Have any of the owners been able to do a same source input on both component and HDMI to compare PQ?

"Have any of the owners been able to do a same source input on both component and HDMI to compare PQ?"

Yes, I have a Denon 2910 and Mits WD62725. I have both component and HDMI hooked up. There is not much of a difference. The component feed looks softer with better color. Th HDMI gas a slight green push but has slightly better resolution. I keep going back and forth on which one I like more. I should do a poll within the family on which is prefered.

Well...I just recovered from my lockup/crash. I had to unplug the TV and my TIVO HD DVR box. This then put me back into the last step of the setup stage, where it searches for the satellites.

Here's my question. I have a feeling that the Hughes TIVO HD DVR may have caused the lockup, and not my 52725. When it was locked up, I was able to get the TV to respond to some of the commands from the TV remote, but nothing on the Hughes TIVO HD DVR remote (or box) worked at all. I should have unplugged one at a time, but didn' think about it at the time.

Keeping in mind the TV reset button didn't work, and the only thing that seemed to work was having to search for and lock in the satellites again, since that is a function of the TIVO HD DVR box, then the lockup could not have been caused by the TV, right?

Furthermore, the TIVO HD DVR box had the "Record" LED indicator on all night (while it was locked up). This morning, after I got everything cleared up, nothing was recorded overnight. If it was the TV locked up, and not the TIVO HD box, then the box would have recorded the "snow loops" as opposed to nothing at all, right? So I figure it must have been the TIVO HD box (HR10-250).

Sorry for the long post, just do not want to exchange the TV if it is in fact the TIVO HD DVR box that is the problem. Any thoughts?

Originally posted by jrsevy
"Have any of the owners been able to do a same source input on both component and HDMI to compare PQ?"

Yes, I have a Denon 2910 and Mits WD62725. I have both component and HDMI hooked up. There is not much of a difference. The component feed looks softer with better color. Th HDMI gas a slight green push but has slightly better resolution. I keep going back and forth on which one I like more. I should do a poll within the family on which is prefered. Same here; 2910 and WD52525. I've done a bit of a/b comparing between the two interconnects. Pretty hard to see much difference. The contrast/brightness/color need to be modified differently on each to get the optimal picture; setting them identical doesn't work.

That said, I tend to prefer the HDMI path at 1080i so far. I was convinced the Denon COMP 480p would look superior on this TV because of the really good D/A converters in the Denon. But its extremely hard to see much difference in quality, at least on this TV. I can use DefinEdge with the HDMI 1080i, but with Comp480p I don't like DefinEdge. Maybe a tad sharper on HDMI.

The Denon has formidable analog component capability. Comparisons between the Mits HDMI and COMP inputs will most likely have different results with other DVD players.

Originally posted by technik
But I do rememnber reading in one of the threads that someone had a tech clean all mirrors and that fixed the dirt/ smudge problems....YES????

That was me. Yes I had what looked like a comma shaped piece of something on the rear mirror. When the tech took off the front screen we noticed some other areas that were smudged. It was hard to see them with a flashlight. You almost had to center the flashlight to the side of the smudge to see it in the edge of the cone of light. He had a tough time getting them clean even with static free clothes.

rpr and HTBruceM,
I was wondering about sending a 720p over component, with the only thing for the Mits to do is convert to digital- how that looks compared to the other signals.

Originally posted by rpr
Well...I just recovered from my lockup/crash. I had to unplug the TV and my TIVO HD DVR box. This then put me back into the last step of the setup stage, where it searches for the satellites.

Here's my question. I have a feeling that the Hughes TIVO HD DVR may have caused the lockup, and not my 52725.

I've had my 52725 since mid Sept and other than the smudge problem, I've had no problems. I'm NOT using Net Commander. Mysystem set up is a bit complex. Let's just say I have 2 sat dishes (big and small) feeding 2 vcr's and my Dennon AVR. Plus both an OTA into Ant#1 and ultra basic cable going into Ant#2 and my DVD player connect to the AVR for audio and the Mitsu via component.

dwarren2
What kind of universal remote do you use that can handle all of that?

Originally posted by pjr
rpr and HTBruceM,
I was wondering about sending a 720p over component, with the only thing for the Mits to do is convert to digital- how that looks compared to the other signals.
pjr: I am using HDMI 720p from the HD TIVO DVR to the TV, I haven't tried using component.

Originally posted by pjr
rpr and HTBruceM,
I was wondering about sending a 720p over component, with the only thing for the Mits to do is convert to digital- how that looks compared to the other signals. If you mean compared to 480p or 1080i from the same source, it's a toss up between 720p and 1080i in my opinion. I have opted to run at 1080i because I see some wierd noise on the ESPN-HD channel at 720p. When they switch to their 4:3 programming, instead of black pillarboxes, they put the ESPN logo embedded into some vertical white lines. Those white vertical lines have some noise/flickering going on for me at 720p. Not there at 1080i.

Originally posted by HTBruceM
I see some wierd noise on the ESPN-HD channel at 720p. When they switch to their 4:3 programming, instead of black pillarboxes, they put the ESPN logo embedded into some vertical white lines. Those white vertical lines have some noise/flickering going on for me at 720p. Not there at 1080i.

Glad I'm not the only one that's noticed that (noise in the vertical HD on ESPN-HD)...I will try 1080i to see if that clears it up. But, then I'll be back to the annoying flickering around when changing channels.

Originally posted by boristhedog
Glad I'm not the only one that's noticed that (noise in the vertical HD on ESPN-HD)...I will try 1080i to see if that clears it up. But, then I'll be back to the annoying flickering around when changing channels.

I use 720p and I have some flickering also but only when Definedge is turned on. The noise reduction option also adds a vertically moving brightness feature that is annoying. Have you tried turning off these options?

Originally posted by HTBruceM
If you mean compared to 480p or 1080i from the same source, it's a toss up between 720p and 1080i in my opinion. I have opted to run at 1080i because I see some wierd noise on the ESPN-HD channel at 720p. When they switch to their 4:3 programming, instead of black pillarboxes, they put the ESPN logo embedded into some vertical white lines. Those white vertical lines have some noise/flickering going on for me at 720p. Not there at 1080i.
Interesting...I don't see any noise/flickering at all in those ESPN pillarboxes at 720p.

With the new software version .04 running for the past few weeks everything was great, until last night. I lost all analog and digital channels. I tried reset-unplug-power on-rescan and no channels. I did this twice and then tried unplug-reset--power on-rescan and still no channels. I don't get analog or digital. The tuner works as I get the channels in PiP, but not on the main screen.

Any ideas? Please help.

Received my 725 on Saturday and no problem so far. Looking on the back of the unit, I noticed that there is one set of monitor audio/video outputs (for analog). The video connection is composite and I was disappointed that the unit didn't at least allow s-video to a vcr or dvd recorder (most dvd recorders/tivos nowadays have s-video input). On closer examination I observed a metal plate covering what looks to be an s-video output immediately to the right of the composite output. Does anybody know if this s-video monitor output is active (or can be made active)? Why is it there in the first place (perhaps active on 825)? All you would have to do is bend or cut the metal up to expose the s-video output jack.

I might actually consider using the internal cablecard slot, if s-video could be used to archive to recordable dvd or a non-firewire hard drive unit.

I've worked on 100's of HDTV's and never have seen other then composite. I plug the source devices into the VCR and/or DVD recorder. My Panny DVD H80 seems to record a better picture with composite.

Put an S-Video cable into the connector and tell us what you see.

Does anyone have a schematic for me to look at?

Originally posted by Jim Christian
I've worked on 100's of HDTV's and never have seen other then composite. I plug the source devices into the VCR and/or DVD recorder. My Panny DVD H80 seems to record a better picture with composite.

Put an S-Video cable into the connector and tell us what you see.

Does anyone have a schematic for me to look at?

Can't plug anything into it yet as it is still mostly obscured by the metal plate. It certainly looks like an s-video jack from what I can tell. I'm not sure if I'm ready to take a dremel to a one-day old $3,000 tv yet, although I'm sure someone out there may have the guts. Anyone else notice the "hidden s-video output" on the 725 or am I just seeing what I want to see?

After start up I hear a loud sparking noise coming from the back left of the TV. It first happens about every 10 minutes than becomes less frequent as the tv is on longer. There is no pattern that I can tell. I can't tell if it's coming from the speakers or the TV box but it doesn't matter what volume or input the TV is set to I still hear it. It actually scared me and the wife the first few times it happen so it's noticable. The picture does not react at all. Anyone else with this problem.

I've heard it once or twice and it sounds like a high-voltage capacitor et al arcing.

If it happens more I'll call Mits.

Originally posted by pjr
dwarren2
What kind of universal remote do you use that can handle all of that?

roflmao........ I don't have one. I use a jumble of remotes. I've been nicked named gizmoman because of the by an old girlfriend. Basically I use a different remote for each unit. And that's just the set up in the living room. I feed the coax ant out from each of the vcr's to an A/B switch which then feeds coax that goes under the floor to my bedroom to another A/B switch (other input is from the Dish receiver there) and then to the computer room. There is goes into another A/b switch (other input is from the ant out of the primary vcr in a stack of 2) and finally into a small TV next to the computer. There is a stereo unit hooked up to the audio outs of the vcr. There are also 5.1 stereo system in the bedroom and the downstairs family room.

Oh yes. My wife is a technophobe!!!

I have 23-devices in my URC MX-800 & it works superbly with the 725 as there are discretes to most of the Mits inputs.

I'm thinking about adding it to our store

Just received my 62725 today, and have the "bright spot" in the bottom center of the screen. Don't know if I should call right away for a replacement? I'm going to see if it shows up on dark material tonight.

Just ordered my 62725 from a Tweeter store. When I first priced it about a week and a half ago salesman gave me 10% off the posted price. To my surprise when we went in today he quoted me a price $180 lower than the first time. Seems they had lowered the posted price in the last week and he decided to pass the savings along to me. All this plus the rebate from Mits and the no payments till Jan. 2006. I was ready to pay more. Anxious for arrival either Thursday or Friday. Got the 5 year extended warranty as well. Don't usually do that but considering the newness of the technology and the cost thought $449(no bulb coverage but everything else) was a cheap price to pay. Delivery was $60. I'm happy and will remain happy if it arrives without hot spot and tilt. I'll have to see about white and black crush and green push however.

Originally posted by Jim Christian
I have 23-devices in my URC MX-800 & it works superbly with the 725 as there are discretes to most of the Mits inputs.

I'm thinking about adding it to our store

Jim,

I too have a URC, but the MX-600. It's the best universal remote type that I've come across. Especially with its RF blaster that fits in my closed AV cabinet.

Could you please outline what the codes are for the input sources of the Mits. I can't figure out a good way to create my macros without them.

And BTW, how do I actually associate a discrete code with the URC?... I've never used discrete codes before.


Thanks,

Craig

Originally posted by cmr15
Jim,

I too have a URC, but the MX-600. It's the best universal remote type that I've come across. Especially with its RF blaster that fits in my closed AV cabinet.

Could you please outline what the codes are for the input sources of the Mits. I can't figure out a good way to create my macros without them.

And BTW, how do I actually associate a discrete code with the URC?... I've never used discrete codes before.


Thanks,

Craig

is the mx-600 computer programmable? i believe that's the only way you can program discrete codes directly into the remote. or, find a remote that is computer programmable, program it with the discrete codes, and have your remote learn off that remote.
i have a URC-200 and i programmed my macros to navigate the device menu. it definitely would be nice if i could get it to use discrete codes, though.

Originally posted by rotty2
Just received my 62725 today, and have the "bright spot" in the bottom center of the screen. Don't know if I should call right away for a replacement? I'm going to see if it shows up on dark material tonight.

e-mail me at nauman76@gmail.com ... I can fill you in on the problem and other details... this goes for eveyone that sees this bright spot... we need to organize and all inform Mitsubishi together so they see that this is in fact a widespread issue. This is the only way that they will put enough resources in trying to fix this...

If you are looking for discretes, supposedly you can get them from the Mits remote so if you have a learning remote you can set the mits to the discrete mode, learn the functions you need and set the remote back to normal.

I pulled this from a previous post on this forum... I haven't tried them yet as I don't yet have my TV:

"Set the slider switch to TV mode. Press and hold the power button and enter the code 090. Make sure to point the remote away from the TV as this will turn it on/off! The input devices, and power/reset, can now be selected as follows:

Power = power ON only
Stop = power OFF only
Pause = AV Reset

Pressing device followed by:
PIP/POP = ANT-DTV
PIP Device = INP-DTV
1 = input 1
2 = input 2
3 = input 3
4 = input 4
5 = component 1
6 = component 2
SQV = Input STB
QV = Input VGA
PIP CH Up = Ant-1
PIP CH Down = Ant-2"

Originally posted by rpr
Interesting...I don't see any noise/flickering at all in those ESPN pillarboxes at 720p. I suspect it is caused by my Moto 6200 STB, not the TV.
Originally posted by SK8_MD
I use 720p and I have some flickering also but only when Definedge is turned on. The noise reduction option also adds a vertically moving brightness feature that is annoying. Have you tried turning off these options? No issues with noise reduction, but DefinEdge OFF minimizes the noise to where it's almost gone.

I like to turn DefinEdge ON/OFF depending on the content I'm watching. That's why I leave the box on 1080i. The 6200 does not have a mode where it passes through the native format; it will always output a fixed resolution.

BTW, I'm a WD52525 owner, not a xx725 owner.

I am using Moto 6200 STB, and the screen also flickers when switch between SD and HD. Guess it's normal then.

BTW, I am not getting 5.1 Audio from 6200. I connected the digital audio output of 6200 to my Denon AVR. Do you have the same problem?

I also have a question regarding Netcommand. When in learn mode, how can Power on and off control be learned when it is the same button on the remote? I ended up using the same button for both Power on and off, when teaching NetCommand about my VCR, but it won't turn on the VCR when it is selected, but turns it on when I turn off my TV!

Originally posted by rjg41
Just ordered my 62725 from a Tweeter store. When I first priced it about a week and a half ago salesman gave me 10% off the posted price. To my surprise when we went in today he quoted me a price $180 lower than the first time. Seems they had lowered the posted price in the last week and he decided to pass the savings along to me. All this plus the rebate from Mits and the no payments till Jan. 2006. I was ready to pay more. Anxious for arrival either Thursday or Friday. Got the 5 year extended warranty as well. Don't usually do that but considering the newness of the technology and the cost thought $449(no bulb coverage but everything else) was a cheap price to pay. Delivery was $60. I'm happy and will remain happy if it arrives without hot spot and tilt. I'll have to see about white and black crush and green push however.

Rebate from Mits ??? Or from Tweeter? I just bought mine a couple of weeks ago. I haven't seen any Mits rebates on this set. Where would I find the info?

Thanks.

Originally posted by OhRjCa
Hello all, I just had a cable card installed on my 62725. It works great except that the DMX music channels do no come in. Has anyone else with a cable card experienced this or do your channels come in? Thanks.

I'm having the exact same problem with DMX music channels. Anyone got a fix? I just installed the .03 firmware, but no still no music channels. Charter thinks it has something to do with the music channels not having a video signal (audio only).

Originally posted by coymacoy
I'm having the exact same problem with DMX music channels. Anyone got a fix? I just installed the .03 firmware, but no still no music channels. Charter thinks it has something to do with the music channels not having a video signal (audio only).

Do you use a Scientific Atlanta or Motorola CableCARD? I use an SA myself and cannot receive the music channels on my 52525. I do believe a firmware upgrade will fix the problem, but it will be a firmware upgrade to the CableCARD, administered by your cable company, and not the tv. SA is supposedly beta testing firmware that will hopefully fix this and other problems. Check the CableCARD sticky thread in the HD Hardware forum for more details.

For people who are trying to use the $300 mail in rebate. I talked to my buyer yesterday and more than half of the people from mitsubishi don't even know about it (my buyer didnt even know about it until I brought it to his attention). Hopefully they will still honor it. Anybody who is buying this tv based on the rebate might not be a good idea. This is just a recommendation.

Thank You Kevin Barduca (A-1)

Originally posted by HTBruceM
If you mean compared to 480p or 1080i from the same source, it's a toss up between 720p and 1080i in my opinion. I have opted to run at 1080i because I see some wierd noise on the ESPN-HD channel at 720p. When they switch to their 4:3 programming, instead of black pillarboxes, they put the ESPN logo embedded into some vertical white lines. Those white vertical lines have some noise/flickering going on for me at 720p. Not there at 1080i.

I also have problems with the vertical lines on ESPH-HD. They sometimes turn into zig-zags at some points. I have Adelphia CableCard. A Tech came out to look at it on Saturday. He had no idea why. Said he would have the signal boosted.

Edit - btw, changing between Definedge on/off, Noise Reduction on/off makes no difference.

Originally posted by rsg_1
With the new software version .04 running for the past few weeks everything was great, until last night. I lost all analog and digital channels. I tried reset-unplug-power on-rescan and no channels. I did this twice and then tried unplug-reset--power on-rescan and still no channels. I don't get analog or digital. The tuner works as I get the channels in PiP, but not on the main screen.

Any ideas? Please help.

Can't help with the problematic Mits, but I'd like to know how and when you obtained the new software, .04? Is it out there? I haven't heard of anyone having that one yet. Is it supposed to fix something? Apparently, it doesn't fix the lost channels. Please, let us know how things turn out. Thanks: Lyle

Originally posted by rsg_1
With the new software version .04 running for the past few weeks everything was great, until last night. I lost all analog and digital channels. I tried reset-unplug-power on-rescan and no channels. I did this twice and then tried unplug-reset--power on-rescan and still no channels. I don't get analog or digital. The tuner works as I get the channels in PiP, but not on the main screen.

Any ideas? Please help.

Just saw your post in another thread. I guess you have the .03 software. Sorry about the .04 question. I guess it just threw me for a loop, when I saw another version being in the field.
Thanks: Lyle

Originally posted by jrsevy
Rebate from Mits ??? Or from Tweeter? I just bought mine a couple of weeks ago. I haven't seen any Mits rebates on this set. Where would I find the info?

Thanks.

The rebate is from Mitsubishi and was posted on their web site for a short time. Here is a link of someone who posted it here. http://petel-spam.home.comcast.net/...-coupon-01a.png You must buy the set between Oct. 25 and Nov. 16 at an authorized dealer.

Don't know what is going on but if they fail to honor the rebate for sets that meet the rules of the rebate they will have a problem.

Last night when watching TV, all of the sudden, a grid of colored vertical lines appeared in the picture. It happened first on a digital SD channel so I switched to analog and then subsequently an HD channel. It was there on all of them. I switched to a component input and the lines were all over the TV menus and the other inputs. They were all evenly spaced and multi-colored and formed somewhat of a grid across the screen. I reset the TV and turned it off/on twice but the lines persisted. After about 10 minutes, they all went away and everything was normal. Anyone see something similar?

This was clearly not a tuner issue as the lines were present on all inputs and menus. I've sent email to Mitsubishi this morning about this. It has happened three times now. The first two times, the lines were there for maybe 30 seconds and I attributed to the source as being an issue. This time, they were there for quite a bit of time. Well, lets see what they have to say about this...

Make sure to take the $300 rebate and get a extended warranty on these Mits units...you will need it in the future!

For those of you scoring at home, I have a Sept. build 62725, with the latest 03 firmware. My only source is OTA. I have had two glitches with it.

First, it froze during a commercial, while watching CSI last Thursday. Wouldn't respond to remote, eventually powered itself down. After power up, it asked if I had replaced bulb, so it appears to have reset itself? Interestingly, the 'remote reset fix' is now effective after this, so no more jumpy volume changes.

Last night it appeared to have lost my HD NBC while watching it. Was watching the opening to Crossing Jordan, when screen went blank (like when changing channels). Channel up/down, SQV, couldn't find this station any more. Go into antenna setup, channel is still added, but I toggled the setting, and the content re-appeared. A little strange.

Originally posted by rjg41
The rebate is from Mitsubishi and was posted on their web site for a short time. Here is a link of someone who posted it here. http://petel-spam.home.comcast.net/...-coupon-01a.png You must buy the set between Oct. 25 and Nov. 16 at an authorized dealer.

Don't know what is going on but if they fail to honor the rebate for sets that meet the rules of the rebate they will have a problem.

Anyone know where else to get the rebate. The link posted above does not work.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
Last night when watching TV, all of the sudden, a grid of colored vertical lines appeared in the picture. It happened first on a digital SD channel so I switched to analog and then subsequently an HD channel. It was there on all of them. I switched to a component input and the lines were all over the TV menus and the other inputs. They were all evenly spaced and multi-colored and formed somewhat of a grid across the screen. I reset the TV and turned it off/on twice but the lines persisted. After about 10 minutes, they all went away and everything was normal. Anyone see something similar?


Is it similar to this problem?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4581198#post4581198

Originally posted by delar
Is it similar to this problem?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4581198#post4581198

no... mine were very thin, fine colored lines slicing the screen up into a grid. They were most noticeable on lighter backgrounds and the TV menus. I could still see the picture...

Originally posted by delar
Is it similar to this problem?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4581198#post4581198

As I replied in the other thread, I have had them. I haven't reported them since I left my digital camera at a friend's house and wanted a visual for when the tech arrives. Also, changing the channel has so far fixed the problem.

I have faithfully read both this thread and the other master thread be fore I purchased my 62725... It arrived at the new place on Saturday.. Was the first thing in.


Anyway I do not recall anyone stating they saw dead pixles on their set. I have 2 and maybe a half lol...

For 4k I would not expect that to be an issue but since one is towards the lower right hand corner and the other center bottom. I wonder if I can get a replacement? Anyone have dead pixle issues?

This weekend I pulled the trigger and ordered a Mits 52725 which will be delivered on Friday (11/5). I am planning to split the cable signal from the wall to feed ANT-1 on the TV as well as my Comcast HD STB which I will connect to the TV via the DTV input on the set.

My question is, if I connect things this way can I use the Monitor Out outputs on the back the TV to feed my VCR? Will I be able to record one analog channel while watching a different channel on the TV or does monitor out just feed whatever is on the screen at the time?

Joe

Originally posted by TenthScale
I have faithfully read both this thread and the other master thread be fore I purchased my 62725... It arrived at the new place on Saturday.. Was the first thing in.


Anyway I do not recall anyone stating they saw dead pixles on their set. I have 2 and maybe a half lol...

For 4k I would not expect that to be an issue but since one is towards the lower right hand corner and the other center bottom. I wonder if I can get a replacement? Anyone have dead pixle issues?

are you sure they are dead pixels? Could just be dust or debris from the manufacturing... Since you say 'half' a pixel, it leads me to believe that it is just dust.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
are you sure they are dead pixels? Could just be dust or debris from the manufacturing... Since you say 'half' a pixel, it leads me to believe that it is just dust.

I've noticed a couple pixels that I've been concerned about on my set as well (62725). I can't determine if they are "dead" or just due to dust as people have described. They appear as just darker pixels when the screen is all white. But from a distance of over 4-5 feet, you can't see them, so I haven't worried too much.

Have people successfully "cleaned" their set to fix these type of problems without an actual service call?

I've tried taking a picture of this issue before, but it's hard to capture, since it's just a single pixel.

Do they change color at all? A truly dead pixel will be stuck at a single color.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
are you sure they are dead pixels? Could just be dust or debris from the manufacturing... Since you say 'half' a pixel, it leads me to believe that it is just dust.


No I was not really conserned about the 1/2 pixel, that one does look like it might be some dust on the front screen.. It has a fuzzy edge around it.

the Other 2 are definatly dead pixles.. I noticed it first on the blue screen you get if the set thinks there is a Digital station but can not tune into it. Perfectly shaped and black. Darker then the black that is shown to screen too, meaning if its on a black screen if you know where to look you can see them as they are the same color as if the set was off.

I am going to call magnola later to see if they will replace.. Just worried they are going to say it within the acceptable limit as they are near the edges. I just have a few more things to worry about right now, we are in the process of moving into this new place. Priorities right? LOL got the big screen and no couch yet :(

Here is a link that still works as of now for the Mits rebate coupon.
mits-coupon640.gif

Originally posted by TenthScale
No I was not really conserned about the 1/2 pixel, that one does look like it might be some dust on the front screen.. It has a fuzzy edge around it.

the Other 2 are definatly dead pixles.. I noticed it first on the blue screen you get if the set thinks there is a Digital station but can not tune into it. Perfectly shaped and black. Darker then the black that is shown to screen too, meaning if its on a black screen if you know where to look you can see them as they are the same color as if the set was off.

I am going to call magnola later to see if they will replace.. Just worried they are going to say it within the acceptable limit as they are near the edges. I just have a few more things to worry about right now, we are in the process of moving into this new place. Priorities right? LOL got the big screen and no couch yet :(

According to the warranty, 99.99% of the pixels are guaranteed.... 1280 * 720 * 99.99% = 921508 pixels guaranteed to work... that means 92 dead pixels are accepatable...

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
According to the warranty, 99.99% of the pixels are guaranteed.... 1280 * 720 * 99.99% = 921508 pixels guaranteed to work... that means 92 dead pixels are accepatable...

And that is why I wouldn't buy something like this without the 30 day, no questions asked return policy...

Randy

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
According to the warranty, 99.99% of the pixels are guaranteed.... 1280 * 720 * 99.99% = 921508 pixels guaranteed to work... that means 92 dead pixels are accepatable...

If I even had 5 I would be flipping out.. As someone below stated it might be time to exercise the 30day return policy.. Just hope I am not going to have to pay for delivery again.

Originally posted by rjg41
Here is a link that still works as of now for the Mits rebate coupon.
mits-coupon640.gif

The link you posted doesn't work.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
Do they change color at all? A truly dead pixel will be stuck at a single color.

They mostly look fuzzy and dark... not sharp and perfectly square. I've seen what you are describing on my laptop, where it's clearly one pixel and it's stuck on a certain color. I'm going to have to do more testing using solid color patterns to see if they change colors or not.

If the anti-glare protective screen on the 62725 were to be removed, how fragile is the underlying screen? Can the underlying screen be wiped clean of fingerprints, etc? If it were to be accidently bumped, would it dent, shatter, or become dislodged?

This is a legitimate question and I raised it in another post last week. Mits is the only manufacturer (I think) that uses a double-layered "screen". In truth, the inner screen is doing most of the work, and the outer screen supposedly serves a dual-role; on one hand it protects the inner screen, and then its been suggested that it also helps the Mits contrast and "depth" which could account for the high marks Mits gets on PQ.


Originally posted by BleednEdge
If the anti-glare protective screen on the 62725 were to be removed, how fragile is the underlying screen? Can the underlying screen be wiped clean of fingerprints, etc? If it were to be accidently bumped, would it dent, shatter, or become dislodged?

Now the questio I asked was whether or not these two screens are the same exact thickness as say... one Samy screen, or are they double the thichness or somewhere in-between? If the Mits inner screen is in fact thinner... then you might think the inner screen... if exposed, could be more fragile that the typical main screen.

We need someone to rip apart their Mits to measure the thicknesses and then he has to do the same to a Samy!

Capt Mike

Originally posted by IronHorse
This is a legitimate question and I raised it in another post last week. Mits is the only manufacturer (I think) that uses a double-layered "screen". In truth, the inner screen is doing most of the work, and the outer screen supposedly serves a dual-role; on one hand it protects the inner screen, and then its been suggested that it also helps the Mits contrast and "depth" which could account for the high marks Mits gets on PQ.




Now the questio I asked was whether or not these two screens are the same exact thickness as say... one Samy screen, or are they double the thichness or somewhere in-between? If the Mits inner screen is in fact thinner... then you might think the inner screen... if exposed, could be more fragile that the typical main screen.

We need someone to rip apart their Mits to measure the thicknesses and then he has to do the same to a Samy!

Capt Mike

By all reports that I have seen, the underlying screen on the Mits and the Sammy are virtually the same....I can't verify that exactly, but I didn't notice much difference in my casual comparisons....

-Randy

Originally posted by Pine2
Received my 725 on Saturday and no problem so far. Looking on the back of the unit, I noticed that there is one set of monitor audio/video outputs (for analog). The video connection is composite and I was disappointed that the unit didn't at least allow s-video to a vcr or dvd recorder (most dvd recorders/tivos nowadays have s-video input). On closer examination I observed a metal plate covering what looks to be an s-video output immediately to the right of the composite output. Does anybody know if this s-video monitor output is active (or can be made active)? Why is it there in the first place (perhaps active on 825)? All you would have to do is bend or cut the metal up to expose the s-video output jack.

I might actually consider using the internal cablecard slot, if s-video could be used to archive to recordable dvd or a non-firewire hard drive unit.

I noticed the same covered up S-Video output. Don't know if it is, or could be made, active.

I've had a 62725 since Sept 26, and now have about 300 hrs on it.

A couple days ago, it suddenly had a black level shift (towards black). It is now virtually un-watchable in a brightly lit room. At night, it is "dull", for lack of a better term. Kind of like the color temp, black level, and white level are all too low. Everything else seems OK.

Service guy will be in on Wednesday. I'm hoping for an infant failure of the lamp, but it's been 27 years since I was in the TV repair biz, so what do I know :-)

Anyone else seen a similar symtom?

Rick

The inner Mits screen and the (only) Samy screen may look alike, but until you remove both and put a micrometer on them to calibrate actual thickness, you can't really tell what is going on.

As noted above... if a normal DLP screen (like a Samy) is .250" thick, then who's to say that the Mits doesn't use two (2) layers of .125" or a .200" outer and a .100" inner screen?

I'm not ripping mine apart to find out, but maybe there is some brave soul out there that is comfortable with removing the inner screen to measure the thickness. Likewise... some Samy owner will have to remove his front screen too.

Capt Mike

My 62725 arrives next week. I intend to perform the initial set-up myself. Any advice for someone with relatively modest tech expertise? Should I save the box for a while in case I get a dud? Is there a simple way to test for dead pixels?
Regarding a stand, I am very happy with the IKEA OPPLI that lists for $99. It is a perfect size for the 62-inch set I'm getting. It's weight bearing spec is just a few lbs below the wt of the Mits, but my knowledgable carpenter friend recommended a simple and unobtrusive way to firm up the unit (especially to protect the structural integrity from "racking" forces that might occur when I move the unit around on its casters). The IKEA assembly is superbly simple and effective. The birch veneer finish looks great. I recommend it.

njbruin,

Can you send me the Oppli reinforcement recommendation? Also, do you have the center section width? One of the center channels I'm considering is 21.8" wide.

Agk

I can send measurements when I get home tonight.
Regarding reinforcement: It's fairly simple. The OPPLI has no backing to it, ie, the front looks the same as the back. My friend advises me that a lot of structural reinforcement can be obtained by fastening something as simple as a 3" wide piece of wood spanning the back of the 4 vertical pieces that connect the base to the top of the stand. Although the OPPLI is built very strong for "top-down" forces, this should stabilize the unit to lateral forces that might be applied when the tv&stand are rotated to get at the wiring in the back. My friend is coming over tomorrow night and we'll finalize a plan, and then I can let you know what the final solution is.

Originally posted by Snowbum
Anyone know where else to get the rebate. The link posted above does not work.

http://petel-spam.home.comcast.net/images/mits-coupon-01a.png

I also put it in this thread in case anyone needs it Thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=463748)

I thought I would share the results of my research and having the service tech out for the halo problem. They talked with Mitsubishi and they are aware of it but are considering it normal and part of the technology. I told them I did not see it on the previous sets I had and was told that it really is on all, some better some worse. Plus if you look real closely its there on HD as well, just a very thin line. The tech showed me.

He also got in and cleaned the mirrors of the lint/dirt that was visible because of manufacturing. Plus it was already so dusty inside and its only a few weeks old.

Anyway, I am still in the process of returning it I think and maybe will try the new sammy 5674. Its the same size, bigger screen because there is virtually no bezel. And the other advantage is no plastic screen at all.

So, still not sure where to go from here with this 4K set.

To keep it or not, that is the question!

I'm going o try and be fairly optimistic with regard to Mits PQ and other issues. That being said, with my set not yet delivered, and aside from the issues like the D/A conversion... on general PQ, fan noise, possible rainbows or halos, user controls, tweakability, Mitsubishi service, ease of use, and other normal use functions... how about a few 725 owners sounding off on likes and dislikes?

Capt Mike

Each section of the OPPLI measures 17 inches across and is 10 inches high.

I think my TV is fried... On all inputs and all channels, I see a grid of vertical multi-colored lines that span the whole screen. The lines appear in the picture itself... these lines are exactly one pixel wide and they are noticeable depending on the underlying background color. You won't see them on a black or dark screen, but do see them on white or lighter colored material. I think the light engine is hosed. I'll be calling the service center tomorrow... anyone else experience anything similar?

Just had cablecard installed which went into ANT-1 as manual suggested and moved OTA antenna to ANT-2. But when I pull up the device menu, the cable card is named CABLE-1(which I guess is ok) and the Antenna is name CABLE-2(which is a little misleading). Anyway, is there a way to change the names of these things? I know I can change the names of devices I added to Netcommand, but these seem to be defaulted.

Also, if I hit the menu button on the remote and then select Antenna, I get the screen where I can scan channels. There are two choices for the cablecard and the antenna (makes sense), but they are labled wrong. The item that is labled antenna is actually the cablecard and vise-versa. I would really like to fix this, but again I cannot find anyway to do it.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
I think my TV is fried... On all inputs and all channels, I see a grid of vertical multi-colored lines that span the whole screen. The lines appear in the picture itself... these lines are exactly one pixel wide and they are noticeable depending on the underlying background color. You won't see them on a black or dark screen, but do see them on white or lighter colored material. I think the light engine is hosed. I'll be calling the service center tomorrow... anyone else experience anything similar?

Yuk. I have not seen this. Sounds like you need a replacement.

I have had to reset my new 62725 several times now. I never had to reset my first one. It seems to "lock up" mainly when I have a PiP going and I'm chaning channels, or exchaning the PiP screens. Also, sometimes when I have PiP up and I change the channel on the main screen, it will change the channel, but also exchange the PiP! Makes no sense.

Anyone else have problems with PIP/POP?

Well, I'll try and take pics of it when it happens again. It doesn't happen when I first turn the tv on, but maybe 10-20 minutes later, it is there. This is my guess...

This problem exists in the light engine itself. The DMD is accessed probably like a memory... probably like an SRAM. The controller for the DMD sends out addressing signals to the DMD to turn the mirrors on/off. When the TV is just turned on, it is not hot at all. As the heat inside the TV grows, a loose or unstable connection between the DMD and the DMD controller becomes faulty because of a loose connection or whatever. This flaky connection causes a timing glitch or a bad/missing transition on the faulty line. Since this is an address line to the DMD, the mirrors accessed by that index present on the address bus transition incorrectly. The lines are spaced perfectly apart and are exactly one pixel wide. They show an incorrect color and they are more apparant on white or lighter material. This is definitely a problem with the projection system as it is present on all inputs and even the TV menus.

I finally gave in to the pressure and purchased Digital Video Essentials. I have gone through most of the intros and the basic setup screens. However, there are a couple of things that I am a little confused about.

I successfully completed the sections that cover adjusting the tint, contrast, brightness, sharpness, etc.., but is there a place on the DVD that helps you to adjust the various colors? Should I just use the perfect color setting and let the Mits handle the colors itself?

I have my Samsung 841 DVD player connected via component and my Samsung 360 DirecTV HD received connected via the HDMI port. My DVD player does have a DVI port on it. Should I connect my DVD player to my HDMI port and run through the setup again? Or is there another way to calibrate my HD receiver on the HDMI port. Is it true that each piece of equipment will process the incoming signal differently and therefore there it would be pointless to use DVE via a DVD player to calibrate the HDMI port?

Please help me! All of this is a little confusing.

test

Originally posted by Snowbum
Should I just use the perfect color setting and let the Mits handle the colors itself?

Is it true that each piece of equipment will process the incoming signal differently and therefore there it would be pointless to use DVE via a DVD player to calibrate the HDMI port?


I personally leave the "perfect color" OFF. For me it seems to really screw up the colors and makes any "red shift" really pronounced. I just started with someone's previous post of color settings and changed them to taste. There are color patterns used to set the color levels. I'm no expert on how to use them or which are the best to use, but they do exist.

It's true that you use the VE disc to set the DVD input settings. Plus, each input has their own unique settings, which can be a little frustrating, since you can't necessarily use the VE disc. Though, you can learn how to use the test patterns using the VE disc, and then try and display similar test partterns via the other inputs (such as displaying one of the patterns on your PC and adjusting that input, etc). Or perhaps play the VE disc on your computer to set that input. You can use the settings on the DVD input as a starting point for your other inputs.

Originally posted by neoikon
I personally leave the "perfect color" OFF. For me it seems to really screw up the colors and makes any "red shift" really pronounced. I just started with someone's previous post of color settings and changed them to taste. There are color patterns used to set the color levels. I'm no expert on how to use them or which are the best to use, but they do exist.

It's true that you use the VE disc to set the DVD input settings. Plus, each input has their own unique settings, which can be a little frustrating, since you can't necessarily use the VE disc. Though, you can learn how to use the test patterns using the VE disc, and then try and display similar test partterns via the other inputs (such as displaying one of the patterns on your PC and adjusting that input, etc). Or perhaps play the VE disc on your computer to set that input. You can use the settings on the DVD input as a starting point for your other inputs.

I realize that each input needs to be calibrated seperately. One of my questions is, is it worth it to connect the DVD player to my various inputs, including HDMI, and do the calibration? if I do this and reconnect each device to their respective ports, will the calibration that I peformed be skewed because of the internal signal processing of each device? If so, how much? Which brings me full circle to part of my original question which is will the settings be so off that it isn't worth connecting my DVD player to each input?

Originally posted by BigAl
If you are looking for discretes, supposedly you can get them from the Mits remote so if you have a learning remote you can set the mits to the discrete mode, learn the functions you need and set the remote back to normal.

I pulled this from a previous post on this forum... I haven't tried them yet as I don't yet have my TV:

"Set the slider switch to TV mode. Press and hold the power button and enter the code 090. Make sure to point the remote away from the TV as this will turn it on/off! The input devices, and power/reset, can now be selected as follows:

Power = power ON only
Stop = power OFF only
Pause = AV Reset

Pressing device followed by:
PIP/POP = ANT-DTV
PIP Device = INP-DTV
1 = input 1
2 = input 2
3 = input 3
4 = input 4
5 = component 1
6 = component 2
SQV = Input STB
QV = Input VGA
PIP CH Up = Ant-1
PIP CH Down = Ant-2"

Thanks for the info,

I'll give those a try.

Craig

Hi all,
Well, I pulled the trigger and got my 62725 from Magnolia/BestBuy about 2weeks ago. I had it delivered a week ago today, and spent until Sat night finishing pulling cables for my new speakers, setting up a temporary stand, cabling together all the new components (Harman Kardon Citation 16 amp, Denon 3805 AVR, Denon 3910 universal player, 2nd DVD/CD player, VHS player and Motorola HD STB). At 1:30 am Sunday morning it all finally came alive!!! - Absolutely Awesome!

The only issue that I have that I know of so far is that the image on the screen is tilted - ie: letter box/banners etc slope to the left about an inch. I have called for service and they will be out tomorrow. I do not have a DVE disk yet and am completely new to this technology, so maybe I could ask for your help in what else I might have the service guy look at/help with while he's here. I've only been able to watch a very limited amount in the last 2 days, so if anyone could list some of the known issues with this unit, I can ask the tech to check for them. I have read through most of this thread, but my time is very limited at the moment and many of the issues may be related to other devices et. - so any help with known issues just for this set would be very helpful while they are here tomorrow. I don't think I see any dead pixels, but without a test screen maybe I won't (I'll try the blue screen mentioned above) - should I have them dust the mirror/screen? Anything you'd have them look at/adjust if they were coming to your house tomorrow???

I'm attaching a couple of pix of the set-up process - I know the set-up won't get me on the cover of Architectural Digest or Home Interior Design, but it is only my attempt at a temporary solution until the guy who is going to build all our kitchen cabinets can build a matching entertainment center for this equipment/wall.

I'd appreciate your help!

Thanks,
Paul

Here's the next step - about 11:30 Sat night:

Originally posted by Snowbum
I realize that each input needs to be calibrated seperately. One of my questions is, is it worth it to connect the DVD player to my various inputs, including HDMI, and do the calibration? if I do this and reconnect each device to their respective ports, will the calibration that I peformed be skewed because of the internal signal processing of each device? If so, how much? Which brings me full circle to part of my original question which is will the settings be so off that it isn't worth connecting my DVD player to each input?

I believe each calibration will be off when you reconnect the original device after you calibrate with your DVD player. Even different DVD players have their unique processing flaws and require different calibration settings. This will be much more pronounced when switching the device to a VCR.

I have both a DVD Player and a DVD Recorder hooked up to Comp1 and Comp2, respectively. My settings for the DVD Recorder are much different as I use it exclusively to watch recorded SD television. For example, I have video noise reduction ON for the DVD Player, and OFF for the DVD Recorder. I also have the contrast and brightness higher for the DVD Recorder, since my personal preference is that it seems to help SD images.

I can only guess at an answer to your original question of whether an initial calibration is worth it. I think if you have a DVD player that is known to produce an accurate image, the calibration will at least eliminate anomalies originating in the tv itself, and serve as a good starting point.

Here's how it ended up the next morning - after waking up the kids crying at 1:30 am to the Eagle's Hell Freezes Over DVD - they thought we were having an earthquake or something!!:D

Here's one with it on:

Originally posted by 2left
I have both a DVD Player and a DVD Recorder hooked up to Comp1 and Comp2, respectively...
I have been thinking about getting a DVD recorder for use with my 62725. What kind do you have? Are you happy with it?

I'd like something that would connect to the 62725 via firewire and also record HD channels. I guess that might be a bit off...

-jb

Originally posted by PauldF
Here's one with it on:


I like your idea for the center channel. What did you use for the support poles?

Also, where did you get the concrete blocks?

Thanks to whoever posted the rebate info. Sounds great if it works. I just bought my WD62725 at The Camera Stop in South Jersey and they had just lowered the price $300 from the previous 3 weeks I was looking at it. It is now only $100 more than the WD62525 which they lowered $100. They said it was price wars with other manufacturers. If I get the extra $300 rebate that would be a major bonus!! This forum has been a great source of information. My WD62725 comes this Saturday.

Originally posted by jBeach
I have been thinking about getting a DVD recorder for use with my 62725. What kind do you have? Are you happy with it?

I'd like something that would connect to the 62725 via firewire and also record HD channels. I guess that might be a bit off...

-jb

I have a jvc dr-m10sl. I'm really happy with it and think it's great for the price. I won't go into detail that would take me out of the thread's topic, but it's heavily discussed in the dvd threads. Essentially a vcr replacement with much better pq. No hard disk and doesn't record in hd. Firewire only records dv input. Haven't checkout out whether it can be controlled by the Mits through the firewire.

Does anyone have an idea what the color wheel is like in this set? Is it an 8 segment one like in the Panny? Rotation speed on the wheel?

Also has anyone here on this forum has fan noise issues with the 725 set? I have a Panny now and after getting my second set, I have terible fan noise issues. At the store today I was able to hear the fan on this set, but that was putting my ear to it. Its impossible to tell what that noise would be from 8' away.

Originally posted by forkball
Does anyone have an idea what the color wheel is like in this set? Is it an 8 segment one like in the Panny? Rotation speed on the wheel?

Also has anyone here on this forum has fan noise issues with the 725 set? I have a Panny now and after getting my second set, I have terible fan noise issues. At the store today I was able to hear the fan on this set, but that was putting my ear to it. Its impossible to tell what that noise would be from 8' away.

7 segment color wheel...not sure about the rotation speed.

The fan noise is a "personal preference thing"...for some people it's too much, for others (like me) I rarely notice it. If you have a lot of ambient noise in you house, like kids, you won't notice it. If it's late at night and you're trying to watch TV at a real low volume in an otherwise quiet house, you'll notice it. There's also fans that run even when the set is off.

Can't change channels on 62725 Model.

I just got the CableCard hooked up by Comcast and have a problem. I can use the channel up down button to change channels, but I can't seem to type in a channel number to skip forward. If i type 89 for instance and press enter, nothing happens. This is an especially annoying problem since the internal tuner is so slow. Thanks for any help.

BMartin5150 - the uprights supporting the 50lb Paradigm CC570 center are 3/4" galanized pipes - spray painted black, threaded at each end and screwed into 3/4" galvanized stantion fittings screwed into the boards. All the materials including the blocks were purchased at my local HomeDepot.

Can anyone please help me with my initial question about any other things I might have the service tech look into tomorrow morning???? I'm running out of time and would love to make the most out of their visit!!!

Thanks,
PF

Originally posted by regulatorug
Can't change channels on 62725 Model.

I just got the CableCard hooked up by Comcast and have a problem. I can use the channel up down button to change channels, but I can't seem to type in a channel number to skip forward. If i type 89 for instance and press enter, nothing happens. This is an especially annoying problem since the internal tuner is so slow. Thanks for any help.

You will not be allowed to tune to a channel the CableCARD hasn't been authorized to unlock for viewing. Also, there are problems with some CableCARDs that won't even allow you to tune some channels you *are* authorized to view. Press the Guide button on the remote to see the list of channels the CableCARD is allowing access to. If 89 isn't there, then you can't tune it. BTW, you can use this guide to change channels by using the Adjust Up, Adjust Down and Enter keys.

Originally posted by delar
Do you use a Scientific Atlanta or Motorola CableCARD? I use an SA myself and cannot receive the music channels on my 52525. I do believe a firmware upgrade will fix the problem, but it will be a firmware upgrade to the CableCARD, administered by your cable company, and not the tv. SA is supposedly beta testing firmware that will hopefully fix this and other problems. Check the CableCARD sticky thread in the HD Hardware forum for more details.

I use a Motorola CableCard. I guess I'll ask Charter Cable to take another look at it, or I'll live without the music channels.

Originally posted by regulatorug
Can't change channels on 62725 Model.

I just got the CableCard hooked up by Comcast and have a problem. I can use the channel up down button to change channels, but I can't seem to type in a channel number to skip forward. If i type 89 for instance and press enter, nothing happens. This is an especially annoying problem since the internal tuner is so slow. Thanks for any help.

I don't think that's possible with the Mits. I have to enter the numbers, and then just wait for the channel to change (about 3 seconds). If I hit enter, it clears the number.

Originally posted by PauldF
Can anyone please help me with my initial question about any other things I might have the service tech look into tomorrow morning???? I'm running out of time and would love to make the most out of their visit!!! Sure, there is an entire thread (pretty much) devoted to that issue....
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=439889
Bottom line is Mits apparently knows how to fix it, make sure your tech calls Mits for the "fix". I don't think you'll want to watch the procedure though....

Interesting... I have a very similar setup - same speakers, same receiver, same STB. Differences are: I have the WD-52525, Denon DVD-2910, and I use the Denon 3805 amps - no separate amp.

Originally posted by 2left
I don't think that's possible with the Mits. I have to enter the numbers, and then just wait for the channel to change (about 3 seconds). If I hit enter, it clears the number.

That doesn't sound right. I have no problem using the enter key (small round grey key in center of remote) to initiate a channel change. Beats having to wait the few seconds it takes the Mits to change it. Have you tried resetting your remote? FWIW, I have version 4.02 firmware.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
Last night when watching TV, all of the sudden, a grid of colored vertical lines appeared in the picture. It happened first on a digital SD channel so I switched to analog and then subsequently an HD channel. It was there on all of them. I switched to a component input and the lines were all over the TV menus and the other inputs. They were all evenly spaced and multi-colored and formed somewhat of a grid across the screen. I reset the TV and turned it off/on twice but the lines persisted. After about 10 minutes, they all went away and everything was normal. Anyone see something similar?

This was clearly not a tuner issue as the lines were present on all inputs and menus. I've sent email to Mitsubishi this morning about this. It has happened three times now. The first two times, the lines were there for maybe 30 seconds and I attributed to the source as being an issue. This time, they were there for quite a bit of time. Well, lets see what they have to say about this...

Had the same problem with a Sammy 4663. Powering the set down and restarting it restored proper operation.

Originally posted by delar
That doesn't sound right. I have no problem using the enter key (small round grey key in center of remote) to initiate a channel change. Beats having to wait the few seconds it takes the Mits to change it. Have you tried resetting your remote? FWIW, I have version 4.02 firmware.

You know, you're absolutely right. I haven't tried it since the first day my tv arrived because I thought it didn't work. Thanks, delar.

I've had my 52725 for about a month now. I just started noticing fan noise AFTER the tv has been shut down for a while. Its not the fan noise near the bulb on the left. This is a fan on the lower right toward the inputs. Anyone else hear this? It's very faint but seems to be on all the time.
Is this normal?

Thanks

Yes, it is normal. One fan stays on even when the set is turned off. It supposedly keeps cool circuitry that is operating continuously.

They delivered my 62725 last night and I have it set up temporarily on three milk crates and a 56" X 20" X 2" thick formica covered piece of countertop. It's too low and I'll begin working on a proper stand very soon as I have the 3/4" birch plywood in the shop.

On the plus side I have to say the picture is awesome, totally glad I went with the 62" over the 52" in this room. SWMBO thought the size was too big at first, but after watching some HD stuff last night she said its growing on her! I should note that the picture is not tilted whatsoever.

On the minus side, the signal in my house doesn't appear to be optimized because some HD channels come in perfect and others occassionally pixelate. The owner of the place where I bought it personally delivered the set and he said I should try changing the cable from the wall outlet to the set because it was a RG59, so I ran out and bought a RCA Digital cable which is pretty much the same as a Monster double insulated cable. The phenomena improved but is not 100% gone. I talked to him on the phone and he said the next thing to do is call Comcast and have them come out and check the signal strength at the drop. We have underground cables from the street (no poles) and our cable could be 15 years old. He siad they can up the signal at the box to about 10dB, and cautioned going over that. He also said that if I intend to split the signal, use the starburst concept rather than daisy-chaining sets on one line.

But overall... the picture and even the sound (without my A/V even connected) was excellent. Using the built-in tuner is a little slow, but I can live with that.

Score one for Mitsubishi.

Capt Mike

Posted as a separate thread also. Need answer quickly.

It is 8:15 EST, Thursday. Need answer asap if anyone knows. My Mits 62725 comes this morning and I need some quick help. When looking at the front of the unit which side is the back panel located on? Should be the same on all models. Need to know for cable length issue.

They are on the left lower side when looking at the rear of the set on the 52725, and should be the same on the 62725

Originally posted by rjg41
Posted as a separate thread also. Need answer quickly.

It is 8:15 EST, Thursday. Need answer asap if anyone knows. My Mits 62725 comes this morning and I need some quick help. When looking at the front of the unit which side is the back panel located on? Should be the same on all models. Need to know for cable length issue.

When looking from the front, the connections will be found on the back right portion of the TV. So as you look from the back, it will be on your left....

Hope that helps...

-Randy

I am still not sure whether to keep this set with these halos, how are the rest of you living with them? Maybe I should try another replacement?

rjg41,

If you mean the jack pack.... it is located on the right side of the back panel, when looking at the TV from the front.

Oops, IFLYSWA beat me to it. He's flying :)

Thanks. That's what I guessed so I don't have to move anything---again.

Originally posted by scpanel
I am still not sure whether to keep this set with these halos, how are the rest of you living with them? Maybe I should try another replacement?

I really don't have much of a problem with them. I have seen a really bad green outline on the left side of images only once. The most disturbing thing I have seen is was when watching Survivor recorded on my Comcast-provided Moto 6208 off of a digital feed....rainbows were simply EVERYWHERE! It was very odd....I normally only see them when looking away from the set, in the normal high contrast situations. But on this particular show it was really scary. If I saw them like that on everything I'd have no choice but to take it back. I'm anxious to see how things look tonight on the same show......

-Randy

I have not noticed halos enough to be a problem for me....

Hey, I have asked this question before, but now that people have had more time with their 725's I want to ask it again because I can't get a straight answer out of Mits.

Has anyone successfully "learned" the remote for more than one device in NetCommand? I have 2 different sattelite receivers, neither of which are a pre-programmed manufacturer...so I have added each device as type "other" which gives me the option to "learn" the remote commands. I can learn one device's remote buttons and it works fine. When I go to learn the remote for the next device, it always appears as if the buttons have already been learned (the same button boxes are checked that I learned for the 1st device). If I go ahead and learn each button, it overrides the buttons learned for the first device. So, it seems like NetCommand is only able to "learn" one remote. Surely this cannot be the case.

Can anyone else confirm this behavior? Thanks so much.

SK8_MD:

How does your PC PQ look in PIP? I think you were the one using the DVI->HDMI connection at least.
I'm using Madsen's Powerstrip timings and the PQ looks great full screen, but not viewable in PIP.

MELONHEAD

Originally posted by scpanel
I am still not sure whether to keep this set with these halos, how are the rest of you living with them? Maybe I should try another replacement?

For the most part I don't think the halos I see are too bad. They are visible mostly on sd content, and worse on some channels and on some days than others. My feeling is that sd images will always have some problems. It is mostly not visible on hd content, and even when its there on hd (like on Tonight Show), it's just a very thin green line. I wonder if its caused by that pink backdrop behind Jay Leno . . .?

Originally posted by boristhedog
Has anyone successfully "learned" the remote for more than one device in NetCommand? I have 2 different sattelite receivers, neither of which are a pre-programmed manufacturer...so I have added each device as type "other" which gives me the option to "learn" the remote commands. I can learn one device's remote buttons and it works fine. When I go to learn the remote for the next device, it always appears as if the buttons have already been learned (the same button boxes are checked that I learned for the 1st device). If I go ahead and learn each button, it overrides the buttons learned for the first device. So, it seems like NetCommand is only able to "learn" one remote. Surely this cannot be the case.

Can anyone else confirm this behavior? Thanks so much.

I have programmed my receiver, vcr, pc, dvd player and dvd recorder into NetCommand. I don't know if it makes a difference, but I added and "learned" each device one by one. I didn't add them all, then go back and learn each of them. I added each device as "other."

Originally posted by 2left
I have programmed my receiver, vcr, pc, dvd player and dvd recorder into NetCommand. I don't know if it makes a difference, but I added and "learned" each device one by one. I didn't add them all, then go back and learn each of them. I added each device as "other."

Hmmm....don't think I've tried that. I think I've always done a "change" after adding each as other. I'll try deleting them all and re-adding them one by one. Thanks for the suggestion.

boristhedog,

You can only have one device learned per input, I'm assuming you have these two recievers coming into separate inputs, correct?

I haven't tried to setup NC with this type of arrangement so bear with me on this...

If you have the sat rcvrs on sept inputs then it sounds like NC may only allow one Sat box device... try this work around, add the second sat box as a cable box.

Originally posted by 2left
For the most part I don't think the halos I see are too bad. They are visible mostly on sd content, and worse on some channels and on some days than others. My feeling is that sd images will always have some problems. It is mostly not visible on hd content, and even when its there on hd (like on Tonight Show), it's just a very thin green line. I wonder if its caused by that pink backdrop behind Jay Leno . . .?

My experience is the same. I pretty much decided to live with them the day I went to my parents house and was watching some CNN. They had a simple Toshiba 27 inch 4:3 direct view CRT and I looked hard for the green halo in places I see it worst on my Mits. Sure enough, I saw a very faint green outline on the left side of a womans head when she was in front of a blue backdrop. When I pointed it out, others noticed it too, albeit barely.

Originally posted by BigAl
boristhedog,

You can only have one device learned per input, I'm assuming you have these two recievers coming into separate inputs, correct?

I haven't tried to setup NC with this type of arrangement so bear with me on this...

If you have the sat rcvrs on sept inputs then it sounds like NC may only allow one Sat box device... try this work around, add the second sat box as a cable box.

They are on different inputs....my setup is:
"HD-SAT" - Samsung 360 Directv recvr - on MONLINK (HDMI) input
"TIVO" - Hughes DirecTV DVR - on Input 2

So, I origianlly added both as type "DBS/Other", but I've also tried (like you suggested) to add the Tivo box as a "cable box/Other" thinking that it might only be able to learn one device per type (DBS/cable/dvd etc.), but that didn't work either. It's behaving like it can only learn one "Other", but 2left says otherwise...good.

(BTW, I also have the Samsung on INPUT-DTV component input, just for HDMI-Component comparison)

So, I don't think I have tried what 2left did...that is add and "learn" one at a time. I'll try it tonight and report back. Thanks!!

boristhedog
You said you have your Samsung on component and HDMI for comparison-so how do you compare them.

Originally posted by pjr
boristhedog
You said you have your Samsung on component and HDMI for comparison-so how do you compare them.

This is actually my 2nd 62725....on the first one, I swear the compnent looked better than HDMI. I noticed random white dots (pixel size) with the HDMI connection...the connector fit seemed good, so I'm not sure what it was. Anyway, with my new set, it's much harder to tell the difference. I last changed it to HDMI and have left that way for now and have not been compelled to switch it back. I probably should try it again since I've got a pretty good impression in my head of what the HDMI input looks like.

It's sort of a pain to switch back and forth quickly because AFAIK you have to push the button on the front of the Samsung box to get it to switch between it's DVI output and component (I haven't found a button on the Sammy remote to do it). So, it's a "Mits-device-switch-->Sammy-button-push-->step-back-->look" process and repeat to compare.

Its worse on the Directv HD DVR. If you have HDMI connected, the component is disabled so you have to actually disconnect the HDMI. At least that is what the directions say, as I am still looking for a TV.

boristhedog, Learned Remote...

I have a combination DVD and VCR, each of which I have successfully programmed into the Netcommand. Most of the functions (FF, Pause, etc.) are the same, but some buttons are unique. I accomplished this with a bunch of trial and error, but I think the main point is to make sure each device has a unique name. In my case I added two devices, one DVD player and the other was added as a VCR. When I first tried to add this as a single device, I experienced some of what you described. Actually makes sense when you think about it since for a given device there can only be one individual learned function per button.

If ensuring each device has a unique name does not work, try identifying one as something other than a satellite receiver. Lastly I noticed that once you program a function into a button, you can not simple re-learn that button. You must first "clear" the button and then re-teach the NetCommand for the new function to be programmed into the button that had a previous code you are now trying to replace.

I actually am very happy w/ NetCommand. If I use it to switch to say my DVD, the TV will switch to the DVD input, turn on my audio amp, change it to the DVD input, (misses it by one since my AVR is not the exact one on the pre-programmed list), and turns on the DVD player. Next I will try to tech the NetCommand the functions for my exact AVR, and how to go get a cold one.

Originally posted by TomTx
Learned Remote...

[snip]


OK, I'm encouraged that it "can" be done (no surprise). I love NetCommand too (in theory)....I just need it to work....still experimenting with IR-emitter placement etc.

BTW, just got off the phone with Mits. about the "bright spot" issue. They are adament about it being "normal" and "will vary from set to set". I disagree, but we are at a stand-off. Not sure what to do.

Also, I asked about my recent "reset" issues and they are sending me the latested software. Which I already have, of course, but they claim that a re-install of the same version has been reported to fix some of these issues. So, I'll give it shot.

This may be a stupid question but is there a way to get the Device Up/Dn button to just cycle through the inputs or does the screen with icons always have to show up to switch between inputs?

Originally posted by boristhedog
This is actually my 2nd 62725....on the first one, I swear the compnent looked better than HDMI. I noticed random white dots (pixel size) with the HDMI connection...the connector fit seemed good, so I'm not sure what it was. Anyway, with my new set, it's much harder to tell the difference. I last changed it to HDMI and have left that way for now and have not been compelled to switch it back. I probably should try it again since I've got a pretty good impression in my head of what the HDMI input looks like.

It's sort of a pain to switch back and forth quickly because AFAIK you have to push the button on the front of the Samsung box to get it to switch between it's DVI output and component (I haven't found a button on the Sammy remote to do it). So, it's a "Mits-device-switch-->Sammy-button-push-->step-back-->look" process and repeat to compare.

It is good to hear that the TV swap took care of the white "sparkles" on the HDMI input. I am expecting my repalcement 62725 to arrive next Wednesday. I am hoping that will resolve my sparkle and line issue when viewing programming via my HDMI port. Wish me luck.

Originally posted by IronHorse
On the minus side, the signal in my house doesn't appear to be optimized because some HD channels come in perfect and others occasionally pixelate. The owner of the place where I bought it personally delivered the set and he said I should try changing the cable from the wall outlet to the set because it was a RG59,
Capt Mike


Hope the comcast tech is able to get it resolved for you. This pixilation can be cause from a variety of sources.

- Low Signal of the QAM carrier (Digital TV Signal) coming into your cable box

- Poor Signal to Noise Ratio- This can be something that originates outside the house on the main lines or even at the headend (Transmit site of your cable company). Most of the cable boxes have diagnostics that allow the tech to determine if signals are within spec.

- Ingress- This is when an outside signal source gets into the cable through a weak spot (crack in the cable, loose connectors, etc) and interferes with the signal that your cable company provides.

-Bad cable box- Converters have been known to go bad and might need to be swapped out.

If you do have old scabby cable coming to your house or inside the house it might be a good idea to get it replaced. There is nothing wrong with 59 cable. As long as the shielding (the cables ability to block out interfering signals) is intact the cable is good. Granted 59 cable is higher loss but if you have the correct amount of signal coming into your converter box you will be fine.

If the pixilation happens regularly then there is a good chance of getting it remedied. If you notice it happening once or twice in a whole night of watching TV then a resolution might be longer in coming.

Hope this helps

Got our new 62725 Tuesday and what a TV! We got the TV as a replacement for a Pioneer pro 520HDI, (hint...don't ever, ever buy anything from Pioneer). The only bad part about the TV is 2 of the component inputs, (2 & DTV), don't work at all, looks almost like they aren't hooked up inside the set. Should get a replacement any day. But I am real happy with the PQ. I have read here and elsewhere that the DLP is good, but not as good as the CRT sets, I have to disagree. Supposedly the Pro520HDI is the best CRT and let me tell you the Mits is better in all respects, blacks, color, HD you name it it beats the Pioneer hands down. Thanks for all the good info. You all helped me make the decision to switch to the Mits from the Sami 5674, (which may never come). Now if I can just get a TV that will lasy for more than 6 months!

Originally posted by Noah Body
Hope the comcast tech is able to get it resolved for you. This pixilation can be cause from a variety of sources.
. . .

Noah Body - I always assumed compression of the signal was the cause of my poor cable HD PQ on ESPN-HD. You don't list compression as a possible culprit - only things that can be fixed by a technician. This would be encouraging news for me as Adelphia has promised to look into boosting my signal at some point nearer to the headend.

Edit - I called Adelphia and they said they are scheduled to actually replace part of an underground line by my house. I'm surprised and impressed (if it actually happens and works).

Originally posted by robn77
This may be a stupid question but is there a way to get the Device Up/Dn button to just cycle through the inputs or does the screen with icons always have to show up to switch between inputs?

Yes, the device icon screen always has to come up... but you can remove devices from the list so it's as quick as possible to switch from one device to another. Just go into netcommand "review" and uncheck the devices you want removed.

Originally posted by Melonhead11
SK8_MD:

How does your PC PQ look in PIP? I think you were the one using the DVI->HDMI connection at least.
I'm using Madsen's Powerstrip timings and the PQ looks great full screen, but not viewable in PIP.

MELONHEAD

Yes, I am using a DVI to HDMI connection from my PC. The PC PQ is good in a PIP. Text looks good a crisp in the split screen mode but gets a little hard to read in the smaller PIPs.
I'm using the standard 1280x720 and living with the overscan . When I have tried Powerstrip, I always got a poorer image. I suspect this has something to do with my dated, Ti4200, video card.

Noah Body...

Thanks for the feedback...

I'm just using the 62725's integral tuner. I don't have a Comcast cable box and I'm considering trying to just use the set, or at worst... use a cablecard if nothing else helps.

Based on your analysis, I'm guessing the problem is outside my house, although I will install a better splitter tonight to see if that helps. The pixelization seems to be on the first "digital" channel which is one of the PBS stations here. There are three digital PBS stations, and then the CBS, Fox, and NBC channels follow that. The 1st PBS channel is no t HD and the pixelization is so bad you can't really watch. I occassionally see alittle flicker of pixelization around the middle of the screen in CBS (I think) but its so infrequent that a half hour can go by before I see it again.

I have to call and note that I also get some occassional lip-sync mistmatch on live HD news shows, and also tell them about the pixelization.

Otherwise, this set is awesome.



Hope the comcast tech is able to get it resolved for you. This pixilation can be cause from a variety of sources.

- Low Signal of the QAM carrier (Digital TV Signal) coming into your cable box

- Poor Signal to Noise Ratio- This can be something that originates outside the house on the main lines or even at the headend (Transmit site of your cable company). Most of the cable boxes have diagnostics that allow the tech to determine if signals are within spec.

- Ingress- This is when an outside signal source gets into the cable through a weak spot (crack in the cable, loose connectors, etc) and interferes with the signal that your cable company provides.

-Bad cable box- Converters have been known to go bad and might need to be swapped out.

If you do have old scabby cable coming to your house or inside the house it might be a good idea to get it replaced. There is nothing wrong with 59 cable. As long as the shielding (the cables ability to block out interfering signals) is intact the cable is good. Granted 59 cable is higher loss but if you have the correct amount of signal coming into your converter box you will be fine.

If the pixilation happens regularly then there is a good chance of getting it remedied. If you notice it happening once or twice in a whole night of watching TV then a resolution might be longer in coming.

Hope this helps.

I have seen references to the presence of a thin colored vertical line, and I seem to have this as well. Only see it on SD but it seems to becoming more pronounced. I've attached a screen shot. The color of the line seems to be related to either the predominent background color or subject color. Thoughts?

I would be on the phone w/Mits. When you change channels does it follow? Its hard to see, does it go from top to bottom? or only the face area?

The line goes from top to bottom in a fixed location but is only visible when the underlying background is light enough. Here is another example I just noticed. Seems to some sort of bleed from a nearby saturated color.

Originally posted by SK8_MD
Yes, I am using a DVI to HDMI connection from my PC. The PC PQ is good in a PIP. Text looks good a crisp in the split screen mode but gets a little hard to read in the smaller PIPs.
I'm using the standard 1280x720 and living with the overscan . When I have tried Powerstrip, I always got a poorer image. I suspect this has something to do with my dated, Ti4200, video card.

Have you tried viewing the computer in split screen when connected via VGA? It's quite unreadable on my 52525. I might have to give the HDMI connection a try after all if text is as clear as you say it is in split screen. It was a feature I was looking forward to using. However, overscan would be unacceptable.

Originally posted by scpanel
I am still not sure whether to keep this set with these halos, how are the rest of you living with them? Maybe I should try another replacement?

I am not sure what you mean by halos. I guess if I don't notice anything that is a good thing.

Hello -

I came home from work today and found the green Power LED fast blinking on my 62725. This is the same blinking that you get when you first plug in the set. The blinking has continued for over 1/2 hour. I tried the reset button and unplugging the TV for 5 minutes and then plugging it back in. In both cases the blinking continues endlessness. The set will not turn on. Anyone else experience this?

Dean

Fast blinking green LED is for power up purposes only, after a power loss. The slow blinking is the cool down afte the set is turned off.

Perhaps your internal firmware is hosed?

Have you tried removing all I/O connection? Perhaps it is hanging up on a signal from one of the inputs?

The fast blinking should only last 1 minute, then you can turn on the set. How long was your TV working before this happened?
Will a reset even stop the blinking while you are holding it in?

Oh, and was there lightning while you where away at work? :o

I removed all I/O connections and reset again. The fast blinking continues. I've had the TV for two weeks. All has been working fine until tonight. If I press and hold in the reset button the blinking stops. When I release the reset button the blinking starts. It has been about 15 minutes since I last pressed the reset and the LED is still blinking. No lightning as far as I know.

My unit arrive yesterday. $60 delivery charge included basic setup including my remote(not NetCommand).

Picture is great OTB but ill likely do some tweeking with a setup DVD. Have a Channel Master antenna set up and good signal for all but one channel. The antenna is at ground level right now so when it gets up on the roof that should be fixed.

No tilt. No bright spot that I see. No initial operational problems.

We'll see what the future brings.

Originally posted by BB_Mike
Fast blinking green LED is for power up purposes only, after a power loss. The slow blinking is the cool down afte the set is turned off.

Perhaps your internal firmware is hosed?

Have you tried removing all I/O connection? Perhaps it is hanging up on a signal from one of the inputs?

The fast blinking should only last 1 minute, then you can turn on the set. How long was your TV working before this happened?
Will a reset even stop the blinking while you are holding it in?

Oh, and was there lightning while you where away at work? :o

I think its time to call Mits, sounds like a lightengine startup problem.

Originally posted by MacWino
The line goes from top to bottom in a fixed location but is only visible when the underlying background is light enough. Here is another example I just noticed. Seems to some sort of bleed from a nearby saturated color.

This seems to look like the halo problem I am having only worse. When I look at the same red arrow, the red inside the white triangle is shifted to the right about 1/4 inch. What is interesting though is the red in your picture doesn't appear to be bleeding to the right, but it sure is suspicious.

Need some comments. OTB my contrast was set at max(63). Ran the calibration DVD I have(Sound & Vision Home Theater Tune-Up, Ovation Software) and the contrast setup shows that my contrast should be even higher. Considering the contrast setting others have indicated something doesn't sound right.

It seems weird to me that these DLPs only have (1) HDMI input. And, they don't have any DVI (I know they can be connected to HDMI w/ a diff cable). Why wouldn't they give us 2 of each or something? Right now I've got a HDTiVo & a DVI DVD player to connect - but have to choose one... It seems the number of connections was 'out-dated' before it was even released.

Originally posted by MacWino
I have seen references to the presence of a thin colored vertical line, and I seem to have this as well. Only see it on SD but it seems to becoming more pronounced. I've attached a screen shot. The color of the line seems to be related to either the predominent background color or subject color. Thoughts?

The line that I get is horizontal not vertical but very similar to the one that have. It appears to happen on both SD and HD channels via the HDMI port only. My DVD player, connected via component, and my Tivo, connected via the S-video port, do not display this line. In addition, I also get white sparkles. Tweeter is coming out Wednesday to replace the set. Hopefully there will not be any issues with this unit.

Help me!!!! I have DirecTV and a Samsung 360 HD receiver. DirecTV also installed a powered OTA HD antenna on my roof to receive local HD broadcasts. Initially all my local HD channels came in perfectly. After about two days I lost them. They would come in very pixelated or not at all. I have two HD boxes and this occurs on both units. This was originally connected to a 5 X 8 multiswitch. I called the manufacturer of the switch and they told me it should work fine. It was my thought that maybe the signal strength from the antennae input was too weak since it was being split eight ways. In order to address this I decided to disconnect the cable coming from the antennae and just split it two ways using a cable splitter and a couple of diplexers. This seemed to work for a few days but then the same problem occurred. I then decided to switch out the diplexers and currently I am able to get all local HD channels on one TV and on the other I get all but one channel. Also, I am only about eight miles from the broadcast towers. I am at my wits end.

Is there anyone else who has two HD DirecTV boxes and an OTA antennae that either has this working successfully or is experiencing the same issue I am?

Originally posted by Snowbum
Help me!!!! I have DirecTV and a Samsung 360 HD receiver. DirecTV also installed a powered OTA HD antenna on my roof to receive local HD broadcasts. Initially all my local HD channels came in perfectly. After about two days I lost them. They would come in very pixelated or not at all. I have two HD boxes and this occurs on both units. This was originally connected to a 5 X 8 multiswitch. I called the manufacturer of the switch and they told me it should work fine. It was my thought that maybe the signal strength from the antennae input was too weak since it was being split eight ways. In order to address this I decided to disconnect the cable coming from the antennae and just split it two ways using a cable splitter and a couple of diplexers. This seemed to work for a few days but then the same problem occurred. I then decided to switch out the diplexers and currently I am able to get all local HD channels on one TV and on the other I get all but one channel. Also, I am only about eight miles from the broadcast towers. I am at my wits end.

Is there anyone else who has two HD DirecTV boxes and an OTA antennae that either has this working successfully or is experiencing the same issue I am?

I have 2 Directv boxes (but only 1 is HD). I also have an OTA antenna (2 actually).....30 miles from the towers. So, I have 3 coax from the dish (2 into my Directv Tivo, 1 into Samsung 360 HD). I also have 1 coax from my 2 antennas, that is the result of combining them at the source, then I split them in the house to go to the OTA tuner in the Samsung and the OTA tuner in the 62725 (ANT-1). A get all OTA channels on both tuners. I don't believe there's a switch for the "dish" coax cables, I think there's 3 coming directly off the dish.

I'm not sure if my setup is exactly like yours...I used a simple coax splitter to send my antenna feed to both my tuners and it appears to work fine.

I have a similar setup and also had to split and diplex the OTA signal around the multiswitch. I had some luck with a powered amplifier before the split. I am 35 miles away from the towers and most days I get decent OTA reception. In certain weather, I may have reception issues.

A short while back someone posted how you could get to a hidden OTA signal meter. Tried several searches of the thread but no luck. Can anyone help. Also, please note my question on contrast settings above. Still need some comments on that. Thanks.

I just got my 725 today and am looking to reduce clutter. Can I run the center speaker wire from my Denon 3805 to a sound input jack and expect quality center speaker sound?

I was going to do the same thing but would up finding a way to use my existing center speaker.

While I did not actually try it based on what I learned ,assuming you current speaker system is not some special matched system, the answer is yes. While the audiophiles would have some quams it should be fine...but you must provide the input for the speakers from a pre-amp signal if your receiver has one for the center speaker. If you use an amplified output from you reveiver it will not work. Connect one input to the mono side.

Originally posted by rjg41
A short while back someone posted how you could get to a hidden OTA signal meter. Tried several searches of the thread but no luck. Can anyone help. Also, please note my question on contrast settings above. Still need some comments on that. Thanks.

The signal strength meter can be found (while you're on a digital channel) by looking at the "option" service menu, that is:

TVMENU-2-4-7-0

The scale appears to be 0-10. I don't recommend chaning anything in that menu.

Just wanted to say thanks to all in this forum for the valuable informaion that led to my WD-52725 purchase. A great TV, but it has a little "glitch:" I'm getting a series of thin black, evenly-spaced, vertical lines appearing on the display. (Best way to describe it is -- looks like a blank sheet of tablet paper, turned sideways.) On a blank screen tey are always visible. While viewing a picture, they appear in the background. They are independent of input, i.e. they appear on cable, VCR tape, DVD, and the TV's menu, etc. Made a service call to have a tech take a look. But I thought I'd pass this by the experts on this forum, before the tech arrives. Thanks for the help.

Originally posted by jaanj
Just wanted to say thanks to all in this forum for the valuable informaion that led to my WD-52725 purchase. A great TV, but it has a little "glitch:" I'm getting a series of thin black, evenly-spaced, vertical lines appearing on the display. (Best way to describe it is -- looks like a blank sheet of tablet paper, turned sideways.) On a blank screen tey are always visible. While viewing a picture, they appear in the background. They are independent of input, i.e. they appear on cable, VCR tape, DVD, and the TV's menu, etc. Made a service call to have a tech take a look. But I thought I'd pass this by the experts on this forum, before the tech arrives. Thanks for the help.

I have this problem as well... it happened two days ago and lasted for a day or two... the problem all of the sudden went away and now the TV is fine. I took some screen shots and sent them to my service center showing him this. Mitsubishi has authorized the service center to replace the main chassis. I don't think the problem exists with the chassis though. I think the light engine is flaky. You will see that the lines are exactly one pixel wide and it seems as if the mirrors on the DMD are switching on/off incorrectly. Anyhow, the service center may just tell the store to replace the TV so I don't know yet... email me if you find anything new: nauman76@gmail.com ... thanks!

Well, after seeing talking to someone w/the new sammy, and hearing of them still having audio sync issues, I am thinking i can live with the halos. Not sure what to try next.

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!! Thanks, 2left!

I finally was able to "learn" more than one remote. It seems you HAVE to learn when you add. Then add another device and "learn". This still makes no sense, you should be able to go back and l earn remotes, especially since the "help" says you can skip the learn process and do it later. That NEVER worked for me. Anyway, thanks again...it now works.

scpanel - sorry to see you go (especially since you started this thread!) Good luck with the Sammy.

At this point, I'm still pretty happy with with my 62725. There is a number of us trying to get a resolution on the "brght spot" issue, but other than that....it's wonderful.

Guys,

I have read through most of this thread in the past few days and have to say good job disseminating all the info. I bought my 62725 about 28 days ago basically because I liked the display quality on the showroom display (Home Theater Store in Houston) and because I am very familiar with the Mitsubishi brand. I bought the set as a replacement for my Diamond 65907 projector.

Now a few observations:

1. I too have the exact same slightly illuminated spot visible on black screen and dimly lit room pictured in earlier posts. I am certain its due to leakage of light from the light box. In fact I can see small unsealed spaces in the box where light is leaking from.

2. My screen geometry is OK for the most part (No tilt), however there is some bowing in the center of the image (out slightly at the top and bottom). I read somewhere in this thread that this is likely due to minor lens distortion. I'm kind of a nut for geometric accuracy but its not unbearable. Maybe there is an adjustment for this. I'm not sure that the mechanical keystone adjustment will fix this.

3. Having read through the problems identified here I have some concerns. I'm really glad I got the extended warranty, and I'm worried that my set may not be too reliable. I guess I feel really lucky that my set has performed flawlessly for it's 220+ hours.

I'll be really anxious to hear what Mitsubishi has to say about the light box leakage issue.

Thanks again to all the contributers and experts in this forum.

I was just on the Mits web site and read the new spec sheet for the WD-52725. It states in the spec sheet that the Tv Guide interface is included just like it is in the 825 series. I've read through out this thread that it has been with drawn from all the sets except the 825 series but it's in the spec sheet for the 725 series. So my question is which is right ?? The spec sheet says it's there and included but I've had some reps say it's not. I know that it was deleted in the old spec sheet on the old web site but it's now included in the new spec sheet on the new web site. So........ what's the real story ????

The guide comes up on my 725 and shows the channels, but not the programming.

The guide comes up on my 725 and shows the channels, but not the programming.

Ditto!

Wish it did!

Originally posted by scpanel
The guide comes up on my 725 and shows the channels, but not the programming.

Actually, I think Mikef5 is referring to the TV Guide online, not the basic on-screen guide. It is showing to be there on the new spec sheet. I still don't think it will happen in the 725 series, though. Mits knocked the price down some on the 725 series, I believe, due to removing this feature. It would be a pleasant surprise if they ended up adding it through some kind of firmware update, though!!!

-Randy

Ok, I reread the new spec sheet and it does say Tv Guide interface but there is a disclaimer that the specs are tentative and subject to change.... darn !!!
I can't understand why Mits doesn't have this integrated into their set like most of the other manufacturers do. It's important to me because I'd like to use the cable-card feature and since it's a one way device you lose the program menu of your cable company so no program information. If they are going to upgrade the 825 series for Tv Guide why can't they do it for the 725, if it's only a dispute between Mits and the guide provider about money ???

I just got my 52725 and a Time Warner (Scientific Atlanta) STB/DVR. I can't seem to remove the closed captioning. It's on all the time on my component input. Appears to work correctly when I switch to tv tuner.

Any suggestions?

Ok, went Avia setup and then even got into the service menu for the horizontal and vertical adjustments and changed some of those values, but is there a way to correct for overscan on this set?

Not from what I see, plus I had a tech out this week and he told me that there is really nothing they can do about geometry/overscan other than the minimal adjustments that can be made to correct the Hor and Ver axis from the front of the set, which I find hard to believe.

I dont think anyone here has been able to adjust overscan, at least not yet.

Originally posted by Mikef5
Ok, I reread the new spec sheet and it does say Tv Guide interface but there is a disclaimer that the specs are tentative and subject to change.... darn !!!
I can't understand why Mits doesn't have this integrated into their set like most of the other manufacturers do. It's important to me because I'd like to use the cable-card feature and since it's a one way device you lose the program menu of your cable company so no program information. If they are going to upgrade the 825 series for Tv Guide why can't they do it for the 725, if it's only a dispute between Mits and the guide provider about money ???

This has been the only thing stopping me from buying this tv. It is why I am now leaning towards the Toshiba 52HMX94 which does have the TV Guide.

Originally posted by IFLYSWA
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by scpanel
The guide comes up on my 725 and shows the channels, but not the programming.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Actually, I think Mikef5 is referring to the TV Guide online, not the basic on-screen guide. It is showing to be there on the new spec sheet. I still don't think it will happen in the 725 series, though. Mits knocked the price down some on the 725 series, I believe, due to removing this feature. It would be a pleasant surprise if they ended up adding it through some kind of firmware update, though!!!

-Randy

That would be great and if Mitsubishi came out and said for sure that they WOULD add it later by a firmware upgrade I would buy the WD52725.
What good is having access to 200+ channels via cablecard if you don't know what's on them?


Jeff

Has anyone spoken to someone higher in the food chain other than the phone reps at Mitsubishi and ask the reason for dropping the Tv Guide feature from the 725 series ??? It just seems totally senseless not to include it. Every other manufacturer includes it in their integrated tuner sets, heck, even RCA includes it. So the it's seems that the premier maker of televison sets, the Cadillac of tv's doesn't ???? What's wrong with that picture ????

I just got my 62725 delivered yesterday from Ultimate Electronics locally here in the Phx Valley. The TV seems fine except for one issue. While looking at the menus on the HDTIVO or watching a movie that has black bars still, i notice that the lower right of the screen bows up horizontally and left vertically. It seems like a slight barrel distortion in that corner. It starts at about 1/3 from the right and continues to the right edge in the lower corner. If i could take a picture it'd be easier to show. Am I just too picky? I would think that a digital TV would be perfectly square and symmetrical, similar to an LCD computer screen.

It bothers me most when watching movies because the bottom black bar isn't straight across. Is this something tunable or should i request a replacement TV?

Thx guys..

Well...here's another glitch with my 52725. I was watching a football game in HD and noticed the grass/turf exhibited a fluorescent/glowing tint to it like the Auto Color setting (which I don't use) usually does. So I went into the Perfect Color menu, and confirmed that everything was as I left it (Auto was not checked). Since I didn't see anything out of whack, I then checked the Auto color box to see how it would affect the display, and it didn't change anything. I then unchecked it and the display was corrected (no more fluorescent/glowing tint to the greens)!

So in essence, the display was presenting the Auto color settings even though it was not checked, and I had to toggle it to get the display back to normal. Anybody else experience this???

Mikef5, as mentioned in earlier posts the TV guide feature was left out of the 725 due to integration issues with Gemstar's TV guide and Mitsubishi's netcommand. This came from our mitsu sales rep (I work at SoundTrack) and the mitsu trainers who brought us up to speed on the '05 mitsu lineup.

It wasn't dropped due to a cost issue, it was decision based on a need to get the TV into production prior to the holiday season. The decision NOT to provide firmware upgrades for the 725 series was made due to cost issues but they did drop the price of the TV shortly after it's release.

A firmware upgrade will be made available for the 825 series but that TV is also 1500-2000 more than the 725 series.

Also, most mfr's do not include the TV guide, Toshiba and RCA are the exceptions. Sony, Panasonic, the upcoming JVC's, the Mitsu's all do not include the guide. I haven't heard that Samsung or LG are going to be including it in their TV's but I doubt that it will be... it's usually marketed pretty strongly if it is to be included.

Don't get me wrong, I really, really wanted the guide in the 725 series as well. Given that not offering a firmware upgrade to the 725 series was a cost driven decision I do wish they would offer it as a purchasable option.

Speaking of "glitches"...I experience weird behavior when using PIP. Every time I bring up the PIP, it (NetCommand, I guess) will change the channel to "23". This makes no sense!!! I change the PIP channel back to the one I want, watch it for a while, then turn it off. When I turn PIP back on, the channel I was previously on is there for a brief second, then it changes to "23" all by itself. What's the deal? Also, sometimes when I change the main channel (while a PIP windo is up).....it will do an "exchange" for no reason.

It's frustrating, and maddening. I love all the features of this TV (and NetCommand), but it just seems like this thing was rushed out the door without sufficient testing. I feel all these things can be fixed with future SW releases, but I don't know if my "problem reports" to them ever make their way to the software group so they can be fixed.

I'm expecting a flash card in the mail tomorrow to re-install 04.003 as there have been reports that doing this will fix "mysterious" problems I've seen (mostly with lock-ups and having to reset).....but I'll just have to wait and see if it has any effect on anything else.

I'm going to keep my firmware version 4.001 for a while longer. The only time I suffer problems from PIP is when the Antenna is the source for that 2nd window. Try changing the source of the PIP to Antenna (if you have a built in HD tuner, having an antenna is a must) and see if it tries to send the channel back to 23?

If you think it is a Net Command problem, even though channel change is sometimes delayed, try removing the IR repeater jack and go back to using the supplied remotes for a while.

Is Channel 23 setup to be one of the SQV (favorites)?

My only problem/qualm with Net Command is the feature for "Power on" of the device you switch to. It's neat the first time, but when you can back to previously used device, it send the command again and shuts it off! REally crappy for a DVD player that has to load. That and the way it tries to integrate the receiver into the mix does work well with my Pioneer Receiver at all.

Originally posted by Ozy311
I just got my 62725 delivered yesterday from Ultimate Electronics locally here in the Phx Valley. The TV seems fine except for one issue. While looking at the menus on the HDTIVO or watching a movie that has black bars still, i notice that the lower right of the screen bows up horizontally and left vertically. It seems like a slight barrel distortion in that corner. It starts at about 1/3 from the right and continues to the right edge in the lower corner. If i could take a picture it'd be easier to show. Am I just too picky? I would think that a digital TV would be perfectly square and symmetrical, similar to an LCD computer screen.

It bothers me most when watching movies because the bottom black bar isn't straight across. Is this something tunable or should i request a replacement TV?

Thx guys.. Check this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=439889
and see if it describes your problem. There are pictures there as well. If it's something else, and I were you, I would swap it with another TV.

Originally posted by rpr
So in essence, the display was presenting the Auto color settings even though it was not checked, and I had to toggle it to get the display back to normal. Anybody else experience this??? '525 owner here, and I have seen this.

Originally posted by agkouriphobe
I just got my 52725 and a Time Warner (Scientific Atlanta) STB/DVR. I can't seem to remove the closed captioning. It's on all the time on my component input. Appears to work correctly when I switch to tv tuner.

Any suggestions? I presume you have the STB connected to the DTV input? If you only get it on that source, then it's coming from the STB. The TV cannot decode closed captions from COMP1, COMP2 or DTV inputs.

Originally posted by rpr
Well...here's another glitch with my 52725. I was watching a football game in HD and noticed the grass/turf exhibited a fluorescent/glowing tint to it like the Auto Color setting (which I don't use) usually does. So I went into the Perfect Color menu, and confirmed that everything was as I left it (Auto was not checked). Since I didn't see anything out of whack, I then checked the Auto color box to see how it would affect the display, and it didn't change anything. I then unchecked it and the display was corrected (no more fluorescent/glowing tint to the greens)!

So in essence, the display was presenting the Auto color settings even though it was not checked, and I had to toggle it to get the display back to normal. Anybody else experience this???

Correction to above. My 52725 reverts back to Auto color settings EVERY time I power it off and then back on (even though the box remains unchecked)! Can anybody check if their sets are also doing this?

Assuming you do not use Auto color settings, when you first power it up, tune to a station with a lot of greens (as Auto exagerates this color the most), and then go to the sSettings menu and check the Auto box. You should see the greens get significantly more fluorescent and bright looking under the Auto setting. If so, your set is working as it should, and it is not defaulting to Auto color upon startup. If not, uncheck the Auto box and see if that darkens the greens. If it does, you have just toggled the setting to deactivate Auto (even though the Auto box was not checked upon startup) and you have the same glitch as me. Thanks everyone!

HTBruce: Tx for the feedback. Does this happen every time for you, or just once in a while?

Originally posted by BB_Mike
My only problem/qualm with Net Command is the feature for "Power on" of the device you switch to. It's neat the first time, but when you can back to previously used device, it send the command again and shuts it off! REally crappy for a DVD player that has to load.

Not a problem if you use the on/off discrete codes for the DVD player. See remotecentral.com or hifi-remote.com for more information.

When I try to re-enable the Demo Mode (Menu-0-QV-0), I receive an error message: Demo Mode Disabled, Not Enough Memory. Has anybody else seen this? Does this indicate a problem?

Originally posted by rpr
Correction to above. My 52725 reverts back to Auto color settings EVERY time I power it off and then back on (even though the box remains unchecked)! Can anybody check if their sets are also doing this?

Is this the same thing? Sometimes, my Ant-1 (Cable) PerfectColor settings revert back to factory defaults (all @ 31) for no apparent reason. When I check the setup menu, AutoColor is not checked, just the PerfectColor settings have changed. I can then adjust the PerfectColor settings back to my customized settings.

Originally posted by 2left
Is this the same thing? Sometimes, my Ant-1 (Cable) PerfectColor settings revert back to factory defaults (all @ 31) for no apparent reason. When I check the setup menu, AutoColor is not checked, just the PerfectColor settings have changed. I can then adjust the PerfectColor settings back to my customized settings.

Actually, that's a different problem. I'm on hold with Mitsubishi right now (949#). The first rep I talked to (866#) was of no help whatsoever, and simply gave me the company line that no 725 series TV's require software upgrades so I would have to have a service tech look at it (despite the fact that this is obviously a software issue).

Update: The rep from the 949# was not much more help (he was not a service tech). However, I did convince him to send me the software so I could at leasst try to reinstall it to see if that will clear this up. I have heard from others that simply reinstalling the existing software will sometimes take care of software issues.

Until I get my 62725 on a proper stand, I'm winging it and not connecting up all my AV stuff. I'm trying to get a handle on Net Command, and wondered if the TV has to be on to use other components?

For instance, if I want to listen to CDs and pop 4-5 of them in my Sony changer, should I assume that I just switch the remote to CD and then power on and listen? Or do I have to power on the TV to see the net command selection bar to use say... the Yamaha receiver and the Sony CD changer?

Also, I notice the remote has the "Guide" selection and in the manual its suggested that information on the guide lines will be sent via cable signal by the cable company. Is there a way to "edit" these lines and at least indicate that 84-2 is NBC Channel 40 Local?

Capt Mike

Originally posted by IronHorse

Also, I notice the remote has the "Guide" selection and in the manual its suggested that information on the guide lines will be sent via cable signal by the cable company. Is there a way to "edit" these lines and at least indicate that 84-2 is NBC Channel 40 Local?

Capt Mike

You can only customize channel names for analogue stations. All info for digital channels is taken from the signal. Go into the TV menu, Setup (I think, or where ever the antena info is and you should see a "Name" box. If you are on a digital channel this box will be grey and you can not enter anything.

I had my 52725 replaced last week because of freezing/reset problems. When I scanned the ANT1 OTA channels on the new set everything looked good. After running it for 4 days, I decided to scan the ANT2 channels using the same input from an active splitter, but I couldn't get any digital channels. So... I decided to rescan ANT1. Big mistake - I lost all of my digital channels there too.

I tried numerous rescans with no success. I finally powered down the set, unplugged it for a couple of minutes, and rescanned again. I could then see digital channels listed, but when I tuned to them I just got a blue screen. I unplugged the set this morning when I went to work. When I came home and plugged it in everything was OK. I guess a RESET would have probably done the same thing. I spoke to Mitsubishi operational support and they told me to call the senior tech support line (not a toll free number). Since it's working now I haven't called them. I suspect this is a bug in the 02 firmware.

Funny thing - the old set was built in Sept 04 with 03 firmware. The new set was also built in Sept, but has 02 firmware.

The geometry on the new set is about the same as the old one - not perfect, but I imagine no worse than most of the other projection sets. I too have a slight bowing in the black borders on the sides, but so did the last set.

Originally posted by PAULJK
I spoke to Mitsubishi operational support and they told me to call the senior tech support line (not a toll free number).

Paul: Same thing here, but the rep I got after calling the number they gave me (supposedly a Senior Tech Support Line) said he was not a service tech.

Would you mind letting me know what number they gave you for the Senior Tech Support Line?

Originally posted by IronHorse
Until I get my 62725 on a proper stand, I'm winging it and not connecting up all my AV stuff. I'm trying to get a handle on Net Command, and wondered if the TV has to be on to use other components?


Mike.
The TV has to be on for you to use the Net Command. Common, you could have tested that one yourself. Or do you mean, in order to use the Remote as a universal remote? Basically there are two features to your TV. One is Net Command, the other is a good ol' fashioned universal remote. Each of which has some pre-programmed hardware devices, but only Net Command can "learn" new commands from random remotes. So, when using the Net command functions, you need to have the TV set on. But if your lucky enough to have a hardware component on that list that's on the back of the remote, then you just mode the slide-indicator and have at it.

I have learned in my DVD player, SA8000HD, and XM_Radio. The SA8000HD was tricky because of the A-B-C buttons being very important. I decided to make buttons 1-2-3 do those tasks. 'eh, it works. I programed "Guide" as the "list" button. What I have done (apart from the norm) is to remove the "Power on" commands from everything but the XM_Radio.

Net command is crappy in one way: Once you go to a Device, it send the command to turn it on. woopy, right? Well, if you go away from that device, and then back to it, Net Command will turn the damn thing off! So, I use the slide thing on the remote to power each hardware item on/off, but I keep it in "TV / Net Command mode" for most everything else mostly because the reception is sooo much better. Which is because the Ir receiver is in the back of the TV-set and has a very broad range, versus teh components that are hidden down at foot-level.

Originally posted by Iwii
Not a problem if you use the on/off discrete codes for the DVD player. See remotecentral.com or hifi-remote.com for more information.

Simple question.
I have found said descrete codes, but how do you "create them" from an IR standpoint for the TV to learn them? I see codes like "0013", but do you do some kind of number combination to send the signal out? I have browsed that site several tims, but haven't found the beginners threads yet. Just mostly high level all-in-one remote questions.

Discrete codes are going to be either in Pronto Hex format or JP1 (One-for-All) format. Unfortunately you either need a pronto or a JP1 remote to enter these codes. The JP1 remotes can be picked up really cheap at radio shack... if you want more info head to http://www.hifi-remote.com/ofa/

Please reference this thread and see if you have this issue.

http://avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=467700

Originally posted by BigAl
Discrete codes are going to be either in Pronto Hex format or JP1 (One-for-All) format. Unfortunately you either need a pronto or a JP1 remote to enter these codes. The JP1 remotes can be picked up really cheap at radio shack... if you want more info head to http://www.hifi-remote.com/ofa/

I have a VCR that has a toggle on/off button. Here's what I did:

- Went to hifi-remote.com and found the device code and discrete on/off codes for my VCR (Sony).
- Bought a $10 learning remote from Radio Shack (not sure what model, but it is listed on the hifi-remote.com or remotecentral.com sites) that can learn discrete codes.
- I taught the on and off codes to the Radio Shack remote.
- Added my VCR to net command and used the learn feature to manually learn the commands for the VCR. I used my VCR's remote for everything except the Power On and Power Off commands. For these commands, I used the Radio Shack remote to teach net command.

This works perfectly. I also have a Denon DVD1910 and Denon AVR2805. These components have separate On and Off buttons, so it was not a concern. Keep in mind that discrete codes are not limited to On/Off. You can find codes for just about everything.

Does anyone know if the $300 rebate that was linked/posted in here is valid at all? I searched on it and found little in terms of validity.

Thanx

I've got a strange problem with my 52725. I have the most basic cable tht you can get. So basic that they don't advertise it, but it is mandated by law. I pay about $13.mo. but to my suprise, when I hooked up to ant2 I got several HD channels. Several locals including PBS,and INHD 1 & 2 abd Discovery HD. Bute blaqnk it also added many other channels about 75 that seem to blank. I go into manual mode and delete them. When I come back some of them are aded back in. This keeps happeneing. Any ideas?

Re: PIP and reset problems
UPDATE: re-installed v26 04.003

The magic channel changing in PIP window (to channel 23) seems to have gone away. I did not have to re-scan my digital channels as the instructions indicated I would...also, the instructions said the TV would be back to normal after removing the flash card (I actually had to hit the power button). Oh well...not surprisnig I guess.

Anyway, no need to reset yet....but only time will tell. Although the PIP channel change issue seems to be gone, there now appears to be a new, equally annoying PIP problem. Everytime I do an "exchange", the channel on the PIP window that now becomes the main window goes "back" to it's "last" channel. WTF?!?! Why is PIP fighting me so much?

I use my Directv HD Sat. receiver (HDMI) and a Directv Tivo receiver (Input 2) for the 2 PIP devices. Is that so unusual that I should be uncovering so many problems? I think not...I just don't get it....NetCommand has a mind of it's own (for me anyway). I guess when I have time, I'm going to delete my entire NetCommand setup and start over.

Well... I'm the eternal optimist. I printed out my rebate form complete with a 2nd page that included the instructions, and used a highlighter to make sure they know I followed their instructions to a "T". I also went out to the garage and used a carpet knife to cut out the white SN/bar code labels on the shipper, and skinned them down to just paper thickness. I included a copy of my purchase receipt, a full bar code label, the rebate offer and the instructions... and then I sent it certified mail with a signature card to ensure that it was received by the fullfillment company. This whole deal cost me around four bucks to mail and I figure it's worth it.

Technically speaking, they made the offer available on their USA website, and I'm complying with all the requirements to qualify for the $300 rebate. I have no idea how many people have sent one in that met the requirments, but if they reneg... they could be looking at a class-action lawsuit. The rebate is supposed to take 6-8 weeks, so come January 1st I may be getting a check!

Originally posted by forkball
Does anyone know if the $300 rebate that was linked/posted in here is valid at all? I searched on it and found little in terms of validity.

Thanx

Originally posted by rpr
Paul: Same thing here, but the rep I got after calling the number they gave me (supposedly a Senior Tech Support Line) said he was not a service tech.

Would you mind letting me know what number they gave you for the Senior Tech Support Line?

Sorry for the delay - just got home. The number I got was 949-830-8364. Hope that helps. Have you tried the front panel reset button? Unfortunately that will probably blow away all of your settings too.

Originally posted by PAULJK
Sorry for the delay - just got home. The number I got was 949-830-8364. Hope that helps. Have you tried the front panel reset button? Unfortunately that will probably blow away all of your settings too.

I reset via the front panel button last night and all my PerfectColor and NetCommand settings were saved. (Reset after freezup using the PIP exchange button). HOWEVER - different sets seem to act differently, so I must disclaim any liability. :)

Originally posted by BB_Mike
. . . Net command is crappy in one way: Once you go to a Device, it send the command to turn it on. woopy, right? Well, if you go away from that device, and then back to it, Net Command will turn the damn thing off!

BB_Mike - I saw this posted elsewhere. Of the three devices and AVR I have connected, only one (I forget whether dvd or vcr) automatically turns on when selected. The others, I have to highlight the device and press "power" or press the "play" button to turn them on. I experimented, and none of the devices turn off when I switch back and forth between them.

Did I do something differently in setup, or does NetCommand work differently with different equipment? I know that it's tempermental - sometimes my AVR switches input when I switch devices, sometimes it does not.

2left - Some components do have a seperate on and off button; Does yours? I tired to get cute and not learn in the "power off" button, thinking I could outsmart it. No dice, it still sends out the ON command each time I go to that device, which actually turns the component off. Personally, I think it should turn on ALL devices when the TV is on, and then turn them all off when the TV is off. No worries that way, just a little power hungry... but so is a 300 Watt Television!

I have the AVR setup in Net Command, but not "highlighted" to really do anything. Well, it doesn't do anything as it should... untill I turn the TV off, then a few seconds later the AVR will turn on! Of course, this only works when the receiver is first off during TV viewing.

-wierd. I got sidetracked by a DVD upconverter, and a friend broght over a Samsung 50" DLP. Net Command will have to wait. ;)

I saw a 52725 at local store, selling $3,500 with 5 year warranty. Open box, customer only had few days. The reason of returning "resetting issue". Manger said after flash them with the newer software. it's ok now. They said they had about few more units are like that? is it a good price? 5 years did cover bumper to bumper.

Originally posted by kicker888
I saw a 52725 at local store, selling $3,500 with 5 year warranty. Open box, customer only had few days. The reason of returning "resetting issue". Manger said after flash them with the newer software. it's ok now. They said they had about few more units are like that? is it a good price? 5 years did cover bumper to bumper.

So they don't give you any discount, but instead give you a 5 year warranty. Crafty. I got my set for $2,800 as an open box item at Sears. I stuck with the basic 30day return option. I think most places warranties just cover them "talking" to Mits' to resolve whatever issue comes up. I think Mit's will help you out, should your set "break itself" over the next few years.

Tell them $3k and 2 years of warranty. :p

[QUOTE]Originally posted by IronHorse
[B]Well... I'm the eternal optimist. I printed out my rebate form complete with a 2nd page that included the instructions, and used a highlighter to make sure they know I followed their instructions to t "T".

___________________________________________________________

Ironhorse,

I was able to print out the form itself from somebody's posted website, but there was no second page of detailed instructions. I was kind of wondering since the first page only said "4 easy steps" and mentioned only the rebate coupon and proof of purchase. Where can I get these instructions??

Hopefully we'll decide to purchase this weekend, but still also considering the Toshiba HMX84 which is cheaper and also looks good. Seems like everybody is having "extra 10%" off this weekend... (Which would be awesome if the rebate works too!)

I also must mention that all these technical posts have me worried that I won't be able to work this TV ( or any of them). My DVD player is a 2 or 3 year old Sony and I worry it won't be right either..

Thanks, Cinders

Got a call yesterday from Mits CSR asking how my software update went....turns out I got a "patch", not the full update that was released last Friday (my flash card shipped Friday, so he didn't think I got the latest). Anyway, they are sending me another one that is supposed to completely re-install the software, and hopefully my mysterious NetCommand issues will be fixed.

Originally posted by forkball
Does anyone know if the $300 rebate that was linked/posted in here is valid at all? I searched on it and found little in terms of validity.

Thanx

I called the number on the rebate and was told it would be honored.

Based on a discussion with my saleman what may have happened is that Mits released the rebate and then decided to reduce the price on some/many units instead and pulled back the rebate offer. Have sent mine in and we'll see.

Originally posted by rjg41
I called the number on the rebate and was told it would be honored.

Based on a discussion with my saleman what may have happened is that Mits released the rebate and then decided to reduce the price on some/many units instead and pulled back the rebate offer. Have sent mine in and we'll see.


Was going to send mine in tomorrow morning. Did you just include a copy of your reciept or also the piece off the box?

Hi, I just received an Ad today, here in NJ, for an independent store selling the 62725 for $3999, including a warranty extension to 2 years parts and labor. They offer a 5 year warranty for $99, but I understand that does NOT cover the bulb. I don't know if the 2 year warranty covers the bulb.

I know Tweeter is having a big sale this weekend too. What should I expect in terms of price matching? Will they beat the advertised price or just meet it? If they beat it, by how much should I expect?

Also, both stores offer the current Mitusbishi 2 year no payment financing.

The independent store is about 20 miles (1/2 hour or so) and Tweeter is about 10 minutes away.

Thanks for your input.

boristhedog....

Got a call yesterday from Mits CSR asking how my software update went....turns out I got a "patch", not the full update that was released last Friday (my flash card shipped Friday, so he didn't think I got the latest). Anyway, they are sending me another one that is supposed to completely re-install the software, and hopefully my mysterious NetCommand issues will be fixed.


What version was released last Friday, first time I heard that.......sooooo would this be .004 and has anybody loaded it up yet??

And I wonder why they are just giving out a patch....I think I smell of severe BETA testing going on here....

Im at work....and Im not quite sure what I have...... think its .003.


update: I have .003

Originally posted by technik
boristhedog....
What version was released last Friday, first time I heard that.......sooooo would this be .004 and has anybody loaded it up yet??


I bet it's still .03 .... he just said this is a "full" version of .03, with all the .03 patches, so probably not a new rev. I should get it tomorrow.

Originally posted by technik
And I wonder why they are just giving out a patch....I think I smell of severe BETA testing going on here....


You got that right!!!!

Originally posted by cinders
Hi, I just received an Ad today, here in NJ, for an independent store selling the 62725 for $3999, including a warranty extension to 2 years parts and labor. They offer a 5 year warranty for $99, but I understand that does NOT cover the bulb. I don't know if the 2 year warranty covers the bulb.

I know Tweeter is having a big sale this weekend too. What should I expect in terms of price matching? Will they beat the advertised price or just meet it? If they beat it, by how much should I expect?

Also, both stores offer the current Mitusbishi 2 year no payment financing.

The independent store is about 20 miles (1/2 hour or so) and Tweeter is about 10 minutes away.

Thanks for your input.

Cinders- I also live in NJ and am looking to pull the trigger on a Mits 62725. What independent store you talking about(PC Richard?). Let me know what info you find out...thanks!

For all those who are looking for the top and bottom halves of the rebate. I've added a quick and dirty page for you to download the images.

http://petel-spam.home.comcast.net/

http://petel-spam.home.comcast.net/

.... and I am extremely HAPPY with the set. I want to thank all the forum members for their help in making my choice. I've poured through this entire thread as well as the "2004-05 Mitsub DLP" thread. Here are some bullet comments:
- I'm glad my wife talked me into getting the 62 inch; viewing distance is only about 8-9 feet, but picture is great anyways
- happy with all color settings out of the box; so far the only video settings I've changed are to move the contrast to midpoint (it was set completely to the right, ie highest contrast) and to change the color temperature to LOW (it was set at HIGH)
- no screen tilt
- no bad spots on display
- no glare at night, acceptable glare/reflections in the day
- at first the fan noise concerned me, but I find that my ambient noise (furnace running) and sound from the program basically buries the fan noise
- HD tv via cable and component hook-up is awesome
- set looks great on the IKEA "OPPLI" stand - very easy to move on its casters
=====
my negatives so far:
- I don't like flipping through the format choices, most of them seem too distorted to be useful
- I wish the remote was back-lit
- my DVD display is "okay"; it is NOT progressive scan and I'm using S-video to hook it up
=====
- haven't tried to hook up NET COMMAND; am feeling some trepidation about that (my dvd player, receiver are kind of old)

There is a recessed button on the side of the remote... press it and the remote will illuminate.

Originally posted by njbruin
.... and I am extremely HAPPY with the set. I want to thank all the forum members for their help in making my choice. I've poured through this entire thread as well as the "2004-05 Mitsub DLP" thread. Here are some bullet comments:
- I'm glad my wife talked me into getting the 62 inch; viewing distance is only about 8-9 feet, but picture is great anyways
- happy with all color settings out of the box; so far the only video settings I've changed are to move the contrast to midpoint (it was set completely to the right, ie highest contrast) and to change the color temperature to LOW (it was set at HIGH)
- no screen tilt
- no bad spots on display
- no glare at night, acceptable glare/reflections in the day
- at first the fan noise concerned me, but I find that my ambient noise (furnace running) and sound from the program basically buries the fan noise
- HD tv via cable and component hook-up is awesome
- set looks great on the IKEA "OPPLI" stand - very easy to move on its casters
=====
my negatives so far:
- I don't like flipping through the format choices, most of them seem too distorted to be useful
- I wish the remote was back-lit
- my DVD display is "okay"; it is NOT progressive scan and I'm using S-video to hook it up
=====
- haven't tried to hook up NET COMMAND; am feeling some trepidation about that (my dvd player, receiver are kind of old)

The remote is backlit.

It's a black button on the right side of the remote next to the "mute" button. ;)

Originally posted by njbruin
[B- haven't tried to hook up NET COMMAND; am feeling some trepidation about that (my dvd player, receiver are kind of old) [/B]

Bruin,
The age of your components doesn't have all that much to do with your success. So long as your remote for them supports the desired functions.

Here's my quick synopsis:

SA8000HD
-Learned in most everything, had to becuase of the DVR functions. I decided to sacrifce numbers 1 and 2 to get function "A" and "B" for the DVR menus. I did some other trickery, i.e. I learned in the "List" button to be the Mit's "Guide" button (this is access to the DVR menu). It is a henderance that the Mit's remote has such a HUGE play button. If you hit it, my STB goes into "slow motion" mode from live TV. Mit's engineers must think Americans are giants byt eh size of this remote. ;)

SAMSUNG DVD PLAYER
-Had to learn in ALL of those commands. Pretty simple and straight forward. I threw in a cheater shortcut for the Subtitle menu for direct access, and made it the remotes "Guide" button.

XM_RADIO (Delphi Roady)
-Yeah, learned that one in to. Works well with the acception of reapeating the codes. for example channel 66 or 88 would result in just 6 or just 8, and also for multiple channel up functions. No biggy though, as I can always go 65 and then channel up once. ;) But the power on/off feature is functional for this device.

Pioneer DSX-498 receiver.
-Hopeless. :( Pioneer was so stupid to not make seperate buttons for directly accessing each input. Instead, you have the "function" button, which toggles inputs across. However, I can't learn that because net command has no extra fluff for this. Well, unless I really cheat and take away a cable-box command. The preloaded commands are close, but not quite enough. It will select "TV" input automatically, but that's it. To top it off, the receiver wont toggle between analog and digital audio via remote... only get that by a button on the receiver. Booo.

For the Power On/Off, I got fed up with it quickly for the DVD player and STB and un-learned those codes. Luckily, the Mits' remote functions as an all-in-one also by using the slider. The built in codes for each of these devices work great for simple execution.

I want this audio/video setup to be very idiot friendly, so all of this "custom learning" of special buttons really hurts that cause.

Sadly, about a week ago I handed the remote to my girlfriend with the simple instruction, "Change the TV over to the DVD, which is already playing". After 2 minutes she gave up. :( FYI, she isn't my GF anymore. HA! :D

Got another flash card yesterday.....re-installed software. I'm still seeing strange behavior using PIP with Tivo box (other people are seeing this too). No need to reset yet, but time will tell....oh yeah, the version is still v26 04.003

Does anyone know what the file system format is for these flash cards? I was just curious about the files on it, but I can "see" using my PDA (windoze CE) as a flash card reader. Or maybe the files are "auto-destructed" after an upgrade.

I've had my 62 for about three weeks now. Overall, I'd say I'm 80% satisfied. Mostly bothered by the fan noise, which I hope will be controllable somehow in the future. But for now, I'm trying to get the best picture from it. I sit about 11 feet away. I've tried the different settings posted here (and in other threads) including UMR's findings, and I'm pretty happy with the color reproduction. However, I have not been able to get rid of the 'digital' look. I'm talking mostly about the 'mosquito noise' in solid walls in the background. Everything in main focus (in the foreground) looks very good, and not clay face or anything. But even it has a sort of 'pixel dancing in front of it' type of look to it, if you look for it. But the most obvious stuff is in the background, and in the glare from light sources in the picture content. Which settings most affect these problems, or is this something that digital displays just suffer?

AND, has anyone been able to overcome the white crush that these sets reportedly exhibit? Which I agree mine seems to suffer just by noting there's no detail in the referee's cap in HD NFL games, just a big cap-shaped clump of bright white!

BTW, my only source right now is OTA. My problems are with all material I've watched, including HD shows. I'll put my old 480i DVD player on it tonight and see what I see :) Connected with component cables at least.

After a firmware update, the files on the card are wiped. The TV runs embedded VXWorks.

Just got my 52725 last night and tried to play with the video settings as best I could by eye, will run DVE tonight when I get home.

I was quite impressed on a majority of HD content, but the football game on ESPN-HD sucked. Also SD content doesn't look as good as my old Sony KP51hw40, but I am sure once I play with the tv it will be better.

I know I remember seeing some settings somewhere on this thread, but does anyone have their set tweaked as good as they can get it and willing to post the settings here? I would like a little better starting point.

No problems what so ever in the 2 hours or so it was on last night. The only complaint I have is you buy a $3500 tv and you get that crappy ass remote. Why can't a company produce a solid remote that actually comes with the product. That remote reminds me of something you get when you buy a $99 no name tv from Sams club.

But besides that, happy thus far.

Originally posted by boristhedog
Got another flash card yesterday.....re-installed software. I'm still seeing strange behavior using PIP with Tivo box (other people are seeing this too). No need to reset yet, but time will tell....oh yeah, the version is still v26 04.003

Does anyone know what the file system format is for these flash cards? I was just curious about the files on it, but I can "see" using my PDA (windoze CE) as a flash card reader. Or maybe the files are "auto-destructed" after an upgrade.

You're correct when say the files are deleted after the firmware has been flashed.

Here's a list of what's on the card beforehand:

folders -
demo (bunch of jpg's for demo mode)
Pattern (bunch of test patterns)
SYS5 (dat files)

files -
acl_portRel192.cmp
melcono
melconov
Mpeg2_mce.cmp
params
params2
snid
startup1
startup2
V265upApp.com
vxWorks

- still happy
- thanks for the advice on back-lit remote! I actually found it by accident before returning to the forum tonight.
- HAVE MADE ONE VIDEO ADJUSTMENT: felt I had to adjust video brightness, it was too dark so I moved the slider to the right to about 75% and pic looks real nice
- I'm thoroughly enjoying HDNET movies, Russia House was spectacular as was an old Michael Caine movie, forget the title, but it also took place in Russia (pre-fall of the iron curtain)
- tonight I'm watching "Time to Kill" on TNTHD, also terrific movie viewing
-----
Just feel like re-iterating, I have ZERO issues with fan noise and the color has been totally satisfying. Still recommending this tv.
----
Next step is to hook up my DVD layer with component video. I'm expecting significant improvement.
====
I'm taking it slow. Still haven't tried the NET COMMAND.

Well...reinstalling the 03 firmware did not fix my problem with the display reverting back to Auto color settings (even though the Auto box does not appear checked) every time I power it on.

I really don't want to return this TV, but this is a really annoying problem. I should not have to manually toggle this setting every time I want to watch the TV with the same settings I had before I last powered it off. Mitsubishi is clueless, other than to suggest that they send a tech to look at it who will not be able to do anything because this has to be a software issue and there is no new software to install.

If I return this unit, with my luck, I will get another unit that doesn't have this glitch but it will have the tilt, reset and bright spot issues instead (I have none of those right now).

Originally posted by TenthScale
Was going to send mine in tomorrow morning. Did you just include a copy of your receipt or also the piece off the box?

I had asked the Mits rebate person what constituted proof of purchase. She said sales receipt is all that was necessary. That's all I sent. Like I said, we'll see.

In case there are others, like me, that want to know the dimensions of the box of a WD 52725.

They are: 55" (L) x 24" (W) x 44 (H)

I search high and low before buying mine, but couldn't find them.

I hope this helps someone.

MBJ

Anyone have a 725 here with a CC?

I have both a 525 and 725 w/ CC. The 525 is fine with the CC, but the 725 simply won't work. Whenever you type in a channel number and press enter, it doesn't do anything. Only analog channels can be viewed. The TV recognizes the CC as installed and even gives you the channel names (770 - HDNET, etc), but it just won't display them.

Charter has tried multiple cards, but they just won't work.

Any idea?

There have been a couple posts about black spots or smudges on the screen, and the common consensus is it is most likely a spot of dirt on a mirror. Is this a user serviceable issue? I live a ways away from any service, and if possible I'd kind of like to see it I could remedy it myself.....
That is if it isn't too hard. I'm fairly technically adept, but I also don't want to screw up a warranty on my new set (a 52725 BTW) or the set itself for that matter!

Just after the wisdom of the Forum.

Thanks

MBJ

clangro

It could be your 725's CC account isn't set up correctly at the cable company. Were both these CC installations performed at the same time? Did you try a hard reset after the CC install?

Any recommendations on a DVD player to go with the Mitsubishi?

Originally posted by mbjst
There have been a couple posts about black spots or smudges on the screen, and the common consensus is it is most likely a spot of dirt on a mirror. Is this a user serviceable issue? I live a ways away from any service, and if possible I'd kind of like to see it I could remedy it myself.....
That is if it isn't too hard. I'm fairly technically adept, but I also don't want to screw up a warranty on my new set (a 52725 BTW) or the set itself for that matter!

MBJ
I had mine serviced and it looked fairly easy to get at the mirror.. Remove the grill and then the face plate in the center where the card slots are. Remove the screws in the back that hold the screen on. Disconnect the cable bundle that attaches to the screen and then just lift off the screen from the front.

Originally posted by biggersbetter
I've had a 62725 since Sept 26, and now have about 300 hrs on it.

A couple days ago, it suddenly had a black level shift (towards black). It is now virtually un-watchable in a brightly lit room. At night, it is "dull", for lack of a better term. Kind of like the color temp, black level, and white level are all too low. Everything else seems OK.

Service guy will be in on Wednesday. I'm hoping for an infant failure of the lamp, but it's been 27 years since I was in the TV repair biz, so what do I know :-)

Anyone else seen a similar symtom?

Rick

After a nearly 2 week ordeal working with my local dealer's service dept and Mits CR, I finally received a replacement lamp yesterday. Luckily, the lamp turned out to be the cause of the symptom described above.

Everything's back to original performance. I don't have the tilt, green halo, pixelation issues. Other than Mitsubishi having TERRIBLE communications with their field service orgs, I'm happy with the TV.

Rick

I'm sorry if this has already been covered but this is a LONG thread!

I just bought a 52725 which will be delivered today at 4:30!!!

I have a question about HD. How does the cableCard work. I live in Atlanta and have Comcast cable. Does that mean that I do not need a cable box? Comcast seems to charge for HD. Is that just to rent the box?

Thanks!

Just received my 3rd 62725. Once again there is a bunch of dirt and a hair behind the screen and a noticeable tilt. The other 2 had the bright spot. So far I don't see it, but will check tonight. I have a new problem though, when I use the internal Tuner, taking the coax cable and going straight into Ant 1, the picture is much better than going through my cable box. The problem is I am seeing diagonal waves or bars moving in the background. Almost like in the old days when you got bad reception. They are not there through the cable box, and I have a split feed running to another DLP and it does not exhibit this. I have also switched cables on the 2 TV's and only the Mits shows this. I tried resetting the TV and also relearned all of the channels but it is still there. Neither of the other sets that I returned with the bright spot did this. Anyone have any ideas or heard of this problem? I am afraid the Tuner just might be defective. Of course the Tuner also exhibits the green halo, but I believe that is a more common problem. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

You have a bad ground loop from your cable-in. Call them to show it to them to fix it and/or get a ground loop isolator at our store.

Originally posted by Jim Christian
You have a bad ground loop from your cable-in. Call them to show it to them to fix it and/or get a ground loop isolator at our store. What I do not understand is why did the same model TV that they picked up this morning not do this, or the DLP TV right next to it on the same split feed not show this either? Thanks

Originally posted by AtlantaGatorLee
I'm sorry if this has already been covered but this is a LONG thread!

I just bought a 52725 which will be delivered today at 4:30!!!

I have a question about HD. How does the cableCard work. I live in Atlanta and have Comcast cable. Does that mean that I do not need a cable box? Comcast seems to charge for HD. Is that just to rent the box?

Thanks!

Do yourself a favor and get the Set Top Box first. Also get a unit capable of recording (aka Digital Video Recording). Cable cards are new for most any provider. I'd rather let other people work out the bugs for a few more months. Call comcast and see what the option are for your area. Take the approach i did and tell them that you are considering other providers and comparing prices (Comcast costs more than knology). That netted me some free programming for 6 months. :) You will have to pay for the digital basic service, and then the HD box (the HD channels come with the box so to speak, assuming you already get said channels in standard format).

You'll soon become a Discovery channel junky... solely because it's in HD.

Atlanta...

I have Comcast as well and to get your feet wet, you might want to wait and see what you like or dislike about the set with regular cable. Right now I have straight extended basic cable and yeah... I only get PBS, CBS, and NBC in HD. However, my SD is just about as good as my old Toshiba 35" CRT set once I had Comcast come out and replace my street to house cable. I'll probably consider a CC down the road, but I want to hear more about how good the "other" couple of HD channels are coming through Comcast. I don't know if our local stations are pumping at 100% or not, and I've heard that ESPN isn't _that_ great. I don't subscribe to HBO, and I don't do PPV movies as I belong to the Blockbuster club deal. But DVDs are awesome on this set and football is flat out scary. I may go all winter without a CC and it's mainly because I'm a Yankee fan and other than going DTV and getting YES, I don't know if I will see the Yankees in HD other than maybe on ESPN HDor NESN HD when they play the Red Sox at home. However, if you feel you need "digital" channels and all that, then by all means try the CC or the STB.

For now, I'm OK with my HD NFL football which (other than DVDs) is more or less all we're watching in HD anyway.

Enjoy the Mits... you're gonna'love it. These sets pretty much deliver 110% as far as I'm concerned. There should be a thread for rave reviews of the Mits DLPs... it'd be cool to see that.

Iron Horse

Originally posted by AtlantaGatorLee
I'm sorry if this has already been covered but this is a LONG thread!

I just bought a 52725 which will be delivered today at 4:30!!!

I have a question about HD. How does the cableCard work. I live in Atlanta and have Comcast cable. Does that mean that I do not need a cable box? Comcast seems to charge for HD. Is that just to rent the box?

Thanks!

Originally posted by Jim Christian
You have a bad ground loop from your cable-in. Call them to show it to them to fix it and/or get a ground loop isolator at our store. I disagree... I've seen that exact problem with a bad CATV amplifier. I'll bet he's got an amplifier on the coax, and one of the outputs of that amplifier has gone bad. It could also be too much gain, overloading the Mits tuner. Check this URL: http://www.kyes.com/antenna/interference/tvibook.html

Ground loops are usually seen as a slowly moving horizontal bar going from bottom to top of the screen. It's also known as a "hum bar". It's a small 60hz AC voltage bleeding onto the coax ground circuit. See this faq:
http://www.dslreports.com/faq/3863

Originally posted by HTBruceM
I disagree... I've seen that exact problem with a bad CATV amplifier. I'll bet he's got an amplifier on the coax, and one of the outputs of that amplifier has gone bad. It could also be too much gain, overloading the Mits tuner. Check this URL: http://www.kyes.com/antenna/interference/tvibook.html

Ground loops are usually seen as a slowly moving horizontal bar going from bottom to top of the screen. It's also known as a "hum bar". It's a small 60hz AC voltage bleeding onto the coax ground circuit. See this faq:
http://www.dslreports.com/faq/3863 Thanks for the reply. I do not have any kind of amplifier hooked up, and occasionally I do see horizontal lines moving up the screen, but they seem to be moving rather quickly. Sometimes they move diagonally and sometimes down. I have tried both a single and split signal and it makes no difference.They are more like bars when going up or down and look like waves when moving diagonally, and both are not there all the time. Would a high end coax cable possibly help this? I just don't get why the other 2 Mits sets didn't exhibit this. I called Mits and they said that since the other set on the same feed didn't show this, and the last 2 Mits sets didn't either that I may have an internal problem with the set. They also said try a reset which I have tried twice.:confused:

I just bought this set last night. Am I gonna be sorry? sounds like all kinds of problems with tilt, bright spot, and fan issues. It gets delivered next week. I am wondering if I ought to exchange it before I even get it. 4100 for the set, stand, 5 yr warranty, cables from Hhgregg. Also, which is the best satellite to use. I have regular Directv now, but I see I will be changing to some type of HD system. Am 60 miles into the boonies so I'm not sure Offair HD is attainable.
Markvdb.

You would be surprised at the picture you can get even up to 60 miles away. I could get CBS, 50 miles away from Chicago with a silver sensor sitting on top of my tv...you might be able to get more than you think.

If you have a grand to spend, the HR10-250 HD-tivo through D* is worth it's weight in gold. I can't beleive I survived before it.

Remember, most of the discussions on this board are going to be negative, because people are looking for solutions. Very rarely will you find a thread that asks who isn't having problems with a product.

I have had my 725 for a week and I love it thus far.

My only problem is it looks so good I now need to upgrade the rest of my system. I have the bright spot, almost a non-issue imo. Althought mine is not as bad as some pictures I've seen posted. What is annoying are the different hues and color levels on every station. Argh.

I've had this TV for six weeks now, and my only problem is I can't stop watching it!

"If you have a grand to spend, the HR10-250 HD-tivo through D* is worth it's weight in gold. I can't beleive I survived before it."

I couldn't live without TiVo, but I can't see spending that much on the DirecTV TiVo HD recv at this point. I'm hoping they'll come down over the next year or so. I bought the Mitsu specifically because it had a tuner built-in, and I pick up all the Chicago HD stations just fine from 40 miles away (via a 15 year-old rooftop antenna that was on the house when I bought it, just ran a new cable to it). I also didn't see the logic in paying D* another 10$ or more a month to get the limited HD channels they offer (ESPN-HD, DiscoveryHD, etc) since locals would still have to be picked up OTA. The local channels they carry on the satellite are ONLY in SD, not HD.

Having small children, I wind up TiVo'ing almost all the shows I want to watch, and they look great even though they aren't HD and widescreen, and most aren't even broadcast in that format anyway. The stuff that I REALLY want to see in HD is football and NASCAR on the weekend, and I simply watch that live (after threatening my knee-biters with impending doom if they bother Daddy while the game/race is on).

"I just bought this set last night. Am I gonna be sorry? sounds like all kinds of problems with tilt, bright spot, and fan issues."

You will NOT be sorry. I got mine 10 days ago, and while a lot of the information I've found on this board/thread has been valuable, you could also turn into a tech-hypochondriad if you focus on the problems that are presented.

Tilt - not an issue with mine, it looks great.

Bright Spot - not an issue with mine, no bright spot noticeable, and I've looked for it.

Fan noise - My set is in a corner, so the fan noise is actually amplified, but I don't notice it unless I turn the set WAY down. There is so much other ambient noise in my house and probably most others (refrigerator, furnace, outside traffic, etc) that I don't think it will be a factor for you.

Reset/lockup - Has happened to me just once so far, no big deal. Watched TV Friday night, set was dead when I tried to turn it on Saturday morning. Red light came on indicating lamp out. Book said unplug and try again, so I did, no success. Called store, they were out that afternoon, hit reset and everything was ducky (they did double-check the condition of the lamp for me). Now I know what to do next time.

Slow channel changes - I don't find them to be unreasonably slow at all.

Of course with every piece of technology you run the risk of having issues, but so far I think that overall this is a great unit.

One more note:

FWIW, the tech from the store strongly recommended getting a UPS for the system. They run about $100, but if power goes out, you can shut the set down properly (meaning the fan keeps running for a couple minutes) and avoid the risk of having your bulb shatter from not being cooled properly during shutdown.

Originally posted by tbone526
You will NOT be sorry. I got mine 10 days ago, and while a lot of the information I've found on this board/thread has been valuable, you could also turn into a tech-hypochondriad if you focus on the problems that are presented ... Of course with every piece of technology you run the risk of having issues, but so far I think that overall this is a great unit.
How's the geometry on your 52725 (or 62725)? I know you mentioned the tilt issue, but I have noticed that most DLP RPTVs have other geometry issues. Many have curved side edges during 4:3 playback and curved top and bottom edges during 2.35:1 playback, sometimes excessively. How are the Mits 725s with respect to these kinds of geometry issues?

Michael

"How's the geometry on your 52725".....

As far as I can tell, it's perfect. No curves or issues at all.

If I have a complaint about the features on this set, it's this: There is no convenient way to take a show that was broadcast in 4:3 SD but letterboxed (so it has the black bars at the top and bottom) and expand it to the proper size to fill the 16:9 screen. If I use the "expand" or "zoom" functions on the TV, the image is blown up TOO much, and I lose parts of all the edges. I would have liked to see a variable zoom.

Originally posted by rotty2
I may have an internal problem with the set. That is one possibility.

Originally posted by tbone526
"How's the geometry on your 52725".....

As far as I can tell, it's perfect. No curves or issues at all.
I decided to stop by our local Anderson's TV on the way home from work to take a look at the 52725. Despite having some overhead lighting shining on the screen, not behind the TV, the picture was quite vibrant without being harsh. Very good contrast, very good color, good black and shadow detail and no rainbows.

Then the disappointment hit. The loop they were running got to a video about HDTVs and the future. Part of the video had a horizontal line near the bottom right and top left of the screen. The horizontal line was tilted! The part of the video between the horizontal line and the bottom of the screen was not even. I looked at the CRT RPTV right next to it and the 62725 on the other side of the CRT RPTV and neither one of them had the tilting. A glance around the store showed no tilting. So, it wasn't the video but the 52725.

The fact that yours is fine and the 62725 appeared to be fine in the store means this problem is hit and miss. And if I understand correctly, this tilting problem cannot be corrected (although the salesman in the store tried to convince me that it could be corrected).

I ran out of time, but if 4:3 SDTV doesn't exhibit the curved lines on the side bars, and the 2.35:1 DVDs don't show bowed lines on the top and bottom bars, AND if one could be found to not have a tilting problem, the 52725 looks like a better bet for us than the Sony 55xs955 and the Hitachi 50vs810 or 50vx915.

Michael

Originally posted by Michael Mohrmann

The fact that yours is fine and the 62725 appeared to be fine in the store means this problem is hit and miss. And if I understand correctly, this tilting problem cannot be corrected (although the salesman in the store tried to convince me that it could be corrected).

Michael

Actually, if you read the threads around here I'd say it appears that the tilt problem is easily corrected. Many here have done it. Sometimes salesmen are right...

DC

Originally posted by DCinDC
Actually, if you read the threads around here I'd say it appears that the tilt problem is easily corrected. Many here have done it. Sometimes salesmen are right...
What is the actual solution to the tilt problem? I started searching this (70+ pages) and other threads about the Mits xx725 tilt problem, and when I got to the part about twisting the cabinet around, I thought that sounded ridiculous. Is that the solution or can the techs solve this problem?

Michael

Originally posted by Michael Mohrmann
What is the actual solution to the tilt problem? I started searching this (70+ pages) and other threads about the Mits xx725 tilt problem, and when I got to the part about twisting the cabinet around, I thought that sounded ridiculous. Is that the solution or can the techs solve this problem?

Michael

If someone can tell me how to post a link to a point in a thread, I'll try and list it here. UMD_Terp seems to be the expert on this front so a PM to him might work as well. A couple of user accessible adjustment screws and I think a tweak via the service menu were all it took. Those who have tried it seem satisfied.

DC

Originally posted by DCinDC
If someone can tell me how to post a link to a point in a thread, I'll try and list it here.
If you are talking about AVS, find the post, and look in the lower right-hand corner. You will see 3 links, a Post #, followed by "Report to moderator" link, and finally an "IP" link. Copy and paste the "Post #" link into your response.

BTW, thanks for the help.

Michael