I received my 52725 last week. I have a service call to remove a hair that is in the light path and most likely a little blotch on the mirror. I am really liking mine. I agree the channel tuning is slow, the overall response to remote buttons seems sluggish, but livable. Other than the light path issues, I love the picture so far.

No tilt issues with my set. For those who believe they have a curve on a 4:3 SD source, bear in mind that there is a common optical illusion that can make a straight line appear curved. The only way to be sure is to check it with a yardstick or other straight edge, don't always believe your eyes.

I have seen reference to a firmware upgrade, are there release notes somewhere that tell what has been corrected (I have V26 004.03). How does one obtain the new firmware? Is there a way to download new netcommand devices (via flash) so you don't have to manually key-in the device names? I am still in the learning phase. :) Where is the protocol spec for the RS-232 port, I can't find a reference on the mits web-site?

Thanks,

Originally posted by Michael Mohrmann
If you are talking about AVS, find the post, and look in the lower right-hand corner. You will see 3 links, a Post #, followed by "Report to moderator" link, and finally an "IP" link. Copy and paste the "Post #" link into your response.

BTW, thanks for the help.

Michael

Cool...always wondered how to do this. Anyhow, I'd start here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4351024#post4351024

Then go through the thread a bit because I believe there was a subsequent post about adjusting the HPOS and VPOS in the service menu to center the image after fixing tilt/keystone problem. My sense is that everyone was satisfied with the results even using test patterns.

Hope this helps!

DC

Hello everyone.

I have been lurking on this message board the last couple of weeks, while trying to decide which HDTV to puchase for my home theater. I am excited and proud to tell you that today I purchased a Mitsubishi WD-52725 DLP television. I had been trying to make up my mind between the Mits and the Hitachi 50VS810 and finally decided on the Mits. They will be delivering it tomorrow so I'm keeping my fingers crossed hoping it won't have any of the issues that some have had with this tv. At first I was a little scared by some of the problems people have had, but have since come to the conclusion that ALL models have problems, and for every person that has a problem with this tv there are a bunch more that don't have any problems. Anyway, I feel that I was able to purchase this tv for a really good price. I was able to talk them down to $[MSRP ONLY] with free delivery, and I have sent in the mai-in-rebate coupon for another $300 off, bringing me down to $[MSRP ONLY]I feel that this is a very good price for this tv. However, I haven't purchased an extended warranty yet, an am curious what the concensus is? Is it needed or not? and What is a good price for it? hhgregg wanted $299 for 36 months, $399 for 48, and $499 for 60. I was like Yeah right! I am curious what kind of deals you guys have been able to get on the extended warranties. I NEVER buy extended warranties but thought it might be wise(at a reasonable price) on this purchase. Anyway I want to thank you guys because even though I wasn't a member of this forum yet you still helped me in my purchase.

Extreme, I got 100 bucks off the 5 yr warranty with HH gregg. I got it because at 400 bucks it isnt much more than the cost of a bulb. I havent dealt with HHgregg before concerning warranty issues but I did notice that their return policy is 10 days, not 30 like CC. Also you better keep that box for the 10 days. (fine print on the back of the receipt)
Markvdb

Where is the mail in rebate coupon. On the web site (couldnt see it) or at the retailer?

It won't let me post a url since I have less than 5 posts so give me a second.

almost there

Sorry Guys

One more post

OK

Here is the link.

http://www.hometheaterspot.com/attach//658074-mits-coupon-01a.png

Today was the last day for the promotion.

Originally posted by DCinDC
Anyhow, I'd start here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4351024#post4351024

Then go through the thread a bit because I believe there was a subsequent post about adjusting the HPOS and VPOS in the service menu to center the image after fixing tilt/keystone problem. My sense is that everyone was satisfied with the results even using test patterns.

Hope this helps!
Yes, that helped a great deal. Seems that most people were able to have the geometry on their TVs calibrated enough to reduce or eliminate the tilt. The posts also answered my questions regarding the bowing or curving of horizontal and vertical lines. Looks like the Mits DLPs do a better job handing straight lines that most of the other DLP RPTVs we have auditioned (Samsung, Toshiba, LG, RCA), and on par with the Panasonic DLP.

Michael

Beware! That coupon doesn't look legit. There are not enough disclaimers and the address doesn't match the Jeronimo Rd. address in some of their other promotions. It could be that they used a different address for this promotion, but I would want further proof.

HDorBust,

I figure I have nothing to lose. If for some reason this rebate isn't legit(which I doubt), I still got the tv for $[MSRP ONLY] I didn't buy it because of the rebate. I happened upon the rebate and figured it was worth a try for an extra $300 off. Point is, it isn't something I'm counting on, but from what I have seen I think it will work. Mitsubishi admits to having the promotion and cancelling it early. So, I believe they will have to honor it for the people who were able to get their hands on it.

Here's a link to your disclaimers:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=4583420&fullpage=1

Originally posted by ExtremePCs
I had been trying to make up my mind between the Mits and the Hitachi 50VS810 and finally decided on the Mits.
I am curious what made you decide to go with the Mits over the Hitachi? My wife and I had pared our list down to the Hitachi 50vs810, Hitachi 50vx915, and the Sony 55xs955 (all LCD RPTVs) before deciding that each one had obvious and annoying limitations and were not worth the cost. We looked at the Samsung HL-P5085W (aka "Kirk"), liked the picture, but didn't like the geometry problems. So, now we are looking at the Mits 52725.

Michael

Well,

Let me start by saying that there are things I liked about both sets. I also considered the sony 55 but found that it had by far the worst black levels of the three, but was larger and less money. The hitachi vs810 was much better but still second to the mits. So for me the Sony was running a distant third overall. I have made numerous trips to the store to view these tvs and have come away liking different models better on different days. I would go in and see shrek 2 playing on the hitachi(side note: It wasn't playing on the Mits so I couldn't compare apples to apples) and it was breathtaking. So i would have my mind make up on the Hitachi. Then I would go back and see the mits and would like it better, and so on. It came down to a couple things. I had them start puting these two tvs on the same sources to I could compare them better. I didn't notice the rainbows that I have heard some people talking about, and found myself liking the mits more than the Hitachi. Then came the styling. I purchased this stand to put me new tv on:

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Z-Line-Designs-55--TV-Stand--Z22-1S-/sem/rpsm/oid/93807/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do?c=0&BV_SessionID=@@@@1454368608.1100669497@@@@&BV_EngineID=cccladdddjemllkcfngcfkmdffhdfif.0

I felt that the Mits with its speakers on the bottom raised the screen a few more inches, which was better for my home theater room. I also decided that I liked the styling of the mits better. And although it might sound kind of dumb, the hitachi vs810 is about a half inch wider than my stand and I felt that it wouldn't look right. So, I liked both of these tvs but decided that based on the criteria that was important to me the Mitsubishi WD-52725 was the right choice for me. It is also 2" larger, not like it was a huge factor for me, but just one more thing that helped my lean towards the Mits. I hope this helps.

Originally posted by ExtremePCs
I also considered the sony 55 but found that it had by far the worst black levels of the three, but was larger and less money.
Pretty much the same conclusion we came to about the Sony. It always looked bright and contrasty upon the initial viewing, but once you started to adjust the video settings to get the TV out of torch mode and played a DVD movie with dark scenes (i.e. Pirates of the Caribbean), the Sony didn't look as good.

Originally posted by ExtremePCs
I would go in and see shrek 2 playing on the hitachi and it was breathtaking.
The 50vs810 gave us this impression too, but it too had its own set of issues, like an overly reflective "anti-reflection" screen, a greenish cast that was most noticeable on the skin tones, and overall QC problems.

Originally posted by ExtremePCs
The hitachi vs810 was much better but still second to the mits.
Well, we will see if that's what we decide after a full audition of the Mits 52725 this coming weekend.

Thanks for the information. It's just unfortunate that we decided to look at the Mits 52725 at this time, since today was the last day for the $300 rebate.

Michael

Originally posted by HDorBust
Beware! That coupon doesn't look legit. There are not enough disclaimers and the address doesn't match the Jeronimo Rd. address in some of their other promotions. It could be that they used a different address for this promotion, but I would want further proof.

This rebate coupon has been posted elsewhere. T&C were on a separate page. Apparently, Mits posted this on their website for a few days then withdrew it. It's been reported here that some members have called and found out that they will accept the ones they receive. Don't know if it's true, but I agree that it can't hurt to try.

DC

Originally posted by ExtremePCs
HDorBust,

I figure I have nothing to lose. If for some reason this rebate isn't legit(which I doubt), I still got the tv for $2996. I didn't buy it because of the rebate. I happened upon the rebate and figured it was worth a try for an extra $300 off. Point is, it isn't something I'm counting on, but from what I have seen I think it will work. Mitsubishi admits to having the promotion and cancelling it early. So, I believe they will have to honor it for the people who were able to get their hands on it.

Here's a link to your disclaimers:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=4583420&fullpage=1

Thanks, after seeing the disclaimers I might believe it is legit.

The $300 rebate coupon IS legit without question. I downloaded my copy on October 27 directly from the Mits web site and have contacted them about it to ensure they will honor it. Unfortunately it was posted for only a day or so and was pulled back.

UPDATE!

Well I received my new 52725 first thing this morning and let me tell you it is AWESOME. I meticulously went over it looking for any dead or stuck pixels(mirrors), and the dreaded bright spot. I am happy to tell you that so far my tv shows no sign of either problem. I am going to continue to keep my fingers crossed and hope that I don't develop any of these problems. I will tell you that I am noticing a little fan noise. In the store you can't really hear it because of all the other noises present. It isn't something that is really bothering me though. It is just a small hum that can be heard if the room is silent. I through in LOTR-Return of the King, and WOW! I was blown away. Back to the fan, during movies you don't really hear it. Only if the soundtrack is silent. Not a big issue for me. I didn't invest in a beast sound system to have it quiet in there. I'm just happy I haven't had any of the PQ problems. My wife was pretty impressed with it as well. I'll keep you informed on how it goes.

I agree. Nice deal.

I paid a little less than "the crane" at a regional brick and mortar for my 62725 with 5 year warranty that includes the bulb. But the deal did not include the stand or cables.

For informational purposes Tweeters warranty was I beleive $349 and covers bulbs and everything else in home for 5 years. The manager, told me their insurance company was planning on raising the price from $349 to $499 in the coming weeks before Christmas. FWIW

Originally posted by ExtremePCs
UPDATE!

Well I received my new 52725 first thing this morning and let me tell you it is AWESOME. I meticulously went over it looking for any dead or stuck pixels(mirrors), and the dreaded bright spot. I am happy to tell you that so far my tv shows no sign of either problem. I am going to continue to keep my fingers crossed and hope that I don't develop any of these problems. I will tell you that I am noticing a little fan noise. In the store you can't really hear it because of all the other noises present. It isn't something that is really bothering me though. It is just a small hum that can be heard if the room is silent. I through in LOTR-Return of the King, and WOW! I was blown away. Back to the fan, during movies you don't really hear it. Only if the soundtrack is silent. Not a big issue for me. I didn't invest in a beast sound system to have it quiet in there. I'm just happy I haven't had any of the PQ problems. My wife was pretty impressed with it as well. I'll keep you informed on how it goes. Congrats on your purchase and welcome to the ever increasing XX525/XX725 family. One note of warning...don't let the NetCommand instructions overwhelm you. It's a very useful and practical feature and is not all that difficult to program. Good luck with the TV!

Benji,

Thanks for the advice. However, I don't plan on using Netcommand. This TV is in a dedicated home theater room and the only input devices are my DVD player and HD Satelite receiver, which are switched by my receiver. With this setup I never have to change inputs on my TV. All I have to do is select satelite or DVD on my home theater receiver and picture and sound is changed to that input. I don't even plan on using the Mitsubishi remote. My Harman Kardon remote can control these three devices.

P.S.- I have regular tvs elsewhere in the house that have vcrs, etc. I don't plan on using them with this setup. I also don't like the idea of the ir emitters on all my equipment.

I recently purchased a 62725 and am having problems with the HDMI input, I cannot tell if its because of my Denon 2910's HDMI out or the Tv's HDMI in. Have any of you experienced a "popping" or "cracking" noise through the Tv speakers using the HDMI input on the 62725? I am new to this HT experience and am wondering if there is something I overlooked or if I have defective equipment. It makes these noises even if there is no dvd playing and I have to tv device set to this particular input. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your time.

Originally posted by Sugardaddy
I recently purchased a 62725 and am having problems with the HDMI input, I cannot tell if its because of my Denon 2910's HDMI out or the Tv's HDMI in. Have any of you experienced a "popping" or "cracking" noise through the Tv speakers using the HDMI input on the 62725? I am new to this HT experience and am wondering if there is something I overlooked or if I have defective equipment. It makes these noises even if there is no dvd playing and I have to tv device set to this particular input. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your time.

A couple of folks have mentioned video "noise" (sparkles or white snow) via HDMI. I think they resolved this with better cables in one case and a more secure connection in another. It's possible this is an audio version of that problem so I'd at least try different cables and making sure the connectors (at both ends) are snug and secure. Let us know how it goes.

DC

Sugardaddy...I use the HDMI input with my DIRECTV Tivo and have no sound problem. However, I am not using the TV sound system but a Pioneer A/V receiver.

Originally posted by Sugardaddy
I recently purchased a 62725 and am having problems with the HDMI input, I cannot tell if its because of my Denon 2910's HDMI out or the Tv's HDMI in. Have any of you experienced a "popping" or "cracking" noise through the Tv speakers using the HDMI input on the 62725? I am new to this HT experience and am wondering if there is something I overlooked or if I have defective equipment. It makes these noises even if there is no dvd playing and I have to tv device set to this particular input. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your time.

I get this not via HDMI on my 2910, but via the STB from Comcast. I hear pops and cracks on the TV and via the Optical cable as well through my AVR-3805.

I've posted this in another forum but nobody knows...

If I have a DVD player connected to a 725 via HDMI and then a digital coax from the 725 back to a receiver. I know if I'm watching HD content via the off-air-tuner I get the digital sound via the coax to the receiver. Any idea if it will pass the digital content through the coax that hits the TV via the HDMI connection? Wouldn't that make sense?

Ive heard cracks and pops through the tv speakers a few times...Seems like it does this the first 5 min when tv is on...

Originally posted by Zues
Ive heard cracks and pops through the tv speakers a few times...Seems like it does this the first 5 min when tv is on...

I've also heard it occassionally when watching cable. Pretty loud. I guess its when I first turn the tv on, but don't remember exactly.

Originally posted by rmeredith
I've posted this in another forum but nobody knows...

If I have a DVD player connected to a 725 via HDMI and then a digital coax from the 725 back to a receiver. I know if I'm watching HD content via the off-air-tuner I get the digital sound via the coax to the receiver. Any idea if it will pass the digital content through the coax that hits the TV via the HDMI connection? Wouldn't that make sense?

Makes sense to me. I don't have an HDMI DVD player, but I can try it with my HD sat. receiver. Currently I just have an optical cable going straight to my AVR from the sat. box (connected to HDMI). I'll try it with the coax and report back..

Originally posted by Zues
Ive heard cracks and pops through the tv speakers a few times...Seems like it does this the first 5 min when tv is on...

Doesn't matter when I turn my TV on. It does this at random. I'll say most is on SD material and not on HD. I'd have to do some more research to find out how much and on what source.

My snaps and crackles are occurring pretty constantly and do not seem to stop. I'll have the TV on for a couple of hours and they are still there. If I switch to any other of my inputs, I get no snaps or crackles. So It seems to me that it should have something to do with the Tv input or the dvd out. I have tried 2 brand new cables and it's still happening. Even if I "wiggle" the cable at the tv input as well as the dvd output, it doesnt do it anymore or any less.

Let me ask my first dumb question of the day. Would it be advised to use the DVI out from the dvd and have it go to the hdmi in on the tv? Or should I just move to the component outs? And, if I were to go Dvi out of the TV, am I correct in assuming that I would still need to run audio from the dvd to the TV?

Once again, thanks for your thoughts

I also got snaps, pops and crackles through my HDMI port which was connected to mt HD TIVO sat box. I exchanged the HD TIVO box (and HDMI cable) for this as well as other issues, and I still have the pops but they are somewhat more subdued and not as noticeable. So I'm not sure what was/is causing them...I just moved to component and no more pops.

On another issue...A while back you may have seen my posts that my set kept reverting back to "Auto" color settings every time I powered it off and on (even though the "Auto" box stayed unchecked - could tell by the fluorescent greens my set gives on Auto). Turned out it was due to me having my HD TIVO box hooked up to the TV through HDMI as well as component (set up as two different devices in Netcommand). Others have reported that they couldn't do this at all. I was able to do it on my set for some reason, but it caused this strange behavior with the color settings.

I had to reset the TV back to factory defaults (not the manual button; I had to press Menu, 1, 2, 3, and enter), and disconnect the HDMI and set everything back up in Netcommand, but now the set is perfect (no halos, no bright spot, no tilt, no reset)!

If all else fails on any strange glitches, try the Menu, 1, 2, 3 Enter reset. It really only takes 5 to 10 minutes to set everything back up. Learned this from a Mitsubishi tech who was going to make a house call if this "soft" reset didn't work.

This is my first post and I wanted to thank everyone for such a great forum - you helped me choose the Mitsu DLP and so far I am pretty darn happy!

I've had my 62725 for a week and a half now and finally was able to hook up the massive antenna I have in the attic to see if I could receive the local digital signals. Since I live about 55 miles from most of the stations antennas and my analog reception on channels 5 and lower wasn't crystal clear, I was anxious to see what woud happen.

Luckily I have great reception and was finally able to watch broadcast HD tonight which was fantastic. The only thing I noticed out of whack is that I too am experiencing occasional popping in the sound while watching HD broadcast (no problems with video at all). I have my speakers turned off on the TV and I am sending analog audio from the TV to my AVR. Since both my DVD and Sat Receiver are run directly to the AVR, sound hasn't been an issue until now.

The sound pops occurred throught the 2 hour program I watched tonight. I'll have to watch more, and see if it's consistent (oh rats, I have to watch more progams on this beautiful TV now)! :)

My 62725 just came in but they can't delivere it until Monday. I don't think I can wait that long so I'm thinking about renting a van and picking it up. (there is rain in the forecast so an open bed truck is probably out).

Does anyone have the demensions of the box? I'm worried that the hight will be too tall for the opening in the back of the van. The length and width should be no problem.

As an alternative, can the set be turned on its side?

Thanks
Bruce

Bruce,

Approximate measurements of my box (62725) are 49.5" Tall by 63.5" long.

Derik

Originally posted by boristhedog
Makes sense to me. I don't have an HDMI DVD player, but I can try it with my HD sat. receiver. Currently I just have an optical cable going straight to my AVR from the sat. box (connected to HDMI). I'll try it with the coax and report back..

OK, I'm an idiot....I forgot my sat. rcvr actually has a DVI output and I'm using a conversion cable to HDMI, hence no audio (except analog) is sent to the TV. So, I still assume if I had a true HDMI device that the TV would send the digital audio out the coax cable to an AVR, but I can't verify that now. Sorry.

I've noticed some popping through the tv speakers on a few occasions, with OTA digital channels. Since it's so random, I chalk it up to some type of interference or problem in the audio stream (I know digital is SUPPOSED to be immune), but the pops are a weak form of the loud distortion I get when I have a temporary dropout of the whole program (video and audio).
Is anyone bothered by the temporary, split-second audio dropout when changing channels? You get audio for a split second, then lose audio for a split second, then everything is fine. It's not bothersome, but it does remind me of the HK receivers with this behavior.

Another minor complaint...Does anyone else see a faint thin ghost line that is about 1/4" away from both top/botton black bars when watching 2.35:1 material? Watched a couple of DVDs and noticed this. Haven't investigated, just wondering if anyone else has seen this. Very minor, especially after living with a CRT Toshiba that suffered from raster-ringing for the past five years.

To chime in on the "pops" discussion, everything is fine when I'm watching SD programming from the satellite, but while watching HD programming this past weekend from the OTA antenna (direct feed via high-quality coax into ANT-1 on the set) I did notice occasional pops in the sound and a couple wierd video effects, such as the picture being offset by about 1/4 screen. These glitches were only for a split second, and occured (sp?) once every 10-15 minutes or so.

I switched inputs to the TiVo box (SD from satellite) to see if the effect was reproduced when watching the same scene via replay, but it wasn't. This led me to believe it was either a minor interruption of the signal, or a momentary glitch in the processing done by the tuner on the TV. Either way, it wasn't annoying enough to be a concern.

Originally posted by the crane
For informational purposes Tweeters warranty was I beleive $349 and covers bulbs and everything else in home for 5 years. The manager, told me their insurance company was planning on raising the price from $349 to $499 in the coming weeks before Christmas. FWIW

At Florida Tweeter, 5 year is $449 and does not cover the bulb.

Wondering if anyone has a cure for this.....

My 52725 is connected to an OTA antenna for HD, but the majority of my viewing is from my Hughes DirecTV TiVo satellite box. To keep life simple for the rest of my family, I chose NOT to try to set up NetCommand, but I DID program the TiVo remote to operate the on/off and volume on the set. That way, the family can pick up one remote and watch TV. When they want to get into other inputs (DVD, HD, etc), then I set it up for them (although my kids are learning how to make the changes faster than my wife).

Here's my question: while using the TiVo remote, occasionally a message will pop up onscreen saying something to the effect of "Please reset remote control to NetCommand mode". Any idea why?

Originally posted by tbone526
Wondering if anyone has a cure for this.....

My 52725 is connected to an OTA antenna for HD, but the majority of my viewing is from my Hughes DirecTV TiVo satellite box. To keep life simple for the rest of my family, I chose NOT to try to set up NetCommand, but I DID program the TiVo remote to operate the on/off and volume on the set. That way, the family can pick up one remote and watch TV. When they want to get into other inputs (DVD, HD, etc), then I set it up for them (although my kids are learning how to make the changes faster than my wife).

Here's my question: while using the TiVo remote, occasionally a message will pop up onscreen saying something to the effect of "Please reset remote control to NetCommand mode". Any idea why?

The only time I see that "Please reset remote control to NetCommand..." message is when I go to use the remote only to find that my wife has slid the switch on the remote to DVD (even though I've told her it's not necessary since NetCommand knows how to control my DVD player).

Also, there are known conflicts with NetCommand and Tivo units, like the "exchange" PIP button happens to be the same IR signal for "last channel" on the Tivo (search back on this thread a few pages for more details).

I did a search on Tivo within this forum but I did not see one that addressed my specific problem.

I have my cable (no box, no digital) split. One feed goes into the TV (antenna 1) and the other goes into the Tivo box. I then have the tivo connected to the TV via S video into input 1.

The SD picture is much better coming from cable as opposed to the Tivo. I will try component video but asked a friend who has the same setup (but with component) and he gets the same results.

I know tivo converts digital into analog but I don't have digital in the first place. Is there anything I can do?

After months of my wife telling me that we don't need tivo and she did not want to pay for it, she is now pissed that we can't watch SD via Tivo! It is still better than missing shows, but I do want to be able to pause and rewind live tv.


Thanks!

I have a Dishnet 811 receiver on order. Currently I'm running my dvd, 2 vcr's and 2 sat dishes thru my Denon AVR. With the 811 I think I'll be able to run everything thru the Mitsu and have the mitsu just feed the audio to the Denon. Has anyone installed the 811 and what's the best way to do it?

Originally posted by Sugardaddy
I recently purchased a 62725 and am having problems with the HDMI input, I cannot tell if its because of my Denon 2910's HDMI out or the Tv's HDMI in. Have any of you experienced a "popping" or "cracking" noise through the Tv speakers using the HDMI input on the 62725?

I have experienced the audible cracking/popping from my Mits 52725 speakers when playing DVDs on a Denon 2910 over an HDMI connection, when the 2910 is setup to output 2-channel audio over HDMI. But when I play the DVD over an analog audio and component video connection, there is no cracking/popping. I tried a number of HDMI cables with the same result: cracking/popping. The cracking/popping does not happen at the same place in the DVDs, and can even happen when the DVD is "paused". To determine if it was the 2910 or the 52725, I took the 2910 to the store where I purchased the 52725 and hooked it up to a 52525 using HDMI, and there was no audio problem. The store representative and I concluded that it was a problem with my Mitz 52725. Since the 52725 is in the "return period", they are going to provide me a replacement 52725 delivered to my home tomorrow. At that time we can see if the new set has the same problem.

I got a cabling problem I've spent about 60 hours trying to figure out with no luck, hopefully somebody can give me the lowdown. I'm currently running the DVD through component and have the DVD audio cables plugged into the audio jacks adjacent to the component jacks. I have the audio out jacks from the Mitsubishi (the ones at the very top) running to the video 2 audio jacks on my reciever. The digital out from the Mitsubishi is running to the digital in jack on the receiver. I now have to set the reciever to Video 2 to get sound from the DVD or the TV instead of setting it to DVD when using the DVD player. Also I have to set the reciver input mode to analog or I get no sound at all. Sounds like something is not quite right, any suggestions?

GROND.

Most receivers require the user to determine which digital input is assigned to any given component input. i.e. "Coax #1 to TV", "OPT. #1 to DVD", and so on.

this way, when you toggle the Digital/Analog setting of yoru receiver, it's audio source is the correct component.

Using your receivers Video 2 for "TV audio listening" is fine. For DVD viewing it's best to just turn down the TV volume and use the direct DVD-player to receiver digital connection. Be it for simple stereo, 5.1, or 6.1. However, should you just want to watch a home movie DVD with the TV's speakers, the analog RCA connections will be there for that as well.

Originally posted by lokiWoden
Since the 52725 is in the "return period", they are going to provide me a replacement 52725 delivered to my home tomorrow. At that time we can see if the new set has the same problem.

Let me know what you find out. Im afraid that Im probably going to have to do the same thing (exchange). I'll probably take the 2910 into the store and try it on one of their tv's just to rule it out, if possible. Very frustrating!

Originally posted by IFLYSWA
You kind of already did... :D

I purchased some 50 days ago, receiving 10% off MAP. UE has a 60 day price guarantee, but I am pretty sure it only applies to local competitors. I bought the 5 year warranty, as well, without bulb coverage. I might have to go in this weekend to poke around a little...maybe they might float me a little store credit even if I can't get any cash back!!! :)

-Randy

I originally posted so people would not get ripped off. I wanted everyone else to get the same deal. It was not meant to be a "nanny nanny poo poo" post. I have asked my friend to post so y'all don't think he is my imaginary friend! :)

WARNING

This entire thread is in danger of being deleted. All talk of pricing on these TV's other then MSRP will be deleted without warning. All talk of receipt sharing will also be deleted. This is not a pricing site. We are here as a support site

Please adhere to the rules created by the admins. Read this post.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=300703

I posted a question a few days back about the digital coax connection on the back of these sets. I wanted to report back my findings...

I connected a Denon 2910 to the 525 via HDMI. Then, used a digital coax connection back to the receiver. This DOES NOT work. It will only pass audio from the Ant connections.

-robert

Can someone confirm for me that they can get unencrypted QAM (no cablecard) and ATSC at the same time? It looks like this may solve a problem for me if this works. I could get the HD locals off of Comcast, and then use the antenna to get the two stations comcast doesn't carry.

Also, anyone know if you can change channels on the set via firewire? Was looking at Firebus, but didn't know if Firebus could send channel change data to the set or not.

-Laudon

Originally posted by Sugardaddy
Let me know what you find out. Im afraid that Im probably going to have to do the same thing (exchange). I'll probably take the 2910 into the store and try it on one of their tv's just to rule it out, if possible. Very frustrating!
No joy!

The replacement 52725 has the same problem as the original 52725 (i.e. snapping and crackling from TV's speakers when fed using HDMI cable from Denon 2910 using L/R audio channel setup in the Denon for HDMI).
Original 52725 serial number (SN) was 100311.
Replacement SN was 100313.
Probably a "bad production run", judging from the nearly adjacent SN's.

I kept the original TV while the store contacts Mitsubishi to see what can be done about the problem.
If nothing can be done, I will return the set and try a different manufacturer of DLPs: maybe a Samsung as there seems to be less fan noise on their sets.

Since manufactures seem to be switching to HDMI outputs instead of the legacy DVI outputs, the problem with the HDMI input on the Mits 52725 is a deal-breaker for me.

Originally posted by eldub1999
Can someone confirm for me that they can get unencrypted QAM (no cablecard) and ATSC at the same time? It looks like this may solve a problem for me if this works. I could get the HD locals off of Comcast, and then use the antenna to get the two stations comcast doesn't carry.


That does work. I believe that you can even setup channels from 2 different tuners to be on the same SQV setup.

Originally posted by eldub1999
Can someone confirm for me that they can get unencrypted QAM (no cablecard) and ATSC at the same time? It looks like this may solve a problem for me if this works. I could get the HD locals off of Comcast, and then use the antenna to get the two stations comcast doesn't carry.

Also, anyone know if you can change channels on the set via firewire? Was looking at Firebus, but didn't know if Firebus could send channel change data to the set or not.

-Laudon

You can surely get OTA HD from the ATSC tuner and unencrypted QAm signals... they will just be separate devices... to watch the ATSC channels, you will have to switch devices to ANT-2 and ANT-1 will receive the QAM stations..

Picked up an official Advanced A/V Pack from XBOX with component cables yesterday. I'm seeing the same problems as the first.

When viewing relatively dark scenes, there are very noticeable vertical bands on the entire width of the screen. There will be a small column of dark background with an adjacent lighter brownish black column.

I've tried all the component inputs on my 725, and like I mentioned, this is the second pack I purchased. Interestingly, the composite video doesn't produce this image problem.

I setup the XBOX (with no disc in) to output 480i, 480p, 720p, etc.

Has anyone else seen this?

I wouldnt use the av pack just get basic microsoft component cables for $20.... Im playin halo 2 and its unbelievable...

Well, I must thank everyone for their input on this thread. I purchased a 62725 in September before they were available but I was waiting for delivery because I wanted the stand from the 62825. I took delivery on Friday and was disappointed with the Analog presentation. I was told it could be less than I was seeing on my old RPTV but did not understand how much worse.

I currently do not have any analog or digital converter from the cable company. I could not receive any local HD channels off my cable. The tuner acknowledges that there are HD channels but doesn't display so I can only view the digital channels. They are 'good' to excellent if I don't expand or zoom them...... the analog channels are poor as I am seeing 'ghosting'.. and video noise during the day but better at night. My other TVs show no signs of this problem. I assume that it is a setting. I tried to use the video noise reduction and seem to make it worse when I set it on.

I bought an indoor OTA antenna and HD is unbelievably clear (the one station that I can receive). My intent is to go to the CC and I have that ordered. But I would like to minimize this problem. I have read all the posts and this ghosting has been mentioned many times but I don't remember if there was any resolution. I can't seem to get a good search for previous posts to give me all relevant material and I don't want to read all 78 pages... again...

Q... Has anyone found this type of noise or ghosting problem? If so have you been able to eliminate or minimize this analog noise... ?

I've had two 52725s so far and neither have really had any audio problems. I am, however, having more problems with my second set. My first set had the 03 firmware release and it was freezing up frequently. I exchanged it and the new set had the 02 firmware. After several days, the new set started dropping all of the channels from both ANT1 and ANT2. I called MITS and they sent out the 03 firmware. I put that in this morning and just got another freeze. I pressed the channel up button, the screen went black, and none of the controls worked. I finally had to unplug the set for 10 mins. I'll give MITS a call tomorrow, but unless they have a fix, I'm afraid I may be sending this one back for a refund and look for something else.

Originally posted by jackmd
Well, I must thank everyone for their input on this thread. I purchased a 62725 in September before they were available but I was waiting for delivery because I wanted the stand from the 62825. I took delivery on Friday and was disappointed with the Analog presentation. I was told it could be less than I was seeing on my old RPTV but did not understand how much worse.

I currently do not have any analog or digital converter from the cable company. I could not receive any local HD channels off my cable. The tuner acknowledges that there are HD channels but doesn't display so I can only view the digital channels. They are 'good' to excellent if I don't expand or zoom them...... the analog channels are poor as I am seeing 'ghosting'.. and video noise during the day but better at night. My other TVs show no signs of this problem. I assume that it is a setting. I tried to use the video noise reduction and seem to make it worse when I set it on.

I bought an indoor OTA antenna and HD is unbelievably clear (the one station that I can receive). My intent is to go to the CC and I have that ordered. But I would like to minimize this problem. I have read all the posts and this ghosting has been mentioned many times but I don't remember if there was any resolution. I can't seem to get a good search for previous posts to give me all relevant material and I don't want to read all 78 pages... again...

Q... Has anyone found this type of noise or ghosting problem? If so have you been able to eliminate or minimize this analog noise... ?

Sorry, I've had no ghosting problem - but I have direcTV - but, I've got a question -
How does it look on the stand for the 825? Any pics? Are all the dimensions the same?

All,

Well I have to confirm that I have noticed the audio popping on my 62725....Yes...62". It seems to only be on Digital channels(HD and non-HD) and I can get it to go away by tuning to Standard TV channels and then back to Digital channels. I'm waiting to see just how bad it is before I call the store. I have had my 62725 for about a month or so now and have spent alot of time tweaking it for best picture.

FYI...My setup is Comcast Cable (Souther nj-old Garden State Cable)
Scientic Atlanta 3250HD STB connected via component to DTV input
Progressinve Scan DVD connected to Component 1
Integra DTR-6 AVR (Switcable using NetCommand).

I'll continue my testing and post findings.

Andy

Hello, we had our new 62825 installed last week and love the set. I need some recommendations for a stand. We are returning the MIT's matching black stand because of lack of storage space and shallow depth (my Yamaha AV receiver is too deep to fit). I would prefer a black two shelf stand with a maximum width of 58 inches. The height should not exceed 24 inches, and less if possible. Depth is not an issue. I will really appreciate your recommendations as quickly as possible. Thanks!

Originally posted by Zues
I wouldnt use the av pack just get basic microsoft component cables for $20.... Im playin halo 2 and its unbelievable...

Zues,

I think we're talking about the same thing. The Advanced A/V Pack is the Microsoft Component Cable Package for $19.99.

If I remember correctly, the strange thing is that when I first turn the XBOX on, I get the black screen with the logo. I don't think the bands show up on that screen, just when I start a DVD.

Anyone have any thoughts?


,Agk

Also...doesn't happen on any other input (Cable, DVD, Game, etc)


Originally posted by phillyaj
All,

Well I have to confirm that I have noticed the audio popping on my 62725....Yes...62". It seems to only be on Digital channels(HD and non-HD) and I can get it to go away by tuning to Standard TV channels and then back to Digital channels. I'm waiting to see just how bad it is before I call the store. I have had my 62725 for about a month or so now and have spent alot of time tweaking it for best picture.

FYI...My setup is Comcast Cable (Souther nj-old Garden State Cable)
Scientic Atlanta 3250HD STB connected via component to DTV input
Progressinve Scan DVD connected to Component 1
Integra DTR-6 AVR (Switcable using NetCommand).

I'll continue my testing and post findings.

Andy

Originally posted by hidefkindaguy
Hello, we had our new 62825 installed last week and love the set. I need some recommendations for a stand. We are returning the MIT's matching black stand because of lack of storage space and shallow depth (my Yamaha AV receiver is too deep to fit). I would prefer a black two shelf stand with a maximum width of 58 inches. The height should not exceed 24 inches, and less if possible. Depth is not an issue. I will really appreciate your recommendations as quickly as possible. Thanks!

Welcome aboard! I bought this stand for my 62725...the TV hangs over about an inch and a half on each side, but I don't think it looks bad. And I really love the stand. The UE delivery guys even commented on it when they delivered the set, and I figure they see pretty much everything! :D


Z-Line Stand (http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Z-Line-Designs-55--TV-Stand--Z22-1S-/sem/rpsm/oid/93807/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do)

Check it out and good luck...

Randy

Originally posted by hodag17
Sorry, I've had no ghosting problem - but I have direcTV - but, I've got a question -
How does it look on the stand for the 825? Any pics? Are all the dimensions the same?

The stand fits perfect looks much better than the others... IMHO.. Of course my opinion only matters.. My wife is much happier... that counts..:D

One signifigant problem it created was I now need another rack for my stuff.. the silver XX725 stands would have held almost all of it but the XX825 stand has almost no room and bearly holds my DVD player..


I can take a pic.. will post later...

Just noting another weird behavior with my 62725, which may be helpful for others. The last couple of days, I've had occasion where I will tune to a digital channel, but the content displayed will be from another station! For example, I'll tune to NBC-HD (5-1 locally), and the info will indicate it as such, but the actual content is CBS-HD (11-1). Weird. I fix it by sometimes just using the SQV feature, or sometimes it requires an 'erase' and 'add' toggle. I've also seen where it displayed 21-2 content when tuning to 21-1. If this becomes a regular behavior, I'll contact Mits to see what they say. For now, it's not enough of a bother. I thought things were supposed to be better when going digital :), but I guess that's only true when you have solid digital coding.

I have had my WD-62725 for 2 weeks and I noticed over the weekend that while watching football, teams with orange in the uniforms look more red?? Any ideas on what colors to reduce or increase to make the orange more prominent?? The Bengals, Florida Gators, Browns, the 'C' on the Bears helmet, etc. are some of the ones I saw as red.

I received my WD-62725, and although I love the set, I seem to be experiencing every problem listed in this thread:
1) Tilt issue
2) Light leakage/bright spot
3) Popping/clipping noise

I am working on fixing #1 and #2, but am surprised at #3, since I am using an A/V receiver and external speakers (Rotel + B&W). Does audio come from the speakers anytime the TV is on? Where is it getting an audio signal from if the receiver is getting the audio cable? Could it be the receiver (the clipping is only on the left side)?
The clipping comes while playing DVD's or watching cable, but not listening to CD's with the TV off.
Any ideas?

I just spoke to Tech Support about my latest freezing problem and the guy said that the 04 firmware release is due out after Thanksgiving. I don't want to raise any false hopes, but he said it included an audio fix. I asked if this was for the popping and he said yes. He said there was another fix in the release, but he didn't know what it was because they hadn't gotten the details yet. I'm hoping it relates to resets using the tuner.

I'm also having a service guy come out to look at another problem I am having with the right bar sloping down to the right about 1/2".

He didn't give an exact date for the release. I wish they would post this info on their web site.

Originally posted by garciab
Just noting another weird behavior with my 62725, which may be helpful for others. The last couple of days, I've had occasion where I will tune to a digital channel, but the content displayed will be from another station! For example, I'll tune to NBC-HD (5-1 locally), and the info will indicate it as such, but the actual content is CBS-HD (11-1). Weird. I fix it by sometimes just using the SQV feature, or sometimes it requires an 'erase' and 'add' toggle. I've also seen where it displayed 21-2 content when tuning to 21-1. If this becomes a regular behavior, I'll contact Mits to see what they say. For now, it's not enough of a bother. I thought things were supposed to be better when going digital :), but I guess that's only true when you have solid digital coding. I have noticed this as well. Additionally, some stations that I previously edited out, keep re-appearing from time to time. Since my primary source is my HD Tivo, none of this is enough of a problem for me to call Mits about. It seems all of these problems are probably repairable with soft-ware updates.

Originally posted by jackmd
The stand fits perfect looks much better than the others... IMHO.. Of course my opinion only matters.. My wife is much happier... that counts..:D

One signifigant problem it created was I now need another rack for my stuff.. the silver XX725 stands would have held almost all of it but the XX825 stand has almost no room and bearly holds my DVD player..


I can take a pic.. will post later...

If you could take a pic - that'd be great, if you want, email it to me directly at
hodag17@newnorth.net

I am about to pull the trigger on the 52725 and I currently have DirectTV. I also have Comcast for internet access and one tv (office) set up for cable. I have watched Comcast HD at a friends house on his 65" Diamond Rear Projection and the broadcasts are incredible. On digital cable, he has ghost and an otherwise mediocre picture. Do I go w/Comcast HD until Directv gets its' act together on HD or upgrade my Direct TV and get the new dish, etc? The tough part is that Comcast has all the local channels and it is no additional out of pocket, though I prefer Directv on NTSC broadcasts and customer service. Thanks. Alan

Originally posted by hodag17
If you could take a pic - that'd be great, if you want, email it to me directly at
hodag17@newnorth.net


OK.. This is the XX825 base with glass open

Originally posted by hodag17
If you could take a pic - that'd be great, if you want, email it to me directly at
hodag17@newnorth.net

This is the whole look...

The grille black is not such a difference without the effects of the flash:confused:

Hidefkindaguy,

Check out Bello' AVSC 2601. I bought it last week for about 650 + tax. Its MSRP is $750. It has plenty of component storage, is 21" inches high and fits the 62725 well. I was also looking at the Z-line stand but it is a little narrow. The Bello stand is perfect and matches the TV color. It is more expensive but I'd rather get something I'm perfectly happy with than regret later on.

Originally posted by AEC
I am about to pull the trigger on the 52725 and I currently have DirectTV. I also have Comcast for internet access and one tv (office) set up for cable. I have watched Comcast HD at a friends house on his 65" Diamond Rear Projection and the broadcasts are incredible. On digital cable, he has ghost and an otherwise mediocre picture. Do I go w/Comcast HD until Directv gets its' act together on HD or upgrade my Direct TV and get the new dish, etc? The tough part is that Comcast has all the local channels and it is no additional out of pocket, though I prefer Directv on NTSC broadcasts and customer service. Thanks. Alan

I have D* also, (with TiVo built in). I stuck with D* but did NOT go to their HD service. With D*, you would STILL need an OTA antenna to pick up your local channels in HD. Because I bought the Mitsu, I'm able to get the local channels in HD without any additional hardware (just can't use my TiVo functions). When watching off the satellite, the programs are just in SD (but VERY high quality).

When the HD TiVo unit comes down to $400 or less, I'll consider upgrading my D* service to their HD package. Until then, since I don't get any premium channels, I don't think it's worth it.

I've had my set lock up a few times and went ahead and called for a firmware re-install (same ver. xxx4.03). The problem went away for a week but then a couple of days ago the set locked up. Using the re-set button on the front worked but I also did a rescan of OTA stations. This time my NBC station was added as both an analogue and digital but the digital was not re-named. I thought this was funny, but let it go. Then yesterday the set froze up again. This time I had to pull the plug to get it to turn back on. Now awaiting a call back from Mits.

Has anyone else done a firmware re-install without solving the freeze up problem?

Here's some pics of my WD-52725 on a Z-Line Maxim Magazine Stand.



http://gallery.avsforum.com/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=7475640

Originally posted by Waxman
I have had my WD-62725 for 2 weeks and I noticed over the weekend that while watching football, teams with orange in the uniforms look more red?? Any ideas on what colors to reduce or increase to make the orange more prominent?? The Bengals, Florida Gators, Browns, the 'C' on the Bears helmet, etc. are some of the ones I saw as red.


I saw the same thing during the UF/FSU game!

Speaking of color adjustments...

While watching the race this past weekend I had the PIP running with the race on the large screen in high-def (being fed by my OTA antenna through ANT-1 to the Mitsu tuner), and the same image on the smaller screen in standard-def (coming from D* satellite box through S-video). The high-def image tended to have more red in fleshtones for the same pictures side by side.

Is this a difference in the way the images are processed? Can I adjust how it handles the OTA signal separately from how it handles the other inputs?

Originally posted by tbone526
Is this a difference in the way the images are processed? Can I adjust how it handles the OTA signal separately from how it handles the other inputs?
I am not sure about what happens during PIP, but the Mits DLPs allow you to adjust the video settings for each input separately, including the Antenna inputs, although on some TVs both Antenna inputs share the same video settings (not sure about the Mits DLPs here).

Michael

Just posted some pics of the screen removed off of my 62-525...not the glare shield, the SCREEN... Tech had to come clean my internal mirrors, When he left, I did my own cleaning and tooke these pics posted here....

post... (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4704031#post4704031)

Originally posted by tbone526
Speaking of color adjustments...

Is this a difference in the way the images are processed? Can I adjust how it handles the OTA signal separately from how it handles the other inputs?

I would think that the difference was the chip sets used to process the picture. They probably are different and use different algorithms to to produce the picture. I would assume.. that the Mits chip set takes into account the total system. Hopefully the final product of processing the OTA signal was not subject to influences of the SAT/Cable Transmission methods...

Either I'm cursed or my TV's are. I'm now on my (count em) third (and last)WD-62725.

1st set. Couldn't get the brightness range to come up completely. It took over 60 seconds for the set to come on.

2nd set Vertical lines appeared on entire screen of the set. When you went to a blank screen, they appeared as black lines.

3rd set. Grey smudge spot 2 inches around on the left side of the screen. It wasn't on the shield. It wasn't noticable until there was a blank area in the background, then it stuck out like a sore thumb.

Even on all three sets, there is a green cast around peoples heads or faces.

No matter what color adjustment I set the TV at, it's still there.

I'm upgrading to the 825. If I have problems with it, No more Mitsubishi for me. I've had it.

The smudges are dirt particles on the internal primary mirror (easily cleaned)....I had green halo arond simpson's and Family guy...those are really the only two shows Ive ever seen green halo.....and that was only on an episode each...not see that since second week I got mine a couple months ago....

Originally posted by JeffH57
Even on all three sets, there is a green cast around peoples heads or faces.


Mine does this with basic cable from the wall. After my cable box, all is well.

My set does not do the green halos with OTA signals.

Folks, the green halos have been there since day one on the '525 series. Some of us early buyers noticed them and reported here in AVS. Seems to be most prevalent using the internal tuner, less so (mostly non-existent) on the other inputs. In my setup, the Comcast cable STB (Moto 6200) drives the Mits DTV input using component. I have an ever so slight (you don't see it unless you're looking for it) green halo using the Moto tuner. Very obvious and annoying green halo using the Mits tuner - on the same cable channels. Maybe it's a cableco thing?

To the best of my knowledge, Mits is not working on a fix. Either because they don't know about the green halos, or it cannot be fixed. I complained to a servicer (who was attempting to fix the so-called "tilt" issue), but he would not call it in; he said this was normal in NTSC and all TVs will have it - due to some delay of RED information in the signal. Whatever, I'm not convinced because the Moto tuner doesn't do it...

I think the best way to resolve this halo issue one way or the other is to place service calls under your Mits warranty. It seems that Mits will take notice when their servicer network reports issues, as opposed to end-consumers calling in. BTW, it's also more expensive to them to reimburse their independent servicers than to field phone calls.... Besides, I think Mits' internal processes do not recognize customer feedback to the phone support people. Seems like no matter what end-users like us say to the phone "tech support", it's just not given the same credibility as a factory authorized service center saying the same thing.

Originally posted by AtlantaGatorLee
I saw the same thing during the UF/FSU game!

I'm glad I'm not the only one who noticed this. If someone knows of a way to make this better please let us know. When I called the store they said Mitsu is notorious for strong reds. I tried reducing the red some last night when I was watching the Texas BB game and I'm not sure it helped that much. Oranges are coming through fine on regular shows, just don't seem to always come through on sports which bugs me!!

Originally posted by JeffH57
It took over 60 seconds for the set to come on.



Don't all 525's take 60 seconds to come on?

Originally posted by JeffH57
Either I'm cursed or my TV's are. I'm now on my (count em) third (and last)WD-62725.

1st set. Couldn't get the brightness range to come up completely. It took over 60 seconds for the set to come on.

2nd set Vertical lines appeared on entire screen of the set. When you went to a blank screen, they appeared as black lines.

3rd set. Grey smudge spot 2 inches around on the left side of the screen. It wasn't on the shield. It wasn't noticable until there was a blank area in the background, then it stuck out like a sore thumb.

Even on all three sets, there is a green cast around peoples heads or faces.

No matter what color adjustment I set the TV at, it's still there.

I'm upgrading to the 825. If I have problems with it, No more Mitsubishi for me. I've had it.

This was posted WAY back on page tone of thes thread. scpanel - Are you still happy with these settings?


Originally posted by scpanel
After another calibration w/AVIA in a dark room last night before watching a movie, here is where I have the settings on the 52725. This is DVD input over component at 480P. My Panasonic that up converts didn't make it here yesterday so this is with my older Toshiba SD 6200.

I am using the HDMI for my DISH DVR 921, at least for now, and this set now has only about 11 hours on it and nowhere near broken in yet! This is about as close as I could come with the color test patterns.

Magenta 30
Red 28
Yellow 32
Green 33
Cyan 28
Blue 28

Contrast 20
Brightness 49
Sharpness 22
Temp Low
Tint 28
Color 38
V Noise std
Edge off

Even with my room back-lit it still seemed at times still to bright during movie playback in a dark room. So I am really anxious to get an idea of others settings as they get their sets. I plan on spending more time w/it this weekend.

I too have noticed as others have the green halo effect on the cable SD channels at times anyway and have seen just a few rainbows so far, which doesn't really bother me. And already mentioned the glare previously.

I think so far the picture is much better than my previous set the SONY GWIII and the blacks are deeper.

So far other than the initial problem w/the HDMI port all is well, but wonder if others will have the same problem w/the HDMI and if its orientation is part of the problem. I tried 2 different cables and had the same problem until as I mentioned earlier in the thread, crimped the HDMI connector to make it fit more snuggly in the TV input.

I plan on leaving it run all weekend and try more DVD's tonight. More to come but so far we are pretty impressed.

I actually returned the Mits, as the halo problem and resets drove me crazy. I now trying out a Sammy 5674 (might be a little to big though) and no longer see halos and no reset problem. Plus the Sammy comes on in about 3-5 seconds.

I called Mits for a service call for the halo problem and the tech called Mits tech support but they told him that it was the technology and normal, yeah right...

Hi everyone,

I recently posted the following (see below) in the "Mitsubishi 525/725/825 Bright Spot Issue" thread. I feel that anyone considering buying a Mits DLP TV needs to be aware of the runaround a bunch of us (10 so far) are getting from Mits on this Bright spot issue. The way Mits is handling this is just plain embarrassing. I spoke with the service center by phone just a few minutes ago and the person I talked to said they still stand by the "within Spec" comment and that he doesn't believe anyone is doing anything to research what the problem is and a potential fix. I am extremely frustrated and just trying to get the word out so others can make informed choices.

Thanks

----------
Hey all,

As I've said before in other posts I'm on my second 62725 TV (the first one had finger prints on the inside mirrors and when they fixed that they messed up the alignment so it had to be returned) and this one has the annoying large bright spot problem.

For those of you that recently had your LE replaced, how did you get Mits to authorize it?

So far Mits has told me and the retailer I purchased my set from (Ultimate Electronics) that this large bright spot (looks like a large cloud when there are dark scenes or content on the screen) is within their spec and they (Mits) won't do anything to fix it. Therefore my retailer says they can't replace the LE until Mits acknowledges the problem.

This is so ridiculous. I had 7 people over the other day and within 5 minutes of watching the TV they all pointed out this flaw and stated that it negatively impacted their viewing experience. I didn't have to point it out, they all saw it on their own.

I'm getting impatient here. Mits says they are looking into it but it's been over 30 days now. People purchasing these Mitsubishi TVs need to be aware of this issue. I've owned other Mits products over the years, including another large screen CRT TV, and I specifically purchased Mits for their high level of quality and customer service standards.

However, if they are going to hold to a position that what is clearly abnormal (a large bright spot on an otherwise uniform dark screen/scene) is somehow "within spec" and not authorize any fix or replacement, I am soon to the point of becoming an ardent supporter of letting the public know just how customer and quality unfriendly Mits has become. So much for statements on the mitsubishi-tv.com website about "Perfect Picture, Perfect color, etc." and setting a higher standard for picture quality.

How can they say that when dark scenes that I see have a large white cloud in the middle of the screen?

BUYERS NEED TO BEWARE. Until Mits acknowledges and fixes this problem, anyone who buys the Mits line of DLP TV's and gets one with this bright spot problem (and so far 10 on this forum have said that they have the problem) may be stuck with a defect that Mits says is ok.

I hope this issue gets resolved quickly. Thanks everyone for listening to me rant. I love the TV and just want one that works as it should.

Thanks

SBrown: Please see the link below which is the Mitsubishi "Bright Spot Issue" Thread. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=467700

AEC,

Yes, as I noted in the start of my post I am aware of the Bright Spot Issue thread and had posted the info there first. I wasn't sure how to do a link so I just copied the text over to this thread. Anyway, I've been communicating closely with UMD_Terp and others who are experiencing the same thing as I am. UMD_Terp recently got his issues fixed not because Mits acknowledged the bright spot problem, but because he was also having an issue with vertical lines on his screen and Mits fixed it for that problem. So far Mits is still ignoring the rest of us with the bright spot problem.

I bought my Mits WD-52725 about 40 days ago. Last weekend I woke up and was told by my roommate that the TV wouldn't turn on. I noticed that the Status light was a solid red. I went and tried the power button a few times, then hit the reset button. The light went out for a second or so before coming back on as red. I then unplugged the TV for 10 seconds, and upon giving it power the light came back on within a second. I checked the manual and it said that a solid red under status requires maintance by a Mits dealer. I bought the TV at the Good Guys, and was told that it would take them 12 days to send someone out to check out my TV. I'm pretty upset, a $4,000 TV that is less than 40 days old is no longer usable and no one will be able to check it out for nearly two weeks.

Onto the second TV. A friend of mine bought the same TV 4 or 5 days before me. I told him about my problem Sat morning. Since then he said that his TV has lost video three times over the weekend. One time while he was watching a HDMI feed, the second time while watching the Componet 1 input, and the third time while watching the Componet 2 input. He had to turn the TV off to get the video back. While his problem is not as serious as mine it is still an issue and could be an indicator to future problems. He called Mits and they said it could require a firmware update and that they would send someone out.

Has anyone else had these problems? My only personal experience with the TV thus far as not been good.

Hi,

First time posting... I've had the 52725 for about 6 weeks now and have the following inputs to it:

OTA antenna - coax
DTV Tivo (regular) - SVideo
DTV HD (Samsung SIR-TS360) - HDMI-DVI
Sony NS575P - Component

The problems I have are:

1. CCW tilt
2. Picture is very dark. In a bright scene, everything is great but black is all I would see in a dark scene.
3. Continuous flashing and shifting red horizontal line with the Samsung box for HD and SD channels.

I've had a tech from Ultimate Electronics come out already to look at problems 1 and 2. (Just got the Samsung HD so he didnt see it yet, I'm guessing it's not a TV problem but is a problem with the receiver.) Anyway, he sees the tilt, as well as the darkness issue. Mits recommended changing the lamp as a first step and the results are the same. They are now sending a new chasis to Ultimate (and not the light engine), so we'll see how that goes.

I didnt make it through all the posts but anyone else with similar problems? Comments?

Thanks for your help

ed

Originally posted by TomTx
I've had my set lock up a few times and went ahead and called for a firmware re-install (same ver. xxx4.03). The problem went away for a week but then a couple of days ago the set locked up. Using the re-set button on the front worked but I also did a rescan of OTA stations. This time my NBC station was added as both an analogue and digital but the digital was not re-named. I thought this was funny, but let it go. Then yesterday the set froze up again. This time I had to pull the plug to get it to turn back on. Now awaiting a call back from Mits.

Has anyone else done a firmware re-install without solving the freeze up problem?

Tom,

I did an upgrade from 02 to 03 firmware on my 52725 to fix some tuner problems and ended up with a freeze problem. This is my second set. I returned my first set (had 03 firmware) because it also had reset problems. I think it's an 03 firmware bug with the OTA Tuner. I'm hoping the 04 release fixes the resets.

I'm using a Dish 921 PVR with my 52725. I had been using the component video cables, but I finally sprung for the DVI (Dish is DVI) to HDMI cable. I have noticed that, on the HDMI input, I need to turn the contrast to max and back way off the brightness to get the same picture as the component input. I don't know if it's the receiver or the Mits. Anyone else notice this with HDMI?

I also noticed a significant difference in sound via the HDMI audio inputs - much better.

And, as others have said, the HDMI connector is very touchy. Initially I had reverse video until I reseated the connector. I have tied the cable up to the button that held in the power cord to reduce the strain.

The HDMI interface is technically the best interface to use but the connector is terrible. I have had the HDMI cable become disconnected 3 times now. They should have designed a positive locking mechanism for that connector! A couple jack-screws or retaining clips, something.

A while back, someone did a switching comparison between HDMI and another input. Don't know if it was component or vga. If I recall correctly, he described the HDMI image as looking slightly washed out, but superior (I don't remember why).

Thanks. I really don't see much difference in quality between HDMI and component. Maybe it's because I'm coming from DVI or maybe it's the receiver. I'll have to spend some more time watching the HDMI.

Originally posted by ethw
1. CCW tilt
2. Picture is very dark. In a bright scene, everything is great but black is all I would see in a dark scene.
3. Continuous flashing and shifting red horizontal line with the Samsung box for HD and SD channels.


For Tilt, look here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4351024#post4351024

For brightness, I can only suggest a common picture from which to base comparison on. Something like the Brightness/Contrast image from the Digital Video Essentials DVD. To this day I play around with the brightness and contrast. For the most part, brightness us up around 3/4 and contrast is below halfway. There can't be any one setting that suits all pictures. Lets face it, some movies prefer to be dark, or tinted in color. I want to see facial expressions. If I wanted darkness, I'd watch Pitch Black. ;)

Do I need a cable box (I'm on comcast) to view HDTV or can the 62725 handle it w/out the box.

I hate those dig. cable boxes.

Originally posted by jpaulr
Do I need a cable box (I'm on comcast) to view HDTV or can the 62725 handle it w/out the box.

I hate those dig. cable boxes. The XXX25 DLPs will take a digital Cable Card from Comcast, but you lose some of the set-top box features like program guide and video on demand. You will get all the channels from Comcast that you get with the box, however.

Originally posted by jpaulr
Do I need a cable box (I'm on comcast) to view HDTV or can the 62725 handle it w/out the box.

I hate those dig. cable boxes.

It is my experience that if they send out digital unscrambled signals you will decode them without the CC. If they send out HDTV unscrambled you will also get those stations. Each cable company is different.

I received my 62725 and do not have a cable box. I did decode the digital unscrambled channels and the Mits replaced the analog with the digital that were the same. In my case there where five.. Some thread I read stated that they had to have some number of unscrambled digital stations/channels... some sort of regulation. In my cable company these were stations I rarely viewed. The Mits found HD signal on the cable but only showed ones that I found out later were on a test.. for HD movies on demand.. So technically the tuner will receive anything that is there.

I ordered a CC from my cable company so I could get the local HDTV stations. I can receive 6 OTA but the cost me for the CC is less than the cost of a gallon of unleaded regular gas to rent the CC per month so it is economically unfeasible to put up an OTA antenna... I don't have it installed yet... so I don't know what it will really get me.. Sunday afternoon is my install date... BTW, there was also an install fee and the installer from the cable company must install the card..

Okay - thank you both.

I'll give it a try straight off the coax and see what I get. I'm not inclined to give the cable company any more money than what I already do. I'll search Comcast's site for some info on exactly what stations are coming in HD and if it is truly worth it to get the CC.

Also, in my case, this TV is 75% for movies, 25% for sports, and 0% for kids cartoons / and the every present I'm-home-from-school-my-homework-is-finished-so-I'll-watch-Cyberchase.

If I can't get the local channels in HD w/out the CC (that would be key to watching Football) then I'll get the CC.

Again, thanks for the help.

Paul

Does anyone realize this thread is over 1600 posts?

Question for the Mitsubishi folks.

Just received a 52725 and have it under the standard 30 day eval.

Now I can see rainbows sometimes. Dark scenes with bright areas, and if I am sort of looking for them my moving my eye left and right.

The question is, is this a deal breaker or is it something that if not bad and it dosn't really bother you just let it go.

Or, is this that start of an issue that may get worse with time/age?

I see the rainbows occassionally. I've had the TV for about 2 months now, and even when I am mentally aware of them, it doesn't really bother me. But this is something that everyone has to decide for him/herself. The image I get is superior to anything I've seen on any display, and the features this TV has speaks for itself.

Originally posted by dmako
Question for the Mitsubishi folks.

Just received a 52725 and have it under the standard 30 day eval.

Now I can see rainbows sometimes. Dark scenes with bright areas, and if I am sort of looking for them my moving my eye left and right.

The question is, is this a deal breaker or is it something that if not bad and it dosn't really bother you just let it go.

Or, is this that start of an issue that may get worse with time/age?

Try doing a search on this thread for rainbows...you'll get around 30 hits. There are differing opinions, probably due to the differing degrees that people are bothered by them....personally, I see them, but they don't detract much. But that's just me...

-Randy

Originally posted by RVJR
4. Constant fan noise is annoying.
Sigh, this is getting old. :(

In auditioning the Mit 52725, we first decide that the protective front screen is too reflective, and that this is a deal breaker. After looking at a lot of other TVs, we come to the conclusion that nearly all of the best looking TVs picture-wise (Mits DLPs, Hitachi vs810 and vx915 LCDs, Sony XBR LCDs, misc. CRT RPTVs) have a smooth front screen that reflects a bit too much. So, we decide that we should be able to work around this and put the 52725 at the top of our list.

Next comes the rainbows, so this becomes the deal breaker. I don't see them during a 2 hour audition on our 2nd audition, but on a solo 3rd audition, I see rainbows 3 times within 1 minute. If this were to occur for every show and movie I watched on the 52725, I would hate it. But, some people here insist I am being too picky, so I continue with a few more auditions. I see one more rainbow, but this time I determine I could live with it, so back goes the 52725 to the top of our list.

Today we venture over to our local Mits dealer to see if they are having an After Thanksgiving sale they hinted about that week. There isn't a sale, so I'm less inclined to want the TV today. So, on a lark, I decide to investigate the fan noise issue. In one corner I find the 52725 and the 62525. I turn off both, wait a couple of minutes, and listen from 5 feet away. I hear the fans. We next walk into a demo room that has a 52525 in it that is already turned off. I can clearly hear the fan noise in the entire room!

While most people seem to claim that the fan noise can be masked by the playback volume, what about those times when the TV is off and you want to listen to music? I'm sorry, but there isn't a TV on this planet that is going to make us live through excessive "idle" fan noise during our music.

Back to the drawing board for a new TV. :mad:

Michael

The fans that cool the lamps on the mits dlp's (and most any DLP) will run while the TV is on and for 5 or 10 minutes after the tv is shutdown. This prolongs the lamp life (which is why if you unplug the TV right after you power it down you will drastically cut down on the life of your lamp). In addition there is a small fan that cools the Digital Cable Card Tuner board (it's always running as the cable company sends info to the tv at various times). In my experience this small fan is inaudible unless you get right up to the set.

In addition the first shipment of the 525 series had a problem with the fan assemblies... I believe the fans were mounted backwards and it made them louder than they should have been.

Good luck with that list. I've been going back and forth between a Mits 52725, Panasonic 42 ED plasma and 55" Sony LCD RP... I've finally settled on the Mits.

btw... I posted in the mits thread that mits has released the $50 trim kits so you can remove the screen and still have a finished look to the TV.

Originally posted by BigAl
In addition there is a small fan that cools the Digital Cable Card Tuner board (it's always running as the cable company sends info to the tv at various times).
BigAl: Are you telling me the fan that runs all the time is only to cool the cable card tuner board? Well, I am not using a cable card. Does that mean I can disconnect the fan?

I know, loaded question, sure to receive multiple disclaimers in any answers, but lets try to keep this theoretical. If a cable card is not being used, then the cable card tuner board is inactive and should not require any cooling. Right?

Hey all,

Just got my 725 two days ago, besides the tilt, everything is really, really awesome!

I do have one question....is there a way to have the TV start up on "XXXX Device" everytime....regardless of what is was on when it was shut off?

I have a Home Theater Master Remote and I am trying to get my Macro's down....I would like to have it always start turn on and be on "XXXX Device" so it is simple for my wife....and, most importantly, I can get my marco's of "change to DVD, or VCR, or DVR" easlily by pressing the "Device Select" key XXXX times..........

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!

Originally posted by rpr
BigAl: Are you telling me the fan that runs all the time is only to cool the cable card tuner board? Well, I am not using a cable card. Does that mean I can disconnect the fan?

I know, loaded question, sure to receive multiple disclaimers in any answers, but lets try to keep this theoretical. If a cable card is not being used, then the cable card tuner board is inactive and should not require any cooling. Right?
Very good questions, ones I would also like to know the answers to. You would think that the Mits' engineers would have had the foresight to design this fan to not run when the cable card tuner is not being used. Maybe I assume too much! :o

BTW, in my audition I mentioned above, the Mits 52525 was not powered on at all, but one or more fans were running. It was much louder next to the (looking from the front) bottom right vents in the rear than the bottom left vents.

Originally posted by BigAl
Good luck with that list. I've been going back and forth between a Mits 52725, Panasonic 42 ED plasma and 55" Sony LCD RP... I've finally settled on the Mits.
Similar list to ours, which is down to the Mits 52725, Sony 55xs955, and the Panasonic PT-50PHD7UY plasma. We are leaning slightly toward the Sony because the Mits exhibits the screen glare, "idle" fan noise, and I've seen rainbows on it. OTOH, we don't get the WOW factor on the Sony like we do the Mits.

Originally posted by BigAl
btw... I posted in the mits thread that mits has released the $50 trim kits so you can remove the screen and still have a finished look to the TV.
I saw the posting that mentions the trim kit. I would be curious whether the removal of the screen changes the video "look" of the Mits DLPs. I think that the screen is more help than a hindrance except in extremely bright rooms. At least it is an option for those borderline rooms.

Michael

Originally posted by BigAl
In addition there is a small fan that cools the Digital Cable Card Tuner board (it's always running as the cable company sends info to the tv at various times). In my experience this small fan is inaudible unless you get right up to the set.


I do not use a cable card, and my 2ndary fan is on all of the time. The back plate, where the connectors all plug in stays very warm. One theory is that since the TV has the ability, via Net Command, to turn on your VCR and tell it to record a scheduled programs means the TV is required to think. Thinking means power means heat, which requires a fan if you're thinking a lot.

:)

My lamp fan sounds like I keep leaving the bathroom exhaust fan on. Only a problem when watching in the morning at low volume.

I would gladly sacrifice "Color Temp" as well as brightness if the fan would slow down some and not get on my last damn nerve. ;)

The secondary fan is on all the time whether or not you are using the cablecard. I doubt that you could just disconnect it... if it were my TV I sure wouldn't. I didn't design these TV's so I don't know what is permissable.

Are you saying that you guys own these TV's and the secondary fan is too loud or are you just trying to determine if the fan will be too loud once you get the TV home. I ask because a buddy I work with bought this TV and I asked him about the fan... he has his TV setup in a smallish room with hardwood floors and in a corner. He did hear the lamp when he went right up to the TV and listened for it but he said he would never have even known about it if I hadn't asked him.

I prefer the picture with the screen on, to me it seems to enhance the base black level. But if you want the brightest picture possible removing the screen does make it a bit brighter.

scottmd1us, I believe there are discrete commands to send the TV directly to an input. Do a search on this or the Mits dlp thread for discrete.

My secondary fan is too loud. I can hear it when I just walk through the living room, without trying. The only consolation is that it is not at a "pitch" that is overly obnoxious (like some of the high rpm fans in computer cases).

Hey, can anyone tell me if there is any quality or signal-path differences between the HD15 "PC-INPUT" and 5xRCA "INPUT-DTV" ?

Thanks!

-John

Originally posted by dmako
Question for the Mitsubishi folks.

Just received a 52725 and have it under the standard 30 day eval.

Now I can see rainbows sometimes. Dark scenes with bright areas, and if I am sort of looking for them my moving my eye left and right.

The question is, is this a deal breaker or is it something that if not bad and it dosn't really bother you just let it go.

Or, is this that start of an issue that may get worse with time/age?

I never saw rainbows while in the store. However, the day I got my 725 I was very put off by them... then I got hd cable, was amazed and never looked again questioned my tv choice.

In fact, I rarely see them anymore. So for me, rainbows weren't a "deal breaker." For you, well only you can decide.

Craig

I had a couple black blotches on the lower third of the screen, when the tech came out (without any lens cleaner) I grabbed my camera lens brush with the bulb blower and blew the offending dirt (actually looked like two small shards of white plastic) off of the mirror.

He couldn't fix the dark streak at the top of the screen, we believe it was a hair in the light engine. After he left I blew some canned in one of the vents, didn't seem to fix it, but I did notice that it was gone a few days later, so it must have worked itself lose.

I don't notice any fan noise when the unit has been off for a while. I also don't notice it when the TV is on and my amp is supplying audio volume. I notice it when I initially power off, I think the fan kicks up a notch to help to cool the lamp more quickly. It is a minor annoyance.

The slow response to changing channels on the internal tuner is also an annoyance.

I haven't seen the bright spot, but my older Toshiba 40H80 has one when you view it at a certain angle, which I attribute to an internal reflection of the CRT.

If the rainbow is a horizontal streak across the screen, then I believe I have seen it, maybe once or twice while watching about 4 hours of DVDs (could have been a flaw in the DVD). If not a DVD flaw, hopefully it is just a software bug that will be fixed with a future firmware update.

The PC input seems to be overscanned at 720P, but the format button can be used to change to reduce1 or reduce2 to make it fit (at some loss of quality due to re-scaling). I was hoping that DLPs wouldn't be overscanned. I also do notice a very slight tilt that is only noticible using the PC input.

My biggest annoyance is the fact that you can't watch another device while recording over firewire. This negates most of the advantage of having a way to record HD over firewire (I also bought the Mits DVHS). There are a few OTA stations currently not offered by Adelphia, that I wanted to record without requiring my PC to be running with its MyHD tuner.

While irrelevant to the TV discussion, my older Denon 5600 DTS would get a lot of popping noises from my SA 8000HD and my Sony TIVO, when I replaced it with a newer and cheaper Sony 935? the pops went away. I would have to pause the TIVO and restart it to get the popping noises to stop, or change channels on the SA 8000HD. My thought is that the Denon couldn't handle a glitch in the bitstream and would get out-of-sync (it was one of the first DTS receivers) The Denon also couldn't respond well to changes from DD2.0 to DD5.1, it would click and lose audio for at lease one second, enough to lose the beginning of commentary when switching from a commercial back to the Pat's game. The folks at Tweeter suggested ensuring that the Denon gets only PCM data instead of bitstream data, I haven't tried that (not sure if it is even an option).

Given that I want the PC input, and decent black levels, I'll stick with the Mits and its quirks. I have the option of returning/exchanging it before 30 days are up, but I figure that it is the best compromise given the current state of the technology. My first choice would have been the Toshiba DLP, but it doesn't have a PC input, and it seems from another thread that it has overscan issues if a DVI=>HDMI cable is used to connect a PC, for which Mits at least has the scale reduction modes.

In the future I expect that LCDs will get better black levels, plasma burn-in will be reduced, and possibly some new technology will come along to obsolete the current crop of TVs & monitors, until then I'll stick with the Mits DLP, barring any major issues in the next two weeks.

Setting the colors
Hi,
I have been lurking for a while and in doing so I have learned a lot about the WD-52725, which I have owned for about a month. The family and I are really enjoying this TV.

The Question that I have is about setting the colors correctly. I have the Avia disk and I figured out how to adjust the color, tint, contrast and brightness without any problems. I was would like to get some help on how to set the separate colors with Avia. I have seen the "perfect colors" that have been posted up on this list and I was wondering how those numbers were produced?

Thanks for helping,


Colin271

Originally posted by HDorBust
The PC input seems to be overscanned at 720P, but the format button can be used to change to reduce1 or reduce2 to make it fit (at some loss of quality due to re-scaling). I was hoping that DLPs wouldn't be overscanned. I also do notice a very slight tilt that is only noticible using the PC input.

If you plan on viewing your PC on the Mits regularly, I cannot recommend more highly the relatively simple solution to the overscan found at the following link. Reduce1 and Reduce2 format settings produce inferior PQ of the PC. Using Powerstrip and the settings provided at the following link, you'll have no overscan and a crystal clear desktop using the Standard format setting.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4453035#post4453035

Try, TV menu, setup, uncheck Auto, pick PerfectColor.

Each color can be adjusted and has a number.

Please let me (us) know what settings you come up with. We just got our 52725 three days ago.




Originally posted by Colin271
Setting the colors
Hi,
I have been lurking for a while and in doing so I have learned a lot about the WD-52725, which I have owned for about a month. The family and I are really enjoying this TV.

The Question that I have is about setting the colors correctly. I have the Avia disk and I figured out how to adjust the color, tint, contrast and brightness without any problems. I was would like to get some help on how to set the separate colors with Avia. I have seen the "perfect colors" that have been posted up on this list and I was wondering how those numbers were produced?

Thanks for helping,


Colin271

On my old Mitsubishi CRT projection set,there were discrete codes available for the inputs....

I read it at AVS forum, in fact....

If you entered a certain combination of keystrokes on the remote, it then functioned to put out discrete codes, which I learned to another remote, and was able to use.......

Enter the code again, and the remote returned to normal...


Is there anything like this for the new sets ?

It would come in very handy, as there are so many inputs to scroll
through...


Thanks.

Shelly

Originally posted by delar
If you plan on viewing your PC on the Mits regularly, I cannot recommend more highly the relatively simple solution to the overscan found at the following link. Reduce1 and Reduce2 format settings produce inferior PQ of the PC. Using Powerstrip and the settings provided at the following link, you'll have no overscan and a crystal clear desktop using the Standard format setting.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4453035#post4453035

Thanks, I'll give it a shot.

JP...

You _don't_ need a cable box with a Mits. I have Comcast as well and so far I'm enjoying HDTV over my straight cable to ANT 1 connection on the Mits 62725. On top of that, the HD channels like CBS, NBC are broadcast in digital tv format when the format is not HD 16:9, so the SD picture quality
is razor sharp.

I had Comcast come out and run a new cable from the street underground box to the house and tidy up my bad connections and my SD PQ improved to the point where it is very, very good... almost looking like CRT quality at least.

One element I added before Comcast came out was a better 1-4 digital 2.3 GHz splitter. The tech measured my signal and said it was excellent and that was reflected in better PQ in all TV sets in the house which are fed off of that splitter. I'm thinking of adding a bigger splitter so I have options but I don't know where to look. Anyone have a clue online if they make a 1-6 digital splitter?

Originally posted by jpaulr
Do I need a cable box (I'm on comcast) to view HDTV or can the 62725 handle it w/out the box.

I hate those dig. cable boxes.

I'm not looking forward to another STB, but I might go with the cablecard down the road... then again, I might re-up with DTV since I still have my dish setup on the roof. Have to balance the cost of a minimal DTV package vs digital cable.

BTW, isn't this set really incredible?

Iron Horse

My apologies if this has been discussed about as I can't seem to find anything exactly like it in the forums.

In the last week and a half, I have had two lockups on my 62725 where the display exhibits the following:

1. Vertical lines of different colors and widths on most channels from the tuner and other inputs. Not the same from channel to channel.

2. One channel is usually blurry with horizontal squiggly lines instead of vertical.

3. One channel (the same one both times) has a locked picture (like you pressed pause) with one artifact jumping back and forth (wiggling arm or leaf blower in my case).

4. All menu functions can be displayed normally (like device menu, etc.).

A resest is required to return things to normal. Since I have about another week to return the TV to UE, I am wondering if I should do that or wait for the next software release.

Has anyone else seen this? Attached is a picture of one input with the vertical lines. Is there a way to attach avi's as I have one of the stuck channel which is really interesting.

Thanks,
Derik

Originally posted by DBoucher
1. Vertical lines of different colors and widths on most channels from the tuner and other inputs. Not the same from channel to channel.


Some call it "candy stripes". ;) I don't have the problem, so I don't know the answer. You can follow the other thread, where it was mentioned once or twice:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4609313#post4609313

Originally posted by jackmd
It is my experience that if they send out digital unscrambled signals you will decode them without the CC. If they send out HDTV unscrambled you will also get those stations.

That will only be true if the digital cable channels can be reached by the TV's digital tuner. Some cable systems have a portion of their digital channels within the frequency range handled by the TV's digital tuner but often many of the digital channels are above the tuner's range. The only way you can watch them with a box/cable card would be to shift the frequency range. Years ago before TV's had cable tuners, many people made their own to get at the midband channels.

In the case of Comcast (at least in our neck of the woods) the HD content is up in the 80's. You select say... 84 on the Mits remote and usually it'll go to 84-1, which is PBS HD. Then you key the remote upwards to 84-2, 84-3, 84-5, and so on. You can also try 82 as a starting point. As Rig41 notes, the regular "digital" signals are encrypted, so you can't get say... digital ESPN (not HD ESPN)... you just get SD ESPN unless you're a digital package subscriber.

I think the FCC Law is that only locals _must_ be broadcast in digital quality and HD boradcasting is up to the local affiliate. In our case, the local ABC affiliate has plans to eventually offer digital broadcasts but has said that they will _NOT_ broadcast in HD because of costs involved. This has got a lot of local people PO'd.

Iron Horse

Discrete Codes: Someone posted a list before that didn't tell you how to get your remote back to normal, also, this list has been updated.

Set the Slide Switch at the top of the Mitsubishi Remote to TV.
Press and hold the POWER button, and while holding the power button enter 090.

Now the remote functions like this:

Power = Power On Only
Stop = Power Off Only
Pause = AV Reset (I did not verify this)

Pressing DEVICE followed by:
PIP/POP = ANT-DTV
PIP DEVICE = INP-DTV
PIP Device = Input DTV
1 = Input 1
2 = Input 2
3 = Input 3 - Front of TV inputs
4 = Input 4 - No input 4 on this TV
5 = Component 1
6 = Component 2
SQV = Monolink DVI
QV = Input VGA
PIP CH Up = Antenna A
PIP CH Down = Antenna B

Learn the desired commands to your MX-500.
When done, press and hold POWER button and enter code 000 (935 with NetCommand models) on your Mits remote to return to its normal functioning mode.

For older model Mits, use the "Input" key instead of "Device".

Good morning all.Long time lurker,first time poster here.I thank every1 on the boards for helping me make my decision which wound up to be the mits 62725.It was an almost tie with the sammy 61,but the sammy's picture is just too soft.Anyhow,here are observations and some settings for you all to try.I have no tilt,no green halo,so maybe i got a good 1?A quick setup last nite yielded me these settings.Please try them and lets compare.This was off a dvd connected on component.

Bright 25-27 depends on movie
Tint 28
Contrast 52
Color 42
Sharp 45
Temp Medium
V Noise Reduction
Edge On

Magenta 29
Red 27
Yellow 33
Green 29
Cyan 28
Blue 35

This so far gives good blacks without being washed out.The reds bleed so i turned it down some,and the yellow needed to go up to stop things from turning orange.I will try and tweak it some more tonight when i have time.Please try these settings and let me know what you think.

I just placed an order for the 725. can't wait! question regarding the stand for the tv: I heard that the mitsubishi stand for these dlps lack the depth (about 16") to handle a regular component. I wanted to get a sanus stand that matches my component rack. While the width matches up nicely, the sanus stand is about 6" taller than the mitsubishi stand. Does anyone think that 6" will make an overall difference?

Also, where are people putting their center channel? I do not want to put holes in the wall for a shelf and it doesn't look like the top of the tv is thick enough to accommdate a speaker. Thanks!

These need to be changed to off as they add articacts

V Noise Reduction
Edge On

You also need to get Digital Video Essentials as you can improve your settings.

I'm a recent owner of the 62725 and coupldn't be happier. No problems at all - I'm thrilled.

I am still searching for a good stand and the center channel is an issue for me as well.

One interesting thing I noticied at the store was that there are two screw holes on the back of the TV on the slanted piece of plastic. At first I thought the store drilled these for some reason but when i received my set i noticed that there are some predrilled holes that can be punched out quite easily.

Does anyone know what these are for? I was thinking that they might be anchor points to be used for an add-on CC shelf.

Any idea if these holes would affect performance?

Maybe someone at Mitsubiushi customer service would have the answers.

Bruce

Originally posted by 7thstranger
I just placed an order for the 725. can't wait! question regarding the stand for the tv: I heard that the mitsubishi stand for these dlps lack the depth (about 16") to handle a regular component. I wanted to get a sanus stand that matches my component rack. While the width matches up nicely, the sanus stand is about 6" taller than the mitsubishi stand. Does anyone think that 6" will make an overall difference?

Also, where are people putting their center channel? I do not want to put holes in the wall for a shelf and it doesn't look like the top of the tv is thick enough to accommdate a speaker. Thanks!

Congratulations on your new TV!

I have the Mitsu stand, and while it's deep enough for my DVD/VCR combo, my Hughes DirecTV box sticks out an inch or two. It's not a big deal to me though.

I don't know what the Sanus stand looks like, but I don't see 6" making a big difference in viewing quality.

For the center channel, the TV is definitely not deep enough by itself. When I add one, I'm planning on fabricating something big enough to hold it, with a small lip over the top edge of the TV to keep it in place. I've seen pictures of ones other people have done, and it shouldn't be too big a deal.

Can Someone help mu out understanding the POP on my 62725?

I understand the basics of turning it on, and changing the PIP/POP modes. However, one thing confuses me that I need some help with.

When I am in 3 POP or 9 POP modes, i see my main window fine, but for the small POP windows, I only see one (the same) source in all of the windows. What is stranger, is that in the POP windows, it just scrolls through channels, one frame at a time, or if I set the source to my DVD player, it just scrolls through freeze frames in each window, never being able to actually watch anything easily.

Reading my manual, on page 76, it appears that Automatic POP switching is On. How do I turn this off?

Also, in 3 POP (and also applying to 9 POP), should I be able to watch 4 separate things at one time (1 in the main, and 1 each in the POP windows)?

Here is how my TV is configured right now.

Cable Box - Component 1
Cable Wire Wall - ANT 1
Cable Wire Wall - ANT 2
VCR - Input 1
DVD - Input 2 (I know this is not great, but I have not bought a better DVD player yet)
No Cable Card installed
No VGA hookup currently.

My end goal would be to have in the main window my HD Cable Box signal from Component 1, and in the 3 POP have ANT1, ANT2, & ANT3, which would allow me to have 3 separate sports feeds in the POP windows, and watch some other show in the main windows. Is this possible?

The PIP multiple pictures are only for cable NTSC channels, like 2, 3, 4 etc from ANT 1/2.

Originally posted by Jim Christian
The PIP multiple pictures are only for cable NTSC channels, like 2, 3, 4 etc from ANT 1/2.

Jim, I am confused by your answer. Can you (or someone else) give me some more detail?

If the 3 POP windows are for only NTSC channels from ANT1/2, why do you have 3 windows when you only have 2 ANT connections?

I will give some more details of what I want to do.

Main Picture - Display Component 1 signal from my HD Cable Box displaying Channel 5

POP 1 - Display ANT1 signal, which is connected directly to the cable outlet in the wall and show Channel 6

POP 2 - Display ANT2 signal, which is connected directly to the cable outlet in the wall and show Channel 7

POP 3 - Display INPUT1 signal, which is an output from my VCR using the VCR's internal tuner to tune to Channel 8.

Can this be done? If not, can you tell me what parts can or cannot be done, or what a situation might be to use 3 POP mode.

ALSO, can someone tell me how to TURN OFF the AUTOMATIC POP SWITCHING?

Originally posted by yevkazim


[snip]

Can this be done? If not, can you tell me what parts can or cannot be done, or what a situation might be to use 3 POP mode.

ALSO, can someone tell me how to TURN OFF the AUTOMATIC POP SWITCHING?

No, this can not be done. PIP/POP will only work with 2 devices. The 3/9 POP windows will display the same device and (if applicable) change the channel continuously. I believe you can turn off the POP switching by pressing pause and then I think you can use the adjust button to select the screen you want to see (I'm not positive about this).

IMO the 3/9 POP feature is of little use unless you use one of the ANT inputs that has "quick" channel changing. When I try it with a sattelite device the channel change is too slow before it moves to the next window so I never get an actual channel displayed.

If you are correct about only 2 devices working at the same time, then 3/9 POP modes are the most worthless things that I have ever heard of.

Originally posted by yevkazim
If you are correct about only 2 devices working at the same time, then 3/9 POP modes are the most worthless things that I have ever heard of.

I believe they are intended to let you get a glimpse of what is available on other channels...think of it as being able to channel surf without changing off your current channel. You can only watch two devices at the same time, as Craig mentioned. Some will argue that even that is worthless, although I have enjoyed using it in some instances.

-Randy

This thread is getting large and unwieldy (methinks), so I'd like to make a suggestion for at least one aspect of it, and I'm sure there are others.

How about a thread _dedicated_ to the Mits Remote and the User-Options available? This thread should be started by someone with a good basic knowledge of the remote, the access codes, factory resets, defaults, and the variables available to a Mits X2X25. I would also include any information about using the front panel reset.

Members could chime in there with favorite settings, results with a DVD like AVIA, or whatever.

The size of this thread is basically an indicator of the popularity of the Mits DLP sets. I consider myself one of the lucky ones that has a smooth-running set out of the box, although I don't doubt that there are lenty more like me without tilt, rainbows, or other stuff. But the remote has loads of special menus and before I even start to play with them, I want to know where I can turn to get help.

Iron Horse

Originally posted by IronHorse
One element I added before Comcast came out was a better 1-4 digital 2.3 GHz splitter. The tech measured my signal and said it was excellent and that was reflected in better PQ in all TV sets in the house which are fed off of that splitter. I'm thinking of adding a bigger splitter so I have options but I don't know where to look. Anyone have a clue online if they make a 1-6 digital splitter?

Iron Horse

heya bud,

I found some stuff for you to check out.

http://www.infinity-cable.com/icp_home_wiring_preloaded_box.htm

http://www.ba-electronics.com/calrad.htm 6-way 1GHz

Originally posted by HDorBust
My biggest annoyance is the fact that you can't watch another device while recording over firewire. This negates most of the advantage of having a way to record HD over firewire (I also bought the Mits DVHS). There are a few OTA stations currently not offered by Adelphia, that I wanted to record without requiring my PC to be running with its MyHD tuner.

What are you using for OTA reception? I am toying with getting an antenna for my WD-52725. What are you getting for OTA channels? Do you pick up the Boston channels? I'm mostly interested in WMUR, WENH, WSBK, and WLVI's DT stations.

Thanks,

Pete

Originally posted by petelang
What are you using for OTA reception? I am toying with getting an antenna for my WD-52725. What are you getting for OTA channels? Do you pick up the Boston channels? I'm mostly interested in WMUR, WENH, WSBK, and WLVI's DT stations.

Thanks,

Pete

All you need is a cheap $20 terk ota antenna to plug into the back of youre tv...

On the PIP/POP...

The TV has a single digital tuner so you can only tune to a single digital channel during pip/pop usage (OTA HD, cable HD or cable digital... i.e. SD channels below 100). The digital channel from the internal tuner can only be in the main pop window but you can put an HD signal from your an external STB in the pip/pop window... I haven't tried this with a HDMI connection but I know it works with a component video connection.

The 3/9 modes are for scanning analog channels to see what's on as previously mentioned.

Well, I just got my 52725 all hooked up and HDTV'ed.



All I can say is wow ! ! !



I do see where I will have to modify room lighting a bit, but that's no big deal.




If you have depth limitations on where your TV goes, get this set. YOu won't be sorry.

Got the its 52725 delivered Saturday. I'm loving it. Thought I'd share my powerstrip timings. They differ from those posted earlier, but give me a perfect 16:9 image with zero overscan. I'm running an ATI 9600Pro. These settings are using the VGA input. I've experimented with the component dongle and straight DVI to HDMI but seem to get the best picture using the VGA.

PowerStrip timing parameters:
1184x666=1184,199,136,129,666,27,3,50,73764,272

Generic timing details for 1184x666:
HFP=199 HSW=136 HBP=129 kHz=45 VFP=27 VSW=3 VBP=50 Hz=60

Linux modeline parameters:
"1184x666" 73.764 1184 1383 1519 1648 666 693 696 746 +hsync +vsync

Is anyone using this set with Firebus? I have a few questions for you if you are.

-Laudon

After looking for months and waiting for the Samsung 5674, I bought a Mitsubishi 52725. I was worried about the fan noise and the stray light issue. Let me tell you, it's a great DLP Projection TV. I would recommend ti to anyone. The glare was not an issue with me. It was less than an issue than the Sony XBR it replaced.

As for the fan noise, it's not an issue.

I had compared both the Samsung 5674 and the Mitsubishi 52725. The Mit's color, etc., was so much better.

Originally posted by petelang
What are you using for OTA reception? I am toying with getting an antenna for my WD-52725. What are you getting for OTA channels? Do you pick up the Boston channels? I'm mostly interested in WMUR, WENH, WSBK, and WLVI's DT stations.

Thanks,

Pete

Channel Master 4228 8-bay antenna with CM rotor and Wineguard UHF-only pre-amp.

I get ALL Boston channels, but I am on a hill, so that helps, even though there is at least one other hill between me and Boston (2-1, 2-2, 4-1, 5-1, 5-2, 7-1, 7-2, 25-1, 38-1, 44-1, 44-2, 44-3, 44-4, 56-1, 68-1, 68-2, 68-3, 68-4, at least one Spanish channel) all with one rotor position. If I rotate the antenna I can get 9-1, 11-1, 50-1 and some others which I haven't cataloged. Lately I was able to receive 56-1 even at my old apartment which was only part way up on a much smaller hill about 10 miles south of my current location, and that was with the 4228 in the attic and a CM UHF-only pre-amp, but with leaves off the trees.

Note that you can get WMUR-DT & WENH-DT from Adelphia if you so choose.

You can get more information about Adelphia in NH at the following link:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=356624&perpage=20&pagenumber=1

For eldub 1999

I'm using a Radeon X800SE to VGA on a mits 62525. I've set up PS with your settings and several others I've seen on these AVS forums. No matter what I do, for some reason the Mits defaults to SVGA 800X600 when I try to apply the settings. If I apply regular 1280X720 I get a beautiful picture with 1:1 mapping and overscan. If I use anything less than 1280X720 it drops to 800X600 and cannot be change in the ATI display settings. Any ideas????

I've had my 52725 for a couple of weeks now, and absolutely love it. I do have one quick (and probably dumb) question...is there any way to watch non-HD channels that will utilize the entire screen rather than the 4:3 ratio without changing the setting on my HD receiver?

Originally posted by DallasAg
I've had my 52725 for a couple of weeks now, and absolutely love it. I do have one quick (and probably dumb) question...is there any way to watch non-HD channels that will utilize the entire screen rather than the 4:3 ratio without changing the setting on my HD receiver?

Howdy!! You can try one of the "expand" formats (cycle through the format button).

Or, for example, my HD sat. recvr displays SD channels in 16:9, but there's an option to tell it you have a 16:9 TV, so I never see 4:3. Does that make sense? Does your HD receiver have a similar option?

Originally posted by boristhedog
Or, for example, my HD sat. recvr displays SD channels in 16:9, but there's an option to tell it you have a 16:9 TV, so I never see 4:3. Does that make sense? Does your HD receiver have a similar option?

I'm pretty sure my HD receiver has that option (I have the Dish 811), because I watched the installer select it when he came out to the house. However, I still see SD channels in 4:3, and it is kind of annoying.

I've tried some of the expand modes, but I don't really like how it stretches the image. Maybe I need to play with the HD receiver settings a little more.

Thanks for the help!

DallasAg...why don't you like the 4x3 SD image? If you're concerned about burn-in, you don't have to worry. DLPs are the only HDTVs that can not get burn-in. I've had HDTVs for 5 years now and always watch it like this. The bars have never bothered me.

I appologize if this has been covered previously but I think my eyes are going to fall out if I continue through the entire 83 pages.

I'm having issues receiving Philly's OTA feeds using an antenna. I had the unit memorize my "air" channels and as it reached the digital channels it was adding the channels to the list. It even reassigns some channels to match their analog channel assignments. When I try to tune into the DTV channels I get the channel tags (including current show information) but no audio or video. After a few seconds the following appears on the bottom of the screen: "Channel does not exist or is off the air."

Has anyone had or heard of similar issues?

I'm not familiar with the Dish reciever but if your reciever doesn't have a nonlinear stretch mode you will have to switch the output of the box to 480i. Once you do this you'll be able to use the "Strectch" and "Strecth Plus" nonlinear stretch modes on the mits. You can't use these modes when you are sending the TV an HD signal.

Hi,

A question I haven't seen addressed in this thread: I can't get the pause button to freeze the screen. Anybody else have this problem? If so, do you know how to remedy it?

Thanks

I am hoping you guys can help me out. I remember reading about this is either this thread or the master Mits thread but can not remember the outcome.

Does everyones TV exhibit the Horizontal Line in the center of the screen when watching HD. You can see it when the camera pans. Especially a vertical pan. I noticed it a long time ago but it ws not a big deal. I was just watching a really cool show about some islands on Discover HD and it was Way distracting. They had alot of closeups and slow pans. Its more like the top and bottom halfs refresh at different rates or something/

I am at about 32 days with the set but I am sure I could convice them to replace if it is a set issue not an issue with all sets. I also have a tilt too but was going to get a Mitsu rep out to fix that..

Thanks for the wonderful support from this forum. I really appreciate the help even if my eyes don't.

Originally posted by TenthScale

Does everyones TV exhibit the Horizontal Line in the center of the screen when watching HD. You can see it when the camera pans. Especially a vertical pan. I noticed it a long time ago but it ws not a big deal. I was just watching a really cool show about some islands on Discover HD and it was Way distracting. They had alot of closeups and slow pans. Its more like the top and bottom halfs refresh at different rates or something/


Hmmm...I don't remember reading about this and I haven't seen it on my 52725. How are your receiving Discover HD (STB, CC)? Does it happen for OTA HD as well?

Curious...

Originally posted by woodyww
For eldub 1999

I'm using a Radeon X800SE to VGA on a mits 62525. I've set up PS with your settings and several others I've seen on these AVS forums. No matter what I do, for some reason the Mits defaults to SVGA 800X600 when I try to apply the settings. If I apply regular 1280X720 I get a beautiful picture with 1:1 mapping and overscan. If I use anything less than 1280X720 it drops to 800X600 and cannot be change in the ATI display settings. Any ideas???? Is the TV dropping down to 800x600 or is the CARD changing back??

I went back to a suburban Sears store again and tried to compare this and the JVC which are still side by side. The JVC still has a problem and Sears is having a problem with JVC claiming they AREN'T a authorized service center. Anyway we (the salesman) and I got talking and he claims after going to one of those seminars that Mits is changing the screen on the 525 to a non glare version. I questioned if he was just talking about the 725 and he said no, it was this model. Then I asked him if it was all Mits 525's or just ones for Sears and he replied all of them, it wasn't just a Sears thing.

Anyone else hear anything about this? Doesn't make sense to me, I think he got his wires crossed.

Originally posted by DCinDC
Hmmm...I don't remember reading about this and I haven't seen it on my 52725. How are your receiving Discover HD (STB, CC)? Does it happen for OTA HD as well?

Curious...


I am getting my HD from the RCA Dtv box. I am waiting on getting a better OTA HD antenna... Maybe I will get something from Fry's to try out and see if it affects the OTA as well.

I just remember reading about the issue and could not find it. Even if people are not seeing an issue that would be great to know.. Could be the HD box.. Will check that thread..

Originally posted by DCinDC
Hmmm...I don't remember reading about this and I haven't seen it on my 52725. How are your receiving Discover HD (STB, CC)? Does it happen for OTA HD as well?

Curious...


Thanks!! I found it.. I am glad to see its not the TV it an issue with the RCA DTC-210 HD box

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4732149#post4732149

Does the Mits DLP's have the 6 segment or the 7 segment color wheel? I'm read through the post's and couldn't find it. Thank's for the info

7 segment wheel; 2500+ contrast ratio, which makes it the best dlp on the market right now... until we hit 1080p with the x3 chip.

Originally posted by PAULJK
Tom,

I did an upgrade from 02 to 03 firmware on my 52725 to fix some tuner problems and ended up with a freeze problem. This is my second set. I returned my first set (had 03 firmware) because it also had reset problems. I think it's an 03 firmware bug with the OTA Tuner. I'm hoping the 04 release fixes the resets.

My set has not locked up any more after the 2 times, post re-install of the 03 Rev. Got a call back from Mits yesterday. The rep said that the 04 Rev should be comming out very soon and he would send it to me (maybe next week).

I got my 52725 about a month ago, and have firmware version 4.02.

Will Mits automatically send me out a firmware revision or would I only get it if I requested it to fix a problem? Is there any additional functionality with the new firmware?

Since I got the set, I've only had about one time in the first week where it seemed to "hang" and take a minute to process what I was sending from the remote, then it "caught up". Since then it's been fine.

I also had one time after I'd had it a week where I tried to turn it on, and instead the "change lamp" light came out. Service tech was out that afternoon (gotta love my local dealer) and was able to get the set back on just by hitting reset. He also pulled the lamp out just to be sure it was OK, and it was fine.

Other than these minor adjustments, set has been perfect with no tilt, bright spot, or any other issues, so I don't really NEED to upgrade. I just hate to not have "the latest" if it might improve the set even more. (I know, if it ain't broke.....)

I have a tilt issue I need fixed. Since I do not have any of the other issues.. Resets/ Bright spots etc.. I think I would be better off getting the system repaired.

Do you guys suggest calling Mitsu or the service techs for my extend warr. to fix this?

Originally posted by TenthScale
I have a tilt issue I need fixed. Since I do not have any of the other issues.. Resets/ Bright spots etc.. I think I would be better off getting the system repaired.

Do you guys suggest calling Mitsu or the service techs for my extend warr. to fix this?

Yes, if tilt is your only problem, don't exchange it!!! That is easily fixed.

You might want to call Mits directly if your extended warr. deal is one that gives you a 50% refund if you don't use it. I think as long as you bought the TV from an authorized Mits dealer, you can call them directly for warranty work.

Originally posted by boristhedog
Yes, if tilt is your only problem, don't exchange it!!! That is easily fixed.

You might want to call Mits directly if your extended warr. deal is one that gives you a 50% refund if you don't use it. I think as long as you bought the TV from an authorized Mits dealer, you can call them directly for warranty work.


Bought it from the Magnolia Center inside a BB.. I was assuming it might be better to contact Mits directly as should be better trained on how to adress the issue. I will call them later. Thanks.

Since I will have a tech out anything else I should ask for.. I have two particles that need to be cleaned off from directly behind the screen.

Firmware maybe etc?????

The screen is easily removed, to expose the two internal mirrors, and easily cleaned. I would be curious to see some pics of what the foam around your LE looks like (or anybody elses for that matter), since mine seems to be "pushed in" around the top right corner. If you saw my pics, you know....

Does anybody else have some pics with the screen removed????

Originally posted by technik
The screen is easily removed, to expose the two internal mirrors, and easily cleaned. I would be curious to see some pics of what the foam around your LE looks like (or anybody elses for that matter), since mine seems to be "pushed in" around the top right corner. If you saw my pics, you know....

Does anybody else have some pics with the screen removed????

There was some pictures floating around with the entire front screen removed... Check the "blame game" thread maybe.

I will take a bunch of pics when the tech comes out.

I've been perusing the avsforum for a ridiculously long time now (about two years) researching Rear Projection TV's. I haven't had much to contribute, though, because I haven't purchased much during that time, with the exception of a new stereo receiver and a harmony remote. The reason I've held off from buying a TV is not because I am waiting for the perfect product, but rather because I am a Tivo addict. As a result, I held off until the HD Tivo was available, since I had a hard time justifying the purchase of an HDTV only to watch recorded SD content. We use our TV for 90% Tivo content and 10% DVD (I'm not a gamer). Once the HD Tivo shipped, I finally decided it was time to pull the trigger.

About three weeks ago, I decided to purchase the WD-62725 (and, of course, the HD Tivo) from Showcase Electronics (Tweeter) here in Phoenix, AZ. Coincidentally, my parents bought the same TV that day in South Dakota. Overall, I like this TV, but I would only recommend it for rooms with minimal external light and where sound does not carry into other rooms of the house. The picture quality is great. If I was placing this TV in a dimly lit room that is primarily used as a home theater, I would definitely keep this TV.

However, I would not recommend purchasing this TV for areas in which there are windows on the opposite wall of the room (due to glare) or if the room is in a fairly centralized location where sound can carry into adjacent rooms (due to noise).

In terms of glare, the supposed "anti-glare shield" still produces a significant amount. During the day, for example, if you have any exterior light coming from windows in your viewing area, you will see a reflection on the screen. In my particular case, the screen reflects the opposite wall from 16 feet away.

In terms of noise, I would have to say that this TV is pretty loud. There are two scenarios where I have personally found this TV annoying. First, if your house has a pretty open floor plan like mine, there is one fan in the TV that runs even when the TV is off. This produces enough noise that I can hear it in the room adjacent to my Family Room where the TV is situated. Second, there are four more fans that run when you are watching TV, so if you ever watch TV with the volume set at a low to moderate level because you don't want to disturb anyone else in the house, such as late at night, then you will hear a lot of fan noise emanating from the TV.

Due to the glare and the fan noise, this TV isn't really suited for my particular situation. That doesn't mean this isn't the right TV for others. If I had a dimly lit room that was somewhat isolated from the rest of the house so I didn't hear fan noise all the time, such as a room in the basement, I would definitely choose this TV over its competitors. If, on the other hand, you are in the market for a TV for an area such as mine, I would recommend considering other options that do not produce as much noise or glare.

've been perusing the avsforum for a ridiculously long time now (about two years) researching Rear Projection TV's. Now, I thought I was bad at just over a year procrastinating over when/what TV to get.........:rolleyes:

The well known issue of the 'glare screen', your comments were with the screen on or off? This isn't the only RPTV that has a highly reflective screen. CRT RPTV's had had them for many years and I'm suprised that all of a sudden it is a issue. I never liked them either (long before this set came out). My old CRT RPTV doesn't have one (they were just starting to appear then).
On the fan noise, do you have rugs on the floors? Are their curtains or drapes on the windows? How about the amount of furniture? All of that will absorb sound, but it almost sounds as your set might be noiser than others. Have yo8u considered a exchange or at least a service call first before you return it?

Originally posted by videobruce
The well known issue of the 'glare screen', your comments were with the screen on or off? This isn't the only RPTV that has a highly reflective screen. CRT RPTV's had had them for many years and I'm suprised that all of a sudden it is a issue.
I think the reflective screen on a RPTV has always been an issue. It is one of the main reasons why my wife and I never committed to a CRT RPTV, despite looking for a widescreen replacement for our 35" tube over two years ago.

Michael

Much like you I did a lot of research before buying the 725. I agree with your point on the glare, but I'll repeat what others have said here that if you remove the shield you'll have essentially the same screen as the Sammy's or LCD RPTVs have. Trim kit is now available for $50.

On the noise issue, I've posted before that this is at the very least a subjective matter. I don't dispute your experience, but I have to say with my TV that it's hard for me to understand how the fan noise is a problem. Perhaps it just means I'm hard of hearing (really), but for me and persumably the many people not positing about this issue or returning their sets it's not a problem.

I would however dispute the claim that there are a total of five fans running on this set. From the diagrams and descriptions I've seen and my own experience with the set there are only two fans. One small one runs constantly. You can hear it on the right (as you face it) side of the set if you put your head down next to it or strain to hear it when the TV is completely off (not cooling down). The other is on the left and runs when the TV is on or for a few (30ish) second after the TV is off to cool down the bulb. This one is noticeable, but it makes less noise than my computer or PS2 fan and even at very low volumes (when the TV volume is set below 10) I don't notice it unless I've just read something here and I'm listening for it. Like all sorts of white, ambient noise it just disappears when I'm not trying to hear it.

Please keep in mind that I'm not trying to change anyone's mind who doesn't like the sound of the fan, etc. I just want to point out that it's very subjective and could vary a lot on the setting for the TV (the room, cabinet, position, etc.) as bkaz pointed out. I live in the city too so perhaps I'm just numb to ambient noise.

My main point is that in the end after doing pretty much a couple of years of research and searching, that I'm still very happy with this set. I think it has the best PQ to my eyes (again subjective) of the sets I looked at and I'm very pleased with the range of features (inputs, controls, etc.).

So, my advice to anyone out there still thinking about getting this set is to buy it from a place with a good return policy and see what you think. I was worried about this fan noise, glare, tilt, bright spot, SD PQ, and other gremlins. I have none of those issues at this point and am thrilled with the set.

Originally posted by bkaz
I've been perusing the avsforum for a ridiculously long time now (about two years) researching Rear Projection TV's. I haven't had much to contribute, though, because I haven't purchased much during that time, with the exception of a new stereo receiver and a harmony remote. The reason I've held off from buying a TV is not because I am waiting for the perfect product, but rather because I am a Tivo addict. As a result, I held off until the HD Tivo was available, since I had a hard time justifying the purchase of an HDTV only to watch recorded SD content. We use our TV for 90% Tivo content and 10% DVD (I'm not a gamer). Once the HD Tivo shipped, I finally decided it was time to pull the trigger.

About three weeks ago, I decided to purchase the WD-62725 (and, of course, the HD Tivo) from Showcase Electronics (Tweeter) here in Phoenix, AZ. Coincidentally, my parents bought the same TV that day in South Dakota. Overall, I like this TV, but I would only recommend it for rooms with minimal external light and where sound does not carry into other rooms of the house. The picture quality is great. If I was placing this TV in a dimly lit room that is primarily used as a home theater, I would definitely keep this TV.

However, I would not recommend purchasing this TV for areas in which there are windows on the opposite wall of the room (due to glare) or if the room is in a fairly centralized location where sound can carry into adjacent rooms (due to noise).

In terms of glare, the supposed "anti-glare shield" still produces a significant amount. During the day, for example, if you have any exterior light coming from windows in your viewing area, you will see a reflection on the screen. In my particular case, the screen reflects the opposite wall from 16 feet away.

In terms of noise, I would have to say that this TV is pretty loud. There are two scenarios where I have personally found this TV annoying. First, if your house has a pretty open floor plan like mine, there is one fan in the TV that runs even when the TV is off. This produces enough noise that I can hear it in the room adjacent to my Family Room where the TV is situated. Second, there are four more fans that run when you are watching TV, so if you ever watch TV with the volume set at a low to moderate level because you don't want to disturb anyone else in the house, such as late at night, then you will hear a lot of fan noise emanating from the TV.

Due to the glare and the fan noise, this TV isn't really suited for my particular situation. That doesn't mean this isn't the right TV for others. If I had a dimly lit room that was somewhat isolated from the rest of the house so I didn't hear fan noise all the time, such as a room in the basement, I would definitely choose this TV over its competitors. If, on the other hand, you are in the market for a TV for an area such as mine, I would recommend considering other options that do not produce as much noise or glare.

Originally posted by bkaz
Due to the glare and the fan noise, this TV isn't really suited for my particular situation. That doesn't mean this isn't the right TV for others. If I had a dimly lit room that was somewhat isolated from the rest of the house so I didn't hear fan noise all the time, such as a room in the basement, I would definitely choose this TV over its competitors. If, on the other hand, you are in the market for a TV for an area such as mine, I would recommend considering other options that do not produce as much noise or glare.
Good summary, one that fits exactly with what we decided with regards to the Mits 52725. And as bad as its reflections can be, I think it was the "idle" fan noise that stopped us from making the purchase. Its too bad Mits didn't figure out a way to silence the fans much like Dell does on most of their PCs. Maybe if enough people complain about the fan noise they'll design better noise control in future models.

Michael

Michael, have you talked to your salesman and had him stop out and check out your set? If the always on fan is audible from another room it sounds like it's defective. You should not be able to hear that fan unless you are about a foot away from the back of the TV.

Originally posted by BigAl
Michael, have you talked to your salesman and had him stop out and check out your set? If the always on fan is audible from another room it sounds like it's defective. You should not be able to hear that fan unless you are about a foot away from the back of the TV.
I don't own a Mits (actually I own an 11 year-old 35" Mits tube). My opinions are based on what I have experienced in the dealer's stores. When I turn off a Mits DLP, wait a few minutes for the cooling down period and the fan(s) to switch to "low" mode, but I can still hear the fan(s) at least 5 feet away in a noisy store, that's too loud. When I walk into a demo room, with its doors open, and I can hear the "idle" fan(s) anywhere in the room, that's too loud.

Maybe your comments were meant for DCinDC?

Michael

Originally posted by BigAl
Michael, have you talked to your salesman and had him stop out and check out your set? If the always on fan is audible from another room it sounds like it's defective. You should not be able to hear that fan unless you are about a foot away from the back of the TV.

I'm not Michael, but I'll butt in anyway. I'll add to your advice and point out that this is entirely dependant on ambient noise levels. The 'always on' fan is audible at all times in my house, but is easily tuned out with the least amount of ambient noise. Once the tv is turned on, the other fan drowns it out :) I was surprised to notice the constant fan on the first night before bedtime. The tv sits along the wall that my MBR and LR share, and I could hear the fan as I dosed off to sleep. Of course the rest of the house was dead quiet. Every morning as I walk through the LR into the kitchen, I can hear it as well. I don't think I can hear it now that I've put two cabinets around the tv though. I'll check in the morning.

NEW TO THE FORUM, NEW TO THE THREAD. CAN ANYBODY TELL ME HOW A SONY DVP685 PROGRESSIVE SCAN DVD (NO UPSCALING) WILL LOOK ON A WD52725 VIA COMPONENT CABLES ? SHOULD I LEAVE THE DVD IN PROGRESSIVE OR LET THE MITS DO THE SCALING ? THANKS FOR YOUR HELP. MY THEATER IS DONE, SOUND IS AWSOME, I HAVE A CUSTOM BUILT STAND THAT HOUSES MY CENTER CHANNEL SPEAKER, SUB, AND COMPONENTS . . . NOW ALL I NEED IS A BIG TV ! THANKS AGAIN.

Originally posted by garciab
I'm not Michael, but I'll butt in anyway. I'll add to your advice and point out that this is entirely dependant on ambient noise levels. The 'always on' fan is audible at all times in my house, but is easily tuned out with the least amount of ambient noise. Once the tv is turned on, the other fan drowns it out :) I was surprised to notice the constant fan on the first night before bedtime. The tv sits along the wall that my MBR and LR share, and I could hear the fan as I dosed off to sleep. Of course the rest of the house was dead quiet. Every morning as I walk through the LR into the kitchen, I can hear it as well. I don't think I can hear it now that I've put two cabinets around the tv though. I'll check in the morning. I've had my 62725 for about 2 months now. I can not hear the fan at all when the TV is turned off. I can hear it slightly when it is on. I also own an RCA F38310 who's fan I can hear 24/7. I just went over to the Mits and put my ear up to every part of the TV and I swear I can't hear anything. And I have a very quiet apartment. I'd rate my sense of hearing as excellent. Maybe you guys with loud fans have defective sets. I also had a 62525 prior to this that I swapped out because of the glare. I never heard the fan on that set either.

Originally posted by Michael Mohrmann
I don't own a Mits (actually I own an 11 year-old 35" Mits tube). My opinions are based on what I have experienced in the dealer's stores. When I turn off a Mits DLP, wait a few minutes for the cooling down period and the fan(s) to switch to "low" mode, but I can still hear the fan(s) at least 5 feet away in a noisy store, that's too loud. When I walk into a demo room, with its doors open, and I can hear the "idle" fan(s) anywhere in the room, that's too loud.

Maybe your comments were meant for DCinDC?

Michael

I have had the 62725 for about two months now. We have 8 month twins so my wife and I often end up sleeping in the living room (where the Mits is) with the babies when they are sick. The fan is absolutely not that loud to us. Sometimes we even all end up sleeping about 4 feet from the set (if we decide to just make a pallet on the floor for all four of us) and fan noise is a NON issue. Once the main fan kicks off, the sound is negligable and definitely not annoying.

Also I almost always have to lower the sound significantly to barely audible while we are putting the babies to sleep (and of course this means the main fan is on) and we still have no loud fan noise.

And to add to it we live on 40 quiet acres with zero outside noise. If there were annoying fan noise we would hear it. AND I had the Samsung 61" for 18 months before the 62725 so I have something with which to compare the sound level. Once again...non-issue with the Mits.

If you are hearing fan noise in a noisy store with various televisions on at varying volume levels there is something wrong with that set or you have bionic ears!

Just my two cents.

Originally posted by coolstrategist
If you are hearing fan noise in a noisy store with various televisions on at varying volume levels there is something wrong with that set or you have bionic ears!
I don't have bionic ears, but I am sensitive to extraneous noises at home. I've had our subwoofers exhibit a slight hum, which didn't bother my wife and 11 year-old (they assumed it was normal). Luckily for me, I was able to find a solution with the manufacturer's help.

I am an audio first, video distant second person. Any added noises in the room that I can hear above the floor noise of our audio system is a problem. I am not looking forward to having a DirecTiVo in our home (switching from cable TV), as these appear to have a fan active at all times like a PC.

I actually envy those people who do not find the "idle" fan noise of the Mits DLPs objectionable. Screen glare excluded, the 52725 had the best looking picture of any RPTV we auditioned. I figured we could live with some amount of glare, as we have with our 35" Mits tube for 11 years. But not the "idle" fan noise.

Now, if someone was able to upgrade the fan in their Mits DLP to reduce or eliminate the fan noise, I would love to hear that before we go ahead and open the Sony 55xs955 sitting at our home. We have 23 days left on the return.

Michael

Michael,

I'm in the same boat as you. Had the Mit's 62725 delivered 3 days ago and yes, I too can hear the fan, and it's driving me nuts. I can only hear the rear fan at moderate volumes or scene changes in movies. Once you start to hear it, I think you can't help but be bothered by it. I sit about 15 feet away from the set, and can still hear it at that distance. If I keep the volume down, you will continuously hear it.

It's a shame, because I love the PQ from the Mit's.. I'm going to give them a shot at coming out to see if there is anything that can be done before returning it.

Good luck,
Jeff

Now to be fair guys I do HEAR the fan when I am in the room with the Mits. Even from 15 or so feet. It is just that it immediately just became a part of the ambient noise level for us. It was not a high level sound at all. And remember this is after having the "quiet" Samsung being played at low levels in total quiet.

I assume you have central air or a furnace. I can clearly hear both of these when they kick on or are running but I am not bothered by the noise level. But to your point, my dad is one of those people who hates to sleep in a room where he can hear the central air running.

So yes I can hear it, it is clearly audible, but on a decibel scale if I put my SPL meter to it tonight I am confident it would not be classified as noisy or a loud level.

But it depends on the user as to whether or not you can tolerate the minimal sound level. And I also assume that how the fan sound affects a particular room or person clearly is affected by existing room treatments that may absorb sound or reflect it.

Originally posted by coolstrategist

So yes I can hear it, it is clearly audible, but on a decibel scale if I put my SPL meter to it tonight I am confident it would not be classified as noisy or a loud level.



Please take a couple of measurements and document distance so that I can take readings of my own for comparison. I presently can only take readings in front of the tv (side cabinetry), so I'll take some at the front edges, in the middle, and from my seating position. Both with the tv on and off.

If anyone else who doesn't find the fan noise objectionable would like to do the same, I would be very grateful. I may have a noisy set, and I'd like evidence to present for repair. Thanks.

My Mits 52725 sits in the corner of a finished basement, carpeted floor, but blank walls and no window hangings. With the cavernous corner and flat surfaces to act like a megaphone, you'd think I'd hear all kinds of fan noise, but I really don't notice it unless I turn the TV WAY down (to around 10 or less) and listen closely for it.

For reference, I normally have the volume in the upper teens or low 20's when I'm watching the TV (don't have a surround system yet....waaaah).

When I turn the TV off, I sometimes notice the fan noise during cool-down, but NEVER do I notice any constant fan just by walking in the room.

A little knowledge can be a dangerous thing: I'd probably not notice the fan noise at all if I hadn't read about it here. And, when I'm watching shows and come across a very dark section, I find myself pausing and watching carefully for the dreaded "bright spot" but haven't found it yet. If I keep reading this forum I may turn into an electronics hypochondriac. C'mon people, let's focus on the positives!

I have had the 62525 since September, and the fan is an non-issue for me as well. I due, however, also have an HTPC and PS2 on all the time, so maybe Im used to it....but I swear I cannot hear the fans spinning inside either.....


....but then again, Ive been known to run a couple servers with xeon procs on my desk....now those will make it sound like a flight deck.......

Originally posted by videobruce
Now, I thought I was bad at just over a year procrastinating over when/what TV to get.........:rolleyes:

The well known issue of the 'glare screen', your comments were with the screen on or off? This isn't the only RPTV that has a highly reflective screen. CRT RPTV's had had them for many years and I'm suprised that all of a sudden it is a issue. I never liked them either (long before this set came out). My old CRT RPTV doesn't have one (they were just starting to appear then).
On the fan noise, do you have rugs on the floors? Are their curtains or drapes on the windows? How about the amount of furniture? All of that will absorb sound, but it almost sounds as your set might be noiser than others. Have yo8u considered a exchange or at least a service call first before you return it?

videobruce, thanks for your comments. I have the screen on. I bought this TV to replace a 5 yr. old 32" Sony CRT. The Sony did have some glare, but not to the extent of the Mitsu. I have seen the TV with the screen off, but in my opinion, you lose some PQ when the screen is off.

Let me put it this way. With the screen on, I like the Mitsu PQ better than other HD2+ DLP's. Once the screen is off the Mitsu, though, I personally prefer the picture on some of the other HD2+ sets (well, one in particular...). I would've considered just buying the trim kit if that was the only issue. But with the fan noise, I just couldn't commit to a long term relationship with this TV ;).

I took some pictures to demonstrate the level of glare. These were taken at 2:00 pm here in Phoenix AZ, with all of the shades drawn shut. My family room, where the TV is located, has three walls. The left wall has two windows, and the rear wall directly opposite the TV has two windows. The Family Room opens up to the rest of the house on the right side, so more light comes in from there through a bay window and a sliding glass door. No shortage of windows, I guess you could say.

My situation may be a bit extreme.

P.S. Please excuse the current layout. I have a Laurier Odeon Home Theater Unit on order. Until that arrives, I have the TV hanging 8" over on each side of a TV Stand, and the center channel speaker sitting on the floor :mad: .

Here's the other pic depicting the room layout:

Bkaz, with the layout of your room, have you thought about a set of room darkening shades for that window right by the TV? Given the setup you've got, ANY set that has a plexi or glass screen is going to have glare on it

I like the screen on the Mits because I feel the added protection is worth it, but as previously mentioned, mine is in a basement.

I just put a deposit on the 52725 but am waiting for my stand and some work in my home before taking deiivery. I have read all of the problems w/these sets (shudder). I am hoping these problems represent .001 of the sets that have been sold. However, with regard to fan noise, I will be sitting about 12 feet from the TV. I am an audiophile (B&W CDM7NT, CDMCNT, CDMSNT, CDM1SE & Velodyne HGS 10 & B&K AVR 507). Unfortunately, I can hear bugs walking on the ceiling. I also hear the hum from the servo in my subwoofer, but have gotten used to it. My concern here is that if I am listening to an SACD, like Diana Krall, that the noise from the fan will bug me (a lot). That being said, it appears that all of the DLPs have internal fans and there is no escaping some noise from the TV, correct? Because if that is the case, I will move forward. I still think the PQ from the Mits is the best I have seen in all the stores (BB, CC, Tweeter).

Just an update with my 'darkness' problem (not sure how to reference my old post #1600), after the lamp replacement which didnt help, Mits is sending a chasis (without the light engine) to Ultimate Electronics and they will be swapping out the old one once it arrives. Not clear exactly what comprises the chasis but at least Mits is trying.

thanks!

ed

AEC,
Personally I would buy this set for the picture quality, not fan noise. I own the set and yes there is some fan noise, but not enough to distract myself or my wife from enjoying tv.
I would at least purchase the set from a store that has a good return policy and try it in your environment before passing judgment on this set.

Originally posted by AEC
That being said, it appears that all of the DLPs have internal fans and there is no escaping some noise from the TV, correct?
Yes, they all appear to have internal fans, as do the LCD RPTVs. But the Mits DLPs are the only RPTVs I know of that have a fan running even when powered off (standby mode). It is THAT fan noise a person wanting a quiet room for music might object to.

Michael

I do notice the fan noise (the one that is on with the TV is on too) which at times can be distracting. This is my second 52725 (the first one had a dead spot on the screen and was replaced). I would swear that the second set has a louder fan that the first one did. I've called Mits and they are sending an authorized tech but I'm a little worried about having someone tinker with it. Has anyone done this yet? If so what were the results?

Also, I asked previously whether anyone has problem using the pause button to freeze the screen. I can do it if I'm using an antenna input but not if I'm using an HDMI or S-Video input. Has anyone been able to freeze the screen using these connections? I've gotten conflicting info from Mits on this point. The first customer service person I spoke with said this was a defect; the second said that the pause feature will not work with HDMI or other "digital inputs."

mench -
FYI: I can "freeze" on HDMI (Samsung 360 HD Sat.) and on ANT1, and on S-Video (Tivo).

Also, for what it's worth....the fan noise doesn't bother me. I consider myself sensitive to spurious noises, and I simply don't notice it. Again, it all depends on your personal preference and room situation.

thanks Boris, that's what I figured. It makes no sense that I wouldn't be able to freeze using HDMI as my source input especially since I can freeze it when that same source is being used PIP.

Does anyone have any thoughts about whether it is worth it to get an extended warranty for these tvs? Normally, I don't bother and have read that they can be a waste of money but given this technology (and the price of these sets) I was wondering if it might make sense to plunk down a few hundred bucks for three years of extended service.

Originally posted by garciab
Please take a couple of measurements and document distance so that I can take readings of my own for comparison. I presently can only take readings in front of the tv (side cabinetry), so I'll take some at the front edges, in the middle, and from my seating position. Both with the tv on and off.

If anyone else who doesn't find the fan noise objectionable would like to do the same, I would be very grateful. I may have a noisy set, and I'd like evidence to present for repair. Thanks.

garciab, I have had my set for about 2 months now and fortunatly, no problems. The glare issue is controlable in my HT room. When I got the set the fan noise was very noticable but as time goes on the brain, I have found or at least my brain has sort of cancelled out the noise.

I went and took some dB readings this morning with my Ratshack sound meter. It was set at C weight, slow responce, meter at the 60 range.

My findings:
Mits turned off, right rear 1 1/2 in from fan grill = 51dB
Mits turned on, left rear 1 1/2 in from fan grill = 56dB

I also noted that with the Mits on, the sound level from the right rear also goes up to 56dB.

As a reference for me, my hot running PC with extra fans hits about 64dB at the 1 1/2 inch distance.
Hope this helps.

:)

.S. Please excuse the current layout. I have a Laurier Odeon Home Theater Unit on order. Until that arrives, I have the TV hanging 8" over on each side of a TV Stand, and the center channel speaker sitting on the floor . I thought you were going for the 'Captain Kirk' look..........:D

For those who are complaining about fan noise, have any of you tried noise damping mats or tiles to place behind the set? Without going to the extreme of covering a whole wall with them or making your Living room a Anechoic chamber;

http://www.bell-labs.com/org/1133/Research/Acoustics/AnechoicPicture2.html

Some scrap plush carpet (2'x3' or 3'x4') leaning up against the wall to see if they help might be a place to start!

BTW; the Mits has FIVE fans in all;

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=4464476&fullpage=1

Originally posted by videobruce

BTW; the Mits has FIVE fans in all;


Fan noise still not an issue for me, but I stand corrected. Sorry about that.

Originally posted by videobruce
BTW; the Mits has FIVE fans in all;

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=4464476&fullpage=1
I wonder which of the five stay on when the TV is powered off (after the cooling down period)?

Michael

I can't imagine why ANY would stay on!

Originally posted by videobruce
I can't imagine why ANY would stay on!
I am not sure whether you were being sarcastic or not, but for anyone who's interested, the Mits DLPs leaves at least one fan active after the TV has been powered down and the lamp cooling period has finished. According to Mits, there are circuits that remain active while the TV is in standby mode, and the fan(s) that is still active is used to keep those circuits cooled.

I have heard that these circuits could be related to the cable card or the sensing circuits for the NetCommand functions. Mits wouldn't answer my question directly. I think others have had more success, and maybe they'll post here if someone is truly curious.

Michael

Got my first 62725 about two weeks ago. It was replaced because it could not received digital channels. Before it was returned, I connected my Powerbook to the VGA connector and added the PC device with Net Command. The TV appeared as a second display to my Powerbook and reported itself as a "Mitsubishi DLP" (I'm not entirely sure about the name) with a limited set of display resolutions and refresh rates. On of these was 1280 x 720 at 60 Hz. With this resolution selected, I was able to correctly display 1280x720 images at the native resolution of the TV. I was happy.

However, the replacement set does not work this way. With the same setup, the TV appears as a "VGA Display" with a generic (long) list of resolutions and refresh rates. The 1280 x 720 resolution is not in the list. As a result, I cannot display 1280x720 images. Both TV's had the rev 3 firmware. I was not happy.

After researching this on the web, I found that the VGA connector includes a serial data link for passing plug and play information between a display and computer. It's called the VESA Display Data Channel Command Interface (DDC/CI). All the modern CRT and LCD displays I have tried (about 6) support it. An older monitor appeared as a "VGA Display" so I assume this is the Mac response if the display does not implement DDC/CI. Interestly, NEC-Mitsubishi Electronics Display has been a big proponent of DDC/CI: google for "whitepaper_dcc-ci_naviset.pdf" and "naviset_background_article_engl.pdf".

I returned to my dealer (Tweeter) and tried three WDxx725's and a Samsung. None of the Mits worked, but the Samsung did. I don't understand why my first TV worked but the other Mits don't.

Any ideas?

I would be interested in how the VGA input worked as well as I might be interested in trying it with an external video scaler just to see how it worked.

There does appear to be an RGBHV connection there as well so I could always try it that way.

I can't believe that Mits has made it this difficult to use the VGA input.

One additional thing that I have noticed recently about DLP is that the vertical off axis performance is really much more limited than the horizontal is. If you are not dead on viewing height right at the middle of the screen, performance starts to degrade rather quickly. Everyone pays attention to horizontal off axis performance but you should really consider vertical as well. In my house we have many family members that like to lounge on the carpeted floor to watch. Frankly those that do will be subjected to a precipitous drop in performance if their eyes are at all below the bottom of the screen. Heck I have witnessed performance variances even with eyes level with the bottom of the screen.

If I do go with a Mits DLP I am thinking of ever so slightly tilting the thing back to front in an effort to limit the performance varience for those viewing from just below the level of the screen and about 12' out from the set. Obviously one would not want to do this too much as it would then degrade performance for those with eye level at the middle of the screen. I have also noticed that this is more apparent if the set is running contrast hot. Seriously we are talking about changes occurring over a matter of inches. That is why I find the focus on horizontal off axis interesting. At least we are talking about feet in that case.

Has anyone else noticed and has anyone else tried a slight tilt to see what the result is?

I am not sure whether you were being sarcastic or not, No I wasn't! Any circuit in the standby mode shouldn't need to have a fan on it!
Has anyone measured the power consumption of this when it is off, or should I say standby? If it is 3 or 4 watts, then why would a fan be needed??

The cablecard is in constant communication with the cable co end... that is why the secondary fan is on. When we are talking about power, even 3 or 4 watts of consumption on an IC or circuit board can be significant enough to require cooling. Now if there was some sort of passive heat sink, I would understand that an additional fan would be not as necessary. Probably, there is no sink and an active colling method is required. If everything were shut off completely, then every time you turn the TV on, the cablecard would need to reinitialize. That takes a minute or so depending on your cable co.

Now I do agree that perhaps the TV should be smart enough to realize that there is no cablecard and shut off the circuitry for it in those cases, but in cases with the cablecard installed, it's a moot point. For what it's worth, the standby fan is of no consequence to me. I can only hear it when I get about foot away from the TV and even still it is a very low hum. It's a non issue to me.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
The cablecard is in constant communication with the cable co end... that is why the secondary fan is on. When we are talking about power, even 3 or 4 watts of consumption on an IC or circuit board can be significant enough to require cooling. Now if there was some sort of passive heat sink, I would understand that an additional fan would be not as necessary. Probably, there is no sink and an active colling method is required. If everything were shut off completely, then every time you turn the TV on, the cablecard would need to reinitialize. That takes a minute or so depending on your cable co.

Now I do agree that perhaps the TV should be smart enough to realize that there is no cablecard and shut off the circuitry for it in those cases, but in cases with the cablecard installed, it's a moot point. For what it's worth, the standby fan is of no consequence to me. I can only hear it when I get about foot away from the TV and even still it is a very low hum. It's a non issue to me.

So ...if a person, such as myself, did not use a cablecard, could if he was bothered by the secondary fan disconect it with no adverse effect?
Also with that same thought, if or I should say when it burns out would not need to get it replaced.
I have Directv with the HD Tivo and OTA local HD feed so the secondary fan is not, in this case, needed or wanted.

Without a schematic showing what exactly the secondary fan is cooling, I wouldn't take a chance... It is pretty certain that it is for the cablecard, but without knowing what other circuitry is affected by the fan, it is a chance.

Originally posted by BOWERSHT
NEW TO THE FORUM, NEW TO THE THREAD. CAN ANYBODY TELL ME HOW A SONY DVP685 PROGRESSIVE SCAN DVD (NO UPSCALING) WILL LOOK ON A WD52725 VIA COMPONENT CABLES ? SHOULD I LEAVE THE DVD IN PROGRESSIVE OR LET THE MITS DO THE SCALING ? THANKS FOR YOUR HELP. MY THEATER IS DONE, SOUND IS AWSOME, I HAVE A CUSTOM BUILT STAND THAT HOUSES MY CENTER CHANNEL SPEAKER, SUB, AND COMPONENTS . . . NOW ALL I NEED IS A BIG TV ! THANKS AGAIN.


I was concerned about the quality of the DVD display when I bought my 62725. I have an 8 year old Sony that I use S-Video. At the time I bought it it was top of Sony's line.. S-Video and Optical 5.1 out... I was prepared to but the new Sony HDMI DVP-NS975V that is just starting to ship.

I usually do a movie or two over the weekend and frankly the picture is so good that I have decided to cool my heels till the price drops a little.. and maybe I can find a black faced DVD with HDMI... since all my components and the TV are black... Maybe next years DVD players will be better...

I think what ever input you throw at it it will be great... Let me also say that nothing coming over the cable or off the DVD is as good as an OTA HD signal off a $40 Terk antenna I have next to the TV.... :D ... I'm waiting for my CC to be installed... My Cable company says they have hardware problems and can't make ANY CC work... :confused:

Originally posted by mench
Does anyone have any thoughts about whether it is worth it to get an extended warranty for these TVs? Normally, I don't bother and have read that they can be a waste of money but given this technology (and the price of these sets) I was wondering if it might make sense to plunk down a few hundred bucks for three years of extended service.

Well, I looked at the Extended Warranty also. I usually don't buy them and in the end I passed on this one also.. I decided to spend the some of money on a power conditioner.. an ADCOM 315. If the TV works for a year without a problem then you probably won't have any major problems... Seems if you have do put some sort of surge suppressor so you might as well get the best... Then all my stuff will run off of it and I will be ahead in the long run...

In my case the expected maintenance... the bulb was not covered... so even with the extended coverage your still faced with some costs... and at the end of three years.. two actually .... over warranty... you are faced with possible repair cost again...

BTW, I replaced a RPTV that took some sort of spike because one of my CRTs cracked and leaked coolant on the main board... I never considered any of that stuff was worth anything but more profits for the dealer... :( :(

I'd have to say "AMEN" to the guy that posted the comment that "you buy this set for it's picture" and in my mind to a lesser degree, all the bells an whistles it offers. It seems like there are _tons_ of people who have indicated that while they acknowledge that the fans are there and on... the noise simply isn't loud enough to make them unhappy or uncomfortable while watching TV. The other comment regarding noise was also a keeper. Someone siad if you can hear the fan from another room, then you probably have a defective set/fan. Now of course... all of us that are reporting insignificant amounts of noise may be stone deaf :) from too much loud music in our "uth".

The _ONLY_ time I notice the fan is when I turn on the set or turn off the set and the picture isn't there. Once the actual signal is coming through you can't hear squat.

I'm admitedly biased now, but I looked long and hard at JVC D-ILA, Sony, Pany, Samy, and Toshiba... and I still thought this set had more to offer in the PQ department and I/Os (at least for me) and that's why I think it's the best all-around RPT in this category. I actually was turned off by the glare of the 525 and thought the 62725 might be marginally better, but bought the 62725 and I'm amazed how _insignificant_ the glare issue actually is. And my set is opposite a southern-exposure with a 10 foot wide, 7 foot high wall of glass with no curtains/shades.

Any one with pixelation on HDTV?
I have a 52725 which Ultimate Electronics gave me in exchange after I had two Samsung HLP 5663 sets with problems in the first month of ownership. My main concern/question is the picture does not seem as sharp on HD (either OTA or through DVR cable box) as the Samsung. There is subtle pixelation (but disturbing to me) that I notice especially against light solid colors like the sky. It is consistent on either source of HDTV and my prog. scan DVD player. I find it hard to believe that if this was the best the picture could be that so many people would rave about the picture quality. I have set the video settings to those recommended in this thread but still find pixelation of light/white backgrounds,etc. Any ideas...Should I push my luck with Ultimate and try another Mits 725?

what are your video settings? I notice some very slight noise on light brownish shades in the background... nothing annoying though.

Settings:
Noise reduction : reduction
Define edge: off
color temp: low
color: 39
Sharpness: 0
Brightness: 45
Contrast: 41
I just switched my cable box component output from 1080I to 720p and that seemed to help some.

JACKMD

If you are looking for a black face DVD player with HDMI, check out the new Denon 2910 or 3910. They come in either black or silver - your choice.

All,

I've search the forums for mosquitos, and found one other person with the problem and no answers. Maybe it's called something else?

In about 90% of HD content I'm seeing really bad flickering in big solid areas like sky, walls, etc. I believe this is called mosquitos. Sometimes I don't see it however, and am wondering if it's just content. Any ideas on how to adjust it out, or at least down? It's quite distracting.

Other than that I love the set (52725). DVDs don't look as great as I was expecting (using Panny S97S over HDMI) and needed a lot of tweaking. I also see the bright spot - but only when changing channels/inputs, and when something on the ps2 is loading. It's so faint I never see it with any content on the screen, so I'm not worried about it at this point. Also using the CC from comcast and only get two channels that are filled in by the guide. Oh, and channel changing is horrendously slow, but I don't flip around much, so whatever.

Thanks for any input on the mosquito issue.

The cablecard is in constant communication with the cable co end... that is why the secondary fan is on. When we are talking about power, even 3 or 4 watts of consumption on an IC or circuit board can be significant enough to require cooling. Not to beat a dead horse, but this isn't the only piece of equipment that is on 24/7. Look at all the cable boxes themselves, let along cable modems, DSL modems etc.
None of those (to my knowledge) have a fan. Those 3 or 4 watts are from the switching PS for the most part.

Sorry, if it was designed correctly there shouldn't be a need for a fan when it is off (standby)!

Originally posted by videobruce
Not to beat a dead horse, but this isn't the only piece of equipment that is on 24/7. Look at all the cable boxes themselves, let along cable modems, DSL modems etc.
None of those (to my knowledge) have a fan. Those 3 or 4 watts are from the switching PS for the most part.

Sorry, if it was designed correctly there shouldn't be a need for a fan when it is off (standby)!

I'm not debating the virtues of Mitsubishi's design or anything, but if you take the cablecard out even when the set is off, you will find that it is warm to the touch. That whole area behind the set is fairly warm. Whatever there is in there needs the heat dissipated.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
I'm not debating the virtues of Mitsubishi's design or anything, but if you take the cablecard out even when the set is off, you will find that it is warm to the touch. That whole area behind the set is fairly warm. Whatever there is in there needs the heat dissipated.

That's pretty much how I see it. Whether it *should* be needed or not, I doubt they put in an extra fan and have it running all the time for no reason. Personally, I'll leave everything connected rather than run any kind of risk with my $4K TV!!!

-Randy

Furthermore, if you look at a cablecard, it is a PCMCIA card. Next time anyone has a chance, take out a PCMCIA card out of a running laptop and see how hot that thing is. The card itself when it is running is fairly warm and since the card runs when the TV is off, it needs to be cooled. I'd rather Mitsubishi error on the side of being safe and putting extra cooling in rather than leaving it out.

We have proudly owned the 62825 for a few weeks and absolutely love the PQ. The fan noise with the set on is not a problem, but I am disturbed with the fan(s) running when the set is off. Anyone know why Mits has this feature, and what problems I would create if I disconnected the power to the set after cooldowns?

Originally posted by IFLYSWA
That's pretty much how I see it. Whether it *should* be needed or not, I doubt they put in an extra fan and have it running all the time for no reason. Personally, I'll leave everything connected rather than run any kind of risk with my $4K TV!!!-Randy I never said or implied to turn off the fan, or that it wasn't needed. The set should of been designed so that a fan isn't needed when it is OFF! I bring this up because of the number of people complaining about fan noise and returning the set because of it!
If the CC isn't being used I would remove it, put it in a anti static bag and put it in the pouch the owners manual came in.

How many other TV's or any consumer device have a fan running 24/7?

Originally posted by videobruce
I never said or implied to turn off the fan, or that it wasn't needed.
The set should of been designed so that a fan isn't needed when it is OFF!
If the CC isn't being used I would remove it, put it in a anti static bag and put it in the pouch the owners manual came in.

How many other TV's or any consumer device have a fan running 24/7?

Somebody mentioned disconnecting the fan...even with that, I wasn't really aiming my statement at them. I was just commenting like others. Not being an EE (I only tried that for my first semester in college!), I don't have the slightest clue why they designed the TV where it would need the fan, but it seems it does, so I'll live with it.

As for other consumer devices that have fans running 24/7, my ReplayTVs do. And they are louder than the Mits' fans. I am pretty much oblivious to the Mits fan noise due to them, and the two computers that are generally running right behind me when I am watching TV....I don't know if that is a good thing or a bad thing! ;)

-Randy

Originally posted by radtek

My findings:
Mits turned off, right rear 1 1/2 in from fan grill = 51dB
Mits turned on, left rear 1 1/2 in from fan grill = 56dB

I also noted that with the Mits on, the sound level from the right rear also goes up to 56dB.

:)

Radtek,

Thanks very much, this helps alot. My readings were very much like yours, so I will say my tv is normal. It must be the frequency of the second fan that I am sensitive to, my spl meter couldn't pick it up, but it's loud enough for me to hear clearly at all times. I'll look to see if I can trap it with absorption material in the future.

No wonder there is a power crunch in this country. Besides no one turning anything off, even when it is off, it isn't!

Does someone here that has this set and has a DVM with a 20 amp scale? Would/could you make up a test lead out of a 6' extension cord by using a utility knife, separating the wires in the middle of the cord, cutting ONE side, soldering on a short piece of lamp cord (same type) with either a dual banana plug or separate banana plugs (depending on your meter and if the current jacks are next to each other or not) on the end to measure the current draw with the set off and on?

Just be sure to have the meter on the correct scale AND to have the plugs in the correct jacks. Some meters have a low and high current input.

The attached photo are two different cables. The top cable is 18 guage with a dual banana plug, the bottom is 16 guage with separate plugs for the high current scale.

Just experienced an interesting problem.

Tried to play Disney's Beauty and the Beast, Blockbuster rented DVD, and get flickering on many seens. Captioning shown is a few seens, not closed caption, appears low definition. Almost seems that the DVD is not recorded in 480P but soemthing much lower. Will discuss with Blockbuster store. Anyone else ever see this kind of problem? All other DVD's have been fine, including other cartoons.

Hey all,

I have the 725 and the famous "tilt"...I had the service tech out here today and he mentioned that he was going to come back and do an "electronic" adjustment rather then do the physical adjustment most have talked about here....

Before I let him touch my set, I was curious if there were any pro/con's to letting him do the electronic adjustment?

CaptainxOr and I are both complaining about "noise", "flickering", "mosquitoes", "pixelation" or whatever term you want to give this phenomenon with solid color backgrounds like the sky. Anyone else with this problem or suggestions regarding fixing it? I listed my settings a few posts back at UMR's request.
I personally am not bothered by the fan noise. I don't hear it when the TV is on and I hear it when the TV is off but it is not loud or annoying. Maybe if I were sleeping next to my TV it would bother me :). I am trying to decide whether to return my Mits for another identical model or switch to an LCD set or something else as I am bothered by the noise with HD channels that I have mentioned. Thanks!

Originally posted by scottmd1us
Hey all,

I have the 725 and the famous "tilt"...I had the service tech out here today and he mentioned that he was going to come back and do an "electronic" adjustment rather then do the physical adjustment most have talked about here....

Before I let him touch my set, I was curious if there were any pro/con's to letting him do the electronic adjustment?

As for me, I would do the electronic adjustment myself before letting the service guy touch anything. do a search or look back and you will find directions on how to get into the service menu by punching in a few buttons on the remote. Once in there the directions appear on the screen.
Sorry I don't have the codes off hand or the post location for you.

Originally posted by TomTx
As for me, I would do the electronic adjustment myself before letting the service guy touch anything. do a search or look back and you will find directions on how to get into the service menu by punching in a few buttons on the remote. Once in there the directions appear on the screen.
Sorry I don't have the codes off hand or the post location for you.

Does anyone know what "electronic" adjustment is there other than HPOS and VPOS in the service menu? Neither of which will help you with a "tilt".

There are none as far as tilt is concerned!

Ultimate TV repair guy came to check out my pixelation problem. I found it interesting that he didn't even try to make any adjustment in the video settings to improve the problem. I had already made changes as listed above in a posting. He called Mits and they had him plug in a generator and his test patterns looked OK. They authorized him to replace the chassis but he thinks that all of the Mits have some pixelation and is encouraging me to check out LCD sets as he thinks the picture is better. Just what is a "chassis" and will it fix my problem? I don't like repairing a TV that is less than 2 weeks old. Should I get a second Mits 52725 rather than have them repair this one or should I bag DLP all together because I also had problems with 2 Samsung HLP 5063??

beemd,

very interesting. if you look back, you'll find that I made an inquiry about mosquito noise as well. i got no responses. since then, i notice it much less, and i do look for it. it seems to me to be a source issue, maybe even a signal strength issue. i've not tweeked my settings at all, and the noise seems to be more present with older material. but i do see it occasionally on ota hd material, like csi. if you do get a chassis replacement, please let us know if that fixed your problem.

Originally posted by HDorBust
I had a couple black blotches on the lower third of the screen, when the tech came out (without any lens cleaner) I grabbed my camera lens brush with the bulb blower and blew the offending dirt (actually looked like two small shards of white plastic) off of the mirror.



That ws the exact same problem I had. A shard of white plastic on the rear mirror. At least my tech came equipped with lintless cleaning cloths and cleaning spray.

I've had my 62725 for about 2 months now and I have a quick question about one of the inputs...

What's the difference between the component inputs versus the DTV-input? They both seem to have the component type connection, but is the DTV input expecting a different type of signal? Is this basically just a component 3 input?

Originally posted by rjg41
That will only be true if the digital cable channels can be reached by the TV's digital tuner. Some cable systems have a portion of their digital channels within the frequency range handled by the TV's digital tuner but often many of the digital channels are above the tuner's range. The only way you can watch them with a box/cable card would be to shift the frequency range. Years ago before TV's had cable tuners, many people made their own to get at the midband channels.

I have the ultra basic cable from TW($13/mo) in addition to RR. Just for giggles I hooked up the cable to my 52725. To my amazment, I got the locals in HD plus INHD, INHD2, and Discovery HD. The latter show up as channel 1030.

Originally posted by neoikon
I've had my 62725 for about 2 months now and I have a quick question about one of the inputs...

What's the difference between the component inputs versus the DTV-input? They both seem to have the component type connection, but is the DTV input expecting a different type of signal? Is this basically just a component 3 input?

I believe I have found the answer to my own question (through reading and not necessarily from physically trying it out). The Input-DTV can be used as a normal component input (effectively component-3, though people have had qwirky results and end up using component 1 or 2 instead) or as an RGBHV input. (Yes, I know it says it right on there, but I didn't realize there was such a thing an RGBHV input). Apparently this is a typical(?) computer's VGA broken out into 5 cables.

Here is an example of a cable:

http://www.digitalconnection.com/products/cables/eehd5r.asp

I'm perhaps going to use this for input from my HTPC's HD tuner for PVR uses.

Originally posted by dwarren2
I have the ultra basic cable from TW($13/mo) in addition to RR. Just for giggles I hooked up the cable to my 52725. To my amazment, I got the locals in HD plus INHD, INHD2, and Discovery HD. The latter show up as channel 1030.

I also have the ultra basic cable and I found the same thing (except I only got local channels and nothing cool like Discovery HD). This is due to the TV's built-in QAM tuner as well as FCC regulations requiring cable companies transmit local channels in HD (where available) and not make it a premium service (or something to that effect, I don't know the exact regulation).

I for one am very happy that this TV has built-in tuner(s). :]

UGH, Mits is horrible at customer service.

So it turns out the problem with my TV is that the Lamp is burnt out. I called Mits one time and they referred me to a service company to fix the TV. After scheduling an appointment the service company called back to say that the steady red light for Status meant my Lamp has burnt out. Mits won't cover that under the warranty, so the service company had to cancel their service call and I had to call Mits directly to get a new Lamp. I ordered the Lamp and was told it would be at my office in two days. Two days later, nothing. I called last Friday and after spending an hour and 20 minutes on hold finally found out that they didn't put down the part number for my Lamp so the order never went out. They weren't proactive enough to call me though, they just let it go. So they put another order in, and said it would be here on Tuesday (today).

Nothing showed up today. I called yet again, and after only being on hold for 25 minutes got ahold of someone. He told me he found the order but wait, something isn't right. There is no information about the order. He said taht is odd, and that he had never seen it before. Basically they screwed up yet again and didn't ship my Lamp to me. He said he would give my information to his supervisor to follow up since he (the customer service guy I was talking to) didn't know what to do now. So now I'm leave with a $4,000 TV that hasn't worked for 3 weeks. I only had 5 weeks of use out of the thing before it died. Oh and I was told that the replacement lamp "might" fix the problem, they weren't totally sure.

I hope none of you guys go through the same problems I've having. I needed to rant, and of course when I talk to the supervisor tomorrow I'm going to tell him how I'm ranting about my experiences with Mits on the forums (doubt it'll do any good).



Originally posted by Christobol
I bought my Mits WD-52725 about 40 days ago. Last weekend I woke up and was told by my roommate that the TV wouldn't turn on. I noticed that the Status light was a solid red. I went and tried the power button a few times, then hit the reset button. The light went out for a second or so before coming back on as red. I then unplugged the TV for 10 seconds, and upon giving it power the light came back on within a second. I checked the manual and it said that a solid red under status requires maintance by a Mits dealer. I bought the TV at the Good Guys, and was told that it would take them 12 days to send someone out to check out my TV. I'm pretty upset, a $4,000 TV that is less than 40 days old is no longer usable and no one will be able to check it out for nearly two weeks.

Onto the second TV. A friend of mine bought the same TV 4 or 5 days before me. I told him about my problem Sat morning. Since then he said that his TV has lost video three times over the weekend. One time while he was watching a HDMI feed, the second time while watching the Componet 1 input, and the third time while watching the Componet 2 input. He had to turn the TV off to get the video back. While his problem is not as serious as mine it is still an issue and could be an indicator to future problems. He called Mits and they said it could require a firmware update and that they would send someone out.

Has anyone else had these problems? My only personal experience with the TV thus far as not been good.