I have a WF-52525 and got the BGLOD and replaced 1000uf caps on the PWR, DM, and FMT boards, and the bigger caps (2200?3300? don't remember) on the PWR board as well. Some were bulging/popped/some not , but all got replaced: Still had the BGLOD.

Installed the switch on the orange 6v line on the FC connection on the FMT board as suggested numerous times. The set powers up. Blue screen is fine, menus are fine.

Any video through the inputs is scrambled with no audio. It stabilizes somewhat when I move around the switch/wires that I have routed through the back of the case, but I never get audio.

This happens with DTV, Component 1 , Component 2, and the HDMI inputs (haven't tested others).

Any idea what could have gone wrong?

I am an original owner of a WD-62725 (purchased Sept. 2004). I've had it completely replaced once (Oct '04), the chassis replaced (in '08), and now its pretty much completely dead.

Yesterday, I started seeing what looked like a loss of sync on the HDMI input (a extreme version of wavy lines). Same thing on the COMP inputs. So I switched to ANT to watch the Cowboys game. By the end of the game, I started seeing horizontal green lines and finally a complete mess of a picture. Checked back on the other inputs and nothing at all (blue screen with lines).

I had it out with Mits CS many years ago and I'm not looking forward to doing it again, but I suppose that's the standard course of action with these things. I have no desire to fix it myself or pay someone to do it, just to have it crap out again. So I guess I'll call them and see what they offer. I originally got the 5 year EW, but that has expired.

I do NOT want another Mits DLP! I originally bought it at Ultimate Electronics, which went out of business several years ago. So I don't know if I will be able to get a store credit. Has anyone be able to pull this off?

Regards,
-Craig

Damn!!! Wish you lived closer to me, I'd buy it off you. Mine doesn't have a big problem like yours sounds like just one of the damn boards!!:mad:

Hi all. Haven't posted in a while because my box has been pretty solid. Well that changed yesterday. My wife called me and said the TV was making a bad noise. When I got home I took it apart and it sounds like the noise is coming from the light engine. The noise sounds similar to the noise a motor makes when the bearings start to go. Plus the picture looks fuzzy now. Anyone have an idea of what this might be? If it is a bad light engine does anyone have a ballpark on repair costs?

Looks like our WD-52725 is on it's final leg yet again. How long should I really put up with this?? Tried giving the customer support line a ring today, and it appears that they are down or off for the holidays?

I came upon this facebook site and wanted to pass it along; http://www.facebook.com/pages/I-have-a-defective-Mitsubishi-TV/129065190473390?v=wall&viewas=0

Anyone have any luck contacting Mitsubishi in the last couple of days?

I am an original owner of a WD-62725 (purchased Sept. 2004). (snip)

Called MDEA and got the standard response....schedule a service call for an estimate, then fax us the complete history blah blah blah. So, the guys came out today and the TV completely failed while they were here. They briefly saw the distorted picture and bright horizontal lines on all inputs....then bang! The whole thing shut down and the red lamp light came on. My most recent lamp was purchased in March of '09, so it was not old.

The guys told me about the power board problems they've seen when people leave the lamps in too long. But, I did not have the BGLOD....just the "D".

Anyway, I though I would post what my response to MDEA will be once I receive the copy of the latest estimate. As I mentioned before, I don't want another Mits DLP, but I really have no leverage because my EW has expired so I hope to just get some value out of this POS and move on with my life.

Please let me know if you have any comments that may help my case (or if you see any errors). Mods, please delete this if its too long not or not appropriate.

Thanks.

-----

Mitsubishi Digital Electronics America (MDEA)
Consumer Relations
9351 Jeronimo Rd.
Irvine, CA 92618
Fax: 949-609-4900
RE: Case #2640833, regarding WD-62725 S/N 119868

Hello,
I am writing this letter (fax) to describe the defect history and most recent death of my Mitsubishi DLP TV, model # WD-62725, S/N 119868 (which is actually my 3rd unit). Please see below for the timeline summary of problems I’ve encountered with the WD-62725. I’ve also enclosed all of the documentation I could find (including the original receipt and service records). You should have also received a fax for the latest service request I made at your request (also attached).

History

September 2004 - Original purchase @ Ultimate Electronics for $4229.95 + $449.95 5-year Extended Warranty S/N 105502
This model had 2 major issues:
1. A tilted picture such that graphics at the bottom of the screen were cut off.
2. A bright spot of white light (leaked from the Light Engine) in the center of the screen visible during “normal” TV watching

October 2004 - 1st replacement from Ultimate Electronics to hopefully correct the above issues. This unit had the same problems. After several failed communications with MDEA (case #943273), I ultimately went back to the dealer and they agreed to exchange the unit again after I inspected it.

January 2005 - 2nd replacement S/N 119868 (this is the unit I still have). At this time there were no issues with this unit, the bright spot did not exist, and I was happy with the exchange except for the geometry/tilt issue which I also had fixed.

March 2005 - Tilt/geometry fix. This corrected the issue and I was finally left with a TV I thought would last for years.

September 2008 - Wavy lines on HDMI input, worse on Component input. Still under the 5-year extended warranty, the unit was shipped (via Goodman TV Repair xxx-xxx-xxxx) to MDEA for replacement of the “FMT board” or possibly the entire chassis.

December 2010 - Complete loss of sync on HDMI and Component inputs, green horizontal lines and distorted color and picture on Antenna input. Ultimately, complete failure and red lamp light. The most recent lamp was purchased in March of 2009.

Resolution
It is my understanding that there are several possible resolutions to this problem. There may be others, but the following options are what I have been told from several other owners who have had problems with their Mitsubishi DLP TV:

1. MDEA pays for some or all of the repairs for the current unit

2. MDEA offers a replacement or deeply discounted model of an equivalent TV from the current DLP TV line

3. MDEA provides a store credit to be used towards a purchase of another TV (possibly different technology or brand)

My personal preference is (3). I am sorry to say that I am no longer interested in continuing ownership of this TV as I feel there will continue be problems based on the history of defects and repeated service calls. When considering your offer for resolution, please understand my frustration in spending almost $5000 for a TV that cannot even last 6 years.

I look forward to your call to discuss this matter. Thank you so much.

Regards,

-----

Is there anyone with a set they have given up on they are parting out? PM me please.

The back story. i have replaced the caps on the pwr board both hot and cold side & the FM board to this point.

And the struggle continues. So to add information that may be helpful to those who are attempting to repair their own tv.

I finally got the lamp to light after replacing the capacitor on the ballast board. After several attempts it finally lit.

Only to get a checkerboard pattern of little black and white lines. This is apparently a symptom of either the FMT board or the signal board. I just replaced the capacitors on the FMT board only to have the same problem still. So I suspect that I will need to look at the signal board.

FYI - none of my capacitors show the usual signs of failing (bloating or leaking) but from testing the voltage before and after to the ballast board after replacing the hot side caps it was obvious that some were failing.

Also, be very careful with the ribbon cables they are fragile, I caught one that had one wire bent back onto another, i ended up trimming it to correct that problem.

Also if repairing your own upon reassembly the BGLOD is usually a sign you forgot to plug something back in.

IT Works

Ok so I am a bit of a dumb ass. since the TV has been down 6 months I forgot how one lil thing was wired. I had the chassis fan wired into the circuit board on top of the chassis which cycles the fan, instead of the back fan. Once I switched it BAMB TV again.

So, merry Christmas to me.

These TV's can be fixed and they do have a great picture. I will have no problem picking up another that is broken dirt cheap and fixing it since i know them inside and out now! i will get my 20 years out of this SOB Yeah

They offered me 600 for 65738 for my 62725 bought nov 2004,paid 4600 with one lamp change and BGLOD. I took the offer but the delivery is expected first week of Jan as they had shutdown the week of 20th due to flooding in south cal.

They offered me 600 for 65738 for my 62725 bought nov 2004,paid 4600 with one lamp change and BGLOD. I took the offer but the delivery is expected first week of Jan as they had shutdown the week of 20th due to flooding in south cal.

Curious, what did you have to do to get them to make that offer?

I sent them an email and the response was to have a certified tech look at it, which requires throwing more money at it.

I called them and they asked me to call the authorized dealer number which they provided based on my zip. It cost 85 (he did the estimate over the phone in 10 minutes). faxed the estimate 650 repair cost and the receipt. They called me back in two days and offered a replacement. First offer was for 800. i told them that was a lot considering i paid 4600 and it lasted 6 years. They countered with 650 white glove or 600 door delivery. i opted for door delivery. they accept MO or CC only. total 685. Need to get rid of 62725. Any ideas?
number to call 1-800-332-2119

I called them and they asked me to call the authorized dealer number which they provided based on my zip. It cost 85 (he did the estimate over the phone in 10 minutes). faxed the estimate 650 repair cost and the receipt. They called me back in two days and offered a replacement. First offer was for 800. i told them that was a lot considering i paid 4600 and it lasted 6 years. They countered with 650 white glove or 600 door delivery. i opted for door delivery. they accept MO or CC only. total 685. Need to get rid of 62725. Any ideas?
number to call 1-800-332-2119

Still waiting for my call, I will push for store credit but I may take them up on a similar offer as you. Otherwise, I get nothing out of it.

So, it was a total of $685 ($600 + $85 shipping), no sales tax?

Ok cool,

Disposal of 62725, rip out the chassis and send to me, then place carcass in a desert canyon and empty 1000 rounds of your desired firearm into it to relieve the stress and headaches it has caused lol

Can't figure out how to air my complaints on this thread so I hope this works. Bought a WS55511 in 04 for $2,000. In 08, had to spend $500.00 for a new lamp. Had a power outage two weeks ago, the set dies. I read up on it on the internet and am advised to first replace the capacitors with Panisonic hi-temp ones from digikey, which my son did. The t.v. finally works, but then dies after 1 minute. This happens continuously throughout the even he is working on it checking plugs and fuses and everything he could think of. All in all, nothing works. I have been in touch with Mitsubishi, but they want me to get a service tech here (another $100.00 just for him to walk in the door). I am like, no, why don't you tell me you will pay for the service tech to come here, then I will get them here. I am in the hole $2,500.00 for this piece of garbage that it seems everyone else is having a problem with also. CSR doesn't want to help me so I ask for a supervisor and do what she asks which is to fax copies of the bill of sale and the repair bill. They call me yesterday to ask if I got the service tech here yet, and I said no, I am not happy with this product and need you to tell me what exactly you are willing to do. Are you willing to pay for the tech to come here and fix the t.v., or are you willing to pay for "just the parts" to repair said t.v. He didn't have an answer for me and said someone else will call me back today to speak with me. They never called today. I will call tomorrow to find out what they are willing to do, like a gift certificate or a replacement tv. I am so angry. They should have recalled these tv.'s. Someone tell me if you think I am going about it in the right way. Right now, as it stands, we are throwing this tv out and buying another t.v. because I refuse to dump more money in this pile of **it. Please advise.

I replaced the bulb and soon after colored lines began to appear both vertically and horizontally. Can someone tell me what this is?

Is that what bad caps look like? (see below) They almost look like interference. They get wavey and squiggly. Some channels have it worse than others; some don't have any lines.

Anyway, I think it's time we said goodbye. I can only say that owning this tv has been a huge disappointment. I cannot and will not recommend any Mitsubishi product to anyone I know. Ever. *sigh*

I replaced 4 caps on the DM board, 1 of the originals melted others bulged.
I replaced 8 on the FMT Power board, 3 bulging.

Prior to this I did tons of research, bought the correct capacitors, and hoped this would fix my blinking green light.

Well it did, now though the TV Turns off after 30 seconds, no picture yet, and I have a solid red status light. Check the error code and it is 44 (DVI cable unplugged). I replaced the DVI cable and same situation.

Has anyone else had this or found a way around it? I thought it may be a short but I've checked my soldering and everything looks good.


Also is there a thread for just technical questions and not rants that would be more appropriate for me to ask in? Any help at all is much appreciated.

Got my WD-60738 replacement for my WD-52725 today. $350 ($200 for TV + $150 white glove delivery), plus $60 for repair estimate. Tried to get a deal on the 3D starter pack but they wouldn't go for it. Now I need to tell the repair guys they can trash the old TV; I don't want to see it again! Let's hope this new one works well, at least for a few years!

marshman98, yes it is the caps on one of the boards.

jrobe, this is probably the best thread other than starting your own, the only time I had that fault was when my DVI cable was unplugged. Double check all of your connections, if not you might have more bad caps or another problem.

paco - It can't be the dvi cable, I can only think of a short. I've double checked and cleaned thoroughly my new caps and solder points. If I wasn't bald I'd pull my hair out!

LOL

Is it possible you put one of the caps in backwards? Possible connector not connected or in the wrong spot on one of the other boards?

LOL

Is it possible you put one of the caps in backwards? Possible connector not connected or in the wrong spot on one of the other boards?

hahaha No I got them all in correct. I have found 3 more swollen 1000 uf caps on the board in front of the DM. I need to replace those. Additionally further reading has shown a few other people with this diagnose the problem. Apparently one of the surface mount fuses on the pwr board is open. I'm awaitin a response on if they replaced the fuse with a glass one or what. I need to check more with a voltmeter, or just buy a new pwr board! they are only $109

ok i know that this forum has talked alot about the issues im having... the problem is i cant seem to maks sence of them all, nor find all the info on it... its a big a** thread lol. anyways i have a WD-52525 that was just given to my by a family member who told me it just needed a bulb. So i went out and bought one and replaced it.... $150 later i still have a tv that doesnt work.. this is what im seeing... when i turn on the tv i get no picture and a static sound that i can control with the volume + & -, then a few minuets later the set turns off compleatly and the "lamp" light goes to a solid red, with an error code 34 Lamp abnormality. I have also noted that durring the few minuets that the set is on, the lamp never even turns on. after some resurch on this site i took the guts out to look for swollen caps. I have none that are swollen on the main board. In fact... apperently my grandfather had sent it in under warrenty for some reason, and the caps had been replaced already by a mitsubishi tech, this i can tell because the tech had marked the two 3300 and the four 1000 caps with a red sharpie. Also i had the bulb installed into the housing by a local tv tech, and the conectors going from the bulb to the ballast are not bent over. any ideas on what my problem is? thanks a ton guys!

One last try.

WD 62725, had BGLOD after moving to a new apartment. Worked before, set it up and bam... dead.

I replaced four 1000 uf caps on the DM and PWR boards. I also changed two 2200 and two 3300 uf on the power board. Hooking everything back up the BGLOD went away, tv turned on with no picture, then went to a red status light error code 44. DVI cable did not fix it.

I took the chassis back apart, and noticed the FMT board had four 1000 uf caps, every so slightly swollen. I replaced these four, set everything back up, AND I HAVE PICTURE!!!

The TV is working, when I first turned it on it came to a blue screen asking if I want to replace the lamp. I clicked the button indicating no. The blue screen looked perfect, everything was sharp as is the text. Hooking up an HDMI signal I get wavy lines across the whole screen. I have read much saying this indicates bad caps, but the blue screen was not wavy, and I JUST changed the bad caps. I have tried different signals and different HDMI cables.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

1.jpg = Blue set up screen, no signal.
2.jpg = set up screen with dvd loading.
3.jpg = dvd playback.

Please help! I think it may have to do with the signal processing, just can't think of how, where, or why.

Now it's happened to me. I made the mistake of unplugging my 62525 in order to move some components around and now it won't turn on. It keeps flashing the green timer light for about a dozen times and then pauses for a second and then starts flashing again. I guess this is the BGLOD or whatever it's called? I called Mitsubishi and they want me to get a diagnosis and estimate. The technician couldn't get an error code when he asked me to try different button combinations. The technician is coming in Monday to look at it. What should I do? Should I ask Mitsubishi for a discounted replacement instead of messing around with this model and fixing it over and over? I'm tempted to ask for the replacement, do you agree?

1.jpg = Blue set up screen, no signal.
2.jpg = set up screen with dvd loading.
3.jpg = dvd playback.

Please help! I think it may have to do with the signal processing, just can't think of how, where, or why.


dude, check every cap on every board on the chassis. takes a bit of time to access all of them but thats what i have done and mine works now.

I was afraid I'd have to do that, nonetheless I have checked most of them visually. I've replaced all the 1000 uf, 2200 uf, and 3300 uf's. I've been told that cleaning the cable ribbons can help... so trying it now!

I will post results soon

jrobe, search Tbully and see if you can find his write up, it is most likely the surface mount caps on the one board - they usually DO NOT visually look bad.

Will it give you lines using all inputs? INCLUDING the antenna?

lujan YES if you are the original owner AND they offer you a replacement TAKE IT, the new sets picture is far superior to your set :)

How long has it taken once you submitted the money order for the replacement and they have received it for the tv to ship?

For instance, I mailed the money order from Colorado to MDEA on Monday 1.10.11 and expect them to receive payment yesterday or possibly today.

Also, do they call you with a tracking number?

It is a rather large box (wd-60738) and will likely need someone to sign for it...

Ok, like most of use i also have the BGLOD. I have already had someone come out to my home and fix all the caps on the boards. They told me that my voltage needed to be at a steady 5 it was reading 6.97 the guy did something to bring them down and it started smoking in the rear of the tv. He hasent been back since or willnt answer the phone. i have a wd62725 and would like to have it replaced with the 65738 but i cant find the reciept anywhere( ive looked for hours) has anyone tried to get a replacement without a reciept yet. Do you think Mitsubishi will give me one without the reciept. I bought it new from Circuit city but they have went out of biss since then. Please someone help me with my ????. Thanks a million

Hi all,

I have 2 bad FMT boards. I have changed the 4 1000uf capacitors on both boards and checked the 3 fuses on each with no luck. I've been told the small aluminum surface capacitors almost never fail short of a lightning strike, is this true?. Is there any other parts I should check or change on these boards or are they both junk? I'm only trying to get 1 of them working the other can be for parts. :(

Thanks,

Guys, seriously. If you are interested in fixing your tv's, you NEED to replace EVERY ONE of the aluminum SMT caps, and probably ALL of the other caps as well. There are the typical usual suspects on the main boards, which may get you back up and running. But all of the others are extremely suspect too, and will fail very soon after you start seeing one of the typical problems. I posted a list of replacement caps with part numbers for Digikey; these parts are also upgrades to the ones installed by Mits. Mits runs all of these caps WAY too close to ratings, which combined with the high heat, leads to a shortened life span. Just some words of warning.

Also, my CL acquired set actually had swollen caps on the INPUT board too! So inspect every one of the electrolytic caps on every board. And if you are going through the trouble of replacing any of them, replace them with one that will still fit the space, but has the highest voltage rating possible, as well as temp spec.

Good luck gentlemen.

Do you think Mitsubishi will give me one without the reciept. I bought it new from Circuit city but they have went out of biss since then. Please someone help me with my ????. Thanks a million

I doubt it - if you have had previous issues and a case open they may not need original receipt. On both of mine (52525 and 62725) I had to fax receipt and prior work history thru the tech.

It wouldn't hurt to try and see if the original merchant has the transaction or your card merchant may be able to help if you used a credit card.

BUMP???

"How long has it taken once you submitted the money order for the replacement and they have received it for the tv to ship?"

Guys, seriously. If you are interested in fixing your tv's, you NEED to replace EVERY ONE of the aluminum SMT caps, and probably ALL of the other caps as well. There are the typical usual suspects on the main boards, which may get you back up and running. But all of the others are extremely suspect too, and will fail very soon after you start seeing one of the typical problems. I posted a list of replacement caps with part numbers for Digikey; these parts are also upgrades to the ones installed by Mits. Mits runs all of these caps WAY too close to ratings, which combined with the high heat, leads to a shortened life span. Just some words of warning.

Also, my CL acquired set actually had swollen caps on the INPUT board too! So inspect every one of the electrolytic caps on every board. And if you are going through the trouble of replacing any of them, replace them with one that will still fit the space, but has the highest voltage rating possible, as well as temp spec.

Good luck gentlemen.



Thanks for the advice, I ordered new caps last night. Lets see what type of luck I have :)

jrobe, search Tbully and see if you can find his write up, it is most likely the surface mount caps on the one board - they usually DO NOT visually look bad.

Will it give you lines using all inputs? INCLUDING the antenna?

Yea I get lines on all inputs, I'm just leaving it as is. I replaced lots of caps! I've had it with the thing

Hey if anyone needs a PWR board for a 62725 I have one for sale! I purchased from discount-merchant.com and that wasn't needed.

Yea I get lines on all inputs, I'm just leaving it as is. I replaced lots of caps! I've had it with the thing

You did a lot more than I ever would have done. I'm still waiting on Mitsubishi to see what they're going to do with my problem. The estimate says that they need to replace the whole chassis.

Hey if anyone needs a PWR board for a 62725 I have one for sale! I purchased from discount-merchant.com and that wasn't needed.

How Much? trickertreat69 at gmail dot com

Shipping company called and said they will deliver replacement WD60738 tomorrow between 930 and 11 am.

So, it appears that it takes about a week once they get your payment and the item drops.

I live in western Colorado so this isnt too bad.

I got a call Friday before last that they received my payment. Got another call the following Tuesday that they wanted to sell me a stand for $200...

Hope that didn't hold the shipping up needlessly.

I have a wd-62725, I have no knowledge of tv's, but luv to tinker. From reading your posts, I attempted to fix a tv that would not boot up. After working on the power/dm/fmt boards, my tv boots up fine, but then after 30 minutes or so, goes to a blue screen, then shuts off. I've had a blast learning the different parts, and was curious if anyone had had this problem. Thanks to all who have posted, tia from Mission Viejo, Ca

Shipping company called and said they will deliver replacement WD60738 tomorrow between 930 and 11 am.

So, it appears that it takes about a week once they get your payment and the item drops.

I live in western Colorado so this isnt too bad.

I got a call Friday before last that they received my payment. Got another call the following Tuesday that they wanted to sell me a stand for $200...

Hope that didn't hold the shipping up needlessly.

I sent my payment for the replacement TV on 1/20/11 and they got it on 1/24/11 because I sent it certified so that I'd know when they got it. They didn't call until 3 days later on 1/27/11 telling me they got the payment. They said they would follow-up when they have a tracking number.

So you should get yours within a week or so. They called and left a message on fri saying 7 to 10 business days. Then on Tues they called asking if I wanted the stand go $200. I have a stand ordered on my other replacement (WD65838) I got the tv delivered the next Tues.

Not sure where you live - I am in western Colorado. Obviously it could take a few more days if you are on the east coast or so.

Pretty happy with the set so far. Deciding on whether to sell my 57833 or just get a new bulb.

So you should get yours within a week or so. They called and left a message on fri saying 7 to 10 business days. Then on Tues they called asking if I wanted the stand go $200. I have a stand ordered on my other replacement (WD65838) I got the tv delivered the next Tues.

Not sure where you live - I am in western Colorado. Obviously it could take a few more days if you are on the east coast or so.

Pretty happy with the set so far. Deciding on whether to sell my 57833 or just get a new bulb.

Did Mitsubishi ever call you with a tracking number or was the contact from the shipping company only? I live in Albuquerque.

I have a base for the 62".

I'm in L.A. so best if you are too. Not sure how the heck I'd ship this thing. No reasonable offer will be refused. If you're interested please PM me as I no longer monitor this thread.

Did Mitsubishi ever call you with a tracking number or was the contact from the shipping company only? I live in Albuquerque.

They did not -

I got a call from the shipping company Monday sometime the day before they were to deliver.

I just need to scrounge up $910 for the 65838 and stand and shipping...

Hi gang...

Been lurking for a few weeks now. Yes, me too... i have a 2005 62725. dies on me about 3 weeks ago. great timing i say. anyhow, all the hoops and my first offer was $800 white glove of the 65738, with taxes and shipping included.

I initially said yes, then went to Ultimate electronics to check out the tv and it's on sale right now for $899. Add mn tax of 7.275% and $50 for local shipping & delivery and i'm about a grand into it retail. Awesome deal now is only luke warm.

Called back and told them that local ultimate electronics has it fo $899 and asked for a better offer or to throw in the 3d kit... they call the next day and offer to reduce it another $100 to $700 white glove service, out the door price. This afternoon, i sent out the cashier's check certified mail to them. said they couldn't offer the 3dkit through the vendor channels and only retail channels... blah...

so new tv in about 2 weeks i'm guessing.

meanwhile, the 62 incher is in the spare bedroom on the floor. i can't find any good step by step tutorials/walkthroughs for this. i need help. so the service manual pdf you can find online gives instructions on how to remove the back panel, and allows you to take out the main electrical chassis. that's where i am...

any guidance from here on out would be great. and my boards... the caps look perfect and shiny. no leakage, warping, or anyting like that...

where to start???

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b110/captured_archangel/Apart_small.jpg
On the floor taken apart

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b110/captured_archangel/Wires-small.jpg
The mess of wires

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b110/captured_archangel/Main-Chasis-small.jpg
Caps all look perfect on visual inspection

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b110/captured_archangel/Boards-small.jpg
Not sure how to disassemble the dm boad off this piece

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b110/captured_archangel/Term2-small.jpg
term2 board

thanks guys...

~Eric

define "dies"

Why are you even bothering? Mine was picked up by the city on Monday never to be seen again. Also, still waiting on the 65738. They got the cashiers check on 1/24/11 and called me on 1/27/11 telling me 7 - 10 business days. That would make it 2/10/11 at the latest.

Hi gang...

Been lurking for a few weeks now. Yes, me too... i have a 2005 62725. dies on me about 3 weeks ago. great timing i say. anyhow, all the hoops and my first offer was $800 white glove of the 65738, with taxes and shipping included.

I initially said yes, then went to Ultimate electronics to check out the tv and it's on sale right now for $899. Add mn tax of 7.275% and $50 for local shipping & delivery and i'm about a grand into it retail. Awesome deal now is only luke warm.

Called back and told them that local ultimate electronics has it fo $899 and asked for a better offer or to throw in the 3d kit... they call the next day and offer to reduce it another $100 to $700 white glove service, out the door price. This afternoon, i sent out the cashier's check certified mail to them. said they couldn't offer the 3dkit through the vendor channels and only retail channels... blah...

so new tv in about 2 weeks i'm guessing.

meanwhile, the 62 incher is in the spare bedroom on the floor. i can't find any good step by step tutorials/walkthroughs for this. i need help. so the service manual pdf you can find online gives instructions on how to remove the back panel, and allows you to take out the main electrical chassis. that's where i am...

any guidance from here on out would be great. and my boards... the caps look perfect and shiny. no leakage, warping, or anyting like that...

where to start???

Just today I had the GBLOD with my WD-62725. I've actually had it quite a few times in the past, but removal of power/wait/re-connect power usually fixed the problem.

Also, I have had the GBLOD where what above did not work, so I cleaned out the fan filter and that brought my TV back to life.

Unfortunately, this time none of those fixes worked, so I am going to try to replace the problem capacitors.

I'm at about the same point you are, and I have removed the power supply board and another board. You are going to have to remove all of the cable assembly connections to the boards from the cable bundles that go back into the TV. I have been taking very detailed notes as I have been disassembling the chassis. I've grabbed a sharpie and labeled all of the connectors AND the cables that plug into them so I know where they go back in. Most of the cable connectors are labeled with their own identifiers (like KP or TE) and you could note those too. Once you get those cable bundles off, you can separate the individual chassis easier and then remove the boards from the chassis. It is a royal pain in the ass, but I have managed to get the power supply CCA off and one of the other CCAs off.

For what it's worth, I have found multiple "bulging" capacitors on the power supply board and on the other boards, so I hope that does the trick.

Here's also a site I just found detailing the removal/repair of a WD-52525 for the capacitor replacements.

http://www.freewebs.com/januismer/televisionrepair.htm

I will say, though, I have found bulging capacitors besides the ones on the DM and power supply CCAs, so I will probably just replace all of the larger farad capacitors.

Fellas I went through all this in December with my 65725. What a Pain!

I bought the repair kit from some website, completely necessary. Whatever caps you see swollen, generally the 1000 uf, replace every single one on every board. From what I understand that since the caps are made in batches they are all prone to failure. I struggled and struggled and it turned out to be 4 caps on each of the following: DM, PWR, and FMT boards.

I also bought a new PWR board thinking I needed it, turns out no. So if any of you need one let me know.

To disassemble I highly recommend little bag or containers for screws to separate for each of the various boards and shields. I highly recommend wearing latex gloves and using a grounding cable. To hold the boards while I replaced caps I used the clear plastic cover of DVD and CD spindles. Wasn't the best set up, but it works fine. Also work on a glass table if you have one, just another measure to reduce the possibility of static shocks. Remove all cables from boards as you go, and be careful with the ribbon connectors. DO NOT just pull them out, they have a little lever you actually push toward the board to release the cable.

Good luck!

Just cleaned the mirrors, lens, and bulb face of my big 62 inch Mitsubishi after I had moved it a bit and dusted for the sat guys to install my new service. I have had it for five years and it works great except for the dust it had. Still have the original bulb. After second guessing myself I finally did it and I am very glad I did. Everything just pops out at you now. It's even better than I remember it being brand new. It is as close as you can get to a 3D set without owning one. This thing rivals most LED sets! It is that sharp now after the cleaning. If anyone is on the fence they should just do it! You will not be sorry you did. Just be careful and you have nothing to worry about. It's so easy to do. Lovin my "new" 62 inch Mitsubishi!

Is there a pdf or something to walk you through cleaning the mirrors, lens and bulb face. I would like to give it a shot if it's easy.

My story.

A good friend of mine called me to tell me his dad had a 62" DLP that quit working. He thought it needed a circuit board and since I was in the process of finishing my basement I got it with the intentions of fixing it down the road. It had the blinking green light(I assume that is the BGOD). I loaded it in the back of my truck, took it home, plugged it in and pressed buttons on the front display and the light went off. I hit the power button and it came up just fine showing a blue screen. So I hooked up my HD DISH receiver and it worked just fine. Called the guy I got it from and he said he had his heart set on another TV so just keep it.

2-3 times since Oct 2010 it has done the blinking green light and each time pressing on the buttons has reset it and it has worked fine. I actually made a cabinet sitting in the wall so it fits in the opening and looks great. The other night we watched the superbowl on the TV and I noticed when I hit the DISH menu the info bar at the top was not parrallel with the top of the screen, as in the info bar gets closer to the top of the TV as you go to the right. Not sure if the kids were playing something and accidentally hit the TV jarring something so it is out of allignment or what but right now anyway the HD appears to be just fine picture wise. So I google WD62525 to see if I can figure out what some potential fixes were for that, and the first link takes me to this thread and now I am nervous about my TV. It was free to me so I am not in the same boat as some in this thread but I love the TV down there and hope it sticks with me for awhile.

Anyway, long story short..... Does anybody have any clue what I could do to fix the slant or is that just another symptom of the problems with this TV? And is there a description out there for cleaning as the linked post explains above?

since you are getting the shutdown error you are well on the way to a BGLOD issue. The only way is to see if Mits will repair the chassis (circuit boards) and replace all the capacitors.

Not sure if the alignment issue is capacitor related but you can mess with the convergence or alignment in the service menu and physically adjusting the mirror platter behind the black fabric screen removing the fron access panels.

I got a replacement tv from them after having the initial repair didn't fix it.

SO, I would call Mits and see about getting your chassis repaired and hopefully it will last or get a new model if that fix fails within 1 year for the cost of the repair ($ 300 to $500)

since you are getting the shutdown error you are well on the way to a BGLOD issue. The only way is to see if Mits will repair the chassis (circuit boards) and replace all the capacitors.

Not sure if the alignment issue is capacitor related but you can mess with the convergence or alignment in the service menu and physically adjusting the mirror platter behind the black fabric screen removing the fron access panels.

I got a replacement tv from them after having the initial repair didn't fix it.

SO, I would call Mits and see about getting your chassis repaired and hopefully it will last or get a new model if that fix fails within 1 year for the cost of the repair ($ 300 to $500)

So open the front access door and that gets me access to cleaning the mirrors, lense and bulb parts as well?

So open the front access door and that gets me access to cleaning the mirrors, lense and bulb parts as well?

There are a few screws to take out on the front panel. Once the right hand side panel is out there is a platter adjustment screw for some rudimentary alignment or convergence mirror positioning.

I doubt it got bumped or misaligned unless it got dropped off the stand or something. Likely just the start of a bad board or two.

The access panel on the left should be the bulb housing.

Dot touch the lamp (bulb) with fingers and allow tv to shut down and cool off before taking bulb out.

Shouldn't have to mess with the lamp unless it is blown.

hey fellas, I am thinking about buying this set plus spare bulb for $250 off a guy from craigslist as a stopgap measure hdtv. is it worth it?

hey fellas, I am thinking about buying this set plus spare bulb for $250 off a guy from craigslist as a stopgap measure hdtv. is it worth it?

Personally - I would say "no". Too likely to have trouble in the very near future. Unless you are good with electronics and a soldering iron, I would stay away.

hey fellas, I am thinking about buying this set plus spare bulb for $250 off a guy from craigslist as a stopgap measure hdtv. is it worth it?

Do you have a boat that needs an anchor? That's all they are good for. Don't waste your money.

Do you have a boat that needs an anchor? That's all they are good for. Don't waste your money.

I'll sell you a 62525 for $225 with stand and spare bulb!!!

hahah, boat anchor......good info.

I'll steer clear. there are a lot of cheap DLP's out there on Craig's List for $200ish. people have upgraded and just want these space eaters out of the house. I liked the DLPs for the first few years they came out....but.... I don't know, in hindsight,......it seems like virtually all of them have a relatively short lifespan, color wheels, ect...

are there any 3-4 year old DLP's worth buying for the $200 price?

also, the same guy has a Hitatchi 60v500a for $100, he said it works, but it has a broken "safety switch"/diode on the bulb housing door. he says it works, if you hold in the switch, but it needs to be replaced. how hard/expenisve would it be to replace? I build and overclock computers and am pretty good w/ electronics, but cannot solder wires or anything like that.

also, my friend has a samsung w/ the color wheel out. based on my electronics experience listed above, how hard would it be to replace?

thanks in advance for any feedback/advice.

Been lurking in this thread for about 2 months now and finally have something to post. First, just want to say thanks to everyone who has posted. It's been incredibly helpful in diagnosing & fixing what was actually wrong with my parent's WD-52525 (after they bought 2 new lamps thinking that was the issue :( )

They gave me the TV to do what I want with since they were done with Mitsubishi and replaced it with a Samsung LED. I replaced a dozen visibly bad capacitors and much to my surprise, it actually worked! I know there are a lot more that should be replaced, but that will be a project for later. I know the TV's lifespan will likely be short, but it'll be a nice extra set in the rec room for awhile.

Anyway, it seems to be working fine except for 2 dark spots in the top center of the screen. I figured it was dust on the mirrors so I opened it up and thoroughly cleaned off the mirrors (didn't touch the lens though), but they did not go away. They're so symmetrical it makes me wonder if something is hanging in front of a mirror or inside the screen (if that's even possible), but I didn't see anything when I cleaned them. The lamp is brand new so I don't think that's related. Is it somehow a capacitor issue? Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. I can definitely live with it for a TV that only cost me $15 in parts (so far).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v135/Duren/TV1.jpg

Close-up (sorry, it's a cell phone pic):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v135/Duren/TV2.jpg

hahah, boat anchor......good info.

I'll steer clear. there are a lot of cheap DLP's out there on Craig's List for $200ish. people have upgraded and just want these space eaters out of the house. I liked the DLPs for the first few years they came out....but.... I don't know, in hindsight,......it seems like virtually all of them have a relatively short lifespan, color wheels, ect...

are there any 3-4 year old DLP's worth buying for the $200 price?

also, the same guy has a Hitatchi 60v500a for $100, he said it works, but it has a broken "safety switch"/diode on the bulb housing door. he says it works, if you hold in the switch, but it needs to be replaced. how hard/expenisve would it be to replace? I build and overclock computers and am pretty good w/ electronics, but cannot solder wires or anything like that.

also, my friend has a samsung w/ the color wheel out. based on my electronics experience listed above, how hard would it be to replace?

thanks in advance for any feedback/advice.

The Hitachi is a great set when it works. No DTV-OTA or Cable-QAM tuner though, no HDMI. The door safety switch fix is trivial, I wouldn't even replace it, just tape it in a closed position. Those sets tend to have the bad blue channel problem like all RP-LCDs, with dead blue pixels starting with a few and ending up thousands merging into big blobs. (You know the Hitachi is not a DLP, right?) Ask him if it has any dead blue pixels.

How big is the Samsung?

Picked up a 52725 cheap and used the dm board to get my 62725 working, yea. Got the deal w/ Mits, $300 for a 65738, $210 for a stand, I'll get my warranty thru square trade, yea. Need another dm board, can anyone beat $139? p.s......Still luv the picture from my 62725

Hi,
I have a 52825 that has the BGLOD and a 52725 with static and sparkles on the screen. Contacted Mits, have authorized dealer coming tomorrow to look at both.

Considering I have two bad displays, what can I expect to hear from Mits in terms of an offer?

What are the replacement options (which models)? Is a 3D display and option?

Is an LED display an option?

Those that have received their replacement displays, are you happy with the replacement?

Are there issues with the replacement displays?

Thank you.

Update:
I had the service center out and they wrote up both my TVs for replacement. I am moving forward but would still like to get your input on the above questions.

Thank you.

I will look

I received a WD 60738 to replace my 52525 for $400 including shipping and a WD65838 to replace my 62725 for $910 with stand and shipping -

I am happy with the negotiation....

I am a Mit WD-62525 owner. Purchased in Nov of 2004 with a 5 year warranty for a total of $4700. Similar problems to many that have posted. Picture went out and "Replace Lamp" light was flashing. I purchased a replacement lamp and installed it, but there was still no picture and the "Replace Lamp" light was still flashing. That's when I hit the internet searching for answers and came across this thread. I had a Mit authorized service tech come out and the repair estimate was $544.55. I am looking to work out the best deal I can with Mitsubishi for a replacement TV or a store credit.

A couple questions.

1. Is there a specific branch of the Mitsubishi service department I should deal with?

2. Based on my particulars, any guesses on what the best offer I can expect to get from Mitsubishi for a replacement TV or store credit?

3. Some people on this thread who are getting replacement Mit DLP TVs are also purchasing new stands. Do the new model WD-65738 & WD-65838s not fit on the stands that were made for the older models (such as my WD-62525 stand)?

Thanks to all for the great information on this thread.

Thank you for the replies. I received an offer for a WD65838 shipped for $650.00 to replace my 52825. Does this sound like a reasonable offer?

killer deal imho. Not only was the price right , they bumped you up to the top of their line in a 65 inch. wtg

My Mits died a couple of weeks ago for the second time (it had a 3 month chassis rebuild in 2009) in it's short life. I was all set to replace it with a Samsung Plasma and had decided to wait until the 2011's come out when I remembered to check this thread. Once I found out that Mits was offering new sets, I contacted them and took my tv into a local repair shop. For $70 they diagnosed multiple caps had to be replaced for an approximate cost of $350. I sent this into Mits with my original $4400 receipt and overall problem discription and history. I got a call back saying the estimate needed to be a detailed parts and labor. All I could get from my repair people is $70 parts and $280 labor as they have to test the set as they replace caps so they don't know exactly which ones are bad until they do this. I sent this new estimate to Mits. Mits called the repair people this morning for further discussion and then Mits called me a little later and offered me a WD-65738 for $300 + $150 shipping saying the repair people wanted to rebuild the power board and Mits's policy is to redo the whole chassis so thus the new tv offer. The repair people told me later that, no, they told Mits it needed new caps whereever they were found bad. Anyway, from this thread, I knew this to be a decent deal so now to get a money order and start that process. I just wanted to share my experience with all, since this forum has been such a wealth of information to me over the years I've owned this set. Thanks.

I have a 52725 that has had boards replaced 4 times now. I believe every part in the TV has been changed except the light engine itself.

Recently my TV has been flickering on the PC input, i can see a rolling pattern in my RGB-Component inputs, and my cable card has stopped functioning.

I'm ready to replace every single CAP in the TV. Can anyone recommend a good site to purchase all of the CAPs? I found a site but it says it only has 35 CAPs in it. That can't be right...

http://www.tvrepairkits.com/xcart/product.php?productid=24917&cat=4046&page=1

OR

$72 for this one which contains all of the following...
http://www.tvrepairworld.com/mitsubishi_repair_kits (WD52525-WD62525, WD52625-WD62625, WD52725-WD62725)

Mitsubishi V26 Chassis Capacitors.
This kit contains all the capacitors for the entire chassis that are known to fail in the V26 Chassis DLP. This is just the capacitors and doesnt not include the instruction CD. The capacitors included are the following.

Terminal 1 board
CL203 1000uF 10V

Terminal 2 board
C2M28 1000uF 10V
C2M29 1000uF 10v

FMT board
C8F19 1000uF 16V
C8F21 1000uF 16V
C8F22 1000uF 16V
C8F27 1000uF 16V

DM board
C81A2 1000uF 16V
C81A3 1000uF 16V
C81B3 1000uF 16V
C81B4 1000uF 16V

Signal board
C8788 330uF 16V
C8738 330uF 16V
C8717 330uF 16V
C8761 330uF 16V
C8780 330uF 16V
C8798 330uF 16V
C87A3 330uF 16V
C8797 330uF 25V
C8710 330uF 10V Replace with 330uF 16V
C8727 330uF 10V Replace with 330uF 16V
C87A0 330uF 10V Replace with 330uF 16V
C87A7 330uF 10V Replace with 330uF 16V
C3E51 470uF 35V
C3E52 470uF 35V
C3E53 470uF 35V
C3E54 470uF 35V

Power Supply
C9A52 1000uF 16V
C9A51 1000uF 16V
C9A61 1000uF 16V
C9A62 1000uF 16V
C9A39 2200uF 35V
C9A40 2200uF 35V
C9A37 3300uF 16V
C9A38 3300uF 16V

Mits called the repair people this morning for further discussion and then Mits called me a little later and offered me a WD-65738 for $300 + $150 shipping

After 2 chassis rebuilds on my 52725 under warranty, Mitsu wanted to offer me a new set, but 1: the space in the downstairs family room where my old Mitsu had been relegated could not accommodate a large set and 2: after my experience with Mits dlp's, I wanted nothing to do with another Mitsu. I talked them into giving me store credit where I had purchased the set. They offered me $645. I took it and got a 46 inch Sony for less than $200.

I have the same issue. I have mine built into a wall. The whole wall was designed around the TV. At the time I didn't mind spending $4000 on a television because I planned on having it for 20 years. They TV has had over 10 service calls since 2004. It's never worked right since I've owned it.

There is no way I could get store credit because I bought it from Tweeter and they've since gone out of business.

Mitsubishi would have you goto the next Mitsubishi store near you for the replacement. That is what they did for me.

Well, my WD-62725 got the "blinking green light of death" for the second time. The first time I was able to resuscitate it by unplugging it for an hour. This time there was no bringing it back. It's been a great set for nearly 6 years but, its day is done.

I went to HH Gregg, bought a new LG 55LW5600 LED unit and had them haul off the Mits. The LG is very nice so I quickly forgot about the Mits. I sure hope the LG lasts longer than 6 years! I've never had a TV die that fast.

Finally trashing my WD-62825 after relegating it to gaming duties a year ago with the arrival of my Panasonic plasma. The Mitsushiti was very typical, two chassis replacements, bulbs, BGLOD, etc. Finally got a descent buy out from the warranty company. Will never own anything from Mitsubishi again after how bad this unit and their customer service was.

If are located in Houston and are interested in the unit for parts or possible repair you can have it for free, just pick it up. It is still working but the wavy lines and sparkles have returned on the HDMI input.

Send me a message if you want it, I'll hold it for a couple of weeks.

Hi all, I'm finally ready to get rid of this thing. Needs chassis replacement, or probably just some caps replaced. I don't have the life-force to deal with it anymore.

Question....does it have value for parts? Or should I just take it to the dump?

Hi all, I'm finally ready to get rid of this thing. Needs chassis replacement, or probably just some caps replaced. I don't have the life-force to deal with it anymore.

Question....does it have value for parts? Or should I just take it to the dump?

Never simply discard a tv like this. Absolute worst case, Craigslist $50. Someone will take it. More for 65" and over.

It's better to ask a small amount on Craigslist than to put it in the Craigslist free section, as you will be deluged with responses if you do that, and after doing research 90% of those people won't show up. There are tv repair shops that buy tvs like these up for refurb, or they break it down and sell the parts on ebay.

Thanks Chuck, that's good info.
All - please PM me if you are in the DFW area (north) and interested in taking this thing off my hands ... make me an offer. Thanks.

Mine has died at some point in the last couple of weeks, too.

I had the power board replaced under warranty about 3 years into owning it (swollen caps). Now it seems to blink the green LED on the front panel about 11-12 times, pauses, then repeats indefinitely. It also makes very quiet clicking noises that seem to come from the right rear side.

I just don't want to deal with it anymore, and I am likely to just buy a new TV at Best Buy and take advantage of their free haul-away of the old TV. This thing is so big and bulky and awkward to carry that I have no interest in trying to wrestle it up the basement stairs. The damn thing weighs about 170 lbs if i remember correctly, and there are no convenient hand holds. I had it delivered by best buy in 2004, and they can HAVE it back! I remember watching the delivery guys struggling with it when they brought it down the stairs - I can only imagine how tough it would be to haul it back up.

If anyone here is in West Michigan and is willing to move it out of my house, they can have it! (It is a WD-62525).

sad to see you guys with all the issues with the 725 sets. mine is still going strong with not one issue. just gotta change the bulb the third time around with mine. no warranty either. i don't want to give up my clear screen for a matte mitsu 2011. i still want a new dlp but i don't think i can afford the clear contrast types.

well...I have a problem that I am having trouble fixing. I have had to replace the bulb once (fair enough for this TV, a Model 62725.) I am getting what appears to be magenta bands from the upper right to the lower left on then screen regardless of input (sometimes they are from upper left to lower right.) any idea what this could be?

I have attached a small video clip.
sad picture quality (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/31725706/tvvideoflicker.AVI)

Thanks for any advice.

PS How do I get into the service menu to check convergence etc...??

Hello,
I friend just gave me a wd-52725 TV. The TV turns on, but the picture is very dark. I have tried all of the inputs. The menu screens come up clear and look fine. The TV sat in a finished basement for two years and was not used. Before it sat it worked just fine. Any ideas what may be causing this darkness issue? It is like you are always watching a night seen in a movie. I cleaned the lens and mirrors to no avail. If I run cable directly to the tv some channels look ok. I am fairly good with my hands and would like to try to fix it myself. Thanks

I have a 52725.

I now has the BGLOD and it is also time to replace the bulb.

It is even worth trying to fix these anymore? Mine was purchased in 2004.

My concern is that I get the boards rebuilt then something else craps out and money is wasted.

Thoughts?

My 62525 died about 2 months ago, and it has been sitting idle ever since then as I wait to see what I want to replace it with. I don't plan to even bother getting it fixed - I will try to buy from someplace that will haul away the old TV so I don't have to deal with it.

My 62525 died about 2 months ago, and it has been sitting idle ever since then as I wait to see what I want to replace it with. I don't plan to even bother getting it fixed - I will try to buy from someplace that will haul away the old TV so I don't have to deal with it.

Sell it on Craigslist for $100-150. A big 62 is worth fixing.

Sell it on Craigslist for $100-150. A big 62 is worth fixing.

I thought about it, but the tough part is going to be getting it out of my basement. I watched the guys from BB deliver it and they were STRUGGLING with it. I have moved it off the stand and onto the floor - that that was tough enough. It is very difficult to get handholds on these things - and it weighs a good 160 lbs!

Maybe if I can sell it and tell the buyer that they are solely responsible for removing it from the house in one piece.

I called them today in the hope that they will offer me a store credit for the place I bought it from (Best Buy). I got the usual story - they told me who to call and get an estimate for the repairs, and that I needed to provide a copy of the original receipt ($4500) and the estimate, as well as records that I had the power board replaced under the Best Buy extended warranty.

I can't call the repair facility until Tuesday, but I am hoping they can do an "over the phone" diagnosis as I have heard others mention sometimes happens.

I managed to find the original receipt (and I got Best Buy to email it to me), but I can't find any documentation of the power board replacement. I tried calling Best Buy again, but they claim to have no record of any service being done to the TV (even though they actually replaced the lamp on one occasion, came out to diagnose the power board, and then came a third time to replace the board when the part finally arrived).

So in your opinion(s), will it hurt my case to get some sort of help from Mits without proof of the previous power board failure?

I told them I was getting wavy lines, and then the TV just died with the green blinking light.

My TV is a WD-62525 - what do you think they might offer for store credit if I can talk them into it? And what is everyone's experience of the cost of getting an estimate? Do they have to actually tear the TV apart and inspect things? Or if they are an Authorized Mits Repair center, will they be aware of the problem and basically just come out, confirm that my description of the problem is accurate, and then throw out a number for chassis replacement/rebuild? What should I expect to pay the service company for the estimate?

And does Mits "automatically" just offer a new TV for discounted price, or do they sometimes just offer to pay for part of the repair? I DON'T want it repaired - I want to get it replaced!

Thanks

I ended up replacing 4 bad caps on my dm board. My picture is still really dark. But, here is the thing. If I put it on PIP the screen looks great. Good color. When I switch it back it goes dark again. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. My wife is getting sick of this thing taking up space in the basement. Thanks

Well I can tell you that I replaced all the bog caps on the Power board, the cap on the ballast and a bunch of others and I got the TV working again. for about 6 months that is. It just quit again this weekend and now I need to pull it apart and look again.

Could be the lamp though. I will try that first as I heard it try to fire it up and I now have a red lamp light after resetting it

Hey all...

Looks like I am being offerred a WD73740 as a replacement for my WD62525. Unfortunately I missed the call and they left a voicemail but didn't mention the price in the voicemail! So now I will have to wait until Monday to find out the price. I am wondering what they will offer. I had the power board replaced under warranty in 2007, and now the electrical chassis has failed. They actually first offered to cover the cost of the replacement chassis, and I would have to pay for the labor (about $300). I asked about the possibility of a replacement when they called me on Tuesday, and today (Friday) they left me the message.

Anyone else been offered this TV for the model that I have? Just curious what price they offered.

I think I would go for it if they were about $850 or less (shipped). I think that is wishful thinking...

XX725 Latest Firmware???

I have a 62725 that I've fixed up and have up and running in my basement. What's the latest and greatest firmware? I have V26.004.08. Any newer?

Got Comcast to come and install a Cablecard. Seems OK...expect I lost HBOHD (CH300). It was there originally..now disappeared.

Has anyone had any luck getting Mitsu give them some sort of credit without having to get a bunch of estimates and such? I replaced some caps two years ago and am now starting to get static, as well as purple lines on the TV, and of course every couple of days the green light starts blinking until I un-plug the TV. I'm going to take another shot at replacing some more caps, but I'm not overly optimistic that it will fix all of my problems. I'd really like to just get one of their new DLPs (although i might be crazy for getting another mitsu after all the nonsense with this one).

I did with my WD-62725 and I got a new WD-65835 and I love this TV 100% more than my 65725.

So I was getting a bunch of purple lines on my screen and decided I'd check it to see if any capacitors were blown. A similar problem happened to me about two years ago, and I replaced some caps and it was fine after that. I pulled up the chassis, and had a look at the power board, and sure enough a few more caps were bulging. I ordered the replacements, and in the mean time put everything back together.

Unfortunately, now the tv won't even turn on. When I plug it in, the fan comes on, and it blinks green for a minute or so as is normal. However then when I hit the power button, the green light comes on, but nothing else happens, no fan, no picture, nothing. Hit the power button again and it the power led immediatly goes out. I did the error check, and get "12" which is no errors. I've pulled it apart and double checked that I put everything back together properly, and it all looks good.

Anyone have anythoughts on what else I could check or do?

I finally got rid of my 62525 today (repair company was kind enough to take it off my hands and even helped carry it from my basement). Damn those things are heavy!

My replacement WD73740 is being delivered tomorrow morning, thanks to what I thought was a very decent offer from Mitsubishi.

Good luck to all of you with your TVs!

Thanks
Jeff

Well I have a WD-62825 Diamond DLP with intermittent failure to power up which currently can be cured by unplugging from wall and plugging back in. It also has snow in picture most noteable when picture is dark, and the wavy green and purple lines at times.

I have contacted at authorized repair center and gotten a repair estimate, and contacted Mitsubishi Customer Relations for assistance. Considering all I have read in this thread I am hopeing they offer to replace the set with a current Diamond model at a greatly reduced price which would be a WD-73840. Has anyone been offered this as a replacement, and also is there any feedback on the reliability of the new models compared to the obvious problems that has been seen with the 2004-2006 or so models.

I have the snow sparkles on blacks, and I recently experienced the wavy green lines.. but they seemed to have gone dormant after a few days.. I haven't contacted Mitsubishi.. but I'm curious where you end up.. Mine is the 62725 model. I'm seriously considering going w/ a projector next, but I need input on that.. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=20903569)

Please update with your progress w/ Mitsubishi! Thanks!

Well I have a WD-62825 Diamond DLP with intermittent failure to power up which currently can be cured by unplugging from wall and plugging back in. It also has snow in picture most noteable when picture is dark, and the wavy green and purple lines at times.

I have contacted at authorized repair center and gotten a repair estimate, and contacted Mitsubishi Customer Relations for assistance. Considering all I have read in this thread I am hopeing they offer to replace the set with a current Diamond model at a greatly reduced price which would be a WD-73840. Has anyone been offered this as a replacement, and also is there any feedback on the reliability of the new models compared to the obvious problems that has been seen with the 2004-2006 or so models.

I had the 62525 model (the lowest end version of that era), and initially they just offered to cover the part and I had to pay labor. I asked about an outright replacement, and they came back a few days later and offered the 73740 (mid-range model) for $858 shipped.

So given that you have the high-end model, I would be surprised if they DIDN'T offer you the 73840. And if they don't - I would push for it. I think they would go for it.

Good luck!

Well they just called back and offered to pay for parts, with me paying for the labor and I told them that I was concerned with the track record of this model and was more interested in replacement. The person I talked to said she was unable to make that offer and would forward the information to the people who make those decisions and they would get back to me in a couple of days.

Well they just called back and offered to pay for parts, with me paying for the labor and I told them that I was concerned with the track record of this model and was more interested in replacement. The person I talked to said she was unable to make that offer and would forward the information to the people who make those decisions and they would get back to me in a couple of days.

Sounds like the same way mine worked too...they file the paperwork and then call you back.

I think pricing is always the unknown in these cases. They may give you a very low offer (as I think I got), or a higher one (I heard of someone else who was quoted in the $1300 range for the same TV as my replacement, and they actually had a higher end and/or newer TV than 62525).

You guys inspired me. I faxed a letter to Mitsubishi Consumer Relations regarding my WD-62725 experiencing the snow and green bars.. demanding a replacement, not repairs at my expense of a problem riddled TV.

Any advice for further procedures to get the best offer out of them?

Hey guys,

I'm trying to help out a friend with the BGLOD on a WD-52725...

From what I've read, it looks like the most likely cause is some bad capacitors on one of the boards in the tv. No problem for me and him being senior electrical engineering students. I was just hoping someone could point me to some instructions and parts list for the repair.

I don't necessarily want a kit, I'm capable of ordering properly spec'd parts from an electrical distributor but I do need to know what caps are there, preferably before opening it up.

Thank you so much!

hockeyrcks9901, check out this post:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=18480253&highlight=radio+shack#post18480253

Well I guess my story is similar to many here...LOL

So I bought my WD-52725 in Jan 05, had the "open heart surgery" to the chasis in Nov 08 (bulb replaced as well on my 4th bulb now btw) and now I have the BGLOD!!! Yeahh :( :( I paid 3200 for what I was hoping was going to be a long term solution for a tv.. well, today I called Mits pretty irate about this, and they're sending someone out to take a look at the tv. I have all of my receipts ... I guess what can I expect to happen? What should I do more so to get a bigger better TV IF they offer...

Thanks
P

Apparently faxing Mitsubishi does no good.. i've sent my fax twice and heard nothing.. if only I had time to call them during the day!

You guys inspired me. I faxed a letter to Mitsubishi Consumer Relations regarding my WD-62725 experiencing the snow and green bars.. demanding a replacement, not repairs at my expense of a problem riddled TV.

Any advice for further procedures to get the best offer out of them?

Apparently faxing Mitsubishi does no good.. i've sent my fax twice and heard nothing.. if only I had time to call them during the day!

When I was talking to the rep yesterday, he gave me their email and a fax to get them the paperwork after the diagnostic by the tech. I'd call and get a poc.

-P

Well the only option I was given was they supply the rebuilt chassis to repair my set and I pay the labor. I explained I was concerned with the poor record of this line of TV's but even though mine was more recently bought then some here who have recieved replacement sets they would not up their offer. All I can do is cross my fingers and hope they have figured out how to rebuild these chassis so they don't fail again.

Well the only option I was given was they supply the rebuilt chassis to repair my set and I pay the labor. I explained I was concerned with the poor record of this line of TV's but even though mine was more recently bought then some here who have recieved replacement sets they would not up their offer. All I can do is cross my fingers and hope they have figured out how to rebuild these chassis so they don't fail again.

They rebuilt mine already in 08, and it has possibly failed again if they offer to rebuild it again I'm going to fly it out to Cali and give it back to them sideways! LOL

I'm prepared for the worst in this situation, I'll end up having to buy a new tv and if I have "buy" one it sure as hell won't be a MITS!

-P

well, i guess it's my turn...
have WD52725 with continuous BGLOD and no audio nor video. removed chassis, removed boards, examined each one and...caps all look good. paid close attention to DM board and again, caps all look good
questions:
-do i button it all back together, throw a hail mary and hope for the best?
-should i order a rebuild kit tvrepairkits.com and swap out caps?

your thoughts please

Sounds like the same way mine worked too...they file the paperwork and then call you back.

I think pricing is always the unknown in these cases. They may give you a very low offer (as I think I got), or a higher one (I heard of someone else who was quoted in the $1300 range for the same TV as my replacement, and they actually had a higher end and/or newer TV than 62525).

Yeah, I have the WD 62725 which had a Chassis rebuild and they offered me a WD 65738 for $910 with a stand a year ago.

Waited until the 2011/2012 models and they offered me the WD 73740 for $1422 with the stand ($1200 plus $222 for stand)

Not as good a deal as spiff but my deal was kinda stagnant since I had a decent offer a year ago.

I had a 52525 that I also had issues and they gave me a WD 60738 for $400 - forgoed the stand...

Well I will add to this list of issues with this TV. And at the moment buying a new TV is not an option only repair.

I have included some images of the screen on. As you can see there are static lines that scroll the screen.

Also I have not changed out any CAPS.

Any ideas?

Well tomorrow is part II of my saga, Mr. Ross Factory Outlet will be coming to my house to evaluate my BGLOD.. I'm hoping he will be open to my request for him to quote the "need to rebuild the chasis"... or as I read from someone somewhere on the wonder world of the interwebeticals "That I should reveal that I know about the chasis issues (since this would be my 2nd) and that I would be getting Mits to assist...and prefer an estimate to have the chasis rebuilt by Mits" and he will document that for me to immediately email him my scanned docs and hopefully hear something by friday what the deal is.
It took them a week to fax a stupid document to the Repair guy so I can only imagine how long this whole thing will take..
I just want a tv that will last longer than a couple years, especially since I spent 4k total on this and it's been a total bucket of pooh!

oh and a.d.i.d.a.s i had some that digitizing as well.. yeah, more issues lol..
-P

So does anyone know what would cause this "digitizing"?

Thank you

Wow just got the quote from the TV Repair co, $954 to fix the tv. Man that is just nuts! It is official, my WD-52725 is now D.E.A.D. :( I'm guessing I'll have to move it out to the ole dumpster.. sad really.

-P

Wow just got the quote from the TV Repair co, $954 to fix the tv. Man that is just nuts! It is official, my WD-52725 is now D.E.A.D. :( I'm guessing I'll have to move it out to the ole dumpster.. sad really.

-P

I would contact Mitsubishi customer service, they proubly will at least offer to pay for the parts. If you are lucky they will offer to replace the TV for a reduced cost. Each offer seems to be different. In my case they paid for parts and I paid for labor. TV is currently working hopefully it will continue to do so.

I would contact Mitsubishi customer service, they proubly will at least offer to pay for the parts. If you are lucky they will offer to replace the TV for a reduced cost. Each offer seems to be different. In my case they paid for parts and I paid for labor. TV is currently working hopefully it will continue to do so.

I explained to them again on friday that inthe 6 years I've had the TV it has also burned through approx 5 bulbs (6 including this one that needs replaced as well), so not only does it need A SECOND chasis rebuild, but the ballast is probably bad as well!!! So add that in as well, I don't want parts! I've invested 600 in bulbs on top of all the other work that's taken place.. the tv has fallen off the map and has been unwatchable! For a $3200 it's been a total fail! I thought it was me, but people would ask me "why'd you get this tv? The picture is terrible" all that for 3200! lol

-P

They offered to pay for the parts and for me to pay the labor, and I denied I requested a credit and to expedite this as I've been without a TV for sometime now. I hate dealing with this, I just want a Damn TV!!!! I really can't wait to be done with this whole situation..

-P

It sounds as if Mits has changed their stance on how to deal with the 52725's etc, I'm going to end up with zero on this deal. The repair calls for light engine, chasis, ballast and the like I provided plenty of information to them but they are not interested in any of the information I provide.

Anyone have any advice? I'm just pissed..

-P

Surprisingly after I blew up on them, they offered me a 73738 for $500 + 200 for shipping.

Not a bad deal I guess. Now I just need $700 LOL...anyone want to buy a 52725 that doesn't work for $700? LOL

-p

Too bad you don't have someone locally who can rebuild the chassis so it lasts longer. But if you're convinced the LE is bad too, it's time to move on. Good luck.

Too bad you don't have someone locally who can rebuild the chassis so it lasts longer. But if you're convinced the LE is bad too, it's time to move on. Good luck.

Was just telling my wife, for the price of the labor we get a newer bigger better tv.. not a bad deal. I just have to find the money to do it.. I figure I won't be able too, but I can hope.

I don't want to sell a guitar or amp, but may have to to get this :( :( :(

-P

well my tv has officially died i believe. sheesh. had such good luck with the set since i bought it at Fryes back in 1995. recently did my third bulb change a few months back. last week it suddenly shut off on my neighbor who was going to play a video game. took me a bit to get the tv back on. the picture seemed darker too recently. some white speckles dancing on the screen. the tv shut off again too this week out of the blue. today it finally said the hell with me. i got the solid red light today. a few minutes later it turned to a blinking red light. i can hit the reset button and the tv makes a bit of noise as if it's trying to operate but then stops after a few seconds. screen never turns on.

this is a bummer to me since i can't afford another tv entirely. is my tv really gone? i'm not putting money into this thing either. that's a waste for this old beast.

Was just telling my wife, for the price of the labor we get a newer bigger better tv.. not a bad deal. I just have to find the money to do it.. I figure I won't be able too, but I can hope.

I don't want to sell a guitar or amp, but may have to to get this :( :( :(

-P

Well, I sent my money out today for my replacement TV, they must have run out of 73738's because they're replacing my 52725 with a 73740 now. It was funny because a week and a half ago I receive my offer letter via email, and I called to verify the $'s on it. Then 10 mins later, I get a call back (7pm est) and they guy says "I want to verify you are receiving a 73740" I said so you ran out of 73738's (with a giggle) he said uhhhh yeah. WINNING! (finally get to use it for real LOL) so I hope to have my 73740 in 2 weeks or so ...

Can't wait...

Pete

Wow.. still waiting! I have some questions for those who received a replacement TV..
1) how long did it take to receive it?
2) who was the shipping company? I have AIT, and man for the past 4 days they've been checking in the TV, and God knows what else..
3) what was the turnaround till delivery?

They received my money on the 24th @8am... so I'm over the 10 business days, and they don't even know where the TV is.

anyone in the NJ/PA/DE area want to buy this thing..I never want to deal with this .02 cent company ever again.. the whole situation 2 months of it has been a battle! rediculous..

Anybody have info please let me know... I'm starting a thread on this too not sure who reads this anymore.

-P

Wow.. still waiting! I have some questions for those who received a replacement TV..
1) how long did it take to receive it?
2) who was the shipping company? I have AIT, and man for the past 4 days they've been checking in the TV, and God knows what else..
3) what was the turnaround till delivery?

They received my money on the 24th @8am... so I'm over the 10 business days, and they don't even know where the TV is.

anyone in the NJ/PA/DE area want to buy this thing..I never want to deal with this .02 cent company ever again.. the whole situation 2 months of it has been a battle! rediculous..

Anybody have info please let me know... I'm starting a thread on this too not sure who reads this anymore.

-P

I mailed them my cashiers check on August 9 (from Michigan) and the TV was delivered on September 2nd. I think the payment was probably received by Mitsubishi by August 15.

Mine was handled by AIT also, but they just deliver to a depot locally, and that company takes it the "last mile".

I mailed them my cashiers check on August 9 (from Michigan) and the TV was delivered on September 2nd. I think the payment was probably received by Mitsubishi by August 15.

Mine was handled by AIT also, but they just deliver to a depot locally, and that company takes it the "last mile".

Thanks spiff, I just hate the BS that I get fed by whoever I seem to speak too.. "it's at the site, to call and schedule delivery" so i do and they say oh, we dont' have it yet... they'll call you tonight or tomorrow am (that was last night btw) then today I get they'll call you @ noon, then They'll call you late this week or next.. it's so frustrating because nobody from mits in the Philipines mits in the us or AIT here or there know wtf is going on no. There' online status states:
ARRIVED @ LOCAL SORT FACILITY 2011-11-04 7:48 AM

Nobody not even their web has a GD clue what's going on.. so frustrating!

Thanks spiff!
Pete

Thanks spiff, I just hate the BS that I get fed by whoever I seem to speak too.. "it's at the site, to call and schedule delivery" so i do and they say oh, we dont' have it yet... they'll call you tonight or tomorrow am (that was last night btw) then today I get they'll call you @ noon, then They'll call you late this week or next.. it's so frustrating because nobody from mits in the Philipines mits in the us or AIT here or there know wtf is going on no. There' online status states:
ARRIVED @ LOCAL SORT FACILITY 2011-11-04 7:48 AM

Nobody not even their web has a GD clue what's going on.. so frustrating!

Thanks spiff!
Pete
The only part of my delivery that went badly was the delivery itself. They called it "white glove" delivery - which is supposed to mean that they place the TV on the stand in your house, but the truck showed up with just one guy, and he wasn't excited about carrying the TV to my basement. I ended up helping him carry it down. Then he was ready to hit the road and I told him I wanted to open it and inspect for damage. So he slashed the box open and pulled it off.

EDIT: I also had to practically beg for him to take away the packaging.

I had to wait for my wife to get home before I could plug it in and make sure it worked.

When Mitsubishi called to make sure everything was to my satisfaction I let them have it about the delivery.

I tried to get them to refund the shipping cost or maybe just send me a couple of pairs of 3D glasses, but that went nowhere. I am sure you will get a similar call soon and you can take that opportunity to vent. :D

With all the replacements going on, does the tv need to be present for any of the steps? I'm about to donate mine. It is taking too much room. Anyone in Austin need a 62725 for spare parts?

If they said they are going to replace the TV you are responsible for disposal. I would wait for them send you your replacement letter, before you do anything. Once they do it will state you're responsible...

If they deny your replacement you still may still want to get the tv fixed...

-P

Selling my broken WD-62725 for cheap. Local pickup only in greater Seattle area
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290640261707

Apparently something is going on here in the Seattle area... lol.

So, I have a WD-52525 that I've decided to "give up" on. I have repaired the power supply board and then discovered that at least one other board had the bulged caps. I'm less than enthused about pulling that one apart and making the repairs when I expect that I'll need to downsize soon anyway.

So, my decision is your opportunity for spare parts or repair parts. I'm willing prevent at least some of this from going into a landfill and helping you keep your Mitsu. TV working by parting it out.

I'm in Washington State, North of Seattle (98203) and I'm willing to ship parts. With the possible exception of a few select parts, I'm willing to do this for the cost of packing and shipping.

I have the full manual plus the schematic and the board breakdown and blow up diagram, so I'm pretty confident that I can find what you want. But if its a lot of messing to remove what you want, I'm likely to either say no or ask for a few dollars to offset the PITA (more likely to say no.)

I'll ship via USPS and I'm willing to accept payment for postage via Paypal but the received payment (what I receive, not what Paypal receives from you) has to cover the costs.

I can supply pics, but I'm not so willing to spend all my time uploading photos for people that are just looking.

I'll consider reasonable requests (as I noted above) but remember, this is something that is free. I'm not going to work too hard, and everything is pretty much "as is". If you want some little part that is hard to get out, you get the whole assembly, take it or leave it.

Lastly, I'm probably on a bit of a time line on this. I don't know when I need to have it gone, not for a couple of weeks yet anyway, but this is not an offer that is going to go on for many weeks or months.

Contact me if interested. You can reach me at gfhopper at gmail dot com.

Hello all...I purchased a Mits WD-62725 in 2005. I started seeing the "wavy interference-type" lines about a year and a half ago, but they seemed to dissipate as the set warmed up. I've also had the problem with the blinking power light and not being able to power the set on until I unplug and re-plug it in. The wavy lines are now increasing and even warming up the set doesn't get rid of them. I just stumbled across this thread and I'm a little ticked at myself for not investigating this when it first happened. Looks like I'm not alone in this problem. I've seen some posts here about Mits offering replacements/discounted upgrades. What do you think my chances are of Mits offering me a replacement or a discounted upgrade after owning the set for 6 years? What's the best approach to use with a Mits rep?

If it's your first repair, I'm thinking they may just offer to rebuild the chassis for free. You'll likely be responsible for service charges involved in the swap. But you may get lucky and they fix it all for free. Or extremely lucky and they offer you an upgrade at a discounted price. Good luck.

picked up a 62725 today with stand for $50.00. Two 1500 uF caps in the main power board were bulging so I replaced them and it works good as new.

My other 62725 that I fixed 3 years ago was starting to get lines and the purple/green vertical stripes. I'm going to take it apart tomorrow and see if I can't find the caps that are causing that...

picked up a 62725 today with stand for $50.00. Two 1500 uF caps in the main power board were bulging so I replaced them and it works good as new.

My other 62725 that I fixed 3 years ago was starting to get lines and the purple/green vertical stripes. I'm going to take it apart tomorrow and see if I can't find the caps that are causing that...

That is the problem with my set...I think...can you post a picture of what the problem looks like on your screen?

Well, I already took the set apart, so no. If it still exhibits the symptoms after I replace some caps, I'll take a picture then. It was still watchable, just annoying with the moving horizontal lines and then the thick green/purple vertical lines that didn't move.

It had been a long time since I posted here. My '04 WD-52725 is still chugging. I had it repaired about a year ago in Minneapolis. Had the usual bulging cap problem.
My question is now, is anybody using the HDMI port on this set? I got a deal on a Blu-Ray DVD player and want to use the HDMI because the player doesn't have any component output, only HDMI. I had some issues where the repair guy said that the version of HDMI on the 52725 was not compatible with the newer components out there. I was wondering with all the newer technology there might be a glimmer of hope that with new cables and stuff it might be viable. Any response would be greatly appreciated

Lyle

HDMI should be backwards compatible, you just won't get all the 'features' permitted by the newer spec. I used HDMI on my 62725 with no problems at all. Go for it!

HDMI should be backwards compatible, you just won't get all the 'features' permitted by the newer spec. I used HDMI on my 62725 with no problems at all. Go for it!

Sounds promising. Thanks for the super quick response. Just wondering what those "features" might be. I do have optical audio connected, to a Denon 2310ci, so that won't be a problem.
Thanks again:

Lyle

I used the hdmi from my FiOS box, but had to use the optical for the sound.

I was pretty po'd when my 52725 died, but after having my 73780 for the last 2months or so I love it... only wish I could have gotten the 82 :) call me greedy :) LOL

-P

I did some reading and ordered one of these units. It's a plan "B" you might say. Just in case the HDMI in the Mits is crap. If anyone has tried this thing, please let me know what to expect. I think it will be here on Friday or for sure Monday. I do want to be able to use the new player until I get the new LED or LCD I would like to have.
Thanks:

Lyle

I did some reading and ordered one of these units. It's a plan "B" you might say. Just in case the HDMI in the Mits is crap. If anyone has tried this thing, please let me know what to expect. I think it will be here on Friday or for sure Monday. I do want to be able to use the new player until I get the new LED or LCD I would like to have.
Thanks:

Lyle

Just a quick update for information. I ordered HIGH SPEED HDMI cables from Monoprice thinking I had to get the most recent cables if I wanted to get the best quality from the new Blu Ray Player. ( The ones that have the HDMI logo on them ) Lo and Behold, these did the trick. The HDMI port on the ancient Mits 52725 sprang to life and carried all of the signals from the old Blu Ray player, the Dish VIP 722 receiver and my Apple iTV unit.
I can't believe the old TV still has some life left.

Lyle

I have two of these non-working I am getting rid of..anyone in the Charlotte NC area interested PM me.

Mitsubishi Rep called me Friday & said they lost class action suit and would fix my set for free or give me dealer price free shipping on any of their new TV's. Smallest 73 up to 92. He is going to call back tomorrow said to look around on site. I see 73's 82's & 92's. All DLP which I was surprised. Didn't know still made them. I do like DLP quality. Their dealer price on some sets not impressive. I can get same price other places but it kind of looks like higher end like XX840 models are best bang for buck on dealer price. I don't have all but here is what they gave me. For 73C11 & 73640 $1125 / WD-73740 $1360 / WD-73840 $1560. What are your thoughts? Would you let them repair old or do these sound like too good of deal to pass up at this time. My problem is I have solid Red Lamp Light. Bought 2004. Replaced lamp same issue. Tried lamp in another 62725 and works. Has been in for rebuild to mits when under 5 yr contract. They have caps diodes etc marked with red sharpie I assume they replaced. 2 are the 3300 uF and the group of 1000 uF which is strange because they replaced with 680 uF for some reason. I compared in svc manual and it is where the 1000's should be so I bought 4 1000s and put in hoping but no go. This was after I measured 327 Volts DC input to ballast and manual said suspect ballast so replaced but no fix. I have every voltage on power supply board they call out for on test points. Even the 6 volt line I have the 7.1 exactly as I seen on one post. I see there is only one other connector to ballast board suspect logic type very large guage wires 4 of them (2 red 2 yellow) traced back to board just inside cage on back side power supply board. I wrang out E2E and none open. Started tearing into cage to see board and geeesh...I'm doig something wrong, shouldnt be this hard to get into. Can anyone explain the theory of operation for the lamp circuit. I figured when I got the 340 volts DC input to ballast board and lamp didn't light had to be ballast but proved me wrong. And I mean it don't even flicker, nothing, nada. So Either I got bad ballast which I doubt but stranger things have happened or there is some logic that I assume has to come in those 4 wires that is the only other connector on that board. In summary...1. Are prices they're offering good deal and the way to go or let them fix for free. 2. Can anyone shed some light (no punn intended on theory of operation on lamp circuit)

Add one more to the list that have successfully fixed a broken 62525 with the BGLOD. And all thanks to this thread :)

I ended up getting my 62525 for free from a co-worker who was just done with dealing with it after it wouldn't turn on after a power outage. So the next day I went and picked up the TV. Then after spending a couple of days reading through this WHOLE thread a while back, I found "t-bully's" write up and decided to give it a go.

So I ordered up an ESR meter ($100 or so for the kit to build it), and then set out on finding out what caps were actually bad in TV. After testing EVERY cap on the PWB, FMT, and DM boards, I found out that there are about 130 bad caps between these 3 boards! Wholy cow, that's a LOT of bad caps! So off to digikey I went, and ordered about 180 caps total to fix up this TV. Ended up costing about $130 shipped for all the caps.

So after getting the caps, and finally finding a good weekend that I could devote to fixing this thing, I went to town. 12 hours later, I had replaced about 90% of the caps that I thought needed to be replaced. I ended up not doing some of the caps, because the caps I ordered ended up being just a little bit to big to fit with any hassles, so I bypassed them. I noted them down, and if the TV gives me anymore crap, they will be the first to get replaced.

Then it was time to put the whole jig saw puzzle back together. But after it was back together, I turned it on, and 45 seconds later I was looking at the nice bright blue screen, and the TV was on and working! WHOOHOO!

But this was NOT an easy task at all. Not at all. I have lots of soldering experience (I do repair work on car stereo amps, and some modding of my Transmission Control Unit in my car), and some experience removing SMD (SMT) devices, and I still had some trouble doing this. I took up three solder pads, and WHAT A BITCH to fix. Not fun at all. This was a LOT of work, and I honestly didn't know if I was going to be able to fix it. So if you are contemplating this, be very wary. There is a reason it cost $500 to fix these boards up.

What really help me was t-bully's ppt presentation that he made, and his write up. Here's a link to the previous post :

(Well I was going to post a link to the post but can't, so it's post #5936)

And I also had help from "hocuspocus", as he had some more details on what he did. (Again, was going to post a link but can't. It's post #7010)

I basically did the same as these guys to get my TV to work. Thanks guys for all your help! If it wasn't for them, I might not have gotten my TV to work.

Hopefully that helps some people out!

Oh, and if anyone living in the Olympia Washington (even Seattle) area and want's to get rid of their broken TV, LMK. I might be interested in taking it off your hands...

Wow! I can't believe all these success stories with Mitsubishi customer service! My 62525 is starting to show the random white pixels after 7 years of ownership (on my third bulb now). Even as an electrical engineer, I'm way too lazy to open that thing up to inspect and replace some caps, assuming they are causing the problem (cleaning the mirror is enough of a pain). I'm going to see if I still have all my receipts, and will try calling them next week. Fingers crossed...

I haven't seen 'random white pixels' blamed on the cap failures that this chassis is known for. If they are permanent, and the number of defective pixels is growing, you may simply have a failing DMD chip. I don't recall seeing Mits covering this defect for this series of tv's. The good news is that this may be a pretty cheap DIY repair, but I haven't seen anyone do a DMD swap.

I haven't seen 'random white pixels' blamed on the cap failures that this chassis is known for. If they are permanent, and the number of defective pixels is growing, you may simply have a failing DMD chip. I don't recall seeing Mits covering this defect for this series of tv's. The good news is that this may be a pretty cheap DIY repair, but I haven't seen anyone do a DMD swap.

They flash on apparently random pixels on the screen, very quickly, like "snow" or "noise". So it does not appear to be systematic or specific pixels. But if Mitsu would repair my TV or replace it for a discounted price, I'm all for it.

You have a good chance, as I'm sure by now most repair shops will simply diagnose it as needing a chassis rebuild. If they were 'stuck' in that position, not sure what they'd say.

I'm gonna have to check the AVS forum for the new Mitsu DLP's and see if they are worth the upgrade. Since I got this TV, I stopped following the latest trends :p

I just got off the phone with Mitsubishi. I told them of my speckled white pixel problem, and they had me to the usual crap: system reset, unplug. Of course that didn't fix it. So they gave me a couple numbers for local techs. I asked them about the class action lawsuit, and they told me that the lawsuit was for a power issue with a flashing light on the screen, not my pixel issue. They then directed me to this web site for the class action lawsuit for extended warranty: http://settlement.mdea.com.

So...am I totally screwed here?

Here's what the site says:
V26 or V30 chassis
If you own or have owned any of the models listed under the V26 or V30 chassis, from Table 1, and have experienced a failure related to the performance of the original capacitors between April 1, 2011 and September 30, 2011, the symptom you may have experienced is a continuously blinking green LED light on the front of the television, you have two options for your benefits:
Option 1: You can receive a repair of your television with no charge for parts and labor.
Option 2: You have the opportunity to purchase a 2011 Mitsubishi DLP television at the dealer cost. Mitsubishi will ship the new television to you and will take your previous Mitsubishi television away, as required by the settlement.

Screw it, I filed anyway. We'll see what happens.

I just got off the phone with Mitsubishi. I told them of my speckled white pixel problem, and they had me to the usual crap: system reset, unplug. Of course that didn't fix it. So they gave me a couple numbers for local techs. I asked them about the class action lawsuit, and they told me that the lawsuit was for a power issue with a flashing light on the screen, not my pixel issue. They then directed me to this web site for the class action lawsuit for extended warranty: http://settlement.mdea.com.

So...am I totally screwed here?

Here's what the site says:
V26 or V30 chassis
If you own or have owned any of the models listed under the V26 or V30 chassis, from Table 1, and have experienced a failure related to the performance of the original capacitors between April 1, 2011 and September 30, 2011, the symptom you may have experienced is a continuously blinking green LED light on the front of the television, you have two options for your benefits:
Option 1: You can receive a repair of your television with no charge for parts and labor.
Option 2: You have the opportunity to purchase a 2011 Mitsubishi DLP television at the dealer cost. Mitsubishi will ship the new television to you and will take your previous Mitsubishi television away, as required by the settlement.

That's a different issue. Mits has been repairing the white dot problem, however. Ask to be speak with someone in Irvine, CA. Don't give up, look at this post:

(emphasis by me)Well in the interest of this thread I will provide an update on my white dot issue.

Mits called yesterday to inform me that the local tech had received the light engine Mits sent a few days ago (excellent communication). The Mits guy said the tech company would be out between 8-noon today.

The tech showed up at 10am and took all of 20 minutes to install the new light engine. All I had to do was sign and smile.

The 65833 looks great tonight and I am more than pleased with the Mits response and resolution to a problem on a 4 year old out of warranty DLP.

Thanks guys for the guidance.

And there are more examples in that thread.

Wow, thanks for showing me that thread! I'll see if my claim pans out on a new discounted TV. If not, I'll try calling the number they discuss in that thread.

Wow, thanks for showing me that thread! I'll see if my claim pans out on a new discounted TV. If not, I'll try calling the number they discuss in that thread.

You're welcome:)

Mitsubishi just called and told me the 62525 does not have the DMD chip with the "white dot" problem.

They said I need to have a technician come out first for a diagnostic (about $100). The tech will then send the info to Mitsubishi, and they said they will see what they can do for me. They said most likely they will have to replace the optical engine, and they can "corroborate".

more to come...

Just an update...

Paid $95 for a tech to look at it. He saws the speckles on my screen and concluded it wasn't the Light Engine or the DMD, but interference. He went a couple other inputs and he saw wavy lines (I *only* use Monitor Link with HDMI, no other inputs), which supported his theory. He said the chassis needs replaced, probably due to the cap issue. They sent the diagnostic to Mitsubishi, and Mitsu will cover the chassis cost, and I'll cover the $250 labor.

I suppose I could try to push the class action suit, and try to get them to cover all labor and whatnot, but I'm burnt out. So hopefully my TV will be fixed in a week...

Will send update (hopefully a final one) when it is all over with.

Well. After all of my efforts, my set died again (GBLOD) about a month ago. I knew the issue was the remaining SMD caps that we didn't replace because with enough resets it would usually come back but I really didn't feel like going back in there and replacing another 75-100 caps.

I called up Mits to explain my situation. They made me go through the song and dance of having a certified repair shop come out and give an estimate. The shop agreed with me that the best course of action was a complete rebuild.

Mits offered to cover the parts (as heard many times on here) as long as I covered labor (285.00). It was well worth it to me to pay ~300 than spend the time doing the work myself so off it went.

I just got it back yesterday and after making a few adjustments in the service menu and it now looks as good as new. (tilt is off a little but I don't feel like opening up the set to move the LE)

If anyone is in the SE Michigan area looking for a great shop (super fast and professional), send me a PM.

And I must say, "hats off to Mits" for taking care of a product so far out of warranty. I've said my share of negative things about Mits but it was nice to see them take care of this (and with only a few day turn around to boot!)

Bad news: I almost had my wife talked in to the new Panny V10 65" !!! I'm happy to save the money though.

Good luck everyone.

My set is still running. I can't believe the plaintiff attorney's in the class-action never called me. But I'm sure glad they didn't! LOL! A few of you have PM'd me over time and many were missed. I'm very sorry about that. I just stopped checking this forum on a regular basis. Twin 6-week premature daughters that are now 4.5 years-old and healthy (shew) and a working television meant that I spent less and less time here.

I'm really happy to see that many people have used my PPT to fix their sets. There are even repair shops using it! (shesh - it wasn't THAT good!) Of course, the folks profiting from this never sent a donation but I ignore that because of all of the "regular Joe's" like myself that got their site working with that file.

It's funny, I've stumbled across that file on several forums (not AVS) and websites. Read that as: Be careful what you put on the internet. It really does live forever!

Cheers everyone! I hope this lawsuit helps everyone that needs / deserves it.

Alright, we are done! Mitsubishi sent out a new chassis and it arrived within a couple days of Video Tech sending the estimate to them. Video Tech installed the new chassis and it was malfunctioning :(. They sent another estimate to Mitsu, and told me it would be at least a week. I called Mitsu to ask them to expedite the approval and order; AND THEY HAPPILY OBLIGED! I was shocked! The new chassis arrived in two days and it is now installed. I can't believe how amazing the picture looks; so the old chassis must have impacted overall picture quality too. To celebrate, I bought myself a new receiver (Onkyo NR609) to go with it :).

Hopefully this will last me a couple more years. I think with the level of customer service Mitsu provided, I may have to stick with their DLP's for my next one.

Cheers!!!! :D

I have the famous 52725. I am having problems with the TV sound. I can't get the TV speakers to work. I have tried everything in the "book" to get them on, but no luck. They used to come on every time I selected "Antenna-1". I have a Denon reciever hooked up to the set via HDMI for video only. Audio comes from Dish 722 via Optical Audio cable.
When I switch to " Antenna-1 " I have no audio from the TV speakers as I said.
What can I do?
Any responses will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Lyle