The best way to emiminate the BGLOD is to send the chassis to mitsubishi and get a rebuilt one. Everything else, short of replacing a couple of hundred caps is going to be a temporary solution, at best.

Is the chassis the same as the DM board? Mitsubishi changed out my DM board not too long after I bought the set because the HDMI output was producing a lot of static.

The DM board is one of the boards IN the chassis, there are a few other boards in there also.

Is the chassis the same as the DM board? Mitsubishi changed out my DM board not too long after I bought the set because the HDMI output was producing a lot of static.

I wonder if I need a new DM board. My PC input is shaky/staticy. All other inputs are OK.

I know Mitsubishi is repairing sets that are totally shot, will they repair mine if just one input is hosed? If not, anyone have an idea what a DM replacement would cost and if that would fix my problem?

Some one a few posts up suggested my problem is capacitors getting weak.

If you are the original owner they might do something - just ask them :)

Thanks to TBULLY for his BGLOD fix, I had a bad DM board which then enabled the set to be turned on via the switch trick, replacing the caps on the FMT board the tbully said fixed his BGLOD fixed mine also - now it works as supposed to. So thanks again - if he reads this thread any more :)

I have a 62725 that's been rather reliable (but not without minor annoyances). However, recently the PC input has been on the fritz. The picture is very shaky and fuzzy on that input. It has nothing to do with the computer or video cable because even if the computer is off, when I switch to PC input the yellow letters "PC" in the corner have the shakes.

Is this problem likely to remain isolated to the PC input or is the a sign of impending doom? If so I'd like to replace it before the problem spreads to the other inputs and the TV loses complete functionality.

Is there any easy way to fix this issue?

TIA

That is EXACTLY the first symptom I saw on mine, it got worse and worse and eventually I got the BGLOD, I think it took about 4 months. It was under extended warranty and they replaced the DM Module about 8 months ago. Now it's out of warranty and deader than a doornail - won't do anything, no blinking light when plugged in, no sound of fans running or trying to start - absolutely nothing.

It was working fine until Saturday when it was on for about 8 hours (not unusual). I turned it off and noticed about 40 minutes later that it was making a lot of noise, the power light was still blinking and it sounded like it was going through some kind of cycle. It was annoying so I pulled the power cord and the next day it was completely dead. I'm going to see if the warranty company or Mits will do anything to help me considering the number of problems I've had with it in just over 5 years but I'm not holding my breath. What a complete POS TV from a quality perspective, if I hadn't bought the extended warranty (which I never do) I would have pitched it to the curb years ago and bought something else.

I called both the warranty company and Mits and got pretty much nowhere so (after looking at pricing on a 65" Plasma for the backup plan) I tore it apart to see if I could get anywhere. There is definitely a problem on the power supply board as none of the Test Point Voltages are correct. Before I take the board out I am considering buying the service manual on-line but I don't know if they have the actual schematics for the board, if they don't it will be a waste of $$. If anyone here has any experience with the PS on this model or has the manual and can tell me if it includes schematics I'd appreciate any help I can get!

I've not contacted Mitsu (maybe I should have first). We had contacted a local repair guy and it was going to be $700 for him to fix it. Since BestBuy has new 60" ones for $1,200, I started in on taking my chances.

The back of it is now off and it's laying face down on the kitchen table. The problem is how to I get the "module" out?

Anyone have instructions for that? I have a service manual, but it doesn't cover much about it (unless I'm just missing it which is entirely possible).

Any help is much appreciated. I've learned a ton from reading these threads already.

I turned on my set today and all I got were wide green vertical bars on the left work to the right to a couple of wide black bars?


Any ideas?

HELP:confused:

I've not contacted Mitsu (maybe I should have first). We had contacted a local repair guy and it was going to be $700 for him to fix it. Since BestBuy has new 60" ones for $1,200, I started in on taking my chances.

The back of it is now off and it's laying face down on the kitchen table. The problem is how to I get the "module" out?

Anyone have instructions for that? I have a service manual, but it doesn't cover much about it (unless I'm just missing it which is entirely possible).

Any help is much appreciated. I've learned a ton from reading these threads already.


Disregard. I found a picture that showed how it came apart. (I'd post the pic, but it won't let me post links.

Here's where it's located though: freewebs.com/januismer/RemovedChassis.jpg

The picture gave me enough confidence to just pull harder. :) It's out. One of the four capacitors is noticeably popped out. Hopefully I'm close to a fix. Thanks to everyone who has posted all of this great info.

Here is how I fixed by Blinking Green Light of Death (BGLOD) issue on my WD-62725. From what I gather this is pretty much the process for the majority of the WD models. I felt after reading through hundreds of pages of information a nice compiled post might help others in the future.

From reading all of the posts I decided the issue was probably related to bad caps on the DM board. For starters I removed the back of the TV. After scratching my head for a few moments I decided I had best find a service manual to figure out how to remove the chassis. I used this one:

V26 Chassis Manual:
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=6MKC3A3V
File Name: "V26 - Chassis Replacment.pdf"

There is another post that references a service manual that I did not use but may help:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11287117#post11287117

After some time I was able to remove the shiny chassis from the TV. Be careful disconnecting wires and label everything and anything if it is not labeled.
You may want to take some photos. I had to remove the air flow channels to get easy access to the wires. The hardest connector to remove was located on a card on the very far right on the back of the TV.

These are the soldering tools and solder I used from Radio Shack:
Radio Shack Parts
25 Watt Soldering Pencil: 64-2070
45 Watt Desoldering Iron: 64-2060
High-Tech Rosin Core Silver-Bearing Solder: 64-013

I tried a 15 watt soldering pencil to no avail. I spent way too much time of my life attempting to use solder braid and my 25 watt soldering pencil to desolder. Do not even hesitate and go buy the 45 watt desoldering iron. I removed the radial type capacitors in seconds. I thought I could get away with using the braid. Do not even try it, in my opinion.

Make sure and ground yourself by touching metal or using a grounded wrist strap available at Radio Shack. After cracking open the shiny box I visually inspected each card. I had some bulged capacitors on the FMT, DM and Terminal board. I replaced 4 16v 1000uf capacitors on both the DM and FMT board and 2 10v capacitors on the terminal board. The terminal board was a bit of a pain because it is attached to another card with pegs. Here is what I ordered from http://www.digikey.com/:

qty 10 P13126-ND CAP 1000UF 35V ELECT EB RADIAL (4 for FMT and 4 for DM, 2 spares)
qty 2 P5521-ND CAP 1000UF 10V ELECT NHG RADIAL (used 2 on terminal board)
qty 2 P12353-ND CAP 1000UF 10V ELECT FM RADIAL (ordered these also incase the others would not fit on the terminal board)

Why the 35V caps instead of the 16v? This was the general recommendation of the forum. It is my understanding the 35v can better handle the voltage spikes these TVs experience. The P13126-ND capacitors are what others have been using, as well.

I have not seen too many complain about the terminal board but mine did in fact have 1 bulged capacitor so I replaced the two 1000uF 10v capacitors with the part numbers above.

I put everything back together and turned the TV on. I still had a blinking green light. I did some more research and found people were having issues with the power supply and the 3300uF capacitors. So I took it all out and looked at the power board. It did not have any visible issues but I ordered some new caps anyway. Here is what I ordered from Digikey:
qty 2 P5523-ND CAP 3300UF 10V ELECT NHG RADIAL

I put those new caps in and noticed this board also has 4 of the notoriously bad 16v 1000uF capacitors. Since I had two of my 35v 1000uF caps left I also replaced two of the 4 1000uF caps. I would recommend replacing all of them so when you place your digikey order make sure and get enough of the P13126-ND caps.

I put everything back together and still had the green blinking light. So I did some more research and found out about removing the FC connector from the FMT board and powering on the TV. Sure enough, the light went out. When the light goes out, you plug the FC connector back in and turn on the TV and it works. Here are the posts discussing this:

Post #5837 for FMT Connector hack
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14843576#post14843576

Post #5226 for FC Connector info
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12765118#post12765118

You can install a switch and use this method every time you lose power to the TV. I thought that was great, but I was not satisfied. I want to turn on my TV and not worry about a switch. I did some more research and found this issue is caused by more bad capacitors on the FMT board. These are not the fun and easy capacitors, these are surface mount capacitors (SMT). Great! A solution does exist and a wonderful user named tbully has made us a PowerPoint summing up pretty much all of the problems with these TVs and included pictures. Here is the link to the post that allowed me to move forward - downloading and reading this PowerPoint presentation is a must read and shows detailed pics of fixing the boards I mentioned above:

Post #5936
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15064509#post15064509

or

Post #5937
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15064780#post15064780

With this newly gained information I took out the chassis for a third time. I removed the FMT board and wrote down every single SMT capacitor on the board for reference. As you will see from tbully's presentation, not all SMT capacitors need to be replaced to fix the GBLOD issue relating to the FMT board. I replaced only the SMT capacitors he pointed out on the FMT, although many recommend you replace all SMT capacitors on the board. I placed yet another order from http://www.digikey.com/. Here is what I ordered:
qty 10 565-2446-1-ND CAP 100UF 16V ELECT MVY SMD (on FMT)
qty 10 565-2362-1-ND CAP 4.7UF 35V ELECT MVK SMD (on FMT)
qty 10 565-2356-1-ND CAP 47UF 16V ELECT MVK SMD (on FMT)
qty 10 P13126-ND CAP 1000UF 35V ELECT EB RADIAL (Spares)

I did not use all of these but bought 10 each to get the discount and have some spares. As you can see I also ordered 10 more of those notorious 1000uF capacitors that all should be replaced on this and the other boards.

I replaced all 18 SMT capacitors on the lower left quadrant of the FMT board. Starting with the first five on the bottom left hand side over to the second screw hole on the very bottom of the board. Count those bottom left 18 SMTs and you can visualize the ones that I replaced. The photo of the FMT board in tbully's presentation was slightly different than my FMT board.

Refer to this picture of the FMT board if you have the same one as me:
Format Board:
http://img169.imageshack.us/my.php?image=formatpk2.jpg

I found that picture from this post:
Post #5261 for pictures
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12792395#post12792395

I did a lot of reading on SMT soldering before attempting to do the SMT capacitor replacements. When the time came I still was not ready. You cannot use your desoldering iron. I used my 25 watt soldering pencil to lift one side of the capacitor at a time. Some suggested using two soldering irons at once. Ya, I would definately try that. The first capacitor I removed from the board caused the pad to solder to on the board to lift up. If you wreck these, you are pretty much screwed from what I gather. I ended up lifting about 10 solder pads all together but was very fortunate that none of them actually came off of the board. I spent about 1 hour removing and resoldering the new SMT capacitors on. If you know someone that knows how to do this, I would strongly suggest you ask them to help otherwise take your new capacitors and the board to a qualified electronics person.

I reconnected everything back to the chassis, said a prayer and plugged the TV in. The light blinked for 70 seconds and went out as expected. Problem solved. I now have TV for now.

A couple of things to mention. People that have done this fix have reported that down the road problems start to come back. Sometimes it is the GBLOD and other times it is a red light. This forum discusses these issues in detail if you take the time to go through the thousands of posts. I am hoping this fix will last me some time, but one never knows. I am willing to gamble.

Yes, the fan on the silver chassis runs ALL of the time, even when the TV is shut off. It does shut off if the power is turned off, of course. There are people that report their fans go bad. This will cause red blinking light errors from what I have read. While your TV is apart, make sure to clean the fans and blow out any excess dust using canned air.

Doing these fixes can permanently damage your boards so please be careful and be very patient. The TV is already broken, I guess, so maybe it does not matter. All in all it is a very fun and enriching experience especially when the TV works in the end. Good luck and have fun.

Bravo Hocus Pocus on a quality post!

Ok so I have the BGLOD for the second time...

Here is my Story:

Wd-62525
Had minor issues with it the first year
2nd year had a bad VGA port believe they replaced the FMT board but unknown
3rd year had BGLOD Had full Chasis repaired
now into 5th year and BGLOD again.......

This time I am out of extended warranty

Called Mits and dealt with a jerk who seemed very disinterested in my problems. Eventually told me they will send someone out at my expense but if repairs are needed they will review to see if they will help pay for them.
I did not like that option so I told him so, he refused to budge and so while he kept interrupting me I asked to talk to his manager, which he interrupted me again and said that they would pay for service tech.

Service tech comes out and visually inspects Tv, same service tech so he knew history, wrote a bid for around $500 for repair of dead unit. The next Tuesday (3 days) I called Mits and they said they had recieved it but I needed to fax receipt as well as they needed a service history. I handled the receipt they handled the service history. By Thursday (Easter Week) somebody called me with caller Id number of 111111, it was Mits and they wanted to make an offer. They would either pay for out of warranty service or they would sell me a 65737 for same price of repair (Around $500). I told them I would have to think about, but to call me on Monday (they were closed on Good Friday). So Monday around 3 I still had not talked to anybody, I called and got to someone who could not help but they transferred me to someone who may have been able to... She was unwilling to budge on the deal, I wanted an 837 as the 737 does not have Netcommand or sd card for picture loading. So as she refused I asked to speak with a supervisor, she put me on hold and said she was not available and they could call me back... I told her to have my rep call me and the supervisor. About 2 hours later my rep (the same Guy who called oN Thursday) called and offered me 65837 for same price around $500. I quickly accepted it and delivery is due this week! I already have a tracking number.

More on this on next post.....

Ok so now I am expecting shipment of new tv this week but somehow I have ended up with a 62525 with the same problems of my original and this one also has a rebuilt chasis (the old one was picked up for diposal, part of the deal). So I took it apart planning on doing the old capacitor check and the first board I looked on was the power board and sure enough 2 blown caps (3300 10v), I replaced these two caps and looked over the rest. I do not really know how to measure capacitors to see if they are working, but all of them had ohms except the 2 big ones (C9A26, C9A27) and negative ohms on one big one at location C9A02 on the power board. See attached PDF

The PDF includes all markings on all the boards, I suppose these are the caps and other things that were fixed or in someway fixed or suspect when they did the chasis repair.

My voltages on test points are in pdf..


My question can these big Caps
C9A02 185D122050 C-ELEC - H200V 1000M-M (negative ohms)
C9A26 185D122050 C-ELEC - H200V 1000M-M (No Ohms)
C9A27 185D122050 C-ELEC - H200V 1000M-M (No Ohms)

cause all of my problems?

All of my other Caps visually look ok and measured the ohms in the usual suspects. There is a brown substance all around these boards, not sure if it was from a cap exploding or something but it is dried and you can lightly scrape it off.... But none of this is around any of the blown caps that we repaired...

I don't mind sending a board off to PTS but I don't want to spend as little as possible being all the troubles this model of tv has caused me...

Thanks
aevans0001

also attached is a list of the usual suspects according to one of htose all in one kits, this also includes the mIts part number and location on the board...



Edit:
Here is Tbully's powerpoint the last link I saw was dead. The link is Aevans0001 Share Page (http://aevans0001.keepandshare.com)

Edit again:

Added some more documents I got from Paul to my share page above... Also converted all files to PDF to ensure universal viewing pleasure... jUst click the link above... I hope nobody minds that I converted their work, none of this work is my own... Fixed Link


Thanks
Aevans0001

C9A02 185D122050 C-ELEC - H200V 1000M-M (negative ohms)
C9A26 185D122050 C-ELEC - H200V 1000M-M (No Ohms)
C9A27 185D122050 C-ELEC - H200V 1000M-M (No Ohms)


Still looking for these caps...

Anybody know if these are the snap in kind? Or a Mouser or Digikey Part number? Having a hard time finding them....

Thanks!



*Edit*

I found a manual that has all the schematics injected into them! Not 100% sure if these come directly from V26 or not, I suppose they should!!!!! This is a great find thanks to RICHARD SCHRODER from I believe SchematicForums.com

Ok I went a different way.....

I called up the tech that had serviced the tv numerous times as he sold me a power board for $60.00..... SLipped it in and it worked!

He also mentioned something about switching some of the caps on 2 of the boards from 1000uf to 660uf I will try and get more details, but i got lost at lowering them...

Here's my story: I have a Mitsubishi WD52825 that was purchased in 2005. I had the lamp replaced last September. The TV had been working fine until last night. I turned it on and it took longer than usual to power up. When it did the screen was blue with a lined-out type circle in the center. I could hear the TV or PS3 through audio, but I had no picture. I tried with my DirecTV through both component and HDMI with the same result of the circle with lines through it in the middle of the screen. As soon as I turned DirecTV off the screen was just blue.

I was able to access the menu and look at everything, i.e. set-up, color, input devices etc., but I just could not get anything to input on the screen so I could actually watch TV or access my game system.

I hit the reset button and got the same result after I powered the TV back up. I went through the manual reset to restore factory defaults and nothing changed. I unplugged the TV once with the same result. The 2nd time I unplugged the TV when it came back on all of a sudden I got a red light by the lamp indicator. As I mentioned I had just replaced the lamp 8 months ago. I unplugged the set again and when I powered it up I got a flashing green light by the timer and then the flashing stopped and it was just a solid green as normal.

I then took out the newer lamp and put my old lamp in (which was still working when I replaced it) but I got the same red light by the lamp indicator after I plugged the TV back in and powered it up. Of course now the screen is black and I have no picture at all

Fortunately my extended warranty runs until October of this year. I called today and they suggested that I replace the lamp first (they will send me a new one) and if that doesn't work then they will send a tech out. I'm a novice, but I just don't know how this could be a lamp problem, especially since before I reset the TV I could still get the blue screen and access the menu.

Has anyone else experienced this or can anyone share some insight as to what the problem might be?

I'm sorry I don't know what the problem might be but I'm almost sure it's not the lamp.

I think 5 years is about the life span of these dlp's. Mine died 2 weeks before the extended warranty expired. Was sent back to mitsu for a chassis rebuild. Each time it died again after less than three weeks. Finally convinced mitsu to give me store credit after it died a 3rd time. The gave me $645. Was able to buy a nice 40 inch Sony Bravia. We had replaced the mitsu as our primary tv lin March 09 with a 52 inch Samsung.

This may have been answered before. But I'm couldn't find it. If there anyway to test a bulb outside of the tv? There is something wrong with my tv and I got a new bulb, but when I put it in, after a few seconds it still says it is bad and I would like to be able to check the bulb independently of the TV.

As stated numerous times, anytime you have a problem with this model mits call them before doing anything... They will work with you and either fix it.. Read some of this forum particularily int he last 2 months and you will find other suggestions..

Mine is a WD-6725 and I'm the original owner. I took the advice of numerous posters and today I called Mitsubishi Customer Relations and explained that my set has been having intermittent BGLOD issues since about year two of ownership. I had called Mits back then and they told me to get a new bulb which I did. Problem somehow went away for almost a year, then called again and they gave me name of local authorized repair service who came out reseated everything and somehow made it work. Fast forward another year and BGLOD happens again so I call the guy direct and he comes out, says it could be power supply or DM board. He has rebuilt power supplies due in from Mits in a week. Meantime, I try every trick known and after 3-4 days the set stops blinking and works 2 days before super bowl. I call the tech and he says the "fix" is temporary, it will break again. Last week, it dies again.

So I relay all this to the Mits guy this morning and he gives me a incident number, tells me to fax a copy of the original purchase invoice along with an estimate of repairs from the local tech. Honestly, I am not anxious to have Mits repair this particular set or have them send back a refurbished chassis. I am going to see if they will work some sort of deal on a newer, comparable replacement set. Between the cost of repairs, shipment back and forth, and other incidentals... the price of a replacement that has a better chance of holding up might make more sense.

I have heard they will pay between $350-$450 for some of the repair work, and I're read where some Mits owners were offered a new dlp set for anywhere between $450-$$750. Actually, Slickdeals has a 65" Mits DLP for $900.00 right now.

Stay tuned and I will update as soon as I send them the required material and hear back from Mits.

I'm not sure if this is appropriate (if not just delete it), but I just tore apart a 52525 and have a few parts that I will let go cheap if anyone needs one.
Ballast board, DM board, PWR suppy board (caps done w/higher voltage/temp caps), fans, light engine w/bad color wheel.
The other 2 boards in the chassis work but I'm not listing because the caps controlling the svideo output were shot. I do have them though.
Just PM me if anyone is interested.

paudemge - does it try to light up at all? Any noises, sounds?

I am in the midst of repairing the GBLOD. The TV powers on now, but on the screen are small black and white rectangles. Can anybody help me out as to the cause and repair of this? thanks

Are you the original owner?

If yes then put it back together and call Mits... If not I would look into optical engine or something like that I never heard of the rectangles...

Maybe one of the ribbon cables??

No, I'm not the original owner. I picked it up at a thrift store along with its stand for $60. I thought it would be worth trying to fix since I read that it was probably bad caps. I had bad caps on each board and replaced all of the larger caps.

I found this on another forum. I don't even remember which one now.

"Tile or block pattern replace D8F00 and D8F01 part # 264P828010, also replace C8F26 and C8F29 part # 141P148000 (1 uFD, 25 V) on the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002)."

I have no idea what or where those parts are.

Since I can't turn my tv on to take a photo of the black and white rectangles, I made an image in Photoshop that represents what they look like.

Those are the components on the board, probably diodes and caps. Look at the board closely and you can see those number - usually.

The D8F00 and D8F01 locations are actually printed on the boards...


Alright go to my keepandshare page and download the service manual schematics

http:\\aevans0001.keepandshare.com

Those locations are on the right side of what is reffered to as FMT6 [M32 MIRCO] board...... I would guess FMT board...

Look at the schematics you can probably find it alot faster as you are also looking at board...

I have alot of very good info I collected while trying to fix mine...

I called the mitz service tech that fixed my tv numerous times and bought a power board from him for $50.00

I found D8F00 and D8F01. They are very very small rectangular pieces. I can't imagine being able to replace them. Thanks for the link to your sharing page. All kinds of cool stuff there.

I have heard they will pay between $350-$450 for some of the repair work, and I're read where some Mits owners were offered a new dlp set for anywhere between $450-$$750. Actually, Slickdeals has a 65" Mits DLP for $900.00 right now.


Mitsu gave me a $645 store credit where I bought my TV. I would not get another Mitsu DLP at any price. I applied the credit towards a Sony Bravia 40 inch 120 mhz. I had a virtually new bulb in the set and for whatever reason Mitsu sent me a new bulb. The service center which had picked my set up twice before it died a 3rd time gave me $75 for the bulbs, so the Sony cost me less than $200. And I have a current technology HDTV0. Fits much better where I had moved the Mitsu to when we bought a 52 inch Samsung 120 mhz lcd a year ago.

I will follow up with an update after tomorrow, but after speaking to Mitsubishi Customer Relations, they wanted me to fax them my original purchase bill for the WD-62725 (Four Grand!!!) along with a written history (2 pages), and also have the local Mits authorized service center give me a hard copy of an estimate to do the repairs. So I called EasternTronics Thursday, and they will be here tomorrow to once again mess with this set.

Interesting was Easterntronics refused to give me the the diagnostic estimate until they tried to install a new power supply and some capacitors. So this is going to cost me $320-$330 tomorrow and I put that in the letter I faxed Mitsubishi. I also told them that previously, Easterntronics had said that they could ship it back to Mitsubishi and they in turn would repair it in Irvine, CA. That was going to be about $500. So in my letter I said that they've already made me buy a bulb that wasn't needed $220 from Mits... and its going to cost me over $300 tomorrow and that may not work or it may be a ban-aid, but I was not going to spend $500 on rebuilding a set that historically is prone to die because the proper engineering/components are not used even in repairs. If they want this set and are willing to give me a cash allowance or a replacement set... I'd sooner go that way.

I know a lot of people are now turned off by Mitsubishi, but I am curious about whether or not the supposed replacement set (the 65" WD-73C9) is any good? I built a custom cabinet for this set, and then built a surround cabinet, and I can fit the 65" in the space but would have to build something to lift it higher because my set has about 10" devoted for built-in speakers that the replacement set has located somewhere else. But if Mits gave me a $645 check... I'd probably buy a LCD/LED 120Hz set and be done with it.

Take a look at what it's going to cost you just to see if the set can be repaired, then compare it ti what a new HDTV would cost you. DLP is outdated. I'd just dump the set and get a new lcd.

Iron Horse... I would not allow them to try and fix it... Screw that, they need to give you the hard copy or give it to Mits.... You have done your part it was them that failed.... You should not have to pay for that call period.... I would call Mits tomorrow before they get out there and tell them so...

Also The replacement is actually the 65737 or 837.. I got the 837 for ~$500. Easterntronics needs to give you an ESTIMATE only not a repair try... They are trying to get more money out of you...

In fact I would call Mitz and report them and tell them to either send out somebody else or have them come out and give estimate only free of charge...

I included all the information in a two-page historical semi-rant. I told them that it was outrageous that I couldn't get a diagnostic estimate without first paying for a repair that may or may not work. Think I will also call them tomorrow, the service guy isn't due until late afternoon. I'm not ready to dump two grand for a comparable size 120Hz LCD/LED, and I'd rather not buy anything unless I fill the "void" with the right size set.

I decided to take everything apart and then check for bad caps or loose ribbons. I put it all back together carefully. I plugged the TV in and got the blinking green light, then I unplugged the FC connector and the light went out. So, I was back to where I was before, just as I was about to push the power button, the TV shut down and a solid red light appeared. I noticed I hadn't plugged in the fan on the back panel of the enclosure. I had the fan plugged in on the chassis. I thought that was the problem. So, I plugged it in, unplugged the TV, plugged it back in and went through the same procedure, but this time the light wouldn't go off. I plugged back in the FC connector and right away the TV shut down and the red light came on.

Now, all I get is a "click" when I plug it in. I thought I was really close, now I seem a lot farther away from a working TV. Any ideas?

Yea, did you put your lamp door back on tight :)
Double check all connections. Do the fans turn on? All 3 of them?

Oh and an easy one to miss, make sure you have the filter cover on and tight, that will cause what you are experiencing also.

If I reset the system, the light changes back to the blinking green light for about 30 seconds. Then, there is a click, and the Status light turns solid red again. Another thing I see is that the Chassis fan doesn't run anymore. It is plugged in and grounded. The filter door is on as it was before. All I get now is a click. Before the red light incident, the Chassis fan would come on right away when I plugged it in.

The problem started when I forgot to plug in the one fan, the status light turned red. Could it be the TV went into some sort of a protection mode and I can't get it out of it?

Mitsu gave me a $645 store credit where I bought my TV. I would not get another Mitsu DLP at any price. I applied the credit towards a Sony Bravia 40 inch 120 mhz. I had a virtually new bulb in the set and for whatever reason Mitsu sent me a new bulb. The service center which had picked my set up twice before it died a 3rd time gave me $75 for the bulbs, so the Sony cost me less than $200. And I have a current technology HDTV0. Fits much better where I had moved the Mitsu to when we bought a 52 inch Samsung 120 mhz lcd a year ago.

thats great and all, but now you have a tiny tv. i guess as long as your are happy with it, congrats.

Retreat I would double and triple check to make sure everything is plugged in...What all did you remove? You should have only of removed the chasis in which case just need to make sure everything is rehooked up and it should at least work as it did...

I had a red light on mine for a minute due to the filter door being mounted upside down so it did not hit the little button that tells the system it is closed... I also forgot to plug in a fan...

The chassis fan has to come on, that will do it also. All fans must come on and they are monitored. Can you check to see if you have voltage to the fan? Is it plugged into the right fan connector :)

I just forgot to hook up the fan on the back panel. That was when I got the initial red light. The TV looks to be in protection mode. I have an error code of 41 (short detected). I must have shorted something when I plugged in the FC connector so I could turn on the TV because the moment I did it, the TV shut down and I haven't been able to get the red light to turn off. Where do I begin looking for a short?

So is the tv back together? Did you hook up all three fans? 1 Chasis, 1 Back panel, and 1 internal......

Double and triple check connections

I never unhooked the internal fan. The Chassis fan is hooked up and the back panel fan is hooked up. Everything has been checked. It still detects a short.

I just forgot to hook up the fan on the back panel. That was when I got the initial red light. The TV looks to be in protection mode. I have an error code of 41 (short detected). I must have shorted something when I plugged in the FC connector so I could turn on the TV because the moment I did it, the TV shut down and I haven't been able to get the red light to turn off. Where do I begin looking for a short?

one of the DC voltages are shorted or the micro thinks it is shorted.
I think you can try to isolate it to a board 1st. Disconnect DC voltages to each board and see the results. If it never changes then the short is likely on the Power board.
Then just probe to find the shorted part.

I apologize for my lack of knowledge, but could you describe how to do what you asked me to do? I need a simple step by step if you would. I can replace caps, but I have never tested a board.

When the TV is plugged in, is there anything on the boards that I should not touch as to risk electricution? (I told you I don't know about these things, but I am learning).

Here's my story: I have a Mitsubishi WD52825 that was purchased in 2005. I had the lamp replaced last September. The TV had been working fine until last night. I turned it on and it took longer than usual to power up. When it did the screen was blue with a lined-out type circle in the center. I could hear the TV or PS3 through audio, but I had no picture. I tried with my DirecTV through both component and HDMI with the same result of the circle with lines through it in the middle of the screen. As soon as I turned DirecTV off the screen was just blue.

I was able to access the menu and look at everything, i.e. set-up, color, input devices etc., but I just could not get anything to input on the screen so I could actually watch TV or access my game system.

I hit the reset button and got the same result after I powered the TV back up. I went through the manual reset to restore factory defaults and nothing changed. I unplugged the TV once with the same result. The 2nd time I unplugged the TV when it came back on all of a sudden I got a red light by the lamp indicator. As I mentioned I had just replaced the lamp 8 months ago. I unplugged the set again and when I powered it up I got a flashing green light by the timer and then the flashing stopped and it was just a solid green as normal.

I then took out the newer lamp and put my old lamp in (which was still working when I replaced it) but I got the same red light by the lamp indicator after I plugged the TV back in and powered it up. Of course now the screen is black and I have no picture at all

Fortunately my extended warranty runs until October of this year. I called today and they suggested that I replace the lamp first (they will send me a new one) and if that doesn't work then they will send a tech out. I'm a novice, but I just don't know how this could be a lamp problem, especially since before I reset the TV I could still get the blue screen and access the menu.

Has anyone else experienced this or can anyone share some insight as to what the problem might be?

I put in the replacement lamp and, just as I expected, I still got a solid red light under the lamp indicator. I called the warranty company again and they sent a tech out today. He thinks it's the chassis/ballast so he took out both pieces and took them to the shop for repair/replacement. Now I have to wait for the repaired parts to come in and then for the tech to come back out to my house and install them. Hopefully I can get this TV fixed within the next 2 weeks.

At least everything is covered under warranty and I get a brand new lamp (although my old buld was only 6 months old).

I have a 52526 DLP manufactured in 06. The set works good but powers down after viewing, sometimes 30min others 5hrs. After power cycle and reset it will come back. I received error code 44 - DVI cable between Format and Engine disconnected. Any advice?

@retreat Unplug the power wires to each board.. They are usually the ones (i think) that have the orange wire on them and I think there was also a brown wire... Basically look for the wires that come off power board, unhook one at a time until the status changes.. i would start with the board you tried to fix... After to isolate it to one board you can look for shorts on that one board...

Cool. I'll do that. I actually replaced caps on all the boards. I'll see what happens. thanks.

I did it, and no change. I still have a relay clicking on the power supply board and the chassis fan doesn't come on.

Glad to hear my (somewhat outdated) PPT is still helping people. I can't believe how far that file has gone on the internet. I see it on a few file-share sites now. It has even been converted to a PDF! (nice idea)

Many have learned that it is best to replace all SMT caps since I did my research. I tend to agree.

Anyway, I just wanted to drop in and say hello and good luck!

Ok What did you do?

The instructions were to disconnect one power cord form 1 board. Then test Then rehook up that power cord and disconnect another, test. So on and so on... If none of those worked or changed the status (meaning instead of error 41 (or whatever it was) it may now be a 19 or whatever...

I didn't check if the error code changed after each unplugging. I retested and found the same error code (41) after each power supply plug was unplugged. When I unplugged the power supply plug from the signal board, there was no click or red light. I couldn't get an error code to show either.

I think I am going to test each fuse on every board to see if there is a blown fuse. I tested them all and there was one bad one on the power supply board (F9A02) and one on the FMT board (F8F02). I will order replacements, install, and hope for the best.

Sadly (?) I will probably be a less frequent lurker and poster in this thread. Today I agreed to accept a new WD-65737 as a replacement for my toasted Medalion WD-62725. So the process starts with me sending Mits CR the money order, and then they in turn actually start the internal process. And that includes having the local Mits-authorized service center that wrote the death notice diagnostic paperwork come to my house and cart away old Betsy with the blinking green eye. I couldn't see throwing good money after bad with regard to a full chassis rebuild and doing weekly novenas to pray that it didn't go dead in the middle of a great ball game or movie. Of course, if I went that route they assured me that there would be no additional repairs, they would send me a new set, but yeah... that'll take a week or two anyway.

This way, I can start from scratch. Yeah, its still a DLP, but my setup is in a diagonal corner with cabinetry around it so it doesn't mean squat if its 1" thick or 20" thick. My only fear is that the 2nd Gen DLPs crap out with the same regularity as the 1st Gens did. But I will again get some kind of warranty.

Glad to hear my (somewhat outdated) PPT is still helping people. I can't believe how far that file has gone on the internet. I see it on a few file-share sites now. It has even been converted to a PDF! (nice idea)

Many have learned that it is best to replace all SMT caps since I did my research. I tend to agree.

Anyway, I just wanted to drop in and say hello and good luck!

Hey TBully & others.... I have not been on this site for awhile. It is cool to see this thread still alive.
Woke up yesterday to my 62825 having the GBLOD. Like you I didn't replace all the the SMT caps. I tested all with a ESR meter and replaced the ones that tested bad. Out of curiosity I pulled power to the format and that didn't work.

I don't have the free time to invest in this tv like I did before so I am not going to try and repair it. I picked this tv up from craigslist around 3 years ago for $280. I definitely got my money out of it.
I ended up going to tigerdirect and picked up a new Mitsubishi WD65C9 for $1099.96 with free shipping.

My other two 52725's are still going strong.

What tv did you end up getting to replace your 62825?

My TV totally stopped working today exactly five years and two weeks from date of purchase. I can't believe I paid $4,250 with tax and extended warranty. That's a lot of money in 2005. I know I'm preaching to the choir.

My problem is not BGLOD so I have some hope that my TV can be easily repaired. I have a red blinking status light - one long + three short. According to this page http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=57527&d=1147791778 my problem is "DMD or Lamp fan stopped."

Is this an easy/cheap repair? Can this be done on-site by a tech or does it need to go to the shop for repair? Is this likely to be a recurring problem? Is this something the Mits will cover at this point?

I have tried to reset the TV. When I do all the status lamps turn off. But when I try to power on I hear some clicking and then the red light starts to flash again.

TIA

You could pull the back cover and see if the fans are stopped - the fault hints at which ones to look at. Might be an easy fix.

You could pull the back cover and see if the fans are stopped - the fault hints at which ones to look at. Might be an easy fix.
Are the fans easy to locate if I pull the back cover off? Any pictures floating around to help me find them? Maybe in that PPT that everyone keeps talking about (I have no idea where to find it)?

If one or more of the fans has stopped is it simply a matter of replacing the fan(s)? Or can there be some other reason for the fans to stop, like an electrical issue? I know, "anything" is possible but is that very likely?

If that fans need replacing are these standard PC cooling fans?

There will be one fan on the back cover, 1 fan on top of the electrical chassis you will see on the left, one fan under the lamp assembly - it might be harder to see installed but if the lamp lights then you might be able to see it moving, a small fan on the rear of the light engine - easy to see, and one fan on the tunnel at the ballast on the right - hard to see it.

Your code says light or light engine fan right? If so check those. No not normal fans but they are easy to get, I have one of each laying here if needed.

There will be one fan on the back cover, 1 fan on top of the electrical chassis you will see on the left, one fan under the lamp assembly - it might be harder to see installed but if the lamp lights then you might be able to see it moving, a small fan on the rear of the light engine - easy to see, and one fan on the tunnel at the ballast on the right - hard to see it.

Your code says light or light engine fan right? If so check those. No not normal fans but they are easy to get, I have one of each laying here if needed.

The code says "DMD or Lamp fan stopped."

I don't know what DMD refers to. I assume "lamp fan" is generic enough that it can refer to any of the three lamp fans you mentioned.

Unfortunately, if there are that many fans diagnosing is going to be a challenge. The TV doesn't power on because of the fan failure. As soon as I try to turn the TV on it goes into error/failure mode. The lamp doesn't come on and the fans don't start spinning.

Looks like the only way to test would be for me to replace each of the fans one at a time until I discover the faulty fan. How much for your fans?

Thank you for your help.

I think I am going to test each fuse on every board to see if there is a blown fuse. I tested them all and there was one bad one on the power supply board (F9A02) and one on the FMT board (F8F02). I will order replacements, install, and hope for the best.


I soldered in the two new fuses, put the thing back together and plugged it in. The red light is gone, but I still have the "click", no fans coming on, and the BGLOD. I can't get the light to stop blinking even when I unplug the FC connector as I could do previously.

Is there anything else to try, or is it a lost cause? I am about to throw in the towel.

The code says "DMD or Lamp fan stopped."

I don't know what DMD refers to. I assume "lamp fan" is generic enough that it can refer to any of the three lamp fans you mentioned.

Unfortunately, if there are that many fans diagnosing is going to be a challenge. The TV doesn't power on because of the fan failure. As soon as I try to turn the TV on it goes into error/failure mode. The lamp doesn't come on and the fans don't start spinning.

Looks like the only way to test would be for me to replace each of the fans one at a time until I discover the faulty fan. How much for your fans?

Thank you for your help.

Fans fortunately are the easiest things on a tv to test. They are similar to PC fans, and the connectors look very much like PC fan connectors. I've never seen one that didn't work on DCV, and I've seen 5V, 6V and 12V. You don't even have to uninstall the fan, just find the connector end and unplug it. Generally, Red/Black/White three pin connectors. The Service Manual in several places will clue you in to the proper voltage, or the fan itself will have a sticker on it with part numbers and specs. Use a DC power adapter from another product, a lantern battery, an AAA camera cluster, 9V battery, an old UPS battery, etc.

Look at the lamp fan first, since it has the hardest/hottest job and they fail more than the others. Don't try and substitute PC fans for such a critical part. The proper replacements aren't too pricey, as little as $15 up to $35 or so. Clean the dust out while you are at it.

Fans fortunately are the easiest things on a tv to test. They are similar to PC fans, and the connectors look very much like PC fan connectors. I've never seen one that didn't work on DCV, and I've seen 5V, 6V and 12V. You don't even have to uninstall the fan, just find the connector end and unplug it. Generally, Red/Black/White three pin connectors. The Service Manual in several places will clue you in to the proper voltage, or the fan itself will have a sticker on it with part numbers and specs. Use a DC power adapter from another product, a lantern battery, an AAA camera cluster, 9V battery, an old UPS battery, etc.

Look at the lamp fan first, since it has the hardest/hottest job and they fail more than the others. Don't try and substitute PC fans for such a critical part. The proper replacements aren't too pricey, as little as $15 up to $35 or so. Clean the dust out while you are at it.

I had this happen and it was only dust. Once I removed the fan, it was spinning again. Good luck

I just replaced the lamp on my WD-52525 a couple of weeks ago. It has been fine for these couple of weeks and now all of a sudden I'm noticing it takes longer to light up the screen when powering on the TV. A couple of times it didn't light up at all. I took the lamp out to have a look at it (its labeled Philips) and it looks fine. Can this issue be related to the new lamp? Can the lamp be intermittent? Or is it likely one of the other issues that others are experiencing in this thread, with the TV itself. I'm pretty sure its not an issue with the fan, I believe that is what I'm hearing every time I'm sitting waiting for the lamp to light up.

EDIT: It failed to light up again. The error code from Menu+Device was 34 - Lamp Abnormality. I'm going to exchange this lamp and hope for the best.

Just a bit of advice needed. I pulled the replacement bulb from my set before they carted it away and put my previous (still working) bulb in. I wondered whether it makes sense to sell it on eBay or Craigslist? It has around 1100 hours on it and was working fine when the chassis finally was pronounced dead a couple of weeks ago. I got it direct from Mits ($220) and its in the Mits carrier/box. Would be a great backup I figure.

Sure, why not. The Philips and Osram sell between $90 and $130 on eBay. Not sure how much you'd get for your open box item. Curious, what is the brand on it? Mits? Philips?

Sure, why not. The Philips and Osram sell between $90 and $130 on eBay. Not sure how much you'd get for your open box item. Curious, what is the brand on it? Mits? Philips?

Its actually got the OSRAM logo on the back of the bulb, but it also has a barcode on it with PN:915P020A10 and I still have the double boxed shipper/sleeve direct from Mitsubishi. This is a bulb in a new carrier, not a bare bulb. I couldn't find an Osram for $130 but did find a Philips for $135.

I was told not to buy on eBay because the bulbs might be seconds or not up to Mits replacement standards. Maybe that was Mits Tech Support BS, maybe not. I figure if I can get $65 shipped it'd be a good deal for someone. These are supposed to be good for 3000+ hours and the tech said it had almost 1100 on it. The old bulb I threw in the set had 3400+ when I swapped it out and it still worked pretty good when the mirror was clean!

I just replaced the lamp on my WD-52525 a couple of weeks ago. It has been fine for these couple of weeks and now all of a sudden I'm noticing it takes longer to light up the screen when powering on the TV. A couple of times it didn't light up at all. I took the lamp out to have a look at it (its labeled Philips) and it looks fine. Can this issue be related to the new lamp? Can the lamp be intermittent? Or is it likely one of the other issues that others are experiencing in this thread, with the TV itself. I'm pretty sure its not an issue with the fan, I believe that is what I'm hearing every time I'm sitting waiting for the lamp to light up.

EDIT: It failed to light up again. The error code from Menu+Device was 34 - Lamp Abnormality. I'm going to exchange this lamp and hope for the best.

I have a Mits WD-52725. I replaced my lamp about 6 months ago and had less than 200 hours on it (TV is in basement and only used for gaming). A few weeks ago I noticed it was taking longer for the screen to power up and then it finally went blank. I knew it wasn't the bulb because I put in the old (still functional) bulb I had on hand and still got no picture.

Fortunately the TV was still under warranty (5 year extended warranty expired in 4 months). Had a tech come out and he diagnosed the problem as a bad chassis and ballast. He took out the internal components and had Mits send them a new chassis/ballast. The repair company installed it last week and the TV is now fine.

It is certainly possible that your problem may be the same as mine. I hope not because from what I understand this is a $400-700 repair if the TV is not under warranty. Hopefully you can get this fixed cheaply. Keep us posted.

It looks like I am joining the blinking timer light club. Noticed it yesterday on our WD-52725, called Mitsubishi today and will be going through the process of getting a diagnostic preformed. Luckily the place we purchased it from (ABT Electronics) will do a free diagnostic if we bring the tv in, so that will happen sometime this week.
Our neighbors purchased the same model (after they saw ours and liked it so much 4 years ago). It also died this week.

It looks like I am joining the blinking timer light club. Noticed it yesterday on our WD-52725, called Mitsubishi today and will be going through the process of getting a diagnostic preformed. Luckily the place we purchased it from (ABT Electronics) will do a free diagnostic if we bring the tv in, so that will happen sometime this week.
Our neighbors purchased the same model (after they saw ours and liked it so much 4 years ago). It also died this week.


I had the blinking Timer light too before my TV died. As I mentioned above, I had to get a new chassis/ballast. Fortunatley the TV was still under my extended warranty.

Looks like I'll be joining the 2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1142582) thread, thanks to a great deal on a Mits 65" 2009 DLP (http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?sduid=109268&t=2068018). Given all of the known issues with this series, from what i've been reading, the replacement bulb for my replacement bulb isn't going to help.

As a matter of fact the bulb (for WD-52525) was just shipped to me today. I don't plan to open it, but I cannot return it either, so if anyone needs the bulb for a great price send me a PM.

After about 5 1/2 years of service, I think my 52725 is dead. While I was watching it the other night, the picture became really fuzzy. I turned the tv off for a few minutes and then back on and got some popping sounds and a steady flashing green light with the fan cycling on and off. After pushing the system reset button and letting it sit overnight, it doesn't turn on at all any more. After reading back through this thread, I have little desire trying to get this to work again. So, if anyone is in the St. Louis area and wants this tv for parts or feels like trying to repair it, it's yours. I have the original box, manual, remote, IR emitter cables, etc. Drop me a message and come by and pick it up.

Melonhead

Anyone contemplating a lamp change, take a look here;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1256432

After about 5 1/2 years of service, I think my 52725 is dead. While I was watching it the other night, the picture became really fuzzy. I turned the tv off for a few minutes and then back on and got some popping sounds and a steady flashing green light with the fan cycling on and off. After pushing the system reset button and letting it sit overnight, it doesn't turn on at all any more. After reading back through this thread, I have little desire trying to get this to work again. So, if anyone is in the St. Louis area and wants this tv for parts or feels like trying to repair it, it's yours. I have the original box, manual, remote, IR emitter cables, etc. Drop me a message and come by and pick it up.

Melonhead

If no one here wants it, put it on Craigslist for fifty bucks, someone will buy it.

Yeah, that will probably be my next step. I wanted to put it up here first since most of the regulars here would be more likely to need the parts or even have the desire to repair it.

I've had a wd-52725 for about 2 and half years now. I've replaced the lamp once and re-soldered some circuits pertaining to the red light (error 34) issue. I bought the repair kit from servicemanuals.vstore.ca which solved the issue.

My buddy crashed at my house the other night and woke up before me attempting to watch some TV. I'm pretty sure he tried turning the TV on and off a bunch of times and screwed with some buttons since the TV takes a long time to power up. The red light has reappeared with the same error 34 that happened previously. I've reset it a bunch of times an let it sit overnight.

I just want to know if anyone can possibly list the capacitors that need to be replaced to solve:

- Quickening the start up time for the TV
- Get rid of the purple/green wavy lines that change the color of the picture
- And solve the error 34 problem.

I would really appreciate it and plan on taking the TV apart as soon as I get this list.

Just wanted to complete this cycle.

I started visiting this and other Mits threads some 6 years ago now when I began researching, and then waiting for, the725 series to be released.

Well yesterday, I had the BGLOD infected set carted off when my new Panny 65VT25 was delivered.

Thank You! to all that have assisted me throughout all these years.

Does anybody have a list of other DLPs that use the same lamp as the WD62725? I had a set for a number of years and bought a spare lamp so that I could do a quick replacement when my lamp finally went. Before I got the chance to even install it my set started acting up and I ended up getting rid of it. That left me with a new lamp that I no longer need. I figured I'd try to sell it on ebay or something.

It looks like I am joining the blinking timer light club. Noticed it yesterday on our WD-52725, called Mitsubishi today and will be going through the process of getting a diagnostic preformed. Luckily the place we purchased it from (ABT Electronics) will do a free diagnostic if we bring the tv in, so that will happen sometime this week.
Our neighbors purchased the same model (after they saw ours and liked it so much 4 years ago). It also died this week.

An update on my problem..
The chasis needs to be rebuilt. Mitsu has offered to pay 1/2 of the repair costs, or about $250. They also offered us a WD-60738 for around $500. We are not sure what we will do yet, seeing as we have already paid $169 in labor to diagnose the problem with our original set (was needed so we could fax it to mitsubishi). If we could get them to put the $169 towards the wd-60738, that would be great, but we have to call them back.
Looks like I have some more research to do. Any suggestions?

An update on my problem..
The chasis needs to be rebuilt. Mitsu has offered to pay 1/2 of the repair costs, or about $250. They also offered us a WD-60738 for around $500. We are not sure what we will do yet, seeing as we have already paid $169 in labor to diagnose the problem with our original set (was needed so we could fax it to mitsubishi). If we could get them to put the $169 towards the wd-60738, that would be great, but we have to call them back.
Looks like I have some more research to do. Any suggestions?

I wouldn't put the money into the chassis rebuild, even if its done correctly, eventually it will wear out again, due to the poor engineering design. I had a rebuild done under extended warranty just before it expired, and I'm still having intermittent resets. I'm not sure if I'd take the deal on the 60738; I think that's a fair deal, but you may be back to deciding between going with a DLP with limited support or a flat technology, paying more for a comparable screen size.

That is what I was thinking too.

It looks like we will be getting the new TV. I talked to Mitsubishi and they would not credit me the $169 we have already paid (sort of understandable since that fee was paid to a 3rd party), but the place where we purchased the TV and had it serviced (ABT Electronics) said they will credit us that fee! So we will be getting a new 60738 in about 2 weeks once the order comes in.

Even though the diagnostic fee was higher at ABT (about $60 more than the places Mitsubishi recommended), I'm really glad we went with them, it made this process a little easier.
Also if anyone else is going through this same process, give Mitsubishi a call if you do not get a call back with an offer in a few days. The phone number showed up as "800 number" or "unknown number" on our caller ID, and they do not leave a message, so we missed their call the first time.

I’ve been a long time lurker on this thread, and have found it extremely helpful over the years. Especially, when it came to cleaning the mirrors, and the problems with the component inputs.

Just this week my 62725 died and I have the BGLOD, just 4 months after the extended warranty failed. I will be calling Mits today to get the whole process started. However, I was wondering if anybody had any tips on how to deal with Mits. I am not interested in having the set rebuilt, but if they are willing to make an offer on a new set, like I have seen in previous threads I would be interested.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jeff

When you first call Mitsubishi, explain your problem. They then asked for my zip code, and used that to find the 2 closest authorized Mitsubishi repair centers. Both where the ones that travel anywhere, so they came up as closest. You do not have to go with these places, you only need to have the set diagnosed by an authorized Mitsubishi center. Once the diagnosis is complete, you will need to fax the detailed repair to the number they give you, and then Mitsubishi will give you a call in the next couple of days with an offer.

When they give you a call, they will probably initially offer to pay 1/2 of the repair cost (~$250 in my case). I asked if they could do anything better, since 6 months ago Mitsubishi would pay for rebuilt chassis (~$300 I think) and the customer would pay the labor (the lady we dealt with at the repair place told us this).
Mitsubishi then said that they would evaluate it and call us back. When they called back, they offered us a WD-60738 for $498.25 (including tax).

We decided to go with the place we purchased the TV at (ABT Electronics) instead of the 2 places Mitsubishi gave us, because they have always treated us well and it turned out to be worth it in the end.

Our neighbors have the exact model we do (WD-52725) and they also got offered a new 60738 for the same price.

I would find out which service center will diagnose the TV for the lowest cost, because if you choose to get the new set, Mitsubishi will not refund the cost for the service call. A new set will then cost you $500 + whatever the diagnostic was, so the less the diagnostic costs, the better.

Thanks, I really appreciate the help.

I have a mitts WD62725 DLP. 2 problems, I installed a bulb cassette and the timer never reset, still have the solid yellow led. I also have what looks like static on the screen all the time, very noticeable on dark colors.

Any tips, I have had the set apart before 2x to clean mirrors so am pretty familiar.
Thanx, for any replys.

Okay, so my TV has started getting the green blinking light of death (just sounds better to say it out loud) after about 5 years of having the set. I have no extended warranty but hearing you all talk about it - it seems that I can still have Mits do something about it and possibly get another TV out of the deal? Is that correct?

As of now, I just unplug the set for 30 minutes or so and then the TV will stop blinking and power up but I know it's just a matter of time before it's completely dead.

Do I wait for it to die completely or can I go ahead and call now?

Call now and get it recorded.

pacofortacos you have a PM

A couple of things if you are into fixing your tv yourself.
tvrepairworld.com has nice instructions but the caps are only $5-10 and can be had at buy-capacitors.com

then I find out it is the ballast board!
I have found them for fairly cheaps as well.

But now I am checking craigslist locally for other broken sets with different symptoms to make one working set from 2 since the set is cheaper than the parts in it!

Oh so my story. i bought the 62725 in early 06 as the floor model. got it for 2200 taxes delivered and all and thought "score" and it worked great, but a couple of months ago it finally died and i knew it was not the bulb (replaced those before) Now at 2200/4+ years=$500/year that is pretty pricey by todays standards. Like buying a decent size flat panel every year!

Well I finally got around to looking to fix it and did a lot of searching, unfortunately found this forum last lol I should have known there is a forum for everything these days.

I will get 20 years out of the SOB if i have to replace every cap in it :D

Tearing it down was a good experience though and seeing the dust collected on the mirror would have left me with a poor picture, so I look at it like some good learning.

I may snag a broken one for $100 and fix it well worth it.

Stroker396

What did you use to clean the mirror?

Now your going to make me embarrass myself.

I tore the tv down every single screw. When I looked at the mirror it was dusty as hell from a 4yr build up. First I hit it with the compressed air but that was not enough. Then i looked away for a second and the kids were admiring their breath on the big mirror how it caused condensation. I almost lost it. GET!

so finally I figured well it is bugging me I wiped it with my dirty t-shirt (it had to be better than as it was). Anyways I figure before I finally put it back together I will clean it properly.

When I get to it (after the ballast arrives and i make sure it is all working again) The way I will/would do it is this.

With a lint free cloth and rubbing alcohol. It does not leave any residue or streaks. It removes any oils, fingerprints, you name it.

Be careful not to choose a fingernail polish that has added crap in it, but a straight ??? (forgot the name starts with an A, paint thinner) would do the trick as well.

Wow I almost lost it! I got the new ballast board today poped it in and fired it up. Sound came on and I made an premature prediction "Let there be light"

Ya I got the lamp light (Red). After two more tries, I see what looks like sparks coming from the ballast. So I removed the metal cover to better see what it was and fired it up again, only this time We've got liftoff! yes it is finally fixed!

Now to reassemble the details and clean the screen.

hint: never leave the screen within a mile of your kids.

Just thought I would update everyone on my experience with Mits. My WD62725 died a few months after the 5 year warranty expired. As suggested on this site I called Mitsubishi and explained the problem. They had me call a service center, so they could run the diagnostics test on the set, and confirm what I all ready knew.

The test cost me $85 dollars, which compared to some other posts on this thread, didn't seem like too bad a deal.

Once everything was sent in, Mits offered to pay half of the repair cost or let me purchase a 65638 for $500 dollars. I really don't like the silver on the 638 models and find the 738s much more appealing. Now they are sending my request to a review board and I should hear back from them tomorrow. I'll let you know if I get the 738.

I have to admit that with all of the problems everyone seems to be having with the 525, 725, and 825 series, it's hard to believe some lawyer hasn't started a class action lawsuit. Although, I am sure the only ones who would benefit would be the lawyers.

I have had a 62525 for about 5.5 years now and I have started to have a lot of the problems that I have seen posted on this thread. I have cleaned the mirrors periodically but nothing more than that.

I definitely have the green and purple wavy lines which I understand means I need to replace caps.

Then yesterday morning the picture got "static" and then just went to blue screen. I turned it off and figured I would check it after work. After work it had no picture and I got the red light for lamp needing to be replaced. No previous lamp warnings as in past.

I have a feeling that it is more than a lamp issue but wanted to get opinions on that before I order a new one.

Is it really worth it to pay someone to look at it and then try to negotiate with Mitsubishi? It seems like from what I've read that even if Mitsubishi offers me a deal then total cost to replace (including service check) will end up being in the $600-$700 range.

If it makes sense to buy a new tv, does anyone have any suggestions on a tv in the 60" range for under $1,000 (even if not Mitsubishi)?

Thanks in advance for your help.

The 2009 Mits DLP 60"/65"/73" is frequently on sale. For around $800, $900, and $1200 respectively.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=18951467

Set up an alert at slickdeals and fatwallet with the keyword "DLP".
http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2141988

In my mind at least. there is no way it makes any sense to pay any money toward a repair. Just look at the number of posts where someone either fixed it themselves or paid a repairman to basically authorize a replacement board from Mits then a few weeks after the repair, they are back right where they started. Also note the down time involved and then compare that the the prices fareal mentioned.

When faced with this same decision, I concluded that the most logical ($ vs. size) thing to do was to repalce my 62 inch w/ a 65 inch Mits DLP. I then went out and purchased a 65inch Panny 3D plasma. My actions don't always follow logic....


I have had a 62525 for about 5.5 years now and I have started to have a lot of the problems that I have seen posted on this thread. I have cleaned the mirrors periodically but nothing more than that.

I definitely have the green and purple wavy lines which I understand means I need to replace caps.

Then yesterday morning the picture got "static" and then just went to blue screen. I turned it off and figured I would check it after work. After work it had no picture and I got the red light for lamp needing to be replaced. No previous lamp warnings as in past.

I have a feeling that it is more than a lamp issue but wanted to get opinions on that before I order a new one.

Is it really worth it to pay someone to look at it and then try to negotiate with Mitsubishi? It seems like from what I've read that even if Mitsubishi offers me a deal then total cost to replace (including service check) will end up being in the $600-$700 range.

If it makes sense to buy a new tv, does anyone have any suggestions on a tv in the 60" range for under $1,000 (even if not Mitsubishi)?

Thanks in advance for your help.

For those of you that got replacements or discounts on your newer model, why did mits do this for you all? Did you still have a valid warranty? What number did you call? Great customer service either way.

Just a quick update.

While the TV is working again and it really turned out to be the ballast board (I am still only getting 315V to it). I have a feeling I am due for some more repairs as. 1. The picture still takes a long time to come on. Also I am not sure what I did and I will investigate it but the remote control is not working very well, it only seems to work at close range from a 30* angle with a long button hold!

I will enjoy it while it lasts, but I went to buy a broken 62525 for parts and the seller mentioned the newer 65" Mitsu for $900. Not an option for me but for those who want out of the V26 chassis something to think about.

@Curtis

I am one of them that got a replacement. I ended up with the 65838? The top of the line DLP from 2010....

I paid about $400 or $500 for it and it has an awesome picture. Much better than the 62525 I had before.

Mits did this while it was out of warranty due to the number of complaintes they have recieved about these. I always tell everyone to call Mits before trying to repair themselves... They should at least pay for the repair. I had a choice of getting replacement for price of repair or getting repair... Either way, I felt like this was the final time they would do anything for it...

@Curtis

I am one of them that got a replacement. I ended up with the 65838? The top of the line DLP from 2010....

I paid about $400 or $500 for it and it has an awesome picture. Much better than the 62525 I had before.

Mits did this while it was out of warranty due to the number of complaintes they have recieved about these. I always tell everyone to call Mits before trying to repair themselves... They should at least pay for the repair. I had a choice of getting replacement for price of repair or getting repair... Either way, I felt like this was the final time they would do anything for it...
Did you have to dispose of your old tV or did they hall it away?
I have a CRT type and am having issues but it is only 6 years old and warranty ran out last year.

They took my old DLP with them.

They were *Suppose* to take mine.... I guess they forgot it so I fixed it for $50...

they were *suppose* to take mine.... I guess they forgot it so i fixed it for $50...

sweet:d

well like many i have read here i bought mine on the spring of 2005.

And then the fun began, the screen was crooked, the took it in and centered it. 6 months later bulb goes out. under warranty i ask tech why did this happen, "Reply was you know these electronics they do that some times".
Okay I was a master technician for automotive for over 20 years, i get that electronics go out sometimes so no big deal .right?

9 months later bulb goes out, replaced under extended warranty this time.

Must have been a power surge he said, i have a $350 line cleaner surge protector and battery back up, it and all the AV units plug into.

This started in Boise ID, Move to Minnesota 3 year ago on a job transfer,
6 months later bulb goes . They replace the bulb again.

A short time later about 1 month before the warranty runs out I get the bulb warning light is going bad on the tv.
Then it stops working all together the next day.

they come out inspect it , order a whole new chassis...which amounts to pretty much everything but the speakers and mirrors and the Case...lol

takes 1 week.... tech gets it running reprograms it it's up and running.


6 months later bulb burns out, I pay for new bulb, replace it



Yesterday 15 months after a whole new chassis i am watching golf and the picture turns green and then off. Red light flashes system shuts off.

I wait and restart it , it sounds like it threw a rod bearing,bang bang bang real fast then it shut down again. I recycled the start and reset pulled the bulb box out,(bypassed the trigger) and i can feel the optical motor banging for a few seconds before it shuts off.
I spent $2500 at Best Buy for this plus the warranty of $350 and cable and etc, $3300 i think was the total. oh and the bulb i bought at $115,

$3415 dived by 5 years = $683 a year, wow and now it needs at least $500-750 in repairs, to last how long? 6 months , a year?

After seeing this many people the same problems i am Amazed they even make DLP TVs at all anymore.

In an automotive world that would be a lemon law buyback by the manufacturer .
I tried the email given back a few pages it did'nt work.

Anyone have aphone number or email that has worked recently for Mitsubishi?

thanks
Gary

@Gary

So you read this thread? There are stories starting about 5 pages ago. I had mine and had problems with it, called mits, mits replaced Tv with newer one for nominal fee. Call Mitz before fixing... If they send tech out make them pay for it, When tech gets there ask him to right bid for somewhere in the 400-500 dollar range. He knows they are just going to replace it, so he may be willing to. I got mine for $454 I believe. Have them pay shipping and tax or get the upgrade to the 738? or the 838?

Talked to the rep gave my info said they would help after a tech inspects the tv. Got 2 numbers to call for tech to come out give an estimate and then fax that and my proof of purchase to them. And then they will definelty help me out she said.

I didn't push that i new too much,went over the light staying on the bang bang of the optical engine , it appears. Told her the history and that i never had a tv go bad, let alone have one with this many problems even after they replaced the whole chassis.

We are leaving for vacation so this may have to wait til we get back , but it looks like form what i have seen on this forum they have treated people fairly, although paying any money out of pocket for a 5 year old $3k tv after major repairs is questionable at best.
So are those of you who got help happy ?

How much $$$

What did they do for you???

Thanks for all the help this forum has supplied no matter what happens ;)
Evewn if i do have to solder in new parts.... :D :eek:
Gary

So I got a 65738 with a stand for 650. I think I posted this before but my 65725 had two major issues in the past two years. One was luckily under warranty and the recent was a bad light engine. I have to say, I didn't have to bitch too much before they offered me a deal. It was Mitsubishi will pay for the part and I would have to pay labor. I was looking at about 250 in labor to fix a 6 year old set. I took the new 65738. Mitsubishi worked with my local dealer and they called me and brought it out and I gave them a check. I need to call them and see if I can buy an extended warranty.

Just thought I'd tell the forum of our experience.

We bought a WD-52725 in 2005 for $2999.99. We replaced the light in 2007 and 2008.
In May of 2009, we experinced the Blinking Green Light of Death, necessitating a no charge chasis replacement from Mitsubishi.

Fast forward to July 2010----the BGLOD again ! Mitsubishi replaced our (2005)52725 with a (2010)60738, and also replaced the stand due to the upgraded size. This was all done at NO CHARGE !!! (exclusive of the $107.00 we paid for the diagnostic service call from an out of town company - which was expected)
No replacement charge, No tax charge, No delivery charge !!!!
And---all within a 3 week time period !

We are happy with Mitsubishi and were very treated fairly.

I note some on the forum have been charged replacement charges, and I wonder why--------we were never even asked to pay anything additional.

Just thought I would update everyone on my experience with Mits. My WD62725 died a few months after the 5 year warranty expired. As suggested on this site I called Mitsubishi and explained the problem. They had me call a service center, so they could run the diagnostics test on the set, and confirm what I all ready knew.

The test cost me $85 dollars, which compared to some other posts on this thread, didn't seem like too bad a deal.

Once everything was sent in, Mits offered to pay half of the repair cost or let me purchase a 65638 for $500 dollars. I really don't like the silver on the 638 models and find the 738s much more appealing. Now they are sending my request to a review board and I should hear back from them tomorrow. I'll let you know if I get the 738.

I have to admit that with all of the problems everyone seems to be having with the 525, 725, and 825 series, it's hard to believe some lawyer hasn't started a class action lawsuit. Although, I am sure the only ones who would benefit would be the lawyers.

Just a quick update to my previous post. Mitusbishi did give me the 65738, as I had requested. I was able to purchase it at the same place where I bought my 62725. The price ended up being 500.00 plus tax. The store did offer me the extended warrantly, so I purchased that too. If I don't use the warranty during the 5 years, I get half my money back, so I ended up getting the extended warranty too. They also took the old set with them when they dropped the new one off.

Thanks everyone for all the help over the last several years. It has been appreciated.

@Cljm: WOW! You must have gotten in on this before the flood came this year.

My Story:
March 2005: Purchased 62525 TV, Had Tech out to just adjust TV.
2006-2007: Had same tech out, VGA port was fuzzy, Tech replaced a board
2007-2008: Same tech, Said color wheel bad, Mits had him replace bulb instead
2009: BGLOD, Same Tech, Chasis Rebuild, Out of Tv for 1 month
2010: BGLOD, Same Tech, Out of Warranty, No charge, Estimate for $457 to repair, Mits offered Repair for free, or replacement for $457 for 65737, Got 65837 for same price, Delivered, Enjoy Tv


I really enjoy the new TV, Was suppose to have old one taken, but Tech must have forgotten :). Fixed old Tv for $50 (Bad power board), Got a WS-55859 from freecycle, Ordered parts for it for $14.67 (10 Compacitors + Shiping). Replaced 7 Compacitors and everything works! So now I have 1 65" DLP, 1 62" DLP, and 1 55" Rear Projection TV, all capable of at least 1080I HDTv, For a total of $515 (This Year).... Total would be $3515 or so...

@Cljm: WOW! You must have gotten in on this before the flood came this year.

Total time: 3 weeks from problem to solution !
July - August 2010

You were offered a better deal than me. The want me to pay 600.00 for new set plus 200.00 shipping. You can get free shipping online just about anywhere. Fighting with them now. Its ridiculous!!

Were you still under warranty?

Were you still under warranty?

No....not under warranty---we bought the set in 2005.
And, absolutely no "fights" at all...the whole situation was corrected within 3 weeks at no charge.

Our experience with Mitsubishi may be difficult to believe, considering what others have said they have gone through on top of paying additional charges, but, it is what it is. And, I really have to give Mitsubishi credit---they really stepped up to the plate !

I hope your situation works out for you.

Bought 62725 in Oct. 04.
Fixed several caps and put in switch. Lasted 6 months.
Called Mitsu couple weeks ago.
Sent out local tech on their dime.
He quoted $550 parts and labor to fix.
Mitsu offered 65638 for $650 not including shipping.
Asked for 65738 instead.
Paying $1100 for 65738, no tax, white glove shipping.
Better than the best deal I found local for $1850 total.

so for those who still have a 52725, are you a lucky owner with a tv that has no problems so far and no repair costs? sad to hear all this crap with those models back 6 years ago. i have no warranty with mine except with frys and that is ending this month. my tv is 100 percent perfect and flawless. on it's second bulb. i cleaned the inside out last year and that made a difference in the black levels with letterbox movies. all solid on the bars and no grey or white showing thru. i'm holding out on a new tv or projector and will wait unless my tv suddenly up and dies.

so for those who still have a 52725, are you a lucky owner with a tv that has no problems so far and no repair costs? sad to hear all this crap with those models back 6 years ago. i have no warranty with mine except with frys and that is ending this month. my tv is 100 percent perfect and flawless. on it's second bulb. i cleaned the inside out last year and that made a difference in the black levels with letterbox movies. all solid on the bars and no grey or white showing thru. i'm holding out on a new tv or projector and will wait unless my tv suddenly up and dies.

My 62525 is getting close to 6 years and no repair costs. Mitsubishi had to replace the DM board at the beginning because the HDMI input had static on the audio. I've replaced the bulb once since getting it and have the original bulb as a spare in case the replacement goes out. I've cleaned the mirrors twice and that's about it for maintenance.

Back to this thread after a long hiatus. I tried to read through a lot of the information but need some help. I have a 52725 I purchased back in 2005 and really haven't experienced any problems with it up to now other than bulb replacement. About 2 weeks ago I had the lamp go out so went and got a replacement at ABT here in Chicago. My problem is since replacing the bulb my picture is no longer nearly as good as it was. Not sure how to exactly describe it but there seems to be background noise or a certain "waviness" to the background image. Is this a sign of the caps going bad? I got an oem lamp and am wondering if this could be contributing to the problem. Not really enthused about sinking a lot of money into the set but if a simple fix is available I would do it. The picture is not unwatchable but certainly not up to the level it was a month ago.

Back to this thread after a long hiatus. I tried to read through a lot of the information but need some help. I have a 52725 I purchased back in 2005 and really haven't experienced any problems with it up to now other than bulb replacement. About 2 weeks ago I had the lamp go out so went and got a replacement at ABT here in Chicago. My problem is since replacing the bulb my picture is no longer nearly as good as it was. Not sure how to exactly describe it but there seems to be background noise or a certain "waviness" to the background image. Is this a sign of the caps going bad? I got an oem lamp and am wondering if this could be contributing to the problem. Not really enthused about sinking a lot of money into the set but if a simple fix is available I would do it. The picture is not unwatchable but certainly not up to the level it was a month ago.

Check for the "waviness" when feeding the tv a 480i source via component cables. As these things fail, HD signals mask some of the problems with the wavy lines. I have a Tivo connected to mine, via component video, and it is set to output 720p. However, when the Tivo restarts, it outputs a 480i signal for some of its "welcome" screens, and that picture is awful. The wavy lines qould give me a headache if I had to watch like that for any length of time. Once the Tivo comes back online completely, the lines aren't as noticeable.

So I would suggest if you have a device that can output multiple resolutions (PS3, Tivo HD, cable box, even a DVD player that can do both progressive scan and non-progressive 480i), try them out at non-HD resolutions. If you get bad wavy lines, your TV is probably on the decline slope. Mine has been this way for at least a year, but it isn't watched very often.

I did have a scare last week when we lost power briefly, and found the TV later on was showing what I thought was the blinking green light of death. Unplugging and plugging back in resolved the issue.

Check for the "waviness" when feeding the tv a 480i source via component cables. As these things fail, HD signals mask some of the problems with the wavy lines. I have a Tivo connected to mine, via component video, and it is set to output 720p. However, when the Tivo restarts, it outputs a 480i signal for some of its "welcome" screens, and that picture is awful. The wavy lines qould give me a headache if I had to watch like that for any length of time. Once the Tivo comes back online completely, the lines aren't as noticeable.

So I would suggest if you have a device that can output multiple resolutions (PS3, Tivo HD, cable box, even a DVD player that can do both progressive scan and non-progressive 480i), try them out at non-HD resolutions. If you get bad wavy lines, your TV is probably on the decline slope. Mine has been this way for at least a year, but it isn't watched very often.

I did have a scare last week when we lost power briefly, and found the TV later on was showing what I thought was the blinking green light of death. Unplugging and plugging back in resolved the issue.

I am hooked up to a Comcast DVR and can switch the resolutions easily so I will do so and see what the picture looks like. I am fearful I am on the slope you mention.

No....not under warranty---we bought the set in 2005.
And, absolutely no "fights" at all...the whole situation was corrected within 3 weeks at no charge.

Our experience with Mitsubishi may be difficult to believe, considering what others have said they have gone through on top of paying additional charges, but, it is what it is. And, I really have to give Mitsubishi credit---they really stepped up to the plate !

I hope your situation works out for you.
Im assuming they did this because you had already had the chassis rebuilt once, do you think? Still fighting with them. Have had no TV in living room for 1 month!!

Im assuming they did this because you had already had the chassis rebuilt once, do you think? Still fighting with them. Have had no TV in living room for 1 month!!

Yes, perhaps that was the reason, I really have no idea---just that they took care of everything efficiently and quickly. I think it may also help to go a bit "up the line" instead of just the cursory first contact 800 # where you just leave your name and info, and they say someone will call you back within 2 days.

Yes, perhaps that was the reason, I really have no idea---just that they took care of everything efficiently and quickly. I think it may also help to go a bit "up the line" instead of just the cursory first contact 800 # where you just leave your name and info, and they say someone will call you back within 2 days.

Hi. I'm about to make "the call" as my twice-repaired TV has acquired the purple bars/wavy lines ... again. How do you go "up the line?"

Thanks

Hi. I'm about to make "the call" as my twice-repaired TV has acquired the purple bars/wavy lines ... again. How do you go "up the line?" Thanks

Twice repaired by Mitsubishi ?
When we called, we asked for satisfaction without waiting 2 days for a call back. A couple of "hold ons" and "connect tos", and we were given a case # right away, and then had the authorized repair service give us a diagnosis the next day. Resolution came the day after----replacement of TV and stand. Mitsubishi really stepped up to the plate !

Twice repaired by Mitsubishi ?

Yep, early 2008 (bad FMT board, took 3 tries to get a good one!) and last summer (a bad power supply board, I think; it was the BGLOD). Both times by people the extended warranty people recommended (but Mitsubishi was sending them the parts).

Called yesterday and got a ref#. Now I need to make an appointment with someone to get the official diagnosis and repair estimate, probably CEI who did the repair last year.

Yep, early 2008 (bad FMT board, took 3 tries to get a good one!) and last summer (a bad power supply board, I think; it was the BGLOD). Both times by people the extended warranty people recommended (but Mitsubishi was sending them the parts).

Called yesterday and got a ref#. Now I need to make an appointment with someone to get the official diagnosis and repair estimate, probably CEI who did the repair last year.

Good Luck to you---- I hope you have as easy a time as we did.

Does anybody know which board controls the audio? FMT, DM? I am working on replacing caps. I suspect it is the DM board, because I replaced some caps, put the TV back together, and as soon as I plugged it in, I heard static coming from the right speaker. The left speaker has no static, it works normally. If I can fix this static problem, I will have the BGLOD fixed, and the purple distortion problem fixed.

Does anybody know which board controls the audio? FMT, DM? I am working on replacing caps. I suspect it is the DM board, because I replaced some caps, put the TV back together, and as soon as I plugged it in, I heard static coming from the right speaker. The left speaker has no static, it works normally. If I can fix this static problem, I will have the BGLOD fixed, and the purple distortion problem fixed.

At the very beginning when I first bought the 62525, the HDMI input was producing static and Mitsubishi had to replace the DM board. I'm almost sure it's the DM board.

Thanks! I am so close. I hope by replacing more caps on the DM board that will fix the static.

I have a WD62825 that I will be disposing of in Houston. It was one of the first with the early chassis rebuilds and is again suffering from the scrolling lines on component video as well as some sparkling pixels in a few areas. HDMI picture still looks great. I now have the yellow bulb warning failure and don't want to spend $100 on a new bulb so after 6 years I am glad to be done with Mitsubishi. Let me know if you want it.

I was watching HDTV in my basement on my newly fixed 52725. Today was the day I would bring it upstairs. So, I installed the chassis and put the cabinet back together. I turned it on one more time to make sure it still worked. It did. When I got it upstairs and turned on, it wouldn't turn on. I got the red status light. It blinked 1 and 3. The error code I got was code 37. I took it apart and saw a couple pinched wires under the chassis that were going to the DMD or Lamp fan. I unpinched the wires. They looked ok and not broken. But, I still get the same error.

Error code 37 is "Engine (DMD or Lamp) Fan failure". Error code 1 3 is "DMD or Lamp Fan Stopped"

I am so disappointed. I've struggled with this TV for months. Finally got it working beautifully, only to have this happen. Can somebody help me out with what to look for to fix this issue? Thanks

This is a shot in the dark but anybody use an r50 universal remote with a 52725? I am trying to find the right code to put into the remote and hoping it already has all the dicrete codes for the DLP in its database. That probably doesn't make sense unless you have an r50.

I got my WD-62725 TV upgraded yesterday due to the capacitor problem.

Have an excellent condition factory stand for the 62" that is going to be disposed of unless someone can use it. Also have a brand new spare bulb that has never been used. Located in Torrance, CA if someone can use these items.

Frank

I just had my bulb blow (or so I thought) and whial looking for a replacment I found these forums of the problems lurking in these units, so I went ahead and tried to turn the tv on a few time more and it turned on,, but it gives random colors and petterns even the on screen menu is garbled and flickers and none of the inputs show or have audio at all even the over the air tuner gives nothin and the tv will turn off after about 10 minutes of no signal and the red lamp light comes on again,, which was the reasoning of thinking the lamp was blown and the I have pulled the lamp out and it looks just like new,, don't know if there is supposed to be a noticeable difference, but looks clear and new. and,, well I'm a tinkerer anyway so I dove into the idea that the lamp light could be comming up because of the power supply caps and there they were 2 swollen 10v 3300uf caps, I have ordered replacements from digi-key. I have replaced a few in my days as computer technician so if this dosn't work it won't because of bad soldering, I just wanted to let people know my symptoms and I'll fallow up with the out come.. new bulb new caps any little fixes I find I will try but I got this tv for free so I'm not going all out if it is a big problem especially after reading how much money people have sunk into these tvs.. thanks for reading. and any other ideas on the random flashing screen and 1 out of 4 power ups are welcome

Thanks to finding this forum Mitsubishi offered me a WD-65838 for my WD-62725 that had its 2nd chassis go out last week. 1st chassis went out in summer 2009 under warranty. Extended warranty ran out 2-29-2010. At first they offered me a WD-65738 for $750.00, but I told them my WD-62725 had netcommand and they said I could get the 65838 for the same price. I will try to negotiate a lower price when they call back wednesday.

Local tech center in bloomington checked out the tv, and as i expected the optical engine is bad. This was replaced along with the entire chassis 16 months ago, $550 now to have it repaired.
i will fax the info over to Mitsubishi and see what there reply will be.

I don't know that I can trust a DLP anymore from them... all electronics have some quirks .. but these have been going bad constantly over a short period of time. That is just not good engineering if you ask me.

i have $3500 in this set with the extended warranty which covered 1 chassis adjustment,picture was crooked out of the box, 3 bulbs in 3 years ,and 1 chassis replacement in the 4 year , and 1 more bulb out of my pocket this year.

All this does is add up to a big fricking headache to me... :(

Stay tuned
G

I was offered a 65638 as replacement for my crapped out 62725 (purchased 2004). I would pay $680 for it and another $150 for shipping. Also paid $80 for technician to tell me it was broken. You can buy this tv new for $1200. Seems like I'm getting a raw deal compared to some reports.

I can also upgrade to a 65738 for an additional $500 (so $1180 plus ship). Do you think it is worth it? Can be purchased on amazon for $1600.

Thanks.

I was offered a 65638 as replacement for my crapped out 62725 (purchased 2004). I would pay $680 for it and another $150 for shipping. Also paid $80 for technician to tell me it was broken. You can buy this tv new for $1200. Seems like I'm getting a raw deal compared to some reports.

I can also upgrade to a 65738 for an additional $500 (so $1180 plus ship). Do you think it is worth it? Can be purchased on amazon for $1600.

Thanks.

You should call your rep back and tell them that your 62725 had netcommand and there only model with it now is the 65838. You should not have to settle for less options. I was given the 65838 for the same price as the 65738 because of this.

I have replaced the caps and reassembled and hit power and nothing but timer blinking for about 5 minutes....... BUT I unplugged waited 30 secs and plugged back in and the tv is working like new, and like any do it yourself project I have a few screws left over. lol but I have run it all day playing dvds and OTA tuner and no problems,, if you don't hear more about it then it is still working I will add more if there are any changes of course,, thank to this forum I have saved a bunch.

I replaced the caps with nichicon UHE1A332MHD caps

Thanks hozer797. I took your advice (replacement TV should have netcommand like original TV) and called them back early Friday afternoon. The CSR said she thinks I'll have to pay the difference if I want the upgraded TV but will ask her supervisor to call me back. No call yet so maybe have to wait until Monday.

I hope I get deal like you, otherwise I'll be hard-pressed to throw good money after bad and get another Mitsubishi TV...

Another thing, why should I have to pay for shipping just because the original store is in Houston. There are scores of TV dealers in San Diego. Mitsubishi can just as easily ship to a local store as shipping one to Houston...

You were offered a better deal than me. The want me to pay 600.00 for new set plus 200.00 shipping. You can get free shipping online just about anywhere. Fighting with them now. Its ridiculous!!

That's not a horrible deal. My situation was similiar to everyone else's (BGLOD). My offer was based upon the estimated repair cost by the technician. The repair est was $738. I was told they would pay half of cost for repair. My technician told me they would do that and to tell them that is not good enough. They came back with the offer that for full repair price ($738) they would ship me the new 2010 model 65838. That included everything (tax,shipping,haul away). Again, my tech had told me they would do that. He pointed out, and this is key why everyone should take this deal, the older models are really only 720P/1080i. The newer sets are 1080P. Also, the newer gaming systems, such as PS3 and Wii don't look right or have the correct connections.

So, your $800 is not terribly out of line. Maybe on the higher side, but still decent. It appears everyone gets slightly different offers based upon original purchase price, previous repair history, previous model, etc.
I know I originally only paid $2200 for mine back in 2005 (floor model), while many other people paid over 3K and 4K, depending when they bought it. They are the ones getting better deals on this replacement program. Also, previous repairs are getting lower priced replacement deals.
Bottom line, for $738 I got a new diamond series 65838 and LOVE it ! Just pay it, you won't regret it. Besides, how are you living without TV for 4 weeks ??? My kids would be driving me nuts !

Check for the "waviness" when feeding the tv a 480i source via component cables. As these things fail, HD signals mask some of the problems with the wavy lines. I have a Tivo connected to mine, via component video, and it is set to output 720p. However, when the Tivo restarts, it outputs a 480i signal for some of its "welcome" screens, and that picture is awful. The wavy lines qould give me a headache if I had to watch like that for any length of time. Once the Tivo comes back online completely, the lines aren't as noticeable.

So I would suggest if you have a device that can output multiple resolutions (PS3, Tivo HD, cable box, even a DVD player that can do both progressive scan and non-progressive 480i), try them out at non-HD resolutions. If you get bad wavy lines, your TV is probably on the decline slope. Mine has been this way for at least a year, but it isn't watched very often.

I did have a scare last week when we lost power briefly, and found the TV later on was showing what I thought was the blinking green light of death. Unplugging and plugging back in resolved the issue.

Need some help with a similar issue that I just noticed (mainly horiz lines on analog (480i)ch's, and less noticable but still there on HD ch's and sometimes what seems like wavy lines on analog ch's) on a 5 yr old 62725 that has never had a problem yet. This set isn't used a lot. I'm haven't ruled out the Motorola DCX3400 HD DVR connected via component cables as the culprit since I only notice the lines on ch's from the DVR and do not on any other of the sources connected to the set. For example, I also have a cable card (carrying both analog and HD CH's) and an external OTA roof antennna (bringing in HD and SD digital CH's). On both of these 2 sources the picture quality is still great with NO noticeable lines on non-HD resolutions. With the chasis related issues that folks have had, I would like to know if I would also notice the wavy lines on other sources connected to the set such as cable card and ext OTA antenna.
I have noticed some sensitivity/changes when changing the DVR resolution settings (improves the lines noticed, but they're still there especially with analog CH's). The lines aren't there when the set is first turned on.. takes a while.. Replaced the DCX3400 DVR with another box, but still see the problem. Everything else such as cables/connections have been rock solid for a while. I'm thinking it's the set, but I'm baflled about the lines not noticed with both the cable card and ext antenna inputs.
Appreciate any help or input on this. Thanks..

Need some help with a similar issue that I just noticed (mainly horiz lines on analog (480i)ch's, and less noticable but still there on HD ch's and sometimes what seems like wavy lines on analog ch's) on a 5 yr old 62725 that has never had a problem yet. This set isn't used a lot. I'm haven't ruled out the Motorola DCX3400 HD DVR connected via component cables as the culprit since I only notice the lines on ch's from the DVR and do not on any other of the sources connected to the set. For example, I also have a cable card (carrying both analog and HD CH's) and an external OTA roof antennna (bringing in HD and SD digital CH's). On both of these 2 sources the picture quality is still great with NO noticeable lines on non-HD resolutions. With the chasis related issues that folks have had, I would like to know if I would also notice the wavy lines on other sources connected to the set such as cable card and ext OTA antenna.
I have noticed some sensitivity/changes when changing the DVR resolution settings (improves the lines noticed, but they're still there especially with analog CH's). The lines aren't there when the set is first turned on.. takes a while.. Replaced the DCX3400 DVR with another box, but still see the problem. Everything else such as cables/connections have been rock solid for a while. I'm thinking it's the set, but I'm baflled about the lines not noticed with both the cable card and ext antenna inputs.
Appreciate any help or input on this. Thanks..

I was the one spiff responded to and unfortunately my 5 year old set went downhill quickly. Lines became worse and on some material I had very faint purple stripes in the background. Rather than sink any money into the set I replaced it with a 54" Panasonic G25 and couldn't be happier with the picture. While I loved my DLP I think 5 years is a pretty short lifespan.

They called back again today after I told them last week that offering me the parts cost was just throwing good money after bad with the same offer nothing new! They will pay for the parts only!!!
$555.00 to replace the light engine $350 for the part, $180 labor, plus tax.
This is insane to repair this TV and have this break down again sometime over the next year. Clearly the design and engineering for these models was not supported by quality parts, and or a combination of both.
My offer to put any money towards an LCD model or the like would have closed this case forever.
I was a big believer in Mitsubishi and their customer support until now; I will now have $4000 in a 5 year old TV. No way should a TV in this era need repairs as often as these models have. 5 bulbs, 1 chassis, 1 light engine, in 5 years. If this were a new car you know where I would be....
I doubt I will ever buy another TV from Mitsubishi, and from the looks of the repairs to mine up to this point that will be very soon.
I can buy a 42 in LCD for this money right now! Seems a waste to me...
I still am not sure I want to accept this offer, but with limited funds to pursue other avenues I feel I have no other choice.
Glad to see this worked out for all the others on here, maybe I was too nice... ;)
Thanks for the help guys and gals...
Gary

I heard back today from Mitsubishi. After a little pleading, I was offered the 65838 for $1000 plus $150 shipping. This would be like getting $850 for my dead TV, since the 65838 costs around $2000 at a retail store. So, I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on it because I'm not sure I can get a better deal. I tried but the CSR said this was "the best" deal she could offer.

I wonder if they'll let me get the 73838 for this price...

Oh, this is the 2011 model.

http://www.compusa.com/applications/searchtools/item-Details.asp?EdpNo=6277535&sku=M402-6016


A WD60638 for $799........

Our 52725 had the BGLOD and after reading this forum and making a weak attempt to fix it we decided to give Mitsubishi a chance to do the right thing. Our set cost us around $4k counting tax and an extended warranty, which we never had to use, for five years. The customer service people tried to lowball offer us, and I was getting tired of the whole thing and told them I was not happy with the 'final' offer and wanted to talk to the supervisor, not in three or four days but right now. The whole attitude seemed to change. The CS rep assured me I would get a call from the supervisor the next day. Well I didn't, but the CS rep told me the supervisor said we could have the 65738 for our estimated repair price, $780, with tax and white glove delivery included. This was the model we wanted, so we took the offer, but I do wonder if I had been hard-nosed about it if I could have gotten a little better offer, but hey, football season is starting and we had a big blank spot in our living room where a TV was before. I do have to give Mitsubishi credit, it seems they tried to avoid going down this road and tried to fix the problems but have now realized a replacement is the best way to save their reputation. The key seems to be to ask to speak to a supervisor, and things sped up for me. They left the disposal of the old set up to me :D. Good luck to you all.

Just one more thing, the 65738 has an awesome picture, better than the old one ever did.

There will be one fan on the back cover, 1 fan on top of the electrical chassis you will see on the left, one fan under the lamp assembly - it might be harder to see installed but if the lamp lights then you might be able to see it moving, a small fan on the rear of the light engine - easy to see, and one fan on the tunnel at the ballast on the right - hard to see it.

Your code says light or light engine fan right? If so check those. No not normal fans but they are easy to get, I have one of each laying here if needed.

I have the replacement fans and today started trying to replace them. This is not an easy job. Not at all...

The easiest fan to find and test is the one on the back cover. Unfortunately, that's the the fan that failed. The next fan I was able to find is the one under the lamp assembly. I was able to unscrew the fan rack (for lack of proper terminology) which attaches the fan to the lampt assembly, so both dropped from the assembly. However, for the life of me I can't figure out how to get the fan out. It is free and loose below the lamp assembly but it's large and there's not enough space to pull it out.

Any advice?

I haven't the foggiest idea what the electrical chasis or light engine look like so I'm not even going to ask about those because I suspect the lamp light is the culprit and want to test that one first.

Please help!

Hmm, that one is the toughest out of them all. I "think" it has to come out with the light engine but am not positive.

What I would do, just unplug your fan and plug in the replacement fan - it doesn't have to be put in place for testing.
That will tell you if your fan is bad.

Did you take the back cover off?

The electrical chassis - is the part where all of the boards are - if you remove the rear cover it is the big piece that all of your input connections go into - component cables, etc.

If you remove the rear cover, you will see all of the fans except the light fan.

Just follow the wires for the fan you want to test, unplug the installed fan and just plug in the replacement fan into the electrical harness..

The only thing is with the rear cover off, you have to reinstall the small side cover on the right (as looking from the rear) side - there is a switch that the cover has to make.

I heard back today from Mitsubishi. After a little pleading, I was offered the 65838 for $1000 plus $150 shipping. This would be like getting $850 for my dead TV, since the 65838 costs around $2000 at a retail store. So, I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on it because I'm not sure I can get a better deal. I tried but the CSR said this was "the best" deal she could offer.

I wonder if they'll let me get the 73838 for this price...

Oh, this is the 2011 model.

During my "negotiations", we discussed upgrading to the 73" from the 65" for an extra $600. That was in addition to the $738 replacement price. I decided not to do it, as I had such bad luck with my first TV that died after 5 years. I figured wasting some money ($738)on a tv that would die shortly was better than wasting $1338. Now in hind sight, I am kicking myself for not doing it. For what we all paid for these tv's 5 years ago, 1300 would have been a steal.
Oh well... The answer is NO, they will not give the 73" for same price, but they will let you upgrade: 1. The price difference will be around the same increase as the "retail" difference, and 2. NOT if you have already signed the contract and paid for the 65".

Let us know how much extra they will charge you for the upgrade....

I just found this thread and hadn't realize that these TVs had such issues. I guess it's my turn with the Blinking Green Light. Wish me luck. If not, it will very difficult for me to buy another Mitsubishi Tv unless they have improved them. Have they improve or fixed the issue with the new Tvs?

Al

I just found this thread and hadn't realize that these TVs had such issues. I guess it's my turn with the Blinking Green Light. Wish me luck. If not, it will very difficult for me to buy another Mitsubishi Tv unless they have improved them. Have they improve or fixed the issue with the new Tvs?

Al

No the newer ones just have different issues. For instance, my 73833 DLP doesn't work with 3D even though it's supposed to be 3D ready. I'm waiting for a firmware update from Mitsubishi and also I had to have the TV repaired within a year after I bought it because the lights in front kept blinking on and off even while it was turned off.

Oh boy. I hope I can get mine back to life.

Btw, is anyone familiar with this Mits repair kit with CD and is it worth it?
http://www.tvrepairworld.com/mitsubishi_repair_kits

Thanks...Al

No the newer ones just have different issues. For instance, my 73833 DLP doesn't work with 3D even though it's supposed to be 3D ready. I'm waiting for a firmware update from Mitsubishi and also I had to have the TV repaired within a year after I bought it because the lights in front kept blinking on and off even while it was turned off.

Oh boy. I hope I can get mine back to life.

Btw, is anyone familiar with this Mits repair kit with CD and is it worth it?
http://www.tvrepairworld.com/mitsubishi_repair_kits

Thanks...Al

No I am not familiar with the kit, but my understanding from much reading on this forum is that the repair for the BGLOD is a very cheap fix. These kits probably contain all the parts ($10 worth of capacitors) and directions. The reason our repair expense is so high is that the repair technician must come to your house, remove the whole chasis and then send the whole thing to Mitsu for repair/replacment. Apparently it is very labor intensive. But all the people on this forum said it is a straight forward/easy (still time consuming) fix. I, on the other hand, chose to go with the Mitsu offer of a new TV, since I was told that the older models are only 720p and do not connect properly to PS3. Also, and less important now, they are not 3D capable. If Mitsu offers you a new TV, you will be getting a much newer tv, better PQ, better connectivity. I say do it. Of course, you are looking at approx $700 to $1000 replacement vs. $65 for you to fix it......
I guess you have to make that decision.

So I have had this damn blinking green light for almost a year...in the past I just unplug TV from socket, hit reset and its back to normal. However, the last power surge has apparently killed my TV. All of this you have heard, experienced yourselves from the sounds of it.

I read in a few replies is that Mitsubishi may agree to replace the TV even though it is out of warranty? My TV is the 62825 and I have owned it for around 5 years.

Any help or advice on getting this P.O.S. replaced would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

After 2 failed attempts to repair my 52725, Mitsu offered me a replacement, but it was to large for where it would go in the house. I asked if I could get store credit and they agreed. I got $645 credit at the store where I purchased the Mitsu back in 04. With that I got a RCA 40 inch 120 mhz lcd. Very happy with that.

I opened the tv and found I had 3 swollen caps on the FMT PCB (C*F19, 21 and 22); all the other caps were not swollen. However, between the possibility of it not working right again and old technology (720), I decided to let this tv go. I probably could've replaced the caps and maybe it worked (my understanding that the repairs or rebuild boards may or may not work). I took a seat in the Big Screen Store and watch some football today on Mits 73 and 83" tvs and they are huge and look good, but after my experience, I'd rather have quality and longevity than a huge screen that may crap out. I just no longer feel comfortable with Mits DLP so I'm looking at the Panasonic 65" Plasma. The Plasma picture looked way better than the DLPs. I sure hope I get a longer life out of it. I don't want a replacement Mits DLP, I'd rather they give me $, which I know won't happen, so I am forgoing even dealing with Mits. Good luck to all of you with the new tvs.

As someone said in one these many Mits thread - surprising there's no class action suit against them with all the known and documented issues. I wish everyone that owns a Mits DLP much luck with their purchase.



No I am not familiar with the kit, but my understanding from much reading on this forum is that the repair for the BGLOD is a very cheap fix. These kits probably contain all the parts ($10 worth of capacitors) and directions. The reason our repair expense is so high is that the repair technician must come to your house, remove the whole chasis and then send the whole thing to Mitsu for repair/replacment. Apparently it is very labor intensive. But all the people on this forum said it is a straight forward/easy (still time consuming) fix. I, on the other hand, chose to go with the Mitsu offer of a new TV, since I was told that the older models are only 720p and do not connect properly to PS3. Also, and less important now, they are not 3D capable. If Mitsu offers you a new TV, you will be getting a much newer tv, better PQ, better connectivity. I say do it. Of course, you are looking at approx $700 to $1000 replacement vs. $65 for you to fix it......
I guess you have to make that decision.

Just got my new 65838 delivered on saturday. All I can say is wow! Compared to my 62725 with Bluray playing on both sets, its awesome. So much brighter, and clearer picture quality. Definetly worth the $751.05 I had to pay for replacement.

I settled on the Panasonic TCP65s2.

I kept all the WD62725 power boards, remote and manual so if anyone is in the DIY mode and is interested in this stuff let me. I'm officially out of the DLP game.

Consider posting this link on facebook.

See my post just above yours. I no longer trust Mitsubishi DLPs. I couldn't stand the heat so I got out of the kitchen. To get something out of them, you will probably have to get those parts first and then if it doesn't work out they may be more willing to provide an upgrade or supplement a new purchase. As I stated, I don't even want to go through the trouble so I just bowed out.

Good luck

This is my first post, but I've been lurking (and learning) at this forum for a long time. I also have the BGLOD, and the best Mitubishi offered was to cover the parts cost. My tv just turned 2 years old last month! That offer is a joke, even Sony is doing better than that! Mitsubishi should be providing free refurb sets or hugely discounted new sets for owners of these junk sets!
There is a Facebook page just getting started about this issue. It is "I have a defective Mitsubishi tv" If everyone on here with the problem posts to that page, maybe Mitsubishi will wake up, but it doesn't look like it. I have tried many emails, and 1 phone call, and all were useless.

... My tv just turned 2 years old last month! ...

I don't think you're on the right forum if your TV just turned 2 years old, then you don't have a WD XX525 or XX725. These TV's were manufactured in 2004. I got mine in September or October of 2004. You must have got yours in 2008 if it's 2 years old. Try the forum that is your TV's model.

I agree with you. While waiting forever for Mitsubishi to even acknowledge my emails, I bought a Sony KDL-60EX700. So far seems like a nice tv, but hey, anything looks better than a black screen with a little green blinking light! :rolleyes:

I never email them, I call them so that I can talk to a real person right away. Even though most of them are hard to understand, it's better than email.

I am really interested in them i you still have please

Do you still have stand and bulb?

During my "negotiations", we discussed upgrading to the 73" from the 65" for an extra $600. That was in addition to the $738 replacement price. I decided not to do it, as I had such bad luck with my first TV that died after 5 years. I figured wasting some money ($738)on a tv that would die shortly was better than wasting $1338. Now in hind sight, I am kicking myself for not doing it. For what we all paid for these tv's 5 years ago, 1300 would have been a steal.
Oh well... The answer is NO, they will not give the 73" for same price, but they will let you upgrade: 1. The price difference will be around the same increase as the "retail" difference, and 2. NOT if you have already signed the contract and paid for the 65".

Let us know how much extra they will charge you for the upgrade....

I backed out of the deal. It would have cost $1100 for the 65838. (An upgrade to 73738 would've been an extra $600, like your offer.) Then I heard about the Paul's TV deal and jumped on it. Apparently, I AM getting the 73738 for $1400 (inc. tax). It is in transit and I will know for sure on Thursday. So, in the end, Mitsubishi's replacement offer isn't exactly the best deal you can find...

Can anyone confirm that wd-62528 model also suffers from the bad cap problem?

does anyone have pictures of dm, fmt, power board caps that need to be replaced for 62528 model? It seems like these boards are different then other models with the cap problem. Thanks in advance for any help!! FYI I get the green blinking light, but it stops after ~70s, no power on.

And the answer is ....................................... YESSSSSSSSS Tv is working good as new again!!!! Very easy $5.60 parts repair!! although I did also buy the service manual for $15; so really a $21 repair. Still beats the hundreds of dollars the service company would have charged to swapout the power board.

I feel that this is a DIY repair that most people with a small amount of electrical knowledge and a little soldering/desoldering ability can easily accomplish in about 2-3 hours.

Thankyou so much to noplasma and other forum members for the help in getting our TV working again.

I'm sorry I didn't take any pics; but you will find the pics provided by noplasma clearly show the power board and bad capacitors.

I was afraid that the 25V caps would be a little too big around, but they do just fit.

If someone has a site that they would like to host the service manual I will gladly upload it there.

Thanks again to all that contributed to this thread.

I will be happy to answer any questions anyone has on this repair.

My Tv continued to work over the next year but eventually lost all inputs except HDMI. I used an HDMI switch for a couple of months but eventually got tired of manually changing switch and could not play the Wii on TV. That's when i had a tech come out and tell me it would cost $800 to repair. I then called Mitsubishi for help. They said to have it repaired and then send them the bill and they would see what they could do. I told them that I wasn't about to pay that amount without knowing how much they would help. They said it was my only option at that time.
I decided then to bite the bullet and buy a new 52" Samsung LCD. I pulled the 62525 from my entertainment center stuck it in a corner and let it sit there for almost 2 years.
Over the last month i started following this and other Mitsubishi threads and noticed that Mitsubishi was covering parts and in some cases replacing Tv's. So I called Mits and asked what my options are now ( I now have the BLOGD), they said to have a tech come out and diagnose problem and for me to fax the repair estimate to them. Cost $65 for the estimate which came to $450 with no guarantee that it would solve the problem. I called Mits again to see what my options were. I was told that they would get back to me with in 2 days. Today they called and offered me a WD-65738 for the $450 repair cost. I thought that it was a very reasonable offer and accepted it.
( I should also say that I never lost my cool and was always very polite to the customer service reps that I talked too).
Thanks Mitsubishi for a happy ending to a 4 year nightmare.

ltw9,

What number did you call? I'm manually switching HDMI devices since my analog section has wavy lines.

Hmm, that one is the toughest out of them all. I "think" it has to come out with the light engine but am not positive.

What I would do, just unplug your fan and plug in the replacement fan - it doesn't have to be put in place for testing.
That will tell you if your fan is bad.

Did you take the back cover off?
Long overdue update on my situation.

I tested several fans by plugging replacement fans in and trying to operate the TV. The problem fan is the DMD fan. I unplugged the old fan from the
connector, plugged in the replacement fan (while the old one was still in place), and voila -- the TV worked again.

However, there was one big problem. While I could see the fan connector I couldn't see the fan itself. I took an educated guess/gamble and removed a large, hevy metal object from the back of the TV, this revealed the tiny little 2" fan that brought my big 62" TV to its knees.

I took out the old fan, put in the new fan and just like that my TV is alive.

At this point I was worried about putting everything back together. There were a lot of parts pulled out and a ton of screws of different shape. Fortunately I had the foresight to take many pictures along the way as I disassembled the set. I got everything back together and delayed the inevitable death of the TV for a little bit longer.

I feel like the TV is on borrowed time and I'm very lucky to have brought it back to life. The longer this TV holds up the better and cheaper its replacement will be.

I settled on the Panasonic TCP65s2.

I kept all the WD62725 power boards, remote and manual so if anyone is in the DIY mode and is interested in this stuff let me. I'm officially out of the DLP game.

As I mentioned in a previous post the PC input on my 62725 results in a very wavy, unusable picture. So far all the other inputs I use are OK but it sounds like this is the beginning of the end.

Would replacing my power boards with yours (assuming they are in good working order) resolve this problem?

1-800-332-2119 ext. 8

it is most likely the caps on the format board!

Going on 11 months since I repaired my TV and its still going strong (knock on wood). Picture still looks good, but I think I could use a new bulb soon as the brightness is not that great. I use HDMI exclusively and it seems to work well with no problems.

Its a 62725 model I bought for $90.00 locally in Lawrence.

Add me to the list of chassis failure a known defect btw, they tried to pull the replacement crap on me. I said fix the TV passing the cost to the consumer @ 800.00 is just plain wrong. Waiting for a super to call back yea right!

I also have the GBLOD in addition to the waavy picture from the VGA port. On top of that my lightbulb just blew for the 1st time (bought the TV in 12/04 for $4500 warranty and all). Thank goodness for this as well as other threads, I was ready to just trash the TV. Called the Consumer relations # 1-800-332-2119 option 6, told me what they've told the majority of you; get an authorized Mitz repair shop to give an estimate, fax it in. I then will probably have 2 options; 1) They assist with the repair cost (from talking to a repair man here sounds like they pay half) or 2) get a replacement TV. The lady on the phone wouldn't give me too much more info without an official estimate. For anyone wondering yes you will eat the cost of getting a repair tech in.

The questions I have for the group is while Mitsubishi's response sounds like it is standardized (i.e. everyone is getting the same options pay for fix or get replacement) what doesn't sound the same is the deal everyone is getting for their replacement TV.
1)Is it if you had a 62725 you get offered a 65838 and if you had a 55725 you get a 65738?
2)What kind of warranty are you getting on the new TV (I assume the standard 1 yr parts/labor)? Is there an option for an extended warranty?

I've been combing these posts trying to compare what everyone is getting and I'm not seeing a repeatable pattern (I could be missing it). Just want to have some idea before they call me back to know how much I need to haggle.

They called me back on Friday I just checked my messages today, and heres the skinny. Now they are counter offering to pay for half the repair which comes to over 300 and imo is not worth it especially when it's a known defect whzat a joke:p. So why pay for another defective board with bad caps and such and in a few years down the road your back to square one. Option one is not even an option imo.They also lowered their shipping by 100 and will replace the TV for 650 some bucks.

Heres my dilemma this was my aunts TV she bought in 04 I really don't want to pay anything out of pocket for this unit. But now it's either I chuck it in the trash or try to find someone that is looking for a new TV and get the new 3d one for 650. Seems like a good deal for 6 but I'm stuck making this decision. I have no room for another TV I just bought a 50VT25 a 20 guage SA shotgun and a bunch of ammo for sport trapping I'm tapped! Lol

Ok I just countered back just for kicks saying I would pay for the repair you guys cover the parts! lol The replacement I quoted was a little off it's 621.00 delivered without the stand (200.00 btw):eek: it's the WD-60738. So basically when they first offered the replacement @ 800 they weren't being nice in any way they just shaft you on the TV stand on the counter offer.

To be honest, I have no idea. Maybe someone will chime in who has done the DIY thing.

Sorry for the delay. I have not been around lately.

As I mentioned in a previous post the PC input on my 62725 results in a very wavy, unusable picture. So far all the other inputs I use are OK but it sounds like this is the beginning of the end.

Would replacing my power boards with yours (assuming they are in good working order) resolve this problem?

Finally finished the final step in replacing my 5 yr old 62725 which was rarely ever used. It even had the original lamp. Started getting the wavy lines but never had any other issues prior to this. Called Mits and opted for a replacement vs repair. Mits originally offered me the 65638 for $496 which I declined. I stated that I wanted 65838 for the same price. Later they countered and would only offer me the 65738 for $496 (the 838 would've have been around $700). They were willing to increase the warranty to 2 yrs on the replacement, and also offered a stand for $200 which I had no use for. I would have opted for the 838 for that price since it's the only one of the 3 that has Netcommand, but I had no intention of actually replacing my old set with another Mits DLP. I then worked with the retailer of my 62725 and got the store credit from the 738 and wound up getting a very sweet deal on a Samsung LCD. So, I'm officially done with Mits/DLP. They made great CRT sets years ago (many of which I still have), and were a leader back then. I really liked the 62725 but do have to say this replacement deal worked out and strongly suggest it vs repairing a set that might be a can of worms down the road. I appreciate the input I received from this forum/others and hope this might assist anyone else going through this.
I also have the GBLOD in addition to the waavy picture from the VGA port. On top of that my lightbulb just blew for the 1st time (bought the TV in 12/04 for $4500 warranty and all). Thank goodness for this as well as other threads, I was ready to just trash the TV. Called the Consumer relations # 1-800-332-2119 option 6, told me what they've told the majority of you; get an authorized Mitz repair shop to give an estimate, fax it in. I then will probably have 2 options; 1) They assist with the repair cost (from talking to a repair man here sounds like they pay half) or 2) get a replacement TV. The lady on the phone wouldn't give me too much more info without an official estimate. For anyone wondering yes you will eat the cost of getting a repair tech in.

The questions I have for the group is while Mitsubishi's response sounds like it is standardized (i.e. everyone is getting the same options pay for fix or get replacement) what doesn't sound the same is the deal everyone is getting for their replacement TV.
1)Is it if you had a 62725 you get offered a 65838 and if you had a 55725 you get a 65738?
2)What kind of warranty are you getting on the new TV (I assume the standard 1 yr parts/labor)? Is there an option for an extended warranty?

I've been combing these posts trying to compare what everyone is getting and I'm not seeing a repeatable pattern (I could be missing it). Just want to have some idea before they call me back to know how much I need to haggle.

Last year I had the blinking green light and needed the chassis replaced under a 3rd party warranty. This time the TV is completely dead. Died while watching and now will do nothing. The indicator lights will not light and it's completely unresponsive to resets. I'm out of warranty so thanks to this forum I called Mits customer service and I've having a repair tech come out on my dime to send Mits an estimate. Not sure what they will do but I bought the set in 10/2004 and paid $4600 with a 5 year warranty and this is the second major issue. Hopeing the offer a replacement as I don't want another repair.

Got my offer for my replacement TV. Originally they offered me a 65738 for $800, 65838 for $900. Later they came down to $700 for the 65738 (shipping included). This is really frustrating knowing everyone is getting different prices. Also these guys say they'll only take cash/money order/check no credit cart. How are you a multinational company and you can't even process a credit card? For you guys getting these sub $600 offers are they including shipping as well? If not what are they quoting you for shipping?

Thanks in advance

Got my offer for my replacement TV. Originally they offered me a 65738 for $800, 65838 for $900. Later they came down to $700 for the 65738 (shipping included). This is really frustrating knowing everyone is getting different prices. Also these guys say they'll only take cash/money order/check no credit cart. How are you a multinational company and you can't even process a credit card? For you guys getting these sub $600 offers are they including shipping as well? If not what are they quoting you for shipping?

Thanks in advance

I'm in Florida and they originally told me $150 for shipping but negotiated down to $100. That is drop off deivery not white glove!
I believe the offer they make you is based on how much money you have spent out of pocket for repair service up to the point of offering a replacement.

After much back and forth decided on 65838 for $750. Mitsubishi was offering it for $900 if I bought through them, $150 of it was shipping. Contacted my local dealer and was able to purchase it from him thru Mitsubishi which saved me the $150 shipping charge. They also offered me the 65738 fo $550+$150 shipping, decided the 838 was worth the extra $200 (hope I was right). So hopefully this helps the next person, you can save yourself some money by working thru your dealer.

After much back and forth decided on 65838 for $750. Mitsubishi was offering it for $900 if I bought through them, $150 of it was shipping. Contacted my local dealer and was able to purchase it from him thru Mitsubishi which saved me the $150 shipping charge. They also offered me the 65738 fo $550+$150 shipping, decided the 838 was worth the extra $200 (hope I was right). So hopefully this helps the next person, you can save yourself some money by working thru your dealer.

Mine 52725 died a year ago, 2 weeks before my extended warranty was up. After 2 failed attempts at repair over a 4 month period, Mitsu wanted to offer me a discounted replacement. I wanted nothing to do with them anymore or any of their products. Besides where I had the TV could not fit a 68 inch set. After much discussion with them, I finally convinced them into giving me store credit where I had purchased it. They offered me $645 which was more than I expected. I took it and purchased a 40 inch RCA 120 mHz Bravia for a net cost to me of less than $200.

So, my recommendation is try to go for store credit and get today's technology, not outdated dlp.

I thought Bravia was Sony's Brand name?

I thought Bravia was Sony's Brand name?

Your right. It's a Sony mot RCA.

We bought a WD 62525 from Best Buy about 4 or 5 years ago. It was a floor display so we got a discount and we did not buy the extended warranty. The lamp burned out soon afterwards, which wasn't a surprise, and the one year manufacturers warranty covered the cost of replacing the lamp.
Not long after the one year warranty expired we began having the BGLOD. After researching and considering all my options I decided to do the cap replacements myself. It has worked flawlessly since.
Then the day after I left home to return to my overseas assignment on a 28 day rotation, my wife told me the tv began to make a loud grinding sort of noise and would not power up. So now I'm thinking a fan and/or the power supply has quit.
My question is this; Do I try to continue with making repairs myself or go ahead and initiate a case with Mitsubishi for a replacement? Will they work with me after making one repair myself without a certified service rep, or am I screwed?

:confused:

My question is this; Do I try to continue with making repairs myself or go ahead and initiate a case with Mitsubishi for a replacement? Will they work with me after making one repair myself without a certified service rep, or am I screwed?

:confused:

Since you didn't have an extended waranty and there is no record of service, I think your choices are to try to repair it again or cut your losses and get rid of the boat anchor and get a nice new led.

We bought a WD 62525 from Best Buy about 4 or 5 years ago. It was a floor display so we got a discount and we did not buy the extended warranty. The lamp burned out soon afterwards, which wasn't a surprise, and the one year manufacturers warranty covered the cost of replacing the lamp.
Not long after the one year warranty expired we began having the BGLOD. After researching and considering all my options I decided to do the cap replacements myself. It has worked flawlessly since.
Then the day after I left home to return to my overseas assignment on a 28 day rotation, my wife told me the tv began to make a loud grinding sort of noise and would not power up. So now I'm thinking a fan and/or the power supply has quit.
My question is this; Do I try to continue with making repairs myself or go ahead and initiate a case with Mitsubishi for a replacement? Will they work with me after making one repair myself without a certified service rep, or am I screwed?

:confused:

If you don't tell them you worked on it yourself, and the work is neat enough to look professional, how would they know? The problem you now have doesn't sound related to anything Mits would cover anyway.

'Loud grinding noise' sounds like a color wheel failure, not a fan problem. If you can replace caps on a board, a color wheel replacement should be easy.

If you don't tell them you worked on it yourself, and the work is neat enough to look professional, how would they know? The problem you now have doesn't sound related to anything Mits would cover anyway.

'Loud grinding noise' sounds like a color wheel failure, not a fan problem. If you can replace caps on a board, a color wheel replacement should be easy.

Yeah...
After more reading I agree it could be the light engine. It's hard to troubleshoot over the phone. It'll just have to wait till I get home. In the meanwhile, what is the best source for a light engine?
Also do these things self destruct on power up or are there some advanced symptoms?
Anything you guys could contribute would help formulate a plan of action once I get home.

Well, I'm 2/2 so far. Fixed mine this time last year and its still going strong (knock on wood), and picked one up for my sister for $35.00 plus 11 caps (9 1000 microfarad and 2 3300 mF) and its working great.. Well, there are small wavy lines on the rca inputs but nothing on antenna in or component or hdmi. Still, its not right, so I'm going to pull the chassis again and replace all caps on the Format board. I'm seeing a few others on the KC craigslist section so I might just pick up another 52 or 62 inch TV and see if I can fix it. First I need to get some more caps!

Prior to replacing the caps this weekend on my sister's tv, it had the red lamp light. both 3300 mF caps had blown and leaked elecrolytic fluid.

What's the best/cheapest replacement lamp to get for a WD-62725 (lamp part # 915P020010)? I did a quick check on ebay and I see you can buy "bulb only." Does anyone have a seller to recommend on ebay or elsewhere?
Thanks so much for any suggestions!

What's the best/cheapest replacement lamp to get for a WD-62725 (lamp part # 915P020010)? I did a quick check on ebay and I see you can buy "bulb only." Does anyone have a seller to recommend on ebay or elsewhere?
Thanks so much for any suggestions!

i've used the rivervallyelectronics guy a couple times in the past 3 years. good communication and fast shipping. bought the bulb by itself and installed it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/915P026010-915P026A10-LAMP-BULB-MITSUBISHI-/370157114568?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item562f1554c8#ht_3215wt_1138

Hi All...

I also have a WD-62725 and got the BGLOD about 2 months ago. After researching the net and reading tons of forums, I found Tbully's PPT and ordered the caps I needed to try to fix it. I replaced the 4 caps on the DM board, 2 + 4 on the PWR board, 2 on Terminal and 4 on the FMT board along with the SMT caps on the lower left corner (about 18).

I put everything back together, powered it up and BGLOD went away after about a minute. Before I even had a chance to hook up my Fios box to see the results, the BGLOD came back on. Unplugged the power for a while and plugged it back in and BGLOD.

I pulled everthing out again, checked and reseated all connections, checked fuses but everything looked good. I put everything back together again for the 2nd time but leaving the FC connector on the FMT board unplugged to see if that would allow the system to reset, but it still kept blinking green.

I probably have connected and disconnected the chassis about 4-5 times already and checked everything countless times and still keep getting the BGLOD.

Is it safe to assume that while the FC connector isn't connected to the FMT board, the board isn't getting any power to it, thus I can eliminate it from troubleshooting?

Can I possibly have a bad new cap in the DM board? I was going to replace all 4 caps again since i ordered extra and see if that'll help.

will it still be possible to try to work with Mitsubishi and try to negotiate something with them after the fact?

I had mine repaired once. I knew that Mitz was offering replacements for some sort of money but I wasn't interested. This was the second Mitz TV that I owned that had a design defect that caused early end of life. Bottom line was I didn't take the deal. I did some research on the replacement TVs they were offering at the time and they were experiencing cap problems also. I spent $2100 on a 60 inch Sony LED lit TV and I am done with the pain that this TV gave me over the last year. It seemed it would act up when I was out of town.

All that aside, and the reason for my post was, it was my experience that in the last few months that I had mine I could reset the BGLOD and it might go away for days. I finally gave up and took it to an electronics recycler. You may not have fixed the TV by replacing the caps that you did. It seems that it you don't do them all you are basically just kicking the can down the road.

Good luck on your decision.

Llanonite, you need to check if it is a fan or the color wheel, I doubt you need a light engine - the color wheel is replaceable.

Just worked out my replacement deal with Mitsubishi for my 62725. I got a 65738 for $600 shipped. I need to get rid of the old one now. I removed the chassis and believe the problem is in the power board. I have a voltage drop between the test points. This was a replacement chassis from last year and the light engine and lamp are good.

I have a WD52525 I got pretty cheap. Didnt work. went through and replaced the swollen , poped caps. 2 of the 3300uf 10v, 1 of the 1000uf 10v and 2 of the 100uf 16v looked bad. TV fired up and lamp came on. I am now not getting a signal through the ANT 1 or 2 inputs. The Comp and S-video inputs work fine. Just cant get the OTA signal or any signal from the RF side. just static. I swapped Signal boards and still no luck. Also the Card reader on the front of the set works fine.
I have the service manual, I can read circuit layout, I have Basic DMM, solder gun, But I am by no means a repair expert.
ANy ideas on were to start?

Thanks
Dhack

I have a WD52525 I got pretty cheap. Didnt work. went through and replaced the swollen , poped caps. 2 of the 3300uf 10v, 1 of the 1000uf 10v and 2 of the 100uf 16v looked bad. TV fired up and lamp came on. I am now not getting a signal through the ANT 1 or 2 inputs. The Comp and S-video inputs work fine. Just cant get the OTA signal or any signal from the RF side. just static. I swapped Signal boards and still no luck. Also the Card reader on the front of the set works fine.
I have the service manual, I can read circuit layout, I have Basic DMM, solder gun, But I am by no means a repair expert.
ANy ideas on were to start?

Thanks
Dhack

Any time you replace bad caps on a board, if a certain value is leaking, make sure you replace all caps of that value & voltage on that board. Then think about replacing all the caps of similar values of the same cap manufacturer and series. The bad capacitor problem is a batch problem.

The tiniest problem with a cap indicates it is one of the bad batch. Look at the score marks on top of the caps, any discoloration in them means it's bad. Also look at the bottom, some of them go bad by pushing out the bottom plug. Make sure the sides are smooth, sometimes the aluminum under the plastic sleeve gets eaten through and is covered by the plastic, but you will still see swelling there. Some bad caps are obvious, some are very subtle.

Finally! I've had the authorized service guys out to my house several times to diagnose the TV but every time they showed up it was working fine, or at least ok. But at night it was unwatchable! I finally told them to come get the damn thing, take it back to their shop, plug it in, turn it on and leave it in until they saw the problem. So wouldn't you know, when they showed up, it was messing up (but not as bad as it usually dies).

Anyway, they said it needed a new DM board and it'd be ~$450. I told them to give me a written estimate that I could fax to Mitsubishi. So I'm waiting on that.

For those who've successfully negotiated a deal for credit, not a replacement, how'd you go about it? Did you lie and tell them you just wanted to buy a new Mits locally or were you up front with them and told them you didn't want another Mits? Which I don't; I've been following the xxy38 thread and it seems like a lot of them are having problems. Not that there seems to be any perfect TVs out there ... :-( but I'm thinking a Panasonic 58VT25 would be acceptable; I still like my 42G10 even with the rising black levels.

Thanks

Finally! I've had the authorized service guys out to my house several times to diagnose the TV but every time they showed up it was working fine, or at least ok. But at night it was unwatchable! I finally told them to come get the damn thing, take it back to their shop, plug it in, turn it on and leave it in until they saw the problem. So wouldn't you know, when they showed up, it was messing up (but not as bad as it usually dies).

Anyway, they said it needed a new DM board and it'd be ~$450. I told them to give me a written estimate that I could fax to Mitsubishi. So I'm waiting on that.

For those who've successfully negotiated a deal for credit, not a replacement, how'd you go about it? Did you lie and tell them you just wanted to buy a new Mits locally or were you up front with them and told them you didn't want another Mits? Which I don't; I've been following the xxy38 thread and it seems like a lot of them are having problems. Not that there seems to be any perfect TVs out there ... :-( but I'm thinking a Panasonic 58VT25 would be acceptable; I still like my 42G10 even with the rising black levels.

Thanks

I would like to hear this too...

Mine seems like it might fail any day now. I turned it on this weekend at one point and I had sound, but the entire screen was filled with randomly colored pixels. From a distance it almost looked like a plaid pattern. An unplug/replug got it functional again. I am noticing that the HD picture via component from a Tivo S3 is deteriorating (strange static like grain and horizontal lines), and 480i content is unwatchable (wavy lines). I did have the power board replaced under warranty while it was still covered by my Best Buy extended warranty.

I almost WANT the damn thing to die so I can get a different TV (and hopefully get Mits to offer some store credit at the store I bought it from).

(Just curious - how much did the diagnostic cost you?)

$65

Any time you replace bad caps on a board, if a certain value is leaking, make sure you replace all caps of that value & voltage on that board. Then think about replacing all the caps of similar values of the same cap manufacturer and series. The bad capacitor problem is a batch problem.

The tiniest problem with a cap indicates it is one of the bad batch. Look at the score marks on top of the caps, any discoloration in them means it's bad. Also look at the bottom, some of them go bad by pushing out the bottom plug. Make sure the sides are smooth, sometimes the aluminum under the plastic sleeve gets eaten through and is covered by the plastic, but you will still see swelling there. Some bad caps are obvious, some are very subtle.

Thanks for the general Info. But am am looking for a bit more specific info. like were on the board and what board would cause the tuner not to work.
But again thanks.

I had to open my mouth...

I was cleaning the carpet last night with the rug shampooer and popped a breaker. Flipped it back on, and the TV that was on the same circuit, is now flashing the timer light fast.

It has been a great year with it working, but looks like its time to take it back apart. I couldn't even get it to work properly with the reset button on front. I let it sit all night unplugged and plugged it back in and still nada.

dhack, I think you are looking for the FMT board. There are a few clusters of 1000 uF caps on there if I remember correctly that need replaced, even if they look good.

I had to open my mouth...


dhack, I think you are looking for the FMT board. There are a few clusters of 1000 uF caps on there if I remember correctly that need replaced, even if they look good.

Thanks found a couple bad one a few days ago on that board and it started working.


Was wondering is there a fix for the DM fan running all the time?
Read somewere that is may have been wired backwards or it may be a firmware update.
Any info out there TV working great but fan noise is very annoying

thanks
Dhack

got mine working again. I followed tbully's guide and replaced most of the SMT caps on the FMT board and it started working somehow. I lifted one of the pads on a 4.7 mf cap, but was able to scratch the top layer back enough to see a little copper and soldered a thin magnet wire lead to the pad, then to a leg of a cap, and its working.

Llanonite, you need to check if it is a fan or the color wheel, I doubt you need a light engine - the color wheel is replaceable.

I found one fan not working. The DMD fan. Would that cause the TV to not power on at all, not even an LED?
And is there a way to check the color wheel without taking it apart?

Ok read thru most of this thread and I guess this is just a poorly made set.
I really cant believe you spend upwards of 3k for a tv and its life expectancy is three years.

Im experiencing a blue spot at the top right side of the tv and yellowish tint. its not unwatchable but its highly annoying when i think how much money i forked out for this thing.

I was going to by a plasma but I thought this had a great picture so I went with it instead. For the most part the first two years with it were awesome. Its been a great tv up until now. Recently replaced the lamp and two months later i noticed this. So would my issue be the dm board, and should I call mitsubishi. Thanks

Josh

Ok read thru most of this thread and I guess this is just a poorly made set.
I really cant believe you spend upwards of 3k for a tv and its life expectancy is three years.

Im experiencing a blue spot at the top right side of the tv and yellowish tint. its not unwatchable but its highly annoying when i think how much money i forked out for this thing.

I was going to by a plasma but I thought this had a great picture so I went with it instead. For the most part the first two years with it were awesome. Its been a great tv up until now. Recently replaced the lamp and two months later i noticed this. So would my issue be the dm board, and should I call mitsubishi. Thanks

Josh

I'm not sure what you mean by "...and it's life expectancy is three years." The XX725's were made in 2004 so if you still use it today, it's lasted 6 years, not three. Six years is still a short time in my opinion but I wanted to get clarification on your statement. How long have you had it?

my model the wd-62530 was manufactured in 2006 and i bought it brand new in nov 2007.
so its been about 3 yrs for me. im just curious is mitsubishi going to stand by their product or is it going to be like pulling teeth. i was planning on buying 65738 this january, but if its only going to last me three years i might reconsider.

My 62725 had the cap issue. I called mits and got the typical fax the estimate in for a replacement bit. I called in the servicer and got an estimate of 489. Mits offered me a replacement 65738 for the 489 bucks. A good enough deal for me. It took a month and about 6 calls talking to foreigners that I couldn't understand. After the third or fourth call, mits tells me the deal is going through the original seller. I call the seller when instructed, was asked if I wanted the 5 yr extended warranty which I purchased for 400 bucks since it includes all bulbs. I had the same warranty on the 725 and it paid off handsomely over the 5 yrs. The lady says it will be delivered Friday. I get it last Friday with the expectation of paying somebody 489 for the tv with a check on delivery. They take out the old set, install the new one, hand me a receipt with a 0.00 balance, and walk out the door. I believe that somewhere in the foreigner's conversations they screwed up their numbers. After all, it took me 3 conversations to convince them they had used the numbers in my zip code as my phone numbers. Lol.

I have a 52525 that's had the cap issue, I replaced the 3300mfd's, and the 1000mfd's on the ps board, the 1000mfd's on the DM, then out of caps, I noticed the 4 1000mfd's on the FMT also swollen, as well as 2 1000mfd's on the term-2 I replaced them with 820mfd's and it would not boot, so I tried 1200mfd's still it will not boot, if you remove the 4 pin FC connector on the FMT it boots and after the FC connector is plugged in again, works fine

any ideas

I have a weird issue with a 62725 I just picked up. Plug it in, and there is no power to anything. I took the chassis out and the fuse is good, but the caps are wrong. Where there should be 3300 uf caps there are 2200 uf caps. There are other weird caps on the board that dont belong as wel. Is this a mitsubishi refurb, or has someone dinked around with it and hosed it up? There are also connectors on the back of the power board that I do not remember seeing on my other sets I've fixed. hmm..

Got another working using Tbully's guide. I am still having issues with the above power board though on another TV. Some people just should not be working on things they know nothing about.

ok I have fixed 2 of these now and have 2 working sets. Not too bad for less than 100$ investment, and several hours pouring over the posts on several forums.

The problem is the picture off of the 480I broadcast from directv is terrible. Yes I know Directv sucks and I am dumping them in Jan after the NFL package is done. But I would like to enjoy the fruits of my labor and watch and enjoy a few shows before January. The OTA HD is excellent and I am enjoying it.
Any adjustmsent sugestions anybody can make wouild be great. Currently I am going from the Driectv box to the set with an S-video cable. its either S-video or Coax thats all the outputs my reciver has.

thanks
dhack

Llanonite,
What do you mean by "not power on at all" ? Do you get the click when you hit the power button?

If not is your switch made on the cover?

DMD fan doesn't come on until after the click. If the other fans are on, it must be at least partially powering up. Try cleaning and the spin the dmd fan by hand.

You can check the color wheel by sound - you can hear it spin up and down, or by removing the lamp and looking in with a a flashlight when you power it up - lamp door switch must be made though.

I purchased my WD62725 on 9-24-05 i just blew my 3rd bulb and have major static in the picture. After reading all the post I called Mits and went off on them. They want an estimate from an authorized Mits dealer sent to them. Do I want a high est. or low est.? Sounds like some people got a credit toward a new Mits. some got option to buy a TV at repair cost. At this point I'll take what ever they give me for this POS!

I had a chasis replaced 13 months ago and starting experiencing the same problems again. I now have no picture but I do have sound. This is the same thing that happened last time. The tech came out the first time tried replacing caps to no avail. Sent in to get new chasis or rebuilt anyways. This time he shows up looks at the front says it is my light engine and in two minutes he is gone. Why wouldn't he even look at the chasis given it's history? Should I ask them to check the chasis and make sure? Can you really diagnose the problem without looking in the back of the tv? By the way I also have the GBLOD. This is how I new I had a problem.

Any advice would be great.

My 62725 had the cap issue. I called mits and got the typical fax the estimate in for a replacement bit. I called in the servicer and got an estimate of 489. Mits offered me a replacement 65738 for the 489 bucks. A good enough deal for me. It took a month and about 6 calls talking to foreigners that I couldn't understand. After the third or fourth call, mits tells me the deal is going through the original seller. I call the seller when instructed, was asked if I wanted the 5 yr extended warranty which I purchased for 400 bucks since it includes all bulbs. I had the same warranty on the 725 and it paid off handsomely over the 5 yrs. The lady says it will be delivered Friday. I get it last Friday with the expectation of paying somebody 489 for the tv with a check on delivery. They take out the old set, install the new one, hand me a receipt with a 0.00 balance, and walk out the door. I believe that somewhere in the foreigner's conversations they screwed up their numbers. After all, it took me 3 conversations to convince them they had used the numbers in my zip code as my phone numbers. Lol.

Nice!! I did the same thing...except I paid for mine :(. I was able to keep my 62725 with a bad light engine. Just handed the sellers the Serial# off the back. I just picked up one off of E-bay for $190 and plan to install it in the next few weeks. Good Basement TV for the kids to play X-Box on.

Ok an update on my situation, first off a recap of the chain of events. The TV is a 52725 and Mits paid for the service call to have the TV diagnosed. The TV company says yea it's a "known issue" with these sets. As usual Mits offered to exchange the TV for the 60738 for 800.00 or fix it and I pay half the cost. Told them that the price was way to high then they countered with 621.56 without the stand. Then I call to confirm that number they quoted on my voice mail. The guy said nooo that's wrong the lady was mistaken and the price is 621.56 plus 100.00 delivery.:eek::mad:

Then I countered back saying why don't you fix the TV and I'll cover the labor. No go with Mits they want me to pay half, so that's out the window. Then they say I need to sign a form they will send out to me with a signed check. I ask them if it was possible to just pick up the TV at Pauls where the original TV was bought. They said no we don't do that and you will have to send us a check along with the signed form.

Two weeks go by and I have not received anything from Mits in the mail. Then I get a call from Pauls TV saying that they will pick up my old TV and exchange it for the new one. Now let me recap in the beginning of this debacle and miscommunication. At first they said to do whatever with the TV as you wish because they don't want it back Now they are saying I need to keep the TV for the exchange from Pauls. Imagine if I had listened to Mitsubishi and actually threw it away now what? (SOL) probably Thank goodness I didn't.

So I call Mits today and ask what the hell is going on? I'm waiting on this so called form I'm supposed to fill out along with my check and I get this call from Pauls. They (Mits) reply saying Oh! we worked something out with Pauls TV and they will deliver and pick up your old TV for the 621.56 price + tax 682.16. So I ask what happened to the form I was supposed to sign and they said they will send it.:rolleyes:

I'm Japanese American born and raised in Santa Monica California and for a Japanese company they sure seem pretty slithery and not so honorable imo. What happened to Japanese pride and honesty? As mentioned you talk to someone you can barely understand and they aint Japanese!

Here's the kicker I don't even need the TV I have a Panny 3D PDP and I couldn't find anyone to jump on the deal, so I just decided to buy it for really no reason at all, thinking I can just turn around and sell it for a flat K. Now I may just toss the deal aside and just save my money.

Things people should be aware of:

Mits should pay for the diagnosis service call they covered mine.

Get them to put something in writing so it's legally on paper and know exactly what your getting and paying for.

Make sure you save your messages when I was told I had to pay for shipping I played the recording back to the CS guy and he had nothing further to say, because in the message I re iterated to CS lady that was the amount with shipping and she said yes.

They don't always seem to tell the truth and have a slithery way about them. They like to change their stories and rules as you play their crappy game of haggle.

I just don't know what I'm going to do with the deal... buy it? sell it? and be done with it.:cool:

Or pass it up all together and just save my mula.

I see that there are alot of people that have had bad experiences with this tv and unfortunately I should have done the research before buying the TV..well I didnt...I only paid 100 bucks for the tv. when we frist got the Tv like a month ago or so it worked fine. We moved the tv to our new house and now the dang thing turns on just fine, picture sound everythings seems to work ok...for about 20 minutes or so. then it freezes up, goes to a full blue screen sits liek that for anbout a minute then shuts off. the timer light blinks like everyone elses does but it turns off. once it goes off you can power the tv back on and once agin it starts up just fine. only odd thing is that the I am unable to change the device...ever...any ideas. I am the second owner is there a possibility I can have MITS replace the tv...or at least give me a credit like I have seen so many of you getting or trying to get. I am sure somewhere in this thread I could find the answers but I really dont have the time to read. Lol....sorry and thanks for any help you can give. my model is a WD-62725

Hi There, Sorry if this is a double post! I own a Mitsubishi WD-52628 Set and am having the "Blinking Green Timer Light" issue. Upon plugging in the unit I hear a normal sound (very high frequency almost silent) noise as if the unit is charging and then I hear the typical power clicking noise coming from the back of the unit, I am guessing this is the power supply firing up. Once Plugged in, the unit then has the blinking green timer light that blinks for about 45 seconds and then once that is done the green LED for the Compact Flash Eject button located on the front of the unit blinks 4 times and then once that is done, all four LEDS for the compact flash memory slots blink once and then it goes back to the Green Timer LED and Blinks a final 3 times. Timer light goes off and I am unable to power on the unit....:-( If I were to leave the unit plugged in, You would hear the same clicking noise and it may go thru the cycle one more time before staying off...I have the Service manual and have already replaced about 5 Capacitors within the unit. They were: C9A02, C9A03, 1000uF 200V. C9A32, C9A33 1000uF 25V, C9A45 1000uF 16V. Which did not make a difference.

I have seen other posts online where some people are replacing ALL of their Caps within the Chassis and to me this seems like overkill and a shot in the dark by those who don't know what to target in their repair....Once Again I appreciate the reply back! Has anyone within this forum had a similiar issue and if so specifically what Caps did you replace? I have the Mits Service Manual for this Model number and would be more than happy to provide the link:

http://www.filedropper.com/mitsubishiv29-v30-v31servicemanual

Thanks AVS Forum Users!

Just cleaned the mirrors, lens, and bulb face of my big 62 inch Mitsubishi after I had moved it a bit and dusted for the sat guys to install my new service. I have had it for five years and it works great except for the dust it had. Still have the original bulb. After second guessing myself I finally did it and I am very glad I did. Everything just pops out at you now. It's even better than I remember it being brand new. It is as close as you can get to a 3D set without owning one. This thing rivals most LED sets! It is that sharp now after the cleaning. If anyone is on the fence they should just do it! You will not be sorry you did. Just be careful and you have nothing to worry about. It's so easy to do. Lovin my "new" 62 inch Mitsubishi!

Just cleaned the mirrors, lens, and bulb face of my big 62 inch Mitsubishi after I had moved it a bit and dusted for the sat guys to install my new service. I have had it for five years and it works great except for the dust it had. Still have the original bulb. After second guessing myself I finally did it and I am very glad I did. Everything just pops out at you now. It's even better than I remember it being brand new. It is as close as you can get to a 3D set without owning one. This thing rivals most LED sets! It is that sharp now after the cleaning. If anyone is on the fence they should just do it! You will not be sorry you did. Just be careful and you have nothing to worry about. It's so easy to do. Lovin my "new" 62 inch Mitsubishi!

Yes, I've cleaned mine now two or three times and it does make a big difference. How can you still be on the first bulb though, do you not hardly use it? I'm only on the second but I didn't wait until it went out, I just changed it because it wasn't looking as bright and that also made a big difference.

My bulb just never blew (yet anyway) and is just as bright as ever. Watch it a ton. Just lucky I guess.

I'm thinking I need a color wheel for one of my sets. I heard they were cheap, but I'm seeing them for $100.00 or more.. where can I find a cheap one?

Well I finally am moving on. My Mitsubishi died a while ago and I'm done trying to fix it. Anybody have suggestions on how to get rid of it? Any companies that buy it for repair or parts?

What part of the country are you in (state, city?)

I am in need of a power supply board for a 62725. I believe any of the 52525, 52725, 62525, or 62725 boards will work. Someone tried to *fix* the one I have and its completely dead. Wont do anything at all and the main fuse looks good. If I swap in a known good board, the tv works fine, so its something on the main PS board that is faulty. If you were holding onto a parts tv or something, I'd gladly buy a board from you, even if it needs rebuilt. I just don't want some basket case board that is completely dead like mine.. :)

What part of the country are you in (state, city?)

Orange County, CA

Orange County, CA

You could probably part it out on ebay as a rebuildable core. I'd buy the entire chassis and possibly the bulb and ballast from you if the price was right.

I'm hoping one of you guys can help me out.

My mits 62725 has the BGLOD. After going through several posts on different forums, I found out that I could get the set running again by pulling the plug that runs from the power board to the FMT board and then plugging it back in once he light stopped blinking.

This worked perfectly, but I didn't want to have to take it apart whenever the power happens to go out or I needed to replace the lamp so I decided to put in a switch to cut the power to the FMT as I had read some others had done.

I hooked up the switch easily enough, however when I cut the TV on, the picture was distorted. I thought the switch was bad, so I just connected the ends running to it together just to be certain. The picture still came out distorted. Though, when I take the extra wire (the new wire added to run to the switch) out of the equation and attach the original wire back together - the picture is perfect again.

I'm at my wit's end here. Do any of you have any ideas of what could cause the picture to become distorted? -Todd

Got my offer from Mits yesterday -- $300 for a 60738 plus $200 shipping. What do you think? I've read on the 738 thread that some people are having HDMI problems and have had to have boards replaced -- deja vu all over again. Plus some people have had bad geometry problems, but I think that's on the larger sets. 60" is actually fine for me; it's a step up from my old 52" set but still shouldn't overwhelm the room. Should I try and get them to throw in a pair of 3D glasses? I have a PS3 so no problem playing BD3Ds. My negotiating skills are rubbish though.

just got one of thse for free with the GBLOD, now i have to decide if its worth fixing

Just want to let you all know that after calling Mits a few times they took my est. from an authorized dealer and offered me a new TV 65738 for $530.00 I blew 3 bulbs and had major static in the picture, so for a TV over 5 years old I cant complain.

Count me in with the BGLOD crowd. I have a WD-52725 that I got from my in-laws last summer. My father in law had experienced some issues with the set (not sure of all of the details) and got an accommodation from Mitsubishi that ended up getting him a new set, even though they did not cart away the 52725 (which ended up working again, go figure). So fast forward to now. I've experienced the blinking green light several times following power outages and have always been able to restore function by either unplugging and replugging the set or using the reset switch. That is, until a couple of weeks ago when no means of resetting would work. I did my research on this forum and others and discovered the joys of the BGLOD. I've now been inside the set about three times, and have replaced the PWR supply board (with one I bought from a company that salvages unused boards from sets damaged in transit, or so they say) and also replaced the usual suspect caps on the DM and FMT boards (as well as the two 1000 uF caps on the Terminal 2 board). I put everything back together and no go. I installed the switch hack on the FMT power and was able to get the set to start, getting the blue OSD display screen asking me if I replaced the lamp, to which I answered 'no' (because I hadn't). Put everything back together, went to start up the set again, and now I get the blinking green light that stops after a minute, but when I push the power button, I get a solid green light for about 30 seconds (the fan on the back of the console starts), but then the unit shuts down with the solid red lamp light lit.

So....should I suspect the new PWR board I bought? I can always go back and do the cap fix on my original board, which I still have and which definitely has at least one bad 3300 uF cap (bulged and leaking). Or is it likely that the bulb really has gone bad? I'm not sure if the bulb has ever been replaced, but will ask my father in law. Because I'm not the original owner, and because the original owner has already received an accommodation from Mits, I likely won't get any joy out of them, so any repairs are out of my pocket. If I can't fix it myself, then it's to the curb for this baby and it will get replaced with a more reliable set.

Any advice out there on what I should try next with this boat anchor??

I was wondering if someone could clarify if those that got offers from Mits were still under extended warranty or not? I have a WD-62825 and had the chassis replaced under warranty about 2 years ago. It just died last night with a constant red lamp light. After several resets and it tries to start up for a few minutes with a green lamp light but then shuts itself down. Checked the lamp and its fine. I paid $5500 for this piece of junk plus the cost of several 1 year warranty extentions and it has been having some sort of issues from day one. If my extended warranty ended about 2 years ago when the chassis was replaced, would a call to Mitsubishi still be effective if I was interested in getting some credit towards a new model? At this point I don't even want to go through the hassle of a repair. I was about to go out and purchase from a different company but thought of checking out these forums first and ran across this thread. Thanks

rotty2, yes call them and let them know that you have BGLOD and they will ask for ur original receipt and a diagnostic report which you can get from any authorized mits repair service center.

I pulled the replacement power board and replaced the 3300 uF and 2200 uF caps, even though the 3300 uF looked as though they had already been replaced. Checked all the fuses, all looked fine. Put it all back together and it fired up, so back in business. Buttoned everything up and it's running fine now, although the picture quality on the S-Video input isn't all that great. I suspect this is related to the FMT board issues, but frankly since this is a TV that sits in my basement for my kids' use (movies, games, etc.) it isn't worth the time and energy to do anything more. When the day comes that it dies for good, it'll go to the curb and I'll invest in better technology.

Update: So after my last fix (replacing the ballast board) the TV worked for about a week and then died again. I measured the voltage going to the ballast board at 315V. I just replaced the large caps on the power board and now get 337V (it should be 350, but this should be plenty to light the tv). However, the set attempts to power up, I can see the flash on the ballast board but it does not come on and after 3 attempts to light it gives me the red lamp light.

I have a feeling that this might not be a cap issue anymore and perhaps it could be the projector possibly. Any ideas?

Got a decent deal - I suppose..

First, WD 52525 was upgraded to 60738 for $300 plus $100 for shipping... Will likely sell this one so don't need the stand..

Second, WD 62725 was upgraded to 65838 for ($300 to 65738) then negotiated upgrade to 65838 for additional $300 plus $100 shipping and stand for $210. Total $910.

Couldn't get them to budge on stand price or the free shipping....

I hope the extra $300 to the Diamond is worth it -

Is this inline with what others have been offered?

I didn't want another Mitsu in replacement. I talked them into giving me store credit where I purchased mine. They gave me $645 credit and with that and less than $200 I got a 40 inch Sony Bravia 120 mhz. Fits much better in the downstairs family room than the 52 inch Mitsu did.

Same story diffrent day.

WD52-725

2 chassis rebuilds
3 bulbs
1 power supply.

Dead again

Question. I turned the TV on. the blank screen came up with the input icons splattered all across the screen. TV is locked up then the lamp light starts flashing. Turn TV off and back on. Blank Screen lamp light on all the time. Tried a soft reset no help. turned off and back on no help. unplug TV wait 10 mins. Now it DGBL then it goes off and the red lamp light comes on.

Call Mits Customer service and they tell me to go buy a bulb. Customer service rep becomes billgerant when I ask to speak to a supervisor... put back on hold 10 mins then she tells me no supervisor is available. All I wanted was an email confirmation with a referance No and directions to start a consumer complaint. Asks me for my email then tells me she can not send me anything.
Jake her supervisor calls me back about an hour and a half later only to tell me that he would have to forward my request to his advisor about emailing me a paper trail of corrospondance regarding my TV... Then he tells me that he was going to start an internal investigation regarding the rude behavior of his phone rep.

Why on earth am I putting myself through this with this company?Terrible known product, bad customer service, then I still have to pay for an authorized diagnosis before I can bow down before them with the proper documentation for WHAT exactly? ANOTHER MIT?
$4200 + 4 months without the TV and 3 sevice calls and I still havent learned my lesson.
Does anyone have a spare bulb for loan or sale? Just need it to see how much more fun this great adventure has in store for me....

This ditribe is very very unsettling.................

Hi all,

I have a solid red status light with code 44, DVI cable disconnected. It comes on about 3 seconds after the lamp fires up and shuts the TV down. I've checked all the cables and tried a second DVI cable with no luck. Also checked all connections to the boards several times. In doing a search for this problem I've found other people with this problem but never a solution. Is no one out there up to the challenge :p God I'd love to get this TV fixed before Xmas, it's been down for months now. Anyone have any ideas?

Same story diffrent day.

WD52-725

2 chassis rebuilds
3 bulbs
1 power supply.

Dead again

Question. I turned the TV on. the blank screen came up with the input icons splattered all across the screen. TV is locked up then the lamp light starts flashing. Turn TV off and back on. Blank Screen lamp light on all the time. Tried a soft reset no help. turned off and back on no help. unplug TV wait 10 mins. Now it DGBL then it goes off and the red lamp light comes on.

Call Mits Customer service and they tell me to go buy a bulb. Customer service rep becomes billgerant when I ask to speak to a supervisor... put back on hold 10 mins then she tells me no supervisor is available. All I wanted was an email confirmation with a referance No and directions to start a consumer complaint. Asks me for my email then tells me she can not send me anything.
Jake her supervisor calls me back about an hour and a half later only to tell me that he would have to forward my request to his advisor about emailing me a paper trail of corrospondance regarding my TV... Then he tells me that he was going to start an internal investigation regarding the rude behavior of his phone rep.

Why on earth am I putting myself through this with this company?Terrible known product, bad customer service, then I still have to pay for an authorized diagnosis before I can bow down before them with the proper documentation for WHAT exactly? ANOTHER MIT?
$4200 + 4 months without the TV and 3 sevice calls and I still havent learned my lesson.
Does anyone have a spare bulb for loan or sale? Just need it to see how much more fun this great adventure has in store for me....

This ditribe is very very unsettling.................

Why are you even bothering with Mitsubishi anymore? I've had problems with both my Mitsubishi DLP's (62525 and 73833) and Mitsubishi does not want to correct the problems these sets have so I'm not going to bother buying another Mitsubishi even though I've been loyal to that brand since 1980.

Why are you even bothering with Mitsubishi anymore? I've had problems with both my Mitsubishi DLP's (62525 and 73833) and Mitsubishi does not want to correct the problems these sets have so I'm not going to bother buying another Mitsubishi even though I've been loyal to that brand since 1980.

Those were my same thoughts. That's why I pushed for a store credit rather than pay more money for a inferior product. I wound up with modern technology for only about $200.

Technically i have the WD-52825 but this thread seemed to be most relevant. I was hoping someone might have run into this problem and managed to fix it without involving mits.

None of the external inputs are registering.

I get nothing but a blue screen with the device info displayed. I've tried conencting the wii to the front inputs, but no luck with that.

The internal disk will play some previously recorded content fine, but beyond that nothing will give me a picture. I did a system reset and a reset from the TV Menu -1-2-3 Option. Last time the conencted inputs werent even selected on the Net Command opttion, after forcing them on still the same blue screen.

Any ideas or a reference to a prior thread would be great. My googling on this forum and on the internet have not given me much to go from.

I am an original owner of a WD-62725 (purchased Sept. 2004). I've had it completely replaced once (Oct '04), the chassis replaced (in '08), and now its pretty much completely dead.

Yesterday, I started seeing what looked like a loss of sync on the HDMI input (a extreme version of wavy lines). Same thing on the COMP inputs. So I switched to ANT to watch the Cowboys game. By the end of the game, I started seeing horizontal green lines and finally a complete mess of a picture. Checked back on the other inputs and nothing at all (blue screen with lines).

I had it out with Mits CS many years ago and I'm not looking forward to doing it again, but I suppose that's the standard course of action with these things. I have no desire to fix it myself or pay someone to do it, just to have it crap out again. So I guess I'll call them and see what they offer. I originally got the 5 year EW, but that has expired.

I do NOT want another Mits DLP! I originally bought it at Ultimate Electronics, which went out of business several years ago. So I don't know if I will be able to get a store credit. Has anyone be able to pull this off?

Regards,
-Craig