Why do you need a custom resolution? 1080P 60hz(59.94hz) is already one of the resolution choices. I plan on using my iscanHD with my 68 series also.(I'll just wait for their future scaler with HDMI inputs instead of upgrading to the HD+) Hopefully I'll be able to test it out this weekend, If I can be home Friday for delivery.
You need a custom resolution because the Samsung 68 does not accept 1920x1080p at 60Hz. Try it with an iScan HD+ and you will get "Mode not supported." I connect up my Mac Mini and it defaults to 59Hz. Change the rez to 60Hz and you get a black screen that says "Mode not supported." Awefully frustrating. Anyone know how to customize the output to 59Hz? Thanks.

The switch box in question in the other thread is also DVI.

Like that switcher, the HD+ passes the HDCP encryption through from the source to the display. The problem with the switcher is that it is only compatible with DVI-HDCP. If either end of the signal chain is DVI, it will work, because the HDCP defaults to the DVI type in that case. But if both ends of the chain are HDMI, it won't work because it can't pass the HDMI-HDCP, so you don't get a 'handshake'.

So I'm wondering if the HD+ will properly pass the HDMI-HDCP through from an HDMI source to an HDMI display.

Hi Josh, need your advice here.

I just paid my deposit for the HD+, now awaiting shipment.

My system comprises 969avi (the equivalent of 59avi) and 434HDE (the equivalent of 4345). Both the 969avi and 434HDE are HDCP-compliant, according to the Owner's Manual.

I intend to have a HDMI-DVI adaptor as the 480i signal goes from my 969avi into the HD+, then another HDMI-DVI adaptor as the 768p signal leaves the HD+ and goes into my Pioneer Media Receiver.

Will I get a proper 'handshake' if I have 2 HDMI-DVI adaptors in the signal path?

I just updated the HD+ to the latest firmware. One thing I noticed is the DVI PC has a much better contrast ratio or say it another way much better blacks. When I chose the DVI V, the picture got washed out very grey. Another example is the black side bars are black with the DVI PC vs the DVI V which is grey.

What is the reason for this? The picture is ALOT better using DVI PC.
I don't know what your display device is, but it sounds like it is expecting PC levels. With PC levels black is at 0, while with video levels it is at 16 (which is what gets encoded on DVDs and other source for black). If your display has adjustable brightness and contrast controls then you could use video levels and adjust the brightness to get the black level right. Either way, you need to have the brightness adjusted correctly so that the display is as dark as possible (or close to it) for things encoded as video black (16), but still shows detail for things above that. This is why the pluge bar tests from things like AVIA test disks are used for adjusting brightness and contrast. You can also adjust the brightness and contrast in the iScan HD, but if the display has them then I might do them there instead.

--Darin

@Josh Z

There you can set separate frame rate defaults for 50hz input signals (PAL) and 60hz input signals (NTSC).

I have tried locking 50 to 50 and 60 to 60 but it doesn't work, if I'm outputting 1080@50 and I insert a NTSC DVD the screen goes black and if I'm on 1080@60 and play a PAL disc the image is shifted bout 1in to the left and kind of zoomed.
I don't think display profiles will work either because here its NTSC an PAL from the same component and on the same input, or I'm I wrong?

Thx.

I need to set my iScan HD+ to output 1920x1080 with a vertical frequency of 59.988 and a horizontal frequency of 66.647. Can I do this and if so, what are the settings to do so? Thank you for your help.

Best Regards,
Adam

I don't know what your display device is, but it sounds like it is expecting PC levels. With PC levels black is at 0, while with video levels it is at 16 (which is what gets encoded on DVDs and other source for black). If your display has adjustable brightness and contrast controls then you could use video levels and adjust the brightness to get the black level right. Either way, you need to have the brightness adjusted correctly so that the display is as dark as possible (or close to it) for things encoded as video black (16), but still shows detail for things above that. This is why the pluge bar tests from things like AVIA test disks are used for adjusting brightness and contrast. You can also adjust the brightness and contrast in the iScan HD, but if the display has them then I might do them there instead.

--Darin

Couldn't I just leave it at the DVI PC setting? My display is a 50" Panasonic plasma 50PHD7UY

I updates the firmware to 2.91 and set my custom resolution for my panasonic plasma 50phd7uy to 1366x768, however on non HD material, I get small scan lines either on the one side or on the the top or the bottom but never all at the same time. I set overscan on the analog channels to 1 to stop it but on the HD channels, when they are not showing a HD image, the scan lines are there. I used the settings that Josh gave me for the panni plasma's.

Anyway to adjust to remove these??

Couldn't I just leave it at the DVI PC setting? My display is a 50" Panasonic plasma 50PHD7UY
You could. But I see two issues. One is that you could still be getting crushing of details just above black. The other is that the source is in video space and expanding it to PC space cannot be done directly. There has to be some rounding that can cause banding in the images. If the processing for the brightness and contrast are done in the display then they could be done in a higher bitspace with less rounding errors than occurs when converting 8 bit source to 8 bit PC level RGB, but I don't know what that plasma has for internal processing. If you don't want to buy a test disk then you could try one of the THX tests on some disks (assuming it isn't widely different from standards).

If you are happy with it on PC levels then you can of course leave it there. You just may get some improvement by using video levels and adjusting the brightness and contrast in the display.

--Darin

You could. But I see two issues. One is that you could still be getting crushing of details just above black. The other is that the source is in video space and expanding it to PC space cannot be done directly. There has to be some rounding that can cause banding in the images. If the processing for the brightness and contrast are done in the display then they could be done in a higher bitspace with less rounding errors than occurs when converting 8 bit source to 8 bit PC level RGB, but I don't know what that plasma has for internal processing. If you don't want to buy a test disk then you could try one of the THX tests on some disks (assuming it isn't widely different from standards).

If you are happy with it on PC levels then you can of course leave it there. You just may get some improvement by using video levels and adjusting the brightness and contrast in the display.

--Darin

Darinp2,
Thanks for the input. How bout this. Should I leave all the values in the panel as default and then use the HD+ controls to adjust the Contract, brightness, etc.

Would that be better? Or should I use the panel controls and not use the HD+ controls

I intend to have a HDMI-DVI adaptor as the 480i signal goes from my 969avi into the HD+, then another HDMI-DVI adaptor as the 768p signal leaves the HD+ and goes into my Pioneer Media Receiver.

Will I get a proper 'handshake' if I have 2 HDMI-DVI adaptors in the signal path?

That's what I'm trying to find out. Sounds like you'll be the first test-case. Try it out and let us know if it works. If not, DVDO does have a 30 day return policy.

I hope this works out, for both of our sakes.

I have tried locking 50 to 50 and 60 to 60 but it doesn't work, if I'm outputting 1080@50 and I insert a NTSC DVD the screen goes black and if I'm on 1080@60 and play a PAL disc the image is shifted bout 1in to the left and kind of zoomed.

You're sure the display accepts both 1080@50 and 1080@60? In the second case you mention, hit the Info button on the remote and confirm what resolution and frame rate is being output after you've put in the PAL disc.

I don't think display profiles will work either because here its NTSC an PAL from the same component and on the same input, or I'm I wrong?

The HD+ will save separate settings for multiple resolutions on the same input. You don't need to set up a new profile for each resolution. It will save them automatically.

If both NTSC and PAL are coming in through the same input, it will default to one batch of settings for NTSC and another for PAL. Did you redo the full set-up for each resolution? I'm guessing you did it once, and when you changed input resolutions the iScan got confused because it doesn't have anything saved for the new resolution.

As far as the PAL picture looking zoomed, check your overscan and picture shift settings. Those are among the things that get saved when you change resolution inputs.

OK.. I have played with the HD+ for a few days now, switching between 480P and native resolution to 1080i-60 and I don't see a difference between them. I have used dvd's as samples analog Comcast channels and even HI-Def stations and other than resizing the image, I can't see any other difference.

My plasma is a 50PHD7UY Panasonic.

Am I doing something wrong? :confused: If not, I'm getting my $$ back and put it elsewhere in my system.

Maybe the plasma has a very good scaler in it.

I need to set my iScan HD+ to output 1920x1080 with a vertical frequency of 59.988 and a horizontal frequency of 66.647. Can I do this and if so, what are the settings to do so? Thank you for your help.

Best Regards,
Adam

Don't you need to be in advanced mode to access those functions? At least that was what I read in the manual.

Don't you need to be in advanced mode to access those functions? At least that was what I read in the manual.
I've been in advanced mode, but the numbers are so confusing I have no idea what to set to what. Sure I know I want 1920 horizontal and 1080 vertical, but there's 6 OTHER settings that I have no idea what to set them to to get 1920x1080p at 59Hz. That's where the problem sets in. If someone can tell me what to set Horizontal Front Porch, Back Porch, and Sync as well as Vertical Front Porch, Back Porch, and Sync, I think I could do it.

By the way, I called DVDO tech support and left 2 messages and have not heard back from them. Not the greatest customer service.

Thanks again.

Best Regards,
Adam

I've been in advanced mode, but the numbers are so confusing I have no idea what to set to what. Sure I know I want 1920 horizontal and 1080 vertical, but there's 6 OTHER settings that I have no idea what to set them to to get 1920x1080p at 59Hz. That's where the problem sets in. If someone can tell me what to set Horizontal Front Porch, Back Porch, and Sync as well as Vertical Front Porch, Back Porch, and Sync, I think I could do it.
If all you want is 1920x1080 at 59 Hz, start with the 1080p format. Then just go into the Output Setup menu, and under the Frame Rate entry set the output rate to unlocked at 59.00 Hz. This is covered at the bottom of page 8 of the iScan HD+ user's manual. You shouldn't need to touch any other settings.

The meanings of each of the video timing parameters is found on page 14 of the manual.

I need to set my iScan HD+ to output 1920x1080 with a vertical frequency of 59.988 and a horizontal frequency of 66.647. Can I do this and if so, what are the settings to do so?
This is little different than what you describe above. The iScan can adjust the output frame rate (aka, vertical frequency) in 0.01 of a Hz, so the closest you can get is 59.99 Hz.

There are probably hundreds of ways to program the video timing to get the horizontal rate you mention. Where did you get the value of 66.647 kHz from? (That's a non-standard 1080p timing.) Does that source provide any more information about what sync or blanking timings should be?

EDIT: Okay, maybe not 'hundreds' of ways. ;)

With a frame rate of 59.99 Hz, you need a bit less than 1,111 lines in a frame to get 66.647 kHz as a horizontal rate. Obviously, that doesn't work, as you can't have fractional scan lines.

Using your original numbers (i.e., 59.988 Hz) gives exactly 1,111 lines per frame. Standard 1080p has 1125 lines per frame, so you have to lose 14 lines from the vertical blanking period if you want to keep 1080 active lines per frame. Without any guidance from the display documentation as to the desired vertical blanking timing, I'd suggest decreasing the vertical front porch by 2 lines, the vertical sync by 3 lines, and the vertical back porch by 9 lines. That should give you the number of lines per frame that the display is looking for. If the image isn't vertically centered after doing this, you may need to play with these a bit. The easiest way is to use vertical shift, which should work as long as the display is happy with the vertical sync pulse width. Overall, though, you need to remove 14 lines from the standard 1080p timing, and these all need to come from some combination of the vertical blanking parameters - front porch, sync, and back porch.

Note that with a 59.94 Hz frame rate (which is what you get if you keep the output frame rate locked to the input) and 1,111 lines per frame, you'll actually get a horizontal rate of 66.593 kHz. Using an unlocked output rate of 59.99 Hz will give you a line rate of 66.649 kHz, which is very close to the display's spec. You will likely get some motion stutter, however, as the iScan repeats frames to maintain the higher frame rate.

- Dale Adams

There are probably hundreds of ways to program the video timing to get the horizontal rate you mention..................
- Dale Adams

Dale,
Which are the video timings that effect the horizontal rate?

Which are the video timings that effect the horizontal rate?
All of them.

EDIT: Actually, that's not strictly true. If the vertical rate is held constant, then the only thing that affects the horizontal line rate is the vertical timing parameters. If the number of lines in a frame is increased, then the line rate increases; if the number of lines is decreased, then the line rate decreases. The line rate is simply the vertical frequency times the number of lines in a frame.

- Dale Adams

That's what I'm trying to find out. Sounds like you'll be the first test-case. Try it out and let us know if it works. If not, DVDO does have a 30 day return policy.

I hope this works out, for both of our sakes.

Don't I love being the first test-case.

Seriously though, I'm actually surprised I can be the first one to try this out. Thought I read a number of posts here (in the Pioneer thread maybe) that some 59avi owners have successfully mated with the HD+.

Maybe they used analogue 480i to go from 59avi to HD+. That I guess will have to be our fall-back plan. Don't know whether there's a 30-day return period for customers in this li'l island of Singapore.

(Hahaha just noticed my clumsy sentence, but I ain't gonna change it!)

Thought I read a number of posts here (in the Pioneer thread maybe) that some 59avi owners have successfully mated with the HD+.
Maybe they used analogue 480i to go from 59avi to HD+.

dan jute.

I'm using the 59avi with the IScan HD+ w/o any problems over digital, not analogue. Works fine for me at 480i over HDMI to the IScan, then from the DVI out of the IScan to my projector. I know other AVS members doing it also w/o any problems.

dan jute.

I'm using the 59avi with the IScan HD+ w/o any problems over digital, not analogue. Works fine for me at 480i over HDMI to the IScan, then from the DVI out of the IScan to my projector. I know other AVS members doing it also w/o any problems.

Yahooo!!! Levesque I could mate with you!

Can't wait for the HD+ to arrive.

Btw, have you compared the two? (analogue vs digital into HD+) Is there actually a discernible difference and which do you prefer?

Levesque,
To be clear, your HD+ has been updated with the latest firmware allowing the 480i digital in?
TM

Only an iScan HD+ with Version 2.91 production software or 2.87 Beta software can process 480i over DVI.

All of them.

EDIT: Actually, that's not strictly true. If the vertical rate is held constant, then the only thing that affects the horizontal line rate is the vertical timing parameters. If the number of lines in a frame is increased, then the line rate increases; if the number of lines is decreased, then the line rate decreases. The line rate is simply the vertical frequency times the number of lines in a frame.

- Dale Adams

Dale, thanks for the explanations. Let me see if I have understood you correctly.
The specs of the DVI input blade to my Panny 7UY are:
1366x768@60Hz; hor 48.36kHz; vert 60.0hz so to achieve 48.36 I need 806 lines per frame ( 48360 / 60 = 806). Is that correct?

You quote in a previous post that standard 1080p has 1125 lines per frame, so would I be right in assuming that for 768p there are 800 lines per frame (768/1080 * 1125 =800). If this is all correct, then I need to 'add' 6 lines to the vertical blanking period?

Finally, is the 'vertical total' number in the iScan Output Timing Controls the same as the lines per frame? In other words I need to adjust the individual parameters to that total to 806?

EDIT: Forget the previous paragraph. I just read the manual and that is exactly what it says!

Many thanks, and I do appreciate your patience with us 'newbies'

I'm using the 59avi with the IScan HD+ w/o any problems over digital, not analogue. Works fine for me at 480i over HDMI to the IScan, then from the DVI out of the IScan to my projector. I know other AVS members doing it also w/o any problems.

Yes, but is the projector DVI or HDMI? The question is whether the HD+ will correctly pass the HDCP encryption if the signal comes from an HDMI source, goes into the iScan, and then is output to an HDMI display.

DVI->DVI, DVI->HDMI, and HDMI->DVI should all work. It's only HDMI->HDMI that is in question.

Levesque,
To be clear, your HD+ has been updated with the latest firmware allowing the 480i digital in?


Yes. Working like a charm, with great results.

Yes, but is the projector DVI

Sorry, I wasn't clear about that, and you are right. My projector is a JVC HX1U with DVI in. So it's HDMI-DVI to IScan, then DVI-DVI to the projector.

Dale, thanks for the explanations. Let me see if I have understood you correctly.
The specs of the DVI input blade to my Panny 7UY are:
1366x768@60Hz; hor 48.36kHz; vert 60.0hz so to achieve 48.36 I need 806 lines per frame ( 48360 / 60 = 806). Is that correct?
Are you sure it really needs 60.00 Hz? Normal NTSC video is 59.94 Hz, and if you run the iScan in source-locked mode that's what you'll get as the output frame rate. I would try locked mode first to avoid frame rate conversion artifacts. Your math is absolutely correct, however, and it sounds like 806 lines per frame is the right value.

You quote in a previous post that standard 1080p has 1125 lines per frame, so would I be right in assuming that for 768p there are 800 lines per frame (768/1080 * 1125 =800). If this is all correct, then I need to 'add' 6 lines to the vertical blanking period?
Unfortunately, it doesn't scale like this. 1080p is a well-defined standard, and so has very specific timing values. That's not the case for 768p, as there isn't a single, universally adopted video timing in use. Your best bet is probably to start with the iScan's predefined 1366x768 timing, and then add/subtract lines from vertical blanking as needed.

- Dale Adams

Yes. Working like a charm, with great results.

Sorry, I wasn't clear about that, and you are right. My projector is a JVC HX1U with DVI in. So it's HDMI-DVI to IScan, then DVI-DVI to the projector.
I've had similar success with a 59AVi running HDMI-to-DVI to the iScan, and then DVI-to-DVI to a Sharp 37" LCD display. I haven't had a chance to try HDMI in on the Sharp.

- Dale Adams

Are you sure it really needs 60.00 Hz? Normal NTSC video is 59.94 Hz, and if you run the iScan in source-locked mode that's what you'll get as the output frame rate. I would try locked mode first to avoid frame rate conversion artifacts. Your math is absolutely correct, however, and it sounds like 806 lines per frame is the right value.
- Dale Adams

Yes 60 is right. 59.94 is listed for some other resolutions.

Unfortunately, it doesn't scale like this. 1080p is a well-defined standard, and so has very specific timing values. That's not the case for 768p, as there isn't a single, universally adopted video timing in use. Your best bet is probably to start with the iScan's predefined 1366x768 timing, and then add/subtract lines from vertical blanking as needed.

- Dale Adams

Thanks. Trial and error; I love it, drives my wife crazy. I guess that I could also email panasonic tech support.

Yes 60 is right. 59.94 is listed for some other resolutions.
Very bizarre. It (correctly) takes 59.94 Hz for 480p and 1080i, but not for 720p? You might want to try 59.94 anyway, just to see what happens. It's easy to do - just set the output frame rate to 60 Hz locked instead of unlocked at 60.00 Hz.

- Dale Adams

Has anyone hooked up a HD+ with one of the new Sammy HLR 1080p models? If so, did you see any improvement compared to what the Sammy does internally on its own? My Sammy HLR 6768 will soon be coming and I might pick up a HD+ if it is worth it. Thanks for any input!

Yes. Working like a charm, with great results.

Sorry, I wasn't clear about that, and you are right. My projector is a JVC HX1U with DVI in. So it's HDMI-DVI to IScan, then DVI-DVI to the projector.

I've had similar success with a 59AVi running HDMI-to-DVI to the iScan, and then DVI-to-DVI to a Sharp 37" LCD display. I haven't had a chance to try HDMI in on the Sharp.

- Dale Adams

My HD+ will arrive in 2 - 4 weeks. I will chime in here to report whether HDMI > HD+ > HDMI works or not.

Although I do hope that AVS members who have already tried HDMI > HD+ > HDMI could share their experiences here first before my unit arrives. Curiosity gives the cat nine lives.

psychdoc - From what I can tell from the manual, the only input that supports a 1080p input signal is the PC (VGA) input. Here is quote from the manual of the HL-R5668W/HL-R6168W/HL-R6768W (page 141):


Problem: I want to view the clearest picture on the TV in 1080p resolution.

Possible Solution: The best visual quality is supported for 1080p input signal.
➔ To view TV in the best visual quality of 1080p, connect to a PC whose graphic output is WUXGA (1920 x 1080).

Thanks Josh,
I think I need to explain a bit further. The Sammy 1080p really isn't 1080p as it has been widely reported not to accept anything higher than 1080i through HDMI. The sammy's internal gear, however, upscales a HDMI 1080i input signal to a final 1080p pic. With the sammy being very new compared to the DVDO HD+ I don't know if the Sammy will do a better job getting to 1080i compared to the Sammy prior to the final step of the upscaling to 1080p. Which would yield a better picture, the Sammy getting a 480 signal and doing all the scaling or the DVDO HD+ getting the signal and doing most of the work prior to the Sammy's final upscaling step? I would think an external scaler dedicated to this job would add quality or I could be wrong and it would just mess things up and cause the sammy extra work. Any thoughts?

The connection I am considering is a dvi to hdmi as the sammy has hdmi but no dvi and my research says that the HD+ only has DVI. This would also work, right?

I own a Pioneer 59avi that I run into a Iscan HD+ using a monster 400 Hdmi to Dvi cable and a standard Dvi cable from the Iscan HD+ to my Hitachi RPTV.
The picture looks incredible!
The Iscan HD+ has the newest 2.91 firmware.
I also just sold another Iscan HD+ I owned that also worked perfectly but it had the 2.87 beta firmware.
One question to others (levesque)?
If I use the "direct link" setting on the pioneer I do not see the BTB bar using the DVE setup dvd,so I have to use video 1 to change the black setup to 7.5 just to get the BTB bar.
Is this the way your setup works ? or do you see all 3 bars using "direct link"?

Which would yield a better picture, the Sammy getting a 480 signal and doing all the scaling or the DVDO HD+ getting the signal and doing most of the work prior to the Sammy's final upscaling step? I would think an external scaler dedicated to this job would add quality or I could be wrong and it would just mess things up and cause the sammy extra work. Any thoughts?

I agree that the external scaler would probably net a better picture, but I guess we are going to have to wait for feedback from people with this setup.

The connection I am considering is a dvi to hdmi as the sammy has hdmi but no dvi and my research says that the HD+ only has DVI. This would also work, right?

There should be no problems using the DVI output of the HD+, set to 1080i, and connecting to one of the HDMI inputs on the Samsung.

The Sammy 1080p really isn't 1080p as it has been widely reported not to accept anything higher than 1080i through HDMI.

It's also not 1920x1080 pixels. It's "wobulated" 1080p.

Which brings up an interesting question for scaler-users: What is the best "native resolution" to feed to a wobulated 1080p display? Is is 1920x1080, or the actual number of real pixels the panel uses?

(I will edit this to say that I could be wrong about the Samsung "1080p" sets being wobulated. That was my initial understanding, but there has been some debate in the meantime. I still think it's probably wobulated, but I could be wrong.)

Well Josh I would say since a wobulated image is half of the 1920 x1080 pixels interlaced that would be 960 x 540 correct? If this is correct a ISCAN HD+ would still work very well right?
Otherwise if your talking 960 X 1080 overlapping ,960x 1080 would be the ideal signal to input? :rolleyes:
If 960 X 1080i is the signal to input the ISCAN HD+ would still do the job I think.

I agree that the external scaler would probably net a better picture, but I guess we are going to have to wait for feedback from people with this setup.



There should be no problems using the DVI output of the HD+, set to 1080i, and connecting to one of the HDMI inputs on the Samsung.
Well I have the exact setup you mention and I have connected both a SD DirecTV Tivo as well as Denon 2910. The Tivo is connected via S-Vid and the 2910 has been modded with an SDI board, as well as tested direct to TV via HDMI.

The Samsung is set to 1080p via the VGA input from the iScan. When directly connected, it is set to 1080i via the HDMI input.

I can state without question that the iScan HD+ scaling and deinterlacing is head over heels better than the internal scaler in the Samsung 68 Series DLPs. The internal scaler is not bad, but compared to the iScan, it's very noticable.

If all you want is 1920x1080 at 59 Hz, start with the 1080p format. Then just go into the Output Setup menu, and under the Frame Rate entry set the output rate to unlocked at 59.00 Hz. This is covered at the bottom of page 8 of the iScan HD+ user's manual. You shouldn't need to touch any other settings.

The meanings of each of the video timing parameters is found on page 14 of the manual.


This is little different than what you describe above. The iScan can adjust the output frame rate (aka, vertical frequency) in 0.01 of a Hz, so the closest you can get is 59.99 Hz.

There are probably hundreds of ways to program the video timing to get the horizontal rate you mention. Where did you get the value of 66.647 kHz from? (That's a non-standard 1080p timing.) Does that source provide any more information about what sync or blanking timings should be?

EDIT: Okay, maybe not 'hundreds' of ways. ;)

With a frame rate of 59.99 Hz, you need a bit less than 1,111 lines in a frame to get 66.647 kHz as a horizontal rate. Obviously, that doesn't work, as you can't have fractional scan lines.

Using your original numbers (i.e., 59.988 Hz) gives exactly 1,111 lines per frame. Standard 1080p has 1125 lines per frame, so you have to lose 14 lines from the vertical blanking period if you want to keep 1080 active lines per frame. Without any guidance from the display documentation as to the desired vertical blanking timing, I'd suggest decreasing the vertical front porch by 2 lines, the vertical sync by 3 lines, and the vertical back porch by 9 lines. That should give you the number of lines per frame that the display is looking for. If the image isn't vertically centered after doing this, you may need to play with these a bit. The easiest way is to use vertical shift, which should work as long as the display is happy with the vertical sync pulse width. Overall, though, you need to remove 14 lines from the standard 1080p timing, and these all need to come from some combination of the vertical blanking parameters - front porch, sync, and back porch.

Note that with a 59.94 Hz frame rate (which is what you get if you keep the output frame rate locked to the input) and 1,111 lines per frame, you'll actually get a horizontal rate of 66.593 kHz. Using an unlocked output rate of 59.99 Hz will give you a line rate of 66.649 kHz, which is very close to the display's spec. You will likely get some motion stutter, however, as the iScan repeats frames to maintain the higher frame rate.

- Dale Adams
Dale,

You rock man! I changed the settings in my iScan to what you said and sure enough the display is now showing true 1080p on my Samsung 5668! I am experiencing no picture jitter and the display is stunning. Thank you so much for your help, I really appreciate it!

It states on page 130 of the Samsung 5668 manual that in order to get 1920x1080 you need to set the Vertical Frequency to 59.988 and the Horizontal Frequency to 66.647. It also states that the Vertical Polarity needs to be N and the Horizontal Polarity needs to be P. I have no idea what that means, but it's working nonetheless.

I read the DVDO manual and read about the other settings, but it really didn't explain what Front Porch and Back Porch are. I don't understand what they do, but I'm happy my display is now true 1080p.

Best Regards,
Adam

It also states that the Vertical Polarity needs to be N and the Horizontal Polarity needs to be P. I have no idea what that means, but it's working nonetheless.


This is sync polarity that is referenced. You can adjust sync polarity in the 'Output Setup' menu and the 'Sync' submenu. Try setting the sync to 'H+/V-'

Horizontal Polarity needs to be P = H+ (Positive Sync)
Vertical Polarity needs to be N = V- (Negative Sync)

Enversions,
Thanks for the input. I also have the denon 2910 (no sdi) so I was further interested in your comments. I think I just might have to try out my first scaler and get a HD+. With all the concern with possible lip sync issues on the Sammy 68's, the HD+ might also help with the processing speed or with the audio delay feature, if needed.
I never considered connecting through the VGA..... is it better than through the HDMI? Thanks!!!!!!

Hi Dale,
...
1920x1200 @ 60Hz
PowerStrip timing parameters:
1920x1200=1920,40,32,56,1200,1,3,28,151125,2308
Generic timing details for 1920x1200:
HFP=40 HSW=32 HBP=56 kHz=74 VFP=1 VSW=3 VBP=28 Hz=60


i'm trying to get 1920 x 1200 @60Hz on my Dell 2405 TFT monitor. I have the monitor hooked up through VGA. From my PC VGA 1920 x 1200 does work on the Dell. With above values 1920 x 1200 from the iScan HD+ does not work.

When I start from the 1080p profile the Dell will show a perfect 1920 x 1080 @ 60 Hz image. After I change the output format settings to anything close to 1920 x 1200 (such as above suggested settings) the Dell will show a 1600 x 1200 @ 60 Hz image.

after posting this I hooked up the iScan HD+ through the DVI-D input and it worked without a problem with the Dell on 1920x1200@60Hz. So I rephrase my question ;)

Is this a hardware limitation of the HD+ VGA output, might it be related to VGA cablinbg or a fault in the current firmware? Otherwise I would have to rethink my setup and route my PC also through the iScan DVI passthrough option.

Dale,

You rock man! I changed the settings in my iScan to what you said and sure enough the display is now showing true 1080p on my Samsung 5668! I am experiencing no picture jitter and the display is stunning. Thank you so much for your help, I really appreciate it!

It states on page 130 of the Samsung 5668 manual that in order to get 1920x1080 you need to set the Vertical Frequency to 59.988 and the Horizontal Frequency to 66.647. It also states that the Vertical Polarity needs to be N and the Horizontal Polarity needs to be P. I have no idea what that means, but it's working nonetheless.

I read the DVDO manual and read about the other settings, but it really didn't explain what Front Porch and Back Porch are. I don't understand what they do, but I'm happy my display is now true 1080p.

Best Regards,
Adam

That's big news! I was under the impression that none of the 2005 1080p native display Tv's could accept a native 1080p signal over any of their inputs. How are you sending this 1080p signal to the Samsung? Analog or DVI or HDMi?

Sorry if this has already been asked but I just ordered the Pioneer Elite 59avi
and understand this scaler is an awesome combination with it and haven't
yet taken the time to read through all 35 pages of this thread.

I believe the Pioneer outputs 10bit over HDMI so it is an important consider that
the 10bits is kept throughout the processing and outputted via 10bits over
HDMI ( since DVI is limited to 8 bits ).

Hello All,

Just purchased my iScan HD+ a couple of days ago, and have spent the last few hours calibrating my display and sources to it. One thing I have noticed is that the iScan HD+ doesn't appear to "fully" pass the "blacker than black" bar on the pluge test from Digital Video Essentials, is this normal? I currently have my DVD player (Denon DVD5900) connected to the HD+ via component (480i waitng for my pixelmagic SDI mod kit to come in on Monday) and have my HD+ connected via DVI to my Sony GWIV 50" LCD rear projectction (720p). I can barely see the below black bar regardless of how high the black level on the display and HD+ are set, however using the HD+ test patters the below black is clearly visible, and before adding the HD+ I was clearly able to see it direct from the DVD to the TV via component or DVI.

Any ideas what I am doing wrong?

Thanks for your replies in advance,

Half

Half- Are you using 'DVI-Video' or 'DVI-PC' in the 'Output Setup' menu?

tonydeluce - The HD+ will never have an HDMI input or output. There will be a future product that does.

could be caused by "output setup" "A/D" setting of the HD+ set to "DVIV". Change it to "DVIP" for full 0-255 range.

[edit ok i'm too slow at typing :rolleyes: ]

tonydeluce - The HD+ will never have an HDMI input or output. There will be a future product that does.

Thanks Josh. Is there any anticipated release date? Any info at all on its
capabilities?

tony -You will need to wait for an official announcement of this product, which should be very soon. This announcement will have complete specs, pricing and availability.

tony -You will need to wait for an official announcement of this product, which should be very soon. This announcement will have complete specs, pricing and availability.

YAY! :D

Josh,

Can you explain to me why there is so much difference in the picture output between DVI V and DVI PC? I noticed that the PC is alot blacker and to me looks alot better. THe DVI Video maskes the whole picture with a greyish overlay and makes everything looked washed out and the contract ratio looks bad against the DVI PC output.

Thanks

Half- Are you using 'DVI-Video' or 'DVI-PC' in the 'Output Setup' menu?

Josh,

Tried both, but it didn't seem to make a difference, other than increasing the contrast range. The below black bar was still very faint when viewed through the DVD5900/HD+

Half

tony -You will need to wait for an official announcement of this product, which should be very soon. This announcement will have complete specs, pricing and availability.

Thanks Josh! I will definitely be waiting. Hopefully it has multiple HDMI
inputs and at least one HDMI output...

I think it's been stated that it'll be 4x1 HDMI. BTW I did the fw update last night, no problems, and am now enjoying 480i sent from my Pioneer 59avi letting the HD+ do its magic :)

TM

Anthony, Are you using "direct link" from the 59avi player or one of the memory settings?
If I use direct link I get no BTB information so I use memory 1 with a 7.5 setup as opposed to 0 and turn down the contrast on the HD+ to -9 to set it up correctly.

tony -You will need to wait for an official announcement of this product, which should be very soon. This announcement will have complete specs, pricing and availability.



YAY! twice. :)

Anthony, Are you using "direct link" from the 59avi player or one of the memory settings?
If I use direct link I get no BTB information so I use memory 1 with a 7.5 setup as opposed to 0 and turn down the contrast on the HD+ to -9 to set it up correctly.

in the pio59 thread it was mentioned to get both BTB and WTW in 480i, u need to set IRE to 7.5 and use HDMI Enhanced. (I know IRE level should have nothing to do with the digital output, but apparently the firmware works this way) U may want to give it a try.

Josh,

Any news on the RS232 problem?

Can you explain to me why there is so much difference in the picture output between DVI V and DVI PC? I noticed that the PC is alot blacker and to me looks alot better. THe DVI Video maskes the whole picture with a greyish overlay and makes everything looked washed out and the contract ratio looks bad against the DVI PC output
Quick answer from another iScan user ;)
For DVD video black is defined as the value 16 (on a 0..255 range) and white as 235 thus it does not use the total range. Video equipment should by this definition show total black at an output level of 16. By changing the DVDO setting to DVI PC you will output the total range from 0..255.
With a display setup correctly according the video standard you would loose detail in black and whites by using the DVI PC setup.

Just downloaded and installed the latest firmware on my HD+.
Manual addition shows you can save brightness, contrast etc. per input.
Can someone please explain how exactly this is done?
Do I switch to some input and adjust the settings, and save them as 1, switch a different input, adjust and save as 2, and so on?
And how can I load the settings with the remote?
It seems much more logical to me the HD+ remembers the per input settings automatically...
Still, I find myself constantly altering the luminance when switching between TV and DVD...
Same for the pan & zoom settings, how do I call one of the set of settings on the remote?

Thanks for the heads up c722!
I set the memory 1 on the 59avi for 7.5, enhanced and was able to put the iscan HD+ brightness back to 0.
I'm getting blacker than black and the picture looks better than it ever has!
Color and tint appear the same. Thanks!

It seems much more logical to me the HD+ remembers the per input settings automatically...

This is what it is supposed to do. It works fine on mine.

c722 and StevieC,
Sorry I didn't provide more info the first time. I am indeed using memory1 on the pio59, set to 7.5 and HDMI enhanced.
Best,
TM

I have managed to set up a new (B stock) HD+ with my Runco CRT front projector (980) and am very happy with 720p image. Problem is, image keeps moving to the left. The only way I can find to recenter image is to select another format resolution on HD+ and then switch back, after which it starts moving left again. The phosphor saver function on the Runco is turned off and I did not have this problem with my old Faroudja processor (RIP).

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Ken

Found the answer to my own question in regards to the iScan HD+ not passing the blacker than black signal from my Denon DVD5900 (component input). Found that I needed to set the DVD player up for 7.5 IRE, instead of the 0 IRE I was using when passing the signal directly to my display. It appears that the iScan expects a 7.5 IRE level at it's inputs.

Thanks to all who poster their possible fixes for my issue.

Half

Getting my SDI mod done tomorrow, can't wait to see what kind of improvement I can get from a pure digital pathway.

I apologize for asking this question (I could swear I already have, but cannot find the post).

I have a HR10-250 connected to a Sony Qualia 006, connected via HDMI directly between the two. I have the HR10-250 set to output 1080i regardless of the channel. I have mosquito in the picture on SD, and noise on both SD and HD. I was looking for something to make the picture the best it can be. Don't get me wrong, the Qualia is awsome, and if I crank up the noise reduction, I loose the noise. What I'm looking for is something to take out the mosquito and sports/motion pixilation in HD.

Are these areas that can be addressed by the DVDO products?

I apologize for asking this question (I could swear I already have, but cannot find the post).

I have a HR10-250 connected to a Sony Qualia 006, connected via HDMI directly between the two. I have the HR10-250 set to output 1080i regardless of the channel. I have mosquito in the picture on SD, and noise on both SD and HD. I was looking for something to make the picture the best it can be. Don't get me wrong, the Qualia is awsome, and if I crank up the noise reduction, I loose the noise. What I'm looking for is something to take out the mosquito and sports/motion pixilation in HD.

Are these areas that can be addressed by the DVDO products?

What is your source for HD (Dish, DirectTV, Voom, Cable, etc.)? You are probably experience bandwith issues (excess compression) more than anything, not likely something that an iScan or any other product is going to eliminate. The bandwith demands of HD, especially fast action sporting events are extremely high. Most HD providers focus their bandwith allotments to quantity of channels rather than higher bit rates that are required by such broadcasts. Unfortunatley its no different than DVD movies that pack too many "extras" and/or soundtracks on one disc. The bigger the display the more these limitations will manifest themselves.

Sorry I couldn't be more helpful....

Half

I noticed there were a couple questons of what you would feed the
the 1080p wobulated DLPs from HD+.

The 1080p Samsungs will not accept 1080p signal over HDMI - only 1080i -
but they will accept a 1080p signal via VGA.

Also, the wobulated 1080p DLPs display the entire 1920x1080
resolution but they do it with two 8ms subframes of 960x1080
each resulting in a native 1080p60fps image.

Most likely the best signal to feed the Samsung from the next gen HD+
would be 1080i over HDMI and let the Samsung de-interlace unless
the next gen HD+ product will have a vga output at 1080p60fps
which *might* be better since you could then bypass the Samsung
de-interlacer ( and I assume the next-gen HD+ will be better ).

[QUOTE=Halfrican]What is your source for HD (Dish, DirectTV, Voom, Cable, etc.)?

The HR10-250 is the HD Tivo only offered by DirecTV

I also have the HD Tivo..... but I am not smart enough to know what mosquito looks like......... and I ain't looking for it either!

Those Da%& little buggers are bad enough in real life, I don't need them in the Theater!

[QUOTE=Halfrican]What is your source for HD (Dish, DirectTV, Voom, Cable, etc.)?

The HR10-250 is the HD Tivo only offered by DirecTV

I also have the HD Tivo..... but I am not smart enough to know what mosquito looks like......... and I ain't looking for it either!

Those Da%& little buggers are bad enough in real life, I don't need them in the Theater!

Sorry not a DirectTV user (my bad) but like Dish, Voom, and Cable, the providers are always required to make a decision between Quality (high bit rate) and Quanity (more channels). Most providers always lean to Quantity as this is what the average (not videophile) consumer is willing to pay for. The providers can't justify the cost of HD or SD transmission if they cannot "capture" enough consumer base. Unfortunately for us "Videophiles" most consumers wouldn't pay the increased premiums required to justify the cost of the additional bandwith required (and in the case of cable, limited bandwith available) to provide us with the high bit rate transmission we would prefer. As an example, consider the limited appeal to the mass market for Sony's SuperBit DVD's, most consumers would rather have the alternate ending, choice of aspect ration, and deleted scenes offered by the "collectors editions" of the same movies.

Videophiles are a VERY small percentage of the broadcasters consumer base, which unfortunately means we almost always have to settle for less than optimum performance.

Bottom line: IMHO, MPEG compression artifacts (specifically bandwith related ones) are almost always the most annoying aspect of HD and SD digital transmissions with todays technologies. Let's hope that HD-DVD and Blue Ray can address this issue for the Videophile market.

Half

Half................

Now I see the problem....... you are from Alaska! Those Da&* mosquito's up there are the size of B-29's!!!

Half................

Now I see the problem....... you are from Alaska! Those Da&* mosquito's up there are the size of B-29's!!!

No crap! And those are just the infants you wouldn't believe the full size ones! Just the other I was filming one with my Hi-Def Camcorder and I couldn't even display it full size on my 120" 16x9 screen!

LMAOF

Half

Hi,

I connected HD+ to HS50 using DVI-HDMI cable(VGA also tried), but I'm having real trouble getting a solid picture. The trouble is in 1-pixel vertical and horizontal lines test patterns, there are vertical lines of interference that I am unable get solid.

I have tried 720p50 and 720p60 with different sync( h+/v+ etc) and timing settings. I have underscanned the picture to value 18, this value gives perfect test pattern for frame and geometry, but I think is not the problem.

Can anybody tell what are the correct output settings for HD+. Maybe there is a problem in default output timings? Could somebody help, cause I'm getting desperate.

The best VGA output settings would also be appreciated.

There are a few possibilities:
1. As the source is digital, noise is unlikely to be the problem (as it would be in analog sources), but I would still investigate the cable, particularly if you have a spare.

2. As I recall the HS50 had some problems with getting native rate and there were some firmware updates to resolve that.

OK guys, I just got my HD+ with SDI to replace my Immersive HoloI HTPC with a GeForce very high end card and I am ecstatic. The picture compares very favorably. Color saturation is much better and black levels and shadow detail has impreoved tremendously. Deinterlacing seems as good as the Fli2200 that is in the Immersive.

Anyway, here is the question I have.

I have a Marquee 9500LC running at 1440x960. I am tremedously confused on how to set up the Display, Screen, Frame and Source AR. If I set it all up as 1.78 (on a widescreen DVD), the heigth is correct, but I lose 4-5 inches of overscan on each side of the screen. In order to squeeze the image on my 16x9 screen so that I see all of the DVD's image, I need to set up the Display to be about 1.91. Knowing that DVD's resolution is 720x480 and that I am doubling that and projecting it onto a 16x9 screen, I am not sure which way to set up all of these settings. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Pablo

JoeFinn,

If you want to use the VGA out to get 1:1, you need to go to the HS-51 picture settings and use the dot phase adjustments while you are looking at the test pattern from the HD+. You will see it when you get the 1:1. If you use the vertical line test pattern it is a little easier. Just use the standard 720p60 from the Hd+. Oh yeah, you have to turn the APA (auto pixel alignemnt) off, or it will keep moving it out of 1:1. That is on the HS-51 also.

While you are at it, can you look at the blue geometry test pattern from the HD+ over VGA out and tell me if you see the slight waves in the blue fields? I see this with VGA out, but not HDMI. Thanks.

I have a Marquee 9500LC running at 1440x960. I am tremedously confused on how to set up the Display, Screen, Frame and Source AR. If I set it all up as 1.78 (on a widescreen DVD), the heigth is correct, but I lose 4-5 inches of overscan on each side of the screen. In order to squeeze the image on my 16x9 screen so that I see all of the DVD's image, I need to set up the Display to be about 1.91. Knowing that DVD's resolution is 720x480 and that I am doubling that and projecting it onto a 16x9 screen, I am not sure which way to set up all of these settings.
The Display and Screen values are the aspect ratios of your projector and projection screen, respectively. You have a CRT projector, so it almost certainly has a native 4:3 raster area. If you're using the full 4:3 area then the Display value should be set to 4:3. You may have it configured to use only a subset of the full 4:3 area (e.g., vertically compressed so that an incoming video signal only uses a 16:9 area), and, if so, you need to set the Display value to whatever you have set up the projector to do. The Screen parameter should be set to the aspect ratio of your projection screen. If you're using a 4:3 screen, then set Screen to 4:3. If you're using a wider screen then enter whatever the screen aspect ratio is. (There are exceptions to all of this, but this should be a good starting point.)

The input's Frame value is the aspect ratio of the overall source image. There are typically only 2 possibilities - 4:3 and 16:9. HD sources and 'enhanced' or 'anamorphic' DVDs are 16:9, while most other sources are 4:3. The Active Input Aspect Ratio (AIAR) is the area of the full source image that's actually being used for the image. For instance, if you have an 'anamorphic' DVD with a 2.35:1 widescreen movie on it, the Frame value should be set to 16:9 and the AIAR should be set to 2.35:1.

If you still have objectionable overscan, you may need to adjust the raster size on your projector, or alter the blanking intervals of the iScan's output timing.

If your iScan did not come with the Product Guide Addendum for the 2.91 software release, you should download it from the DVDO website. It explains all these settings in more detail. If you're still having problems, give DVDO tech support a call and they can walk you through the iScan setup.

- Dale Adams

I am running the latest firmware in my scaler and have some troubles with the VGA output of my iScan HD+,
1- VGA output is limited to 1920 x 1080 and cannot display 1920 x 1200.
2- VGA output depends on selected input

ad 1 output over DVI is ok but setting 1920 x 1200 over VGA does not work. I know that the Dell 2405 display and Oehlbach VGA cable are ok as I can get a perfect 1920 x 1200 picture with these from my PC.

ad 2 when I select svideo input and configure my HD+ such that VGA outputs 720p to my Panasonic AE700 everything is fine and the picture is as very good. When I change to a RGBs input the Panasonics picture goes black. The same svideo and RGBs inputs work over the DVI output to the Dell 2405.

Is the VGA output supposed (not) to work like this?

The Display and Screen values are the aspect ratios of your projector and projection screen, respectively. You have a CRT projector, so it almost certainly has a native 4:3 raster area. If you're using the full 4:3 area then the Display value should be set to 4:3. You may have it configured to use only a subset of the full 4:3 area (e.g., vertically compressed so that an incoming video signal only uses a 16:9 area), and, if so, you need to set the Display value to whatever you have set up the projector to do. The Screen parameter should be set to the aspect ratio of your projection screen. If you're using a 4:3 screen, then set Screen to 4:3. If you're using a wider screen then enter whatever the screen aspect ratio is. (There are exceptions to all of this, but this should be a good starting point.)

The input's Frame value is the aspect ratio of the overall source image. There are typically only 2 possibilities - 4:3 and 16:9. HD sources and 'enhanced' or 'anamorphic' DVDs are 16:9, while most other sources are 4:3. The Active Input Aspect Ratio (AIAR) is the area of the full source image that's actually being used for the image. For instance, if you have an 'anamorphic' DVD with a 2.35:1 widescreen movie on it, the Frame value should be set to 16:9 and the AIAR should be set to 2.35:1.

If you still have objectionable overscan, you may need to adjust the raster size on your projector, or alter the blanking intervals of the iScan's output timing.

If your iScan did not come with the Product Guide Addendum for the 2.91 software release, you should download it from the DVDO website. It explains all these settings in more detail. If you're still having problems, give DVDO tech support a call and they can walk you through the iScan setup.

- Dale Adams

Thanks Dale,

that is what I thought, I am not using the 4:3 area of the CRT, it is squeezed to 16x9. My only issue with using the geometry settings on my CRT is that when I use the pass-thru output for my PC, it has different timing values and the overscan of the PC does not match the overscan of the Iscan. So you are saying that if I make both of them match, through the Iscan's output timing, then all should be OK?

Thanks again

Pablo

Hello All,

Just wanted to express my shock when I loaded the first DVD into my newley modded Denon DVD5900 now connected via SDI to my iScan HD+. I expected some improvement, but holy cow, what I got was not "some" at all. I have always that the output of my 5900 was a little soft, and the macroblocking drove me nuts, with the new SDI mod and iScan running the processing I can truly say that I have only seen one DVD player outperform it (DVD5910) but the improvement was subtle to say the least.

Anyone on the fence about the value of the SDI interface should be rest assured that the investment will definitely show major improvements in quality. IMHO

Half

Hello All,

Just wanted to express my shock when I loaded the first DVD into my newley modded Denon DVD5900 now connected via SDI to my iScan HD+. I expected some improvement, but holy cow, what I got was not "some" at all. I have always that the output of my 5900 was a little soft, and the macroblocking drove me nuts, with the new SDI mod and iScan running the processing I can truly say that I have only seen one DVD player outperform it (DVD5910) but the improvement was subtle to say the least.

Anyone on the fence about the value of the SDI interface should be rest assured that the investment will definitely show major improvements in quality. IMHO

Half
Amazing isn't it? You go in with the knowledge that spending all that money is no guarantee that there will be a huge improvement but evidently the 5900 lends itself well to this mod. My experience reflects yours, I had far more improvement than I thought I was going to get. I'm very pleased with my 5900/SDI/iScan combo and it's staying with me until the HiRez rez formats and players get sorted out. :)

Amazing isn't it? You go in with the knowledge that spending all that money is no guarantee that there will be a huge improvement but evidently the 5900 lends itself well to this mod. My experience reflects yours, I had far more improvement than I thought I was going to get. I'm very pleased with my 5900/SDI/iScan combo and it's staying with me until the HiRez rez formats and players get sorted out. :)

You are mirroring my opinions completely! I no longer wish I had a Denon DVD5910, and gain the benefit or unlimited scaling options, all source de-interlacing and scaling to boot!

Life is good, now I am biting at my nails waiting for my newest investment to arrive via UPS 2nd day air (Integra Research RDA-7 Amplifier)

This is going to be a great month!!!!!

Half

Sounds like it will be... :D

that is what I thought, I am not using the 4:3 area of the CRT, it is squeezed to 16x9. My only issue with using the geometry settings on my CRT is that when I use the pass-thru output for my PC, it has different timing values and the overscan of the PC does not match the overscan of the Iscan. So you are saying that if I make both of them match, through the Iscan's output timing, then all should be OK?
If you exactly match the output timing of the iScan with what your PC is producing, then I would expect that your projector should respond the same to both the iScan's output and the PC's output when run through the iScan's pass-through input port. The iScan's output timing setup is very flexible and should be able to generate the same timing as your PC (as long as you know exactly what that is).

- Dale Adams

I suspect there is no benefit for a SDI mod over a DVD player that can output
480i over HDMI unless of course the DVDO iScan HD+ processes that type
of input better. Is this the case?

That depends on how much, if any, post MPEG decoding processing is happening before it feeds the HDMI output.

That depends on how much, if any, post MPEG decoding processing is happening before it feeds the HDMI output.

Understood. It is my understanding that the Pioneer Elite 59avi outputs
unprocessed 480i over HDMI. So in this case would the DVDO iScan
HD+ do any better with SDI? It should not unless it processes the
SDI input differently.

There are a few possibilities:
1. As the source is digital, noise is unlikely to be the problem (as it would be in analog sources), but I would still investigate the cable, particularly if you have a spare.

2. As I recall the HS50 had some problems with getting native rate and there were some firmware updates to resolve that.

1. I have my fears that this would be the case, cause my DVI-HDMI cable is 10m long. I have a shorter DVI-DVI cable and I was planning to do some testing by moving my equipment temporarily closer. I must buy DVD-HDMI adapter first :( .

2. I havent read about these, but sw version is 1.02 in my machine. Isn't this the latest available sw?

JoeFinn,

If you want to use the VGA out to get 1:1, you need to go to the HS-51 picture settings and use the dot phase adjustments while you are looking at the test pattern from the HD+. You will see it when you get the 1:1. If you use the vertical line test pattern it is a little easier. Just use the standard 720p60 from the Hd+. Oh yeah, you have to turn the APA (auto pixel alignemnt) off, or it will keep moving it out of 1:1. That is on the HS-51 also.

While you are at it, can you look at the blue geometry test pattern from the HD+ over VGA out and tell me if you see the slight waves in the blue fields? I see this with VGA out, but not HDMI. Thanks.

I have managed to get 1:1 image on my VGA, but my colours are awful. I have large read and green areas on my screen. This might also be due to bad cable.

I haven't noticed waves on my geometry test pattern.

Understood. It is my understanding that the Pioneer Elite 59avi outputs
unprocessed 480i over HDMI. So in this case would the DVDO iScan
HD+ do any better with SDI? It should not unless it processes the
SDI input differently.
Dale or Josh @ DVDO would be the ones to give the best answer on that...

I have managed to get 1:1 image on my VGA, but my colours are awful. I have large read and green areas on my screen. This might also be due to bad cable.

I haven't noticed waves on my geometry test pattern.
You might try a search in the OFFICIAL Sony HS50(51) thread (www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=444560) in the "Digital Projectors - Under $3500 USD MSRP" forum.

From what I remember, you can get 1:1 mapping through VGA. There was a "fix" for 1:1 over HDMI but it resulted in having a border around the image IIRC. The coloring sounds like panel mis-alignment but I'm not well versed in the particulars of the HS50/51. There is a wealth of info in the above thread though.

If you exactly match the output timing of the iScan with what your PC is producing, then I would expect that your projector should respond the same to both the iScan's output and the PC's output when run through the iScan's pass-through input port. The iScan's output timing setup is very flexible and should be able to generate the same timing as your PC (as long as you know exactly what that is).

- Dale Adams

I matched all settings and it works perfectly, thanks a bunch. all is good now.

On another note, does DVDO sell rack ears for the unit?

A rackmount kit is available for the HD and HD+:

http://www.dvdo.com/pro/pro_acc_bkt.php

Dale or Josh @ DVDO would be the ones to give the best answer on that...

I would think that the SDI route would have a very small benefit in the fact that the content on the disc is recorded in component colorspace and SDI is always component colorspace. With version 2.91 software, 480i from a DVI/HDMI source is deinterlaced and processed, but only RGB 4:4:4 colorspace is accepted as an input signal. This means that the Pioneer 59AVi would have to do a colorspace conversion. The feedback that I have received from our end users is that 480i over HDMI from a 59AVi looks incredible and none are pursuing SDI as a way to get even better picture quality.

I totally agree with Dale.

I was able to compare a Denon 5900-SDI to the IScan HD+ with a 59avi at 480i over HDMI to IScan HD+, and to my eyes and those of my friend, there was no difference in PQ (really really small difference...). And this probably because of the slightly better power supply in the Denon, and not because of the SDI connection IMHO.

So my friend is now thinking about selling the 5900-SDI and buying the upcoming Pioneer Elite 79avi...

And another thing... It's easy to find a used 59avi (and even new if you know where to look....), for 600-700$, so almost the price of the SDI card for the IScan + the SDI-mod... So why risk breaking your DVD-player when doing it yourself, or sending your player away, when simply buying the 59avi will put you almost at the same price point, with the exact same PQ?

Thanks Josh and Levesque.

Finally got my 59avi to work over hdmi thru the dvdo hd+, but I had to add another component (that we apparantly shouldn't be talking about around here) at an additional cost of $325 plus another dvi cable.
Just be aware that if you have a non hdcp compliant display device you need to go a little bit farther to get a picture.

Like it alot now though.

Has anyone been able to get 1080P to work with an iScanHD or HD+ on a Samsung 1080P set? If so what were your settings?

I believe Enversions used the 1080p preset out of an HD+ with no changes.

Well I have the exact setup you mention and I have connected both a SD DirecTV Tivo as well as Denon 2910. The Tivo is connected via S-Vid and the 2910 has been modded with an SDI board, as well as tested direct to TV via HDMI.

The Samsung is set to 1080p via the VGA input from the iScan. When directly connected, it is set to 1080i via the HDMI input.

I can state without question that the iScan HD+ scaling and deinterlacing is head over heels better than the internal scaler in the Samsung 68 Series DLPs. The internal scaler is not bad, but compared to the iScan, it's very noticable.

And another thing... It's easy to find a used 59avi (and even new if you know where to look....), for 600-700$, so almost the price of the SDI card for the IScan + the SDI-mod... So why risk breaking your DVD-player when doing it yourself, or sending your player away, when simply buying the 59avi will put you almost at the same price point, with the exact same PQ?

Even better, the 59avi can be found NEW in the same price range

I have my Panasonic 50PHD7UY, hooked via DVI to the HD+, I have it set to my native resolution of 1366x768, however I notice the picture sometimes will have scan lines either on the top or sides of the picture. An example is espn HD. When it is not in HD, you see the HD sidebars, but at the top of the right one, you see above the HD sidebar and the left one seems to be ok. It seems that that resolution needs to be adjusted, but I do not know what value to change.

Another example is an HD channel not showing and HD source, you get scan lines at the top of the screen running horizontal.

Does anyone have this problem and how can I solve it. Thanks

Does anyone have this problem and how can I solve it. Thanks
I have no experience with either Espn HD nor your display. Setting the "overscan" > 0 in the "input adjust" will probably work but there might be other ways better suited to your actual setup.

ccapozzoli - bartnl is exactly right. Overscan is the control that will fix the issue that you are seeing. If you find that you end up using two parameters, for example 0% and 3%, you can program the discrete codes for these values into a universal remote to simplify switching without using the OSD. The discrete code for 0% overscan is:

0000 006c 001b 0000 0064 0064 0016 0015 0016 0041 0016 0041 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0041 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0041 0016 0041 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0041 0016 0041 0016 0015 0016 0041 0016 0041 0016 0041 0016 0015 0044 0044 0016 0001

If you need a discrete code for another percentage let me know.

Finally got my 59avi to work over hdmi thru the dvdo hd+, but I had to add another component (that we apparantly shouldn't be talking about around here) at an additional cost of $325 plus another dvi cable.
Just be aware that if you have a non hdcp compliant display device you need to go a little bit farther to get a picture.

Like it alot now though.

I had a Sim2 300 plus which was non-hdcp compliant through DVI with a source that WAS hdcp compliant and I also couldn't get a picture. I talked with Josh@DVDO who recommended the following [I think it's somewhere back on this thread]: Source component video > component video in to the HD+ > DVI out of the HD+ > DVI/HDMI input of the display. It worked great and didn't cost me a dime. Of course, I wasn't able to use the DVI out from the source but that was taken care of in the HD+. You might try it. Perhaps you can still sell the $300 unit and recoupe your losses.

Now, if you really want to go DVI/HDMI from a display...and you're successful in selling off "the new unit" you could invest 200$ of the $300 you get back in an Oppo 971H DVD player, which is HDCP non compliant. That will get you the digital connection you're looking for........ at 720p [Faroudja DCDI]........ and with a $100 gain. Heck, with this setup, you could also get rid of the AVI. You like?
Javry

I have an HD+ on its way to me now. My display is a pioneer 503 cmx. does anyone have an hints on settings to use for this combo? I've never used a scaler before, so any help on getting me into the ballpark would be great.

Ed, check out the pioneer 59 and iscan hd+ being sold together on ebay for good look at how to hook it up properly.

ver 2.91 has just crashed with error:

ERR-EC00-761-025B

HD+ with SDI card and a PARC209 connected via RS232.

Reboot (power cycle) does not clear it. Only way out is a reflash back to 2.32 :(

Andrew

Mine just did the same. It's a three day old IScan HD+ which I just updated from v2.30 to v2.91. After reboot it's been fine, though.

Did anyone get an explanation or solution from DVDO?

Ed, check out the pioneer 59 and iscan hd+ being sold together on ebay for good look at how to hook it up properly.

One interesting tid bit from that auction that I'd like clarified for myself:

Using the HDMI from the player to DVi into the Iscan is the same as using the SDI connection since you are inputting a pure digital signal!

HDMI and DVI = SDI, in terms of PQ and performance? I suspect that it's very close, but it is equal outright, like he's claiming here? I'm sure it's splitting hairs. ;)

Using the HDMI from the player to DVi into the Iscan is about the same as using the SDI connection since you are inputting a pure digital signal.

Please read it again Q!

Using the HDMI from the player to DVi into the Iscan is about the same as using the SDI connection since you are inputting a pure digital signal.

Please read it again Q!

I read it right the first time. I just wanted to be sure. :)

I read it right the first time. I just wanted to be sure. :)

Actually it is not correct. the colorspace of SDI and DVI is completely different. The player does a lot more processing to output DVI as opposed to SDI. This has been explained before...

I have owned a SDi modded Denon 3910 and Panny rp82 and the Pioneer 59avi using the HDMI to the Iscan HD+ is the same, i see no difference and believe me i have really looked for it!
Technicalities aside you won't be able to see the difference either.

I'm still trying to find the settings to get 1080P to work over the vga for my Samsung 1080P set. Does anyone have them?

Mine just did the same. It's a three day old IScan HD+ which I just updated from v2.30 to v2.91. After reboot it's been fine, though.

Did anyone get an explanation or solution from DVDO?

Never got an answer. I've had to stick with the old firmware because a reboot didn't work - I'll post here if DVDO get back to me.

Andrew

I would think that the SDI route would have a very small benefit in the fact that the content on the disc is recorded in component colorspace and SDI is always component colorspace. With version 2.91 software, 480i from a DVI/HDMI source is deinterlaced and processed, but only RGB 4:4:4 colorspace is accepted as an input signal. This means that the Pioneer 59AVi would have to do a colorspace conversion. The feedback that I have received from our end users is that 480i over HDMI from a 59AVi looks incredible and none are pursuing SDI as a way to get even better picture quality.

Josh, will the HD also do this or only the +

thanks

Josh, will the HD also do this or only the +

thanks
Only the HD+ has been firmwared to accept 480i over the DVI input.

Thats what I was afraid of. So to make the 59avi work, I have to first upgrade to the +, which gets pretty close to the cost of the 2910 sdi mod setup.

David - How do you intend on connecting the iScan to your Sony 1292?

David - How do you intend on connecting the iScan to your Sony 1292?

Josh,

I use one of your vga->5bnc cables. Works perfectly. Its been up and running for almost a year.

I've been going round and round on the SDI mod. I never imagined that getting a decent 480i signal would be so difficult.

Dave

The reason I ask is that the 59AVi will output HDCP with a 480i HDMI output which in turn means that the iScan HD+ must turn off its analog outputs. 480i from an SDI source would be one way around this potential issue.

Josh,

It sounds like my best option with the CRT is the SDI route. It a bit more expensive but seems like a very good way to get the signal processed and sent to the projector.

Actually I think you told me that a few months ago. I should have listened better.

Dave

I am using a 59avi with my DVDO HD+ and used another get around instead of sdi modding the dvd player. I started out with the HD and upgraded to HD+ ( which was worth it for the added features of the software in the +). When the HD+ still wouldn't output analog because of the HDCP, I added another device that cost less than the sdi mod. In other threads the concensus has been not to discuss this in public, so pm me if you need to know.

Hello all,

Does anyone here use the Iscan HD+ with a Pioneer Elite X30 CRT HDTV? I'm picking up an HD+ and was wondering what values others are using for output timing, etc? Thanks for any input.

Hello all,

Does anyone here use the Iscan HD+ with a Pioneer Elite X30 CRT HDTV? I'm picking up an HD+ and was wondering what values others are using for output timing, etc? Thanks for any input.

Go to the website and download the manual. If your screen is not listed, you can read up on how to do a custom setup. Should be easy.

Hi Josh@dvdo
Why DVDO uses USB with rare chipset for flashing the firmware? Why not to use pure RS232? :confused:

Lattegy,

I think you are confused. The HD+ does update by "pure" RS232.

The "rare chipset" device (actually not very rare) is ONLY needed if your computer does not have an RS232 connection, only a USB one.

Thanks Josh! I will definitely be waiting. Hopefully it has multiple HDMI
inputs and at least one HDMI output...

Found this on the CEDIA 2005 site. Nothing really new except the model#.

DVDO BY ANCHOR
BAY TECHNOLOGIES,
INC.
#1547
DVDO by Anchor Bay Technologies designs, manufactures and markets
semiconductor and system-level solutions for the next generation of Digital
Television & Digital Video electronic products.
The DVDO iScan VP30 is the first video processor to offer four HDMI inputs
along with many other great features.
Gary Chappell

Here is the VP30 thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=568954

Lattegy,

I think you are confused. The HD+ does update by "pure" RS232.
:eek:

Thank you , I got this now)

Can anyone comment on the picture quality of DVDs using component video vs. DVI-480i (i.e., Sony NS975V) vs. SDI feed into the Iscan HD+?

I know SDI should yield the "purest" result and next should be the DVI followed by component video. But, are these differences between each one noticable? How would these differences manifest themselves in terms of picture quality? Since the Iscan is doing all the processing, I would think that as long as the source material is at least fed by component video, you are going to have decent picture quality.

Sincerely,
snooktarpon

I believe it has been posted that the larger the screen the bigger the difference you can see. If you search for dvd sdi the % impovement tosses around is between zero and 10 percent.

Well it has finally been announced... the Iscan VP30 with HDMI inputs. Check out at DVDO.com. I placed an pre-order for it and will upgrade my HD+ to it. It has 4 HDMI and 2 component inputs. To be released in Fall.

abbas

Hello All,

Just curious if someone could post a remote code (pronto format) for discrete "off". I tried the one posted on www.remotecentral.com but it wouldn't work with my HD+, anyone have a code that works?

Thanks,

Half

PS: Actually does anyone have a "complete" list of discrete codes for the HD+?

Halfrican,

Did you try updating the firmware? The discretes codes were not working on early and on the initial release firmware versions.

Halfrican,

Did you try updating the firmware? The discretes codes were not working on early and on the initial release firmware versions.

Sorry forgot to mention, my HD+ is less than a month old, it was shipped with version 2.91 pre-installed.

Half

Josh,

I am having a problem with the RS-232 protocol of the HD+ on the latest software. All of my commands work fine except the Remote Control Commands (A2). The sample command for the Remote Control command in the RS-232 documentation does not work at all. All others work fine. Can somebody test this and report back?

Thanks!

Pablo

I just got my HD upgraded to an HD+. I thought one of the features of the IscanHD+ was a negative overscan feature. Is this available?

aaronwt - The feature is 'Underscan' and it can be found in the Output Setup menu

Output Setup->Aspect Ratio->Underscan

Pablo - I have asked one of out Tech support guys to do some testing on the remote control commands using our serial automation protocol and I will report back with the results.

Pablo - I have asked one of out Tech support guys to do some testing on the remote control commands using our serial automation protocol and I will report back with the results.

Thanks, let me know...

pablo

How do you get the HD+ to associate profiles with each input? I have a DVD player connected to the DVI input and an SDI DVD player on the SDi input. Each has different settings for underscan. I save each one to a differnt profile, but whenver I pick that input is will still have the same underscan settings as the last time I changed it. It seems to only remember for the last time I made changes and apply it to everything. Now If I go in and select a specific profile it will work, but I thought there was a way to associate a profile with a specific input so you don't have to select a profile everytime.

I have an HD+ which I updated with the latest software and am adding a HR10-250 HD-DVR to the system. All sources output to my HDTV at 1080i via an HD15 to component cable. (My HDTV does not have any digital video inputs.) How should I connect the HD-DVR? Some possibilities I am considering are:

HD-DVR 1080i component out to iScan component in for pass-through

HD-DVR 480i HDMI to iScan DVI in for scaling to 1080i – please explain if there is an advantage to this for HD source material.

HD-DVR 1080i HMDI to iScan DVI in – will this be a pass-through other than the controls for brightness/contract/etc? Will iScan to anything to improve the (already) 1080i signal?

HD-DVR 480i component out to iScan component in for scaling to 1080i - please explain if there is an advantage to this for HD source material.

This seems like a lot of choices to me, but I’m confident that to members of this forum one (or two) of the choices would be the best to maximize picture quality.

Thanks for any guidance!

Don

If I hook the HD+ up to my Samsung 32" LCD, which runs 1280x768 native, should I choose the included 1280x768 preset and adjust the output aspect ratio to 15:9, or would I be better off inputting a 100% custom resolution? I have all of the output timing numbers which I have been using with my Momitsu V880.

If I hook the HD+ up to my Samsung 32" LCD, which runs 1280x768 native, should I choose the included 1280x768 preset and adjust the output aspect ratio to 15:9, or would I be better off inputting a 100% custom resolution? I have all of the output timing numbers which I have been using with my Momitsu V880.

I have no experience connecting an iScan HD or HD+ to a 15:9 display.

With your Momitsu and the custom output timing numbers is everything displayed geometrically correct or is there any distortion?

If there is no distortion then I would use those numbers to create a 'User' setting, using the '1280x768' preset as a starting point. If this does not give you a correct picture then I would try your first suggestion of choosing the '1280x768' preset and adjusting the Output Aspect Ratio to 15:9 (1.67). Please let me know your results.

Don - I just sent you a PM

I have no experience connecting an iScan HD or HD+ to a 15:9 display.

With your Momitsu and the custom output timing numbers is everything displayed geometrically correct or is there any distortion?

If there is no distortion then I would use those numbers to create a 'User' setting, using the '1280x768' preset as a starting point. If this does not give you a correct picture then I would try your first suggestion of choosing the '1280x768' preset and adjusting the Output Aspect Ratio to 15:9 (1.67). Please let me know your results.

The image produced with the V880 running 1280x768 is distorted slightly -- it is taller vertically than it should be. The Momitsu has no aspect ratio adjustment, thus a 16:9 image is distorted onto the 15:9 display. This is actually what led me to the HD+: It should correct the aspect ratio issue (not to mention improve the overall picture somewhat :)).

I am thinking of getting the iScan HD+ if it will make sense to use with my BenQ 7200 projector which supports HD.

I have:

2 Directv HD receivers
1 Dish HD receiver
1 Progressive Scan DVD Player
1 Directv SD receiver
1 VHS player
1 BTV PC

Is this the right product to have everything run at 1080i on the projector rather than running everything thru S-Video on the Denon amp?

If you are using a Digital input on the projector, you would want to get an HDMI/DVI switch to use the digital outs for the HD boxes since the iscanHD+ only has one DVI input.

Alternatively, you could wait for the new iScan VP30 (or trade in your old iScan). It has 4 HDMI inputs, scales all legacy inputs up to 1080i (inc component now) and all digital inputs. It also has 2 analog audio inputs besides the 4 digital ones the HD+ has. Worth a look on the DVDO website.

Cheers,

Phil.

I am running an HD+ into a Pan TH-65PHD7UY, using the iScan settings that have been posted on the forum.

I think that I am getting NR. I get 'perfect' checkerboard, horiz and vert test patterns.

I say think because I have to adjust the horizontal position using the service menu (not the consumer accessible control), and I am wondering if by doing that I am causing the plasma to take over the processing and remap all of the pixels?

I appreciate that I should be saying to myself, "if it looks good, then it must be good", but I have a basic personality defect and need to strive for theoretical perfection.

I have a HD+ and I want to hook up my el-cheapo Dell 2400 (with only VGA output) to my home theater. Can I just get a VGA to 3 RCA Component video cable (such as http://www.digitalconnection.com/products/cables/eehd3r.asp) and hook it up to the HD+ to the component. I read that typically you have have a transcoder to do this.

This is just a interim solution until I get a PC with DVI out. I know about the analog pass-through but I do not want to run another cable (and buy the additional cables) for the pass-through to my projector as a interim solution.

Sincerely,
snooktarpon

Pablo - I have asked one of out Tech support guys to do some testing on the remote control commands using our serial automation protocol and I will report back with the results.

Any news...???

Ok Guys I have a complex question so I will try and keep it simple.

1. The dvdo iscanhd+ does it use the same scaling/deinterlacing chip used in the denon 2910?

2. If I have other components connected to the iscan which do NOT have dvi or hdmi outputs. Will the iscan process/pass the signal through a only dvi cable going to the projector?

3. What would be the recommended set up when using a denon 2910 with its known issues with macroblocking?

4. I see dvdo has companion products like the sharp xvz2000 and denon 2910 why have these been chosen?

5. Using a constant height set up with 2.35 screen. What can the iscan do for 4.3 ration films

Thankyou
Ben

The dvdo iscanhd+ does it use the same scaling/deinterlacing chip used in the denon 2910?

No. The Denon 5910 uses DVDO's scaling chip, but the 2910 uses another design.

If I have other components connected to the iscan which do NOT have dvi or hdmi outputs. Will the iscan process/pass the signal through a only dvi cable going to the projector?

Any analog input sent to the iScan can be digitized and output by DVI.

Using a constant height set up with 2.35 screen. What can the iscan do for 4.3 ration films

The iScan HD+ (not the older iScan HD) has support for 2.35:1 constant height set-up. 4:3 and 16:9 content can be pillarboxed into the center of a 2.35:1 screen at their original aspect ratios.

For those interested...

I was able to try a pre-production Pioneer Elite 79avi at 480i over HDMI with my IScan HD+ tonight. And it's working like a charm. :D You can add it to the list of 480i over HDMI player.

And the best part is a new video preset called "Direct" (they call it direct stream video) on the 79avi. Closest thing to SDI we will ever get. ;)

Better then my 59avi.

For those interested...
Better then my 59avi.

can elaborate ? thanks

Hello all,

I bought an iScan HD+, and I'm having a small problem:

Sometimes (not always, but enough to be annoying) when I turn my system on, or when I switch channels or setups, my HD+ loses the signal. I then have to switch inputs from the one I want to another one and back to get the signal to work right.

ex: I turn everything on and all seems well except I have no signal going to my projector. I'm trying to watch a DVD on COM1 input... I have to switch to another input (say COM2), and back before the signal will get to my projector.

I'm using one DVI cable from the HD+ to my PJ, and all my sources run to the HD+.

If this makes any sense. :)

Any ideas I could try?

Thanks a ton!

Does anyone know where a can get a walkthrough for setting up my iscanHD+? I have done all the setup in the manual, but the info there is very...sparse.

I Have the iscan HD+ connected directly via DVI to the digital (M1 proprietary) input on my InFocus LP600 (HDCP Compliant, 1024x768). Connected to the IscanHD+ are my SD Digital cable box, Non-progressive DVD player and Panasonic VCR. I hope to be able to clean up the picture from these sources (especially the digital cable box) as much as possible so they look good on my 160" screen. I'm not an HD techie, so where can I go to educate myself on the basic tech stuff and more important how to setup and tweak the HD+ with my SD sources? I'm using my HD DVD and HD cable box on my other TV and I'd rather not get additional ones unless I have to. I am grateful for any assitance...THANKS!!!!!

I just installed my iScan HD+. It really provided excellent processing. DVD looks great throuh it.

The user interface is simple while providing all sorts of control. It's a great design.

No. The Denon 5910 uses DVDO's scaling chip, but the 2910 uses another design.



Any analog input sent to the iScan can be digitized and output by DVI.



The iScan HD+ (not the older iScan HD) has support for 2.35:1 constant height set-up. 4:3 and 16:9 content can be pillarboxed into the center of a 2.35:1 screen at their original aspect ratios.

Yeah, and it's trivial to set up too. With the lens in place select the output aspect ratio to 2.35:1 and the output resolution to be your panels native resolution. now you can use the input aspect ratio to switch between the ARs. You can also press the 4:3, LBX and 16:9 buttons. I assigned 2.35, 1.85, 1.66, and 1.55 to the PRESET button in the Aspect Ratio grouping. For most viewing that I do pressing the PRESET button gets me to Scope or 1.85 widescreen w/in two clicks.

Very nice interface, great picture.

Hi,

I admit I haven't read this entire thread.

I'm a "typical" user with a 720p projector, HDTV cable box that currently outputs 720p (though I believe it can be set for "pass through" mode), and a HTPC that is set to output 720p. This is all sent to a 130" Silverstar.

I'd like to improve (ie-make watchable) SD cable channels. (480i > 720p)
I'd like to improve the picture of HD channels (esp. remove jaggies when watching HD NFL football.) (1080i or 720p > 720p)

If you have a 720p projector (I have the Sony HS51), are you happy with your HD+? I'm thinking of getting the VP30, but in that thread DVDO said the HD+ has the same processing when outputting 720p.

Finally, is anyone using an HTPC in conjunction with an HD+?

Thanks.

So the HD+ will take a 1080i signal and output 720p? Projectors seem to be good with 1080i, but it may be interesting to see if the HD+ can take HDTV and do a better job of processing/downscaling for the many 720p projectors currently out there.

Cool. Well, that sounds really good. Still loving my iScan Ultra, but if and when I upgrade my PJ, I'll be seriously considering the HD+ :)

Any chance we can have this thread title changed to remove the "New"? Ofer, you out there?

Is there a consensus on what remotes work well with the HD+? I just realized I not longer can tolerate 7 remotes and am looking for a $300 or under alternative. I'd like to be able to program it to change the HD+ from DVI to analog and the reverse at the minimum.

Thx

I am using a Logitech Harmony 688 and it works very well. No issues.

Cheers!

mimason,

they all do - but I love my pronto.

Hello, pretty new to the site and trying to learn what you guys already know!

I have aDenon 1600, It must be a freak because it is the best PQ I have seen over RGB in a player using a 55in WS Mitsu Diamnd. I set the Sharpness all the way, Contrast all the way, and Brights are set to about 40ish....
PQ is amazing and thus I have a problem.....

I purchased a 2910 and 3910. Looking to upgrade I was hoping they would surpass the PQ of the 1600 I felt like Mr. ZORG!! "I am very dissapointed." ANyway Goodguys offered me 200.00 to NOT return the 3910 so here it is connected @ a price of 1,100.00 with a 5 year warranty.
My RPTV does NOT have Dvi or HDMI and only has RGB, and RGBHV..
I want the best possible picture like everyone out there so I ask you what to do?
Do I Mod the 3910 with SDI, get the Iscan HD+ and use the the SDi output to the SDI input of DVDO (assuming it is modded as well) then output how?
The mitsu has the RGBHV inputs for "digital sourced material" ?? -yeah right

HOw do I utilize the RGBHV with my DENON 3910? Is it possible, or if not, IS there a cable that is similar to the VGA to component (hd 15 I believe) ?
Do they make a cable that is DVI to RGBHV? Sorry for so many Q's but you seem knowledgable to know.. ANyone else know what I can do I would greatly appreciate it!
Oh, one more thing I noticed (over component) the 3910 is noisy a bit on picture, that being said would the SDI cancel that out and improve on the sharpness while removing noise?? Thanks for your time! :D

Hello, pretty new to the site and trying to learn what you guys already know!

I have aDenon 1600, It must be a freak because it is the best PQ I have seen over RGB in a player using a 55in WS Mitsu Diamnd. I set the Sharpness all the way, Contrast all the way, and Brights are set to about 40ish....
PQ is amazing and thus I have a problem.....

I purchased a 2910 and 3910. Looking to upgrade I was hoping they would surpass the PQ of the 1600 I felt like Mr. ZORG!! "I am very dissapointed." ANyway Goodguys offered me 200.00 to NOT return the 3910 so here it is connected @ a price of 1,100.00 with a 5 year warranty.
My RPTV does NOT have Dvi or HDMI and only has RGB, and RGBHV..
I want the best possible picture like everyone out there so I ask you what to do?
Do I Mod the 3910 with SDI, get the Iscan HD+ and use the the SDi output to the SDI input of DVDO (assuming it is modded as well) then output how?
The mitsu has the RGBHV inputs for "digital sourced material" ?? -yeah right

HOw do I utilize the RGBHV with my DENON 3910? Is it possible, or if not, IS there a cable that is similar to the VGA to component (hd 15 I believe) ?
Do they make a cable that is DVI to RGBHV? Sorry for so many Q's but you seem knowledgable to know.. ANyone else know what I can do I would greatly appreciate it!
Oh, one more thing I noticed (over component) the 3910 is noisy a bit on picture, that being said would the SDI cancel that out and improve on the sharpness while removing noise?? Thanks for your time! :D

First off, get Avia or Digital Video Essentials or better yet have your display professionally calibrated, your settings are WAY off.

Secondly, I assume that you are using the progressive mode of both the 1600 and the 3910? If you are not, you should be.

Third, when you say your display has RGB inputs I assume you me component (Y, YB, YR) so you already have a good connection option, although analog only.

Fourth, the 1600 and the 3910 have very similar de-interlacers but different mpgeg deconders. The mpeg decoder in the 1600 (matsushita) is probably the best that denon has ever used in one of the machines. The decoder in the 3910 (ESS) is good, but not to the same level as the 1600's. The progressive output of both machines is very good at 480P, you might find the 3910's superior, but not without someone training your eye to tell the difference. Also, the 3910's de-interlacer is plagued with the Macroblocking error present in all players using the Faroujda 2310 chipset, while the 1600 is free of this issue. This may or may not be an issue for your depending on your displays sensitivity to it.

Fifth, the 3910 is a far superior "Audio Player" than the 1600 in every way. It can play SACD in addition to DVD-Audio (1600 only plays DVD-Audio) and has FAR superior bass managment on it's analog outputs. It also features a much higher build quailty, and much faster transport (navigation, layer change). If you are not using your DVD player for CD or Hi-Rez audio playback, than much of this point will be of no value to you.

Lastly, while I am a HUGE proponent of SDI and outbord video scalers (I have SDI and an iScanHD+) I really don't think that it will "fix" the issues your are seeing. Most of the problems you are seeing are related to the settings of your display (sharpness, contrast, brightness, color saturation, white balance, etc...) that's where you need to start upgrading (CALIBRATION). Once you have that handled, then decided if you need the advanced features that an outboard scaler/de-interlacer can offer you. IMHO the iScan offers superior de-interlacing to the built in scalers of both players you have, but start with the basics.

You can SDI mod a 1600 just as easily as 3910, after which they would have very similar video performance while passing it through an iScanHD+. The final decision should come down to build quality and audio performance, if neither are important to you, than stick with the 1600 it's not a bad machine at all.

Hope this helps,

Half :eek:

Hidef,
I've had the Diamond in my system before and I found the factory settings to be way too harsh....so I pulled them back a ways. Brightness sounds about right. Where do you have color temp, saturation, and tint?

I agree with Half. I wouldn't run out and buy the latest new thing....just because it's the latest new thing. The 3910 is a great machine but I don't think, in this case, it's going to give you anything more than what you already have........unless you're interested in SACD/DVDA. But as to all things video, my guess is you have a pretty good setup with what you have. It just needs some tweaking. I too would start with a good calibration of the Diamond and then see where you are after that. I'd hold onto the 3910 for now, since you got such a good deal on it. You can always sell it later if things tend to swing that way. You should know though, that HDMI/DVI won't necessarily give you better PQ. So I wouldn't run out and buy a new display just to have it. And at 480p, there are other things you can do to increase performance if the calibration doesn't do it for you.

BTW Halfrican, you and my son need to meet. That name sounds like something he would come up with......feel me?
Javry

Hi,

just noticed that sometimes i don't have any picture using 1080i 50hz and 60hz from my HD+ with the benq 8700+ (i take the message "DVID not supporting"). But when I reset the HD+ to the factory default, then I have normally picture at 1080i both 50 and 60hz.
Should I first open the projector and then the scaler or vise versa? Or is it something else?

Forget it. I found the solution: sequence of power on.

First power on the sources (dvd player, scaler) and then the projector :)

First off, get Avia or Digital Video Essentials or better yet have your display professionally calibrated, your settings are WAY off.

My settings are off? Do you own my TV? NO.
Do you know my saturation, RBG manual settings, Tint, and Hue in relation to PQ?
I have PERFECT fleshtone, RAZOR sharp picture, THe brightest brights and the Darkest darks out of any TV on the market I have ever seen ( The best display I have seen was a Fujitsu Plasma.) Vibrant colors not to mention 3-d depth.....


Secondly, I assume that you are using the progressive mode of both the 1600 and the 3910? If you are not, you should be.

Seriously man, who in their right MIND would buy a 1600 and NOT use DCDI for deinterlacing, assuming you know what DCDI stands for in the first place. (insulting my intelligence is funny but really c'mon man!)



Third, when you say your display has RGB inputs I assume you me component (Y, YB, YR) so you already have a good connection option, although analog only.



YOu did not read thoroughly my statements and therefore should NOT ass-u-me. I said R-B-G-H-V (horizontol and vertical )
I wanted to utilize my Digital input that says,"Digital Input" on the back of the TV.
Again, this time using common sense who buys a 1600 and uses S video or Video out for PQ, claiming to be a videophile? (if you did not understand that I mean I am a videophile so I would never use any other inferior connection besides component considering the TV does not support DVI nor HDMI.




Fifth, the 3910 is a far superior "Audio Player" than the 1600 in every way. It can play SACD in addition to DVD-Audio (1600 only plays DVD-Audio) and has FAR superior bass managment on it's analog outputs. It also features a much higher build quailty, and much faster transport (navigation, layer change). If you are not using your DVD player for CD or Hi-Rez audio playback, than much of this point will be of no value to you.


Again reading posts would help you best. I stated very transparently (clearly) that the 1600's audio "falls off" NOw, with the Addition of the 3910 I get Theater like dynamics and sound, subtle nuances, abient mixes I have never heard before, and further engulfing me in the movie as if I were in the middle of the movie, as it was intended, so thanks for common sense 101, because I really had no idea that the 2002 Denon 1600's basic 24bit 192khz chip would be so great they would carry it over to the 3910 after 3 years of pointless technological advancement with Texas Instruments (Burr Brow Dacs) I also never quite figured out why the 1600 is a paper weight and the 3910 weighs 30 pounds or so! (heavy sarcasm now off)


Lastly, while I am a HUGE proponent of SDI and outbord video scalers (I have SDI and an iScanHD+) I really don't think that it will "fix" the issues your are seeing. Most of the problems you are seeing are related to the settings of your display (sharpness, contrast, brightness, color saturation, white balance, etc...) that's where you need to start upgrading CALIBRATION.



You are funny, here, a brief analysis of my setup, distance and Video tuning.
1.) I have a 55in screen, I sit only about 7 feet away due to room and studio constraints.
2.) Sharpness is FUll @ 100, why? BECAUSE, sharpness reveals everything, and the 1600 DENON displays NOT ONE OUNCE of artifacting, SNOW or picture noise with the extreme setting I have chosen-maybe I have a freak because 1600-component RIVALS 3910DVI, thats right you heard it!
3.) Mitsubishi's color is outstanding, mybe too good, so my saturation of color is a couple of Left clicks from center. 1600 has overly saturated color hence my decision to offset that fact
4.) BRightness should be set, DEPENDING on black level of DVD player and display to about 50, and then I worked my way down to about 40 (with the 3910 i use 40 because of the vast color variations and adjustments.
with the 1600 brightness was set to about 47, a few clicks left from dead center
5.) Contrast- I dare u to disagree (lol) on this one. If your display has an awesome contrast ratio (which my set does!) then take advantge of the contrast.
I see everything that you are supposed to see from Wesley snipes BLACk to Michael Jackson WHITE -sad but true....
(6.) I DO not need a calibration test to tell me what looks good, great or dull.
I see in the 1600 that is faithful in its attempt to reproduce film from video, not perfect but damn near it. 3910 has more noise yet different by design and nature.

In closing I hope you understand what I look for in PQ.

I apologize if you may have thought my I.Q. was below 120.... because it is not.
YOu can talk to me on a professional level, its just that your trouble shooting skills in light of my posts are poor and not carefully executed.
What I am looking for is a picture to look like the 1600 with the audio processing capabilities of the 3910 USING MY RGBHV- which is not RGB (it is analog high def)

Hope this helps,

Is this a joke. :confused:

Is this a joke. :confused:

Evidently I didn't realize I was "trying" to help someone who OBVIOUSLY knows more about everything having to do with A/V science than I do. Including why "everyone in their right mind" would buy a DVD player featuring DCDI technology that has nothing to do with FILM playback only VIDEO playback.

I apologize for trying to be thorough with my remarks rather than flaming you for asking a relatively novice question, like others on this board might.

The point I was trying to make is that you should definitely eliminate many other potential issues before automatically assuming that it is your hardware that it is at fault. BTW your display would have to be the first I have ever seen that the user menu setting for "sharpness" would be at the 100% setting when adjusted properly!

Once again, sorry for insulting your intelligence, and your obvious quest to empty your pocket book as quickly as possible.

Half

HIDEF_J,

I SINCERELY suggest that you consult with someone at the ISF (That's the Imaging Science Foundation, but I'm sure you already knew that too:rolleyes: ), preferrably Joel Silver, Kevin Miller or even myself.

You have a lot to learn about proper video reproduction. They have courses throughout the year in different parts of the country and would be happy to have you attend:)!!!

Check them out at www.imagingscience.com

Now, speaking with my AVS cap on...please tone down your attitude or this will have to be reported to a moderator. Please keep it nice and civil so we all can learn something here:)

HIDEF_J,

I SINCERELY suggest that you consult with someone at the ISF (That's the Imaging Science Foundation, but I'm sure you already knew that too:rolleyes: ), preferrably Joel Silver, Kevin Miller or even myself.

You have a lot to learn about proper video reproduction. They have courses throughout the year in different parts of the country and would be happy to have you attend:)!!!

Check them out at www.imagingscience.com

Now, speaking with my AVS cap on...please tone down your attitude or this will have to be reported to a moderator. Please keep it nice and civil so we all can learn something here:)

Thanks Dave, I think you got the point across in a more effective manor than I.

Half

No problem Half...that's my job:D!!!

HIDEF_J,

I SINCERELYNow, speaking with my AVS cap on...please tone down your attitude or this will have to be reported to a moderator. Please keep it nice and civil so we all can learn something here:)

Well, thank you Mother Teresa for showing me the way to everlasting peace ;)

Okay, Half- my bad, I apologize, but reading your post at first glance seemed insulting and I'd like to THANK YOU for clarifying this.

My display really looks perfect using the DENON 1600, well almost perfect. I concede there are jags sometimes but the clear picture keeps me glued to it.

I am curious to see the avia DVD's calibration techniques and see what a "real" picture is supposed to look like.

Concerning the 1600 I did not understand what you mean exactly about the film based material..... ALL DVD players convert film to Video, right? Hence D igital V ideo D isc or DVD. (j/k)

What I see is the 1600 looking more like film than the 3910...
Why is the sharpness NOT supposed to be set to max?
Maybe I'll try to tone it down but with the 3910 having NSV, 2 levels of sharpness I really cannot see why not set it to that level..

If you do not mind me asking what displays and DVD players do you both Dave, and Half own??? I mean if it's apples to oranges (my low to mid-fi VS your setups being mid-to high-fi can we really correctly define "good" picture quality?

Well, thank you Mother Teresa for showing me the way to everlasting peace ;)

Okay, Half- my bad, I apologize, but reading your post at first glance seemed insulting and I'd like to THANK YOU for clarifying this.

My display really looks perfect using the DENON 1600, well almost perfect. I concede there are jags sometimes but the clear picture keeps me glued to it.

I am curious to see the avia DVD's calibration techniques and see what a "real" picture is supposed to look like.

Concerning the 1600 I did not understand what you mean exactly about the film based material..... ALL DVD players convert film to Video, right? Hence D igital V ideo D isc or DVD. (j/k)

What I see is the 1600 looking more like film than the 3910...
Why is the sharpness NOT supposed to be set to max?
Maybe I'll try to tone it down but with the 3910 having NSV, 2 levels of sharpness I really cannot see why not set it to that level..

If you do not mind me asking what displays and DVD players do you both Dave, and Half own??? I mean if it's apples to oranges (my low to mid-fi VS your setups being mid-to high-fi can we really correctly define "good" picture quality?

HiDef,

No problem, I'm pretty thick-skinned, but like I said not knowing who I am chatting with, I was just trying to make sure that no matter what level of understanding you have (or the level of other readers) it would be easy to understand.

The DVD1600 is a VERY good video player, it was based on the Panasonic RP65 which was also a very good machine, and one of the last machine to use the non-macroblocking Faroujda chipset for it's de-interlacing. I have owned one in the past, I liked it very much, accept for the "cheap" build quality, slow layer changes, and limited bass management.

In regards to film vs video sources, all DVD's are encoded in 480i format, but some are encoded at 24fps (film) and some are encoded at 30fps (video). The difference in orignial frame rate comes from the source material (film, or video). Progressive scan displays function at 60fps which is the NTSC standard. The differences in de-interlacing quality come from the display or players ability to convert the 480i (24fps/30fps) source material to the native framerate of the display. HD displays also have a native resolution that is much higher than the non-HD resoulution of DVD (480), this is an issue that is either dealt with in the display or in the DVD player in the form of scaling. It really comes down to the fact that HD displays are designed to display sources in the native format of 720p/1080i/1080p nothing else. In order for them to display other formats the source must be de-interlaced and/or scaled to the displays native resolution. In regards to de-interlacing the 1600 and the 3910 are almost equals, and the 1600 has a superior mpeg decoder and none of the macro-blocking issues seen in the newer Faroujda chipsets. What the 1600 lacks in the 3910's internal scaler which means the display must handle this internally. Some displays have very good de-interlacers/scalers some do not, some are very sensitive to the macro-blocking error of the newer Faroujda chipsets some much less sensitive. In either case, the Faroujda chipset is one of several very good de-interlacing chipsets on the market, it has what is considered by most to be the BEST "video" performance on the market, and very competitive "film" performance. Please note, that for "film" based sources, which includes almost every commerical DVD distributed in the US, other chipsets (DVDO, HQV, etc) are considered superior. Since I only own a very few "video" sourced DVD's and I am very sensitive to the macro-blocking bug I find that I am in the camp that prefers the DVDO chipset YMMV. If you watch a lot of "video" sourced DVD's you will likely find that the Faroujda chipset is superior.

As to why you are finding the output of the 1600 to be more film-like than your 3910, I really can't say, they should be very close. The 3910 has a vastly superior analog video stage so it should provide a superior image with all other factors being equal. My speculation as to your disatisfaction with the 3910 being your display settings is most likely accurate.

Sharpness is a "legacy" control introduced in the dawn of broadcast television, it was designed to compensate for the signal loss that afflicted analog broadcast NTSC displays. With a properly calibrated display and a quality source like DVD or HD the proper setting for this option is almost always "0" or off. This is explained in detail in the Avia or DVE.

Lastly, my current display is a Sony GWIV LCD rear projection, but I also own a Sony 34" XBR direct view set, both professionally calibrated. My source is the Denon DVD5900 with SDI mod feeding a DVDO iScanHD+ to my display at 720p. Most people have not seen a NTSC accurate picture before, so they don't always know what it should look like or for that matter like what it looks like. It takes time to appreciate, the noise free, ultra detailed image that it provides.

Hope this helps,

Half

HiDef,

Sharpness is a "legacy" control introduced in the dawn of broadcast television, it was designed to compensate for the signal loss that afflicted analog broadcast NTSC displays. With a properly calibrated display and a quality source like DVD or HD the proper setting for this option is almost always "0" or off. This is explained in detail in the Avia or DVE.

Half

Whatever Avia and other calibration discs say is the proper setting for sharpness, most users do not set sharpness to 0/off on their displays; I would guess about 10% to 15% is most common. But until now I've never heard of anyone setting sharpness to 100%, this will invariably create a somewhat edgy, electronic look to the image and add noise. But as the man says, ultimately you have to go with what pleases you and not worry about the "experts" who are not watching your display and didn't pay for it. In fact, if you're already completely happy with your settings, you're better off not knowing what the so-called "correct" settings should be, because a little knowledge can drive you crazy trying to reach perfection.

One more thing HI-Def,

The comment you made about the audio DACs of the 1600 are partially true. It does use a Burr-Brown DAC, but Burr-Brown makes many different DACs and they are certainly not all created equal. Also the audio and/or video DAC of a DVD player is really just a small part of it's final output quality. The power supplies, circuit isolation, digital clock, analog audio/video stage, build quality, and MANY other factors add up to the final output.

I assure you that Denon had a completely different target market for these two players both in audio and video. The 1600 is an over-achiever in video, but at best a mediocre audo player. The 3910 bests the 1600 in video and is on a totally different level as an audio player. Again if you are not using your players as audio sources, than this really won't matter to you. Dolby Digital and DTS are "packet based" formats and thus not really sensitive to the advantages of the 3910, or most any other upscale player on the market. In almost every case you are only feeding a bitstream signal to the receiver/pre-pro where the D/A and processing are handled, however many DVD players are still handle CD processing better internally. Hi-Rez (DVDA, SACD) playback is handled soley by the player, unless you are fortunate enough to have a receiver/pre-pro that has i-link, Denon-Link, or some other form of hi-rez audio interface.

As I said before, if you like your DVD1600 and don't need the added benefits of the 3910 than by all means keep the 1600. But definitely give AVIA or DVE at least a rental and see what your missing.

Half

Whatever Avia and other calibration discs say is the proper setting for sharpness, most users do not set sharpness to 0/off on their displays; I would guess about 10% to 15% is most common. But until now I've never heard of anyone setting sharpness to 100%, this will invariably create a somewhat edgy, electronic look to the image and add noise. But as the man says, ultimately you have to go with what pleases you and not worry about the "experts" who are not watching your display and didn't pay for it. In fact, if you're already completely happy with your settings, you're better off not knowing what the so-called "correct" settings should be, because a little knowledge can drive you crazy trying to reach perfection.


As I mentioned, "with a properly calibrated display", just using AVIA or DVE with user settings in the menu of the display will not give you a "proper" calibration. Access to the service menu, proper (expensive tools), and a highly knowledgable and skilled tech is required to achieve this. As you mentioned, without accessing these "hidden" controls, somewere between 0% and 50% are far more pleasing settings. Still most people set sharpness too high even without access to the service menu settings. After properly setting the sharpness, contrast, black level, saturation, and hue it is very important to "live with" your new settings until your eyes adjust to the difference.

You are right, if you are happy with your settings, what ever they are, you can definitely just carry on. But when investing the type of $ most of us have, I think it's atleast worh considering what minor adjustments can be made to maximize the performance of the product, YMMV.

Thanks for your point, it is a very important one that I forgot. Again, my orignal reply to the OP of this topic was simply geared towards saving him some $ and encouraging him to invest in maximizing his existing equipment and then identifying if and where he needed to upgrade his system next.

Half

HighDef,

It's always a good idea to jump in slowly into a forum. Yelling and shouting from the get-go is not a great way for us to get to know you.

We are a very helpful bunch, but if we underestimate your level - it's because we want to help you, not insult you.

Halfrican,

You stole the words right out of my mouth. We're looking forward to the SpyderTV, which holds some promise for a reasonably priced calibration that is much more "proper" than plain AVIA.

HighDef,

It's always a good idea to jump in slowly into a forum. Yelling and shouting from the get-go is not a great way for us to get to know you.

We are a very helpful bunch, but if we underestimate your level - it's because we want to help you, not insult you.

Halfrican,

You stole the words right out of my mouth. We're looking forward to the SpyderTV, which holds some promise for a reasonably priced calibration that is much more "proper" than plain AVIA.

Audioholics just posted a review of the spyderTV it looks very promising! I look forward to seeing some more reviews in the near future, it should definitely bring "self calibration" to a much higher level than currently available, and at less than $300.00 delivered to your door!

Half

HighDef,

It's always a good idea to jump in slowly into a forum. Yelling and shouting from the get-go is not a great way for us to get to know you.

Again, I did apologize for my remarks made to Halfrican..... Why beat a dead horse?
I mean I find it amusing to be "slapped on the wrist" if you will, from a moderator's viewpoint but pleased be rest assured I am aware of my comments and my surroundings. Much information is to be learned from being here but really man, are you really that sensitive? I was only somewhat shocked by the way I was talked to and then Halfrican explained what he meant. Case closed lets move on shall we?

I thought only Orange County was that "sentitho" but wow I may be mistaken.

Anyway I forgot all about the service menu options but I won't mess with that!
I'll call the professionals for that!

1600 is Video heaven, audio is pretty poor, no dynamics, sound levels fall off. Decoder wise I have to say the 3910 is more than slightly better! IT is a world of difference IMO.

I was thinking about modifying the 3910 to have SDI, and purchase the HD+

HOw good is your PQ SDI-speaking because I have heard you directly attack the mpeg decoder via SDI card preserving the 4:4:2 bypassing all the processing and you have a magnificent picture.. IS this true? Let me know because This is not placebo, the 1600 looks better than the 3910 (to explain better from my display usage it is Sharper-better contrast-NO noise at all.. I know you have the SDi so I'll ask you
If you have the movie Gladiator, watch the opening battle sequence and tell me when you FIRST see Emperor marcus does your display show the gold so real it looks too good? NExt when commodus gets off the carriage, 2 camera shots on my display reveal so much perfect looking gold strands on his outfit!!! it looks HD, seriously..
I wanted to say one more thing,,,,,, with my display Mitsu diamond, not gold not platinum series, with the 1600 and the sharpness turned to max-contrst turned to max and brightness to about 47 frm 50 I get NO NOISE whatsoever, I mean it. NO snow, n artifacts no ghosting no nada. It looks too good but audio is poor...

Can I modify the denon and put those dac badboys on the 1600-? I know just wishful thinking on my part!

But until now I've never heard of anyone setting sharpness to 100%, this will invariably create a somewhat edgy, electronic look to the image and add noise. . My dvds look like film material all joking aside!

I thank you for your valued input, I never knew this about the calibrations, I always ignored these posts because I truly feel I don't need them HOWEVER, I was told I could greatly improve PQ with a Mitsu tech using the service menu-tweaking settings normally not tweaked, I remember now (3 years ago I think)

Cjay, I wish you could see the picture I get. ANyone I know that has seen my display cannot believe that by sitting only about 5-7 feet away, sharpness set to max contrast to max ( my set has a great contrast ratio) and the brightness always below 50 because the screen is so bright... You are not supposedto watch this TV at close proximity as I do. My studio room is only 10x11!! Yeah I know, small indeed but for that size display I was told about 10-13 feet is IDEAL, maybe that is why I need to watch at that distance with the 3910. Room is small but how else can I fit a ROland fantom, Yamah motif es, Kurzweil 2600xs, Triton Extreme 8, workstation with protools, 26in LCD lt26 HVX olevia, RP8 monitors and mixing console!??? I got too much stuff! :confused:

I feel if I decrease the sharpness to about 10-15% I will lose PQ is this true?
Also cjay, the 3910 has a vast assortment of PQ adjustment modes, most notably the 2 sharpness modes, NSV filtering which is set to maximum to minimize the noise I cannot stand, cross color saturation, gamma, chroma delay.

Audioholics just posted a review of the spyderTV it looks very promising! I look forward to seeing some more reviews in the near future, it should definitely bring "self calibration" to a much higher level than currently available, and at less than $300.00 delivered to your door!

Half

Then you may want to read this thread.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=572098&page=1&pp=30

Cjay, I wish you could see the picture I get. ANyone I know that has seen my display cannot believe that by sitting only about 5-7 feet away, sharpness set to max contrast to max ( my set has a great contrast ratio) and the brightness always below 50 because the screen is so bright...
My suggestion is for you to get the display professional calibrated. If you are running your contrast at 100% the display is not going to last long, you're going to burn-out the tubes. I had a Mits Diamond 55" and never ran the contrast that high, in fact it never really was set above mid-range, 30-31 was usually the setting if I recall, the set was ISF calibrated twice.

My dvds look like film material all joking aside!

I thank you for your valued input, I never knew this about the calibrations, I always ignored these posts because I truly feel I don't need them HOWEVER, I was told I could greatly improve PQ with a Mitsu tech using the service menu-tweaking settings normally not tweaked, I remember now (3 years ago I think)

Cjay, I wish you could see the picture I get. ANyone I know that has seen my display cannot believe that by sitting only about 5-7 feet away, sharpness set to max contrast to max ( my set has a great contrast ratio) and the brightness always below 50 because the screen is so bright... You are not supposedto watch this TV at close proximity as I do. My studio room is only 10x11!! Yeah I know, small indeed but for that size display I was told about 10-13 feet is IDEAL, maybe that is why I need to watch at that distance with the 3910. Room is small but how else can I fit a ROland fantom, Yamah motif es, Kurzweil 2600xs, Triton Extreme 8, workstation with protools, 26in LCD lt26 HVX olevia, RP8 monitors and mixing console!??? I got too much stuff! :confused:

I feel if I decrease the sharpness to about 10-15% I will lose PQ is this true?
Also cjay, the 3910 has a vast assortment of PQ adjustment modes, most notably the 2 sharpness modes, NSV filtering which is set to maximum to minimize the noise I cannot stand, cross color saturation, gamma, chroma delay.

Regarding sharpness, you will not lose picture quality in terms of detail by setting sharpness to 10 to 15% (or perhaps a little higher). The sharpness control is designed to artifically sharpen the picture, it cannot add detail, but it can certainly affect the perception of detail.

Also note that setting contrast too high besides degrading picture quality, will almost certainly at some point in the future harm and degrade your display.

I just returned a couple days ago from my vacation in Iowa where I spent some time at a friend's home watching a newer 55" Mitsu 16:9 CRT TV (model unknown). I helped my friend calibrate his display using several fillms, but primarily Seven. He does not own any calibration discs. But here basically is what was done to obtain the best "eyeball" quality for his set. Note note that even though he had been watching his display for several months using his own settings and was delighted with them, he was even more delighted with his setup once I had helped him do the following very basic calibrations:

Turned Scan Velocity Modulation (SVM) to off.
Lowered both brightness and contrast to under the 40% level on his display (I don't recall the final settings, but they were both set close to the same levels with I think contrast set a little higher than brightness, and his setting for contrast was only slightly adjusted, but brightness came down like 6 or 7 notches).
I only slightly lowered sharpness to about 15% from the 20% that he had it set at.
I also adjusted Hue 2 notches to the green side.
Color level was not changed and he had already set the color temp to 6500K available from the main menu, not the service menu.
The service menu was not accessed and I only adjusted for DVD settings using a Denon 910 DVD player.

My friend by the way is a columnist and DVD reviewer for a small newspaper and is therefore somewhat picture savy, but that didn't mean there was no room for improvements with his display, and when I left I'm sure there was room for even further improvements since we did not spend a lot of time trying to calibrate things.

I have a quick question for anyone with the Iscan HD+, sorry if this has been covered in this thread, I searched and didn't come up with anything

I currently have the Iscan HD and output a custom resolution(for 0% overscan) with 1080i timings for my Mitsubishi 65813 CRT HDTV, I would like to be able to input all my DVI HDTV sources and output them via the Iscan using it's CUE filter and picture adjustments and custom output resolution

I know that getting the HD+ upgrade allows scaling of 720p/1080i inputted sources, but I was concerned if it allowed tweaking of picture controls when inputting HDTV via DVI

so my question is:

When inputting 720p/1080i via DVI(HDCP or Non-HDCP), is the HD+ able to use the picture adjustments, like the CUE filter, y/c delay and brightness/contrast etc. ??

This would be a big help for my Dish network HDTV PVR(outputs 1080i via Non-HDCP DVI) because it has Y/C delays, CUE and other problems that the Iscan would fix right up

-Gary

I have a quick question for anyone with the Iscan HD+, sorry if this has been covered in this thread, I searched and didn't come up with anything

I currently have the Iscan HD and output a custom resolution(for 0% overscan) with 1080i timings for my Mitsubishi 65813 CRT HDTV, I would like to be able to input all my DVI HDTV sources and output them via the Iscan using it's CUE filter and picture adjustments and custom output resolution

I know that getting the HD+ upgrade allows scaling of 720p/1080i inputted sources, but I was concerned if it allowed tweaking of picture controls when inputting HDTV via DVI

so my question is:

When inputting 720p/1080i via DVI(HDCP or Non-HDCP), is the HD+ able to use the picture adjustments, like the CUE filter, y/c delay and brightness/contrast etc. ??

This would be a big help for my Dish network HDTV PVR(outputs 1080i via Non-HDCP DVI) because it has Y/C delays, CUE and other problems that the Iscan would fix right up

-Gary

Gary, I'm running the Oppo DVD player using 720p into the HD+ and all the picture adjustments you mention are available. I've also used DVI from my Samsung HD tuner and it also works.

so my question is:

When inputting 720p/1080i via DVI(HDCP or Non-HDCP), is the HD+ able to use the picture adjustments, like the CUE filter, y/c delay and brightness/contrast etc. ??

This would be a big help for my Dish network HDTV PVR(outputs 1080i via Non-HDCP DVI) because it has Y/C delays, CUE and other problems that the Iscan would fix right up

-Gary

Hi Gary,

Yes, the HD+ does scaling (but not de-interlacing) on its DVI input (Not the VGA or component inputs though) at resolutions of 720p/1080i, with all the bells and whistles as per other inputs. Y/C is a bit coarse (I imagine like the HD - never had one of those so can't truly say for sure) Like CJayB, my Oppo gives the best result if I set it to 720p output into the HD+; - better than setting it to 1080i.

Cheers,

Phil.

Great Thanks Guys

Is it true that the HD+ has a negative overscan feature??, to make the picture smaller to get rid of overscan

if so does it have much negative adjustment??

-Gary

My suggestion is for you to get the display professional calibrated. If you are running your contrast at 100% the display is not going to last long, you're going to burn-out the tubes. I had a Mits Diamond 55" and never ran the contrast that high, in fact it never really was set above mid-range, 30-31 was usually the setting if I recall, the set was ISF calibrated twice.


I have had it for 3 years Plus without any problems whatsoever, however, all of you probably know what you are saying..
My extended warranty expires in 2007 so I should get the thing serviced and perhaps get it professionally calibrated as per the general concensus...

I have also remembered hearing that brightness and contrast settings too high could result in reduced life so thanks in that regard..

...I feel if I decrease the sharpness to about 10-15% I will lose PQ is this true?...

HIDEF_J,

No, the inverse is true. The more sharpness you use, the more picture details you lose.

If you have any of the DVDs that are THX Certified like Star Wars you can go to the setup menu of the disc and look for the "THX Optimizer" selection.

Select that and then walk through the different settings. When you get to the one that has the color bars in the middle with steps of grey on the top, use this test screen to look at the portion that has the black vertical lines going from left to right, thicker to thinner. This is a good thing to use for resolution, ringing and "detail".

With this test screen up, raise and lower your sharpness control and watch what happens to the edges of the black lines, especially the thinner ones on the right. It is supposed to be simply black lines followed by white, but what you should see happening when sharpness is raised is you get false white lines on the edges of the black ones. These are reflections that expand out into adjacent pixels and obscure the detail of that adjacent pixel of information, thus losing detail and "real" picture information that was there when the software was mastered. The more you crank in sharpness, the worse it gets and the farther out it expands covering more and more pixels to the left and right with that image distortion:(

As I said, check out the ISF or maybe go to www.videoessentials.com for some great info.

signed,
"Mother Theresa";)

Great Thanks Guys

Is it true that the HD+ has a negative overscan feature??, to make the picture smaller to get rid of overscan

if so does it have much negative adjustment??

-Gary

It does have both overscan and underscan adjustments; I've never checked on the limits of either but the range is more than adequate for my needs (and I would assume most anyone's needs unless you are really obsessed with zooming in on naked body parts).

Here's a good thing to check out too:

http://videoessentials.com/docs/DVE_Consumer_NTSC.pdf

Thanks CJ, I was just concerned if the underscan adjustment had enough range

Sounds Great!!

-Gary

Hidef,

We want to see some pictures of Gladiator on your set. Show us :)

Does DVDO recommend a particular brand or specification for video extenders?

I'm looking at the Gefen HDTV CAT-5 Extender.

Thanks.

Does DVDO recommend a particular brand or specification for video extenders?

I'm looking at the Gefen HDTV CAT-5 Extender.

Thanks.

I'm using the Gefen DVI CAT-5 extender with my IScan HD+ and Sony G70 CRT front projector. Works like a charm and allows me to rewire my setup with longer cables which wouldn't work with optical extenders.

I think the Gefen would be a good fit. We can get them for if you're interested? Let me know.

Hidef,

We want to see some pictures of Gladiator on your set. Show us :)

I'm gonna need my sunglasses! :eek:

I'm using the Gefen DVI CAT-5 extender with my IScan HD+ and Sony G70 CRT front projector. Works like a charm and allows me to rewire my setup with longer cables which wouldn't work with optical extenders.

Affe,

Since the Gefen has two pieces of hardware that are connected with CAT-5, where did you place the one that goes next to the projector? I'm thinking of building a little shelf behind the projector, unless the Gefen doesn't have a need to stay cool (then I'll stick it up in the ceiling.

Do you know how hot the Gefen runs?

Thanks!

Since the Gefen has two pieces of hardware that are connected with CAT-5, where did you place the one that goes next to the projector? I'm thinking of building a little shelf behind the projector, unless the Gefen doesn't have a need to stay cool (then I'll stick it up in the ceiling.

It's on top of the ceiling mounted projector. Plenty of space there. :p Then a short DVI cable to the projector. It even comes with two brackets you can use to fix it in ceiling etc. It's also convenient that it doesn't require an external power supply at the projector end.

Do you know how hot the Gefen runs?

Not hot, just a bit warm. An aluminum housing helps in dissipating the watt or two it produces. I don't think you will have any problems even if it was inside the ceiling.

True, they do not get very hot at all and shouldn't be a concern unless you totally enclose it without any ventilation or space around it whatsoever.

I have emailed DVDO a few days ago asking for help but got no reply and I wonder if any iScan HD+ owner could help me with this:

I have an iScan HD+ connected to a JVC HDTV CRT (european model-HV-36P38) using component video. I have a Sony DVD player connected to COM1 and my HTPC to DVI.

As this TV supports both 1080i@50Hz and @60Hz i World like to use 50Hz for PAL and 60Hz for NTSC disks, I have configured FRC to lock 50->50 and 60->60 but if the iScan ouput format is set to 1080i@50Hz and play a NTSC disc in the Sony the screen goes black until I change output to 1080i@60Hz, also if output is set at 1080i@60Hz and play a PAL disk the image is shifted quite a bit to the right and colours look too saturated.

Is there a way to configure the iScan so that it detects what is being input and automatically change output to match it? So if I play on the Sony a PAL DVD it will change automatically to 1080/50 and if it is a NTSC disk to 1080/60?

Thanks.

Has anyone seen a HD+ set up with a new 1080P DLP from Samsung? How much improvement do you REALLY see...1%, 5%, whole heck of a lot, or too little to see?????? Thanks to anyone who knows this answer!!!

With what source? I use my HD+ with my HD-TiVos to eliminate most of the overscan from the HD-TiVos. The pic is the same, just less overscan.

I an HD+ and will be using it with an LG DLP which is 720P native. Source components are a HD Tivo Box for HD and SD content and a low end Sony Progressive Scan DVD player. I have searched the forums but can not find recommended setting for optimal PQ. Is there a thread someone could point me towards or setting someone could share?

jchick,

Every system is different and will react differently when hooked together in your environment. I wouldn't suggest going by someone else's settings. I suggest the best thing to do is have someone come in for a calibration or at least get AVIA, DVE, etc. and try to read up on some of the great DIY calibration threads and give it a go yourself:)

I'd be happy to answer any questions you may have in the process, so feel free to contact me.

Thanks, I hope to get everything hooked up this weekend so I will see how it goes.

Have fun, and remember the journey is sometimes more fun than the reward at the end:)!!!

As this TV supports both 1080i@50Hz and @60Hz i World like to use 50Hz for PAL and 60Hz for NTSC disks, I have configured FRC to lock 50->50 and 60->60 but if the iScan ouput format is set to 1080i@50Hz and play a NTSC disc in the Sony the screen goes black until I change output to 1080i@60Hz, also if output is set at 1080i@60Hz and play a PAL disk the image is shifted quite a bit to the right and colours look too saturated.

Is there a way to configure the iScan so that it detects what is being input and automatically change output to match it? So if I play on the Sony a PAL DVD it will change automatically to 1080/50 and if it is a NTSC disk to 1080/60?
Your main problem sounds like your tv is the cause, not the iScan.

1080i@50Hz not displaying picture but 60Hz working is common problem with many European tvs that are supposed to be "HD Ready", when really they do not accept HD @ 50Hz. Have you tried outputting 720p@50Hz too?

The iScan HD does automatically detect which signal is being input and automatically changes it's output to match it, unless you override the framerate locks.

StooMonster

Whats the chances of us getting a update with more picture control options??

I would love to see Saturation/Hue controls for Red/Blue/Green and a Gamma adjustment

Is this possible DVDO guys??

Thanks

-Gary

Technically you shouldn't have a hue (phase) control with the primary colors like RGB. That is/was a holdover from the NTSC days where it was needed. Saturation is just an amplitude adjustment and shouldn't be hard to do.

Whats the chances of us getting a update with more picture control options??

I would love to see Saturation/Hue controls for Red/Blue/Green and a Gamma adjustment

Is this possible DVDO guys??

Thanks

-Gary

More picture controls would be great. My set allows a calibrator to specify the measured xyY coordinates of the set's native primaries. It then allows the calibrator to enter a set of desired pseudo primaries. This allows a calibrator to tune the set to precisely display 601 SD colorimetery or 709 HD colorimetery. It's a very cool feature. These modern digital displays often have primaries that are quite a bit off from the standards and accurate colorimetery results in a significantly different picture. I would love to see a feature like this in an external processor, both because I think a company like DVDO would do an excellent job and because I think a lot of people without such a feature in their set would benefit. I believe the math that needs to be applied to each pixel breaks down to a simple 3x3 matrix transform, though admittedly there is some slightly more complicated math in generating that transform. And yes you would need a colorimeter to gather accurate measured values, but I expect that most people that invest in an external scaler also invest in ISF calibration.

- Collin

Your main problem sounds like your tv is the cause, not the iScan.

1080i@50Hz not displaying picture but 60Hz working is common problem with many European tvs that are supposed to be "HD Ready", when really they do not accept HD @ 50Hz. Have you tried outputting 720p@50Hz too?

The iScan HD does automatically detect which signal is being input and automatically changes it's output to match it, unless you override the framerate locks.

StooMonster

Thanks Stoo, but 1080@50 does indeed display picture when source is PAL (with 50->source locked and 60 also source locked) and also if FRC is used to change 60->50Hz. This is a direct view HDTV CRT so unfortunately 720p either at 50 or 60 is not in the menu, even upscaled like in some US models.
My idea was to take advantage of the fact that the TV supports both 50 and 60Hz to display PAL and NTSC at their original FR and avoid FRC.
Of course the iScan detects whats being input but it doesnt change the output format automatically which is what I would like to avoid FRC.

Cheers

Thanks Stoo, but 1080@50 does indeed display picture when source is PAL (with 50->source locked and 60 also source locked) and also if FRC is used to change 60->50Hz. This is a direct view HDTV CRT so unfortunately 720p either at 50 or 60 is not in the menu, even upscaled like in some US models.
My idea was to take advantage of the fact that the TV supports both 50 and 60Hz to display PAL and NTSC at their original FR and avoid FRC.
Of course the iScan detects whats being input but it doesnt change the output format automatically which is what I would like to avoid FRC.

Cheers
I just reread your first post :o and what you are saying is that "RightRate" does not convert 60Hz material to 50Hz and vice-versa at 1080i resolution (i.e. "iScan ouput format is set to 1080i@50Hz and play a NTSC disc in the Sony the screen goes black until I change output to 1080i@60Hz, also if output is set at 1080i@60Hz and play a PAL disk the image is shifted quite a bit to the right and colours look too saturated.").

This is odd, and sounds like a problem; I'll try it myself on my display.

I run tonnes of 50Hz PAL and 60Hz NTSC material through my iScan and the output MHz always matches the input -- automatically.

Again, perhaps this is a problem at 1080i output; I'll try that on my display too and see if I can replicate your problem.

StooMonster

One other item I would like to see adjusted (to make the product just about perfect) would be a much smaller adjustment range of the Y/C delay, the range steps are just too broad

-Gary

Has anyone hooked up a HD+ to one of the new Sony SXRD TVs and have gone into the test patterns to see if you can get one to one pixel mapping on 1920 X 1080i ????

My reason for asking is that when viewing an SXRD on Thursday, I got the impression that there was quite a bit of filtering causing a lower resolution picture to be displayed than the 1080p advertised. I guess you could have 1080p chips that displays a lower resolution due to the electronics, but if that's the case, I think I'd wait until a set comes out that actually does display the full 1080 signal.

I'm not sure if running the HD+ in this mode would tell us anything, but I thought I'd ask.

Hi everybody,

I reported this error to DVDO help a couple of days ago, but got only an automated response regarding heavy requests to their help desk, so I decided to see if anyone here has had a similar problem.

I updated the firmware to the 2.91 version so that I could get 480i from a 79avi into the HD+. For about a week I was in heaven, until I reconnected my Pace 550 stb. I can no longer "surf" the HD channels. When I change the channel from one HD station to another, the HD+ lapses into a picture with one larger aspect ratio rapidly flashing on top of what appears to be the correct picture. Pressing the info button on the remote stops the problem. Since I was thoroughly po'd about this, I decided to just let the thing sit and see if it could resolve itself. After several minutes the message appears on screen: "Internal error EC00-. . . . Please report to help@DVDO.com. Push the power button on the front of the unit to continue." You push the power button, the unit goes off, turns itself back on after 5 seconds, and the picture is correct, until you try to change the channel again. Obviously something got screwed up with the firmware upgrade, since I was able to change channels flawlessly for eight months prior to the update.

Has anyone seen anything similar to this, and were you able to resolve it? I am not interested in messing with the HD+ every time I want to change the channel. Thanks.

Hello thamlet:

I have the same issue. The problem only seems to occur when the PACE 550 box switches between broadcast format (480P, 720P, 1080i). It doesn't happen all the time and yes the info button, when pressed in time, does seem to address this issue.

I have gotten around this problem by adding the "info" button feature, to the "E" button on my Harmony Remote.

Let us know what you find out...

Cheers!

Wow, that was blazing response time! Thanks for the info - I'm glad to know it's not a problem specific to my gear. This needs to be remedied, even if it is only specific to the HD+/550 combo, since the Pace is a widely used and great stb. I will let you know what I find out from DVDO. Thanks again.

Well, after receiving no further reply after the automated e-mail, I called customer support and gave them the error number. They confirmed that it is an "internal scaler error" and offered reverting back to a previous firmware version as a fix. Since I just bought a $1K DVD player that outputs 480i digital, I am not really interested in going back to previous firmware versions since they won't support 480i digitial input. He did mention that the next firmware version is supposed to address this issue and that they may begin work on this the first week of February. No guess as to the release date. Pretty frustrating.

Hi gang. This is bugging me so I'm hoping someone here can lend me a hand. First off here is my setup:

Proj : Infocus 7205
Scaler : Iscan HD+ (all sources run through scaler. Have both digital(DVI) and analog (HD-15) run to projector)
Receiver: Marantz SR-8200
Source1 - DirecTV H10 (component)
Source2 - Denon DVD-2900 (component to Marantz)
Source3 - XBOX360 (component to Marantz)
(S2 and S3 are component switched thru Marantz to HD+ due to only having 2 component inputs on HD+)

I know that I could run the H10 via HDMI->DVI to the HD+ and thus free up a component input on the HD but I would rather not at this point if possible. I also understand that the HD+ will not transcode analog HD to the digital (DVI)output so I use the analog output of the HD+ for my HD and XBOX360 viewing. I've been told that the VP30 does not have this limitation.


Here is the problem:
The XBOX360 has the ability to send out 480p, 720p and 1080i. The default is 480p and you can change this through the XBOX360 onscreen dashboard. When I try to change this to 720p or 1080i the screen goes blank and I get the 'searching for signal' message on the screen from the Infocus 7205. Then after about 15 seconds the XBOX360 dashboard comes back up on the screen and there is a message that says that since I didn't confirm that I could see the 720p (or 1080i) signal within 10 seconds that it reverted back to 480p. My guess is that there is some type of question on the screen that I cannot see that is looking for a user confirmation of the video change and since I can't see this screen the XBOX360 thinks I don't have a display with the ability for this so thus reverts back to the default 480p.

The HD+ will scale the 480p to 720p anyway since that is the native rate for the IF7205 but I want to be able to send the high-definition signal from the XBOX360 since this is one the main selling features of the new console. Could running the XBOX360 component through the receiver to the HD+ be adding some delay in the video handshake process? Anyone else running their XBOX360 through an HD+ that might be able to share any feedback on whether you saw this problem or not?

Thanks.

Researching the SR-8200, it appears that the component inputs are listed as "YCrCb", indicating that these inputs will only accept 480i/480p.

Luckily, the DB15 input (VGA) on the iScan HD+ will also accept HD component video. You'll probably have to set it in the menu to accept YPrPb instead of RGBHV. Use a 3RCA male to DB15 male cable such as the DVDO 11-2001-02.

Let us know how it turns out.

I'm having some probs stretching vertically using ZOOM and PAN.
ZOOM just isn't enough on many films...had to dial OVERSCAN to 8 to make a full screen, but then I loose the edges...
Any ideas guys?

Thanks

Barend (Holland)

Using:
DVDO HD+
Panny Plasma TH42-PWD6EX
DVD Player Marantz DV9600
hdmi 1.1

Researching the SR-8200, it appears that the component inputs are listed as "YCrCb", indicating that these inputs will only accept 480i/480p.

Luckily, the DB15 input (VGA) on the iScan HD+ will also accept HD component video. You'll probably have to set it in the menu to accept YPrPb instead of RGBHV. Use a 3RCA male to DB15 male cable such as the DVDO 11-2001-02.

Let us know how it turns out.


Bingo!! :eek: that is my problem then. I completely missed that in the SR-8200 documentation. That would explain why the 720p or 1080i signal from the XBOX360 never makes it to the HD+. I forgot to mention that I also use the VGA (analog passthru) input on the HD+ for a laptop connection in my theater so that is not an option. Looks like my solution, until I upgrade to the VP30, will be to run the H10 through the DVI input on the HD+ and then run the XBOX360 component straight to the freed up component input on the HD+.

Thanks for the quick response and for helping me to remember the mantra 'RTFM'. :)

I'm having some probs stretching vertically using ZOOM and PAN.
ZOOM just isn't enough on many films...had to dial OVERSCAN to 8 to make a full screen, but then I loose the edges...
Any ideas guys?

Thanks

Barend (Holland)

Using:
DVDO HD+
Panny Plasma TH42-PWD6EX
DVD Player Marantz DV9600
hdmi 1.1

Which software version do you have loaded into your HD+? To find out, press the 'Info' button and you will see the version number at the bottom of the pop-up window.

Anybody with an HD or HD+ using it with a Hitachi TX200 (HDP-J52)?? WHat resolutions have you tried over HDMI? 480p/576p and 720p are causing a chroma streaking on the Hitachi TX200 via HDMI. Just wondering if anybody has tried 960p or 1080p to see if its any different :)

480p via DVI from my iScan Ultra causing this problem. You can check by looking at Chapter 9 @ 57:00 from Chicago. During Roxie's dance number you will see streaking in the red Roxie lettering ONLY over HDMI and not over VGA.

thanx in advance for any feedback,

:)

If I want non linear scaling (equiv to cinema option on Pioneer) on 1080i do I have to use the VP30 or does the HD+ also support this?

If it does support NLS can I configure the settings?

TIA

If I want non linear scaling (equiv to cinema option on Pioneer) on 1080i do I have to use the VP30 or does the HD+ also support this?

If it does support NLS can I configure the settings?

TIA

I have the VP30 and it does not support NLS. DVDO has said this feature will be provided for the VP30 in a software upgrade.

Mike

Thanks Mike for the feedback. I actually did some more searching and read on another post that the HD+ does not have the processing power to handle NLS. As this is my primary requirement I think I will swap over to the Lugamen DVI.

Josh,

is it possible to run 72&75Hz with 1080P analog out with the VP 30

I can't switch to the higher scanrates in the menu (not highlighted)

this was possible with the HD+

I use analog input sources and use analog out to a CRT FP.

Thanks

Michael

Hi,
today I recive my SDI kit from Lenexpo-electronics,
only one problem,
when install the SDI kit on my Iscan HD+ (last firmwareHDP-6.7-2.91 ) when I turn on the unit for the first time (no SDI signal input) this error appear in the screen ERR-ECOO 761-025B turn off the unit ecc.ecc. I turn off and return on and now is ok,
I don't try with SDI DVD becouse I have one in the next days.

Any idea ?
I must try to reinstall the firmware update ?


Thank's and sorry for my bad English.
Maiocchi Fausto
Italy

I purchased a new HD+ a couple of weeks ago and have been experimenting with the setup options. I have read the majority of the post on this and the other iScan & NR threads to get a feel for what has and hasn't worked for others. I do not claim to be an A/V expert, just an interested participant trying to share and learn from others with much more knowledge and experience. I used the NR options supplied by Josh on the NR thread for the Panasonic TH-50PHD7UK. I am connecting from an RCA210 HD DirectTV receiver using DVI out to the HDMI input on the monitor and from the test patterns, it appears to be mapped correctly. (1:1) It did require some minor tweaking to completely fill the screen for all of the formats. (SD&HD 4:3, HD16:9) I do see improvement with HD images and maybe some slight improvement with SD images, but it also seems to have introduced some noise on the outer edges of the image that I did not see previously. Most of that was minimized when I adjusted the overscan to fill the screen. (Also, before the HD+, I was using component and not the DVI connection, which may be part of the reason that I notice more noise now with the Digital signal.) I also tried the analog connections through the HD+, but I did not see enough improvement in the SD image quality that outweighed the loss in the improvements for the HD images because the HD+ was no longer doing the processing. Using DVI, the HD receiver is sending all the signals at 720p. It looks much better than sending them at 1080i. I may have missed something, but I could not figure out a way to get the receiver to send the signals natively without do any processing. I also tried the S-video connection to see if it dramatically improved the SD images. The images were much cleaner, since it was sending the HD+ a 480i signal, but the colors and contrast were extremely washed out. The only issue I have seen with the video is some occasional green blocking, but it is very rare. I haven't started experimenting with my DVD player or Panasonic AE700U, but from what I have read, this is where I am expecting the most improvements and I will wait until then before passing final judgement.

I am using the fiber connection for audio through the HD+ to my A/V receiver. I am having some issues with occasional loud pops when I change channels and unless there is something to fix this issue, I will have to start bypassing the HD+ for audio. I am am pretty sure I have the current software and firmware release. I have never had this audio issue before inserting the HD+ and I have had the other equipment setup for over a year. I saw this being discussed in the VP30 thread, but I did not seen it in the HD+ thread.

AFAIK, the VP30 and the Iscan HD+ have identical timings on DVI/HDMI (I have both units).

I certainly don't notice any difference in timing between the two (values that work for one work identically for the other).

I heard there's a new software update coming. Any new features or just bug fixes?

JaniH,

for HD+ or VP30?

JaniH,

for HD+ or VP30?Sorry, I meant HD+.

When I called regarding the error message I was getting when changing channels on the stb, they did say that it would be alleviated by a coming firmware release. They were hopefully starting work on it the first week of Feb. They did not say what other fixes or enhancements might be included, and gave no eta.

Bingo!! :eek: that is my problem then. I completely missed that in the SR-8200 documentation. That would explain why the 720p or 1080i signal from the XBOX360 never makes it to the HD+. I forgot to mention that I also use the VGA (analog passthru) input on the HD+ for a laptop connection in my theater so that is not an option. Looks like my solution, until I upgrade to the VP30, will be to run the H10 through the DVI input on the HD+ and then run the XBOX360 component straight to the freed up component input on the HD+.

Thanks for the quick response and for helping me to remember the mantra 'RTFM'. :)

I wanted to respond back to this thread from a few weeks back and report my results. After rerouting the component video from the XBOX360 straight to the HD+ I was able to get the device to route the 720p and 1080i from the game console. The Marantz SR-8200 was the problem just as gnomey responded about. Looks like the component in on that receiver only accepts 480i/p.

Thanks again for the tip gnomey! :)

Does anybody know a cure for this kind of sparkling with HD+:

http://www.savefile.com/projects/260598 (videos aren't from me)

I'm using vga output. Same thing with sdi and rgbs inputs. Another HD model plays fine in my system.

JaniH - You mention that you tried both an HD and HD+ in your post, is this correct? What software version is loaded into each unit?

JaniH - You mention that you tried both an HD and HD+ in your post, is this correct? What software version is loaded into each unit?Yes, I'm in the process of upgrading an HD to HD+. The software versions are the newest ones: HD-5.6-1.42 and HDP-6.7-2.91. It seems as this sparkling occurs only with NTSC material, not with PAL. But it's too early to say this for certain. (Wrong alert, it happens also on PAL.)

Downgrading to software version HDP-5.6-2.32 seems to eliminate this problem. However this can't be a permanent solution as the features the new software was offering was the only reason I was upgrading to HD+. I tried twice reinstalling the newest software but it didn't help. Any suggestions on how to fix this or what else to do?

edit: I'm returning the set, so my fight with this is over.

Well, after receiving no further reply after the automated e-mail, I called customer support and gave them the error number. They confirmed that it is an "internal scaler error" and offered reverting back to a previous firmware version as a fix. Since I just bought a $1K DVD player that outputs 480i digital, I am not really interested in going back to previous firmware versions since they won't support 480i digitial input. He did mention that the next firmware version is supposed to address this issue and that they may begin work on this the first week of February. No guess as to the release date. Pretty frustrating.

To follow up on this problem, I ended up switching to a SA8300 DVR after a botched TWC firmware upgrade disabled the Pace box. The SA stb does not surface the HD+ "channel change" bug, and it is comparable in image quality to the Pace, so I would suggest switching if you are trying to use the HD+ and have the option to switch. I never received any more communication regarding the problem, and judging by other threads here, DVDO has their hands full with the VP30.

I have a HD+ which used to display random black dots on the display which were only visible when standing up to the screen. So i had the board replaced which made those dots go away. It is currently software 5.6-2.91, but it used to be 6.7-2.91 and now i can't send a 480i signal thru my pioneer 989 (79), which i could before i had the board replaced. What do you think might be the problem?