I just got a blue screen with a splotch of flashing light yellow in the middle. I have gotten the flashing green light a few times and have done a reset, hard and soft. Nothing makes it come back now.
I haven't seen this thing happen before so I thought I'd post.
The TV also says that there is no signal coming from the antenna and when I switch to satellite, same thing.
Anybody have this happen to you? I would like to have this thing last until spring, if I could.
Any responses would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks:

Lyle

I just got Mits to graciously approve my parts on a chassis rebuild - of course got stuck with the labor..

They originally only offered a 9 month warranty! I got them to extend it to a year.

I am perplexed because I explained to them that I have bought numerous Mits TV's in the past and purchased my WD 62725 on their special finance deal (2 or 3 years no interest....)

I have a WD 52525 that has had a replaced LE and thermistor and now it appears it needs a chassis rebuild as well (won't turn on at all). Problem is that one was given to me for free and I don't have the original purchase receipt... My local repair guy did the original work...

And I sold a bunch of TVs for them when I worked at a mom and pop retail store...

And I have about 10k in newer TVs that I purchased in Dec 2007 that I still have on the 0% no interest financing....

Wow - those who got the replacement TV offer must have mad negotiation skills.

The sad part is I am the Internet Sales Director for a chain of 7 Dealerships!!

I just got a blue screen with a splotch of flashing light yellow in the middle. I have gotten the flashing green light a few times and have done a reset, hard and soft. Nothing makes it come back now.
I haven't seen this thing happen before so I thought I'd post.
The TV also says that there is no signal coming from the antenna and when I switch to satellite, same thing.
Anybody have this happen to you? I would like to have this thing last until spring, if I could.
Any responses would be greatly appreciated.

with the many varied capacitor problems it causes many different issues.

If you want to get it repaired then do as many of us have had to do and get it diagnosed by an authorized mits service center/tech as needing an electrical chassis replacement and then contact mits so they pay for the parts and you pay for the labor which is ~$200-300. Then get your set back repaired and mits also gives you a one year warranty.

1-800-332-2119 ext 8 gets you to the Mits California headquarters, they have deal with this problem alot with the WD 52/62x25 sets.

with the many varied capacitor problems it causes many different issues.

If you want to get it repaired then do as many of us have had to do and get it diagnosed by an authorized mits service center/tech as needing an electrical chassis replacement and then contact mits so they pay for the parts and you pay for the labor which is ~$200-300. Then get your set back repaired and mits also gives you a one year warranty.

1-800-332-2119 ext 8 gets you to the Mits California headquarters, they have deal with this problem alot with the WD 52/62x25 sets.

I called Mits and they gave me a service # to call. Have an appointment on the 15th of October. They have been very busy, to say the least. The tech has to come from Eau Claire, (about 1 hr drive), so have to pay mileage. If they have to have Mits send parts to fix the set, how do I negotiate Mitsubishi to pay for them?
I do have another number the csr gave me, which is a little closer. I am going to call them today after work.
I really am anxious to find out what this blue screen with the flashing light blue/yellow in the middle is.

I'm a newbie here who has been very happy with my 5 year old Mits 52725 until last week when Thin Vertical Lines evenly spaced across the screen showed up. They are very bright and impossible to ignore. They show up after about 10 minutes. They are there on any source, even on top of the TV Menu, and even for 5 seconds on a blank screen after I power off. They are always in the same places, about one inch apart. I reset it (I think), and also unplugged it, both to no avail.

This thread is so long, and I haven't found an answer yet in my browsing. But all the problems in this thread make me wonder if I shouldn't just chuck it and get something new.

Attached is a picture of it.

Please, please advise me on what it might be, if I should repair it, how I should go about it, if I can do any of it myself, where I should get the parts, or anything else. I'm desperate and would really appreciate any help.

Called today 2nd number from Mits csr. Will look at in when I bring it in. Has to go to MInneapolis, but they were more than happy to do the paper work that has to go to Mitsubishi. All I had to do was get a case number from Mits and fax the purchase order to them. They are very aware of the problems and have done this repair many times. Taking it to the facility tomorrow. Only 1 hr drive for me and I don't have to wait till the 15th, yay!
They also said that Mits usually pays for the parts after warrantee for this job. Oh! my 5 year warrantee ran out 9/24/09---------What luck They seem to know when to fry themselves, don't ya think?

To the previous poster. Welcome to the family!

Called today 2nd number from Mits csr. Will look at in when I bring it in. Has to go to MInneapolis, but they were more than happy to do the paper work that has to go to Mitsubishi. All I had to do was get a case number from Mits and fax the purchase order to them. They are very aware of the problems and have done this repair many times. Taking it to the facility tomorrow. Only 1 hr drive for me and I don't have to wait till the 15th, yay!
They also said that Mits usually pays for the parts after warrantee for this job. Oh! my 5 year warrantee ran out 9/24/09---------What luck They seem to know when to fry themselves, don't ya think?

To the previous poster. Welcome to the family!

the normal routine is that you get the local mits service center to diagnose it as needing an electrical chassis. Then you fax the paperwork to mits and they look it over and then contact you back in a day or less telling you they will pay for the rebuilt chassis and you pay the labor. Then when thats cleared up mits contacts the service center that you used and authorizes the repair.

The service center sends your chassis off to get rebuilt by the national mits service/repair center in Ga. and waits for it to be returned. Installs it in your set and returns it to you fixed. Then mits will send you a letter stating they will cover it for the one year warranty. Or if the service center was doing in home repair they should take out the chassis and return when they have it back rebuilt and reinstall it, and you would need to get all the labor + travel cost worked out with them.

my local mits service center charged me 4 service "book" hours, 4 x $62.50/Hr= $250 + tax to do the chassis pull/replacement plus the $128 to pick it up/diagnose it/return it to me. The service manager did knock off $$33 of that $128 charge due to long delays in getting my set fixed.

What would the normal time frame be? I have some important business in March 2010 and would like to have this done by then, if possible.
Thanks for the information. I think I'm saving a little money bringing the set in myself. It's a drive, but we like to do "escapes to Minnesota" now and then. Very pretty state.
It sure is different having a 19" flat panel in place where the 52" was.
Later:

Lyle

Hi Everyone - I just recently posted this in another thread but wanted to see if there was anyone else out here that coud help.

Well we DID get the tv to finally turn on and it was working great last night (we have the WD-52525), this is while the "guts" were still hanging out the back. We kept the tv plugged in while we put everything back in place and screwed on. Once that was complete we began watching tv and everything started to turn green. We could still see the picture but it had a really green tint to it. We tried adjusting the color settings but nothing worked - is this another capacitor issue? I'm really hoping we can fix it ourselves as we cannot spend another $200.00+ to repair this tv. Any input would be appreciated. Thank you!

From your other posts, you certainly do show symptoms of the dreaded SMT cap problems. If you are prepared to invest about $60 in caps, and try to replace them yourself, it's worth a shot. But it will cost you over $200 to have someone else do it. There are many tips in this thread that should help. Good luck.

From your other posts, you certainly do show symptoms of the dreaded SMT cap problems. If you are prepared to invest about $60 in caps, and try to replace them yourself, it's worth a shot. But it will cost you over $200 to have someone else do it. There are many tips in this thread that should help. Good luck.

Which ones are the SMT Caps?

IronHorse, thanks for the write up, made it so I could clean the first mirror during half-time and actually made the game worth watching. Great TV for free!

Can someone please tell me what the SMT caps are? We are trying to solve the problem of the green tint/glow that are screen has now taken to. Has anyone else had this problem after replacing caps? We've replaced about 10 or so caps so far.

Please help! Thanks :)

Can someone please tell me what the SMT caps are? We are trying to solve the problem of the green tint/glow that are screen has now taken to. Has anyone else had this problem after replacing caps? We've replaced about 10 or so caps so far.

Please help! Thanks :)

My understanding is that SMT caps are surface mount capacitors. They are different than the "can" type of capacitors with the leads that go through holes in the circuit board. They have solder pads that attach to pads on the circuit board, and are more difficult to solder (it is easy to rip the trace off the circuit board - especially when trying to remove the old cap).

My understanding is that SMT caps are surface mount capacitors. They are different than the "can" type of capacitors with the leads that go through holes in the circuit board. They have solder pads that attach to pads on the circuit board, and are more difficult to solder (it is easy to rip the trace off the circuit board - especially when trying to remove the old cap).

Do you happen to have a picture of them or somewhere I could look them up? Which board on they on?

Search this thread for posts by Tbully. He has a powerpoint presentation containing everything you need to know.

SO I bought the new lamp and the tv works fine now, It kinda had a fuzzy picture, and i can see that the mirror is kinda dirty. How do I clean the mirror, and how do i change the tv setting from 480i to a higher setting. I just have it plugged into the wall, with no hd converter. Or should i Just call cox and get the box with hd, and the tech will set everything up?

Just got my authorization from Mitsubishi that they will pay for the repair of the chassis for my 52725. Brought it to Minneapolis last Thursday.
It was easy to do.
The Mits CSR, ( from the Phillipines, to boot ) said that they were going to deal with this repair like it was still under warrantee. I bought it in 2004 and the 5 year deal was up on 22 September. Went out shortly after that.
So, if anybody needs service, Mits is really handing out a fairly good deal. Only they will pay for parts only, no service. I tried, they said that the repair had already gone through "arbritration" and that is all they will pay for.
Good Luck to all:

Lyle

Hello,

From a picture quality perspective (brightness, colors, contrast, black level), what are the main differences between the WD-62525 (that I have from 2004) to the newer diamond mitsubishi dlp sets?

I am thinking about buying. I currently need a cleaning of the inside of my 62525, but found out tonight it is not covered under my warranty. Don't want to do this myself and mess it up, so I'm thinking about buying a new one. Do the new sets get as dusty inside as the old one?

Thanks,
Jason

Hello,

From a picture quality perspective (brightness, colors, contrast, black level), what are the main differences between the WD-62525 (that I have from 2004) to the newer diamond mitsubishi dlp sets?

I am thinking about buying. I currently need a cleaning of the inside of my 62525, but found out tonight it is not covered under my warranty. Don't want to do this myself and mess it up, so I'm thinking about buying a new one. Do the new sets get as dusty inside as the old one?

Thanks,
Jason

The difference in picture is night and day between the old and new sets. The black levels are greatly improved (almost on par with plasma). The colors are more accurate when calibrated as well.

The newer models do not have as much of an issue with dust due to the fact that Mits changed the mirror layout after this model year. The problem with this model building up so much dust is the double mirror design. Since the small mirror lays on its back to reflect up to the larger mirror, it collects dust because dust settles on it so easily.

However, it is not too difficult to clean the mirror. You just have to take out all of the screws holding the screen in place, unplug the front panel control connector and lift the screen off. I've cleaned mine many times. Once you get the hang of it, it's pretty easy. The only place there are "hidden" screws is on the front behind the speaker cover. You have to remove the piece of the cabinet directly below the front buttons on the TV. Behind that are two screws that hold the screen in place that aren't visible unless you remove that cover. Also, the connector that connects the front buttons to the unit itself is behind that as well.

If you google, there are places that'll give you detailed instructions along with pictures. You can also find the service manual online which also details the procedure.

Thank you so much for such an informative answer. Besides black levels being better and the colors, too, is the brightness better? It probably is since it doesn't get as dirty as my current set.



The difference in picture is night and day between the old and new sets. The black levels are greatly improved (almost on par with plasma). The colors are more accurate when calibrated as well.

The newer models do not have as much of an issue with dust due to the fact that Mits changed the mirror layout after this model year. The problem with this model building up so much dust is the double mirror design. Since the small mirror lays on its back to reflect up to the larger mirror, it collects dust because dust settles on it so easily.

However, it is not too difficult to clean the mirror. You just have to take out all of the screws holding the screen in place, unplug the front panel control connector and lift the screen off. I've cleaned mine many times. Once you get the hang of it, it's pretty easy. The only place there are "hidden" screws is on the front behind the speaker cover. You have to remove the piece of the cabinet directly below the front buttons on the TV. Behind that are two screws that hold the screen in place that aren't visible unless you remove that cover. Also, the connector that connects the front buttons to the unit itself is behind that as well.

If you google, there are places that'll give you detailed instructions along with pictures. You can also find the service manual online which also details the procedure.

...

If you google, there are places that'll give you detailed instructions along with pictures. You can also find the service manual online which also details the procedure.

There are detailed instructions right in this thread, just do a search here. I got the instructions from someone that posted on this thread and they were great. I've cleaned the mirrors twice now and the second time, I did it myself. I have the 62525 so it's small enough to do yourself. You may need help if you have a larger screen.

I have the 62525 so it's small enough to do yourself. You may need help if you have a larger screen.

Did you mean that you have the 52525? The 62525 is the bigger screen version (62") vs. the 52"...

Did you mean that you have the 52525? The 62525 is the bigger screen version (62") vs. the 52"...

No, I have the 62 inch screen as opposed to a 72 inch screen but it is small enough for me to remove myself.

No, I have the 62 inch screen as opposed to a 72 inch screen but it is small enough for me to remove myself.

Gotcha...I thought the 72" models were outside of this model series.

I have removed my 62" myself a few times myself. Just make sure that you don't set the screen on edge on the bottom.

And remember to set it on its side, leaning up against a wall so the bottom bezel around the button doesn't get damaged!

Search this thread for posts by Tbully. He has a powerpoint presentation containing everything you need to know.

I've tried to search Tbully for the powerpoint but came up empty handed. Many hours spent on this thread!! Its sooooo long....

The good news is, we have gotten the Tv to work. We pulled it apart again to make sure all connections were good, replaced a few more caps, and saw we had one in backwards. Not sure if that was the fix or it was just being tempermental. Anyways, was able to watch it for the past couple days and we're hoping it stays that way. The color is great, the screen is so big compared to our dinky 32" we had before.

Thanks for the help! I'll be back if it happens again :)

Alright cool, Thanks guys. :)

SO I bought the new lamp and the tv works fine now, It kinda had a fuzzy picture, and i can see that the mirror is kinda dirty. How do I clean the mirror, and how do i change the tv setting from 480i to a higher setting. I just have it plugged into the wall, with no hd converter. Or should i Just call cox and get the box with hd, and the tech will set everything up?

Check page 95 out. Spiff72 did a nice write up with some post of pics on the dirty mirror and how to clean it.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=444566&page=95

And on page 141 Ironhorse also had some pics and how to clean the internal mirror that can get so filthy.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=444566&page=141

If you want to see why everyone needs to check and clean their WD 52/62x25 mirrors regularly then check out a dirty one on page 148 post 4440 that i posted.....
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=444566&page=148

to change the aspect ratio/video mode look for the Format button it should be up about 3 rows from the bottom of the remote.

I've tried to search Tbully for the powerpoint but came up empty handed. Many hours spent on this thread!! Its sooooo long....

The good news is, we have gotten the Tv to work. We pulled it apart again to make sure all connections were good, replaced a few more caps, and saw we had one in backwards. Not sure if that was the fix or it was just being tempermental. Anyways, was able to watch it for the past couple days and we're hoping it stays that way. The color is great, the screen is so big compared to our dinky 32" we had before.

Thanks for the help! I'll be back if it happens again :)
Tbully's write up post and link is on page 198 post # 5936

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15064509&highlight=#post15064509


NOTE:.......Tbully just posted one page back in post 6730 that his set went down again and even he didn't feel like going in and doing another 75-100 caps replacement job. he let a local shop send his electrical chassis in for a complete rebuild through mits. His labor charge from the shop was $285. he said they did good work and had a pretty quick turnaround on it.

Well I got my rebuilt chassis put in today. So far so good. Guess we'll see how long it lasts.

It would be interesting, like you said, to see how long these rebuilds do last. Mine should be coming back from the shop soon.
Will give ya a shout out when it gets back home.
I haven't read where anybody is having trouble yet from the rebuilds.
If you have had trouble, how long from when you got the chassis back?
Let's keep this going.

my mitsubishi 62525 has been developing scrolling horizontal lines/scwiggly lines. im almost thinking i might be better off replacing a ton of caps, get it working again, and then sell it on craigslist and buy a 50 something inch lcd. im tired of the problems with this dang tv. already fixed it once with the bglod problem

Anyone want a WD 62825 that hast he BGLOD or know anyone in the southern MI/nothern IN area that can perform the possible fixes???

NOTE:.......Tbully just posted one page back in post 6730 that his set went down again and even he didn't feel like going in and doing another 75-100 caps replacement job. he let a local shop send his electrical chassis in for a complete rebuild through mits. His labor charge from the shop was $285. he said they did good work and had a pretty quick turnaround on it.

We replaced our 52725 with a Samsung lcd last spring and put the Mitsu downstairs in the family room. About a week before the extended warranty expired I went downstairs and saw the blink power light. To mae things short, the local repair shop here in the Rochester NY area picked it up. They called about a week ago and said they were shipping it to NJ to have the caps replaced. We'll see what happens when it gets back.

Long, long, story short ...

Started getting BGLOD on a WD62725 about four months ago and was able to reset satisfactorily altho it became increasingly difficult to do so. After the fifth time, I went through the lengthy procedure for warranty repair. I've had the set 4 years and 5 months and had purchased a four year extended warranty from Magnolia.
Technician opened it up, replaced 4 electrolytic caps, closed and could not get set to function. (BGLOD) It was working when he arrived.
"What now?" I asked
"You get a new set!" was his answer.
Two days later I contacted Best Buy to inquire about the details. At this time, it's my understanding that I'm to get a brand new, unopened WD62725. That's what I'm told by phone with "the Geek Squad/Best Buy" representative.
I'm a little hesitant because I had to return the first set for the football sized white spot problem. I assume I will have to return my present set but since the tech. left I've been able to reset it and it's functioning as well as before this began. I'm aware that this set is on its death bed but the picture is, at present, superb.
What do you think? If Best Buy will give me XXX credit towards a 2009 set, I'd probably jump at that. Where do you think this WD62725 model, that's been out of production for several years came from? What condition could those capacitors be in if they have been sitting in a warehouse drying out for those years waiting for the first power up? I have an electronics back ground and I can tell you that no good will come from those conditions!
That's were I'm at. I do appreciate the support I am getting, I just wondered if any one else has been in this situation and if they found any other (better) options?

most likely the BB/geek squad employee was misinformed about you getting a new 62725. probably he just meant a new replacement for it like the newer model Mits dlps, the 60737 or 65737.

i would call back and ask them if you can have the credit toward another type display since you have had the troubles with the dlp. a lot of bb stores do not even carry the mits dlp in store any more so that shouldn't be a problem.

I am looking for these sets to repair for myself or people who need help and do not want to pay a crazy repair bill. Please consider offering it to me before you dump it or take it in for repairs. I have had tons of luck repairing these sets and really enjoy it. I am in Connecticut and can travel for pickup.

I hate to change the subject because I'm not sure where to start a new one. You guys saved my butt (and $600) with the article and pictures of the cleaning of the light engine. Well now I seem to have another problem I haven't found in the forums. My Mits WD-65831 screen now seems to be flashing or flickering light. It's not constant and very intermittent. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I hate to change the subject because I'm not sure where to start a new one. You guys saved my butt (and $600) with the article and pictures of the cleaning of the light engine. Well now I seem to have another problem I haven't found in the forums. My Mits WD-65831 screen now seems to be flashing or flickering light. It's not constant and very intermittent. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Do you have a spare bulb to try. I had this problem on a Sony just before the lamp went dim. A samsung I was working on did it too.

I'm getting ready to order one just in case. It's been doing this for at least 2 months. My wife cringes every time it does it. It drives her crazy (short trip by the way!) Thank you.

I'm getting ready to order one just in case. It's been doing this for at least 2 months. My wife cringes every time it does it. It drives her crazy (short trip by the way!) Thank you.

You're funny, does your wife know about this posting?:D

I'm getting ready to order one just in case. It's been doing this for at least 2 months. My wife cringes every time it does it. It drives her crazy (short trip by the way!) Thank you. Im interested in knowing what you find. I just worked on a WD-62725 and had the same issue with 3 different bulbs. It was 2 3,300 mf @10V caps in the power supply failing right after I installed them.


Has anyone worked on replacing caps in the power supply and lost the lamp question?
"Have you change the lamp press cancel for no and enter for yes"?
Curious if anyone has seen this and did the set last or what was done?

NEED HELP with my 52725...

I had the BGLOD and did the recommended cap replacement on the DM board (6 caps total). The set turns on after I put it back together and turns on and off just fine, however the problem starts after an hour or so of it being plugged in. After which it powers up, I get sound but no picture... Only way to fix it is if I unplug it for a day or two and try again. No error codes and no BGLOD...
Please help!

NEED HELP with my 52725...

I had the BGLOD and did the recommended cap replacement on the DM board (6 caps total). The set turns on after I put it back together and turns on and off just fine, however the problem starts after an hour or so of it being plugged in. After which it powers up, I get sound but no picture... Only way to fix it is if I unplug it for a day or two and try again. No error codes and no BGLOD...
Please help!What value caps did you use? I would check the soldering, plugs and be sure you use the exact replacement or 680 and put all of the screws to hold the boards back in. Also I have seen these chassis act up if they are not burned in for a few days.

I recently had the BGLOD problem on my WD-62525 that's now famous on this thread. I had an extended warranty that was about to expire, so I contacted them, and a tech came and took the chassis out, sent it up to Mits., and I'm sure (or least hope) they replaced all the suspicious caps, if not all of them. The BGLOD problem went away, as expected, and I can turn my set off and on like it was new. What didn't get fixed was the fan on the right side (as seen from the front, but best heard from the back), which is right next to the chassis, doesn't turn off after power down. I waited plenty of time for it to completely turn off. Heck, I waited until the next morning to make sure. So here's my question... should the cap fix take care of this (I'd rather it not be sent back to Mits., but if the caps are the cause, then I have to)? Or is this a separate problem? TIA.

MPython,

These sets have a fan that runs 24/7. And I believe it is the chassis fan as you've noted. Did you just not notice this before, or am I mistaken about which fan runs 24/7?

Said goodbye to my WD 52525 on Friday. Yet another GBLOD victim.

Said goodbye to my WD 52525 on Friday. Yet another GBLOD victim.

So glad I happened to go downstairs about a week before my extended warantee expired. It had been relegated to the dowstairs family room after we get a new Samsung LCD. It got sent back to Mitsu for a chasis rebuild. I also had a spare bulb. Supposed to get it back on Friday.

Good call. Maybe I should read the manual again.

"Portions of the advanced circuitry of this TV must continue to operate even when the TV is turned off. Some of these circuits therefore need to be cooled at all times. A low power standby fan may be heard in a quiet environment. This is normal operation."

Thanks for bringing this to my attention. A friend of mine has a newer Mits. DLP (don't know the model number, but it may be 3 years old), but there is no fan that stays on on his.

MPython,

These sets have a fan that runs 24/7. And I believe it is the chassis fan as you've noted. Did you just not notice this before, or am I mistaken about which fan runs 24/7?

This thread has been a great source of information for me over the life span of my 52725. I realize that most people only post when they have problems. But has ANYONE replaced a bulb without having to replace caps or ballasts or whatever? Has ANYONE been able to just buy a new lamp on eBay and plug it in without problems?

I ask this because my yellow warning light just went red, and when I pulled the light cage out and pushed it back in (what this would solve, I don't know) the set came on for about 1/2 a second then went blank, and the red light came on again. I don't have the training to do any soldering, and I'm wondering if it will even be worth it in the end.

If there is a simple fix, I'll gladly do it to prolong the life of the set. Yes, times are tough, and it would pain me to have to spend the money on a new set, but I'll do that too if I have to (of course I'll do it--who are we kidding?).

Thanks for any help/advice.

At just about 3 years into ownership, I replaced the bulb (didn't buy it, it was covered under my extended warranty). I got it, replaced it, and it immediately started working again. If you are talking about the LAMP light, then my bet is the TV is telling you that it is the bulb that went bad. It follows what the manual says should happen when the bulb is about to fail, then does (the yellow to red thing). I'd say it's worth the risk to buy the bulb. How many hours do you have on that bulb (there's a way to check it on the TV, but I forget the button sequence)? Worst case is you sell it to someone on this forum for 1/2-3/4 of the price you paid for it for a "used" bulb.

This thread has been a great source of information for me over the life span of my 52725. I realize that most people only post when they have problems. But has ANYONE replaced a bulb without having to replace caps or ballasts or whatever? Has ANYONE been able to just buy a new lamp on eBay and plug it in without problems?

I ask this because my yellow warning light just went red, and when I pulled the light cage out and pushed it back in (what this would solve, I don't know) the set came on for about 1/2 a second then went blank, and the red light came on again. I don't have the training to do any soldering, and I'm wondering if it will even be worth it in the end.

If there is a simple fix, I'll gladly do it to prolong the life of the set. Yes, times are tough, and it would pain me to have to spend the money on a new set, but I'll do that too if I have to (of course I'll do it--who are we kidding?).

Thanks for any help/advice.

There is some trouble with a connection at the back of the light unit that has a tendency to become disconnected and fall out towards the back of the thing. The solution is to go in from the rear of the tv with the light cage in place and manually reconnect this to the light unit. There are instructions somewhere in this thread that are helpful as to how to go about repairing this. It might solve some of your problems.
Welcome to the family!
Lyle

I've had the 62525 since August/September of 2004 so it's been a little over 5 years and have replaced the lamp once after about 4 years. I bought it directly from Mitsubishi though so I don't know about ebay or other sites that might sell the lamps.

I recall having the onset of the BGLOD before getting the warnings to switch out the bulb, but it really started to go badly after the install of a new (but third party) bulb. I think its coincidence, the chassis was failing due to the bad capacitors, and time overall, but it could be systemic, as the bulb and light engine does draw most of the power, and may be causing power supply issues which may worsen the issues with the video boards in the chassis.

On a different tact, I'm trying to keep my 52525 going after its chassis rebuild, but it still resets every so often, sometimes shutting down completely to the red code 13. I may need a new bulb, but I may just want to just get a new LED backlit LCD. I've now put the set on a timer, shutting power off the the set for most of the day, and its on standby during the evening hours. I don't know if that will help, but is there any harm in doing that with taking the power away daily?

This thread has been a great source of information for me over the life span of my 52725. I realize that most people only post when they have problems. But has ANYONE replaced a bulb without having to replace caps or ballasts or whatever? Has ANYONE been able to just buy a new lamp on eBay and plug it in without problems?

I ask this because my yellow warning light just went red, and when I pulled the light cage out and pushed it back in (what this would solve, I don't know) the set came on for about 1/2 a second then went blank, and the red light came on again. I don't have the training to do any soldering, and I'm wondering if it will even be worth it in the end.

If there is a simple fix, I'll gladly do it to prolong the life of the set. Yes, times are tough, and it would pain me to have to spend the money on a new set, but I'll do that too if I have to (of course I'll do it--who are we kidding?).

Thanks for any help/advice.If you try what Parlyle suggests and it doesnt work,hopefully you can use this as your trouble shooting guide. unplug set for 1 min. Plug back in. after timer light stops blinking, turn on the set. If the bulb lights and runs dim then red light comes on after 1 min,= bad caps. If the set turns on but dim, then goes out, then back on dim then out and does this 2 or more times, get a bulb.

Well, this afternoon my Mits authorized repair center will be picking up my 62525 to be taken to the big scrap pile in the sky.

It was fun while it lasted (or more accurately, didn't last). Still awaiting delivery of the replacement 65737 Mits. I'll check in this thread time to time just to see how others are doing.... Thanks for all the assistance and information in this thread, it was very VERY useful!

Thanks everyone for the advice.

I've determined that, even though my lamp is going to blow at any time, I don't believe it's the main cause of my problem. What's happening is that when the set is off, the LED is always red. When I turn the set on, it starts up like normal with the red light turning yellow like before. I get a picture for about a half a second and everything shuts off and the light goes red again. My cheat sheet on what the LEDs mean says that red means "Lamp did not turn on." Since I'm getting picture--if even for a second--it tells me the lamp is still usable.

I called the repair shop that's done work on it in the past and was told it seems like a bad ballast. Sounds good to me.

Is this something I can fix myself? And where can I get cheap parts? People on eBay only offer so much. I have to check out "V"!!

Thanks again everyone.

Thanks everyone for the advice.

I've determined that, even though my lamp is going to blow at any time, I don't believe it's the main cause of my problem. What's happening is that when the set is off, the LED is always red. When I turn the set on, it starts up like normal with the red light turning yellow like before. I get a picture for about a half a second and everything shuts off and the light goes red again. My cheat sheet on what the LEDs mean says that red means "Lamp did not turn on." Since I'm getting picture--if even for a second--it tells me the lamp is still usable.

I called the repair shop that's done work on it in the past and was told it seems like a bad ballast. Sounds good to me.

Is this something I can fix myself? And where can I get cheap parts? People on eBay only offer so much. I have to check out "V"!!

Thanks again everyone.

When bulbs have lasted a good long time and are ready to go they will do this. These lamps are similar to street lamps or large outdoor lights and they will start to turn on and off when they need to be replaced. A lamp ballast in all of my experience works or doesnt. I have yet to see one work after it has failed by restarting it. From all of the Mitsubishi sets I have repaired I have seen both the bulb and bad caps behave this way but never the ballast. Good luck.
I have another idea. Unplug your set for 15 seconds and plug it back in. when it askes if you replaced the lamp push enter to reset the lamp hours. run it for a few minutes and the turn it off to see if the red light light goes away. I have dont this a few times after replacing a bulb.

Welp,

I just ordered a new lamp. I'm going to try that first. Then, if that fails, I'll move on to the ballast. If THAT fails, I'll move on to a Panny V10...

Thanks, everyone, for all the advice.

A few weeks ago I acquired a 62725 and after reading up on techlore, pulled the guts out, replaced the bad caps, and put it all back together. Works great now for the past 2 weeks. i like it so much, I'm thinking about selling my 65 inch rear projection mitsubishi silver medallion tv and just keeping this dlp.

Anywho, just wanted to say that it took me a week to fix it. bought the tv, pulled it apart, found which caps I needed, ordered new ones from digikey and/or mouser, they arrived 4 days later, and that weekend i unsoldered the old ones and put the new ones in.

The OTA hd picture is really really good. Last night, i took the screen off and cleaned the mirror and lense with a feather duster and compressed air and the difference was very noticeable.

--might be a 62525.. i need to go home and check, but it works well so far.

I think the 62525 and the 62725 are the same Chassis. The difference is the speaker cover. The 525 is cloth and 725 is painted plastic. I could be wrong.

My 52725 was returned from the repair shop on Fri. It had been sent doen to NJ from Rochester NY for a chasis rebuild. New bulb. It's now downstairs in the little used family room. Hopefully it will last for years with the little use it will get.

Hello, so after having a couple capacitors replaced early this year I am experiencing wavy lines. I also notice that Digikey is out of the P5533-ND part. This is the 1000uf 16v capacitor that appears to be the big problem one. Can I replace this with something else? I see I can get other types that are rated for only 1000 hours? Will this work or hold me over for the time being?

I will be happy if I can get another year out of this tv at this point!

Thanks!

Hey so I am trying to replace the capacitors. I can't figure out how to remove the chassis completely out of the TV. Also do I need to removed the board completely from the chassis. I was hoping to take it to a pro to do the soldering. ANy help would be great. JT

Ok... Made an appointment with PC Richards to pick up my TV... my 52725 is not starting again.... needs to be reset each time....

It was repaired in the summer for this same problem... and two chassis replacements prior to this...

It is insane.

I can't honestly feel I trust this set and my warranty will be wearing off soon. Any advice how I can get them to replace it? I'd be happy to pay for a new warranty on the new set...

I just got my rebuilt chassis for my wd-62825 back from Mitsubshi today. The service man installed the chassis but we are getting an issue when we power it on. It will go through the boot sequence OK but when powering it on there is no picture and eventually it will get an orange lamp error light. The status code it generates after this is 3-4 which is lamp abnormality. Anyone have any ideas on this one?

I just got my rebuilt chassis for my wd-62825 back from Mitsubshi today. The service man installed the chassis but we are getting an issue when we power it on. It will go through the boot sequence OK but when powering it on there is no picture and eventually it will get an orange lamp error light. The status code it generates after this is 3-4 which is lamp abnormality. Anyone have any ideas on this one?there is possibly something wrong in the power supply. I seen this problem and it is a 4 amp SMD fuse that goes out. Or he didnt connect something properly. I still believe the PS has something to do with it

Ok... Made an appointment with PC Richards to pick up my TV... my 52725 is not starting again.... needs to be reset each time....

It was repaired in the summer for this same problem... and two chassis replacements prior to this...

It is insane.

I can't honestly feel I trust this set and my warranty will be wearing off soon. Any advice how I can get them to replace it? I'd be happy to pay for a new warranty on the new set... Talk to Mitsubishi. They realy are a good company to work with. Stand fiirm on what your asking for and you will get results. Explain the ongoing issue.

Hello, so after having a couple capacitors replaced early this year I am experiencing wavy lines. I also notice that Digikey is out of the P5533-ND part. This is the 1000uf 16v capacitor that appears to be the big problem one. Can I replace this with something else? I see I can get other types that are rated for only 1000 hours? Will this work or hold me over for the time being?

I will be happy if I can get another year out of this tv at this point!

Thanks!Replace these with high temp 680 microfarad at 16 volts. These dont seem to be as overworked as the 1000 in the circut. This is also a Mits service bulliten suggestion

Hey so I am trying to replace the capacitors. I can't figure out how to remove the chassis completely out of the TV. Also do I need to removed the board completely from the chassis. I was hoping to take it to a pro to do the soldering. ANy help would be great. JT If your going to do it this way and your not able to you may want to leave the entire setup to the pro. Its not difficult but it is complicated and damage to the set is easily done. If you are in CT I can help.

I am looking for these sets to repair for myself or people who need help and do not want to pay a crazy repair bill. Please consider offering it to me before you dump it or take it in for repairs. I have had tons of luck repairing these sets and really enjoy it. I am in Connecticut and can travel for pickup. Still looking for these if anyone is interested.

I have a WD-52525 and when i woke up this morning i had a blinking red status light and the tv does not go on any suggestions? Thank you

I have a WD-52525 and when i woke up this morning i had a blinking red status light and the tv does not go on any suggestions? Thank youseveral thing will cause this. Sounds like the power supply failed. Did you try power cycle and reset?

Again, with your advice, it's fixed. Thank you so much!!! I was sweatin there for a bit.

I may have a WD-62725 for you - there might be a problem getting it from Oklahoma though...

This morning when I powered it on it had small black and white rectangles filling the whole screen in kind of a herringbone pattern. Tried reset and recycled the power still same problem.

Any other ideas?

I do have electronic repair experience but no service information for this TV.

It would be interesting, like you said, to see how long these rebuilds do last. Mine should be coming back from the shop soon.
Will give ya a shout out when it gets back home.
I haven't read where anybody is having trouble yet from the rebuilds.
If you have had trouble, how long from when you got the chassis back?
Let's keep this going.

I bought my wd52525 from Ultimate Electronics in September 2004 (~$3540 plus $400 for the 5 year warranty). The lamp blew up in November, and a warranty replacement was provided within two weeks. So all was reasonably well for almost three years; nothing that an occasional reset or power cycle wouldn’t correct. Then in July 2007, it needed warranty repair for the BGLOD. Ultimate Electronics had closed all their stores in Texas, so I had to call their Colorado facility to get the Warrantech number before being referred to a local authorized repair shop. The shop picked up the set and returned it four weeks later with a new DM PCB assembly. It lasted 30 days before failing again. This time, parts were back-ordered, and it took 3 months to make repairs and return the set. Less than 8 months later, in August 2008, it failed again. This time, the shop sent the entire electrical chassis to Mitsubishi to be rebuilt. It took just under 6 weeks to get the rebuilt chassis back and installed. It was still under the extended warranty at the time, and hadn’t cost me anything yet for the three repairs. The rebuild lasted almost 14 months, failing just last Saturday (November 21) with the dreaded BGLOD. On top of that, I had just replaced the lamp less than a month ago ($129.99 at Nextday DLP Lamps & Lighting). The extended warranty with Warrantech had expired in September, so I’ll be calling Mitsubishi Consumer Relations this week to explore my options. All in all, my set was in the shop for nearly 6 of the past 29 months, much of that during football season. Most inconvenient ...

langlauf6 -- check the consumer protection laws in your state. Some state laws provide that warranties are extended for periods of non-use due to repair time.

I bought my wd52525 from Ultimate Electronics in September 2004 (~$3540 plus $400 for the 5 year warranty). The lamp blew up in November, and a warranty replacement was provided within two weeks. So all was reasonably well for almost three years; nothing that an occasional reset or power cycle wouldn’t correct. Then in July 2007, it needed warranty repair for the BGLOD. Ultimate Electronics had closed all their stores in Texas, so I had to call their Colorado facility to get the Warrantech number before being referred to a local authorized repair shop. The shop picked up the set and returned it four weeks later with a new DM PCB assembly. It lasted 30 days before failing again. This time, parts were back-ordered, and it took 3 months to make repairs and return the set. Less than 8 months later, in August 2008, it failed again. This time, the shop sent the entire electrical chassis to Mitsubishi to be rebuilt. It took just under 6 weeks to get the rebuilt chassis back and installed. It was still under the extended warranty at the time, and hadn’t cost me anything yet for the three repairs. The rebuild lasted almost 14 months, failing just last Saturday (November 21) with the dreaded BGLOD. On top of that, I had just replaced the lamp less than a month ago ($129.99 at Nextday DLP Lamps & Lighting). The extended warranty with Warrantech had expired in September, so I’ll be calling Mitsubishi Consumer Relations this week to explore my options. All in all, my set was in the shop for nearly 6 of the past 29 months, much of that during football season. Most inconvenient ...

Definately give Mits a call. See my previous posts on the last couple pages of this thread on what to do. It's worth a try....I got a new WD-65737 replacement as a result!

QGGeneric & 2left:
Mits told me essentially the same thing; get an estimate for repair, and fax it to them along with the purchase receipt and invoices from all previous repairs. I checked with Warrantech on the warranty status. They extend the warranty for 30-90 days from the last date of repair, with no additional grace period for time in shop. So, the set has been out of warranty since early September. A service tech is coming out next week to provide a repair estimate. I’ll let you know how this turns out. Thanks for your help.

Awhile ago I posted that I had fixed my 62725 bglod issue by opening up the chassis and replacing the bulging caps with panasonic replacements. This fixed the blinking green light issue, however, a few weeks later when I went to use the hdmi input, all I got was wavy lines across the screen, something which looked like the vertical hold was out. The composite and component and vga inputs all worked fine however, just the hdmi was shot which bummed me because, well, its how I connect my htpc to the tv.

So, I pulled the chassis out again this weekend and started replacing caps. Where I had found one bulging caps in a cluster of 4 and replaced just the one earlier, I went ahead and replaced the other 3 this time that looked good as well. I ended up soldering in about 6-8 new caps.

Put it all back together and voila, the hdmi input is now working perfectly. No overscan either, like on my 65413 rear projection tv and the picture is really nice.

I'm trying to resurrect a WD-62725 series set. Anyone know what causes very slight video instability and some distortion on moving high contrast images such as white text moving vertically or changing intensity. I've changed all the surface mount silver caps, and all the power supply caps. How might I go about diagnosing? What part of what board would the video signal be common across all inputs? The on screen display graphics seem unaffected, clean and stable, only live video sources have this strange distortion in both hd, and sd signals, hdmi, and composite, front and rear inputs. thx

Ok, I am back on here once again. Got the GBLOD about a year ago and replaced all the recommend caps. Set worked great until this morning when I lost power which is odd due to the fact the set is on a very large, high quality UPS and was not even powered on when the power went out. My issue now is that I get NOTHING when I try to turn it on. Did the power cycle and reset. Pulled it apart, checked fuses and did a visual on the PWB caps but they look fine.

Any Ideas before I start looking for a new set? :(

Thanks for any ideas.

John

Fixed mine just about 2 years ago and had the same thing happen to me this week. The set is in the basement now. I am done with it.

Ok, I am back on here once again. Got the GBLOD about a year ago and replaced all the recommend caps. Set worked great until this morning when I lost power which is odd due to the fact the set is on a very large, high quality UPS and was not even powered on when the power went out. My issue now is that I get NOTHING when I try to turn it on. Did the power cycle and reset. Pulled it apart, checked fuses and did a visual on the PWB caps but they look fine.

Any Ideas before I start looking for a new set? :(

Thanks for any ideas.

John

First time I've posted to this thread in a while...

I have a 62725 and recently my lamp light started to glow yellow. I replaced the lamp once before - not too hard. I found a dealership that sells lamps and had the lamp replaced in the frame. I drove back home to reinstall the lamp assembly and got the BGLOD.

The dealership said that it happened because I left the set unplugged for about an hour and some of the caps went bad when they cooled off. That sounded odd to me, but after reading posts here I see that it might be true.

This set is plugged into a UPS so it has been quite a while since it lost power completely... probably about 6 months ago when I replaced the UPS batteries.

Does their explanation sound reasonable?

I unplaugged mine for the first time in 22 months for about five minutes last week and it is now a BGLOD special.

Anyone want parts?

First time I've posted to this thread in a while...

I have a 62725 and recently my lamp light started to glow yellow. I replaced the lamp once before - not too hard. I found a dealership that sells lamps and had the lamp replaced in the frame. I drove back home to reinstall the lamp assembly and got the BGLOD.

The dealership said that it happened because I left the set unplugged for about an hour and some of the caps went bad when they cooled off. That sounded odd to me, but after reading posts here I see that it might be true.

This set is plugged into a UPS so it has been quite a while since it lost power completely... probably about 6 months ago when I replaced the UPS batteries.

Does their explanation sound reasonable?

First time I've posted to this thread in a while...

I have a 62725 and recently my lamp light started to glow yellow. I replaced the lamp once before - not too hard. I found a dealership that sells lamps and had the lamp replaced in the frame. I drove back home to reinstall the lamp assembly and got the BGLOD.

The dealership said that it happened because I left the set unplugged for about an hour and some of the caps went bad when they cooled off. That sounded odd to me, but after reading posts here I see that it might be true.

This set is plugged into a UPS so it has been quite a while since it lost power completely... probably about 6 months ago when I replaced the UPS batteries. Does their explanation sound reasonable?

BS, BS, BS
.........just normal uninformed employees or worse they are trying to lay the blame off on you, again BS BS BS!

The caps/electrical chassis in these sets have been going bad for the past 2-3 years. It is due to Mits poor design/engineering and use of cheap caps/parts.

Mits knows this and thats why they replace over 100+ caps/parts when they do a free complete electrical chassis rebuild (you pay the labor charges) and then give you another year warranty where they will arrange for a replacement if it happens again.

Ok, I am back on here once again. Got the GBLOD about a year ago and replaced all the recommend caps. Set worked great until this morning when I lost power which is odd due to the fact the set is on a very large, high quality UPS and was not even powered on when the power went out. My issue now is that I get NOTHING when I try to turn it on. Did the power cycle and reset. Pulled it apart, checked fuses and did a visual on the PWB caps but they look fine. Any Ideas before I start looking for a new set? :( Thanks for any ideas. John

very normal to replace a few bad caps and get some extra life out of theses sets .......but then have them go out again in the future with other caps failing.

IF you still want to put ~$200-300 more into it, then get it diagnosed by your local mits authorized service center/tech with the electrical chassis failure issue. Contact Mits and they will pay for the rebuilt chassis and give you a 1 year warranty. You pay the ~$200-300 labor charges to diagnose/pull/replace the chassis by your mits asc/tech.

Not to change the subject too much. But, I just got my 52725 back from the shop after the chassis change. Works great, but, I don't know if the HDMI port is working correctly. Let me explain. I have a LG BD390 player and a Denon 2310 AVR. so:

LG390 (HDMI-OUT)-----------------> 2310 HDMI-2(IN) [HDP Port]

2310 HDMI--------------------------> Mits 52725 (MONLINK- IN) MONLINK is selected in the DEVICE menu.


Now if I turn on everything I get intermittent screen changes from BLUE (which has MONLINK in yellow on the upper left screen) to completely BLACK and then changes back to BLUE and then BLACK and so forth.
This TV worked with the HDMI connected before I brought it in to get fixed.
This has really got me puzzled.
Any response would be greatly appreciated:

Thanks:

Lyle

Ok, I am back on here once again. Got the GBLOD about a year ago and replaced all the recommend caps. Set worked great until this morning when I lost power which is odd due to the fact the set is on a very large, high quality UPS and was not even powered on when the power went out. My issue now is that I get NOTHING when I try to turn it on. Did the power cycle and reset. Pulled it apart, checked fuses and did a visual on the PWB caps but they look fine.

Any Ideas before I start looking for a new set? :(

Thanks for any ideas.

John There are lots of things to look for. I can throw ideas at you untill you find something. You did not say if you get the BGLOD or any light at all but sounds like its dead. Here is where I would start. Check power source. Make sure line voltage is present. Check to see what you do have. If the set does absolutly nothing it has to be a fuse or the absence of line voltage. There are several small fuses too but sounds like line voltage if you have total failure.

First time I've posted to this thread in a while...

I have a 62725 and recently my lamp light started to glow yellow. I replaced the lamp once before - not too hard. I found a dealership that sells lamps and had the lamp replaced in the frame. I drove back home to reinstall the lamp assembly and got the BGLOD.

The dealership said that it happened because I left the set unplugged for about an hour and some of the caps went bad when they cooled off. That sounded odd to me, but after reading posts here I see that it might be true.

This set is plugged into a UPS so it has been quite a while since it lost power completely... probably about 6 months ago when I replaced the UPS batteries.

Does their explanation sound reasonable? It does sound reasonable except that the caps did not go bad when you powered down the set, they were already worn. The set passed the boot when the caps were good but could not do it again when you pulled power. The caps will store better when warm. When the set is unplugged the worn caps will drain and cool. I have had sets work after being plugged in for hours with the BGLOD and then a simple reset allowed the set to start. I would look into a repair because this will only become a headache.

Not to change the subject too much. But, I just got my 52725 back from the shop after the chassis change. Works great, but, I don't know if the HDMI port is working correctly. Let me explain. I have a LG BD390 player and a Denon 2310 AVR. so:

LG390 (HDMI-OUT)-----------------> 2310 HDMI-2(IN) [HDP Port]

2310 HDMI--------------------------> Mits 52725 (MONLINK- IN) MONLINK is selected in the DEVICE menu.


Now if I turn on everything I get intermittent screen changes from BLUE (which has MONLINK in yellow on the upper left screen) to completely BLACK and then changes back to BLUE and then BLACK and so forth.
This TV worked with the HDMI connected before I brought it in to get fixed.
This has really got me puzzled.
Any response would be greatly appreciated:

Thanks:

Lyle Sounds like a failed repair. Did they change your firmware? I would try to unplug everything and and start over. Power cycle both the tv and the HDMI device and be sure the HDMI device is not connected to the TV. Set the tv to Monlink and with the device powered on, plug in the HDMI cable to the device and the TV. Make it do a live communication. If this does not help, Check to see if other HDMI devices do the same thing.

Sounds like a failed repair. Did they change your firmware? I would try to unplug everything and and start over. Power cycle both the tv and the HDMI device and be sure the HDMI device is not connected to the TV. Set the tv to Monlink and with the device powered on, plug in the HDMI cable to the device and the TV. Make it do a live communication. If this does not help, Check to see if other HDMI devices do the same thing.

I called the shop that did the repair. He said that Mits repairs the chassis, but doesn't update anything else except the software version (4.08 is what I have now I had 4.06). This means that if you have newer equipment that has advanced HDMI versions, the 4 year old DLP'S are not going to be able to recognize the signal.(Handshake problem) He also said that I should try using other resolutions from the 2310 other than the auto selection, which is 720P to see if that works with the tv. This has been a real learning experience, in how fast technology changes things. He was also saying that in a couple of years there will not be any DVD's of any style to be had. The technology will just overtake them and a new system will be in it's place. Something about hard drives in the STB's and such. Which we have now. Anyway, I plan to try your suggestion to hookup the BD directly to the TV and see what happens. I will let you know what happens.

Lyle

Mits knows this and thats why they replace over 100+ caps/parts when they do a free complete electrical chassis rebuild (you pay the labor charges) and then give you another year warranty where they will arrange for a replacement if it happens again.

My mitsu chasis was rebuilt under extended warranty. It had died 1 week before it expired in Sept. Got it back Nov 6. 2 weeks ago, it died again. Repair shop said that Mitsu would cover the chasis but I wouls have to pay for the pick up and labor to dissasemble. They suggested I call the insurance company and argue with them. Didn't have to argue. They OK'd the pick up and "repair". I told them I would gladly take a cash settlement to get rid of the set. Waiting to hear.

I have a Wd 62825 that was diagnosed over the phone by Mitsubishi as having a bad chassis. I have read the posts about the process of having a service call diag, then calling mitsubishi and have them pay for parts and I handle the labor payment . My question is, is this possible without the reciept for the purchase of the tv?

Mitsubishi required the receipt for original purchase from me last week. I had to go back to the original store where I purchased it and they provided to me. You might try that.

It does sound reasonable except that the caps did not go bad when you powered down the set, they were already worn. The set passed the boot when the caps were good but could not do it again when you pulled power. The caps will store better when warm. When the set is unplugged the worn caps will drain and cool. I have had sets work after being plugged in for hours with the BGLOD and then a simple reset allowed the set to start. I would look into a repair because this will only become a headache.Thanks for the info. I left the set plugged in for hours... pressing the reset still didn't do anything.

I have started the path by calling Mitsubishi and later having their Dealer come out for the diagnostics test. The technician said he has worked on about 400 of these sets.

The technician who came to work on my 73833 told me not to even bother fixing my 62525 if it breaks. He said it wasn't worth it.

The technician who came to work on my 73833 told me not to even bother fixing my 62525 if it breaks. He said it wasn't worth it.

I know that there are problems with these tv's, but. In my opinion, I think that it's worth the money to have Mitsubishi at least pay something for the repair and get a little bit more time on these televisions. The money that you pay for the repair won't buy you a new tv, and that is actually what you are getting, well not really, but what you get back is almost a new tv. At least for a little while. But try pricing another 62 inch tv and see if you can get one for $3-400.00. No way.
I'll get off my soapbox now, thank you.
Lyle

I found the receipt to my tv but the store it was bought from was sold to Ken cranes. Luckily they gave me a number for the company that handles the extended warranties. I called I have scheduled a tech to come out to look at my tv.

Kind of off topic. What can I use to clean the reflective screen on my Wd 62825 it can be removed but whatever I use to clean it seems like stains worse than the last. Any help?

The technician who came to work on my 73833 told me not to even bother fixing my 62525 if it breaks. He said it wasn't worth it.I looked at other large screen HD sets. The problem is that the price of 62" sets haven't dropped like the smaller ones have.

It's way, way cheaper to spend a few hundred $$ to keep my Mits DLP set running another year or two.

I looked at other large screen HD sets. The problem is that the price of 62" sets haven't dropped like the smaller ones have.

It's way, way cheaper to spend a few hundred $$ to keep my Mits DLP set running another year or two.

Smart Choice!

I know that there are problems with these tv's, but. In my opinion, I think that it's worth the money to have Mitsubishi at least pay something for the repair and get a little bit more time on these televisions. The money that you pay for the repair won't buy you a new tv, and that is actually what you are getting, well not really, but what you get back is almost a new tv. At least for a little while. But try pricing another 62 inch tv and see if you can get one for $3-400.00. No way.
I'll get off my soapbox now, thank you.
Lyle

Again, if your repair history indicates you've had the electrical chassis repaired/replaced multiple times, Mits may give you a replacement TV instead of yet another chassis rebuild. See my posts a couple pages back in this thread.

I know that there are problems with these tv's, but. In my opinion, I think that it's worth the money to have Mitsubishi at least pay something for the repair and get a little bit more time on these televisions. The money that you pay for the repair won't buy you a new tv, and that is actually what you are getting, well not really, but what you get back is almost a new tv. At least for a little while. But try pricing another 62 inch tv and see if you can get one for $3-400.00. No way.
I'll get off my soapbox now, thank you.
Lyle

I looked at other large screen HD sets. The problem is that the price of 62" sets haven't dropped like the smaller ones have.

It's way, way cheaper to spend a few hundred $$ to keep my Mits DLP set running another year or two.

I'm not sure I would repair it since I've had it for over 5 years now. I wouldn't want to deal with the aggravation and time involved to get it repaired. This is all hypothetical now since it is still working great. All I've had to buy is a new lamp so far.

I found the receipt to my tv but the store it was bought from was sold to Ken cranes. Luckily they gave me a number for the company that handles the extended warranties. I called I have scheduled a tech to come out to look at my tv.

Kind of off topic. What can I use to clean the reflective screen on my Wd 62825 it can be removed but whatever I use to clean it seems like stains worse than the last. Any help?
I use eyeglass cleaner wipes and a eyeglass polishing cloth to remove any streaks. The box states that it can be used for LCD/ laptop screens. I buy these at Sears optical but im sure any eyeglass store can provide it.

I'm not sure I would repair it since I've had it for over 5 years now. I wouldn't want to deal with the aggravation and time involved to get it repaired. This is all hypothetical now since it is still working great. All I've had to buy is a new lamp so far. I have a WD-62825 with a matching stand. I would spend up to 700.00 if needed to get another 5 years from it. I cant replace it including the stand for anywhere near that and besides that, the 825 is a nice looking set. I went thru the chassis once already and im on my second lamp only because I wanted the picture brighter when I had it all apart. I guess im not at such a loss because I repair them and have other large sets when I need them. My living room has a 55" Sony. The Mits is in the game room. I realy like the Mits. My opinion I guess.

I use eyeglass cleaner wipes and a eyeglass polishing cloth to remove any streaks. The box states that it can be used for LCD/ laptop screens. I buy these at Sears optical but im sure any eyeglass store can provide it.

Thanks, I will try this.

Well, my first replacement chassis for my 52725 install went well, Tv fired up and all looked good. Then today, while running the TV for a while, the screen would freeze at the blue screen and neither the remote or the front panel buttons would respond. This happened twice at about 40 minutes each time.

The repair guy said I would need another new chassis from Mitsubishi, so the saga continues ( sigh ).

Well, my first replacement chassis for my 52725 install went well, Tv fired up and all looked good. Then today, while running the TV for a while, the screen would freeze at the blue screen and neither the remote or the front panel buttons would respond. This happened twice at about 40 minutes each time.

The repair guy said I would need another new chassis from Mitsubishi, so the saga continues ( sigh ).

Contact Mits directly. This is a similar scenerio to what I had, and I got a new replacement tv for a nominal fee. Again, look for my previous posts in this thread.

Thanks, will do. A new one sounds better than more visits from the repair shop.

I looked at other large screen HD sets. The problem is that the price of 62" sets haven't dropped like the smaller ones have.

5 years ago this set would have been $5000, now it is below $2000. I would say that's quite a big price drop.

http://www.monitoroutlet.com/product/mitsubishi_wd65837_mitsubishi_medallion_wd_65837_65_projecti on_tv,36266.html

QGGeneric & 2left:
Mits told me essentially the same thing; get an estimate for repair, and fax it to them along with the purchase receipt and invoices from all previous repairs. I checked with Warrantech on the warranty status. They extend the warranty for 30-90 days from the last date of repair, with no additional grace period for time in shop. So, the set has been out of warranty since early September. A service tech is coming out next week to provide a repair estimate. I’ll let you know how this turns out. Thanks for your help.
My local Mits authorized repair shop sent out two service techs on December 1 to provide me with an estimate for repair. At the time, I was still getting the BGLOD, but when I hit the system reset as the service techs watched, the power supply failed and there were no more blinking lights at all. It was completely dead. Their diagnosis was a bad DM board and bad power supply, with a recommendation to send the chassis out for another full rebuild. Estimated cost of repair was $750 ($350 for parts, $400 for labor). The service call cost me $81 just so I could get the repair estimate that Mits requires. I called their Consumer Relations number and was assigned a case number. They provided clear instructions to fax the purchase receipt, all three invoices from previous repairs, and the invoice with the new repair estimate. Mits called me back the next day with an offer to replace my 52525 with a new 60737. Since most of the new sets don’t have media card slots or NetCommand, I asked about a possible upgrade to one that has those features. Mits indicated that they could credit me the value of the 60737 against a different model, but I would have to pay the difference. I chose to take their offer for the 60737. As far as pickup and replacement goes, Mits prefers to work with the original retailer. I bought my 52525 from Ultimate Electronics in 2004, but they had closed all their local stores a few years ago. So Mits finally gave up trying to find a nearby Ultimate store to work with, and opened a work order with the local authorized repair shop, who picked up my set yesterday to scrap it (at no cost to me). Mits will arrange to ship a 60737 to the repair shop, and have them deliver and install it. While this has been a rather drawn out process, I’ll give Mits Consumer Relations kudos for being very considerate, courteous, and responsive to my problems, especially considering that my set went out of warranty a few months ago. So, I’m actually looking forward to seeing the service techs again, this time with a replacement TV in tow.

I have been following this thread for a while now.

I also enjoy the fun BGLOD issue that so many others here do also.

I replaced all of the caps on my WD-62825 and that did not fix it.

I then tried the 'flip the switch' fix that has been mentioned on the 6v FMT line.

That switch did fix my TV for about 4 month, my wife was shocked that I actually got it going again after sitting for a year!

After 4 months that fix stopped working and now I am back to the BGLOD

The set has a new bulb in it and I never had any of the light engine issues so this set may be great for parts for someone, or possibly even to fix, if you have figured out a BGLOD fix.

I just have no more time to mess with this thing so I am moving on.

I think this set only worked for about 14 months of the past 3 years and I am now tossing in the towel.

I am tired of only being able to watch the TV in my bedroom!

If anyone can use this for parts or wants to try to fix it, it's yours for the taking.

It's FREE to the 1st person to pick it up, so if you are interested and you are near Alta Loma / Rancho Cucamonga, California you are welcome to it.

I can actually live with out this TV, but what kills me is I spent $9500 building a custom cabinet around this set that fits it perfectly.

Sure wish I could find something else that would fit this hole exactly... looks like I am going to have to have my cabinet guy come out and rebuild this cabinet once I decide on a new set...

Bummer...

F*** you Mitsubishi....

(Sorry for the language here, but I am pretty un-happy about having built a cabinet for this darn thing) The Mitsubishi WD-62825 would be best suited to just take off the screen, lay it on it's back in my backyard, fill it with dirt to grow tomatoes out of it. At least then I would have gotten some value out of this thing.

I thought about putting a WD-65835 in its place, that will fit the same side to side and only leave me a 4 1/2 inch gap on the top, I figured an added shelf all the way across the top of the new TV would solve that issue, but honestly I can't imagine giving Mitsubishi even $1 more of my money after this headache.

You can see pictures of the set here it looks beautiful, and has a very pretty flashing green light on the front.

http://www.JeremyBurns.com/Free-Mitsubishi-WD-62825

If you want to pick it up just PM me, I will even help you load this piece of junk onto your truck.

I can put this by the curb for my trash man, but thought I would see if there is anybody here that would like this for parts first before I do that.

My local Mits authorized repair shop sent out two service techs on December 1 to provide me with an estimate for repair. At the time, I was still getting the BGLOD, but when I hit the system reset as the service techs watched, the power supply failed and there were no more blinking lights at all. It was completely dead. Their diagnosis was a bad DM board and bad power supply, with a recommendation to send the chassis out for another full rebuild. Estimated cost of repair was $750 ($350 for parts, $400 for labor). The service call cost me $81 just so I could get the repair estimate that Mits requires. I called their Consumer Relations number and was assigned a case number. They provided clear instructions to fax the purchase receipt, all three invoices from previous repairs, and the invoice with the new repair estimate. Mits called me back the next day with an offer to replace my 52525 with a new 60737. Since most of the new sets don’t have media card slots or NetCommand, I asked about a possible upgrade to one that has those features. Mits indicated that they could credit me the value of the 60737 against a different model, but I would have to pay the difference. I chose to take their offer for the 60737. As far as pickup and replacement goes, Mits prefers to work with the original retailer. I bought my 52525 from Ultimate Electronics in 2004, but they had closed all their local stores a few years ago. So Mits finally gave up trying to find a nearby Ultimate store to work with, and opened a work order with the local authorized repair shop, who picked up my set yesterday to scrap it (at no cost to me). Mits will arrange to ship a 60737 to the repair shop, and have them deliver and install it. While this has been a rather drawn out process, I’ll give Mits Consumer Relations kudos for being very considerate, courteous, and responsive to my problems, especially considering that my set went out of warranty a few months ago. So, I’m actually looking forward to seeing the service techs again, this time with a replacement TV in tow.

Great news! Thanks for the update, and let us know when you take delivery.

I'm sure you'll find that the 60737 is leaps and bounds better in picture quality compared to your 52525. I've had my 65737 just over a month now, and I'm still wowed by the picture.

...

I can actually live with out this TV, but what kills me is I spent $9500 building a custom cabinet around this set that fits it perfectly.

...

Why would anyone build a cabinet for one TV? TV's change so constantly that no one should build a cabinet around the TV. Also, these DLP TVs put out so much heat, there should be a lot of ventilation for the hot air. Where is the hot air going in your setup? Is it stuck behind the TV? You're asking for trouble if it is.

Just got off the phone with Mitsubishi about my 52725. It's back at the shop or on it's way to NJ for the 2nd time since Oct for the blinking light of death. The insurance company didn't want to replace it so after reading that people had contacted Mitsu directly, I did. I requested eithe a replacement of a cash settlement. I was told that I would hear back from them in less than a day. I'll post the results when I hear from them.

Why would anyone build a cabinet for one TV? TV's change so constantly that no one should build a cabinet around the TV. Also, these DLP TVs put out so much heat, there should be a lot of ventilation for the hot air. Where is the hot air going in your setup? Is it stuck behind the TV? Your asking for trouble if it is.

Lujan, you are absolutely correct it was a totally bad move building a cabinet to fit this TV. We had just moved into this house and there was a big hole in the wall to build something like this so we did before totally thinking it through.

In the past I have always had a TV at least 5 or 6 years and I expected that out of the 62825 - would would have known it would only last 14 months for $4500-

There is a ton of hollow space behind the TV at least 20 inches deeper than the tv is behind it in the cabinet and there are also tons of vent holes in the shelving so it does get plenty of air so I am sure that air flow has not been an issue.

But again I agree, building a cabinet for any TV is not smart, I will not do it again in my next house!

Free WD-62825 is still available if anybody needs it for parts ;-)

Lujan, you are absolutely correct it was a totally bad move building a cabinet to fit this TV. We had just moved into this house and there was a big hole in the wall to build something like this so we did before totally thinking it through.

In the past I have always had a TV at least 5 or 6 years and I expected that out of the 62825 - would would have known it would only last 14 months for $4500-

There is a ton of hollow space behind the TV at least 20 inches deeper than the tv is behind it in the cabinet and there are also tons of vent holes in the shelving so it does get plenty of air so I am sure that air flow has not been an issue.

But again I agree, building a cabinet for any TV is not smart, I will not do it again in my next house!

Free WD-62825 is still available if anybody needs it for parts ;-) I like what you did for the TV. Because of that alone, I would fix it. You can find something to fit its spot but you can also get this chassis rebuilt for under 400.00 and from the sounds of it do all of your own work. The reason the switch did not last is you missed something or your replacement caps have gone bad. Good luck, John

I have the WD-52725 and absolutely loved it for the first 2 years. At the time of purchase, I thought that this TV offered the best picture quality available for the price (I paid $2,349 at Tweeter R.I.P.) back in 2005.

Over the past few years I have noticed a decline in brightness (replaced lamp once so far-not bad), removed screen for cleaning, and recently have experienced the "wavy lines". I switched input from component to HDMI and did see an improvement, but I still think the PQ is better with component (side note....720p better than 1080i IMHO??).

Now on the HDMI input, I notice what appear to be "streaks" or flashes of blue-ish/white lines that show up randomly but seem to be most prevalent in on-screen guides or when watching recorded shows for some reason.

Should I spend the money on a diagnostic (is it the capacitors or DM?) and get it repaired or bite the bullet, chalk it up as a $500 per year TV, and buy a 50" Panasonic plasma for $1000??? I still don't like LCD's at all......

Should I spend the money on a diagnostic (is it the capacitors or DM?) and get it repaired or bite the bullet, chalk it up as a $500 per year TV, and buy a 50" Panasonic plasma for $1000??? I still don't like LCD's at all......

After my experience, I'd put it out at the road and say it's free. Get the Panasonic. I got a new Samsung LCD last spring. Had the Mitsu picked up for a repair of the DM board. Then in Sept had the BGLOD 1 week before the warranty expired. Chassis was sent to NJ for a rebuild. Got it back Nov 6. 3 weeks later, the BGLOD happened again. Has been picked up again. I've called Mitsu to see if they will give me a settlement on the TV. Why spend the money for diagnostic when for not that much more you'll have a much better TV.

After a lot of reading (I was originally looking for a firmware update) I see that a lot of people have had issues relating to the power supply, and thought I would chime in with my experience.

The first year I had my WD 62725 I had to call Mits service repair no less then half a dozen times, and the last visit in 2006 was to replace the entire chassis. Prior to this I had what I thought was a great Panamax surge protector (after months of searching the internet for the best price I found it for 300 when most sites had it at about 450), but started to think that perhaps my issues were power related due to other issues I had with electronics in my house. That same year I had to replace a TV, refrig, microwave, vcr, etc. you get the picture.

So I started looking for the best power surge protector I could find, and that could backup their claims. I looked at and tested one that cost well over 1500 bucks, and did not like what I was experiencing with picture and sound anomalies that were surfacing when the AC would turn on, so I returned that costly “test” surge protector.

After about half a year of searching and reading forum upon forum on surge protectors I came across what I currently have and it is called “The Brick” from http://www.brickwall.com/ , and let me tell you this thing is AMAZING, I have survived direct lighting strikes to the neighborhood transformer (the pole is right behind my fence) when other electronic items in the house were lost (as well as my neighbors stuff) everything plugged into the “Brick” did not surfer any issues.

I had previously taken my Mits apart and cleaned my lenses and mirrors about 1 year ago, and after a total of about 4 years in use I looked for and did not see any bulging caps, and can’t help but think that perhaps the fact that I have ultra clean power being fed to my entire home theater system has something to do with that (I know it does).

I still cannot believe till this day that something that cost 1/3 to 1/4 the price of those “more” expensice surge protectors does a better job, and is guaranteed the way it is, this thing will NEVER have to be replaced unlike the more expensive units that require you return them back to the manufacturer for replacement or repair (when your dealing with 1000+ units that service is free, but who wants the hassle?).
Sorry for the long read, but I hope that someone here can find this useful in some manner.

I called the shop that did the repair. He said that Mits repairs the chassis, but doesn't update anything else except the software version (4.08 is what I have now I had 4.06). This means that if you have newer equipment that has advanced HDMI versions, the 4 year old DLP'S are not going to be able to recognize the signal.(Handshake problem) He also said that I should try using other resolutions from the 2310 other than the auto selection, which is 720P to see if that works with the tv. This has been a real learning experience, in how fast technology changes things. He was also saying that in a couple of years there will not be any DVD's of any style to be had. The technology will just overtake them and a new system will be in it's place. Something about hard drives in the STB's and such. Which we have now. Anyway, I plan to try your suggestion to hookup the BD directly to the TV and see what happens. I will let you know what happens.

Lyle

Well I am now hooked up from the LG-390 to my Denon2310 via component. Apparently, this is the only way that the 52725 will accept an HD signal from the 390. I used the last of the 2 component inputs on the 2310. I will use this until I get the nod from the better half to go ahead and get another, better, dependable TV. Probably an LCD.

Lyle

Yep, the extended warranty on my 725 ended today. Yep, I just noticed the wavy lines on all component inputs. I can live with that, but the vertical blue static line that happens once per second is rather annoying. If only I'd called about those wavy lines last month...... but, I see 50 " plus lcd's are around a thousand bucks, so guess what.....

You've got a very expensive boat anchor?

Well, After 5.5 years I now have a BGLOD and I can't reset it. I have a 62725 it was working and the circuit that feeds it was reset so it had a power cycle and now it won't initialize. I saw the BGLOD and I reset it and when I came back in the room it was initialized. Later when my wife tried to power it on it only does the BGLOD.

It is late and I tried to take a look at it and since I had not had previous problems I hope I don't need a rebuild. This is the second Mitz that I have had that didn't go the distance. Guess you might say I have lost confidence in the company.

It seems a little quiet once I plug it in but there are fans running. I downloaded the service manual and it said if I hit "Device and Menu" I should get an error code but I don't get one.. just the BGLOD. I've done the reset button, unplugged for 5 minutes, held the reset for two minutes (read that one in a post) and nothing seems to get me started.

I have read this forum extensively over the years and I wonder if it is worth trying to make it work. Putting another $300+ into this set and the down time necessary to make the repair might be more than I can handle. I might try to go in ans see if I have a frozen fan but it seems that the error codes will call a bad fan.

Has anyone had a bad fan give only a BGLOD indication? Seems like it should be able to report a bad fan. I have never done a FW load.. I was under the ... if it ain't broke don't fix it camp...

Any other suggestions? I will try to go in on Jan 02 and see if I can see anything bad and swap out the bulb.. any other suggestions.. I have one day to try as I have a house full of company on Sunday and I leave on a business trip early Monday..

Jack in CT...

Well, After 5.5 years I now have a BGLOD and I can't reset it. I have a 62725 it was working and the circuit that feeds it was reset so it had a power cycle and now it won't initialize. I saw the BGLOD and I reset it and when I came back in the room it was initialized. Later when my wife tried to power it on it only does the BGLOD.

It is late and I tried to take a look at it and since I had not had previous problems I hope I don't need a rebuild. This is the second Mitz that I have had that didn't go the distance. Guess you might say I have lost confidence in the company.

It seems a little quiet once I plug it in but there are fans running. I downloaded the service manual and it said if I hit "Device and Menu" I should get an error code but I don't get one.. just the BGLOD. I've done the reset button, unplugged for 5 minutes, held the reset for two minutes (read that one in a post) and nothing seems to get me started.

I have read this forum extensively over the years and I wonder if it is worth trying to make it work. Putting another $300+ into this set and the down time necessary to make the repair might be more than I can handle. I might try to go in ans see if I have a frozen fan but it seems that the error codes will call a bad fan.

Has anyone had a bad fan give only a BGLOD indication? Seems like it should be able to report a bad fan. I have never done a FW load.. I was under the ... if it ain't broke don't fix it camp...

Any other suggestions? I will try to go in on Jan 02 and see if I can see anything bad and swap out the bulb.. any other suggestions.. I have one day to try as I have a house full of company on Sunday and I leave on a business trip early Monday..

Jack in CT... I cannot recall a bad lamp or bad fan making this happen. Normaly a fan or a lamp malfunction will let the set complete boot then when the power button is pushed, it will shutdown and you will see the status LED. I am going to say this is due to failing caps on one or all of the boards. I am interested in it if you are giving up on it. Also, I can offer you a repair with a loaner. It would be a Sony 50" but like you said you will be out a couple hundred and the trip to get it to me and back to pick it up.

A bad lamp will give you a red led. Why throw good money into a bad piece of equipment. Use it for a downpayment on a new HDTV that will last longer than a semi-repaired pice of crap.

After being repaired in Oct and returned Nov 6, my 52725 died again after 3 weeks and maybe 5 hours of actual use. I replaced it as our main hdtv with a Samsung LCD last spring and the mitsu got relegated to the downstairs "family" room.

I'm trying to get mitsu to give me some kind of settlement. Currently they are waiting for my repair shop to send them a repair history.

A bad lamp will give you a red led. Why throw good money into a bad piece of equipment. Use it for a downpayment on a new HDTV that will last longer than a semi-repaired pice of crap.

After being repaired in Oct and returned Nov 6, my 52725 died again after 3 weeks and maybe 5 hours of actual use. I replaced it as our main hdtv with a Samsung LCD last spring and the mitsu got relegated to the downstairs "family" room.

I'm trying to get mitsu to give me some kind of settlement. Currently they are waiting for my repair shop to send them a repair history.Sounds like you need to find a better servicer if ever needed in the future. Was the chassis sent out or just repaired by the shop? I meant to say that a bad lamp will not give you a BGLOD. Not sure why I didnt just type that. I have repaired over 100 of these in the past 3 years and only 1 failed. Lots of people have had problems but I know of lots of people who have not.

I cannot recall a bad lamp or bad fan making this happen. Normaly a fan or a lamp malfunction will let the set complete boot then when the power button is pushed, it will shutdown and you will see the status LED. I am going to say this is due to failing caps on one or all of the boards. I am interested in it if you are giving up on it. Also, I can offer you a repair with a loaner. It would be a Sony 50" but like you said you will be out a couple hundred and the trip to get it to me and back to pick it up.

My thoughts are exactly the same after reviewing the service manual. Since other sets report exhibit similar failure symptoms i.e. GBLOD after wall power was removed but I felt that the collective knowledge here it would be worth throwing the thought out.

Like dwarren2 says I might be throwing good money after bad and that is exactly my thought. If I go through the hassle of getting Mitz to do the repair I will have a year of warranty but it will take months. I don't have a place to store it so I can't put it aside and buy another one without spending a considerable amount. My room is large and the 62" is OK and I would have liked a larger set. I was hoping that this one would last longer. Prices are dropping rapidly. My neighbor has a newer Mitz 73 and that is really nice and relatively reasonable considering what I paid for my last two Mitz TVs. I'm not sure if I want to give Mitz any more of my money.

I might take you up on the loaner 50" and try a repair. I can get you the set as I have a pickup and I live only in Shelton. About an hour from you. Do these TVs travel well? What do I need to do to make sure I don't vibrate the mirrors loose or knock something out of real alignment or break a color wheel loose on these winter roads? On the way to you I see there is no problem except some extra cost but on the way back. I'm not a stranger to fixing electronic components and probably have the skills to change the caps myself but what I don't have is the time or the space. The garage is cold this time of the year.

Bottom line is the cost. Tell me what my options are as far as you repairing my 62725 with approx turnaround time. I will also look at cost of replacing the set with newer and hopefully better technology. Also if you want my set for parts and is is worth anything to you in it's current state. It has a Mitz 62875 base with the glass window and gloss black finish...

Jack

Sounds like you need to find a better servicer if ever needed in the future. Was the chassis sent out or just repaired by the shop? I meant to say that a bad lamp will not give you a BGLOD. Not sure why I didnt just type that. I have repaired over 100 of these in the past 3 years and only 1 failed. Lots of people have had problems but I know of lots of people who have not.

The repair shop sent the chassis to Mitsu repairs in NJ. So it wasn't them. I have replaced the bulb several times in the 5 years I've had the set. I had a fresh bulb that the shop installed while they had it in. I think mine was one of the early ones. It's serial number was 100251.

My thoughts are exactly the same after reviewing the service manual. Since other sets report exhibit similar failure symptoms i.e. GBLOD after wall power was removed but I felt that the collective knowledge here it would be worth throwing the thought out.

Like dwarren2 says I might be throwing good money after bad and that is exactly my thought. If I go through the hassle of getting Mitz to do the repair I will have a year of warranty but it will take months. I don't have a place to store it so I can't put it aside and buy another one without spending a considerable amount. My room is large and the 62" is OK and I would have liked a larger set. I was hoping that this one would last longer. Prices are dropping rapidly. My neighbor has a newer Mitz 73 and that is really nice and relatively reasonable considering what I paid for my last two Mitz TVs. I'm not sure if I want to give Mitz any more of my money.

I might take you up on the loaner 50" and try a repair. I can get you the set as I have a pickup and I live only in Shelton. About an hour from you. Do these TVs travel well? What do I need to do to make sure I don't vibrate the mirrors loose or knock something out of real alignment or break a color wheel loose on these winter roads? On the way to you I see there is no problem except some extra cost but on the way back. I'm not a stranger to fixing electronic components and probably have the skills to change the caps myself but what I don't have is the time or the space. The garage is cold this time of the year.

Bottom line is the cost. Tell me what my options are as far as you repairing my 62725 with approx turnaround time. I will also look at cost of replacing the set with newer and hopefully better technology. Also if you want my set for parts and is is worth anything to you in it's current state. It has a Mitz 62875 base with the glass window and gloss black finish...

JackIf you want to email me directly, cabledude0461@yahoo.com. Im not sure we can or should discuss the details on the forum.
I have 3 2009 73 inch sets in my shop. All came in within a week. Same issue. Sounds like trouble starting early

I'm trying to extend the life of my chassis-rebuilt 52525 by putting the set on a timer, as I only watch it in the evenings, and when I need to watch it on weekends, I can tolerate waiting for the boot-up to complete if I want to watch it in the daytime. I figure that letting the capacitors discharge may keep it going longer before it goes BGLOD again. Every so often when the ambient temp is warm, it seems that the set will spontaneously reset, or even go into a red flashing status light, but cycling power is all that I need to bring it back.

Anyone else trying what I'm doing, or any negatives to my logic on this? Other than lamps (and discounted ones at that!), I don't see putting anymore money into this thing, but it still has a great picture.

I'm trying to extend the life of my chassis-rebuilt 52525 by putting the set on a timer, as I only watch it in the evenings, and when I need to watch it on weekends, I can tolerate waiting for the boot-up to complete if I want to watch it in the daytime. I figure that letting the capacitors discharge may keep it going longer before it goes BGLOD again. Every so often when the ambient temp is warm, it seems that the set will spontaneously reset, or even go into a red flashing status light, but cycling power is all that I need to bring it back.

Anyone else trying what I'm doing, or any negatives to my logic on this? Other than lamps (and discounted ones at that!), I don't see putting anymore money into this thing, but it still has a great picture.I agree with this. The damage to the caps seems to happen when the set is plugged in on standby more than a set that is used often.

Ok so I opened up my 62725 today to clean off the little mirror as i had one giant dust spot. while i had it opened i went ahead and took the lamp out. the first time i cleaned the mirror i checked the lamp and it had a residue built up on it that i was able to wipe off and it got rid of a ghost in the picture. So i was checking for that and it looked good and after some wiggling i got it back in. I get everything put back together and turn it back on...black screen...then lamp light turned solid red. I tried resetting twice and re-powering and it ended the same both ways. My assumption is I somehow messed up the lamp when I was handling it. and will have to replace it which i see them as low as $130 from Amazon. However I only spent $500 on the TV and its solid wood entertainment center total when i bought it from a guy i knew who was moving 3.5 years ago. SO...

Do I spend 130 and hope that fixed my problem and keep the big fella... OR do I invest in a new set? Or is there something else I can do? I dont really want to buy a new tv just yet because i got such a great deal on this set, but I also don't want to waste money on a solution that isn't going to last. Thoughts?

Do I spend 130 and hope that fixed my problem and keep the big fella... OR do I invest in a new set? Or is there something else I can do? I dont really want to buy a new tv just yet because i got such a great deal on this set, but I also don't want to waste money on a solution that isn't going to last. Thoughts?

Take the lamp out and make sure you haven't bent any of the contacts. I did that once and had to have a service call. Luckily it was covered by my extended warranty.

are you referring to the 2 connectors that slide into the 2 slows on the lamp that i assume give it power, or something else?

Yes. I accidently bent at least one of them when I tried to install a bulb.

K did you bend the piece on the tv or in the bulb? It looks like the piece in the TV swivels some. I don't know if that's normal or if I caused it. If I did cause it and its the broken TV, then a new lamp isn't going to do much more than lighten my wallet.

K did you bend the piece on the tv or in the bulb? It looks like the piece in the TV swivels some. I don't know if that's normal or if I caused it. If I did cause it and its the broken TV, then a new lamp isn't going to do much more than lighten my wallet.Look into where the lamp seats to be sure you did not push the connector in. If you did you will have to remove the rear cover to push it back on. This is a common problem when reinstalling a lamp.

Lamp no longer for sale. I have decided to have the TV's chassis rebuilt.

Hi, I have a 62525 with the BGLOD, the unit will come up with using the switch.
My question is
A. did anyone ever figure out exactly what causes this?
B. realistically is it worth changing out the bigger caps and just using the switch method?

Hi, I have a 62525 with the BGLOD, the unit will come up with using the switch.
My question is

A. did anyone ever figure out exactly what causes this?

I think that the general consensus is that before you do anything you need to get the Caps replaced. From what I understand if you have a BGLOD any issue with these Capacitors can only complicate fixing other problems until you rule them out.



B. realistically is it worth changing out the bigger caps and just using the switch method?

Well, I just went through the cost analysis for my situation. :mad:

I decided try to have mine fixed. If I replace my 62725 it seems I will need to buy another Mitz DLP to get anywhere near the same size picture (or larger) at a reasonable price. I bought my 62725 early on and I paid quite a bit of money for this 1080i state of the art TV. With the way prices are HDTV dropping and the technology is advancing I should be able to move up to a large LCD screen size in say about 12 months. Most of all I will not have another Mitz with exposure to the same issue.

The new LCDs rolled out in the CES in LV this month say that I need to put off purchasing a new TV as long as possible. YMWV. :D

Thanks for the reply.

I am just going to give it away and was wondering if I change the caps how long will it work using the switch method to defeat the BGLOD.

If it only lasts a couple of months, then I wouldn't bother at all :)

The new LCDs rolled out in the CES in LV this month say that I need to put off purchasing a new TV as long as possible. YMWV. :D

I have a brother who is of the same mindset as you. In reality, because of the ever changing technology and advancements, some will always say "... put off purchasing a new TV as long as possible." If I did that, I would never purchasing any electronic component.

I have a brother who is of the same mindset as you. In reality, because of the ever changing technology and advancements, some will always say "... put off purchasing a new TV as long as possible." If I did that, I would never purchasing any electronic component.

That is very true but put off purchasing, in my case, was just to get to availability of the newer products. Today the biggest 'affordable' LCD appears to be 65" and I would like just a little larger if it turns out to be so that Visio does the 73" for 20% less than I can buy a 65" today.

My biggest problem with this 62725 that I have now is the cost per year vs function by waiting just a few months or a year. I still have not got my 62725 fixed yet but I'm waiting for the service to be completed.

Jack

Great news! Thanks for the update, and let us know when you take delivery.

I'm sure you'll find that the 60737 is leaps and bounds better in picture quality compared to your 52525. I've had my 65737 just over a month now, and I'm still wowed by the picture.

I took delivery of the WD-60737 yesterday, and am very pleased with how responsive and accommodating Mits Consumer Relations was in resolving my case. Regarding the new set, I found initial setup to be very simple. Just plugged in the cables for the satellite receiver, over-air antenna, DVD player, etc., and everything worked like a champ. The factory brightness settings are blinding however, and had to be toned down some. I will miss not having media card slots and NetCommand, but having 1080P now will help make up for what it lacks. If anyone is interested in a 915P020010 lamp assembly with less than 50 hours on it, let me know via PM. I salvaged it from the 52525 before the shop picked up the set to scrap it. Thanks again for all the help. I'm looking forward to seeing the rest of the NFL playoffs in glorious HD. :)

jjb or anyone-

Have you seen the, as I can best explain it, "color streaks" in the 52725? I didn't notice them via component input but I had to switch to HDMI due to the wavy lines.
it almost seems like it has something to do with the color wheel and is most prevalent when viewing a recorded program or an on screen guide. It appears as a vertical "patch" towards the left-hand portion of the screen and is sometimes whitish in color....anyone? What could be causing this wonderful development?

I purchased my Mitsubishi wd 62725 five years ago and finally replaced the lamp a few months ago. There were these horizontal lines that scroll down the screen that now seem worse then ever before. I've also noticed these white patches that appear on spots occasionally on the screen. These patches appear and move briefly on the screen. Any ideas on how to fix these issues and also if it is worth it (the amount of frustration and despair I see in this thread I'm leaning towards not) would be appreciated. Thanks!

jjb or anyone-

Have you seen the, as I can best explain it, "color streaks" in the 52725? I didn't notice them via component input but I had to switch to HDMI due to the wavy lines.
it almost seems like it has something to do with the color wheel and is most prevalent when viewing a recorded program or an on screen guide. It appears as a vertical "patch" towards the left-hand portion of the screen and is sometimes whitish in color....anyone? What could be causing this wonderful development? It has to do with a analog to digital converter that is getting bad DC filtering. It is due to bad caps within the set. The reason you dont see it on HDMI is the digital is direct to the DMD board. All other inputs and the tuner will see the lines. The digital channels from the tuner will not. Good luck, JJB220

I purchased my Mitsubishi wd 62725 five years ago and finally replaced the lamp a few months ago. There were these horizontal lines that scroll down the screen that now seem worse then ever before. I've also noticed these white patches that appear on spots occasionally on the screen. These patches appear and move briefly on the screen. Any ideas on how to fix these issues and also if it is worth it (the amount of frustration and despair I see in this thread I'm leaning towards not) would be appreciated. Thanks!

If this is not caused by dust then it is a failing DMD board. They fail due to the intense UV from the lamp and ususaly happens after 2 full lengths of bulb life. 1 bulb @ 8,000 hours x 2 = 16,000 hours. Some more, some less. If you clean the mirrors and that does not solve it then its the DMD Do you think you would be capable of changing it? I have them available.

My Turd has been out since April 09. I have replaced all the caps and it came back for a while in April. But after the second power outage due to storms I could not bring it back. I was thinking about getting the 65737 because it will fit in the same space as the 62725. Why I want another Mitsushi##y is due to size for the buck and it fits. Any way I looked in here the other night as I had saved the link. Then I read Rodoid's Post # 5837 and thought OK I'll try that to. Shazzam the POS is up again. I gave $3999 for this TV (about selling price for 82" now )and don't even watch it that much, ( still on first bulb ) but it sure was going to pain me to stick in the attack. This dude Rondiod is a freaking genius, or at least for now. Thanks much for posting your discovery. For anyone else who has BGLOD, give this a shot, it worked for me. And if you have done your caps, this is easy. You don't have to disconnect everything, just enough to slide out the engine. Take the side heat shield off the power board side (left) and snip the 3rd wire left to right. Put the on/off switch in a let it rip. I just ran the 2 wires out the side cab vents and tucked them around the front under the bottom panel. Can't see them. This discovery should have it's own thread. If I had not seen someone say the switch hack I would not have searched for it.

Anybody need a lamp?

I have one for my set. I bought two when it was time to replace the bulb and the TV has since died on me.

I really really want to make a you tube video of this TV being dropped off of a building.
Does the lamp have the housing or just the bare bulb?
Assume it is for a wd xx525 or 725.
My model number is WD 52725.

Reply directly with your price idea.

Thanks,

Mark

markwalker52@hotmail.com

So from reading, a solid red light is the lamp light, but I had the old spare bulb that worked, put it in and still get the same light... Both lamps look fine. So, my next step should be to look for and replace all the bad caps on the board?

Any posts in here about cap replacement and where the board is? I'm checking

She lives!

Replaced all smts on dm and fmt board, and the three clusters of four 1000uF/16V local supply caps (fmt, pwr, dm), and also the two 3300uf/10V caps on the pwr supply board. It looks to be back to normal, though I haven't done a thorough checkout.

For those it may help in the future, here's my recap.
My set worked/was working fine for four years, except for slight wavy line distortion on analog inputs. At 5000 hours, set illuminated the 'lamp' led to orange. Extended warranty company send a new bulb. To make sure the new bulb was actually good, I replaced the still working original, with the intention of keeping it as a backup. My set sat without AC power until I installed the new bulb. That's when the set failed. When I tried to power it on, I got no pic, but had sound. The lamp led was still orange, and from experience I knew the set was asking if I had changed the lamp? I entered 'exit' for no, and the lamp led turned red and the set shut off. It became unresponsive to remote/front panel button commands. I hit the reset button and got the BGLOD. Unplugging it got me past the BGLOD, but attempts to power up were met with the red lamp indicator. Error message/sequence was 34, lamp abnormality.

Visual inspection found only four bulging caps, all were the 1000uF/16V, two on the pwr supply board, and two on the dm. All power supply board caps were pulled and checked, and all but the bulging ones checked ok for capacitance and esr. But I did the massive cap replacement anyway, upgradiing everything where possible. Hopefully it will last another 4-5 years for whoever gets it next.

Is there a guide in here somewhere that shows what type of caps to use? Where the board is or how to take the board/s out? Having the same issue.

It has to do with a analog to digital converter that is getting bad DC filtering. It is due to bad caps within the set. The reason you dont see it on HDMI is the digital is direct to the DMD board. All other inputs and the tuner will see the lines. The digital channels from the tuner will not. Good luck, JJB220

So what you're saying is that I have a green light to show the wife your expert opinion so I can get that new plasma from Panasonic? How much do I owe you?

If this is not caused by dust then it is a failing DMD board. They fail due to the intense UV from the lamp and ususaly happens after 2 full lengths of bulb life. 1 bulb @ 8,000 hours x 2 = 16,000 hours. Some more, some less. If you clean the mirrors and that does not solve it then its the DMD Do you think you would be capable of changing it? I have them available.

Is cleaning the mirrors going to possibly lead to more problems? I am a little apprehensive after reading some posts and seeing how fixing 1 issue lead to another. If not how would I do it and what do I use to clean it? Thanks.

Is cleaning the mirrors going to possibly lead to more problems? I am a little apprehensive after reading some posts and seeing how fixing 1 issue lead to another. If not how would I do it and what do I use to clean it? Thanks.
cleaning the lower internal mirror should not lead to other problems.

check page 95 for cleaning directions by Spiff.

also page 141 post 4222 with directions and pics by ironhorse.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=444566&page=141&pp=30

most issues are with the capacitors and when short term fixes such as only replacing a few caps still leads to future issues because so many other caps are in need of replacement.

Thanks! I'll give it a shot and let you know.

Alright, I searched but likely failed.

I have a wd-52525 that recently has developed green and purple lines across the screen after the tv has wamred up. It's fine when I first turn the tv on, but after 5-10 minutes the lines appear. They are vertical for the most park then move to diagonal. I can still see the image behind the lines and for the most part it's watchable, but it's driving me nuts.

I will get a picture and upload it soon. But does anyone have ideas?

If it's the caps, which caps should I look for?

I'll also download the manuals over lunch and look at them.

I've had this set for about 4 years and bought it used.

EDIT: I just checked and the lamp has about 4800 hours on it if that makes a difference. No lamp light or anything though.
thanks

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg115/subadrew99/wd52525.jpg

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg115/subadrew99/wd52525-2.jpg

OK. I cleaned the mirrors, now how long is the green timer light going to blink for?

BLOD=blinking light of death? I've seen this throughout this thread, is that what it means?

Light is still blinking, any ideas? Any help is appreciated.

Light is still blinking, any ideas? Any help is appreciated.
this is definitely a bad electrical chassis (Blown Caps). If you are the original owner, you can have a service tech come out and verify the defective chassis then complain to Mits. They have been giving concessions to cover the part cost but you will probably have to pay for labor and service call. Otherwise you can try to replace all of the blown caps yourself. Sometimes it seems to be more than just blown caps. 50/50 chance.

[QUOTE=bmw528is;17967803]So what you're saying is that I have a green light to show the wife your expert opinion so I can get that new plasma from Panasonic? How much do I owe you?[/QUOTE
You dont owe a thing because you will need it for the Pannasonic.

Light is still blinking, any ideas? Any help is appreciated. Yes BGLOD is what you see. That means there are bad caps in your set and you must have unplugged it to work on it. At this point ( and im fairly sure of this) you have a bad DMD board and a failing chassis. The BGLOD is from several failed caps and the white dots on the screen is the DLP chip on the DMD board that would need to be replaced together to be sure of a proper repair. If you can do the work yourself this can be fixed for a few dollars. If you cannot then the set is done. Good luck. Thanks, John

Alright, I searched but likely failed.

I have a wd-52525 that recently has developed green and purple lines across the screen after the tv has wamred up. It's fine when I first turn the tv on, but after 5-10 minutes the lines appear. They are vertical for the most park then move to diagonal. I can still see the image behind the lines and for the most part it's watchable, but it's driving me nuts.

I will get a picture and upload it soon. But does anyone have ideas?

If it's the caps, which caps should I look for?

I'll also download the manuals over lunch and look at them.

I've had this set for about 4 years and bought it used.

EDIT: I just checked and the lamp has about 4800 hours on it if that makes a difference. No lamp light or anything though.
thanks

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg115/subadrew99/wd52525.jpg

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg115/subadrew99/wd52525-2.jpg

It has bad caps. Use the HDMI untill it quits. They will need to be replaced soon.

Yes BGLOD is what you see. That means there are bad caps in your set and you must have unplugged it to work on it. At this point ( and im fairly sure of this) you have a bad DMD board and a failing chassis. The BGLOD is from several failed caps and the white dots on the screen is the DLP chip on the DMD board that would need to be replaced together to be sure of a proper repair. If you can do the work yourself this can be fixed for a few dollars. If you cannot then the set is done. Good luck. Thanks, John

Is it bad to unplug it while you work on it? Why? I actually got it to work again using the old on off trick (unplugged it and plugged it back in) and it came back.

this is definitely a bad electrical chassis (Blown Caps). If you are the original owner, you can have a service tech come out and verify the defective chassis then complain to Mits. They have been giving concessions to cover the part cost but you will probably have to pay for labor and service call. Otherwise you can try to replace all of the blown caps yourself. Sometimes it seems to be more than just blown caps. 50/50 chance.

How bad is the beating for the service call and is it worth it at this point? I am the original owner so they may help me.

Is it bad to unplug it while you work on it? Why? I actually got it to work again using the old on off trick (unplugged it and plugged it back in) and it came back.

Please do unplug it when you are working on it. It's dangerous enough with the large capacitors in the power supply, but you don't need to be working on a live circuit, ever.

Cycling power to reset the BGLOD will only delay the inevitable. You can follow the directions in this thread to replace some of the capacitors, but there are hundreds of surface mounted capacitors that may need to be replaced also Calling Mitsubishi customer service is your first step, and they will ask you to get a authorized service center to diagnose and remove the chassis. You will pay for the labor for the ASC, (probably 1-2 hours) but Mitsubishi should overhaul the chassis for a set cost. My chassis overhaul was covered by an extended warranty, but I think I've seen the total cost to be around $300-400.

Is it bad to unplug it while you work on it? Why? I actually got it to work again using the old on off trick (unplugged it and plugged it back in) and it came back.It isnt bad to do and I recomend it but you take the risk of it not working again when the caps are worn. Good to see its working again.

anyone got any idea for my tv? (pics above)

Please do unplug it when you are working on it. It's dangerous enough with the large capacitors in the power supply, but you don't need to be working on a live circuit, ever.

Cycling power to reset the BGLOD will only delay the inevitable. You can follow the directions in this thread to replace some of the capacitors, but there are hundreds of surface mounted capacitors that may need to be replaced also Calling Mitsubishi customer service is your first step, and they will ask you to get a authorized service center to diagnose and remove the chassis. You will pay for the labor for the ASC, (probably 1-2 hours) but Mitsubishi should overhaul the chassis for a set cost. My chassis overhaul was covered by an extended warranty, but I think I've seen the total cost to be around $300-400.

Would getting this done be spending good money after bad? Has anyone else done this and had it work out?

anyone got any idea for my tv? (pics above)If I know these TVs, the SMD caps are weak. It will need a chassis rebuild. Are you inclined to replace the caps yourself?

Would getting this done be spending good money after bad? Has anyone else done this and had it work out?I have done over 100 of these chassis rebuilds and I dont have a single return. I see lots of people complain about their repairs not lasting a year but there may be another reason for the failure.

If I know these TVs, the SMD caps are weak. It will need a chassis rebuild. Are you inclined to replace the caps yourself?

I'd rather attempt to replace them myself then spend $300+ for warranty or someone else to. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and if I get some good enough instructions I'm pretty sure I can take it on.

I tried to watch a movie last night and the lines owuld drive me nuts. There were moments where the picture was clear, but then the lines would appear again.

thanks

Our 62725 was retired yesterday in favor of a new WD65C9. It had been a faithful servant since December 24, 2004 with but one dead fan (down for a week) in late 2007.

But lately the "wavey line" problem was starting to appear, and when it did appear it didn't always go away after the set warmed up as it did when it first started appearing. And then there were some pretty darn nice sales on the 2009s, and so rather than wait for the set to die the final death and then have to scramble for a new TV, we decided to buy now while we liked the Super Bowl sales.

We are sending the 62725 to a farm in the country where it can roam free forever.

Well, almost. We are sending it to a farm in the country. . . a hobby-farm owned by a television engineer who likes to tinker with old hardware and who will see what he can do about "curing" it and continuing to use it.

My goodness but the blacks, brightness, and colors on the 2009s are just "wow" better. 5 years of advancements really can make a big difference in the early years of a technology.

I'd rather attempt to replace them myself then spend $300+ for warranty or someone else to. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and if I get some good enough instructions I'm pretty sure I can take it on.

I tried to watch a movie last night and the lines owuld drive me nuts. There were moments where the picture was clear, but then the lines would appear again. thanks

it will only get worse as the various caps degrade more and more.

many owners have spent a little money on a few caps that are the normal culprits and gotten their Mits WD-52/62x25 repaired but it usually is only a short term fix.

Your money your choice......

IF you do want to spend the money the $2-300 is for the labor charge to pull and replace the electrical chassis by your local mits authorized service center/tech. They send the chassis into Mits' national service center for a complete rebuild. Over 100+ caps/parts are replaced and you get it back with a one year replacement warranty from Mits.

Just had the BLOD (green power light blinks fast) problem with my 62725. Funny thing was, I noticed that I lost power sometime yesterday before coming home to find my TV like this. Been calling Mitsi Cust. Service as well as there service ctrs for my area. Getting some different info. Mits admitted that a worse case scenario would be a chassis rebuild. Said I would be down 3 weeks waiting for the repair. But when I called the service centers they recommended, one wouldn't price quote me at all and the other said it could be 6-8 weeks with only a 30 day warranty and a 25% chance that that wouldn't fix it. They also said it was probably in the $800 range :eek:

So does the above sound accurate? If so I should probably look at a new set. What are the chances that it could be something simple and a lot cheaper to fix.

I have both a 73833 and a 62525 and when the technician came to my house to fix my 73833 (under warranty) and I asked about the 62525. He said, if it breaks don't even bother fixing it because it wouldn't last and would cost too much. Take that for what it's worth but I guess he's seen a lot of the ***25 models to know what he's talking about. Mine is still working fine after more than 5 years (knock on wood). I've just had to clean the mirrors and change the lamp.

Just had the BLOD (green power light blinks fast) problem with my 62725. Funny thing was, I noticed that I lost power sometime yesterday before coming home to find my TV like this. Been calling Mitsi Cust. Service as well as there service ctrs for my area. Getting some different info. Mits admitted that a worse case scenario would be a chassis rebuild. Said I would be down 3 weeks waiting for the repair. But when I called the service centers they recommended, one wouldn't price quote me at all and the other said it could be 6-8 weeks with only a 30 day warranty and a 25% chance that that wouldn't fix it. They also said it was probably in the $800 range :eek:

So does the above sound accurate? If so I should probably look at a new set. What are the chances that it could be something simple and a lot cheaper to fix.

the local shops usually put alot of padded estimate for the repair time. mits was having long turn around times on the chassis rebuilds but it does seem to be better.

The $800 estimate would be in the range to pick up the entire tab. But mits pays for the chassis rebuild so you would actually only pay for the service centers labor charges to pull and replace the chassis. my service center charged 4 "book rate" hours at $62.50/Hr and listed the chassis at $450 plus taxes and a pick up/diagnose/return fee and my original estimate was a little over $800.

The 30 day warranty would be from the service center but the one year warranty will be offered to you from Mits directly. Yes there is no 100% guarantee a chassis rebuild will work, there have been a few owners here in the threads that got rebuilds that did not work or repair the problems and mits gave them new replacement sets.

for the $800 no it's not worth it........ but again your money your choice, for the ~$2-300 and you get it fixed with a one year replacement warranty directly from mits it's worth considering.

the local shops usually put alot of padded estimate for the repair time. mits was having long turn around times on the chassis rebuilds but it does seem to be better.

The $800 estimate would be in the range to pick up the entire tab. But mits pays for the chassis rebuild so you would actually only pay for the service centers labor charges to pull and replace the chassis. my service center charged 4 "book rate" hours at $62.50/Hr and listed the chassis at $450 plus taxes and a pick up/diagnose/return fee and my original estimate was a little over $800.

The 30 day warranty would be from the service center but the one year warranty will be offered to you from Mits directly. Yes there is no 100% guarantee a chassis rebuild will work, there have been a few owners here in the threads that got rebuilds that did not work or repair the problems and mits gave them new replacement sets.

for the $800 no it's not worth it........ but again your money your choice, for the ~$2-300 and you get it fixed with a one year replacement warranty directly from mits it's worth considering.

Thanks for the info. So are you saying that if I pulled the chassis out myself and shipped it directly to Mits (thereby eliminating the middle man), the cost then would be 2-300 dollars to fix it? Versus $800 to go thru a service center.

As a long time lurker on this thread it is now time to move on. My wd-62825 was starting to show some of the capacitor issues so I called Mits service who gave me the usual offer to pick up the cost of the parts and I would pay for labor. To make a long story short after two dm modules and a light engine failed to fix the issue Mits offered me a wd-65837 as a replacement at no cost. Needless to say I took there offer and received the new tv yesterday. I am now a very happy camper. I have to give Mits some props for doing this for a tv that was long out of warranty. Thanks to everyone for all the great advice in this thread.

Thanks for the info. So are you saying that if I pulled the chassis out myself and shipped it directly to Mits (thereby eliminating the middle man), the cost then would be 2-300 dollars to fix it? Versus $800 to go thru a service center.

No. Mits requires you go through a Mits Authorized Service Center ASC to get the electrical chassis rebuild/repair done.

You pay the labor charges of your local Mits ASC diagnosing/pulling/replacing the electrical chassis.

My estimate was over $800 but the final bill for my WD-62525 repair listed the electrical chassis rebuild cost as No Charge so I was only charged for the 4 "book rate" hours to do the labor plus tax.

you get your WD-52/62x25 diagnosed with the capacitor /electrical chassis problems by the local Mits ASC.
You contact Mits at 1-800-332-2119 Ext #8, that should get you a rep in the Mits California headquarters.
Mits gets your info and ask you to fax in the diagnosis and your sales/purchase receipt.
Mits usually gets back to you within 1 day and tell you they will cover the parts/rebuild cost and you cover the labor charges.
If you agree Mits contacts the ASC and the repair process continues.........
If timing goes well it takes ~3 weeks and you get your set back repaired.
Mits will send you a letter stating they give you a one year warranty on your set.

I seem to have fixed the BGLOD that i was having but now the green light turns on, stays on, but i get no picture or sound at all. I checked the 12v on the power board when the TV is "on" and it is totally dead. also, there is NO voltage running to the lamp ballast what so ever. its like its not getting the enable or anything to turn on the bulb.

this is after getting the tv to work from completely dead...getting wavy ass pink lines.....changing some smt caps from the PowerPoint file from tbully....after that the tv would try to turn on and the lamp indicator would pop on after like 2 seconds. its a brand new bulb. So i changed some more caps, and i am afraid i screwed something horribly. now the TV acts like its going to work, but you never get to hear the satisfying click that turns on the lamp and all that stuff. Also there is no voltage to the lamp or ballast thing..

Help is appreciated. Ive actually spent hours searching this thread for hours and cant find anything similar.

Well, I got my 52725 back from the repair shop 2 weeks ago after it had been sent to Mitsu in NJ for the 2nd time since Sept for a chassis rebuild and guess what.....
2 days ago I went downstairs to where the TV is now and there it was. The blinking light of death. I rebooted and it came back on. This AM I went down and there it was again. Came home from work and did a power cycle reboot and the TV came on. Went out and walked the dog for about 15 min. Came back in and it was off with the blinking light again. This time rebooting didn't work.
Called Mitsu and they will have the repair shop pick it up again and do a diagnostic.

Well in the worst case, I get it out of my house for free and start looking for something to replace it.

It had bee relegated to the "family room" since we got a nice Samsung 52 inch lcd last spring

I seem to have fixed the BGLOD that i was having but now the green light turns on, stays on, but i get no picture or sound at all. I checked the 12v on the power board when the TV is "on" and it is totally dead. also, there is NO voltage running to the lamp ballast what so ever. its like its not getting the enable or anything to turn on the bulb.

this is after getting the tv to work from completely dead...getting wavy ass pink lines.....changing some smt caps from the PowerPoint file from tbully....after that the tv would try to turn on and the lamp indicator would pop on after like 2 seconds. its a brand new bulb. So i changed some more caps, and i am afraid i screwed something horribly. now the TV acts like its going to work, but you never get to hear the satisfying click that turns on the lamp and all that stuff. Also there is no voltage to the lamp or ballast thing..

Help is appreciated. Ive actually spent hours searching this thread for hours and cant find anything similar.

Obvious answer but...check your work.

Make sure your SMTs weren't put in backwards. It's easy to do on accident. If you're lucky you may just have to replace the "reversed" caps. Also, as you know, there are a lot of connectors (and a few ribbon cables), make sure they are all connected firmly and to the right location.

You can also check the PWB for blown surface mount fuses. (I don't recall the exact locations)

Good luck. I feel your pain...been there.

okay. the ribbon's may be my problem. when i was fixing a board my big ass knelt down and on the way down my ass cought the DM board and FMT board that were sitting behind me and down they went. upon inspection, 4 caps had broken off (through hole caps). replaced those and well same old green light, no flashing. TV just gets no voltage to the lamp.

well the real question of this post is, What is the main purpose of the gold ribbon that is all by itself going between the 2 top boards. When the boards fell it looks like i could have torn one of the lil tiny ass connections on it but could that be preventing the ballast from getting any voltage at all. Thanks again Tbully. hopefully i get this tv done because my English Setter jsut gave birth to 8 more setters about 5 weeks ago and i need my dining room back for them to run around in as to the 6x8x3' box i built for em is way over grown.

okay. the ribbon's may be my problem. when i was fixing a board my big ass knelt down and on the way down my ass cought the DM board and FMT board that were sitting behind me and down they went. upon inspection, 4 caps had broken off (through hole caps). replaced those and well same old green light, no flashing. TV just gets no voltage to the lamp.

well the real question of this post is, What is the main purpose of the gold ribbon that is all by itself going between the 2 top boards. When the boards fell it looks like i could have torn one of the lil tiny ass connections on it but could that be preventing the ballast from getting any voltage at all. Thanks again Tbully. hopefully i get this tv done because my English Setter jsut gave birth to 8 more setters about 5 weeks ago and i need my dining room back for them to run around in as to the 6x8x3' box i built for em is way over grown.I have some experience in repairing failed self repairs and what I see is torn or damaged ribbon cables or wrongly installed caps blowing SMD fuses in the power supply. Each board has a sub power supply and SMD fuses. Sometimes the fuses blow and the work is good. You said you had a few caps ripped off from the board? That cant be good. Good luck, John

i have a 52725 on the second lamp and no issues thus far and would like to know if it's even worth getting it fixed if something happens to it. I cleaned the mirror and all the dust and made the picture better but i figured with no issues i didn't renew my main warranty. i didn't renew it last year or the year before and still have my warranty thing thru Frys up til August this year.

I’ve tried to search and read through almost 7,000 posts but feel I need to ask anyway.

I think I finally have the BGLOD. In the morning, the set has a rapid blinking green light. Unplugging and re-plugging works. This occurred once, then a second time, but seems to be happening more frequently now (apprx. Once per week). My 62725 was purchased 5.5 years ago w/ a 5 year extended warranty. I have no other problems (wavy lines, spots, etc.) at this time and have never done anything to the set other than replacing the lamp (on my 3rd now), and cleaning.

My questions:
1) Is the underlying BGLOD problem related to the bad caps problem?
2) Will the “Switch Hack” alone actually fix the BGLOD?
3) Any suggestions for a replacement in the 65” range? I really don't think I want to go down the board fix route.

TomTx,

Yes, the BGLOD is due to bad caps, which means that the Switch Hack will only delay the inevitable. The bad caps cause the internal boards from communicating, and so the light blinks as the chassis tries to boot.

lol caps ripped off the board= very bad. but no. lol one of the 1000uf 16v caps in the lil groups of 4 caps on that board....one of its legs broke, so i soldered in a brand new one.

lol caps ripped off the board= very bad. but no. lol one of the 1000uf 16v caps in the lil groups of 4 caps on that board....one of its legs broke, so i soldered in a brand new one.

How did you do on the repair?

The blinking green light of death is now the blinking for 30 seconds, turns off, and turns solid when power is pushed. New problem i have created when i dropped the board and maybe ripped the ribbon (like one 1 on it) is that it pretends its gunna work perfectly great but the ballast never turns on and i have no voltage to the lamp ballast

The blinking green light of death is now the blinking for 30 seconds, turns off, and turns solid when power is pushed. New problem i have created when i dropped the board and maybe ripped the ribbon (like one 1 on it) is that it pretends its gunna work perfectly great but the ballast never turns on and i have no voltage to the lamp ballast Did you check to see if the ribbon cable is bad? Did you check any SMD fuses? They are small white blocks. Here is a website to show what they look like. My bet is one has failed.
http://ph.farnell.com/littelfuse/0451001-mrl/fuse-quick-blow-smd-1a/dp/9922164?in_merch=true&MER=i-e1a0-00001072

no i have not checked any smd fuses. is there a seperate one for each voltage check point on the power board? i ask because almost all the points give the correct voltage except one of the 12v (i think , havnt messed with it for a few days so i can be wrong) or 13.3v is totally dead. nothing at all. How exactly do i check if they are blown or not.

and i will try to test the ribbon. I think i know how to...maybe.

How exactly do i check the smd fuses. Set the meter to continuity and just one on each side. or does the thing backtrack itself through the board? IE. do i need to remove them from the board to check them. Also, what are the green resistor looking things near the PS plug (i think its ps) If you can check those while on the board then im positive one is bad.

I have a mitsubishi wd 60735. When I go in to change color, brightness, contrast, and the rest it doesn't seem to save the settings. When I turn the tv off and back on again the setting go back to default which really sucks because I have to keep changing the setting back to my preference. Any help any one please??????

I have the 52825 and have the BGLOD and replaced the caps on the dm and power board,and still didnt fix it..On the test points on the power board im not getting a reading on TP5v,TP3.3v,TP12v,and TP10v,all the others are reading fine..Does anyone know what might be the culprit? Thanks so much and if someone can help me out id be more than happy to send a few bucks to ya..Thanks again!!

The culprit is a couple of hundred other bad caps in most cases. Anyone who bothers trying to fix these sets is just going to end up getting back into it repeatedly. Just by a rebuild chassis from Mits for a couple hundred bucks and let them deal with rebuilding them.

The culprit is a couple of hundred other bad caps in most cases. Anyone who bothers trying to fix these sets is just going to end up getting back into it repeatedly. Just by a rebuild chassis from Mits for a couple hundred bucks and let them deal with rebuilding them.

Don't count on it working. My chasis has been sent backtwice since the end of Sept. Got it back 3 weeks ago and by last Friday it flashing again. I'd reboot it by unplugging it. It would come back on, but within 15 minutes shut itself off again.:confused::mad:

Don't count on it working. My chasis has been sent backtwice since the end of Sept. Got it back 3 weeks ago and by last Friday it flashing again. I'd reboot it by unplugging it. It would come back on, but within 15 minutes shut itself off again.:confused::mad:

I thought that if it failed again during the warranty they would replace it witha new DLP?

Jack

Don't count on it working. My chasis has been sent backtwice since the end of Sept. Got it back 3 weeks ago and by last Friday it flashing again. I'd reboot it by unplugging it. It would come back on, but within 15 minutes shut itself off again.:confused::mad:

Mitsubishi has a warranty on the rebuilt chassis. IIRC it is 6 months. We have had about 90% success with them. OTOH, every set that we changed caps in (some as many as several dozen) has come back with the same or other problems eventually. The point is that the problems with the caps are so pervasive that unless you are going to change hundreds, you will likely see other problems. The rebuild chassis from Mitsubishi is the highest probability solution for these sets, and the most cost effectve, if your time is worth more than minimum wage. Mitsubishi has also replaced sets for clients that have had repeated problems. I don't know if they still will, since some of these sets are over 5 years old, but one should always ask for accomodation from customer relations when one has extensive problems.

se sets, and the most cost effectve, if your time is worth more than minimum wage. Mitsubishi has also replaced sets for clients that have had repeated problems. I don't know if they still will, since some of these sets are over 5 years old, .

I've made multiple calls to Mitsu and keep getting the run around. My service center here in Rochester NY has also had problems. Mitsu keeps asking them to fax diagnostic reports. They have done so multiple times. My extended warranty was up last Sept, but since the problem started before it was, they have issued 1 recall already and apparently will do so again. At this point, I just want to get rid of the set. If Mitsu only want to replace it with a larger dlp I'll leave it in the box and see if I can sell it. A 52 inch is the largest that will fit where it is in the house.
Luckily, it is only a back up TV and sits in our downstairs family room. We replaced it in the living room with a Samsung lcd last spring.

Well, now I did it. 52725, manufactured in '04. Replaced the bulb about a year ago. Recently I've been getting some weird video noise (bands of static), so I decided to tear my baby apart and have a look. Other than being totally filthy inside, everything looked good. Believe it or not I couldn't find a single swollen cap, let alone any that were leaking. So I went about my business and reassembled everything. Demated all my connectors and cleaned all the contacts before reconnecting.

Finally got it all together, and now I have the BGLOD. Must have missed a connection in there somewhere, though I can't imagine how. Stranger things have happened.

Guess I get to tear it apart again.

**UPDATE**
Well, took it all apart. Only thing I found was that one of my ribbon cables wasn't completely seated. It also looked like I crimped it on one side (must've pulled on it when fighting to get everything back together). Reassembled, and there was the BGLOD again. Thought I was going to have to hunt down a new ribbon cable. Let it sit for a few hours, came home, and it was still blinking. A quick reset, and whaddaya know...everything seems to work again.

Still have a fairly poor picture with random video noise, so all my work was for naught. Now I just gotta figure out whats really wrong.

**UPDATE PART DEUX**
BGLOD is back. Turned off the TV to put everything back together. Had to remove the filter cover, which triggered that switch (had a flashing orange light then). Got it all back together and the damned green light is there mocking me.

**UPDATE TRES**
Cannot get this damned thing to fire up. Wondering if that damaged ribbon cable may have an intermittent short or something. I'd like to replace it, just to check. Unfortunately, I can't figure out what the part number is (let alone a place to order it).

Can anyone help? It's the white one at the middle bottom of the pcb.

http://homepage.mac.com/elehto/.Pictures/Mits.jpg

**UPDATE**
After sitting all night with the BGLOD, another restart this morning and the set fired up. Been running strong for half an hour now. Fingers crossed.

Interesting support for that chassis. It might be a good read for the engineers at Mitsubishi.

Interesting support for that chassis. It might be a good read for the engineers at Mitsubishi.

Nice!

Just bought a 62725 made in jan 05. Just put an ad on craigslist looking for broken mitsubishi's and got about ten people calling me back so far. most of them are smoking crack with their prices but the 62725 sold it to me for 100 bucks, only problem was the light. Came with brand new in the package bulb and bulb holder, one broken bulb and bulb holder, and the brand new bulb in the tv with bulb holder. Did the quick fix with the switch and tv works perfectly now.

My question is....do yall think i should swap boards on my 52825 one by one starting with the pwb board. just to find out what board it is that i need to fix or...leave it alone

my projection tv lasted 10 years the screen started turning counter clockwise i bought the dlp the bulb went after 1 year no warenty the second bulb is still going after 2 years plus but i am not happy with the picture i see i need to clean the mirror im looking for how to do that now

About two weeks before super bowl sunday, we got the BGLOD when my 5 year old grandson went into the family room and started punching buttons on the TV while it was on. Apparently he tried to change channels but he hit the power button on and off and the set went berserk. We Mits owners all know that you can't power on and off unless you wait at least 15 minutes to be safe!!! :eek:

Called a local Mits authorized service guy and he came out, looked at fleashing LED and said its either the power supply or the DM board. He said he had two new power supplies due in soon from Mits and it would be $250 to swap. Also said if it was DM board the set had to go to his shop and then I guess he sends the chassis back to Mits where they rebuild it for $500. But you get a 90 day warranty... big deal. So he goes away.

A week later I notice the set isn't flashing so I power it on (it was still plugged in) and it works just fine. We watch the super bowl and everything seems normal. The tech calls back and tells me he has PS, and I tell him the set is working again. He says its just a matter of time, it will go again because it's a bad design or something like that.

This weekend, we have 14 people up for the holiday weekend and of course, a bunch of kids, and they come in and say the TV isn't working. I go inside and the LED is flashing again. I'm at my wits end now, because we google this and find this GLOD is a result of poor chassis design and hundreds of folks have had this problem. There are also dozens of suggested "fixes" that include secret on-off sequences, adding DPDT switches, and so on.

What do I do? Does Mitsubishi eat the cost of the parts needed to fix this set, and do they upgrade the capacitors so the problem doesn't repeat itself? Would I be better off trying to fix it with one of the suggested fixes, or maybe have John down in Haddam fix it? Its a 62725 and I paid a small fortune )over $4200) for it with a 4-year warranty (long over) in Nov 2004. Should I have the tech try his "new" power supply... a $250 crap shoot? What do I do?

I would rather not spend $2000 on a new set that will fit our TV stand/bookshelf arrangement. I'd need a 60" to 65" flat screen, and a decent one (120 Hz) will run $2500-$3000 and a 240Hz would run almost double!

UPDATE: Feb 16, 2010 - Walked over to the set tonight (its been blinking since Sunday as noted above. Decided to try the reset and hold down the power button for 2 minutes. Damn thing blinked for almost the whole 2 minutes then went out. Crossed my fingers and pressed power, and it's working again.:confused: Watched TV for a couple of hours, turned it off and no blinking LED. Now I know something is wrong, I just don't know how bad it is.

my projection tv lasted 10 years the screen started turning counter clockwise i bought the dlp the bulb went after 1 year no warenty the second bulb is still going after 2 years plus but i am not happy with the picture i see i need to clean the mirror im looking for how to do that now

Mark... I posted a pretty detailed "HOW-TO" on cleaning the DLPs a few years ago, here's the link:

CLEANING YOUR MITSUBISHI DLP MIRRORS (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10226485#post10226485)

Mark... I posted a pretty detailed "HOW-TO" on cleaning the DLPs a few years ago, here's the link:

CLEANING YOUR MITSUBISHI DLP MIRRORS (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10226485#post10226485)

I have asked for some instructions on the **833's as well but have received no responses. Is it not necessary to clean the mirrors on the later models?

I have asked for some instructions on the **833's as well but have received no responses. Is it not necessary to clean the mirrors on the later models?

I posted the instructions that should be good for all DLPs, but frankly I haven't even seen a **833 so I can't be sure. But look at your set and compare it to my photo-how-to and maybe it'd be worthwhile learning how to open up your set and take a look. You will be AMAZED if there's dust in there and you clean it properly. The clean mirror picture quality will improve visibly over a dusty one. I've received dozens and dozens of PMs from members who have used my photo-guide and they all went nuts when they saw the results. Probably forgot how good the set looked new. LOL:D

Mike

........Called a local Mits authorized service guy and he came out, looked at fleashing LED and said its either the power supply or the DM board. He said he had two new power supplies due in soon from Mits and it would be $250 to swap. Also said if it was DM board the set had to go to his shop and then I guess he sends the chassis back to Mits where they rebuild it for $500. But you get a 90 day warranty... big deal. So he goes away.

A week later I notice the set isn't flashing so I power it on (it was still plugged in) and it works just fine. We watch the super bowl and everything seems normal. The tech calls back and tells me he has PS, and I tell him the set is working again. He says its just a matter of time, it will go again because it's a bad design or something like that.

This weekend, we have 14 people up for the holiday weekend and of course, a bunch of kids, and they come in and say the TV isn't working. I go inside and the LED is flashing again. I'm at my wits end now, because we google this and find this GLOD is a result of poor chassis design and hundreds of folks have had this problem. There are also dozens of suggested "fixes" that include secret on-off sequences, adding DPDT switches, and so on.

What do I do? Does Mitsubishi eat the cost of the parts needed to fix this set, and do they upgrade the capacitors so the problem doesn't repeat itself? Would I be better off trying to fix it with one of the suggested fixes, or maybe have John down in Haddam fix it? Its a 62725 and I paid a small fortune )over $4200) for it with a 4-year warranty (long over) in Nov 2004. Should I have the tech try his "new" power supply... a $250 crap shoot? What do I do?

........

Ironhorse. first thanks again for the clean mirror write up with pics. i've pointed many WD-62/52x25 owners to it. very helpful.

sounds very normal that your starting to get the bad capacitor/electrical chassis issues. so many of them going bad or degrading that it causes many varied issues with these sets. and yes it should only get worse. skip his power supply suggestion for now......

IF you want to put $2-300 into getting it fixed just follow my basic list in post 6932 on the previous page 232. No quick fixes or tricks, you go through Mits directly and have the best chance of a good repair.

they do not put in upgraded parts but they do replace over 100+ different caps/parts and that gives you the best chance for it lasting and Mits will directly give you a one year warranty.

You pay the $2-300 in labor charges to the local Mits repair shop and Mits covers the rebuild/parts cost.

I had the red light lamp error for my WD 52725. I used this repair kit
servicemanuals.vstore.ca/product_info.php/pName/mitsubishi-v26-dlp-power-pwb-repair-kit/cName/repair-kits
I soldered all the caps in today and the TV turned back on. Now it has the purple and greenish lines going across the screen in various widths and directions. I have my 360 and cable going through the component inputs. I read that if you use the HDMI input that problem will go away.
The lines do not appear on an input with nothing attached as well as on the onscreen menu.
Can someone tell me that caps that need to be replaced if needed or another solution to this problem? Thanks

Ironhorse. first thanks again for the clean mirror write up with pics. i've pointed many WD-62/52x25 owners to it. very helpful.

IF you want to put $2-300 into getting it fixed just follow my basic list in post 6932 on the previous page 232. No quick fixes or tricks, you go through Mits directly and have the best chance of a good repair.

they do not put in upgraded parts but they do replace over 100+ different caps/parts and that gives you the best chance for it lasting and Mits will directly give you a one year warranty.

You pay the $2-300 in labor charges to the local Mits repair shop and Mits covers the rebuild/parts cost.

The Mits guy that came to my house said $500 for sending it to Mitsubishi. Is that excessive or should I negotiate? OTH, John down in Haddam,CT seems to have a handle of fixing these as well.

The Mits guy that came to my house said $500 for sending it to Mitsubishi. Is that excessive or should I negotiate? OTH, John down in Haddam,CT seems to have a handle of fixing these as well.

that seems excessive. you should only be paying for his labor charges and should get a break down of the cost from him. once mits is involved they will contact him and cover the shipping and rebuild cost.

lcaillo (post 6953 and many others posted here in the thread) is a Mits tech down in Florida and he has done over 24+ of these WD-52/62x25 V.26 electrical chassis repairs. He charges $300. That covers his service trip out, pulling the chassis, he sends it into Mits for the rebuild, once its returned from Mits he comes back and reinstalls it.

My local Mits service center charged me 4 "book rate" labor hours at $62.50/hr for the electrical chassis repair. My Mits service center would not do in home diagnosis or repairs so I agreeded to pay $120 for their pickup/diagnosis/return fee. After some discussion and excessive time to repair it they reduced that by $60. So my total including tax was ~$330. once it was repaired and returned Mits sent me the letter with the one year guarantee.

that seems excessive. you should only be paying for his labor charges and should get a break down of the cost from him. once mits is involved they will contact him and cover the shipping and rebuild cost.

lcaillo (post 6953 and many others posted here in the thread) is a Mits tech down in Florida and he has done over 24+ of these WD-52/62x25 V.26 electrical chassis repairs. He charges $300. That covers his service trip out, pulling the chassis, he sends it into Mits for the rebuild, once its returned from Mits he comes back and reinstalls it.

My local Mits service center charged me 4 "book rate" labor hours at $62.50/hr for the electrical chassis repair. My Mits service center would not do in home diagnosis or repairs so I agreeded to pay $120 for their pickup/diagnosis/return fee. After some discussion and excessive time to repair it they reduced that by $60. So my total including tax was ~$330. once it was repaired and returned Mits sent me the letter with the one year guarantee.

Hello to dssturbo1 and all Mits forum folk.The advice here is excellent : instructions for bare lamp changes has saved me hundreds of dollars. This question is submitted with respect for the time everyone spends to help owners of Mitsubishi DLPs. I purchased my WD52525 in December of 2004, from Sound Advice in Miami. My first lamp went one year later, followed by 5 more blown lamps. I kept everything clean and cool but the bulbs never lasted. Multiple complaints to Mitsubishi were ignored. The BRLOD came last week.
My question : we all paid good money for a TV that was built with defective parts. The proof is unquestionable and Mitsubishi cannot deny the fact; every DLP TV sold within a time-frame has failed. Doesn't the company have an obligation to give consumers a working product?

Hello to dssturbo1 and all Mits forum folk.The advice here is excellent : instructions for bare lamp changes has saved me hundreds of dollars. This question is submitted with respect for the time everyone spends to help owners of Mitsubishi DLPs. I purchased my WD52525 in December of 2004, from Sound Advice in Miami. My first lamp went one year later, followed by 5 more blown lamps. I kept everything clean and cool but the bulbs never lasted. Multiple complaints to Mitsubishi were ignored. The BRLOD came last week.
My question : we all paid good money for a TV that was built with defective parts. The proof is unquestionable and Mitsubishi cannot deny the fact; every DLP TV sold within a time-frame has failed. Doesn't the company have an obligation to give consumers a working product?

My 62525 is still working after more than 5 years but Mitsubishi replaced the DM board early on. I've replaced the lamp once during that time.

After 5 years of agony dealing with this set I was able to get Mits to replace the set with a new replacement. I purchased the set in early 2005. A few months later the bulb went out. Less than a year after that, they had to replace the power supply. A year later the screen went into checker mode. They replaced the chassis that fixed it for about a month and then the blinking light of death came over for a visit. Another chassis was put in which lasted until the end of 2009. Unfortunately, my extended warrantee was expired and Tweeter (who I purchased it from and who I had the service contract with) went out of business. I contacted Mits in early January 2010 and after 2 faxes (including all of my repair receipts and proof of purchase), 5 phone calls and a gratis visit by a service provider to confirm the problem, they have agreed to replace the set with a new model 65" DLP. It was a long process but they finally owned up to the issue and did the right thing.

Moral of the story, keep your receipts, be persistent and don't take no for an answer.

They are sending me a letter telling me how the replacement is going to be handled. I'm curious what model they replace it with.

BGLOD here, I have a 52525 and 62525 both with the same problem.
The 62525 would come on using the switch trick.
The 52525 would NOT come on using the switch trick.

I replaced 20-25 caps in the 52525 chassis and tried it, still BGLOD so I took the chassis to the 62525 and tried it - same result - switch method will not work.
SO I swapped out the DM board (to the one from the 62525 and original caps) ONLY and now both sets will fire up (without the switch even).

So obviously there is something wrong with the one DM board, watching tbully's fixes it appears his BGLOD was caused from the FMT board. Fuses test good (in circuit).

ANY ideas what to change/test/look for on the DM board????

...Moral of the story, keep your receipts, be persistent and don't take no for an answer.

Excellent advice. The fact that Mitsubishi is so much more liberal with accomodations to customers than virtualy any of their competitors, even to the degree of giving people new sets after years, suggests to me that they deserve serious consideration for new products. The are a quirky company in ways that consumers never see, but they are taking care of lots of customers with problems, and for the most part, their DLP products do not share many of the common problems that other brands have.

I guess it is my turn to join the BGLOD club. My WD-52725 that I have had since Jan 2005 just hung after a power outage last night. It has happened before but a power cycle (unplugging and replugging) usually let the system boot - but not today. After doing a internet search (and finding this forum), I now know how prevalent the issues are. I will have to be calling my mits. CSR and hopefully this can be resolved. Otherwise I am going shopping.

It is disappointing because otherwise I really loved the TV and its performance. Right now it is a paperweight(with a green blinking light!).

EDIT- About 26 hours after the initial loss of function (BGLOD), I decide to try a system reset before I pull the plug for the evening (Who wants to see that blinking light). What do you know about a minute later - the light stops flashing! Power on and I've been watching the Olympics for about 30 min now. I had tried this move (system reset or power cycle) about 7 times previous with no success. I thought the set was toast.

I may have only bought myself a bit of time, but I guess I would like to know if there are things that can be done to minimize a future failure and extend the operational life of my TV? #1 don't unplug it! - duh! OK anything else? is there any thing that can be done now that the set is operational?

Thankful for the life I have left......

Zeus

Excellent advice. The fact that Mitsubishi is so much more liberal with accomodations to customers than virtualy any of their competitors, even to the degree of giving people new sets after years, suggests to me that they deserve serious consideration for new products. The are a quirky company in ways that consumers never see, but they are taking care of lots of customers with problems, and for the most part, their DLP products do not share many of the common problems that other brands have.

Blackflag and lcaillo you replaced my irritation with hope. Everyone here seems to be in the same boat and very helpful with newbies. My only previous problems were repeated bulb failures until 2 months ago when the blinking green started about twice a week. I did the unplug and reset but had a feeling I was on borrowed time. The last power surge resulted in the red light after a message about blocked airflow.
I want to inform that I was very aware of proper procedures handling the lamps I replaced( no touching!) but still have a rather large collection of blown bulbs plus 3 extra lamp enclosures.
Wish me luck, I will keep you informed of any progress with Mitsubishi. On a lighter note : Every time I look at the TV i'm reminded of the Jeff Foxworthy joke " You might be a redneck if your working television sits on top of your non working television" ...

Or you might be a TV tech...we always have a few junkers around that we just won't throw away. Murphy's law of TV repair says that you will need a part the week after you throw away an old set.

Super! Don't even know where or how to search for this problem, tried, but it's not working.

At any rate, just turned on my 62825 to find a "flying saucer" in place of what shoud be my cable image.

TV powers up and is blue, like it would be normally if nothing is being sent to it. However, there's this "flying saucer" image, looks like a ball right in the middle of the screen taking up about 2/3 to 3/4 of it with "tails" that come to a point horizontally basically on the same plane as the middle of the screen. No image is being shown from any external input, cable, DVD, or my trusty VCR, all inputs show the same thing as above. It's flickering, and is lighter color, and honestly looks like something from an old Atari 2600 game, for those of you that remember them.

The TV menu functions ARE visible, and I can scroll through, as is the on-screen display when I press "info" on the remote.

Now the strange part, when I select the TV's internal hard drive and play something I've recorded, that DOES appear, although the colors look like I'm on acid, or watching an Austin Powers movie. No "Flying Saucer", but some images/colors are washed out or way out of whack in terms of what they should be. Some images even look like they're supposed to.

No blinking lights on the front panel, and the last time I watched it, couple days ago, all was fine. I did have some board replaced about two years ago, I've had to search my files to see what it was exactly, but the symptom back then was no picture at all, nothing.

Any ideas on where to go now, besides various websites looking for new TVs??

TIA

edit - clarification and update:
the inputs have currently that are not displaying any image are as follows:
DVD - HDMI
cable(FIOS) - component
VCR - standard analog RCA

as an update, my FIOS box is also hooked up with a 1394 cable, and that IS getting an image and sound.

I've been watching it for the past hour or so, and what's happening is a variation from an almost perfect image to the whole screen being psychedelic. No issue with audio, that stays normal no matter what the screen looks like. There's no "flying saucer" image, rather the abnormality seems to stay as a constant horizontal issue, sometime the entire screen to, at times, an inch wide, to nothing really at all.

Follow up to my post on the 13th

The saga of my 52725 is coming to an end. After 2 repair attempts and a 3rd failure, Mitsu is giving me store credit at the store where I bought my set 5 years ago. They offered me $645 credit. That is better than I expected. Also a week ago a box with a lamp showed up on my doorstep and I got a receipt from Mits saying it was paid in full. There is also a brand new bulb in the set. The repair shop may give me some cash for the bulbs.

I think I made out well.

good day all ...

I have a wd52725 purchased in 2006. The problem I am having is that the picture seems to be milky or faded, color clarity seems off.. It almost seems like either the contrast is way too high, but it is not.

I'm not sure if this has been a gradule thing or if it just occured as I just replace the bulb with the original phillips bulb (4th bulb). This really stuck out because my bulb blew out completely so I hooked up a sony 32" tube tv while the new bulb was delivered. When I installed the new bulb and ran the two sets side by side the difference stood out like a sore thumb.

Any ideas on what the problem may be?

Thanks in advance for any info you may provide!

Greg

good day all ...

I have a wd52725 purchased in 2006. The problem I am having is that the picture seems to be milky or faded, color clarity seems off.. It almost seems like either the contrast is way too high, but it is not.

I'm not sure if this has been a gradule thing or if it just occured as I just replace the bulb with the original phillips bulb (4th bulb). This really stuck out because my bulb blew out completely so I hooked up a sony 32" tube tv while the new bulb was delivered. When I installed the new bulb and ran the two sets side by side the difference stood out like a sore thumb. Any ideas on what the problem may be? Thanks in advance for any info you may provide! Greg

IF you have never cleaned the internal mirror that would be a good place to start. These sets are notorious for the dusty filth that builds up on the internal mirror and can easily make the picture darker or washed out.

Check the link at the top of the page in post 6961 by ironhorse and click on the link to show you how filthy these mirrors can get and how to go about cleaning yours.

once you clean the mirror double check the settings, usually the settings reset to factory defaults and they are set to maximum contrast and brightness.

IF you have never cleaned the internal mirror that would be a good place to start. These sets are notorious for the dusty filth that builds up on the internal mirror and can easily make the picture darker or washed out.

Check the link at the top of the page in post 6961 by ironhorse and click on the link to show you how filthy these mirrors can get and how to go about cleaning yours.

once you clean the mirror double check the settings, usually the settings reset to factory defaults and they are set to maximum contrast and brightness.

I just completed the cleaning of the mirror and reset all the video setting.

WOW ..... I think it may even look better than when new. I never realized how bad the picture had really gotten.

And to think..... I was shopping for a new one.

Directions above were perfect, thanks much to the original poster.

Greg

My Mits wd52725 crapped out on me last december and I was bummed, it was a great looking set , calibrated with a recent bulb replacement.

Instead of going through the hassle of getting it fixed I bought a new display. I pulled the bulb before I had it hauled away .

If anyone wants a replacement bulb with about 300 hours on it as a spare send me a PM. The part number is 915PO20010.

i am totally amazed i took the TV apart the mirrors were so dirty i couldn't believe it i vacuumed all the dust out and cleaned the big mirror at the back the small mirror at the front and what looked like a camera lens i even removed the light and cleaned it as well i used Windex glass cleaner i put it all back together turned it on used the 2 alignment screws to straighten the picture on the screen i tell you the picture is better then when i bought the TV i cant believe how bright and crisp and clear the picture is i love my TV

thanks for the help.. i looked at the link and did everything you showed looks awesome the haze on the light i had that as well but i cleaned the light with windex and the haze was gone looks awesome the timer has expired for my light but it still works and looks like new since the cleaning

thanks for the help.. i looked at the link and did everything you showed looks awesome the haze on the light i had that as well but i cleaned the light with windex and the haze was gone looks awesome the timer has expired for my light but it still works and looks like new since the cleaning

Please let us know if the lamp lasts for a least a couple of days. I'm not sure if cleaning the lamp with anything more than a dry wipedown with a good lint-free cloth is a good idea, because of the temps involved, but I may be mistaken.

thanks for the help.. i looked at the link and did everything you showed looks awesome the haze on the light i had that as well but i cleaned the light with windex and the haze was gone looks awesome the timer has expired for my light but it still works and looks like new since the cleaning I have done this as a last resort. The tv is still working a year later same lamp.

My Mits wd52725 crapped out on me last december and I was bummed, it was a great looking set , calibrated with a recent bulb replacement.

Instead of going through the hassle of getting it fixed I bought a new display. I pulled the bulb before I had it hauled away .

If anyone wants a replacement bulb with about 300 hours on it as a spare send me a PM. The part number is 915PO20010.

I had accepted the offer from this guy and then he went and put it online afterwards in order to make more money. I would watch out from him if I were you.

i am totally amazed i took the TV apart the mirrors were so dirty i couldn't believe it i vacuumed all the dust out and cleaned the big mirror at the back the small mirror at the front and what looked like a camera lens i even removed the light and cleaned it as well i used Windex glass cleaner i put it all back together turned it on used the 2 alignment screws to straighten the picture on the screen i tell you the picture is better then when i bought the TV i cant believe how bright and crisp and clear the picture is i love my TV

I have noticed my screen is off now that I took it apart and cleaned the mirrors.

looking at the screen the top right is correct, the top left however is down about 1", I have adjusted the vpos and hpos, just need to get it squared now.

where are the 2 alignment screws? are these what I need to adjust?

Thanks,

I had accepted the offer from this guy and then he went and put in online afterwards in order to make more money. I would watch out from him if I were you.

I may or may not have 2 bulbs for sale. Depends if the local service shop wants to buy them off me. One is still in the box, the other has maybe 20 hours on it. When my 52725 crapped out in Sept, the warranty company sent me a new bulb. The set was "repaired " 2x (chassis was sent to Mitsu) but lasted less than 2 weeks each time. Mitsu gave me a cash buy out by giving me store credit where I got the set. The store will pick up the set and scrap it, but keep the bulb.

If anyone is interested, make me an offer

Stay tuned.

I've had the BGLOD for about a month now. So far the reset and/or pull the plug trick is working. Today the TV sound and power functions stopped responding to the remote. Another remote results in the same problem so it must be the TV.

Does anyone know if this new problem is a part of the BGLOD root cause?

All I need is for the TV to last until the new 65" VT series Panny goes on sale!

Hi guys,

New to this forum and its because my tv just went south!

The other day I went to turn it off. I hit power, it muted. Then i tried to power it off again. nothing. i had to push the power button on the tv and it then turned off and we went to bed. the next day i tried to turn it on and nothing. cant do it with the remote or manually. when i pwr the tv off at the wall and turn it on it cycles and there is a flashing green light for a minute then it shuts off. it tries to power up and immediately shuts off again. i pressed the reset button (a number of times). nothing. i took out the bulb and it appears fine. never got a service bulb soon warning.

WHATS GOING ON!

It is a WD52825 or WD62825 unit.

Any help would be enormously appreciated as i want to get this fixed myself and not have to have a tech come out.

You said if you unplug it and replug it you get the green blinking light and it will eventually go off. This is good and desired. I assume that it will stay off and not try to power on immediately by itself. It only has a problem when you try to power it on.

Are you using the remote to power on or the power button? It sounds like it tries to power on by it self when I read your problem description. If the TV tries to power on by itself make sure the power on button is not broken or permanently trying to power the TV on (depressed). If you are powering on with the remote try the power button on the TV.

It seems that the most frequent symptom is the BGLOD all the time. The set will not initialize or boot. If yours does that and it seems that does not, and it will not power on that is a different symptom. If you get a flashing light there are codes that can be read from the resulting blinking LEDs.

The front panel LEDs provide an indication of the sets operation, and the possible cause of a malfunction. There are three front panel LEDs, “Power”, “Status” and “Lamp”. Which LED is lit, the color, and whether it is blinking or
steady indicate the current status, or a possible malfunction.

This was posted by another member.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=57527&d=1147791778

there is also an operational check...
Error Code Operational Check

Note: The TV must be in “Shut Down” and not manually switched Off, to perform the Error Code Operational Check. When the TV is switched Off, the code automatically resets to “12” No Error.

Press the front panel “DEVICE” and “MENU” buttons at the same time, and hold for 5 seconds to activate the Error Code Operational Check. The LED will then flash denoting a two digit Code.

Note: The front panel buttons must be used, NOT those on the Remote Control.


The number of flashes indicates the value of the MSD (tens digit) of the Error Code.
The flashing then pauses for approximately 1/2 second.
The LED then flashes indicating the value of the LSD (ones digit) of the Error Code.
Example: If the Error Code is “32”, the LED will flash three times, pause, and then flash two times.
The Error Code is repeated a total of 5 times


Error codes..
Error Code Probable Cause
12 No error detected
22 Recovery from momentary Reset
32 Lamp Cover open
33 Air Filter Cover open
34 Lamp abnormality
35 Chassis Fan failure
36 Exhaust (Back Cover) or Lamp Ballast Fan failure
37 Engine (DMD or Lamp) Fan failure
38 Excess Lamp Temperature
39 Excess DMD Temperature
41 Short Detected
44 DVI Cable (between Chassis and Engine) disconnected


Jack

first of all, thank you for your fast and educational response.

unfortunately i cant get it to give a code.

i can turn the tv off at the wall outlet, let the fans go silent, then plug it back in. at this point the green light flashes for exactly one minute. then the blinking stops and at the exact same time i hear an undistinguishable audio with a slight pop sound from the speakers. this lasts for about 2 seconds and then the sound goes away and the lights blink 3 times and the tv shuts down again.

i can not get a code of any sort by pressing the two buttons for 5 seconds.

What exactly is the difference from "shut down" and off?

Once the tv stops blinking. about 20 seconds later i can get a code and that code is.... blink..........blink, blink... thats a 12 and that means nothings wrong...... well,,,,,,somethings wrong..lol

I have a 62725 that's been rather reliable (but not without minor annoyances). However, recently the PC input has been on the fritz. The picture is very shaky and fuzzy on that input. It has nothing to do with the computer or video cable because even if the computer is off, when I switch to PC input the yellow letters "PC" in the corner have the shakes.

Is this problem likely to remain isolated to the PC input or is the a sign of impending doom? If so I'd like to replace it before the problem spreads to the other inputs and the TV loses complete functionality.

Is there any easy way to fix this issue?

TIA

Mine actually just started doing that yesterday too on the PC input. My screen shakes and I have what looks like little white flecks of video noise showing up all over the screen, kind of like what happens if you change the tracking on an old beta tape. It goes away after about 5 minutes (after the TV warms up) but I'm pretty sure it's a sign of impending doom. Let me know if you figure out what board it is... I've had my TV serviced about 15 times, but it's not under warranty any more.

i can turn the tv off at the wall outlet, let the fans go silent, then plug it back in. at this point the green light flashes for exactly one minute. then the blinking stops and at the exact same time i hear an undistinguishable audio with a slight pop sound from the speakers. this lasts for about 2 seconds and then the sound goes away and the lights blink 3 times and the tv shuts down again.

i can not get a code of any sort by pressing the two buttons for 5 seconds.

What exactly is the difference from "shut down" and off?



What LED blinks 3 times.. and what color is the LED?

I assume that a shutdown is a 'automated' power off from the firmware and a
power off is a user power off via the remote or power off button.

If you let it continue to cycle without pulling the plug will it stop after 15 min? If you leave it unplugged all night will it power up in the morning?

Jack

uscpsycho, The video noise is most likely a few capacitors starting to get weak.

Hey guys, I have a Mits wd-62725 and recently replaced the bulb. Before the bulb change I had a very nice picture and no issues. However now when I watch TV, I see lots of scan lines. They seem to float around the screen and go from horizontal to diagonal.

Does this sound like a bad capacitor issue? It just seems weird that this started happening after my bulb replacement. I wonder if I did not connect a cable well when reconnecting my components? They only thing that makes me lean away from that idea is that I see the scan lines on both cable and DVD sources.

Any input or ideas would be great.
Thanks,
Jeff

the green light under the timer blinks repeatedly for a minute. the only codes i could get were a blink... pause.... blink blink.... which is 12. which is a no fault code.

i cant get the tv to turn on or off manually. I power it on, it blinks repeatedly, then it sounds like it wants to come on( an unrecongnizable) audio crackle, then it just powers off again.


I think i may just need a tech to come out.

I want to be clear on what the best procedure is to eliminate the BGLOD. These are the two things I have done in the past, sometimes with success, other times not
1. Unplug, wait a couple of minutes, replug.
2. Hit and hold the reset button for a minute.
Should these steps somehow be done concurrently? Also, what is the "switch trick" referred to in earlier posts?

The best way to emiminate the BGLOD is to send the chassis to mitsubishi and get a rebuilt one. Everything else, short of replacing a couple of hundred caps is going to be a temporary solution, at best.