an estimate? You said above that it would cost you $1K to have them send the chassis back. If the servicer will not give you a clear estimate and not cooperate, what does Mits say to this? Who are you speaking to at Mitsubishi?

Yes that's what I am saying. At first they said they would only repair it themselves, then they cant repair it but only Mits. I concurred and said that if they would send me an estimate I would get Mits to rebuild. They balked, said there is no way Mits will cover the repair and did not want to provide me with a written estimate. I then told them if that was a problem just to bring my TV back and I would go elsewhere. He then said he would call me back in a few days. I called 800-332-2119, have an open case but just need to fax the estimate and my receipt. Maybe they are concerned they will get stuck with a nonpaying customer if Mits doesnt pay.

The fan on top of the card chassis is on 24/7 - as long as the set is plugged in. Mine is a little noisy so I decided to check into it. The original fan manufacturer, Melco Technorex, is in Japan and does not have an English web page or catalog so it is likely a local firm with not much U.S. presence.

The specs look like: 92mm 130mA at 12VDC 2,030 RPM 25dbA and .98 m3/min flow. It has a three wire output but there s no spec on the third wire so I can't tell if it is a tach signal or locked rotor signal so I'll have to test.

Typically these type of fans have a mean time failure rate of about 50,000 hours or about 5.7 years. This means about half will fail by the 5.7 year mark so it is possible the fan can go at any time if you have more than four years on the set.

So in addition to changing out 100 or so caps figure changing the fan as well.

There is just no end to this misery.

I have the same issue with my 62825. It seems to get worse the longer the set is on. I'm assuming it's an issue with the caps because I also have the wavy line issue. I am getting ready to call Mit's customer service and see how far I can get with them (I don't have an extended warranty)

Yup, that's what's happening. It gets worse the longer it is on. What board should we tackle for this problem chrisbr66? Any comment Mr Icaillo? I'm thinking about getting the kit for the FMT board from this place: http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/index.php/cName/repair-kits

Agreed. Its amazing how rampant this problem is. Have you faxed in your diagnostic paper and receipt to Mits yet? I wonder how long it will take to get an answer?

hey A&M, nope they just picked it up Monday afternoon and told me it would be ~5 days before they could get back to me, they had 5 other sets on the truck they had already picked up for repair that day, 4 dlp and 1 plasma. They did collect the $120 pickup/diagnose/return fee before they left.

as i posted before my 62525 went out in march 2008 and had been sitting unplugged anyway so i've been in no hurry........back in the fall of 2007 when I had to replace the second lamp and clean the mirror again.....and reading even then how many Mits owners on here were having even worse issues like the caps failing I had purchased a 60" Pioneer Elite plasma so i was prepared, just another reason i had let it sit and not seen about it for the past 11 months.

I may stop by their shop Friday or Monday to talk to the shop manager. He had said they fix them in their shop but if Mits would cover it he would be happy to send it to them. i just want to talk to him in person and make sure it's all understood.

Out of warranty or case by case basis it should be expected of Mits where they are having such known huge failure rates on these sets that they would issue something like a service bulletin type message to all the "mits authorized service centers" so when the problem is diagnosed the center could be an actual help in the process instead of a hurdle.

Once I get the diagnosis I will mail it in with the purchase receipt and also receipts for the TWO lamps i have had to buy and pictures of the dirty internal mirror that has needed cleaning TWICE in the 3 years the set was working. Plus just to make sure they know I have been a good Mits customer, the serial numbers to my other Mits products that i still own and work fine unlike the 62525: 2 Mits Super VHS players, a Mits 35" FX1 tv, PLUS a brand new in the box Mits D-VHS 1100 recorder that i had bought just before the 62525 went out that i can't even use without the 62525!! Hopefully that might help them cover the entire labor and rebuild cost......i can dream....:)

dss,
You can actually fax your receipt and repair estimate to Mits. 949-609-4900. That's what I did late this afternoon. Supposedly Mits will contact me with an answer in 1-3 business days. Will see. I agree about the bulletin, they should have worked this out by now but I don't mind the hoops if they cover the cost. Don't even get me started on the mirror getting dirty. I have just been ignoring the blobs as we do most of the critical viewing in the theater. Hopefully when all is said and done I can get another 2 years out of her, otherwise I will be following in your footsteps with the Pioneer plasma. There beautiful!

I seem to remember reading that the "kit" (181P734043) consists of four replacement caps on the DM board to replace C81A2, C81A3, C81B3, C81B4 -- the four 1000uF 16 volt caps in the corner of the board which are often bulging or leaking. The kit simply has four 680 uF 16V caps (about $3.00) - nothing more.

My guess is that there is a major design error: the circuit is producing excessively high ripple current for the specified 1000 uF caps causing them to overheat, lose values, and quickly fail. Going to 680 uF reduces the cap's ripple current at the expense of increasing ripple voltage (NOISE) on the supply to the DM board chips.

This is sort of an interesting trade off -- reducing filtering performance margins a bit in an attempt to increase cap life. Bottom line is that a better spec 1000 uF low impedance caps are too big for the board -- a major design problem -- sort of between a hard spot and a rock. The 680uF caps do less in terms of circuit noise filtering margins but might get the set to work a bit longer since they are doing less "work" to reduce noise margins.

Sort of an "interesting" fix in my opinion.

I chose exactly the opposite strategy: I used four BIG 1200 uF Panasonic low impedance caps (in addition to upgraded caps back on the power supply board) tilted over parallel to, and on two at least, glued to the board. The Panasonics have lower impedance by design plus the greater uF reduces the impedance even further -- this reduces internal heating while increasing filtering.

My bet is the increase in ripple current with the bigger cap is more than offset by the lower impedance and the cap will run cooler -- adding to service life. The added uF will provide better filtering, improving the DM board's flaky performance.

After an hour of operation the four 1200 uF caps felt only slightly warm to the touch.

Your mileage may vary.

I have a Mitsubishi wd-62525 and I am having trouble with the lamp, here is the story. I got this TV from a friend that was getting rid of, when I got the TV I opened to see what was wrong with it and found out it need it a lamp, I purchased the lamp got it a week later and install it. When I installed the lamp I noticed the TV was not turning on, and it made a clicking noise, that noise that you hear when you hear sparks the same noise that you get when you are playing with electricity or turn on a gas cook top. I opened the TV again and reinstalled the lamp and the TV started working with perfect picture. 3 months later the picture started to lose brightness 2 weeks after that the TV was very dark and you could not watch TV it was too dark, so I removed the lamp and reinstalled it, the picture was the same, dark. After a few days when I turned on the TV, the TV started to make the same noise it made at the beginning the spark noise and then showed the red lamp light, after that I noticed that the spark noise was the lamp making a very low flashing light and then shut off. The TV never turned on after that just sound.
I purchased another lamp installed it and it worked right up for about hour, after that the TV suddenly turned off and the red lamp light appeared, when I tried to diagnose the problem (I removed the lamp door) I see that when I turn on the TV, the lamp turn on for 5 seconds then off then on for 5 seconds then off then on for 5 seconds then off and then the red light appears
I was reading the previous posts and checked the capacitors to see if they were swelled or leaking and they are ok
Any kind of information is greatly appreciated
Thanks

This is just a guess:

If you are hearing arcing and low light output it might be related to the high voltage power supply or the ballast that powers the lamp. Could be something as simple as a loose connector where the lamp plugs in. Also, make sure the door on the lamp compartment is on - there is an interlock switch in the lower right corner that keeps the set from starting if the door is not in place.

The power supply board takes the regular 120v wall voltage and boosts it up to about 340 volts and applies it to a separate unit called a ballast. The ballast actually starts up the lamp and powers it under computer command.

Usually there is a circuit that monitors the lamp current during start up. If it is out of spec due to a worn our lamp or other fault, the system will automatically shut down.

Assuming everything else is OK (bad assumption) there could be several sources to the problem: 1) high voltage power supply, 2) ballast, 3) computer monitor circuit that starts the lamp, and 4) one or more connectors between these.

On my set the computer would initially fire the lamp for a couple seconds, then turn off, then on again for three cycles then shut down altogether. The lamp, ballast, connectors, and high voltage power supply all checked out OK so the problem was related to the monitoring circuit. The problem went away after changing out about 100 or so capacitors - an impractical task in retrospect.

Note however that capacitors can appear OK but internally they no longer are working to spec.

Fixing the high voltage power supply should not be too expensive in terms of parts. A new ballast might be available for less than $100, not including labor. Even with these fixes the remaining service life might be **very** short -- these sets wear out after about four or five years and require an outrageously expensive rebuild to get them to work again. And so far, nobody knows how long the rebuilds will last.

One word of caution: leave the high voltage stuff to an expert. One little goof can be fatal.

Does anyone know what fixes the faint horizontal lines on hd channels and mostly seen on dvd movies played on a hdmi hookup? It is purple/bluish horizontal line especially on a dark scene when watching dvd with an hdmi hookup. Thanks for any info.

I have the same problem. It's bad capacitors, which seem to be the case with nearly all the problems these sets are having.

I have the same problem. It's bad capacitors, which seem to be the case with nearly all the problems these sets are having.

On which board?

On which board?

Do a search on this forum for this as there are a lot of posts on that point. A good place to start is the Powerpoint presentation posted by tbully.

On which board?

Well, here's the thing.. some of the problems have been pin-pointed to certain capicitors on specific boards, sort of, some have not. The best thing to do is replace them all. The reason being is that these sets were put together with bad caps all around, and while you may go in and replace a few that will fix one specific problem, chances are somewhere down the line other caps will fail causing new problems with the set. Tbully has posted a great run down on a cap replacement he did that fixed the wavy lines and blinking green light of death (BGLOD) --these are just a couple of the other things that go wrong with these sets-- The "purple pixels" have not been associated to a specific board or set of caps but have been fixed by Leeisfishing and Garciab with total and near total cap replacements. Garciab has posted a list of the caps he purchased and replaced about a page or two back.

Some people have had luck with getting Mits to rebuild the chassis for free, some at a reduced price, some have payed through the nose. Mits has been really inconsistant about this. Some have still been on warranty, some have been on the extended warranty, some have an expired warranty, and the amounts payed, or not, have been mixed up throughout all of those. I think it has a lot to do with who you talk to, and a bit of luck --speaking of luck, a few VERY lucky indivduals actually had the sets replaced!! WITH UP-GRADES!!
So you can either go that route, find a shop that works on these sets ( not a lot of people have had success with that one) or try the DIY way. I have chosen to do it myself. If you have any soldering experiance or are willing to take a little time to practice (I took an old computer apart for the boards to do this) it can be done at a small fraction of the cost and time it takes to go the other routes that is if you're not still on warranty or again really lucky with a customer service rep.

If you scroll back 10-20 pages you will find good advice on the different ways to go with this.

I just want to fix the problem for as little as possible and sell it. Mitsubishi should cover these junks, too bad I had to sue them to get something in return. This board is great for do it yourself. I learned to clean the mirror from someone's post and that made a big difference for the picture quality. I was about to sell it but found out about this stupid new problem. If anyone is looking for a new TV, I recommend the Samsung DLP's if you don't need a flat TV. I have the 61" Samsung 750 Series DLP and loving it.

You will likely get the same amount of cash piecing it out. Unless your area is different. These tv's are considered old tech, and unfortunately the problems are well known. 720p kinda kills their value, ime.

A quick/cheap fix might not be possible. You fix one thing and a few hours later something else can fail.

Not taking any chances I replaced about 100 or so caps plus added a couple cooling fans, plus some heat sinks on most of the ICs, and so far it has worked OK for about two weeks. I consider this good luck. To have a professional shop or a factory rebuild will likely cost as much as $1,000. And there are no guarantee that the fix will last more than a few months.

Still, it is not a total loss. These sets seem to go for about $100 or so on Craigslist listed as "need repair" -- probably a fair price. If you originally paid $4000 a few years ago it is a bit disappointing but some manufacturers design their products to last, others do not. See a recent edition of Consumer Reports which lists the results of something like 20,000 recent responses from TV owners regarding their sets. It ranks the replies by brand. Take a guess where Mitsubishi ranked.

My old Hitachi CRT based TV lasted almost 20 years and I'll keep the ten year old JVC in the spare bedroom as a backup. Will I brag about the "old days" when things were cheap and worked flawlessly for at least a decade? You bet.

Buyer beware.

I just got a used WD-52327 from a friend who replaced it with a 58" Samsung plasma and he asked if I was interested in buying or trading anything. I currently have a year old Panasonic 42" plasma as my main TV and had been thinking about getting a larger TV for our den since we used to have the plasma there and missed being able to watch TV from the kitchen. I moved the plasma to our upstairs entertainment area and while we do have 27" and 32" CRT's, they are both upstairs and a pain to move and I really wanted something at least as large as the plasma so we could see it in our den from our kitchen.

Anyway, I had watched the TV at his house and thought it was pretty nice so I traded him an iPod that I just won in a contest, a luggage rack for his that I just got for free, and a nice bottle of wine. He had changed the bulb recently so I think I got a pretty good deal. The SD quality of the Mitsubishi is not as good as the Panasonic but the HD quality is actually better than I thought it would be and I have ended up watching certain shows on the Mitsubishi instead of the Panasonic because I like the larger size. I stayed up until 2:00am the first night I got it this week and watched Transformers in HD on U-verse even though I have seen it about 5 times already.

Anyway, I appreciate all of the info in this thread and will be slowly going through it since it is so long, which is a good thing, as I want to be aware of what to watch out for and what to do about it. I downloaded the manual tonight and am reading through it so I can see if it tells me how to look up how many hours it has run. If not, I am sure I can find it in this thread. The only negative thing I can say about it right now is that the fan or wheel is noisy and I have to turn up the volume a bit more than I would like to cover it up so I hope that is just normal for a TV of this age. It was made in Dec of 2004 and purchased in Dec of 2005 by friend.

I am enjoying it and am glad that I didn't end up spending the money for a new "second" TV when I think, or hope, that this will do fine for awhile. However, I am still tempted by the good deals I am finding on the larger Mitsubishi's and Samsung LED DLP's because $1600 for a 63" is a pretty awesome deal.

Does anyone know what fixes the faint horizontal lines on hd channels and mostly seen on dvd movies played on a hdmi hookup? It is purple/bluish horizontal line especially on a dark scene when watching dvd with an hdmi hookup. Thanks for any info.

Here's what the picture look like:

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/mdevera211/DSC01937.jpg

A streak of blue,purple,red, white that goes across horizontally.


MD929, i've had this problem with tv for a very long time now. A 62525. It gets worse as time goes on. About 2 months ago i had the BGLOD problem and i replaced the 2 3300uf caps on the power board and the BGLOD went away however this problem was still present. Then i replaced 12 1000uf caps on the DM, SMT and PS board only the come straight back to the BLGOD problem. I think the new surge of full power had over stressed the older, weaker caps. I knew that i needed to change small surface mount caps from here on out and i did not have the patience to deal with it and start soldering all those little guys. I called Mits and they gave me phone numbers to nearby certified repair shops as they also said they would provide aid for repair costs since i was out of warranty. I called one guy and he came out the same day ( i guess business is slow). He assured me he can fix it, he agreed to repair it for $400. He assured me it would be no problem. He took the tv and called me 2 days later saying it was done. When i got it back, his invoice listed and his tech said they replaced 71 100uf caps on various boards in the chassis. The tv now runs like brand new. My blue/purple interference is gone (one like you've got), I had the wavy line issue on the component connections and of course the BGLOD is fixed. So my suggestion to you is to send it for a rebuild or have a shop start that process. IF you want to do it yourself, then order up a bunch of surface mount caps and start going to town and replacing as many as you can, perhaps using Tbully's powerpoint as a guideline to the more important ones. There is no telling which ones are bad without the proper equipment.

I just ordered the FMT board kit because that's the board that likely it's coming from according to some of the post that I've read here and other forum. Also that's what was suggested by the tech I'm buying the kit from. Hope that will fix the problem. These tvs have so many problems, I've had the BLOG or was it red blinking light? and couple of capacitor replacement from the DM board or power board? I can't remember which one but it took care of that problem. I was out of warranty but I made mitsubishi pay for the repair. I feel that these tvs were lemons and I demanded they fix it. They sent somebody out to take a look at the BLOG problem and that tech tried to tell me that it was the light engine and it was gonna cost over $1000. I told his boss that I think he misdiagnosed the tv and told him what I found out from other owners that it was the 2 capacitors in the power board that was causing the problem and that ended up fixing the problem.

Have a WD52725 purchased in November 04 with extended warranty:D. TV completely dead with red solid light on August 08. tech changed bulb:confused: and no change, I emailed tech this thread, as well as warranty company. Tech removed chassis and sent to Mit for rebuild. Mit replaced over 200 parts and chassis re-installed over 90 days from removal. TV failed again within 1 week :eek: and soft reset or power removal required for TV viewing. Also received check air flow message TV is shutting down, sometimes. Tech came out and said Fan heat sensor is most likely bad and will check with warranty company (tweeter) and recommend replacement of TV :). TV fails 1-5 times a day and we hope to have a replacement soon.

Great thread for consumers to forward to techs, Mitsubishi and warranty companies.

thanks to all !!!!!!

Mits approved my chassis repair today! I'm only out labor (a ridiculous 300 bucks). Maybe I can get them to throw in a mirror cleaning for that rate. Hopefully I wont have recurring problems like some others have. I would like 2 more years minimum out of the set as I would rather upgrade my projector! I gotta give Mitsubishi credit for doing the right thing. Most CE companies would tell you to stick it. Nobody makes a perfect product! My Samsung DLP was a total joke!

Ridiculous $300? Two trips and the labor to remove and re-install the chassis? Sounds like about $75 per hour, which is very reasonable.

Whatever. You were up in my face for "not reading" when you were the one who did not read my posts. Now this. I don't know what your issue is. Anyways, they did make the trip but I had to move the entertainment center myself and help load the tv. Plus pay 60 diagnostic fee. Sounds like it doesn't take more than an hour for an experienced tech to remove the boards. Plus the amount of time I have spent on the phone explaining to them what to do. 400 bucks after tax is a lot of money considering I did all the leg work researching the problem and all they did was remove some screws!

Ever tried to run a business? Ever tried to deal with Mitsubishi parts and warranty?

I apologize for not being more aware of your previous posts.

As a servicer, however, I will not do one of these for less than $300. I can understand why others charge more. That hardly covers the time and we make nothing on parts. You also take a large risk on a job like this that your credit line will be tied up when Mits denies the warranty claim or screws up the credits to your account. The accounting alone makes a job like this hardly worth doing. Mitsubishi has one of the most nonsensical accounting systems of any vendor. They regularly mess up accounts and credits. One department does not understand what the other is doing, and you have to deal with at least three of them on these jobs.

There is no excuse for the servicer being intransigent. If they don't want to do the job in the most effective way they should not take it on. There is, however, no problem justifying their rate as you describe it. Shops have lots of expenses to cover that you never see.

. . . . trying this in a different thread . . .

I have a 52525 that I purchased nearly 5 years ago. As usual my the TV stops working when I am not home so I am not 100% sure exactly what happened, but I am fairly confident no one was messing with my reciever or other settings so I am pretty sure it is a TV problem.

1. Person was watching the TV and the picture started to roll. It continued rolling faster and faster, but the material was still somewhat viewable.
2. It eventually got so bad it turned into a full screen of green wavey lines. Now it all looks the same even changing channels. Can't even see my receiver's set up screen let alone DVDs.
3. After turning off and on, resetting several times and unplugging entriely a couple of time I got not picutre at all and the red light came on indicating I need a new bulb.
4. I turned it on again a day later and I was back to green wavey lines.
5. I can still see the net command screens, but I am seeing green lines popping through the display.

Thoughts on what the problem is?? I have been sifting through this and other posts and don't see anything that matches this exactly. I have over a year left on my warranty so I am good there. I am going to call for service tomorrow, but I want to know what is likely to be the issue before the tech shows up so I know what to expect. Also looking for a possible 'quick fix'.

Thoughts?

MD929, i've had this problem with tv for a very long time now. A 62525. It gets worse as time goes on. About 2 months ago i had the BGLOD problem and i replaced the 2 3300uf caps on the power board and the BGLOD went away however this problem was still present. Then i replaced 12 1000uf caps on the DM, SMT and PS board only the come straight back to the BLGOD problem. I think the new surge of full power had over stressed the older, weaker caps. I knew that i needed to change small surface mount caps from here on out and i did not have the patience to deal with it and start soldering all those little guys. I called Mits and they gave me phone numbers to nearby certified repair shops as they also said they would provide aid for repair costs since i was out of warranty. I called one guy and he came out the same day ( i guess business is slow). He assured me he can fix it, he agreed to repair it for $400. He assured me it would be no problem. He took the tv and called me 2 days later saying it was done. When i got it back, his invoice listed and his tech said they replaced 71 100uf caps on various boards in the chassis. The tv now runs like brand new. My blue/purple interference is gone (one like you've got), I had the wavy line issue on the component connections and of course the BGLOD is fixed. So my suggestion to you is to send it for a rebuild or have a shop start that process. IF you want to do it yourself, then order up a bunch of surface mount caps and start going to town and replacing as many as you can, perhaps using Tbully's powerpoint as a guideline to the more important ones. There is no telling which ones are bad without the proper equipment.
Did Mitsubishi pick up the whole repair bill?

I am having a similar problem with the red light in front, I got a new lamp installed and the TV wont work, I opened the TV and I see that when I turn on the TV the ballast sends the current to the lamp for 3 seconds then shuts down, lamps is turned on for 3 seconds; it seems like if after the 3 seconds the lamp start to get more current and then shuts down. It does this process 3 times and then I get a red light.

Here is what I have tried
1) I have checked the capacitors to see if there is leakage or abnormality (None)

2) I have measure the test points (Little Tabs) on the power supply board (All voltages ok) voltages on 3 tabs had o be checked when TV was turning on, otherwise will show very low voltage. “Tabs 5v, 12v, 3.3v.” Tab 5v showed .8v (when TV was plugged but turned off) tabs 12v, 3.3 showed 0v.

3) I have checked the current on the j9 cable (all voltages ok) same thing voltage had to be checked when TV as turning on otherwise 0 voltage

4) I have tested the lamp (OK)

5) I have checked the current on the cable that goes to the ballast (ok 345v)

6) I have made a major inspection of the unit all cables connected

I want to know if the problem might still be the capacitors so i can buy them and change them
or if the problem is something like the light engine or the ballast card
This TV when is working gives me great picture and I want to fix it.
Any help, advice is appreciated

Capacitors exposed to excessive ripple currents will degrade over time and eventually no longer work as intended. Sometimes they overheat, bulge, then leak. Sometimes they don't. You can't tell just by looking. The way to know is to test the cap for uF value, effective series resistance, and leakage. Often the cap has to be removed from the board for an accurate test. This, of course would be a huge task. And it doesn't make sense to put old caps back in once removed So, as mentioned elsewhere, assume most of them are out of spec and change them out. I replaced all 47uF and above (those likely exposed to high ripple current) and the set has been working for almost three weeks with no problem (except the fans are noisy indicating they too will need to be replaced).

Others recommend changing out ALL the caps -- something like 200 or so? Even then there is not much info on how long the set will last thereafter. Obviously the replacement caps of the same value and specs will fail again, just like the originals -- its just a matter of time.

Capacitors exposed to excessive ripple currents will degrade over time and eventually no longer work as intended. Sometimes they overheat, bulge, then leak. Sometimes they don't. You can't tell just by looking. The way to know is to test the cap for uF value, effective series resistance, and leakage. Often the cap has to be removed from the board for an accurate test. This, of course would be a huge task. And it doesn't make sense to put old caps back in once removed So, as mentioned elsewhere, assume most of them are out of spec and change them out. I replaced all 47uF and above (those likely exposed to high ripple current) and the set has been working for almost three weeks with no problem (except the fans are noisy indicating they too will need to be replaced).

Others recommend changing out ALL the caps -- something like 200 or so? Even then there is not much info on how long the set will last thereafter. Obviously the replacement caps of the same value and specs will fail again, just like the originals -- its just a matter of time.

Whats the best way to avoid these ripple currents? A power conditioner I assume. Any recs?

I am having a similar problem with the red light in front, I got a new lamp installed and the TV wont work, I opened the TV and I see that when I turn on the TV the ballast sends the current to the lamp for 3 seconds then shuts down, lamps is turned on for 3 seconds; it seems like if after the 3 seconds the lamp start to get more current and then shuts down. It does this process 3 times and then I get a red light.

Here is what I have tried
1) I have checked the capacitors to see if there is leakage or abnormality (None)

2) I have measure the test points (Little Tabs) on the power supply board (All voltages ok) voltages on 3 tabs had o be checked when TV was turning on, otherwise will show very low voltage. “Tabs 5v, 12v, 3.3v.” Tab 5v showed .8v (when TV was plugged but turned off) tabs 12v, 3.3 showed 0v.

3) I have checked the current on the j9 cable (all voltages ok) same thing voltage had to be checked when TV as turning on otherwise 0 voltage

4) I have tested the lamp (OK)

5) I have checked the current on the cable that goes to the ballast (ok 345v)

6) I have made a major inspection of the unit all cables connected

7) i get code 34 lamp abnormality

I want to know if the problem might still be the capacitors so i can buy them and change them
or if the problem is something like the light engine or the ballast card
This TV when is working gives me great picture and I want to fix it.
Any help, advice is appreciated

one more thing
when i remove the lamp and turn on the TV the ballast does the same thing again it tries to start the lamp even when the lamp is removed and disconnected it does this 3 times before showing the red light. When the ballast is trying to start the lamp and the lamp is disconnected i can see on the ballast circuit board a flashing light next to were the big cables that go to the lamp are.

lciallo said the last chassis pull/send to Mits for rebuild/replace that he just finished with took 4 weeks total.

The warranty company (Electrasound) sent someone out on Wednesday (only one person so I did have to help him spin the set around) and he said he was VERY familiar with the issue. Pulled the chassis in about 40 minutes and said they'd call when it came back. I recieved a call from them yesterday (Monday) and the chassis is back already. I was shocked as he didn't leave here until well after 7:30 Wed night so it couldn't have shipped until Thursday! They didn't have an open time to install it until Friday so I won't know until then if it's really fixed. They couldn't tell me for certain where the chassis was sent to or if it's the same one coming back so I don't know if it went to Mits or their own service center. So far I'm impressed with the quick turnaround, now I just hope it's really fixed and not just bandaided or something.

Ripple current is applied to capacitors in the course of doing their normal filtering job -- it is function of basic circuit design, not usually related to external forces or conditions. Except for redesigning the power supply and distribution across circuit boards we are stuck. Here is what I recall on the subject (please feel free to make corrections):

Capacitors are often used as filters in several places.

First, the power supply basically converts the AC wall outlet voltage to pulsed direct current "DC" voltage with rising peaks and falling valleys. However, circuits require a somewhat constant and smooth DC voltage without the voltage peaks and valleys. To smooth out the peaks and valleys capacitors are used sort of like short term batteries: the voltage forces current into the capacitor on the peaks then the capacitor discharges current out on the valleys. This alternating charge and discharge on each cycle results in a more-or-less constant voltage -- hence the swings are "filtered" out. Simply put - capacitors convert varying pulsed voltages into more constant voltages by constantly charging and discharging.

Second, capacitors are used is to filter out the noise created by the circuits themselves, especially digital circuits. Digital chips switch from "ones", often 3 or 5 volts, to "zeros", close to ground potential. In doing so there is a tiny short circuit in the transition which causes a glitch on the power lines. Again, capacitors charge a little when the voltage glitches rise in voltage and discharge a little when the voltage drops - absorbing the pulses and providing a more constant voltage. Often these are very high speed pulses but they can add up.

Another place where capacitors are used is where there are long-ish or smallish conductors (wires and circuit traces) between the power supply and where the power is actually used. The lines add resistance and tend to increase voltage swings -- surges and sags. Capacitors "stiffen" up the local voltage to reduce these swings again by charging up on the surges and discharging on the sags thus keeping the supply more constant.

Depending on the original design capacitors can degrade either quickly or slowly -- they have a defined life span. If the filtering degrades far enough the unfiltered pulses can disrupt the circuits operation causing instability or failure to work entirely. Such instability is hard to diagnose and will likely vary somewhat in symptoms between circuits.

Capacitors are not perfect in their charge and discharge characteristics. Some of the current is "lost" due to the internal resistance (actually impedance) to the current flow in and out. Like any other resistance, the lost current is converted to heat. The greater the current, the more heat is generated inside the capacitor which then has to be transferred to the surrounding air. There is a very linear relationship between capacitor temperature and lifespan so it is easy to predict. So capacitors are, in part, rated according to how much current they can absorb and discharge and the resulting heat stress. At maximum ratings capacitors are rated between 1,000 to as high as 8,000 hours before going out of specification. That is about about 41-333 days of 24/7 operation. Obviously to get reasonable lifespan for a consumer product capacitors have to be used under far less stressful conditions -- all decided at the time the system is designed.

Therefore, engineers have to carefully figure the expected lifespan of the capacitor and THEN select accordingly: capacity, maximum ripple current, internally generated temperature rise, and the temperature of the surrounding air. And then for a reasonable service life capacitors have to be "de-rated" -- that is, they have to be selected with greater margins than their maximum ratings. Such caps turn out to be physically big in size so they take up valuable space on the circuit boards. And, of course, they are also more expensive than capacitors with lesser specifications.

So it all comes down to cost vs lifespan.

Left to themselves engineers would likely opt for lots of big, cool running, long life, high reliability capacitors. They are usually proud of their designs and want them to last. And, if given the choice of adding $20 in high reliability and long life caps to the cost of a $4,000 TV, it would be a no-brainier for the consumer.

So you have to wonder what the strategy is with TVs that only last four years -- its certainly not building loyal customers thats for sure.

The warranty company (Electrasound) sent someone out on Wednesday (only one person so I did have to help him spin the set around) and he said he was VERY familiar with the issue. Pulled the chassis in about 40 minutes and said they'd call when it came back. I recieved a call from them yesterday (Monday) and the chassis is back already. I was shocked as he didn't leave here until well after 7:30 Wed night so it couldn't have shipped until Thursday! They didn't have an open time to install it until Friday so I won't know until then if it's really fixed. They couldn't tell me for certain where the chassis was sent to or if it's the same one coming back so I don't know if it went to Mits or their own service center. So far I'm impressed with the quick turnaround, now I just hope it's really fixed and not just bandaided or something.

wow that's a great turnaround for a chassis/cap issue. they either did it in house or got another chassis to replace it with. I would be worrired they did it in house and just replaced enough to get it working for now. But you do have the warranty and have to go by how they want to fix the issue.

The service center i talked to said they could do it in house but i respectfully declined and asked that they will send it to mits once it's diagnosed and Mits approves they will pay for it.

....Thoughts on what the problem is?? I have been sifting through this and other posts and don't see anything that matches this exactly. I have over a year left on my warranty so I am good there. I am going to call for service tomorrow, but I want to know what is likely to be the issue before the tech shows up so I know what to expect. Also looking for a possible 'quick fix'.....

as discussed many times through these owners threads, these mits sets have bad capacitor issues, seems like they are not engineered right and/or due to Mits using cheap capacitors/parts. A few of the main caps are usually the common problem BUT there are so many other caps that also are having problems that it is very hard to pinpoint it and therefore they cause various and random picture issues as you have seen on your set. some owners have made quick fixes with replacement of some of those caps but it usually comes back with more issues in the future because not all of the problem were actually fixed. the bad cap issue is like a cancer in these sets, you may get a quick fix but there are so many other caps having their own problems that they will cause future problems.

Mits is having such a high failure rate and it is such a known issue with these sets that they are helping some owners that are years out of the mits warranty period by doing a complete rebuild on the chassis and replacing over 100+ caps on the boards. It's a case by case basis so those owners need to be prepared to go through the hoops to get any help at all.

Your still in your ext warranty, so call and have it diagnosed and ask to have the chassis sent to mits for a rebuild. You have a better chance of getting a replacement through your warranty company in case it fails again.

Mits approved my chassis repair today! I'm only out labor (a ridiculous 300 bucks). Maybe I can get them to throw in a mirror cleaning for that rate. Hopefully I wont have recurring problems like some others have. I would like 2 more years minimum out of the set as I would rather upgrade my projector! I gotta give Mitsubishi credit for doing the right thing. Most CE companies would tell you to stick it. Nobody makes a perfect product! My Samsung DLP was a total joke!

hey a&m, thats good news. How did the service center word the diagnosis/report on your set? was it the one with the $1000 estimate?

So you got your tv diagnosed with caps issues, faxed that into Mits (who you had already called and had a case opened with) and they approved that they would pay for and perform the chassis rebuild when the mits service center sends it to them. Once they approved the chassis rebuild did they take over the process, contact the service center to get it dealt?

So now your just doing the wait for it to be sent in/rebuilt/sent back, installed in your Mits and returned in good working order to you........cool. hope they don't take too long.

Thanks for the background! I feel like I have been reading about bad capacitors for days, people fixing them and getting chassis rebuilt, but I couldn't ever figure out the symptom. Now I know that is my problem and when the repair guy comes Sat I will see if I can work for a chassis rebuild. I will also use this post for validation they will do it. Based on past experience I am concerned the repair tech will only want to replace a few capacitors.

Not sure what I would do if I was out of warranty. I would have no idea how to replace capacitors and end up going through the same hoops as everyone else with Mitz only to get another couple of years. Bummer my $$$ power filter with NN banks didn't help. I am thinking I wasted my money on that if the TV is going to crap out after 5 years anyway. (great summary earlier)

hey a&m, thats good news. How did the service center word the diagnosis/report on your set? was it the one with the $1000 estimate?

So you got your tv diagnosed with caps issues, faxed that into Mits (who you had already called and had a case opened with) and they approved that they would pay for and perform the chassis rebuild when the mits service center sends it to them. Once they approved the chassis rebuild did they take over the process, contact the service center to get it dealt?

So now your just doing the wait for it to be sent in/rebuilt/sent back, installed in your Mits and returned in good working order to you........cool. hope they don't take too long.

Essentially. The total estimate was slightly over 1000 and the diagnosis was "R & R chassis rebuild" which I faxed to Mits. They called to tell me it was approved and they would call the repair center. The local repair center will not take Mits word and requires written confirmation for which I am waiting. Of course its been another 3 days! Then the repair guys will request a box from Mits to send the parts. They don't wont to be liable if something happens in shipping. They say it will take a week to get the box. Then the chassis is sent to Mits in Georgia (US). Rebuild I have been told is anywhere from 1-4 weeks. Then back for testing locally. I am two weeks in and don't expect it much before the end of 2 months. Lots of time researching and waiting on hold! Hopefully the set will last.

as usual not great with a camera but here's some pics of my mits WD 62525 with the problems. taken a couple days before it was picked up on 2/16/2009 by the Mits service center and still waiting on the diagnosis report to send to Mits.

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/2536/img3178.jpg

http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/3426/img3181.jpg

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/7926/img3182.jpg

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/2617/img3184.jpg

Did Mitsubishi pick up the whole repair bill?


I have faxed them but have not heard back from them yet Chris. I'm sure my paperwork is making its way from the top of one "to do" box to the next and it might have to change hands 5 times before someone makes a decision. It's all good, i'm a patient man. I will keep you informed however.

My set was taken away for a chassis rebuild but had a question that was not answered. My set was experiencing many problems and would like to know if this will be fixed with the chassis replacement. The set had lines across the screen that seem to be the worst with analog inputs. There was also a black spot the size of a dime on the lower right cornor of the screen. At times the set had to be unplug in order to turn it off. No response from the front buttons. The remote died just before this all a happened. Lastly the lamp light would randomly start flashing then stop with no action from me. One more thing the enter button the front control does not repsond.

the set has been taken away so I guess I will see. Thank God for an exented warranty since the repair guy gave me a quick qoute of $1000.00 without even looking at the other problems. From what I am hearing I hope the price to fix is to high for Philips to want to repair and get me something else.

Thanks in advance

Well here we are with the newly repaired tv only to have the repair guys take away as soon as they turned it on. The wavy lines are now much worse. Techs response nice job Mitsubishi. Not sure what to do at this point. Trying to decide if a phone call to Mitsubishi is called for. Not sure that would get me any where anyway. What a load of crap they have with this beast.

I am having an issue with purple vertical lines and purple diagonal lines. I called Mitsubishi service and they stated they would probably pay for the parts. A new circuit board and caps and I would have to pay for the labor. Is this worth it?

I am having an issue with purple vertical lines and purple diagonal lines. I called Mitsubishi service and they stated they would probably pay for the parts. A new circuit board and caps and I would have to pay for the labor. Is this worth it?

What number do you have for them. I am tired of this already.

I called the main customer service number.

Hi all,

I live in the DFW area. It seems many people on this forum are DIYers. I'm hoping to find someone on this forum that would help me repair my WD52525.

I've searched the forum and could not find my specific problem. It may be here and I'm not using the correct terminology. I'm also thinking my set may have multiple problems.

I've had my WD52525 since Sept. 04. The set quit in Dec. 07. I took it to RAC in Flower Mound, TX (at that time Irving, TX) and they replaced 3 caps on the power board. Last week it quit again. It would come on and play audio for about 1 min. then quit and the RED light would come on. I took it back to RAC and they replaced the lamp. It worked fine until this morning.

This A.M. it would not turn on. I did a soft reset (unplug/plug) from the wall outlet. Afterwards it came on but all I get is a BLUE SCREEN. I tried to reinitialize (press 2,4,7,0) with no luck. I pressed the DEVICE/MENU and got a code 12 (set is OK).

I also tried pressing the reset button. When I did, the set flashed for over 10 minutes. I finally unplugged the set. When I plugged it back in the light flashed for 1 minute then stopped.

I turned on the set again and got the blue screen. At this point I called RAC. They said they had never heard of getting a blue screen with a code 12 and didn't know what to suggest other than to bring it in.

Does this sound like multiple problems, one problem, a chassis rebuild or what? If RAC hasn't experienced this problem I'm not sure I want to take it to them and prefer to find someone here who is experienced with this unit... or... is there some other repair shop you would suggest.

I can solder (wires, etc.) and know the basics of an ohm meter but I am not savvy enough to do the board level work necessary to DIY. Any help is greatly appreciated as I really love the picture on this set. I spent a lot for this set and want to get my money's worth. Besides I have yet to see a LCD that looks as good.

Thanks for taking the time to read this and providing your help/thoughts.

jdarwin, yes, you are having multiple problems.......it's called bad capacitors.

needing a lamp replacement in between the problems could just be an added coincidence. Is that the first lamp you have needed since the set was new?

as i generally explained above in post #6377 many many caps in these mits sets are going bad. it is like an electrical ghost/demon/gremlin. that's why you have the multiple varying problems. get a repair with just 3, 5 or 10 of them and you still have many other capacitors in the system that seem ok but are not working properly, that leads to new issues soon in the future. if you need a better technical explanation just read some of the post by r pogo, garciab, lciallo and others back through the thread pages.

contact Mits, should be easier to get a case opened with the recent repairs, lamp replacement and now new problems. hopefully they will help you get a chassis rebuild.

Thanks dssturbo1. You really helped. I'll check these other posts and contact Mits about a chassis rebuild.

To answer your question about the lamp. It had almost 5K hours on it. Is that good, bad or avg.?

Thanks again for all the help. I'll post my experiences with Mits.

hey jd, your welcome.

on the lamp, the avg hours is ~6000 but varies alot. my first one lasted almost 9000 and the second one only 5000, so a 7000 hour avg on my first 2 lamps.

When I was trying to explain my problems to Mits and told them it was unplugged for 11 months the lady told me that was harmful to the lamp.......???????? no clue if she was factually right so it seems damned if ya do damned if ya don't. i could be wrong but i didn't really believe her, just seemed something else they were trying to blame my sets issues on instead of the caps problems. alot of new lamps are sitting on shelfs for a long time before being bought for replacements.

wow that's a great turnaround for a chassis/cap issue. they either did it in house or got another chassis to replace it with. I would be worrired they did it in house and just replaced enough to get it working for now. But you do have the warranty and have to go by how they want to fix the issue.

The service center i talked to said they could do it in house but i respectfully declined and asked that they will send it to mits once it's diagnosed and Mits approves they will pay for it.

Well, the tech brought the re-built chassis out yesterday (he said they send them back to Mits but they now have enough "in the loop" that they get replacement refurbed chassis back pretty quickly). After he installed it and turned it on it never fired the lamp and got a red lamp light after about 2 minutes. He tore back into it and unfortunately I had other stuff going on so I had to leave him to himself for a while. After a couple hours he said it was fixed and showed me that it fired up with picture (it was still turned about so I didn't really have anything hooked up to it). He was in a hurry since this took so long and said he didn't have time to help me spin it around and wait for me to get stuff hooked back up to it, so I signed his paperwork and off he went. He did tell me the problem with the lamp was a connector on the ballast board that got pulled sideways when the other tech was taking the chassis out.

I had my wife help me turn it around after dinner last night and as soon as I plugged it back in (while the green light is blinking) it started popping through the speakers. It stopped when the green light quit blinking but as soon as I turn it on the it stats again. It doesn't matter what source is being shown but if the audio is up at all off of mute it pops and there is no source audio (very consistently and at the same audio level no matter what the volume is set to - sounds like a power supply switching or something similar to me). Of course by now it's too late to call them back until Monday morning. I suspect a connection was loose and the process of turning the TV around pulled it apart.

The other thing I noticed is that, while the picture looks very nice, I'm going to have to dig up how to get into the service menus again as I worked a LONG time to make adjustments to mitigate the keystone effects that this set (and the one before it) have had from day one. Mits says those are "within the specifications" that they can't produce a written copy of so they won't do anything about it.

If I thought I could get $800 for this thing without ripping someone off I would sell it in a hearbeat and buy a Kuro to replace it before they are all gone.

I did a little search and can't find any information that lamps have a limited "shelf life." In fact, at least one retailer suggests they keep forever.

In addition it is common practice for set manufacturers, Mitsubishi included, to offer a free lamp with the purchase of a projector. It would be unlikely that they would do this if, five years later, the free lamp would fail prematurely and damage the set.

The lamps are sealed tightly under pressure and the materials are designed for severe operating conditions. It would seem **very** unlikely that sitting on the shelf would have any affect on the internal components, materials, or pressurization of the lamp. Lamp condition is monitored at every startup and the monitoring circuit and ballast protects both the lamp and the set from damage.

Anytime someone offers to switch the blame for some failure on to the user it is usually a con. Ask the person the exact reasoning behind the assertion and who to contact to verify that the information is correct. When you get evasive answers and no info on who to contact it is a good clue you are being conned. Still, if the answer is reasonable and you get a number to call, verify anyway. A true professional con game works on the assumption you won't ever check. Then report the facts to the BBB.

If I thought I could get $800 for this thing without ripping someone off I would sell it in a hearbeat and buy a Kuro to replace it before they are all gone.

That may be hard to get. The last Mits DLP - I think 52725 - I saw on Ebay (fully functional) had a buy it now price of $500.

im buying 65'' mitsubishi dlp model#WD-65735 i would like to know if i can hook my dell laptop to the tv and if i can which converter box will i need and what cables do i need. thank you

im buying 65'' mitsubishi dlp model#WD-65735 i would like to know if i can hook my dell laptop to the tv and if i can which converter box will i need and what cables do i need. thank you

lol, wrong owners thread but basic question.

depends on what video outputs your dell laptop has. What model Dell lapto do you have?
Most laptops have at least some options such as S-video, VGA, DVI or even a HDMI output for video.

so check your dell and see which it has. then you can check specs for the 65735 to make sure which it accepts and get the needed cables at monoprice.com they have a big selection, excellent prices and ship fast.

you may also need Red/White rca cables for the sound connection.

thanks r pogo. yes, it certainly seemed like the mits rep was trying to blame other conditions for the problem.

ok, heading to the Mits service center now, didn't get by there last week and no call either from them. They have had my 6252 for 2 weeks with no diagnosis yet. I told them no rush but they did say 5 days to check it, so it's time to check in on them.

Light Engine......lciallo, r pogo or anyone who has knowledge of LE problems.

what problems occur when a LE goes bad?? does it just go out (blank screen/no pic) and need replacement or does it cause pic problems on screen?

just wondering cause when i was describing the problems on my 62525 (pics on previous page) to the tech that picked it up, I kept mentioning the known caps issues and he kinda mumbled that it maybe a light engine. of course i didn't want to hear that I wanted it to be the bad capacitor issue so I could hopefully get Mits to at least rebuild the chassis......... when they picked it up it wasn't plugged in, when i had tried earlier that morning it wasn't coming on with a pic. the pictures i posted on the previous page were taken 2 days prior to when they actual came to pick it up.

I don't want it misdiagnosed and IF it truly is a light engine problem thats fine but i'm most certain it has the bad cap problems.

Note: I did stop by the mits service center and the shop manager apologized and said he would have a diagnosis for me tomorrow on Tuesday. I showed him the pics of the problems and he just said , Yes, thats the classic problem.........ok, seemed kinda like a canned answer but no biggie. he then said they had sent 1-2 to mits for repairs which is not what he told me on the phone a couple weeks ago. When i first talked to him he had told me no they hadn't sent any to Mits, they had repaired several of them in house but he would be happy to send my chassis in if Mits approved it.

I thought I would reply back on what the warranty tech did with my TV that dssturbo1 targeted as a capacitor problem.

That was indeed the case. I mentioned sending to mits and replacing all the caps. He just about laughed be out of the room and told me Mits would never do that. I figured that is what he would say. He replaced about 8 of them, did a little more poking around and told me I was good to go. I mentioned the concern I would have a similar problem in a couple of months and he doubted it saying he has fixed these 100s of times and rarely has a problem. I have another year+ on my warranty so we will see.

For everyone frustrated with these sets: I asked him if he would recommend a different brand given he works on several and he said Mits was as good as any and to get 4 years with 0 service calls is pretty good. I can't validate that one way or the other, but that was his take.

yep, techs laughed at me too when I said Mits would repair it. I guess there are lots of models of tvs but you would think an "authorized tech" would have some clue. Glad we have the internet since clearly they are not out there investigating what options are available for the consumer. I think if tv repair was what I did for a living I would be aware of these forums and not just disregard them as junk or false information like my guys did. Oh well. My tv is finally being sent out tommorrow, three weeks after being picked up from my house.

Yes, light engines go bad. I opened up the light engine on one of my sets to see the color wheel had disintegrated, resulting in a tablespoon of glass shards in the bottom of the assembly. I didn't go any further I so don't know much. It was toast.

However, this is what I imagine:

The light engine assembly appears to be a stand-alone system with a DVI connector in addition to a bunch of wires off the main chassis. The DVI connector suggests that it performs much of the work to decode the digital video signal and feed it to the mirror/chip which, in combination with the color wheel, actually does the real work of projecting the image. I would imagine that there are countless failure modes that can produce anything from mildly distorted to scrambled to a totally blank screen. However, so far the supporting light engine electronics don't seem to share the capacitor problem previously described. It might, in fact, be manufactured separately by another Mitsu subsidiary or a separate sub contractor. In my case the problem was a loud grinding noise as the remaining color panes ground up the broken glass debris.

The good news is that if the light engine is replaced and the problems are not solved, then the process of elimination will eventually lead to a solution.

I'm keeping an eye on Craigslist to find a set to salvage. One with bad caps should have a good light engine, plus maybe a new lamp (replaced in error due to the flashing LED). The going rate for a "needs repair" set ranges from free to $150. So $75 seems about right. Eventually I'll simply swap in a new color wheel and motor and see if it works as a spare. Good luckj

I did a little search and can't find any information that lamps have a limited "shelf life." In fact, at least one retailer suggests they keep forever.

In anything that has a vacuum there will be outgassing (unless its a perfect vacuum).
Just like a CRT, a lamp will outgas at a rate based on the material used in its construction, the quality of its contruction and the level of vacuum created.

Poorly manufactured CRTs can be highly outgassed within 5 years. This of course oxidizes the heaters and cathods and causes more resistance in the tube which creates a dimmer picture.

A lamp works on the same principal. The vacuum is reduced over time (even with non-use) allowing oxidation to occur quicker when extreme heat is applied. Thus shortening the lifespan of the device.

Lamps are manufactured with much cheaper materials than a CRT and I am certain have a much lower level of vacuum. Meaning they outgas quicker.
I believe that higher quality CRTs were manufactured with a vacuum of 1x10(-13) tor.

I am not suggesting there is any inherent flaw with lamps but just that a lamp that has been on the shelf for 5 years is not the same as a lamp that has been on the shelf for 5 days.

reknott, thats the good and bad of an ext warranty. the good is you have one when you do have a problem. the bad is your usually gonna be bound by the process the warranty company wants to get er fixed.

Even though it's covered by your ext warranty did you get a detailed repair bill from the tech?? just wondered if he broke it down for you and how much he charged the warranty company for his repair. Guessing and no disrespect to that or any other tech but in reality some techs would not want mits to repair it as he would be losing oppurtunity to make more/quicker $$ with his simpler but got it working for now 8 cap job. at least you got it back quicker and you do still have time left on your ext warranty if needed.

Hi all,

Are there any posts regarding the lifespan of the units after a chassis rebuild? I did a search but didn't find anything. If I missed just let me know the post # Thanks.

I'm taking my WD52525 back to RAC. I called Mits. They want me to fax them the RAC repair diagnosis and the org. sales receipt. They will review the problem and let me know what they'll do me.

I'll keep the forum posted.

Hi all,

Are there any posts regarding the lifespan of the units after a chassis rebuild? I did a search but didn't find anything. If I missed just let me know the post # Thanks.


Probably a little early and the sample size is small. My 52525 was rebuilt in 11/08, and has worked pretty well so far, with about 4 spontaneous resets. My extended warranty expires in 7/09, so my guess is that it will die again then :).

If they did a real good job of replacing most of the capacitors, I'm expecting about 3-4 years of life. After the warranty is up, I'll look into adding cooling.

I might be wrong about this but most projector lamps usually fall into a category lamps called ultra-high pressure mercury vapor arc lamps. They are not vacuum lamps like regular light bulbs.

Pressures can run as high as 200 bar (2,900 psi) and internal operating temperatures as high as 1000 deg C (1832 deg F) . The operating temperatures and pressures are so high lamps often use high temperature fused quartz instead of regular glass for the arc tube which is inside the overall glass housing. It is unlikely that sitting on the shelf at room temperature would cause these materials to degrade.

Generally a high voltage electrical current crosses an arc gap that contains the ultra-high pressurized mercury vapor. The current excites the mercury vapor which then causes the lamp to emit a high intensity white light. Lamps rarely burn out completely -- they degrade over time when the quartz arc tube turns dark due to a chemical transfer from the electrodes. This is mostly a function of the number of hours the lamp is turned on.

From what little I've read about the technology my guess would be that if a lamp fails after being on the shelf for some time it is more likely that it was a manufacturing defect than any degradation in the lamp's construction or materials over time.

Upgrade Question:

I have a wd52525 which has a fresh electrical chassis that was rebuilt by Mits. I was thinking of scouring Craigs List for a larger version of my TV that is dead and free/cheap. Chances are that the broken set would have a bad electrical chassis. Would I be able to swap them between the sets? Anyone know which models my electrical chassis is compatible with? My set also has a newer light engine... Are they interchangable?

Download the two service manuals. If I remember correctly there is a big table that shows which chassis assembly goes with which set model and corresponding part numbers so you can verify what you have and what you need to do the swap.

I still have not found a way to check the hours on my WD-52327. I found these steps for the WD52725

Press the "Menu" button on the remote hand unit.
Press the buttons "2", "4", "7", and "0" in order.

but that does not work on this particular one whether I press menu then the numbers on the remote or press menu on the front panel and then the numbers on the remote. Any suggestions?

reknott, thats the good and bad of an ext warranty. the good is you have one when you do have a problem. the bad is your usually gonna be bound by the process the warranty company wants to get er fixed.

Even though it's covered by your ext warranty did you get a detailed repair bill from the tech?? just wondered if he broke it down for you and how much he charged the warranty company for his repair. Guessing and no disrespect to that or any other tech but in reality some techs would not want mits to repair it as he would be losing oppurtunity to make more/quicker $$ with his simpler but got it working for now 8 cap job. at least you got it back quicker and you do still have time left on your ext warranty if needed.

No detailed repair bill. He told me he would have charged me $350 to do the same thing outside of warranty. No idea what he charged them. Interesting point on him cutting into his own business with full rebuilds.

got the call from the shop manager, he has my estimate/diagnosis ready.

quick notes, ....it's $845 total, $120 of that already payed for the pickup/diagnosis/return. He said the part (= chassis) was not available as a new part and would need to be sent out for rebuild. More details when i get the estimate in hand and contact Mitsubishi.

update: got the bill, he listed the part as Chassis Assy. # 955B298001 $449.40 w/tax and he noted: Have Chassis Rebuilt.
Besides the $127 for pickup/diagnosis/return fee I had already paid he wants an added 4 hours labor ($62.50/Hr) $250 + 17.50 tax. the pull and diagnosis was supposed to be covered under the first $127 fee, so all they need now is to send it to Mits once approved, wait for the repair/return then install it, thats not 4 hours worth of labor charges?? :( ...at most seems like it could be 2 hours......so not happy but hopefully once i get Mits to approve the rebuild i can deal with the shop manager and get that 4 hours adjusted.

So, my 62725 has had most of the common issues. I getthe wavy lines over component, and purchased an HDMI switcher so all devices are connetected that way. Each power fairlure, I get the blinking green light, and have to hit the reset button countless times to fix it (the last time, when my UPS died, I must have hit that button more than 1,000 times over about 3-4 days until it came back on - I was about to give up), and more recently I also see purple spots on dark sceens. Since The TV is well out of manufacturers warranty, and I didn't have an extended one, I started looking at replacement TVs, as I was not about to sink money into this pile of trash.

I had pretty much decided on the 65 inch panny plasma as a few online places have decent prices on them and I had mostly had enough of Mitsu/DLP. I decided to stop by the retailer where I purchased the TV originally (The Big Screen Store), just to have a quick peak at the newest DLPs, since a 65 or 73 inch DLP would be still way cheaper than the plasma. I told the sales man my story, and he told me to contact their corporate headquaters and gave me a contact there.

The contact there heard my issues, tried to get Mitsubihi to work with me, and of course they want me to pay for the service calls etc to diagnose it before anything else happens. So, the guy from Big Screen corporate tells me he doesn't want me to pay all that service money, and says he takes care of his customers. He then offers to sell me the 65736 at a super-crazy low price, I'm sure way below cost, and at a faction of any other deal you could find. I went in today to close the deal, and they are delivering tomorrow.

I'm glad to dump my very problematic 725, and so very happy that The Big Screen Store made me this generous offer when in reality they owed me absolutely nothing. I had no idea that such great customer service still exists, and they've won me over as a customer for life.

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread to help the owners here, I'm glad i won't be reading it anymore.

z28lt1,

If you're considering dragging it to the local dump, please also consider removing the light engine and selling it to me :) I need a color wheel.

hey z28lt1, glad someone is trying to help ya.

with a great deal on a new 65736 i would just add on a mack 3 year warranty for ~$225 that would cover you for 4 years total (2 new bulbs for 3 years) you would be good to go for a decent price.

if you can part it out and get garciab the light engine

how much for the chassis and used lamp??

Heck, I'm about ready to give on finding a color wheel for my CL gamble. I've already rebuilt the chassis, and it's pretty much completely gutted from the back. I was giving it a thorough cleaning, hoping I'd find a color wheel by now. Tired of seeing it sitting there :(

If/when I give up, I'll offer up the chassis and bulb here for anyone interested.

Heck, I'm about ready to give on finding a color wheel for my CL gamble. I've already rebuilt the chassis, and it's pretty much completely gutted from the back. I was giving it a thorough cleaning, hoping I'd find a color wheel by now. Tired of seeing it sitting there :(

If/when I give up, I'll offer up the chassis and bulb here for anyone interested.

Ackkk! So sorry, I just checked this thread now. I would have been happy to send off any parts, but I let them haul the old thing away (even paid extra to do so). I feel terrible that I didn't see that you needed a part, that I had. Sorry.

Dssturbo, I didn't see your message either, but I did grab the old lamp before they came, and I also have a brand new spare - send me a PM if you want them.

We really don’t use our 725 much anymore as it is in our bonus room. Our son watches Sesame Street on it most of the time. From time to time he will come in and say the TV is off. When I go in, the green light is flashing. Sometimes it will stop and I can turn it back on, other times I have to unplug the set and it will then turn back on. Occasionally I get home from work and the red light is flashing slowly. If I unplug the set and then plug it back in, it restarts fine. I have not replaced the lamp yet. I get a message when I turn on the set that the lamp life has been exceeded, but the picture still looks fine. I do have an extra lamp that I bought in 2007 when I started getting a warning about the lamp life. After reading many of the posts here, I am concerned that my problems are just beginning from this TV. Anyone with thoughts on my problems? I do not have a backup power supply on the unit, just a simple surge protector. Will any of that help? Or is this more the bad capacitors. I have not noticed any brown outs when this occurs, and no other electronic equipment is flipping out or resetting when these episodes occur.

My last question is did anyone have an extended warranty through Tweeter in CA? I found a phone number with a company that has apparently been tasked with honoring them here http://www.ct.gov/dcp/cwp/view.asp?Q=432040&A=3618 but I haven’t tried calling as I can’t find my paperwork for the warranty after the move. I can’t remember if I got a 3, 4, or 5 year warranty (praying for 5 years) as I bought the TV in October ’04 (in time to watch that glorious ALCS in HD). Anyone with luck getting Tweeter warranties honored on their WD 725’s?

Sorry for the long winded post.

yes, most likely it is a capacitor issue and more/bigger problems will show up. a UPS or surge protector will not help or prevent it. As you point out the lamp is fine no matter the warning. until it goes out don't worry about it, plus you have a spare.

more and more well known as these sets come into their 3-4th+ years of use that some of the big capacitors completely fail and many others are in various states of failing and that is what gives the various problems. find that paperwork and hope your still covered. If not and you want to get it repaired and keep it, do what many of us WD52/62x25 owners are doing.

Contact Mits customer service 1-800-332-2119 option #8 gets you to the Irvine, Ca offices not option 5, ask to get a case opened, they will require you to get your set diagnosed by a Mits service center. If it is the caps/chassis then get back in touch with mits and see about getting them to cover having the chassis sent into Mits for a complete rebuild. They know about the cap/chassis issues on these WD52/62x25 sets but being well out of warranty it's a case by case basis. So be ready for the hassle of time spent on phone calls with Mits and pray you get a decent service center/tech to deal with too. Plus still $$$ out of pocket as they may not cover the service center labor.

My last question is did anyone have an extended warranty through Tweeter in CA? I found a phone number with a company that has apparently been tasked with honoring them here http://www.ct.gov/dcp/cwp/view.asp?Q=432040&A=3618 but I haven’t tried calling as I can’t find my paperwork for the warranty after the move. I can’t remember if I got a 3, 4, or 5 year warranty (praying for 5 years) as I bought the TV in October ’04 (in time to watch that glorious ALCS in HD). Anyone with luck getting Tweeter warranties honored on their WD 725’s?

Sorry for the long winded post.
I bought my 62725 from Tweeter in San Diego in Aug of 2005. It was a 4 year warranty but I think it didn't start until after the 1 year Mits Warranty for a total of 5 years of coverage.

The Warranty Group handles it now. Then number I used is 1-800-587-6485. I was on hold for over 30 minutes. Don't bother with their website (theserviceport.com) since they will respond by telling you that you have to call them and be at your TV. My tv has been in the shop for 2 months now. It should have be ready by now, but the last part that came in (Light Engine) was damaged enroute :(. ETA for replacement is 3/16.

Haven't been here in about a year.....

Have an out of Extended warranty WD62525... A friend has one in service now.. and his Extended Warranty expires in a couple months....

We're both looking for any information: Links, other WD62525 forums, Service Bulletins, and SCHEMATICS, Cap change information (We both have the Service Manual block diagrams)....

Thanks in advance..... Jan

Haven't been here in about a year.....

Have an out of Extended warranty WD62525... A friend has one in service now.. and his Extended Warranty expires in a couple months....

We're both looking for any information: Links, other WD62525 forums, Service Bulletins, and SCHEMATICS, Cap change information (We both have the Service Manual block diagrams)....

Thanks in advance..... Jan

Your friend needs to make a service call and complain about the wavy lines and Blinking Green Light Of Death (BGLOD). He should be able to get a chassis change and possibly extend the life of his TV. Or in some cases like mine, get a complete replacement for a newer Mits 65736.

As for "SCHEMATICS and Cap change information", you have come back to the right place. The past 10 or so pages are full of the info you are looking for.

I have been posting some of my ongoing saga with my 52725 and a Warrantech warranty. So to recap, I noticed the wavy line issue with my tv in July 2006. I called Warrantech and they put me in touch with the nearest Mitsu repair center. Needless to say, in December 2007, they gave up and pretty much told me they couldn't fix my tv. After repeated attempts at trying to contact Warrantech (a supervisor was assigned to my case), I had to get a lawyer involved.

This past Friday they called me with an offer. They would replace my tv that I paid $3200 for with a refurbished Samsung DLP HL56A650 or give me a check for $960. I really don't believe that this is a fair settlement, since my tv was pretty much a top of the line DLP in 2004. Now, I understand, that the warranty agreement is to repair or replace with like kind or quality, but in my opinion this is getting a little ridiculous. I called Warrantech and explained that my tv was a higher quality tv than the Samsung, but he stated that the Samsung has 1080p which mine did not. Of course mine doesn't, it was manufactured in 2004.

So, does anyone else have an opinion about this? Warrantech wants me to list the features that the 52725 has that the Samsung doesn't. It is hard to quantify how a Mitsu is better than the Samsung they are giving me, so any ideas on what to say to these people to get a better settlement?

I know I have seen others get a replacement set on this forum. What replacements have others been giving in lieu of their set?

Thanks

10ecvol,

You're in a tough spot, especially with them crossing brands on you. But even if you were being offered a Mits, the replacement set would cost much, much less than we paid for our 720p. Prices have dropped tremendously, while tech has advanced. Really, the only problem I have with their offer is the 'refurbished' part. Read the warranty details and see if they are allowed to replace with refurb, or if it's supposed to be new. But feature for feature, I think the Samsung wins out. The only counter you may have is the card readers in the Mits, but I'm not so sure the Samsung doesn't have those.

Most here have gotten Mits involved directly when getting Mits replacements.

I know I have seen others get a replacement set on this forum. What replacements have others been giving in lieu of their set?


Based upon the settlement I received yours does look a little light. I purchased a WD62825 in November 2003 and started the wavy line process January 2007. My second chassis replacement lasted about 9 months before they appeared again at which time the warranty company agreed to replace it after pushing to issue under their lemon clause.

My offer was a new WD65835 or cash equivalent to purchase price or a new Samsung HL61A750. I took the cash which equated to 48% of my original purchase price (including the cost of the warranty and tax). I also kept the current unit, so until it fails completely it continues to function on HDMI. I think most of the contracts state they can use refurbished parts but nobody really expects them to. If they were offering a new Samsung I'd would probably be ok with the offer as I don't ever want a Mitsubishi anything again.

Based upon the settlement I received yours does look a little light. I purchased a WD62825 in November 2003 and started the wavy line process January 2007. My second chassis replacement lasted about 9 months before they appeared again at which time the warranty company agreed to replace it after pushing to issue under their lemon clause.

My offer was a new WD65835 or cash equivalent to purchase price or a new Samsung HL61A750. I took the cash which equated to 48% of my original purchase price (including the cost of the warranty and tax). I also kept the current unit, so until it fails completely it continues to function on HDMI. I think most of the contracts state they can use refurbished parts but nobody really expects them to. If they were offering a new Samsung I'd would probably be ok with the offer as I don't ever want a Mitsubishi anything again.

I don't think the WD62825 was out in November 2003. Didn't you mean November 2004?

Thank you to everyone for your prompt replies. One other question for those of you who had a tv replaced or check sent to you. Did you have to send the old television back to the the company replacing the tv? My thought is, if I took the money then called Mitsu to see if they would do anything for my defective set, I would feel the $960 was more fair. Of course, that is assuming I did not have to return the set.

I don't think the WD62825 was out in November 2003. Didn't you mean November 2004?

2004 it is.

Hey All

I'm working from home today in anticipation of receiving my warranty replacement of the WD-52725 i purchased in late 2004. I have read the last few pages of this thread and I too have the wavy lines in the picture. Another issue I have is that the tv will no turn on without discharging the capacitors after a circuit trips ( i live in an older building with poor electrical, circuits need to be reset often in the summer time). I also had the issue with the screen tilt, meaning that when watching sports, the score bar would sink into the bezel.

Anyways, the tv has given me relatively little problems during my 4 1/2 years of ownership. The warranty from PC Richards (great store), replaced my lamp last year. The wavy lines just started to appear, not sure why. But we do keep the tv on for close to 12 hours a day to keep the dog company while we are at work (laugh all you want, im sure some of you do it too!). Last week they picked my tv up to bring back to the repair shop. Well a week later (last night), they called me to tell me that they can't get the parts needed to repair the tv and that they would replace it with the WD-60735. So like others in this thread, i was a little PO'ed that I wasn't getting a tv that was worth what I paid for the 52725 ($3k in 2004), but I was getting what the warranty stated, like kind quality. They are giving me a brand new tv that is 8" larger than my 52" that is FULL1080p whereas my tv was at the end of the warranty (6 months left of a 5 yr) and only 720p capable.

As far as the reviews for the wd-60735, its an ok tv. but its a free tv for my family in a time when we cannot afford to buy a new one. All in all, we are satisfied with the situation. It's just disappointed how the WD-52725 ended up, with tons of problems for its owners. I remember reading about the tv on this forum and KNOWING this was the right purchase for me at the time.

....So, does anyone else have an opinion about this? Warrantech wants me to list the features that the 52725 has that the Samsung doesn't. It is hard to quantify how a Mitsu is better than the Samsung they are giving me, so any ideas on what to say to these people to get a better settlement?......Thanks

if it helps your argument besides the memory card readers your Mits also came with Firewire out to use a DVHS recorder. not even sure if the new models still do that??

anyway, i would at least ask for a new Mits 60735 model as a replacement. the 56" sammy maybe larger than your 52" Mits but just tell them you can't agree to the refurb part, IF it comes down and you have too take the sammy ask for another ext warranty to go with the sammy.

Well I'm taking mine back with sooo many problems I don't know where to begin. After the BLUE SCREEN problem I took it to RAC. They plugged it in and IT WORK!

Now a week later it has started an audio problem on the analog cable input. It sounds like audio clipping/squawking. I don't have the problem with the OTA input, COMP1 or VCR1 input.

I have the BGLOD when you press the reset button.

When memorizing the OTA channels it hangs on memorizing digital channel 48. You must turn the set off to break the process.

So its back to RAC. RAC told me the cost to rebuild the chassis was @ $800. So I may not have this set much longer unless someone has a good suggestion.

BTW the light bulb had over 7500 hours not 4500. My mistake.

Alright, I have a 62725 with the red lamp light and the 34 error code. I tried to change the lamp, zippo, someone said the ballast zippo, I read about all the capacitors so I just got done trying that, zippo. I still get the same thing. Some additional info, when I replaced the ballasts (the 3300 and i did the 1000's right away) absolutely none of them looked buldged or leaky, all looked in tip top brand new shape. When I try to power on the ballast neither of my 2 ballasts "hum or click" at least or as far as I can tell with all the fans going. Which brings me to my second addition, when I power on the tv the chassis fan does not switch on. I have read differring opinions about whether this fan should be on all the time or not, I did switch the plug with the exhaust fan though to make sure the chassis fan is operational and it is. The last thing is, and Im not sure but it might help, when I replaced the first bulb, way too early in my opinion, I did the bulb reset per instructions, but the change buld light would never turn off, I tried a few more times and still the same thing. I bought the bulb on e-bay so I just chalked it up to getting a weak bulb, but it was a ton brighter than the one I replaced so I played a game of ignorance is bliss.

Please help, I am unemployed and going back to school and will not be able to afford another 62" tv for years.......

which caps did you replace specifically?

2- 3300 on the power board, 5-1000's on the power board, and 4-1000's each on the FMT and DM? ( I forgot the name)

That was my guess. Problem is, there is no telling which of the SMT caps on the DM and FMT boards may be stressed/degraded as well. If you take a look at TBully's ppt file, you will get an idea of what I'm talking about. I don't believe anyone has isolated the cause of the 'failure to power up' problem. Your best bet is to replace EVERY SMT cap on the DM and FMT boards, if you want to keep working at it.

Most times just replacing the caps you did fixes it, sometimes it doesn't. Either way, without replacing all the SMTs at this point (age-wise), you're likely going to have a new problem soon anyway.

My 62725 is posted here somewhere. I took the 'replace all caps' approach, and it works again.

Looks like my TV will be returned this week. The chassis was rebuilt twice. The first time Mits sent the chassis back it was defective according to the repair shop. So much for thoroughly inspecting the product before returning it! The chassis is back again. If functional it should be in its home soon. Not bad turn around time but would have been better if fixed right the first time. I hope the repair also fixed my bad component inputs.

Hi Guys,

I have inherited a 62725 from my dad who bought a new set. The reason he replaced it is he was having almost all of the common problems with it: BGLOD, Vertical static on the left side of the screen in dark scenes, wavy lines on the component inputs. So I took the set off his hands as a project. After doing some research and reading this thread I changed all the smd caps on the DM and FMT boards as well as the 3300 and 1000 uf radila caps on the Power supply board. Here is the bottom line: it looks like I solved the BGLOD problem but it comes up a screen that looks like a close up of a couch cushion. I can't access any menus and I can't seem to change the screen in any way. I reset the set and got the same result, any ideas? I am only into this thing for a hundred bucks or so but my time is starting pile up. Either I damaged one of the boards or I didn't get one of the plugs in the right place. I am an electronics tech with lots of smd experience but no television experience. Any Ideas? I have the chassis out, with the shields off ,that shouldn't make a difference should it?

Thanks in Advance,

Bob

Well I am real close to giving up. Still not working after several repairs by Mits. I am hoping to get some concession from Mits, will find out tommorrow. May have a 62525 sitting on the curb shortly!

Well I am real close to giving up. Still not working after several repairs by Mits. I am hoping to get some concession from Mits, will find out tommorrow. May have a 62525 sitting on the curb shortly!

wow a&m sorry to hear the continueing problems. So the service techs installed the 2nd rebuilt chassis at the shop and find it's not working and call you with the bad news? or did they get it to your home and its still messed up? you contacted mits and they are considering what concession to give you?

Yep. I called to schedule delivery and they said the chassis was still bad. The Mits rep informed me that usually after 3 chassis rebuilds they replace the set. I had the TV repaired under warranty 3 years ago so with the two most recent rebuilds they may help me with some sort of concession but I will find out for sure tomorrow. Even if they do get it repaired somehow I cant imagine it will stay running very long! How is your repair going?

Here are a few tips on reassembly of the chassis after cap changes:

1. Double check to make sure all the caps are installed with the correct polarity. One reversed cap can cause a voltage drop big enough to affect operation but not enough to blow a fuse. Use a color marker to mark each cap as they are checked (see below also) so you don't miss any.

2. Use a dental pick to lightly scrape away any flux build up so you can inspect each solder joint carefully with a high power magnifier. Look for surface cracks that might indicate a poor joint.

3. Look for a lifted trace which can cause misalignment with the cap leg and lack of connection.

4. Look for a broken trace around the cap area. Sometimes a little discoloration indicates damage. Meter the traces around the caps to make sure no trace is broken.

5. Check for a shorted cap/trace/solder joint by metering the installed cap's resistance. Probe both the top of the cap legs and the solder pads. When metered the cap will initially show low resistance then the resistance will increase as the meter test voltage charges up the cap. No charging usually means an open or a short.

6. Look for solder splash. Sometimes a **tiny** blob of solder will lodge between traces or IC leads and cause a short. Look carefully and use a stiff anti-static brush to dislodge any debris.

7. Give the connectors a squirt of contact cleaner. The lack of a fan filter causes contamination, especially at the top of the chassis where the dust collects 1/8 inch thick on top of the connectors.

8. Make sure all the connectors are seated properly and not one pin off. Some cables are a bit short so when replacing the shields it is possible to accidentally nudge a connector out just enough to cause problems. The ribbon connectors have a rotating bar that secures the connection -- make sure they are engaged.

9. Make sure the ground wires are all connected and solid. Use a star washer just in case.

10. If the set does not then work properly meter all the fuses to make sure something didn't short after the initial power up. One bad fuse can cause a partial failure in one section and produce goofy operation.

12. If you are so qualified try to carefully meter the voltages at the test points. CAUTION: HIGH VOLTAGE IS LETHAL -- do not attempt this if you don't know what you are doing. The interconnect schematic at the back of the service manual will have some of the voltages marked where they land on the boards so you can make additional checks. Note that some of the voltages are not regulated so they might be higher than specified.

One final note: make sure you use an anti static strap and it is securely grounded. It only takes ONE touch to an exposed trace or pin to blow up a whole board.

I was having trouble with my 2005 WD52725 and Googled up the problem (antenna inputs not working) and found this forum.
Well, not only did I get that problem solved (updated software) but came across IronHorse's cleaning instructions (post #4222)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=10226485&postcount=4222

The .pdf version created by Cadillac84 is available for download here:

http://rapidshare.com/files/34522827/Cleaning_65725.pdf.html

It took me about an hour and I can't believe the difference.
I had forgotten what a vibrant, brilliant picture these sets can produce.
I have read about half of the posts and now am aware of the cap problems
these sets have. I only have about 10,000 hours but if/when the problem
arises, I will be in a better position to deal with it.

I also have a 13 year old 50" Mitsubishi CRT RPTV that I will clean myself.
I could not find explicit instructions for my model VS-5062, but
I found the other forum dealing with these old sets (Don't dump your CRT RPTV!) and I think I have enough info to tackle that.
It was cleaned about 8 years ago when it was repaired and I know now what a little TLC can do for the picture.
Great forum-thanks everyone!

Mark Walker
Pittsburgh, PA

Goodbye bglod and 62525, hello 65735! Mits gave up on the repairing my chassis and is sending me a new 65735. What a great company! 4.5 year old tv, out of both factory and extended warranty long ago. Not many CE companies stand behind their products and I will definitely consider them in all future electronic purchases. Not only I will get 1080p but 3 extra inches. Good luck to all on the rebuilds. If I had the time I would have tried to rebuild myself but I am glad I didn't. I will say I took a look at the set at my local store and certainly build quality is not the same. The input panel is downright bare compared to the old set, but I do have 3 hdmi!. Cabinet is not as attractive but is a much smaller form factor. No IEEE or R232 (never used anyways). No more card reader. Menu system is not as refined and the remote is cheap. Guess its hard to compare a 4k tv to a 1500 set. Whatever though I couldn't be happier!

hey a&m so what about the labor charges for the service center/techs? i hope mits picks that up for you too. thats just whack that 2 rebuilt chassis came back bad through the Mits service center. But good news that Mits is gonna take care of you. didn't realize you already had a warranty fix early on.

as for my set, I've had alot going on but finally I called Mits on Monday and they said sure fax the estimate and sale receipt in and we'll consider what we can do, no promises.

I wrote out a 7 page letter with every detail and various hassles, cost and problems, plus photos of the problems, the dirty internal mirror, a copy of my sales receipt and copies of lamp purchases. Instead of fax I express mailed it all to the MDEA offices in Irvine, Ca. guessing but pretty sure I will get the standard chassis rebuild offer as their first offer to the situation.

hey a&m, garciab was looking for a light engine/color wheel. if that shop was gonna trash your set you might give him a pm with their name/number to check if they can salvage it for him.

Mitsubishi is going to reimburse the local repair shop. I am sure they are not to happy about it as I doubt they will get their full expected 400 dollars. Part of the deal includes returning the set to Mits are I would be glad to salvage it.

Mitsubishi Consumer Relations did call me on Saturday and confirmed they received my paperwork by fax. Hope they get the express mail and emails I sent so they will have the photos too. Anyway the mits rep said they should get back to me by Tuesday-Wednesday with an answer.

Hey all I have a 62725 and have a question after reading through the owners manual...not helpful. I have a bluray, cable, and pc hdmi outputting into a hdmi switch that sends the signal into the 1 hdmi in on the Mits. I then would like to run the digital audio output to my receiver (the receiver has no hdmi capability) so I can get the audio from all the sources into my receiver. However I have tried messing with the settings as much as I can figure and I cant seem to get it to work. Nor can I get the analog (red white) to send the audio signal to the receiver either but I figure I have them plugged into the wrong place. Any ideas??

Only audio available at the digital output is from the tv tuner. On this generation of sets, I don't think HDMI audio is output anywhere. You will need an HDMI receiver to do what you want.

thanks I found that out on another forum after posting...I bought a optical splitter that will allow me to do what I want for 10 bucks so its no big deal.

My 62725 has been in the shop since Jan 6th for a new chassis and light engine. Had the wavy lines and a few other issues. Still waiting. Repair shop stated the other day that parts were still on order.

Still in the shop. Repair shop has claimed that the past couple of parts received have either been defective or damaged. Today, I was told that Mits sent the wrong part. I have pretty much lost my patience now. I called Service Right and was told that the part they need is no longer available via Mits. The told me to call the extended warranty company (The Warranty Group). Called them up and explained everything and was told that they needed to hear from the tech himself before we can move on. So, it's looking more like I should be able to get a replacement set. Not sure how The Warranty Group handles replacement sets. Guess I should find out in a few days.

Maybe you should forget about the warranty company and contact Mits. My tv was in the shop a much shorter time and is being replaced by Mits.

Maybe you should forget about the warranty company and contact Mits. My tv was in the shop a much shorter time and is being replaced by Mits.

If you do, be sure not to mention that you have an extended warranty or Mitsubishi will not help you but tell you to work with your warranty company.

I called The Warranty Group late yesterday afternoon and my ticket has been passed up to Service Administration - whatever that means... Anyway, the rep told me I should hear something back in about 3-5 days as to how we will proceed. They said that they have to confirm about the non-availibility of parts.

Don't be surprised that parts are "no longer available" even though the capacitors that fail are commonly available and can be easily replaced by the average tech.

Rather, it is a safe bet that rebuilding the chassis has a low probability of fixing the many problems associated with this product for any period of time. Hence, if the commonly available parts are "no longer available" it likely means that the repairs are not effective and Mitsu has thrown in the towel and finds it more cost effective to simply replace the set than screw with the nightmare they created.

Quality of design is an unforgiving master. You either have it or you don't. I hope somebody at Mitsu is flipping burger patties at McD's instead of designing TVs (unlikely, I know).

"Book Rate"........ I went back to the Mits asc and talked to the shop manager. asked him how it could cost $250 more for labor after the chassis has already been pulled and diagnosied (that was paid for and already included in the $120 pickup/diagnosis/return fee that i already paid). At this point all they need to do is ship it to the mits service center in Ga, get it back, then reinstall it. his excuse is that is the "Book Rate" of a chassis pull/replace. argghhhh......he's charging me for a complete "Book Rate" job as if they never pulled the chassis to diagnosis it.

So all you amatuer Mits WD-62/52x25 owners who pulled and replaced the chassis how long does it take you??

lciallo who is a mits tech pro said it took a little over two hours when he did his first few units, but now it takes him an average of 45 minutes each way to pull or reinstall the chassis. Thats why it makes me kinda mad to have my Mits asc charge me 4 hours labor (especially when half of that has already been done), IF it was 3 hours "Book Rate" I couldn't complain as much. it's that extra hour that can push it over the edge and make you feel like they are screwing ya.

The shop manager said he might could adjust the $120 charge down ~$30 but he could not adjust the techs labor "Book rate", a little help and also figured later if the chassis is covered by mits that should help save $30 in sales tax,........,every penny helps.

Gerald from Mits called back Monday and Mits offered to cover the rebuild but not any labor on my end. i told him that was unacceptable and he said he would send it to the next level for further consideration. So Michael calls back on Wednesday and left a message with the same offer. Mits would cover the chassis rebuild, return it to my local Mits asc but no labor........the saga continues.......

I called The Warranty Group late yesterday afternoon and my ticket has been passed up to Service Administration - whatever that means... Anyway, the rep told me I should hear something back in about 3-5 days as to how we will proceed. They said that they have to confirm about the non-availability of parts.

Looks like I will be getting a new tv! Buh-bye 62725! The Warranty Group told me today that they confirmed the non-availability of the necessary parts and that I should hear back later this week for a replacement. Not sure what sets they are going to offer up yet or if they will buy me out with some cash instead. Hopefully I'll know by Friday. It's been a long 3 months....

Congrats on the replacement. I'm still waiting for delivery. Mits certainly doesn't get in any hurry! Almost two months since the tv went out!

I've got a 52725 and replaced another lamp about a month ago...thank god Magnolia's extended service plan covers bulbs. Anyway, the TV still looks and works great after 5 years but I never got the message to reset the bulb hours when I plugged the set back in after changing the bulb. I searched this thread and thought I found the answer and tried unplugging it a few more times but I never got the message when I powered it back up.

Now the lamp light is orange and I can't figure out how to get it to turn off. Can anybody tell me how to get the lamp light to turn off? Thanks.

Don't know but I certainly wouldn't be unplugging it the way you describe, lest you want to be like the rest of us. The capacitors problems are likely inevitable so I wouldn't stress them!

I've followed IronHorse's tutorial on taking the tv apart and cleaning the inside twice - Thanks a ton, by the way, huge help. My problem now is this: There is some dust between the screens, or more specifically, in between the screen and the glare guard. Hopefully that makes sense. How do you remove the "outer screen" to clean inside of there?

If you still have the owner's manual, look at Appendix G, which will tell you how to remove the 'shield'.

I've followed IronHorse's tutorial on taking the tv apart and cleaning the inside twice - Thanks a ton, by the way, huge help. My problem now is this: There is some dust between the screens, or more specifically, in between the screen and the glare guard. Hopefully that makes sense. How do you remove the "outer screen" to clean inside of there?

Check out this post in this same thread.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5657842&&#post5657842

If you still have the owner's manual, look at Appendix G, which will tell you how to remove the 'shield'.

Here is the page from the manual.

Looks like I will be getting a new tv! Buh-bye 62725! The Warranty Group told me today that they confirmed the non-availability of the necessary parts and that I should hear back later this week for a replacement. Not sure what sets they are going to offer up yet or if they will buy me out with some cash instead. Hopefully I'll know by Friday. It's been a long 3 months....

They finally got back with me this morning about my replacement set. They offered me a brand new 65835 or a buy-out option of $1729.00.

I saw this morning that Mits released their new 2009 line-up. Hmmm.. wonder if I should take the $$$ and buy a xx737/837 series? I like the energy star rating, but I wonder how long before they are available in the stores. I would love to get the 82 inch but not at $5,000! At this point I'm leaning toward the 62835.

OK, I know this has probably been brought up a billion times by twice that many people but I have problems with my WD-62825. It was purchased in March 2005 and I never had ANY problems with it until late last year. I tried to record a show, went to the TV DISC, clicked on the recorded program and the screen went black. Then when I pushed PLAY it brought up the "timeline" and after trying to fast forward a message came up at the bottom of the screen that says, "the recorded program cannot be played because of a copyright problem". Now I know this isn't true because I live on a military installation overseas and get the American Forces Network, plus it never did it in the past so why would it start? Any ideas? By the way, I can hear the disc while I'm recording and while I'm trying to view what I just recorded. Of course the Mitsu customer service are of no help. They just told me everything I had just tried out of the book.

Also, I can't seem to play SD cards through the front of my TV for some reason. The light comes on when I install the card but after 10 sec or so a message appears, "please insert a card into the slot. The images are JPEG and I tried to reformat the card as well.

Last but not least the wavy lines of death, they just started a couple weeks ago. When I push the reset on the front and then unplug it, then plug it back in and turn the TV on it seems to help for a while. Is the problem the DM board like I'm hearing, or is it the capacitors?

Sorry for the long and most likely redundent post but I will be coming back to the states in June and will most likely junk the whole unit and purchase a 50" Pioneer Elite Kuro to take it's place, but thought I could fix it for the time being and sell it to some poor soul here overseas. Thanks for the help

I'm hoping someone here can help with my 4-year old WD-52725--I haven't read about this issue of extreme noise and I'm not sure what should be done. Just before the extended warranty ended about 2 years ago, I had the bulb replaced which turned into replacing the power supply, caps and ballast. Fortunately, it didn't cost me anything. Suddenly, now, when I turn it on it sounds like a vacuum cleaner or a very old CD-ROM trying to take off. It's so loud that the screen vibrates and distorts the picture. There has always been ordinary fan hum, but I didn't find it noticible. I've kept the filter and chassis fan clean and I checked the fan below the lamp but none of these seem to be the source of the sound. I think there is another fan above the lamp (the one shown in pictures with the themal switch), but I don't know if it's accessible and easily changed (or if I'll wait 2 months for parts like the first time.)

I'm reasonably competent with hardware and I'd very much appreciate any advice as to what the problem could be or how to fix it.

Thanks much,

Have been following this thread for awhile....our July 2005 purchased 62725 began exhibiting the BGLoD in early 2008. Have an extended warranty through July 2010 from American TV.

After 2 "rebuilt" chassis swaps and light engine issues following that....American has thrown in the towel and is offering a replacement TV...we are supposed to "come in and pick one out" Not sure what the limitations on that are yet.

The 6 month ordeal is nearly over

If I am permitted to select non-mits what would anyone suggest?

Update:

American said 65835 was no longer available, I asked for the 73736 and they agreed on even exchange. I did add a 5 year warranty at $499 - wasn't cheap but was mandatory imho

owner of a 52525 with horizontal banding and sparkle problem. when i found this thread last night i was initially excited and after reading about a hundred pages, i started getting angry. does anyone think it would be worth trying a class action law suite or is that just a waist of time?

Finally got a le for my 52725, and put it all back together yesterday. Plugged it in and got past the initial init. Powered it up and, she lives! Nothing plugged in so got just a blue screen and the 'did you change the bulb?' message. Let is sit for a bit then turned it off to see if it powered down ok. It did, so I planned to just let it sit with power a few days before pulling the plug.

Well today, it started emitting a burnt smell. A sweet burnt smell, coming stronger from around the chassis. I attempted to turn it on and it just started giving a red blinking light, four blinks then a pause. Unplugged it, plugged it back in and it init'd again fine. Powered it on and it powered on just fine. So something strange is going on.

I'll tear into it one more time to see if I can figure out the source of the smell. Then I'll part it out.

Vacuum sound:

Could be either a fan or maybe the color wheel.

There are four fans, one on the back, one on top of the chassis, one on the light engine and one on the ballast. If you have keen ears or a mechanic's stethiscope you might be able to detect where the sound is coming from. An exact replacement fan is likely to be very expensive but a substitute fan might work OK. The trick is finding a fan with the same "third wire" function - either speed sensor or stopped blade sensor. I did not have luck finding a replacement for the chassis fan and used the back fan (lower hours) from another set.

On one of my sets the color wheel came unglued and broken glass was found at the bottom of the housing. It was a loud growl until the sound of broken glass was heard, then it got worse. You will need a new color wheel if this is the case and they are not usually available as a separate part -- only a complete light engine -- $$$$.

Finally got a le for my 52725, and put it all back together yesterday. Plugged it in and got past the initial init. Powered it up and, she lives! Nothing plugged in so got just a blue screen and the 'did you change the bulb?' message. Let is sit for a bit then turned it off to see if it powered down ok. It did, so I planned to just let it sit with power a few days before pulling the plug.

Well today, it started emitting a burnt smell. A sweet burnt smell, coming stronger from around the chassis. I attempted to turn it on and it just started giving a red blinking light, four blinks then a pause. Unplugged it, plugged it back in and it init'd again fine. Powered it on and it powered on just fine. So something strange is going on.

I'll tear into it one more time to see if I can figure out the source of the smell. Then I'll part it out.

Is this the set you did a DIY chassis rebuild on?

Actually the second set. First one worked/works fine. It's possible I screwed up one or more of the cap replacements. I'll plug it in this weekend and see if it smells again, then I'll follow the smell.

Actually the second set. First one worked/works fine. It's possible I screwed up one or more of the cap replacements. I'll plug it in this weekend and see if it smells again, then I'll follow the smell.

Keep us posted. I just ordered my caps for replacement, and reading about burning smells makes me nervous.

Anyone have a handle on the available replacement models? A quick check at BB tonight didn't reveal much. I need a 65" as a replacement for my WD62525. The store had one 73" 835 Mits. They have no WD-65735 or 6 or 7 in the local warehouse. Mitsubishi offered a WD-65735 if BB has one. They said they're going through BB because that's where I bought it in 2004. This process has taken 5 months (don't get me started) and I want to be armed for tomorrow's conversation with them. I'm not sure if they mean the store or BB's warehouse. My impression is that they (Mits) are fazing these things out. The BB sales guy acted like he had information that they were doing just that.

Anyone know if there is a noticeable difference in the 5, 6 or 7? I'll only be plugging in one HDMI.

They finally got back with me this morning about my replacement set. They offered me a brand new 65835 or a buy-out option of $1729.00.

I saw this morning that Mits released their new 2009 line-up. Hmmm.. wonder if I should take the $$$ and buy a xx737/837 series? I like the energy star rating, but I wonder how long before they are available in the stores. I would love to get the 82 inch but not at $5,000! At this point I'm leaning toward the 62835.

BK, what model did you end up getting? Were you able to seriously compare?
I have the WD-62525. Mits offered a WD-65735. I'm not sure what models are available anymore.

BK, what model did you end up getting? Were you able to seriously compare?
I have the WD-62525. Mits offered a WD-65735. I'm not sure what models are available anymore.

Mits didn't offer me anything - this was done through the extended warranty company (The Warranty Group). But, I did get offered a WD-65835. I tried to get a 73 inch, but they said in order to do that, I would have to take their cash-buy out option of only $1700. I settled with the 65835. I'm still waiting for delivery though :mad:

Mits didn't offer me anything - this was done through the extended warranty company (The Warranty Group). But, I did get offered a WD-65835. I tried to get a 73 inch, but they said in order to do that, I would have to take their cash-buy out option of only $1700. I settled with the 65835. I'm still waiting for delivery though :mad:

Since I posted earlier, I searched for 65" Mits replacements in big stores and nada. I hope I can even get a replacement. My TV died the first week of December.
I could write a book about my experience. I would have been way more demanding except that I was out of warranty!!!

Try Monitoroutlet.com. It is the only place Philips would use to get my replacement. They were out of stock for over three months so I wound up taking the cash instead. When I asked why they would only use this place, price and quality of service and delivery is what I was told.

http://www.monitoroutlet.com/product/mitsubishi,47/list/?brand=70&view=normal&desc=1

Well the inevitable happened and my WD-52525 now has the blinking green timer light of death that never stops even after a reset.

I've got a extended warranty through Fry's where I bought it and called them up and they're going to have someone come out and look at it. I'll hear from them in 3 to 5 days for a appointment. In the meantime I've got a bottom of the barrel 720p 32" Toshiba LCD display as a loaner which, is better than nothing.

I'm hoping the service company they send out is going to be familiar with this situation and we can go straight to buyout or replacement. Or, it also sounds like they might not be able to get the parts for it which will mean replacement or buyout too. I've got 11 months left on the extended warranty and I don't want to have this TV beyond that. And I'm sure as heck not going to spend my money on a new one.

We'll see how this plays out.

My 52725, almost 5 years old has been in the repair shop for the last 3 weeks for warranty repair. Had the wavy black lines and the bulb was going. Getting it back on Wed. Shop said they replaced a number of caps and the bulb. It's now our secondary set downstairs, so it should last a number of years.
We got a new Samsung 52 inch 120 Mhz for the living room.

Mits called and indeed they couldn't find anything in BB's stores or warehouse. So they are going to send me WD-65737.

YES!!!!

My home theater has been useless for five months. Yikes.

I can see using your name as your handle has it's drawbacks. I'll have to bite my tongue about my experience with BB, Mits and three different repair companies. Oddly I was the last customer ever for Anderson's TV repair business. If they were actually going to replace the light engine (two chassis replacements didn't fix it), it would been by an entirely different repair company. That extra cost (light engine) was why Mits went for replacement.

Just think in May I might be hooking up my HTPC to a tv and watching a little Blue, Ray that is, if I remember how to plug in HDMI cables.

Keep us posted. I just ordered my caps for replacement, and reading about burning smells makes me nervous.

You should be good continuing with your cap replacement. I plugged in the smelly tv all weekend with the chassis backed out, and it didn't smell funny again. Tells me my cap job is ok, and it's likely a thermal issue on one of the other two boards. I'll push the chassis back into the set and apply power again next weekend. I'm guessing the smell is coming from the tuner board.

My 52725 has been at the repair shop for almost 3 weeks. Supposed to be back on Wed. My 5 year extended warrantee is up in Sept. They replaced caps on 2 different boards and replaced the lamp. Hopefully good for years to come.
The Mitsu has been relagated to the dowstairs(basement) where it will get very little use.

It's been replaced in the living room by a Samsung 52 inch 1080p, 120 Mhz LCD. The wife said "MG" the 1st time she saw the picture on the Samsung. It's so much better than the mitsu.

If your servicer is not sending the chassis back to Mitsubishi for a rebuild, you should insist that they do so. The turn around lately has been very fast lately. Mits replaces well over 100 caps in the rebuild process. The cap problems affect 5 boards, not just 2, and you will likely have future problems if they don't do the job right. Any Mitsubishi servicer who has been paying attention should know this.

Hi Guys.
OK, I just got given an older WD 52725 set (think it's from 2004). I notice some statics (white horizontal lines) from any input on the set, including antenna.
Also seems to have some dithering effect (blue/red statics, not sure if I am using the correct term) showing on darker images. I know that the lamp will need to be replaced soon, but it doesn't seem like it would be causing this type of issues, would it?
Any tip would be greatly appreciated, including if you send me towards a post that is addressing the issue (sorry, I tried to do a search, but the amount of information is discouraging):D

My 52725 has been at the repair shop for almost 3 weeks. Supposed to be back on Wed. My 5 year extended warrantee is up in Sept. They replaced caps on 2 different boards and replaced the lamp. Hopefully good for years to come. The Mitsu has been relagated to the dowstairs(basement) where it will get very little use. It's been replaced in the living room by a Samsung 52 inch 1080p, 120 Mhz LCD. The wife said "MG" the 1st time she saw the picture on the Samsung. It's so much better than the mitsu.

Have you ever had the internal mirror cleaned?

If not and you have not gotten it back yet i would call the service center and ask them to do it under your ext warranty if at all possible while they still have it in their shop. They would just charge it to the warranty company so they should be ok with it. These sets are notorious for the lower internal mirror to get dirty (beside the also notorious cap/chassis issues). Most owners who know about it will clean them at least once a year. It can make a huge difference in the PQ as it reduces brightness and softens the picture. plus it may actually be showing dust bunny type smudges on screen especially when there are lighter colors on screen.

here's a link to a pic of a dirty mirror and how to clean it.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=444566&page=141&pp=30 post 4223
another one
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=444566&page=148 post 4440

Hi Guys.
OK, I just got given an older WD 52725 set (think it's from 2004). I notice some statics (white horizontal lines) from any input on the set, including antenna.
Also seems to have some dithering effect (blue/red statics, not sure if I am using the correct term) showing on darker images. I know that the lamp will need to be replaced soon, but it doesn't seem like it would be causing this type of issues, would it?
Any tip would be greatly appreciated, including if you send me towards a post that is addressing the issue (sorry, I tried to do a search, but the amount of information is discouraging):D
I know the amount of information in this thread can be overwhelming, but almost all the problems come down to the issue of capacitors going bad. Tbully had put together a nice powerpoint showing the most likely bad caps.

I have a 62725 that has the BGLoD issue that I purchased in 2005. The lamp was replaced about 16 months ago and was good when it quit working. I'm not going to get it fixed. In fact, I already have a 58" plasma hanging on the wall that replaced it. Sooooo, if any of you in the Atlanta, GA area would like take it off my hands for parts, send me a PM and let's work something out.

I know the amount of information in this thread can be overwhelming, but almost all the problems come down to the issue of capacitors going bad. Tbully had put together a nice powerpoint showing the most likely bad caps.

OK, I will look for it :) Thanks Chrisbr66!

I need some advise.

We have a WD-52725. The green led light of death occurred last week. Since then I have found this website and all the terrific information. Thanks to all the contributors.

From what I gathered, the main problem involves the 4 capacitors on the power Board. I took the Chassis appart and noticed that 2 of the 4 capacitors were bloated. The ones located on the upper right side of the board. So I replaced all 4 just to be on the safe side. I reinstalled everything and the green light of death still occurs. I tested the Test Point locations on the power board per the technical manual I downloaded for the TV. Here are my results

Test Point Result
TP6vs Good
TP12VS GOOD
TP+15V GOOD
TP-15V GOOD
TP30VS DEAD
TP3.3V DEAD
TP5V DEAD
TP10V DEAD
TP12V GOOD


Fuse f9D00 dead. but the fuse was still good.

Can anyone provide some insight on what I am missing here. The rest of the capacitors looked fine.

Thanks

Nathan

I need some advise.

We have a WD-52725. The green led light of death occurred last week. Since then I have found this website and all the terrific information. Thanks to all the contributors.

From what I gathered, the main problem involves the 4 capacitors on the power Board. I took the Chassis appart and noticed that 2 of the 4 capacitors were bloated. The ones located on the upper right side of the board. So I replaced all 4 just to be on the safe side. I reinstalled everything and the green light of death still occurs.

....Can anyone provide some insight on what I am missing here. The rest of the capacitors looked fine. Thanks Nathan

very normal issue with these sets. you replace known bad caps that are the main issue .....BUT there can be MANY MANY MANY (yelling at mits not you) other caps that are in various states of degradation, even though they may look just fine they may need replacement as well.

when the chassis are sent into mits for rebuild they replace over 100 caps:eek: it's been discussed alot on the past 10 or so thread pages that
mits will rebuild your chassis for free but they require you have it serviced through a mits service center and pay for that part of the repair. some people are even having issues with the repairs and getting new replacement sets because they continue to have issues with getting the sets/chassis repaired.

if you really want to DIY it better then search back further and there are some DIYers like chrisbr66 mentions one avs name like Tbully that you can find big list of caps to order, where to order and then do a mass replacement. good luck

Thanks

The amount of information on this board is incredible.

I have Tbully's Power point presentation. I am going to try to replace the Capacitors myself as I no longer have the receipt and it is out of warranty.

Nathan

Lamp pricing?

Got any idea what I can get for 3 DLP lamps for a WD-62525 etc? They all have "ZERO HOURS" on them. Never had electricity applied. Two have a cage, one is lamp only.

Lamp pricing?

Got any idea what I can get for 3 DLP lamps for a WD-62525 etc? They all have "ZERO HOURS" on them. Never had electricity applied. Two have a cage, one is lamp only.
I'm in the market for one. I understand the lamps vary greatly in quality.

What brand are your lamps?

While on the subject, can anyone make a recommendation about what kind of lamp to buy and where to get it?

Thanks The amount of information on this board is incredible. I have Tbully's Power point presentation. I am going to try to replace the Capacitors myself as I no longer have the receipt and it is out of warranty. Nathan

they probably want the sale/receipt papers or credit card proof? to show you are the original buyer and just didn't pick it up cheap on craiglist or ebay.

the out of warranty thing is not an issue.

I'm in the market for one. I understand the lamps vary greatly in quality.

What brand are your lamps?

While on the subject, can anyone make a recommendation about what kind of lamp to buy and where to get it?

Already found a buyer. Sorry.

they probably want the sale/receipt papers or credit card proof? to show you are the original buyer and just didn't pick it up cheap on craiglist or ebay.

the out of warranty thing is not an issue.

Did I read that right? My WD52725 has a continuously flashing LED. It's been diagnosed as a continuous boot problem requiring the chasis to be rebuilt. I bought the set in 2004 and don't have an extended warranty. Are you saying that Mitsubishi will repair the chasis for free even though I am out of warranty? Seems too good to be true but would make my day. Service center says this will run me $700 or so.

they probably want the sale/receipt papers or credit card proof? to show you are the original buyer and just didn't pick it up cheap on craiglist or ebay.

the out of warranty thing is not an issue.
Did I read that right? My WD52725 has a continuously flashing LED. It's been diagnosed as a continuous boot problem requiring the chasis to be rebuilt. I bought the set in 2004 and don't have an extended warranty. Are you saying that Mitsubishi will repair the chasis for free even though I am out of warranty? Seems too good to be true but would make my day. Service center says this will run me $700 or so.

Did I read that right? My WD52725 has a continuously flashing LED. It's been diagnosed as a continuous boot problem requiring the chasis to be rebuilt. I bought the set in 2004 and don't have an extended warranty. Are you saying that Mitsubishi will repair the chasis for free even though I am out of warranty? Seems too good to be true but would make my day. Service center says this will run me $700 or so.

yes thats right.
Call into the 1-800-332-2119 number and use option #8 to get to the Mits California headquarters. explain your situation, have your serial number and exact model ready, it should be no problem since you have a service center diagnosis that the chassis needs repairs. ( I hope it is an actual Mits Authorized Service Center so they can't give you crap about that detail).

They should give you a fax number to send in your info, sales receipt from the original purchase and the service center diagnosis. They look it over quickly and contact you back with the standard offer to cover the rebuilt chassis and you cover the service center costs.

To clarify.....Mits is not covering the service center costs to rebuild or repair the chassis in house. Mits will have your local service center send the chassis to Mit's own service center (i think it's in GA) where it is supposed to be completely rebuilt with over 100+ new parts and tested, then returned to your local service center to reinstall in your WD52/6x25 model.

with Mits first standard offer to cover that part of the repair then it's between you and the service center for the cost for them to diagnosis it, take the chassis out, send it to mits, get it back and reinstall it to working condition. My local center gave me a "book rate" of 4 hours which was $267.50 with tax. That is after already paying $128 for them to pick it up, diagnose it then return it, they would not do in home service on it. On my ticket the chassis part was listed at $450 with tax.

The chassis part is actually unavailable for purchase from Mits. Due to the extremely poor engineering/design and use of cheap parts on these WD62/52x25 V.26 models Mits has had so many WD62/62x25 owners need new chassis they are completely sold out of chassis to sale!

Mits is not offering these repairs for well out of warranty sets because of customer loyalty/appreciation!!!! I think there is a California consumer protection law that requires Mitsubishi to have stock of functional parts for 7 years. Mits cannot provide these parts as required by law and the free chassis rebuild offer is what mits offers instead.

They finally got back with me this morning about my replacement set. They offered me a brand new 65835 or a buy-out option of $1729.00.

I saw this morning that Mits released their new 2009 line-up. Hmmm.. wonder if I should take the $$$ and buy a xx737/837 series? I like the energy star rating, but I wonder how long before they are available in the stores. I would love to get the 82 inch but not at $5,000! At this point I'm leaning toward the 62835.

Well, well, well... after almost a month of calling and waiting, I was informed today that the 65835 they tried to deliver, was heavily damaged in shipment and the driver didn't even attempt delivery! And, to top it off, that was THEIR LAST ONE! So, they told me that they expect to have the brand new 65837 in stock around May 22nd if I want to wait, or they can ship a 65737 now. I told them I'll wait for the 65837. I've waited almost 4 months now so what's another 3 weeks or so?!?