Mitsubishi WD XX725 owners thread [Text View] - Page 4

neoikon

10-15-04, 05:30 PM

Originally posted by GizmoSprocket
neoikon-

I am using an official MS branded kit.

That said, I have heard of issues getting things to work right with non-MS kits. Like getting to set non NTSC modes like 480p, 720p or 1080i may not work with some third party HD kits.

THat said, I have heard good things about the Monster kit, but it's expensive- especially if you want dolby digital- you then have to shell out some more bucks for the stupid digital sound coupler- on top of the HD cable kit.

I also confess my first hand experience is with microsoft's HD kits and I have not had too many problems.

An interesting aside:

My brother-in-law has an inexpensive surround system that only has coax-digital inputs. I found this info that may be very useful in adding SPDIF (coax) to the MS AV packs:

http://wrongcrowd.com/xboxspdif/

I will try to mod one of the HD packs this weekend for him- I will let you know how it goes.

Thanks for the info! Yes, my first choice was an MS branded kit, but I just couldn't find one, even online, so I went with a crappy third party. Good to hear people have had problems with the third party ones, which could explain my troubles (rules out problems with the TV). If I can't find a MS one I'll have to bite the bullet and get a Monster one.

Ha, that's in interesting link. I hadn't heard about that mod. I've done a few myself, such as making a HD light, allowing reset via a button on the controller, etc. I have an optical cable and optical input on my receiver, so I don't need to do this mod. Good to know you can, though!

UMD_Terp

10-15-04, 05:38 PM

interesting.. I just did a search for the Microsoft Xbox HD pack and the results were very scarce... I guess I just got lucky. I went to my local Gamestop back in August and picked one up for $20... :)

SanDiegoLaz

10-15-04, 06:13 PM

Originally posted by 2left
Had an Adelphia CableCard install scheduled for Columbus Day morning. Falling for the old "we'll be there in a half hour" routine, I ended up waiting from 8:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. before finally being told they wouldn't be able to make it until Tuesday. Two installers showed up Tuesday at 5 p.m., and a mere 2 -1/2 hours later the CableCard was working.

Don't know if it's my imagination, but the channel changing seems to have gotten a tad slower. Also noticed that the parallel vertical bars on the side of ESPN-HD are zig-zagged in several places. Adelphia measured my signal as low, and is supposed to come out to boost the signal from the outside line today - we'll see if it improves. One hassle, the tv now tunes to all 200+ digital channels, even though about 100 are premium channels and do not display any signal. I guess I'll have to manually check the channels for signal and delete them.

Off topic, but it's funny - nowhere on AdelphiaSoCal's vast website is the word "CableCard" used. In fact, their SoCal HD page states:

"What, specifically, will I need to view HDTV with Adelphia? In order to view HDTV in true high-definition, you will need . . . a special set-top receiver from Adelphia, which will replace your current set-top receiver . . . a subscription to HDTV from Adelphia"

When I called for the CableCard, I was asked how I found out about it. In addition to the usual barrage of how CableCard is inferior to the box, at least 3 different people at different times tried to tell me I had to subscribe to one of their $20+ digital packages in order to get the card and HD reception. I feel really sorry for the uninformed cable customers.

SanDiegoLaz

10-15-04, 06:15 PM

I am an Adelphia customer as well. So what you are saying is that all I need is to pay monthly rental of the cablecard and no additional fees for HD service?

2left

10-15-04, 06:47 PM

Originally posted by SanDiegoLaz
I am an Adelphia customer as well. So what you are saying is that all I need is to pay monthly rental of the cablecard and no additional fees for HD service?

Yes - you actually don't even need the card, at least in California (I'm not sure if it's federal law that requires cable companies to send unscrambled network HD signals). Since the Mits has a digital cable and HD tuner built in, I was able to get all network HD with the cable plugged straight in to the tv without a card. You will not be able to get any digital, including HD, channels that are scrambled.

I got the card installed because (1) the HD channels were on hard-to-navigate sub channels like 110-3, and (2) I occassionally order pay per view. The card acts like a controller that utilizes your tuner instead of an external tuner in a box. The card communicates with the cable company to let them know which scrambled channels to send through, and to assign their stations to specific channels on your tuner. So with the card, the HD channels are the same as if using the box - i.e., 902 = CBS, 904 = NBC, etc.

Jim Christian

10-15-04, 06:53 PM

Many use Avia and others like Digital Video Essentials (my favorite). Both can be bought at a discount at www.ebaystores.com/hdtvsupply

DGoody

10-15-04, 08:20 PM

Originally posted by 2left
Yes - you actually don't even need the card, at least in California (I'm not sure if it's federal law that requires cable companies to send unscrambled network HD signals). Since the Mits has a digital cable and HD tuner built in, I was able to get all network HD with the cable plugged straight in to the tv without a card. You will not be able to get any digital, including HD, channels that are scrambled.

I got the card installed because (1) the HD channels were on hard-to-navigate sub channels like 110-3, and (2) I occassionally order pay per view. The card acts like a controller that utilizes your tuner instead of an external tuner in a box. The card communicates with the cable company to let them know which scrambled channels to send through, and to assign their stations to specific channels on your tuner. So with the card, the HD channels are the same as if using the box - i.e., 902 = CBS, 904 = NBC, etc.

I have a CableCard with Adelphia SoCal. Are you sure you can get HD channels without a card? I'm not arguing, that wouldn't surprise me. I got the same run around about CableCard being inferior and that you needed the box to get HD. You have to get forwarded to their CableCard department to get any good info and even that's spotty. Apparently, due to all of the complaints, they won't even forward your calls to the CableCard people any more unless you're ordering new service and will insist on a tech visit for even simple problems.

It took 4 visits to find a tech who could figure out how to install the CC on my Mits. And a day later I lost ESPN HD and HBO HD and the rest of my premium channels. 3 weeks later they still haven't figured it out. I have a tech coming by today to try and fix it. I only got the premium channels because they offered them to me free for 3 months because of all of the problems I had on my install...

For what it's worth, with one exception, the people at customer service have been accomodating and have tried to help. They're really just not quite up to speed with CC's. What finally worked in my house for my initial install was installing the card with power on the TV instead of what the manual said.

Benji

10-15-04, 08:23 PM

The Mits displays are cable ready for analog or digital. They will decode any unscrambled digital channel your cable system sends out without a card or box.

anthonyinmiami

10-15-04, 09:04 PM

Received my 62725 today - WOW - what a monster and what a picture! They finally reached South Florida!

2left

10-16-04, 01:51 AM

Originally posted by DGoody
I have a CableCard with Adelphia SoCal. Are you sure you can get HD channels without a card? I'm not arguing, that wouldn't surprise me. I got the same run around about CableCard being inferior and that you needed the box to get HD. You have to get forwarded to their CableCard department to get any good info and even that's spotty. Apparently, due to all of the complaints, they won't even forward your calls to the CableCard people any more unless you're ordering new service and will insist on a tech visit for even simple problems.

It took 4 visits to find a tech who could figure out how to install the CC on my Mits. And a day later I lost ESPN HD and HBO HD and the rest of my premium channels. 3 weeks later they still haven't figured it out. I have a tech coming by today to try and fix it. I only got the premium channels because they offered them to me free for 3 months because of all of the problems I had on my install...

For what it's worth, with one exception, the people at customer service have been accomodating and have tried to help. They're really just not quite up to speed with CC's. What finally worked in my house for my initial install was installing the card with power on the TV instead of what the manual said.

Luckily, there was one CableCard division rep that knew her stuff, and she told me that Adelphia does not scramble its HD channels and does not require a digital subscription to rent a Card. When I called back to actually set up my appointment, another rep again tried to tell me I needed to purchase additional digital services if I wanted them to install a Card. It was funny - I just said "No, I don't," and she just said "okay" and set up my appointment!

The HD channels can be tricky to find without a box or card. I think they are all on sub-channels, like 110-3. When you scan, you need to have the "prefer digital" box checked. Otherwise, the tuner will scan channels 110-1, 110-2 and 110-3, if they are all there. I noticed when I channel surfed without "prefer digital" checked, I would only lock on to the first sub-channel (e.g., 110-1), then the next channel would be 111.

I guess I should count myself as lucky that although I waited 9 hours one day without anyone showing up, then the next day having 2 people spend 2-1/2 hours on it, I haven't lost any channels . . . yet. Luckily, those 2 guys had installed a CableCard in a Mits before, and had the patience to keep powering it on and off and doing other things. I wonder if it was your tv they learned on . . . :)

JBran24

10-16-04, 10:32 AM

Well, I received my 62725 this week. I had problems with my 62525 and upgraded this time. I must say the glare is greatly reduced on this set, but not eliminated. One other thing. I kind of like the black speaker grill on the bottom. I think it makes the picture stand out a little more. Just my opinion. Dollar for dollar, this is the best DLP set on the market. At least for now....

MechMan

10-16-04, 10:55 AM

Received my WD-62725 this past week here in Michigan. It's awesome! Had a slight tilt issue that I fixed last night using the info from these forums (keystone and rotation adjustments) ... Thanks to everyone who provided info on the tilt issue in Mits tilt thread!

I've got a DirecTV HD DVR HR10-250 with TIVO hooked up to the WD-62725 using a HDMI to HDMI cable that came with the Tivo unit. The TV decodes PCM stereo audio just fine and plays the audio throught the TV speakers. But when watching an OTA channel or a DirecTV channel with 5.1 digial audio, the TV is not playing any audio through the TV speakers. I don't want to change the audio output format on the TIVO to stereo because the setting will affect the optical digital output going from TIVO to my audio receiver.

Can anyone else with a DirecTV HD TIVO confirm this is the same on their setup? The manual does say that HDMI is all that is needed for video/audio but doesn't say anything about the digital audio formats supported.

rpr

10-16-04, 11:53 AM

Got he new 52725 on Wednesday, wife needed to supervise the setup as I was on travel andf just returned.

I'm still waiting for the DirecTV?TIVO install to be done on Tuesday, so I just have a digitial cable feed and an OTA antenna.

I'm sure this is a very stupid question, but how do I switch from the cable feed (setup by installer on ANT-1) to the OTA antenna which is plugged into into ANT-2. None of the menus see the ANT-2 connection.

dwarren2

10-16-04, 11:59 AM

Originally posted by rpr

I'm sure this is a very stupid question, but how do I switch from the cable feed (setup by installer on ANT-1) to the OTA antenna which is plugged into into ANT-2. None of the menus see the ANT-2 connection.

Device button on remote, Move it to Ant-2 and press enter.

rpr

10-16-04, 12:05 PM

Originally posted by dwarren2
Device button on remote, Move it to Ant-2 and press enter.

That's what I thought, but there is no Ant-2 showing up under Devices. It just doesn't seem to be recognized. Do I need to run through some type of initialization process to get the OTA recognized under Devices???

dwarren2

10-16-04, 12:09 PM

Originally posted by rpr
That's what I thought, but there is no Ant-2 showing up under Devices. It just doesn't seem to be recognized. Do I need to run through some type of initialization process to get the OTA recognized under Devices???

I haven't set up Netcommander, so that maybe why I still have that on the menu. You may have to go back into Netcommander to set it up.

PAULJK

10-16-04, 04:55 PM

And I have noticed a few things:

1. I checked the centering and found it off, so I followed the directions found in this thread and they worked great. I did, however, notice that even after I tightened down the 2 lock screws I could still make adjustments with the top adjuster. It doesn't appear that it is really locked. Maybe this is why so many of the sets are out of adjustment when we get them.

2. My set seems to turn itself off if it doesn't have an input for 10 minutes or so. I was working on the antenna today and when I would leave it disconnected for a while the set would turn itself off. It's fine while it has a signal. Anyone else seen this? I doubt that it's the power - I have it on an APC UPS.

3. I have my OTA antenna running into both ANT1 and ANT2. I thought I would try to use ANT2 just for analog channels thinking I could do a PIP using ANT2 and that would give me a quick way to filp through the OTA analog channels to see what was on. The problem is that when ANT1 is the primary source, and you select the PIP device, ANT2 is greyed out. Anyone else notice this? I finally just decided to use my VCR in the PIP device to do the surfing.

4. I get plenty of OTA digital channels with my roof antenna, but the only one I can't get digital is UPN. I tried an external antenna amplifier, but it actually seemed to make things worse. I may have to try a separate larger UHF only antenna just for that station.

5. I found it helpful to have my old tube TV running next to the Mits while I adjusted my settings. In doing this I was able to notice things in the shadows in the picture on the tube that I couldn't see on the Mits because of the way it was adjusted. I was then able to adjust the Mits accordingly.

Last but not least, I have noticed a lot of variation in the HD pictures from the OTA signal from program to program, but the ones I was watching last night were incredible. I am seeing some rainbows, but not really enough to bother me. I suspect I'll just get used to it.

All in all I'm very happy with the set.

IFLYSWA

10-16-04, 06:00 PM

Hi,
I am watching the NLCS on Fox OTA on my 62725 now, in Dolby, and ever so often I am hearing a sound, sort of like a little zapping sound - but not all that sharp, and the picture sort of freaks out. The score line at the top appears briefly toward the bottom, the pic is just kind of mixed up, then it straightens up. It has probably happened 20 times or more, so far. Is this signal related, or am I seeing the beginning of a problem? Is anybody else seeing this kind of behavior? I am in the DFW area. I'll also post this in the Local OTA thread in that area to see if others around here are seeing it...

Thanks!
Randy

hyperdoc

10-16-04, 06:06 PM

IFLYSWA - Same thing happening here. In Plano so DFW area also.

Zues

10-16-04, 06:14 PM

Can you guys notice a "green glow" around the pitchers head and the baseball when there pitching?

OhRjCa

10-16-04, 06:23 PM

Hello all, I just had a cable card installed on my 62725. It works great except that the DMX music channels do no come in. Has anyone else with a cable card experienced this or do your channels come in? Thanks.

IFLYSWA

10-16-04, 06:51 PM

Originally posted by hyperdoc
IFLYSWA - Same thing happening here. In Plano so DFW area also.

Thanks for the reply, hyperdoc. Hopefully that's enough to indicate it is Fox 4's transmission.

Randy

Ckuch9

10-16-04, 07:04 PM

Originally posted by DGoody
cjut01,

From what I've heard, BB probably isn't going to carry the xx725 or xx825 in their normal stores. They will carry it in their "Magnolia" stores which is essentially their high-end brand store for the BB label.

How would one go about finding out if they have one of these Magnolia stores in their area? I did a search of best buy stores in my area and it said nothing about Magnolia.

I live in Michigan and high end audio stores are limited. (Sears, CC, Best Buy, ABC warehouse)

ABC warehouse said they were going to get the 725 in 2-4 weeks.

htwaits

10-16-04, 07:58 PM

Magnolia Audio - Video started in Seattle. It was a family chain before BB bought it. I know they have their own stores in Washington, Oregon, and California. Their management is supposed to be independent of BB. The combo plan seems to be a new variation.

Here is their web site.

Magnolia Audio - Video (http://www.magnoliahifi.com/)

I wonder it the Magnolia stores located in BB facilities have their own walls to block out all that noise. :rolleyes:

rpr

10-16-04, 08:09 PM

Originally posted by dwarren2
I haven't set up Netcommander, so that maybe why I still have that on the menu. You may have to go back into Netcommander to set it up.

Thanks...got it working now...had to set it up in Netcommander.

Just watched my first HD programming through the OTA antenna (Auburn football game on CBS. UNBELIEVABLE! Felt like I could reach in and grab the ball.

One question (surely there will also be others). While my main fan seems to shut off after turning the TV off after 5 minutes or so (on left side of set), something is running continuously on the right side of the set. Anyone else notice this and is this normal? Why would something need to run 24x7???

cjut01

10-16-04, 08:56 PM

Originally posted by hyperdoc
IFLYSWA - Same thing happening here. In Plano so DFW area also.
Was happening to me on Long Island as well (have the 62725). I figured it's the source. There seems to be something going on tonite with BB also once in a while when they put up a graphic at the bottom - the picture jumps a little. I'm not concerned, I attribute it to their end.

IFLYSWA

10-16-04, 09:11 PM

Originally posted by cjut01
Was happening to me on Long Island as well (have the 62725). I figured it's the source. There seems to be something going on tonite with BB also once in a while when they put up a graphic at the bottom - the picture jumps a little. I'm not concerned, I attribute it to their end.

That's encouraging. I'd really like to hear that someone with a totally different set experienced it, just to put my mind totally at ease, but I am feeling much better already....thanks for the reply!

Randy

salrmrcrey

10-16-04, 09:16 PM

I just left the BB/magnolia store that had an anniversary sale this weekend. The magnolia store just opened up about a week and a half ago inside the BB. Awesome products, and prices. Everything was on sale and was cheaper than GG. The 52725 and 62575 was 10% below the suggested price. Plus, if you wanted to bargin, they would take another 10% off the sale price if you asked.

s-cbr

10-17-04, 02:37 AM

Can someone please lend your expertise to clear up the HDMI digital/analog issue with this unit?

I am going to Magnolia tomorrow possibly to buy this unit.

However, there is one potential stumbling block for me: Some have suggested here, without any coherent explanation, that the MITS HDMI connection actually coverts to analog then back to digital.

That makes absolutely no sense to me. Why in the world would it do that? Wouldn't that defeat the whole purpose of having an HDMI connection, and therefore never having to leave the digital realm??

umr

10-17-04, 08:02 AM

Originally posted by s-cbr
....However, there is one potential stumbling block for me: Some have suggested here, without any coherent explanation, that the MITS HDMI connection actually coverts to analog then back to digital.

That makes absolutely no sense to me. Why in the world would it do that? Wouldn't that defeat the whole purpose of having an HDMI connection, and therefore never having to leave the digital realm??

It does convert to analog. Take a look at the circuit diagrams from the Service Manual that have been posted on the forum.

The primary purpose of HDMI is to simplify the connections. Most people are clueless about any concerns over pure digital route. Most TV's today do not maintain the digital path with these connections. Buy Samsung if that is the deciding factor. I would focus on actual PQ if it was me.

The sense to it is that the designers need to do much less work when they convert the signal to analog than the other way around. It is probably cheaper to do this as well. The loss is PQ is very minimal if the display has reasonable electronics. It may even improve the PQ depending on how the digital path would manipulate the signal.

PAULJK

10-17-04, 08:36 AM

Originally posted by PAULJK
And I have noticed a few things:

2. My set seems to turn itself off if it doesn't have an input for 10 minutes or so. I was working on the antenna today and when I would leave it disconnected for a while the set would turn itself off. It's fine while it has a signal.

I found out that this is normal operation. I watched the set, tuned to a digital channel, with no signal. After around 4 minutes it displays a message that says there is no signal and the TV will turn off in 1 minute. I haven't checked to see if it does this with other inputs, but I would assume it does.

s-cbr

10-17-04, 10:25 AM

Most TV's today do not maintain the digital path with these connections. Buy Samsung if that is the deciding factor. I would focus on actual PQ if it was me.

Thanks umr. Obviously, the image is the key, and to these old eyes, the Mitsubishi has it hands down. In fact, this set rivals my Elite Pro-1110HD. However, I have not seen the Mits with an HDMI connection. I know that with a DVD Player (Elite 59avi) hooked up through HDMI in my Elite set, the image improves fairly significantly over component, and it seems to be doing this not because of the supposed "upconversion," but the HDMI connection itself. I had assumed this is the case because it stayed in the digital realm. That's what my salesman told me, and he wouldn't lie to me would he? :rolleyes:

With your quote above, I'm not sure if even the Elite is pure digital. Anyone know? [If the Elite, which to me is the best picture out there right now, is not pure digital, not too sure I'm concerned about staying in the digital realm.]

htwaits

10-17-04, 12:36 PM

Originally posted by s-cbr
That makes absolutely no sense to me. Why in the world would it do that? Wouldn't that defeat the whole purpose of having an HDMI connection, and therefore never having to leave the digital realm??
Mitsubishi's CRT-RPTV sets must do the same conversion since they need an analog signal in order to display images. All Mitsubishi has to do then is reconvert the signal to digital for display on their DLP sets.

Doing it this way allows Mitsubishi to use their existing analog scaling circuits for one thing. There may be other savings as well.

If Mitsubishi has good analog technology and hasn't developed good digital technology then it's a win/win for them.

So far no one has reported being able to connect a HTPC to the Mitsubishi HDMI port and get 1x1 bit mapping at 1280x720. I don't know if the "double analog" conversion is causing a problem for digital HTPC connections.

That "might" be another reason to look at the Samsung sets since Samsung seems to have made DVI/HDMI HTPC connections one of their priorities.

I'm on the verge of giving up some PQ (HLP5063) for good HTPC performance and a screen that isn't highly reflective. I'm one of those who was disappointed that Samsung pulled their new light engine out of the perpetually forth coming HLP5674.

When I took my wife to see the "725" Mits she wanted to know why I would want a TV with such a reflective screen. She could watch the TV sets behind us in the reflections. :rolleyes: My "guy" responses didn't make much of an impression on her, but I still dither about better PQ. :(

umr

10-17-04, 01:08 PM

Originally posted by s-cbr
Thanks umr. Obviously, the image is the key, and to these old eyes, the Mitsubishi has it hands down. In fact, this set rivals my Elite Pro-1110HD. However, I have not seen the Mits with an HDMI connection. I know that with a DVD Player (Elite 59avi) hooked up through HDMI in my Elite set, the image improves fairly significantly over component, and it seems to be doing this not because of the supposed "upconversion," but the HDMI connection itself. I had assumed this is the case because it stayed in the digital realm. That's what my salesman told me, and he wouldn't lie to me would he? :rolleyes:

With your quote above, I'm not sure if even the Elite is pure digital. Anyone know? [If the Elite, which to me is the best picture out there right now, is not pure digital, not too sure I'm concerned about staying in the digital realm.]

I don't know of any CRT's that are pure digital. They are all driven analog. You should get a copy of the latest WideScreen Review. There is a great article that discusses the pluses and minuses of digital vs. analog. He makes some great arguments against digital actually. I have only had a chance to skim it this morning. It is part of a series of articles that started two issues before. They are great reading if you want to understand the issues with PQ. Neither analog or digital is a panacia.

The benefits of upconversion external to the TV are more dependent on the display than the player output. You are likely bypassing some filtering in the Pioneer TV the digital input. I have written about these things in other threads. Do a search on my user name with the key word Nyquist for more details on the subject.

s-cbr

10-17-04, 01:14 PM

That "might" be another reason to look at the Samsung sets since Samsung seems to have made DVI/HDMI HTPC connections one of their priorities.

Samsung is what got me interested in a second HD set to begin with. DLP looked good, and didn't cost what another plasma would cost.

However, when I went in to possibly buy one, I noticed the Mits, and immediately thought the picture was superior, and in fact rivaled the top-end plasmas. However, the comparison was with an HD satellite signal, I'm sure hooked up through component.

I'll see if we can do an HDMI comparison today with a Denon or Samsung DVD unit, and that may help me make my decision.

Then it would just be down to the following two things:

1. Only one HDMI connection
2. Compatibility of this set with HD hard drive recorders and HD-DVDs, given the conversions etc.

The glare is not a big issue for us, since it will be (initially) in a den with little outside lighting and no direct incandescent lighting in front of it. Rather have better image, knowing that I can control the lighting.

htwaits

10-17-04, 01:26 PM

Originally posted by s-cbr
I'll see if we can do an HDMI comparison today with a Denon or Samsung DVD unit, and that may help me make my decision.
Get a Denon demo if possible. The current Samsung up-scaling DVD players are supposed to crush both whites and blacks.

umr

10-17-04, 01:44 PM

Originally posted by htwaits
Get a Denon demo if possible. The current Samsung up-scaling DVD players are supposed to crush both whites and blacks.

The Samsungs also map the colors in such a way the 720p will look wrong. The NTSC colors are not mapped into the HD color matrix resulting in a green image if your TV cannot be manually switched to the NTSC color matrix while viewing HD resolution. I would avoid any scaling player that does not convert its output to the HD color matrix when outputting 720p or 1080i. I personally avoid Samsung video products as a general rule because they frequently get the little things that can make a big difference wrong.

NetGod

10-17-04, 04:05 PM

Just took delivery of my 62725 Thursday October 14th. Paid full price + 3 warrenty at Tweeter, but they did come and deliver/install for free.

Set is awesome. Have experienced no problems.

Hometheater Equipment Outline

1 Monster HTS 3500 MKII

1 Pioneer HD Cable box from Time Warner

Denon 3805 (silver) Surround Sound Receiver

Aragon 2002 2 Channel Amplifier in Silver (To drive B&W’s / coming soon)

Denon 2910 DVD Player (coming soon)

Mitsubishi 62725

Custom built TV stand

1 Vienna Acoustic Rosewood Maestro Center

2 B&W 703’s in Rosenut (Main Fronts)

2 Vienna Acoustic Rosewood Waltz (sides)

4 Vienna Acoustic Rosewood Haydns (2 supporting fronts & 2 rears)

1 Velodyne DPS-12 Subwoofer (Front Subwoofer) (coming soon)

1 Boston Acoustic CR400 Subwoofer (Rear Subwoofer)

1 Monster HTS 3500 MKII

1 Pioneer CD Recorder

1 Sony 400 Disc Carousel

1 X-Box

1 Sony Playstation 2

1 Nintendo Game Cube

Summery/Review:

Typical crappy picture from standard cable. UNBELIEVABLE picture from Time Warner's HD channels! 3 dimensional effect when in HD!
Have been pleased/suprised with DVD performance, even coming from just an X-Box!
No unusual picture issues.
62725 is f**k*n HUGE!
LOVE THIS TV!

PauldF

10-17-04, 06:49 PM

YEEEHAAAA . . . I'm on my way!!!

Went down to BB here in Thousand Oaks, Ca today and bought the 62727 and the Denon 3910. I will be having both delivered to my house next Wed 10/27. So, here's the system - all bought within the last month and mostly still in boxes:

Harmon Kardon Citation 16 amp (for mains)
Denon 3805 AVR
Denon 3910 Universal Player
Paradigm Studio 100 Mains
Paradigm Studio CC 570 Center
Paradigm Studio ADP 470 Surrounds
Paradigm Mini Monitor Rears
Hsu VTF3 MK2 Subwoofer
Basic POS Adelphia cable box/service
New BlueJeans cables
Shielded Monster 12G in-wall speaker wire

Now I need to make a temporary stand for the 725. I think I saw this before, but could someone please post the width, depth and most inportantly the height from the bottom of the TV to the middle of the screen so I can make an appropriate stand?? I will make supports from the stand up to a shelf to hold the incredibly heavy CC 570 center I think - can the 725 safely support a 45+ lb center mounted in some fashion on it???

I need to run the surround speaker wire this week, as well as move furniture around etc, before stuff gets here next week - so I'm glad I didn't try to get it here any sooner.

I humbly ask and invite any and all local and semi-local forum members that would like to visit, watch, help or just laugh to come over for beer and pizza - maybe the Sunday after Halloween. Just PM me with your details and we can have some fun!!!!

Thanks for all your help in my analysis of these products, and I will now really be getting into the arcane minutia - so beware - you've helped create a monster - albeit a very happy one just in time for Halloween!!

Paul

s-cbr

10-17-04, 08:49 PM

Get a Denon demo if possible. The current Samsung up-scaling DVD players are supposed to crush both whites and blacks.

Actually ended up using a Pioneer Elite (59avi, which is what I have at home). Watched part of Mystic River, one other and Lion King (daughter was with me :D ). Very nice.

I bought the unit. Magnolia has it right next to the Samsung, and it wasn't really a choice at all. Decided not to even compare DVD output between the two.

I'll play with this at home, but I'm pretty sure I'll keep it. For those of your struggling with the one HDMI input issue, the sales guy told me that they are waiting on an automatic HDMI switch that will fix that problem. I know Gefen already has one on the market, but I believe you have to manually swith it (or program a macro in your remote).

He also indicated that the cable companies are working on making their menus, VOD etc. work with the cable card. At least for me, that'll mean I only need one HDMI input - for the DVD.

Mac3150

10-17-04, 09:23 PM

Anyone have any thoughts as to why watching TWC HD through component looks much better than through HDMI? Thanks.

subwoofer

10-17-04, 11:07 PM

s-cbr

10-17-04, 11:31 PM

Can someone explain this to me.........I was at Tweeter today and the guy there said the cable card slot will be available when Comcast makes it available. Whats that mean? I figured that to get HDTV from Comcast, all you had to do was get their HD receiver and ta-da, thats it. Or am I wrong?

The slot is on the TV itself. What he meant was the card will be available . . . It's like a PC card, except for your TV. The card goes into the slot and de-scrambles the premium channels, including HD.

I live in the San Francisco Bay Area, and it's available here. However, if it's not available where you are, you definitely can use the box. Right now, from what I understand, the card does not give you the menu etc., but should in the future.

subwoofer

10-17-04, 11:36 PM

So having the card will eliminate your HD receiver from your cable company? Because right now I'm having trouble with HD providers, its either DirecTv or Comcast HD.

BigAl

10-18-04, 12:14 AM

The FCC required that all cable providers supply cablecards to customers upon request starting in july, so call your cable company and have them get you the card if you are interested in it.

The cablecard is one-way... i.e. you cannot do pay per view using the remote, you cannot use on-demand. You will have a channel list but not a program guide.

The 2-way cablecard specs are in the works but have not been finalized. From what I have heard the current 1-way cablecard tuners will not be upgradeable.

This applies to cable only... it does not apply to the satellite providers like DirecTV, Dish or Voom.

s-cbr

10-18-04, 01:55 AM

The 2-way cablecard specs are in the works but have not been finalized. From what I have heard the current 1-way cablecard tuners will not be upgradeable.

So BigAl, sounds like all the capability won't be in the card itself, that the tuner will need to have its own functionality to work two-way? Does this relate to program guides also, or just PPV and VOD?

BigAl

10-18-04, 09:45 AM

Originally posted by s-cbr
So BigAl, sounds like all the capability won't be in the card itself, that the tuner will need to have its own functionality to work two-way? Does this relate to program guides also, or just PPV and VOD?

That is my understanding, I don't know if the EPG is specifically tied to 2-way, I don't think it is. I would recommend checking out the AVS HDTV hardware forum and opencable.com for more info on the cablecard spec.

phillyaj

10-18-04, 09:59 AM

Just got my 62725 on Friday and a few observations and comments;

a) I upgraded from the 52725 to the 62725. I did notice the 'bright spot' that was mentioned in this thread on my 52725...but happily do not see it on my 62725. My wife also comfirms that she doesn't see it either.

b) I live in Southern NJ, and installers informed me that they have had nothing but trouble with the cablecard and comcast. They said there are 3 different models of cablecard and they all act differently. Comcast seems clueless as to why. Problems include channels just disappearing and general configuration.

c) Netcommand is nice...but a pain. DVD, VCR, Scientific Atlanta HD cable box, all set up ok, but when to set up my Integra AVR (audio only) and it was a real challange. I hooked the DVD to Digital Coax in, and Cable Box to Digital Optical in and TV hooked up to Audio 2. I got the codes in and it turns on when I switch Audio from TV to AVR but going back I would hope it would turn the AVR off. It works sometimes and not others. Also delay on Netcommand is bad. I know I will eventually get a full component switching avr so I'm just going to 'cope' for now.

Other than that...I just LOVE this Set. AWESOME PICTURE that takes your breath away!!. This is the way TV is supposed to Look. Now if we can just get more HD Widescreen content.

Picture attached....(roll-top desk is going....SOON)

Thanks
Andy

neoikon

10-18-04, 11:14 AM

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
interesting.. I just did a search for the Microsoft Xbox HD pack and the results were very scarce... I guess I just got lucky. I went to my local Gamestop back in August and picked one up for $20... :)

I went to GameCrazy, GameFellas, BB, and CC and none had the HD pack. So, I went with the Monster Xbox cables. Yup, fixed the problem! Picture looks amazing! My empty pocket doesn't look amazing, though.

Thanks to everyone for their help! I knew I shouldn't have gone with a 3rd party adaptor, but I didn't have much choice!

UMD_Terp

10-18-04, 11:25 AM

Originally posted by neoikon
I went to GameCrazy, GameFellas, BB, and CC and none had the HD pack. So, I went with the Monster Xbox cables. Yup, fixed the problem! Picture looks amazing! My empty pocket doesn't look amazing, though.

Thanks to everyone for their help! I knew I shouldn't have gone with a 3rd party adaptor, but I didn't have much choice!

glad to hear that fixed it! BTW, I would have checked ebay as well for the xbox HD pack... I think they may have had a few listings...

neoikon

10-18-04, 11:43 AM

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
glad to hear that fixed it! BTW, I would have checked ebay as well for the xbox HD pack... I think they may have had a few listings...

Ebay is where I originally bought my turd party one. I didn't (and still don't) see anyone listing the Microsoft branded one, unfortunately.

subwoofer

10-18-04, 12:17 PM

2 questions..........

Mits WD-52725 stand question:

What kind of stand do you guys have for a 52" Mits DLP? I would love to get something thin (about 20") and something about 50" wide. But I'm having alot of trouble finding a good stand

Mits speaker question:

For everyone using a 5.1 or higher setup with their Mits DLP, how close are your side speakers to the tv? I'm afraid that having my L and R speaker about 2 inches from the tv might be weird or cause problems with sound.

salrmrcrey

10-18-04, 12:29 PM

Sub-

although i don't have the 52725 yet, the stand i bought for it is the Ikea Oppli. Just the right height and width. depth is 19 5/8".
has castors. some people were unsure of the construction on the stand. it can hold up to 154 lbs max. just to make it more secure, i added four more casters and L brackets that were purchased from home depot for added support.

As long as your speakers are shielded, there should be no problems whatsoever as to how close they are to the tv. if there is some interference, just move them to the side a little bit till the problem is gone. correct me if i am wrong here gang.......

Cheers,

neoikon

10-18-04, 12:40 PM

Originally posted by subwoofer
2 questions..........

Mits WD-52725 stand question:

What kind of stand do you guys have for a 52" Mits DLP? I would love to get something thin (about 20") and something about 50" wide. But I'm having alot of trouble finding a good stand

Mits speaker question:

For everyone using a 5.1 or higher setup with their Mits DLP, how close are your side speakers to the tv? I'm afraid that having my L and R speaker about 2 inches from the tv might be weird or cause problems with sound.

I was in the same situation where I couldn't find one that had the right dimensions, looked nice, and was reasonably priced. So, I built my own.

In my opinion, you should have some good separation of the L and R speakers to really make use of the 5.1 sound. If they are both directly in front of you, then they are just acting like a center channel. Generally, to make something sound as if it's coming from the right, the speaker should be somewhere off to the right. I think mine are about 6 feet from the edge of each side of the TV. It's also very important to tune your sound as much as you tune your video. Make sure each speaker's sound level is correct depending on their distance to the listener. It makes a huge difference.

subwoofer

10-18-04, 01:20 PM

Originally posted by neoikon
I was in the same situation where I couldn't find one that had the right dimensions, looked nice, and was reasonably priced. So, I built my own.

In my opinion, you should have some good separation of the L and R speakers to really make use of the 5.1 sound. If they are both directly in front of you, then they are just acting like a center channel. Generally, to make something sound as if it's coming from the right, the speaker should be somewhere off to the right. I think mine are about 6 feet from the edge of each side of the TV. It's also very important to tune your sound as much as you tune your video. Make sure each speaker's sound level is correct depending on their distance to the listener. It makes a huge difference.

Tough call, cuase if you look at my setup now, what I would have to do is move the stand moreso to the left but still have that open space behind it due to the upper right corner of the room. That way the TV faces the wedge of the couch. But I still have to watch out for that Right speaker because I don't want it sitting in front of the door. Also, don't want to move the tv too far too the left or the person on the left side of the couch will be at a bad angle (not horrible though). Each side of the couch would be 6-7 feet away and the wedge would be 9-10 feet away if I put the Mits DLP where my tv is now. Great setup but I still need a thin stand and I can't make one cause I suck at wood-work

2left

10-18-04, 03:47 PM

Originally posted by subwoofer
Tough call, cuase if you look at my setup now, what I would have to do is move the stand moreso to the left but still have that open space behind it due to the upper right corner of the room. . .

I say change the rest of the room to fit your Mits! As configured, it seems you would have a lot of balance and tonal mismatch between the right and left sides because of the opening on the right. I think you may have addressed this before, but why can't you move the Mits to the wall on the top of your diagram? You'd have to move the couch back, I think. What is the usual number of viewers? It would create "preferred" straight on seating and less desirable side seating, but that would be okay if only 3 or 4 people usually watch. It may, however, also allow you to add a few more chairs along the right side so people don't have to sit close on the left side.

mnwilliams

10-18-04, 06:03 PM

Originally posted by salrmrcrey
As long as your speakers are shielded, there should be no problems whatsoever as to how close they are to the tv. if there is some interference, just move them to the side a little bit till the problem is gone. correct me if i am wrong here gang.......

Cheers, [/B]

The shielded speaker thing only applies to CRT televisions, and then mainly to direct view CRTs. DLPs are not influenced by magnetic fields, so speakers can go right next to them.

Having said that, a lot of LCR-type speakers are shielded these days...

scottmd1us

10-18-04, 06:14 PM

Hey all, Love this thread as my wife and I decided to become owners of the 52725....based off of seeing the 52525 at local stores....

We live in Oakland County Michigan, outside of Detroit and have not been able to find the 725 series carried anywhere, has anyone spotted them in that area?

scpanel

10-18-04, 07:32 PM

I sure think you will enjoy it, its a great set. I now have about 129 hours on mine and it has worked flawlessly.
I have been trying A-B compare between the Component and HDMI inputs. I am considering going back to component but not switching through my Krell processor as that will only give me 1 calibrated setting for my DVD and DISH.

I am finding that my contrast levels are settling in the 15-20 range and brightness in the 45-50 range, otherwise its to bright at night, and am wondering where some of the rest of you are in setting this correctly.

phillyaj

10-19-04, 07:18 AM

I have had my 62725 since Friday and I am noticing what seems to be a low audio level on the tv. I noticed it yesterday while watching HDTV (via Scientific Atlanta cable box). Hoping it was just the cable box, I swtiched to DVD and still tv levels seem low. When the volume is at mid level (30 or so), audio seems too low. (audible, but seeming way to low for mid level). Max (60 or so), doesn't seem that loud. I tried to power-off (unplug) and power back on, I also tried first thing in the morning to see if there was possibly a thermal problem that was kicking the amp down....no dice. This morning the level still seem too low. Going to call my installer today to see what they want to do...either replace set or call Mitsubishi. There was also an issue last night with Fox broadcast of ALCS. Seemed the announcers level was was to low (when using AVR center channel). Someone at work had commented on this to me earilier in the day that they had noticed the same thing on thier home system (not Mitsubishi), so it could just have been FOX or most likely Comcast.

This is really bothering me. When I first got the set, I had commented how nice the audio sounded. Full with pretty good range.

Anyone else notice anything? I will let you know outcome.

Thanks
Andy

Mojo97

10-19-04, 09:17 AM

i just posted this in the hdtv forum, too, so please forgive the cross post...
i'm getting my 52725 today and was wondering something...

I subscribe to basic Comcast cable service (i have an analog STB, which i don't even use). It's my understanding that the HD tuner in my tv should receive any unscrambled digital signals (including HD) and display them ok. Should i expect with my current service (analog) to be able to receive unscrambled digital signals? I guess, i'm assuming comcast broadcast digital and analog signals at the same time and it just depends on what STB you have (digital or analog) to tune in the appropriate channels.
Also, can i expect the network stations to be coming in as unscrambled HD?
i bought an indoor antenna to test out the OTA HD signals, but was wondering what i could expect through cable...

thx

rpr

10-19-04, 10:22 AM

Guys...need help quick. Charter is about to show up to discionnect my cable TV & internet service, with DirecTV tech to show up sometime later to connect sat service, and then Sprint later in the week to hook up DSL internet service.

Long story short, I will be without internet service for a few days, so before I lose it I want to print out the instructions for getting into the service menu to adjust geometry/overscan. However, this thread has grown so much I can't find the instructions anymore! Any help?

IFLYSWA

10-19-04, 10:32 AM

Originally posted by rpr
Guys...need help quick. Charter is about to show up to discionnect my cable TV & internet service, with DirecTV tech to show up sometime later to connect sat service, and then Sprint later in the week to hook up DSL internet service.

Long story short, I will be without internet service for a few days, so before I lose it I want to print out the instructions for getting into the service menu to adjust geometry/overscan. However, this thread has grown so much I can't find the instructions anymore! Any help?

I think Menu-2-4-5-7-Rewind is what you are looking for...hope that helps!

Randy

boristhedog

10-19-04, 11:26 AM

Sorry this is so long, but I wanted to post a copy of an e-mail I sent to Mits service in hopes that someone here might know something about my problems (especially Issue #1). Here it is....

[begin]

To: mdeaservice@mdea.com
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2004 09:30:59 -0500
Subject: WD-62725 Service problem & questions

Hello,
I have several questions regarding my WD-62725 (SN: 101775, sw v26
004.003) purchased at Ultimate Electronics in Plano, TX. Please
respond to each issue or let me know if you have any further
questions. Thanks!

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue #1 - service tech visit and "extra" screws

Yesterday, a service tech came to fix a problem I had with the screen
image being tilted/rotated such that the image was off center. He
proceeded to dismantle the entire set including removing the front and
back cover, screen, and both speakers. After some time, it appeared
the tilt problem was fixed and he re-assembled the set. Before he
left, I inspected the area and noticed there were 8 screws loose by
the TV that I had never seen before. I asked him about them and he
said that he was sure he replaced every screw he removed (about 40 he
said), and that the loose screws were wood screws so they could not be
part of the TV. I asked where the loose screws came from and he said
he didn't know or that he may have pulled them out of his bag when
getting his tools or something. I am VERY disturbed by this. I've
attached a picture of the screws. They are 3/4" black, rounded
phillips head. They do have a sharp point as if they might be wood
screws, but there's still a mystery as to where they came from. Can
you please look at the picture (extra_screws.jpg) and tell me if you
think such screws came out of this TV?

FYI: This was a service tech from an authorized Mitsubishi service
center (Har-West Sound & Video). The visit was scheduled when I called
the Mitsubishi customer service who then contacted this service
center.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue #2 - bright spot on dark screen

Another problem that prompted me to call for service is a noticeable
bright spot of light reflecting on the lower center of the screen when
viewing dark screens or it can be seen if you select a device that is
off (with video mute disabled). I know several people with this same
TV and they do not see this "spot". It seems like there's some leakage
of light or something that's not aligned correctly to produce this
"spot". The service tech said this is "normal", but like I said, it is
not visible on all sets. If it was normal, I would expect to see it on
every set. Again, I've included some pics of the "spot" (tv_spot1.jpg
& tv_spot2.jpg), please take a look and let me know if you have found
a solution for this problem yet.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue #3 - OTA digital channels scanned and added, but not displayed

When I originally did a scan for digital OTA channels, I watched
during the scanning process and saw channels "added" and "deleted" as
they were found. This worked great and I received several digital
channels and could view them fine. However, I was not getting all of
the channels I wanted so I began hanging/moving/swapping my antenna
to try to get more channels. After each ntenna change I would do a
re-scan to see if I picked up any new channels on both the 62725 tuner
AND the tuner in my HD satellite receiver (Samsung TS360). Once I felt
I had the correct antenna and alignment, a final scan on the Samsung
yielded all the channels. Then, when watching the scan on the 62725, I
could also see it add all the digital channels I expected during the
scanning process. However, this time, once the scan was complete and I
went to view a digital channel, it was not available (even thought it
was clearly added during the scan, and the same process worked several
times before). I was not able to tun to ANY digital channels, and
pressing "guide" also indicated that only analog channels were there.
This makes no sense because 1) I SAW the digital channels "added"
during the scan and 2) this used to work fine the first few times I
scanned. I tried another scan, again saw digital channels being
"added", but again when it was finished, there were no digital
channels to display. I repeated this process several times....still
nothing. I reset the TV, scanned again, saw the same channels being
"added" during the scan, but this time when the scan was finished, I
could FINALLY tune to the digital channels and they would show up in
the "guide" as I expected (and as it did originally before I started
seeing this problem).

So, it seems there is a problem doing multiple scans such that after
some number of scans, NO digital channels will be displayed (even
though they appear to be added during the scan). Once in this state, a
system reset, and a re-scan will correct the problem. This seems to be
only a temporary "work-around" (a system reset)....clearly, I should
be able to do multiple scans without having to reset the TV.

FYI: I understand there were some OTA issues with earlier software
versions, but I believe I have the latest software (V26 004.003).

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue #4 - NetCommand "learned" device, wipes out other "learned" device

Every time I go through the process of "learning" a remote for a
device (where you check each button and learn them one at a time) it
seems to replace the learned remote for another device. In other
words, it seems like only one "learned" remote can be stored in the
NetCommand system at a time. Surely this is not correct. I have tried
removing and re-adding each device in NetCommand, and re-learning each
remote. But when I finish, only the last remote I learned is stored.
Should it be possible for me to "learn" more than one remote....please
advise?

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue #5 - "flickering" of screen when changing channels

When changing channels between HD and SD channels or between HD
channels of different format (i.e. 720p -> 1080i or vice versa) the
screen will initially display the channel, then go black, the
"flicker" on and off for a second or two and then finally "settle
down" on the channel. Is this normal?

[end]

Thanks for any suggestions you might have.

cjut01

10-19-04, 12:24 PM

Craig

Those look like machine screws and absolutely they may come from the set. They are not wood screws. Maybe he had them in his bag but I suspect if you found them all in one place that's likely not the case.

Nice e-mail-- keep us posted.

CJ

UMD_Terp

10-19-04, 01:06 PM

Craig,

Those screws could have come from the TV... They look like it at least.

Can you post here pictures of your 'bright spot'? I was wondering how it compared to mine. I called Mitsubishi this morning about the case I filed with them about this bright spot and I was told that my case has been extended and is being looked at by some quality control managers. I am scheduled to recieve a call back from Mitsubishi by Thursday of this week regarding it.

2left

10-19-04, 01:22 PM

Originally posted by scpanel
. . . I am finding that my contrast levels are settling in the 15-20 range and brightness in the 45-50 range, otherwise its to bright at night, and am wondering where some of the rest of you are in setting this correctly.

I am setting both contrast and brightness in the 45 range right now because the room gets a lot of sunlight during the day, and we watch with all lights on at night. I'm still experimenting with dvd's and trying to find a good tradeoff between seeing shadow detail and getting the brightness too high. The problem I have is with watching television. These settings are a little too bright for the hd channels, but the sd channels are darker and really need the boost.

one504

10-19-04, 01:35 PM

I've got the Contrast at 32 and the Brightness at 36 (I used Avia through Component). I don't watch hardley any analog SD at night, though - just DVD and HD.

2left

10-19-04, 02:07 PM

Originally posted by Mojo97
. . . i'm getting my 52725 today and was wondering something...

I subscribe to basic Comcast cable service (i have an analog STB, which i don't even use). It's my understanding that the HD tuner in my tv should receive any unscrambled digital signals (including HD) and display them ok. Should i expect with my current service (analog) to be able to receive unscrambled digital signals? I guess, i'm assuming comcast broadcast digital and analog signals at the same time and it just depends on what STB you have (digital or analog) to tune in the appropriate channels.
Also, can i expect the network stations to be coming in as unscrambled HD?
. . .

Since you're getting your tv today, the simplest thing to do is plug the cable in, select "prefer digital," then scan for channels and see what pops up! But I know how you feel - it's hard to wait.

Mojo97

10-19-04, 02:22 PM

so, i have my tv now and have been playing with it for a couple hours. i have an antenna hookd up to ant-2 and the cable going ot ant-1. at first, i scanned channels (without prefer digital selected) on ant-1 and it zipped through, found both analog and digital channels fine. but, i had sometihng messed up so that i couldn't get ant-2 to scan. i went into netcommand and reset everything.
now, when i scan for channels, it's not picking up any of the digital channels. i've been reading other people have had this problem. but, i haven't seen anyone post a resolution or cause. anyone know what's up? it's very frustrating... :(

thx

boristhedog

10-19-04, 02:22 PM

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
Craig,

Those screws could have come from the TV... They look like it at least.

Can you post here pictures of your 'bright spot'? I was wondering how it compared to mine.

Argh.. I'm also going to call Mits to make sure they know about this (missing screws). I might also just take the front and back panel off and have a peek for myself to look for any holes w/out screws.

My "spot" pics are too big to post....can't resize right now. PM me if you want me to email them to you directly.

UMD_Terp

10-19-04, 02:27 PM

Originally posted by boristhedog

My "spot" pics are too big to post....can't resize right now. PM me if you want me to email them to you directly.

you got PM :D

dwarren2

10-19-04, 03:03 PM

one504

10-19-04, 04:54 PM

Originally posted by Mojo97
so, i have my tv now and have been playing with it for a couple hours. i have an antenna hookd up to ant-2 and the cable going ot ant-1. at first, i scanned channels (without prefer digital selected) on ant-1 and it zipped through, found both analog and digital channels fine. but, i had sometihng messed up so that i couldn't get ant-2 to scan. i went into netcommand and reset everything.
now, when i scan for channels, it's not picking up any of the digital channels. i've been reading other people have had this problem. but, i haven't seen anyone post a resolution or cause. anyone know what's up? it's very frustrating... :(

thx
Try hitting the reset button on the front of the Mits, then scan again.

phillyaj

10-19-04, 04:54 PM

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
Craig,

Those screws could have come from the TV... They look like it at least.

Can you post here pictures of your 'bright spot'? I was wondering how it compared to mine. I called Mitsubishi this morning about the case I filed with them about this bright spot and I was told that my case has been extended and is being looked at by some quality control managers. I am scheduled to recieve a call back from Mitsubishi by Thursday of this week regarding it.

For what it's worth...I too found screws simular to those pictured....actually exactly like those pictured. I just had my mitsubishi delivered on friday and noone was out to service. From what I can gather, they have to be part of the shipping or packing process. They could be part of the Mitsubishi stand as well (shipping or packing). I actually have a call into my installer so I'll ask them if they know.

Andy

boristhedog

10-19-04, 05:03 PM

Originally posted by phillyaj
For what it's worth...I too found screws simular to those pictured....actually exactly like those pictured. I just had my mitsubishi delivered on friday and noone was out to service. From what I can gather, they have to be part of the shipping or packing process. They could be part of the Mitsubishi stand as well (shipping or packing). I actually have a call into my installer so I'll ask them if they know.

Andy

Thanks Andy.
Hmmm....well, I've had my TV since 10/1, the box etc. is in a totally different room. The TV was hand carried into my living room and placed on the table (no packing scraps or anything). Of course over the past few weeks, I've been back and forth behind the TV connecting things and such and have NEVER seen those screws. Unless I'm just losing my mind...

BTW...here's the informative, helpful response to my (admittedly lengthy) e-mail:

Thank you for contacting Mitsubishi Digital Electronics America, Inc.
We are pleased to be able to assist our customers via our website.

Unfortunately, we are unable to assist you with your inquiry via the
internet. Please contact our consumer relations department at
949-830-8364 for assistance.

I'll guess I'll call them again tonight....

neoikon

10-19-04, 05:14 PM

Originally posted by boristhedog
Yesterday, a service tech came to fix a problem I had with the screen
image being tilted/rotated such that the image was off center. He
proceeded to dismantle the entire set including removing the front and
back cover, screen, and both speakers.

I'm surprised he had to take the whole darn thing apart. Perhaps it was a larger problem than just a simple tilt problem?

Instructions (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4408117#post4408117)
Diagram (http://avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?postid=4470269&fullpage=1)

Mojo97

10-19-04, 05:17 PM

Originally posted by one504
Try hitting the reset button on the front of the Mits, then scan again.

yep, that did it. found that someone else had done that in another thread with success. it worked for me, too. i'm confused as to what causes this to happen, though. seems like it's a consistent issue that people are running into.

boristhedog

10-19-04, 05:43 PM

Originally posted by neoikon
I'm surprised he had to take the whole darn thing apart. Perhaps it was a larger problem than just a simple tilt problem?

Instructions (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4408117#post4408117)
Diagram (http://avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?postid=4470269&fullpage=1)

Me too. I had read the entire "tilt" thread some time ago, so I was shocked when I saw the thing completely dismantled. That's why I'm a little skeptical about the whole thing....should have done it myself.

If I could just confirm with someone who ~has~ taken the thing apart that "yes, those screws are in there" or "nope, no screws like that in there", then I'd feel better.

Mojo97

10-19-04, 09:52 PM

so, i have a question. is there something preventing me from receiving HD OTA signals from ANT-2 if i have my comcast cable (which has some digital channels) going to ANT-1?
I'm trying to figure out if i just am not receiving any OTA HD feeds or if i'm doing something wrong.

thx

nevermind, i was suffering from that digital tuning bug on ant-2, also. i needed to reset the tv and rescan on ant-2 and it started to pick up some digital stations. unfortunately, not all of the video stations i was hoping for...

anyways, this digital tuning bug is really annoying. i hope mitsubishi identifies this as a bug to be fixed in a firmware release sometime soon. it's pretty consistent for me and it seems like other people are seeing it, too.

DCinDC

10-19-04, 10:45 PM

Originally posted by Mojo97
anyways, this digital tuning bug is really annoying. i hope mitsubishi identifies this as a bug to be fixed in a firmware release sometime soon. it's pretty consistent for me and it seems like other people are seeing it, too.

I thought some 525 owners got a firmware fix for this issue that resolved it successfully. Perhaps a call to Mits with those symptoms will get you an update. I'm learning to ignore the version numbers.

DC

Mojo97

10-19-04, 11:06 PM

it's worth a shot to call. i'll try and get that done this weekend. you would think the 725 sets would have the latest firmware, though, right?

Ckuch9

10-20-04, 12:43 AM

Need some advice here....

K, here's the deal. I live in SE Michigan and my options seems somewhat limited on places that carry the 725 series. Today, I went to two places.

One was a high end audio/video store. Nice place... They have both 525 series tvs and both 725 series TVs. I asked about if the problem should happen, could I return the TV if I see major rainbows. They said since rainbows are not a TV defect, I could not. Though I have not seen any rainbows in any of the Mit DLPs I have seen. I think I did seen one or two watching the Kirk... hard to say considering what was showing was a documentry about Trace music. Though overall, the Samsung TVs seem to give me a headache. I don't know why.

Second place I went to was a large dept store (Sears owned I guess) The great indoors. They had just about every high end TV out now... even a Epson. They have the 52525 and the 62525. The store allows returns the first 30 days. Problem is, they don't have the 52' and the 62 might be a little too big. (they won't be carrying the 52725) They had the 525 without the screen and it didn't look too bad to me. Sure it looks a little unfinished, but not what I expected from what some others said. Afterall, I'm going to be looking at the screen not the border of the TV. (BTW is the replacement frame out yet?)

To add into the mix, I prefer the 725 with the better screen... I have a dog. Pretty big one.. 110 lb. American Bulldog. 525 has just too much glare. Since I'm investing some $$$, figure to be safe than sorry. An I have until the 21st, to get the no payments until 2006 deal at great indoors. So short on time to decide.

Those people with the 62725, how close are you sitting to your Tvs? I would be very happy if I could grab the 52725... but I want that 30 days insurance. If the TV is a little to big from my current viewing distance, would it be worth it to get the 62' if that could change in the next 6 months?

delar

10-20-04, 02:01 AM

Originally posted by boristhedog
Me too. I had read the entire "tilt" thread some time ago, so I was shocked when I saw the thing completely dismantled. That's why I'm a little skeptical about the whole thing....should have done it myself.

If I could just confirm with someone who ~has~ taken the thing apart that "yes, those screws are in there" or "nope, no screws like that in there", then I'd feel better.

When I disassembled the rear of my set I never removed any screws like that. Most were all properly threaded screws, and smaller. They do look similar to the machine screws that hold the lower back plastic cover on (same as those that hold the front keystone cover on), but the thread size is larger and fewer than those. Do they look like they once were threaded into something? Usually a screw like this will show evidence of prior use, damage caused by cutting its own threads through metal or plastic.

boristhedog

10-20-04, 08:02 AM

Originally posted by delar
When I disassembled the rear of my set I never removed any screws like that. Most were all properly threaded screws, and smaller. They do look similar to the machine screws that hold the lower back plastic cover on (same as those that hold the front keystone cover on), but the thread size is larger and fewer than those. Do they look like they once were threaded into something? Usually a screw like this will show evidence of prior use, damage caused by cutting its own threads through metal or plastic.

Thanks delar. I removed the back panel and looked around for missing screws, didn't see any. None of the screws I removed matched the "extra" ones. Removed the front speaker cover (no screws, just pops off), there might be a missing screw in the recessed hole on the corner of each speaker assembly, but I'm not sure. The "extra" screws show no wear....so I'm starting to feel a little better. Still going to try to get confirmation from Mits.

Thanks again!!!

UMD_Terp

10-20-04, 08:13 AM

I took out a one of the front screws off of the front of the TV, and it was not pointed at all like the ones you show in the pic. Also, the threads were much smaller as well... I wouldn't worry about it too much at this point.

boristhedog

10-20-04, 08:22 AM

I guess the service tech was just scatter-brained (assuming now that he just left a pile of spare screws sitting there just to drive me crazy)!! But he seemed pretty knowledgeable...he talked about some older Mits DLP TV's that he has seen for ~$1500 at some dealers that are just trying to get rid of them. I said huh?!?! I thought the 525/725's were the first Mits DLP's......apparently not, I looked it up...there's a Mits 6500 DLP RPTV from 2001. He also seemed to know a lot about the internal differences between Samsung and Mits DLPs.

However, he did dismiss the "spot" issue as normal for "these types of sets".

UMD_Terp

10-20-04, 08:28 AM

yup... Mitsubishi's first DLP:

http://www.hometheatermag.com/rearprojectiontvs/65/

I think it initially sold for a ridiculous price back then as well... something like $15k... :eek:

phillyaj

10-20-04, 08:31 AM

Originally posted by Ckuch9
Need some advice here....

K, here's the deal. I live in SE Michigan and my options seems somewhat limited on places that carry the 725 series. Today, I went to two places.

One was a high end audio/video store. Nice place... They have both 525 series tvs and both 725 series TVs. I asked about if the problem should happen, could I return the TV if I see major rainbows. They said since rainbows are not a TV defect, I could not. Though I have not seen any rainbows in any of the Mit DLPs I have seen. I think I did seen one or two watching the Kirk... hard to say considering what was showing was a documentry about Trace music. Though overall, the Samsung TVs seem to give me a headache. I don't know why.

Second place I went to was a large dept store (Sears owned I guess) The great indoors. They had just about every high end TV out now... even a Epson. They have the 52525 and the 62525. The store allows returns the first 30 days. Problem is, they don't have the 52' and the 62 might be a little too big. (they won't be carrying the 52725) They had the 525 without the screen and it didn't look too bad to me. Sure it looks a little unfinished, but not what I expected from what some others said. Afterall, I'm going to be looking at the screen not the border of the TV. (BTW is the replacement frame out yet?)

To add into the mix, I prefer the 725 with the better screen... I have a dog. Pretty big one.. 110 lb. American Bulldog. 525 has just too much glare. Since I'm investing some $$$, figure to be safe than sorry. An I have until the 21st, to get the no payments until 2006 deal at great indoors. So short on time to decide.

Those people with the 62725, how close are you sitting to your Tvs? I would be very happy if I could grab the 52725... but I want that 30 days insurance. If the TV is a little to big from my current viewing distance, would it be worth it to get the 62' if that could change in the next 6 months?

I was in a simular situation to you. I was replacing an older 50" Mitsubishi tv which I have had for 10 years or so. It seemed 'fine'. My room is 17' X 19' with sliding glass doors and skylights. My old Mitsu with a diamond shield had some glare that was really annoying so Glare was a factor. When I heard of the Mitsubishi DLP's I was excited. I had originally thought I would be purchasing a Sony XBR LCD (50 or 60"). Went to Tweeter and saw the 52525 and was not impressed. The Glare was horrible. When I started researching thru AVSFORUM I found out about the 725. A quick trip to a local A/V store sold me. Once I got my wife's buy-in, I did the deal. I used the Mitsu fianancing deal and purchased a 52725, with the matching stand, 5 yr warranty, and a Monster Power Strip.

The Set was delivered on a Tuesday..and my first impression was...."not that big".. My viewing distance is 16'. With the 16x9 format it doesn't look 'that big'. On Wednesday night , I called the store back and said....how about we do a deal? No problems. By Friday I was getting my 62725 with base, and they were boxing up the 52725.

As for the screen...that was a MUST. I have 3 kids (11, 9 and 5) plus a dog and 2 cats. There is always "action' at my house...with kids coming and going. We (as a family) watch a good amout of TV & Dvds, So I was under alot of pressure to get something Good. My wife was leaving it all in my hands (no pressure).

Final Verdict.. 4 Thumbs up from the family. They still comment on how great the tv looks and how awesome the picture is.

Good Luck.... =)

PM me if you have any other questions.

Andy

IFLYSWA

10-20-04, 08:40 AM

Originally posted by Ckuch9
Need some advice here....

Those people with the 62725, how close are you sitting to your Tvs? I would be very happy if I could grab the 52725... but I want that 30 days insurance. If the TV is a little to big from my current viewing distance, would it be worth it to get the 62' if that could change in the next 6 months?

Hi,
Sounds like you and I are in a somewhat similar situation. I have a 62725 and sit about 12' from it. That works well for HD content, both Comcast cable and OTA, and digital TV OTA is okay, too. I am not too confident in my signal strength on my cable, so keep that in mind when I say that I am not real happy with any of my cable output, with the exception of HD. When I sit about 3' further back (at my computer), it all looks better, even HD, although HD is pretty much stunning from 12'. I thought about swapping out for the 52725, but I just can't bring myself to give up the screen real estate for the money...mainly since I am in an apartment and am considering buying a house. Plus, I took one of my ReplayTVs into UE and hooked it up to both a 52725 and a 62725 to compare SD from a single source....the 52" model was a little better, but I didn't think the improvement was worth the screen size difference.
I hope that helps some....

Randy

JimPeterson

10-20-04, 09:01 AM

I've now had my 62725 for about 3 weeks. For two weeks I was constantly tweeking my video setting for each channel and show. I also ran through both Avia and DVE. Incidently, although Avia seems to be the most popular here, I found DVE just as easy to use and maybe easier because it automatically pauses the test patterns. Also, DVE is obviously more up-to-date.

Anyway, I guess that I've now become accustomed to the picture. I've stopped tweeking it and I'm quite happy and sometimes even amazed with the picture.

I did find that after setting the controls with Avia and DVE that I had to increace both contrast and brightness and lower color a bit to suit me.

cjut01

10-20-04, 09:13 AM

Originally posted by Ckuch9
Need some advice here....

Those people with the 62725, how close are you sitting to your Tvs? I would be very happy if I could grab the 52725... but I want that 30 days insurance. If the TV is a little to big from my current viewing distance, would it be worth it to get the 62' if that could change in the next 6 months?

Well, I have the 62725, and I sit 12-13 ft. from it. At that distance, HD (Cablevision Digital) is stunning and SD is OK. I think you need 12 feet to get the 62725.

My configuration is a little different-- I have a pre-existing non-HD cable box feeding Tivo (non-HD-- only DirecTV has the HD Tivo). I have my new HD cable box feeding directly into the TV. This helps tremendously because my wife can Tivo all her shows while I'm watching HD sports.

So, I have 3 devices producing video into the set:
1. DVD (Denon 3910) - Excellent! Via HDMI
2. Sci Atl HD Cable - Great for HD - OK for SD - Via Component
3. Tivo - via composite S-Video (ugh! worse than normal SD)

Does anyone else find that SD fed through standard Tivo looks worse than SD directly from the cable box? And why the heck can't we get:
1. HD Tivo for cable users
2. Or, a better output from Tivo (component? HDMI? DVI?

I am too far from NYC to receive OTA DirecTV local stations, and I have some not insurmountable tree troubles which would make a DirecTV install expensive. Don't know WHY DirecTV can't send the local stations (including Fox for sports) over their system yet. This is the major drawback to me.

IFLYSWA

10-20-04, 09:34 AM

Originally posted by cjut01

Does anyone else find that SD fed through standard Tivo looks worse than SD directly from the cable box? And why the heck can't we get:
1. HD Tivo for cable users
2. Or, a better output from Tivo (component? HDMI? DVI?

Hi,
I just tried this with my ReplayTV, and it makes a pretty big difference with my setup. You might have to change your equipment a little, but it could be worth it. I read about this on the RTV forum here at AVS. I run an S-video out of my HD Cable box (Moto 6208) to the S-Vid input on the RTV...then I record anything I can off digital stations (even the HD feeds) which my box downconverts for output on S-video. The resulting PQ on the RTV is much better and it even preserves the widescreen format, where applicable. I am not really familiar with TiVos or the SA box, but if they behave similarly, you could be see a nice improvement via this method....
I am looking forward to a full-featured, multi-platform, HD-capable PVR, too. The Moto cable box is okay....it really does record HD pretty well, although there are issues with transitions from SD to HD, but I really miss the features of my RTVs when dealing with that box. I'm hoping the new two-tuner, 6412 box will be better when it hits my area, but I doubt it will approach the RTV or TiVo in functionality.....

Randy

cjut01

10-20-04, 09:52 AM

Originally posted by IFLYSWA
Hi,
I just tried this with my ReplayTV, and it makes a pretty big difference with my setup. You might have to change your equipment a little, but it could be worth it. I read about this on the RTV forum here at AVS. I run an S-video out of my HD Cable box (Moto 6208) to the S-Vid input on the RTV...then I record anything I can off digital stations (even the HD feeds) which my box downconverts for output on S-video. The resulting PQ on the RTV is much better and it even preserves the widescreen format, where applicable. I am not really familiar with TiVos or the SA box, but if they behave similarly, you could be see a nice improvement via this method....

Randy

Randy- Yeah I agree. I stumbled on the need to add the old SD Sony cable box back into the mix when I was watching HD and not the Tivo video feed and the channel changed out from under me in order to record. So, it's not optimal but I need the two tuners. I use SVideo already, the only potential improvement would be if I got another HD cable box. Cablevision will not give me one unless it's specifically for another HD set (because it's more expensive for them). So I wait for a better PVR or DirecTV local channels.

Chris

IFLYSWA

10-20-04, 11:56 AM

Originally posted by cjut01
Randy- Yeah I agree. I stumbled on the need to add the old SD Sony cable box back into the mix when I was watching HD and not the Tivo video feed and the channel changed out from under me in order to record. So, it's not optimal but I need the two tuners. I use SVideo already, the only potential improvement would be if I got another HD cable box. Cablevision will not give me one unless it's specifically for another HD set (because it's more expensive for them). So I wait for a better PVR or DirecTV local channels.

Chris

I had been using S-video out from the RTV, but not in from the HD cable box. I had more or less just used straight cable into the RTVs. Anyway, I'll let this get back to your regularly scheduled thread!

Randy

JimPeterson

10-20-04, 02:15 PM

Originally posted by cjut01
Does anyone else find that SD fed through standard Tivo looks worse than SD directly from the cable box? And why the heck can't we get:
1. HD Tivo for cable users
2. Or, a better output from Tivo (component? HDMI? DVI?

I also have a TiVo connected to a 62725 via S-video. I find the picture very acceptable. If you have a standalone TiVo like I do, you can choose the recording quality and could try a higher quality.

time4akshun

10-20-04, 02:19 PM

Standalone Tivos down convert the digital signal from your cable box into an analog one before it hits the tv. That is the difference you are seeing.

A better option is the DirecTV Tivo combo, which is all in one, and keeps the signal digital all the way to the set. Much better picture quality.

You might also try a DVR from your cable company to provide the same all-in-one experience...

Time

anthonyinmiami

10-20-04, 03:21 PM

Originally posted by time4akshun
A better option is the DirecTV Tivo combo, which is all in one, and keeps the signal digital all the way to the set. Much better picture quality.

I have the HD Tivo HR10-250 hooked up to a WD-62725 and believe it or not using COMPONENT CABLES looks far superior to the HDMI-HDMI cable! Don't get me wrong, the HDMI picture is great but a little soft. The COMPONENT picture is sharp as a knife and very crisp. I was surprised because I am aware that COMPONENT must convert from digital to analog and back to digital...

The route that I am taking is hooking a future DVD to the set via HDMI and definitely sticking with the COMPONENT connection for Satellite/Tivo!

DCinDC

10-20-04, 03:27 PM

Originally posted by phillyaj
My old Mitsu with a diamond shield had some glare that was really annoying so Glare was a factor. When I heard of the Mitsubishi DLP's I was excited. I had originally thought I would be purchasing a Sony XBR LCD (50 or 60"). Went to Tweeter and saw the 52525 and was not impressed. The Glare was horrible. When I started researching thru AVSFORUM I found out about the 725. A quick trip to a local A/V store sold me. Once I got my wife's buy-in, I did the deal. I used the Mitsu fianancing deal and purchased a 52725, with the matching stand, 5 yr warranty, and a Monster Power Strip.

I just saw the 52725 in a local store and have to say I was really disappointed by the anti-glare screen. Only marginally better than the 525 glare screen IMO. Frankly, it wasn't a deal breaker for me on the 525, but it is giving me pause for thought and may delay my decision...

DC

Mojo97

10-20-04, 04:33 PM

i just received my 52725 yesterday. i bought it with only ever seeing hte 52525. i hated the glare on the 525... i have to say that i don't notice glare as being an issue at all with the 725. it's in a room where there is a window about 5 feet to the right. it has blinds and a curtain to keep the light out, but neither are perfect. as of right now, i haven't had any glare issues at all....

htwaits

10-20-04, 04:51 PM

Originally posted by anthonyinmiami
I was surprised because I am aware that COMPONENT must convert from digital to analog and back to digital...

Any Mitsubishi HDMI signal must also be converted from digital to analog and then back to digital. All DLP Mitsubishi HDMI input goes through analog.

I don't believe Mitsubishi has ever been a proponent of either DVI or HDMI input.

biggersbetter

10-20-04, 07:01 PM

tmsmith

10-20-04, 07:54 PM

Does the 52725 have the TV guide installed?

biggersbetter

10-20-04, 08:04 PM

Maybe a bit OT but I thought I'd save people some trouble when selecting a UPS for their HT.

On scpanel's advice, I went to buy an APC BX1500.

Local dealer was out of stock, so I got a Cyberpower 1500. This unit has too much HUM to be useful in an HT environment. Almost too much hum for a quiet office. The only redeeming feature is that it can be rack mounted or placed in an A/V shelf as well as floor standing.

So, I took that back and got the APC unit. No perceptible hum, and worked great for 2 days, then had an internal overload fault. Back to the store this AM, got a replacement. Hopefully will be OK this time.

Also, the Cyberpower weighs almost twice as much as the APC (box says "2 man carry), but only has 20 or 30% more capacity :-(

Thanks scpanel for the great recommendation !

Rick

scpanel

10-20-04, 08:11 PM

Thanks Rick,

The UPS has already saved me twice again the last 2 days due to the heavy rain and one was a 10 min power outage. Plus I was still watching DISH!

How cool is that!

Mojo97

10-21-04, 10:43 AM

For those of you who have an HD STB hooked up, are you using component or dvi --> HDMI? Prices for the dvi to HDMI cables aren't exactly cheap, and i have a set of good component video cables already. Was wondering if there is much of a difference in PQ going from the component to DVI->HDMI connection?

thx

neoikon

10-21-04, 10:49 AM

Originally posted by tmsmith
Does the 52725 have the TV guide installed?

Nope.

Mojo97

10-21-04, 11:14 AM

Originally posted by neoikon
I went to GameCrazy, GameFellas, BB, and CC and none had the HD pack. So, I went with the Monster Xbox cables. Yup, fixed the problem! Picture looks amazing! My empty pocket doesn't look amazing, though.

Thanks to everyone for their help! I knew I shouldn't have gone with a 3rd party adaptor, but I didn't have much choice!

i just picked up an HD pack made by Psyclone. Is this the 3rd party adaptor you're talking about? I was at Best Buy, and that's all they had for component video adapters for the XBox...

htwaits

10-21-04, 11:15 AM

Originally posted by Mojo97
Prices for the dvi to HDMI cables aren't exactly cheap, ...
You can get all combinations of good quality DVI/HDMI cables for $20 - $30 depending on the length and shipping.

Mojo97

10-21-04, 11:19 AM

really? i should check that out. i've seen some reasonably priced cables mentioned around. what's the consensus best bang for the buck? i think i've heard people mention bluejeans cables?

btw, htwaits, i've got my HTPC hooked up to my 52725 via vga and used the powerstrip timings in that other thread. pictures looks great...

subwoofer

10-21-04, 11:41 AM

I'm still thinking about getting the 52725, what are good dimensions for a stand for that size dlp tv?

neoikon

10-21-04, 12:00 PM

Originally posted by Mojo97
what's the consensus best bang for the buck? i think i've heard people mention bluejeans cables?

btw, htwaits, i've got my HTPC hooked up to my 52725 via vga and used the powerstrip timings in that other thread. pictures looks great...

I recently bought a set of Blue Jean component cables. They're serious! I would definitely buy from them again. My non-videophile eyes think they look as good as the Monster video 3 cables that I was using, if not better. Plus, they're a bit cheaper and look more industrial strength. I used to like "Better Cables" but their pricing has gotten rediculous!

I also hooked my HTPC up via VGA, used the powerstrip timings, and it does look great! Even though my PC supports DVI, the picture looks so great that I don't need to bother with it. Especially, since people have had trouble getting it to work correctly, the manual actually states that the HDMI port is not designed to be used with a PC, and I'm tired of spending money! :D

DanieL

htwaits

10-21-04, 12:20 PM

Originally posted by Mojo97
btw, htwaits, i've got my HTPC hooked up to my 52725 via vga and used the powerstrip timings in that other thread. pictures looks great...
Are you guys dedicating a PC to the TV when you use VGA?

Right now I'm using one PC with VGA out to my monitor and DVI out to my HLP5063. The cable to the TV passes through a wall. To do what you are doing I would need a new graphics card with two VGA outputs. Since my current "9xxx" series ATI card is doing a good job I am not eager to replace it. :rolleyes:

I only do a little Internet access from the TV, but want good PQ for movies running from my PC's hard disk.

Mojo97

10-21-04, 12:25 PM

hey neoikon, are you using the bluejean component cables for your STB HD Box? did you try it out with dvi-hdmi at all?

also, did you see my post above about the xbox question?

thx

bmartin5150

10-21-04, 12:58 PM

I'm about to pull the triger on the 62725 and I have couple of quick questions.

1. Does the mits have dicrete remote codes for its inputs (couldn't find this with the seach function)

2. Does it have more then one picture setting per input like the Samsungs do? (i.e .Standard, Dynamic, Cinema) - I like to have seperate day time and night time settings.

3. Can the Picture-in-Picture function use a HD image for one or both of the inputs?

Thanks in advance

neoikon

10-21-04, 02:45 PM

Originally posted by Mojo97
hey neoikon, are you using the bluejean component cables for your STB HD Box? did you try it out with dvi-hdmi at all?

also, did you see my post above about the xbox question?

thx

I'm using the Blue Jean Cables for my DVD player. I don't have a HD box at all. Currently all I have is an antenna on the roof and the basic $10 cable (which I found last night to give me local HD channels! I was hype!) So, both are going into the TV via standard coax. I've yet to try HDMI at all with this TV.

I ended up going with the Monster Xbox cables, which is an all-integrated deal (versus having a box that you can plug any cable into). The third party one I bought before I got off ebay. It actually didn't have a brand name at all on it. Here's a pic of it:

My crappy HD kit (http://server5.uploadit.org/files/neoikon-XboxComponent.jpg )

Ckuch9

10-21-04, 03:09 PM

Can anyone confirm or deny if the 725 screen can fit on the 525? I know Mits claims it can not, but what I am asking is anyone who has switched sets... maybe seen a difference in how the screens are, or tried it. or had a salsesman try it? Maybe even those who work in the TV retail stores?

I went to a store that had the screen off the 525 and had the 725 next to it. I asked him if you could put the 725 screen on the 525. He didn't know, and for a second went to try it... then just said, if you want the screen just get the 725...and wouldn't make the swtich.

Problem is, this store won't give me a 30 day exchange, and won't price match. It's the only place I can find that has the 52725.

Those wanting the 525... Sears dropped the price this week. Alot of the DLPS at Besty buy seemed reduced in price today.

neoikon

10-21-04, 03:10 PM

Originally posted by htwaits
Are you guys dedicating a PC to the TV when you use VGA?

Right now I'm using one PC with VGA out to my monitor and DVI out to my HLP5063. The cable to the TV passes through a wall. To do what you are doing I would need a new graphics card with two VGA outputs. Since my current "9xxx" series ATI card is doing a good job I am not eager to replace it. :rolleyes:

I only do a little Internet access from the TV, but want good PQ for movies running from my PC's hard disk.

I personally have a PC dedicated to my TV via the VGA port. I have a second PC in my office for a PC to actually sit at (hooked to a monitor). My idea is that I will use the HTPC (Home Theater PC) in the future for DVR use, MP3 playback, video playback, as well as typical surfin'.

I understand your frustration in possibly needing a second video card. I wanted to just use my laptop as my HTPC, but it had a Radeon Rage video card, which does not support custom resolution. So, I ended up just buying another PC.

htwaits

10-21-04, 03:18 PM

Originally posted by neoikon
I ended up just buying another PC.
Thanks for the information. If I were to go with the Mits I think that your solution networked with our other computers would be best.

atdauph

10-21-04, 03:28 PM

I was viewing the 62725 yesterday at my local Tweeter, the pennant race between the Astros and the Cards to be exact, and I must say the picture was not that impressive. There was a Sony XBR 70" that looked, not much, but better. They did have the usual HD component feed that was spliced across the whole store, which I'm not sure if this makes all the difference or not. It was a terrestrial broadcast from FOX26 here in Houston, but I'm not sure what receiver, but the detail and color bands were horrible from 12' away. Grain everywhere. It did appear that much of this noise could have been attributed to overly compressed HD.

We did view a DVD (The Italian Job) and although I noticed some EE, the picture was better. Very filmlike for a DLP, and much better blacks than any LCD. I was impressed. I'm coming from a VPL-HS10 LCD FP at 74".

Please tell me that everyone here has seen much better results with HD than this. Is it possible for this set to 'knock my socks off' with a pristine HD signal? I really would like to try bring my own HD receiver and see what is possible.

Thanks for the help.

MATTZS

10-21-04, 03:45 PM

Originally posted by atdauph
I was viewing the 62725 yesterday at my local Tweeter, the pennant race between the Astros and the Cards to be exact, and I must say the picture was not that impressive. There was a Sony XBR 70" that looked, not much, but better. They did have the usual HD component feed that was spliced across the whole store, which I'm not sure if this makes all the difference or not. It was a terrestrial broadcast from FOX26 here in Houston, but I'm not sure what receiver, but the detail and color bands were horrible from 12' away. Grain everywhere. It did appear that much of this noise could have been attributed to overly compressed HD.

We did view a DVD (The Italian Job) and although I noticed some EE, the picture was better. Very filmlike for a DLP, and much better blacks than any LCD. I was impressed. I'm coming from a VPL-HS10 LCD FP at 74".

Please tell me that everyone here has seen much better results with HD than this. Is it possible for this set to 'knock my socks off' with a pristine HD signal? I really would like to try bring my own HD receiver and see what is possible.

Thanks for the help.

When I was first checking out the 52525 at tweeter I found the same thing, very bad digi noise, I didn't know if I could live with all that noise, when I asked the salesmen they said Mitsu had more noise than other sets. I looked at two other stores and the picture was much better, went back to tweeter and had them put on there HD hard drive on the set and bam! a perfect picture, blew my mind! I have the set home and love it through comcast, great picture and with out the grain. Don't know what tweeter does to there signal but it's not a selling point.

neoikon

10-21-04, 03:52 PM

Originally posted by atdauph
Please tell me that everyone here has seen much better results with HD than this. Is it possible for this set to 'knock my socks off' with a pristine HD signal? I really would like to try bring my own HD receiver and see what is possible.

I personally have had amazing results with this TV. I've seen some PBS HD and Sports HD broadcasts that look better than looking out a window (no graininess, etc). Knowing this, I know the set itself is capable of an amazing picture. However, if the source is bad or even not great, then it will show up (especially on a 62" set).

IFLYSWA

10-21-04, 03:54 PM

Originally posted by atdauph
Please tell me that everyone here has seen much better results with HD than this. Is it possible for this set to 'knock my socks off' with a pristine HD signal? I really would like to try bring my own HD receiver and see what is possible.

Thanks for the help.

Nope...they all suck...that's why we bought 'em! ;) Just kidding! Sorry, couldn't resist. I believe you will find that the DLP sets' PQ is very dependent on their settings. I did a little tweaking to my 62725 last night, based on some settings posted by umr (thanks again!) and the 'Stros game from my local (DFW) Fox affiliate OTA was very good. There were some issues on their end....some cameras simply weren't set up very well...but most of the time the PQ was very good, IMHO. If they were using out of the box settings I imagine you were seeing all sorts of noise in the grass, etc. That's the way mine looked out of the box....but with even minimal tweaking by an inexperienced user, they look very, very good!

Just my $.02...
Randy

subwoofer

10-21-04, 04:10 PM

simple question again.............

What do people mean by that DLP tvs today have trouble getting 1:1 pixels? Or something like that. Also that Mits can get that but Sammys can't.

subwoofer

10-21-04, 04:10 PM

simple question again.............

What do people mean by that DLP tvs today have trouble getting 1:1 pixels? Or something like that. Also that Mits can get that but Sammys can't.

2left

10-21-04, 05:59 PM

Originally posted by atdauph
I was viewing the 62725 yesterday at my local Tweeter, the pennant race between the Astros and the Cards to be exact, and I must say the picture was not that impressive. . . Please tell me that everyone here has seen much better results with HD than this. Is it possible for this set to 'knock my socks off' with a pristine HD signal? I really would like to try bring my own HD receiver and see what is possible.

Thanks for the help.

When I was watching the ALCS last night on my 62725, the camera closed in on a player to show his expression. I could see his mottled skin and every beard stubble, pimple, ingrown hair and dirt-clogged pore on his face. I could practically smell his covering of oil and sweat. Knock your socks off? How about bring your lunch up? The picture was so good, it was disgusting.

hyperdoc

10-21-04, 06:01 PM

Yes - My wife complains about HD on 52725 because favorite TV people have wrinkles, blimishes... Not perfect anymore. My picture is however.

htwaits

10-21-04, 06:29 PM

Originally posted by subwoofer
What do people mean by that DLP tvs today have trouble getting 1:1 pixels? Or something like that. Also that Mits can get that but Sammys can't.
What people?

The DLP chips in current RPTV models all produce 1280x720 pixels on the screen. If they are fed a signal that maps those pixels 1 for 1 then the picture quality should be better than when the image must be scaled from some other resolution.

The Samsung DLP sets are easy to set up to get 1280x720 (720p) resolution from a PC if you have a graphics card that can do that resolution. It's even better if the card has a DVI output so that the image is digital all the way to being displayed.

The Mitsubishi DLP is a little different. Their HDMI (same as DVI) input for video forces the image through an analog convertion when it gets to the TV. Then the image is converted back to digital for display. So far no one has reported getting 1280x720 (1x1 bit map of the native DLP resolution) to work through the Mits HDMI port. The Mitsubishi manual says that it will NOT work.

What does work on the Mitsubishi is 1280x720 through VGA which is an analog input. The Mitsubishi DLP sets seem to do very well with analog input so that's not a big deal. Since the higher end graphics cards that do 1280x720 don't usually have two VGA outputs you probably have to have a PC that uses the Mitsubishi as it's only display.

That's my non-technical understanding of what is going on. DLP chips are naturals for 1x1 bit mapping. :)

scpanel

10-21-04, 07:21 PM

I understand your frustration in possibly needing a second video card. I wanted to just use my laptop as my HTPC, but it had a Radeon Rage video card, which does not support custom resolution. So, I ended up just buying another PC.

neoikon,

Which HT PC did you buy? Are you using it as your DVD player?

Steve

atdauph

10-21-04, 07:45 PM

Originally posted by 2left
When I was watching the ALCS last night on my 62725, the camera closed in on a player to show his expression. I could see his mottled skin and every beard stubble, pimple, ingrown hair and dirt-clogged pore on his face. I could practically smell his covering of oil and sweat. Knock your socks off? How about bring your lunch up? The picture was so good, it was disgusting.

That's what I'm talking about!

:D

I knew I could count on you guys to convince me. I really do like the fit and finish of this TV. It really has a much more 'grand' appearance than the other models out there, PQ asside.

I will definately go and have a second look at this set and see if I can get some reference HD on this baby.

Thanks again.

If the Stro's make it to the WS, I may be part of the Mitsu club sooner than later.

SK8_MD

10-21-04, 08:20 PM

I currently have my PC in the same room as my Mitsubishi. The PC has dual outputs, VGA & DVI,as many video cards do nowadays. The primary is the VGA port is connected to a regular 19" monitor and the secondary display is the DVI port and connects to the HDMI on the TV via a 50' cable.
Since the distance from the PC to the TV is fairly long and I have been unsuccessful in the past pushing an analog VGA signal over long distances, I felt the digital interface would the best solution.
Bottom line is the picture is great, crisp text and great color. I do have the overscan problem which probably confirms a non-pure-digital path but i'm still happy with the ability to do some big screen gaming and occasional surfing from the recliner.

raapidrich

10-21-04, 09:10 PM

Just read the entire thread and the information is excellent! For the $$$ I just want assurance in my purchase.

I've purchased the WD-52525 with the option to preview for 60 days and upgrade. I've had the set now for a couple of weeks in my living room and looks excellent but I have to think long term; don't want to wish I would have purchased the WD-52725 (because of the anti-glare) instead. Then if I find the 725 does not look as good I'll kick myself for already having the 525 in place but has been returned to the store!

For what it's worth, I have HD Directv.

From what I've read here on this site is that the 575 is no doubt a killer TV.

1) Most important: Can you convince me any more? Keep the 525 or upgrade to the 725?

2) Anyone here have the luxury of being able to compare the 525 and 725 in their home?

3) Does the WD52725 have removable anti glare screen?

Lastly, I like the suggestion in the thread that Mitsu should offer an anti glare screen for the 525. Yes I agree they admit mistake by putting out the 725.

Sincere thanks to all!

Rich

Keyser Sose

10-21-04, 09:21 PM

Like I've said before, " I swapped out the 62525 for the 62725". Best 200 bucks I ever spend.

Picture is "STUNNING".

htwaits

10-21-04, 09:58 PM

Originally posted by SK8_MD
I currently have my PC in the same room as my Mitsubishi.
That's good news. :)

You may be the first to report good results from a DVI/HDMI connection to one of the Mits DLP sets.

Are you outputting 1280x720?

Which model TV and graphics card do you have?

htwaits

10-21-04, 10:00 PM

Originally posted by raapidrich
3) Does the WD52725 have removable anti glare screen?

Yes.

Keyser Sose

10-21-04, 10:10 PM

3) Does the WD52725 have removable anti glare screen?

To "MY EYE", the 62725 looses depth with the anti glare screen removed.

UMD_Terp

10-21-04, 10:11 PM

Originally posted by Keyser Sose
To "MY EYE", the 62725 looses depth with the anti glare screen removed.

mine too... The screen does something to the picture... it is hard to describe fully. I like it better with it on...

SK8_MD

10-21-04, 10:15 PM

Originally posted by htwaits
That's good news. :)

You may be the first to report good results from a DVI/HDMI connection to one of the Mits DLP sets.

Are you outputting 1280x720?

Which model TV and graphics card do you have?

Yup, I'm using a Leadtek A250 VIVO (nVidia Ti4200) set to 1280 x 720 to my 52525

htwaits

10-21-04, 10:21 PM

Originally posted by SK8_MD
Yup, I'm using a Leadtek A250 VIVO (nVidia Ti4200) set to 1280 x 720 to my 52525
Thanks again.

Did a plug&play install work or did you have to work some magic?

Now I'm going to have to hall my PC into a friendly TV store. Thanks.

SK8_MD

10-21-04, 11:47 PM

Originally posted by htwaits
Thanks again.

Did a plug&play install work or did you have to work some magic?

Now I'm going to have to hall my PC into a friendly TV store. Thanks.

It was fairly easy and there was defintely no magic. The nVidia drivers have really improved over the years making it easy use their features.
The hard part for me is snaking yet another cable from the PC to the TV.

IronHorse

10-21-04, 11:47 PM

Can someone who actually has a 52" and a 62" Mits tell me the exact dimension of the viewable area of the screen? I'm looking for height and width within the "masked" area, and if possible... can you also tell me whether the opaque black mask area is a uniform width above, below, and to each side of the screen?

Thanks!

SK8_MD

10-22-04, 12:00 AM

Originally posted by IronHorse
Can someone who actually has a 52" and a 62" Mits tell me the exact dimension of the viewable area of the screen? I'm looking for height and width within the "masked" area, and if possible... can you also tell me whether the opaque black mask area is a uniform width above, below, and to each side of the screen?

Thanks!

I have 45.25" wide by 25.375" high for the 52525.

The black mask area is approx. 2" on the sides and the bottom. Only about 1.5"at the top.

Why do you ask? Your not making a mock-up, are you?

TenthScale

10-22-04, 12:14 AM

Long time Lurker but I registered to give a little good news to the Bay Area people.

I finally purchased a 62725 yesterday but will be picking it up on the 29th :( Unfortionatly I had to go to Austin for work at the last minute.

If you are in the bay area and looking for that TV Go to the Best Buy in San Carlos.. they have a Magnolia center there and the TV is reduced to a very attractive price over GG and other places.. In addition since I am a Rewards Zone member I will be getting about another $200 in BB GC in the mail. Got 2 years no interist as well. So over all can't beat it since It will be the first thing in our new house we are leasing starting the 29th as well.

Now to decide what HD service to get.. I am thinking about calling D* and get the special Sunday Ticket deal. Don't need the Sinday ticket so bad but it lowers the price on the Total package and get the Ticket basically free.

Mojo97

10-22-04, 12:22 AM

what settings do you all use for your xbox component video feed? i'm using the settings that UMR posted for cable. are people using those settings for xbox, too?

thx

IronHorse

10-22-04, 12:25 AM

Yup. Just frames of 3/4" X 3/4" wood so I can see the comparison. Thanks for the help.

Snowbum

10-22-04, 12:48 AM

Originally posted by anthonyinmiami
I have the HD Tivo HR10-250 hooked up to a WD-62725 and believe it or not using COMPONENT CABLES looks far superior to the HDMI-HDMI cable! Don't get me wrong, the HDMI picture is great but a little soft. The COMPONENT picture is sharp as a knife and very crisp. I was surprised because I am aware that COMPONENT must convert from digital to analog and back to digital...

The route that I am taking is hooking a future DVD to the set via HDMI and definitely sticking with the COMPONENT connection for Satellite/Tivo!

Ok.. I have a few questions that I am hoping you guys can help me with. Tweeter delivered today my 62725 set and picked up my 62525 set. There are a couple of issues that I have noticed with my 725 set that I did not really notice with my 525 set.

1.) When I change from a DirecTV via HDMI SD channel to a HD channel there is a pause, some screen flickering, and then finally the set settles on a picture. I had my 62525 set for several weeks and do not recall this happening on my 525 set. Is this normal? Is it fixed via a firmware update? Has anyone else experienced this?

2.) I have noticed several anomalies while viewing a picture. Firstly there is a very, very thin red line that disappears as quickly as it appears on random spots on the screen. This seems to happen on SD and HD channels alike. It seems almost like a line that appears when the TV is scanning the horizontal lines. Secondly, there are many, tiny, white dots that appear almost like tiny "snow" particles while watching any channel on DirecTV via HDMI. Obviously these dots are barely noticeable while viewing a brighter image on the screen. However, while viewing a darker image or changing the channel from a SD to HD (or vice versa), you can really see them until the image finally settles down as mentioned in problem 1 above.

None of these anomalies appear while working on my PC connected via RGB, viewing programs on my DirecTivo unit connected via S-video, or even my DVD connected via component. Does this mean there is a problem with my HDMI port and I should return the TV?

Please help as I am very frustrated by all of this. I was reluctant to swap out my 525 unit since it seemed to work flawlessly. I knew I would be taking a chance and my fears came true. Thanks in advance for your help.

Snowbum

10-22-04, 01:04 AM

Originally posted by raapidrich
Just read the entire thread and the information is excellent! For the $$$ I just want assurance in my purchase.

I've purchased the WD-52525 with the option to preview for 60 days and upgrade. I've had the set now for a couple of weeks in my living room and looks excellent but I have to think long term; don't want to wish I would have purchased the WD-52725 (because of the anti-glare) instead. Then if I find the 725 does not look as good I'll kick myself for already having the 525 in place but has been returned to the store!

For what it's worth, I have HD Directv.

From what I've read here on this site is that the 575 is no doubt a killer TV.

1) Most important: Can you convince me any more? Keep the 525 or upgrade to the 725?

2) Anyone here have the luxury of being able to compare the 525 and 725 in their home?

3) Does the WD52725 have removable anti glare screen?

Lastly, I like the suggestion in the thread that Mitsu should offer an anti glare screen for the 525. Yes I agree they admit mistake by putting out the 725.

Sincere thanks to all!

Rich

Asthetically I really like the look of the 62725 better than that of the 62525. Of course in addition my self standing Boston Acoustic front channel speakers, my center speaker and the shelf I have mounted above the television is black as well. I have also noticed a difference in how much less reflective the screen is than the screen on my previous 525.

The glare screen on the 725 series televisions is removable much like the 525 series units.

Go for the 725 series. I paid less for my 725 unit at Tweeter than I did for the 525 unit that I purchased from Best Buy.

htwaits

10-22-04, 02:24 AM

Originally posted by Snowbum
Secondly, there are many, tiny, white dots that appear almost like tiny "snow" particles while watching any channel on DirecTV via HDMI. Obviously these dots are barely noticeable while viewing a brighter image on the screen. However, while viewing a darker image or changing the channel from a SD to HD (or vice versa), you can really see them until the image finally settles down as mentioned in problem 1 above.

None of these anomalies appear while working on my PC connected via RGB, viewing programs on my DirecTivo unit connected via S-video, or even my DVD connected via component. Does this mean there is a problem with my HDMI port and I should return the TV?

A DVI cable that is picking up interference can have what people who have experienced it call sparkles. It's usually related to using a longer than normal cable of poor build quality.

I've also read that the HDMI connection can be too loose on Mitsubishi DLP sets.

It does sound like your problem could be related to the cable or the connections.

I'm using a DVI to HDMI cable with a Comcast STB and a Samsung HLP5063 without a problem.

Snowbum

10-22-04, 10:42 AM

Originally posted by htwaits
A DVI cable that is picking up interference can have what people who have experienced it call sparkles. It's usually related to using a longer than normal cable of poor build quality.

I've also read that the HDMI connection can be too loose on Mitsubishi DLP sets.

It does sound like your problem could be related to the cable or the connections.

I'm using a DVI to HDMI cable with a Comcast STB and a Samsung HLP5063 without a problem.

Thank you for your response. This is the same expensive Monster HDMI to DVI cable I was using on my 62525 which did not exhibit this behavior. The length is pretty standard as well. I have read about people having problems with loose HDMI connections but I have to say that mine fits pretty snugly. Given this information do you think that the HDMI port is bad? I guess I could try hooking up my Samsung DVI DVD player to my HDMI port and see if any of these issues occur. I will keep you posted as to what happens. Has anyone else experienced this or any of the other problems with the 725 series that I listed above?

radtek

10-22-04, 10:43 AM

I have a question about the fans on my 62725. I know there is the main fan that is operating when the set is playing, but I noticed a quieter fan running when the set has been off even over night. Is this normal? Seems unnecessary have a fan running constantly and lead to it wearing out faster. Has anyone noticed this in their Mits?

rjg41

10-22-04, 10:49 AM

AUDIO QUESTION

The 62725 has a HDTV tuner.

1) Looking at the back panel drawing is the digital audio connection just above the cable card the tuner audio digital output? If not what is?

2) Due to a size limitation want to use the sets speakers as my center channel. Know there is input connections and someone has already answered me they did it but just curious, are the sets speakers "disconnected" from the tuner audio when you make these connections? If not any suggestions how to isolate them from the tuner so that the only thing the speakers will produce is my center channel feed. Note I do have a center channel pre-amp feed from my receiver.

phillyaj

10-22-04, 10:52 AM

Ok...So I just LOVE my 62725...but as the rest of you, I'm a constant 'tweaker'. My question is on connections.

I currently have a Comcast Scientific Atlanta 3250HD digital cable box which is hooked up via component cables for video and digital optical out to my A/V receiver. I also have a 'cheapy' cyberhome dvd player hooked up via component input for video and digital coax out to my A/V receiver.

I hear all the discussions about the HDMI hookup and it's issues. Is there any advantage of hooking up via HDMI rather than component? i.e. When I'm watching what I believe to be HD content on ABC and/or CBS (i.e. Survivor), will I still get the black bars on the sides? What about DVDs?? Will it help with that??

Also..My installer told me the 1394 hookups on the cablebox don't work...has anyone tried to hookup cablebox via 1394? (Reason I ask is Comcast told someone that digital optical out didn't work...and it works like a charm).

Thanks...and keep up the great work on this forum. Love learning from here...and adding my 2cents on occasion.

FYI...I do plan to upgrade my dvd player...but this cyberhome is better than my Integra 6-disk dvd-changer that is 5 years old. Anyone want to buy an Integra DPC-6??

neoikon

10-22-04, 10:56 AM

Originally posted by radtek
but I noticed a quieter fan running when the set has been off even over night. Is this normal? Seems unnecessary have a fan running constantly and lead to it wearing out faster. Has anyone noticed this in their Mits?

Yeah, people have confirmed that there is always a fan on (as with my set as well) and this is normal operation. Yeah, seems weird, but it seems to be normal.

phillyaj

10-22-04, 10:57 AM

Originally posted by rjg41
AUDIO QUESTION

The 62725 has a HDTV tuner.

1) Looking at the back panel drawing is the digital audio connection just above the cable card the tuner audio digital output? If not what is?

2) Due to a size limitation want to use the sets speakers as my center channel. Know there is input connections and someone has already answered me they did it but just curious, are the sets speakers "disconnected" from the tuner audio when you make these connections? If not any suggestions how to isolate them from the tuner so that the only thing the speakers will produce is my center channel feed. Note I do have a center channel pre-amp feed from my receiver.

According to page 14 of the Owners Manual...

"12. Digital Audio Output
This output will automatically send Dolby Digital audio from digital channels and IEEE 1394 devices to a digitial Audio/Video receiver. Connect this output to the A/V receiver's coaxial digital audio input. This output will automatically trn off when viewing an analog channel or device. Use Monitor Output Audio 2 to send analog sound to your A/V Receiver".

I havn't hooked this up as I use the Digital optical from my Cablebox and the Digital Coax from my DVD.

Good luck.

Andy

neoikon

10-22-04, 10:59 AM

Originally posted by Mojo97
what settings do you all use for your xbox component video feed?
I typically start with the settings I used on another feed and then adjust from there.

neoikon

10-22-04, 11:07 AM

Originally posted by scpanel
neoikon,
Which HT PC did you buy? Are you using it as your DVD player?
Steve

Are they producing computers to only be used as an HTPC? As in, labeled as a HTPC from the manufacturer? Mine is just a Dell Dimension 8600, Pent 4, 3Ghz/800fsb, 1G of RAM, 128M Radeon X300 (DVI, VGA, S-vid). I'm not using it as my DVD player. I already have a progressive scan Sony DVD player.

boristhedog

10-22-04, 11:23 AM

Originally posted by Snowbum
1.) When I change from a DirecTV via HDMI SD channel to a HD channel there is a pause, some screen flickering, and then finally the set settles on a picture. I had my 62525 set for several weeks and do not recall this happening on my 525 set. Is this normal? Is it fixed via a firmware update? Has anyone else experienced this?

Secondly, there are many, tiny, white dots that appear almost like tiny "snow" particles while watching any channel on DirecTV via HDMI. [/B]

I have noticed the "flickering" as well. It seems to only be between HD<->SD channels, or between HD channels of different format 720p->1080i etc. I asked the service tech about this and he said it was the "source" doing it (in our case Directv). But you say the 525 did not do this at all....hmmm, that makes me think it IS a problem.

I also see the "snow" particles using the DVI->HDMI. I'm probably going to switch back to compnent.

Mojo97

10-22-04, 11:41 AM

Originally posted by neoikon
Are they producing computers to only be used as an HTPC? As in, labeled as a HTPC from the manufacturer? Mine is just a Dell Dimension 8600, Pent 4, 3Ghz/800fsb, 1G of RAM, 128M Radeon X300 (DVI, VGA, S-vid). I'm not using it as my DVD player. I already have a progressive scan Sony DVD player.

yes, they are selling branded HTPCs, but those are just PC's with Windows Media Center installed on it. I built my HTPC myself using a Shuttle case, P4 2.8 cpu, M-Audio Revolution sound card, nVidia 5700fx 256 MB graphics, 1gig ram, bla bla bla... Software is just Windows XP with Meedio being the main interface...

neoikon

10-22-04, 11:57 AM

Originally posted by Mojo97
yes, they are selling branded HTPCs, but those are just PC's with Windows Media Center installed on it. I built my HTPC myself using a Shuttle case, P4 2.8 cpu, M-Audio Revolution sound card, nVidia 5700fx 256 MB graphics, 1gig ram, bla bla bla... Software is just Windows XP with Meedio being the main interface...
Interesting. Yeah, I used to build my own machines, but now-a-days it seems cheaper to just start with a prebuilt one and add-on/upgrade. Plus, Dell comps (as well as others) have a really well built and quiet case. My custom built one in my office is a roaring typhoon of fan noise (about 7 fans), since I was all concerned about CPU temp. :] Definitely not something I'd want in the living room!

Mojo97

10-22-04, 12:15 PM

Originally posted by neoikon
Interesting. Yeah, I used to build my own machines, but now-a-days it seems cheaper to just start with a prebuilt one and add-on/upgrade. Plus, Dell comps (as well as others) have a really well built and quiet case. My custom built one in my office is a roaring typhoon of fan noise (about 7 fans), since I was all concerned about CPU temp. :] Definitely not something I'd want in the living room!

it all depends on how you build the machine. i used a Shuttle case because it's a small form factor pc. it uses a proprietary heatsink to keep the cpu cool, so it's relatively quiet. you can also buy video cards that use passive cooling, rather than a fan, etc... my whole setup doesn't make any sort of distracting noise and it sits in the component rack right next to my tv...
in retrospect, if i were to build one again, i would use a different case because there isn't enough expandability in a small form factor case. i have too many external peripherals... they do make PC cases now that look more like a piece of HT equipment. That's what i would use if building again. in fact, i've been toying with the idea of getting one of those cases, a new motherboard, CPU and powersupply and just dumping all of the other components from my current setup into it. but, i think that would require me to reinstall the OS, so i haven't gone down that road yet...

Mojo97

10-22-04, 12:18 PM

so, comcast just showed up about an hour ago and got me working with digital/hd. (big grin on my face) i'm trying to consolidate all of these friggin remotes that i have, though. so, i used netcommand to program the tv's remote to control the cable box. it seemed to learn all of the buttons fine according to netcommand. however, the cablebox (when i switch it the remote to cable) doesn't appear to be responding. the manual mentioned something about ieee 1394 devices and how i may have to use an ir emitter. do you think this is the case with this? or, am i doing something wrong?

thx

pjr

10-22-04, 12:34 PM

Are there some 62725 owners who are using their HDMI input with no PQ problems?

TomTx

10-22-04, 12:56 PM

Originally posted by phillyaj
Ok...So I just LOVE my 62725...but as the rest of you, I'm a constant 'tweaker'. My question is on connections.

I currently have a Comcast Scientific Atlanta 3250HD digital cable box which is hooked up via component cables for video and digital optical out to my A/V receiver. I also have a 'cheapy' cyberhome dvd player hooked up via component input for video and digital coax out to my A/V receiver.
...
...I do plan to upgrade my dvd player...but this cyberhome is better than my Integra 6-disk dvd-changer that is 5 years old. Anyone want to buy an Integra DPC-6??

First of all this is my first post as I just became a member and just got my 62725 this past Monday evening.

I too have an interim CH-DVD300 and was wondering if anyone found a remote control code that will work with this player on the Mits' universal remote.

Now back to playing, (tweaking, no adjusting, no just playing) with some more controls.

Thanks

krichey

10-22-04, 01:07 PM

I have used DVI/HDMI from a 1910 Denon DVD player, and now I am using HDMI/HDMI from a 2910 Denon DVD player, and my picture is excellent.

Snowbum

10-22-04, 01:33 PM

Originally posted by pjr
Are there some 62725 owners who are using their HDMI input with no PQ problems?

I had my 62525 connected to my Samsung 360 HD DirecTV STB via HDMI to DVI cable and the PQ was perfect. I upgraded my TV to the 62725, it was delivered yesterday, and I am now having several issues which I mention on page 47 of this thread. Grant it these issues are all somewhat trivial but not tolerable given the pricepoint of this TV.

rjg41

10-22-04, 01:49 PM

Originally posted by phillyaj
According to page 14 of the Owners Manual...

"12. Digital Audio Output
This output will automatically send Dolby Digital audio from digital channels and IEEE 1394 devices to a digitial Audio/Video receiver. Connect this output to the A/V receiver's coaxial digital audio input. This output will automatically turn off when viewing an analog channel or device. Use Monitor Output Audio 2 to send analog sound to your A/V Receiver".

I havn't hooked this up as I use the Digital optical from my Cablebox and the Digital Coax from my DVD.

Thanks, Andy. Interesting that it is not optical. I will be using over the air and cable. Can't get all the networks in HDTV on just one so I'll have to mix and match. I only have one coax digital audio input. Rest are optical. I hope my cable provider's boxes have an optical output or I'll have to figure something else out including switching cables. This will make my wife happy. She has enough problems with remotes.

millerwill

10-22-04, 02:15 PM

krichey: Though it is a bit off topic, I wonder if you could compare the PQ (over DVI and HDMI, respectively) you observed for the 1910 and 2910.

Snowbum

10-22-04, 02:29 PM

Originally posted by boristhedog
I have noticed the "flickering" as well. It seems to only be between HD<->SD channels, or between HD channels of different format 720p->1080i etc. I asked the service tech about this and he said it was the "source" doing it (in our case Directv). But you say the 525 did not do this at all....hmmm, that makes me think it IS a problem.

I also see the "snow" particles using the DVI->HDMI. I'm probably going to switch back to compnent.

Is that flickering when changing from HD<>SD channels normal for all DLPs or is it specific to Mitsubishi sets?

Did you decide to live with the "white sparkles" or have you talked to someone about that as well?

Is anyone else experiencing these issues? Don't forget to comment on the red line issue as well. This is all driving me crazy.

2left

10-22-04, 02:39 PM

Just some comments that might be of interest. I had a deal from GG's for a free Zenith DVB-318 with purchase of my 62725, but after reading that the Zenith's component upscaling and DVI=>HDMI might not work, I swapped out for a JVC DR-M10SL DVD recorder. It works great for transferring old VHS tapes, and since it can record on DVD-RAM, I can "time-slip" view like with a Tivo.

Some notes on recording from the Mits rear analog output:

1. You can record HD channels at true 16:9. Love that. Even though not at HD resolution, recordings of HD channels look MUCH better than recordings of SD channels.

2. Recordings of SD channels on the DVD recorder using direct cable tv input look better than of SD channels from the Mits' analog output.

3. Time-slip viewing - watching the beginning of a show while it is still recording - will not work for me when recording off the Mits rear output. The Mits main tuner needs to be on the cable input. When I switch the main tuner to watch recorded material off the DVD recorder, the Mits stops sending a signal to the DVD recorder. Anyone know of a solution?

4. Recordings on the DVD-recorder look much better than anything on S-VHS.

5. Why didn't Mits put a component, or at least S-video, analog output instead of composite?

UMD_Terp

10-22-04, 02:49 PM

Originally posted by Snowbum

Is anyone else experiencing these issues? Don't forget to comment on the red line issue as well. This is all driving me crazy.

I saw those red lines once... it was on a SD channel from the internal analog tuner. If it is an issue, I think it is independent of the input source... I only saw them once... and that is it.

boristhedog

10-22-04, 03:25 PM

Originally posted by Snowbum
Is that flickering when changing from HD<>SD channels normal for all DLPs or is it specific to Mitsubishi sets?
Don't know, it's on my list of issues I'm trying to get answers from Mits (expecting a return call in the next day or so). This issue really bugs me. I'm a big channel-changer since I can't tolerate commercials. It's extremely annoying. I expect the response to be "it's normal"...

Originally posted by Snowbum
Did you decide to live with the "white sparkles" or have you talked to someone about that as well?

I'm living with it for now, but I don't notice it unless I look for it. It's also on my list of "issues".

Originally posted by Snowbum
Is anyone else experiencing these issues? Don't forget to comment on the red line issue as well. This is all driving me crazy.

I have not noticed the "red line"

Originally posted by Snowbum
Grant it these issues are all somewhat trivial but not tolerable given the pricepoint of this TV.

I agree 100%. I feel like I've (we've) paid a lot of $$$ to be the hardware/software test group for Mitsubishi. I think we all (mostly) agree that the (HD) PQ of this set is great, but for me, the other "usability" features of a TV are really important too. Honestly, I couldn't tell a "white crush" from an Orange Crush, but I know the picture looks great (except for the "green" tint on somethings). I have not seen enough other HDTV's (certainly not in my home) to be able to compare. IMO it's (virtually) impossible to really compare in an electronics store showroom. I bought this TV based on reading reviews (mostly from avsforum) and realized there were issues with "tilt" and some things fixed with the latest sw. That's one reason I waited for the 62725. I've had the "tilt" fixed, I have the latest software...but there's still other things that bug me.

I realize nothing's perfect, but I'm seriously considering returning this thing (1 week left on 30 day return policy) and trying something else (not sure what though). At this point, I don't feel like I'm getting my $ worth. Just my $0.02. So, can someone talk me off the ledge....

UMD_Terp

10-22-04, 03:34 PM

I just want them to fix the bright spot... in all fairness, you can't make it out when content is displayed, but some very dark content is affected by it. Either way, it should be taken care of. Mitsubishi is still inverstigating the issue last I heard.

subwoofer

10-22-04, 03:48 PM

quick question to all Mits DLP owners:

Do you wish your TV was thinner? It appears that the Mits DLP tvs are about 18" deep when Sammy or other brands are only 13" or 15" deep for the same size. Does this cause a problem with your home setup or does it not matter.

I'm just trying to get a feel for the size of these tvs and if they are really that big when you bring them into your tv room.

Benji

10-22-04, 03:53 PM

I had a 5 year old Mits 65" CRT TV that was twice as deep as the DLP. So in my opinion, the TV takes up very little space.

Snowbum

10-22-04, 03:53 PM

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
I just want them to fix the bright spot... in all fairness, you can't make it out when content is displayed, but some very dark content is affected by it. Either way, it should be taken care of. Mitsubishi is still inverstigating the issue last I heard.

Have you experienced the red lines, white sparkles, and random flicker on the 725 UMD_Terp? I feel like freaking Lucky Charms leprechaun mentioning all of this.

Could someone tell me what the latest firmware version for the 62725 is and what issues it supposedly corrects? I know, I know, I could search for four hours but I am being lazy. Give a frustrated member a little slack on this one. :mad:

UMD_Terp

10-22-04, 04:13 PM

As far as I know, .03 is the latest firmware rev. I see no flicker when changing channels, but I am using a cablecard and the internal digital and analog tuners. I do notice with my Xbox that it starts up in 480i and then when a game is either 720p or 480p, the screen does flicker for a split second to resync up to the new signal. This is Xbox over component connection. It only does this when the screen resolution switches at the beginning.. never afterwards. I saw the red lines maybe once on an SD channel using the internal tuner... never saw them again after that.

neoikon

10-22-04, 04:25 PM

Originally posted by millerwill
krichey: Though it is a bit off topic, I wonder if you could compare the PQ (over DVI and HDMI, respectively) you observed for the 1910 and 2910.

Perhaps I'm a bit naive, but how better is the picture quality of a DVD over DVI compared to component? Since DVD technology are on the lower end of the definition spectrum (480p), what all do you really gain out of a more expensive DVD player that handles DVI or HDMI rather than standard component? It seems like overkill... just like hooking up rabbit ears using HDMI would be unnecessary (though not to that extreme). Am I missing something? However, if DVDs were all 720p or 1080i, I could definitely see justifying it due to the added information going across the cable. I personally have gotten a GREAT picture using quality component cables. Of course, if this Mitsubishi was a plasma hanging on a wall, I could see the benefit of a single HDMI cable going to it... rather than multiple optical cables, component cables, etc. But this has more to do with less cables rather than picture quality.

I guess the short of my question is what kind of picture difference do you get with DVI/HDMI over component on this Mitsubishi?

ewolf72

10-22-04, 04:31 PM

Well, I finally got a chance to stop by the local local HH Gregg to see the 725 on display. Like the 525, I'm still fairly impressed by the picture. While it seems a bit dim (and lacked proper blue in comparison to the other sets), it is a very slick set and has a bunch of inputs (which is great!)

The only unfortunate part of my 725 viewing was the screen. Unfortunately, to me, the 725 looks to have nearly as much glare as the 525 has. On dark scenes, just like with the 525, I could see the store aisles and store windows which were behind me reflected clearly in the screen.

In talking with a sales guy about it (who pretty much agreed with my observation), he suggested that I remove the screen and use a $49 kit from Mitsubishi to just put a blank frame on the set and not use its reflective (and protective) screen.

Well, I've lurked around AVS for a while and have heard of others suggesting just to remove the reflective screen. Now that this frame kit is out, I'm a bit curious about the whole thing.

Does this $49 kit really exist now? Anyone have a part number? Has anyone used it? By removing this reflective screen, is the real screen underneath there any -less- protected than say a Samsung or JVC?

Thanks for any info!

memnoch

10-22-04, 04:55 PM

Originally posted by subwoofer
quick question to all Mits DLP owners:

Do you wish your TV was thinner? It appears that the Mits DLP tvs are about 18" deep when Sammy or other brands are only 13" or 15" deep for the same size. Does this cause a problem with your home setup or does it not matter.

I'm just trying to get a feel for the size of these tvs and if they are really that big when you bring them into your tv room.
indeed the TV is deeper. i used to be able to place a reasonable-size center speaker in front of a Samsung HLM507W with sufficient room for both on a stand. with the Mitsu, there's no space at all -- maybe except for those Bose cube satellites.

i've had the TV for a week now. can't say i'm wowed yet but there's definitely improvement over my old Samsung DLP. no clay faces!!
i'm not sure about the tilt issue... i find that the lower right of my screen is "skewed" a little bit. the other corners though look perfect... if it's tilt then i should see proportion on each corner, right? i can't get 1:1 mapping on a 720p VGA PC connection either. there's too much overscan i could barely see the Start menu bar. i have to set the format to Reduce2. overscan from DVE shows about 5% on the bottom and 3% for the rest.
all in all, this TV is a keeper. with outstanding PQ and great features it's a good value (i got it for 18% off). now i'm just happy i get to see HD in the living room, bedroom, and home theater.

htwaits

10-22-04, 04:58 PM

Originally posted by neoikon
Perhaps I'm a bit naive, but how better is the picture quality of a DVD over DVI compared to component?

DVD content is digital component is analog. If you use a component cable the digital DVD content must be converted to analog before it leaves the DVD player. That is an extra opportunity for errors to take place. Once the signal is in a DLP, LCD, or LCoS RPTV the analog version of the DVD must be converted back to digital. That is another opportunity for errors to be introduced on top of the first batch of errors.

In the case of the Mitsubishi DLP sets they convert all inputs to analog, process the image, and then convert back to digital so an up-scaling DVD player probably isn't an advantage.

Since DVD technology are on the lower end of the definition spectrum (480p), what all do you really gain out of a more expensive DVD player that handles DVI or HDMI rather than standard component?

All DVD material must be de-interlaced and scaled to be viewed on a HDTV. What you want to do is match the TV and the best DVD player for that TV.

Up-scaling DVD players (HDMI/DVI) start at about $200. If you buy a progressive DVD player for less than that the chances are that the component output won't be very good either.

It seems like overkill... just like hooking up rabbit ears using HDMI would be unnecessary (though not to that extreme).

If you want to watch DVD material in it's native 480i format with out any de-interlacing or scaling then you just about have to stick with a direct view 4x3 CRT TV set.

I guess the short of my question is what kind of picture difference do you get with DVI/HDMI over component on this Mitsubishi?

Probably not much because the Mits will convert everything to analog before it scales the image to the MItsubishi native (1280x720) resolution. Then, of course, the image has to be converted back to digital before it can be displayed.

GizmoSprocket

10-22-04, 04:58 PM

Originally posted by pjr
Are there some 62725 owners who are using their HDMI input with no PQ problems?

No issues here with a Dish 811 via DVI-D to HDMI 6" cable...

That is- the issues seen are more with the source than the cable media.

neoikon

10-22-04, 05:15 PM

Originally posted by memnoch
i can't get 1:1 mapping on a 720p VGA PC connection either. there's too much overscan i could barely see the Start menu bar. i have to set the format to Reduce2. overscan from DVE shows about 5% on the bottom and 3% for the rest.

Try installing PowerStrip and use the timings detailed in the thread below. You should be able to get a great 1x1 mapping with this set.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4453035#post4453035

Good article:
http://www.digiupdate.com/T001_Testing_Digital_Displays.html

rpr

10-22-04, 07:37 PM

Been a while since I contributed to this thread. Just thought I would let you all know that I am extremely happy with my 52725. Just some minor tweaks in the standard TV menu were all that were needed. I have not had to access anything in the Service Menu, althugh I am considering it for some extremely minor geometry issues (not noticeable to anyone but me).

My only frustration is understanding the way the TV presents the picture format. Some D* HD channels come through with black bars on the top, bottom and sides, in 16:9, but just shrunk. What's the point of that?

Also, I have some DVDs that are 2.35:1 format that I have to use 480p Expand to get it to keep the original ratio (i.e.: Armageddon Special Edition) - 480p Standard stretches it so everyone is short and fat with huge black bars on the top and bottom; while other DVDs that are 2.35:1 format present fine in 480p Standard (i.e.: The Day After Tomorrow). What am I missing?

scpanel

10-22-04, 07:39 PM

Are there some 62725 owners who are using their HDMI input with no PQ problems?

I too have a DISH 921 using HDMI and picture is great.

scpanel

10-22-04, 07:42 PM

rpr,

What DVD player are you using?

boristhedog

10-22-04, 09:16 PM

Originally posted by Snowbum
Is that flickering when changing from HD<>SD channels normal for all DLPs or is it specific to Mitsubishi sets?

OK, I've finally had a few minutes to experiment with the "flickering" issue. Here's the deal.....I had my Samsung TS360 HD D* reciever set to output "native" mode, meaning output what the source is sending and let the TV do the scaling to it's native resoution (720p). I purposely did this since I've read so many times to let the TV do the upscale/downscale.

Well, this is the cause of the "flickering". If I set the Samsung 360 to output 720p, I get no flickering changing between SD-HD-SD etc. Make sense right? Everything is scaled to 720p by the Samsung...so no conversion or scaling by the Mits. I'm leaving it like this for now since the "flickering" makes me want to pull my hair out. Can't tell right now if there's a difference in PQ.

So that's solves the problem for now, but I still think the Mits should handle the scaling a little more gracefully.

Also, I've been switching back and forth between HDMI and component inputs for the Samsung......I'm leaning towards the component. My "snow dots" seemed to have gone away so maybe it's a cable-fit problem.

htwaits

10-22-04, 09:46 PM

I have a Motorola 6200 outputting 720p to the HDMI port on my HLP5063 and there is no problem going from analog cable channels to digital channels.

Snowbum

10-22-04, 11:06 PM

Originally posted by htwaits

I guess the short of my question is what kind of picture difference do you get with DVI/HDMI over component on this Mitsubishi?

Probably not much because the Mits will convert everything to analog before it scales the image to the MItsubishi native (1280x720) resolution. Then, of course, the image has to be converted back to digital before it can be displayed.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Why does the Mits convert all signals to analog and then back to digital? If you have a piece of equipment connected via the HDMI port what since does it make for the Mits to convert from digital to analog and then back to digital again? Am I correct in assuming this is the only DLP that does this? How much of a loss in PQ is suffered by this type of design?

Originally posted by neoikon
Perhaps I'm a bit naive, but how better is the picture quality of a DVD over DVI compared to component?

DVD content is digital component is analog. If you use a component cable the digital DVD content must be converted to analog before it leaves the DVD player. That is an extra opportunity for errors to take place. Once the signal is in a DLP, LCD, or LCoS RPTV the analog version of the DVD must be converted back to digital. That is another opportunity for errors to be introduced on top of the first batch of errors.

In the case of the Mitsubishi DLP sets they convert all inputs to analog, process the image, and then convert back to digital so an up-scaling DVD player probably isn't an advantage.

In the case of a Mits DLP this doesn't really apply right? I mean if your DVD player is connected via component to a Mits DLP and the DVD has to convert the DVD signal to analog before outputting it to the Mits the Mits should then only have to convert it back to digital. Is it better for the Mits to receive the signal in digital format from the DVD and then convert it to analog and then back to Digital again? Or does PQ suffer less if the Mits receives the signal in analog format and then just converts it to digital?

Am I correct in thinking that the HDMI port on the Mits should really be viewed as more of a compatability feature, i.e., being able to connect devices that only have DVI or HDMI ports, than an actual digital port if it just converts the signal to analog and then back to digital again?

rpr

10-22-04, 11:08 PM

Originally posted by scpanel
rpr,

What DVD player are you using?
scpanel: Its a Sony DVP-NC655P.

I also may have spoken too soon about this 52725 only needing slight tweaks from the main menu. The more I watch the set, the more I get the feeling that I must be experiencing what I have heard others refer to as "green push". Certain things that I am almost certain should not be green...are extremely green (i.e. light from beneath a doorway, the WalMart smiley face thing's laser when he zaps the price labels to lower the price, etc.). Things depicted in green seem by far to be the most vibrant color on the set. It's not everything (which could simply be adjusted with the Tint slider - I already have this one notch towards the red, away from the green), only certain objects under certain lighting conditions.

I hope that makes sense. Is this something that can be fixed, and if so, how? :confused: Tx for any feedback.

Snowbum

10-22-04, 11:17 PM

Originally posted by boristhedog
OK, I've finally had a few minutes to experiment with the "flickering" issue. Here's the deal.....I had my Samsung TS360 HD D* reciever set to output "native" mode, meaning output what the source is sending and let the TV do the scaling to it's native resoution (720p). I purposely did this since I've read so many times to let the TV do the upscale/downscale.

Well, this is the cause of the "flickering". If I set the Samsung 360 to output 720p, I get no flickering changing between SD-HD-SD etc. Make sense right? Everything is scaled to 720p by the Samsung...so no conversion or scaling by the Mits. I'm leaving it like this for now since the "flickering" makes me want to pull my hair out. Can't tell right now if there's a difference in PQ.

So that's solves the problem for now, but I still think the Mits should handle the scaling a little more gracefully.

Excellent work! Is there any advantage to setting the Samsung 360 DirecTV receiver to output 720 vs. using native mode(other than the obvious answer that the flicering stops)?
Originally posted by boristhedog

Also, I've been switching back and forth between HDMI and component inputs for the Samsung......I'm leaning towards the component. My "snow dots" seemed to have gone away so maybe it's a cable-fit problem.

Do you mean that the "white sparkles" have gone away from all of the switching even on the HDMI port now? The cable seems to be securely connected to my HDMI port. As I mentioned before I did not experience this issue on my 62525 set.

scpanel

10-22-04, 11:17 PM

rpr,

Try the following perfect color settings:
Magenta 53
Red 43
Yellow 43
Green 35
Cayan 31
Blue 44

see if that helps

htwaits

10-22-04, 11:54 PM

Originally posted by Snowbum
Why does the Mits convert all signals to analog and then back to digital?

Maybe because they already have highly developed analog technology and haven't developed the equivalent quality in pure digital processing.

Am I correct in assuming this is the only DLP that does this?

RCA did the same thing with their 2003 DLP models. They cut costs even further by not allowing 720p input from any external device even though they were building a 720p micro device. RCA's 2004 models are reported to accept 720p input, but I don't know for sure what they do with the signal after it arrives.

Or does PQ suffer less if the Mits receives the signal in analog format and then just converts it to digital?

If I owned a Mits that's what I would expect. I would use a good progressive scan DVD player.

Am I correct in thinking that the HDMI port on the Mits should really be viewed as more of a compatability feature, i.e., being able to connect devices that only have DVI or HDMI ports, than an actual digital port if it just converts the signal to analog and then back to digital again? [/B]

That's my theory but I include HDCP compatibility as another reason.

Still the Mits has very good PQ and some of the problems being reported like green push should be fixable with an ISF calibration or by clever AVS members.