Thanks UMD_Terp for your quick reply! Between the service menu and the mechanical adjustment (front allen screw), my screen geometry is nearly perfect now. And the World Series is fanatastic in HD!

The manual says that MITS only guarantees that "the percentage of properly functioning pixels will be not less than 99.99% of all pixels". If my math is right, then 9 pixels is the acceptable limit. I wonder if anyone has had ANY bad pixels - this seems to not be a problem with DLP.

As sensitive as I am to rainbows, they aren't bothering me much at all. I wonder how many RPMs this color wheel spins at?

If you're on the fence about this HDTV, get off and buy it! It truly has an amazing picture. Ok, I lived with a 27" CRT until now, but I still think I know excellent PQ when I see it.

Originally posted by John Schlarb
I wonder if anyone has had ANY bad pixels - this seems to not be a problem with DLP.

Yes they have, but it's not common and so far very rare after the set is in use.

If a mirror is stuck in the off position it's black. If it's stuck on it's white.

Samsung has replaced the board or light engine for all their stuck mirrors that I've read about in this forum. I don't know what their formal policy is exactly, but it's fewer stuck mirrors than Mitsubishi. It only takes one mirror that is stuck "on" in the center region of the screen for repair.

Originally posted by htwaits
There don't seem to be any load specs for your stand at the web site. Were there any packed with the stand? The 52" Mits plus my other equipment comes to 185 lbs.

Is there an option for casters?

If I remember correctly, the top shelf is rated to 300 lbs., but I wouldn't swear to it. I'll try to remember to check tomorrow when I get home...I am out of town right now. If you want to make sure I remember, PM me. :)

I don't know of any option for casters....sorry....

Randy

I tried taking several pictures but so far they have not come out very well to show the red outlines, but I will keep trying today.

It seems to blur when you take a picture of it and you cant see it in the image.

Since I've read in this forum that our Mits dlp's convert to analog via the hdmi port, Is it true that a good progressive scan player via component will be as good or possibly better than using an upscaling player through the hdmi port??


The reason I ask is that I'm considering the denon 3910 dvd player but now the 2900 can be had for almost half the price. If the 3910 doesn't really offer improved video throught the Mits, then getting the 2900 seems to make sense.


BTW,
If you own the 2900, are you satisfied with it's redbook cd performance?

Thanks
Craig

Check this out though, thjis test pattern looks distorted only on the bottom quarter of the screen and there are black lines between some of the white rectangles.

And this

cmr15

I am in the same boat and looking at all the DVD options with this set. I am still using the Panny XP30 that rated high in the DVD benchmark tests and am struggling to justify spending the dollars on a 3910.

Now that I put up a white screen, I am wondering if some of this is dirty mirrors? I do see small specs that were not there before from what I remember. Maybe it is the internal fans blowing some dust from within...

I now have hte 2910, and I am EXTREMELY satisfied. When the Mitsu arrived I had a Sony 480P, then tried the 1910, and now the 2910. To my amateurish eye, the picture seems very near HD.

Are you using component or HDMI?

htwaits,

I believe Mits has a statement in the end of the users manual stating that it guarantees 99.99% of all pixels from being free of defects. On one or two occasions, I have seen a stuck pixel, usually white, but clears away once I change the channel or input source.

Overall, after installing the .03 software update, I have been very happy with this set. I watched Van Helsing last night and the black levels were good for a disc that has a decent, but not great, transfer.

Well, I am very close to becoming a non owner of this set, I had a reset problem again this morning after I took those pictures where none of the front panel buttons nor the remote would respond. All these things have to be related somehow.

Maybe its some overdrive problem in the video circuitry is causing the blurriness and the tv to lockup. Any other thoughts? I am running out of things to try. I will be calling Mits tomorow unless I return it later today when I go back to the store.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by cmr15
[B] Since I've read in this forum that our Mits dlp's convert to analog via the hdmi port.

I also wonder if that happens with the Samsungs HLP with HDMI

Has anyone tried the iscan HD with the mits? Is the iscan a better scaler?

Originally posted by scpanel
Well, I am very close to becoming a non owner of this set, I had a reset problem again this morning after I took those pictures where none of the front panel buttons nor the remote would respond. All these things have to be related somehow.

Maybe its some overdrive problem in the video circuitry is causing the blurriness and the tv to lockup. Any other thoughts? I am running out of things to try. I will be calling Mits tomorow unless I return it later today when I go back to the store.

unless you are up against a hard date to return the thing, I would at least contact Mitsubishi and tell them about this distortion. Can you get a pic of the entire screen... It's tough to make out and reference how the whole screen looks and is supposed to look. I've never seen anything like that. It almost seems like your distortion and the bright spot I have on mine could be somehow related. They seem to take up the same spot and amount of space... but for me, the screen in terms of everything else except color is completely uniform.

Here is a full picture, but hard to see the distortion at the bottom

here is another close of the full top to bottom from the center of the screen.

its just weird

You can really see it at the bottom in the last picture if you look closely; btw I took the player upstairs and tried it on a CRT set and the boxes are uniform and no distortion just to make sure.

Have you tried another input... maybe it is a problem with that input. Or do you see this on all of them?

This is using component inputs. The DVD playyer does not have an HDMI or a DVI output. I moved my DISH 921 off the HDMI as the picture quality deteriorated, and it looks much better using component.

I am on my way back to the store this morning, and may come home with a plasma or who knows what!

So is this visible on the internal test patterns as well? I guess it would be difficult to find on those. You can try moving the DVD player to another component input just to see if you see the same exact thing. That may help narrow it down.

For those interested, i have connected my 2910 by HDMI with no problems at all.

Well, I just got back and they are bringing a new one this afternoon from a new batch, so hopefully it will have the latest software. I will let you know what happens next.

First of all I would like to thank all the folks for posting in this forum. I have been researching a HDTV since July and was planning on getting a Sammy HLP 5674 until I seen the Mit 52525. I resisted because of the glare then succumbed to the 725 series. What a beut!

I am having significant compatibility issues with Charter Cables Digital Cable box. It has come to my attention that closed caption is not available on component 1,2 and DTV, Mit Manual P 68. I am using input 1 for my 480P DVD player and activating the Closed Caption on the DVD player. I can pickup Local HD stations with Ant1 input and CC is no problem. CC is no problem with non HD stations using Ant 2 via cable.

I have tried the fire wire input of the Motorola Cable box receiver and after the auto setup I only get the blue screen. I have the same issue with my Panasonic camcorder, even though I can function the camcorder through the Mit . Just no audio or video only blue screen.

The bottom line is I have two hearing impaired Children and have always used Closed Captioning.

Charters Cable Box don't do closed Captioning.

I thought the ADA laws of 1990 covered closed captioning. I guess deaf folks have to settle for non hdtv.

Any Ideas on solving this dilemma. I sure love this TV but am thinking about sending it back. Thanks

Originally posted by htwaits
There don't seem to be any load specs for your stand at the web site. Were there any packed with the stand? The 52" Mits plus my other equipment comes to 185 lbs.

Is there an option for casters?

I actually remembered to look this up, and the top shelf is rated to 240 lbs., with the second and third rated to 65 lbs., each.

Hope that helps....
Randy

Jeteye

Why not move to DISH or Direct TV?

I have heard issues with the firewire connections, have you made sure that input 3 is mapped in Netcommand? Do the L/R and svideo/composite from the front panel work?

Has anyone had any problems with their digital tuner on the 725? I received my tv about a month ago and everything worked fine. My basic cable picks up hbo, showtime, starz, and cinemax. It also picked up cbs and nbc in HD.
I recently upgraded my firmware to the newest version and two days later my digital tuner does not seem to be working. Not only am I not receiving my digital channels through my cable line, but my outside antenna which has worked for 2 weeks is now not tuning in to the digital channels. I'm receiving local broadcasting over the air, but it will no longer pick up the local HD.
Has anyone else had this problem recently? Thanks

Regarding those who have looked at the diagrams for the HDMI input and concluded that there is d/a conversion and then a/d. Is there a chance that if you are feeding in a native rate digital signal that it would just pass through rather than being converted to analog? Also, has anyone tried contacting Mits to ask about these conversions and if and when they plan to have an all digital route?

Does anyone have a HD direct TV set up?
IF so is there a Closed Caption option on the HD receiver?

Originally posted by Jeteye
Does anyone have a HD direct TV set up?
IF so is there a Closed Caption option on the HD receiver?

Yes it does. I have the Samsung SIR-TS360 Directv HD receiver.

I have DISH 921 HD DVR setup and it has a host of closed caption options

Originally posted by cmr15
Since I've read in this forum that our Mits dlp's convert to analog via the hdmi port, Is it true that a good progressive scan player via component will be as good or possibly better than using an upscaling player through the hdmi port??


The reason I ask is that I'm considering the denon 3910 dvd player but now the 2900 can be had for almost half the price. If the 3910 doesn't really offer improved video throught the Mits, then getting the 2900 seems to make sense.


BTW,
If you own the 2900, are you satisfied with it's redbook cd performance?

Thanks
Craig

CMR15 I sent you a private message. Mac3150

mac 3150

check your pm

craig

Hello,
Hi, I just tried the reset button on my 62725 and the green light is fast blinking. The manual says that it is supposed to stop within a minute and it's been 5 minutes now. Should I unplug the set, wait and plug in?
Thx
Chris

it should stop blinking

Did yours just freeze while watching TV?

Originally posted by cjut01
Hello,
Hi, I just tried the reset button on my 62725 and the green light is fast blinking. The manual says that it is supposed to stop within a minute and it's been 5 minutes now. Should I unplug the set, wait and plug in?
Thx
Chris

Mine did that too when I tried the reset for the first time (for no reason, just to try it). So, I just reset it again and it "came back to life". Another weird feature I guess....

Thx, OK now, I had to power cycle the set, and everything is fine. I was actually debugging a problem with my standard HD picture which somehow was stretched so I tried resetting the TV to clear it. Actually it was probably the cable box causing the problem. My TV did not just freeze on it's own. Have had zero problems to date save for this curious one.
Thanks!!
Chris

A few of my CableCARD channels come in poorly. They pixellate to the point where it's unwatchable. When I tune to these channels the set locks up. Remote doesn't work, can't do anything. I need to reset the tv to make it work again. Sometimes this resets all my video and Perfect Color settings back to default, so it's a pain. I wonder if your problem could be signal related. Also, I decided not to ask for the version .03 firmware because others have noted that it seems to induce tuner problems.

Well, I am going to try another set and it should be here this afternoon and I will take it from there. Are these HD channels or SD that are pixellating? I have noticed it on the HD channels, but when mine freezes I am usually on an SD channel.

But I think mine has something to do with the video problems I am having.

Yes, the lockups only happen on pixellating SD channels.

I wonder if its something in the video circuitry that when the tuner pixellates it causes the freezing? The reason is I am not using a cable card and am having this freezing problem too. Since I have noticed this distortion in the video, and you mention pixellating channels I wonder if its something common in the video circuitry that might be causing them to freeze.

Yes, I had already come to the conclusion that the Mits tuner is causing the lock up, and that the problem is unrelated to the CableCARD.

well, my new one ought to be here any minute and I will let you know what software version it has. What is ironic here is I didnt have a reset problem until friday, when I noticed this picture distortion problem

How do you tell what software/firmware version you have? I heard the version number in the main memus is not representative of the firmware version.

The software version in my main menu says 003, and my build date is August 2004. I have had a few reset issues. Is there a later firmware version out there, or do I need to get my true firmware version out of the Service Menu before determining that?

You have version .03. I think the Service Menu will say so also. It was just speculation on my part that this number doesn't tell you the whole story. If the reset is caused by pixellating SD channels then no firmware currently available will fix it as all versions appear to have this problem, my .02 and scpanel's .03 as examples. Version .03 also seems to be causing OTA reception problems for some people. I'll stick with this .02 until this lockup problem is fixed in a future firmware upgrade (hopefully).

Just got it and am setting it up and the service menu shows version .02. Looks like no real tilt probs either other than the lower right very slightly higher.

Didn't your previous set have version .03? I was under the assumption that all new sets were shipping with .03.

no it was .02 also, this must still be from the first batch

colors are real different too, I used umr's settings for now but I will need to play with them as it gets some hours on it. I also noticed what must be a piece of dirt in the lower left corner, but other than that so far so good.

Originally posted by delar
If the reset is caused by pixellating SD channels then no firmware currently available will fix it as all versions appear to have this problem.
Sounds like my "reset" problem might be different. My problem is the TV locks up instantaneously when trying to turn it on (I don't get a picture to display before it locks up). Turning it back off and then on again clears it up.

Anybody else has this with version .03? Any fix?

I noticed that in the test patterns this set has less blooming than my previous set but its still there and contrast is now in the 25-30 range for now.

Sounds like my "reset" problem might be different. My problem is the TV locks up instantaneously when trying to turn it on (I don't get a picture to display before it locks up). Turning it back off and then on again clears it up.

It sure sounds different than the problem I had, but I will keep you posted as the new set as it only has 2 hours on it so far!

Finally pulled the trigger on a 62725 and recieve it yesterday. No regrets, glad I didn't wait any longer. Currently I'm using a PS2 as the DVD player so I really need to upgrade. Is anyone using HDMI output DVD players with this set? What brand/model. I'm considering the Denon 2910 but a lot of people seem to be waiting for blueray or HD-DVD but I watch all my movies from Netflicks or Blockbuster so I figure it will be atleast 5 years till they begin stocking them. So what to buy know?

Denon should be good.

Since the HDMI input converts to analog first and I want to keep conversions to a minimum, I want to know if the component inputs will accept the 720p NR of the set.

Originally posted by npc2396
I'm considering the Denon 2910 but a lot of people seem to be waiting for blueray or HD-DVD but I watch all my movies from Netflicks or Blockbuster so I figure it will be atleast 5 years till they begin stocking them. So what to buy know?

I got a question: What good will it do to have HD-DVDs when there won't be that many made? I can't see the market dumping DVDs already

Originally posted by Mac3150
CMR15 I sent you a private message. Mac3150

Could you send me a copy of the private message or just post your response in the forum? I have the same questions he does about these issues.

I am very disappointed over the glare from the screen on the 52725. I can't believe I paid a few hundred dollars extra for a screen that still has an amazing amount of glare. It really is unwatchable in the daytime. I'm sure I'll wind up taking off the screen that I paid for.

What is Mitsubishi thinking? Most of us do watch TV in places other than caves. If I knew it had to be so dark, I would have bought another front projector.

Well so far so good no resets yet.

I am with snowbum on the DVD player with this set, please let me know too cmr15.

Originally posted by zzzzdoc
I am very disappointed over the glare from the screen on the 52725. I can't believe I paid a few hundred dollars extra for a screen that still has an amazing amount of glare. It really is unwatchable in the daytime. I'm sure I'll wind up taking off the screen that I paid for.

What is Mitsubishi thinking? Most of us do watch TV in places other than caves. If I knew it had to be so dark, I would have bought another front projector.

Interesting. This is definately the main reason I'm holding off on getting a DLP tv. Maybe Sammy will have something nice to offer in the upcoming months.

Originally posted by zzzzdoc
I am very disappointed over the glare from the screen on the 52725. I can't believe I paid a few hundred dollars extra for a screen that still has an amazing amount of glare. It really is unwatchable in the daytime. I'm sure I'll wind up taking off the screen that I paid for.

What is Mitsubishi thinking? Most of us do watch TV in places other than caves. If I knew it had to be so dark, I would have bought another front projector.


I have to say that I am very confused by all of you that have issues with the glare on the 725 series.

I have been in somewhat of a unique position to evaluate the glare issue on both the 525 and 725 series units. My viewing room is more like a sun room. It is an addition that we built onto our house that includes two fairly large sky lights, a large bay window on the left side of the room, a large cut out so that you view the room opposite the right wall, and an entrance to our enclosed deck via sliding doors in the rear of the room. Since we have recently moved into this house we have not purchased any type of blinds for the sky lights or the sliding door. The only window that currently has blinds is the bay window. The TV is located in the front of the room opposite the entrance to the deck. Needless to say this room gets a LOT of light.

I had the 62525 for about one month before exchanging it for the 62725. The reflections on the 525 during the day was absolutely horrible. I was ecstatic when I heard that Mits was coming out with a 725 with a protective screen with less glare. I rushed out to my local Tweeter and negotiated a better price for the 62725 than I had originally paid for the 62525 at Best Buy (send me a PM if you want to know the price). I thought the TV would never arrive. After about three weeks the delivery guys were knocking on my door with a brand new 62" TV in hand. No sooner than they sat in on my stand I signed the delivery slip, said thanks, and immediately escorted them to the door. I immediately noticed a tremendous difference in the amount of reduced glare with this new set. Within five minutes I had everything connected and was able to fire it up. Again, I was blown away at how muted the glare is. Admittedly, compared to the other sets like the Samsungs there is definitely very visible glare. However, compared to the 525 series the glare is much less on the 725 sets.

I agree with you when you say Mits must have been out of there minds when they put such a horrible protective screen on the 525 series. I bought this unit since I really like the PQ and intended on removing the protective screen.

IMO the glare on this set is greatly reduced. As I mentioned above, short of plugging in this TV in the middle of a field on a bright, sunny day, you would be hard pressed to find a room with more sunlight than mine.

There is still a small amount of glare on my 52725 and I do not know how much glare would have been on the 52525 but I can watch the TV in the middle of the day with the sun coming in the window behind the couch I am sitting on. Watching the Pats-Jets game yesterday was awesome!

My previous TV was a Mitsubishi Rear Projection that had so much glare that watching anything in the afternoon with or without sun was impossible.

Originally posted by zzzzdoc
I am very disappointed over the glare from the screen on the 52725. I can't believe I paid a few hundred dollars extra for a screen that still has an amazing amount of glare. It really is unwatchable in the daytime. I'm sure I'll wind up taking off the screen that I paid for.

What is Mitsubishi thinking? Most of us do watch TV in places other than caves. If I knew it had to be so dark, I would have bought another front projector.

I agree...I thought the 725 screen would be more like the Samsungs.

I also have a real bright room with windows and an 8' slider right next to the TV as you can see by some of the pictures I have posted. The 525 would have never worked in this room, but the 725 does. Plus it has much less glare than a plasma would have and a comparable picture. And not to mention cheaper and no picture burn.

Originally posted by zzzzdoc
I am very disappointed over the glare from the screen on the 52725. I can't believe I paid a few hundred dollars extra for a screen that still has an amazing amount of glare. It really is unwatchable in the daytime. I'm sure I'll wind up taking off the screen that I paid for.

What is Mitsubishi thinking? Most of us do watch TV in places other than caves. If I knew it had to be so dark, I would have bought another front projector.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



I agree...I thought the 725 screen would be more like the Samsungs.


__________________

I posted earlier in this thread in regard to making the decision to spend the extra $200.00 for the 725. Seems to be mixed reaction with MORE folks encouraging the upgrade. However, if the 725 has the problem as well I may take the TV back and wait until Mitsu gets it together. My "cave" has too much light!

I have my salesperson (Sound Advice) contacting mitsu to see if Mitsu may in fact offer a different shield for my 525 and what looks to be the same issue with the 725. IF I find something positive I will post what I've found.

thanks again all!

Rich

You can remove it if you want and Mits is supposed to have a trim kit shortly, but I think the screen provides some help with PQ.

Originally posted by npc2396
Finally pulled the trigger on a 62725 and recieve it yesterday. No regrets, glad I didn't wait any longer. Currently I'm using a PS2 as the DVD player so I really need to upgrade. Is anyone using HDMI output DVD players with this set? What brand/model. I'm considering the Denon 2910 but a lot of people seem to be waiting for blueray or HD-DVD but I watch all my movies from Netflicks or Blockbuster so I figure it will be atleast 5 years till they begin stocking them. So what to buy know?

I hooked up my 52725 yesterday with a Denon 2910. 720P out via HDMI to the Mits. I was watching SW:ESB and it looked great. (edit put ST instead of SW, DOH may yoda have mercy)

I still have a lot of tweaking to do to the the set dialed in but I'm glad I didn't wait any longer for a Samsung TV that may or May not ever come out.

So long samsung you're marketshare should be dwindling rather fast now. :D

Was there a reason you chose the 2910 over the 3910 other than price? I am thinking of pairing this tv with the 3910, but its hard to jusify 1K for a dvd player.

I agree that the screen glare is a killer, on both the 525's and 725's. I have a Sammy hlp 6163 but an option to return for a swap (hopefully for a 6197 if they ever come out!) and have been hearing very good things about the Mits' PQ. Have been in to Magnolia HiFi several times (this past weekend most recently) looking at the 62525 and 62725 compared to the Sammy 6163, to see if I wanted to trade. I agree that the Mits picture is very slightly sharper (but also darker--too dark for me unless it can be tweked away), but the killer for me was the screen glare. I could see everything in the store reflected in both the 525's and 725's screen, while the 'mat' screen of the Samsung is remarkably good at avoiding this. And I don't watch tv (and DVD movies) in a totally darkened room--would be way too bright (and I often like to be doing some work, reading papers, etc., during a sports event). We have several table lamps (on dim) in the room, and this works just fine with the Sammy, but it is clear to me that the Mits' screen would be disaster in this environment. Obviously, though, this is not a problem for some people, so everybody just has to make a judgement--or better yet, try it out--to see how it works in their own situation. Anyway, that's my take on all on the Mits.

Originally posted by scpanel
Was there a reason you chose the 2910 over the 3910 other than price? I am thinking of pairing this tv with the 3910, but its hard to jusify 1K for a dvd player.

I am sorry but 1K for a DVD player is absurd! It better do the dishes and watch the kids for 1K. I know most of us in this forum are hardcore videophiles but how much better can the output on this Denon unit be compared to the $200 Samsung 841 that has a DVI output, does SACD, and DVD Audio?

I am also selling some component cables guaranteed to make the TV Image 3D like for only 6K if anyone is interested :D

Originally posted by Snowbum
I am sorry but 1K for a DVD player is absurd! It better do the dishes and watch the kids for 1K. I know most of us in this forum are hardcore videophiles but how much better can the output on this Denon unit be compared to the $200 Samsung 841 that has a DVI output, does SACD, and DVD Audio?
I would build a HTPC with $1K first. :) In fact, I'm already using my current PC with a dual boot and dual monitor setup.

Your example of the Samsung 841 is unfortunate. It and the Samsung 931 both use PC color space instead of Video color space. That results in crushed blacks and whites. There is hope that the Samsung 941 will be designed better, but don't count on it. The Denon 1910 and 2910 models, as far as I know, do not have that problem.

$1K for the Denon 3910 may not be a bad deal. Many people on this forum have several thousands invested into higher end audio, and a better DVD player, one that does audio as well as video, is a major concern when listening to the soundtrack is equally important to enjoying the movie experience. Contrary to this forum - video is not the end all or be all of the movie experience.

Along the same lines has anyone hooked up the Pioneer Elite DV-59AVi to the Mits 52/62x25 DLP set?

I'm ready to pull the trigger on the 62715 but I'm a little woried that it will be too big once i get it in my home.

I will be sitting about 12 feet from the TV from the main seating position.

I briefly had a Samsung HLP-5063 in my space but returned it for several reasons, one being the feeling that i shold go bigger.

I thought about the 52" but that seems too small.

Can anyone share thier feelings on this.

Also, at that distance, how does SD material look? I thought SD material on the 5063 looked pretty good. It was a lot better than iId anticipated.

I currenlty get my signal from DirecTV with the HD Tivo unit.

Thanks
Bruce

Hi,

I started to read this entire thread, but realized it would take me all day from beginning to end, so I apologize if this has already been discussed.

I am ready to take the plunge and have narrowed my choice between the Mits WD62525/62725 and the soon to be released Sammy 5674 (of course I will have to wait to see what the sammy looks like). I would just go ahead and purchase the Mits but have a couple of concerns:

One is this glare problem. I noticed it in the store compared to the Samsung models, but it really wasn’t that noticeable with the TV was on. However, my room will probably be brighter than the store (Tweeter). I read that you can take the protective screen off the 525 (and I assume the 725) to greatly reduce this glare and make them similar to the Sammys. If this is true, why bother to even purchase the 725. I have been trying to figure out what other options the 725 brings to the table besides the improved protective shield. I have no kids or pets, so can’t we just buy a 525 and remove the shield and enjoy a glareless picture as good as the 725?

My other concern is the digital to analog - back to digital conversion that occurs when using the HDMI connections. The tweeter rep told me that all their TVs were connected using component cables due to cost. Thus, I could not compare say a Sammy to Mits with the HDMI connections. The tweeter rep told me there is no loss in quality though. Has anyone compared other DLPs to the Mits using the HDMI connection?

I know I can use firewire to connect my computer and camcorder to the TV. Can you also use this connection as an HDTV source (say from a cable box)?

Thanks,

Unless your camcorder puts out an MPEG2 stream, you will not get video over firewire. Most digital camcorders record in DV format which is not compatible with MPEG2. The firewire ports on the TV will only handle MPEG2. You will still be able to control the camcorder through firewire, however.

Originally posted by Panzer948


I know I can use firewire to connect my computer and camcorder to the TV. Can you also use this connection as an HDTV source (say from a cable box)?


I've not been able to use the Firewire to get audio and video on the screen from my Panasonic camcorder. I don't believe it will work (I've been told on this forum that it lacks the MPEG conversion, as is noted in the post above). Is this just me, or is it true that this set won't allow Firewire video and audio from a camcorder? Can we get a definite answer?

Thanks

Originally posted by Snowbum
I have to say that I am very confused by all of you that have issues with the glare on the 725 series.
... (snip)
My viewing room is more like a sun room. It is an addition that we built onto our house that includes two fairly large sky lights, a large bay window on the left side of the room, a large cut out so that you view the room opposite the right wall, and an entrance to our enclosed deck via sliding doors in the rear of the room. Since we have recently moved into this house we have not purchased any type of blinds for the sky lights or the sliding door. The only window that currently has blinds is the bay window. The TV is located in the front of the room opposite the entrance to the deck. Needless to say this room gets a LOT of light.
Again, I was blown away at how muted the glare is. Admittedly, compared to the other sets like the Samsungs there is definitely very visible glare. However, compared to the 525 series the glare is much less on the 725 sets.
... (snip)
IMO the glare on this set is greatly reduced. As I mentioned above, short of plugging in this TV in the middle of a field on a bright, sunny day, you would be hard pressed to find a room with more sunlight than mine.

My set is facing about 5 windows, under a balcony surrounding a pool, with an eastern exposure, in South Florida. At least it isn't facing Due South, but it still gets tons of light. And the picture is unwatchable in daytime. Perhaps the 525 would have been worse, but the 725 is still unwatchable. Not sure it matters if it is totally unwatchable vs. monumentally unwatchable.

Great TV at night, but the $200 for the 725 screen is, IMHO, an insufficiently working rip-off. Mitsubishi should provide us with the trim kit for free.

Thats why I am still using a $200 Panny XP30 DVD player.

Can someone tell me their experiences with HTPC on this DLP set?

- Do you have to use powerstrip to do 1280x720 without overscan?

- Is the text at 1280x720 crisp and readable at 8' away?

- Does it full up the entire screen at 1280x720?

Thank you.

Originally posted by scpanel
Was there a reason you chose the 2910 over the 3910 other than price? I am thinking of pairing this tv with the 3910, but its hard to jusify 1K for a dvd player.

Price mainly, what's the difference, you get Denon-Link? Big Whoop and a backlit remote. I just got a 3805 which has the EL remote so I don't think I'll be needing the more expensive DVD remote. I may end up dumping all of them to a Harmony anyway.

BTW, there is a new phillips remote the RC9800i that I am waiting to take a look at, but its like $500. This Panny DVD player looks pretty darn good on the set at 480P, so I may wait awhile unless someone convinces me to switch.

FYI: I'm having my 62 replaced tomorrow, mainly because of the bright "spot" that UMP_Terp and I are experiencing. Plus, I've confirmed at least 2 missing screws. I was ready to bail out and try another model, but the PQ just kept sucking me back in....

Also, I was also told that there is a new firmware version coming out this week (the guy said "version 4" so presumably that's v26 004.004). I'm waiting to hear back on details about what exactly is supposed to be fixed with this version (release notes would be nice!!).

I will call Mits this afternoon and ask about the .04 version

For those who have owned the 525 and now have the 725...

....And, if you chose to remove the 525 glare screen....

How would you compare - in terms of picture quality - the 725 to the 525 with the protective screen taken off? Did you lose anything in pq w/out that shield? Or do you even gain maybe?

No 725's in my area. Do you think it's worth it to try and travel to attempt to see one, or would you think the 525 a decent compromise, given my willingness to remove the glare shield?

Thanks.

For those who have owned the 525 and now have the 725...

I tried it with, and without the screen...

"MY EYES" see more depth with the screen attached.

I just preferred the look of the 725 over the 525, but other than the screen and the case, there is no difference.

I just called Mits and they tell me the current version is .03 and they are not aware of a .04 version at this time. I told them I would just wait until the end of the week and check back.

So, if I take the screen off the 525 and the screen off the 725 - will they have the same picture? This may be a mute point since several have said that the screen actually helps PQ (at the expense of more glare).

Thanks,

A related question: with the screen off the 525 and/or 725, is the PQ then as good as the Samsung hlp 63 or 85 series sets?

millerwill
I had a samsung hlp5063 before I got the mits 52525. Took the screen off the mits within 5 minutes of turning it on. There's no point paying more for the 52725 if you're going to remove the screen unless you like the look of the black lower front. Picture quality is noticeably superior to the samsung. Better blacks, more depth to picture. Colors more vibrant. No comparison between the 2 tvs, even to my nonvideophile eyes.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by VeloSlacker
[B]millerwill

Picture quality is noticeably superior to the samsung

I wouldn't say superior maybe a little sharper image but it also produces a lot more digital noise in the background than the Samsungs...I have seen them both side by side at Tweeters...They are all nice once you get them at home.

Originally posted by jwv651
[QUOTE]Originally posted by VeloSlacker
[B]millerwill

Picture quality is noticeably superior to the samsung

I wouldn't say superior maybe a little sharper image but it also produces a lot more digital noise in the background than the Samsungs...I have seen them both side by side at Tweeters...They are all nice once you get them at home.

I too thought that the mits had a lot of background noice compared to the Samsungs when viewing them at BB.

I haven't, however, seen any digital noise on my 725 at home. That's even with SD material. The feeds at BB etc are just too spotty to make any decent conclusions about PQ. I also wasn't happy with the colors of the mits compared with the sammy at BB. After calibrating it, I'm thrilled.

Also to those considering the 2910 denon v. the 3910, why not concider the 2900. You can get them on sale at Crutchfield. That's what I'm doing. They are about the same price as the 2910 and have better audio. Also, from what I've read here, dvi isn't much of a bonus since our tv's convert to analog anyhow

Craig

I am thinking of doing the 2900 too, maybe even used from Audiogon.

Plus I was checking out the Exemplar mods, but that makes the 2900 a 3K player with a tube analog 2 channel section.

Originally posted by thai21
Can someone tell me their experiences with HTPC on this DLP set?

- Do you have to use powerstrip to do 1280x720 without overscan?

- Is the text at 1280x720 crisp and readable at 8' away?

- Does it full up the entire screen at 1280x720?

Thank you.

there is another thread around that is specifically geared towards HTPC on the Mitsu DLP sets. with that said, i am running my HTPC on my 52725 using the VGA output. at 1280x720, you have to use the PC "Reduce 1" format, in standard format, the picture goes off the screen. Reduce 1 at 1280x720 looks quite good, though. The previously mentioned thread also provides some powerstrip timings to run at 1200x666, which can be displayed in Standard format with no overscan. That is what i'm using and it looks great.

Originally posted by scpanel
I just called Mits and they tell me the current version is .03 and they are not aware of a .04 version at this time. I told them I would just wait until the end of the week and check back.

The UE guy called me back and said the manager has no idea what the new software fixes. However, he's going to a conference in Las Vegas this week and will meet with the Mits reps, find out what it is, and let me know.

So, I'm gonna go dunk my head in a toilet and hold my breath until I hear from him. Bye!!!

Well, I am going to wait before upgrading from ver .02 until we here more about when .04 will be avaliable.

Originally posted by scpanel
rpr,

Try the following perfect color settings:
Magenta 53
Red 43
Yellow 43
Green 35
Cayan 31
Blue 44

see if that helps
scpanel: Those settings did help quite a bit with the green push, but they gave me the dreaded clay face syndrome. Way too much reds and magenta. Very strange as many folks seem to be using those settings without these problems. It looked so unrealistic I reset everything back to the factory default color settings. As long as I don't use the "Auto" color settings, the green push is not too bad.

I'll have to get the Avia DVD back out and start tweaking again.

I also just completed the geometry tweaks with the Service Menu and the front allen screws. It is close to pefect now. Tx to everyone for the help!

Originally posted by rpr
scpanel: Those settings did help quite a bit with the green push, but they gave me the dreaded clay face syndrome. Way too much reds and magenta. Very strange as many folks seem to be using those settings without these problems. It looked so unrealistic I reset everything back to the factory default color settings. As long as I don't use the "Auto" color settings, the green push is not too bad.

I'll have to get the Avia DVD back out and start tweaking again.

I also just completed the geometry tweaks with the Service Menu and the front allen screws. It is close to pefect now. Tx to everyone for the help!

those settings in combination with these video settings worked really well for me. maybe you have your color temp set to high?

Sharpness - 0
Color - 31
Tint - 31
Brightness - 45
Contrast - 41
DefinEdge Off
Video Noise - Reduction
Color Temperature - Low

Nope...I had the color settings scpanel suggested with all of the other suggested settings you posted above. Really produced poor results for me. Didn't know what everyone meant by clay faces until I tried these settings.

Very strange that these are working for most others. Maybe associated with firmware differences or build date? I have firmware 003 with a build date of August 2004.

I have to say that on my replacement set I recieved a few days ago those didnt work either. After using DVE on the new set today I came up with

Magenta 42
Red 49
Yellow 47
Green 39
Cayan 30
Blue 34

I am still tweaking but the colors seem to be balanced with the blue, red, green filters in the test patterns. But it has been running all day and now probably has about 25 hours on it so I will play more tomorrow.

Also, I find that especially with this replacement set, contrast in the 40 range is way to high and I am setteling in the 15-20 range especially for night time viewing. Brightness is about 48.

Originally posted by bmartin5150
I'm ready to pull the trigger on the 62715 but I'm a little woried that it will be too big once i get it in my home.

I will be sitting about 12 feet from the TV from the main seating position.

I briefly had a Samsung HLP-5063 in my space but returned it for several reasons, one being the feeling that i shold go bigger.

I thought about the 52" but that seems too small.

Can anyone share thier feelings on this.

Also, at that distance, how does SD material look? I thought SD material on the 5063 looked pretty good. It was a lot better than iId anticipated.

I currenlty get my signal from DirecTV with the HD Tivo unit.

Thanks
Bruce

My room is 14' wide, so after taking into consideration 2' for the stand and a little more for the width of the back of the couch, I'm sitting 11.5 to 12' away and the 52" is plenty big enough. Any larger and I feel I would lose PQ. I personally wouldn't sacrifice PQ for size. Just my opinion.

I agree with Mac3150, I am about 11-11.5' away and it really seems a little too close, but I dont have any other option. I think for the 52" about 12-13' away would be perfect.

As far as the SD material it looks OK, but I am so spoiled with HD now that anything less looks awful in comparison.

Thanks for the feedback about seating distance. I'm getting worried now.

How long have you had the 52"? I had a 50" for about 4 weeks and it seemed big at first but by the end of the 4 weeks I grew accustoned to it and thought I could go bigger

Any other out there with the 62" care to chime in?

Originally posted by zzzzdoc
Great TV at night, but the $200 for the 725 screen is, IMHO, an insufficiently working rip-off. Mitsubishi should provide us with the trim kit for free.

That part I agree with. I think since there really isn't any difference in the 725 series the newer screen should have been offered for free as a retrofit to the 525. As part of the retrofit the trim kit should have also been made avaialble. This would have really proven to be a very effective customer service measure for Mits.

Originally posted by domer67
For those who have owned the 525 and now have the 725...

....And, if you chose to remove the 525 glare screen....

How would you compare - in terms of picture quality - the 725 to the 525 with the protective screen taken off? Did you lose anything in pq w/out that shield? Or do you even gain maybe?

No 725's in my area. Do you think it's worth it to try and travel to attempt to see one, or would you think the 525 a decent compromise, given my willingness to remove the glare shield?

Thanks.

Personally, I think the 725 looks better. Given the fact that a lot of places, like Tweeter, are willing to negotiate on the price of the 725, you can probably work out a pretty good deal. I paid less for my 725 than I did for my 525. I don't know if this helps in the decision making process or not but just my two cents.

Originally posted by boristhedog
FYI: I'm having my 62 replaced tomorrow, mainly because of the bright "spot" that UMP_Terp and I are experiencing. Plus, I've confirmed at least 2 missing screws. I was ready to bail out and try another model, but the PQ just kept sucking me back in....

Also, I was also told that there is a new firmware version coming out this week (the guy said "version 4" so presumably that's v26 004.004). I'm waiting to hear back on details about what exactly is supposed to be fixed with this version (release notes would be nice!!).

Keep me posted on whether or not you experience any of the other issues that we discussed when you get your replacement unit. I too am having a new unit delivered next week. Tweeter currently does not have any 725s in stock in my area.

Let us know what the 4.0 firmware is supposed to fix. I called Mits today as well and they did confirm that the latest version for the 725 is .03. The person that I spoke to did not mention any newer version being released soon.

Originally posted by domer67
For those who have owned the 525 and now have the 725...

....And, if you chose to remove the 525 glare screen....

How would you compare - in terms of picture quality - the 725 to the 525 with the protective screen taken off? Did you lose anything in pq w/out that shield? Or do you even gain maybe?

No 725's in my area. Do you think it's worth it to try and travel to attempt to see one, or would you think the 525 a decent compromise, given my willingness to remove the glare shield?

Thanks.

I have a 52525 with the screen removed and believe it has superior PQ compared to a 52725 I checked out over the weekend. IMO, whatever faults some may find in a screenless 525 (I can seen none myself) doesn't compare to the loss in PQ caused by even the slightest amount of glare. Of course it's all a matter of personal opinion. Either that, or people are trying to convince themselves they made the right decision by switching.

Originally posted by delar
I have a 52525 with the screen removed and believe it has superior PQ compared to a 52725 I checked out over the weekend. IMO, whatever faults some may find in a screenless 525 (I can seen none myself) doesn't compare to the loss in PQ caused by even the slightest amount of glare. Of course it's all a matter of personal opinion. Either that, or people are trying to convince themselves they made the right decision by switching.

Got any pictures of your 52525 w/o the screen? I'm dying to see what it looks like cause every time I goto Tweeter or BB, they don't wanna take it off

Originally posted by bmartin5150

Any other out there with the 62" care to chime in?

I have a 62" and sit ~12' away. It's big, but not too boo-coo. SD stuff varies greatly IMO. It is what it is....SD football is terrible, but SD Sienfled reruns look fine. Also, I have a "regular" Tivo ;( and the non-football shows I watch from that look fine....at least watchable. I got the 62" because 1) the price difference wasn't that much 2) I could always exchange it if it was too big 3) If I had the 52", I would always be wondering why I didn't get the 62". A 57" or even a 60" might be better at this distance, but that's not an option with this set...so I went with the 62".

Originally posted by boristhedog
I have a 62" and sit ~12' away. It's big, but not too boo-coo. SD stuff varies greatly IMO. It is what it is....SD football is terrible, but SD Sienfled reruns look fine. Also, I have a "regular" Tivo ;( and the non-football shows I watch from that look fine....at least watchable. I got the 62" because 1) the price difference wasn't that much 2) I could always exchange it if it was too big 3) If I had the 52", I would always be wondering why I didn't get the 62". A 57" or even a 60" might be better at this distance, but that's not an option with this set...so I went with the 62".

That about sums it up, although I might be a touch more disappointed in SD PQ....

-Randy

Originally posted by scpanel
I have to say that on my replacement set I recieved a few days ago those didnt work either. After using DVE on the new set today I came up with

Magenta 42
Red 49
Yellow 47
Green 39
Cayan 30
Blue 34

Which section of DVE does it detail how to adjust the perfect color settings?

MELONHEAD

It is in title 7 on the DVE dvd. In in 7-5 at 13 min 56 seconds you get to the color/tint test pattern. Set the blue channel first as best you can w/color and tint, then check the red and green channels.

If they are not all even in brightness as mine were not, then bring up the perfect color settings and tweak the green and red channels. Then I double checked the blue and went back and forth a few times to get it as close as I could.

Originally posted by scpanel
I agree with Mac3150, I am about 11-11.5' away and it really seems a little too close, but I dont have any other option. I think for the 52" about 12-13' away would be perfect.

I decided I was going to buy a XX725. My viewing distance is 9-11 feet. I went to the store and set up chairs at that distance in front of a 52" and 62" set. 62" was the right one for me.

It is my understanding, as posted in the home theater section of this site, that the recommended viewing distance is 1.5-2.0 times the screen diagnonal. That would be 7.75 to 10.33 feet for a 62" set.

My son has a 100" home theatre(DLP projector) and has his front row of seats are set up at 12.5 feet, which is 1.5x and it is fantastic.

Want to make another test? Go to you local movie theater and sit were you like it best. Pace off the distance to the screen. Ask the theater operator the digaonal of his screen. Do the math and see how that compares.

Originally posted by bmartin5150
Thanks for the feedback about seating distance. I'm getting worried now.

How long have you had the 52"? I had a 50" for about 4 weeks and it seemed big at first but by the end of the 4 weeks I grew accustoned to it and thought I could go bigger

Any other out there with the 62" care to chime in?

I think it depends on the quality of your source. When I moved up from a 32" crt to the 62" Mits, I thought the 12' distance of my couch was too close for anything. After just a few weeks, I'll watch a good HD feed sitting on my ottoman about 8' from the screen. I still back up as far as possible for analog SD viewing, but a good digital signal is fine at 12'.

Originally posted by rjg41
Want to make another test? Go to you local movie theater and sit were you like it best. Pace off the distance to the screen. Ask the theater operator the digaonal of his screen. Do the math and see how that compares.

What I have done is to go to a movie theater, sit at a comfortable distance from the screen, and then use my outstretched arm and my hand to judge the screen size. For me, if I spread my thumb and pinkie straight out from one another, they reach the two edges of the screen. I then reverse the process when I get home - sit in my normal TV watching position, hold out my arm with thumb and pinkie outstretched, and use objects at TV distance to match the same distance. Then I measure the diagonal. You could use a ruler or any other object to gauge the theater screen size.

John

I sit back about 8 or 9 feet from my 62725 and at first it seemed a little close, but now I am use to it. It is really like watching tv at the movie theater. Different but not necessarily worse. Plus, I usually watch higher resolution stuff like high def, dvd's, and web surfing at 1184 X 666.

Also, I called Mitsubishi at 949-830-8364 and they have no idea when the next firmware upgrade will come out. The guy I talked to hadn't heard of any white crush complaints, either.

Speaking of white crush, a service tech will look at my set tomorrow so I'll let you all know if he fixes the problem.

With regard to size of TV and viewing distance, I've got a 21' X 14' room and my seating (two side chairs and a sofa) starts as close as 10', goes up to 14' on the sofa. I've tried arranging chairs at stores at these distances and the 52" Mits is excellent with HD material at all distances. Switch over to local non-HD, non-digital cable and my preference would be the sofa... or about 14' because regular cable just doesn't look that great up close.

Add to this that while a 62" screen adds a lot of real estate to the screen, it doesn't add any pixels. So the picture on the 62 can't be "better" or even "as good" using that logic. The same pixels just get projected larger on the 62 so there's a chance that the picture will not be as clear and defined as on the 52.

The extra $500 for the 62 over the 52 doesn't bother me, but I think I'm going full circle. I originally wanted a 50" Samy, then liked the 52" Mits, gave serious consideration to the 62" Mits... and now I think I'm going to pull the trigger on the 52725. And on top of all this, whatever TV I buy has to co-exist with other furniture in the room, the fireplace, doors, windows, and people... plus our varied use of the room. IOW, it's not a media room, it's a family room. So it's all about compromises.

We've been very happy with a 35" CRT for the past 10 years, never felt it was too small, so jumping up to a 52" almost doubles the square inches of viewing screen for me and that's not too bad. It also gives me some flexibility with regard to positioning the set that the 62" doesn't since we intend to surround the set with 35" wide combination bookshelf/curio cabinets. Heck, I'm just happy my wife is OK with a big expenditure on a jumbo (her words) TV! :)

This size stuff is all very subjective though, and ehatever floats your boat usually works.


Capt Mike

Originally posted by IronHorse

This size stuff is all very subjective though, and ehatever floats your boat usually works.


Capt Mike

This is true. I have a 62" Mits in a room that is 11'x17'. The TV is the front of the room with two leather love seats on each side and a leather sofa is opposite the TV at approximately 9 feet away. The two farthest seats on the love seat are about 6'-7' away and the closest are about 5' away. As you have probably guessed this is a viewing room so the TV is the main focus. We absolutely love it. Just remember the only standards that should matter are yours. It is ok to use best practices as a rule of thumb but it is your house, your room, and your TV and you are the one that has to be happy in the end. Well actually it is probably your wife that you have to worry about keeping happy but I digress.

My new 62 arrived!!! Unfortunately, I'm not at home...but I had my wife check a few things.

1) October 2004 manuf. date (my other one was Sept. 2004)
2) V26 004.003 (no surprise)
3) Test pattern looked square to her (my other one was WAAAAY off, so hopefully no "tilt" with this one)

I'll have to wait until tonight to check for the bright "spot"...if that's gone too, I'm happy, happy, happy. UE did a great job turning this thing around for me.....makes me want to continue to do business with them.

OK, I just spent 20 minutes searching the forum for the TILT fix instructions and also a way to display the pattern and I give up. Come someone post a link again?

Originally posted by npc2396
OK, I just spent 20 minutes searching the forum for the TILT fix instructions and also a way to display the pattern and I give up. Come someone post a link again?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=439889

Last night, my wife needed to work on the main computer while my 3 year old wanted to play online PBS games. Meanwhile, I was watching Monday Night Football. So I split the screen with the secondary PC that is connected to the Mits on the PIP and sound from a pair of PC speakers, while I watched MNF in the main screen with the sound routed through my A/V receiver to my wireless headphones.

Peaceful coexistence through modern technology.

In deciding on a DVD player to go with my new 725, I was discounting players with HDMI connections do to the D to A then back to D conversion. I called the salesman (Magnolias) who help me with my purchase and mentioned this dilemma and ask if he had any old Denon 2900 hanging about, which he did for a very good price, but he thought I must be mistaken and that he would call the head rep for Mits and ask him. He called me back today and told me the rep categorically denied that the HDMI connection was converting D to A then back to D. He stated that the rep assured him that the digital signal was passing through unaltered. I viewed the diagram that shows the HDMI connection passing through the analog path and told my sales men as such. He told me he trusts the rep to know what his is talking about. So do I believe the head Mits rep know the truth, if so Demon 2910 if not 2900. Can someone else ask there sails rep to contact Mits and see if they get a different answer?

Dan

[QUOTE]Originally posted by wdb51

I viewed the diagram that shows the HDMI connection passing through the analog path.

There is your answer...Mits Rep or Magnolias are wrong! Diagram is your proof.

If the Mits rep is stating flat out that the HDMI doesn’t D/A/D then anyone buying a Mits DLP set can return it based on bogus advertising.

Dan

Those settings did help quite a bit with the green push, but they gave me the dreaded clay face syndrome. Way too much reds and magenta. Very strange as many folks seem to be using those settings without these problems. It looked so unrealistic I reset everything back to the factory default color settings. As long as I don't use the "Auto" color settings, the green push is not too bad.

rpr.
Let me know what you try, I am fighting the same green push with this new set and I am not happy with my new settings either. I am also noticing this green halo on the left side of faces and its driving me crazy.

Originally posted by jwv651
[QUOTE]Originally posted by wdb51

I viewed the diagram that shows the HDMI connection passing through the analog path.

There is your answer...Mits Rep or Magnolias are wrong! Diagram is your proof.

Could someone please link this diagram for me please? I would like to take a look at it for myself. Also what is the source of this diagram. Are you sure it is accurate? Thanks in advance for your help.

Originally posted by Snowbum
Could someone please link this diagram for me please? I would like to take a look at it for myself. Also what is the source of this diagram. Are you sure it is accurate? Thanks in advance for your help.

The diagram in question comes from the Mitsubishi service manual CD, a copy of which I purchased. I couldn't find the previous posting of this diagram so I resized and uploaded the diagram myself here.

Well, that didn't turn out as clear as I had hoped. I had resized to accomidate AVS Forums max pixel size of 640x640, so let me try uploading a higher res file and see if it takes.

EDIT: Yes, much better

Great,

Can someone post to explain it. I am not sure what this means. I do see the A/D conversion, but the HDMI seems to be on a different path.

Originally posted by Panzer948
Great,

Can someone post to explain it. I am not sure what this means. I do see the A/D conversion, but the HDMI seems to be on a different path.

The block in the bottom left corner, IC2000 HDMI Decoder, converts the digital HDMI data to analog component video. The HDMI component signals then make it over to the A/D converters on the PWB-DM board to again make a digital signal.

One would expect the HDMI signal to be directly fed, or at least digitally fed, into the signal select box on the PWB formatter board as the converted PC-VGA signal is.

All,

I've had my 62725 for about 2 weeks now and last night I ventured into the Service Menu. After checking the hour and bulb hours (I'm over the 'magic' 100 hours of bulb), I got into the geometry window to look at the overscan test pattern. Here's what I got... First thing I noticed is the outside Red line is clearly visable on the left and top but not on the right & bottom. Is this indicitive of the infamous Tilt issue?? The bottom center seems bowed in the image....but that's an anonomly...I didn't see that. I'll try and post a better image..(Maybe I'll use a tripod this time). Ok..so what next. Do I call the retailer/installer or go right to Mitsubishi? Any recommendations/suggestions would be helpful.

As a side, I am getting my AVIA disk back from my brother-in-law today to look at the whitebalance/ contrast, etc. I definatly have seen a degredation of image quality over time.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/ajeffe/IMG_5829.JPG

You need simple service menu adjustments of the horizontal and vertical positioning... that will fix what you see. The slight bowing is to some extent normal. It is a function of the lenses used in the projection system.

Can you describe what you mean by degradation of picutre quality?

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
You need simple service menu adjustments of the horizontal and vertical positioning... that will fix what you see. The slight bowing is to some extent normal. It is a function of the lenses used in the projection system.

Can you describe what you mean by degradation of picutre quality?

UMD_Terp,

Thanks....I truely appreciate all your insights. Any chance you can point me to the settings to adjust? i.e. Service Menu parameters to adjust

As for picture quality. I took notice of my settings when I first received the set. All settings, with the exception of contrast were set to mid-level (31) ; Color, Brightness, Tint, Sharpness. Contrast was set to MAX (63) and Color Temp was set to High. Color bars were also all set to Mid leve (31).

When Set first arrived, it seemd extremly sharp...and vibrant. Now, my wife and I agree, that picture seems somewhat 'washed out'. I also seem to precieve a lack of detail.

Like I said in my previous post, I havn't calibrated with AVIA yet, but I know that's not the be-all-end-all. I also played with some of the 'suggested' settings posted here...including playing with Define Edge, and Video Noise....and still doesn't seem as good.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Again,
Andy

i.e.

Sources connected to are;

Scientific Atlanta 3250HD STB connected via Component for HDTV and Coax for Standard Cable. (Comcast Cable (Garden State), NJ)

Cyberhome DVD playter connected via Component

Playstation2 connected via Component

check this post... http://avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4461167#post4461167

since you only need service menu adjustments, skip the other stuff about adjusting keystone, etc...

Perhaps your lamp has settled out a bit after 100 hours... readjusting your picture settings may help with that. What are your video settings right now?

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
check this post... http://avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4461167#post4461167

since you only need service menu adjustments, skip the other stuff about adjusting keystone, etc...

Perhaps your lamp has settled out a bit after 100 hours... readjusting your picture settings may help with that. What are your video settings right now?

Video Settings currently are:

Contrast 63
Brightness 31
Sharpness 31
Color Temp High
Tilt 31
Color 31
V Noice Standard
Define Edge on

Magenta = 31
Red = 31
Yellow = 31
Green = 31
Cyan = 31
Blue = 31
**All Mid Level settings..

I have 'played' alitttle with some of the video settings...just to personal preference.. (lower contrast, set Temp to Medium, Video Noise, Define Edge, ).

Like I said..I plan to get my AVIA disk today....to check things out.

Would you recommend doing the HPOS, VPOS adjustments with the internal pattern or using the AVIA pattern? Does the image I posted imply a Tilt problem?

Thanks
Andy

You need to use the internal test patterns for the adjustments... I don't think you need any other adjustments as everything looks for the most part, square.

I would lower the contrast and raise the brightness a bit until you get it calibrated. The default settings are way off.

With regard to the HDMI D/A/D conversion issue. Is this just for Mits or does Samsung do this as well?
What a Deal breaker for me! I love xx725s but no pure digital throughput is a real same!

Originally posted by SK8_MD
The block in the bottom left corner, IC2000 HDMI Decoder, converts the digital HDMI data to analog component video. The HDMI component signals then make it over to the A/D converters on the PWB-DM board to again make a digital signal.

One would expect the HDMI signal to be directly fed, or at least digitally fed, into the signal select box on the PWB formatter board as the converted PC-VGA signal is.

Hmm, so it defiantly does this conversion then. I guess the Mits rep in the earlier post was wrong.

The bigger question is does this impact quality when using HDMI connectors or more specifically, is the PQ lower in the Mits compared to other DLPs using HDMI that keep the digital path? Has anyone done a comparison?

I do not see how it could not effect PQ, as with all that I have read the more you have to process a signal the more chances you have for it to effect the output

Originally posted by bmw_68
I do not see how it could not effect PQ, as with all that I have read the more you have to process a signal the more chances you have for it to effect the output

Hmm, I just have not heard anyone doing a real comparison between other sets using the HDMI connection. When I was in Tweeter the other day, all their TVs were connected using component (they said due to cost). I may have to wait for the Sammy 74s unless I see some evidence that PQ is not a factor using HDMI.

This is bothersome. Once I get this set sorted out with the green halos on the left side of faces and red on the right (when facing the set) and the green push, I was planning on using an HDMI switcher.

Now I am thinking that component switching with set through my Krell HTS 7.1 may actually be better?

Originally posted by SK8_MD
The block in the bottom left corner, IC2000 HDMI Decoder, converts the digital HDMI data to analog component video. The HDMI component signals then make it over to the A/D converters on the PWB-DM board to again make a digital signal.

One would expect the HDMI signal to be directly fed, or at least digitally fed, into the signal select box on the PWB formatter board as the converted PC-VGA signal is.

From what I see of the diagram an analog HDMI signal passes through as stated, however looking to the right of said box shows that an HD (HD DEMOD)signal goes straight to the HD decoder bypassing all converters. Checked with our electronics guy and he thought the same thing.
Matt

It would seem logical that if you could feed the Mits a good component signal there would be only one internal conversion and thus better PQ. Am I missing something?

Take a look at this and let me know what you folks think, I am beginning to think there is some color wheel timing problem here. I wish I could have gotten a clearer picture but you can see how the red color is shifted right which looks like its causing the green halo on the left and the red on the right.

what is your source?

this is SD cable, but it looks the same on the HDMI from my DISH 921

I guess what I meant to ask was whether you were using the interal tuner on the TV or not... but I guess it doesn't matter since you see this on HDMI as well... if it was the tuner, then it may be normal... but since you see it on HDMI, it looks suspect. Where on the screen do you see this?

this is the lower right, but when you are looking at peoples faces, we see this green halo on the left side and red on the right side. I have yet not been able to get a good picture

and this picture was using the TV tuner

Here is an example of the face halos I mentioned.

You can see the green on the left side and slight red on the right, its still not a great picture

Any thoughts or ideas?

Originally posted by boristhedog
My new 62 arrived!!! Unfortunately, I'm not at home...but I had my wife check a few things.

1) October 2004 manuf. date (my other one was Sept. 2004)
2) V26 004.003 (no surprise)
3) Test pattern looked square to her (my other one was WAAAAY off, so hopefully no "tilt" with this one)

I'll have to wait until tonight to check for the bright "spot"...if that's gone too, I'm happy, happy, happy. UE did a great job turning this thing around for me.....makes me want to continue to do business with them.

The bright spot is still there with this new unit, although not nearly as visible. Also, I had to do a reset last night since the TV quit responding to the remote and would not even power off with the front button. Had to reset twice actually, since the first reset didn't take (green light just kept blinking). I may need a slight "tilt" adjustment if any, but it's pretty sqaure. OTA tuner worked fine, IR blasters still suck.

Question: Is the "option" menu (tv menu-2470) the only way to check OTA signal strength? I'm assuming the scale is 0-10...

scpanel, but can you see those halos when sitting 10 feet away? Obviously you will see every problem with a DLP when you're 10 inches away

Originally posted by MATTZS
From what I see of the diagram an analog HDMI signal passes through as stated, however looking to the right of said box shows that an HD (HD DEMOD)signal goes straight to the HD decoder bypassing all converters. Checked with our electronics guy and he thought the same thing.
Matt

I believe that shows the pathway if you connect your cable directly from wall or from antennae to the tv , which uses the internal hd tuner. So in theory, using the internal OTA hd tuner should give a better picture than using an external hd receiver. I haven't tried it out myself, yet.

Originally posted by boristhedog
The bright spot is still there with this new unit, although not nearly as visible. Also, I had to do a reset last night since the TV quit responding to the remote and would not even power off with the front button. Had to reset twice actually, since the first reset didn't take (green light just kept blinking). I may need a slight "tilt" adjustment if any, but it's pretty sqaure. OTA tuner worked fine, IR blasters still suck.

Question: Is the "option" menu (tv menu-2470) the only way to check OTA signal strength? I'm assuming the scale is 0-10...

That is the only way to get the signal strength....

So the spot is still there? I got a call from Mitsubishi and they still don't know what is up with it. They are looking into it still. On a black screen, do you still see a horizontal white line towards the bottom? You need to look down on the set from about a foot away.

I think all these other issues with the reset and netcommand are a byproduct of faulty firmware. The bright spot seems like a manufacturing bug somewhere.

Originally posted by subwoofer
scpanel, but can you see those halos when sitting 10 feet away? Obviously you will see every problem with a DLP when you're 10 inches away

We can see them from the couch and its about 8', it was real annoying last night.

Terp, this is why I will not buy a DLP tv yet. I am going to hold off for another year (maybe 2) to see what happens to HDTV selection and DLP tvs. Faulty should not be in their vocabulary when we are talking a $4000 tv.

Originally posted by scpanel
Here is an example of the face halos I mentioned.

scpanel - I have the same halos. It is even noticeable on some good HD feeds. For example, Tonight Show in HD. Look at the left egde of Leno's gray hair. It is not so much a "halo" as a thin green "outline" in HD. I have a direct cable connection with CableCard. And in answer to another post, it is noticeable from 10' away.

Very interested in seeing how this pans out.

I never noticed it on the previous set, I am taking the pictures out to the store. Not sure if I want to try again or not. The Service dept cant come for 2 weeks, so we will see what happens. This set is still from the first batch I think.

Originally posted by subwoofer
Terp, this is why I will not buy a DLP tv yet. I am going to hold off for another year (maybe 2) to see what happens to HDTV selection and DLP tvs. Faulty should not be in their vocabulary when we are talking a $4000 tv.

Considering that this is Mitsubishi's first big run with DLP, some issues are expected... it is how they are handled by them that counts... plus none of these are catastrophic by any means.

Originally posted by 2left
scpanel - I have the same halos. It is even noticable on some good HD feeds. For example, Tonight Show in HD. Look at the left egde of Leno's gray hair. It is not so much a "halo" as a thin green "outline" in HD. I have a direct cable connection with CableCard. And in answer to another post, it is noticable from 10' away.

Very interested in seeing how this pans out.

Very interesting, I am taking these pictures to them in about an hour, I will let you know what they say. But my guess is they will want to replace it again.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
Considering that this is Mitsubishi's first big run with DLP, some issues are expected... it is how they are handled by them that counts... plus none of these are catastrophic by any means.

True, but when you spend $4000 for a tv you want it right at some point.

Originally posted by 2left
scpanel - I have the same halos. It is even noticeable on some good HD feeds. For example, Tonight Show in HD. Look at the left egde of Leno's gray hair. It is not so much a "halo" as a thin green "outline" in HD. I have a direct cable connection with CableCard. And in answer to another post, it is noticeable from 10' away.

Very interested in seeing how this pans out.

BTW, have you contacted Mits about your issue?

Originally posted by scpanel
True, but when you spend $4000 for a tv you want it right at some point.

trust me... I know where you are coming from... Mitsubishi still has no idea what is going on with this bright spot... It has been two weeks now since they found out about it, but still nothing. I want it fixed along with these other things as well... I've written to them twice already and they have been fairly responsive so far.

Well, I am on my way. I will let you all know what I find out later today.

I am bringing my laptop with me to show them all these pictures. Later

Originally posted by scpanel
True, but when you spend $4000 for a tv you want it right at some point.

Exactly :( 3 years ago I bought a $550 32" CRT tv from JVC and there has been zero problems and it works great. Only things I can't do with it that a DLP can is hook up PC up to it (via VGA or DVI ports), get true digital picture for HD channels, and have a big screen. For only 20 more inches and $3000 more or so, that ain't worth it to have a single bug in the system. Thats why I'm holding off a little bit longer (plus I gotta find a perfect stand for one of these tvs, haha).

Originally posted by scpanel
BTW, have you contacted Mits about your issue?

I haven't contacted Mits about it based on previous posts saying this was normal behavior for a rear projection tv. Your recent posts brought the issue back to mind, though.

Another "normal behavior" I am living with is occassional audio sync problems. I reported this to Mits and they offered to send out a servicer, but I declined after I read posts saying that hdtv image processing is so demanding that it often results in the image lagging the audio.

Since this is my first rear projection tv, I might be a little hesitant about determining when I have a genuine problem.

The only audio sync issues I have ever seen are wth PBS HD. I know for a fact that is due to my local PBS station's feed. No other HD channel or video game has ever shown any audio lag or input lag.

Originally posted by scpanel
Here is an example of the face halos I mentioned.

I saw the same phenomenon on a Mits 525 at Fry's a week ago.

John

I just want to confirm my understanding (or lack thereof). Am I correct in assuming there is no benefit in a DVD player that up converts from 480p to 720p since the Mits do this internally?

I'm looking for a cheap progressive scan DVD since my existing one does not have a digital audio optical output. My amp only has one digital coax input which is now in use by the Mits.

Since I no longer have a VCR either (donated to my least favorite charity - my son), I was thinking of the Sony D350P or Panasonic D4744.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
The only audio sync issues I have ever seen are wth PBS HD. I know for a fact that is due to my local PBS station's feed. No other HD channel or video game has ever shown any audio lag or input lag.

Mine happened on some of the major networks' hd (I forgot which). I even lost audio completely a couple of times. Changing channels or turning the tv off and on always solved the problem. It hasn't happened for a couple weeks. Maybe because when I first got the Mits I kept switching between hd and sd channels to experiment - that kind of switching seemed to bring on the sync issues.

I've had cases where the audio just didn't plain work on HD channels, but no lag. Whenever that happens, I just flip the channels up and down and it always comes back.

Originally posted by TomTx
I just want to confirm my understanding (or lack thereof). Am I correct in assuming there is no benefit in a DVD player that up converts from 480p to 720p since the Mits do this internally?

I'm looking for a cheap progressive scan DVD since my existing one does not have a digital audio optical output. My amp only has one digital coax input which is now in use by the Mits.

Since I no longer have a VCR either (donated to my least favorite charity - my son), I was thinking of the Sony D350P or Panasonic D4744.


I think it depends on the quality of the electronics of the DVD player vs. the Mits. There are posts by people who are very happy with their 480i DVD players and let the Mits do the de-interlacing and upconverting. I have two different inexpensive jvc DVD players (xv-n55sl and dr-m10sl) and I have compared their 480i output with the Mits set to "Film Mode-Auto" to their 480p output with Film Mode off. The 480i output gives me jagged coral edges in the opening credits of "Finding Nemo", and the green fish break up into horizontal lines when the sting ray takes the class to the "drop off". I don't know for certain if the problem is with the Mits, but I just set the jvc's to 480p output.

Posters have listed very positive results with some upconverting DVD players, including the Zenith DVB318 with old firmware that upconverts over component outputs.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
I've had cases where the audio just didn't plain work on HD channels, but no lag. Whenever that happens, I just flip the channels up and down and it always comes back.

This is the post in response to my original post about audio sync issues, which made me decide not to pursue the matter.

Post #1969 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4505027#post4505027)

Originally posted by 2left
scpanel - I have the same halos. It is even noticeable on some good HD feeds. For example, Tonight Show in HD. Look at the left egde of Leno's gray hair. It is not so much a "halo" as a thin green "outline" in HD. I have a direct cable connection with CableCard. And in answer to another post, it is noticeable from 10' away.

Very interested in seeing how this pans out.

Everything 2left says goes for me too. I can see the "halo' watching the HD broadcast of Monday Night Football, and it's all over the basic SD channels to various degrees. Curiously I don't notice it while watching movies in HD or premium SD channels.

Originally posted by slobbie
I believe that shows the pathway if you connect your cable directly from wall or from antennae to the tv , which uses the internal hd tuner. So in theory, using the internal OTA hd tuner should give a better picture than using an external hd receiver. I haven't tried it out myself, yet.

I see what your saying, however a SD signal would take the converter path like it shows and a HD signal would take the direct path. It must use the same "box" for both the HDMI and the coax inputs, and splits them up by the signal type.

I have a 62725 coming in, and it is being ISF calibrated before installation. I know it's overkill and I could probably do it myself, but I will never find the time...

I was wondering, if I have to reset the TV for some reason, as many members have had to do, will I lose all the calibrations that have been made?

Well after about an hour in the store and showing the pictures, and some phone calls, no one understands why this is happening. We did compare other SD content on thie feed and we did not notice anything significant.

One speculated it could be something with a mirror? Anyway, they have offered to replace it again, but I am looking at alternatives including the Panny Plasma.

Maybe for another 1500 its worth it.

Originally posted by bigsharmoota

I was wondering, if I have to reset the TV for some reason, as many members have had to do, will I lose all the calibrations that have been made?

no... as long as they have been saved prior to the reset.

Originally posted by bigsharmoota
I have a 62725 coming in, and it is being ISF calibrated before installation. I know it's overkill and I could probably do it myself, but I will never find the time...

I was wondering, if I have to reset the TV for some reason, as many members have had to do, will I lose all the calibrations that have been made?

One thing to consider: the general consensus is that you should wait until the lamp bulb has 100 hours or more on it prior to calibrating. Apparently the image characteristics can change somewhat up to that point. I haven't really experienced this, but I haven't gotten too fine with trying to adjust everything just yet, either. It is just something to keep in mind....


Randy

Originally posted by wdb51
In deciding on a DVD player to go with my new 725, I was discounting players with HDMI connections do to the D to A then back to D conversion. I called the salesman (Magnolias) who help me with my purchase and mentioned this dilemma and ask if he had any old Denon 2900 hanging about, which he did for a very good price, but he thought I must be mistaken and that he would call the head rep for Mits and ask him. He called me back today and told me the rep categorically denied that the HDMI connection was converting D to A then back to D. He stated that the rep assured him that the digital signal was passing through unaltered. I viewed the diagram that shows the HDMI connection passing through the analog path and told my sales men as such. He told me he trusts the rep to know what his is talking about. So do I believe the head Mits rep know the truth, if so Demon 2910 if not 2900. Can someone else ask there sails rep to contact Mits and see if they get a different answer?

Dan

Get the 2900. You should be able to get for the same price as the 2910. It has much better audio components and the video through component is superb. The 2910 is more in line with the old 2200, not the 2900.

Craig

Well, I've had my 52725 for 10 days now and I've had 4 control freezes that required me to turn the set off, and one that required a reset. I spoke to the salesman and he gave me the options of having a Tech come out or having the set replaced. At this point I'm not sure what a Tech could do if there isn't a firmware fix (It was delivered with the 03 version), so at this point I'm opting for the replacement. Anyone know of a firmware fix to the 03 version for this?

I've also noticed a fair number of rainbows on this set, so it will be interesting to see if there is any difference with another set, or maybe (probably) it's just me. By the way, if you want to check your set (or your eyes) for rainbows just watch the first 10 mins (B&W part) of the Van Helsing DVD. If you don't see them there, I suspect you're not going to see them anywhere.

Also, for those of you who are watching analog channels, I have found that setting the Noise reduction to Standard (vs Reduction) and turning the DefinEdge to ON can make a big difference. The neat thing is that these settings will change when the picture is in Pause, so you can pause an analog channel and play around with them to see what they do.

Originally posted by IFLYSWA
One thing to consider: the general consensus is that you should wait until the lamp bulb has 100 hours or more on it prior to calibrating. Apparently the image characteristics can change somewhat up to that point.
Randy

I was concerned about that break-in period being needed also. I spoke to Mitsubishi, who said that once the lamp is warm, after 1-2 minutes, the picture should look always look the same since its a fixed-pixel device, and not CRT based.

Originally posted by bigsharmoota
I was concerned about that break-in period being needed also. I spoke to Mitsubishi, who said that once the lamp is warm, after 1-2 minutes, the picture should look always look the same since its a fixed-pixel device, and not CRT based.

The reasoning on this recommendation was that the Bulb would "mature" during this 100 hr break in period.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
I've had cases where the audio just didn't plain work on HD channels, but no lag. Whenever that happens, I just flip the channels up and down and it always comes back.

I have on rare occasion the same problem. I also had one instance when my Dish PVR was on and recording when I turned on the Mits and could not get it to respond to anything other than a reset. This happened once, but the HD OTA audio loss does still happen, particularly if I channel surf too fast. In any event, yesterday a Mits technical rep called back and told me that my Oct built set with a software ver of xxxxx.03 was the most up to date, BUT there have been scattered reports like mine where a re-load of the same software ver. solved the problem. He will mail out a flash card and said he would call back to check up in about a week or so.

BTW, I'm a UMD FPE grad from 197xxx (dam at this point the decade tells the entire story). Was on campus a few weeks ago and could not believe the difference!

Originally posted by TomTx

BTW, I'm a UMD FPE grad from 197xxx (dam at this point the decade tells the entire story). Was on campus a few weeks ago and could not believe the difference!

hahaha... I got my masters degree there back in 2000 and my BS in '98 and I went back and couldn't recognize half of the place either... :o

BTW, I am a fellow engineering grad as well... EE department here :D

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
hahaha... I got my masters degree there back in 2000 and my BS in '98 and I went back and couldn't recognize half of the place either... :o

BTW, I am a fellow engineering grad as well... EE department here :D

Young wipper snapper......... :rolleyes: :)

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
hahaha... I got my masters degree there back in 2000 and my BS in '98 and I went back and couldn't recognize half of the place either... :o

BTW, I am a fellow engineering grad as well... EE department here :D

Penn State engineering here! Computer Engineering and I'm even younger :)

Originally posted by TomTx
I have on rare occasion the same problem. I also had one instance when my Dish PVR was on and recording when I turned on the Mits and could not get it to respond to anything other than a reset. This happened once, but the HD OTA audio loss does still happen, particularly if I channel surf too fast. In any event, yesterday a Mits technical rep called back and told me that my Oct built set with a software ver of xxxxx.03 was the most up to date, BUT there have been scattered reports like mine where a re-load of the same software ver. solved the problem. He will mail out a flash card and said he would call back to check up in about a week or so.

The very fact that the Mits DLP's have only been on the market a few months and are already on their third (official) firmware version reinforces the notion that tv's should now be thought of as computers. That's why I'm sticking with mine despite the occassional glitches requiring a reboot. Still love that picture. :)

Has anyone noticed a delay playing XBox games that support 720p?

I play MVP Baseball and the pitching meter on it allows very little room for error. I have been playing this game for MONTHS and I got a 52725 series DLP and its the first game I tried..... I'm throwing balls and hitting the batter every time unless I "guess" where the cursor will land....

Really dissappointed.

Thai21,

This game gets a little choppy at 720p, so maybe it's the Xbox processing causing the problem? Just thinking out loud. How is it at 480p?

It seems impossible to get away from video game console bugs with ANY DLP tv.

Maybe for a guy like me, I should just wait until XBOX 2 or PS3 comes out to get a new DLP tv.

The only Xbox 720p game I have is True Crime Streets of LA, and I've not noticed any lag with that... but timing in that game is not very critical... honestly, I have yet to have any lag issues with any game 480i, 480p, or 720p... PS2 and Xbox included.

Quick question. I have the 62725 calibrated and am very happy so far.

I am actually new to 16 x 9. My old set Sony HS-10 61 inch was 4 x 3.

Is it normal that when viewing 480i 4 x 3 video that the two side's look 'stretched' while the center of the image looks normal. I would imagine this is the set making the 4 x 3 image fill the 16 x 9 screen and is normal.

Can someone confirm?

Time

time4akshun...

You need to set your format to standard and not strech. This will stretch the pic evenly, and not distort it.

Technik,

Where is this in the menu?

Time

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
The only Xbox 720p game I have is True Crime Streets of LA, and I've not noticed any lag with that... but timing in that game is not very critical... honestly, I have yet to have any lag issues with any game 480i, 480p, or 720p... PS2 and Xbox included.

but how do they look? Got any pictures of them?

They all look great... I posted pics earlier in one of the other threads..

where at? :) thanks!

Hit the format button on the lower portion of your remote.......It will cycle through some based on the input source.

Thanks Technik!!!

Xbox:
http://home.comcast.net/~nauman76/tv/DSCN1230.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~nauman76/tv/DSCN1232.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~nauman76/tv/DSCN1233.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~nauman76/tv/DSCN1237.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~nauman76/tv/DSCN1238.JPG

Dreamcast:
http://home.comcast.net/~nauman76/tv/DSCN1245.JPG

nice pics! Any PS2 ones? Thats what I'm dying to see on a DLP

Originally posted by subwoofer
nice pics! Any PS2 ones? Thats what I'm dying to see on a DLP

None on the web... maybe on my PC at home...

Originally posted by scpanel
Well after about an hour in the store and showing the pictures, and some phone calls, no one understands why this is happening. We did compare other SD content on thie feed and we did not notice anything significant.
One speculated it could be something with a mirror? Anyway, they have offered to replace it again, but I am looking at alternatives including the Panny Plasma. This red shift (green outline) was noted quite a while ago in the big Mits DLP and "blame game" topic. I noted this happening on my 52525 but it was more so with the internal tuner. I have since swapped the set for another 52525 due to the tilt issue. The green outline/halo you mention is still there, but only ever so slightly; in fact I don't even notice it anymore. It was much worse on the previous set.

This suggests to me it is caused by some sort of variability in the design or manufacturing process. Not every TV has it, and some have it worse than others. So you could get another TV and it might be better or worse. What I did is take my calibration disc with me to the store. I tested the new TV before I took it home. Hopefully your store is willing to do that (and possibly go through several before you're happy).

It could be the Xbox at 720p.. maybe. Its not as bad at 480p but still a bit noticable.

Have any of you used the RGB input for this TV? Does it fill up the entire screen?

I used a DVI->HDMI cable and it filled up the screen with overscan.... :(

Thanks for the input... comtemplating plasma now.. this is my 4th DLP...

Called Mitsubishi on my control freeze and reset problems. (BTW they have a new web site up with toll free numbers). They suggested that I reset the Remote by turning it away from the TV, holding down the ON button, and pressing 0-0-0. I don't think the remote is my problem, because when my set locks up it also locks up on the TV front panel, but I did the procedure anyway.

The one thing I have noticed since the reset is that the remote is much faster. Ok, maybe not the channel change, but selecting the sources in net command is now so fast that it's easy to accidentally skip over a source. Volume changes are also much faster and seem to track well with the remote. Before it was very sluggish. So, if your remote is slow you might try the reset.

Originally posted by PAULJK
Called Mitsubishi on my control freeze and reset problems. (BTW they have a new web site up with toll free numbers). They suggested that I reset the Remote by turning it away from the TV, holding down the ON button, and pressing 0-0-0. I don't think the remote is my problem, because when my set locks up it also locks up on the TV front panel, but I did the procedure anyway.


Doesn't that (0-0-0) take the remote out of NetCommand mode (which is 9-3-5...I think)?

Originally posted by boristhedog
Doesn't that (0-0-0) take the remote out of NetCommand mode (which is 9-3-5...I think)?
I'm not sure what you mean by NetCommand mode. I can still use Net Command to select devices. I'm not controlling any of them yet with Net Command, so I wouldn't know if any of the device control changed.

OK, I see a previous post by kbarduca that mentions setting the remote to it, but I don't know what that sequence really does, so I guess my answer is that I don't know if it affects it or not.

Darn. That POWER 0-0-0 sequence didn't help my jumpy remote. Sad times. Still gives me surges in volume, like I held the button down too long. Seems only the volume acts this way though.

I must say that worked on mine pretty good. NOw when Im using comcasts guide I can scroll through MUCh faster, before it took about 2 seconds, now its about .5. Anybody else notice a change when =doing this.

Also anybody else seeing what looks likes finger prints on th mirror, NOT THE SCREEN. Had my 525 alittle over a month now, and as all electronics, they attract dust, Im curious if perhaps this DUST could rest on an oil left on a mirror....just a guess. But I do rememnber reading in one of the threads that someone had a tech clean all mirrors and that fixed the dirt/ smudge problems....YES????

Originally posted by technik

Also anybody else seeing what looks likes finger prints on th mirror, NOT THE SCREEN. Had my 525 alittle over a month now, and as all electronics, they attract dust, Im curious if perhaps this DUST could rest on an oil left on a mirror....just a guess. But I do rememnber reading in one of the threads that someone had a tech clean all mirrors and that fixed the dirt/ smudge problems....YES????

I thought these sets were assembled in an ISO Class 4 clean room. :D

Originally posted by delar
I thought these sets were assembled in an ISO Class 4 clean room. :D

What the heck is a class 4 clean room??

My guess is it was assembled in either a class 100 or 1000 and then goes through a blowout procedure the bring the environment to class 10.

Would seriously doubt they are made in a class 10 or 1 cleanroom.. The DLP chips themselves are made in a class 10000. TI uses ballroom fabs

Originally posted by TenthScale
What the heck is a class 4 clean room??

My guess is it was assembled in either a class 100 or 1000 and then goes through a blowout procedure the bring the environment to class 10.

Would seriously doubt they are made in a class 10 or 1 cleanroom.. The DLP chips themselves are made in a class 10000. TI uses ballroom fabs

ISO Class 4 is equivalent to Class 10, but is based on the metric system.

Originally posted by 2left
I think it depends on the quality of the electronics of the DVD player vs. the Mits. There are posts by people who are very happy with their 480i DVD players and let the Mits do the de-interlacing and upconverting. I have two different inexpensive jvc DVD players (xv-n55sl and dr-m10sl) and I have compared their 480i output with the Mits set to "Film Mode-Auto" to their 480p output with Film Mode off. The 480i output gives me jagged coral edges in the opening credits of "Finding Nemo", and the green fish break up into horizontal lines when the sting ray takes the class to the "drop off". I don't know for certain if the problem is with the Mits, but I just set the jvc's to 480p output.

Posters have listed very positive results with some upconverting DVD players, including the Zenith DVB318 with old firmware that upconverts over component outputs.

if your DVD player only has the capability of outputting a video signal in the 480i output the Mits will only display it in 480i format correct? How do you setup the Mits to do upconversion on a DVD player? I have DirecTV and a Samsung 360 HD receiver and on this unit you can select the output mode, i.e. 1080i, 720p, and several native modes in which the Mits handles the upconversion. My Samsung 841 DVD player does have a "Native Option". I am making sense or am I missing something obvious about this reply?

Originally posted by delar
I thought these sets were assembled in an ISO Class 4 clean room. :D

These sets are assembled in Mexico. I guess they have oily burrito fingers. Thats what we get for $.50/hr.

A quick question for the group. Is the xx725 a Diamond Series or not ?? I just was on the web site and the only one designated as a Diamond Series was the xx825. The reason I ask is BB and other like stores don't carry the Diamond Series but if the xx725 isn't a Diamond series then BB and other like stores should be able to get the xx725. Just another bargaining tool to get a better price on this sets.

Originally posted by Mikef5
A quick question for the group. Is the xx725 a Diamond Series or not ?? I just was on the web site and the only one designated as a Diamond Series was the xx825. The reason I ask is BB and other like stores don't carry the Diamond Series but if the xx725 isn't a Diamond series then BB and other like stores should be able to get the xx725. Just another bargaining tool to get a better price on this sets.

The XX725s are the Medallion series...not Diamond.

Hope that helps...
Randy

Originally posted by IFLYSWA
The XX725s are the Medallion series...not Diamond.

Hope that helps...
Randy

So BB and the like stores don't carry the Medallion series either ???

Originally posted by Mikef5
So BB and the like stores don't carry the Medallion series either ???

I'm not totally sure, but I think they are carrying only the 525 series in BBs. If they have a Magnolia section I think they might carry the other models.....

-Randy

Originally posted by IFLYSWA
I'm not totally sure, but I think they are carrying only the 525 series in BBs. If they have a Magnolia section I think they might carry the other models.....

-Randy

Drats,
I have a Magnolia about 20 miles from me and a BB about 2 miles, much more convenient to go to BB and easier to deal with. Thanks for the response.

Originally posted by Snowbum
if your DVD player only has the capability of outputting a video signal in the 480i output the Mits will only display it in 480i format correct? How do you setup the Mits to do upconversion on a DVD player? I have DirecTV and a Samsung 360 HD receiver and on this unit you can select the output mode, i.e. 1080i, 720p, and several native modes in which the Mits handles the upconversion. My Samsung 841 DVD player does have a "Native Option". I am making sense or am I missing something obvious about this reply?

I think it's page 10 of the manual where it states that all signals (480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i, various VGA) are converted to 720p for final display. Although you'd think sending a 720p signal would give the best picture because it's the Mits' native resolution, some who can choose have posted that the converted 1080i input looks better to them.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
hahaha... I got my masters degree there back in 2000 and my BS in '98 and I went back and couldn't recognize half of the place either... :o

BTW, I am a fellow engineering grad as well... EE department here :D

I graduated there in '93 with a degree in Mechanical Engineering. This was when they has just about completed the new Engineering building near the bookstore; yes, shame on me I forgot the name of it.

With regard to cabling... I've noticed some A/V Receivers have digital I/O's, Cable RJ6 I/O's, Component I/O's, or Optical I/O's. So here's a couple of questions:

1. Assuming I'm buying a 52725 or a 62725, is the HDMI connection to used for a cable box? Are Monster brand cables worth the $$$ or is there an alternative that is less expensive and just as good?

2. I'm basically going to start off with no STB and just connect my local Comcast cable to the set... should/could I split the cable so that I can use PIP? Or should I rig up an OTA antenna for local HD?

3. If I use a splitter, should I be looking to buy a generic 1 GHz, or a 2.x GHz splitter. My cable is split outside with a feed to the 2nd floor, and another that comes into my basement and then splits to the cable modem and the other side to the Family Room TV. Should I replace the splitter down in the basement with a multi-head (i.e. 3-4 outlets) or split along the line as needed? I'm thinking I should use a 4-outlet 2.3GHz splitter and work from there. Note that this cable has to service a couple of other TVs in the basement.

4. What's the basic cable needs regarding compnents (DVD, CD Player, VCR, etc)... do I nee ultra cables for all of these?

TIA!


Capt Mike

Originally posted by Mikef5
So BB and the like stores don't carry the Medallion series either ???

The Big Box stores will only carry the 525 series. Mitsubishi does this so that the smaller specialty stores can compete (like the one I work at). Hopefully things don't change, so we have a little edge on them.

Thanks Kevin Barduca (A-1)

Originally posted by IronHorse
With regard to cabling... I've noticed some A/V Receivers have digital I/O's, Cable RJ6 I/O's, Component I/O's, or Optical I/O's. So here's a couple of questions:

1. Assuming I'm buying a 52725 or a 62725, is the HDMI connection to used for a cable box? Are Monster brand cables worth the $$$ or is there an alternative that is less expensive and just as good?

I use the HDMI for my PC connection and have the cable box hooked to a component video input. I'm happy with the picture quality over the component input and I don't see a difference when I compare an OTA channel the same comcast provided cable channel. I don't believe the Monster brand HDMI cables are the extra money. I am using a 15 meter HDMI cable from Pacific Cable and it works great.

2. I'm basically going to start off with no STB and just connect my local Comcast cable to the set... should/could I split the cable so that I can use PIP? Or should I rig up an OTA antenna for local HD?

I started off with comcast cable in Ant1 and an attic antenna for Ant2 using the OTA signal to compare to the cable channels. I wanted to make sure comcast wasn't over-compressing channels. Once satisfied with comcast's picture quality, I ahve seldom switched back to the OTA Ant2 input. Do you know that you can use the PIP feature on different channels on the same Ant1 input? I don't see the advantage of splitting the cable to the separate antenna input.

4. What's be the basic cable needs regarding compnents (DVD, CD Player, VCR, etc)... do I nee ultra cables for all of these?

Run RG6 for antenna and cable runs and son't spend more on the cabling than the device your connecting to.

Originally posted by SK8_MD
I use the HDMI for my PC connection ...


Really? Or did you mean VGA? As far as I know, you can't get decent resolutions via dvi-hdmi when using an HTPC.

A few days ago I had a service tech from the Home Theater Store come by to check out the white crush I've noticed. This problem was also noticed with the pluge pattern on several calibration discs that umr brought over. However, the night before the technician came I was getting a calibration disc ready when I noticed the white pluge pattern over the white background!?! Apparently what umr and I saw went away?!? I now have just over 140 hours on the set, so maybe there is something to that?

If anything, the calibrations discs indicate very slight black crush rather than the obvious white crush we noticed last week.

This was noticed with my Sound and Vision calib. disc. I will order DVE and see if I can still see the pluge pattern.

Side note: That service tech knew no more than any of us that frequent this forum...at least when it comes to DLP's. I wasn't about to let him use that power drill he brought along.:cool:

Originally posted by slobbie
Really? Or did you mean VGA? As far as I know, you can't get decent resolutions via dvi-hdmi when using an HTPC.

Yes, I did mean HDMI. I don't know what you mean by descent resolutions but the display looks excellent. I didn't use VGA because the computer is about 50 ft away (as a cable snakes) and I didn't want to try to push analog RGB that far. I don't use this for an HTPC, just big screen browsing and game playing.

What I meant was I could never get computer resolutions (ok, maybe it was 640X480, I don't remember). Well, I couldn't get anything that I could enjoy looking at. The manual states the hdmi input isn't intended for a PC connection and I have to agree. When I tried it anyway, the tv displays that it is receiving a 480P signal.

It sounds like you're doing the best you can with your specific situation (long cable runs). If you haven't already, check out the threads below where some of us tried using the hdmi input.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=451873

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=454127&perpage=20&pagenumber=1

Guys...looks like I just had a monster of a lockup. The set froze, I turned it off and then back on, and now nothing is working. The set just seems to cycle through various "snow" screens.

What do I do? I tried the reset button on the set, but that only succeeded in giving me a pretty green flashing led indicator with no picture.

unplug the thing and wait... plug it back in and see what happens...

Man this thing is hosed. After a few resets, its just back to randomly switching screens of snow. Can't get anything on my sat or antenna feeds.

Got a pretty good feeling I will have to delete my devices in Netcommand and set them back up again. Anybody else experience this type of reset/crash issue, or am I the only lucky one? :rolleyes:

Not had a snow loop yet.... But I have had it where it 's like the TV was running an A/V app in the background, like on Windows, and its REALLLLLLLLL slow, like 10 seconds to change from DVD input to Cable, which usually only takes maybe a sec, but only once.

Still thinking of calling to get the internal mirrors cleaned due to the dust and smears I see on the "image" and not the actual screen..

I notice the "slow processing" moments also. It has a lot to do with Netcommand, and using the remote controls "TV function" with the slider in another position.

what stinks, is after you hit it a few times, then wait, it will do all of those command at once.

Happens maybe once a week to me, but I'm sure it's more user error than anything.

Well, it looks like as of next week I will no longer own the 725. I had some of the same issues rpr mentioned with the previous set and the replacement has the halo effect and dirty mirrors. So we decided to go look for something else. Plus the new 50" panny plama 7UY is only about $500-1K more and are getting rave reviews on AVS. Good Luck all!

sorry to hear you're leaving us scapnel.


I guess I'm lucky that my set works really well ... however, I did have to replace my original set due to shadowy distortions in the central screen.



BTW, to anyone interested, Sound and Vision Magazine has a review of the xx525 in the current issue (and on the internet site). They seemed to feel it was one of the better DLP's that they have reviewed. I wonder what percentage of us have had problems with our set? ... I'm not too concerned since I purchased a 5 yr warantee.


Craig