Well while I was trying to figure out if a Mits 725 set that was possibly going to be delivered to me had either the bright spot problem or the tilt problem I saw a dead pixel on a the DLP. This was the first time I had seen a dead pixel on a DLP before. It was dead center of the screen about 3/4 of the way up from the middle of the screen to the top edge.

Man when one of these has a dead pixel it really stands out, especially if it is dead center where so much of the programing is focused.

I do not see how one's eyes would not be drawn to it in any instance where the surrounding image was light. The contrast of that black spec was so high that you just could not ignore it. I would guess that if it were over on an edge somewhere it would not be so bad. However where it was you just could not ignore it.

Has anyone had their Mits DLP Calibrated by an ISF guy?
If so,
Was it worth it (Did it increase the PQ that much)?
How much did it cost?
How long did it take?

I HAVE calibrated my set with the DVE disc.

jnug.....you sure it wasnt dirt or something on one of the two internal mirrors???

Originally posted by jnug


Man when one of these has a dead pixel it really stands out, especially if it is dead center where so much of the programing is focused.



Jnug, is there anyway you can take a picture of this problem? Thanks.

I would certainly take a pic for you if I had taken delivery of the set but I decided to have them send up another.

It was just to obvious and distracting mainly because of the size and the blackness of it. I can tell you that it was very very symmetrical. I can tell you that it did not budge whatever you did. It was there even on the TV start set up screen. There was not a single DLP on display in the store that had a dead pixel.

I went back tonight just to ask my sales guy if there was any chance that we were wrong and he said no. The display in question definitely had a dead pixel.

As indicated earlier, what was interesting here was how obvious it was in this technology as compared to plasma for example. Maybe the better black level of DLP is what makes something like this stand out so much.

Originally posted by rjg41
The $300 rebate coupon IS legit without question. I downloaded my copy on October 27 directly from the Mits web site and have contacted them about it to ensure they will honor it. Unfortunately it was posted for only a day or so and was pulled back.


Wondering if anyone has received their $300 rebate yet. I just sent mine in today via certified mail. Please post if and when someone receives their rebate.

Does anyone have a link or copy of form for rebate? I checked the website and didn't see anything.

I'm assuming that few of you have had any pixelation or mosquitoes problems as I didn't receive many responses to my question/complaint. I think I will see if Ultimate will provide a replacement Mits as there are so many other things I like about the Mits 725.

Originally posted by HDorBust
Channel Master 4228 8-bay antenna with CM rotor and Wineguard UHF-only pre-amp.

I get ALL Boston channels, but I am on a hill, so that helps, even though there is at least one other hill between me and Boston (2-1, 2-2, 4-1, 5-1, 5-2, 7-1, 7-2, 25-1, 38-1, 44-1, 44-2, 44-3, 44-4, 56-1, 68-1, 68-2, 68-3, 68-4, at least one Spanish channel) all with one rotor position. If I rotate the antenna I can get 9-1, 11-1, 50-1 and some others which I haven't cataloged. Lately I was able to receive 56-1 even at my old apartment which was only part way up on a much smaller hill about 10 miles south of my current location, and that was with the 4228 in the attic and a CM UHF-only pre-amp, but with leaves off the trees.

Note that you can get WMUR-DT & WENH-DT from Adelphia if you so choose.

I have Comcast in Derry not Adelphia. So we get the boston channels nothing in NH and no UPN or WB. Is there anything even worth watching on 68 and 50?

Pete

Originally posted by beemd
Does anyone have a link or copy of form for rebate? I checked the website and didn't see anything.

I'm assuming that few of you have had any pixelation or mosquitoes problems as I didn't receive many responses to my question/complaint. I think I will see if Ultimate will provide a replacement Mits as there are so many other things I like about the Mits 725.

This thread here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=463748) was created for the rebate.

Pete

I have a Mits 62725 and am thinking about getting a Panasonic DMR-85H Digital Video Recorder.

Has anyone tried a Panasonic 85H with the Mits 62725 television? Can the Panny 85H record 16:9 and play it back on the 62725?

I have heard that there is a "trick" to it because the signal is not "flagged" as a 16:9 signal.

I have BrightHouse Cable (used to be Time Warner) and a Pace HD box. Unfortunately the Panny 85H only has S-Video IN, no component, so I know I won't be able to record actual High Definition signals.

Thanks for any help on this...

-jb

jBeach.... I have a 525, as well as the 85H. The 85H only records SD signals, so the "trick" you speak of to record 16:9 on it , I havent heard. But just like a 16:9 on SD you have to stretch it. DVD playback looks AWESOME, I am using component. Plus, If yoiu want to get TV guide working on there, you must supply a cable connection to the dvd player, so it can download the info from the cable provider...

Originally posted by technik
jBeach.... I have a 525, as well as the 85H. The 85H only records SD signals, so the "trick" you speak of to record 16:9 on it , I havent heard. But just like a 16:9 on SD you have to stretch it.
Here's a link to an 895H review that mentions the trick I referred to. The review is for a 95H, but I assumed that an 85H would perform similarly. Skip to the second page for the trick I was talking about.

http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/article.asp?section_id=3&article_id=710&page_number=1&preview=

Originally posted by technik
Plus, If yoiu want to get TV guide working on there, you must supply a cable connection to the dvd player, so it can download the info from the cable provider...
I have BrightHouse cable and plan to connect it to the 85H with a direct S-Video connection from my cable set top box to the 85H.

I've heard that some people have trouble downloading the electronic TV guide when using an 85H. Does yours download the TV guide?

-john

So finally took delivery of a 725 today:

No bright spot........Be still my heart
No dead pixels.......will wonders never cease
No tilt.......yes I am a good person after all!!!

But then what is that down at the very bottom of the screen? I notice that right at the bottom right hand corner as you face the display it is like someone stuck a piece of paper or something on the screen or over the light engine because there is a vary shallow hump of a black shape that extends into the corner horizontally and is about an inch long and about 3/16 of an inch tall at its peak. It does not move when the image moves it does nothing but sit there and tick me off!!

So they are coming back to replace the set with another. More drama.

That is what I am not liking about this experience. There is just too much drama for what should be a pretty straightforward purchasing experience. I can't get out of the store or past the first day without some drama.

You guys have any idea what the heck that is?

I finally saw a Sony 55XS(LCD) today at Tweeter. I have already put a deposit (at a different dealer) on the Mits 52725 and had kind of ruled out the Sony because I had not seen one and the WE line of LCDs had no detail on the blacks. Unfortunately the two sets were not side by side so a reasonable comparison could not be made. The detail in the blacks on the Sony LCD improved greatly in this model. And the Mits (2) of them at the store were not calibrated properly because there was too much green coming through. Also saw the new Samsung and I was surprised at the quality of the picture. At least I have not taken delivery, so I don't have buyer's remorse yet, but w/all the problems on the Mits and the tenedency toward too much green, I am having second thoughts. I will need to look at the Sony again as well as the Samsung. If any of you have done the comparisons, I'd appreciate your input. Thanks.

Originally posted by petelang
I have Comcast in Derry not Adelphia. So we get the boston channels nothing in NH and no UPN or WB. Is there anything even worth watching on 68 and 50?

Pete

50-1 is just re-broadcasting their analog signal, so the PQ really suffers.

68 has 4 sub-channels, from memory I think there is PAX-east, PAX-west, Faith? and one other. I can't comment on the content, I haven't watched any of them.

Has anyone tried the new (or is it? Salesman said it was new 3 weeks ago???) Mitsubishi DLP 52" WD52825? It has a built-in HDD, but as that won't work with HD DirecTV, its a mute point. But he did say that it has the better "Diamond" screen, and an even better anti-glare screen. From what I could see, they had the 52825 up against the 65875 side by side, and the 825 did look better. But then perhaps a 52 up against a 65 might make a difference as well?

Originally posted by WRX_Rocky
Has anyone tried the new (or is it? Salesman said it was new 3 weeks ago???) Mitsubishi DLP 52" WD52825? It has a built-in HDD, but as that won't work with HD DirecTV, its a mute point. But he did say that it has the better "Diamond" screen, and an even better anti-glare screen. From what I could see, they had the 52825 up against the 65875 side by side, and the 825 did look better. But then perhaps a 52 up against a 65 might make a difference as well?

When I looked at Tweeter, it was almost $2K more than what I paid for the 52725. I was contemplating the trade-up, but I didn't think it was worth the price difference. It also would have put me in the next bracket for a service plan, $600 vs. the $350 I paid for the 52575.

So far I have only had the one service call to remove the 2 black blotches on the 52575 screen (caused by plastic shards on the mirror). The hair that appeared to be in the light engine must have freed itself (I blew some canned air in a vent, maybe that was the catalyst that caused it to be freed).

Originally posted by jnug


Man when one of these has a dead pixel it really stands out, especially if it is dead center where so much of the programing is focused.

Are you sure it's a pixel. Is it absolutley square? More likely than not, it's a piece of plastic on the rear mirror. A number of us have had problems with a small shard of plastic on the mirror causing an irregular black spot.

It was absolutely dead square. In fact both the sales guy and I recognized it for what it was right way mainly because of its symmetry. By the time we were done, two other store employees had seen it and all agreed, including those that had seen what an errant piece of plastic on the rear mirror can do.

In fact I am thinking that the set that eventually got delivered (see one of my other posts in this thread) that has an area about an inch long, humped in shape and about 3/16" tall at the peak of the hump right at the bottom right of the screen as you face it is your errant plastic or possibly light blocking foam problem. Hoping someone on the forum offers an opinion on that one. That is the set that is being planned for replacement by my store.

So, it is the display that never left the store that has the dead pixel in the center of the screen (I would think quite unusual for this technology...those with stronger technical background feel free to comment) and the display that is now in my house and planned for replacement that has the larger and irregular black area in the lower right corner.

Again I would encourage comments especially on the irregular area on the display that is in my house. Since the thing is fine in all other respects if that can be repaired I might be inclined to keeping the display instead of replacing it for fear of running into some other issues on yet a third display.

Thought I would chime in here also. I am on my second 52725. The first died after three nights and would not turn on at all, even after reset and unplug, etc.

This second one is pristine, HDMI and Firewire both work flawlessly, simplifying the cabling quite a bit ( one cable each ). No bright spot, no plastic on the mirrors, no tilt and a great picture. I have had the second one a couple of weeks now and use it quite a bit. My only issue was the lack of height for the stand and exchanged that for the Z-Line that was talked about here in this thread. Couldn't be happier and the wife is over the moon also.

Jeff

I've had my 52725 for a few days and have noticed a 'green tint' on a lot of images. It is less noticable on HD sources, but seems to be there sometimes.
I've tweeked the color using some of the values listed in this thread, and it does help some but does not eliminate it.
I've seen others mention this, but really didn't read about any real resolutions. Any information on this would be helpful.
I plan to get DVE and try to do my own calibration, but I just don't think it should be this bad.

I really first noticed it on the Kill Bill vol2 DVD, I tried playing this on the Toshiba SD-V592 via HDMI, but the green tint was horrible , the blacks were dark green. I replaced the DVD player with a different one via component and it looked much better, but still have green tints on a lot of scenes. The scene where Bill visits his brother out in the boonies, shows the hills with a green tint, and when you see the car over bills shoulder, the windshield is very green tinted.

I had my Mits for about five weeks and had absolutely no problems with it. However, ever since I had the cablecard installed, it seems to randomly lock up once a day or so. I will try pulling the cablecard and seeing if the problem goes away, but I was curious if anyone else started having problems once a cablecard was installed?

Well, I decided not to get a DLP at all, and just bought the JVC HD-ILA. But it won't be here untill the 23rd :( Will see how that goes . . . . . .

Originally posted by paudemge
I've had my 52725 for a few days and have noticed a 'green tint' on a lot of images. It is less noticable on HD sources, but seems to be there sometimes.
I've tweeked the color using some of the values listed in this thread, and it does help some but does not eliminate it.
I've seen others mention this, but really didn't read about any real resolutions. Any information on this would be helpful.
I plan to get DVE and try to do my own calibration, but I just don't think it should be this bad.

I really first noticed it on the Kill Bill vol2 DVD, I tried playing this on the Toshiba SD-V592 via HDMI, but the green tint was horrible , the blacks were dark green. I replaced the DVD player with a different one via component and it looked much better, but still have green tints on a lot of scenes. The scene where Bill visits his brother out in the boonies, shows the hills with a green tint, and when you see the car over bills shoulder, the windshield is very green tinted.

I noticed the green push when the auto color balance setting was turned on. Once I turned it off things returned to normal. Hopefully this is the cause.

I took delivery of a 62725 on Sat.

There are smudges? on the screen... they look like fingerprints ... but they're on the inside and cannot be wiped off.

I also have the bright spot.

She's going back tomorrow.

jpaulr

A number of the models in stores now appear to have October or November builds dates.

The one I saw with the dead pixel had a November build date and the one in my house now with the irregularity in the lower right hand corner has an October build date.

Do you know what the build date is for yours?

Nov 2004.

I bought it from the Big Screen Store in Westminster, Maryland.

Some of these out of box failures seem like the kinds of things that have their roots in sloppy workmanship and poor to non-existent Quality Assurance and frankly indicative of a complete lack of concern. I am fully aware of the kinds of hurdles that face a supplier using contract manufactures. I am sure there is quite a bit of that in this industry. That said these seem like the kinds of failures that occur when there is no management intervention and control what-so-ever.

I don't have any smudges on the inside of the screen but I have seen just about everything else and these more recent occurrences are from build dates within the last 30-60 days, very disconcerting and far below the standard I would have expected from Mits.

I wonder who the General Manager is for this devision. Frankly this is performance that I would have expected from an absolute fly by night, bottom of the barrel provider. Regardless of whether or not I keep this display or even replace it with another Mits, I am not sure that my expectations for this supplier will ever be what they once were. I have owned their product in the past and just have not had much opportunity to buy it since replacing a VCR a few years ago. I am at this point stunned beyond belief at this level of performance at least from this particular division.

Amen. I am very annoyed too.

Originally posted by jBeach
Here's a link to an 895H review that mentions the trick I referred to. The review is for a 95H, but I assumed that an 85H would perform similarly. Skip to the second page for the trick I was talking about.

url removed because I'm not allowed....... -X


I have BrightHouse cable and plan to connect it to the 85H with a direct S-Video connection from my cable set top box to the 85H.

I've heard that some people have trouble downloading the electronic TV guide when using an 85H. Does yours download the TV guide?

-john


In that review the guy's taking the output from an HD receiver DVR as the input to the Panny, which strikes me as strange. Why use a DVR to record the output of a DVR? I think the point was to try to record HD and/or 16:9 using the first DVR only as the tuner. Since the Mits has a tuner you could use video out (composite only!), but I don't know if you'd get 16:9, since that tweak is on the receiver side of things. I have no idea what your cable box would be able to do.

So, I just noticed that - composite only out on the Mits. That's crap.

I don't have any smudges on the inside of the screen but I have seen just about everything else and these more recent occurrences are from build dates within the last 30-60 days, very disconcerting and far below the standard I would have expected from Mits. FWIW, I wonder if what is happening to the automotive side of Mitsubishi is spillling over into all their other divisions? In case others might not know, the auto side almost went belly up! At least here in the USA, but rumors had it all over the world. As it is now, here in So Cal, many dealers are closing down. One big item, was that Mitsu was covering up a ton of warranty issues, going so far as to illegal activities. So if there is a major shake up going on, that could be one reason for the lack of quality (caring even) in their TV's.

Originally posted by WRX_Rocky
FWIW, I wonder if what is happening to the automotive side of Mitsubishi is spillling over into all their other divisions? In case others might not know, the auto side almost went belly up! At least here in the USA, but rumors had it all over the world. As it is now, here in So Cal, many dealers are closing down. One big item, was that Mitsu was covering up a ton of warranty issues, going so far as to illegal activities. So if there is a major shake up going on, that could be one reason for the lack of quality (caring even) in their TV's.

Hmmm, interesting. I heard that Mitsubishi cars (at least as of late) have gotten poor reviews ratings.

WRX_Rocky, if you don't mind me asking where did you buy your JVC just out of curiousity.


-- Matthew (So. Cal)

Originally posted by jnug
So finally took delivery of a 725 today:

No bright spot........Be still my heart
No dead pixels.......will wonders never cease
No tilt.......yes I am a good person after all!!!

But then what is that down at the very bottom of the screen? I notice that right at the bottom right hand corner as you face the display it is like someone stuck a piece of paper or something on the screen or over the light engine because there is a vary shallow hump of a black shape that extends into the corner horizontally and is about an inch long and about 3/16 of an inch tall at its peak. It does not move when the image moves it does nothing but sit there and tick me off!!

So they are coming back to replace the set with another. More drama.

That is what I am not liking about this experience. There is just too much drama for what should be a pretty straightforward purchasing experience. I can't get out of the store or past the first day without some drama.

You guys have any idea what the heck that is?

In the bright spot thread. After his le was replaced, he had something on the screen that sounds like what you're seeing. Turned out to be a piece of foam that was in the light path to the screen. If all else is perfect with the set, you might consider having this issue corrected. But I know most people don't want anyone messing with their brand new $4k toy.

Originally posted by WRX_Rocky
Well, I decided not to get a DLP at all, and just bought the JVC HD-ILA. But it won't be here untill the 23rd :( Will see how that goes . . . . . .

I think it's a shame that people are being scared away from this TV because of some of the problems noted here. I have a great deal of sympathy for those with the problems and hope that Mits will address them as well as they have other problems in the past. At the same time, there are a number of us here who have had extremely positive experiences with the TV and Mits service. All of this is just to say remember to put this all into context when you're trying to make your decision.

When I started researching TVs here I was initially scared into indecision based on the number of choices. Then I was scared into indecision based on the number of issues and problems that ALL of the options have (a good look through the threads can turn up significant problems on each and every HDTV out there). Then I realized that as useful as these data points were (particularly in helping me keep an eye open for potential problems), people were more prone to post problems than the fact that they were happily enjoying their new TVs on a day-to-day basis. As a result, I picked the Mits DLP due to my perception of the PQ and the experiences friends of mine (and many here) have had with Mits service.

In the end, I'd say pick what's best for your situation and that looks best to you; make sure the place you buy from has a good return policy in case the TV doesn't look as good once you get it home with your own AV sources; and get a good extended warranty because TVs are much more like computers these days than appliances and even Consumer Reports has now admitted that extended warranties are worthwhile on this type of purchase.

Just wanted to say that. Still fully supportive of those trying to get their problems resolved with Mits, but wanted to be sure that others who are researching like I was aren't scared away unneccessarily.

HD2+ ??

Thanks in advance, probobly an ignorant question. I just can't seem to find the answer scrolling through the 1700 messages on this thread.

Originally posted by fivespeed
HD2+ ??

Thanks in advance, probobly an ignorant question. I just can't seem to find the answer scrolling through the 1700 messages on this thread.


Yes. HD2+

The genius salesguy at GG I spoke with last night indicated that only the xx825 used the HD2+ and that xx725 used HD2. Now, if only I could find a deal on one....

Now, if only I could find a deal on one....

Got a GREAT deal on my 62725 at Magnolia Hi Fi.

I got a great deal at American TV and appliance - (midwestern chain)

I for one am extremely happy. No problems at all.

I just wanted to say thanks to everyone on these forums. I been browsing for over 7 months on these forums trying to get educated in what to look for when been buying a TV.

That being said, a little over 2 weeks ago I purchased the Mitsubishi 52725 from Tweeter. After countless visits and hours at BB, CC, and Tweeter. I really felt that Mitsubishi had best picture quality.

When I received my TV I was thrilled. I didn't have any of the known issues that I read on these forums. No tilt, no annoying fan noise, no green halo, no white cloud effect. And I couldn't be happier. Well 8 days after having the set in my home, my TV wouldn't turn on one morning, and the red light under the lamp was solid. I reset the system and it came on only to die a few minutes later. I called Tweeter, and they ended up exchanging the lamp with one in the store until the new one arrived.

It was a minor inconvenience, but a good solution minimal down town on my end. I get back home with the lamp and as put the lamp back in I hear something clink. Now I didn't push it all the way in or use a lot of pressure. When I looked the lamp outlet where the lamp plugs into was missing. It came loose, and I was finally able to to see, but couldn't reach it to put it back where it belonged. I didn't want to open the back to put it back in place and take the chance t void the warranty. I called Tweeter again, and they had replaced the TV the next Day.

I get the second TV I get it all hooked up and everything seems OK, but only after 5 minutes of viewing as I had to go to work. I would do some more inspecting when I got home.

There are a few problems at least to me with the second set.

First the picture quality isn't the same as the first one even with the same connections and same settings which is really weird, Family and G/f think it isn't as sharp either. I thought it might be my Dish, but after checking signal strengths I am getting 117 signal strength on my dish receiver 811. Which is outstanding, normally i only get like 105.

Second I didn't notice any fan noise at all with the 1st set. I was really listening for it the first few days, but only heard it when it booted up, or stand right by it like a foot away. The second TV is much more noticeable I can actually hear it a room away. At first thought it was my computer because I left my computer on all day Friday, and when I shut it off Saturday I realized it was not the computer, it was the TV. I ended up watching TV most of Saturday to make sure everything was okay. But during all the silent scenes in movies, i would hear the fan. I wasn't listening for it but i would notice it. I thought it was just me, but everyone who watched the first one notices the difference. So maybe the debate that people say there isn't a problem, maybe there are 725's out there that are louder than most?

Third there is small chip on the bottom right of my anti glare screen. Only noticed it when I was wiping down the screen this morning.

Forth the lamp light as of yesterday blinks yellow when i shut it off. I checked the lamp door, and I know its secure. I am thinking this one is going to shut off to.

I am not sure if it is from a different plant or what. I checked to see when this TV was made, it was made in November, and the first one was made in October. I might take another shot on a 3rd Mitsubishi, but what are the odds that it is a fluke that i got 2 bad sets in a row?

Anyway I thought I share my story for potential buyers. its a big investment, and I am not bashing Mitsubishi or trying scare away anyone. I am sure there are tons of happy owners.

I will keep you guys updated...

I was wondering if someone could help me out with an error message I receive when switching inputs on my 52725, usually followed by one or another of my components not accepting information from the WD-52725 remote.

The error message is 'Please Reset the Remote to netcommand mode', unfortunately I can't find any information anywhere about how to do this, and what the error message is telling me (or what I did to cause it to appear).

Can anyone chime in and help me make heads, or tails of this and how to make it so it doesn't happen?

Thanks,

WRX_Rocky, if you don't mind me asking where did you buy your JVC just out of curiousity. I bought it at the local Best Buy. Got it for a pretty decent price too. Cheaper than both the 725 or 825 too.

In all honesty, I was really sold on getting a plasma! To me, they look the best. But, when it dies, its just an expensive boat anchor. But on the bright side, with the HD-ILA, I also got the Dennon 2805, Dennon 2910, the new DirecTV TIVO HD unit, Pioneer 225 DVR, Panamax 5100, and cables for less than any of the plasmas alone that I was looking at! So guess I am a happy camper!

Originally posted by jsup5
I was wondering if someone could help me out with an error message I receive when switching inputs on my 52725, usually followed by one or another of my components not accepting information from the WD-52725 remote.

The error message is 'Please Reset the Remote to netcommand mode', unfortunately I can't find any information anywhere about how to do this, and what the error message is telling me (or what I did to cause it to appear).

Can anyone chime in and help me make heads, or tails of this and how to make it so it doesn't happen?

Thanks,

I've seen that error message when using one of the "TV only" buttons, and my wife leaves the slider set to DVD or something else (which she really doesn't need to do).

To actually reset it to NetCommand mode, point the remote away from the TV, hold the power button, and press 9-3-5....instructions also on the back of the remote.

Does anyone know anything about Mitsubishi's new software - 2604.04 (old .02) for the 52725? I had my set for three months and is great! Don't want to screw it up by putting in new software.
Occasionally I receive on turn on the message "Has lamp been replaced - press enter for yes or cancel for no" I press cancel of course. They said the new software fixes this.

Anyone else get this message?

There has been no mention of version .04 of the firmware. There was a post earlier saying that someone heard version .04 would be out after Thanksgiving. No confirmation of that though. Currently, .03 is the latest.

The DLP Rainbow/fatigue issue got another one! I was thrilled with this set until just recently and then the eye strain just became unbearable. I took the 725 back last night and will be getting a Sony XS995 to replace it.

The strange thing is I can't see them in the store, just at home. The screen door effect is much more acceptable than not being able to watch the tv because of severe head aches.

Originally posted by jsup5
I was wondering if someone could help me out with an error message I receive when switching inputs on my 52725, usually followed by one or another of my components not accepting information from the WD-52725 remote.

The error message is 'Please Reset the Remote to netcommand mode', unfortunately I can't find any information anywhere about how to do this, and what the error message is telling me (or what I did to cause it to appear).

Can anyone chime in and help me make heads, or tails of this and how to make it so it doesn't happen?

Thanks,

I believe it is a bogus error message. Unlike boris, I never change the remote function from tv. Yet, I still get this error randomly. I usually just hit home, nothing fancy to 'reset' it to netcommand mode. I recently moved all my tv functions to another remote, and I'm curioius to see if I continue to get this error. So far, nothing yet. It's also interesting to see how quickly the new remote can do macro functions for the tv (like turning off the tv speakers). Since the mits remote acted rather erratic at times, I didn't know if the tv or remote were to blame. Looks like the remote is a bigger culprit, though volume control is still sluggish with the new remote.

Originally posted by the crane
The DLP Rainbow/fatigue issue got another one! I was thrilled with this set until just recently and then the eye strain just became unbearable. I took the 725 back last night and will be getting a Sony XS995 to replace it.

The strange thing is I can't see them in the store, just at home. The screen door effect is much more acceptable than not being able to watch the tv because of severe head aches.

Sorry to hear that...I do see many more rainbows now than I did, but so far no eyestrain or headaches, and it is still when looking away from the set quickly or on some lesser quality SD stuff, from time to time.

There sure isn't any reason to keep a set that you can't enjoy...good luck with the Sony!

-Randy

Originally posted by Robmetal

Second I didn't notice any fan noise at all with the 1st set. I was really listening for it the first few days, but only heard it when it booted up, or stand right by it like a foot away. The second TV is much more noticeable I can actually hear it a room away. At first thought it was my computer because I left my computer on all day Friday, and when I shut it off Saturday I realized it was not the computer, it was the TV. I ended up watching TV most of Saturday to make sure everything was okay. But during all the silent scenes in movies, i would hear the fan. I wasn't listening for it but i would notice it. I thought it was just me, but everyone who watched the first one notices the difference. So maybe the debate that people say there isn't a problem, maybe there are 725's out there that are louder than most?



I'm beginning to wonder is it's actual differences in color wheel noise levels. To me, it isn't that the set is particularly loud. It's simply the frequency of the noise that offensive. My 'always on' fan is audible too, but its lower tone is quickly masked by higher frequency ambient noise. The noise that comes on with the tv pic is much higher frequency, and is easily heard into the other room.

Originally posted by bigz
Does anyone know anything about Mitsubishi's new software - 2604.04 (old .02) for the 52725? I had my set for three months and is great! Don't want to screw it up by putting in new software.
Occasionally I receive on turn on the message "Has lamp been replaced - press enter for yes or cancel for no" I press cancel of course. They said the new software fixes this.

Anyone else get this message?

I'd get that message occasionally when I had version 4.02 loaded. I upgraded to version 4.03 about 6 weeks ago and haven't seen that message since. I recommend you call Mits and get it.

Here at Circuit City Montebello (customer service here SUCKS!). Not TV shopping (besides they don't carry Mits). Just came in to get the new Family Guy DVD. I'm depressed looking at all these TV's. I still want a Mits DLP, BUT WAITING! ON MITS TO MAKE A STATEMENT IN REGARDS TO THE B.S. ISSUE. I'm in a different situation then you guys. My parents don't know I'm going to buy the TV. And if I buy it, and it does have the B.S. issue, I will definitely return it without any hesitation. So what I'm trying to say is I can't chance it buying right now and then having to return it, and then my parents threatining to throw me out of the house if I bring one home again. Well, anyways, thanks for listening to me.

Laterz,

Matthew

Well, still not real happy with the picture quality as related to green tint, but haven't got DVE or anything to try an make some adjustments.
I have found something that is probably adding to my frustrations, it seems like the color balance is going back to "auto" when i turn my set off. The check mark is still gone but it seems to be working like it is on.
I can go into the setup screen , hit the check to turn it on and then off and it will then use my custom PerfectColor choices. I don't know if this is across devices or not.

Also now whenever I see green, i'm not quite sure if it's supposed to be there or not.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Robmetal

Second I didn't notice any fan noise at all with the 1st set. I was really listening for it the first few days, but only heard it when it booted up, or stand right by it like a foot away. The second TV is much more noticeable I can actually hear it a room away. At first thought it was my computer because I left my computer on all day Friday, and when I shut it off Saturday I realized it was not the computer, it was the TV. I ended up watching TV most of Saturday to make sure everything was okay. But during all the silent scenes in movies, i would hear the fan. I wasn't listening for it but i would notice it. I thought it was just me, but everyone who watched the first one notices the difference. So maybe the debate that people say there isn't a problem, maybe there are 725's out there that are louder than most?

Robmetal,
I encountered the exact same issue as you. Had my first 52725 and never really noticed the fan at all but the screen had a large dead spot on it. I had the set replaced and now I notice the fan noise. I called Mits and they are sending out an authorized repair guy to check it out. I'm a little concerned about having someone mess with the TV at all but will keep you posted.

Originally posted by delar
I'd get that message occasionally when I had version 4.02 loaded. I upgraded to version 4.03 about 6 weeks ago and haven't seen that message since. I recommend you call Mits and get it.

I've got the 4.03 software (original install) and the lamp message has been appearing upon power up of my 62725 a lot more frequently in the last week. My candy stripes haven't returned (2 encounters so far).

Another interesting problem I have is that when CBS is broadcasting in Dolby 5.1, a constant popping noise is emitted from the right surround speaker (this is using the TV tuner with digital audio connected to my AVR). No other channels (when broadcasting in 5.1) have this popping noise. I am about to call our local CBS station (Twin Cities, MN) to see if it could be them.

Finally, for some reason ABC isn't remapping (digital is broadcast on channel 50 and should be remapped to 5.1). It did the first time I set the tuner up, but I didn't pick up the PBS digital channel. I've found that in order to pick up PBS digital (channel 34 remapped to 2.1), I have to uncheck the "prefer digital channels" selection before scanning for channels. One thing I haven't done is trying Antenna Input 2 to compare.

I'm hoping that the new release of software will fix the tuning problems.

Originally posted by jpaulr
I took delivery of a 62725 on Sat.

There are smudges? on the screen... they look like fingerprints ... but they're on the inside and cannot be wiped off.

I also have the bright spot.

She's going back tomorrow.

Easy enough to have cleaned by a service call. I had a peice of plastic and spme smudges. Tech cleaned them and I'm happy as a clam with my 52725.

Originally posted by paudemge
Well, still not real happy with the picture quality as related to green tint, but haven't got DVE or anything to try an make some adjustments.

Also now whenever I see green, i'm not quite sure if it's supposed to be there or not.

I had the green tint problem, but I followed the recommendations made here in changing the color settings and the problem went away. No more green tint.

Well, the green tint isn't nearly as bad using the perfect color settings suggest here, although as I mentioned the auto flag doesn't seem to 'stick'.
I'm also i bit concerned that you can't use the auto flag, and the color settings that work seem to be very far off from factory settings.
I just got the DVE dvd and am trying to work through using it, i'm not having much luck yet, I think i'm to impatient for the DVE dvd, there seems to be much talking to get to each section.

Originally posted by DBoucher

Finally, for some reason ABC isn't remapping (digital is broadcast on channel 50 and should be remapped to 5.1). It did the first time I set the tuner up, but I didn't pick up the PBS digital channel. I've found that in order to pick up PBS digital (channel 34 remapped to 2.1), I have to uncheck the "prefer digital channels" selection before scanning for channels. One thing I haven't done is trying Antenna Input 2 to compare.

I'm hoping that the new release of software will fix the tuning problems.

This is interesting. Down here in the DFW area, there are two of us having problems getting our NBC digital (41) to get re-mapped to 5-1. Now it does appear to be a firmware issue of sorts, since you're seeing something similar with a different broadcaster. Interestingly, for me, it ended up remapping itself long after I did the channel scan.

I have been in contact with a Comcast engineer regarding issues with recording cablecard over firewire to a recording device such as a DVCR. I have a Mitsubishi HD2000U DVCR connected to my 725 DLP. I have not been able to record anything from the cablecard to the DVCR since I always get a copy protection error. I emailed my question to a comcast engineer I know and he said that the cablecard may possibly have an additional layer of encryption called VCPS (Video Content Protection System) that must be licensed from Philips. Basically, if the Mitsubishi cablecard implementation does not have VCPS, that may indicate the problem. I will contact Mitsubishi about this, but I doubt I will get any informative response. Anyone know of anything else regarding this issue? More info on VCPS?

I just got a new TV to replace the one I had pixelation problems with. In the service menu, it shows 90 hours on the TV and then 2 hours on the first lamp readout (I've had it on 2 hours now) and the 4th lamp readout says 35 hours. Is this a brand new TV or did Ultimate Electronics bring me one that someone else returned? It looked brand new with the packaging in place off the truck, etc. How do you interpret the service menu readouts regarding hours on the TV and lamp? Any help would be appreciated....Thanks! Where do I find the build date of this set?

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
I have been in contact with a Comcast engineer regarding issues with recording cablecard over firewire to a recording device such as a DVCR. I have a Mitsubishi HD2000U DVCR connected to my 725 DLP. I have not been able to record anything from the cablecard to the DVCR since I always get a copy protection error. I emailed my question to a comcast engineer I know and he said that the cablecard may possibly have an additional layer of encryption called VCPS (Video Content Protection System) that must be licensed from Philips. Basically, if the Mitsubishi cablecard implementation does not have VCPS, that may indicate the problem. I will contact Mitsubishi about this, but I doubt I will get any informative response. Anyone know of anything else regarding this issue? More info on VCPS?

I haven't heard of VCPS myself. I only assumed that the problem was related to my SA CableCARD, but since you use a Motorola CC, it begins to make some sense.

On second thought, it doesn't make much sense. Why have an additional layer of encryption when 5c flagging, a solid form of copy protection in itself, is being implemented. Or is VCPS designed to prevent unauthorized *reception* of cable channels.

Sigh, another acronym.

Yesterday, I flipped to ESPN-HD, and my picture was broken up into a pretty mosaic pattern (that's a football player, btw), with each block about 1 inch wide. It went away when I changed the channel, but I managed to take a picture before. I also had the "Candystripe" pattern a few times in the past.

Anyone else seen this?

Originally posted by delar
I haven't heard of VCPS myself. I only assumed that the problem was related to my SA CableCARD, but since you use a Motorola CC, it begins to make some sense.

On second thought, it doesn't make much sense. Why have an additional layer of encryption when 5c flagging, a solid form of copy protection in itself, is being implemented. Or is VCPS designed to prevent unauthorized *reception* of cable channels.

Sigh, another acronym.

Well, I really don't know. The person who I contacted was a Comcast engineer, but I don't know how valid anything he said was. I'll do some more poking around...

Originally posted by 2left
Yesterday, I flipped to ESPN-HD, and my picture was broken up into a pretty mosaic pattern (that's a football player, btw), with each block about 1 inch wide. It went away when I changed the channel, but I managed to take a picture before. I also had the "Candystripe" pattern a few times in the past.

Anyone else seen this?

Yes, I had exactly the same thing happen last night watching OTA HD. I adjusted my antenna and it went away. My suspicion was that it has something to do with break up of the signal. Not sure how you'd get that on ESPN HD unless your connection is bad or your provider had some problems.

Originally posted by DCinDC
Yes, I had exactly the same thing happen last night watching OTA HD. I adjusted my antenna and it went away. My suspicion was that it has something to do with break up of the signal. Not sure how you'd get that on ESPN HD unless your connection is bad or your provider had some problems.

Ditto on the OTA thing. I usually see it when the reception is VERY weak.

Originally posted by garciab
This is interesting. Down here in the DFW area, there are two of us having problems getting our NBC digital (41) to get re-mapped to 5-1. Now it does appear to be a firmware issue of sorts, since you're seeing something similar with a different broadcaster. Interestingly, for me, it ended up remapping itself long after I did the channel scan.

I had exactly the same problem. Mits rep told me that it was related to how NBC coded info on their digital signal and not a firmware issue. Last night I noticed NBC was now re-mapped back to 5.1 all by itself. This was how it originally was set up but at one point got changed to 41, and now back to 5.1. Since all this happened w/o and firmware changes or me re-scanning I have to believe it was an issue with the broadcaster not the TV.

It must be how affiliates do their digital broadcasts, as above, DB had the same problem with 5-1 and an ABC affiliate. That led me to think it was something with the 5-1 slot. No big deal either way.

Originally posted by beemd
I just got a new TV to replace the one I had pixelation problems with. In the service menu, it shows 90 hours on the TV and then 2 hours on the first lamp readout (I've had it on 2 hours now) and the 4th lamp readout says 35 hours. Is this a brand new TV or did Ultimate Electronics bring me one that someone else returned? It looked brand new with the packaging in place off the truck, etc. How do you interpret the service menu readouts regarding hours on the TV and lamp? Any help would be appreciated....Thanks! Where do I find the build date of this set?

Be sure to tell us if the pixelization is less on your new tv. I notice it most watching CSI; it is really annoying in the dark scenes with background lights. Look for lots of gnats flying around the light source like I do. I will say, imo, my old 480i dvd player (Toshiba 2800, which is nothing special) looks as good as any HD material I've see. Well, the properly mastered movies anyway. Which is a complement to the deinterlace/scaler in this set, and a not so good testimonial on OTA HD material that I've watched so far.

Originally posted by DCinDC
I think it's a shame that people are being scared away from this TV because of some of the problems noted here.

I've been religiously following this thread as I get closer to making my final purchase decision on a 61"-62" HDTV. I too am getting cold feet after reading many of these posts on the various problems that people are having with the Mits xx725's.

Has anyone done some sort of poll/survey of readers here to get an idea of what the overall satisfaction is? I would think the tendency is to hear from those who are having problems. I'm hopeful that there are a lot of people who are really happy with their purchase. A question like "Are you satisfied with you xx725 purchase and would you recommend Mits to a friend?" would do the trick. Just curious....

Originally posted by jpenright
I've been religiously following this thread as I get closer to making my final purchase decision on a 61"-62" HDTV. I too am getting cold feet after reading many of these posts on the various problems that people are having with the Mits xx725's.

Has anyone done some sort of poll/survey of readers here to get an idea of what the overall satisfaction is? I would think the tendency is to hear from those who are having problems. I'm hopeful that there are a lot of people who are really happy with their purchase. A question like "Are you satisfied with you xx725 purchase and would you recommend Mits to a friend?" would do the trick. Just curious.... I've had the 62725 for 3 months now and am totally and completely satisfied. I have seen none of the problems described in this thread. I consider myself a real TV buff and have to say this is the best TV I've ever had. I also have an RCA F38310 and had a Mits 65807, and this picture blows away the 65807 and is at least equal to the direct view 38" F38310. Watching HD football on this set is an unbelievable experience. I highly recommend it.

Originally posted by jpenright
I would think the tendency is to hear from those who are having problems. I'm hopeful that there are a lot of people who are really happy with their purchase. A question like "Are you satisfied with you xx725 purchase and would you recommend Mits to a friend?" would do the trick. Just curious.... I think you'll find that maybe less than a few percent of TV owners actually frequent this forum. Nevertheless, this probably represents a statistically accurate sample. That said, if you're part of this few percent, you generally only post if you have a problem and are 1) seeking some help/solution and 2) confirming whether the issue is common & widespread or fairly unique. If the TV is popular and selling well, you will see a higher volume of postings here because all things being equal, there will be more people with issues.

Here is an extreme example to illustrate my point...
Mfgr A has sold a total of 100 units and he has a high 1% failure rate.
Mfgr B has sold a total of 100,000 units, and he has a 0.1% failure rate.

Mfgr A has 1 bad unit (1% failure rate)
Mfgr B has 100 bad units (1/10 of 1% failure rate)

You are better off buying from Mfgr B, because your probability of getting a bad unit is 10x greater from Mfgr A. Yet, Mfgr B might have 100x the number of complaints than Mfgr A, and a few percent of them will be posted here. So if you come here simply looking only at total volume of negatives/issues, you are not necessarily seeing an accurate picture.

That said, I am a 52525 owner and quite happy with my picture quality. Real HD looks absolutely stunning. DVDs look very good. SD material looks quite good, although it looked better on my old analog SD TV. I would buy it again, and I would recommend it to relatives and friends.

I have to agree with Benji. I have had my 52725 for about 3 months now and have experienced none of the problems mentioned here on the forum. It is the best looking picture of all the RP DLPs that I have viewed. Yes there have been problems, but I don't believe they are as widespread as you might think. Remember this is a pretty focused forum. I bet if we did a poll on the number of people with problems and the number of people without problems, the numbers would indicate most are happy with these sets and have no problems. Maybe it's time for a poll.....:)
But that's just my opinion.

Very well put HTBruceM. We were typing at the same time...........

Originally posted by HTBruceM
Here is an extreme example to illustrate my point...
Mfgr A has sold a total of 100 units and he has a high 1% failure rate.
Mfgr B has sold a total of 100,000 units, and he has a 0.1% failure rate.

Mfgr A has 1 bad unit (1% failure rate)
Mfgr B has 100 bad units (1/10 of 1% failure rate)

You are better off buying from Mfgr B, because your probability of getting a bad unit is 10x greater from Mfgr A. Yet, Mfgr B might have 100x the number of complaints than Mfgr A, and a few percent of them will be posted here. So if you come here simply looking only at total volume of negatives/issues, you are not necessarily seeing an accurate picture.

Are we going to be tested on this at a later date? :D

That said, I am a 52525 owner and quite happy with my picture quality. Real HD looks absolutely stunning. DVDs look very good. SD material looks quite good, although it looked better on my old analog SD TV. I would buy it again, and I would recommend it to relatives and friends.
I agree with this 100%.

Originally posted by jpenright
A question like "Are you satisfied with you xx725 purchase and would you recommend Mits to a friend?" would do the trick. Just curious....

Well, I would definitely say I am happy and have, in fact, recommended it to a friend. That said, I have experienced the candystripe pattern, the mosaic pattern, audio sync problems, audio dropoout, electronic popping sounds, remote and front panel lockup requiring reset, and I am unable to record using NetCommand. All the problems except the NetCommand problem can be temporarily fixed by changing channels or resetting, and Mits said they finally have a firmware upgrade for the 62725 (I currently have v.4.03) to address the audio problems, which I will receive next Monday. I have set up a service appointment to look at my NetCommand setup and Mits says the visit will be covered under warranty.

As I posted in another thread, tv's are now highly software dependent and utilize developing technologies. Software has bugs and crashes. Developing technologies have glitches. I don't expect a perfect dlp tv any more than I would expect a perfect computer. I post my problems to see how common they are and if anyone knows of fixes.

I love my set and think of it as the son I never had. My actual son, the one I did have, gives me a lot more problems and is not covered under warranty.

Originally posted by DCinDC
Yes, I had exactly the same thing happen last night watching OTA HD. I adjusted my antenna and it went away. My suspicion was that it has something to do with break up of the signal. Not sure how you'd get that on ESPN HD unless your connection is bad or your provider had some problems.

I have a CableCard, not OTA. I guess it could be something with the signal, but it seems odd that it went away when I changed channels.

Hey all,

I have a "all in one" remote (Home Theater Master MX-600) and have tried to place an IR extender on the front of the 725 (the all in one remote has both IR and RF signals so I don't have to aim the remote at the TV or be in the same room)...however it would seem that the IR Reciever for the TV is behind the actual screen...

Has anyone found a good place on the outside to stick an IR Blaster or do you have to remove the screen to get it inside the set itself?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

scottmd1us,

I have a 62725 and the MX-800. I played around with IR extender placement and finally found a position that has worked every time for 3 months. I literally held the extender in my hand about one half inch in front of the screen and moved it up, down, and over while pushing the remote until I located a good spot.

I currently have it vertically positioned at about one quarter inch or less from the bottom of the protective screen (it is ON the viewing screen); horizontally it is in the exact middle of the viewing screen. So it is actually on the viewing screen but does not interfere with watching the set at all.

Works every time.

Cool Strategist.....I did try it there this morning and found that to be the best spot, but it only gave me 50%...UNLESS I tilted it up....so instead of putting the sticky side to the screen...I put that pointing to the ground and it seemed to work....haven't "stuck" it there to try out....

I will play around with the positioning in the area you remcomond and see if that works better tonight...

I have the 52725 and there is a "mits" logo that I had to put it above....where about in the Mits. Logo (assuming you have one) did you find the best?




Thanks for the tip!

Originally posted by 2left
That said, I have experienced the candystripe pattern,

What's the candystripe pattern? I did an all forums search, but could not find an answer.

Originally posted by Tele-TV
What's the candystripe pattern? I did an all forums search, but could not find an answer.

Look at this post (a picture of the so-called candystripe pattern is attached):

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4581198#post4581198

Originally posted by spiff72
Look at this post (a picture of the so-called candystripe pattern is attached):

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4581198#post4581198

Thanks spiffy.

Was just checking out the JVC D-ILA thread for the first time.

QUESTION:

When I get my DLP, and a pixel/pixels goes bad, and the TV's no longer under warranty, appx. how much would it cost to repair the bad pixel(s), if its repairable at all (god [sure] I HOPE! they're). Thanks.

I just had my 52725 professionally calibrated. Holy CR*P! What an improvement. My calibrator was a specialist with Mits CRT's and had done some Samsung DLP's. Besides the gamma curve, gray scale, and color decoder correction; we decided to try a Neutral Density Filter to help the black level.

I did not have the tilt issue and the rest of my geometry was good. The 52725 grey scale was the worst he had ever seen. After calibration it tracked better than any of Samsung DLP's he had seen. He was actually very impressed with the 52725 after he was finished.

Even after using DVE to set my 52725 up, the difference was remarkable. Bottom line, if you have the chance, get your set professionally calibrated. There are some things you can't overcome without equipment and intricate knowledge of the service menu.

–Chris

P.S.– I highly recommend the Neutral Density Filter. Black level is very close to my CRT.

Replacement 62725 just delivered.

1/ no smudges on the inside of the screen
2/ no brightspot? - hard to tell for sure but I couldn't see it at all.

My faith has been restored, somewhat. The color seems a little off. . . I'm gonna have to search these forums for the proper color settings.

Someone suggested posting a review on CNET? I will get to that shortly.

As much as I hated to do it, I just couldn't overcome the fan noise and returned my 725. I had the service guy out to make sure the fan noise was normal and he confirmed it was. I just couldn't stand hearing the fan while the TV was on a lower volume or scene changes. I liked everything else about this TV, and hope they can do something to improve this issue. Don't think I'm going to buy another DLP or LCD TV right now, as it seems they all have a fan running while the TV is on. I'm afraid to buy one that sounds quiet like the 725 did in the store, only to get it home and have the same problem. Not sure where to go from here?

I would highly recommend Tweeter, they were great to deal with.

Does anyone know if the mirrors in these sets are glass or mylar? I just read that a mylar mirror should never be rubbed clean as it scratches easily. That is just what a Tech did to my mirrors and lens. Wondering if they have been damaged? Thanks

Originally posted by glgluxy
I just had my 52725 professionally calibrated.
........
P.S.– I highly recommend the Neutral Density Filter. Black level is very close to my CRT.

This sounds great but it has me wondering how this works.
Can someone please explain what the ND filter does to improve the black level?
Thanks

This might be a dumb question, but wanted to see if anyone is having the same situation as I am.

I am hooking up the WD-52725 to a Sony STR-DE925 (will eventually upgrade to another Amp when i finish my research) via the Digital Coax ouput on the back of the WD-52725 to the Sony via the Sony's Coax Digital DVD/LD input. I then connected a TWC-Houston SA 8300HD via HDMI to the WD-52725, but can only get audio from the SA 8300HD if I set the audio from the Television via the Televsion output (I get nothing if I set the audio from the Stereo output via Device > Audio > AV.

Does anyone have any clues why this is occuring? I have the V26 004.04 FW on the WD-52725, and it seems from what is happening here that the Coax Digital ouput from the television is not working correctly (I get.

I would appreciate any assistance anyone might be able to provide, and if I can clarify anything please let me know and I will attempt to do my best.

I was also wondering if the Digital (coax??) audio cable provided by Mitsubishi was sufficient to do what it was designed to do, or is it just a piece of junk?

Originally posted by jsup5
[snip]

I think I understand your problem....

AFAIK the digital coax audio out from the TV is only for digital audio decoded from the internal HD tuner. You probably know there is no audio transmitted over HDMI, so you'll have to run a digital coax (or optical) cable straight from your HDMI device to your Sony AVR (I do this with my Samsung 360 Sat. recvr. and Sony AVR) if you want digital audio, otherwise it will just be the analog audio from the TV.

Hope this helps.

Wow, the first sighting of the 004.04 software!!! I wonder what's in it?!?!

Originally posted by boristhedog
I think I understand your problem....

AFAIK the digital coax audio out from the TV is only for digital audio decoded from the internal HD tuner. You probably know there is no audio transmitted over HDMI, so you'll have to run a digital coax (or optical) cable straight from your HDMI device to your Sony AVR (I do this with my Samsung 360 Sat. recvr. and Sony AVR) if you want digital audio, otherwise it will just be the analog audio from the TV.

Hope this helps.

Wow, the first sighting of the 004.04 software!!! I wonder what's in it?!?!

I thought HDMI had audio. DVI does not.

Digital audio coax on Mits is an audio output for internal tuner and I had assumed HDMI (as a sort of pass-through). Not sure I understood the original post but looked like he might be using it as an audio input?

Not suggesting that anyone is really interested but I did tell folks here that I would be experimenting with running video through a video processor to the Mits 52725 to see what would happen.

I have got Comcast HD cable and a Motorola cable box/DVR. Frankly one thing that I am finally probably going to do is toss cable for Direct TV. HD over cable just does not get it done at least not compared to a sat signal.

That said, we have cable coming into the Motorola 6214. From there I have a DVI to HDMI connection direct to the 52725. I am also then taking a component video signal up into a digital Leeza. I also have an SDI moded DVD player and I am running that signal through the digital Leeza as well. The connection between the Leeza and the 52725 is RGBHV/VGA breakout at 1280/720 X 60 Hz.

I also own an HD Leeza but it is connected to a different display. So, I can only evaluate direct 480i DVD over component to the 52725 vs. an SDI input from the player to the Leeza and the subsequent RGBHV/VGA connection to the 52725 and SD component video out the Motorola cable box into the digital Leeza and again over the same RGBHV/VGA connection vs. a direct connection DVI to HDMI from the cable box to the 52725.

I can tell you that there is no comparison to the SD signal quality direct 480i into the Mits vs the use of what is frankly a rather dated video processor. The SD PQ coming off of the Leeza at 1280/720 X 60 Hz is so far superior to the PQ using the Mits scaling direct from the cable box even over its HDMI connection that there are no areas of measure that I can even say are close. In fact, if there is one reason this information might be worth having it is because external video processors are getting very reasonable these days. I do not think it would be hard to match the Leeza's performance for a lot less than its retail price was early in its product life cycle. A good many of us are less than satisfied with SD performance into our digital displays with cable being most unsatisfying. At least for this system I can report marked improvement in literally every area and an overall presentation that is quite remarkable. DVD performance is also much improved using an outboard scaler with this display.

Originally posted by DCinDC
I thought HDMI had audio. DVI does not.

Digital audio coax on Mits is an audio output for internal tuner and I had assumed HDMI (as a sort of pass-through). Not sure I understood the original post but looked like he might be using it as an audio input?

Yes the HDMI (hence the name High Definition "Multimedia" Interface) connection is capable of carrying the digital audio signal. This is why he can get sound from the speakers on the TV with that connection being used.

I think the question of whether the Coax output will act as a pass-through from the HDMI Input has been asked before. From the problem that he is having, it would seem that it doesn't work as a pass through - only as an output for the internal tuner.

It does seem that the only way to get it to work is to use a digital output direct from the HDMI source device to the AVR. Sad, since this will use up another digital input on the AVR.

Originally posted by spiff72
Yes the HDMI (hence the name High Definition "Multimedia" Interface) connection is capable of carrying the digital audio signal. This is why he can get sound from the speakers on the TV with that connection being used.
[snip].

Ugh. Right....I mis-spoke. Since my "HDMI" connection is actually a DVI-HDMI cable (pin-compatible for video), I had it my head the wrong way since I don't get audio from my "HDMI" (really DVI) input.

Sorry for the confusion.....lack of sleep with 3 week old in the house.

Originally posted by boristhedog
I think I understand your problem....

AFAIK the digital coax audio out from the TV is only for digital audio decoded from the internal HD tuner. You probably know there is no audio transmitted over HDMI, so you'll have to run a digital coax (or optical) cable straight from your HDMI device to your Sony AVR (I do this with my Samsung 360 Sat. recvr. and Sony AVR) if you want digital audio, otherwise it will just be the analog audio from the TV.

Hope this helps.

Wow, the first sighting of the 004.04 software!!! I wonder what's in it?!?!

Need to make a correction here, and sorry to burst everyone's bubble :( I fat fingered the firmware, and instead of being 004.04, it in actuality is 004.03 :(

I followed up, and read a little into the SA 8300HD manual and it mentioned something about if the TV did not do Dolby Digital decoding you would not hear anything unless you hooked up the STB directly to a DD decoding receiver. I couldn't locate anywhere in the WD-52725 manual if the set has a Dolby Digital Decoder built in, can anyone answer this question?

Originally posted by boristhedog

Sorry for the confusion.....lack of sleep with 3 week old in the house.

Congrats! Mine is 3 months this week and the sleep thing gets better.

Funny how babies and big screen TVs go together...

Originally posted by jsup5
Need to make a correction here, and sorry to burst everyone's bubble :( I fat fingered the firmware, and instead of being 004.04, it in actuality is 004.03 :(

I followed up, and read a little into the SA 8300HD manual and it mentioned something about if the TV did not do Dolby Digital decoding you would not hear anything unless you hooked up the STB directly to a DD decoding receiver. I couldn't locate anywhere in the WD-52725 manual if the set has a Dolby Digital Decoder built in, can anyone answer this question?

One would hope that the TV would just provide a pass-thru of HDMI digital audio, you don't want to decode Dolby Digital in the TV, it would need to be re-encoded out to the receiver which would cause lip-sync issues due to the processing delay.

Does HDMI also pass analog audio signals?

I'm on my 2nd 62725.

After finally understanding the different widescreen ratios and accepting of the fact that any movie not shot in 1.85 will have wide bars, I sat down to watch Lord of the Rings II.

Had the occasional "rainbow"? issue where things would flash red or pixelate really bad during the fast action scenes, but I knew that would be an issue going in.

The black bars running across the top of the TV are not even. I'm gaining 1/2" going from left to right.

I stopped by the dealer's store and asked about the adjustment - he said it was the DVD and not the TV.

Last night we watched "Galaxy Quest" - bars were not even, again, and again were gaining left to right.

Is this normal? Is there an adjustment I can make or do I have to make a service call?

Any links to previous posts are appreciated. I tried searching but wasn't finding any good solutions (and again, I'm not sure what I have is the 'tilt' issue.)

That sounds like the tilt issue to me.

I have yet to see a post that talks about a cure. I suspect that this is a purely mechanical issue with something being skewed internally that causes the image to then be skewed.

I saw a 52725 ON DISPLAY at the place where I bought mine that was tilted about an inch with the image lower on the left as you faced the screen than it was on the right. That is the worse that I have seen so far.

I suspect that someone needs to look at it unless you are still within your return period and want to return it.

I for one and a bit more concerned about this tilt thing than lets say some image blocking (like mine has) since we have at least heard about cures for the image blocking. Again I have not read a post like "had this tilted image issue and the service guy came out and did this and that and it is all better now".

The sales guy who said it was in the DVD should be shot at sunrise. Well I guess that might be a little sever but I am getting a little tired of hearing these asinine initial responses from dealers when we call to report these issues. That guy had no clue and would have been better off saying so.

I THOUGHT some people who had the title issue, got it fixed?

Originally posted by jnug
That sounds like the tilt issue to me.
I have yet to see a post that talks about a cure. I suspect that this is a purely mechanical issue with something being skewed internally that causes the image to then be skewed.


Actually, there's a whole thread on this with detailed instructions on how to fix it yourself or explain to the tech. Photos and everything. Sorry, don't have time to link right now, but it is there if you do a search. Something like the Tilt Blame Game as a title.

The thread for the tilt issue can be found here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?threadid=439889&perpage=20&highlight=tilt&pagenumber=1

I've got a couple of questions I was hoping someone might be able to answer.

1) I'm using a progressive scan dvd player (an inexpensive panasonic) with component video cables. I know the progressive scan is enabled but my tv still indicates that the signal is 480i instead of 480p. Anyone know how to fix this?

2) I can only get the picture freeze function (the pause button) to work with the coaxial input. Can some of you check to see if you can make the picture freeze using s-video or component video or hdmi?

Thanks

Originally posted by mench
I've got a couple of questions I was hoping someone might be able to answer.

1) I'm using a progressive scan dvd player (an inexpensive panasonic) with component video cables. I know the progressive scan is enabled but my tv still indicates that the signal is 480i instead of 480p. Anyone know how to fix this?

2) I can only get the picture freeze function (the pause button) to work with the coaxial input. Can some of you check to see if you can make the picture freeze using s-video or component video or hdmi?

Thanks

1) Are you certain that it is set to progressive? Mine indicates the correct 480i/480p if I switch the progressive scan on and off on my sony dvd recorder.

2) Is it possible that the pause button is assigned to something else via Netcommand? I use Netcommand here, so the pause button is assigned to "pause" my tivo, dvd, and my only one that doesn't have it assigned is the component video feed from my Dish 811. It DOES freeze the picture on that one.

spiff 72,

Thanks for your speedy reply. Yes, I checked the setting on the dvd player several times and it shows the progressive scan is enabled. As for the pause function, I'm not using net command at all. I can't figure out why it works only for the antenna inputs and not the others.

Spiff 72,

Turns out I didn't have the progressive scan on after all. This pany requires that I do two things to activate. Thanks for your help on that. Still troubled that I can't freeze the picture though.

Originally posted by mench
spiff 72,

Thanks for your speedy reply. Yes, I checked the setting on the dvd player several times and it shows the progressive scan is enabled. As for the pause function, I'm not using net command at all. I can't figure out why it works only for the antenna inputs and not the others.

Are you sure you have the option for progressive scan via component connection? I thought HDCP content had to go over the DVI connection. there are some players that cheat and use component out, but I doubt you have one of those. Hook up the DVI cable and go from there. What's that - you don't have the cable? or the special HDMI to DVI adapter? Looks like your a victim of the Audio/Visual sales gimicks going on today. ;)

It might be important to realize that your TV has a built in de-intelacer which converts the signal to 720p (or whatever the "actual" 768ish number is). So, if your DVD player is really that crappy, it could be doing a worse job of "upconverting" than your TV does.

Hi,

I'm having trouble getting my sir-ts360 to work with the dvi/hdmi connection on my 62525. Is there something you need to set on the tuner to enable the DVI output? When I choose MONLINK in Netcommander I only get a blue screen....

The guys at BestBuy claim I need to call direct tv and ask for a download, this sounded like a best guess to me, but haven't tried it yet.

Anybody run into this?

Thanks,

Joe

You have to select the DVI out on your TS-360-- there is a square silver button near the display to toggle thru -- i.e. component, DVi etc.

Hi Bigz,

You were right, I selected the output and it did make a difference, however the results still are not right. At first the screen was out of synch, and when I switched devices/cycled power the whole TV started to cut in and out (maybe this is the "reset problem"?).

Anyway I switched back to component inputs and the tv works fine.

Anybody have any suggestions on what I might be doing wrong, or if my dvi/hdmi cable might be bad?

Joe

Comcast came by on Sat. to install my cablecard. After 2 hours, he managed to freeze my set and only a system reset managed to bring my set back to original working order. He thinks its a firmware issue. Is this something that Mits handles automatically or do I need to call the store I bought it from.
Does anybody notice the slight bending of the vertical black bars as it reaches the bottom of the screen when watching something that is in 4:3 aspect ratio? This is my 2nd set and the 1st was much worse. This new set isn't bad and I notice the same problem with the store display so I accept it as inherent with the set and it doesn't really bother me although I do look for it.

Originally posted by jsup5
Need to make a correction here, and sorry to burst everyone's bubble :( I fat fingered the firmware, and instead of being 004.04, it in actuality is 004.03 :(


What does it mean to "fat finger" the firmware? I just installed the firmware upgrade I received from Mits yesterday, and my setup screen now shows v. 4.04.

Originally posted by 2left
What does it mean to "fat finger" the firmware? I just installed the firmware upgrade I received from Mits yesterday, and my setup screen now shows v. 4.04.

My finger is so fat that I accidentally hit the 4 when I meant to hit the 3 :p on the keyboard. Actually I looked at the fw and mine still says .03 :(

Like others, I wonder what .04 will do new for the set :)

So....there is NOW a 4.04 firmware version out there...Keep us updated 2Left

Just received update version .04 for my 62525. So far, no more freezes, but still slow channel change on digital OTA built-in tuner. Still drops and adds channels and finds phantom channels overnight such as "-2", which causes Channel View to grey out. Channel View furnishes no useful info anyway, so I have taken to using my D* receiver (RCA DTC-210) which gives me full channel guide info intermingled with satellite channels. The picture quality might be slightly better with the Mits built-in tuner, but the channel guide info, fast channel changes, and stable OTA channel list far outweigh the negligible difference in PQ. Besides, my wife loves the on-screen Caller ID with the DTC-210. Hooked up my PC to the VGA, and that works well with wireless keyboard and mouse. Viewed slide show of digital photos using SD card slot. Nice feature. In a nutshell, version .04 does not seem to solve any of the problems I had with the OTA tuner. Don't have cable, so can't speak to any of those problems. Still better PQ than I have seen on any other TV.

I am the proud owner of a 52525 Mitsu DLP now...quick question

I was reading recently about someone who had the Mitsu 52525 and was seeing a bright spot on their tv..kind of in the middle a little above the bottom of the TV. Well I noticed the other day, that after playing my XBOX I saw that bright spot on my TV as well. Now it is NOT there when I watch TV or when I cut my TV off, but I see it when I finish playing my XBOX and the screen is black (xbox is hooked up through component).

Is this normal?? Or is this something I should worry about?

Originally posted by igotgame

I see it when I finish playing my XBOX and the screen is black (xbox is hooked up through component).


How so? I have only seen two video output options for an X-box. One is the composite (yellow RCA), and the other is the S-video which you get from the extra "AV pack".

I thought I noticed a brighter spot in the middle of the display when I switched to a disconnected device (i.e. all black screen), but I used my jedi mind ability to make it go away. ;) Seriously though, no problems with a bright spot for me. Just loud fans is all.

I have a service call scheduled for this, but thought I might have a better chance asking here. I have a DVD Recorder, DVD Player, VCR and receiver hooked up and operable through NetCommand. When I press the record button on the Mits remote to activate NetCommand recording, however, no devices show up as available on the bottom half of the screen. On the top of the screen, all the devices in the little boxes are whited out.

What did I miss in the NetCommand setup?

Originally posted by technik
So....there is NOW a 4.04 firmware version out there...Keep us updated 2Left

Unfortunately, not much to report. They sent it to address my audio sync and dropoff problems. Right after I installed it I turned to PBS-HD . . . and there was no sound. As usual, a simple channel change brought the sound back. Doesn't bother me much as it only happens every few days. Hilarious that it happened right after the installation, though.

2left,

When you add a recorder to netcommand you have to add it as a "VCR" device type and later in the VCR device setup screens there is an option to specify if the VCR is going to be used as a recording device (page 45 of the manual). If you don't see this screen then Netcommand didn't recognize the device as a recorder.

Originally posted by jpenright
I've been religiously following this thread as I get closer to making my final purchase decision on a 61"-62" HDTV. I too am getting cold feet after reading many of these posts on the various problems that people are having with the Mits xx725's.

Has anyone done some sort of poll/survey of readers here to get an idea of what the overall satisfaction is? I would think the tendency is to hear from those who are having problems. I'm hopeful that there are a lot of people who are really happy with their purchase. A question like "Are you satisfied with you xx725 purchase and would you recommend Mits to a friend?" would do the trick. Just curious....


I have had my 52725 for a month and a half now and am still loving it. HD is great! DVD's look great and even SD via Comcast is pretty decent.

Originally posted by BB_Mike
How so? I have only seen two video output options for an X-box. One is the composite (yellow RCA), and the other is the S-video which you get from the extra "AV pack".l.

There is a component adapter available also, includes an optical-out for audio also. Can't remember what it's called. It cost about $20 two years ago when I bought mine.

Sorry for the worthless post, but I just spent 20 minutes describing my 62725 only to find out that the post didn't go through!!!

Originally posted by bigz
Does anyone know anything about Mitsubishi's new software - 2604.04 (old .02) for the 52725? I had my set for three months and is great! Don't want to screw it up by putting in new software.
Occasionally I receive on turn on the message "Has lamp been replaced - press enter for yes or cancel for no" I press cancel of course. They said the new software fixes this.

Anyone else get this message?

I just called Mitsubishi. The latest version of software is V26 004.04. However, .04 is to fix a "cable card" issue. Otherwise, if you are not using a "cable card" version V26 004.03 should be used.

By the way, the Mitsubishi phone number for product software upgrade is 866.252.4333.

OK, here it goes again, I just tried to post this and it failed, so if this shows up as a duplicate posting my apologies...

I received my Mitsubishi 62725 yesterday after many painful weeks of debating and analysis. Here are my impressions of the many issues that I have seen with the MITs.

1. Bright Spot: I am very happy to report that I do NOT seem to have the dreaded bright spot. In the evening I put on the "Finding Nemo" CD and turned to the "abyss" chapter, when the screen turns completely black, I paused the CD and searched for the bright spot, I did not see it. I hope this isn't like DLP rainbows where one can teach themselves to see it, but I did NOT see it.

2. Fan Noise: I could hear the fan when the TV volume was low, but I really don't think this will bother me.

3. Reflective Screen: I knew that these sets have very reflective screens, but I thought my room at home would make this a non-issue. I have very limited outside light entering the room and recessed ceiling lights. However, I was surprised that I could see reflections everywhere. It may be that I'm looking for this now, but I wonder? As you may imagine, this worse with daytime viewing. I'm not sure if this is going to bother me long term or not?

4. Tilt: Here is an issue that I will need to get fixed. The lower right hand of the display is 3/8" higher than the lower left hand. The upper right hand of the display is only 1/8" higher than the upper left? I thought this odd as I was expecting any tilt to be symmetrical. This irks me because if the set was tested before shipment they would have seen this.

5. Smudges: This irks me too. I have 5 smudges along the right hand of the display. The largest smudge is 1/8" in diameter. Once again, if tested prior to shipment, this would have been found (and corrected I hope). I understand that service can fix this, but I hate to have a brand new set with dirty components.

6. DLP: I must be more sensitive to DLPs than I thought. I could see plenty of rainbows and after about 1.5 hours of viewing I had a splitting head ache. I have friends at work who assure me that this will go away (one gets used to it), but I wonder about having family and friends over to watch TV only to send them home with splitting head aches. This could be the issue that sends the set back to the store...

7. Screen Size: I sit 12 feet from the set and I think the 62" was the correct size. The new set size will require an adjustment to get used to, our old set was a 4:3 36" CRT.

That's about it, I'll post more with any further developments.

RH in Corrales

However, .04 is to fix a "cable card" issue

What issue?

Yes the Xbox can be hooked up through component video using the advanced HD pack or monster component cables.

I am just curious as to why I see the bright spot after playing the xbox (it isn't very bright but I can see it), but I don't see it at all when watching regular TV or HDTV. I usually play at night so I power my TV off and goto bed. When I wake up in the morning and cut the TV on..the bright spot isn't there and its not there at any other time..except when I turn my xbox off after just playing. I don't know what would happen if I turned it off and watched TV for a bit to see if it would go away or not.

Is this something I should worry about because I have only had the TV a week?

Originally posted by igotgame

I am just curious as to why I see the bright spot after playing the xbox (it isn't very bright but I can see it),
[snip]
Is this something I should worry about because I have only had the TV a week?
In case you don't know, there's an entire thread devoted to what has become affectionately known as the B.S. Issue.
[URL=http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=467700[/URL]

As far as something to worry about....that depends on if you're happy with a defective TV. Some people are willing to live with it, some are not. Bottom line is that there are plenty of sets out there that don't have the bright spot, so if you are within your return period and do not want to have the bright spot, you need to deal with it now because Mitsubishi is not willing to fix this problem for everyone. Good luck.

I am just curious to if it is the Xbox causing the issue.

Because the spot never comes up when watching TV...I haven't tried a DVD yet on this TV so I am not sure about it.

The spot never stays on the screen..it is gone the following morning when I cut my TV on so I don't know how long it stays there...I just worry about a long range worsening problem of the spot if this continues.

I am planning to put my 62725 (if I ever can pull the trigger on one) into a custom built wood cabinet/entertainment center. I've read all of the issues that people have brought up with the fan noise, and I'm curious if anyone who has issues with the noise has their xx725 installed in a cabinet versus being on top of a stand. I'm hopeful that by having it surrounded on all sides would cut down on the noise that escapes into the surrounding room.

Has anyone had issues with fan noise with their xx725 in a built-in cabinet? Thanks.

jpe

Originally posted by jpenright
I am planning to put my 62725 (if I ever can pull the trigger on one) into a custom built wood cabinet/entertainment center. I've read all of the issues that people have brought up with the fan noise, and I'm curious if anyone who has issues with the noise has their xx725 installed in a cabinet versus being on top of a stand. I'm hopeful that by having it surrounded on all sides would cut down on the noise that escapes into the surrounding room.

Has anyone had issues with fan noise with their xx725 in a built-in cabinet? Thanks.

jpe


I built this with sides tight to the set and 2" space above for venting heat. Noise is minimal.

Here's one I haven't seen reported here before. An issue with my new Mits 52725 is that on some Dish channels, for example on 301 and 327 (there may be others, but not that I have seen), when displaying in 4:3 with either black or gray bars, there are annoying/distracting red and blue stripes that flicker up and down the right edge of the image where the image is bordered by the gray or black bar, about 1/2 " long horizontally, as if stacked up in a 1/2" wide vertical column on the right side, flickering and dancing up and down the edge. Any ideas what it is and how to make it stop?

Thanks!
__________________

Originally posted by Keyser Sose
What issue?

I was told it resolved problems with reception of high definition channels. At least that is what I was told by the Mits CSR.

Originally posted by jrsevy
I built this with sides tight to the set and 2" space above for venting heat. Noise is minimal.

Nice, I like the detail in the right corner.

igotgame,

Regarding your question on the bright spot, it appears that some Mits DLP's have a spot that is brighter than others. Those with a brighter spot see it not only when the whole screen is dark, but also when there is dark content in the area where the spot is and the rest of the screen has other content. For example, I had a TV with the bright spot and if a couple of guys in dark suites walked across the center of my screen you could see this cloudy white spot in the middle of their suites. Other owners have spots that are much lighter and appear to only be noticeable when the whole screen is dark. Mitsubishi is telling everyone that regardless if their spot is brighter or lighter that the issue is normal and that they won't do anything to fix it. If you have a TV that only exhibits the spot when you turn off your Xbox, and every other piece of dark scene movie content does not exhibit the spot, feel lucky.

You are one of the few that have not been ripped off by Mits claiming their TV has a perfect picture when some are clearly flawed.

Good luck.

I'm on my 2nd 62725.

The first had smudges inside the screen and a major league bright spot.

The second has no bright spot, however, I now have the following problems.

1/ TV cannot memorize channels without locking up. Ant 1, Ant 2, prefer digital NOT checked, and it locks up after memorizing the analog chnls (I have expanded basic cable.. no digital, no HDTV - Comcast. I called Mit - apparently 4.03 is buggy and 4.04 will fix this particular problem. They are sending a tech out to install (likely after xmas)

2/ Tilt - screen is gaining 5/8-3/4 of an inch across the screen when viewing widescreen content w/ black bars top / bottom. Again, tech is coming out to correct the geometry.

I submitted a review to CNET on the 62725 last week and it never posted. Apparently, I didn't meet CNET's criteria for a proper post. No idea why.

sbrown

does the spot get progressively worse over time or does it pretty much stay the same brightness level??

if it stays the same I can live with that

------ jpaulr ------

I too have smudges and tilt. I have not tried to memorize any channels yet.

Has tilt been a problem with these sets in general? Is it easy to fix?

does the spot get progressively worse over time or does it pretty much stay the same brightness level??

Mine doesn't seem as pronounced as it was. Maybe I'm just getting used to it.

Originally posted by igotgame



if it stays the same I can live with that

You shouldn't have to live w/ it all all.

Originally posted by Kipp Jones
Nice, I like the detail in the right corner.

Thanks for the replay and the picture--very nice work on the cabinet! I've got something very similar planned with a little room on either side--I hope that does the job.

jpe

Have any of you guys run into this one?

I have a video processor that I can connect to my 52725 with using RGBHV/VGA breakout into the PC connection of the Mits or I can use RBGHV to RGBHV. The PC connection works fine, 1280x720x60Hz. How3ever when I just hook up RBGHV to the IN-DTV input I get what looks like an out of sync image (colored lines diagonally across the screen).

Anybody have any ideas? Will the RGBHV input not recognize the native resolution of the display using RGBHV? Is that it?

Another possibility....Must I somehow tell the display that I am using RBGHV and not component on that input? If so, how? I don't see any setup option that allows you to make that choice. The way the manual reads it sounds like the set just recognizes that you have connected H & V and thus concludes that you have used this input for RGBHV instead of component. Am I right?

Again, any ideas?

Originally posted by jpenright
Thanks for the replay and the picture--very nice work on the cabinet! I've got something very similar planned with a little room on either side--I hope that does the job.

jpe


Please post pics of the final project.

A couple of more observations on my 52525:

The bright spot wouldn't be any kind of "Burn-in" would it?? I know DLP isn't suppose to have this problem, but it does use mirrors which I believe are what "burn-in" usually happen on. I have only had this TV 1 week and only played the xbox about 4 hours..I don't think is an issue, but I just wanted to see what others thought about that idea.

Another thing...my TV seems to have some greenish tint to some things on SD channels and even HDTV channels (xbox games too). I have adjusted just about everything I can adjust to see if I can help it, but nothing seems to work. It's not really bad, but I can see it..things, people, etc seem to sometimes have a greenish tint to them. Anyone else had this problem??

Some channels do look worse than others in terms of the greenish tint. Then again Discovery HD doesn't seem to have the issue at all usually.

Originally posted by igotgame
[B]A couple of more observations on my 52525:

The bright spot wouldn't be any kind of "Burn-in" would it??
[snip]
sometimes have a greenish tint to them. Anyone else had this problem??


No, no burn-in. Impossible with DLP. The bright spot is an internal reflection of light "leaking" out of the light engine.

The green-tint is another common issue....personally, I don't have it bad at all and rarely notice it only on some SD.

Originally posted by kcuf
I just called Mitsubishi. The latest version of software is V26 004.04. However, .04 is to fix a "cable card" issue. Otherwise, if you are not using a "cable card" version V26 004.03 should be used.

By the way, the Mitsubishi phone number for product software upgrade is 866.252.4333.

I don't think the techs know what they are talking about. I was originally told the upgrade was to solve my audio sync problem. I upgraded Monday. When I called today because the service tech cancelled on me to look at my Netcommand recording problem, I was told that the 4.04 was supposed to solve various Netcommand problems. He said if I am having Netcommand problems, I need to try another install of 4.04. The new flash card should arrive some time after Christmas.

Meanwhile, the two closest service techs refuse to come to my house saying it is out of their territory. This issue is being escalated within Mitsubishi. Very strange.

I didn't have a sync problem, the audio just did not work. When I turned the TV on the sound would work for the first minute and then nothing. Sometimes it worked all day other times nothing at all. Mits sent out two software upgrades unfortunately, they did not work.

Finally, they sent out a tech who had to replace the entire rear inner workings (just about everything except the light engine, piece was the size of a large backpack). Works great now. On a side note, if you have what appears to be a dead pixel or in my case half a pixel blocked. Make a stink within the first 30 days (under the manufacturers warranty). After thirty days they won't correct the problem. When the tech was there I removed the screen and cleaned the reflection mirrors (got rid of 4 smudges visible on bright scenes). The "half blocked pixel" was actually a small scratch on the screen. This only bothers me cause I know it's there. When viewing it is impossible to see unless you are within 10 feet of the TV (we sit about 15 to 17 feet away). A new screen (not the protective shield) costs about 300 to 400 $ according to Mits. Unless my vision improves with age (20/15 currently) I will not be replacing the screen.

jnug,

Yes you do need to specify that the DTV input is being used for an RGBHV signal instead of a component video signal. Go into netcommand, add the device and select DTV as the connection for the device... on the next screen it will ask if you will be using the connection as a component video input or an RGBHV input.

Originally posted by mundis
I didn't have a sync problem, the audio just did not work. When I turned the TV on the sound would work for the first minute and then nothing. Sometimes it worked all day other times nothing at all. Mits sent out two software upgrades unfortunately, they did not work.

Finally, they sent out a tech who had to replace the entire rear inner workings (just about everything except the light engine, piece was the size of a large backpack). Works great now. . . .

mundis - thanks for the information. My audio drops off, but only intermittently and chaning channels fixes it. Nice to know that there is a hardware fix in case things get worse.

Thanks BigAl!! That did the trick.

For those that would like to know, I can now add some additional information to my previous posting regarding direct SD into the Mits 52725 vs. the use of what is admitedly a somewhat dated video processor. Whereas I reported last the the RGB/VGA PC connection from the video processor to the Mits at 1280x720x60Hz clearly produced a cleaner, clearer, more artifact free image than the DVI/HDMI (MonLink) connection did direct from the cable box, using the RGBHV/RGBHV connection from the processor to the Mits did not produce a similar result. In fact, that performance was not as good as the DVI/HDMI direct link from the cable box to the Mits. The fact is the Mits is performing a scaling function on the RGB signal regardless of the fact that it is at native resolution whereas using the same processor through the PC connection appears to disable internal scaling by the Mits.

In using the video processor, I am bringing the signal out of the cable box to the digital Leeza processor (not HD Leeza) via component outs.

So, the current result is as follows:
Using the RGB/BGA-PC connection from the processor to the Mits produces what is by far the best result with SD being elevated to a level of performance that is really quite satisfactory. Using a DVD player that has an SDI mod going into the processor and then out to the Mits is in my view outstanding. I have had the pleasure of using this particular SDI DVD set up with several displays including my current other large digital display ( a Fujitsu P50 plasma) and I am quite impressed with this result on the Mits.

Next in performance ranking to my eyes is the DVI/HDMI connection direct to the Mits.

Last of the three options appears to be RGBHV/RGBHV using an external processor. Here I am attributing the failing to the fact that the Mits is processing again the signal out of the "processor" regardless of the fact that it is a 1280x720x60Hz signal.

It is clear that even a dated external processor will outperform internal scaling. You just need to use the PC input to the Mits to see the result. This could be of interest to users since the price for external scalers has plummeted recently.

Also when performing Netcommand set up make sure that you are not using the "device" that you are trying to configure as it will not allow it and then there is no way to get to the cancel button to back out of the configuration. You have to power down the TV and start all over again.

Does anyone know of a trick to get NetCommand to act as a simple IR repeater?

I've been thinking of getting a good HT remote like the Harmony or Home Theater Master, and use it instead of NetCommand. Although NC is pretty powerful, it suffers severe timing lag. For example, when fast-forwarding the VCR, you always end up going way past where you want to just because of NC's latency in sending the IR commands to the VCR.

I was hoping a straight "pass-through" mode would have no latency and enable the NC system to simply retransmit the original IR codes out to its IR transmitters. The Mits IR remote sensor is internal, reflected off the display mirrors; making it a nice big, fat target for aiming the remote.

My other equipment is inside a cabinet, and I have the Mits IR transmitters already positioned for them. I realize I can purchase a standalone IR repeater, but the Mits TV has all the ingredients for a fine repeater.

Question is, how?

Originally posted by HTBruceM
Does anyone know of a trick to get NetCommand to act as a simple IR repeater?


I think it already is. A repeater, by definition, will have some latency, but it really is negligable for the Net Command. My set top box responds to the repeated commands as it would using the factory supplied remote for the device.

It could be that the act of precise "Fast Forwarding" itself is a one sided battle. I mean, there is the human factor to deal with. ;)

Because Net Command can only learn one IR code for any one button, that pretty much says that it is a direct repeater, and not a thinker. WEll, it does have a simple mapping algorythm to do once you select XYZ device. But I am sure that is a "one time load" for each device, and not something the TV has to think twice about each time a button is pressed.

Now, sometimes that TV does have brain farts and lets itself fall about 20 remote commands behind before doing them all at once.

-Edit,
Another something cool I just stumbled across. The TV's front panel buttons also act in accordance with the prescribed Net Command function. i.e. the channel up button sent the command to my Set Top Box to change the channel. Hey, it beats a stick in the eye. :D

NC is a software-based translator more than a repeater. It translates the Mits remote buttons in a context sensitive way into the end-device's IR codes. That translation takes time and appears to be shared with a number of other tasks running under their operating system (VXWorks..?).

In my view, the purest form of an IR repeater would be just a simple electrical circuit with and IR sensor on one end, IR emitters on the other end, and only some discrete circuitry in between. The only latency would be that of the circuits (in nanoseconds). No translation/conversion of codes. The latency of a software algorithm running on the Mits processor is no doubt several orders of magnitude larger (in the milliseconds or in NC's case, seconds).

I don't get your point in the "human factor" comment (unless you're not serious at all). It's the same exact human factor when using the native VCR remote; there is no delay in that scenario, the delay only exists using NC. The human factor is, after all, a constant between the two scenarios; I am the same human with the same response times no matter which remote I'm using. Yet the NC scenario is creating a definite problem. You said yourself that NC sometimes gets several command behind; if that isn't latency, then somebody hit me... :p

My desire was to have all the NC software controlling stuff bypassed, but I guess it will always be going through the software. Guess I've convinced myself that what I'd like to do is not possible with this TV. Maybe I'll look into an RF remote that has local IR blasters at the end equipment.

Originally posted by corrales_avs
------ jpaulr ------

I too have smudges and tilt. I have not tried to memorize any channels yet.

Has tilt been a problem with these sets in general? Is it easy to fix?

I returned the smudges unit. My 1st one could have been tilted . . . I didn't have it long enough to make that observation.

As far as ease of fix: we shall see. They're sending a service tech over next week to adjust.

I'm interested to know if anyone else is having the lock up on memorize issue I am.

Last years NetCommand TV's had an IR blaster output so you could use the TV as an IR emitter... it looks like they've done away with this feature in the '05 version of NC. I tried pointing my Tivo remote only at the TV to see if it would pass it thru the IR blasters of the TV and it didn't appear to work.

However, I am using NC on my TV... maybe if you use the TV without NC you could hookup the blasters and it may work. Can't hurt to try. I really don't feel like deleting my entire NC setup to test it out... but if you do try it post back and let us know.

If that doesn't work there are a couple other options...
-wired IR systems... the most responsive (check out Niles Audio for some examples)
-RCA IR-to-RF-IR repeater cones... very low priced and work reasonably well
-IR/RF remote with RF receiver w blaster ports... like the URC remotes and their RF base station

Alan

Hi...
I don't think I have seen this one before...has anybody ever have their Mits' stop accepting input changes? I have had this happen a couple of times. I was trying to go from Input 1 to Comp 2, and nothing happened. At that point, the TV stopped responding completely. I couldn't change channels, etc. I sat there a good 5 minutes or so before resetting, just in case it was just some kind of lag. The reset 'cured' it, and when I turned it on after the reset it came up on the input I was trying to get to. I'm wondering if I am the only one with this particular issue. Any thoughts?

Thanks!
-Randy

The majority of lock-ups occur when changing the display. For me, I was more likely to see major delays when I was using the PIP/POP like a mad man compaying DVD players and other toys. I only had one lockup tha required a reset, the rest where just remote control "delays".

Randy, I'm sure I've seen that too....I just lump it into the general lock-up, reset required category that I experience about once every 2 weeks or so.

However, most of my lock-ups occur during PIP/POP usage (exchanges etc.) ... especially with HD channels.

Originally posted by boristhedog
Randy, I'm sure I've seen that too....I just lump it into the general lock-up, reset required category that I experience about once every 2 weeks or so.

However, most of my lock-ups occur during PIP/POP usage (exchanges etc.) ... especially with HD channels.

Thanks for the input, guys. It is more or less a minor annoyance...I was just curious if it was unique and if a firmware update would fix it. Since I still have my original firmware and have relatively few problems with it, I don't want to change unless I know I'll get something out of it!

-Randy

Has the 04 update been released yet? I am wondering if there are fixes for firewire recording issues?

Originally posted by HDorBust
Has the 04 update been released yet? I am wondering if there are fixes for firewire recording issues?

I am awaiting my version 4.04 firmware to test this exact issue. I was told by a CSR last week that I'm eligible for the upgrade because of my CableCARD problems, but that he wasn't authorized to issue me the update and would have a service representative call me back first to discuss it (?). I have neither received that call nor the firmware. I'll give it a couple more days before calling back.

While it might be overkill, I just ordered a Belkin 1100VA UPS with AVR. Here's a blurb from Belkin's web site:

There are two types of UPS for the desktop category a Stand-by and a Line-Interactive UPS. The Stand-by is a simple UPS that will protect your computer against over voltages and surges caused from lightning strikes. During a blackout the UPS will also switch to battery backup and continue to provide power to your computer until it is safely shutdown. A Line-Interactive UPS is a little bit more sophisticated than the stand-by UPS. It has all the features of a stand-by plus it has built in line conditioning known as AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulation) that cleans up dirty power that is flowing through the utility lines. A UPS with AVR is the perfect device to guard against all power disturbances – including blackouts. The slightest drop in power can cause your computer to freeze or shut off, both resulting in lost work, data and time. So be sure to get your computer protected with a UPS that has AVR technology.

We have the occassional power outage because our street is underground (cable/power/everything) and wherever the junction is is a problem in severe weather. I was thinking it would be cool if you could cable the UPS to the Mits so that it would automatically shut down completely after 15 minutes or so and prevent any spikes... although the Belkin is supposed to protect against surges as well. Probably a dumb idea. :confused:

Finally happened. My 52725 won't store digital channels. I've got new software coming for it next week, but I know this has happened to others. Anyone know the fix to get the digitals back?

Originally posted by dwarren2
Finally happened. My 52725 won't store digital channels. I've got new software coming for it next week, but I know this has happened to others. Anyone know the fix to get the digitals back?

I had this happen once.

I had to reset the unit twice. Then it came back. No major problems since.

Originally posted by GizmoSprocket
I had this happen once.

I had to reset the unit twice. Then it came back. No major problems since.

Did you do a master reset or something else?

are there any discrete ir codes for inputs etc?
I've done a little bit of searching but haven't turned up anything.

any help is appreciated

Anyone have any new updates on the green shadow / tint problem. I just got mine 2 days ago and the green shadow problem is really annoying.

In SD there are the green halos around objects and when in DVD everything is majorly tinted green.


I ran S&V setup disc and in the grayscale bars two bars that are consecutive with one another near the darker end of the spectrum have green and red tints respectively.

I can take a photo if anyone is curious. :confused:

Originally posted by MCD007
Anyone have any new updates on the green shadow / tint problem. I just got mine 2 days ago and the green shadow problem is really annoying.

In SD there are the green halos around objects and when in DVD everything is majorly tinted green.
I

Are you still using the factory presets for color and video? Once I turned the auto color off and modified the video prefs as described in the forum, I lost the green tint and green edges around faces in SD.

Has anyone seen a brief vertical line, as if the screen was split and slightly shifted vertically, approx.1/3 of theway across the screen from the left? I've noticed it about 3 times in the last week on differnet inputs. I caught it last night on my SD d*tivo, quickly jumped back and replayed it and it wasn't the content. Any thoughts?

Originally posted by jimrimback
Has anyone seen a brief vertical line, as if the screen was split and slightly shifted vertically, approx.1/3 of theway across the screen from the left? I've noticed it about 3 times in the last week on differnet inputs. I caught it last night on my SD d*tivo, quickly jumped back and replayed it and it wasn't the content. Any thoughts? I've had my set for about 3 months now and have seen this "screen divider image" probably 5 or 6 times, on different inputs. I'm chalking it up to a momentary computer gliche and probably nothing to be too concerned about.

Originally posted by Statix
are there any discrete ir codes for inputs etc?
I've done a little bit of searching but haven't turned up anything.

any help is appreciated

Search this thread for a post by scottmd1us, it contains excellant directions for getting the Mits remote to put out discrete codes. Just teach them to a learner, and you're good to go.

Because of the poor reliability the Sammy DLP's seem to have been experiencing, I was thinking of possible replacement sets for my Sammy HLN-507. The Mits Wd-52x25 series would fit in my max. space of 50" wide.

1. Would I be as happy with the PQ of the Mits as the Sammy?

2. Is the lamp in the wd-xxx25 series user replaceable like the Sammy's?

3. Has anyone had lamp troubles yet on their Mits DLP's?

4. What is the rated life in hours of the Mits. lamps?

I did a search on this forum for these answers to no avail. Can anyone help?

Originally posted by dwarren2
Are you still using the factory presets for color and video? Once I turned the auto color off and modified the video prefs as described in the forum, I lost the green tint and green edges around faces in SD.

I am using settings that i picked via calibration with the S&V disc. The green tint on dvd is less but still noticeable in shadowy scences.

The SD halo is less but still is very obvious.

I've only had my 62725 for just over a week, I was enjoying OTA HD broadcasts with a simple, non amplified antenna and now today I was unable to receive any HD broadcasts!

I called a few friends to see if they were able to receive OTA HD signals and they were. My troubleshooting indicates that the antenna is working, so I ask the following:

1. Has anyone else had troubles with the MITs integrated tuner?
2. Is it possible that I put my TV is some sort of mode that is preventing me from receive OTA HD?

Thanks in advance, this is a bummer.

RH in Corrales

Originally posted by corrales_avs
I've only had my 62725 for just over a week, I was enjoying OTA HD broadcasts with a simple, non amplified antenna and now today I was unable to receive any HD broadcasts!

I called a few friends to see if they were able to receive OTA HD signals and they were. My troubleshooting indicates that the antenna is working, so I ask the following:

1. Has anyone else had troubles with the MITs integrated tuner?
2. Is it possible that I put my TV is some sort of mode that is preventing me from receive OTA HD?

Thanks in advance, this is a bummer.

RH in Corrales

Some folks had a problem with an earlier version of the firmware with the tuner losing digital stations. Try a reset and rescanning for stations. You should check your firmware version and/or call Mits because I believe this was fixed in a subsequent patch.

I was going to try the "reset" yesterday, but when I read the description that it only undid changes since the last power down I didn't bother. I did it this morning (twice actually, the first reset resulted in a blinking green light for > 10 minutes) and now I have my digital channels again.

It was interesting, yesterday it seemed as if the "guide" was finding the digital channels as it would display all of them and even some program descriptions, however, if I selected a digital channel I'd simply get the blue screen of muted video.

My software version is: "V26 004.003", is there a listing somewhere of all the versions and issues addressed?

Thanks again,

RH in Corrales.

Steve...

Its going to be hard to get an unbiased :) reply from us Mits owners, but I've had my 62725 since the 1st week of November, so I'll take a crack at it:

1. PQ - I think the Mits is actually "better" than the Sammies I've seen side by side. I compared the Kirk with a Mits 52525 side by side and I liked the Mits better. The colors seemed deeper and cleaner, and it has delivered 100%. But I'll also admit that this is a very subjective issue. :D

2. AFAIK, the lamp is user replaceable, it's right behind the speaker grill.

3. Mine's been perfect, so maybe I'm the norm, maybe not. You'd have to consider how many people actually belong to this forum vs total Mits owners across the country, and then wonder how many members even who are totally happy... that would bother posting they are thrilled with their choice and their set. I am.

4. I think the lamp is rated for 8000 hours, but I'm not 100% sure. I bought an extended warranty, but not lamp coverage because my local in-town dealer will sell me a lamp at his cost if I ever need one down the road. I think he said it's $200 wholesale.

Originally posted by SteveRR
Because of the poor reliability the Sammy DLP's seem to have been experiencing, I was thinking of possible replacement sets for my Sammy HLN-507. The Mits Wd-52x25 series would fit in my max. space of 50" wide.

1. Would I be as happy with the PQ of the Mits as the Sammy?

2. Is the lamp in the wd-xxx25 series user replaceable like the Sammy's?

3. Has anyone had lamp troubles yet on their Mits DLP's?

4. What is the rated life in hours of the Mits. lamps?

I did a search on this forum for these answers to no avail. Can anyone help?

Thanks, IronHorse. Your input is appreciated.

Originally posted by SteveRR
Thanks, IronHorse. Your input is appreciated.

Steve:

What are the "reliability" problems you are speaking of with the Samsung?

I'm in the market for a DLP and I had narrowed my choices to the Mits xx725 and the Samsung. I saw both of them today side by side and was unimpressed with both of them.

I clearly saw rainbowing in the Sammy and the Mits was tilted. The glare was unbearable on the Mits (I have a bright room in the day).

As of now, I'm staying put and going to ask a lot of questions at the CES this week. For the amount of $$$ they're charging for these sets, you would think the quality control would be much better.

Originally posted by jimrimback
Has anyone seen a brief vertical line, as if the screen was split and slightly shifted vertically, approx.1/3 of theway across the screen from the left? I've noticed it about 3 times in the last week on differnet inputs. I caught it last night on my SD d*tivo, quickly jumped back and replayed it and it wasn't the content. Any thoughts?

Yes, I have. Actually, I've seen it divide itself into three equal 'panels', but just for a brief instant. Oddly, the first several times I noticed it there was a Sprint PCS commercial on, and it would be when 'Trenchcoat Guy' had everyone watch the video panel on his bus. But it has happened some besides that. It hasn't been enough to bug me too bad, so far....

-Randy

Steve...

No problem. I should mention a couple of sidebars; first, I have the 62725 which has a bit less glare than the 62525, but it's still there. My family room is 14'+ X 21' and the outside wall opposite the TV faces south and I have a triple anderson window that is about 10 feet wide and 12" off the ground to 12" from the ceiling (see picture). We have no drapes or shades, and the TV is positioned diagonally in the NE corner. Honestly, the glare isn't as big an issue as I thought, and frankly... the only reason I even considered the Samy 5674 was the glare... not the specs or picture because the Mits has the Samy beat on both counts.

My set is dated as built in October 2004 and it has the xxxxx03 software. No tilt, no rainbows, no mysterious lockups or anything else. I also looked at the JVC-DILA briefly, but I didn't care for the PQ. I also didn't want a set with "elephant ears" (speakers mounted outboard of the picture). When the set is tuned to a dead channel that just shows black, I do barely see a very faint "halo" but my wife couldn't figure out what I was talking about until I stood in front of the set. It totally is gone whenever there's a picture on the screen. The SD quality BTW, is better than I expected with the built-in tuner. As of yet, I have not opted for the cablecard although I'm considering it because I want ESPN HD.

I'm not as frivilous with my money as some folks, so I did at least 6 months research and countless trips to all the local retailers to look at these sets over and over and over. So do your research and buy whatever _YOU_ like because you usually have to live with it unless you're dealing with an unusual dealer that will let you try 5 different sets before buying. But I just wanted to point out here that some of us Mits owners are absolutely nuts about our sets and have zero major issues.

Happy New Year!



Originally posted by SteveRR
Thanks, IronHorse. Your input is appreciated.

Originally posted by YMark
Steve:

What are the "reliability" problems you are speaking of with the Samsung?

I'm in the market for a DLP and I had narrowed my choices to the Mits xx725 and the Samsung. I saw both of them today side by side and was unimpressed with both of them.

I clearly saw rainbowing in the Sammy and the Mits was tilted. The glare was unbearable on the Mits (I have a bright room in the day).

As of now, I'm staying put and going to ask a lot of questions at the CES this week. For the amount of $$$ they're charging for these sets, you would think the quality control would be much better.

As you are probably already aware, the glare screen can be quite easily removed, and it makes a HUGE difference on my 62525. I took it off and haven't looked back since. I don't have kids or pets, so I am not really worried about damaging the screen underneath. I did like the look of the TV (when off) with the screen on it better, though...

Thanks,
Jeff

Jeff, did you get the "free" trim kit from Mits and install it?

I was told that Mitsubishi is offering free trim kits for the people that remove the screen. It is supposed to clean up the look.

How about tilting? Any issues with that?

Guys,

Just took delivery on my new 62725 and can't wait to get it hooked up. Was thumbing through the manual and noticed the TV has digital coaxial out. For those of you that use AV receivers, do you prefer to do the old fashioned way and attach all your components to the AV receiver, then a single video output to TV or (becaue of this latest option) attach each of your audio/video components directly to the TV, then output the audio both using the coaxial digital and analog outputs to the AV receiver, which then sends audio to external speakers. Would audio quality be somewhat less doing this (I'm use to the AV getting the sources first, then to TV, speakers, etc.)

Thanks

Originally posted by YMark
Jeff, did you get the "free" trim kit from Mits and install it?

I was told that Mitsubishi is offering free trim kits for the people that remove the screen. It is supposed to clean up the look.

How about tilting? Any issues with that?

No I haven't gotten the trim kit from Mits. I have heard rumors about it, but I wasn't sure how to go about getting the kit for free (via the Best Buy rebate offer) without having the original packaging (since it was taken away when BB delivered it), and since I bought the TV outside of the timeframe that was outlined in the offer that I saw.

Is it possible to just call Mits and get the kit for free? I don't think it is fair that only those folks who bought the TV recently should get the kit for free, and the instructions on how to get it via the rebate are very unrealistic (original TV UPC required - if I understand it right).

I did have some tilt in mine once upon a time, but I adjusted most of it out using the adjustment screws behind the cover that is behind the speaker grill. I really don't notice it at all anymore.

If anyone has had any luck getting Mits to "give" them the kit, please step forward! Honestly, the parts that make it up can't cost them all that much to make - no more than $10 IMHO.

Thanks,
Jeff

Originally posted by Panzer948
Guys,

Just took delivery on my new 62725 and can't wait to get it hooked up. Was thumbing through the manual and noticed the TV has digital coaxial out. For those of you that use AV receivers, do you prefer to do the old fashioned way and attach all your components to the AV receiver, then a single video output to TV or (becaue of this latest option) attach each of your audio/video components directly to the TV, then output the audio both using the coaxial digital and analog outputs to the AV receiver, which then sends audio to external speakers. Would audio quality be somewhat less doing this (I'm use to the AV getting the sources first, then to TV, speakers, etc.)

Thanks

Hi and welcome to the fold!

Personally, I use a bit of a combination. Since there are no digital audio inputs on the Mits (somebody correct me if I'm wrong there), with the exception of the HDMI interface, I run most things directly through my AVR. I run the digital coax out to the receiver to pass the DD sound from OTA TV. It would have been nice to run everything through the TV and have one connection to the AVR (and only one place to change inputs!), but it just wouldn't work that way for me....

-Randy

Originally posted by IFLYSWA
Hi and welcome to the fold!

Personally, I use a bit of a combination. Since there are no digital audio inputs on the Mits (somebody correct me if I'm wrong there), with the exception of the HDMI interface, I run most things directly through my AVR. I run the digital coax out to the receiver to pass the DD sound from OTA TV. It would have been nice to run everything through the TV and have one connection to the AVR (and only one place to change inputs!), but it just wouldn't work that way for me....

-Randy

Ah, makes sense. If I get an OTA antenna, I will do the same. So, do you connect your TV via component or HDMI from the cable box/satalite reciever? If I were to use component, then I could connect both my DVD player and cable box DVR to the AVR, then use another single set of component cables to the TV. Based on a lot of info from this thread, HDMI doesn't really bring better PQ, and my AVR doesnt have an HDMI connection anyway

Originally posted by Panzer948
Ah, makes sense. If I get an OTA antenna, I will do the same. So, do you connect your TV via component or HDMI from the cable box/satalite reciever? If I were to use component, then I could connect both my DVD player and cable box DVR to the AVR, then use another single set of component cables to the TV. Based on a lot of info from this thread, HDMI doesn't really bring better PQ, and my AVR doesnt have an HDMI connection anyway

Well, I use a combination there, too. My receiver (Onkyo TX-DS797) has two component inputs, with one output. I have my DVD player and Xbox hooked into those, along with optical outs for sound. I then run the component out from the receiver to the second component input on the Mits. I run the Moto 6208 component out to the first Mits input and run the audio out to the receiver - I need to try the SPDIF or optical outs again...I didn't have much luck the first time around so I just ran analogs at that time. I have a couple of ReplayTVs hooked into the receiver via S-Vid cables (and optical outs for the sound), and a S-Vid cable output to the Mits for them. I think that about covers it. I don't know if it is the best way to hook it up, but it was the best I could come up with....

Hope that helps!
-Randy

Originally posted by spiff72
If anyone has had any luck getting Mits to "give" them the kit, please step forward! I second that! I tried to call today, but the hold was too long. No one in the Portland area seems to stock the trim kit.

Originally posted by HTBruceM
I second that! I tried to call today, but the hold was too long. No one in the Portland area seems to stock the trim kit.

If anyone hasn't seen it, there is a picture of it installed on a TV in the original 2004-2005 Mits DLP thread.

Does anyone have an electronic copy of the trim kit rebate form?

Agk

Originally posted by agkouriphobe
Does anyone have an electronic copy of the trim kit rebate form?

Agk

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4830793#post4830793

(Edited)

Have any of you tried turning off progressive scan on your DVD players and letting the 725 upconvert it? If so, which did you find is better?

Thanks

Originally posted by Panzer948
Have any of you tried turning off progressive scan on your DVD players and letting the 725 upconvert it? If so, which did you find is better?

Thanks

I tried it after reading good things about the Mits de-interlacing. Using "Finding Nemo", I found the sharp coral on the right hand side during the opening credits had jaggies with the 480i feed. Also the scene where the class is at the dropoff, the small green fish broke up horizontally in 480i.

I have talked about my green tint problem and the auto balance flag not 'sticking' after a power cycle. But I had recently noticed that my screen had 2 dark 'blotches'. Now these are almost never visible and even when they are you can hardly notice them. I may have had them from day one but never really noticed them. I really only notice them when the picture is a uniform light color. I can always see it when I'm viewing the PC with a blank light colored background (can't really notice it with the normal XP background). I removed the diamond screen and verified that it is behind the screen, not on the diamond screen or surface of the other screen.
So I called UE today because my 30 day return period is almost up and the screen seems to be warrantied for only 30 days; I started telling them about the blotches and was going to go into all the details about my other problems and ask for a technician to come and look at my set, but they just scheduled an exchange, no questions asked.
So even though it appears that UE is having financial problems I would probably recommend them.

I havent' read through the brightspot subject yet so hope this wasn't covered there, but my problem wasn't a bright spot but a dark spot, has anyone else noticed a dark spot or two on there screen?, it is very very hard to notice. If you have a PC hooked up you could try turning your desktop background to none and a color to white or cyan.

I have been using a Monster HTS1000 MKII Clean Power strip with surge protection to power my Mits and other components. I also recently came into possession of an APC UPS battery backup with surge protection. The instructions w/ the UPS stated that it should be connected directly to a wall outlet, not to a power strip.

My questions for you electrical engineers or want-to-bes:
- Do I need both in series or just use the UPS and not the Clean Power strip to supply the Mits
- Should the UPS be plugged directly into the wall outlet and the power strip into the UPS and then my TV etc, into the power strip, or should I ignor the UPS instructions and connect it to the Monster power strip and then only connnect the Mits to the UPS
??????????????

Mitsubishi WD-52725 Question(s) lots
hey all, I wanted to make my first post here as I've been lurking for a while but finally decided to make the post with a couple unanswered questions, although I'm new to this forum (first post) I'm not new to forums and the general rules.


So my first question is why is there never any mention of Price on these forums? (flame suit on). I'm just curious b/c I'm up to my neck in research about pricing on the 525 and now the subsequent 725 version of the Mitsu 52 inch and would love to get some insight on the pricing people have been able to recieve namely:

1) price for the unit
2) price for the stand
3) pricing for the "extended service plan" etc...

Reason being is I'm sold on this model above all others after looking at the Hitachi's, panasonics, Sammy's, Sonys' etc.. but jsut want to find the right$$$ assuming no one here is paying full retail on this box or anything for that matter....

lastly, if the 52725 has the cable card, do you still need an OTA for it?

If someone can email or private message me I'd surely appreciate it! I'm super excited to get the TV, hopefully by superbowl sunday and set it up!

Thanks in Advance for all the help and assistance. I look forward to learning much more on this thread.

Thanks,

D

Mitsubishi WD-52725 Question(s) lots
hey all, I wanted to make my first post here as I've been lurking for a while but finally decided to make the post with a couple unanswered questions, although I'm new to this forum (first post) I'm not new to forums and the general rules.


So my first question is why is there never any mention of Price on these forums? (flame suit on). I'm just curious b/c I'm up to my neck in research about pricing on the 525 and now the subsequent 725 version of the Mitsu 52 inch and would love to get some insight on the pricing people have been able to recieve namely:

1) price for the unit
2) price for the stand
3) pricing for the "extended service plan" etc...

Reason being is I'm sold on this model above all others after looking at the Hitachi's, panasonics, Sammy's, Sonys' etc.. but jsut want to find the right$$$ assuming no one here is paying full retail on this box or anything for that matter....

lastly, if the 52725 has the cable card, do you still need an OTA for it?

If someone can email or private message me I'd surely appreciate it! I'm super excited to get the TV, hopefully by superbowl sunday and set it up!

Thanks in Advance for all the help and assistance. I look forward to learning much more on this thread.

Thanks,

D

Originally posted by dojo_s4
Mitsubishi WD-52725 Question(s) lots
hey all, I wanted to make my first post here as I've been lurking for a while but finally decided to make the post with a couple unanswered questions, although I'm new to this forum (first post) I'm not new to forums and the general rules.

So my first question is why is there never any mention of Price on these forums? (flame suit on).

Hi...
The reason for there being no price discussions is that the forum's rules ask that it not be done. From what I have heard, they want this to be a place to discuss the merits/problems of home entertainment equipment, not another Fat Wallet. Not that Fat Wallet isn't very helpful, it is just not what the hosts of the these forums want. Since they provide the forums, they get to make the rules...it's as simple as that. That being said, I don't believe they have any problem with people PMing that type of information to you, so hopefully you'll get some helpful replies via that method...

-Randy

Me to I really appreciate it and wasn't looking to incite a riot, so thanks Randy for the info.

I do have one more question for you while were on the subject.

assuming I get the 52inch the stand and the warranty is an antenna entirely necessary? any other things like the surge protector etc..

I'm coming from a 27 inch sony xbr so yeah it should be quite a treat.

Thanks again,

David.

Originally posted by dojo_s4
Me to I really appreciate it and wasn't looking to incite a riot, so thanks Randy for the info.

I do have one more question for you while were on the subject.

assuming I get the 52inch the stand and the warranty is an antenna entirely necessary? any other things like the surge protector etc..

I'm coming from a 27 inch sony xbr so yeah it should be quite a treat.

Thanks again,

David.

No problem, David. I PM'd you some info on my deal, although it wasn't all that stellar. I opted for another stand...one from the Z-Line Maxim line from Circuit City. It is comparably priced to the Mits...maybe a touch cheaper...and I think it is very attractive. And I just don't like the Mits stand. It doesn't have any real room for components, and it makes the TV look too much like a CRT. Not that there is anything wrong with that. :)

Personally, I would want an antenna, regardless. I just like having as many signal sources as I can. I haven't been able to try a Cable Card yet, as my area has the dreaded A/B (two line) cable. I do plan on getting one, but that will have to wait until Comcast shuffles things around to put all the digital stuff on one line. I'll keep the antenna around, though.

I purchased a Belkin UPS with AVR for mine...I got a very good deal thanks to a heads-up from a fellow AVS member. I think it is a relatively small investment to protect a $4K TV. And I plugged some other components into it, as well, so that is a good thing. Other than that, get ready to drop a little more than you really want to on cables and such....then you should be good to go! I'll try to find the info on the Belkin deal and will PM you if I find it, if you like....

Good luck!

-Randy

Perfect! that's what I was looking for.

Thank you!

d (rubs hands together like smithers) egggseelent! ;)

Originally posted by TomTx
- Do I need both in series or just use the UPS and not the Clean Power strip to supply the Mits
- Should the UPS be plugged directly into the wall outlet and the power strip into the UPS and then my TV etc, into the power strip, or should I ignor the UPS instructions and connect it to the Monster power strip and then only connnect the Mits to the UPS
??????????????

It depends on how good the UPS is. But you can not go wrong with putting the Clean Power Strip before the UPS. I doubt the Clean Power Strip requires power to allow its outlets to have power? Might want to do a circuit brekaer flip and test it out.

It could be possible for large voltages to pass through the UPS, but given the average size of those units, they should have good enough overvoltage suppression built in. Better safe than sorry, so go with the series setup...


<wall outlet>-----<surge strip>-------<UPS>-------<Mits TV>
|
-----<DVD, receiver, etc>


ps. Only a BS in EE, so I could get trumped by someone. ;)

** I havent' read through the brightspot subject yet so hope this wasn't covered there, but my problem wasn't a bright spot but a dark spot, has anyone else noticed a dark spot or two on there screen?, it is very very hard to notice. If you have a PC hooked up you could try turning your desktop background to none and a color to white or cyan. **

Paudegme -- the dark spots you see are most likely "shadows" caused by lint or dust or?? on the mirror or some other place that is blocking the light from the reaching the LCD.

I have the same problem with my set and a service guy came out this week to fix it only to reschedule the service for this coming week as it was "a two man job" to remove the back of the set and to dig into the TV.

Now I'm reconsidering as I hate to think that they can really clean everything up in my house where two dogs and cats live without introducing more dust, lint, pet hair, ??, into the guts of the TV. I'm thinking now that I want a new set.

If you happen to Avia to help adjust your set, I found that one of the "special" test patterns entitled "overscan" was very good for looking for smudges or shadows. This pattern is mostly white and very bright.

BTW, did you look at the picture with the glare shield off? If you did what did you think?

Good luck with the new set.

RH

TomTx,

I have my Mits wired the same way BB_Mike shows in his excellent diagram. I'm actually using a Brickwall (http://www.brickwall.com) in front of an inexpensive UPS, and it seems to work OK.

With the Brickwall, I'm sure nothing will get through to my other components or the TV, so I don't really have to worry too much about the surge-protection quality of the UPS....it is mainly just a battery backup for the lamp fan in case the power goes out.

-John

Originally posted by John Williams and BB_Mike


John & BB_Mike
Thanks. The only reason I was thinking of the UPS was for protection of the lamp. I will hook it up as you both suggested.

The glare is greatly reduced with the shield off, however, i think the picture is slightly better with the shield on; and at this time I like the added protection of the shield, i can control the lighting good enough to really prevent any problems with glare.

The new set is great, I haven't had a chance to completly check it out. There appears to be one small dark spot on this set as well, but is very small and the only way to see it is to really select a device that is not being used , turn the brightness up to max and gettting real close;

The green tint seems to be reduced but still there, and I am not completly sure I am not just being hyper-sensitive; I now seem to see quite a bit of what I think is green tint on my older 36" non-hd CRT, and I have always thought this TV had a great picture (great that is until i saw HD);
My hypersensitivity probably started when I hooked up an upconverting toshiba dvd player via HDMI, and it did have horrendous green tint ; after that I think I did becom hyper sensitive to green.

Originally posted by paudemge
There appears to be one small dark spot on this set as well, but is very small and the only way to see it is to really select a device that is not being used , turn the brightness up to max and gettting real close
Sounds like a dead pixel. It is not much of a problem unless you can see it from where you sit.

Michael

Originally posted by Michael Mohrmann
Sounds like a dead pixel. It is not much of a problem unless you can see it from where you sit.

Michael

Its not really a problem ,but I don't think it is a dead pixel or stuck mirror, i think it is dust; it is very small; but it is about 3 pixels/mirrors in size, and not completly dark, it looks like a smudge. I only saw it because I turned brightness way up on an unused device and started to take a real close look from a couple of inches away.

Does anyone have their 725 (or 525/825) hooked up to a Pioneer DV-59avi DVD player? I am seriously considering getting this player and connecting it using HDMI. I understand that a good component based progressive player that outputs 480p would probably give a very good picture as well since it seems the TV's internal scalar is very good. But the additional audio features of the DV-59avi are impressive as well.

I know people have Denon 1910/2910 DVD players with their Mits. DLPs and have reported a good picture, but I've yet to hear anyone with the Pioneer player...

Originally posted by TomTx
I have been using a Monster HTS1000 MKII Clean Power strip with surge protection to power my Mits and other components. I also recently came into possession of an APC UPS battery backup with surge protection. The instructions w/ the UPS stated that it should be connected directly to a wall outlet, not to a power strip.

My questions for you electrical engineers or want-to-bes:
- Do I need both in series or just use the UPS and not the Clean Power strip to supply the Mits
- Should the UPS be plugged directly into the wall outlet and the power strip into the UPS and then my TV etc, into the power strip, or should I ignor the UPS instructions and connect it to the Monster power strip and then only connnect the Mits to the UPS
??????????????

The APC Smart UPS produces sine-wave output, most Back UPS don't, I think it is some kind of stepped wave. So I would expect a lot of harmonics (noise) from a Back UPS. (I always buy Smart UPS units)

In either case, APC knows what they are talking about, plug the UPS into the wall, and then the power strip into the UPS. That will give you the cleanest power.

I think the TV's built in power regualtion could handle something as simple as "dirty" power from a UPS. What I would fear more is using a UPS as a primary source for multiple Audio/Video devices. Just be sure to consider the total wattage in the case where your UPS is the front runner. Then, after that I would consider the surge supression abilities of the two, and plug the better device into the wall.

APC has a pretty usefull website. I had not heard of them before Dave's post.


APC recommends against the use of any surge protector, power strip or extension cord being plugged into the output of any APC Back-UPS and Smart-UPS products. This document will explain why.


However, they, like any company have their disclaimers and hypocritical advices. They'd prefer you don't add any "variables" into the equation.


The full writeup is here (http://nam-en.apc.com/cgi-bin/nam_en.cfg/php/enduser/popup_adp.php?p_sid=Xn38y-uh&p_lva=397&p_admin=&p_li=&p_faqid=1372&p_created=1010390400)

The theorize that a UPS on a surge bar will suffer if another device on the same surge bar where to suddenly load down circuit. Thus causing a battery backup mode. Hell, to get around that concept, you'd have to install the UPS on a totally seperate circuit in the house. But wait, most household rooms daisy chain outlets, so your stuck chasing your tail.

-ooops gotta go.
and yes, I ahd a few beers before posting this.e

It is true that you must make sure the UPS isn't overloaded. In my case a 1000VA was not enough, I went to a 1500VA to handle the Mits, a Sony receiver/amp and all the other gear. If there may be an overload, then plugging both the UPS and the power strip into the wall is the better option. Put the TV on the UPS, and the audio amp on the power strip.

I know there is another forum that deals with content providers, but I was wondering if anyone else here has subscribed to VOOM with their XX725?

I just got VOOM hooked up yesterday and the HD looks great (no surprise), but the analog signals look atrocious (Headline News, AMC, ....)

I'm running VOOM into my set directly at 1080i using component cables. (Which brings up another question more suited to the other forum, the VOOM install guy told me that the DVI output doesn't work with VOOM??)

Thanks,

RH in Corrales

Does the Voom box allow you to switch between 480i and 1080i? If it does try setting the output to 480i on SD content and only use 720p/1080i on HD.

Sometimes the progressive scan and scaling processors in some STB's aren't that good. The Mit's has a pretty good progressive scan and scaling.

well.....

i've had my 52725 since october, and had no real issues. although i noticed a tilt issue. so i had a service tech come out last week to fix it. it looks great now(at least the tilt issue).

this morning while i was watching a dvd, i looked away for a few seconds at my newborn daughter, when i looked back up at the screen i was shocked to see there are large horizontal (color bleeding) bars across my intiire screen. i figured my dvd player went to poo. so i switched quickly to my tv input. STILL THERE:(

i've included pictures. someone please HELP!!!! i reset it, didn't help.

nick

Question about stands for the 52725 as the standard one for 299 doesn't hold enough components for me and THUS won't work.

anyone else find a nice clean looking stand that they could refer me to look at that would hold more components? Thanks!

David.

here is another example of the problem

If someone can indulge me, could you explain how you'd normally use "component" cables as a means to feed input to the TV? I bought a set of component cables today (RCA type ends) and when I ran them from my DVD player, I couldn't get any video to the screen.

I think I set it up correctly and tried to use net command to configure it, and still no picture. Went back to SVHS which works fine, but I'd like to see if the component video cables and that type of connection would really give me any visible difference.

So if you were hooking up the three (Red/Blue/Green) cables from the DVD player, would you use the bottom-most set of inputs on the TV? Is that called Component DTV? Or should I be using Component #1 or Component #2? See its confusing, because those are called "Component" and I'm wondering if Mits means like... one of your "components" (i.e. a VCR)? Well, give me some ideas guys.

If someone can indulge me, could you explain how you'd normally use "component" cables as a means to feed input to the TV? I bought a set of component cables today (RCA type ends) and when I ran them from my DVD player, I couldn't get any video to the screen.

I think I set it up correctly and tried to use net command to configure it, and still no picture. Went back to SVHS which works fine, but I'd like to see if the component video cables and that type of connection would really give me any visible difference.

So if you were hooking up the three (Red/Blue/Green) cables from the DVD player, would you use the bottom-most set of inputs on the TV? Is that called Component DTV? Or should I be using Component #1 or Component #2? See its confusing, because those are called "Component" and I'm wondering if Mits means like... one of your "components" (i.e. a VCR)? Well, give me some ideas guys.

Hopefully I am going to give you good advice here. Components' 1 and 2 are "Component" connection inputs. I would go ahead and connect my DVD player to one of those first because they do not have to be configured as "component" connector connections to work that way. If you are going to keep the DVD player connected to one of those inputs I might tell Net Command that but for now just make sure that there are no problems with your new component cables and make sure that you have connected them properly.

Once you have established via a successful connection through Component 1 or 2 that you are not having any problems with your new cables or with correctly making the connection, then attack the bottom set of connectors.

The bottom set can be configured as either Component or RGBHV. The only thing that has got me here is that I thought that the bottom set was factory default to Component forcing one to configure it for RGBHV. However I could just as easily be wrong about that.

Hope this helps.

Originally posted by IronHorse
If someone can indulge me, could you explain how you'd normally use "component" cables as a means to feed input to the TV? I bought a set of component cables today (RCA type ends) and when I ran them from my DVD player, I couldn't get any video to the screen.

I think I set it up correctly and tried to use net command to configure it, and still no picture. Went back to SVHS which works fine . . .

Did you disconnect your s-video cable from your dvd player when you connected the component cables? Some players require only one output at a time.

Originally posted by paudemge
Its not really a problem ,but I don't think it is a dead pixel or stuck mirror, i think it is dust; it is very small; but it is about 3 pixels/mirrors in size, and not completly dark, it looks like a smudge. I only saw it because I turned brightness way up on an unused device and started to take a real close look from a couple of inches away.

A number of us have had dirty mirrors. I had both smudges and a piece of plastic on the back mirror. A service call took care of that. If you want to DIY it's pretty easy. Remove the panel around the card slots. and disconnect the connector. uncrew all the screws on the back that hold the screen on. Lift the screen off and clean.

This may be a double post, my file attachment attempt failed, so I'm reposting.....

I thought I should update the thread on my Voom experience.

Basically it is not as bad as I initially thought, the installer left my set in "stretch" mode for SD signals and once I set up the receiver to display 4:3 in 4:3 format that helped quite a bit.

At this point, only Headline News SD looks bad. I'm not sure why, but I'll try to attach a photo showing the problem. It appears that video noise is present on this channel only. (?) The noise also appears to be magnified during "red" images.

The photo I'm attaching is a bit blurry, but I'm still going to post it as it best shows the red video noise.

I am content with Voom over all, I may have to call their 800 support number to see if Headline News is a known problem. I would recommend Voom to anyone who is looking for satillite HD and who does not need some of the extra features (ie PVR).

Thanks,

RH in Corrales

This distortion is called "tearing". It is the result of a C band satellite receiver with insufficent signal or bandwidth to properly demodulate the FM NTSC signal. This is on Voom's headend and not caused by a fault in your receiver.

Ron,

Do you mean that the Voom STB receiver may not have enough bandwidth?

What do mean by "Voom's headend"?

Thanks for the reply.

RH

I see the same problem on some of my Voom standard definition channels. Many of the standard definition channels on the dbs services are picked up from the C band satellites and are then digitally compressed into the Mpeg2 format before being uplinked to their dbs satellites. The location where this takes place is what I meant by Voom's headend. The distortion is being added to the signal in Voom's C band receiver. I have seen the same problem at times on both DirectTV and Dish systems. Voom appears to have a more severe problem on some channels.

Originally posted by dojo_s4
Question about stands for the 52725 as the standard one for 299 doesn't hold enough components for me and THUS won't work.

anyone else find a nice clean looking stand that they could refer me to look at that would hold more components? Thanks!

David.

Picked up this one for my 62725: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?id=1060605669796&skuId=5902302&productCategoryId=cat03116&type=product

It fits with just fractions of an inch on either side but I've got at least 7 devices on the shelves. The wife and I spent many hours looking for stands and this fit what we were looking for.

Originally posted by jimrimback
Picked up this one for my 62725: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?id=1060605669796&skuId=5902302&productCategoryId=cat03116&type=product

It fits with just fractions of an inch on either side but I've got at least 7 devices on the shelves. The wife and I spent many hours looking for stands and this fit what we were looking for.

I got the same stand for my 62525. You are right about the fit - it just fits horizontally.

It does have a ton of room for components, though.

Thanks,
Jeff

i posted yesterday with some examples.....does anyone have a clue as to what could be wrong.

has anyone seen this before. i'm requesting service tomorrow, but i thought i might be able to discribe the problem better with someones help on here.

so has anyone seen this problem before? if so, wtf is it;)

thanks
nick

p.s. heres another example

[QUOTE]Originally posted by maggiore19
[B]i posted yesterday with some examples.....does anyone have a clue as to what could be wrong.

has anyone seen this before. i'm requesting service tomorrow, but i thought i might be able to discribe the problem better with someones help on here.

so has anyone seen this problem before? if so, wtf is it;)

thanks
nick

Have you tried reseting the TV by pressing the Reset button on the front panel?

Originally posted by IronHorse
If someone can indulge me, could you explain how you'd normally use "component" cables as a means to feed input to the TV? I bought a set of component cables today (RCA type ends) and when I ran them from my DVD player, I couldn't get any video to the screen.

I think I set it up correctly and tried to use net command to configure it, and still no picture. Went back to SVHS which works fine, but I'd like to see if the component video cables and that type of connection would really give me any visible difference.

So if you were hooking up the three (Red/Blue/Green) cables from the DVD player, would you use the bottom-most set of inputs on the TV? Is that called Component DTV? Or should I be using Component #1 or Component #2? See its confusing, because those are called "Component" and I'm wondering if Mits means like... one of your "components" (i.e. a VCR)? Well, give me some ideas guys.

Have you checked the settings in your dvd player menu???

[Qoute] Have you tried reseting the TV by pressing the Reset button on the front panel?

i tried that. heck. i even unplugged the set for a minute or so.

nick

Well, I picked up an open box 52725 from Tweeter last night. After spending the last couple of months reading this thread, I had a pretty good idea of what to look for. I did end up getting a set with a slight tilt problem. Trying to decide if I should fix it myself or call for a tech to fix it. Either way, I think I got an excellent deal on it and I love it. I do realize I'm going to have to re-read this thread and some others to get the hang of the service menus and things, but so far so good. Just figured we needed a post of an overall positive experience for a change......

I too have just got through setting my new 62725 up. I was skeptical at first, but Net Command works great. Very happy with it.

One question I do have that I plan on posting on my local cable thread is on most of my HD channels (SD too, but who's watching that), I can see moving pixels when they should be static, especially on solid lighter colors (such as blue or white skys). The noise filters help a little, but it is still noticeable. Correct me if I am wrong, but I contribute this to compression of the HD source. I have an HD DVR for a cable box and I know that it always records in the background (for pause functions). Therefore, it is probably compressing the incoming signal somewhat to save disk space.

I was thinking of getting my cable company to also supply my a non-DVR HD cable box for a comparison. I could split the incoming cable and connect them both to the cable boxes and have them as a different device.

I don't always see these moving pixels at the store. Can someone please assure me its not my TV.

Originally posted by Panzer948
I too have just got through setting my new 62725 up. I was skeptical at first, but Net Command works great. Very happy with it.

One question I do have that I plan on posting on my local cable thread is on most of my HD channels (SD too, but who's watching that), I can see moving pixels when they should be static, especially on solid lighter colors (such as blue or white skys). The noise filters help a little, but it is still noticeable. Correct me if I am wrong, but I contribute this to compression of the HD source. I have an HD DVR for a cable box and I know that it always records in the background (for pause functions). Therefore, it is probably compressing the incoming signal somewhat to save disk space.

I was thinking of getting my cable company to also supply my a non-DVR HD cable box for a comparison. I could split the incoming cable and connect them both to the cable boxes and have them as a different device.

I don't always see these moving pixels at the store. Can someone please assure me its not my TV.

Hi...what you are describing sounds a lot like 'mosquito noise'. Turn your sharpness control way down (maybe all the way to 0) and if this is what you are seeing, it will likely disappear. The picture won't jump out at you as much, but it will be much more natural, and you get rid of the noise. If you don't have a calibration disk, you might want to scan through this thread to see some set ups that people have kindly posted. The out of the box settings are cranked way up in order for the picture to grab your attention in the showroom compared to the sets around it...

Also, HD is generally recorded as a bit stream...there should be no compression at that level. Any compression will be done at the headend of your content provider...somebody correct me if I am wrong on that. Non-digital SD does have to be digitally encoded, and a bad encoder can definitely have an impact on the PQ...

I hope that helps...

-Randy

Thanks Randy,

I haven't calibrated my set yet, as (except for the mosquito noise) looks really good. I have played with the video settings and I am sure that sharpness is either midway or turned all the way up, so this is something I will definitely look at.

I will also back check anyone who has posted threads with favorable settings, unless someone would care to share their's

Thanks,

Panzer,

I've seen what you're talking about, even with OTA HD. And others have complained as well. At first I noticed it frequently, but now it's not too bad. I actually have to look for it. Noticed it last night on 24, with a solid colored wall that was light yellow. For me, decreasing sharpness had no effect, and I don't believe I've affected it with the other settings either. Either I have better signals now, or I've grown to ignore it. I will say it's seldom seen when watching my 480i dvd player, so maybe it's a 'clean signal' phenom.

Panzer,

I've seen what you're talking about, even with OTA HD. And others have complained as well. At first I noticed it frequently, but now it's not too bad. I actually have to look for it. Noticed it last night on 24, with a solid colored wall that was light yellow. It always see these mosquitos whenever there's a light source in a dark environmnet (common on CSI). For me, decreasing sharpness had no effect, and I don't believe I've affected it with the other settings either. Either I have better signals now, or I've grown to ignore it. I will say it's seldom seen when watching my 480i dvd player, so maybe it's a 'clean signal' phenom.

This is a simple (perhaps stupid) question, but how does one select HDMI for an input? I am trying to see if I can get Voom on HDMI and I don't see it listed like the other inputs during the NetCommand set up. I went through the user's manual and did not see it listed except for talking about cables and general hook up stuff.

Thanks,

RH

Originally posted by corrales_avs
This is a simple (perhaps stupid) question, but how does one select HDMI for an input? I am trying to see if I can get Voom on HDMI and I don't see it listed like the other inputs during the NetCommand set up. I went through the user's manual and did not see it listed except for talking about cables and general hook up stuff.

Thanks,

RH

Try the MONLINK input.
I don't know why Mitsubishi didn't just label it HDMI!

I returned my first 52725 because of the mosquito noise or pixelation problem. I have turned my sharpness to 0 and turned my contrast way down as well. I still notice the same problem with my new set with HDTV broadcasts. It's always with solid colors, light background worse than dark colors. I think if you look for it, you will see it. I see it with OTA or cable receiver. I am not too bothered. I like this set better than the Samsung HLP 5663. I love the tuner... my local cable doesn't have high def pbs or fox which I can get ota. Also, with my cable out of the wall I get digital channels and high def CBS, NBC. I can also "eavesdrop" on other peoples pay per view or on demand broadcasts. Does anyone else notice this? my tuner picked up on lots of digital channels...just not always in action unless on demand or pay per view is being watched. I am theorizing that this is a neighborhood thing and I am "eavesdropping"on people in my neighborhood. If someone figures out how to avoid the mosquitoes I would really appreciate it, but I don't find it to be a reason to return the set.

Just wanted to let you guys know that I recently added a Belkin VA1100 UPS to my system and it worked great during the ice storm the other night. We had three power outages... all short, less than a minute off, which is a killer for a dlp bulb (SIH). Everything goes dark except the TV stays on, and then 30 seconds later the power comes back and all is well. Totally transparent.

I have the set plugged into one of the two (2) battery backup plugs... which also have surge protection. I have my DVD, CD player, and other components plugged into the other sockets.

Well, I made the jump and got my WD 62725 today! Only, yesterday I thought I had worked out a great deal from BB on a 525. Well, as luck would have it I swung by Tweeter tonight actually looking for a calibration DVD. Since I had nothing to lose, I entertained the salesguy as I looked at a Mits 62725. Long story short, I got the 725 for less than the deal I had swung at BB the day before. Back to BB to cancel that order, but in my mind well worth the effort.

I noticed on the 725 the antiglare screen made the picture look darker than the Sammy HLP it was next to, but I'm assuming that can be fixed with calibration. I'll check this thread on settings recommendations.

Anyway, 2 questions: Do you recommend their service protection plan? If so, how long? I figure the 2 year will get me by any potential initial problems - after that everything should be good. They offer a 4 year plan with bulb replacement, but upon further inspection it only replaces the bulb IF it goes out during the term (I'm told this is not likely). No service call before the term expires to get a new bulb put in if its still working.

Also, on the calibration DVD, I've heard DVE and Avia, but is there any good recommendation for the 725 that is easy for a novice (not the DVE from what I've read), as well as pertinent to a DLP (which I heard the Avia is not)?

Thanks for any help and looking forward to starting to read through the 100 pages on this thread!

What is "glare"? If Mitsubishi calls those shiny things they put on the front of their TVs "anti-glare screens", then "glare" must have a very different meaning than I imagine.

Originally posted by JTAnderson
What is "glare"? If Mitsubishi calls those shiny things they put on the front of their TVs "anti-glare screens", then "glare" must have a very different meaning than I imagine.

Glare refers to the reflective glare visible on-screen when a light source is situated behind the viewer of between the viewer and the TV. In the OM, Mitsubishi refers to the "shiny thing" as a "Diamond Shield". It's purpose is to provide a protective shield for the screen, and is easily removed by the consumer when preferable. There is even a trim kit available so that the clean "finished" look of the bezel is restored with the protective screen shield removed. For people with kids, pets, etc, the shield is a useful feature. The Mits provides you with this option.

I just got my new mitsubishi WD-52725 a couple of weeks ago. I think it is just awesome. After reading all the comments I could, about the differant complaints people are having with there 52725's I decided I wanted this set anyway. I for one am a Happy camper. Even with the fan noise, and the little glare. It is all Relavent as they say. I believe there are many 52725 owners like my self out here that just love there sets, and want to share the positive on this forum. I do have a question maybe someone can aswer for me. After about two weeks of use I get from time to time when I turn my set on, a message at the bottom of my screen that ask me if I just changed my lamp. I have to choose cancel on my remote to remove this message. It doesn't happen all the time. I called Mitsubishi, and they told me that I need to clean the filter for the lamp on the side of the tv. I told them that I just got the set three weeks ago, I didn't think it needed cleaning already. In the owners manual it tells to clean the filter when you change the lamp, or every so often. We don't smoke in our home. I ask about maybe new firmware, but I have the latest firmware now. I guess there is a firmware that they will send me if my problem was with the cable card. I would appreciate any opinions. thanks Phil

Originally posted by pmorris1
I just got my new mitsubishi WD-52725 a couple of weeks ago. I think it is just awesome.... [snip]

After about two weeks of use I get from time to time when I turn my set on, a message at the bottom of my screen that ask me if I just changed my lamp. ...thanks Phil

I have the same set, and agree it's truly awesome. To the best of my knowledge, the lamp replacement question comes on if the TV has been unplugged. That's the only time I've seen the message. Could you be losing power to the TV somehow?

There are many other threads and discussions about surge suppressors, UPS's, etc, so I won't go into all the details, but....I've got my TV plugged into a Tripplite HT1500 UPS so that if power happens to go out while I'm watching TV, I can shut the TV off and give the lamp time to properly cool down (rather than watching it self-destruct). A relatively cheap investment to protect a $2-300 bulb and $3-4K TV.

The service guys were out today to address my "tilt" and "smudge" issues and I was wondering what the consensus is about tipping servicemen? Do you or don't you? If so, how much?

I really don't know, any comments?

BTW, the tilt was fixed, it's not perfect, but you'd have to put a test pattern to see the non perfection. With Headline News or other normal horizontal telecast lines, it is just fine. They were unable to clean the smudge from my set. They did clean up a lot of the shadows, specs and such, but the 1/16" smudge that I can see from 12' is still there. The service guys now think it is a dead pixel?

It's pretty educational to see the insides of the set. The small trapezoidal mirror near the front of the TV had lots of lint and such as did the lens. The giant mirror on the back of the TV looked pretty clean. The anti glare shield also looked pretty clean.

Originally posted by corrales_avs
The service guys were out today to address my "tilt" and "smudge" issues and I was wondering what the consensus is about tipping servicemen? Do you or don't you? If so, how much?

I really don't know, any comments?

...


Tipping is a topic that could fill up an entire forum by itself, and I've had many "discussions" about it with extended family that disagrees with me (they're cheap). In general, I tip manual labor (typically lower paying jobs) but not technical jobs. In the case of the service person for a high-end TV set, I wouldn't tip but I would definitely offer water or soda, have everything out of the way for them, etc., basically to make their job as easy as possible.

The guys that delivered my set also got a small tip ($10), beverages offered, and I made sure the area for the TV was clear, the path to it was free of obstacles, and even had the cables from the antenna, D* STB and the DVD/VCR laid out and labeled with what input they went to both to make things go quicker and so that I knew what was plugging in where (I had downloaded and read the manual the week before delivery). I didn't expect them to be quite as highly trained as a technician who might be pulling the set apart.

Hard physical labor gets a tip. Technical stuff doesnt, but they probably make more than I do to begin with.

I have noticed on my 52725 when I am watching a local station broadcasting in HD, when I hit the info button on my remote it shows that I am seeing 16x9 HD. It doesn't show any resolution figure . Should it be showing either 720, or the 1080 along with the 16x9? Or am I not really receiving the HDTV signal. I am using a Terk HDTVi indoor antenna. It picks up about 7 hd channels.