Maybe this isn't the best thread for this but has anyone used the Memory stick input? I recently scanned a bunch of old family photos, loaded them onto a MS, and WOW! What a show!

Maybe this isn't the best thread for this but has anyone used the Memory stick input? I recently scanned a bunch of old family photos, loaded them onto a MS, and WOW! What a show!

I agree really a great feature. Also works well for short video playback saved to memory stick from your computer.

Originally posted by Mtnmike
Also works well for short video playback saved to memory stick from your computer.

oh, cool. How does this work... what video files are supported? Is there a video player built into the memory stick display menu?

The set can play MPEG1 movies from the memory stick

For all those with a GWIV that are experiencing cable card problems (either dropped channels or error messages) their is a firmware update from Sony. The update is dated January 14th. The firmware update is on a media stick and the flash process only takes about a minute to complete. I called Sony about 2 weeks ago and they denied that an update existed, but the local repair shop here in Bakersfield knew about it and had been busy going around and doing all the upgrades. I had the upgrade yesterday and so far so good.

Originally posted by jeadams
For all those with a GWIV that are experiencing cable card problems (either dropped channels or error messages) their is a firmware update from Sony. The update is dated January 14th.
Do you happen to know whether this firmware update addresses anything else beyond the cable card problems?

Thanks,

Michael

can the firmware be downloaded into the tv while it sits insode my home or do I have to take it somewhere?(if I need the firmware)

I'm curious as well as to how the firmware update is done, via the memory stick?

I guess my error (161-6) was to much for just a firmware update. Sony sent out a repair tech. and he replaced the cable card interface box. He didn't do anything with the memory stick. So far, so good (knock on wood)

Desso

I first herd about the update from gdmedia a few weeks ago. He has an XS model and was receiving the 161 cable card error. He purchased through Sears and contacted their repair. Sony then sent him the update on a media stick directly. I just corresponded with him and so far no more 161 errors. I have a WF model built in Nov 04. I called Sony and spoke to 2 different people. Both stated no updates available for my model. I was given this URL: http://esupport.sony.com/perl/modelpage.pl?template=EN&mdl=KDF55WF655#
and was told that if an update was available it would appear under the support news. I had been having cable card problems for 3 months. I never received any errors, but it would start to loose channels about every 2 weeks. I would have to unplug the set, remove the card, and plug back in, turn on, and go into the TV menu and reset the cable card. Then wait for 45 minutes to 8 hours until the channels would reappear. Last week it lost channels again and I tried to reset but no luck. A tech from Bright House came yesterday. When he walked in the first thing he said was did I get the update yet?. I explained that Sony told me no update was available. He stated that last month a Sony engineer was here and actually rode around with him for a week checking out the problem. He gave me the phone number of the local authorized repair shop. I called them and they happened to have a tech in the area. When he came he said they have been busy doing the Sony updates. The update in on a media stick. He inserted it with the TV on and a menu appeared and the update started. The menu was divided into 2 boxes. Left side was the media stick, right side was what my TV had. Their were approximately 6 or 7 lines in each box. Everything was the same except for the last line. I believe the word software was present and I saw a date of January 14th. The update took only about a minute. After the update I had to unplug the TV while it was on. I questioned him about this and he showed me the instructions to confirm. I unplugged for about 15 seconds and then plugged it back in. Probably lost a few days off my lamp life but it fixes the problem then OK. The Bright House tech then returned and put a new cable card in (same firmware date, Oct 04 I believe) The TV then mapped all channels within a minute. That was yesterday and all is OK so far. I cannot comment on if this update fixes anything else. If you need the update it would appear that you have to go through Sony repair to get it.

Dang...someone needs to copy the contents of this memory stick and make it available to us here!

WOW all Digital ?


IQ Knowledge Base Article - 305176

Summary:
Will the High Definition Multimedia Interface (HDMI) connection produce a better picture than using the Y, Pb, Pr connection?

Resolution:

The picture using the High Definition Multimedia Interface (HDMI) connection should be slightly better than using the Y, Pb, Pr connection. Since the video information is sent in digital format, the colors should be reproduced more accurately and the picture should be slightly sharper.

Originally posted by drwtsn32
Dang...someone needs to copy the contents of this memory stick and make it available to us here!


No kidding. We could save Sony a ton of money.

To bad it isn't likely to happen.

Originally posted by jeadams
I first herd about the update from gdmedia a few weeks ago. He has an XS model and was receiving the 161 cable card error. He purchased through Sears and contacted their repair.

Wow that is great news. I have the 161-5 error with my cable card on my XS, AND I bought from Sears.

Originally posted by Andrew535
No kidding. We could save Sony a ton of money.

To bad it isn't likely to happen.

and then maybe they can sell us replacment bulbs for half the price they are now.

not to changed the topic here suddenly but can anyone give me some insight on getting a bulb replacement within the 1 year of ownership under Sonys warranty? Will sony even cover it? if so then what is the usual turn around time for a replacement to be sent or installed for me. This is all assuming that the the bulb blew out under the 1 year warranty and not afterwards.

Originally posted by BOTTLEDZ28
and then maybe they can sell us replacment bulbs for half the price they are now.

not to changed the topic here suddenly but can anyone give me some insight on getting a bulb replacement within the 1 year of ownership under Sonys warranty? Will sony even cover it? if so then what is the usual turn around time for a replacement to be sent or installed for me. This is all assuming that the the bulb blew out under the 1 year warranty and not afterwards.

Be nice IF they cover the bulb the first year, they had a quick means of getting you a new one to minimize your downtime. Would not hurt them to pack a spare with every TV purchase...now I am dreaming!

Originally posted by BOTTLEDZ28
and then maybe they can sell us replacment bulbs for half the price they are now.

not to changed the topic here suddenly but can anyone give me some insight on getting a bulb replacement within the 1 year of ownership under Sonys warranty? Will sony even cover it? if so then what is the usual turn around time for a replacement to be sent or installed for me. This is all assuming that the the bulb blew out under the 1 year warranty and not afterwards.
If you push the issue and have the Hours of operation on the lamp they should step up to the plate. Sony reps told me that I should get 3000-4000 hours on a bulb. After failing a XL2100 bulb assembly at 1500 hours they insisted that there must be a lamp driver issue. I had the local sony repair facility come out and verify the lamp drivers operation. The driver was fine and the repair facility ordered a replacement lamp which I installed myself when it came in. It seems from other posts that there seemed to be a service life issue with the early XL2100U series lamps. Just don't give up especially if your are still in warranty.
Good luck.

Originally posted by drwtsn32
Dang...someone needs to copy the contents of this memory stick and make it available to us here!

There is no way Sony would ever allow individual customers to apply a firmware upgrade (fix) on their own. If there is a firmware fix only an authorized Sony repairperson will be authorized to apply the fix.

If you get your hands on a firmware version and do the upgrade yourself your warranty or extended warranty will be null and void.

Originally posted by videoaddikt
Be nice IF they cover the bulb the first year, they had a quick means of getting you a new one to minimize your downtime. Would not hurt them to pack a spare with every TV purchase...now I am dreaming!


Sony does cover the lamp for the first year. As for the rest...

Originally posted by Mtnmike
There is no way Sony would ever allow individual customers to apply a firmware upgrade (fix) on their own.


RCA did it right. The new Scenium sets have an Ethernet port on the back. RCA encourages owners to connect to the internet and download software updates.

Originally posted by Mtnmike
There is no way Sony would ever allow individual customers to apply a firmware upgrade (fix) on their own.
I don't know.. I saw one posting on Google Groups where Sony sent him a memory stick and he applied the firmware himself. It's entirely automatic.. put the memory stick in and watch it do its thing.

I don't know.. I saw one posting on Google Groups where Sony sent him a memory stick and he applied the firmware himself. It's entirely automatic.. put the memory stick in and watch it do its thing.

I have my doubts about that simply because there are a lot of people in this world who can't follow the simplest of instructions. But in any event if the firmware was not provided directly to the consumer by Sony, and was obtained in some other way, your warranty would be null & void.

Personally I am not so trusting to insert a firmware upgrade from a 3rd party who I really know nothing about other than being on a forum somewhere. Or for that matter not knowing the actual source of the "firmware fix" I am downloading on to a memory stick to insert into my several thousand hard earned dollar TV set.

In todays' world there are people who would take great pleasure in circulating a firmware that resulted in hundreds of fried Grand Wegas. Your set would be fried, warranty void and you would have no recourse legal or otherwise to locate or pursue damages from the originator. You would have bragging rights to the world's biggest "door stop". Just my thoughts.

Mtnmike, while I think you are looking at the "worst possible scenario," your point is definitely valid.

Actually if Sony is willing to send out a tech or just the firmware so that I can fix the annoying nfo banner pop ups, I'd be happy. That's the only thing I see that's "wrong" with the TV right now.

I've just connected HDMI to my 55SX955 via my TWC SA8300HD and encountered the 2 channel problem of not being able to receive 5.1.

I've attempted a work around by using the Optical Audio out from the Sony to my Denon receiver. My expectation is that HDMI feeds audio to Sony (yep the Sony speakers verify that), which I can route via the Optical Audio out to the Receiver. I get no sound at all.

I've tried with the Sony Audio off and on, and with Variable and Fixed settings. Still no sound. I've tried with a little volume on, and totally off on the Sony, too. Still no sound.

For the receiver side, I've set Optical to "TV" and Coax to "off" without success. However, using coax from my STB with the receiver set to "TV" and Optical to "Off" the audio from my STB via Coax does work.

The Optical cable is good, since it works from my STB to Receiver, too (but only for 2 channel like the coax).

Only other thing is that the port for the Optical Out on the Sony doesn't have the same, snug "snap" or feel when I connect the optical cord as my DVD or STB when connecting the same optical cord.

1. Shouldn't this work?
2. Suggestions?

Thanks!

IamtheWolf, the problem does not reside in your optical cable, your receiver, or your TV.

The problem is the HDMI cable. Even though HDMI has the capability to carry Dolby Digital (can transfer 16 GB/sec)...it is unfortunately built in a way that hinders transmission of Dolby Digital currently. Do a Google search for "HDMI Dolby Digital" and there will be numerous technical articles that talk about how HDMI is lacking for audio (namely, Dolby Digital 5.1).

So just connect the STB to the receiver with an optical. That would be your easiest fix.

NOTE: The TV's optical out is perfectly fine and if you want to test it, simply get a OTA broadcast of a DD station such as FOX, ABC, or PBS. Your receiver will receive audio from the TV's optical out and in addition to that, your receiver will let you know that the audio is also encoded in Dolby Digital.

Originally posted by IamtheWolf
I've just connected HDMI to my 55SX955 via my TWC SA8300HD and encountered the 2 channel problem of not being able to receive 5.1.

I've attempted a work around by using the Optical Audio out from the Sony to my Denon receiver. My expectation is that HDMI feeds audio to Sony (yep the Sony speakers verify that), which I can route via the Optical Audio out to the Receiver. I get no sound at all.

I've tried with the Sony Audio off and on, and with Variable and Fixed settings. Still no sound. I've tried with a little volume on, and totally off on the Sony, too. Still no sound.

For the receiver side, I've set Optical to "TV" and Coax to "off" without success. However, using coax from my STB with the receiver set to "TV" and Optical to "Off" the audio from my STB via Coax does work.

The Optical cable is good, since it works from my STB to Receiver, too (but only for 2 channel like the coax).

Only other thing is that the port for the Optical Out on the Sony doesn't have the same, snug "snap" or feel when I connect the optical cord as my DVD or STB when connecting the same optical cord.

1. Shouldn't this work?
2. Suggestions?

Thanks!

It seems that the HDMI cables audio connection forces the SA8300 into 2 channel audio. I have an older sony with only a DVI connection I am connected via a HDMI to DVI cable and have the SA8300 connected to my receiver via Optical and have no problem with the Dolby 5.1. If your connections are HDMI to HDMI you may want to try using an HDMI to DVI cable in conjunction with a DVI to HDMI adapter. This should isolate the audio connection on the HDMI connection but still allow the Video to be digital. I believe realcable.com carries the adapter.

Originally posted by IamtheWolf


Only other thing is that the port for the Optical Out on the Sony doesn't have the same, snug "snap" or feel when I connect the optical cord as my DVD or STB when connecting the same optical cord.

1. Shouldn't this work?
2. Suggestions?

Thanks!

Sounds like the problem I had when I tried my optical hook-up. There is a little plastic plate in the optical cable socket that acts as a plug to protect the socket until you need insert the cable. You can accidentally push into the socket when you try to insert that cable the first time. If it is in there the cable won't seat properly and it may also block the optical light output. If there is no red light coming out of the socket or the other end of the cable when it is in the socket that is probably the problem. Get a flashlight and a very small screwdriver (jewelers size) look in the socket - if you see a flat plastic plate thats it. You should be able to tap one edge of the plate lightly and get it to fall down in the socket. One it does that it will be easy to get out. Then the cable wil go in properly.

Originally posted by ehlarson
Sounds like the problem I had when I tried my optical hook-up. ..

Nope, the small plastic cover is attached, and it flops down when I touch it with the screwdriver. The optical light is exposed, but it is not red (not on?).

Thanks

Originally posted by Squawks
So just connect the STB to the receiver with an optical. That would be your easiest fix....

I did, but it still results in 2 channel, not 5.1

Originally posted by eddiscus
....try using an HDMI to DVI cable in conjunction with a DVI to HDMI adapter. This should isolate the audio connection on the HDMI connection but still allow the Video to be digital. I believe realcable.com carries the adapter.

Thanks, I read that work around and I'm hoping to avoid it (cost). I guess the DVI (non-audio) remediates the problem.

Originally posted by IamtheWolf
I did, but it still results in 2 channel, not 5.1

Here, from what you said, the problem is not in the cable, but either your STB or your receiver. The optical cable can either send or don't send the data. In this case, it is perfectly working if it results in 2 channel.

1) Your sources are not Dolby Digital. Set your STB to a Dolby Digital channel like FOX, ABC, or PBS.
2) Your receiver isn't set to DD somehow.

Originally posted by Squawks
Here, from what you said, the problem is not in the cable, but either your STB or your receiver. The optical cable can either send or don't send the data. In this case, it is perfectly working if it results in 2 channel.

1) Your sources are not Dolby Digital. Set your STB to a Dolby Digital channel like FOX, ABC, or PBS.
2) Your receiver isn't set to DD somehow.

Thanks. It is on DD channel (DSC, TNT, HBO, etc.) and the receiver is set to DD.

I'm not sure why you're suggesting that optical would work for 5.1 from the STB when coax doesn't. I'm thinking if the HDMI creates the 2 channel problem (out from STB), then either optical out or coax direct to receiver would produce the same result (it does, 2 channel).

So you've never got Dolby Digital to ever work out of your STB? Especially through coax/optical? Then by all means, I must say your STB is at fault!

But have you ever got 5.1 to work before? I'm just assuming your STB can output Dolby Digital for some absurd reason then...

Originally posted by Squawks
So you've never got Dolby Digital to ever work out of your STB? Especially through coax/optical? Then by all means, I must say your STB is at fault!

But have you ever got 5.1 to work before? I'm just assuming your STB can output Dolby Digital for some absurd reason then...

Yes it can, but when using component. I'm now using a new HDMI cable. Previously the audio went direct to receiver (no problem, all good). Now with the 2 channel problem with the STB, I'm trying audio through the Sony (out).

The STB now only sends 2 channel (coax or optical) as expected (known problem) to the receiver. I'm hoping the hdmi to the Sony (and then out) allows for the DD.

Problem is, I can't get anything out of the Sony - not even 2 channel.

IamtheWolf, it seems that either your optical out on your TV is faulty, or you are not plugging in the cord all the way. For my 55XS, I can feel a 'snap' when plugging in the optical cable. Usually that's the case for all the optical ports I've seen so far. The 55XS optical port isn't that loud of a snap, however. I can feel a slight click, though.

Originally posted by Squawks
IamtheWolf, it seems that either your optical out on your TV is faulty, or you are not plugging in the cord all the way. For my 55XS, I can feel a 'snap' when plugging in the optical cable. Usually that's the case for all the optical ports I've seen so far. The 55XS optical port isn't that loud of a snap, however. I can feel a slight click, though.
I'm suspecting that may be the case. Unlike when I use the same cable on my STB and DVD out (where the cable works fine), there is no noticable snap with the Sony. Someone suggested their "flap" was removed (or pushed in and then removed). Mine seems to be intact, and just drops down at insertion. Is that what is what should happen? I'm reluctant to remove the flap.

Also, should the light be lit (on? red?) and easily visible with the flap down? I see it, but its not lit.

Thanks for commenting and helping.

Edit:
I don't think what I'm trying to do can be done, unless someone has actually done this and can verify it works.

Here's why:
I hooked up the SA8300HD with both HDMI and Component to the Sony with a direct audio feed from STB to Receiver via coax, and another via optical from Sony to the Receiver. The coax works and the optical doesn't. When I use component/coax my receiver indicates DD and a "digital signal" for any input but 7 (HDMI). When I cycle through the inputs and hit input 7, the "digital signal" drops and the DD auto switches to PLII.

On page 50 of the Sony User Manual it reads "The DIGITAL AUDIO (OPTICAL) OUT jack is available only when a digital TV channel is received."
Thus I believe the "2 channel problem" with the SA8300HD that doesn't allow DD 5.1 when using HDMI extends to attempting to route the audio via the Sony.

The only work around that succeeds that I'm aware of is going HDMI to DVI and back to HDMI (since DVI doesn't carry audio). This option is not acceptable since it doesn't allow for using the Sony's speakers with the receiver off, and is expensive (and has too many links).

If I'm wrong about this conclusion, please let me know.

From what I read the problem lies in the 8300 STB. Apparently when you enable HDMI it changes to Dolby 2.0 and you can't even get to the setting menu to change it. It is something that needs to be addressed in the firmware to allow 5.1 but I have not heard of any timeframe. You might want to take it up with your cable provider. Until then, you have to use component connections for 5.1 output from the STB.

Originally posted by kdog044
From what I read the problem lies in the 8300 STB. Apparently when you enable HDMI it changes to Dolby 2.0 and you can't even get to the setting menu to change it. It is something that needs to be addressed in the firmware to allow 5.1 but I have not heard of any timeframe. You might want to take it up with your cable provider. Until then, you have to use component connections for 5.1 output from the STB.

Done. You are 100% correct. Sorry for so many posts, but glad (once again) that the Sony (whether the model, or my unit) is NOT the problem. By now I should know better.

You can get to the menu/settings in your STB, but your provider has to enable it using firmware from SA (in my case TWC). Its simply "Audio: Digital Out" and documented in the SA User Guide for the SA8300HD unit. These are new here in Raleigh, but have been out - and the problem has been resolved elsewhere after earlier rollout.

Thanks all for the help.

My dad just got the KDF60WF655 today and it should be delivered tomorrow. Since I have a Cineos and his is true HDTV I really don't know how to handle Direct TV. When he calls about upgrading to HD programming should he ask for just the service or will he need a reciever as well? Could someone clear this up for me please?

He will need a HD satellite receiver to receive satellite HD signals from DirecTV or any satellite provider. The cable and antennae inputs on the back of the set will receive and convert HD transmissions for cable or OTA (outdoor over the air antennae) signals and will not work with satellite.

Thanks Mike. Too bad Direct TV can't work with the HDTV companies instead of forcing people to use their HD reciever. Wouldn't that hurt the quality of the HD PQ having to go through the Direct & the built-in recievers or does it not go through the built in?

Originally posted by kdog044
From what I read the problem lies in the 8300 STB. Apparently when you enable HDMI it changes to Dolby 2.0

Somewhat correct. The problem isn't really the STB, but HDMI. HDMI today does not support full Dolby Digital 5.1. Google HDMI Dolby Digital for more information. It is not that the STB is switching to Dolby 2.0, but DD5.1 won't work over HDMI.

It is a flaw of the STB, however, that it cannout output via HDMI *and* optical out simultaneously. Can be easily fixed with a firmware like kdog said.

EDIT: IamtheWolf, again I advise you to do the Googling. I am pretty surprised myself that HDMI does not support DD5.1 currently and even so, most of the public aren't even aware of this. The philes from the Qualia 006 were actually the first ones to point this out.

Originally posted by Squawks

EDIT: IamtheWolf, again I advise you to do the Googling.

Done. Thanks. This appeared among many.
http://news.designtechnica.com/print_talkback45.html

I still can use the firmware from TWC since it apparently also enables the coax and optical outs on the STB. I'll use either for DD 5.1 instead of HDMI.

Nice to be accurately informed. Many thanks!
E

Originally posted by Squawks
Somewhat correct. The problem isn't really the STB, but HDMI. HDMI today does not support full Dolby Digital 5.1. Actually this isn't an accurate statement. HDMI supports DD and DTS. The problem is not all STB's, DVD players, and displays have the circuitry to process the 5.1 signals. You have to research the products you are interested in to verify. I know the Sony 975 upconverting player indicates it passes DD and DTS but if the receiving end can't support it then it outputs PCM.

Wouldn't that hurt the quality of the HD PQ having to go through the Direct & the built-in recievers or does it not go through the built in?

No it does not go through your built-in HD receiver. Your DirecTV HD receiver does ATSC converting and then delivers it via the component or HDMI input of your television.

You can run your (over the air) OTA antennae's cable for local HD broadcasting from your antennae directly to your "antennae" input on your set and the TV's built-in HD receiver processes that HD signal.

Originally posted by kdog044
Actually this isn't an accurate statement. HDMI supports DD and DTS. The problem is not all STB's, DVD players, and displays have the circuitry to process the 5.1 signals. You have to research the products you are interested in to verify. I know the Sony 975 upconverting player indicates it passes DD and DTS but if the receiving end can't support it then it outputs PCM.

The statement above is correct! The answer is clearly stated on page 7 of the 8300 "Getting Started Guide" Here's an excerpt:

**********************************************
Some HDTV’s do not contain circuitry to decode Dolby Digital formatted content. If you connect your DVR to an HDTV that cannot support Dolby Digital audio, the HDMI interface instructs the DVR to switch its audio outputs to 2-channel PCM audio (to be compatible with the HDTV). In this case, all digital audio output on the DVR are formatted as 2-channel PCM. As a result, you will not be able to receive Dolby Digital or DTS audio on your home theater system when connected to either the optical or coax (RCA Connector) S/PDIF ports. You can avoid this by overriding the automatic configuration through the General Settings menu and switching the audio output to Dolby Digital.

IMPORTANT: If you HDTV cannot decode Dolby Digital formatted content and you have configured the DVR to output in the Dolby Digital format, you will not be able to listen to audio through the TV. Instead, you must use your home theater or your Dolby Digital decoding device in or to hear audio. Alternatively, you can reconfigure the DVR to output 2-channel or PCM any time you want to use the TV to produce the audio portion of the content by selecting HDMI in the General Settings – Audio Output screen. Depending upon your capabilities to select alternate audio sources for input, other configurations may be possible.
**********************************************

I hope this helps...

- Eran

Originally posted by decalofashion The statement above is correct! The answer is clearly stated on page 7 of the 8300 "Getting Started Guide" Here's an excerpt:

**********************************************
Some HDTV’s do not contain circuitry to decode Dolby Digital formatted content. If you connect your DVR to an HDTV that cannot support Dolby Digital audio, the HDMI interface instructs the DVR to switch its audio outputs to 2-channel PCM audio (to be compatible with the HDTV). In this case, all digital audio output on the DVR are formatted as 2-channel PCM. Thanks for proving my point Eran.:D

On my Cineos HDVD players suck because the TV does a great job of upconverting & making the signal look good, so a regular DVD player actually looks better. My next question is about HDVD players. Do they look better than regular DVD players on this set? If so, which one has had the best results for you guys?

Also, what is the best way to setup a Dolby 5.1 reciever with this TV? I see people are having problems with HDMI, but that's fine because we're going to use his Direct TV on the HDMI. Couldn't you run an optical line from the DTV to the Dolby 5.1 reciever to get surround sound & have the HD picture? What about DVD players? Is it a similar situation?

PS-please quit arguing guys, some of us need to learn how to optimize the use of our new sets & nobody cares if you're right or wrong. You're probably arguing with some obnoxious, self-righteous teenager anyways so let it go.

Originally posted by decalofashion
If you connect your DVR to an HDTV that cannot support Dolby Digital audio, the HDMI interface instructs the DVR to switch its audio outputs to 2-channel PCM audio (to be compatible with the HDTV).

Here's the million dollar question. Is the XS955 capable of decoding DD through HDMI? So far, nobody has gotten DD5.1 to work through HDMI thus far (even the 006 folks), despite the fact that HDMI has the full potential to support it, as I already said earlier.

Decalo, I'm also curious - on the 8300 manual does it only speak of the TV's HDMI port to be used only an an input from the DVR to the TV? Or can the TV also output video to the DVR to be recorded via HDMI?

The box that my 60WF655 came in clearly indicated that it supports Dolby Digital. As per Sony the set does have a DD 5.1 decoder. The Sony tech clearly indicated that the limitation is the HDMI 1.0 spec.

I am using both HDMI and component from the 8300. When I want to fire up the Home Theater, I use component input(input 5) and the DD signal is sent directly to my receiver. When I just want to watch TV, I use the HDMI input. I have set my Harmony remote to automatically choose the input depending on the activity selected.

Originally posted by garymil
The box that my 60WF655 came in clearly indicated that it supports Dolby Digital. As per Sony the set does have a DD 5.1 decoder. The Sony tech clearly indicated that the limitation is the HDMI 1.0 spec.



I've been sitting on the sidelines too long on this one.

Yes the set does have a DD 5.1 decoder but it isn't in the signal path from the HDMI connector.

The digital signal from the HDMI reciver chip is converted to 2-ch analog on the P board. From there HDMI audio goes to the analog audio switch that is used to select the analog inputs on the back of the set.

Originally posted by garymil
The box that my 60WF655 came in clearly indicated that it supports Dolby Digital. As per Sony the set does have a DD 5.1 decoder. The Sony tech clearly indicated that the limitation is the HDMI 1.0 spec. I believe the actual current specification is 1.1. Here is what it says in regards to audio. From what I can tell, although not an expert in audio by any means, is that the source and or receiver (sink?) is required to support at least 2.0 if using HDMI for audio but can support higher transmissions (see bold type). I think it goes back to the source and receiving devices and not a limitation of the specification. I know some display manufacturers only support 5.1 from digital TV (i.e. cable card) out their digital audio connection.

If an HDMI Source supports audio transmission across any output, then it shall support HDMI audio transmission. Exceptions to this rule for Sources with Type B connectors are found in Appendix B.
If an HDMI Source supports any HDMI audio transmission, then it shall support 2 channel L-PCM using an IEC 60958 Subpacket structure, with either 32kHz, 44.1kHz or 48kHz sampling rate and a sample size of 16 bits or more. An HDMI Source is permitted to transmit L-PCM or encoded audio data at sample rates of 32kHz, 44.1kHz, 48kHz, 88.2kHz, 96kHz, 176.4kHz and 192kHz using either IEC 60958 format or IEC 61937 format.
Transmitted audio shall have an audio sample rate (fS) within 1000 ppm of the sample rate indicated in Channel Status bits 24 through 27. If an HDMI Sink supports audio reception across any input, then it shall support audio reception from all HDMI inputs. An HDMI Sink that is capable of accepting any audio format is required to accept two channel IEC 60958-formatted L-PCM audio at sample rates of 32kHz, 44.1kHz, and 48kHz. A Sink shall support the reception of an audio stream with correct sample rate indication in Channel Status bits 24 through 27 and with a sample rate (fS) within 1000 ppm of any supported sample rate. For EIA/CEA-861B references to Sources, “Basic Audio” is defined as two channel L-PCM audio at sample rates of 32kHz, 44.1kHz, or 48kHz, with a sample size of at least 16 bits. For EIA/CEA-861B references to DTV devices, “Basic Audio” is defined as two channel L-PCM audio at sample rates of 32kHz, 44.1kHz, and 48kHz. There is no sample size usage restriction for DTV devices. An HDMI Sink may optionally accept audio at sample rates of 88.2kHz, 96kHz, 176.4kHz and/or 192kHz using either IEC 60958 format or IEC 61937 format, and should indicate these capabilities in the E-EDID data structure. An HDMI Repeater shall support HDMI audio reception and transmission. Whenever transmitting a valid audio stream, HDMI Sources shall always include valid and correct
sample rate information in Channel Status bits 24 through 27 of the audio sample packets, per Table 7-4. An HDMI audio stream shall only indicate values shown in Table 7-4. Note that the allowed values do not include the IEC 60958-specified “Sample frequency not indicated” value.

has anyone ever heard of a computer PCI card that has HDMI? wondering if these cards are coming out so a single cable can run from hdmi output from computer to hdmi input on tv and equipment. if this is the new standard, this would be awesome.

Originally posted by Liquidous
has anyone ever heard of a computer PCI card that has HDMI?

Currently, not that I personally know of. DVI output vid cards are widespread, however. Also, PCI is personally too slow for me...go for AGP 4X or PCI Express. I'm not sure why there is a need for HDMI outputting video cards, either - even with DVI vid cards you still have one cable coming out of the PC into the TV...the only other cable I can think of would be audio from PC into TV/receiver. From the posts above, it really seems to me that DD5.1 is not a standard for HDMI. A flaw in my opinion.

The latest & greatest video cards (cost upwards of $450-500+) have dual DVI outputs, but no HDMI. With the Powerstrip program you can probably use a DVI to HDI connector & run it to the HDMI, which is probably pointless, but it could probably be done. I have no idea what settings you would need to use to make it work properly on this TV as I have a Cineos.

I asked some questions above about HDVD players & 5.1 audio with this TV as I am trying to get my dad's all setup. Thanks to anyone who helps.

***Correction, I found a video card today with dual DVI for around $175.

Originally posted by garymil: The box that my 60WF655 came in clearly indicated that it supports Dolby Digital. As per Sony the set does have a DD 5.1 decoder. The Sony tech clearly indicated that the limitation is the HDMI 1.0 spec.

So Garymil if an OTA HD signal with DD5.1 is being received through the TV's antennae input then I assume (based on your statement) it is sent to the TV's DD 5.1 decoder and if one used the Fiber Optical out from the Sony GW to their DD 5.1 capable receiver the sound from the receiver would be true DD 5.1, is that correct?

Just for info I currently run a Sony Upconverting DVD player via HDMI to the TV, but split the sound via Fiber Optical cable from the DVD player to the receiver. I have no idea what sound is being reproduced by the TV since I have never checked that.

Originally posted by Mtnmike
So Garymil if an OTA HD signal with DD5.1 is being received through the TV's antennae input then I assume (based on your statement) it is sent to the TV's DD 5.1 decoder and if one used the Fiber Optical out from the Sony GW to their DD 5.1 capable receiver the sound from the receiver would be true DD 5.1, is that correct?


Over the Air 5.1 Dolby sound has no problems from the optical out on the back of the GWIVs.

Originally posted by Andrew535
I've been sitting on the sidelines too long on this one.

Yes the set does have a DD 5.1 decoder but it isn't in the signal path from the HDMI connector.

The digital signal from the HDMI reciver chip is converted to 2-ch analog on the P board. From there HDMI audio goes to the analog audio switch that is used to select the analog inputs on the back of the set.

This is the exact correct answer, good job Andrew.

So is the thought here then that if you're running HDMI and want 5.1 you would probably be going from the source (DVD player, let's say) to an HDMI switching A/V receiver and from there to the TV?

TimT

Originally posted by TheMostToyzWins
This is the exact correct answer, good job Andrew.

A followup to my post of a few days ago regarding the Memory Stick input: To view JPEG photos they must be encoded as RGB rather than grayscale, even if they are black and white pics. Figured this out after much head-scratching.

Originally posted by RMP in KY
Maybe this isn't the best thread for this but has anyone used the Memory stick input? I recently scanned a bunch of old family photos, loaded them onto a MS, and WOW! What a show!

Just started. Its a nice feature and better than looking over each others shoulders at PC screen. I'm impressed that it has "Powerpoint" type capabilities (albeit limited), with slide show and small list of transitions.

I like the zoom feature best, and love the integrity of display quality as you pan in. I have some group photos (large family) that really make this fun to mess with.

So is the thought here then that if you're running HDMI and want 5.1 you would probably be going from the source (DVD player, let's say) to an HDMI switching A/V receiver and from there to the TV?

I would suggest going from the source via Optical cable directly to your receiver for sound and run the HDMI from the source directly to the TV. You really dont need to run the HDMI cable to the receiver and of course you would need a receiver that was HDMI capable.

If you have an HDMI capable receiver you would get DD 5.1 from the source that way, but would be adding another component between the source and TV which could degrade the final PQ.

Originally posted by Mtnmike
I would suggest going from the source via Optical cable directly to your receiver for sound and run the HDMI from the source directly to the TV. You really dont need to run the HDMI cable to the receiver and of course you would need a receiver that was HDMI capable.

If you have an HDMI capable receiver you would get DD 5.1 from the source that way, but would be adding another component between the source and TV which could degrade the final PQ.

Been too busy to keep up on this thread, but another good post.

The purists among us (I'm one) would keep the paths separate (video directly to display and audio direct to amp / processor.) But there are others (just as correct for their needs) that would prefer a one cable solution. Where there is one cable (HDMI) run between all components.

It is true that the more links in the chain there is more potential for quality loss. This is particularly true when dealing with analog signals. But in the digital domain this is less of a concern. That is the reason for all the Digital Rights Management (DRM) work going on, but that is another topic.

Hey folks,

Hope nobody minds and this is alright to do. I *did* post this in a separate thread here, but since I haven't gotten any responses there, thought I'd post here too since it's the GWIV thread.

Just received my Sony KDF-50WE655. Very pleased overall, but have some concerns, so I'm looking for some tips/help. =o)

TV looks great (just tested DVD's so far), but one problem I noticed is that at my viewing distance (10 feet), I can see quite a few artifacts. These are most prevalent with "lines" at an angle, curves, etc. You can see "jaggies" and such, and it just doesn't look "smooth". Like bad antialiasing in a video game. Text also displays this a little bit. The further away you are, the less apparent this is. From 15 feet or so, it looks perfect. (I'm beginning to wonder if I went too big, but I'm hoping it just needs some tweaking).

Any tips on getting this smoother? I know HDTV's show more detail because they're large and fine, but I didn't really expect this. Movies look okay, but not great, from my primary viewing distance. From the other room, they look phenomenal though.

I'm not where the TV is unfortunately (still not living there, but getting close), so I did a little research to work on this. Some ideas I have:

1. Use Standard or Pro modes, NOT vivid. I was planning to use Standard, so probably will stick with that unless I hear otherwise. Though I saw this on Standard, so that alone doesn't do it.

2. Turn on Mild Mode. I guess this helps smooth things out? Seemed to look a bit smoother with it on. Not sure what exactly it does. I *HATE* how vague Sony's manual is about features like this.

3. Turn down Sharpness. This one I haven't tried yet. I'm not sure what the default is, but does this help? I've read some people have it down to zero.

Any other things I can try, or is it something I'll just have to get used to (I certainly hope I can)? I hope this wasn't a mistake and I won't regret not getting the 42" instead (a bit late now), but I'm really hoping I'll get used to it or it's tweakable.

Thanks,
Shaun

How are you connecting your DVD player to the TV? You should be using "component" (three cables.) Also, what DVD player are you using?

The sharpness is set ridiculously high on these TV'sout of the box, I turned my dad's all the way down and the artifacts disappeared. I put bright & picture around 35 each and color was 35-45. I don't remember what else I did, but those adjustments made a huge difference on a crappy DVD player using RCA cables...lol

The PQ problems you are seeing are mostly due to the source of the signal being displayed or cabling and not your Sony TV. DerekUGA is correct about the settings out of the box. Additionally if you can't improve the source then the best you can do is adjust settings to try and improve the signal being displayed.

Yeah the TV was extremely pixelated when we hooked it up, and I thought it looked terrible. Then I fixed the settings & watched some HD on it & was blown away. That TV is worth every penny.

Dead Pixels

I found this on page 8 of the 60wf655 manual. Seems like a warranty disclaimer to me.

"Although the LCD projection TV is made with high-precision technology, black dots may appear or bright points of light (red, blue or green) may appear constantly on the screen. This is the structural property of the LCD panel and not a defect."

I'm quite interested in this unit, but this seems a bit strange to me.

Count

Found the problem! The image distortion that was bothering me was because I was using the DVD player to stretch the image to fit properly on the screen (called "screen fit" mode...if a DVD doesn't display correctly natively or with any of the built-in options, you can change it manually using the remote to be the proper size). Oddly enough, that creates a TON of artifacts, especially on lines, curves, and things like that. When instead I set the image to 100% (which normally didn't display right) but use ZOOM on the TV instead, it fits the screen properly and looks 150% better. THAT'S the way it's supposed to look.

I'm using a Toshiba VCR/DVD Combo unit (SV-592 I believe) with HDMI out. However, I'm having issues with the HDMI (a low buzz/some popping on the VCR input), so I actually switched to composites. (And to me, I think it looks just as good). Because of this and a few other issues, I'm thinking of trying another unit instead.

But anyways, the picture looks MUCH better now. Very pleased! Thanks for the feedback!

Yeah I'm sure there are DVD players that get along with this TV much better than the one you & my dad are using. Anyone care to share which DVD player is really nice with this TV? I'm sure one of those HDVD players would look terrific on the Sony.

I am using the Zenith 318DB through component (it also has DVI out) with upconvert set at 720P and DVDs look flawless on my 50WE655. I got the DVD player from $169 at Gochnauer's Home Appliance Center through the Net [mailto:gochnauer.appliance@verizon.net]

So that's an HDVD player then? Sounds nice, I might have to tell my dad about it. Thanks.

OK I have a question. I looked for this in the Manual and searched this thread but cant seem to find it. What is the resolution for the Sony KDF-50WE655? I mean the XXXXxXXX resoltion and not the HDTV formats.

It's in the thread. Do a search for 788p or something like that. I remember people saying this TV is actually a 788p or something like that, then giving the resolution.

Originally posted by countd4
Dead Pixels

I found this on page 8 of the 60wf655 manual. Seems like a warranty disclaimer to me.

"Although the LCD projection TV is made with high-precision technology, black dots may appear or bright points of light (red, blue or green) may appear constantly on the screen. This is the structural property of the LCD panel and not a defect."

I'm quite interested in this unit, but this seems a bit strange to me.

Count
That is a drawback with LCD screens, it is completely normal and any LCD screen has the possibility of having dead/stuck pixels.

Originally posted by DerekUGA
Yeah I'm sure there are DVD players that get along with this TV much better than the one you & my dad are using. Anyone care to share which DVD player is really nice with this TV? I'm sure one of those HDVD players would look terrific on the Sony.

I would have to suggest the Panasonic DVD-S97S. Check out the firmware/braindump posts in the DVD Players subforum:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=463025
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=501352

Yeah, I'm considering some different upconverting DVD players now to try. I'm trying to find out which will work best with this TV. (I have a family member interested in the Toshiba, which I think would work well for her.)

A lot of people seem to like the Panasonic S97S - keep hearing good things, especially with the latest firmware (which is user-flashable if you have a CD burner btw). HDMI upconverting enabled, and I guess a wonderful player all around. Few issues (macroblocking), but those appear to be better with the firmware, and it doesn't sound like I'd take too much issue with it anyways.

I had really wanted to get the Sony DVP-NS975V since I figured a Sony DVD player would go great with a Sony TV set, but unfortunately, these seem to have severe problems with locking up and needing to be sent in for repairs (complete with the disc that won't come out). Apparently there is a repair out there that works (new firmware and possibly new components?), but Sony has to do it, and I guess new players are still subject to this as far as I know. Too big a risk I guess, which is a shame. I believe this has been a known problem for a while, and some retailers have even stopped carrying them.

Though I don't know the brands well, I know Zenith and Samsung also make some players. Interesting to hear above that Zenith does a nice job.

Fiz, do you have the Panny S97S with a Sony LCD RP? I've been looking for someone with this combo to attest it works well, especially over HDMI. Thanks. =o) Leaning that way myself.

Originally posted by sgupta
Fiz, do you have the Panny S97S with a Sony LCD RP? I've been looking for someone with this combo to attest it works well, especially over HDMI. Thanks. =o) Leaning that way myself.
I do :) . I have a Sony 60XS955 with the S97S (540 firmware) over HDMI 720p. I absolutely love it so far, but I have only had the DVD player for a little under a week. From what I have seen I couldn't be happier though. If there are any specific questions you have send me an e-mail at: devin.mikes@gmail.com for the quickest response - if you ask here I may not catch it for a while.

Thanks very much. I'll ask here (if you don't mind that is) so it'll benefit others who might be curious too. =o) I still have some time to research and decide.

Glad to hear you're happy. May I ask why 720p (instead of 1080)? Is it because that matches the resolution of your TV the closest?

I know I've read Sony's are around 788 res-wise. Some people seem to feel it should be left at 480 so the TV converts it since it will do a better job. Other people feel you should most closely match your resolution, as in your case (if I'm right in my reasoning) at 720. And others seem to feel highest res (1080) is best. So I'm confused. =oP

Beyond that, have you run into any issues or incompatibilites? Also, notice any "buzzing" or pops over the HDMI input (not as much when playing a DVD, but when using the player input/DVD player menus)? With the Toshiba I tried, I get a slightly irksome (but not overly loud) buzzing, so I'm wondering if that's normal.

Thanks much for your answers. Glad to hear it compliments the GWIV's well. =o)

Originally posted by sgupta
Thanks very much. I'll ask here (if you don't mind that is) so it'll benefit others who might be curious too. =o) I still have some time to research and decide.

Glad to hear you're happy. May I ask why 720p (instead of 1080)? Is it because that matches the resolution of your TV the closest?

I know I've read Sony's are around 788 res-wise. Some people seem to feel it should be left at 480 so the TV converts it since it will do a better job. Other people feel you should most closely match your resolution, as in your case (if I'm right in my reasoning) at 720. And others seem to feel highest res (1080) is best. So I'm confused. =oP

Beyond that, have you run into any issues or incompatibilites? Also, notice any "buzzing" or pops over the HDMI input (not as much when playing a DVD, but when using the player input/DVD player menus)? With the Toshiba I tried, I get a slightly irksome (but not overly loud) buzzing, so I'm wondering if that's normal.

Thanks much for your answers. Glad to hear it compliments the GWIV's well. =o)
Yup, I set it on 720p because it is closest to the 788. I have done some testing by just pausing the dvd player on a scene in various movies and changing between 480/720/1080 and decided 720/1080 both looked incredibly better than 480 and I couldn't tell the difference between the those two. I even took a tripod out with my 5.1GP Sony camera and took some pictures (720 and 1080), then went into Photoshop and switched between the images and still couldn't see a difference.

About the buzzing - I do not notice any. It may just not be audible over the fan in my TV, but I will let you know if I hear any.

Anyone get any buzzing over HDMI with the S97S?

Originally posted by DerekUGA
It's in the thread. Do a search for 788p or something like that. I remember people saying this TV is actually a 788p or something like that, then giving the resolution.

Yeah I finally found it thanks. I searched for my TV model number but didnt find the res. Its 1386 x 788. Im hooing my computer up to it and want to get it so that the entire desktop fits in the screen just right.

I am a cablevision subscriber using the SA8300HD DVR cable box. The box is connected to my Sony KDF42WE655 using an HDMI cable. On the box, there is a setup wizard which allows you to enable the following resolutions: 480i, 480i widescreen, 480p, 480p widescreen, 780p, and 1080i. Enabling these resolutions simply means that the cable box will pass the signal to the tv as it is broadcasted (e.g. SD 480i will be passed as 480i, ESPN HD 720p will be passed as 720p, HBO 1080i will be passed as 1080i, etc.)... If I ONLY enable 1080i during the setup wizard, then the box will upconvert ANY broadcast signal (regardless of what it is) to 1080i and then pass that 1080i signal to the tv... So here's my question:

Am I better off passing the original broadcast signal to the tv (could be 480i, 720p, or 1080i) or an upconverted signal to the tv (1080i)?

I hope this post makes sense...

I've also heard the 788P native res is a typo and it is actually 768P.

Well I waited to the last day, but finally pulled the trigger and exchanged my 50WE655 for the 55WF655 at my local CircuitCity. I also picked up the Sony stand for the 42/50" LCD and the 55" fits perfectly! (wasn't about to pay $700 for the bigger Sony stand). I'm totally pleased with my purchase...... hooked up with my spankin new TWC SA8300HD over HDMI AND using Dolby Digital 5.1 with zero probs.... it's sweet when everything just falls into place and works(it so rarely does).

Originally posted by Fiz
Yup, I set it on 720p because it is closest to the 788. I have done some testing by just pausing the dvd player on a scene in various movies and changing between 480/720/1080 and decided 720/1080 both looked incredibly better than 480 and I couldn't tell the difference between the those two. I even took a tripod out with my 5.1GP Sony camera and took some pictures (720 and 1080), then went into Photoshop and switched between the images and still couldn't see a difference.

About the buzzing - I do not notice any. It may just not be audible over the fan in my TV, but I will let you know if I hear any.

Anyone get any buzzing over HDMI with the S97S?

I have the Sony KDF50we655 and when hooking up my DishNetwork HD recevier to my tv using HDMI I get this slightly high pitched, staticy, pulsating buzzing noise over the built-in speakers. I use a DVI to HDMI cable as the box uses DVI out. So I guess its a YMMV type of thing.

sguptawrote:

" I've read Sony's are around 788 res-wise. Some people seem to feel it should be left at 480 so the TV converts it since it will do a better job. Other people feel you should most closely match your resolution, as in your case (if I'm right in my reasoning) at 720. And others seem to feel highest res (1080) is best. So I'm confused." =oP

No need to be confused. Use whatever looks best to you. It's your TV and your eyes. What looks or feels good to someone else may not work for you. Heck there are people in this forum that adjust all the controls ETC to what others have done (because thats what's best RIGHT?) Wrong. What's best is what's best for you. Experiment and enjoy your new set. You'll find yourself much more satisfied than assuming certain controls MUST be set at certain levels. They put those adjustments on the TV for a reason. So the individual can adjust to what looks best to them.

BTW I have had the Sony 975V upconverting DVD player for going on four months and it has worked flawlessly. Great picture and sound. However, for other owners there have been problems with failures of the tray and locking. I haven't had them but they are a problem for some. The newest players have the latest 1.90 firmware and seems to be working.

Originally posted by Lantano
...hooked up with my spankin new TWC SA8300HD over HDMI AND using Dolby Digital 5.1 with zero probs.... it's sweet when everything just falls into place and works(it so rarely does).

I am so jealous! Where do you live that the HDMI->HDMI works? I have the 55XS955 w/same STB box via TWC. I'm waiting for a firmware upgrade that should enable it.

Originally posted by decalofashion
... So here's my question:

Am I better off passing the original broadcast signal to the tv (could be 480i, 720p, or 1080i) or an upconverted signal to the tv (1080i)?

I hope this post makes sense...
Whatever looks best to you is the right answer. I let the STB upconvert to 1080i (or 720P) and don't pass the 480, etc. as I don't like the spazzing of the TV when the switch occurs between HD and non-HD. Its tough to tell whether 720P or 1080i is best, IMO for my setup.

Originally posted by IamtheWolf
I am so jealous! Where do you live that the HDMI->HDMI works? I have the 55XS955 w/same STB box via TWC. I'm waiting for a firmware upgrade that should enable it.


I got the First 2 SA8300HD DVRs sent out for Beaumont, TX (90mi SE of Houston). This SA8300HD uses SARA software. I did see the 2.1 channel bug when I first connected the HDMI cable but was able to change the digital out setting on the SA8300 from HDMI to Dolby Digital using an optical cable to my Pioneer 811 HT reciever and the problem was solved!

BTW I actually used a DVI cable that came with my DVD player and purchased 2 DVI to HDMI adaptors for either end of the cable. This is the wierd part, the DVI cable did pass through digital audio from the SA8300! I thought using a DVI cable with the HDMI adaptors that the sound would not be transmitted... anyone want to venture a guess why a DVI cable with HDMI adaptors can carry the digital audio from an HDMI to HDMI connection?

Also how do you have the SA8300 setup to your GWIV? So far the best method seems to be using 1080i for all signals, to me the better picture offsets the black side bars on SD sources. I tried using 1080i for HD and 480P Standard with the DVI/HDMI Auto picture format setting on the SA8300HD but SD doesn't look as good (I also tired this using the different stretch modes on the 55WF655). Any tips?

You're right - I guess I'll just test the different modes and decide which looks best to ME personally.

Thanks for the feedback on the Sony 975V. If I could get a new unit with the revised firmware, I might try it, but since I can't seem to verify that anywhere (Crutchfield MIGHT check for me on Monday), I think it's too risky. Which is too bad, since it looks like a great DVD player problems aside.

Originally posted by Lantano
I got the First 2 SA8300HD DVRs sent out for Beaumont, TX (90mi SE of Houston). This SA8300HD uses SARA software. I did see the 2.1 channel bug when I first connected the HDMI cable but was able to change the digital out setting on the SA8300 from HDMI to Dolby Digital using an optical cable to my Pioneer 811 HT reciever and the problem was solved!


We have the PASSPORT software on our SA8300HD's so we can not enable this feature of switching the optical out to send 5.1 when the HD box is connected to the tv via HDMI. Correct me if I'm wrong? I too have the 2.1 bug on my KDF55XS955 and am waiting for a firmware fix to address this.

Originally posted by robshdtv
We have the PASSPORT software on our SA8300HD's so we can not enable this feature of switching the optical out to send 5.1 when the HD box is connected to the tv via HDMI. Correct me if I'm wrong? I too have the 2.1 bug on my KDF55XS955 and am waiting for a firmware fix to address this.


From what I've read on these forums you are correct that the SA8300 using the Passport software currently sets all the audio ouputs to 2.1 when using HDMI to HDMI connection. I guess I'm lucky on that front....

Can you tell me how you have your 8300HD video rez setup with your 55XS955? I've been farting around with so many combinations and still not satisfied with the SA8300HD SD channels on my 55WF655. In fact I'm keeping my DISH 508 DVR(no DVR monthly fees on this model) for now because SD material looks better using S-Video (4:3 set to auto wide zoom on the TV).

I have the SA8300HD box also. I use the component outputs and set the box for passthrough. The deinterlacer in the 8300 is not nearly as good as the Sony's. It has trouble with fast motion. I was watching Nemo and everytime a fish would move, I would see the scan lines. I didn't see any difference in the HDMI vs. component inputs either. I paused some HD video and directly compared the HDMI to the Component inputs. Studying the screen up close, the pixels looked identical. But I did notice that the sound quality from the TV's speakers was better when using the HDMI connection. The reason I choose the component over HDMI is because sometimes, the screen will get squirly when using the guide. I've also had the video freeze a few time.

Originally posted by BoogerBomb
Yeah I finally found it thanks. I searched for my TV model number but didnt find the res. Its 1386 x 788. Im hooing my computer up to it and want to get it so that the entire desktop fits in the screen just right.

Yes the GWIV native resolution is 788p but you will not be able to get that resolution to work because it is not evenly divisible by 8. Just try 1776x1000 with 1080i timings. That works best with zero overscan. Take a look at this thread if you want to see how to easily set it up with component cables and an ATI card.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=469093

Originally posted by mpgxsvcd
Yes the GWIV native resolution is 788p


Can someone settle this once and for all please?

I get a lot of people saying the native resolution is 788p, then many others are saying that spec has been a misprint somewhere, and it's actually 768p.

Which is right, and where is this correction coming from? I need a place to point to that shows the GWIV's true resolution.

some comments on the SA8300....

I also have this box, and I have had many of the same issues as the rest of you. I am using the HDMI cable. I initialy had it set to HDMI pass, but it would sometimes freeze when changing resolutions, or loose audio. To fix this I set the box to lock on 1080i. This fixed all my freezing problems, but I do think the analog SD channels suffered a bit. I also am having the 5.1 bug.... I cannot output audio from the HDMI and the Digital Optical to my receiver at the same time AND get DD5.1. If I want DD5.1, I have to disable the HDMI audio... annoying for sure, but I can live with it I guess.

I also came up with an alternate solution for watching SD analog stuff. I just split the cable and bypassed the 8300 on the Coax input. This way I can watch all unscrambled stuff untouched by the box. SD looks better for sure, though I don't notice much if any difference in HD.... what's interesting is that I do think HD looks better OTA than through my cable company. Too bad I don't get a bit better reception from my roof-top antenna.

Thanks for the info on your SA8300 experiences....

What I was hoping to do is cancel Dish altogether and use the SA8300 for all my DVR recording needs. Problem is the SD reception is so poor on the analog channels 2-78 which includes the major networks (local CBS affiliate is HD but OTA only) that it looks like I will be forced to keep Dish for network DVR recording. The Dish DVR 508 really looks good on the 55WF655 (even better than my prev. 50WE655) going through S-Video with 4:3 set to Wide Zoom.

I've tried 480P on the SA8300 to try to approx. the Dish signal but it's not up to snuff. HD and Digital Channels are awesome on the SA8300 but in reality my DVR recording habits are mainly the networks which the Dish 508 excels at. Alternatively the Dish HD DVR solutions are expensive ($549) and not a lot of content compared to TWC....is a cost effective all-in-one solution too much to ask for???

I also have the SA8300 and a 60WF655. I've been experimenting and have eliminated 480i regular and widescreen and 480p widescreen. I also set the box to pass through. So far the results seem great for HD and SD digital. Some of the analog is lousy though.

I really wish Cablevision carried UPN and WB in HD. SCIFI is also analog. Enterprise, Smallville and Battlestar Galactica look lousy no matter what I do. Its a real shame since my family looks forward to these shows. 24 in HD is awesome though.

I haven't noticed much of a difference between the HDMI and Component hookups, so my solution to the DD5.1 issue is to use HDMI for regular TV viewing and Component when I fire up the Home Theater.

The one thing I haven't done is to split the cable and run raw Coax into the set. Anybody have any feedback on doing that? Is it worthwhile or will I just degrade the signal to the 8300?

Originally posted by garymil
The one thing I haven't done is to split the cable and run raw Coax into the set. Anybody have any feedback on doing that? Is it worthwhile or will I just degrade the signal to the 8300?

I did that with a TWC extended basic service before getting the SA8300. The signal is definitely better going through the Sony Tuner. You will have to use a Cable Card to get all your digital SD/HD scrambled channels though. I was able to tune in some unscrambled SD/HD digital content but it was difficult finding the channel ie., Discovery HD Theater is TWC Channel 745 but the raw feed to the Sony Tuner found it at 102.1

One unexpected result of that setup was the raw TWC VOD feeds were unscrambled to the Sony Tuner so basically anything someone ordered on TWC VOD in my area I was able to view. I could even see when someone paused, rewind or FF the program. Very wierd stuff....

Originally posted by DaverJ
Can someone settle this once and for all please?

I get a lot of people saying the native resolution is 788p, then many others are saying that spec has been a misprint somewhere, and it's actually 768p.

Which is right, and where is this correction coming from? I need a place to point to that shows the GWIV's true resolution.

I found it on the Sony website so I would assume that they know what the native resolution for their tvs is. I hope.

Originally posted by mpgxsvcd
Yes the GWIV native resolution is 788p but you will not be able to get that resolution to work because it is not evenly divisible by 8. Just try 1776x1000 with 1080i timings. That works best with zero overscan. Take a look at this thread if you want to see how to easily set it up with component cables and an ATI card.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=469093

Thanks for the heads up.

Man this thread is HUGE....I had one of the first 60 xs sets back in oct and posted some pics but haven't visited in a while (been enjoying the set so much). I have a denon 3805 receiver and was thinking about a new dvd player since I have an older toshiba sd4800 now. Seeing HD on the TV with comcasts dvr which records HD content is awesome but now my dvds don't looks so good by comparison. I know they never will but I could justify a new dvd player before the new format is ironed out and the new players are solid.
Denon players are an obvious choice. Although I tried the 1910 and was not at all impressed with quality improvement over either component or dvi-hdmi at either 720 or 1080. My current player is slightly softer but I think the colors were more accurate. I did not fiddle with the settings on the tv much though because it didn't seem worth it.
That means I am left with a 2910 or 3910 or possibly an older 2900 model. Since the prices went up on these the beginning of the yr the 3910 is more than I paid for the receiver which is really hard to justify. The 2910 is within reach though but if it is going to be like the 1910 in quality of video it won't be worth it.
The whole point for me would be to get a good player that will be my last one for this format. Then I will continue to use it for audio and this format of dvd so its versatility and good performance in many areas will make it worthwhile hopefully.
What would you guys recommend?

I've been very pleased with my Zenith DVB318 set to 720P hooked via component to my 55WF655. I got the DVD player last year for $169 off the net.

Originally posted by DaverJ
Can someone settle this once and for all please?

I get a lot of people saying the native resolution is 788p, then many others are saying that spec has been a misprint somewhere, and it's actually 768p.

Which is right, and where is this correction coming from? I need a place to point to that shows the GWIV's true resolution.

It might not really be important. I can't settle it once and for all, but 1356x768 is a common WXGA resolution. 1356x788 is not. If you google for 1356x768 you get 81 hits, mostly surrounding Sony and Philips displays and WXGA. If you google 1356x788, you get zero hits.

Also, 1080, 720, 480, and 768 all are divisible by 24. The lowest common multiple in 1080, 720, 480, and 788 is much lower (4). Using 768 in the scaler would make the math much easier than scaling to 788 for that reason. IOW, 768 can be scaled efficiently while 788 can't, so it makes sense to use 768.

Neither 1356x768 or 1356x788 are divisible exactly by 16:9, but 768 works out much closer. The Sonys overscan a bit more horizontally than vertically, very likely to make up for the small difference for true 16:9 framing.

The Sony website offers a number of different total pixel counts (per panel) and while none of them come to exactly the product of 768 times 1356 or 788 times 1356, 1356x768 works out the closest.

I tried several DVD players during the two weeks after I purchased the 50WE655 (in late January), including a couple of up-converting players, and ended up with the Harmon Kardon DVD-22 (no upconversion). The HK DVD-22 PQ is excellent. Most movies are amazingly clear (though not all). Concert videos are near HD quality. The only complaint I have is audio-sync issues with a couple of DVDs; and even that is just an isolated chapter within a movie. I still am not sure if the audio-sync issue is with the DVD player or my DTS receiver (DVD->receiver using digital coax).

Jeff

I have a 50XS and when viewing a 4:3 image, the bar when measured in the lower left had corner is shorter (~1/4 inch) than the upper left hand corner. It was fairly noticeable from the beginning, sort of like staring at a painting that isn't level. I brought out the measuring tape, and sure enough, my eyes weren't lying to me.

The right side is reasonably strait, with the top and bottom being equal, and only about a 1/16 difference when measuring from the middle. I wish the left side looked the same as the right side.

When watching a letterboxed movie, such as LOTR, a similar problem exists with the same corner of the TV.

Searching through the forums, I've seen the term 'geometry issues' mentioned. I guess this is what I'm seeing?

The excellent retailer I purchased the set from has already ordered me a replacement. I'm still debating whether or not to take it. I may end up with something worse off than I do now. I haven't noticed any dead pixels, the fan is reasonably quiet, etc. etc.

I am just wondering if this sort of problem should be considered "normal" for a Sony, and I may be better off with what I have now.

Originally posted by TxSooner

I am just wondering if this sort of problem should be considered "normal" for a Sony, and I may be better off with what I have now.

Tx,

The first 55WF I received had some problems, for a moment I considered what you are thinking, "Can I do worse". Well I decided that a new set should work right out of the box and if I had two bad sets in a row, I would look for something else.

Things did work out, the second set was fine. So, if I were you, I would go for the replacement. I take it that you have a 30 day return window, so it's take care of it now or learn to live with it....

I really think that manufacturers cut corners with quality control with the hope that most people won't notice the defects. I guess they don't read this forum:rolleyes:

Just received my 50" GWIV and the 1st thing I noticed was this light pattern on the screen. I showed it to the delivery men and they saw it also. Here's a picture I took. There is a large sliding glass door to the right so disregard the vertical shadows and the other shadow on the left. The area of concern is within the circle I drew. I can press lightly on the screen and the pattern distorts as if it were an actual LCD display, almost like it was filled with a gel.

Has anyone else experienced this?

Originally posted by SunPowered
Just received my 50" GWIV and the 1st thing I noticed was this light pattern on the screen. I showed it to the delivery men and they saw it also. Here's a picture I took. There is a large sliding glass door to the right so disregard the vertical shadows and the other shadow on the left. The area of concern is within the circle I drew. I can press lightly on the screen and the pattern distorts as if it were an actual LCD display, almost like it was filled with a gel.

Has anyone else experienced this?
That definitely does not look good. How does the picture look when the set is on?

Originally posted by TxSooner
... The right side is reasonably strait, with the top and bottom being equal, and only about a 1/16 difference when measuring from the middle. I wish the left side looked the same as the right side.

How does it look when you're stretched out horizontal on your couch? Can you place a pillow under your cheek so it looks level? (Only kidding).

Seriously, have you adjusted for overscan? Though I'm not sure if it will help. the HDNet test pattern looked slanted when I played it, but was straight after I changed overscan (to -1 I think).

E

I have a question... Now that Sony has introduced its new line of LCD RPTVs (A10 and A20), whats the price curve on the the existing line going to do? I'll be buying my system in 45-60 days, and I'm wondering how much the cost of say a 60WF is going to drop. Anyone who has been through these product launch cycles have anything to share?

The current models will not start to drastically decrease in price until the stores actually get these new sets into their systems. Once they see that their $2400 GWIV is $900 more than the equivalent GWV will be they will start dumping the GWIVs like crazy. Although, I wouldn’t expect them to reduce the price down $900 right away. I don’t know what the markup is on these sets but I wouldn’t think it would be to much more than $900 on a $2400 set. I doubt they would start taking a loss right away. Who would want to buy the older more expensive sets now when the new sets are just around the corner?

Originally posted by SunPowered Has anyone else experienced this?

My 55XS looked something like that. There was a spot in the top middle of the screen, not a glare. Also, when I got very close to the screen, I could see waves/ripples. CC replaced it with a new one since the first one with the problem was a day out of the box. The replacement is perfect. I would suggest just getting a new one if thats easy.

good luck

I've not read anything that states what prices will do on equivalent models ie 60" to 60"... I guess will just see what happens! While I would not buy a more expensive, older set, I would bet that the new sets will NOT be cheaper MSRP. What I would expect is larger discounts on the old models and short-term lesser discounts on the new ones. But my tea leaves are quite soggy ;)!

Just curious, did anyone see GWIII series sets going dirt cheap after the GWIV was introduced? I really think that inventory control is better than that. High inventories are a thing of the past...............

On another topic... Now that a "dynamic iris" is rumored to be available on the GWV and it will make the picture better than ever (gee, I may have heard that one before...) Should I get rid of my month old GWIV (cut my losses while I can) and wait and save for a GWV?

Originally posted by NoPlasmaYet
Just curious, did anyone see GWIII series sets going dirt cheap after the GWIV was introduced? I really think that inventory control is better than that. High inventories are a thing of the past...............

On another topic... Now that a "dynamic iris" is rumored to be available on the GWV and it will make the picture better than ever (gee, I may have heard that one before...) Should I get rid of my month old GWIV (cut my losses while I can) and wait and save for a GWV?

Unless it's something very revolutionary, I would not trade up for a dynamic iris. There are bound to be more changes as time goes on. You will be changing every few months at that rate. Myself, waiting for the "Extraordinary Pupil".... :)

Originally posted by videoaddikt
Unless it's something very revolutionary, I would not trade up for a dynamic iris. There are bound to be more changes as time goes on. You will be changing every few months at that rate. Myself, waiting for the "Extraordinary Pupil".... :)

Agreed. When are these due out? Sometime this summer? I'll be perfectly content with my 60XS955 for quite a while I'm sure. In a few years, I'm sure I'll be amazed at what is available.

That's the first I'd heard of that, but if that means that they will dynamically control the actual light inside the cabinet, it should make for significant improvements on night scenes, etc., by improving the absolute black level exactly when it becomes problematic. The GWIV on Power Saver mode with gamma pushed already performs pretty good in this area (compared to other RP, at least) but that would make the GWVs plasma-like. I'm curious to hear more.

They way the Sony press release is worded it appears the iris is only on the new 42" and 50" sets. It's not clear how the A20 series differs from the WF models although it was obviously significant enough to discontinue the WF after being on the market only 7-8 months. The A20 will have the same cabinet and is scheduled for spring release.

They way the Sony press release is worded it appears the iris is only on the new 42" and 50" sets. It's not clear how the A20 series differs from the WF models although it was obviously significant enough to discontinue the WF after being on the market only 7-8 months. The A20 will have the same cabinet and is scheduled for spring release.

Hi all i'm a new owner of the 42, possibly the starter of this thread could rename it to include model number and owners thread like ALL the other models have it? This was extremely tough to find, infact I found it by mistake.

Originally posted by S1L1C0N
Hi all i'm a new owner of the 42, possibly the starter of this thread could rename it to include model number and owners thread like ALL the other models have it? This was extremely tough to find, infact I found it by mistake.

Caveat emptor

Originally posted by IamtheWolf
Caveat emptor

I've read nothing but positive reviews on this unit, let me guess, you own a 55...

Originally posted by S1L1C0N
I've read nothing but positive reviews on this unit, let me guess, you own a 55...

:) I wasn't referring to the unit. From what I've read they're all awesome. I was referring to how we have to search for info (both pre and post sale). Thus my post.

Yes, I own a 55, but don't have any experience with the other makes or models, and have no comments. Nothing implied.

Originally posted by IamtheWolf
:) I wasn't referring to the unit. From what I've read they're all awesome. I was referring to how we have to search for info (both pre and post sale). Thus my post.

Yes, I own a 55, but don't have any experience with the other makes or models, and have no comments. Nothing implied.

NP right on, yes well since i'm new to this unit ive never heard it referred to as a "GWIV" also there is no official owners thread for the 42 like there is for the 50 or 55, in my first post here I guess I thought"GWIV" meant the 42" only, now I learned after reading more and more posts that it is the series ;) I only wondered about there being a dedicated one stop shop type thread on the KDF-42WE655. Just a miscommunication, my apologies.

e

Originally posted by S1L1C0N
NP right on, yes well since i'm new to this unit ive never heard it referred to as a "GWIV" also there is no official owners thread for the 42 like there is for the 50 or 55, in my first post here I guess I thought"GWIV" meant the 42" only, now I learned after reading more and more posts that it is the series ;) I only wondered about there being a dedicated one stop shop type thread on the KDF-42WE655. Just a miscommunication, my apologies.

e

So are you going to start you own thread? I just bought this tv too.

Originally posted by Dawgdaes
So are you going to start you own thread? I just bought this tv too.

Yessir

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=521764

Hey, check out my 60" PC monitor.

http://mysite.verizon.net/vzep5one/113-1325_IMG.JPG

dmbatch, how did u do that? man

I had an old PC with a Radeon 7500 card in it. I used the DVI out to the HDMI in on the TV.

That pic was taken before I downloaded all new drivers and control software for the 7500 so the screen size is a little off. I still can't get it exactly right but it's better and very usable. I got a bluetooth keyboard and mouse so I can sit back in my easy chair and surf the net.

Originally posted by dmbatch
Hey, check out my 60" PC monitor.



Sweet. Nice in-wall speakers too.

Hey, is that Austin Powers on the left? :D

I have a newest Sony vaio, top of line, would it work?

Originally posted by DaverJ
Sweet. Nice in-wall speakers too.

Hey, is that Austin Powers on the left? :D

Those are PSB M6x6.1 Custom in-wall series. I have 4 of those plus 2 M6.1S for the 7.1 rears.


and yes, that is Austin Powers - complete with talking stand that says "Oh behave" and a few other things when you push the button.

Originally posted by woodydog
They way the Sony press release is worded it appears the iris is only on the new 42" and 50" sets. It's not clear how the A20 series differs from the WF models although it was obviously significant enough to discontinue the WF after being on the market only 7-8 months. The A20 will have the same cabinet and is scheduled for spring release.

It is strange on how the press release is worded. The dynamic iris is a new feature so why wouldn't they offer it on the A20 series which is a step up from the A10? Does anyone have any information on whether the A20's will feature the dynamic iris?

`

Did Sony drop the 50XS955? Sonystyle.com now only lists the 55 and the 60. (Or maybe there never was a 50)

Originally posted by TomCat
Did Sony drop the 50XS955? Sonystyle.com now only lists the 55 and the 60. (Or maybe there never was a 50)

I don't believe there ever was a 50" LCD RPTV with those numbers. There is a 50XS955 plasma TV. The full model number is KDE-50XS955.

Hmm. OK. I guess could have missed that since the first thing my research revealed is that I would be considering 60" LCDRP's only.

On the other hand, I have a friend who is thinking about a 55XS, but we can't seem to find a decent price. What do you guys think would be considered a low price for a 55XS? (I'm trying to wean him away from a 50" Samsung)

Originally posted by TomCat
Hmm. OK. I guess could have missed that since the first thing my research revealed is that I would be considering 60" LCDRP's only.

On the other hand, I have a friend who is thinking about a 55XS, but we can't seem to find a decent price. What do you guys think would be considered a low price for a 55XS? (I'm trying to wean him away from a 50" Samsung)

How about saving 300-400 bucks and fit him with 55WF? CC is down to $2969 ..get him the same basic display with a couple less features..save him money to help win him over.. I am overjoyed with mine... :)

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Sony-55-HDTV-KDF-55WF655-/sem/rpsm/oid/108784/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do

Just recently hooked up my new pioneer 59-avi to the sony kdf-50we655.
After trying out the component and hdmi outputs, it seems to me that 720p over hdmi gives me about the best PQ. Interestingly, the 480p on hdmi and component looks way too fuzzy to me though 480i on component is also quite good.
I have my picture mode set to pro and have calibrated picture and brightness settings with dve.
Just wondering if any other sony owners are using this dvd player and have found any particular settings to help improve image and sound quality.
Thanks in advance for any tips.

Originally posted by videoaddikt
How about saving 300-400 bucks and fit him with 55WF?...

Sorry...the extra tweaks of the XS sets it way, way ahead of the pack. Gamma correction alone makes a XS twice as watchable as anything else. And that is exactly why he's considering a Sony in the first place.

Originally posted by TomCat
Sorry...the extra tweaks of the XS sets it way, way ahead of the pack. Gamma correction alone makes a XS twice as watchable as anything else. And that is exactly why he's considering a Sony in the first place.



Interesting, I played with both models for 30 min at the dealer. In that particular case the WF actually looked better. I know that has a lot to do with set's internal settings OOTB plus, I could have used another 30 min.
But I agree, if he does not plan to tweak internally, he will need as much flexibility he can get.

Folks have traded in DLP sets for WE models, as far as Sony being the one to beat....

Originally posted by TomCat
Sorry...the extra tweaks of the XS sets it way, way ahead of the pack. Gamma correction alone makes a XS twice as watchable as anything else. And that is exactly why he's considering a Sony in the first place.

I think we have all been here before. 55WF & 55XS: same set, different cabinet and the XS has a few tweaks.....

No the XS is not way, way ahead of the pack.......but if the (extra) tweaks make you happy, by all means, go for it.

as for the Target link :

Pros : B&M, reasonable return policy, a company generally known for good customer service

Cons : You'll have to pay freight + tax.

So do the math to see where the better deal is.

Interesting that the XS and WF 60's are the same price - the WF at MSRP and the XS disocunted to the same...

Wow, this thread is long! I just purchased a 55" WF655 from Circuit City. To be honest I had my heart set on the XS955 but a couple things happened. First, a BB employee told me that the bulb in the 955 was brighter compared to the 655. After some researching, I do not believe that is the case. Second, my wife saw a stand that she loved. Of course with my luck it would be $900, but to my satisfaction it was $249 at Circuit City (and 10% off that). It was the exact width of the 55WF655. Third, I stopped by CC and someone had JUST returned the WF655 because they wanted the 60". They are selling new 55WF655's for $2,950 right now so they gave me this one for $2,520 and I couldn't pass it up. Figured with the 30 day return I had nothing to lose.

Well, got her hooked up last night and wow, am I happy. They look so much better away from all the other sets!

My question is, is there a WF thread, or is this beast of a thread where to post? I know very little about tuning these guys. I have a friend who has the Avia calibration and he is going to do that for me. But outside of Avia, is there a better way? Maybe just some standard pre-sets? Sorry for the dumb question, but I'm kinda clueless when it comes to calibration. I only know that I need to do it soon because those REDS are RED!!

Also, I do wish I had the second HDMI jack. That was kind of a bummer. Is there a way to hook up my HD box with HDMI and hook my HD-DVD into something else that will give me the same quality? I have RGB cables so the pic is still good (tested some movies last night) but I watch a LOT of DVD's so I'd like the best pic possible.

Oh BTW, an added benefit to my $225 stand, the dark cherry matches my PSB cherry EXACTLY! It looks awesome!

Well, this was my first post. Sorry it was so long! Any advice before I spend 3 hours surfing the site would be great, thanks!!!!

Flig

Originally posted by NoPlasmaYet
I think we have all been here before. 55WF & 55XS: same set, different cabinet and the XS has a few tweaks.....

No the XS is not way, way ahead of the pack.......but if the (extra) tweaks make you happy, by all means, go for it.

Exactly, if it takes one or two extra tweaks to convince someone to buy a Sony they must be sitting on the hairy edge of indecision.
My initial interest in the GW's came after viewing a 50WE in CC. Even though the WF and XS represent further refinement, the difference in SD and overall HD quality over what I had been viewing in other sets, was the selling point for me.
That's not to say 'a Sony' is for everybody.

Also having a hard time deciding on a warrantee! CC offered me a 4 year for $399. It seems like it might be worth it - will the bulb definitely go out in that 4 year period? Can I replace the bulb even if it doesn't go out - but is old?

I am in another hobby - reeftanks - where lighting is key. We change out $100/bulbs all the time before they burn out due to a spectral shift. Is that the case with LCD's?

Originally posted by Flig
Also having a hard time deciding on a warrantee! CC offered me a 4 year for $399. It seems like it might be worth it - will the bulb definitely go out in that 4 year period? Can I replace the bulb even if it doesn't go out - but is old?

I am in another hobby - reeftanks - where lighting is key. We change out $100/bulbs all the time before they burn out due to a spectral shift. Is that the case with LCD's?

I got a 4 year warranty from my dealer for 400 also. It does cover the bulb, anytime. (Although Sony gives you the first one free I believe, if it goes out in a year).

It can also be cancelled anytime, with the refund pro-rated.

Now, one fine difference is some warranties start after the mfr. warranty goes out. Mine starts at the same time, however, it will cover anything the Sony warranty does not. Not sure what that would be, but it is something anyway.

And all service is performed by Sony authorized centers.

I don't like putting out another $400, but the bulbs alone are around 200, so I think it's worth it with all the other coverage it offers.

And yes, I am sure AT LEAST one bulb will go out during that time, unless you only watch TV about 2-3 hours a day, at most. Even then, not sure I would vote in favor of the bulb.

Apparently, there is some shift with a new bulb, and also as a bulb decays. I believe both are very close to the ends of the life cycle of the bulb.

I talked to sony customer service, and they informed me that you can buy a sony warranty any time during the initial one year warranty that comes with the set. for my tv, a 60xs, three years is like 150 bucks. you may want to send sonystyle customer service an email and ask them before hand, but I would go the sony route on buying a warranty.

Originally posted by tke522
I talked to sony customer service, and they informed me that you can buy a sony warranty any time during the initial one year warranty that comes with the set. for my tv, a 60xs, three years is like 150 bucks. you may want to send sonystyle customer service an email and ask them before hand, but I would go the sony route on buying a warranty.

Thanks. $50/year sounds good. This probably doesn't cover a bulb though, huh? How much are the bulbs and can you get them cheaper other than thru Sony? Will the price on bulbs come down?

I think I'd rather deal with Sony than CC.

Originally posted by Flig
Thanks. $50/year sounds good. This probably doesn't cover a bulb though, huh? How much are the bulbs and can you get them cheaper other than thru Sony? Will the price on bulbs come down?

I think I'd rather deal with Sony than CC.

I think the Sony Warranty is a lot of bang for the buck. I don't believe it covers the bulb after the first year, except for the standard 90 days on a replacement.
The warranty is also refundable.

At about $200 a whack, the Sonys are about the cheapest lamps of all displays.
I have seen them as low as $189, (internet) that's about it. No doubt some dealers will come down more as they get in greater supply. I would not get too worried about the lamps. Nothing you need to stock up on in your closet. :)

BTW, you got an excellent price from a B&M without having any concerns over internet sales.

I have a 55"WF and am very happy with it, except for one thing. In my SD from a Dish 501 s-video hookup I sometimes get artifacts when someone moves quickly, like turning their head. It almost appears like a small black portion of a screen for just a split second on the person's neck (in that example). My son (8 yrs old) called it "stripes", but I see it more as a black criss-cross like a screen. I don't think this is SDE because I saw that in the store before I bought it while looking at a stand and being about 1' away. Is this what is referred to as a "macro block" or something like that? Can I tweak around it or is it a defect? I haven't tried dropping down to the RCA cables yet, but I understand from some posts that the TV sometimes does a better job with them than the s-video.

I highly suggest you use component (green/blue/red; aka Y-Pb-Pr) cables from your dish into your TV. If your particular dish doesn't have component outputs I advise you to get one.

S-video and composite are quite inferior to component in my opinion, in most cases. In the case of HDTV, S-video is not sufficient to display the best image.

Originally posted by NoPlasmaYet
I think we have all been here before. 55WF & 55XS: same set, different cabinet and the XS has a few tweaks.....

No the XS is not way, way ahead of the pack.......but if the (extra) tweaks make you happy, by all means, go for it.

I was responding to a direct question, which is an invitation for an opinion. You are welcome to yours, also, even if it differs, and even if you weren't asked.

Originally posted by Flig
...BB employee told me that the bulb in the 955 was brighter compared to the 655. After some researching, I do not believe that is the case

...I only know that I need to do it soon because those REDS are RED!!

Also, I do wish I had the second HDMI jack. That was kind of a bummer. Is there a way to hook up my HD box with HDMI and hook my HD-DVD into something else that will give me the same quality? I have RGB cables so the pic is still good (tested some movies last night) but I watch a LOT of DVD's so I'd like the best pic possible...

The news is good, for the most part. Even if you had an XS with a 132w bulb compared to some earlier models which have a 100w bulb, the XS looks best (and still has tons of brightness headroom) with the bulb throttled back to 100w (Power Saver mode). That makes models with 100w bulbs almost identical in that regard.

One of the tweaks on the XS (Live Color) will offset red push to some extent.

Two HDMI ports may be over-rated. Component should provide virtually identical PQ in most cases.

Thanks. I found some "tweak" threads and some local Phoenix AV guys are going to help me out.

I did confirm that I have a 132w bulb so I guess I can push it if I want.

Thanks also for putting my mind to rest on the 2 HDMI ports. I really didn't like the "wings" on the XS and now that I have the WF in my house I'm pretty happy I didn't get the wings.

Originally posted by TomCat
Sorry...the extra tweaks of the XS sets it way, way ahead of the pack. Gamma correction alone makes a XS twice as watchable as anything else. And that is exactly why he's considering a Sony in the first place.
Gamma can be changed in the service menu on non-XS models.
Originally posted by Flig
...BB employee told me that the bulb in the 955 was brighter compared to the 655. After some researching, I do not believe that is the case
The WF also has the 132 watt bulb. This is not a beneficial feature unless you live in a glass house in Alaska where the sun shines 24 hours a day. What they really need are 50 watt bulbs so you can get good black levels.

Robert

Originally posted by RAFABAMAD
Gamma can be changed in the service menu on non-XS models.

Robert

That's true, Robert. Although, I can envision the adavantage having some control over gamma in the user's menu. It just offers you more flexibility to easily tweak some less than satisfactory program material.

There are probably other tweaks that would be handy in the user's menu also, but most folks would not know how to use them.

Originally posted by Squawks
I highly suggest you use component (green/blue/red; aka Y-Pb-Pr) cables from your dish into your TV. If your particular dish doesn't have component outputs I advise you to get one.

S-video and composite are quite inferior to component in my opinion, in most cases. In the case of HDTV, S-video is not sufficient to display the best image.

Thanks, Squawks. I do have a free component video input, but I don't have any problem with the HDTV (thru my rabbit ears).
I am thinking of changing to Direct TV to get a new DVR rather than staying with Dish since current customers don't get the free stuff.
I am also now experiencing the stripes my son mentioned on SD only. The weird thing is I think a lot of it has to do with "looking for it." For example, I was at a movie theater in FLA on Thurs last week and I saw the same "stripes" on some of the stuff on screen. It happens when there are quick shifts from one picture to another. Weird.
My main concern is whether it is the TV or not. My impression from this thread is that most of the problems are a result of the inputs and I hate the idea of having to return the set for a new one, because I basically love the set.

UVArplcd wrote: I have a 55"WF and am very happy with it, except for one thing. In my SD from a Dish 501 s-video hookup I sometimes get artifacts when someone moves quickly, like turning their head. It almost appears like a small black portion of a screen for just a split second on the person's neck (in that example). My son (8 yrs old) called it "stripes", but I see it more as a black criss-cross like a screen. I don't think this is SDE because I saw that in the store before I bought it while looking at a stand and being about 1' away. Is this what is referred to as a "macro block" or something like that? Can I tweak around it or is it a defect? I haven't tried dropping down to the RCA cables yet, but I understand from some posts that the TV sometimes does a better job with them than the s-video.

I think you will find this problem is not your 55" WF but the signal source. Probably no way to tweak around it.

I know this is going to make me sound like an idiot, but I'm having a hard time figuring out this HD tuner thing. For the time being I am going to keep my DTV-DVR box and only get HD over the air.

Basically I'm running my DirecTV into Input 1. I bought a Terk amplified antenna, HD compatible. The only way to hook this thing up is with the coax and I can put it into UHF/VHF or Cable. Do I hook it into the UHF/VHF coax input and then use my channels on the TV? I tried that and the picture is real grainy. Thru the static I can see that it looks pretty clear though - if that makes sense. Am I doing this right? In the CC - they would just switch to channel X.1 (5.1 or 7.1, etc). Should I be putting this antenna through my DTV box? Or go buy a different cable?

It seems like I should be hooking the antenna into something that says "HD", right?

Please LMK before the Arizona game starts!!!

Sincerely,

HDTV Challenged

If you are coming off of an OTA rooftop type antenna, then you should attach the coax cable from the antenna to the vhf/uhf input of the tv. Make sure that the tv is set to the antenna and not to the cable input. Go thru the setup menu on the tv using the remote to make sure. (In my excitement with my new tv, I hooked it up ok but overlooked which input the set was looking at. I was a little unhappy at first.)) You would then tell the tv to tune the OTA channels. It should find both analog and digital channels, assuming that the tv has an ATSC HD tuner. Not all do. My 50" Sony does. The digital channels have a decimal point in the number, e.g. 19.1. When all else fails, read the instructions. Your owners manual should lay it all out for you.
I don't have Direct or Dish. (I prefer the better PQ from a big dish.) That is the way my tv is hooked up to my antenna. Great HD stuff from 50 miles away.
Joe

I wonder if my antenna just isn't strong enough. I'm picking up the OTA channels through my antenna, like when I put 5 on for CBS I get the game but it's grainy. So it must be looking for the antenna. But then I put 5.1 and it searches and says No Signal.

The instruction manual actually has nothing about setting it up this way, at least that I can find. Kind of a bummer.

Maybe I just need an outdoor antenna. I was told this indoor Terk amplified one should work.

Just to be sure, you either GET HD reception or not, right? There's not really an inbetween?

Thanks.

Analog channels, the ones we are used to seeing, can go from zilch to great and all PQ's in between. Snowy or ghosty, well, you know. The digital channels are either there or they are not. Soon as it locks, good PQ. When the signal is strong enough, the tuner locks on. If it's marginal it will pixellate. The stronger the signal, the better the lock. You have Direct so you have experienced this digital stuff. Ever experience rain fade? You may be correct about the indoor antenna. Have any neighbors with OTA HD? You might check around for any local experiences.
Regarding the manual, on pages 32 and 33 of my owners manual, KDF-50WE655, the antenna and cable hookup is described. On page 32, "Press ANT to switch back and forth between the LCD projection TV's VHF/UHF and CABLE inputs". The "ANT" refers to the button on the remote. This manual also applies to the 42WE, 55WF, and 60WF models. There is also a note, "Do not use an indoor antenna,....". About the Terk, don't know, but I have heard good things.

When you start using an antenna to get OTA digital channels, you MUST have the Sony "search" for digital chanels or it will not show any of the digital - only the nasty old analog channels. It's on one of the standard menus, and can take a few minutes to search out the digital and HD channels in your area.

Originally posted by rmullin
When you start using an antenna to get OTA digital channels, you MUST have the Sony "search" for digital chanels or it will not show any of the digital - only the nasty old analog channels. It's on one of the standard menus, and can take a few minutes to search out the digital and HD channels in your area.

And if you want to be sure to find them all, do it during primetime. Preferably after 9pm.

I'm using a silver sensor and it works great. I dont know why sony would say do not use an indoor ant.

you have to press ANT on the remote otherwise you will be scanning your cable lineup for digital channels.

Remember with Digital if you got it ...works great...weak you may get it , or you won't....

Well I figured out it is just an antenna issue as I got to see the UNC/Villy game.

Now a related question - the game is over and the news is on. Obviously not HD because of the side bars. BUT, the picture with the antenna seems better than my SD on my DTV box. Is it just me? I really have to figure out a way to improve my SD pic, some things can be pretty poor.

Guys,

I just got a cable card for my 60XS. Couple of observations. First, the picture via the cable card is SUBSTANTIALLY better than through the motorola DVR for analog channels. Secondly, when tuning via the cable card input, i noticed all the channel id's (e.g. WABC) populated. However, there is no guide. Is this normal / function of the cable compnay possibly? I've had the cable card in for appx 3-4 weeks.

thx for any input .

Aceman

Originally posted by Flig
...the news is on. Obviously not HD because of the side bars. BUT, the picture with the antenna seems better than my SD on my DTV box. Is it just me? I really have to figure out a way to improve my SD pic, some things can be pretty poor.

Congratulations. You now have an SD standard (SD upconverted on the OTA DT channel) to compare to SD from DTV. Shockingly bad, isn't it? This points out exactly how overcompressed the DBS signals are. It's not you, its DBS.

The bad news is that since it's them, the only real improvement can come from them, and you and I are powerless to do much. It's hard to make good chicken salad from chicken sh*t. The good news is that if any set can be tweaked to make bad SD tolerable, it's the GWIV. Since most Sony models allow tweaking per input, that's also very helpful.

Originally posted by Aceman
... there is no guide. Is this normal / function of the cable compnay possibly?


Nope, it's a limitation of Cable-Card. CC is a one-way device, so it can't do things like guide data.

Quick question, folks. (Did a search and didn't come up with anything.)

When viewing unstretched 4:3 material on the GWIV, what color are the side bars?

Thanks!

Originally posted by bunder
Quick question, folks. (Did a search and didn't come up with anything.)

When viewing unstretched 4:3 material on the GWIV, what color are the side bars?

Thanks!
Black, unless you are watching a HD channel that makes other colors/images possible. For example you can choose gray instead on most HD channels.

Thank you! I think I'm finally ready to pull the trigger.

'Course, I've been saying that for about three years now.

Originally posted by bunder
Thank you! I think I'm finally ready to pull the trigger.

'Course, I've been saying that for about three years now.
;) I am sure you won't be dissapointed if you go through with it - I love mine.

Couple of quick questions.... I just bought the KDF-55WF655....

1) I bought a component cable for my PS2 and hooked it up to the TV, but got a "rolling" picture. The person I bought it from told me to change the resolution on the TV, where can I find that? Is it in the menu,etc?


2) My folks bought one of these too and they have standard cable(Time Warner) with HD coming in via an HDMI-to-HDMI cable. When I click DISPLAY on their TV(on HD channels) I see 1080i and 16:9 in the bottom part of the display.

However, I have E* and a DVI-to-HDMI cable, when I click display on an HD channel I see 480p and 4:3, and I know I'm watching HD, like on sports center. Does this mean I have something wrong in the TV or is the signal not coming in correctly(like I need to call E*) or does the DVI-to-HDMI cable not send that information?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

thanks.

it is not the tv that is rolling the picture. make sure you go into the ps2 settings to ensure that it is set for 16:9...I have a component cable for my ps2 on my 60xs and it is working fine

ok, i may look at the signal from the PS2 as well.... the cable guy just told me to change the TV resolution and I wasn't aware of how to do that.

I think i figured out the signal from my E* box, as you can set the output (480p/720i/p or 1080i) on the box, I guess the installer just left it at the 480p default....

I know the native for the 55 inch is 720p, does 1080i look much better or does 720p look better? anyone experimented?

Originally posted by sroberts04
ok, i may look at the signal from the PS2 as well.... the cable guy just told me to change the TV resolution and I wasn't aware of how to do that.

I think i figured out the signal from my E* box, as you can set the output (480p/720i/p or 1080i) on the box, I guess the installer just left it at the 480p default....

I know the native for the 55 inch is 720p, does 1080i look much better or does 720p look better? anyone experimented?

I have had my WF655 for about 3 months. I love the set. I get scads of compliments. As for SAT output settings, you have to experiment for the best HD setting. I think it is a combination of the SAT box and TV. For me, the 1080i setting gives me a sharper picture using DVI/HDMI out of the box. Good luck.

yeah, after looking at it, i get better picture with my sat box at 1080i using the dvi to hdmi cable!

Doh!

I have had my KDF42WE655 for a couple of months and I just encountered a new problem. There is a small circular bright spot... looks a bit like a reflection, but is definitly comming from inside the tv. It's actualy a refurbished unit... it came with a hole one corner, which I have since covered up.... I suspect quite a bit of dust got in there before I covered it though. So I was thinking perhaps there's just a piece of dust messing it up. The circle is about the size of a quarter and is only visable in dark scenes. Any thoughts?

an update on that last post......
I'm sure some will think I'm nuts, but I tried to test my piece of dust theory by using the hole in the corner to insert a duster I rigged up.... after dusting the surfaces that looked like they were involved I saw no difference.

It's one of those things that's small enough that you might not notice it for a few days, but now that I see it... it's bugging me. I have no warrenty or anything so I am stuck with this TV. Any idea how much something like this might cost to fix? I actualy think I might be able to just live with it, as it's really only visable at night in dark scenes. If there's any brighness at all or any motion, you can't see it. Unfortionatly it's pretty close to the center of the screen though.

mlodgek- Other's have mentioned a brighter area near the center of their screens. They've noticed it also when the TV has been off. From what I understand they initially thought that it could not have been a reflection because it didn't move as they shifted their viewing angle, but I think after a while they came to the conclusion that ambient light was reflecting off of internal components onto the back of the display screen leading to a stationary area of brightness.

I think someone posted pictures, but I'm not sure if it was in this thread.

I searched the thread and didn't find anyone who had actually used the memory stick for it's advertised use, so I decided to give it a shot.

I picked up a memory stick and reader. I dumped a bunch of digital pics and mp3s on it. Popped it in, and voila, a nice easy slideshow. It's great to see the pictures blown up to 55". The picture viewer and slideshow are basic, but have enough options for me and are real easy to use.

I was hoping for a little better functionality with the MP3s. They play as the background to your slideshow. You can select individual songs, all MP3s, or (I believe) folders. You cannot however skip songs, play them randomly, FF, REW, or anything like that. They just play through.

Still, I thought it was pretty cool. I'm not sure how often I use it, but it's there.

Does anyone have a GWIV hooked up to a Panasonic DVD-CP72? I'm having problems getting a progressive output from the DVD player. (The Sony says 480i for everything coming from the Panasonic.)

The player is connected via component cables through a Denon AVR-3803, but I've tried connecting it directly to the set. I've also got a Gamecube connected through the receiver, and the Sony reports 480p on that. I've gone through the setup menus on the player and set it to both "progressive" and "widescreen", but that hasn't had an effect. Can't really see anything else in the menus that might affect the output.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

OK.... never mind. Apparently on top of setting it up within the menus, you have to press the little button on the front of the player marked "Progressive".

Go figure.

Originally posted by bunder
OK.... never mind. Apparently on top of setting it up within the menus, you have to press the little button on the front of the player marked "Progressive".

Go figure.

Observe much difference? On my older Pioneer 578A the pic was worse in 480p, with my new Sony NS975V both 480i and 480p are virtually the same. But the blacks are better with the Sony than the Pioneer in all modes.

I haven't had a chance to really sit down and compare the two, but at first glance I didn't see much difference. I'll keep you posted if my opinion changes....

I know this has been discussed on here but I could not find out if there was a solution. I have a 55WF that I bought about 2 months ago but has a October 04 build date. Have not had any trouble with the set at all until just the other day when I had the display pop-up when viewing a DVD. Has anyone found out if this is a firm-ware update fix or is there any solution for the problem. Besides this, the tv been very impressive. Have only done User Menu adjustments but the picture is very good, even on analog. The HD is amazing.

My WF55 has a Jan 05 date, and it has happened once to me when viewing broadcast programming (bought the set about 5 weeks ago). It seems this subject came up before.

I've searched multiple threads looking for info on burn in on LCD RP. Can you guys confirm whether I need to worry about potential burn in from gaming on the KDF 42 we655?

Thanks,

Eric

Don't worry about burn in. I won't happen with an LCD RP. It only happens with RP CRT or plasma based TV.

Chris

Has anybody ever experienced this problem? My 60WF will not power up.

When I turn it on, the fan kicks on and the POWER/STANDBY light blinks green for about 2-3 minutes, then the fan shuts down and the POWER/STANDBY light begins blinking red.

I can't imagine the bulb is dead because I've only had it since early January, and I've never had any problems at all until this morning!

Does anybody have any ideas???

Thanks,

Jimmy

I have had the same thing happen when I inadvertantly pushed the power button twice. Usually happens when I press the button on the TV itself. The TV turns on and off rapidly. Doesn't happen with the remote.

Originally posted by lynns_rich
I know this has been discussed on here but I could not find out if there was a solution. I have a 55WF that I bought about 2 months ago but has a October 04 build date. Have not had any trouble with the set at all until just the other day when I had the display pop-up when viewing a DVD. Has anyone found out if this is a firm-ware update fix or is there any solution for the problem. Besides this, the tv been very impressive. Have only done User Menu adjustments but the picture is very good, even on analog. The HD is amazing.

Same here. Someone awhile ago was trying to get a firmware update from Sony, but I'm not sure if it ever happend.

My 60WF655 is set to arrive in an hour or two and I'm still trying to figure out what the OTA HD is all about. I have DirecTV and from what I understand they don't broadcast local HD channels like cable does here in Ft. Lauderdale, FL. OK, so if I want to get the CBS broadcast of the championship game tonight in HD I have to go and get an antenna. To me this seems like it's a step back in time playing with antennas, but oh well, I got this TV to watch HD so that's what I'm going to do. Do the indoor antennas work? Radio Shack has a couple models for around $50 that I'm thinking about picking up, can anyone comment on these? Also, does anybody know when DirecTV will broadcast local channels in HD?

Regards,
4088

My recommendation: If you can't pull in local HD with a Silver Sensor (available at Sears for <$40) indoor antenna, return it, get a refund and get an outdoor antenna.
Digital cable SHOULD have local HDs available.
Satellite, esp Dish, does not yet. Both cable and satellite have a half-dozen or so special HD channels. (HDNet, DiscoveryHD, TNTHD, ESPNHD, INDHD, etc.)

Originally posted by jimmyv99
Has anybody ever experienced this problem? My 60WF will not power up.

When I turn it on, the fan kicks on and the POWER/STANDBY light blinks green for about 2-3 minutes, then the fan shuts down and the POWER/STANDBY light begins blinking red.

I can't imagine the bulb is dead because I've only had it since early January, and I've never had any problems at all until this morning!

Does anybody have any ideas???


Just a quick update...

Sears sent someone to my house today to check it out, and he tried replacing the bulb, but it still didn't work, so he assumed it was the ballast. He's putting a ballast on order and is scheduled to come back and install it on Friday between 8 and 12. Which sucks because the basketball game is on tonite, but as long as it gets fixed correctly, I won't complain too much. The guy they sent seemed very knowledgeable and, in fact, owns a 55XS himself, so I feel pretty comfortable with him.

I'll update again when the work is done.

Originally posted by videoaddikt
My recommendation: If you can't pull in local HD with a Silver Sensor (available at Sears for <$40) indoor antenna, return it, get a refund and get an outdoor antenna.
Digital cable SHOULD have local HDs available.
Satellite, esp Dish, does not yet. Both cable and satellite have a half-dozen or so special HD channels. (HDNet, DiscoveryHD, TNTHD, ESPNHD, INDHD, etc.)

The Silver Sensor seems to be a popular choice here. I'll stop by Sears tonight and check it out, but it appears it's only a UHF receiver, shouldn't I get an antenna that can pull down VHF as well? I need one for the game tonight and don't have much time to install a roof antenna after work, so I may just try the Terk or whatever indoor they recommend at RadioShack and hope I can tune in CBS tonight. Thanks for your help.

4088

where is the "optical unit" and how do I go about removing it?
can anyone help me with that question....

lynns_rich- I've had the same thing occur on a few dvds, but only once during cable broadcasts. It has been talked about, I think in a different thread, but I don't think anyone's been able to get a fix.

jimmyv99- I had the same problem. It occured the day after my father in law accidentally left it on all night. I was not pleased. I left it off and later in the day it started fine. It hasn't done it since (knocking on wood).

Originally posted by 95se
lynns_rich- I've had the same thing occur on a few dvds, but only once during cable broadcasts. It has been talked about, I think in a different thread, but I don't think anyone's been able to get a fix.

jimmyv99- I had the same problem. It occured the day after my father in law accidentally left it on all night. I was not pleased. I left it off and later in the day it started fine. It hasn't done it since (knocking on wood).

It will happen again. . . Mine (55WF655) does it on random intervals. I bought mine about 45 days ago and so far the Vid Label has appeared 6 times total on "All" inputs. . . It is so infrequent that I do not worry about it lest it drive me crazy. . . Doesnt seem to make any difference how long the set has played as sometimes it will do it about an hour after I turn it on and then it might play 8 hours straight and not do it at all. . .I thought (and still do) that it might be related to power fluctuations in the AC power to the set. I use a "Monster" power center and I have plugged it into a seperate circuit by it's self. . .No difference. I have noticed that I start getting audio drop-outs around the same time this happens? ? ? ?

I would expect a fix at some point. . .

Originally posted by jimmyv99
Just a quick update...

Sears sent someone to my house today to check it out, and he tried replacing the bulb, but it still didn't work, so he assumed it was the ballast. He's putting a ballast on order and is scheduled to come back and install it on Friday between 8 and 12. Which sucks because the basketball game is on tonite, but as long as it gets fixed correctly, I won't complain too much. The guy they sent seemed very knowledgeable and, in fact, owns a 55XS himself, so I feel pretty comfortable with him.

I'll update again when the work is done.

You are lucky. When I called Sears to send out somebody to look at my 161-5 cablecard errors the guy was a total dufus. He had never seen an HDTV of any kind as far as I could tell, tied up my phone for 1 1/2 hours trying to get help and reset all my video controls to vivid and reset my sound - and of course did nothing to fix my problem. Meanwhile I lost a day away from work.

It was my worst repair experience ever.

Originally posted by ehlarson
You are lucky. When I called Sears to send out somebody to look at my 161-5 cablecard errors the guy was a total dufus. He had never seen an HDTV of any kind as far as I could tell, tied up my phone for 1 1/2 hours trying to get help and reset all my video controls to vivid and reset my sound - and of course did nothing to fix my problem. Meanwhile I lost a day away from work.

It was my worst repair experience ever.

I know that feeling. . . I bought a big Mits several years ago from a top notch AV retailer one that was supposed to be the best (Dallas TX) I wanted service which was the main reason I paid bust out retail and why I bought from this particular store. . .

Then it happened I needed service for light getting into the cabinet. . . They sent this guy from "Shorty's TV Repair" (LOL) who took one look at my Video Essentials DVD and said "I don't know about no God Damned DVD but if it works after I push the reset button I am leaving". . . I told him that "No. . . You are leaving now" to which he told me and my family where to go. . .

Needless to say I complained to Mits louder and then they sent "Shorty" himself. . .This guy was already pissed because I hurt the other guy's feelings and told me the same thing "If it has a picture after pushing the reset button I am leaving". . . Again I said "No. . . you are leaving now"

So finally I let my finger's do the walking and found a guy that I paid out of my pocket who understood and he fixed the set in about 10 minutes. . .

55WF or 60XS - which do you think would have the best picture?

Originally posted by Magicmirror3
55WF or 60XS - which do you think would have the best picture?

From how far viewing distance?

Smaller screens tend to look sharper at the same distance, but to many people have less impact than a bigger screen. So it really depends on what you value as "best".

I'm wondering why you're comparing a 55" WF model with a 60" XS model...? Except for the screen size and outer design they are pretty close to being the same thing. What about the 55" XS or the 60" WF?

I have the 55WF which I am viewing at ~9 feet. I love the set and truly believe it is the perfect size for my viewing distance. However, I am within my 30 day return window and have one dead pixel. They have to swap sets, and I could go for the 60XS for $600 more.

I expected to be a bit more overwelmed with the 55, but it's not too big at all. I'm generally not a big TV guy, but I like this set a lot, and thus I wonder if I might not go for a larger set now since it is a long-term investment. I fear that I might lose some detail in the picture by going to a bigger screen. However the XS is "supposed" to have a better picture. I don't see a big difference though. I looked both of them side by side today and the 55 seemed better.

I hate to mess with success since I love the 55WF so much. If I could go bigger with same detail I'd happily go larger though so I don't regret it in the future. I am a bit afraid of a TV that large that close.

Thanks for the feedback.

MagicMirror...

Based on your post, it sounds like the 55" is the way to go for you. The 60XS would get you a few advanced video tweaking options if you like that sort of thing. But the picture quality between the WF and XS is about the same, and going from a 55" to 60" at that close distance you *might* notice a slight detail loss, mainly in Standard Definition TV and DVDs.

I have the 60XS and I love it. The strange thing is, for about a week or so after I got it I kept thinking "damn that's big". Now I look at it and I really, truly don't see it as "big" anymore. About the right size for my room, distance and view preference.

If you are not the type of person who likes to sit close to the screen at a movie theater, or if "big" isn't your thing, I would say stick with the 55"- it's a great set.

Thanks for the feedback.

Sorry to hear about your service problems, gyusher and ehlarson. I really hope my service tech turns out to be as good as he seems. Mainly because I'm going crazy watching a 19 inch TV next to my 60 inch paperweight.

I've heard stories about Sears service in the past, but so far so good. The ballast was delivered to my house yesterday, and the tech said he'd be there to fix it tomorrow between 8 and 12.

I'll send an update after the work is done.

Originally posted by jimmyv99
Sorry to hear about your service problems, gyusher and ehlarson. I really hope my service tech turns out to be as good as he seems. Mainly because I'm going crazy watching a 19 inch TV next to my 60 inch paperweight.

I've heard stories about Sears service in the past, but so far so good. The ballast was delivered to my house yesterday, and the tech said he'd be there to fix it tomorrow between 8 and 12.

I'll send an update after the work is done.

My understanding is that Sears sometimes contracts to local jobbers in particular area for servicing of their products. I suppose some advance knowledge about those jobbers would be helpful. It seems you should have the option to obtain service from any who offer authorized service for a particular brand.

When I received my set, I noticed two issues. One was the white streaks on the screen, Link (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=5296876#post5296876) , and the other was a slight misconvergence on the entire right half of the screen. I had a Sears tech come out and he said both items were normal and within specs. In the last two days, I viewed two sets in different Sears stores and the convergence was perfect. The reflections may or may not be normal due to the location of the set next to a large sliding glass door. Based on this, I've decided to let Sears exchange the set. The new one will be delivered on Saturday. I'm keeping my fingers crossed and I'll post the results.

Originally posted by Magicmirror3
55WF or 60XS - which do you think would have the best picture?

When looking at these two sets, while making up my mind, it came down more to the cosmetic looks of the sets than the picture quality. Both sets have very good picture quality. The more modern look of the XS was not what I was looking for and the more traditional look of the WF was. The XS has some more user menu features, which is a plus, but I just could not get over those speakers. This is of coarse my personal preference and you will have to decide yours.

Originally posted by SunPowered
When I received my set, I noticed two issues. One was the white streaks on the screen, Link (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=5296876#post5296876) , and the other was a slight misconvergence on the entire right half of the screen. I had a Sears tech come out and he said both items were normal and within specs. In the last two days, I viewed two sets in different Sears stores and the convergence was perfect. The reflections may or may not be normal due to the location of the set next to a large sliding glass door. Based on this, I've decided to let Sears exchange the set. The new one will be delivered on Saturday. I'm keeping my fingers crossed and I'll post the results.

Well, It hasn't been a good day. The replacement arrived and at first glance, it appeared to be better. The convergence, while not perfect, is better than the 1st set, but this set has at least two stuck pixels. I say at least because I see some with a black screen and others with a bright screen. Also, there are dust specks either on the optics or screen. The white streaks are a different shape and not as bad. I placed a call to the salesman, but he already left for the day. When I saw him on Thursday he said if this one wasn't good they would send a third one. We'll see.

Geez, that sucks SunPowered. :( I don't have any stuck pixels on my 60XS nor does it show those white streaks. The convergence is also perfect as far as I can tell. Definitely exchange it again..what a hassle!

Originally posted by drwtsn32
Geez, that sucks SunPowered. :( I don't have any stuck pixels on my 60XS nor does it show those white streaks. The convergence is also perfect as far as I can tell. Definitely exchange it again..what a hassle!

Now that it's dark I took a closer look. There are 6 areas of stuck pixels. In 3 of the areas, there are multiple stuck pixels. In addition there is the 3mm diameter diffused blotch and a dirt speck. I don't think I'll have any problem exchanging it, but it is a hassle. It's 67 miles to the Sears store.

I'm sooo glad I bought the set locally, and I have to commend Sears on customer service.

Here is my situation: I have a new KV27FS320 in my living room. Up in my bonus room my 11 year old 45" Pioneer rear projection TV has bit the dust. I was considering a KV32FS320 as a replacement, but then I started looking at the 42WE655. Problem is I only have Comcast analog cable, and I am not quite ready to fork over the extra cash to comcast to get digital and HDTV. I will be able to pick up four or five local stations that broadcast in HD with an antenna. So I am basically looking for feedback as to whether or not the analog reception on the 42WE655 will be at least as good as on the old Pioneer and the new 27FS320. Thanks in advance for any and all feedback and opinions.

p.s. I really wish I had that 42WE655 today to watch the final round of the Masters in HDTV from one of my local stations!

Originally posted by SunPowered
Now that it's dark I took a closer look. There are 6 areas of stuck pixels. In 3 of the areas, there are multiple stuck pixels. In addition there is the 3mm diameter diffused blotch and a dirt speck. I don't think I'll have any problem exchanging it, but it is a hassle. It's 67 miles to the Sears store.

I'm sooo glad I bought the set locally, and I have to commend Sears on customer service.

Damn! Wish I wasn't so picky - but I am. I guess it's from aligning precision electronic equipment for 32 years.

Another set (#3) was delivered this morning (Sears gets an A for service). The delivery men moved it from the truck on a dolly with the carton standing on its end!

The room is light, but I see a couple of blue pixels. This is better than the 2nd set. The fan is a little louder. What bothers me are cosmetic issues. Why is 36" of the horizontal panel below the screen (with the Sony emblem) rough? It's as if it has been repainted. Why is the power button scratched and its chrome finish worn through on the edges? Why are there finger prints all over the case?

These things would not occur from shipping, the carton doesn't touch the power button. It's reminds me of a display model, however I don't think even a display unit on-off button would show that much wear. Could it be refurbished? The build date is March 2005. I'm puzzled. For this kind of money I want it to be right.

I talked to Sears and yes, they will send out another TV. Maybe I should start looking at other sets.

Wait for the new Sony units to come out in a couple of months.

Originally posted by SunPowered
I talked to Sears and yes, they will send out another TV. Maybe I should start looking at other sets.


Sun,

I would start to look for another set. It should not be so difficult to get a good set. I still believe that manufacturers pass items because they know most people will not complain....


Oh, I also found Sears to be quite good at exchanging sets. I don't have your tolerance. I decided that, if the replacement set had problems, I would look for something else. Don't think I would have gone for a third try.

Knock on wood, I am beginning to feel very lucky my 55WF655 has had 0 problems after 2 mos., even after my going into the SM and doing a few things which only yielded benefits.
It does everything so well. I can not see any defective pixels (have not pulled out my maginfying glass yet).
I am very pleased with this purchase. Considering I also trucked this baby out of the original crate, on it's back, at the rear of my SUV 150 miles from the dealer.

But having frequented several other forums for other merchandise, including autos, I am beginning to realize a fair portion of the posters are folks who are having problems, or maybe would never have gone to this forum in the first place.
I know I have done that myself on occasion. It is not so much about 'misery loves company' than it is about getting educated in the process.
In the final analysis, these displays seem non-problematic and very reliable over time with a few exceptions. I do get concerned when I read of someone returning set after set, with different and apparently legitimate complaints. It could well be related to a bad lot. Those can be very difficult to isolate by SN, etc. And the lastest mfg. date may not indicate the best lot.

Originally posted by aaronwt
Wait for the new Sony units to come out in a couple of months.

aaronwt:

That sounds like a good suggestion. If the next one has a problem, I may just get a refund and wait a couple of months.

SunPowered

I've been cruising this forum (among others) for months to get educated, but have never posted. I finally decided after much deliberation to get the 55WF655. I compared it to the 55" XS and really couldn't see a difference in quality of picture. I've only had it for a few days but high-def is marvelous. I have noticed that on high-def sources (1080i PBS wild life documentary on OTA antenna) that the image looks better (more life like) in the PRO mode with some tweaking, and on SD sources (480i D* Sat ESPN, etc) the image looks better (more crisp) in vivid mode with tweaking. Whereas vice versa results in less acceptable appearance. Has anyone else noticed this? Is there something different going on "behind the scenes" between modes besides the difference in presets of brightness, etc.? I've tried to learn what is really going on in the set, and how tweaks help, but I'm not a pro at this. Any good resource in these forums that anyone knows of that explains this.

just curious with all the problems people are having.
i purchased my set, still waiting for delivery from a brick and morter shop on the internet. shipping insurance is 195$, so i am wondering what your advice is once i get the TV delivered .. should i have the shipping people wait until i take this thing out of the box and plug it in and see if there are problems. im sure they will want you to sign off on it once they give it to you. but i have a problem signing it if i don't know if the darn thing will even turn on once i take it out of the box...

what are most people doing..? ive heard of people asking the shipping company to wait, but this could be at least a good hour taking your time to remove this huge TV. surely they are in a hurry and want to leave, last thing i want to do is have 2 carpet delivery guys be in a 'hurry' and drop my tv.

since im buying from online - if i have to return it, its that much more hassle.


thanks

Originally posted by Liquidous
just curious with all the problems people are having.
i purchased my set, still waiting for delivery from a brick and morter shop on the internet. shipping insurance is 195$, so i am wondering what your advice is once i get the TV delivered .. should i have the shipping people wait until i take this thing out of the box and plug it in and see if there are problems. im sure they will want you to sign off on it once they give it to you. but i have a problem signing it if i don't know if the darn thing will even turn on once i take it out of the box...

what are most people doing..? ive heard of people asking the shipping company to wait, but this could be at least a good hour taking your time to remove this huge TV. surely they are in a hurry and want to leave, last thing i want to do is have 2 carpet delivery guys be in a 'hurry' and drop my tv.

since im buying from online - if i have to return it, its that much more hassle.


thanks

It is very important to fully understand your dealer's responsibility in all this. It would be easy for me to throw out a couple of names based on my experience of 'remote' dealers who are generous about return shipments.
But most will only accept immediate returns if the damage is physical, and visible. The shipper SHOULD be willing to wait for you to verify that. And the dealer's shipping instructions should state that.
Some offer white glove service, which is setting it up in your home and allowing you to power up. But that's about as far as any mail order or internet dealer would be willing to go. And that service is usually charged for, but typically is quite nominal.
The really exceptional dealers will go as far as letting you return ones that are DOA. That is a rare occurence anyway, I would think.
In the end. there is no reason your set should be any better or worse than one that is delivered by a local store.
Just remember, you are not likely to have the luxury of returning it for 'any reason' within 30 days.

good advice. ill be sure to checkup on the terms of shipping. etc.
i don't see myself returning it within 30 days for 'any reason'. i don't plan on playing those games. not to say people do it to 'play the game'. ive been researching this tv for almost a year now, im ready as ever to pull the trigger on buying it. but you are right, i have to confirm the terms.

you have anything negative to say about usawholesaleclub.com ? if so, let me know, even if its by private email. PM.

I have had good luck 99% of the time with various dealers. I mostly order 'small' stuff, but not necessarily inexpensive.
Not in any order of preference, onecall.com, Vanns.com, Sony, and Crutchfield. These are ones I either had direct contact with, or have friends or associates that have been very pleased with the service.

This has nothing to do with 'price' but everything to do with customer service. I am sure there are others. I've heard good things on the forum about TV Authority but have not had dealings with them.

Originally posted by domer99
I've been cruising this forum (among others) for months to get educated, but have never posted. I finally decided after much deliberation to get the 55WF655. I compared it to the 55" XS and really couldn't see a difference in quality of picture. I've only had it for a few days but high-def is marvelous. I have noticed that on high-def sources (1080i PBS wild life documentary on OTA antenna) that the image looks better (more life like) in the PRO mode with some tweaking, and on SD sources (480i D* Sat ESPN, etc) the image looks better (more crisp) in vivid mode with tweaking. Whereas vice versa results in less acceptable appearance. Has anyone else noticed this? Is there something different going on "behind the scenes" between modes besides the difference in presets of brightness, etc.? I've tried to learn what is really going on in the set, and how tweaks help, but I'm not a pro at this. Any good resource in these forums that anyone knows of that explains this.

PBS in my area is 720p and looks outstanding. I am currently swapping between standard and pro with tweaks to picture, brightness, etc.....some stations look good in standard, some good in pro. I only use vivid for gaming and even that could prolly be tweaked down, but it just matters what looks goood to you. I can't watch SD in vivid, to me it looks over saturated in colour and brightness.

Maybe one of the pros can tell you what is going on behind the scenes.

Originally posted by Liquidous
good advice. ill be sure to checkup on the terms of shipping. etc.
i don't see myself returning it within 30 days for 'any reason'. i don't plan on playing those games. not to say people do it to 'play the game'. ive been researching this tv for almost a year now, im ready as ever to pull the trigger on buying it. but you are right, i have to confirm the terms.

I second that advice. Know the terms. I found there are B&M stores that do not accept returns, even for items that show up defective. Once you sign for the box, it's yours.

As far as returning it. I did not plan on returning my set, but the first one showed up with problems. So, I was happy that Sears exchanged the set for a new one. I did not like the idea of a brand new set needing service, which would have happened if I went with mail order or a certain B&M store.

Saying that, best of luck with your new set. I think you will enjoy it....

Originally posted by Crunker
PBS in my area is 720p and looks outstanding. I am currently swapping between standard and pro with tweaks to picture, brightness, etc.....some stations look good in standard, some good in pro. I only use vivid for gaming and even that could prolly be tweaked down, but it just matters what looks goood to you. I can't watch SD in vivid, to me it looks over saturated in colour and brightness.

Maybe one of the pros can tell you what is going on behind the scenes.

Same here - I watch SD in tweaked Standard and HD in tweaked Pro. I don't like anything in Vivid - too 'contrasty and saturated' to me.

All channels come from my DVR output which puts out everything converted to 1080i. This is a bummer, because I have to switch between Standard and Pro mode manually since the TV is always seeing 1080i on the same input.

I'd like to hear thoughts on a creative way to still use the DVR for all viewing (so I can use the i-guide and time-shift) and yet not have to manually switch Pict mode every time I change between SD and HD channels.

Jeff

Originally posted by domer99
...I finally decided after much deliberation to get the 55WF655. I compared it to the 55" XS and really couldn't see a difference in quality of picture...I have noticed that on high-def sources (1080i PBS wild life documentary on OTA antenna) that the image looks better (more life like) in the PRO mode with some tweaking, and on SD sources (480i D* Sat ESPN, etc) the image looks better (more crisp) in vivid mode with tweaking. Whereas vice versa results in less acceptable appearance. Has anyone else noticed this? Is there something different going on "behind the scenes" between modes besides the difference in presets of brightness, etc.?...

Other than some tweaks being greyed out in certain modes, Pro and Vivid are just default presets. IOW, you can tweak (and store) Pro to look exactly like Vivid, and vice versa (ignoring the greyed out stuff). They are simply shortcuts to profiles determined by Sony that will fit particular types of viewing with minimal user input. But of course it would be a shame to lay down this kind of coin without taking time to get the best performance out of it, so most of us gravitate away from the defaults at some point, some even to the point of severe tweaking by local "experts", which they pay dearly for. Getting SD to look acceptable is I think the most challenging thing, as it takes a lot of adjustments in the DRC.

As far as noticing little difference between the WF/WE/XS, at first that is normal, because the default presets are pretty similar, and the WEGA engine is I think identical, as is the screen. Only when you get into some of the deeper adjustments (gamma, clear white, live color, etc.), does the XS begin to stand out. These differences are significant and are what IMO makes the XS worth the extra $$$ (along with the extra HDMI and the floating speakers, a design I wasn't sure about at first but which quickly grew on me, which can fairly easily be adapted as center speakers on the XS), but if you really are motivated, the WE/WFs can be adjusted similarly in the service menu.

Originally posted by jimmyv99 (04/07/05)
Sorry to hear about your service problems, gyusher and ehlarson. I really hope my service tech turns out to be as good as he seems. Mainly because I'm going crazy watching a 19 inch TV next to my 60 inch paperweight.

I've heard stories about Sears service in the past, but so far so good. The ballast was delivered to my house yesterday, and the tech said he'd be there to fix it tomorrow between 8 and 12.

I'll send an update after the work is done.

Well the work is finally done. They were supposed to be there last Friday to fix it, as I stated before, and they never showed up. I called around 12:15 to find out what the deal was and they said that only one of the two parts was shown as delivered to my house (Apparently, they ordered me a ballast and a lamp, and only the ballast had shown up). I told them that I didn't need a lamp, just a ballast, but they said there was nothing they could do. They said they tried to get ahold of me to let me know they weren't coming but I had no messages on my telephone. So anyway, knowing that I was fighting a losing battle, I rescheduled them for Tuesday morning (today). Which really chapped me because I had to miss The Masters and Martinsville in HD.

Anyway, the guy showed up this morning about 9:30 am (different guy from the original guy, but equally as knowledgeable). It took him about 30 minutes to take it apart and put it back together with the new ballast, then we tested it and it FINALLY worked. 8 days and 23 hours after I discovered the problem. I was so happy to have my TV back that I tipped the guy enough for lunch and then spent an extra hour watching it before I went back to work.

I'll give Sears an A-. Their communication was slightly lacking, but their service people were EXCELLENT.

Hopefully this will be my last post regarding this issue.

__________________________________________________________
Other than some tweaks being greyed out in certain modes, Pro and Vivid are just default presets. IOW, you can tweak (and store) Pro to look exactly like Vivid, and vice versa (ignoring the greyed out stuff). They are simply shortcuts to profiles determined by Sony that will fit particular types of viewing with minimal user input. But of course it would be a shame to lay down this kind of coin without taking time to get the best performance out of it, so most of us gravitate away from the defaults at some point, some even to the point of severe tweaking by local "experts", which they pay dearly for. Getting SD to look acceptable is I think the most challenging thing, as it takes a lot of adjustments in the DRC.
__________________________________________________________

Thanks for the info. Just out of curiosity, what do you have for your settings in Pro mode? Do you use the low energy option for the lamp? Do you bother with the advanced tuning features? Specifically the reality vs ??? box in the advanced feature area? It would be good to compare somebody else's presets to mine just to see if I could get even a better picture than I am. I have no interest in the "expert" tweaks. Thanks.

Originally posted by HD_OCD
Same here - I watch SD in tweaked Standard and HD in tweaked Pro. I don't like anything in Vivid - too 'contrasty and saturated' to me.

All channels come from my DVR output which puts out everything converted to 1080i. This is a bummer, because I have to switch between Standard and Pro mode manually since the TV is always seeing 1080i on the same input.

I'd like to hear thoughts on a creative way to still use the DVR for all viewing (so I can use the i-guide and time-shift) and yet not have to manually switch Pict mode every time I change between SD and HD channels.

Jeff

Jeff: I have a 55WF and a Dish 508 PVR. I get HD (on local only of course) through OTA. I originally set up my PVR using the S-video outputs to the TV and used composite out for another input. I don't know if your DVR has multiple outputs, but this worked for me. If not, I would check to see if there is a splitter to use from the DVR. You may lose some quality on one or the other, but it may be better than having to change the settings all the time.
Alternatively, if you have a DVI output from the PVR, you could get a DVI to HDMI cable for the HD and use a different output from the PVR to the input on the TV for SD.

Just some thoughts. I am a real amateur at this. I also use standard for SD and pro for HD as well as DVD. Vivid must be just for the showroom.

I like vivid for live hd events

UVArplcd,

Seems that no matter how you set it up you will have to hit a button (which it seems you're trying to avoid) every time you switch between HD and SD because you like different presets for different SD vs HD material. If you split the signal or use two separate outputs from your DVR into two separate inputs into your TV you'll have to hit a button to switch to the right input (of course the pro or standard settings will then be set for each input), or you'll have to switch your settings mode if you have both HD and SD coming through the same input (which is what I do). I don't think there's anyway for the set to autodetect the input AND link that to specific display settings (although that would be cool). Is that right?

Originally posted by TomCat
and the floating speakers, a design I wasn't sure about at first but which quickly grew on me, which can fairly easily be adapted as center speakers on the XS), but if you really are motivated, the WE/WFs can be adjusted similarly in the service menu.

How can the "floating" speakers be adapted as center speakers?

By removing 17 screws and splicing the wiring (the main box stays intact). It's actually not as difficult as that sounds. PM me for details if interested.

Originally posted by domer99
UVArplcd,

Seems that no matter how you set it up you will have to hit a button (which it seems you're trying to avoid) every time you switch between HD and SD because you like different presets for different SD vs HD material... I don't think there's anyway for the set to autodetect the input AND link that to specific display settings (although that would be cool). Is that right?

Actually, if you have a normal setup, and record only HD recordings on your HD Tivo, and use the built-in Sony tuner only for DT channels, and get all SD from a second PVR/DBS receiver or from DVD or VHS, (actually a pretty common setup) HD and SD sources are naturally segregated by input, and each input can have its own tweaks. The exception is SD over DT, which doesn't have any of the issues (other than limited rez) that SD from other sources has, so that can enjoy the same tweaks as HD over DT. Even if you don't set things up in this way, you have 3 profiles per input, meaning you can set a profile for HD and another for SD over the same input (which does require a few button-presses to toggle).

Originally posted by domer99
...
Thanks for the info. Just out of curiosity, what do you have for your settings in Pro mode? Do you use the low energy option for the lamp? Do you bother with the advanced tuning features? Specifically the reality vs ??? box in the advanced feature area?... Thanks.

The reason the DRC tweaks are so hard is specifically because they are so subtle. As such, they take time to get right, and even then there is severe limitations to what they can do, especially with bad SD sources. The Reality vs. Clarity thing is so obtuse as to be almost useless, unfortunately. Some of the pulldown setting seem to provide better still frames than others, and a little edge enhancement can help SD, as long as it includes enough high-frequency detail to enhance, but I think you are best off adjusting things to how it looks best to you. Oddly enough, sharpness seems to do little or nothing at all on the Sony, even when viewing the HDNet TP. It affects frequencies between about 6.2 and 6.7 MHz, which are actually higher than 720 can resolve, and usually higher than 99.999% of HD images.

I couldn't tell you what my DRC settings are without looking, and if I started from scratch I could never duplicate them twice in a row, as they are hard to set by eye and the results aren't really that obvious. As such, I think transposing numbers from one set to another doesn't even really give a good jumping off point, making that a fairly useless exercise...especially since your SD sources aren't likely identical to mine or anyone else's.

I do heartily recommend the "Power Saver" mode, as it apears to help the absolute black level (less in-cabinet light means less light leakage means better blacks). Turning up the brightness to compensate does not destroy the improvement, either, but makes it even better. I'm a big fan of the Gamma Corrector, Live Color, and Clear White, also, as those adjustments have a much more significant impact on HD or SD than DRC does on SD.

For easier calibration:

http://www.manifest-tech.com/ce_photo/calib_colorvision.htm

Living here in Panama City,Fla (redneck Riviera) among the unwashed and little gray matter, it has been a real trying experience to get HD programming via cablecard with Comcast. It also has been an ordeal with HDMI interface between Denon & Sony.

I started in late Oct/2004 and on Apr 14/2005 it all began to work properly.

I bought a 42we from Sears 1st which was replaced by a 55wf (within 30 days) due to HDMI issues which were solved with Denon firmware upgrade to my 2910. Sears was very good through out the whole process and Sears was very aggressive in their pricing.

After many visits from Comcast my Cablecard now works properly. The techs sent to my house could not figure out monster cable component cables versus their R-G-B cables. The techs did not know cablecard parameters and the last one left scratching his head (after he had replaced my cablecard & checked signal strength) - I had intermittent dropout and had to continuously reset Cablecard or wait several minutes for the signal to return. A new line was dropped due to low signal - still failed. Overnight one night it just started to work with no errors without any interaction from my end. I called Comcast two days later to determine how they solved my problem. To my amazement they said they did not do a thing. I don't believe the CSR - I think they finally sent me the right code for my config.

I post this message to advise those that have errors/issues to do your own research and don't assume the techs coming to your house know anymore than you. I trust Sears to do the right thing and I don't trust Comcast to tell me the truth (just a feeling-no fact). I feel as if I alone trained Comcast to troubleshoot cablecard problems and in the end I am finally happy with my HD service.

Good luck out there!!

Originally posted by jmdaniel
For easier calibration:

http://www.manifest-tech.com/ce_photo/calib_colorvision.htm

They've had stick-on colorimeters in broadcasting and desktop publishing for years. Nobody in the professional broadcasting world really uses them, and they are rarely used in desktop publishing or film prep, where they actually serve a purpose. They have a certain value in making a display uniform in that it will look fairly identical to another, but they have extremely limited use for making a display look the way a viewer wants it to look. We view with our eyes, not with colorimeters, which while not prone to subjective or perceptive coloration, are extremely primitive compared to the capability of the human eye. IOW, another scam.

TomCat,

I watch movies in a dark room. What Gamma setting would you suggest?

I don't have the tools necessary to measure which setting leads to the correct Gamma setting.

-Brian

I think you have to define "correct" first. And you do indeed have the tools, both of which reside on either side of your nose. "Gamma Corrector" is an ironic misnomer, because all diplays have an inherent gamma correction built in, which allows the display to have the same characteristics of response to gray scale as human vision. Only that setting is "correct" in the strict technical sense. The Sony GC circuit is actually more of a gamma "distorter". What you are doing is cranking gamma quite significantly away from the "correct" standard in order to make the images more pleasing (if that is indeed how you perceive them) to your eye.

Bottom line, it is a non-standard adjustment that many will cluck their tongues at, but what you as the viewer likes is the only standard that is really important, so throw away any intimidation or coercion that you may be doing something detrimental to the picture, and let it all hang out. IOW, experiment, and pick what suits you the best, and don't be concerned that you might be doing the wrong thing. In my world, "correct" is defined by what works best for me. As long as no one else is affected, what could ever be more "correct" than what I choose and deem as correct?

I set mine on the most extreme position and never looked back. I think you can have too much of any good thing, but in this case, and to my eye, the top setting is just about perfect for all viewing, and for a RP display works wonders. Without GC, the gray scale window seems a little cramped on LCD/DLP, and it feels like any adjustment is a compromise of one thing (brightness, for instance) over another (contrast, for instance). That is a situation that is less than optimal with displays that have absolute black level issues (all RPs). The Sony GC seems to compensate quite nicely for that, and any gray scale issues that RP seems to have vs. CRTs are all but eliminated. In short, I think the top GC setting makes the Sony LCD display about as good as the big-screen TV experience can possibly get.

I know this has been addressed here already but could not find it. I have the WF655 and am trying to find the lamp hours in the service menu and have had no luck. Can someone tell me which menu I jump to for lamp hours....thanks.

Originally posted by Bghead8che
TomCat,

I watch movies in a dark room. What Gamma setting would you suggest?

I don't have the tools necessary to measure which setting leads to the correct Gamma setting.

-Brian

Not a Cat, but a Wolf. Prefer lower Gamma at night, and Medium during daylight. That tones it down at night, and provides brightness when the room is fully lit.

As TC says, try it - and your eyes are the best judge.

Several months ago I bought a Sony KDF-60XS955. The set has developed a problem that causes it to not be able to receive several channels at times, with the black screen displaying "no signal"

I am using a cable card with Cox Cable. I also have an over the air antenna which receives local HDTV broadcasts.

Originally suspecting the cable co. hardware, I have had several cable cards replaced, and that didn't solve the problem.

Sometimes a transmission will suddenly go black and "no signal" will appear on the black screen. At other times there will be no sound with a good picture.
The problem can usually be solved by turning the tv off and on again, but it can re-occur while watching broadcast. (most of the times at critical times of a plot)

Another thing I've noticed is that if the HD Network (eg NBC or ABC) cable transmission signal is not being received and I switch the remote to the over the air (antenna) equivalent station isn't either. The other tv's on the cable have no problems.

It looks like this is might be a Sony tuner problem, and I was wondering if it is a known problem that others have had.

Thanks for any help or comments!

Jim

I posed a question in the Qualia 006 thread on gamma to someone who seems very knowledgeable, and experienced in the broadcast industry. Here is a link to cross reference for GWIV owners interested in the subject of Gamma Correction.

Original Post (to which I asked question why author feels gamma is a waste)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=5491683#post5491683

The response:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=5494340#post5494340

Edited to add original post.