I just got a blue screen with a splotch of flashing light yellow in the middle. I have gotten the flashing green light a few times and have done a reset, hard and soft. Nothing makes it come back now.
I haven't seen this thing happen before so I thought I'd post.
The TV also says that there is no signal coming from the antenna and when I switch to satellite, same thing.
Anybody have this happen to you? I would like to have this thing last until spring, if I could.
Any responses would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks:

Lyle

I just got Mits to graciously approve my parts on a chassis rebuild - of course got stuck with the labor..

They originally only offered a 9 month warranty! I got them to extend it to a year.

I am perplexed because I explained to them that I have bought numerous Mits TV's in the past and purchased my WD 62725 on their special finance deal (2 or 3 years no interest....)

I have a WD 52525 that has had a replaced LE and thermistor and now it appears it needs a chassis rebuild as well (won't turn on at all). Problem is that one was given to me for free and I don't have the original purchase receipt... My local repair guy did the original work...

And I sold a bunch of TVs for them when I worked at a mom and pop retail store...

And I have about 10k in newer TVs that I purchased in Dec 2007 that I still have on the 0% no interest financing....

Wow - those who got the replacement TV offer must have mad negotiation skills.

The sad part is I am the Internet Sales Director for a chain of 7 Dealerships!!

I just got a blue screen with a splotch of flashing light yellow in the middle. I have gotten the flashing green light a few times and have done a reset, hard and soft. Nothing makes it come back now.
I haven't seen this thing happen before so I thought I'd post.
The TV also says that there is no signal coming from the antenna and when I switch to satellite, same thing.
Anybody have this happen to you? I would like to have this thing last until spring, if I could.
Any responses would be greatly appreciated.

with the many varied capacitor problems it causes many different issues.

If you want to get it repaired then do as many of us have had to do and get it diagnosed by an authorized mits service center/tech as needing an electrical chassis replacement and then contact mits so they pay for the parts and you pay for the labor which is ~$200-300. Then get your set back repaired and mits also gives you a one year warranty.

1-800-332-2119 ext 8 gets you to the Mits California headquarters, they have deal with this problem alot with the WD 52/62x25 sets.

with the many varied capacitor problems it causes many different issues.

If you want to get it repaired then do as many of us have had to do and get it diagnosed by an authorized mits service center/tech as needing an electrical chassis replacement and then contact mits so they pay for the parts and you pay for the labor which is ~$200-300. Then get your set back repaired and mits also gives you a one year warranty.

1-800-332-2119 ext 8 gets you to the Mits California headquarters, they have deal with this problem alot with the WD 52/62x25 sets.

I called Mits and they gave me a service # to call. Have an appointment on the 15th of October. They have been very busy, to say the least. The tech has to come from Eau Claire, (about 1 hr drive), so have to pay mileage. If they have to have Mits send parts to fix the set, how do I negotiate Mitsubishi to pay for them?
I do have another number the csr gave me, which is a little closer. I am going to call them today after work.
I really am anxious to find out what this blue screen with the flashing light blue/yellow in the middle is.

I'm a newbie here who has been very happy with my 5 year old Mits 52725 until last week when Thin Vertical Lines evenly spaced across the screen showed up. They are very bright and impossible to ignore. They show up after about 10 minutes. They are there on any source, even on top of the TV Menu, and even for 5 seconds on a blank screen after I power off. They are always in the same places, about one inch apart. I reset it (I think), and also unplugged it, both to no avail.

This thread is so long, and I haven't found an answer yet in my browsing. But all the problems in this thread make me wonder if I shouldn't just chuck it and get something new.

Attached is a picture of it.

Please, please advise me on what it might be, if I should repair it, how I should go about it, if I can do any of it myself, where I should get the parts, or anything else. I'm desperate and would really appreciate any help.

Called today 2nd number from Mits csr. Will look at in when I bring it in. Has to go to MInneapolis, but they were more than happy to do the paper work that has to go to Mitsubishi. All I had to do was get a case number from Mits and fax the purchase order to them. They are very aware of the problems and have done this repair many times. Taking it to the facility tomorrow. Only 1 hr drive for me and I don't have to wait till the 15th, yay!
They also said that Mits usually pays for the parts after warrantee for this job. Oh! my 5 year warrantee ran out 9/24/09---------What luck They seem to know when to fry themselves, don't ya think?

To the previous poster. Welcome to the family!

Called today 2nd number from Mits csr. Will look at in when I bring it in. Has to go to MInneapolis, but they were more than happy to do the paper work that has to go to Mitsubishi. All I had to do was get a case number from Mits and fax the purchase order to them. They are very aware of the problems and have done this repair many times. Taking it to the facility tomorrow. Only 1 hr drive for me and I don't have to wait till the 15th, yay!
They also said that Mits usually pays for the parts after warrantee for this job. Oh! my 5 year warrantee ran out 9/24/09---------What luck They seem to know when to fry themselves, don't ya think?

To the previous poster. Welcome to the family!

the normal routine is that you get the local mits service center to diagnose it as needing an electrical chassis. Then you fax the paperwork to mits and they look it over and then contact you back in a day or less telling you they will pay for the rebuilt chassis and you pay the labor. Then when thats cleared up mits contacts the service center that you used and authorizes the repair.

The service center sends your chassis off to get rebuilt by the national mits service/repair center in Ga. and waits for it to be returned. Installs it in your set and returns it to you fixed. Then mits will send you a letter stating they will cover it for the one year warranty. Or if the service center was doing in home repair they should take out the chassis and return when they have it back rebuilt and reinstall it, and you would need to get all the labor + travel cost worked out with them.

my local mits service center charged me 4 service "book" hours, 4 x $62.50/Hr= $250 + tax to do the chassis pull/replacement plus the $128 to pick it up/diagnose it/return it to me. The service manager did knock off $$33 of that $128 charge due to long delays in getting my set fixed.

What would the normal time frame be? I have some important business in March 2010 and would like to have this done by then, if possible.
Thanks for the information. I think I'm saving a little money bringing the set in myself. It's a drive, but we like to do "escapes to Minnesota" now and then. Very pretty state.
It sure is different having a 19" flat panel in place where the 52" was.
Later:

Lyle

Hi Everyone - I just recently posted this in another thread but wanted to see if there was anyone else out here that coud help.

Well we DID get the tv to finally turn on and it was working great last night (we have the WD-52525), this is while the "guts" were still hanging out the back. We kept the tv plugged in while we put everything back in place and screwed on. Once that was complete we began watching tv and everything started to turn green. We could still see the picture but it had a really green tint to it. We tried adjusting the color settings but nothing worked - is this another capacitor issue? I'm really hoping we can fix it ourselves as we cannot spend another $200.00+ to repair this tv. Any input would be appreciated. Thank you!

From your other posts, you certainly do show symptoms of the dreaded SMT cap problems. If you are prepared to invest about $60 in caps, and try to replace them yourself, it's worth a shot. But it will cost you over $200 to have someone else do it. There are many tips in this thread that should help. Good luck.

From your other posts, you certainly do show symptoms of the dreaded SMT cap problems. If you are prepared to invest about $60 in caps, and try to replace them yourself, it's worth a shot. But it will cost you over $200 to have someone else do it. There are many tips in this thread that should help. Good luck.

Which ones are the SMT Caps?

IronHorse, thanks for the write up, made it so I could clean the first mirror during half-time and actually made the game worth watching. Great TV for free!

Can someone please tell me what the SMT caps are? We are trying to solve the problem of the green tint/glow that are screen has now taken to. Has anyone else had this problem after replacing caps? We've replaced about 10 or so caps so far.

Please help! Thanks :)

Can someone please tell me what the SMT caps are? We are trying to solve the problem of the green tint/glow that are screen has now taken to. Has anyone else had this problem after replacing caps? We've replaced about 10 or so caps so far.

Please help! Thanks :)

My understanding is that SMT caps are surface mount capacitors. They are different than the "can" type of capacitors with the leads that go through holes in the circuit board. They have solder pads that attach to pads on the circuit board, and are more difficult to solder (it is easy to rip the trace off the circuit board - especially when trying to remove the old cap).

My understanding is that SMT caps are surface mount capacitors. They are different than the "can" type of capacitors with the leads that go through holes in the circuit board. They have solder pads that attach to pads on the circuit board, and are more difficult to solder (it is easy to rip the trace off the circuit board - especially when trying to remove the old cap).

Do you happen to have a picture of them or somewhere I could look them up? Which board on they on?

Search this thread for posts by Tbully. He has a powerpoint presentation containing everything you need to know.

SO I bought the new lamp and the tv works fine now, It kinda had a fuzzy picture, and i can see that the mirror is kinda dirty. How do I clean the mirror, and how do i change the tv setting from 480i to a higher setting. I just have it plugged into the wall, with no hd converter. Or should i Just call cox and get the box with hd, and the tech will set everything up?

Just got my authorization from Mitsubishi that they will pay for the repair of the chassis for my 52725. Brought it to Minneapolis last Thursday.
It was easy to do.
The Mits CSR, ( from the Phillipines, to boot ) said that they were going to deal with this repair like it was still under warrantee. I bought it in 2004 and the 5 year deal was up on 22 September. Went out shortly after that.
So, if anybody needs service, Mits is really handing out a fairly good deal. Only they will pay for parts only, no service. I tried, they said that the repair had already gone through "arbritration" and that is all they will pay for.
Good Luck to all:

Lyle

Hello,

From a picture quality perspective (brightness, colors, contrast, black level), what are the main differences between the WD-62525 (that I have from 2004) to the newer diamond mitsubishi dlp sets?

I am thinking about buying. I currently need a cleaning of the inside of my 62525, but found out tonight it is not covered under my warranty. Don't want to do this myself and mess it up, so I'm thinking about buying a new one. Do the new sets get as dusty inside as the old one?

Thanks,
Jason

Hello,

From a picture quality perspective (brightness, colors, contrast, black level), what are the main differences between the WD-62525 (that I have from 2004) to the newer diamond mitsubishi dlp sets?

I am thinking about buying. I currently need a cleaning of the inside of my 62525, but found out tonight it is not covered under my warranty. Don't want to do this myself and mess it up, so I'm thinking about buying a new one. Do the new sets get as dusty inside as the old one?

Thanks,
Jason

The difference in picture is night and day between the old and new sets. The black levels are greatly improved (almost on par with plasma). The colors are more accurate when calibrated as well.

The newer models do not have as much of an issue with dust due to the fact that Mits changed the mirror layout after this model year. The problem with this model building up so much dust is the double mirror design. Since the small mirror lays on its back to reflect up to the larger mirror, it collects dust because dust settles on it so easily.

However, it is not too difficult to clean the mirror. You just have to take out all of the screws holding the screen in place, unplug the front panel control connector and lift the screen off. I've cleaned mine many times. Once you get the hang of it, it's pretty easy. The only place there are "hidden" screws is on the front behind the speaker cover. You have to remove the piece of the cabinet directly below the front buttons on the TV. Behind that are two screws that hold the screen in place that aren't visible unless you remove that cover. Also, the connector that connects the front buttons to the unit itself is behind that as well.

If you google, there are places that'll give you detailed instructions along with pictures. You can also find the service manual online which also details the procedure.

Thank you so much for such an informative answer. Besides black levels being better and the colors, too, is the brightness better? It probably is since it doesn't get as dirty as my current set.



The difference in picture is night and day between the old and new sets. The black levels are greatly improved (almost on par with plasma). The colors are more accurate when calibrated as well.

The newer models do not have as much of an issue with dust due to the fact that Mits changed the mirror layout after this model year. The problem with this model building up so much dust is the double mirror design. Since the small mirror lays on its back to reflect up to the larger mirror, it collects dust because dust settles on it so easily.

However, it is not too difficult to clean the mirror. You just have to take out all of the screws holding the screen in place, unplug the front panel control connector and lift the screen off. I've cleaned mine many times. Once you get the hang of it, it's pretty easy. The only place there are "hidden" screws is on the front behind the speaker cover. You have to remove the piece of the cabinet directly below the front buttons on the TV. Behind that are two screws that hold the screen in place that aren't visible unless you remove that cover. Also, the connector that connects the front buttons to the unit itself is behind that as well.

If you google, there are places that'll give you detailed instructions along with pictures. You can also find the service manual online which also details the procedure.

...

If you google, there are places that'll give you detailed instructions along with pictures. You can also find the service manual online which also details the procedure.

There are detailed instructions right in this thread, just do a search here. I got the instructions from someone that posted on this thread and they were great. I've cleaned the mirrors twice now and the second time, I did it myself. I have the 62525 so it's small enough to do yourself. You may need help if you have a larger screen.

I have the 62525 so it's small enough to do yourself. You may need help if you have a larger screen.

Did you mean that you have the 52525? The 62525 is the bigger screen version (62") vs. the 52"...

Did you mean that you have the 52525? The 62525 is the bigger screen version (62") vs. the 52"...

No, I have the 62 inch screen as opposed to a 72 inch screen but it is small enough for me to remove myself.

No, I have the 62 inch screen as opposed to a 72 inch screen but it is small enough for me to remove myself.

Gotcha...I thought the 72" models were outside of this model series.

I have removed my 62" myself a few times myself. Just make sure that you don't set the screen on edge on the bottom.

And remember to set it on its side, leaning up against a wall so the bottom bezel around the button doesn't get damaged!

Search this thread for posts by Tbully. He has a powerpoint presentation containing everything you need to know.

I've tried to search Tbully for the powerpoint but came up empty handed. Many hours spent on this thread!! Its sooooo long....

The good news is, we have gotten the Tv to work. We pulled it apart again to make sure all connections were good, replaced a few more caps, and saw we had one in backwards. Not sure if that was the fix or it was just being tempermental. Anyways, was able to watch it for the past couple days and we're hoping it stays that way. The color is great, the screen is so big compared to our dinky 32" we had before.

Thanks for the help! I'll be back if it happens again :)

Alright cool, Thanks guys. :)

SO I bought the new lamp and the tv works fine now, It kinda had a fuzzy picture, and i can see that the mirror is kinda dirty. How do I clean the mirror, and how do i change the tv setting from 480i to a higher setting. I just have it plugged into the wall, with no hd converter. Or should i Just call cox and get the box with hd, and the tech will set everything up?

Check page 95 out. Spiff72 did a nice write up with some post of pics on the dirty mirror and how to clean it.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=444566&page=95

And on page 141 Ironhorse also had some pics and how to clean the internal mirror that can get so filthy.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=444566&page=141

If you want to see why everyone needs to check and clean their WD 52/62x25 mirrors regularly then check out a dirty one on page 148 post 4440 that i posted.....
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=444566&page=148

to change the aspect ratio/video mode look for the Format button it should be up about 3 rows from the bottom of the remote.

I've tried to search Tbully for the powerpoint but came up empty handed. Many hours spent on this thread!! Its sooooo long....

The good news is, we have gotten the Tv to work. We pulled it apart again to make sure all connections were good, replaced a few more caps, and saw we had one in backwards. Not sure if that was the fix or it was just being tempermental. Anyways, was able to watch it for the past couple days and we're hoping it stays that way. The color is great, the screen is so big compared to our dinky 32" we had before.

Thanks for the help! I'll be back if it happens again :)
Tbully's write up post and link is on page 198 post # 5936

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15064509&highlight=#post15064509


NOTE:.......Tbully just posted one page back in post 6730 that his set went down again and even he didn't feel like going in and doing another 75-100 caps replacement job. he let a local shop send his electrical chassis in for a complete rebuild through mits. His labor charge from the shop was $285. he said they did good work and had a pretty quick turnaround on it.

Well I got my rebuilt chassis put in today. So far so good. Guess we'll see how long it lasts.

It would be interesting, like you said, to see how long these rebuilds do last. Mine should be coming back from the shop soon.
Will give ya a shout out when it gets back home.
I haven't read where anybody is having trouble yet from the rebuilds.
If you have had trouble, how long from when you got the chassis back?
Let's keep this going.

my mitsubishi 62525 has been developing scrolling horizontal lines/scwiggly lines. im almost thinking i might be better off replacing a ton of caps, get it working again, and then sell it on craigslist and buy a 50 something inch lcd. im tired of the problems with this dang tv. already fixed it once with the bglod problem

Anyone want a WD 62825 that hast he BGLOD or know anyone in the southern MI/nothern IN area that can perform the possible fixes???

NOTE:.......Tbully just posted one page back in post 6730 that his set went down again and even he didn't feel like going in and doing another 75-100 caps replacement job. he let a local shop send his electrical chassis in for a complete rebuild through mits. His labor charge from the shop was $285. he said they did good work and had a pretty quick turnaround on it.

We replaced our 52725 with a Samsung lcd last spring and put the Mitsu downstairs in the family room. About a week before the extended warranty expired I went downstairs and saw the blink power light. To mae things short, the local repair shop here in the Rochester NY area picked it up. They called about a week ago and said they were shipping it to NJ to have the caps replaced. We'll see what happens when it gets back.

Long, long, story short ...

Started getting BGLOD on a WD62725 about four months ago and was able to reset satisfactorily altho it became increasingly difficult to do so. After the fifth time, I went through the lengthy procedure for warranty repair. I've had the set 4 years and 5 months and had purchased a four year extended warranty from Magnolia.
Technician opened it up, replaced 4 electrolytic caps, closed and could not get set to function. (BGLOD) It was working when he arrived.
"What now?" I asked
"You get a new set!" was his answer.
Two days later I contacted Best Buy to inquire about the details. At this time, it's my understanding that I'm to get a brand new, unopened WD62725. That's what I'm told by phone with "the Geek Squad/Best Buy" representative.
I'm a little hesitant because I had to return the first set for the football sized white spot problem. I assume I will have to return my present set but since the tech. left I've been able to reset it and it's functioning as well as before this began. I'm aware that this set is on its death bed but the picture is, at present, superb.
What do you think? If Best Buy will give me XXX credit towards a 2009 set, I'd probably jump at that. Where do you think this WD62725 model, that's been out of production for several years came from? What condition could those capacitors be in if they have been sitting in a warehouse drying out for those years waiting for the first power up? I have an electronics back ground and I can tell you that no good will come from those conditions!
That's were I'm at. I do appreciate the support I am getting, I just wondered if any one else has been in this situation and if they found any other (better) options?

most likely the BB/geek squad employee was misinformed about you getting a new 62725. probably he just meant a new replacement for it like the newer model Mits dlps, the 60737 or 65737.

i would call back and ask them if you can have the credit toward another type display since you have had the troubles with the dlp. a lot of bb stores do not even carry the mits dlp in store any more so that shouldn't be a problem.

I am looking for these sets to repair for myself or people who need help and do not want to pay a crazy repair bill. Please consider offering it to me before you dump it or take it in for repairs. I have had tons of luck repairing these sets and really enjoy it. I am in Connecticut and can travel for pickup.

I hate to change the subject because I'm not sure where to start a new one. You guys saved my butt (and $600) with the article and pictures of the cleaning of the light engine. Well now I seem to have another problem I haven't found in the forums. My Mits WD-65831 screen now seems to be flashing or flickering light. It's not constant and very intermittent. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I hate to change the subject because I'm not sure where to start a new one. You guys saved my butt (and $600) with the article and pictures of the cleaning of the light engine. Well now I seem to have another problem I haven't found in the forums. My Mits WD-65831 screen now seems to be flashing or flickering light. It's not constant and very intermittent. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Do you have a spare bulb to try. I had this problem on a Sony just before the lamp went dim. A samsung I was working on did it too.

I'm getting ready to order one just in case. It's been doing this for at least 2 months. My wife cringes every time it does it. It drives her crazy (short trip by the way!) Thank you.

I'm getting ready to order one just in case. It's been doing this for at least 2 months. My wife cringes every time it does it. It drives her crazy (short trip by the way!) Thank you.

You're funny, does your wife know about this posting?:D

I'm getting ready to order one just in case. It's been doing this for at least 2 months. My wife cringes every time it does it. It drives her crazy (short trip by the way!) Thank you. Im interested in knowing what you find. I just worked on a WD-62725 and had the same issue with 3 different bulbs. It was 2 3,300 mf @10V caps in the power supply failing right after I installed them.


Has anyone worked on replacing caps in the power supply and lost the lamp question?
"Have you change the lamp press cancel for no and enter for yes"?
Curious if anyone has seen this and did the set last or what was done?

NEED HELP with my 52725...

I had the BGLOD and did the recommended cap replacement on the DM board (6 caps total). The set turns on after I put it back together and turns on and off just fine, however the problem starts after an hour or so of it being plugged in. After which it powers up, I get sound but no picture... Only way to fix it is if I unplug it for a day or two and try again. No error codes and no BGLOD...
Please help!

NEED HELP with my 52725...

I had the BGLOD and did the recommended cap replacement on the DM board (6 caps total). The set turns on after I put it back together and turns on and off just fine, however the problem starts after an hour or so of it being plugged in. After which it powers up, I get sound but no picture... Only way to fix it is if I unplug it for a day or two and try again. No error codes and no BGLOD...
Please help!What value caps did you use? I would check the soldering, plugs and be sure you use the exact replacement or 680 and put all of the screws to hold the boards back in. Also I have seen these chassis act up if they are not burned in for a few days.

I recently had the BGLOD problem on my WD-62525 that's now famous on this thread. I had an extended warranty that was about to expire, so I contacted them, and a tech came and took the chassis out, sent it up to Mits., and I'm sure (or least hope) they replaced all the suspicious caps, if not all of them. The BGLOD problem went away, as expected, and I can turn my set off and on like it was new. What didn't get fixed was the fan on the right side (as seen from the front, but best heard from the back), which is right next to the chassis, doesn't turn off after power down. I waited plenty of time for it to completely turn off. Heck, I waited until the next morning to make sure. So here's my question... should the cap fix take care of this (I'd rather it not be sent back to Mits., but if the caps are the cause, then I have to)? Or is this a separate problem? TIA.

MPython,

These sets have a fan that runs 24/7. And I believe it is the chassis fan as you've noted. Did you just not notice this before, or am I mistaken about which fan runs 24/7?

Said goodbye to my WD 52525 on Friday. Yet another GBLOD victim.

Said goodbye to my WD 52525 on Friday. Yet another GBLOD victim.

So glad I happened to go downstairs about a week before my extended warantee expired. It had been relegated to the dowstairs family room after we get a new Samsung LCD. It got sent back to Mitsu for a chasis rebuild. I also had a spare bulb. Supposed to get it back on Friday.

Good call. Maybe I should read the manual again.

"Portions of the advanced circuitry of this TV must continue to operate even when the TV is turned off. Some of these circuits therefore need to be cooled at all times. A low power standby fan may be heard in a quiet environment. This is normal operation."

Thanks for bringing this to my attention. A friend of mine has a newer Mits. DLP (don't know the model number, but it may be 3 years old), but there is no fan that stays on on his.

MPython,

These sets have a fan that runs 24/7. And I believe it is the chassis fan as you've noted. Did you just not notice this before, or am I mistaken about which fan runs 24/7?

This thread has been a great source of information for me over the life span of my 52725. I realize that most people only post when they have problems. But has ANYONE replaced a bulb without having to replace caps or ballasts or whatever? Has ANYONE been able to just buy a new lamp on eBay and plug it in without problems?

I ask this because my yellow warning light just went red, and when I pulled the light cage out and pushed it back in (what this would solve, I don't know) the set came on for about 1/2 a second then went blank, and the red light came on again. I don't have the training to do any soldering, and I'm wondering if it will even be worth it in the end.

If there is a simple fix, I'll gladly do it to prolong the life of the set. Yes, times are tough, and it would pain me to have to spend the money on a new set, but I'll do that too if I have to (of course I'll do it--who are we kidding?).

Thanks for any help/advice.

At just about 3 years into ownership, I replaced the bulb (didn't buy it, it was covered under my extended warranty). I got it, replaced it, and it immediately started working again. If you are talking about the LAMP light, then my bet is the TV is telling you that it is the bulb that went bad. It follows what the manual says should happen when the bulb is about to fail, then does (the yellow to red thing). I'd say it's worth the risk to buy the bulb. How many hours do you have on that bulb (there's a way to check it on the TV, but I forget the button sequence)? Worst case is you sell it to someone on this forum for 1/2-3/4 of the price you paid for it for a "used" bulb.

This thread has been a great source of information for me over the life span of my 52725. I realize that most people only post when they have problems. But has ANYONE replaced a bulb without having to replace caps or ballasts or whatever? Has ANYONE been able to just buy a new lamp on eBay and plug it in without problems?

I ask this because my yellow warning light just went red, and when I pulled the light cage out and pushed it back in (what this would solve, I don't know) the set came on for about 1/2 a second then went blank, and the red light came on again. I don't have the training to do any soldering, and I'm wondering if it will even be worth it in the end.

If there is a simple fix, I'll gladly do it to prolong the life of the set. Yes, times are tough, and it would pain me to have to spend the money on a new set, but I'll do that too if I have to (of course I'll do it--who are we kidding?).

Thanks for any help/advice.

There is some trouble with a connection at the back of the light unit that has a tendency to become disconnected and fall out towards the back of the thing. The solution is to go in from the rear of the tv with the light cage in place and manually reconnect this to the light unit. There are instructions somewhere in this thread that are helpful as to how to go about repairing this. It might solve some of your problems.
Welcome to the family!
Lyle

I've had the 62525 since August/September of 2004 so it's been a little over 5 years and have replaced the lamp once after about 4 years. I bought it directly from Mitsubishi though so I don't know about ebay or other sites that might sell the lamps.

I recall having the onset of the BGLOD before getting the warnings to switch out the bulb, but it really started to go badly after the install of a new (but third party) bulb. I think its coincidence, the chassis was failing due to the bad capacitors, and time overall, but it could be systemic, as the bulb and light engine does draw most of the power, and may be causing power supply issues which may worsen the issues with the video boards in the chassis.

On a different tact, I'm trying to keep my 52525 going after its chassis rebuild, but it still resets every so often, sometimes shutting down completely to the red code 13. I may need a new bulb, but I may just want to just get a new LED backlit LCD. I've now put the set on a timer, shutting power off the the set for most of the day, and its on standby during the evening hours. I don't know if that will help, but is there any harm in doing that with taking the power away daily?

This thread has been a great source of information for me over the life span of my 52725. I realize that most people only post when they have problems. But has ANYONE replaced a bulb without having to replace caps or ballasts or whatever? Has ANYONE been able to just buy a new lamp on eBay and plug it in without problems?

I ask this because my yellow warning light just went red, and when I pulled the light cage out and pushed it back in (what this would solve, I don't know) the set came on for about 1/2 a second then went blank, and the red light came on again. I don't have the training to do any soldering, and I'm wondering if it will even be worth it in the end.

If there is a simple fix, I'll gladly do it to prolong the life of the set. Yes, times are tough, and it would pain me to have to spend the money on a new set, but I'll do that too if I have to (of course I'll do it--who are we kidding?).

Thanks for any help/advice.If you try what Parlyle suggests and it doesnt work,hopefully you can use this as your trouble shooting guide. unplug set for 1 min. Plug back in. after timer light stops blinking, turn on the set. If the bulb lights and runs dim then red light comes on after 1 min,= bad caps. If the set turns on but dim, then goes out, then back on dim then out and does this 2 or more times, get a bulb.

Well, this afternoon my Mits authorized repair center will be picking up my 62525 to be taken to the big scrap pile in the sky.

It was fun while it lasted (or more accurately, didn't last). Still awaiting delivery of the replacement 65737 Mits. I'll check in this thread time to time just to see how others are doing.... Thanks for all the assistance and information in this thread, it was very VERY useful!

Thanks everyone for the advice.

I've determined that, even though my lamp is going to blow at any time, I don't believe it's the main cause of my problem. What's happening is that when the set is off, the LED is always red. When I turn the set on, it starts up like normal with the red light turning yellow like before. I get a picture for about a half a second and everything shuts off and the light goes red again. My cheat sheet on what the LEDs mean says that red means "Lamp did not turn on." Since I'm getting picture--if even for a second--it tells me the lamp is still usable.

I called the repair shop that's done work on it in the past and was told it seems like a bad ballast. Sounds good to me.

Is this something I can fix myself? And where can I get cheap parts? People on eBay only offer so much. I have to check out "V"!!

Thanks again everyone.

Thanks everyone for the advice.

I've determined that, even though my lamp is going to blow at any time, I don't believe it's the main cause of my problem. What's happening is that when the set is off, the LED is always red. When I turn the set on, it starts up like normal with the red light turning yellow like before. I get a picture for about a half a second and everything shuts off and the light goes red again. My cheat sheet on what the LEDs mean says that red means "Lamp did not turn on." Since I'm getting picture--if even for a second--it tells me the lamp is still usable.

I called the repair shop that's done work on it in the past and was told it seems like a bad ballast. Sounds good to me.

Is this something I can fix myself? And where can I get cheap parts? People on eBay only offer so much. I have to check out "V"!!

Thanks again everyone.

When bulbs have lasted a good long time and are ready to go they will do this. These lamps are similar to street lamps or large outdoor lights and they will start to turn on and off when they need to be replaced. A lamp ballast in all of my experience works or doesnt. I have yet to see one work after it has failed by restarting it. From all of the Mitsubishi sets I have repaired I have seen both the bulb and bad caps behave this way but never the ballast. Good luck.
I have another idea. Unplug your set for 15 seconds and plug it back in. when it askes if you replaced the lamp push enter to reset the lamp hours. run it for a few minutes and the turn it off to see if the red light light goes away. I have dont this a few times after replacing a bulb.

Welp,

I just ordered a new lamp. I'm going to try that first. Then, if that fails, I'll move on to the ballast. If THAT fails, I'll move on to a Panny V10...

Thanks, everyone, for all the advice.

A few weeks ago I acquired a 62725 and after reading up on techlore, pulled the guts out, replaced the bad caps, and put it all back together. Works great now for the past 2 weeks. i like it so much, I'm thinking about selling my 65 inch rear projection mitsubishi silver medallion tv and just keeping this dlp.

Anywho, just wanted to say that it took me a week to fix it. bought the tv, pulled it apart, found which caps I needed, ordered new ones from digikey and/or mouser, they arrived 4 days later, and that weekend i unsoldered the old ones and put the new ones in.

The OTA hd picture is really really good. Last night, i took the screen off and cleaned the mirror and lense with a feather duster and compressed air and the difference was very noticeable.

--might be a 62525.. i need to go home and check, but it works well so far.

I think the 62525 and the 62725 are the same Chassis. The difference is the speaker cover. The 525 is cloth and 725 is painted plastic. I could be wrong.

My 52725 was returned from the repair shop on Fri. It had been sent doen to NJ from Rochester NY for a chasis rebuild. New bulb. It's now downstairs in the little used family room. Hopefully it will last for years with the little use it will get.

Hello, so after having a couple capacitors replaced early this year I am experiencing wavy lines. I also notice that Digikey is out of the P5533-ND part. This is the 1000uf 16v capacitor that appears to be the big problem one. Can I replace this with something else? I see I can get other types that are rated for only 1000 hours? Will this work or hold me over for the time being?

I will be happy if I can get another year out of this tv at this point!

Thanks!

Hey so I am trying to replace the capacitors. I can't figure out how to remove the chassis completely out of the TV. Also do I need to removed the board completely from the chassis. I was hoping to take it to a pro to do the soldering. ANy help would be great. JT

Ok... Made an appointment with PC Richards to pick up my TV... my 52725 is not starting again.... needs to be reset each time....

It was repaired in the summer for this same problem... and two chassis replacements prior to this...

It is insane.

I can't honestly feel I trust this set and my warranty will be wearing off soon. Any advice how I can get them to replace it? I'd be happy to pay for a new warranty on the new set...

I just got my rebuilt chassis for my wd-62825 back from Mitsubshi today. The service man installed the chassis but we are getting an issue when we power it on. It will go through the boot sequence OK but when powering it on there is no picture and eventually it will get an orange lamp error light. The status code it generates after this is 3-4 which is lamp abnormality. Anyone have any ideas on this one?

I just got my rebuilt chassis for my wd-62825 back from Mitsubshi today. The service man installed the chassis but we are getting an issue when we power it on. It will go through the boot sequence OK but when powering it on there is no picture and eventually it will get an orange lamp error light. The status code it generates after this is 3-4 which is lamp abnormality. Anyone have any ideas on this one?there is possibly something wrong in the power supply. I seen this problem and it is a 4 amp SMD fuse that goes out. Or he didnt connect something properly. I still believe the PS has something to do with it

Ok... Made an appointment with PC Richards to pick up my TV... my 52725 is not starting again.... needs to be reset each time....

It was repaired in the summer for this same problem... and two chassis replacements prior to this...

It is insane.

I can't honestly feel I trust this set and my warranty will be wearing off soon. Any advice how I can get them to replace it? I'd be happy to pay for a new warranty on the new set... Talk to Mitsubishi. They realy are a good company to work with. Stand fiirm on what your asking for and you will get results. Explain the ongoing issue.

Hello, so after having a couple capacitors replaced early this year I am experiencing wavy lines. I also notice that Digikey is out of the P5533-ND part. This is the 1000uf 16v capacitor that appears to be the big problem one. Can I replace this with something else? I see I can get other types that are rated for only 1000 hours? Will this work or hold me over for the time being?

I will be happy if I can get another year out of this tv at this point!

Thanks!Replace these with high temp 680 microfarad at 16 volts. These dont seem to be as overworked as the 1000 in the circut. This is also a Mits service bulliten suggestion

Hey so I am trying to replace the capacitors. I can't figure out how to remove the chassis completely out of the TV. Also do I need to removed the board completely from the chassis. I was hoping to take it to a pro to do the soldering. ANy help would be great. JT If your going to do it this way and your not able to you may want to leave the entire setup to the pro. Its not difficult but it is complicated and damage to the set is easily done. If you are in CT I can help.

I am looking for these sets to repair for myself or people who need help and do not want to pay a crazy repair bill. Please consider offering it to me before you dump it or take it in for repairs. I have had tons of luck repairing these sets and really enjoy it. I am in Connecticut and can travel for pickup. Still looking for these if anyone is interested.

I have a WD-52525 and when i woke up this morning i had a blinking red status light and the tv does not go on any suggestions? Thank you

I have a WD-52525 and when i woke up this morning i had a blinking red status light and the tv does not go on any suggestions? Thank youseveral thing will cause this. Sounds like the power supply failed. Did you try power cycle and reset?

Again, with your advice, it's fixed. Thank you so much!!! I was sweatin there for a bit.

I may have a WD-62725 for you - there might be a problem getting it from Oklahoma though...

This morning when I powered it on it had small black and white rectangles filling the whole screen in kind of a herringbone pattern. Tried reset and recycled the power still same problem.

Any other ideas?

I do have electronic repair experience but no service information for this TV.