Anyone have a recommendation for a web site that sells the lamp with or without the cage.

Thank you.

Anyone have a recommendation for a web site that sells the lamp with or without the cage. Thank you.

just google dlp lamps and you will get a variety of sources.

here's one, it's dlp lamp xpress. the lamp only is $125 with free shipping and 1 year warranty. with the housing it's $145, free shipping 1 year warranty. it's a new lamp in a refurb housing.

http://www.dlplampxpress.com/?gclid=CPDuo6WZnpoCFQRhswod4jM_-Q

i haven't bought from there, it's just one example of choices.

Thanks, I did the Google thing. I was wondering if anyone had any good experiences with particular vendors.

I bought a replacement lamp without housing from River Valley Electronics on eBay. http://stores.ebay.com/River-Valley-Electronics

This was 15 months ago though, so they may not have the same stock. But their price is great.

I installed it several months ago, its been working fine.

Thanks, I did the Google thing. I was wondering if anyone had any good experiences with particular vendors.

Look for the ones that have a good record and offer a year warranty on their lamps. I use Acme Enterprises of Orlando. The are very reputable and a favorite of many techs, offer a year warranty, and free shipping on orders over $50. Their prices are not the very lowest but very competitive with the shipping included.

Another to consider is Bursma/Excel. There are others if you do some searching.

You should be good continuing with your cap replacement. I plugged in the smelly tv all weekend with the chassis backed out, and it didn't smell funny again. Tells me my cap job is ok, and it's likely a thermal issue on one of the other two boards. I'll push the chassis back into the set and apply power again next weekend. I'm guessing the smell is coming from the tuner board.

About how long did Digi-Key take to ship your replacement caps? I ordered mine a little over a week ago now, and no sign of them yet. I sent an email inquiry Monday and have not gotten a response from them.

What is the advantage of buying a lamp with the housing?

The advantage of buying the lamp with the housing is that it is easier, or if you break the plastic, which gets brittle with age, you may end up needing it anyway. I never had a problem with changing out the raw lamp and re-using the housings, except on one Sony that was so brittle that it fell apart on me.

Here is a link with some lamp vendors:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-repair-maintenance/4396-repair-parts-distributors.html#post146191

About how long did Digi-Key take to ship your replacement caps? I ordered mine a little over a week ago now, and no sign of them yet. I sent an email inquiry Monday and have not gotten a response from them.

I had my parts within one week, both times I ordered. I ordered online, had confirm email immediately, and shipment email by the next day.

What is the advantage of buying a lamp with the housing?

My biggest worry was re-attaching the hard paper backing. I wasn't sure which adhesive to use, and whether it would stick with all the heat. Then, your have to worry about dirtying up the bulb as you're messing with that. Just me...

I had my parts within one week, both times I ordered. I ordered online, had confirm email immediately, and shipment email by the next day.

Got everything but the shipment email. I'll shoot them another email today.

Well the saga continues. Received my 62525 replacement, a 65835 which I paid to upgrade to. Beautiful picture but from the start the power off cycle never worked properly. When I turned the tv on I would get a "tv lost power" error. Now it is dead. Red service light. What a piece of junk!

Well the saga continues. Received my 62525 replacement, a 65835 which I paid to upgrade to. Beautiful picture but from the start the power off cycle never worked properly. When I turned the tv on I would get a "tv lost power" error. Now it is dead. Red service light. What a piece of junk!
I haven't really kept up with Mitsubishi's "advancements" in their DLP sets since I got my 62725 which is a high maintenance, flawed, POS. Have they solved the problems that plagued this line or are all Mitsubishi DLPs crap?

After this experience I don't think I'd every buy ANYTHING that has the Mitsubishi name on it, and I've had less severe issues than many others here. I recently came across my invoice and was sadly reminded that four years ago I paid nearly $4000 after tax. Sad that this piece of junk cost so much, and sad that the economy is in such dismal shape compared to four years ago. Today I couldn't fathom spending $4000 on a television.

The advantage of buying the lamp with the housing is that it is easier, or if you break the plastic, which gets brittle with age, you may end up needing it anyway. I never had a problem with changing out the raw lamp and re-using the housings, except on one Sony that was so brittle that it fell apart on me.

Here is a link with some lamp vendors:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-repair-maintenance/4396-repair-parts-distributors.html#post146191

Having done both, I liked the packaging and handling of the one with the housing. A first timer might want the housing. Frequent changing might indicate "lamp only" for cost reasons.


Having half of the population below average intelligence would be a coincidence. Having half below the median would be correct, as long as the total population was not an odd number.

Well, the TV repair place came to pick up my WD-52525 52" TV for the BGLoD. It's under extended warranty so I'm not out any money.

The interesting/funny thing is based just on my description of the problem they already know what they need to do and it's listed on the estimate they gave me.....

"DM 934C116002 is no longer available, must be repaired at chassis level only. Ship complete chassis, including all wiring harnesses to Mitsubishi Braselton along with a completed repair & return form."

Hopefully that means the entire chassis is going to be rebuilt. We'll see. My extended warranty also covered for a loaner TV so it's not like I'm without a HDTV and can wait for mine to be repaired.

I didn't keep up much until I got the 65835, I assumed they fixed the problems. Either I am incredibly unlucky or Mitsubishi hasn't figured it out. To make matters worse they will not even replace my TV that is two weeks old, only repair it. At this point I will never buy another Mits product nor recommend one.

To everyone with extended warranties offering cash or a similar Mits TV; RUN DONT WALK! TAKE THE CASH AND GO ELSEWHERE

What went wrong with the TV?

My old 62525 had the bglod which they could never fix.

My new 65835 has what I will refer to as BRLOD. Status light is bright red and TV is making a clicking noise. No picture. Maybe a power supply issue? It has about 6 hours on it!!

My old 62525 had the bglod which they could never fix.

My new 65835 has what I will refer to as BRLOD. Status light is bright red and TV is making a clicking noise. No picture. Maybe a power supply issue? It has about 6 hours on it!!

Some things to consider:

1. Six hours? Hum, was that six continuous hours?
2. Were there more than 10 people watching the set at any one time?
3. Can that red light be seen outside of your house? Might get some action.
4. Have you checked for any bulging capacitors?
5. Could you put tape over the red light?
6. Is that clicking noise 60hz or 120hz?
7. Your technical skills might be in question here. I checked Webster's, there is no such word as BRLOD!
8. I inputted your symptoms in my Trouble Shooting program for WD-65835 with less than 6 hours on it and Voila. You have a bad light engine!!!!!

Have a nice day.

Some things to consider:

1. Six hours? Hum, was that six continuous hours?
2. Were there more than 10 people watching the set at any one time?
3. Can that red light be seen outside of your house? Might get some action.
4. Have you checked for any bulging capacitors?
5. Could you put tape over the red light?
6. Is that clicking noise 60hz or 120hz?
7. Your technical skills might be in question here. I checked Webster's, there is no such word as BRLOD!
8. I inputted your symptoms in my Trouble Shooting program for WD-65835 with less than 6 hours on it and Voila. You have a bad light engine!!!!!

Have a nice day.

Funny.

But aren't bad light engines the only type Mitsubishi makes?

Some things to consider:

1. Six hours? Hum, was that six continuous hours?
2. Were there more than 10 people watching the set at any one time?
3. Can that red light be seen outside of your house? Might get some action.
4. Have you checked for any bulging capacitors?
5. Could you put tape over the red light?
6. Is that clicking noise 60hz or 120hz?
7. Your technical skills might be in question here. I checked Webster's, there is no such word as BRLOD!
8. I inputted your symptoms in my Trouble Shooting program for WD-65835 with less than 6 hours on it and Voila. You have a bad light engine!!!!!

Have a nice day.

bad light engine, DMD board, who knows! Funny thing, the tech goes I bet it has bad caps to which I replied its brand new!!! All I know is Mitsubishi is now the king of crap! I was able to secure an extra year of warranty, for a total of two years. Guess I will plan a replacement as once its out of warranty it is inevitable what will happen.

Hello,

I just replaced the lamp in my WD-62725 (prior to doing so the TIMER light was green - blinking fast). After replacing the lamp the TIMER light was still blinking (after plugging the tv back in). I depressed the SYSTEM RESET button and after about a minute the light extinguished and I could turn on the tv normally.

Here's were the problem begins - after about a half hour the tv shuts down and the TIMER light goes back to green - blinking fast. If I depress the SYSTEM RESET the tv will work again but only for about a half hour.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

Alright it just did it again. Prior to shutting down the screen displayed a bunch of vertical lines and one large green horizontal line, the sound cut off, then the screen went black. The TIMER light isn't blinking yet but it probably will soon.

Alright it just did it again. Prior to shutting down the screen displayed a bunch of vertical lines and one large green horizontal line, the sound cut off, then the screen went black. The TIMER light isn't blinking yet but it probably will soon.

almost a certainty that your 62525 is starting to have caps issues on the various boards in the electrical chassis just like a large number of other WD 62/52x25 owners have experienced in the past couple of years. your set acting in odd and various ways it shuts off, then a unplug or reset seems to have it working again but later it shows a bad pic then shuts off are classic examples of the bad capacitors/chassis issues these sets are plagued with.

get a picture of the problems if you can.
Call Mits at 1-800-332-2119 ext #8 and tell them the problems and you think it is the chassis/bad capacitor issues that so many other 62525 owners are having. Mits will tell you to have an authorized Mits service center diagnosis the problems. Hopefully you can find a decent service center that has dealt with and knows about the bad capacitors and chassis rebuild offers that Mits will offer. Call and speak to several of them if they are available in your area, you don't want them to do the cap/chassis work in house, you want them to diagnose it as a real legit chassis issue and then send it into mits for a rebuild. If the problem is the chassis then you send your sales receipt and the service center diagnostic report to mits by fax. They look it over and contact you back with a standard offer to cover having the chassis sent into mits for a complete rebuild and you pay for the service center labor portion.

bad light engine, DMD board, who knows! Funny thing, the tech goes I bet it has bad caps to which I replied its brand new!!! All I know is Mitsubishi is now the king of crap! I was able to secure an extra year of warranty, for a total of two years. Guess I will plan a replacement as once its out of warranty it is inevitable what will happen.

damn a&m sorry your having trouble with the new set. that blows

damn a&m sorry your having trouble with the new set. that blows

I really was hoping the issues with the 525/725 series were related to early DLP model set design and that Mits had gotten rid of their bugs. Guess not. While I enjoyed the 65835 for a short time, I think it is apparent the build quality is not there. Everything feels cheap and plastic. Great picture though when it worked! I am a little upset that Mits will not replace the set. Nobody wants a brand new tv to be repaired, even the repair guy tried to get me to send it back!

Thanks dssturbo1. My extended warranty expired Oct 08 and in that time the whole chassis was replaced due to a audio problem. Will mits actually do all the things you talked about out of warranty? If I have to pay for the chassis rebuild and getting a service tech to diagnosis the problem, what kind of money are we talking about?

Thanks dssturbo1. My extended warranty expired Oct 08 and in that time the whole chassis was replaced due to a audio problem. Will mits actually do all the things you talked about out of warranty? If I have to pay for the chassis rebuild and getting a service tech to diagnosis the problem, what kind of money are we talking about?

Yes they will out of warranty. You will have to pay labor b/w 200-300 dollars. Might want to actually read the thread as many of us have post this information several times. The last dozen or so pages discuss this fairly exclusively. Or try a google search for mitsubishi and bglod (bright green light of death) and you will find tons of information.

Will do. Thanks for the information.

Thanks dssturbo1. My extended warranty expired Oct 08 and in that time the whole chassis was replaced due to a audio problem. Will mits actually do all the things you talked about out of warranty? If I have to pay for the chassis rebuild and getting a service tech to diagnosis the problem, what kind of money are we talking about?

check back one page post 6499, i think i explained it a little better, the why and the cost. but the cost vary and thats also why i told you to check with as many service centers as possible in your area.

There is a good Mits a/v tech that post on this thread named lciallo, he mentioned that he has dealt with 24+ 62/52x25 sets with the chassis issues. He charges ~$300, which covers him coming out and diagnosing your set, taking the chassis out, sending it into mits, getting it back and returning and replacing it in the set to working condition. And he has also confirmed that mits has covered many of his customers chassis rebuilds that were out of warranty.

IF you already had a chassis replaced and now need another that may help with your situation when contacting mits and seeing what they will help you with.

check back one page post 6499, i think i explained it a little better, the why and the cost. but the cost vary and thats also why i told you to check with as many service centers as possible in your area.

There is a good Mits a/v tech that post on this thread named lciallo, he mentioned that he has dealt with 24+ 62/52x25 sets with the chassis issues. He charges ~$300, which covers him coming out and diagnosing your set, taking the chassis out, sending it into mits, getting it back and returning and replacing it in the set to working condition. And he has also confirmed that mits has covered many of his customers chassis rebuilds that were out of warranty.

IF you already had a chassis replaced and now need another that may help with your situation when contacting mits and seeing what they will help you with.
Do you know where lciallo is located?

I've already had my chasis replaced once under warranty and haven't had any problems with this one (except no matter how hard I try to fix it the picture is skewed). But this is good to know because it seems these problems are inevitable.

Well it's been nice knowing ya. I'll be moving on to the "2009 Mits" forum. Yup, the delivery company just called. The WD-65737 will be here on Wednesday.

Actually I'll be monitoring this forum for a while. Maybe some might want to know how I got a freebie while out of warranty. I might have been better off the last week of November if I bought a new one right then. Six months later I'm getting a new one. It'll be a 737 because Mits couldn't find anything else.

My abreviated opinion is their business model needs an overhaul.

I had my chassis rebuilt a number of months ago, and for the most part its been ok. My extended warranty is up in July, however the set either resets to the flashing green light, or gives me a 13 service code maybe once every two to three days. Its somewhat annoying for the set going black when you're watching something interesting, and putting the DVR on pause while I cycle the power to get the set back on line.

I'm wondering if I should get the warranty company to attempt to fix (not my favorite option because they probably won't be able to recreate it), ask for a replacement (yeah, that's going to happen), or get a cash settlement and/or work with Mitsubishi to get a replacement. Its a 52525, so I may not get much at all from anyone.

Do you know where lciallo is located?

I've already had my chasis replaced once under warranty and haven't had any problems with this one (except no matter how hard I try to fix it the picture is skewed). But this is good to know because it seems these problems are inevitable.

one page back post 6508 . he answered your question about lamp housings. his avs location listed info shows Gainesville, Florida.

yes, agree, the problems do seem inevitable. IF mits is doing a complete rebuild with the same ole parts then it's just waiting time till some form of the cap/chassis problems will reoccur due to the poor engineering/design and cheap parts mits used with these WD-62/52x25 V.26 chassis models. It's already happened several times and that's when Mits usually offers a replacement tv.

I had my chassis rebuilt a number of months ago, and for the most part its been ok. My extended warranty is up in July, however the set either resets to the flashing green light, or gives me a 13 service code maybe once every two to three days. Its somewhat annoying for the set going black when you're watching something interesting, and putting the DVR on pause while I cycle the power to get the set back on line.

I'm wondering if I should get the warranty company to attempt to fix (not my favorite option because they probably won't be able to recreate it), ask for a replacement (yeah, that's going to happen), or get a cash settlement and/or work with Mitsubishi to get a replacement. Its a 52525, so I may not get much at all from anyone.

do you know who did the rebuild? the service center or did they actually send it to mits for a complete rebuild. Even mits does a more thorough job on the rebuild now then earlier when these capacitors/chassis were first starting to have high failure rates.

i would try and get the ext warranty company to cover whatever is wrong with it now. take a pic or even a short video of the problem when it happens if possible.

If it's fixed now with another chassis rebuild then if it happens in the future and you have to deal with mits they may offer you another chassis rebuild or may go straight for a new 60737 as a replacment, of course your mileage may vary..........they work each owner on a case by case basis.

The rebuild was done by Mits, and its one of their early rebuilds. I'll give GE, the warranty company, a call, but I suspect they will send the service center tech over to shrug his shoulders on what to do, and then the cycle begins. I was down for about 4 months when the set initially failed on the BGLOD. The current problem is tough to recreate, but since my last posting, it reset itself again and shutdown without the fast blink or any red lights, so I suppose it could just be one of the hundreds of solder joints not holding.

I had my chassis rebuilt a number of months ago, and for the most part its been ok. My extended warranty is up in July, however the set either resets to the flashing green light, or gives me a 13 service code maybe once every two to three days. Its somewhat annoying for the set going black when you're watching something interesting, and putting the DVR on pause while I cycle the power to get the set back on line.

I'm wondering if I should get the warranty company to attempt to fix (not my favorite option because they probably won't be able to recreate it), ask for a replacement (yeah, that's going to happen), or get a cash settlement and/or work with Mitsubishi to get a replacement. Its a 52525, so I may not get much at all from anyone.

I didn't hear many others with the shut down problem but I had it for sure. It was insidious. It knew when it was the good part of the movie, I swear. The light engine was the reason Mits ultimately replaced mine, but I wondered after seeing how much dust I didn't get out of the set, if the set might have an overtemp circuit that was the reason for the shutdown.

A 60737 is the likely replacement now.

Well it's been nice knowing ya. I'll be moving on to the "2009 Mits" forum. Yup, the delivery company just called. The WD-65737 will be here on Wednesday.

Actually I'll be monitoring this forum for a while. Maybe some might want to know how I got a freebie while out of warranty. I might have been better off the last week of November if I bought a new one right then. Six months later I'm getting a new one. It'll be a 737 because Mits couldn't find anything else.

My abreviated opinion is their business model needs an overhaul.


Hope you have better luck than me. Not to disappoint you but I think you will find the fit and finish on the new TV's doesn't compare to the old, even the diamond series. Not to mention the nonexistent quality control. FYI you can pick any tv for a replacement and pay the difference, just ask. In retrospect I maybe should have picked an lcd flat panel. I personally thought the 735 looked like junk but maybe the 737 will be better.

Hope you have better luck than me. Not to disappoint you but I think you will find the fit and finish on the new TV's doesn't compare to the old, even the diamond series. Not to mention the nonexistent quality control. FYI you can pick any tv for a replacement and pay the difference, just ask. In retrospect I maybe should have picked an lcd flat panel. I personally thought the 735 looked like junk but maybe the 737 will be better.

In regards to the fit and finish, I designed an HT cabinet that leaves only the screen exposed.

The one year warranty should tide me over. I'm moving out of state within a year and intend to incorporate the home theater in the price of the house. I'll cherry pick a few of the components to take with me but definitely NOT the TV!!!

Have you guys ever thought about the components you own in regards to which ones you would consider "best buys"? At the bottom of my list would be the Mits tv. At the top would be my Intega DTC-9.8 processor. It's definitely going with me to Florida.

Good, just wanted to make you aware. I built a cabinet as well. Here is a pic, in the corner of the room. I agree Mits is low on the value rating of my purchases. Oh well, live and learn. Good to hear about the integra. I love my onkyo 805.

Well, the BGLOD got me. We had a power failure Saturday night, and even though the WD-52725 was plugged into a surge protector (actually, a UPS, but not the battery side), when the power came back on, the TV didn't. At first, there was a hum coming from the speakers; it wasn't a steady hum, it kind wavered and clicked, maybe like a sawtooth waveform superimposed on the hum. I tried unplugging it, waiting a minute, and plugging it back it. The symptoms stayed the same, then the hum stopped happening. I noticed that the green light was now blinking 10 times, then a pause, 10 times, then a pause, and so on. I unplugged it for a while and when I plugged it in again, nothing. Dead as a doornail. It was purchased in November '04, and I got a five year extended warranty. I bought it from Tweeter (RIP), but I called the number in the pamphlet that they gave me, and it was answered by an automated system. After going through the menus, I got tired of waiting after 30 minutes, and went to their web site, whose address was given early by the phone system, and filled out a service request. They're supposed to get in touch with me within one business day. If not, I'll call when I can wait longer.

In the meantime, I'd been thinking about getting a smaller LCD or plasma for the bedroom, so I ran to Best Buy and picked up an LG 42LH30; I'm not totally happy with it, and may exchange it for an LH40 or a Panasonic TC42S10, but I'm worried about the high power requirements on a bedroom circuit.

Well, the BGLOD got me. We had a power failure Saturday night, and even though the WD-52725 was plugged into a surge protector (actually, a UPS, but not the battery side), when the power came back on, the TV didn't. At first, there was a hum coming from the speakers; it wasn't a steady hum, it kind wavered and clicked, maybe like a sawtooth waveform superimposed on the hum. I tried unplugging it, waiting a minute, and plugging it back it. The symptoms stayed the same, then the hum stopped happening. I noticed that the green light was now blinking 10 times, then a pause, 10 times, then a pause, and so on. I unplugged it for a while and when I plugged it in again, nothing. Dead as a doornail. It was purchased in November '04, and I got a five year extended warranty. I bought it from Tweeter (RIP), but I called the number in the pamphlet that they gave me, and it was answered by an automated system. After going through the menus, I got tired of waiting after 30 minutes, and went to their web site, whose address was given early by the phone system, and filled out a service request. They're supposed to get in touch with me within one business day. If not, I'll call when I can wait longer.

In the meantime, I'd been thinking about getting a smaller LCD or plasma for the bedroom, so I ran to Best Buy and picked up an LG 42LH30; I'm not totally happy with it, and may exchange it for an LH40 or a Panasonic TC42S10, but I'm worried about the high power requirements on a bedroom circuit.

Indeed some bedroom circuits are rated at 15 amps instead of 20. But read the UL rating or the manufactures name plate rating. It probably only draws a few amps.

First of all, ddi, 15a circuits can handle 1850 watts. From what I've seen most ~42" LCDs draw around 200-400w and 42" plasmas draw around 300-500w.

Now on to my problem. I've read and searched a lot but haven't found a definitive answer to my problem. I've read about so many different lines, flickers, bars, BGLOD, etc. I don't want to misdiagnose and start tearing this thing apart without knowing exactly what I'm getting into. I'm hoping it's just power supply capacitors that need to be replaced. I attached a picture of what I'm experiencing. It started out just happening every so often. I reset it by leaving it unplugged overnight and it would be fine for a bit. Eventually that stopped helping. It's like I'm watching my TV through a jail cell. I call it Jailvision

My entertainment funds are low at the moment so I'm hoping there's a DIY fix. Plus if I drop more than a few hundred I might as well just buy an LCD and curse Mitsubishi's name while kick this thing to the curb. (and they used to be so respected for TVs :( )

I have a WD-62575 and it appeared to need a new bulb as the lamp went solid red...no sound...no picture.

I replaced the bulb. Powered on the TV and the lamp cuts on for about 5 secs...then cuts off and never comes on again...after about 2 mins the lamp light is solid red again..no sound and no picture. I get error code 12 pressing device+menu...but that may be because it didn't shut down properly.

Anyone have any ideas here?

I've tried reading through this thread, but most of the problems I see people having are with color distortion on their picture.

I have a WD-62575 and it appeared to need a new bulb as the lamp went solid red...no sound...no picture.

I replaced the bulb. Powered on the TV and the lamp cuts on for about 5 secs...then cuts off and never comes on again...after about 2 mins the lamp light is solid red again..no sound and no picture. I get error code 12 pressing device+menu...but that may be because it didn't shut down properly.

Anyone have any ideas here?

I've tried reading through this thread, but most of the problems I see people having are with color distortion on their picture.
I don't think RED lamp light means you need a new lamp. When the lamp light is orange, that means you need a new lamp (estimated based on lamp usage). A red lamp light means something else, check your manual or maybe someone else can tell you what's going on.

Ok here's a recap over the last week.

1. Picture started to freeze then the TV would turn off, and the TIMER light flashes quick and continuous.
2. Lamp burnt out and replaced.
3. Now TV works for a while (half hour to 8 hours) then shuts down. TIMER light flashes green/quick/continuous. Unplug/RESET works sometimes. Last night I wiggled the power button on the front and that worked as well.

The manual says that the TIMER button flashing like that indicates power up; it just doesn't seem to finish the cycle.

What's going on? I've had service on this TV (62725) twice, chassis replaced once for an audio problem. Also what buttons do you press to get an error code, assuming the lamp works?

Thank you.

As mentioned many times in previous posts, these sets seem to have a high incidence of power supply problems. The problems seem to be fixed, at least for a while, by replacing capacitors across several circuit boards.

My guess is that over time the power supply filtering degrades. This causes high levels of noise on the power supply voltages. As the noise increases it exceeds the threshold for proper operation of the circuits causing instability -- all sorts of different and strange symptoms can develop, all related to the same problem.

Eventually the main processor can't start reliably causing what appears to be a "dead" set -- BGLOG.

About two months ago I replaced about 100 capacitors (using better quality and higher values) added three fans to reduce the excessive internal operating temperatures, and now turn the set on from a power strip to keep the set from operating 24/7 in standby.

So far, so good. Your mileage may vary.

Any pictures or step-by-step instructions on how to do this and where to get the supplies? Guess I'll buy a plasma, move this thing to my workshop until I can fix it. Anyone want a TV?

There are many posts in this thread on cap replacement -- just spend some time searching and browsing. Here is a summary:

Disassembly and removal of the chassis is not too difficult. It is time consuming and there are lots of screws to remove and cables to disconnect. It is best to video record these as you go, note the type of screws and where they go. Ditto the connectors. You will need an anti-static strap and anti-static bags to keep the boards safe while handling and soldering.

Choose capacitors with the lowest impedance and high temp ratings and make sure they will fit the board, including the height. If you are adventurous go to the next higher value in uF for extra margins and, if they won't fit lay the bigger caps on their side with a spot of silicone adhesive to hold in place. Digikey is a good source for Panasonic "FM" series caps. For surface mount I used "FK" series. There are other brands and types that will also work -- compare the specs.

As you swap out the caps keep a sketch of the layout and check each off as you go, marking things to keep them straight. Meter the installed cap to make sure the connection is good and there aren't any shorts or opens.

Some through-hole caps mount on double sided solder - through holes which make it difficult to remove and replace the caps. Also the surface mount caps are tricky. Do a Google search on soldering techniques and tools and practice first.

This is a ton of work. I could only do about one or two hours per evening before it became too tedious.

There are a lot of things that can go wrong -- caps accidentally in backwards, solder splatter causing shorts, damaged connectors, circuit traces that lift and/or break, static damage, etc. These sets are horribly complicated (what were the THINKING?) and there is a good chance that some mishap during the cap replacement process will render the set totally junk.

If this happens or you are not **very** careful and patient, consider listing the set on Craigslist for sale as "parts or repair" (most go for $100) and let someone else have all the fun.

Let me vent for anyone still listening. Avoid Mitsubishi products like the plague. Mitsubishi replaced the color wheel on my 65835 which worked but now its broke again. Every time I turn the tv on it goes through the lost power cycle. So its going back for repair, 2nd time in less than 45 days and Customer support has washed their hands of it.

In conclusion, Mitsubishi=JUNK!! To bad because they were such high quality before.

i have a WD-52725 and it's still running great. replaced the bulb late last year. my warranty with frye's is up next year in the fall. i've had it reset itself on my twice. other that that this tv is still running fine. just a terrible picture compared to the new tvs. i don't look at this tv the same as i had bought it. now i'm debating on the new dlps of their's. a 73 or a 65.

now that i've read a few pages back from this one. my tv must be a lucky one. wonder if i should get rid of it before something happens. hope the new 2009 models are better for build quality.

No offense but I think your crazy if you buy a new Mits tv now. I can tell you the build quality is not good compared to our older sets. Plus there appears to be no quality control. I HIGHLY doubt the 2009 models are any different. There is very little change between the 2008 65835 and 2009 65837.

No offense but I think your crazy if you buy a new Mits tv now. I can tell you the build quality is not good compared to our older sets. Plus there appears to be no quality control. I HIGHLY doubt the 2009 models are any different. There is very little change between the 2008 65835 and 2009 65837.

You took the words right out of my mouth. I don't know how anybody can have knowledge of this thread an ever buy a TV made by Mitsubishi.

Never ever ever ever ever again.

well today i have changed my mind. i went to Video Only and looked at a Samsung LN55B650 lcd, a Samsung LED 52 i think not the edgelit crap model, and a plamsa Samsung. LED looked awesome white was white and black was nice. the plasma was kinda cloudy looking and dull with no solid dark blacks, the lcd was like led but the whites weren't true entirely. the connection was component. LED i can't afford though. the person put on a new channel feed from comcast and some hockey so i could see the whites and some action. Sure it wasn't hd but i could see the quality.
I went across the street to Best Buy and looked at their sets again. I saw a mitsubishi 60735 and it looked like garbage. two guys walked past it and made a mocking comment towards it. I saw the bars on the top and bottom in one scene and the program bled into the black bars making it a grayish white. It was frickin awful. the one tv that stood out was an LN52860 lcd sammy. the thing was with the lcds is that i could make out a bluish tint in the black bars for letterbox material. a sony kdl 52 lcd looked nice but i couldn't see the blue much on that one. The plasma's didn't give me that 3D effect like the B860 but i imagine the blacks are better. the BB salesguy said to wait until new models come out in a month or two.
So much for DLP. Samsung isn't even making them now. Now i don't know what to buy for a big tv without spending up to 3g's. Not sure if the new Mitsu's look like the one i saw today which are i think worse than my wd-52725 for the bars for the bleeding thru affect.

First time posting here. I have read most of these pages, and it has taken about 10 hours or more, but I too, have the red light problem. To me, it's not worth spending any money so I decided to fix it myself.

I dont have much experience on board soldering but I thought I have nothing to lose. I have build many computers but that just means seating cards in a motherboard. This is not the same thing. But I have nothing to lose here. Either I fix it or get a $100 education.

I have taken the TV apart, numbering screws very carefully, and have taken the chassis out. I got the power board out and have already replaced (5) 1000 uF, (2) 2200 uF, and (2) 3300 uF capacitors today after I got them in the mail (from mouser). This weekend, I will replace about 25 more capacitors from boards other than the supply board. I got the 25v for the 1000 uF caps to replace both the 10 and 16 volts. I also got all 105C temp ones. I figured that I might as well spend a few extra pennies to get better ones.

This job is not for the faint of heart, but can be done if one just takes their time and do it right. Once I read the manuals, and posts from several sites, and then took the thing apart, I found that this TV really isnt all that complex. I mean, it is intimidating at first, but getting the chassis out really isnt that hard. Getting the boards out of the chassis is a bit harder. I have only worked on the power board. The others I will start tomorrow.

I would like to thank many of you for the help you have given us beginners. I will let you all know how it goes by Monday or so. Again, thank you all.

i have a WD-52725 and it's still running great. replaced the bulb late last year. my warranty with frye's is up next year in the fall. i've had it reset itself on my twice. other that that this tv is still running fine. just a terrible picture compared to the new tvs. i don't look at this tv the same as i had bought it. now i'm debating on the new dlps of their's. a 73 or a 65.

have you ever cleaned the lower internal mirror on your 52725 ? the 62/52x25 sets are notorious for the mirror getting dusty and it degrades the picture with lower brightness and soft fuzzy pic quality. if not check page 141 and look for the mirror cleaning post by Ironhorse, also Spiff did a write up about it on page 95.

If you have never cleaned the mirror it will make a huge difference in the pq. i have a 60" Pioneer Elite plasma to compare my 62525 to and it is no where near terrible even compared to my Elite. (at least when it's working).

the only decent reason to consider dlp is for the size/price ratio. at least yours is still running ok and you have an ext warranty till next fall.

For the last three or four weeks my lamp light has been glowing orange (yellow?). Today when I tried turning my set on the lamp turned red.

I hit the power button and after warming up I could see a picture for a second or two and then the TV went out. After this the TV was unresponsive to the power button.

I waited a few hours then hit the reset button and the lamp light went out. I hit the power button and after warming up I could see a picture for a second or two and the TV went out again with the lamp light turning red again.

According the the manual when the lamp light is constant red it means you need to replace the bulb. However, if the bulb was dead would I be able to momentarily see a picture? That doesn't make sense.

I don't want to buy a new bulb if the one I have is still OK. What do you guys think? Is a new bulb likely to resolve this situation or do I have a more serious problem?

TIA

i'm well aware of the bad seal on the mirror area and the dust. i have hi def directv and the picture quality is sharp not fuzzy. i could take it to the shop for 120 and have it done but nah. my pic has always been kinda dim from birth though. it just has a washed out look to it a bit.

You could probably clean it yourself, plenty of directions online and its not terribly difficult. The 60735 you saw in best buy may have been set up wrong or had something wrong with it. The picture quality is actually pretty good. I would dare say my 65835 competes with the Pioneer Elite plasma, or is at least in the same ballpark. The pq has improved compared to the the 525/725 series. The problem lies in the reliability. So if you want good picture quality, big size for cheap AND dont mind frequent repairs and getting an extended warranty I would consider Mits. For my money its Samsung LED or Elite before they are gone!

I decided to create a separate thread on a detailed lens cleaning procedure that should include these models.;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1148792

i'm well aware of the bad seal on the mirror area and the dust. i have hi def directv and the picture quality is sharp not fuzzy. i could take it to the shop for 120 and have it done but nah. my pic has always been kinda dim from birth though. it just has a washed out look to it a bit.

did you check the pics on page 141, also check page 148. if your mirror hasnt been cleaned then it's gonna be looking like those:eek:.

Plus if you don't want to or can't spend the 30 minutes to DIY then some ext warranties will cover a cleaning. The ease with how dirty they can get and the way it effects the pq it should warrant an in home service call under your ext warranty.

also check your settings sometimes they get reset and it maybe something set wrong on them like the contrast or brightness set too high.

these sets are not very good with glare and can look washed out at times.

these sets are 4+ years old. tech has advanced, the new sets have better blacks, contrast, ar coatings, processors, color accuracy, viewing angles etc etc.....if your just wanting a new set then go for it. $1100-2000 will get you a 60"-73" mits dlp, $1800-3500 will get you a nice 52-55" LCD, $2900-4700 will get you a very nice 600M or Pro141/151 Elite 60" Pioneer plamsa, your money your choices.

For the last three or four weeks my lamp light has been glowing orange (yellow?). Today when I tried turning my set on the lamp turned red.

I hit the power button and after warming up I could see a picture for a second or two and then the TV went out. After this the TV was unresponsive to the power button.

I waited a few hours then hit the reset button and the lamp light went out. I hit the power button and after warming up I could see a picture for a second or two and the TV went out again with the lamp light turning red again.

According the the manual when the lamp light is constant red it means you need to replace the bulb. However, if the bulb was dead would I be able to momentarily see a picture? That doesn't make sense.

I don't want to buy a new bulb if the one I have is still OK. What do you guys think? Is a new bulb likely to resolve this situation or do I have a more serious problem? TIA

no, if the lamp it blown then of course no pic......sounds like you starting to get the more serious problems of bad capacitor issues. they couldn't write up a manual big enough to cover all the weird issues they cause when they start going bad.

very close to my problems though. i could turn it on and it would go off minutes later. then turn it on and no pic. then unplug it and get a pic but with wavy lines. yes, it would also show a red light and mits tried to tell me it was the lamp needing replacement:mad:. nothing consistant except it was screwed up each time.

same ole bottom line, the mits service center said with was a bad chassis/caps diagnosis and Mits is paying for the chassis rebuild. When it's repiared they give me a one year warranty that said if i have further chassis/caps issues they will replace the set.

no, if the lamp it blown then of course no pic......sounds like you starting to get the more serious problems of bad capacitor issues. they couldn't write up a manual big enough to cover all the weird issues they cause when they start going bad.

very close to my problems though. i could turn it on and it would go off minutes later. then turn it on and no pic. then unplug it and get a pic but with wavy lines. yes, it would also show a red light and mits tried to tell me it was the lamp needing replacement:mad:. nothing consistant except it was screwed up each time.

same ole bottom line, the mits service center said with was a bad chassis/caps diagnosis and Mits is paying for the chassis rebuild. When it's repiared they give me a one year warranty that said if i have further chassis/caps issues they will replace the set.

Boy am I glad I didn't buy a new bulb. For a month or two the picture's been noticeably dimmer which made me think the bulb was failing. Then the lamp light came on (orange/yellow) which seemed to confirm my suspicion. At that point I almost bought a new bulb but I procrastinated. Good thing I didn't buy the bulb because it sounds like I'd have a brand new bulb and a dead TV right now.

So if I call Mits are they going to offer to take care of this without much arm twisting or is there a strategy to getting them to agree?

How did you get them to go from "you need a new lamp" to "we'll fix it for you?" I assume they're going to tell me to buy a new lamp but I don't want to waste the money.

They wont say anything about the lamp. They will require a Mits authorized service center to come diagnose it, usually 50-100 bucks on your dime. Then when the service diagnosis bad cap you will recall Mits and ask them for assistance in the rebuild. No trickery required. Just read the last dozen or so pages of this thread!!

Anyone have experience with George Meyer or Ashton Electronics in the L.A. area?

Any recommended Mits service shops that you've dealt with in the L.A. area?

There are many posts in this thread on cap replacement -- just spend some time searching and browsing. Here is a summary:

Disassembly and removal of the chassis is not too difficult. It is time consuming and there are lots of screws to remove and cables to disconnect. It is best to video record these as you go, note the type of screws and where they go. Ditto the connectors. You will need an anti-static strap and anti-static bags to keep the boards safe while handling and soldering.

Choose capacitors with the lowest impedance and high temp ratings and make sure they will fit the board, including the height. If you are adventurous go to the next higher value in uF for extra margins and, if they won't fit lay the bigger caps on their side with a spot of silicone adhesive to hold in place. Digikey is a good source for Panasonic "FM" series caps. For surface mount I used "FK" series. There are other brands and types that will also work -- compare the specs.

As you swap out the caps keep a sketch of the layout and check each off as you go, marking things to keep them straight. Meter the installed cap to make sure the connection is good and there aren't any shorts or opens.

Some through-hole caps mount on double sided solder - through holes which make it difficult to remove and replace the caps. Also the surface mount caps are tricky. Do a Google search on soldering techniques and tools and practice first.

This is a ton of work. I could only do about one or two hours per evening before it became too tedious.

There are a lot of things that can go wrong -- caps accidentally in backwards, solder splatter causing shorts, damaged connectors, circuit traces that lift and/or break, static damage, etc. These sets are horribly complicated (what were the THINKING?) and there is a good chance that some mishap during the cap replacement process will render the set totally junk.

If this happens or you are not **very** careful and patient, consider listing the set on Craigslist for sale as "parts or repair" (most go for $100) and let someone else have all the fun.

AMEN the chassis repairs on this set are a nightmare. We just send them to Mits for rebuilding for $350, it's not worth our time to rebuild the chassis manually. The repair is not recommended for somebody who has never soldered/repaired electronics before. Selling on CL for $100 is probably the best option for these sets, I'm not convinced the chassis repairs will last long term.

I don't know if this has been posted or not but I came across this
link to the service manual...

http://www.freewebs.com/januismer/Mitsubishi%20WD-52525.pdf

Thanks!

The extended warantte on my 52725 is up in Sept. I was having all the picture problems. Dimming screen, moving wavy lines especially on the digital inputs. The wife decided to agree with me that the set needed to be replaced. We picked out a Samsung 52" 120 Mhz. What a difference. We moved the Mitsu to the downstairs rec room. I decided to get the Mitsu repaired. Call the warante company and they had a local shop (Ledder TV in Rochester NY). They came and picked it up. Repaired all the caps and wanted to replace the bulb. Insurance company wouldn't let them. So once the set was back, I called and they agreed to send me a bulb. To my suprise, when I turned the set on the day it was returned, the picture was much better, not great but better. Lucky for me, I had an old dead bulb. So when the new one came, I was able to return that one and now I have the spare. The Mitsu may only get a couple hours per month of use, if that. So hopefully it will last a few more years.

There is little reason for a DIY repair on these sets.. except.....

In my case:

I had an old tube style analog turner TV that needs replacement when things convert to digital and could not get my brain around a new $1,000 TV or the crummy converters.

So I picked up one bad 725 for free. Over time I got two more off Craigslist, for a total cost of of $175, which included a total of three extra lamps: one new and two with very low hours plus a couple ones with more hours. Decided to keep one 725 which was "mostly" working with lower hours, and strip the two others for spare parts, including the light engines.

For the keeper about 100 or so caps were replaced with higher value uFs at a cost of about $70 . In addition, two fans were added to the back of the chassis to cut the temperatures. Another fan was added to the front blowing directly on the power supply. A little bit noisier but not bad.

So for less than $250 the set is working like new and with a little luck it will keep going for several more years until the next generation of big screens evolve.

I'm a "late adopter" and don't NEED a big TV. But repair, refurbish, reuse, and recycle can generate new found wealth. I just love how the disposable economy works.

There is little reason for a DIY repair on these sets.. except.....

In my case:

I had an old tube style analog turner TV that needs replacement when things convert to digital and could not get my brain around a new $1,000 TV or the crummy converters.

So I picked up one bad 725 for free. Over time I got two more off Craigslist, for a total cost of of $175, which included a total of three extra lamps: one new and two with very low hours plus a couple ones with more hours. Decided to keep one 725 which was "mostly" working with lower hours, and strip the two others for spare parts, including the light engines.

For the keeper about 100 or so caps were replaced with higher value uFs at a cost of about $70 . In addition, two fans were added to the back of the chassis to cut the temperatures. Another fan was added to the front blowing directly on the power supply. A little bit noisier but not bad.

So for less than $250 the set is working like new and with a little luck it will keep going for several more years until the next generation of big screens evolve.

I'm a "late adopter" and don't NEED a big TV. But repair, refurbish, reuse, and recycle can generate new found wealth. I just love how the disposable economy works.

I too like to pick up refurb TV's but prefer something that requires much less work. I picked up a 2004 WS65513 on CL for $100 and installed 4 caps in the DM and a 9V regulator. Cleaned it up and for $125 and an hour of time I have a new to me TV.

Well, I have had pretty good luck with my Mits 52725 until recently I started seeing white speckles appear on the screen. They flash very quickly and look like they are moving from top to bottom, possibly as the picture scans. Since they are white, they only show up in dark backgrounds, and appear to increase the longer the set is turned on. I have searched the thread, but have found nothing similar. Can anyone offer a suggestion on what might be causing the problem? Capacitors?

Thanks,
Steve

Opinions please... My Extended Warranty with GE for my WD52525 expires at the end of July. I had a chassis rebuild in November 2008 due to GBLOD (with about 5 months of downtime total), and since, it resets spontaneously, or shuts down with a red led code of 13 (DMD fan) which will clear when completely unpowered. I called GE and they referred me to a local service company who said the problem may be due to a bad or deteriorating bulb about a year ago (which may be the case since I bought it from one of those internet resellers), otherwise they would have to take it into the shop and observe the problem occurring. I may take them up on it, just a final chance, or buy a bulb as a backup.

I'm hearing that most chassis rebuilds have been holding up ok, and I'm not sure if that's my issue. Here's my question. GE has solicited me to renew the warranty, for about $325 for a 1 yr plan and up to 3 yrs for higher. I have a feeling this set will fail again because of the bad engineering, and is too expensive to fix without the warranty. Is this a good deal, or should I just get a new set with much better technology?

For the last three or four weeks my lamp light has been glowing orange (yellow?). Today when I tried turning my set on the lamp turned red.

I hit the power button and after warming up I could see a picture for a second or two and then the TV went out. After this the TV was unresponsive to the power button.

I waited a few hours then hit the reset button and the lamp light went out. I hit the power button and after warming up I could see a picture for a second or two and the TV went out again with the lamp light turning red again.

According the the manual when the lamp light is constant red it means you need to replace the bulb. However, if the bulb was dead would I be able to momentarily see a picture? That doesn't make sense.

I don't want to buy a new bulb if the one I have is still OK. What do you guys think? Is a new bulb likely to resolve this situation or do I have a more serious problem?

TIA

no, if the lamp it blown then of course no pic......sounds like you starting to get the more serious problems of bad capacitor issues. they couldn't write up a manual big enough to cover all the weird issues they cause when they start going bad.

very close to my problems though. i could turn it on and it would go off minutes later. then turn it on and no pic. then unplug it and get a pic but with wavy lines. yes, it would also show a red light and mits tried to tell me it was the lamp needing replacement:mad:. nothing consistant except it was screwed up each time.

same ole bottom line, the mits service center said with was a bad chassis/caps diagnosis and Mits is paying for the chassis rebuild. When it's repiared they give me a one year warranty that said if i have further chassis/caps issues they will replace the set.
I appreciate the advice but in my case it turned out to be wrong.

I called the service center that Mitsubishi referred me to and the operator/receptionist told me that it's possible the lamp could "work" (as in the brief picture I got) but actually be shot.

So I took a chance and bought a cheapo bulb from a place that would let me use it for diagnostics and return the bulb for a nominal restocking fee. They said it was fine to buy the bulb for diagnostic purposes and then return it if the TV didn't work or if I wanted a better bulb.

In any case, I got the bulb tried it out an my TV works just fine now.

So to recap, if your LAMP light is glowing red but you get a brief picture for a couple of seconds when you power up, it doesn't mean your TV is shot. You may simply need a new bulb. For me that was relief! :):D

When I took out the old bulb it had absolutely no signs of being shot. To me the bulb looked brand spanking new so you can't necessarily tell if your bulb is OK by visual inspection.

So, now I'm going to return this cheapo bulb get myself a good bulb. I have a couple of questions.

1) I don't think I'm going to be able to replace the paper grill on the housing, the adhesive seems shot. Is this grill necessary? If so I'll have to buy a new housing. Or I can try to glue the grill back on. What do you guys advise?

2) How is this bulb? Seller says it is superior to the OEM shipped by Mitsubishi. Price and quality? http://www.discount-merchant.com/Mitsubishi-915P020010-Lamp-DLP-TV-lamp-p/mitsubishi-915p020010-lamp.htm

Thanks!

My set has been acting up for the past several months... needing power-cycles every day to get it to turn on. A couple weeks ago I came home from work and the status lamp was on solid red. I tried several times to use the power-cycle to revive but to no avail. Requesting the error code results in the error 34 - lamp abnormality. I gave it some thought and decided to go out and buy a whole new set rather than go through the hassles of getting this one fixed. For a moment I thought that I would keep the old set around and spend some time over the summer trying to get it working again but I know that that will simply not happen :rolleyes:. It could be a simple "replace a couple caps and everything is fine" fix or a more elaborate "everything needs replacing"... I don't know... and right now, I don't care! If anybody is in the central New Jersey area (I'm just outside of Asbury Park, NJ) and wants a free WD62725 let me know and it is yours for the taking. :(:o:(

1) I don't think I'm going to be able to replace the paper grill on the housing, the adhesive seems shot. Is this grill necessary? If so I'll have to buy a new housing. Or I can try to glue the grill back on. What do you guys advise?

2) How is this bulb? Seller says it is superior to the OEM shipped by Mitsubishi. Price and quality? http://www.discount-merchant.com/Mitsubishi-915P020010-Lamp-DLP-TV-lamp-p/mitsubishi-915p020010-lamp.htm

Thanks!

See my post a couple above. I bought my last bulb from them, and it seems to work fine, except for the shutdowns i've been experiencing maybe bulb related. The current bulb has about 1000 hrs on it. The tech from the local ASC said that the bulbs they sell are rejects from Mitsubishi, but how would we know?

I have the same issue with the paper shield, but it looks like a simple rubber cement that can be used.

See my post a couple above. I bought my last bulb from them, and it seems to work fine, except for the shutdowns i've been experiencing maybe bulb related. The current bulb has about 1000 hrs on it. The tech from the local ASC said that the bulbs they sell are rejects from Mitsubishi, but how would we know?

I have the same issue with the paper shield, but it looks like a simple rubber cement that can be used.

Do you think the paper shield is necessary? What is its purpose?

Which bulb did you get? I bought their Osram bulb for testing because I wanted the restock fee to be minimal. Their Philips bulb is 50% more expensive and I'm not sure those are Mits rejects.

The cheapo bulb I got is Osram brand and made in China. My OEM bulb is Osram brand made in Germany. Their high end bulb is Philips so unless Mits started using Philips bulbs at some point I don't think the ones they are selling are rejects. Do you know if the bulb you got is Osram or Philips?

Any opinions on these Philips bulbs?

I'm hearing that most chassis rebuilds have been holding up ok, and I'm not sure if that's my issue. Here's my question. GE has solicited me to renew the warranty, for about $325 for a 1 yr plan and up to 3 yrs for higher. I have a feeling this set will fail again because of the bad engineering, and is too expensive to fix without the warranty. Is this a good deal, or should I just get a new set with much better technology?

A new 60737 can be found in some places for $995, will give a much nicer picture, turn on instantly up to 60 seconds after turning off (this one still tickles me), weigh about 100lbs less (compared to the 62725; a little less for your 52"), and won't have nearly the fan noise.

Our 62725 is still in service in another room, but man I love this new 60737.

I also got the BGLOD (Blinking Green Light Of Death) recently on my WD-52525. I previously had several caps replaced in late 2007. I have an extended warranty through GE with 6 weeks left on it. The tech came out and took out the chassis to be sent to Mitsubishi for repair. He said it would take 3-4 weeks for repair. Hopefully it will be done before the extended warranty expires. Has anyone had any luck with getting GE to extend the warranty for these long downtime periods?

They did give me a Samsung LN55B6000 as a loaner. OK, just kidding. I bought that myself. The Mits will be sold as soon as it's repaired and working again.

I also got the BGLOD (Blinking Green Light Of Death) recently on my WD-52525. I previously had several caps replaced in late 2007. I have an extended warranty through GE with 6 weeks left on it. The tech came out and took out the chassis to be sent to Mitsubishi for repair. He said it would take 3-4 weeks for repair. Hopefully it will be done before the extended warranty expires. Has anyone had any luck with getting GE to extend the warranty for these long downtime periods?

They did give me a Samsung LN55B6000 as a loaner. OK, just kidding. I bought that myself. The Mits will be sold as soon as it's repaired and working again.

GE will offer you an extension for about $380 per year, or at least they did with me. I don't think they will do that for free, but you should be covered for the current repair. I think that you will be covered by Mitsubishi for about 3 months for the chassis replacement, and the ASC should cover you for about 30 days after the repair (at least mine did).

Check with Excel distributing and Discount Merchant, as well as others. Your best prices may be for the bulb only without the housing, just make sure that it is the original Osram lamp and not a "compatible" or "replacement" lamp. Anything that even smells like an LTI lamp should be avoided. As a dealer, I find the difference in the price is usually not worth the trouble and Mitsubishi is similar in price to the other suppliers. For a consumer, however, Mitsubishi sells only at retail.

The key is to get the original Osram lamp, as they are the OEM for Mitsubishi. If you replace the lamp in the old cartridge, be sure to be clean in handling. Any oils from your hands will cook on the glass and could cause failure or distortion.

Any thoughts about the Philips replacement bulb? Discount Merchant only sells in inferior Osram (made in China) and a Philips bulb which they claim is OEM (my OEM is Osram made in Germany).

Also, is there any harm to not replacing the paper grill? I can try to glue it back in place but in my experience most adhesives fail with time, and I assume it would be even more likely to fail being so close to a hot bulb. My concern is that if the adhesive fails that paper grill is going to come in contact with the bulb and be a fire hazard.

What is the point of that grill to begin with?

Thanks.

i did not replace or attempt to re-glue the paper grill on the last lamp i replaced.

i was wondering if anyone has posted settings for the 52725 picture using hdmi source material and also if anyone has posted service menu tweaks for the 52725 such as greyscale or other fixes? mine is running strong and want to mess with it a bit. thanks. i tried looking thru the thread but wasn't seeing anything unless i missed it.

I have been very happy with my DLP and replaced the bulb twice in 5 years. In the past I replaced before the bulb went out because I noticed the image was dimming. If the super bowl or something was coming I replaced the bulb so I would have the best picture. This time the image went out and the warning had been showing for a while so I bought a replacment at Fry's. After replacing the bulb the flashing green light goes for a while then stops. I turn on the power and nothing happens except the fans come on. Then I get the red light! Any suggestions about tests or something I'm missing. I had an extended warrenty but it is out now.

i did not replace or attempt to re-glue the paper grill on the last lamp i replaced.

Is there any downside to leaving the grill off? What is the point of it anyway?

Quick update: I'm a complete DIY amateur but was able to successfully perform the wavy line fix on my TV last fall. I also installed an external switch as a work around the to the BGLOD issue.

Thankfully, >6 months later, I'm still free of the wavy lines.

These days, I've been cutting power to the set when it's not in use to limit further degradation of the internal capacitors. (It seems like a reset is required to get the set working each time I want to watch it now anyway).

So related to all of this, I have a question. When I'm finished watching TV, it would be nice to simply cut power without waiting 1 minute for the TV to do it's power-down sequence. I believe it does this cycle to prevent a user from restarting the TV before the lamp has cooled. Can anyone here envision any other reason for the shutdown sequence?

my guess would be to also keep the fan running for an extra minute to help reduce the thermal stress on the bulb.

Don't know if it's relative, but my Toshiba has a 'quick restart' feature, which when enabled, runs the fan on the bulb for a while when tv is turned off. If the feature is not enabled, the tv simply shuts off completely. I concluded that the fan on power down was in case you wanted to immediately restart the tv. Funny, I've never tried to turn any of my tv's back on while the 'cool down' was still going.

Quick update: I'm a complete DIY amateur but was able to successfully perform the wavy line fix on my TV last fall. I also installed an external switch as a work around the to the BGLOD issue.

Thankfully, >6 months later, I'm still free of the wavy lines.

These days, I've been cutting power to the set when it's not in use to limit further degradation of the internal capacitors. (It seems like a reset is required to get the set working each time I want to watch it now anyway).

So related to all of this, I have a question. When I'm finished watching TV, it would be nice to simply cut power without waiting 1 minute for the TV to do it's power-down sequence. I believe it does this cycle to prevent a user from restarting the TV before the lamp has cooled. Can anyone here envision any other reason for the shutdown sequence?

It will not let you restart right away anyway. The sets will not allow a restart on a hot lamp, regardless of whether power was interupted. There is widespread hysteria about the importance of the cooling of the lamp during the post power period, and I am outspoken in my explanation that it is not really necessary. Many will tell you that if you do not let the fan run for a period of time after the set is shut down, you will damage your lamp. Discussions with engineers at lamp OEMs and TV manufacturers indicate that it really is not a big concern. Frequent start cycles are far more significant to lamp life.

Is there any downside to leaving the grill off? What is the point of it anyway?

bump

Anyone know what the paper grill is for?

well after georule mentioned for me to clean my 52725 i printed off the instructions that were from 141. actually the pdf file another poster put together from iron's instructions. Someone is coming to look at my tv on thursday and i might as well clean this thing before they show up and possibly buy it from me. gotta be nice and clean it at least:) i'm going to try it by myself here. wonder what i'll find inside. hmmm.

http://sharedreviews.com/r/40245-general-electric-company-all-in-one-screen-cleaner
http://www.target.com/GE-Computer-Screen-Cleaning-Kit/dp/B001EY8BDO/sr=1-3/qid=1244510742/ref=sr_1_3/181-6322575-6234526?ie=UTF8&frombrowse=0&index=target&rh=k%3Ascreen%20cleaner&page=1

Is this the right stuff to clean the mirror off? i'm also going to get microfiber cloth from Ace. I think i'll have to do this tomorrow after work. Do i spray the stuff directly onto the mirror then wipe it off?

http://sharedreviews.com/r/40245-general-electric-company-all-in-one-screen-cleaner
http://www.target.com/GE-Computer-Screen-Cleaning-Kit/dp/B001EY8BDO/sr=1-3/qid=1244510742/ref=sr_1_3/181-6322575-6234526?ie=UTF8&frombrowse=0&index=target&rh=k%3Ascreen%20cleaner&page=1

Is this the right stuff to clean the mirror off? i'm also going to get microfiber cloth from Ace. I think i'll have to do this tomorrow after work. Do i spray the stuff directly onto the mirror then wipe it off?

I used a microfiber cloth, and iKleer (product marketed for cleaning laptop screens - specifically Macs). You should always spray on the CLOTH - and then wipe gently. You don't want to get overspray on any sensitive electronics.

It will not let you restart right away anyway. The sets will not allow a restart on a hot lamp, regardless of whether power was interupted.

I disagree. When my Mitsu was my primary HDTV, I often restarted it right away after it was inadvertently turned off. We recently upgraded to a Samsung 120 mhz HDTV. The Mitsu was still under extended wqrrantee, so I had it srviced to repair the caps. It was moved downstairs to the "family room" where it should last a long time. It will get very little use and I have a replacement bulb for when the current one blows.

I disagree. When my Mitsu was my primary HDTV, I often restarted it right away after it was inadvertently turned off. We recently upgraded to a Samsung 120 mhz HDTV. The Mitsu was still under extended wqrrantee, so I had it srviced to repair the caps. It was moved downstairs to the "family room" where it should last a long time. It will get very little use and I have a replacement bulb for when the current one blows.

You can disagree if you choose, but you are simply wrong. Actually, more likely not understanding what the set is doing. My statement was that it will not let you restart a hot lamp. You might be restarting soon, but not before the lamp has cooled significantly. Most of the Mits sets, perhaps all, have a feature where they keep the lamp running for a grace period of 20-30 seconds when you hit the power. This allows you to change your mind or correct a mistake hitting the power button. After that time when the lamp powers down, you cannot start it immediately. When removing power from the set it has to reset and reboot, which takes 70 seconds itself, so you can't restart hot that way either.

The newest models have a 60 second grace period and bring the picture back on again in 1-2 seconds so long as you hit the power button inside the grace period. I really love that compared to my 62725 (still in service in another room), which always takes 30 seconds+ to fire up again after I hit the wrong button, or a cat steps on the remote, or I just change my mind and want to start it up again immediately after turning it off.

well i finally cleaned the beast out tonight. Plenty of crap on the mirror and the lense. top mirror was fine to not bother with. vacuumed the insides out and wet mopped it out. did the taping of the hideous foam contraption then put it back together again. What a difference it made to the picture. Clearer and brighter. I think i'm not seeing the light bleeding into the bars like before (now if the new 09 sets are non bleeding). Seems more solid than what i remember. I'll watch some more stuff to figure that out. I upped the brightness and fiddled with the contrast a bit. Much better:) It should be ready for showing on Thursday to possible new owners.

YO!

I'll assume I can post here with my 62527 questions?

I want to clean my mirrors, I really appreciate Ironhorse's tutorial on page 141, however my set is totally different, my bulb isn't even accessed in the front. Can I take anything from those steps for my set? Is the mirror layout similar to where I will benefit from taking it apart and cleaning?

YO!

I'll assume I can post here with my 62527 questions?

I want to clean my mirrors, I really appreciate Ironhorse's tutorial on page 141, however my set is totally different, my bulb isn't even accessed in the front. Can I take anything from those steps for my set? Is the mirror layout similar to where I will benefit from taking it apart and cleaning?

what year was your 62527 made? i think you may need a different mits owners thread to get better help with your exact model.

hopefully mits did change the lower mirror layout on newer models for the better.

what year was your 62527 made? i think you may need a different mits owners thread to get better help with your exact model.

hopefully mits did change the lower mirror layout on newer models for the better.

Hey thanks for the reply. It was made in June of 2005. Only reason I think it could use a cleaning is I've had to boost up my brightness and contrast levels. The bulb was replaced late last year if that matters.

Hey thanks for the reply. It was made in June of 2005. Only reason I think it could use a cleaning is I've had to boost up my brightness and contrast levels. The bulb was replaced late last year if that matters.

i think this is the mits owners thread you need.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=581433

Put a new bulb in the 62725 on Saturday. Second replacement bulb since Dec 2004. The one replaced had about 2.5 years on it. Just noticed that the picture was getting kind of milky, and decided to see if a new bulb would help. Yep, very noticeable improvement. If the wavy lines don't get it (We're starting to see small wavy lines in light colored scenes at times) it should be good for awhile yet.

My set has been acting up for the past several months... needing power-cycles every day to get it to turn on. A couple weeks ago I came home from work and the status lamp was on solid red. I tried several times to use the power-cycle to revive but to no avail. Requesting the error code results in the error 34 - lamp abnormality. I gave it some thought and decided to go out and buy a whole new set rather than go through the hassles of getting this one fixed. For a moment I thought that I would keep the old set around and spend some time over the summer trying to get it working again but I know that that will simply not happen :rolleyes:. It could be a simple "replace a couple caps and everything is fine" fix or a more elaborate "everything needs replacing"... I don't know... and right now, I don't care! If anybody is in the central New Jersey area (I'm just outside of Asbury Park, NJ) and wants a free WD62725 let me know and it is yours for the taking. :(:o:(

:o

Put a new bulb in the 62725 on Saturday. Second replacement bulb since Dec 2004. The one replaced had about 2.5 years on it. Just noticed that the picture was getting kind of milky, and decided to see if a new bulb would help. Yep, very noticeable improvement. If the wavy lines don't get it (We're starting to see small wavy lines in light colored scenes at times) it should be good for awhile yet.

Those lines are a signal that the caps are starting to go. After getting a new Samsung lcd, I had the Mitsu repaired under exteneded waranttee. Replacing the caps made a big diff.

Alas, the extended warranty ended about 1.5 years ago.

Just as a basis for comparison, Paul's TV in Orange County just replaced my chassis (chassis itself was paid for by Mits). The total labor cost I paid was $300, which included the initial diagnosis call as well as the second call to replace the chassis and clean the mirror. The first call took about 1/2 hour, the second call took them 1 1/2 hours. So, total of 2 hours, plus travel time, seemed ok, especially since Orange County is a (relatively) high cost area.

Just as a basis for comparison, Paul's TV in Orange County just replaced my chassis (chassis itself was paid for by Mits). The total labor cost I paid was $300, which included the initial diagnosis call as well as the second call to replace the chassis and clean the mirror. The first call took about 1/2 hour, the second call took them 1 1/2 hours. So, total of 2 hours, plus travel time, seemed ok, especially since Orange County is a (relatively) high cost area.

2 hours + travel time, plus the time spent in training, the time spent processing the parts and the warranty claim, the time spent getting ready for the service call, the time spent on the phone sorting out problems with the credits for the parts, etc. What seems like 2 hours to a consumer usually means much more for the servicer.

Just as a basis for comparison, Paul's TV in Orange County just replaced my chassis (chassis itself was paid for by Mits). The total labor cost I paid was $300, which included the initial diagnosis call as well as the second call to replace the chassis and clean the mirror. The first call took about 1/2 hour, the second call took them 1 1/2 hours. So, total of 2 hours, plus travel time, seemed ok, especially since Orange County is a (relatively) high cost area.
Did Mitsubishi cover the chassis repair out of warranty?

Did Mitsubishi cover the chassis repair out of warranty?

yes, if you read back over the last few thread pages you will see it is now basically standard pracatice for Mits to cover the complete chassis rebuild once it has been diagnosed as bad caps/chassis by the local Mits authorized service center/tech.

Mits covers the parts and you cover the labor and then they also give you a one year warranty where if it happens again they will replace your set.

The out of warranty problem is covered under a California Consumer Protection law thats says Mits is required to have functional parts available for sale for 7 years. SO many caps/ electrical chassis have gone bad that Mits no longer has any for sale. That is why they will cover a complete rebuild on them out of warranty and also give a one year warranty for the rebuild.

yes, if you read back over the last few thread pages you will see it is now basically standard pracatice for Mits to cover the complete chassis rebuild once it has been diagnosed as bad caps/chassis by the local Mits authorized service center/tech.

Mits covers the parts and you cover the labor and then they also give you a one year warranty where if it happens again they will replace your set.

The out of warranty problem is covered under a California Consumer Protection law thats says Mits is required to have functional parts available for sale for 7 years. SO many caps/ electrical chassis have gone bad that Mits no longer has any for sale. That is why they will cover a complete rebuild on them out of warranty and also give a one year warranty for the rebuild.

That's nice to know, but would Mits cover the cost of the labor if one of the rebuilds goes bad?

That's nice to know, but would Mits cover the cost of the labor if one of the rebuilds goes bad?

As he stated

Mits covers the parts and you cover the labor and then they also give you a one year warranty where if it happens again they will replace your set.

As he stated

This is what I mean...I had the rebuild done under extended warranty, so I was covered for the labor initially. My Extended goes away in July, but the if the rebuild goes bad, will Mits pay for the labor of the ASC to come back, rediagnose, and send it back to Mits?... So will Mits cover the labor if their rebuild is bad?

(I can read that Mits won't cover the initial rebuild labor for the ASC!)

This is what I mean...I had the rebuild done under extended warranty, so I was covered for the labor initially. My Extended goes away in July, but the if the rebuild goes bad, will Mits pay for the labor of the ASC to come back, rediagnose, and send it back to Mits?... So will Mits cover the labor if their rebuild is bad?

(I can read that Mits won't cover the initial rebuild labor for the ASC!)

Mits takes each problem on a case by case basis. It's possible they would look at you already having a rebuild and it going bad again and then just decide to replace your set. most likely they would at least require an asc diagnosis that the chassis is bad again and that hopefully would only be a small labor diagnosis charge but as always no guarantees......................

In 2008 I got the BGLOD (Blinking Green timer Light of Death). I replaced the Power (PWR) board capacitors and all was well.

8 months later, I get it again, search the forums, and find the answers I need!!

I replaced the 4 electrolitic capacitors on the Format board because they displayed bulging. However, this did not allow my set to boot up. I emplemented the Power switch interupter for the Format board, which I read about on here. attached to this post is the picture of the particular wire you need to snip/intereupt by way of a switch (it is connector K1 of the PWR board). The image is from another forum member, but it never hurts to have the info out there again. I hid the toggle switch in the card-reader area, but not as neatly as the original idea creater did.


MUCH THANKS to you guys that put forth the effort to trouble shoot these sets and then share that information.

The slideshow by Tbully should get a Pulizter prize or somethin'

MUCH THANKS to you guys that put forth the effort to trouble shoot these sets and then share that information.

The slideshow by Tbully should get a Pulizter prize or somethin'

Ha! Thank you. I still watch this forum intently. I also still shake my head in disgust with all the issues people are having. (including the newer models)

Mine is still hanging in there after my major cap replacement for now.......

I seem to be channeling Daranman almost. My 52525 failed with the bglod in May. I have a 5 year warranty. The tech came out and prescribed a chassis replacement. He came today (4.5 weeks later) with the new chassis. It worked for a minute then the fan failed and it shut down. He tried another fan he had in his van and it didn't work so he took the chassis back again and sent it back to Mits. Or more accurately, he will request a Fed-Ex box from Mits tomorrow which he will receive in 4 days and then ship it back East. Maybe the 2nd attempt at a chassis replacement will arrive in 3 weeks a few days before my warranty expires. Frustrating. I'm close to putting it on FreeCycle as it's just taking up space in my garage. We'll see what happens.

To Daranman's point about 2nd failures on the chassis, the Tech did say he's never done a redo on the 20 or so chassis replacements he's done. I'm not sure mine counts in his mind as the replacement never worked the first time (today).

We went for some time with no failures on the rebuilt chassis from Mits, but recently have had 1 come in DOA (with a different problem), and one that failed after about 8 months. Mits replaced the set with the repeat failures for the client, who they refused to provide any help to on the original repair. Can't say how they will respond to other cases, but they took care of one client. Perhaps the fact that they paid for the repair had something to do with the rather liberal decision to provide a replacement of a nearly 5 year old set.

I've just joined the Mits Sucks clan with everyone else here. Got BGLOD yesterday and was disappointed to find so many results when I researched the problem. I bought my tv in 04, warranty is toast, but glad to hear that mits is still repairing some of these issues.

This tv probably only gets a few hours of operation per week on avg, which makes it all the worse. I was always leary of that TV fan running when this POS was turned off - that just smacked of bad engineering to me when this tv needed a fan to whir when it's not even running!

Anyway, was gonna post my progress with it. I'm in LA and a auth. service rep from TV Master is coming out today to look at my 62725. And I'm now on mission to steer everyone I know clear of Mits. Misery loves company, haha.

I've just joined the Mits Sucks clan with everyone else here. Got BGLOD yesterday and was disappointed to find so many results when I researched the problem. I bought my tv in 04, warranty is toast, but glad to hear that mits is still repairing some of these issues.

This tv probably only gets a few hours of operation per week on avg, which makes it all the worse. I was always leary of that TV fan running when this POS was turned off - that just smacked of bad engineering to me when this tv needed a fan to whir when it's not even running!

Anyway, was gonna post my progress with it. I'm in LA and a auth. service rep from TV Master is coming out today to look at my 62725. And I'm now on mission to steer everyone I know clear of Mits. Misery loves company, haha.

I assume TV Master is an authorized Mits servicer? I live near Hollywood and Mits has never referred me to them. What are they charging you for the house call? Please let us know how satisfied you are with them.

I finally received my Mits 52525 new chassis after 6 weeks and 2 attempts at fixing. The TV worked when I received it back and I immediately sold it. Good luck for those hanging on. My new TV is not a Mits :)

Thought I'd post an update. 2 guys from TV Masters came out and looked at it ($50 charge, which is cheaper than other service center in BH). They unscrewed the front grill, checked the lamp - which is ok - then took out what i'm guessing is the DM board for a look. They state I need a new Lamp assembly and a new Chasis assmebly to fix it. Repair est for parts and labor: $960.

OK, now I have to give Mits some credit. I faxed this estimate to them and to my shock they called me back within a couple days and offered to pay for all the parts, but no labor (parts = $660). So to fix I'll have about a 300$ labor charge. I was extremely professional on the phone w/them - not being angry or irrate or complaining. So considering I'm well out of warranty, I appreciate them doing this as I figured I'd be up scheit creek on this one. The only question is: will it hold?

Mits contacted TV Masters to confirm everything, then asked for my approval, which I gave. So now TVM are waiting to hear back from Mits, then they will come get the tv from my house. So I'll be curious to see what happens by end of this week.

I assume TV Master is an authorized Mits servicer? I live near Hollywood and Mits has never referred me to them. What are they charging you for the house call? Please let us know how satisfied you are with them.

Yes, they are authorized. 50$ service call. They seem to know what they're doing as they had the problem identified in about 10 minutes.

I finally received my Mits 52525 new chassis after 6 weeks and 2 attempts at fixing. The TV worked when I received it back and I immediately sold it. Good luck for those hanging on. My new TV is not a Mits :)

That's a shrewd, if not devious, move. Did you fully disclose the situation to the buyer? haha. Also, how much did it sell for?

Yes, I disclosed the replaced chassis when I sold it. Actually given the feedback here and from my tech, the chassis fix is a good one. My tech said he had never had to do a repair on a Mits TV that had had its chassis replaced. I figured that was a selling point so I included in my description on craigslist. Despite all that, I was ready for a new TV anyway and couldn't wait 6 weeks without one while the repair was done. Sold for $300. There's others out there for more but I wanted a quick sale to free up the garage.

.......

OK, now I have to give Mits some credit. I faxed this estimate to them and to my shock they called me back within a couple days and offered to pay for all the parts, but no labor (parts = $660). So to fix I'll have about a 300$ labor charge. I was extremely professional on the phone w/them - not being angry or irrate or complaining. So considering I'm well out of warranty, I appreciate them doing this as I figured I'd be up scheit creek on this one. The only question is: will it hold?.........

don't give Mits to much credit or appreciation..........they are doing this because it is a California Consumer Protection law.

don't give Mits to much credit or appreciation..........they are doing this because it is a California Consumer Protection law.

True, but other vendors have problems of similar scale and are not nearly as easy to get accomodations from. I have been servicing television for dealers who are very customer service oriented for nearly thirty years and Mitsubishi has consistently been far more willing to accomodate clients with OOW issues when there are systematic failures like these. With most other vendors you would have to take them to court to get anything on a 4 year old set. Mitsubishi has replaced or repaired thousands.

I have been a big critic of Mitsubishi in many ways over the past few decades, but they do deserve credit (relative to their competitors) for trying to take care of their customers.

Now if they could just figure out where to buy decent caps...

i think Mits has been sued over these sets already.........
They should be covering all cost not just parts.
They should be required to attempt to contact all owners and post recall notices on these sets.
Think of all the owners who paid full repair costs or just gave up and gave away/trashed their sets. Of course many of these will never buy a Mits product again too.

I didn't say they deserve no credit just not so much.........just because they are a little less rotten then some others ........

IF mits would cover all the costs then they would deserve more credit.

Going away message

My 52725 got the BGLOD in May after a power failure; called the extended warranty people and they had a local company come and get it. There was some trouble because there was no serial number on the warranty company's records, but I pointed out to them that they paid for a repair (replaced DM board) last year, so they accepted the serial number from the service company. Since I'd bought it at Tweeter which no longer exists, if they hadn't accepted it, I'd have been screwed.

Anyway, the service company sends off the power supply board (?!) to Mits for replacement. I'd assumed they'd be sending in the whole chassis, which is why I went out and bought a 42" LCD (LG LH30) for my bedroom (to be temporarily housed in the great room where the Mits had been) the night the Mits failed. [I later returned the LG and ordered a Panasonic TC-P42G10 plasma from Amazon, with which I am most pleased.]

Weeks pass. I keep calling the service company and they keep telling me they have no information from Mits on a delivery date for the board; finally they suggest calling the warranty company and discussing a replacement. But I was leaving on vacation for a week; then, when I got back, things were a bit hectic, then I was too sick. Anyway, I finally called them last week. They offered a 60737 as a replacement but I told them I really didn't want another Mits; I've had too many TVs and VCRs from them fail. So I accepted the buyout of ~$1100 dollars. Now I'm waiting for the Panasonic TC-P58V10 to come out next month. So, I'll be leaving this thread. Thanks for all the great info. Goodbye

My 52725 finally started having problems with wavy lines and white spots in the picture. I called Mits and they said if I arranged to have a service tech diagnose the problem, they would participate in the repair cost. The Tech came out and said I needed a new light engine and chassis rebuild. Mits offered to pay for the parts, if I would pay for the labor. The labor costs was $300.00 plus the initial service call of $75.00, which would have brought the total to $375.00.

I explained to Mits that I was concerned about the chassis repair since I was doubtfull they would replace ALL of the capacitors and that I would again have this problem in the future. Mits agreed to re-evaluate their offer, and the following week said they would replace the set with a new 60737 model if I paid $360.00 toward the new set. I agreed so they issued a credit to the store where I originally purchased the set for the difference between the stores $1499.00 price for the 60737 and the $360.00 I agreed to pay. Since this was a credit on my store account, and they did not have the 60737 in stock and not expect any for a couple of weeks, I decided to use the $1250.00 credit toward the purchase of a new 54" Panasonic Plasma.

During the entire process Mits was very professional, and from the time of my initial contact offered to participate in the repair costs. Considering I only paid about $2600.00 for the 52725 4 years ago without an extended warranty, I felt that Mits' offer was very responsive to the problem.

i have a 62525 and i replaced bulb twice now. one just a month ago. my tv did the red lamp thing and replaced the caps. on the power board with the good pans. ones and then i tried to turn it back on and the green timer light wont stop flashing. is there a way around this timer. or to fix it?

:mad: plz help if there is any. all caps on power board look good but red soure light is on now.wtf?
mits. aka pos 62525?
do i need help or a new tv?

:mad: plz help if there is any. all caps on power board look good but red soure light is on now.wtf?
mits. aka pos 62525?
do i need help or a new tv?

It could be a bad lamp.

i replaced the lamp a month ago. i pulled it out first thing gave it a once over and it is good.
then i replaced all swollen caps on power board and now red source light is flashing. what next?

i replaced the lamp a month ago. i pulled it out first thing gave it a once over and it is good.
then i replaced all swollen caps on power board and now red source light is flashing. what next?

it's very normal with these sets that you replace some of the more noticeable or problematic caps and still have many other caps that are failing and in various states of degradation.

when owners have their electrical chassis sent in for a free rebuild to Mits repair center they replace over 100 parts/cap on the various boards...........:eek: just shows how big a problem the caps are. and how your chasing alot of electrical gremlins through so many bad caps on the boards.

suggest you have it diagnosed by a mits authorized service center then you contact Mits and they will offer to cover the rebuild parts costs and you pay the labor costs.

Mits rebuilds it and the service tech returns it in working order and then Mits will give you a one year warranty and replace your set if it happens again. it's your set, so up to you if you want to pay for the ~$200-300+ labor costs and deal with it and Mits to try and get it fixed. or keep DIY and hope you can repair it ok that way.

thanks. i contacted mits. and they are going to pay to have it fixed. I hope it doesnt work cuz i hate this tv. worst 3200 i ever spent. want a store credit to buy a dif. brand. we will c

Anyone have an idea what the used value of the TV is? About to move and can't find a basis for selling.

Well I finally made the call to Best Buy before my ext. warranty expired to resolve the "wavy line" issue. I spoke with the warranty repair rep today and they are not even trying to repair, They will be recommending replacement and I know await the call with the approval number.

My question now is what set should I be looking for as a good replacement that will not cost me additional money? I have the 52".

a mits 60737 or maybe a samsung or panasonic 50" plasma or a 52" Sony LCD would be good choices. hopefully you will not be out extra cash. good luck

When Mits took back my WD62725. They gave me a WD65835 and My GOD it was a night and day between the two Plus I got a five year parts and labor warranty from them as well. I have had this tv now for 10 months and I love it.

When Mits took back my WD62725. They gave me a WD65835 and My GOD it was a night and day between the two Plus I got a five year parts and labor warranty from them as well. I have had this tv now for 10 months and I love it.

You make me wish my 62725 would die.

Well I finally made the call to Best Buy before my ext. warranty expired to resolve the "wavy line" issue. I spoke with the warranty repair rep today and they are not even trying to repair, They will be recommending replacement and I know await the call with the approval number.

My question now is what set should I be looking for as a good replacement that will not cost me additional money? I have the 52".

Dang. That makes me mad!

I had the BB extended warranty and it expired in August 08. I was having the wavy lines, but only on my DVD player input (component), and only if the DVD player wasn't set progressive scan. Progressive made it look much better.

So if I had called BB back then, and complained about this, I wonder if they would have offered a replacement!?

I am not looking forward to the day when my TV dies, and I need to get it replaced, although from the sound of it, I might be able to get Mits to cover the chassis replacement for about $300 or so. Personally I would rather just get a replacement TV...

I already had the power board replaced under warranty, but the rest of the chassis is probably deteriorating every day...

Anyone have an idea what the used value of the TV is? About to move and can't find a basis for selling.

Let me begin this with the fact I may be the cheapest man alive. I was looking for an AV receiver for a buddy of mine's college aged son on Craigslist when I saw an ad with a WD-52725 and a midgrade Onkyo AVR. Both were near showroom condition. With the TV I received the owners manual, the service manual and a documented history of repair. The receiver was an Onkyo of the same vintage as the TV. I paid a little over a hundred dollars for both and for that price the seller was kind enough to drive about 30 miles to deliver it.

If your local Craigslist is anything like mine then if you type HDTV into the electronics search engine you will get many pages of HDTVs for sale. I fairly regularly see people giving HDTVs away when they are moving. I hope you have better luck selling yours than most folks. One problem with selling this Mitsubishi is that a google search of the model number turns up many, many unhappy owners due to the reliability of this model. A good way to get value of used stuff is to look at what the item has sold for recently on Ebay.

I had an odd thing happen to mine yesterday. The green timer light was flashing and it would not turn on. I hit the reset button and it didn't do anything. I then looked about the net and saw someone recommending holding the rest button down for two minutes. I did so and it turned on after doing so. In folks experience here, is this a harbinger that I may soon be seeing the Flashing Green Light of Death?

I called Mitsubishi after I got the set a couple of weeks ago requesting a firmware update. They wanted to know of any problems I had been experiencing that might require the update. Can anyone tell me the magic words to say to the person on the phone at Mitsubishi in order for for them to send me the firmware update?

Tell them that your over air channels are deleting when you turn off th tv and you have to do a rescan of them couple of times a week.

You make me wish my 62725 would die.

you don't have to wish that it dies.........it will.

what you need to wish is that mits would be so generous to other owners as they were to daniel murray

i have a 62525 and i replaced bulb twice now. one just a month ago. my tv did the red lamp thing and replaced the caps. on the power board with the good pans. ones and then i tried to turn it back on and the green timer light wont stop flashing. is there a way around this timer. or to fix it?

onemanshow - you might need to splice and install an in-line toggle switch on the orange wire to the FM board. Search this forum and you'll find more about it. That worked for my 62725 after repacing the capacitors.

you don't have to wish that it dies.........it will.

what you need to wish is that mits would be so generous to other owners as they were to daniel murray

Usually reading this thread makes me want to cry.

For the first time it made me laugh :)

you don't have to wish that it dies.........it will.


Yep.. My 62725, not quite 4.5 years old..has died with the "blinking green timer"
LED.. I have a friend who has the same set slighty older than mine which still
works, I have been telling him his day will come. I'll never buy another Mits tho..
my previous 26" Mits which is 20 years old still works fine.

Well i will be leavaing this thread and headed off to new lands with a Panasonic Viera 50"! Have to say that Best buy and the warranty repair crew were fantastic. Got the approval number and in 30 minutes at the store I walked out waiting delivery at the end of August!

Thank you all for your help over the past two years with various issues. good luck.

Add me to the list of BGLOD unhappy Mits users (52725). I lost power due to a tree on the power lines down the street, when I came back on generator power and eventually line power nothing but blinking green.

I am replacing it with the Samsung 63" plasma (I had been looking at the 73" Mits until this happened). Not sure if I want to try to repair it at this point (I believe I purchased it in November 2004 with a 3 year extended warranty from Tweeter). I haven't looked to see if I can find the paperwork, but I am pretty sure I didn't get a 5 year warranty.

This is the first TV I think I have ever purchased that didn't last at least 10 years (including an old Mits 27").

I have a brand new bulb still in the original packaging. If I decide not to attempt the repair (I haven't researched this thread yet to see what is involved), I may let both go for the price of the new bulb, stay tuned...

There are many posts in this thread on cap replacement -- just spend some time searching and browsing. Here is a summary:

Disassembly and removal of the chassis is not too difficult. It is time consuming and there are lots of screws to remove and cables to disconnect. It is best to video record these as you go, note the type of screws and where they go. Ditto the connectors. You will need an anti-static strap and anti-static bags to keep the boards safe while handling and soldering.

Choose capacitors with the lowest impedance and high temp ratings and make sure they will fit the board, including the height. If you are adventurous go to the next higher value in uF for extra margins and, if they won't fit lay the bigger caps on their side with a spot of silicone adhesive to hold in place. Digikey is a good source for Panasonic "FM" series caps. For surface mount I used "FK" series. There are other brands and types that will also work -- compare the specs.

As you swap out the caps keep a sketch of the layout and check each off as you go, marking things to keep them straight. Meter the installed cap to make sure the connection is good and there aren't any shorts or opens.

Some through-hole caps mount on double sided solder - through holes which make it difficult to remove and replace the caps. Also the surface mount caps are tricky. Do a Google search on soldering techniques and tools and practice first.

This is a ton of work. I could only do about one or two hours per evening before it became too tedious.

There are a lot of things that can go wrong -- caps accidentally in backwards, solder splatter causing shorts, damaged connectors, circuit traces that lift and/or break, static damage, etc. These sets are horribly complicated (what were the THINKING?) and there is a good chance that some mishap during the cap replacement process will render the set totally junk.

If this happens or you are not **very** careful and patient, consider listing the set on Craigslist for sale as "parts or repair" (most go for $100) and let someone else have all the fun.

If anyone has attempted this repair and failed and are looking to rid themselves of the tv or have it repaired, let me know. I have had lots of luck with these repairs. Im in Haddam, CT

Add me to the list of BGLOD unhappy Mits users (52725). I lost power due to a tree on the power lines down the street, when I came back on generator power and eventually line power nothing but blinking green.

I am replacing it with the Samsung 63" plasma (I had been looking at the 73" Mits until this happened). Not sure if I want to try to repair it at this point (I believe I purchased it in November 2004 with a 3 year extended warranty from Tweeter). I haven't looked to see if I can find the paperwork, but I am pretty sure I didn't get a 5 year warranty.

This is the first TV I think I have ever purchased that didn't last at least 10 years (including an old Mits 27").

I have a brand new bulb still in the original packaging. If I decide not to attempt the repair (I haven't researched this thread yet to see what is involved), I may let both go for the price of the new bulb, stay tuned...

If you feel like a drive to CT some day I will attempt the repair. To date I have 52 succesful repairs on this model and 3 in line so the number is soon to be 55. Havent been beaten yet.

Well I finally made the call to Best Buy before my ext. warranty expired to resolve the "wavy line" issue. I spoke with the warranty repair rep today and they are not even trying to repair, They will be recommending replacement and I know await the call with the approval number.

My question now is what set should I be looking for as a good replacement that will not cost me additional money? I have the 52".

What did you do with your Mitsu?

BB will be picking it up when they bring my new Panasonic Plasma on Friday.

I replaced 3300 caps on power board in Feb which fixed problem. This morning turned on set and heard high pitched squealing noise. Noise went away for few seconds came back, went away and came back so I turned power off. Figured it was a fan going bad. Turned it back on, did the same thing, set turned off after short period of time and red lamp indicator came on. I also noticed that the fan that runs all the time is no longer running. Any ideas what this is? I'm going to pull the boards back out and look at all the caps but I haven't seen any postings on this type of failure so I'm looking to see if anyone has any idea of what this might be. Thanks for any help.

I replaced 3300 caps on power board in Feb which fixed problem. This morning turned on set and heard high pitched squealing noise. Noise went away for few seconds came back, went away and came back so I turned power off. Figured it was a fan going bad. Turned it back on, did the same thing, set turned off after short period of time and red lamp indicator came on. I also noticed that the fan that runs all the time is no longer running. Any ideas what this is? I'm going to pull the boards back out and look at all the caps but I haven't seen any postings on this type of failure so I'm looking to see if anyone has any idea of what this might be. Thanks for any help.

I pulled power board and visually inspected caps and none of them have any sign of bungling. Also the fan initially runs when I plug in set but when red lamp indicator comes on it shuts off. When I unplug and plug back in the fan starts again and the green light indicator flashes for 30 sec and goes off. When I turn on set I have audio but no bulb, I hear a high pitch noise on and off. If I power down it stays on until set shuts off and red lamp indicator comes on.

I pulled power board and visually inspected caps and none of them have any sign of bungling. Also the fan initially runs when I plug in set but when red lamp indicator comes on it shuts off. When I unplug and plug back in the fan starts again and the green light indicator flashes for 30 sec and goes off. When I turn on set I have audio but no bulb, I hear a high pitch noise on and off. If I power down it stays on until set shuts off and red lamp indicator comes on.

I put in new spare bulb I have and it made no difference. I powered set up without bulb assembly by making switch and high pitch humming sound is coming from area where bulb assembly goes. This hum is not constant. It comes on for a few seconds than goes off and repeats this pattern until I power off at which time it remains on until set shut down and red lamp indicator comes on. Any help with diagnosing this failure would be appreciated.

This sounds like what happened to my 62725, after I replaced an aging bulb. I did the mass cap replacement, but in the process I did find four bulging caps. Look at the "cluster of four" caps on botht he FMT and DM board, and see if they're bulging too. But as you've read here, you are likely to fix one problem only to uncover another, or have another failure very soon. Really is best to do a complete chassis rebuild, which means replace all SMT caps on all boards, at the minimum.

If anyone recognizes my name, you'll know I was one of the first that replaced most (but not all) SMTs on all boards except the signal board.

My set has been running great for almost a year. Well, last night I looked up and it had the GBLOD again! I hit the reset and everything was fine.

Tonight, the picture went to some strange shapes and colors (no pattern to it) and froze again. (uh oh) I reset and it again came back. About 5 minutes later, the picture froze and went to GBLOD again. This time resets and power cycles did not fix the issue. :(

I guess I'll call Mits tomorrow to see if they want to help me. It's only fair, I've helped 10's if not 100's on this board. They owe me a little. :D

If not, I guess I'm off to another manufacturer. Problem is it's hard to find a decent looking cabinet that fits in my wall unit like this one does. (matching base - I have the WD-62825 "diamond") I'm quite certain it has fake diamonds in it now, for sure. :)

Any ideas on some good sets out there? Or how to fix this one? (I'm not married to DLP by any means.)

This sounds like what happened to my 62725, after I replaced an aging bulb. I did the mass cap replacement, but in the process I did find four bulging caps. Look at the "cluster of four" caps on botht he FMT and DM board, and see if they're bulging too. But as you've read here, you are likely to fix one problem only to uncover another, or have another failure very soon. Really is best to do a complete chassis rebuild, which means replace all SMT caps on all boards, at the minimum.

Inspected all the boards and found 2 bulging caps 16V 1000mf. Not sure which boards the FMT or DM are. This board has the PC input and audio connections on it. It seems that replacing caps is temporary fix. Since the design doesn't allow for proper cooling it's a good bet that failures are only a matter of time. Going to replace these 2 and the 2 next to them and give it a try but I'm not going to change all the caps just to have them fail again. Won't ever buy a Mit again. Priced plasma's today. Can get a Panasonic for less that half of what I paid for this POS! Good luck to the rest of you. Have a brand new bulb that is still in the box I'll be selling.

If anyone recognizes my name, you'll know I was one of the first that replaced most (but not all) SMTs on all boards except the signal board.

My set has been running great for almost a year. Well, last night I looked up and it had the GBLOD again! I hit the reset and everything was fine.

Tonight, the picture went to some strange shapes and colors (no pattern to it) and froze again. (uh oh) I reset and it again came back. About 5 minutes later, the picture froze and went to GBLOD again. This time resets and power cycles did not fix the issue. :(

I guess I'll call Mits tomorrow to see if they want to help me. It's only fair, I've helped 10's if not 100's on this board. They owe me a little. :D

If not, I guess I'm off to another manufacturer. Problem is it's hard to find a decent looking cabinet that fits in my wall unit like this one does. (matching base - I have the WD-62825 "diamond") I'm quite certain it has fake diamonds in it now, for sure. :)

Any ideas on some good sets out there? Or how to fix this one? (I'm not married to DLP by any means.)

I've not run into a problem that required your help (YET!) but you sure have helped countless folks fix their sets. I can't help but think if you can't fix your problem nobody else here can.

Good luck to you. I hope Mits takes care of you!

Inspected all the boards and found 2 bulging caps 16V 1000mf. Not sure which boards the FMT or DM are. This board has the PC input and audio connections on it. It seems that replacing caps is temporary fix. Since the design doesn't allow for proper cooling it's a good bet that failures are only a matter of time. Going to replace these 2 and the 2 next to them and give it a try but I'm not going to change all the caps just to have them fail again. Won't ever buy a Mit again. Priced plasma's today. Can get a Panasonic for less that half of what I paid for this POS! Good luck to the rest of you. Have a brand new bulb that is still in the box I'll be selling.

My bulb just went, I'd be interested in buying yours. Let me know what you think.

I've not run into a problem that required your help (YET!) but you sure have helped countless folks fix their sets. I can't help but think if you can't fix your problem nobody else here can.

Good luck to you. I hope Mits takes care of you!


Thanks Psycho. Funny thing. I plugged it in this morning and after a following reset I was able to get it to boot. However, it failed again a few minutes later.

It looks like I'm dealing with a thermal issue once again. I'm putting my money on some of the SMTs I didn't replace, of course.

Paid 6,000 on 11/11/04 for this thing (guess it's getting old but you'd think for the money....). If I wasn't so happy with the looks of the set and how it matched my wall unit / living room, it'd be at the curb.

decisions descions....

Two days ago the BGLOD appeared, my chassis was replaced last year. I reset the 52525 I have and then the continuous red light appeared telling me I needed a new bulb.

How can I determine if the bulb is bad? I don't want to pay for a bulb if it's another problem.

I still have two months left on my 5 year warranty.

I also just ordered a new Panny TC-P54G10 just in case this thing is shot.

Any advice is appreciated.

Two days ago the BGLOD appeared, my chassis was replaced last year. I reset the 52525 I have and then the continuous red light appeared telling me I needed a new bulb.

How can I determine if the bulb is bad? I don't want to pay for a bulb if it's another problem.

I still have two months left on my 5 year warranty.

I also just ordered a new Panny TC-P54G10 just in case this thing is shot.

Any advice is appreciated.


Well I just pulled my bulb and clearly it is blown so off to the electronics store to drop $229.00 on a new one. I'm sure I can get it cheaper but I don't want to wait for shipping.

Two days ago the BGLOD appeared, my chassis was replaced last year. I reset the 52525 I have and then the continuous red light appeared telling me I needed a new bulb.

How can I determine if the bulb is bad? I don't want to pay for a bulb if it's another problem.


I've heard that if you look at the bottom of the lamp, and it appears to be overly frosted, it indicates the bulb is going or is bad. You may want to switch it out anyway if you've not done it before, or you are over 5000 hrs on the bulb. (Somewhere I've seen that the bulb should be switched at 3000 hrs). You can check the hours by entering the service menu, which you access by having the TV menu up, and entering 2470, <enter> to see what's the lamp history. The first number is the total hours on the set, and the next numbers are the hours on the bulb, going from most recent going back. This may not be case if you pulled the lamp and reset by saying you installed a new lamp.

Because I'm running a rebuilt chassis, it would be tough for me to believe that the steady red light may be just a bad bulb, but there's no way of telling for sure. If you got the BGLOD that can't be reset, I wouldn't hesitate in getting a tech in before your warranty expires, but if you only have the red light for switch out, the tech may just want to sell you a new bulb or cartridge. Mits may offer you a new TV especially if they had rebuilt the chassis in the last year, if it isn't the bulb; it may be worth it to remind them of the problems you had.

Well I just pulled my bulb and clearly it is blown so off to the electronics store to drop $229.00 on a new one. I'm sure I can get it cheaper but I don't want to wait for shipping.

Mac sent you a private email on my bulb

i was going to install switch and i touched my voltage meter to something and there was a pop. now i have power to bottom of board but not to top. i looked at only fuse i could find on bottom and it was hot. any ideas or does someone want to sell a power supply before curbing there set.

I had BB remove my BGLOD 52725 today when the brought my 63" Samsung Plasma (sweet unit so far!).

I have a 52725 stand and spare bulb still in the original shipping package from Mits. If anyone in the New England area is looking for either of these items, or the remote or users manual, let me know via PM and I am sure I can give you a good price. Prefer MA or Southern NH. I also still have the IR controllers.

To those who've had Mits rebuild their chasis (mine's being done right now), how are the rebuilds holding up?

I am going to unsubscribe from this thread as I am no longer an owner. I am enjoying my 63" Samsung 590. I wish you all the best with your DLPs, hopefully those who haven't had BGLOD won't!

I'll let the unused 52725 bulb go for $125 (unopened shipment from Mits), the 52725 stand (grey) for $150 and the remote and manual for $35. PM me if interested. Prefer someone in Southern NH or MA to arrange pickup, otherwise pay for shipping / insurance on the bulb or remote. I won't ship the stand.

Best of luck,

To those who've had Mits rebuild their chasis (mine's being done right now), how are the rebuilds holding up?

Mine lasted less than a year before the wavy lines returned. I was also right at the very beginning of the rebuilds so perhaps I got one of the "old" rebuilt units that did not receive an extensive overhaul.

Have concluded the light engine is the problem. Have sound but no picture, high pitched intermittent noise coming from engine (like trying to start but can't). After about a min it powers down and red lamp comes on. Searched and could find no info on trying to repair. Found a lot of horror stories about these sets and Mit's customer service. Since I have no warranty and the light engine to costly to replace it's time to move on. Won't be a Mit's that's for sure. Have a brand new lamp still in box will sell for $85 shipped. If anyone is interested in other parts contact me. Best of luck to all of you with DLP's.

Actually, I've heard quite the opposite about Mitsu's customer service. They're pretty much only charging for labor to do a complete rebuild of the chassis. So, $250 for a fully rebuilt chassis. Sure is cheaper than a new TV.

To your problem though, it might be the ballast and not the LE if the lamp isn't even coming on. You can pick up a ballast for ~$60 from these folks,

http://www.discount-merchant.com/We-provide-factory-original-parts-worldwide-p/1081945-mitsubishi.htm

It's still cheaper than a new TV.

Actually, I've heard quite the opposite about Mitsu's customer service. They're pretty much only charging for labor to do a complete rebuild of the chassis. So, $250 for a fully rebuilt chassis. Sure is cheaper than a new TV.

To your problem though, it might be the ballast and not the LE if the lamp isn't even coming on. You can pick up a ballast for ~$60 from these folks,

http://www.discount-merchant.com/We-provide-factory-original-parts-worldwide-p/1081945-mitsubishi.htm

It's still cheaper than a new TV.

Is there a way to determine if the ballast is bad. The first couple of times trying to power it up it sounded like a bearing going bad along with the high pitch sound. Now I only get the high pitch sound. Thanks

I'm sure there's a way but I'm not sure what the procedure is. I'm no expert but, ballasts in fluorescent lighting tend to give off a high pitch sound when going out in my experience. And, for $60 it's a cheap place to start, cheaper than the LE at least. Worst case it does not fix it and you just re-sell the part. There's clearly a demand for them.

If the ballast is geting the lamp enable from the LE, the PS voltage is normal, and the lamp has been changed, if the lamp still will not start or stay running, you likely have a bad ballast. There are no good ways to test them beyond this. The lamp and ballast are really a system, and it is very difficult to simulate the lamp and to measure the output of the ballast. Most troubleshooting in this type of set is pretty much the above checks and replacing the lamp, then the ballast.

If the ballast is geting the lamp enable from the LE, the PS voltage is normal, and the lamp has been changed, if the lamp still will not start or stay running, you likely have a bad ballast. There are no good ways to test them beyond this. The lamp and ballast are really a system, and it is very difficult to simulate the lamp and to measure the output of the ballast. Most troubleshooting in this type of set is pretty much the above checks and replacing the lamp, then the ballast.


The noise I heard is what bothers me when I tried powering it up the first 2 or 3 times. I thought it was a fan bearing or something but when I checked the fan was ok. I don't know anything about the color wheel so I am concerned that the noise was coming from that. The only thing I hear now is that higher pitched sound of something trying to start. It stops and than tries again. This goes on 4 or 5 times before it powers down and the red lamp comes on. Could this be ballast issue or something else. I put a different bulb in and it did the same thing. No light what so ever. This was a bulb I replaced because it was getting dim but still worked. The noise that sounded like a bearing going bad makes we wonder how the ballast would correct that.

Electrical components can make noise if they're failing.

The noise I heard is what bothers me when I tried powering it up the first 2 or 3 times. I thought it was a fan bearing or something but when I checked the fan was ok. I don't know anything about the color wheel so I am concerned that the noise was coming from that. The only thing I hear now is that higher pitched sound of something trying to start. It stops and than tries again. This goes on 4 or 5 times before it powers down and the red lamp comes on. Could this be ballast issue or something else. I put a different bulb in and it did the same thing. No light what so ever. This was a bulb I replaced because it was getting dim but still worked. The noise that sounded like a bearing going bad makes we wonder how the ballast would correct that.

Im thinking a color wheel check is a good place to start. If you look into the set directly in the middle and move slightly to the right you will see a plastic cover on the light engine. It can be removed to inspect the wheel. First get some rubber gloves and with the set unplugged, try to physicaly spin the wheel. If it turns with no problems, get some saftey glasses, wear a tshirt with a turtle neck over it and plug in the set. This clothing is in case the wheel shatters when you turn on the set. Its glass and can spin up to 10,000 rpm. Watch for the action on the wheel. I have had several of these wheels come loose from the factory and tightening the screws solves the problem. The ballast will only start after all moving parts are reporting proper speed. The other thing is to be sure all fans are spinning. Still possible you have a cap problem. These sets have over 100 caps that can cause any number of symptoms and a visual inspection will not point them out. Hope this helps

Anyone have an idea what the used value of the TV is? About to move and can't find a basis for selling.

They are worth about 10%-15% precent of what they were new. $300 for a 52" and $400.00 for a 62". Check Craigslist as a price comparison but be aware some people will over price them. Too many people know how to read reveiws these days and this set is #1 in problems to be followed by Sony WEGA with optical block problems. I would sell with honest mention of if it has been serviced or not and as is sale.

I just received my 62725 back yesterday from TV Masters. In all it took about 2 weeks, which is faster than I expected, so Mits must have their turn-around time on these repairs down well, as it was shipped to a factory in Georgia. TVM did a good job, too, so I'd recommend them to others. On the stupid side, I forgot to remove the cable card from my set when they took it, so it's probably in a factory bin somewhere now.

I called Mits to ask about a warranty on the chasis rebuild and the tech told me not to worry and that if it happens again just call them back and they will take care of it.

So all in all, I still give Mits some credit for taking care of this quite efficiently and professionally, with my tv being well out of warranty. They really could have given me the run-around or made things difficult, but they didn't. I was expecting my set to be gone for a month at least.

Thanks Lithium, that's good news to know. Back in September/November last year, it took 4-6 weeks to get the rebuild back, and its good that Mits will stand by it for a while if it does fail. I still think they should have recalled the sets/chassis when this BGLOD started because it's due to bad design and/or capacitors, and the significant investment that lots of us put into this series because of Mits past reputation as a quality builder.

Im thinking a color wheel check is a good place to start. If you look into the set directly in the middle and move slightly to the right you will see a plastic cover on the light engine. It can be removed to inspect the wheel. First get some rubber gloves and with the set unplugged, try to physicaly spin the wheel. If it turns with no problems, get some saftey glasses, wear a tshirt with a turtle neck over it and plug in the set. This clothing is in case the wheel shatters when you turn on the set. Its glass and can spin up to 10,000 rpm. Watch for the action on the wheel. I have had several of these wheels come loose from the factory and tightening the screws solves the problem. The ballast will only start after all moving parts are reporting proper speed. The other thing is to be sure all fans are spinning. Still possible you have a cap problem. These sets have over 100 caps that can cause any number of symptoms and a visual inspection will not point them out. Hope this helps

As I look in the back and it appears your talking about a black cover on the top. If that is correct I was able to remove 3 screws but there is one in the back center that has hardly any room to get a screw drive on and it also appears that there is one in the back rt corner that is screwed in from the bottom. There is discussion on page 153/4 about voltages. I check J14 and have constant 5v on lamplitz. Have 5v on J9 1&2 and 12v on the other. So all supplied voltage is correct. I inspected ballast board and don't see any indication of failed components. When I power up I also smell the dreaded electric burn coming out of the air duct above the lamp so I think the failure is in the light engine. Not going to put that kind of money into set. The threads on page 153 have a tech analysis saying (5. Lamp enable line at J14 connector on the Engine Driver PCB switches to 5 volts after turn on but does not go back to 0-volts (low) after 5 seconds, 12 and 5 volt supplies are good. Suspect the Light Engine part # 939P977010).
Would like to physically confirm color wheel so if you could confirm I'm looking at the right cover I would appreciate it. This fix would be more cost than the set is worth. I'd do a ballast board but not a little engine. Thanks

Im thinking a color wheel check is a good place to start. If you look into the set directly in the middle and move slightly to the right you will see a plastic cover on the light engine. It can be removed to inspect the wheel. First get some rubber gloves and with the set unplugged, try to physicaly spin the wheel. If it turns with no problems, get some saftey glasses, wear a tshirt with a turtle neck over it and plug in the set. This clothing is in case the wheel shatters when you turn on the set. Its glass and can spin up to 10,000 rpm. Watch for the action on the wheel. I have had several of these wheels come loose from the factory and tightening the screws solves the problem. The ballast will only start after all moving parts are reporting proper speed. The other thing is to be sure all fans are spinning. Still possible you have a cap problem. These sets have over 100 caps that can cause any number of symptoms and a visual inspection will not point them out. Hope this helps

JJB, well I finally got the cover off and can't believe what I found. The color wheel is divided up into 7 pieces. These pieces are sandwiched between two plates which are pressed on to the shaft. One of these pieces has shifted outward making a slightly bigger diam. than the rest of them The piece that is shifted hits the bottom of the housing when rotating causing the noise I hear. I taped on the piece lightly and it moved enough to not hit. I powered up again and within a few second the piece was hitting again. I was able to remove the color wheel and the piece move outward again. I don't see anyway to tighten the plates that sandwich the pieces and hold them tight. Does anyone have any idea how this could be fix. When I checked the other day the part is not sold separately. I'm thinking about trying some loctite 401 but I'm concerned it might effect the wheel balance. Anyone have any thoughts or know where I might get a color wheel.

JJB, well I finally got the cover off and can't believe what I found. The color wheel is divided up into 7 pieces. These pieces look to be glued at the base around the shaft. One of these pieces has shifted outward making a slightly bigger diam. than the rest of them The piece that is shifted hits the bottom of the housing when rotating causing the noise I hear. I'm sure it never gets up to speed and I think it sticks sometimes and doesn't rotate at all. I have taped on it lightly but can't get it to move in. Does anyone have any idea how I could fix this.

Replace the color wheel. There are likely some dead sets out there that you could get a pull from.

Going away message

My 52725 got the BGLOD in May after a power failure; called the extended warranty people and they had a local company come and get it. There was some trouble because there was no serial number on the warranty company's records, but I pointed out to them that they paid for a repair (replaced DM board) last year, so they accepted the serial number from the service company. Since I'd bought it at Tweeter which no longer exists, if they hadn't accepted it, I'd have been screwed.

Anyway, the service company sends off the power supply board (?!) to Mits for replacement. I'd assumed they'd be sending in the whole chassis, which is why I went out and bought a 42" LCD (LG LH30) for my bedroom (to be temporarily housed in the great room where the Mits had been) the night the Mits failed. [I later returned the LG and ordered a Panasonic TC-P42G10 plasma from Amazon, with which I am most pleased.]

Weeks pass. I keep calling the service company and they keep telling me they have no information from Mits on a delivery date for the board; finally they suggest calling the warranty company and discussing a replacement. But I was leaving on vacation for a week; then, when I got back, things were a bit hectic, then I was too sick. Anyway, I finally called them last week. They offered a 60737 as a replacement but I told them I really didn't want another Mits; I've had too many TVs and VCRs from them fail. So I accepted the buyout of ~$1100 dollars. Now I'm waiting for the Panasonic TC-P58V10 to come out next month. So, I'll be leaving this thread. Thanks for all the great info. Goodbye

Arrghhh! It's back! I thought the warranty company would tell the repair place to forget about it and junk the set, but apparently not. The power supply board that had been on order for a couple of months came in, they stuck it in and the set works, so they brought it back to me yesterday. So I guess I'll have to live with it until it finally, really, truly dies. Meanwhile, I put the plasma upstairs in the bedroom, and now I have to figure out what to do with the CRT that had been there. Don't want to get rid of it right away, in case the Mits dies again. Oh well; I suppose it's for the best, I'm not in a position to buy a (second) new, larger plasma for downstairs at the moment anyway. Plus, the P58V10's haven't come out yet.

Replace the color wheel. There are likely some dead sets out there that you could get a pull from.

Update for anyone interested. I bought loctite high temp adhesive and used it to fix the loose piece on color wheel. Put back together and set is now working again. Makes me wonder what percent of the optical engine failures out there are from the glass moving on the color wheel and not an electrical problem. They use some type of adhesive to hold pieces in place. Movement of one piece will take the set out. I suspect heat is the cause for the adhesive failure. The loctite is rated at 120C so it should last. The fix wasn't that bad. The hardest part was getting the plastic cover off the engine. The are 5 screws that have to be remove. The back rt corner is the real difficult one.

..... Plus, the P58V10's haven't come out yet.

check with Chris at Cleveland plasma, i think he has them in stock for order, $2600 delivered total. But if he has any left I would get the Pioneer 600M or go bigger with the 65" S10 panny at $3000 or the 65" V10 panny should be out soon.

Update for anyone interested. I bought loctite high temp adhesive and used it to fix the loose piece on color wheel. Put back together and set is now working again. Makes me wonder what percent of the optical engine failures out there are from the glass moving on the color wheel and not an electrical problem. They use some type of adhesive to hold pieces in place. Movement of one piece will take the set out. I suspect heat is the cause for the adhesive failure. The loctite is rated at 120C so it should last. The fix wasn't that bad. The hardest part was getting the plastic cover off the engine. The are 5 screws that have to be remove. The back rt corner is the real difficult one.

The one set I bought off CL with a bad wheel fits your description. Except, the piece had loosened enough to fall off the wheel completely and shatter. I could tell it was a clean piece, off of the color wheel pie. I ended up buying a light engine on ebay.

Good work, glad it's working again.

Update for anyone interested. I bought loctite high temp adhesive and used it to fix the loose piece on color wheel. Put back together and set is now working again. Makes me wonder what percent of the optical engine failures out there are from the glass moving on the color wheel and not an electrical problem. They use some type of adhesive to hold pieces in place. Movement of one piece will take the set out. I suspect heat is the cause for the adhesive failure. The loctite is rated at 120C so it should last. The fix wasn't that bad. The hardest part was getting the plastic cover off the engine. The are 5 screws that have to be remove. The back rt corner is the real difficult one.
Thats good news that the set is working again. If it works for more than an hour I would say your in good shape. Sorry I didnt include the tricks on how to remove the LE cover. I use a phillips screwdriver bit and a 1/4 inch wrench to turn it. I have a Samsung that threw the piece out altogether so I may try what you did to get it running again. Its a 2003 set and I dont want to buy a wheel for it so it just sitting with many others waiting on a decision of strip or keep. Thanks for the info, JJB

I recently tried to self service my mitsu with no avail. The two wire connector that the ballast/bulb plugs into got loose, and fell out of the connector. It was well out of warranty range, so I opted to open the bad boy up, and just put the connector back where it's supposed to go.

20 screws later and I found the problem, put the plug back in with some glue to hold it together better, and pulled it all back together.

Now when I plug in the TV, the speakers have a low hum/hiss for ~3 seconds, a small "pop" then shuts off. five seconds later, does the same thing - power switch turn on, speakers hum, small pop, off. cycles this exact same thing for minutes at a time until I unplug it.

the initial sound comes from where the power wire plugs in on the left hand side, and no other sounds come from the lamp power supply (that I hear, anyway)

The LED has no lights on off, green, or red, whatsoever. I've pulled apart the back again, look for loose wires, pulled connections, and I can't see much of anything. I didn't have to take any board connections apart to just plug the connector back in the hole, so I can't figure it out.

Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks!!

I recently tried to self service my mitsu with no avail. The two wire connector that the ballast/bulb plugs into got loose, and fell out of the connector. It was well out of warranty range, so I opted to open the bad boy up, and just put the connector back where it's supposed to go.

20 screws later and I found the problem, put the plug back in with some glue to hold it together better, and pulled it all back together.

Now when I plug in the TV, the speakers have a low hum/hiss for ~3 seconds, a small "pop" then shuts off. five seconds later, does the same thing - power switch turn on, speakers hum, small pop, off. cycles this exact same thing for minutes at a time until I unplug it.

the initial sound comes from where the power wire plugs in on the left hand side, and no other sounds come from the lamp power supply (that I hear, anyway)

The LED has no lights on off, green, or red, whatsoever. I've pulled apart the back again, look for loose wires, pulled connections, and I can't see much of anything. I didn't have to take any board connections apart to just plug the connector back in the hole, so I can't figure it out.

Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks!!
Try the troubleshooting in steps. First, make sure all of the tamper doors are in place. The door for the lamp has a micro switch that needs to make contact or the set wont start boot. Also the filter that has to be removed for the rear cover to be removed has to go back in due to another micro switch. If I remember correctly, these covers off will not allow any led s to come on. I had a set for repair once that did this and the DIY repair failed because the filter cover switch wire was pulled out of its socket just enough to stop contact from being made. Let me know if this helps. I can assist with other problems. I have repaired my 60th Mitsu DLP so I have some experience with these sets.

I have put all the screws back twice now to see if my tampering and tinkering helped with no avail. All screws put back in place where they should be, and still just a small pop - speaker hiss - cycle off - repeat.

thanks for your help so far but I think I may have to call a technician out for this one! =(

Well, I've finally had the misfortune of the the BGLOD :(.
The only saving grace is that we bought the extended warranty at the time purchase. The funny thing is that it's got, almost to the day, one year left on it. :)
Hopefully the service company that comes out will have some knowledge of this issue and be able to resolve this quickly.

I currently own a WD62725.

It is in the shop for repair at the moment. The TV started to show the wavy, scrolling, diagonal lines on non-HD signals. The repair shop ended sending the chassis to Mitsubishi and they said it could take as long as 3 weeks to get the chassis back.

Does 3 weeks sound right?

I have put all the screws back twice now to see if my tampering and tinkering helped with no avail. All screws put back in place where they should be, and still just a small pop - speaker hiss - cycle off - repeat.

thanks for your help so far but I think I may have to call a technician out for this one! =(

Sorry you had to call someone. Please let us know the end result.

I currently own a WD62725.

It is in the shop for repair at the moment. The TV started to show the wavy, scrolling, diagonal lines on non-HD signals. The repair shop ended sending the chassis to Mitsubishi and they said it could take as long as 3 weeks to get the chassis back.

Does 3 weeks sound right? Sounds right. 3 to 5 is the norm depending on the turn around time at Mitsu and your repair shop.

Does anyone know if there are HID LED lamp replacments out for Mits or any other DLP/ LCD projectors available?

Anyone know of any sources for FMT board for WD-52725 aside from PTS Corp? They are out of stock on mine (part # 930B924002) but will repair for $325. Looking for cheaper options if possible.

-Chad

Wanted to post this here too:

The only determination I used to find out the board was bad was by disconnecting the FC connector that goes to the board. Once I remove that from the chain then the TV initializes after 60-70 seconds (meaning the timer light stops flashing).

I assumed this meant (per the bulletin I have) that the FMT board is bad. I've replaced the 4 vented 680uf/16v capacitors on the board with identical values from ones I bought via www.mouser.com.

Any further suggestions before I go spending $325 to replace my FMT board?

-Chad

Wanted to post this here too:

The only determination I used to find out the board was bad was by disconnecting the FC connector that goes to the board. Once I remove that from the chain then the TV initializes after 60-70 seconds (meaning the timer light stops flashing).

I assumed this meant (per the bulletin I have) that the FMT board is bad. I've replaced the 4 vented 680uf/16v capacitors on the board with identical values from ones I bought via www.mouser.com.

Any further suggestions before I go spending $325 to replace my FMT board?

-Chad

instead of spending the $325 on one board repaired (with good probability of others needing repair also) you could spend ~$200-300 in labor and let a repair shop send the complete electrical chassis into the Mitsubishi national service center for rebuild on Mits.

Then you get it back with a one year warranty from Mits for replacement if it breaks down again.

no it's not a ~$20 DIY repair but better option then the $325 on one board fix. the mits service center will replace over 100+ caps/parts on the various boards and you get the one year warranty through mits usa.

Well, I'm back. :rolleyes:

Just looking for thoughts on where I should go from here.

I was having issues with my WD-62725 back in March/April this year, I (luckily) did what I hardly ever do, bought the warrenty. (Warrentech) I called them, they sent a service guy out, he diagnosed it, pulled the chassis, sent it to Mits for a rebuild, around 6 weeks later (seemed longer) got it back, seemed to be fine.

After a bit though, I started to see some of the same issues (slight "flickering" of the brightness levels) about the same time it started to do the same old "lamp is overheated, TV will shut down...) thing again. Wife tells me it does this sometimes many times a day, sometimes not so much. It also does the bit where you try to start it up, the fan runs, steady green light, no picture. It did that to me 3 times in a row last night, before it finally fired up.

I'm hoping to get a replacement set, either out of the warrenty company (warranty still good till April 2010) or Mits. They did a chassis rebuild, and quite frankly I don't want to have a dead set for another 6 weeks or so, and don't trust the repairs long term.

Would calling Mits be the way to go, or would they direct me to the Warranty company? It seems like Mits is giving the better resolutions to me, replacement sets vs $$ that won't buy the same set that Mits gives from the warranty company.

Thoughts?

Bruce

if it's still under the ext warranty i would go through them since it's covered for now.

Well count me in as another BGLOD victim. Hopefully, though, I won't be a victim for long. I've already spoken to Mitsi and have had the repair folks out and am going to try to work with Mits on getting a replacement with a new model instead of trying to fix this. Crossing my fingers!!!

this is an update to my story which started circa post 6619. anyway, my set has been back from mits chasis rebuild about 3 weeks now and working well until... i try to install a cable card.

when the CC is inserted, the tv promts an error screen saying it doesn't recognize/understand the input. the CC won't show up in the device menu, either. the TimeWarner rep who was here tried 2 different CC's, but the same error occurs.

TVMasters (auth rep) said that it would need sending back to Mits to be fixed. this is ridiculous... and i'm now really getting aggravated by Mits.

does anyone here have any suggestions? i'm not sending this POS back and paying labor again and losing it for 2.5 weeks. so i'll be forced to get a cable box, which TW charges more for per month. thanks Mits, love ya.

this is seperate but related to my last post. so to sweeten the deal, TVMasters calls me and tells me that Mits only paid them for the chasis rebuild. can someone w/more expertise explain to me what the hell is going on w/these rebuilds? my invoice estimate from TVmasters states three things for my BGLOD:

1) a chasis assembly fix for 300$
2) a lamp assembly fix for 250.
3) 300 labor.

when i faxed this into mits originally, the rep stated that mits would cover both and that i only had to pay the 300 labor, so that 300 was my total cost. (i wouldn't have agreed to do this if i had to shell 600).

tv masters (auth rep) is telling me that "lamp assembly" means a new lamp was installed, so is there a difference between a new lamp and a "lamp asembly"? is this true? mits tells me they won't pay for a new lamp, yet originally they told me both these things would be covered, which doesn't make sense. i don't know who to believe, so i hope someone here can help.

btw, what do the auth reps do for 300$ in labor??? as far as i know, they put my tv in a box, ship it to the mits rebuild factory, and charge me 300$ for it.

i now officialy hate mits and will never buy another of their products again.:mad:

Well, I have/had the BLOG on my 62725 and after changing all of the through-hole electrolytics with no improvement I tried the switch fix with good results, sort of: The switch worked as I was immediately rewarded with a blue screen and when I reconnected the antenna I got a perfect picture and sound so I took it one step further. Being the basically lazy person that I am, I built a simple circuit that performed the switch function for me. I thought I had a simple, elegant, cheap automatic fix (that I am planning to post here when I am sure it is not the problem) because when I hooked it up, I once again had success - perfect picture and sound … from the digital tuner. But from the sat receiver (HDMI) or the DVD input (RGB) or the one analog channel that I have I get the wrong colors – basically little or no red. I am going to remove my little circuit this weekend and try the raw switch mode to make sure the circuit is not the problem, but I thought I wouldn’t wait to ask if anyone had any thoughts as to where I should start to look for the color/ input problem.

__________________
“If necessity is the mother of invention, then laziness must be its father.”

this is an update to my story which started circa post 6619. anyway, my set has been back from mits chasis rebuild about 3 weeks now and working well until... i try to install a cable card.

when the CC is inserted, the tv promts an error screen saying it doesn't recognize/understand the input. the CC won't show up in the device menu, either. the TimeWarner rep who was here tried 2 different CC's, but the same error occurs.

TVMasters (auth rep) said that it would need sending back to Mits to be fixed. this is ridiculous... and i'm now really getting aggravated by Mits.

does anyone here have any suggestions? i'm not sending this POS back and paying labor again and losing it for 2.5 weeks. so i'll be forced to get a cable box, which TW charges more for per month. thanks Mits, love ya.

get a Tivo HD and use 1 M or 2 S cablecards in it. you will love it. yes it does cost more per month as you will have a sub fee to tivo (or buy a lifetime on the unit). plus when your mits is finally dead you just get another display and keep on using the Tivo HD with it.

this is seperate but related to my last post. so to sweeten the deal, TVMasters calls me and tells me that Mits only paid them for the chasis rebuild. can someone w/more expertise explain to me what the hell is going on w/these rebuilds? my invoice estimate from TVmasters states three things for my BGLOD:

1) a chasis assembly fix for 300$
2) a lamp assembly fix for 250.
3) 300 labor.

when i faxed this into mits originally, the rep stated that mits would cover both and that i only had to pay the 300 labor, so that 300 was my total cost. (i wouldn't have agreed to do this if i had to shell 600).

tv masters (auth rep) is telling me that "lamp assembly" means a new lamp was installed, so is there a difference between a new lamp and a "lamp asembly"? is this true? mits tells me they won't pay for a new lamp, yet originally they told me both these things would be covered, which doesn't make sense. i don't know who to believe, so i hope someone here can help.

btw, what do the auth reps do for 300$ in labor??? as far as i know, they put my tv in a box, ship it to the mits rebuild factory, and charge me 300$ for it.

i now officialy hate mits and will never buy another of their products again.:mad:

#1
the $300 chassis assembly fix sounds like thats what Mits charges them for the service to rebuild the chassis and that is what Mits reimburses them.

#2
in your previous post you said they initially checked the lamp and it was ok.
So it's strange that they then diagnosis it and claim it needs an electrical chassis rebuild AND a lamp assembly "fix".

No Mits will not pay for a lamp and if there was miscommunication then you would need to work that out between Mits the service center and yourself.

A lamp comes in the square plastic cartridge housing and cost ~$229 from Mits to a retail customer. It sounds like the shop simply replaced your lamp and charged you $250 total for doing it. The answer from their rep seems to confirm that was what they did, just replace the lamp "assembly"= lamp and plastic cartridge housing.

#3
The $300 in labor is the cost they are charging you to remove/ship/replace the electrical chassis from your tv and get the set working once it's returned.

My mits shop charged me a 4 hour "book rate" for the labor to do the work on my 62525. 4 x $62.50/hr = $250 for my shop to remove/ship/replace the chassis. this was after charging $62.50 for the diagnosis. So it seem like they are charging you the 4 hour "book rate' at $75/hr. Do you know if that is their labor rate?

lciallo is a good service tech that post here on avs. he's stated that $300 is what he charges when he works on these mits wd52/62x25 models with the chassis problems. Thats for him to come to your home, diagnosis then take the chassis out and then return and replace it once it's back from the mits rebuild.

$300 is the dealer cost for the chassis rebuild. I can recall only a couple of cases where Mitsubishi did not cover that cost for our clients, however. They usually do not pay for lamps or other problems, nor for labor.

The lamp can be replaced with the same Osram lamp which is available from companies like Acme for around $100, with a 1 year warranty. I rarely buy them from Mitsubishi unless the housing is bad (sometimes the plastic gets brittle or the client has buggered it up). Mits is more $$ and only 90 days on warranty. Not that it matters that much, as these lamps have been very reliable.

I do charge $300 for people that did not purchase the set from the dealership that I do work for. We give people who did a 20% discount on labor which makes it $240. That is figured on two service calls (local calls at $75 each) plus one hour labor each way for pulling and installing the chassis. Someone with less experience with these could easily take twice as long. I know I did the first couple of times.

FWIW, some shops have reported problems with the rebuild chassis. We have done a couple of dozen, and had two go bad, IIRC.

I expect that Mitsubishi will stop paying for the chassis repairs on these as they get older. Many of the sets are well over 4 years old.

thanks for the info turbo and lcaillo, i appreciate it. my friend's dad in SanFran just got BGLOD'ed and his labor rate was 300 also, so that seems to be normal. i just had no idea what they were doing behind the scenes.

as for cable, i dont know what i'll do for now. i might not even bother, since i have a HD dvr in my bedroom setup and i really only use my mits for watching dvds and xbox. i will miss my cablecard, tho, because it was so simple and didn't require another gd remote control laying around. :(

I noticed a while ago that I didn't have any sound on my Video 1 when I would switch between inputs. I've been fixing it by hitting the reset button on the front of the TV (or at least I thought). As most of you know, when you hit this button, the green light will blink for a while and then go off. Well I traced back my problem to my Harmony and not the TV. But what I noticed during several of the resets was that the green blinking light wouldn't go away. I have to hit the reset button again for it to reset properly. Is this the beginnings of the Mitsubishi BGLOD issue?

I have the wd-52825 and I am experiencing the purple lines problem. Has anyone figured out how to fix this issue?

thanks for the info turbo and lcaillo, i appreciate it. my friend's dad in SanFran just got BGLOD'ed and his labor rate was 300 also, so that seems to be normal. i just had no idea what they were doing behind the scenes.

as for cable, i dont know what i'll do for now. i might not even bother, since i have a HD dvr in my bedroom setup and i really only use my mits for watching dvds and xbox. i will miss my cablecard, tho, because it was so simple and didn't require another gd remote control laying around. :(

If you have the latest firmware and your cable company has a recent cablecard you should be all set. The problem is in the firmware between the two devices. You may have an updated firmware and the cable company is trying to give you an old card. I see this all of the time with chassis that come back from rebuild with a newer firmware than the card will work with. Good luck

I noticed a while ago that I didn't have any sound on my Video 1 when I would switch between inputs. I've been fixing it by hitting the reset button on the front of the TV (or at least I thought). As most of you know, when you hit this button, the green light will blink for a while and then go off. Well I traced back my problem to my Harmony and not the TV. But what I noticed during several of the resets was that the green blinking light wouldn't go away. I have to hit the reset button again for it to reset properly. Is this the beginnings of the Mitsubishi BGLOD issue?

Without a doubt.

I have the wd-52825 and I am experiencing the purple lines problem. Has anyone figured out how to fix this issue?

have your electrical chassis rebuilt. ~$200-300. Then Mitsubishi will give you a one year warranty for a replacement if it breaks down again.

I see this all of the time with chassis that come back from rebuild with a newer firmware than the card will work with. Good luck

Thanks JJ. How do we tell if a CC is current or compatible? The TW tech who came out tried 2 cards and neither worked. Do the cable co's use old cards regularly? I figured they would be relatively recent cards for an install.

Well I gave into Mits for them picking up the cost of a new chassis. I have to pick up the labor. I guess that's better than nothing, though, I was hoping they would do like they have for a couple others and just offer up a replacement TV. Either way, my TV will be working again and if it fails again, a replacement had better be offered then!

Thanks JJ. How do we tell if a CC is current or compatible? The TW tech who came out tried 2 cards and neither worked. Do the cable co's use old cards regularly? I figured they would be relatively recent cards for an install. Im curious, what firmware did you get when the chassis came back and did you try the same card? I want to try the firmware ver you have on a chassis I have with a cable card. Forgive me for this but the whole thing may not be worth the effort but in case you want to try.......
I think this is and has been for consumers and cable techs, a guessing game. If you can get in touch with the tech that is going to bring the card and be sure he brings a new one as in never installed and not sitting in his truck as stock. I have seen it take 4-5 before one actuly works. The only other thing I would think of is to contact the card Mfg, Motorola or Scientific Atlanta, and reach someone knowledgable to find out what to ask for in getting an up to date card. Maybe even a call to Mits. The problem is the cable companys are not buying new cards because tv mfg and CATV companys are no longer required to be the "host" for the removable security (cablecard). So the answer is most likely yes, they are old cards being recycled. The CC can be updated but that requires shipping it back to the MFG. The problem the techs used to run into was the firmware in the set was too old for the new card so they would keep a bunch to try before one worked.

We has some lightning in the north Dallas area tonight and my 62525 lost power twice. The first time tonight, I got the BGLOD but it recovered. No such luck the second time around. After messing with it for a half hour, I left it unplugged for two hours. Now I get no response from the set at all when plugged in. In addition, prior to tonight's fun, I've been noticing what looked like rolling interference patterns on my HD channels for a month now. From what I've read on the net, it sound like my chasis rebuilt which hopefully I can Mits to pay for. At this point I would rather pay ~$300 to fix it than pay the money to replace it. I have a couple questions for those familiar with getting this done.

1) To start the process, do I have to contact Mits Support first or can I just call a local Mits service rep?

2) Does anyone have a Mits Service Rep in the North Dallas Area (Plano/Richardson/Garland) that they would recommend?

Wendell

We has some lightning in the north Dallas area tonight and my 62525 lost power twice. The first time tonight, I got the BGLOD but it recovered. No such luck the second time around. After messing with it for a half hour, I left it unplugged for two hours. Now I get no response from the set at all when plugged in. In addition, prior to tonight's fun, I've been noticing what looked like rolling interference patterns on my HD channels for a month now. From what I've read on the net, it sound like my chasis rebuilt which hopefully I can Mits to pay for. At this point I would rather pay ~$300 to fix it than pay the money to replace it. I have a couple questions for those familiar with getting this done.

1) To start the process, do I have to contact Mits Support first or can I just call a local Mits service rep?

2) Does anyone have a Mits Service Rep in the North Dallas Area (Plano/Richardson/Garland) that they would recommend?

Wendell

I called Mitsubishi's consumer relations (# on website). They'll give you the # to an authorized dealer to come take a look at it and then once you get the info from them, you'll fax it to Mits and they'll give you an offer. Usually it's to cover the parts and you cover the labor.

I have a Mits WD62725 with two bulbs, a stand and two remotes.
I've replaced the “usual suspect” capacitors on the DM, FMT and PWB boards.
Installed the Rondoid BGLOD switch hack, now it boots but the red Lamp indicator just blinks. Tried a new blulb...no luck. Possible light engine or something else?
I'm sick of it!
Instead of puttn' this on the curb maybe someone can salvage parts.
I've been thinking of trading it in on a yella' dog and then puttin' that dog out of its misery!
I'm in the Lakewood, Colorado and will deliver locally to the Denver metro area.
Going once...

JJB, my firmware is V26 004.06

they're coming out tomorrow to install a standard box. i will try to get in touch w/the tech, but don't know if it's possible yet.

the original CC was probably lost during the factory rebuild. i should've removed it before they took the tv, but i forgot to do so. i was hoping they'd tape the card to chasis or something when they rebuilt it, but no - looks like it's lost for good.

Going twice...

I have a Mits WD62725 with two bulbs, a stand and two remotes.
I've replaced the “usual suspect” capacitors on the DM, FMT and PWB boards.
Installed the Rondoid BGLOD switch hack, now it boots but the red Lamp indicator just blinks. Tried a new blulb...no luck. Possible light engine or something else?
I'm sick of it!
Instead of puttn' this on the curb maybe someone can salvage parts.
I've been thinking of trading it in on a yella' dog and then puttin' that dog out of its misery!
I'm in the Lakewood, Colorado and will deliver locally to the Denver metro area.
Going once...

replacing the "usual suspect" capacitors can be a quick cheap fix or not a fix at all as you have seen. with the cheap caps that Mits used there are many many (10/20+ or more who knows??) other caps that are in various states of degradation/failure. Mits replaces over 100+ parts on the various boards when they do a rebuild so that shows just how bad the problematic electrical chassis can be

so almost a guarantee it needs a complete chassis rebuild which Mits will cover if you pay the labor for the local mits authorized service center. usually $200-300 to you and then you get it back fixed with a one year warranty from Mits if it fails again in that time frame.

shelling out that $2-300 might be a better option that dumping it, you will get it back working and a 1 yr warranty so it's not a bad gamble, your money your choice.

hey don't take it out on the dog......

hey don't take it out on the dog......

How 'bout a couple rounds from a fiddy cal?

When this TV is plugged in it adds about $25 a month to my power bill.

I have a WD52525 with many problems. Does anyone know about a guy in Carrollton, TX that repairs these sets? He has an ad on the local Craigs List claiming he can completely fix the set for $250 - $300. Since my set is out of warranty should I try to get it repaired through RAC (authorized) or go a cheaper route? I would appreciate the forum's input. Thanks

I have a 4 year old 52525 which has been fairly trouble-free. I only just replaced the lamp, although the old one was still good. The only problem I'm having is on the VGA input - I see sparkles on the details of the picture. This started occurring about a year ago, but has recently gotten worse. Also, the entire picture seems to be somewhat wavey now. I only see this on the VGA input - the HDMI and component inputs are fine.

What would be the first thing to try. I don't have a problem with pulling any of the boards or replacing some capacitors, but would like to try to keep it at simple as possible (is there a step-by-step procedure for this?).

Also, I have another dead 52525 a friend gave me that I could use for spare parts. I'm not sure how it died, but she was told it's not worth fixing. Would it be worthwhile to try swapping boards, or would that be a futile exercise?

Thanks!

I have a WD52525 with many problems. Does anyone know about a guy in Carrollton, TX that repairs these sets? He has an ad on the local Craigs List claiming he can completely fix the set for $250 - $300. Since my set is out of warranty should I try to get it repaired through RAC (authorized) or go a cheaper route? I would appreciate the forum's input. Thanks

I'd see if anyone else in DFW has done the RAC route, and learn from their experience. RAC is the way to go due to the warranty, especially if the cost may be about the same. Heck, if it ends up breaking again, you may get a replacement.

Well. After all of my efforts, my set died again (GBLOD) about a month ago. I knew the issue was the remaining SMD caps that we didn't replace because with enough resets it would usually come back but I really didn't feel like going back in there and replacing another 75-100 caps.

I called up Mits to explain my situation. They made me go through the song and dance of having a certified repair shop come out and give an estimate. The shop agreed with me that the best course of action was a complete rebuild.

Mits offered to cover the parts (as heard many times on here) as long as I covered labor (285.00). It was well worth it to me to pay ~300 than spend the time doing the work myself so off it went.

I just got it back yesterday and after making a few adjustments in the service menu and it now looks as good as new. (tilt is off a little but I don't feel like opening up the set to move the LE)

If anyone is in the SE Michigan area looking for a great shop (super fast and professional), send me a PM.

And I must say, "hats off to Mits" for taking care of a product so far out of warranty. I've said my share of negative things about Mits but it was nice to see them take care of this (and with only a few day turn around to boot!)

Bad news: I almost had my wife talked in to the new Panny V10 65" !!! I'm happy to save the money though.

Good luck everyone.

Thought I'd update all of you on my particular WD-62525 drama.

I purchased my Mits back in September 2004 along with an extended warranty from Best Buy. Loved it straight out of the box!

And three years later....you guessed it...bad capacitors on the power board resulted in an entire electrical chassis replacement while it was still under the extended warranty.

Fast forward two years later....nearly to the day (28 Aug 2009)....same issue happens again, but this time, my extended warranty had already expired.

So, as many recommended in this thread, I called Mits Customer Relations. They explained everything I needed to send them -- my purchase receipt, service history (getting the service history from Best Buy was a challenge!), and of course, the diagnosis & estimate from an authorized Mits service center.

Well, got all of that together, faxed it to Mits..... and today I should receive confirmation that they will give me a replacement of a new 2009 model WD 65737 (Best Buy WD-65C9) with only a $350 (est) service fee. This is only pending their contacting Best Buy to ensure they have one in stock, and agree to the fees involved. I think they made this offer to me only because this wasn't the first time my electrical chassis crapped out.

Some words of advice for those still with XXX25's: Keep all your receipts (to include service visits and repairs) and don't forget to extend your extended warranty before it expires (like I did) ....or you'll be at the mercy of Mits. Fortunately for me, it worked out....thanks, Mits.

Here's hoping I don't have to pay an additional fee to Best Buy for them to cart my WD 62525 to the scrap pile... :p

If you do they are ripping you off. Mitsubishi usually pays to field scrap the old unit.

If you do they are ripping you off. Mitsubishi usually pays to field scrap the old unit.

Noted. Thanks for the heads up!

Just got off of the phone with Mits, they will be sending me a new WD-65737. They're sending me a letter which I will sign and return to Mits with a money order for $350. Once received, they'll notify my authorized Mits service center to come and pick up the old HDTV, and schedule the delivery of the 65737. :D

Now the only question is....I wonder how I can purchase an extended warranty/service contract for the new TV...since third party warranties/service contracts are based on purchase price. Thoughts?

Hey guys, i recently just bought the wd 52725 off a friend. there was picture at the time but now all i get is sound. i took the lamp out and had my dad check it to find out there was a loose wire. we tightend the wire on the lamp, put it back in, and everything was working for. so i shut it off to go to bed, woke up the next morning to watch tv, and there was only sound. before i was able to notice the lamp light through a screw hole in the front but now there is nothing. Does anyonw know what is going on???

The light in front stays green, play sound, but no picture. getting frustrated.

Actually, as i said that the lamp light just switched on to a solid red. we tested the lamp and its not blown or discolored, and its reading ohms to the lamp.. Any suggestions???

Actually, as i said that the lamp light just switched on to a solid red. we tested the lamp and its not blown or discolored, and its reading ohms to the lamp.. Any suggestions???

"ohms to the lamp" is meaning less. You could also have a bad lamp that looks fine, or you may not know what to look for. Most likely a bad lamp. You could also have a bad ballast or bad caps in the PS. The first thing to do is pull the diagnostic code and check the service literature to see what it means.

Ahh, well, I'm right behind you. Had one of the first complete chassis repairs by Mitsu, still under extended warranty Feb of 2008. Only took them 7 months to get it done. Set has been back for ALMOST 1 year, and it went out again the other night. I'll be contacting Mitsu, but I do not have high hopes. Not sure I want another mitsu in any event.


Thought I'd update all of you on my particular WD-62525 drama.

I purchased my Mits back in September 2004 along with an extended warranty from Best Buy. Loved it straight out of the box!

And three years later....you guessed it...bad capacitors on the power board resulted in an entire electrical chassis replacement while it was still under the extended warranty.

Fast forward two years later....nearly to the day (28 Aug 2009)....same issue happens again, but this time, my extended warranty had already expired.

So, as many recommended in this thread, I called Mits Customer Relations. They explained everything I needed to send them -- my purchase receipt, service history (getting the service history from Best Buy was a challenge!), and of course, the diagnosis & estimate from an authorized Mits service center.

Well, got all of that together, faxed it to Mits..... and today I should receive confirmation that they will give me a replacement of a new 2009 model WD 65737 (Best Buy WD-65C9) with only a $350 (est) service fee. This is only pending their contacting Best Buy to ensure they have one in stock, and agree to the fees involved. I think they made this offer to me only because this wasn't the first time my electrical chassis crapped out.

Some words of advice for those still with XXX25's: Keep all your receipts (to include service visits and repairs) and don't forget to extend your extended warranty before it expires (like I did) ....or you'll be at the mercy of Mits. Fortunately for me, it worked out....thanks, Mits.

Here's hoping I don't have to pay an additional fee to Best Buy for them to cart my WD 62525 to the scrap pile... :p

Do you pull the code by pushing the menu and format button at the same time, and see how many times it blinks??

Is it also true that you have to have 2 annual internal cleanings?

Is it also true that you have to have 2 annual internal cleanings?

If you are a smoker, cook lots of oily foods, and have a wood burning stove hearby maybe. Otherwise once ever year or two should be adequate if you are in a pretty clean environment.

Im in AZ so its always pretty dusty. What should I be looking for on the lamp that would indicate that it is bad? Where are the caps located that you mentioned earlier?

Just change the lamp. It is the first step in troubleshooting at this point because it is by far the most likely problem. Check also to be sure that you did not push the connector out of its mount. There is no reliable way to look at a lamp and be sure that it is good or bad. With some experience maybe, but for most people not likely. If your set needs caps, it will likely go far beyond the power supply and a reliable repair will likely involve hundreds of capacitors in these models.

The diagnostic code is retrieved by pressing MENU and INPUT simultaneously for 5 seconds.

Ok cool. I will start by replacing the lamp. If further problems, I will just write here again. Where is the best place to get a lamp?

ACME enterprises of Orlando has some of the best prices and a 1 year warranty on the original Osram lamps that were used in your set.

Thanks for the help man.

I have a Mits WD62725 with two bulbs, a stand and two remotes.
I've replaced the “usual suspect” capacitors on the DM, FMT and PWB boards.
Installed the Rondoid BGLOD switch hack, now it boots but the red Lamp indicator just blinks. Tried a new blulb...no luck. Possible light engine or something else?
I'm sick of it!
Instead of puttn' this on the curb maybe someone can salvage parts.
I've been thinking of trading it in on a yella' dog and then puttin' that dog out of its misery!
I'm in the Lakewood, Colorado and will deliver locally to the Denver metro area.
Going once...

I'm down in the Springs, I'd come and pick it up. Still available??

Hey guys, i recently just bought the wd 52725 off a friend.

Must be not much of a friend if he sold you that set! :D

Going twice...

You are to far for me to pick it up but I would like to have the spare parts. Im in Connecticut. Oh well. I guess I have enough already