I ran audio directly from my DVD player to my sound system because I dont use the sound on the TV. If you want to use both go out from the DVD to the TV then from the TV to your sound sytem. In order to Bi pass the audio in your TV however you will have to turn off the speaker on the TV as out put doesnt work with the TV speaker on. Also depending on what kind of cable you use to run the audio ( I assume it will be RCA ) you need to set the TV audio to the specific cable in the audio menu. Also dont forget to change your DVD players out put to match your TV! Enjoy!

I ran audio directly from my DVD player to my sound system because I dont use the sound on the TV. If you want to use both go out from the DVD to the TV then from the TV to your sound sytem. In order to Bi pass the audio in your TV however you will have to turn off the speaker on the TV as out put doesnt work with the TV speaker on. Also depending on what kind of cable you use to run the audio ( I assume it will be RCA ) you need to set the TV audio to the specific cable in the audio menu. Also dont forget to change your DVD players out put to match your TV! Enjoy!

well the problem is the sony 42we655 doesnt have an optical input. So how am I suppose to get dvd sound from my tv using component cables that dont carry an audio signal?

well the problem is the sony 42we655 doesnt have an optical input. So how am I suppose to get dvd sound from my tv using component cables that dont carry an audio signal?

Why don't you use the right/left audio outs from the DVDP to the composite ins on the TV? Simple, cheap, functional.

jc

I have my DVD player with the component cables along with a set of RCA cables for the sound. Then my optical going to the reciever for when I want 5.1 surround. Thats so my kid can watch his cartoon DVD's without all the equipment on. Also when I use the reciever, I just turn the TV volume all the way down. :)

Digital Caption:

Sometimes, there is a "Sticky Caption" from digital signals. What I mean is, the text just hangs there. Even while new text is updating properly, the sticky caption stays there until I hit menu on and off to clear it off. I have the 42we655

Any Ideas?


Joe

I posted this in the GWIII section and it was suggested to post here also.

I turned on my KF-WE610 yesterday and Purple lines appeared in the middle of the screen (see attached file). Has anyone seen this before? I called Sony and they stepped me through a power reset but it did not correct the problem. This appears on the screen at all inputs. The unit is 1yr, 8 months old, so it is out of the warranty period.


After about 2 hours half of the purple lines dissappeared, however when I turn the unit off for about 2 hours and turned it back on half of the purple lines appeared again.

I have no idea what is going on. I thought I'd try here before calling for in home service (ouch!). I hope this is something that Sony will cover even out of warranty.

-James

[QUOTE=bunder]Some general questions about the GWIV...

1) What is the refresh (sync) rate of these sets? How does....

2) How ...QUOTE]


Does anyone have an answer to Q:1?

Maybe I'm oversimplifying my understanding of your question, but any modern DTV display is just like a multisync monitor and scans at the field rate. IOW, if you are receiving 720p, it scans at the receive rate of 60fps (or 59.94).

So what causes the "motion blur" in these RP LCD?

I thought it had to do with the refresh rate, like flat panel LCD's.

Does GW4s use 8 bit or 10 bit video processing for HDMI signal?

12 bit on the X B R 950.....

How about on 55 and 60xs955?

One thing that upsets me is that Picture in Picture will soon be useless as more and more channels switch to digital. :(

PIP issue...

Strykers right, when all channels are DTV then PIP is useless...

Is that because there is only one ATSC tuner? Could a firmware update help? I wanted to use my PS2 with componet video and use split PIP but only video 5,6 and 7 are not able to display in the small PIP... Alas, I have chosen to use RCA video.... Any ideas?

Joe

Has anyone figured out how to fix the input bug? Mine does it every 3 to 7 days for the 10 seconds then dissapears. :rolleyes:

I'd like to know how to fix this as well. It's not a major issue but it does bug me. Anyone have any info related to this?

So what causes the "motion blur" in these RP LCD?

I thought it had to do with the refresh rate, like flat panel LCD's.

I don't think modern LCD's blur all that much. IOW, the persistence is less than about 5-6 ms, which is too fast to see. While DLP manufacturers will claim that DLP is faster, anything faster than you can see is already fast enough.

What you might be referring to as motion blur might be pixelation motion artifacts caused by bit starving. This would be indicated by the blocky texture, and is not due to the display, but rather the source content. IOW, no display really does either a better or a worse job of dealing with that. The artifacts manifest in the decoder, but are due to encoding and transmission problems.

One thing that upsets me is that Picture in Picture will soon be useless as more and more channels switch to digital. :(

You could always route a HD Tivo set to 480i output into a video input and get PIP that way. After all, we hardly need HD resolution inside the PIP. :)

I don't think modern LCD's blur all that much. IOW, the persistence is less than about 5-6 ms, which is too fast to see. While DLP manufacturers will claim that DLP is faster, anything faster than you can see is already fast enough.

What you might be referring to as motion blur might be pixelation motion artifacts caused by bit starving. This would be indicated by the blocky texture, and is not due to the display, but rather the source content. IOW, no display really does either a better or a worse job of dealing with that. The artifacts manifest in the decoder, but are due to encoding and transmission problems.

TomCat,
Thanks for the detailed reply.

What I have seen is exactely what you describe as "pixelation motion artifacts caused by bit starving". The fast moving objects (basketball player, skateboarder) had a blocky texture trail. This was very noticable on a Sony LCD RP, but it did not exist on a Panasonic ED Plasma that was mounted on a wall right next to it. The saleman at this Tweeter said that this is common on all LCD RP and LCD flat panels. The LCD RP might of had a bad feed, but I assumed it was good since it was Tweeter.


P.S., What does IOW mean?

Stores (Tweeter included) will sometimes use better feeds on the more expensive models on-purpose in order to make that much more of a difference in quality...

Stores (Tweeter included) will sometimes use better feeds on the more expensive models on-purpose in order to make that much more of a difference in quality...

At that time:
The Sony LCD RP was selling for ~$2800 and the Panasonic ED Plasma was ~$2400.

I was ready to buy the Sony untill I observed the drastic differance in PQ. I'm hoping the new Sony A10 has a faster response time over last years. Otherwise...

Again, I think you might be a victim of sales-speak. Motion artifacts have never been tied to either LCD or plasma displays, and the kinds of motion artifacts you are describing are most assuredly content-based, meaning that there is little the display can do to either make them more or less noticeable.

They will be more noticeable on larger displays, and displays with higher resolution, of which your comparison scenario reflects at least the latter and probably also the former component. Even brighter, better-adjusted displays will show you not only the desired images in greater detail, but any flaws in them in greater detail as well, so maybe that's what is at work here. But there is no inherent artifact or flaw in LCD vs. plasma that would justify equal-resolution, equal-sized displays with equal brightness and equal calibration to react even slightly different when manifesting this particular artifact. Making the difference appear "drastic" would be a nearly impossible trick, without some other factor at work.

DLP displays sometimes (read: Samsung) display a higher degree of motion artifacting, and that is indeed due to the display architecture and processing in DLPs, but most folks can't even see that.

I have yet to hear of any such problem with Sony or other modern LCD displays, and 164 pages of posts from satisfied customers (and some not completely satisfied) completely reflect that. Not one post in this thread has ever questioned display-based artifacts from the GWIVs (until now, of course). Not only that, but many gamers have chimed in. Gamers are especially sensitive to display blur and demand the highest performance in that category, and all seem to find the new GWIVs to respond plenty fast enough without adding artifacting of their own.

Many folks here are quite a bit like me, in that they would not have ever laid out $3700 or so for a display that contributed artifacting of any kind. One that performs as you describe must be faulty in some way, and not representative of the GWIVs.

My display is the 42WE655....

Is that considered a GWIV? Manufactured in March 2005.....

Thanks!!

Again, has anyone experienced the digital caption lingering as I mentioned earlier? certain lines of digital caption stay on screen until it is cleared by envoking the menu and then exiting the menu...


Thanks again!

Joe

Without knowing about this thread, I posted some questions here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=558101

Hello. Just bought a KDF-60WF655 and I'm very pleased with it (and my wallet too)
:-)

I've got a couple of questions - maybe I need to read the manual a bit more but I hope I can get some feedback:

It always display 480i as input when hitting the Display button, however I've got a progressive DVD player, and I'm pretty sure its output is 480p (if not 720p)

Was able to play some movies with widescreen modes, but for example no matter what mode, The Matrix movie has about 1 to 2 inches of horizontal black bars at the top and bottom, why is this?

It does not have a PC input, but in theory, you could take the DVI output of your PC and get a DVI->HDMI cable and be able to view your PCs output, correct?

Hooking up the DVD player to the HDMI results in better picture?

Which DVD player do you have with your Sony set?
Since the TV does upconversion (or down) to the native resoultion, does it really make sense to get a progressive DVD player?

thanks!

Without knowing about this thread, I posted some questions here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=558101

Hello. Just bought a KDF-60WF655 and I'm very pleased with it (and my wallet too)
:-)

I've got a couple of questions - maybe I need to read the manual a bit more but I hope I can get some feedback:

It always display 480i as input when hitting the Display button, however I've got a progressive DVD player, and I'm pretty sure its output is 480p (if not 720p)

Was able to play some movies with widescreen modes, but for example no matter what mode, The Matrix movie has about 1 to 2 inches of horizontal black bars at the top and bottom, why is this?

It does not have a PC input, but in theory, you could take the DVI output of your PC and get a DVI->HDMI cable and be able to view your PCs output, correct?

Hooking up the DVD player to the HDMI results in better picture?

Which DVD player do you have with your Sony set?
Since the TV does upconversion (or down) to the native resoultion, does it really make sense to get a progressive DVD player?

thanks!

totem --

Have you noticed the display information popping up on your TV at random times? I have the same TV and it happens every few days or so. It will will pop up for about 10 seconds and go away or you can hit the display button to make it go away immediately. I was hoping to find someone who might know a fix for this. It's not a major issue by any means but it is somewhat annoying. I know a few others have encountered this but Sony's support site doesn't have any info related to it.

Have you noticed the display information popping up on your TV at random times?

This is a known issue that I think just about everyone with this set has seen, but the frequency of it happening varies. I don't remember seeing it in the last month or so, but it happened one month about 3 or 4 times. :confused:

totem --

Have you noticed the display information popping up on your TV at random times? I have the same TV and it happens every few days or so. It will will pop up for about 10 seconds and go away or you can hit the display button to make it go away immediately. I was hoping to find someone who might know a fix for this. It's not a major issue by any means but it is somewhat annoying. I know a few others have encountered this but Sony's support site doesn't have any info related to it.


Does the image cut out for a second? Because if so then it could be that the signal is cutting out for a second, thus when the TV detects it again it displays the info again.

I posted this in the other thread you had as well Toem but Ill paste it in here for you too...hope it helps
I had to check on my TV to determine what the problem was with the the 480i isuue. The TV will display ONLY what is being fed. I went into my cable box setting and went to an HD channel. When I hit display on the TV remote it said 1080i. When I went into my cable box menu and turned off 1080i then went to the HD channel it said 480i. So...the TV is only displaying what is being fed. If you go into your DVD menu you should be able to change the display setting. I had to change mine to progressive in order for it to be progressive otherwise it defaults back to 480i. Make sense? So it isnt the TV check your Cable box or Dish reciever as well as your DVD player to make sure they are all set to the correct output.

As far as the issue with the remote showing the display at random....it has happened to me in the past but not anymore...all you have to do is make sure the remote isnt facing the TV when you set it down...lol. It was the only thing I found that helped!

As far as the issue with the remote showing the display at random....it has happened to me in the past but not anymore...all you have to do is make sure the remote isnt facing the TV when you set it down...lol. It was the only thing I found that helped!

I don't think that is the problem with the remote. I have not used my factory remote since the first week of purchace. It is hidden in my wall unit cabinets. I have a Pronto Pro 7000 that I use. :) Even with that I still get the input bug from time to time. Sometimes its weeks before it happens, then one week I had it happed 4 times. :( Maybe a future firmware will help.

LOL...out the door with that thought then. Must be coincidence! Now I will have it happen all the time now that I know it doesnt help :D

As far as the issue with the remote showing the display at random....it has happened to me in the past but not anymore...all you have to do is make sure the remote isnt facing the TV when you set it down...lol. It was the only thing I found that helped!

Then my Harmony must have learned the command to do it from the Logitech programming site. It still happens with the Sony remote in a drawer.

Hey gang, hope everyone's having a great summer. About a month ago I bought a kdf50we655, my first "real" tv. Anyway, up till now it's been fantastic. A couple days ago I started noticing that the audio track on abc's hd was not quite in sync with the picture. It only does it on abc hd, abc non-hd is fine. All the other hd channels are fine.

I have to believe that it is a problem with abc's hd transmission as it seems to be the most unreliable of all the channels. It's not uncommon for that channel to go off the air or have a messed up picture. Should I be concerened that there is a problem with my tv? Thanks in advance for any advice.

Steve

Does the image cut out for a second? Because if so then it could be that the signal is cutting out for a second, thus when the TV detects it again it displays the info again.

Finally, order among the chaos. This is the likely culprit. It very well may be that the GWIV is over-sensitive, and the slightest mini-glitch can cause the display to interpret this as an input source change, meaning it thinks its time to put up that particular display. If they lengthen the time-out on that in upcoming models, that problem will likely go away.

I think...the kinds of motion artifacts you are describing are most assuredly content-based...

I rarely quote myself, but it just occured to me that if you have a recorder, such as a HR10, you can easily prove this by freeze-framing a shot with high motion. If the macroblocks remain on the screen, they are burned into the content. If they fade away, the display is at fault, and faulty.

Thanks for the responses Couch Commander, all. I picked up the HDTV box today, and was able to confirm that the TV now shows 1080i as the input when I press the display button. Need to check the DVD again (been re-arranging equiptment around, almost dropped my MonsterPower HTPS-7000!)

mpennin30, I have not seen the display information popping up at random times, but again, I've only had the TV for 2 days now. I checked the manufactured date, and it says May 2005, so it could well be something fixed in the later models (?).

Is there any way to force the TV to not upconvert?
With the cable DVR, if I'm watching a SDTV channel and hit "list" to list the recorded programs, the TV image gets reduced to 1/4 of the TV size on the upper right corner and it looks _sharp_! Any way of forcing the TV to do something like this to get a sharper image for SDTV?

It does not have a PC input, but in theory, you could take the DVI output of your PC and get a DVI->HDMI cable and be able to view your PCs output, correct?
Has anyone tried this? on a GWIV?

thanks

GWIV works great with a DVI->HDMI connection, there are many threads about it in the HTPC forum. Here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4802649#post4802649) is where I started.. It started working really effortlessly when NVIDIA added "HDTV" presets to their driver/control panel software. You can use that, or tweak for an even better picture on your own with powerstrip and others..

DVI->HDMI cable (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=5002644#post5002644)

Finally, order among the chaos. This is the likely culprit. It very well may be that the GWIV is over-sensitive, and the slightest mini-glitch can cause the display to interpret this as an input source change, meaning it thinks its time to put up that particular display. If they lengthen the time-out on that in upcoming models, that problem will likely go away.

Believe it or not, I had this thought when I first started seeing this happen. It would make sense because the only time that display info normally comes on is when you turn on the TV and change inputs. It might just be a loss of signal for like a milli-second that causes it which maybe isn't detectable to the human eye. Oh well, it's not a big issue just an annoying one. :D

Believe it or not, I had this thought when I first started seeing this happen. It would make sense because the only time that display info normally comes on is when you turn on the TV and change inputs. It might just be a loss of signal for like a milli-second that causes it which maybe isn't detectable to the human eye. Oh well, it's not a big issue just an annoying one. :D

There is similar discussion, and suspicions over at agoraquest.com. Variations from input sources triggering the banner.
At one time AC power glitches were also considered.

Funny thing, last night I was watching the DVD "The Aviator" and the display screen appeared for no apparant reason. This was Video 7 "via HDMI.

Anyone ever notice the digital caption issue I mentioned earlier??


Joe

A good example of this is Discovery HDT's "Sunrise Earth", where the bright, high-chroma areas look good, but the shadows have a lot of busy noise in them.


Has anyone found any service menu tweaks so that this background noise in dark scenes can be minimized?

My 61" GWIII is not nearly as bad as my 42" GWIV with respect to this background noise in darker scenes. I'm hoping that there are some tweaks that will reduce this noise on my GWIV.

Has anyone found any service menu tweaks so that this background noise in dark scenes can be minimized?

My 61" GWIII is not nearly as bad as my 42" GWIV with respect to this background noise in darker scenes. I'm hoping that there are some tweaks that will reduce this noise on my GWIV.

I can not say I see much of any noise in dark areas when viewing HD material. In fact, I see little of anything in dark areas (would like to see more detail). It may well be a function of your HD receiver (Sat or cable?). Maybe try another resolution setting in your receiver?

Has anyone found any service menu tweaks so that this background noise in dark scenes can be minimized?

My 61" GWIII is not nearly as bad as my 42" GWIV with respect to this background noise in darker scenes. I'm hoping that there are some tweaks that will reduce this noise on my GWIV.

I think there will not be much luck on that front. The GWIV is typically pretty noise free to begin with. But if the input video has noise, the GWIV will certainly faithfully reproduce this. The irony of an older set with less resolution is that it masks noise more effectively. In your case, tho, it sounds like your GWIV may need a service call.

I was just about to order a KDF42WE655 when I read on here that the headphone jacks (AUDIO OUT) do not work unless the internal speakers are OFF. Is this really true? Seems kinda st*p*d. Has this been fixed in the newer versions? Is there another way around it?

RonG

If you're using headphones, why would you want the speakers on?

If you're using headphones, why would you want the speakers on?

Sometimes I might want to listen in another room (while someone else is watching) while I am working, etc., and I could use the wireless headphones for that.

Even if not, it seems inconvenient to have to turn off the speakers (I assuming through some set of menu options) just to listen to headphones. Have not seen this on other TVs (at least none that I have or others that I know of).

RonG

You could always route a HD Tivo set to 480i output into a video input and get PIP that way. After all, we hardly need HD resolution inside the PIP. :)

It's not that I want HD rez in both windows. The analog channels are switching over to digital slowly. Right now channels 2-20 on my tv are digital. So if I'm doing PiP I cannot see all the major affiliates in my right window. It's going to be a problem and I really hope Sony can somehow fix it.

So...then....that would work.

I don't use PIP much, but I put the SD versions in my favorites (even though I never actually tune them in) simply so I can see them in PIP. Once they're gone, the 480i HR10 output should work.

PIP is old school, anyway, just like live TV is old school. Since Tivo, I have rarely watched TV "live" since 1999 (edit: I guess that doesn't count the 4 month gap between me getting HD and getting a HD Tivo). But PIP has its place. I guess once 2009 comes they will just have to put dual tuners in the sets to get PIP, just like they do for SD now.

So...then....that would work.

I don't use PIP much, but I put the SD versions in my favorites (even though I never actually tune them in) simply so I can see them in PIP. Once they're gone, the 480i HR10 output should work.

PIP is old school, anyway, just like live TV is old school. Since Tivo, I have rarely watched TV "live" since 1999 (edit: I guess that doesn't count the 4 month gap between me getting HD and getting a HD Tivo). But PIP has its place. I guess once 2009 comes they will just have to put dual tuners in the sets to get PIP, just like they do for SD now.

I love twin view it is going to be awesome during football season.

I dont see them putting dual digital tuners in sets as it will drive up the cost. I dont think there is a big enough market that will have people clammering for PIP. But who knows. It would be prety cool to have HD split screens.

New Firmware

I received a memory stick from Sony today with a firmware update for my 55" KDF-WF655 that I bought last October. I had problems with the cablecard not receiving some digital cable channels.

My original firmware was ver 1.23 (Aug 2004)
The new firmware is ver 1.72 (May 24, 2005)

The instructions that came with it said to have the set turned on to a normal channel, insert the stick and wait thru a few screens. After the turner re-booted itself, the message came up "remove memory stick."

What can I say... It works just fine. Thank you Sony for deciding to send me the update.

Mullin,
I have the same TV, Oct. 04 build, and am interested in the firmware up-date. How do you check which version you have and what did you have to do to get Sony to send the up-date stick straight to you? I am not currently using a cable card, have the cable plugged straight into the back of the set and get all of the free HD channels, but am thinking about going the card route. Figured I would go ahead and up-date the firmware to correct the card problems before I get them. :D

Anyone from the SOCAL region want to come down and install the filter on my TV plus ISF calibrate it? PM me with credentials. Thanks!

I thought a technician had to come out to install an update. Pretty slick using the memory stick. Anyway, could you copy the Memory Stick? What was the file format?

I wish that Sony would put updates for the TV firmware on the website for download. Any reason they should not?

New Firmware

I received a memory stick from Sony today with a firmware update for my 55" KDF-WF655 that I bought last October. I had problems with the cablecard not receiving some digital cable channels.

My original firmware was ver 1.23 (Aug 2004)
The new firmware is ver 1.72 (May 24, 2005)

The instructions that came with it said to have the set turned on to a normal channel, insert the stick and wait thru a few screens. After the turner re-booted itself, the message came up "remove memory stick."

What can I say... It works just fine. Thank you Sony for deciding to send me the update.

Can someone please re-post how to confirm/check the total lamp life in terms of hours for a 42WE655? Can't seem to remember which of the gazillion GW4 threads I saw it at. Also the total cycle times (turn on/off)? TIA!

Checking lamp hours on a GWIV:

With the TV off, Press Display - 5 - Volume+ - Power (in sequence - don't hold the buttons down).
Press Jump three times (top left of screen will display PANEL)
Press 2 nine times and at bottom left will be LampTM with the number of hours to the right of it. LampCT is the number of cycle times.

To get out of service mode, just press Power to turn the TV off.

Robert

I am the proud new owner of a KDF-60WF655 and a Sony Dream DAVFX100W for DVD and surround in a box. Will be using DishNetwork's 942 receiver for HD DVR.

I wanted to pose a question to all of you and I am sorry if it was answered earlier on in the thread because I couldn't find it.

I am trying to figure out how to run both the Dish 942 and Sony DVD into the 60WF655 tv via HDMI (I realize that the tv has only one HDMI input.) Since you are all so knowledgeable, I hoped that one of you would be able to help me. I have heard of a "switcher", but I am worried that the quality of the feeds will be reduced if I run them both into a switch box rather than having only the satellite with HDMI and living with the DVD via component.

Any ideas?

Thank so much in advance!

--Drago

Robert, u da man! hehe Thanks!

About the tuner problem:

Is this something to be concerned about with a 42WE655 WEGA model? Mine has a June 05 build date. I am thinking maybe it has something to do with missing QAM hdtv signals. But I am not sure, maybe charter is just not passing that HDTV channel thru QAM. But the weird thing is, when I do an AUTO PROGRAM, it finds those channels and adds it to the list. I am in SoCal, West Covina.

... I have heard of a "switcher", but I am worried that the quality of the feeds will be reduced if I run them both into a switch box rather than having only the satellite with HDMI and living with the DVD via component.

Any ideas?

Thank so much in advance!

--Drago

Drago88,

1) You'll gain nothing by hooking the DVD up via HDMI instead of component.
2) It will be more convenient to switch between inputs with the TV's remote than a switch box.
3) And the last, but most important reason not to use a switcher, you'll be able to calibrate the inputs for the DVD and satellite separately, since the optimum settings for one won't be the same for the other.

Robert

Drago88,

1) You'll gain nothing by hooking the DVD up via HDMI instead of component.
2) It will be more convenient to switch between inputs with the TV's remote than a switch box.
3) And the last, but most important reason not to use a switcher, you'll be able to calibrate the inputs for the DVD and satellite separately, since the optimum settings for one won't be the same for the other.

Robert
awesome
thanks so much for the immediate response Robert
any idea how much PQ will i be sacrificing by going with component for DVD?

awesome
thanks so much for the immediate response Robert
any idea how much PQ will i be sacrificing by going with component for DVD?

drago88,

None whatsoever, as stated in reason #1. The only advantage to HDMI for DVD use is one cable instead of three, unless it's an upconverted signal on the HDMI output only and IF (and that's a big if) the DVD player's upconversion is better than the TV's (very very unlikely).

Robert

drago88,

None whatsoever, as stated in reason #1. The only advantage to HDMI for DVD use is one cable instead of three, unless it's an upconverted signal on the HDMI output only and IF (and that's a big if) the DVD player's upconversion is better than the TV's (very very unlikely).

Robert
sweet
thanks bro

So I'm thrilled, because I jumped from a 27" to this monster of a TV. Got a really good price too, so that's even better. But, I'm pretty new to this whole scene.

I hooked up my DVD player which, admittedly, is outdated, and watched some Finding Nemo last night. I was impressed by the size of the picture, but less so with the quality. I did some quick adjusting with the brightness and sharpness, but my main concern is a somewhat "jaggy" looking picture. It looks a little too "blocky" at times and this was helped by using the PRO mode and lowering the sharpness, but I also made it appear almost soft & blocky at the same time.

Now, the DVD player only has composite (yellow video cable) and S-Video outputs, and I'm currently using S-Video. Is this the main issue (non-component) or is there a few more settings to play with that will make it more "sharp yet smooth". I am looking for a picture with crisp, well-defined edges and less grain.

As a corollary, anyone have a good, inexpensive DVD player they use and enjoy with the GWIV's?

Any help would be appreciated!

Could someone please post how to check firmware version in a GWIV? Thanks in advance.

Now, the DVD player only has composite (yellow video cable) and S-Video outputs, and I'm currently using S-Video. Is this the main issue (non-component) or is there a few more settings to play with that will make it more "sharp yet smooth". I am looking for a picture with crisp, well-defined edges and less grain.Go into your DVD player setup and make sure it is set up for 16:9 (widescreen) output. If that's not configured properly, it could affect your picture quality.

Congrats on the new TV! :D

Component will without question give you better picture quality. I have a JVC progressive scan that I paid 75.00 for that works great.But just using the yellow composite wont do much for you. I would definately go get a progressive scan or upconverting DVD player. A family member of mine just picked up a Cyberhome Upconverting player from walmart for 69.00 and it connects with HDMI. I wouldnt say the picture was any better than her progressive scan that she had before but it did look good.

Hi, I have a new 50WE655 (love it) but it has an odd color tint to it. You can see the tint both while it's on and off. It is very subtle, but noticable on various scenes. I tried to capture it with my camera, but it is too subtle for it, however, it stands out much more in person. So instead, I have mocked up what it looks like in this attached drawing.

The green tint is on both the top left and bottom right, though in my image I only did the top left one. And the colors are far less saturated on the screen, but deep deep purple, and deep deep green is what I see. Otherwise it looks amazing.

Any ideas?

Kdf-60wf655 arrived yesterday and I bought the Sanus SFV65s lowboy glass stand. I have about 2 inches from the back of the tv to the wall. My wife is worried that the tv is front-heavy and will fall over in an earthquake (we live in the san francisco bay area). Has anyone figured out a way to earthquake-proof the 60WF655?

All advice is appreciated.

Thanks.

--D

Kdf-60wf655 arrived yesterday and I bought the Sanus SFV65s lowboy glass stand. I have about 2 inches from the back of the tv to the wall. My wife is worried that the tv is front-heavy and will fall over in an earthquake (we live in the san francisco bay area). Has anyone figured out a way to earthquake-proof the 60WF655?

All advice is appreciated.

Thanks.

--D

I have a non-Sony stand and used a very wide and long cable tie which I threaded through the recess at the bottom of the display (made for the Sony strap/stand) and looped through the cable support on my stand. There are many ways you can do similar things with different materials. Even nylon cord which would be easier to handle, could be used. Just a little imagination is all it takes.
There are also velcro systems you can buy the attach little adhesive mounts on the sides of your TV and then down directly to the to small adhesive mounts on the shelf.

I have a non-Sony stand and used a very wide and long cable tie which I threaded through the recess at the bottom of the display (made for the Sony strap/stand) and looped through the cable support on my stand. There are many ways you can do similar things with different materials. Even nylon cord which would be easier to handle, could be used. Just a little imagination is all it takes.
There are also velcro systems you can buy the attach little adhesive mounts on the sides of your TV and then down directly to the to small adhesive mounts on the shelf.


Thanks - I just called Magnolia in San Ramon, CA and they said that due to the sheer size and weight of the set, it would have to be a 7.0+ magnitude quake for it to tip - at that point I'd be more worried about my personal safety

Thanks - I just called Magnolia in San Ramon, CA and they said that due to the sheer size and weight of the set, it would have to be a 7.0+ magnitude quake for it to tip - at that point I'd be more worried about my personal safety

Did you buy at Magnolia? They are great! So did I, in Santa Clara. And carried it in the back of my SUV 150 miles to Clovis.

I have the 55WF.

Well, The '89 quake was 7.1 and most of us survived.....that was 1989.BHD :)

I still like the improvised strap, it can still slide some on glass.

I've had my KDF-60WF655 for about 4 months now and I really love this thing. I currently have a Panasonic DVD-CP57 progressive DVD player connected through component and a Motorola DCT6200 HDDVR connected to HDMI via a DVI-HDMI Monster cable.

I'm getting :confused: over whether or not to get an upconverting DVD player. I like what I've seen with the Zenith DVB318 online. I'm willing to put the HDDVR through component video (truth be told the analog channels suffer through the digital conversion even though the HD channels are awe inspiring). I'm looking exclusively at DVI players as I already have a $120 DVI-HDMI cable. I won't look at Sony DVD players (I had a 560D and I'm still pretty pissed). I don't need SACD and I'm keeping the Panny in the loop because it has a 5-disc changer for lower quality transfers and CDs - plus it has a Faroudja.

Can members with a similar display and an upconverting DVD player give me any feedback on whether its worth it or not? Thanks!!!

FYI, my full setup is, KDF-60WF655 display with a Motorola DCT6200 HDDVR (HDMI Monster DVI-HDMI cable), Panny DVD-CP57 (with Faraoudja - component Monster THX cables), Panny SC-HT05 surround sound, and an Emerson VCR (does model really matter? :)) Luckily I just picked up a Logitech Harmony 688 universal remote which is TOTALLY worth the $125 I paid for it.

After an experiment this last weekend I cangt say I noticed any difference in picture quality at all with an upconverting player with hdmi vs. progressive with component. Quality of the player may make a difference though as we were using a "cyberhome" from walmart. Anyway it was 69.00 and I would say it had a very solid picture but not any different than my JVC progressive. Hope that helps...at least it tops!

I am getting a KDF60WF655 and have a question about what to do with a large/heavy center channel speaker - Onix Rocket RSC200 - 46 lbs & 12" high. The speaker is too tall for most tv stands I've seen. I'd like to put it on top of the Sony, but am worried about its weight and don't know a good way to place it securely on top. I'm also concerned about such a heavy item sitting on top of the tv.

Any suggestions, comments or warnings?

I have a smilar problem. I am planning to get an JLB EC35. A slesman suggested to put a shelf on the wall behind the TV, sitting just above the TV as far as height is concerned. That is what I am planning to do, I don't know whether it will work for you

Castaban,

Thanks for the suggestion, but the TV will be sitting about 3 feet in front of the wall. The speaker also has rear ports and should not be place very close to a wall.

Gene

It can be done on top, but I wouldn't advise it on a shaky floor or near curious little fingers. :o

Attached is a photo of a stand I bought from Circuit City for my heavy Polk center speaker:

Nice setup dave

Nice setup dave

That's the one! Except it looks like you dust once in a while. :o :o :o

Gentlemen,

The pics look great and it should fill the bill just fine. And I take it your tv's have had no problem with the weight.

Thanks for the info,
Gne

Daverj, joj057
How does that stand attach to the TV? Doesn't it void the warranty?

Daverj, joj057
How does that stand attach to the TV? Doesn't it void the warranty?

No, it sits on top. In the front there are short dowels that hang down to keep it from sliding, and the feet on the long legs in the back have sticky pads to keep the back in place. btw, I didn't take the sticky covering off the feet pads, so for me they just act as cushoning.

It's available on the Circuit City website in platinum and black... just search omnimount center speaker.

Here's another pic:

The flurry of posts from last night convinced me to run out and get one.

I no longer have to live me CCS on the floor.

Thanks everyone.

Another option on the XS is to simply wire directly into the pod speakers. They do a pretty good job as a CC speaker.

My new Samnsug DVD player gives me the option of sending a 720p or a 1080i signal to my KDF-60WF655. With this, or any device capable of sending both signals, which one is a better match for this TV?

I have the first generation Samsung 'HD' DVD player, and to me, the 720P option gives the highest detail picture.

I apologize in advance for my naivette, but I'm confused. You bought a DVD player that upconverts 480-rez content to 720 or 1080 format? Unless the scaler is vastly superior to the scaler in your display, what would be the advantage? It can't add resolution that is not there, and it will not be compatible with eventual HD disks, so I'm stumped as to why this would be of any value.

In re-reading my first post, I realize now that I should not have referred to it as an HD DVD player. We are too close (hopefully) to a real HD DVD player to use that term.

From what I've heard, the Faroudja chipset in the Samsung (and some other 'HD-up-converting' players) IS vastly superior to most displays. With that in mind, the idea is to let the better of the two up-converters do the work. The other bit of conventional logic is to keep the signal digital as much as possible to preserve the details that ARE there.

You are correct, that nothing can add resolution that's not there. But what an up-converter does is guess as to what that resolution was/should be and there are major differences between up-converting chipsets in how well they fill in the blanks. I've had 3 different HD TV's and all of them have a better picture using the DVI output than component. All of them were better on 720p, too.

There are many who swear there's no difference between component and DVI, and it may be true on their hardware, but on mine, it makes a huge difference.

I agree with MikewL, my Samsung up-converting DVD player looks better when set to 720p or 1080i output than when set to 480p. It's difficult to tell between the two higher resolution signals, but I wanted to know if there was a recommended one for this TV before I go nutty trying to adjust the TV settings only to find out one signal is better than the other for this particular TV.

Actually, let me put it in a more general and simple way:

If a device I have is capable of sending both 720p and 1080i signals to my WF series TV, is their one that is better suited to the WF hardware?

Actually, let me put it in a more general and simple way:

If a device I have is capable of sending both 720p and 1080i signals to my WF series TV, is their one that is better suited to the WF hardware?

Interestingly, my Oppo DVD player gives the best at 720p into the Sony. But with my satellite receiver I see virtualy no difference, and only use components with it anyway.
Logic says, 720p is closest to the native res. (768) and should work best.

If a device I have is capable of sending both 720p and 1080i signals to my WF series TV, is their one that is better suited to the WF hardware?

My subjective eyes tell me that 720p is better.
:D

Thanks guys! Now it's a matter of trying to tune this thing...

Can anyone offer some helpful tweaks / set up tips for a Sony KDF 50" WE? I just got mine this week and I realize the default settings don't do it justice. I was hoping some of you gurus could offer some advice on settings. Thanks!!

System set up: Sony 50" connected to a Pioneer 1015TX receiver via monster cables, and Panasonic S77 up-converting DVD player, only 3 speakers (front L/R and center --- JBL E80s and EC35).

Thanks again!!

Hey guys,
I appologize if this has been discussed but there are over 3000 posts....so here goes.
Is there any way that the 50 inch model (that is currently being replaced by the A10) could be better? I know the blacks are supposed to be better due to the Iris on the A10s but the Iris worries me a bit with its dynamic changes that seem to be noticeable while you are viewing the set.
Anyways, here in Canada, they are clearing out all old models before bringing the new ones so I need your assistance.
Thanks
Take Care,
Tec :)

I know the blacks are supposed to be better due to the Iris on the A10s but the Iris worries me a bit with its dynamic changes that seem to be noticeable while you are viewing the set.

Tec :)

Maybe Sony should have used the neutral density filter some have installed with good results. Maybe they were afraid this forum would sue them.... :D

I am trying the filter this weekend. I like the idea of fewer moving parts anyway.

Actually, let me put it in a more general and simple way:

If a device I have is capable of sending both 720p and 1080i signals to my WF series TV, is their one that is better suited to the WF hardware?
I agree with Mike (thanks for the DVD explanation, BTW). In my case its a XS (but the WF is pretty similar) and a HR10-250 Tivo, but to me, 720 looks better. And I will qualify that by saying that there is less aliasing along diagonal lines with 720 than with 1080.

According to the TP on HDNet, the frequency response at 720 is about 6 MHz, and about 6.8 MHz at 1080, making 1080 theoretically higher in rez than 720, even when scaled to 768 at the display. That is to be expected, because at 720 you are losing the rez CEILING of 1080 to a ceiling of 720, rescaled back to 768 in either case.

So that makes sense. But considering the actual resolution of raster-scanned images (all images other than a digital pattern generator), you won't really be able to see a difference in rez between 720 and 1080 anyway. And since I didn't shell out $3700 to watch test patterns, 720 it is, for me. The only time I could see a difference that comes to mind was on Conan, who has a curtain with tiny stars on it behind his set. The stars looked just slightly more distinct in 1080, but the added aliasing more than wipes out any real benefit even when you CAN see a difference.

Hey guys - I am trying to set up my new system and need some advice....I'm connecting my receiver (Pioneer 1015) to the TV (Sony KDF 50" WE) via component cables (i'm using a CableCard). I also need an audio connection too, right? I plan to use the optical out from the TV and connect that to the receiver. For the component cables, I am sending them from the "Monitor Out" ports on the receiver but to what component spot on the TV? Also, how can i tell if it is connected since the cable is connected from the wall to the TV and I can watch it on the screen in the first place? I need it to be going through the receiver, correct? Thanks for the advice guys.

...For the component cables, I am sending them from the "Monitor Out" ports on the receiver but to what component spot on the TV? Also, how can i tell if it is connected since the cable is connected from the wall to the TV and I can watch it on the screen in the first place? I need it to be going through the receiver, correct?...

You should have at least one input that accepts component on the display. I think it would be impractical if not impossible to send HD component back through the receiver, and the only thing you could do with it anyway would be to record it to some outboard device, so make that connection directly and skip the receiver.

Some receivers will switch video as well as audio, allowing you to use the A/V receiver as a router to feed different sources to your display (and speakers). Unless everything is compliant with everything else, and you have the biggest most expensive receiver, the outcome of that is usually not all that satisfactory. In my case, a lot of SD connections route through my receiver, but some (DVD, HD Tivo) must enter the display as different sources.

Typically, you can connect your display as an output FROM your receiver for video, as well as connecting an output from the display TO your receiver as a source, and you can make corresponding audio connections. Also, the audio output FROM the display TO the receiver is necessary for content received by the tuner in the display (if it is a true HDTV), and CableCard kind of implies that you need to do this.

I end up with two "hubs", one being the display and the other being the receiver, and the output of the receiver is just one more input on the display hub, which means some amount of subrouting to see and hear everything. Also, the monitor output of the display back to the receiver (for audio) becomes just one more input on the receiver, so for sources that connect video to the receiver first, I must select the receiver as an input on the display to get the video, and for video sources that originate in the display first, I must select the display as an input on the receiver to get the audio.

I also recommend abandoning the audio system in the display altogether (or use its speakers as center speakers for your receiver) and doing all audio directly through the receiver, but sometimes 5.1 isn't available through some receivers, so you will have to figure the best way for your situation.

Every system has its own sets of limitations, and you will have to figure out what you can and can't do pretty much on your own. Basically, unless your receiver handles all of your input and output needs, you will end up doing some switching at the receiver and some at the display. Start by diagramming all of your equipment on paper (or computer drawing program) including each available input and output, and then you can try stuff out to see what the best plan is. Start with the composite and audio baseband stuff first, and then add the component and optical stuff later.

Not only is this the best way to get the best setup, you learn a lot about the setup and have a diagram for later troubleshooting. My setup probably has over 120 separate cables, and having it on my laptop in a drawing program with multiple layers is about the only way I can keep track of it. Also, number your cables and keep a database of what goes where.

Does anyone know if there is a menu choice where you can choose the conversion level for channels? or other sources? When i change channels, the current conversion level (480p, 1080i, etc) is displayed for each channel but some vary. Can i select a common level (so some are up-converted to a higher level)? Thanks for any advice.

You should have at least one input that accepts component on the display. I think it would be impractical if not impossible to send HD component back through the receiver, and the only thing you could do with it anyway would be to record it to some outboard device, so make that connection directly and skip the receiver.

Some receivers will switch video as well as audio, allowing you to use the A/V receiver as a router to feed different sources to your display (and speakers). Unless everything is compliant with everything else, and you have the biggest most expensive receiver, the outcome of that is usually not all that satisfactory. In my case, a lot of SD connections route through my receiver, but some (DVD, HD Tivo) must enter the display as different sources.

Typically, you can connect your display as an output FROM your receiver for video, as well as connecting an output from the display TO your receiver as a source, and you can make corresponding audio connections. Also, the audio output FROM the display TO the receiver is necessary for content received by the tuner in the display (if it is a true HDTV), and CableCard kind of implies that you need to do this.

I end up with two "hubs", one being the display and the other being the receiver, and the output of the receiver is just one more input on the display hub, which means some amount of subrouting to see and hear everything. Also, the monitor output of the display back to the receiver (for audio) becomes just one more input on the receiver, so for sources that connect video to the receiver first, I must select the receiver as an input on the display to get the video, and for video sources that originate in the display first, I must select the display as an input on the receiver to get the audio.

I also recommend abandoning the audio system in the display altogether (or use its speakers as center speakers for your receiver) and doing all audio directly through the receiver, but sometimes 5.1 isn't available through some receivers, so you will have to figure the best way for your situation.

Every system has its own sets of limitations, and you will have to figure out what you can and can't do pretty much on your own. Basically, unless your receiver handles all of your input and output needs, you will end up doing some switching at the receiver and some at the display. Start by diagramming all of your equipment on paper (or computer drawing program) including each available input and output, and then you can try stuff out to see what the best plan is. Start with the composite and audio baseband stuff first, and then add the component and optical stuff later.

Not only is this the best way to get the best setup, you learn a lot about the setup and have a diagram for later troubleshooting. My setup probably has over 120 separate cables, and having it on my laptop in a drawing program with multiple layers is about the only way I can keep track of it. Also, number your cables and keep a database of what goes where.


TomCat - Thanks for that advice --- huge help!!! I have the TV / receiver up and running now but need to work on the tweaking and being able to consolidate remotes!! :) Thanks again

Does anyone know if there is a menu choice where you can choose the conversion level for channels? or other sources? When i change channels, the current conversion level (480p, 1080i, etc) is displayed for each channel but some vary. Can i select a common level (so some are up-converted to a higher level)? Thanks for any advice.

Also, I am only getting sound output on some of my channels (tested and is definitely related to the receiver). Anyone else ever encounter this? Not sure how it could be something i caused in messing with the settings since it only affects about 15 channels. thanks again, all.

First determine if it is the DD5.1 channels only.

As far as conversion, the only conversion done in the Sony is converting the received signal format to 768p. IOW, it rescales 1080i, 480i, and 720p automatically to 768p, which is more accurately just a pixel reinterpolation than a conversion. There is no need to convert anything or make a selection regarding this, as you can't improve upon the transmitted resolution.

Tomcat, good explanation of the receiver/display hub concept. I have my system set up very similar to yours.

The only addition is that I have my reciever set up with all video sources going to it so that simply pushing the source button on the receiver will change the audio and video (component/composite). I also have the DVI output of my DVD player going straight to the display. It's redundant, but it's REALLY handy for when a babysitter is in the house. I don't have to explain the whole system and they don't really care about the subtle degradation of component/composite going through the receiver. When I'm watching a DVD, I go through the trouble to switch the receiver and the TV to their 'best' source signals.

Not all DVD players/sources will allow dual outputs, but if yours does, the flexibility is very nice.

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone else was using a GWIV with the new Motorola 6412 phase 3 cable box, particularly through Cox cable? My display in particular is a 42".

When I hooked the cable box up to the display with the HDMI cable, the box really went wonky -- rebooting, turning itself off when the TV was off, and screwing up recordings. I switched back to component cables (and don't really see a quality difference, FWIW) and all the problems went away.

I know the box is new, but I was wondering if anyone else was using one and had seen something similar.

I bought the set as a floor model from a big box store and the remote supplied was incorrect. I need to get a replacement remote for the set; my main concern being that it will allow me to select different all the set's inputs. The Sony remote I have has buttons to select from inputs 1/2/3, 4, 5 but I also use inputs 6 & 7 (Component HD and HDMI inputs) and its a pain to get up to change these on the set. Suggestions?

Russellps- I havent used this company before but I did save the web addy when I was surfing one day. They carry replacement remotes for just about everything!
http://www.newtvremotes.com/Mfrs/Sony/SonyTV/RM-Y915.htm
Hope this helps.

I bought the set as a floor model from a big box store and the remote supplied was incorrect. I need to get a replacement remote for the set; my main concern being that it will allow me to select different all the set's inputs. The Sony remote I have has buttons to select from inputs 1/2/3, 4, 5 but I also use inputs 6 & 7 (Component HD and HDMI inputs) and its a pain to get up to change these on the set. Suggestions?

I suggest trying a Harmony remote control. It automatically sets the input depending on what you want to do, e.g., watch hdtv or dvd. Also the customizable commands can be set to select the input discretly without having to cycle through them with the TV/Video button. I don't know why they didn't feature all 7 inputs on the Sony remote. It's pricey, but worth it. I've got the 688.

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone else was using a GWIV with the new Motorola 6412 phase 3 cable box, particularly through Cox cable? My display in particular is a 42".

When I hooked the cable box up to the display with the HDMI cable, the box really went wonky -- rebooting, turning itself off when the TV was off, and screwing up recordings. I switched back to component cables (and don't really see a quality difference, FWIW) and all the problems went away.

I know the box is new, but I was wondering if anyone else was using one and had seen something similar.

I have the 6200 series, also from Cox. It seems to know when it's connected to my WF655 via DMI-HDMI because it flashes "d1" when the TV is powered on. It hasn't affected recordings. I'm going to buy an Oppo DVI DVD player next month and am going to put the Moto through component. My only concern is that the copy protection that is currently on DVI DVD players will show up on HDTV receivers and it won't play HD content through component. In that case I'll have to shell out another $300 or so for a DVI switch and new cables.

Funny thing, last night I was watching the DVD "The Aviator" and the display screen appeared for no apparant reason. This was Video 7 "via HDMI.

Anyone ever notice the digital caption issue I mentioned earlier??


Joe

Joe,

It's a known bug. Mine does it ocasionally. I figure I'll check with Sony and see if they corrected the problem (and have a software update available)....one of these days...

Russellps- I havent used this company before but I did save the web addy when I was surfing one day. They carry replacement remotes for just about everything!
http://www.newtvremotes.com/Mfrs/Sony/SonyTV/RM-Y915.htm
Hope this helps.
I suggest trying a Harmony remote control. It automatically sets the input depending on what you want to do, e.g., watch hdtv or dvd. Also the customizable commands can be set to select the input discretly without having to cycle through them with the TV/Video button. I don't know why they didn't feature all 7 inputs on the Sony remote. It's pricey, but worth it. I've got the 688.
Thanks guys. Those Harmony remotes look like they're the way to go to keep coffee table clutter to a minimum.

After going back and forth between Samsung HLR dlp's and Sony 3lcd's, I've decided I really like the picture on the 3lcd's.

I was at the Sony Store here in NY and loved the pic on the 60" KDF- but think the 55" would fit better in my room. If not, I would drop to the 50" A10 that just came out.

But...you guys like your KDF-55XS955's? Right? It seems like an "old" model. How old is the KDF-55XS955? Will it become archived soon?

The other choice for 55" is the a20 but I don't like the new A20 pic quality much and you lose an hdmi port with the A20.


Thx!

After going back and forth between Samsung HLR dlp's and Sony 3lcd's, I've decided I really like the picture on the 3lcd's.

I was at the Sony Store here in NY and loved the pic on the 60" KDF- but think the 55" would fit better in my room. If not, I would drop to the 50" A10 that just came out.

But...you guys like your KDF-55XS955's? Right? It seems like an "old" model. How old is the KDF-55XS955? Will it become archived soon?

The other choice for 55" is the a20 but I don't like the new A20 pic quality much and you lose an hdmi port with the A20.


Thx!
I LOVE my 55XS955. Got mine in January 2005. It isn't a particularly "old" model, but it will be (is being) replaced by the SXRD-based Sony sets (in September). However, those new sets will be more expensive and only (it seems) in 50 and 60 inch sizes.

55 was the perfect size, and the picture is amazingly good. I like it much better than the DLPs I've seen (probably because of DLP rainbow effect). While the SXRD technology seems to be an improvement on LCD RPs... I don't think I really will worry about it for a while... because my 55XS looks so damn good now.

-Terry

55XS955 is not an "old" model by any means. it was introduced in October 2004. it is the most "current" Sony LCD RPTV in 55" that includes advanced video options. the newer A10 & A20 Sony's replaced the WE 610 & WF 655.

55XS955 is not an "old" model by any means. it was introduced in October 2004. it is the most "current" Sony LCD RPTV in 55" that includes advanced video options. the newer A10 & A20 Sony's replaced the WE 610 & WF 655.

I believe all 55" and 60" WF and XS models were introduced at the same time. The XS having more advanced control options, and the better built-in speaker system.
Simply variations of the same theme.

I believe all 55" and 60" WF and XS models were introduced at the same time. The XS having more advanced control options, and the better built-in speaker system.
Simply variations of the same theme.


Totally agree with videoaddikt. Both of these sets are last years models, but to call them old is wrong. As stated above, the XS has advanced user menu controls but is basically the same as the WF. They both have the same guts but the screen and extra user menu items will give the XS an improved pc, not much but some. I went with the WF due to the cosmetic look of the set, but you really can't go wrong with either of these sets. They may not have the " lastest technology" out there, but if your waiting on that you will never buy a set while the rest of us are enjoying the amazing pictures of these "old sets". :)

Totally agree with videoaddikt. Both of these sets are last years models, but to call them old is wrong. As stated above, the XS has advanced user menu controls but is basically the same as the WF. They both have the same guts but the screen and extra user menu items will give the XS an improved pc, not much but some. I went with the WF due to the cosmetic look of the set, but you really can't go wrong with either of these sets. They may not have the " lastest technology" out there, but if your waiting on that you will never buy a set while the rest of us are enjoying the amazing pictures of these "old sets". :)

Actually, the only really NEW thing to come along, is the automatic iris in the A10..and the jury is still out as to how much it improves black level. Otherwise all these models share the same basic components.

Hi guys,

I've had the KDF-60WF655 for about a month now, and switched my digital cable box to the HD cable box about 3 weeks ago. My understanding is that these cable boxes upconvert the signals to 1080i if they're not HD. I've noticed a couple of things when viewing HD channels though, and wanted to see if anyone has seen this with their units:


Not able to switch to "Normal" wide mode (it's disabled). Not accessible even through the menu.
Display is stretched even on "Full" wide mode. I can see the channel logos (you know, the ones that are shown on the lower right corner) cropped. For example, when viewing the INHD2 channel, I can see the "INH" and part of the "D" logo, and sometimes there's some word put on the left side and part of the word is also chopped.


My wild guess is that the box is upscaling to 1080i and therefore the TV's "Normal" mode gets disabled?

But for #2, I'm guessing that either the cable box is stretching it too much or the TV is ALSO stretching it because it is on "Full" ??
Anyone has seen this problem before? what's a solution? or is my TV bad?

thanks in advance!

I would say your box and tv settings are not working together. Do you watch non hdtv in 4:3 or Full, Zoom, etc. Make sure you TV setting in the menu is sets the 4:3 to normal viewing (with bars on the sides) then see if it is still zoomed. If it is try looking into your cable box menus. You should be able to get it to go back to normal. I would say NO its def. not a TV issue. You might get more info on your cable box in the appropriate forum.

Yea, definitely a setup problem on one or both.

I have the Explorer 8000HD, and it has options for what type of output to send (720p/1080i/480p/etc). It will even pass-thru HD signals and upconvert SD signals to whichever HD resolution you prefer. You have to dig into it to find the menu for it, but it's there, do search on pass-through.

I have mine set to pass thru 1080i or upconvert to 720p and I keep the tv set to Normal and nothing ever gets stretched. Just black bars on the side when SD.

Thanks guys, I was able to change the settings on the box , I just couldn't find the settings for picture normal/stretching/etc, now everything is cool.

I'll do some digging about the pass-through, didn't know there was a setting for it.

Has anyone purchased this extended warranty? Does it cover the lightbulb? I've received three separate mailings from them regarding this.

No it does not. One reason it's quite a bit cheaper than others. Read more info under the 'extended warranty' topic. This is a service plan, not an extended warranty. And it underwritten by an insurance company, like all of them are...in case it was not obvious, many mfrs do not want to bother with extended warranties anymore, so they farm out service plans from 3rd parties.

Checking lamp hours on a GWIV:

With the TV off, Press Display - 5 - Volume+ - Power (in sequence - don't hold the buttons down).
Press Jump three times (top left of screen will display PANEL)
Press 2 nine times and at bottom left will be LampTM with the number of hours to the right of it. LampCT is the number of cycle times.

To get out of service mode, just press Power to turn the TV off.

Robert

Does anyone have experience with a "replace lamp" indicator light coming on? I am told that the light is pre-programmed to come on after a specified amount of time, presumably to get you to replace the lamp even if it is still operating at full capacity.

I also understand that you can re-set the lamp clock without replacing the lamp to get the "early warning" light to go off, and to allow you to replace the lamp only when it fades or goes out all together.

Has anyone heard of this or experienced this with a GWIV? If so, what happened? Can you re-set the lamp clock on these models? If so, how?

Thanks.

At last !!!!
For the last 3 days every component of my HT works perfectly. Outside cablebox,2nd new line to street box,2nd GWIV,2nd Q-box,2nd Cablecard and 2nd Denon DVD player are functioning properly - the only component I did not have to replace was the HDMI cable.

It has been a long strange & frustrating journey since Oct/04.

Just so you know!!

Hey guys. For the past few weeks I've noticed something odd. Everytime the fan starts/stops when shutting the tv on/off I hear an audible click. Is this something to worry about? It's kind of like the click my Sony receiver makes when turning on/off.

Everytime the fan starts/stops when shutting the tv on/off I hear an audible click. Is this something to worry about?

I also hear a click with my XS955. I think it's just a relay so I'm not concerned about it.

I was just wondering because it never did it before.

I hear it too, several seconds after the fan stops, I believe. I will likely start worrying when I don't hear it anymore... :)

I have a 50 inch, I was testing my new Harmony remote, when I started one of the sequences suddenly the screen went all blank and then in a matter of seconds it went all white (or bright grey). I turned it off and on, with its own remote, the problem persisted. Eventually I had to unplug it and wait a little bit and plug it back in. That fixed problem.
:eek:
Any idea what that might be? Should I worry about this? Did it happened to other people?

Hi,

I just received my service manual (thank you Sony), but there is *very* little info about service menu parameters. If I wished to build a new TV from discrete components, however, I'm way ahead of the game :-).

I'm thinking I got the wrong document set. I'm looking at a part number (front lower left) of 9-965-974-04. Could someone who has the correct manual clue me in?


Thanks!

Hey guys. For the past few weeks I've noticed something odd. Everytime the fan starts/stops when shutting the tv on/off I hear an audible click. Is this something to worry about? It's kind of like the click my Sony receiver makes when turning on/off.

This is how my TV shuts down. The screen goes dark grey for about 6 seconds before going completely black. Then exactly 2 minutes after this I hear 1 click and then a fainter click and the fan(s) shut off.

I think its completely normal.

Hi,

I'm lovin' my KDF42WE655 but.....

I think I have a set up issue.... I read Tomcat's set up explaination and I'm still a bit confused...

My A/V receiver is a Pioneer 815 something or another (no hdmi/dvi) & DVD is Oppo Video.

I have the TV Optical out go to the receiver. I have a lip sync issue....

I have Oppo DVD Direct to HDMI on display... Optical Direct to Receiver.... Lip sync issue...

I'm not very technically inclined....

Thanks for help...



Joe

Typically, you can connect your display as an output FROM your receiver for video, as well as connecting an output from the display TO your receiver as a source, and you can make corresponding audio connections. Also, the audio output FROM the display TO the receiver is necessary for content received by the tuner in the display (if it is a true HDTV), and CableCard kind of implies that you need to do this.


If I understand TomCats description, I need to send the video to the receiver and then back to the display?


Thanks, Joe

I just read another thread in the receiver forum about the same problem with a Sanyo TV. The original poster was pointed to the DVD player forum (he has Oppo also) apparently there is an issue with lip synch with them. Might try a search over there and see what you come up with. For what its worth ...I have all audio directly to the receiver...all video to the TV. Not for lip synch issues (havent had any) but to let the TV scale the video...Sony scalers are very good so why let the AVR do it? Unless you are using it for switching.

Thanks Couch Meister!

What do you think about the lip sync issue with OTA programming??

I need to feed the Video to the AVR and then back to the display??

If I do that, I can't remember if there is componet video out on the display?

I need to take a look at the manual...

Thanks again........

If I understand TomCats description, I need to send the video to the receiver and then back to the display?


Thanks, Joe
In the interest of clarity, you don't NEED to do that, and it won't solve lipsync issues anyway. I only do it for convenience. If you have a setup like mine which includes a newer XS with 8 inputs, and an older AV receiver with not enough inputs (and no digital video inputs) it makes sense to create a digital switching hub for HD Tivos, HD STBs, HD DVDs (eventually) at the display and a second analog switching hub at the AV receiver for all the analog stuff. Then take a receiver video output to an analog input on the display, and (assuming no DD) a display analog audio output to a input on the receiver so that you can both view and hear everything. A Harmony remote or equivalent then helps matters a lot.

When DD enters the picture, that complicates things. If your display won't pass it 100%, obviously each source needs to go directly to the AV receiver instead. If the display does pass it 100%, you can take a single optical out of the display back to the receiver.

My DVDR delays a frame (on E-E mode), but I have no significant lipsync issue, other than those incoming from occasional sources. I would try to see if you have lipsync issues with conventional audio hooked up following a similar path. DD isn't really ready for prime time, IMHO. Too many clocking issues, popping issues, and lipsync issues (not that this is definitely why you are having sync issues) plus it just isn't available on 95% of what I watch.

TomCat, slightly off tangent, do you know if the GWIV responds to a 768 input or only the usual 480, 720, and 1080 as listed in the manual?

I do not know. A 768 input would probably have to be from a computer...pretty non-standard for most GW applications. I do remember posts of folks who had good luck with connecting computers to a GW, but no indication of the rez format they were using. It should be pretty easy for the GW to accept 768, but Sony still might not accept that. Let us know when you find out for sure.

I was looking at a switcher/processors like the Lumagen, which will output 768. The company said some displays will not accept it even though it is the native resolution.
I would have thought some mfrs. of such devices would have found out by now.
I also hoped a cal tech, etc. would have tried it with a gen.
Maybe I'll shoot UMR a PM.Thanks, I will post my findings for sure.

I was looking at a switcher/processors like the Lumagen, which will output 768.

Videoaddikt....

Thanks for following up on this.

I would be very surprised if this gen of Sony allows 768p input, even if it's the native display rate. These sets seem to be designed to be simple TVs that display HD and SD material (broadcast, set top boxes, DVDs, video games) and not computer monitors.

Because there's no dedicated computer input, my logic tells me that the internal components are designed to work just with available consumer "TV video" inputs... 480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i.

If you find differently, please let us know.

Videoaddikt....


If you find differently, please let us know.

I certainly will. I am not very optimistic, but it would be nice to be surprised.

Help! I am the proud owner of a KDF-55WF655 set :) . My father just got a KDF-E55A20 (new version of the same set). I was try to help set it up for him this weekend and when it was all said and done I only have one question left that I cannot seem to resolve. I have skipped all the unused inputs and have just kept 4 (satellite) and 5 (DVD). But I have a pesty C3 tuner station that I cannot remove from the input selection even though the station is hidden in the channel mode of the set up. On my set (55WF655), I channel fixed to Vid input 5 and it took care of the problem. I never have to go past the C3 station when flipping through my inputs. Can anyone help me remove this annoyance on the KDF-E55A20 set? My understanding is that the channel fix option has been removed from this new set and Sony support said I will have to live with it as there is no way to turn the tuner off or fix the set to one of the video inputs :( . Thanks in advance!!

wls--

Videoaddikt....

Thanks for following up on this.

I would be very surprised if this gen of Sony allows 768p input, even if it's the native display rate. These sets seem to be designed to be simple TVs that display HD and SD material (broadcast, set top boxes, DVDs, video games) and not computer monitors.

Because there's no dedicated computer input, my logic tells me that the internal components are designed to work just with available consumer "TV video" inputs... 480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i.

If you find differently, please let us know.

So far, I have not been able to get mine to display 768p, or anything between 720p and 1080i. I can do 480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i, as well as 800x600p. I am most happy with 1280x720p, and with a little SM overscan adjustment, my Windows desktop looks good.

Gary

Thanks to all for suggestions....

Does anyone else have this KDF42WE655 Display and have lip sync issues??

Just purchased a 60xs955, after a month of reading these forums. Thanks to all of you.

Picked up my HD cable stb (component for now but waiting on my HDMI cable in the mail). Turned on Discovery HD Theater and almost cried. Son of a b_tch! What an amazing TV.

I am now convinced that there is no other way to watch sports than HD - it is almost unreal.

I have a Sony DVD/VCR combo, the SLV-D500P, and I wanted to ask whether you guys use the progressive capabilities of your DVD players or simply let the TV take the 480i and weave it into perfection? I think, after several trial runs, that enabling progressive on the DVD (which you can only do while the DVD is stopped and by manually pressing a button on the unit itself), makes the picture worse.

Also, do you guys have your cable stb/ sat stb output its HD in 720p or 1080i? I currently have the HD output at 720p (native, right?) and the SD output at 480i, although the stb (Motorola 6212) will convert the SD to 480p.

Last thing ... people who drop the kind of cash that we have on our Sony's aren't going to be using composite video too often. They need more high end inputs (HDMI, component). Even the new XBR's don't have any more HDMI or component inputs - what gives?

I will have my cable stb and soon to come DVD player utilizing HDMI, and the xbox 360 is suppose to offer an HDMI dongle - will I have to switch cables according to what I want to watch? I would stick 4 HDMI's on every new set, and at least 3 component inputs.

I have a Sony DVD/VCR combo, the SLV-D500P, and I wanted to ask whether you guys use the progressive capabilities of your DVD players or simply let the TV take the 480i and weave it into perfection?
Iamthewolf = 55XS955 Owner
I "simply let the TV take the 480i"

Also, do you guys have your cable stb/ sat stb output its HD in 720p or 1080i? I currently have the HD output at 720p (native, right?) and the SD output at 480i, although the stb (Motorola 6212) will convert the SD to 480p..

I have the TWC SA8300 set to 720P only.

I have a Sony DVD/VCR combo, the SLV-D500P, and I wanted to ask whether you guys use the progressive capabilities of your DVD players or simply let the TV take the 480i and weave it into perfection? I think, after several trial runs, that enabling progressive on the DVD (which you can only do while the DVD is stopped and by manually pressing a button on the unit itself), makes the picture worse.

Also, do you guys have your cable stb/ sat stb output its HD in 720p or 1080i? I currently have the HD output at 720p (native, right?) and the SD output at 480i, although the stb (Motorola 6212) will convert the SD to 480p.


Congrats on your purchase!

The 60XS955 is fixed at 768p, which is above 720p but below 1080i... so I put everything to 1080. To be honest, I really can't find any difference switching between the two, but your milage may vary.

As for what to set your DVD player... many people, myself included, have confirmed that the de-interlacer on standard DVD players doesn't do the trick as well as the de-interlacer in the TV and it's "Digital Reality Creation" function, so set that player to "interlaced" and find the magic spot in the TV's DRC menu. People with quality DVD players (i.e. Denon) should set them to "progressive", and upconverting DVD players should go to 720p or 1080i.

Lastly, don't expect much of a difference switching from component to HDMI. A short component run with quality cables should look exactly the same as HDMI.

BTW, according to UMR, the GWIV (for example) will only respond to the standard inputs of 480, 720, and 1080i. Not it's native screen resolution of 768.

I think it up scales or down scales to 768 to match the LCD 's.

I've got a Cox Moto6412 via component and I've been running at 1080i. My only problem with running at 720p (or 480p for that matter) is relying on the Moto to do de-interlacing. However, 720p material being upscaled to 1080i through the Moto is also not ideal.

What would be best is if the Moto output 1080i at 1080i and 720p at 720p without having to change the settings. Also, and I don't know if others have seen this, but my local channel's digital broadcast on the networks HD channel looks downright blurry. I'm convinced they're scaling a 480i/p 4:3 source to 720p to broadcast and then the box is scaling that up to 1080i. Or maybe I'm just paranoid. Analog over the Moto is poor to quite poor.

I've got an Oppo going through HDMI at 720p. I want the Oppo to do the de-interlacing and have experienced none of the glitches that some have seen with non-Sony displays. I did tune the resolution on the Sony at 1080i using the Oppo and applied those settings to the Moto 1080i signal and it looks pretty darned close.

Exactly.

If the stb would simply output the 1080i broadcasts at 1080i, and the 720p broadcasts at 720p, I would be much happier. Based upon your statements, I will give 1080i a whirl and see how it compares to ouput at 720p.

As for the local HD broadcasts through cable, all of the non-HD material is scaled to HD format, and it looks horrible. However, when HD material is actually being broadcasted, ie... Monday Night Football, then I get a true HD (immaculate) picture.

Question, how do I clean the screen of my set? My son has put his little hands on there and left some nice smudges.

Question, how do I clean the screen of my set? My son has put his little hands on there and left some nice smudges.

I do as the manual indicates. Mixture of mild detergent and water (very small amount of detergent), dampen a soft cloth and wipe down the screen. Then wipe with cloth dampened in water only, and finally dry with a clean soft cloth.

Never use abrasive paper towels or any glass cleaners. I have a neighbor that nuked his Samsung with windex. Cost him 1K to fix it.

wls--

Possible CableCARD hardware issue

Just an update - I think my June 05 build 42" WE655 is indeed exhibiting this problem. My cablecard was installed last Saturday. Everything worked fine until yesterday afternoon when the channels suddenly disappeared. Today at around late morning, the channels came back again. Who did you guys contact when you got the CC firmware update thru memory stick? I'd also appreciate if someone can tell me the problem description that was referenced during your call to sony support. Thanks in advance!!!

Sony contacted me today. After a few minutes of talking to the service advisor, he concluded that there is indeed at firmware upgrade via memory stick. He said he will send a technician to install the firmware upgrade for me. If this does not work, he will again send a technician to replace a circuit board. Wow! I thought Sony's after sales service is pretty bad? Hopefully this fixes my missing channels issue.

Congrats on your purchase!

The 60XS955 is fixed at 768p, which is above 720p but below 1080i... so I put everything to 1080. To be honest, I really can't find any difference switching between the two, but your milage may vary.

As for what to set your DVD player... many people, myself included, have confirmed that the de-interlacer on standard DVD players doesn't do the trick as well as the de-interlacer in the TV and it's "Digital Reality Creation" function, so set that player to "interlaced" and find the magic spot in the TV's DRC menu. People with quality DVD players (i.e. Denon) should set them to "progressive", and upconverting DVD players should go to 720p or 1080i.

Lastly, don't expect much of a difference switching from component to HDMI. A short component run with quality cables should look exactly the same as HDMI.


With an Oppo DVD player my PQ is noticeably better at 720p than 1080i. With my satellite receiver, it does not seem to make a difference. For that matter, with Sat. it does really matter much if I use components or HDMI.

See comments below...

Just purchased a 60xs955, after a month of reading these forums. Thanks to all of you.

-snip-

Also, do you guys have your cable stb/ sat stb output its HD in 720p or 1080i? I currently have the HD output at 720p (native, right?) and the SD output at 480i, although the stb (Motorola 6212) will convert the SD to 480p.

I have the HD Tivo from DirecTV. It's set to output at 720p via HDMI, and everything looks great. Haven't tried 1080i, but I figured that the box would be better at down converting than it would be at up converting.

-snip-

I will have my cable stb and soon to come DVD player utilizing HDMI, and the xbox 360 is suppose to offer an HDMI dongle - will I have to switch cables according to what I want to watch? I would stick 4 HDMI's on every new set, and at least 3 component inputs.

Unless HDMI support has been announced just recently, the Xbox360 will only have component output for HD in the US.

Hi all,
On the new Sony GW5 thread some owners have noticed "blotches" that are perhaps one inch around or more on the screen. It seems that dust has been the possible culprit. Have you noticed any such blotches on the GW4 and if so, what did you(s) do?

Thanks
Take Care
Craig

When I tried to turn on my 42we655 today the green power light flashed green for a very long time (60 sec?) then came on steady green, but there was no picture or sound on any input. The screen was totally dark as if the power as off. Same thing happened when I tried to restart the TV several times. Then two hours later my son turned on the TV and it worked fine. I bought it just 27 days ago, so I have the right to swap at the store (BB). Any clues as to what happened? Should I swap for a new TV?

This happend to me tonight, anyone know what the cause/solution is?

Stryker I am going to reply to this mainly to top this for you as I havent had this problem. It sounds Like the bulb going bad to me. I would definately do a swap on the set if possible vs. replacing just the bulb just in case there is another problem causing the bulb to fail. It most likely is just the bulb but if I was within the return time frame I would go that route. Good luck and let us know what happens.

Well it's odd. I went back 15 mins later and it came right on with no problems. It hasn't happend since. I have no idea what happend.

...It sounds Like the bulb going bad to me. I would definately do a swap on the set if possible vs. replacing just the bulb just in case there is another problem causing the bulb to fail. It most likely is just the bulb but if I was within the return time frame I would go that route...

I agree. Mine did this once about a month ago, and then never did it since. Last week (at the 11-month mark) the bulb blew :eek: . Sony Fed-Ex'd me a no-charge replacement in two days.

(Now going OT...) So, I hooked up my old 36" XBR and caught up on some old SD stuff on my Tivo. And you know what? It gave me a new appreciation for CRTs. The LCD's and such have gorgeous pictures, no scan lines, high rez, etc., but there is just something to be said for CRTs in that to my eye the picture just seems more 3-D than any other kind of display, all of which have a certain "flatness" to them by comparison. But, I sure appreciated the 60XS PQ once it was up and running again.
:)

I agree. Mine did this once about a month ago, and then never did it since. Last week (at the 11-month mark) the bulb blew :eek: . Sony Fed-Ex'd me a no-charge replacement in two days.



Out of curiosity, TC did you have to resort to much re-tweaking from original settings, or have you been tweaking it periodically to compensate for some lamp degradation over time, etc. ? And how many hours did you get out of the lamp? Sorry to hit you with all these questions, but it would be nice to learn from another's experience.
Did Sony request the old lamp be returned? Jeezz, I can't stop myself!! :D

Darn you Stryker! I replied I havent had that problem with my set and low and behold....last night I had the same thing happen! My TV has less than 400 hrs on it too =( Oh well...I am going to call Sony today and have them send me one so that I can have one if it does go out on me. I also have CC 5 year extended so maybe I will call them first....hmm. Good to have that peace of mind I guess.
As far as CRT goes I agree with you about the picture but they are sooooo small... :D

This happend to me tonight, anyone know what the cause/solution is?

Stryker - The solution to this problem was to unplug the set for a few minutes then plug it back in. Problem solved and it did not re-occur. A simple hard boot to the system.

Out of curiosity, TC did you have to resort to much re-tweaking from original settings, or have you been tweaking it periodically to compensate for some lamp degradation over time, etc. ? And how many hours did you get out of the lamp? Sorry to hit you with all these questions, but it would be nice to learn from another's experience.
Did Sony request the old lamp be returned? Jeezz, I can't stop myself!! :D

No retweaking. I did not discern any lamp degradation, and when I put the new one in, things looked identical to how they did just before I heard that fateful "pop" two days earlier. I never got into maintenance mode to check the hours, but I figure I was pushing about 3000, since I usually turn it on whenever I'm there whether watching directly or not, and I have a tendency to fall asleep and leave it on all night a couple times a week (got to train myself to use the sleep timer).

Sony only needed a faxed receipt, so If you are close to the warranty date (I was 5 weeks away) it might be wise to have a "bulb failure". Just tell the Sony tech person that you heard a loud pop, the screen went dark, when you power it up the green light flashes for about 30 seconds and then the lamp light comes on. Obviously they are not going to buy this more than once.

Thanks, TC! It seems many fail in the 3-4K hours. About half what Sony says should happen. So it's good info to keep in mind.

Yeah, the 8k is probably based on a lab experiment where they never cycled the set on or off, just held their breath until it finally blew.

Ominous loud transient fan noise

My 60WF655 has started doing something new recently. When I turn the TV on,
the fan noise is loud (sounds like higher RPM and louder too) for a few seconds.
After that, it sounds as if the fan slows down and runs quieter.

It did not do this before when I powered on the TV.
It used to have a uniform, smooth, low noise. I also tend to think that
the fan is a notch louder all the time now, but that maybe just because
I am more attuned to that noise now.

Is this a sign of worse things to come? If you had this symptom on your TV,
did it foretell a dying fan / lamp / power supply? Is this indicative of lack of
ventilation (My TV is 6 inches away from the wall. It is not in a corner. Open space
on both sides for about 8 feet.)

Should I vacuum the vents in the back of the TV?

Thanks!
-jjsc

I think this is normal. Check your altitude & set & check what you have yours set on. I put mine on high altitude in summer , Low in winter because I am below 5000 Ft elevation.

I didn't even know there was an altitude setting LOL...Mine is as it came from the factory. Im near Cleveland, OH..

I'm pretty sure my fan runs a little faster at start up and gradually slows down..I'm not too concerned..the tv functions great.

Steve

Interesting Occurences...

Ok, I have a 55WF655 which has been running just fine...

Lately an interesting thing is happening. I use the previous channel button (JumP) to go between two channels...nothing real exciting there, but I find there are times when I push the button, the TV turns off, yes that's right! Sometimes the green (power on) LED blinks (green) other times it goes red. This has happened a few times now. I am using an MX-700 remote, but that's the same remote I have been using since January....

Any Ideas?

I'll try using the Sony remote, for a while and see if this happens, at least I'll rule out the remote...

I think the 60 XS has been discontinued. It was never discounted more than about 75 bucks below what it sold for a week after it debuted, either. RIP, old friend.

I think the 60 XS has been discontinued. It was never discounted more than about 75 bucks below what it sold for a week after it debuted, either. RIP, old friend.
I don't want to pollute this thread but also don't want to search an hour but was just curious are you guys who bought the 60xs like me happy or are you going to trade up to the newer sxrds or other? I think at the time it was the best bang for the buck especially since I saved about a grand from retail when it was first released. i haven't kept up on the new ones since (i have been happy and don't even use it all that much) but was just curious if the last year made that big of a difference. I was surprised to see sxrds something like 10K cheaper than last yr and right around the price of the xs models. Did we get screwed?

I have a 60xs and am very happy.

When I purchased the TV a year ago, I knew it qould be surpassed quickly--this is true of all electronics!

But the TV is outstanding. I don;t know what bells & whistles the sxrds might offer, and don;t really care. Watching HDTV on my set is still a jaw-dropping experience. I've had the TV almost a year and it's still fantastic. Looking back, I wouldn't change a thing.

Did Sony ever release a firmware update for the KDF-60xs955. In particular to fix the random OSD appearances?

I don't want to pollute this thread but also don't want to search an hour but was just curious are you guys who bought the 60xs like me happy or are you going to trade up to the newer sxrds or other?

I'm happy with my 60XS. Great picture quality, no problems except the infrequent info pop-up...

In a year the sxrd owners will be asking the same question.

Now that my 55" WF655 is now over a year old (and out of warranty) I discovered a problem with the sound input.

I just bought a DVD player with HDMI output. The picture is excellent, but the only way I can get sound is thru the digital output to my 5.1 reciever. When I plug in the analog stereo cables to the jacks next to the HDMI input on the back of the TV, I get nothing - no sound - from the TV. I tried using the same analog output from the DVD player to another input on my receiver, and the analog sound output was just fine - exactly what you would expect. When I put the same cable back into the back of the TV next to the HDMI input, there is no sound coming from the Sony.

I have checked the menus - especially the sound area. Everything looks correct, the TV speakers are turned on and the volume is up.

Anybody out there have any idea what is going on?

From what I've been hearing the Sony GW TV's do not have a built in Dolby Digital Decoder and will pass the sound through on the digital out but cannot play it. When an HDMI cable is plugged in and it detects digital audio, it won't play any sound coming from an analog input (even the one associated with the HDMI input) which seems kind of silly to have it in the first place.

To remedy this you can just play it through your receive or switch your DVD player to component and use the analog sound.

Chris

Good article on HDMI here: http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/forum/showthread.php?p=20930#post20930

Strange the way Sony implements HDMI on our TVs. Before I had my new DVD player connected thru the HDMI, I had my Motorola digital cable box connected to the HDMI by using a cable that is DVI on one end (for the cable box) and HDMI on the other end (For the TV.) The audio was fed via the L/R audio cables next to the HDMI and everything worked fine. I guess the cable box didn't try to push audio thru the HDMI.

I have ordered an adapter to convert the HDMI to DVI, then will use my old DVI to HDMI cable to connect to the Sony. Perhaps that will solve the problem!

Strange the way Sony implements HDMI on our TVs. Before I had my new DVD player connected thru the HDMI, I had my Motorola digital cable box connected to the HDMI by using a cable that is DVI on one end (for the cable box) and HDMI on the other end (For the TV.) The audio was fed via the L/R audio cables next to the HDMI and everything worked fine. I guess the cable box didn't try to push audio thru the HDMI.

I have ordered an adapter to convert the HDMI to DVI, then will use my old DVI to HDMI cable to connect to the Sony. Perhaps that will solve the problem!


What kind of DVD player did you get, and how do you like it?
I have a 60WF and am looking for the best match on an upconverting player (leaning towards Sony S70 or Sammy 850).

Thanks

AM

I too would be interested to hear a good match for a DVD player (I have the 55WF) and since a lightning strike this Fall, my old JVC has never been the same.

midnight

Here's my little saga of trying to replace my excellent Toshiba DVD player. The Toshiba is 3+ years old, probably cost me over $350 when I bought it. Had it hooked up to the 55" Sony via component video cables - ok picture.

But I decided I wanted to see what an "upscaling" DVD player would do via the HDMI port - but I didn't want to spend much on a trial run. While at Walmart, I saw that they had the 'Cyberhome CHI-DVD655' player that did "upscaling" via the hdmi port. With the low price just under Eighty Bucks (including the HDMI cable) I bought it -- figured that with the 90-day return policy I couldn't go too far wrong (save the box and receipt - you probably will return the player!) Short review: the picture was superior in just about every way, but the audio required a tough choice AND the player itself is the lightest, flimsiest, slowest piece of "stuff" I have ever used. The audio choice is that you can EITHER have digital output of sound thru the HDMI (which my model Sony doesn't support) OR you can have video output thru the component video cables. In either case, the digital audio output to my receiver worked ok. So the problem is that if you want the superior HDMI video, you can only get sound thru a separate receiver - problematic for wives and children.

So I searched online and found another CHEAP DVD player at Costco.com: the Philips DVP642/37, also at just under Eighty bucks - plus shipping; no HDMI cable. Also a stunning picture from this box via HDMI. Had a lot of problems with the sound at first - absolutely NO digital audio output, but OK analog stereo output from the RCA cables. After spending quality time on the phone with Philips tech support, I asked if there was a newer firmware available and found that they did have an update. After downloading and burning the update to a CD, I installed the update to the DVD player. Now it will play digital audio OR analog audio -- but not both. You can choose via on-screen menus which.

I returned the Cyberhome to Walmart and am keeping the Philips. The Philips is a much superior construction (heavier plastic??) and operates much nicer. There is a chance that I will be able to download a newer firmware from Philips in the next few weeks that will address the sound issue, but I decided I can live with this for now.

I would bet that if I spent a couple hundred more for a DVD player I would be able to get the superior HDMI video AND both analog and digital audio at the same time, but I don't think I will. My thought is that HD DVD will be available at reasonable prices in another year, so why spend the big bucks on a machine that will be relatively less desirable in a short time. If money is no object, get a machine that has Farouja upscaling to HDMI output -- but if you want to go cheap, the Philips from Costco.com does the trick (with firmware updates.)

Happy Christmas

Greetings...

I have a 55WF and I ran the channel auto program the other day. I was looking to see if any new channels could be found...Well, the TV didn't like it and now decided it doesn't want two channels that were there before...of course they are stations I watch!

According to SONY tech support I should be able to simply have the channel I want on, go to "Digital Channel Add" and press "add" and the channel will be added...Well my TV doesn't work that way. If I press "add" the Tv goes into a long search mode...same as it does when you press "auto program" (except it doesn't look for analog stations).

Is there a simple way to get my lost channels back? I can add them as favorites, but that doesn't let me set a timer (to tune to that channel when the TV turns on...)

Does SONY service have a clue to how these sets work?

I too would be interested to hear a good match for a DVD player (I have the 55WF) and since a lightning strike this Fall, my old JVC has never been the same.

midnight

The Oppo Digital works great with my 55WF. HDMI output at 720p is very good.
You will lose the display's only HDMI input if you go that way. Fortunately, the components output of my Dish HD rcvr is as good as the HDMI output. IF not, I would have to use a switch.
BTW the components output of the Oppo sucks compared with many other progressive DVD players. So I only recommend it as an upconverting player.
I would stick with the latest Sony or Panasonic models if you don't go with Oppo.
But I would give an edge to the Oppo over the Sony N975P I had that broke. No experience with the Panasonic S77 or S97 which are highly rated along with the Oppo.
It's not HD, but with the best material can be quite striking.

NoPlasmaYet:

I think the Sony handles cable-tv channels differently than OTA. If your input source is cable, you can use the menu to show or hide any channel whether analog or digital. If it is OTA from your antenna, the only way I can get it to show the channel is by having the TV do the automatic "add digital" channels function.

The Oppo Digital works great with my 55WF. HDMI output at 720p is very good.
You will lose the display's only HDMI input if you go that way. Fortunately, the components output of my Dish HD rcvr is as good as the HDMI output. IF not, I would have to use a switch.
BTW the components output of the Oppo sucks compared with many other progressive DVD players. So I only recommend it as an upconverting player.
I would stick with the latest Sony or Panasonic models if you don't go with Oppo.
But I would give an edge to the Oppo over the Sony N975P I had that broke. No experience with the Panasonic S77 or S97 which are highly rated along with the Oppo.
It's not HD, but with the best material can be quite striking.

Addikt, thanks for the info. I think I've decided to get a recorder instead of just a player. I have some old VHS movies I'd like to archive of weddings, halibut fishing in Alaska and such. Also want to start making my own DVD home movies off my Mac.
<beat a dead horse>I wish there was more than 1 HDMI on this TV!<end beating of dead horse>

midnight

With the GWIV any quality component player should equal an upconversion player in the video department. I have had my GWIV for over a year and have auditioned many a players. Here is a little synopsis of the players I have auditioned:

Panasonic 97 tried both component and HDMI could not tell the difference in PQ.

Sony 975, component and HDMI with component offering better resolution in my eyes.

Sony 700 component only, very nice picture.

Pioneer 59AVi tried both component and HDMI with HDMI offering supreme resolution.

Denon 2200, component beautiful picture.

Sony 999ES, component beautiful picture

I will say that all these players performed excellent with the Pioneer 59AVi possibly a smidge better in the video department. Is it worth the price difference, well if you listen to SACD or DVD-Audio definitely. if not thats up to your wallet, but remember a pure digital connection is always a good thing. Oh yes I kept mine, but I also have the 2200, 999ES and the 700.

A quality player is always better than a cheap player.

Addikt, thanks for the info. I think I've decided to get a recorder instead of just a player. You might not be happy with the playback of some dvd recorders...

I've been very happy with my Pioneer DV-440 non-progressive player via Component with my KDF42WE655... When it came time for a recorder, I purchased a Pioneer DVR-531H RECORDER w/80gig HD and progressive playback...

I though.. ok, having the DVR-531 in the living room, I can use it for playback too, so now I can move the DV-440 back to the bed room and have a DVD player there also... Well... Um... NOPE!!! MAJOR differences... I'm keeping the DV-440 in the living room for playback...

See -> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=608917 especially post #2 where I mention about the 5th Element DVD...

Now, I'm not sure... new DVD "better" player for living room?? or just something really cheap for the bed room?? hmm...

Hello, I have owned a KDF55WF655 for almost a year now, ordered it thru my brother who works for sony on his employee discount. Did not get an extended warranty due to the way I purchased the set. Have heard that Sony will sell you an extended warranty if your set is within the one year manufactories warranty. Does anyone know if this is true and anything about these warranties. Have checked at SonyStyle.com and they are fairly inexpensive, about $230 for a 4 year warranty. Imagine that does not include bulb replacement but still not to bad.

Really like this set, by the way, and have no problems except the display popping up on DVDs and even that is very seldom. Have a DVPNS70H upconverting player thru HDMI and am VERY pleased with the picture. Use the optical audio from the player straight to my home theater receiver so no problems with the set not excepting the digital audio.

Happy New Years all.

Hello, I have owned a KDF55WF655 for almost a year now, ordered it thru my brother who works for sony on his employee discount. Did not get an extended warranty due to the way I purchased the set. Have heard that Sony will sell you an extended warranty if your set is within the one year manufactories warranty. Does anyone know if this is true and anything about these warranties. Have checked at SonyStyle.com and they are fairly inexpensive, about $230 for a 4 year warranty. Imagine that does not include bulb replacement but still not to bad.

Really like this set, by the way, and have no problems except the display popping up on DVDs and even that is very seldom. Have a DVPNS70H upconverting player thru HDMI and am VERY pleased with the picture. Use the optical audio from the player straight to my home theater receiver so no problems with the set not excepting the digital audio.

Happy New Years all.

Your display pop ups are ONLY when viewing DVDs? That's interesting. I thought it was universal irrespective of input. It appears that way on mine anyway.

The main diff between the Sony extended and others IS no bulbs included. That explains the price difference with others most pay around $400 for a 4 year plan.
Keep in mind, the one's sold on the Sony site are 'plans' and not true Sony extended warranties. They are underwritten by 'Service Net Solutions' Sony is only making them available, much the same way retailers offer similar ones.

Your display pop ups are ONLY when viewing DVDs? That's interesting. I thought it was universal irrespective of input. It appears that way on mine anyway.

The main diff between the Sony extended and others IS no bulbs included. That explains the price difference with others most pay around $400 for a 4 year plan.
Keep in mind, the one's sold on the Sony site are 'plans' and not true Sony extended warranties. They are underwritten by 'Service Net Solutions' Sony is only making them available, much the same way retailers offer similar ones.


Yep, the only time I have had the display pop up is when viewing a DVD. Am pretty sure it has not happened on any other source. The thing is, it has happened with my new player over HDMI and my old one using Component. Does not make much since.

The one positive about the extended warranty sold by Sony is that it is all in home service. If, for some reason, it needs to be shipped to be worked on then Sony, or the provider, pays for the shipping both ways....at least thats the way I read it for projection sets. I think I remember reading somewhere on here that you could call Sony and get a 'Sony' extended warranty but all warranties sold on the SonyStyle web-site are through 'Service Net Solutions'. Will give it a try and see what I can find out.

Yep, the only time I have had the display pop up is when viewing a DVD. Am pretty sure it has not happened on any other source. The thing is, it has happened with my new player over HDMI and my old one using Component. Does not make much since.

The one positive about the extended warranty sold by Sony is that it is all in home service. If, for some reason, it needs to be shipped to be worked on then Sony, or the provider, pays for the shipping both ways....at least thats the way I read it for projection sets. I think I remember reading somewhere on here that you could call Sony and get a 'Sony' extended warranty but all warranties sold on the SonyStyle web-site are through 'Service Net Solutions'. Will give it a try and see what I can find out.

Most any microdisplay would be serviced at home by any plan I would think. At least for a most popular sizes. (42"-70" ?)...

I shipped a Sony DVD player to their service depot in Texas, with the agreement they would send me a new one. Instead, they said they had 'run out' of new ones but said they could fix it if I would wait. They finally agreed to a refund 2 weeks later.
If the warranties sold by Sony allow you to cancel with a pro-rated refund, they might be good. As far as not replacing if a local tech can not fix it, and having to ship it to them instead..yuk....considering most modern displays are modular in construction, and therefore relatively easy to repair, I can't buy into the shipping thing.

Hey gang, I have a question that hopefully someone can help me with. I have a kdf-50we655 and just noticed something about the picture. There appears to be a spot on the screen, only noticable when the picture is dark, like in a dark scene or if there is nothing on the channel.. It is aproximately 2" in diameter and you really have to look but both me and my wife notice it.

Is it possible that this is dust that got on the mirror or lcd? It's not really noticable unless the screen is black..it almost looks like a smudge on the screen but it's not as I cleaned it and its definitely not on the outside of the screen..Any advice? Thanks in advance.

Steve

Hey gang, I have a question that hopefully someone can help me with. I have a kdf-50we655 and just noticed something about the picture. There appears to be a spot on the screen, only noticable when the picture is dark, like in a dark scene or if there is nothing on the channel.. It is aproximately 2" in diameter and you really have to look but both me and my wife notice it.

Is it possible that this is dust that got on the mirror or lcd? It's not really noticable unless the screen is black..it almost looks like a smudge on the screen but it's not as I cleaned it and its definitely not on the outside of the screen..Any advice? Thanks in advance.

Steve
It sounds like a dust spot. I had a tech come out about two weeks ago to clean the light engine on my KDF-42WE655 for the same problem.

It sounds like a dust spot. I had a tech come out about two weeks ago to clean the light engine on my KDF-42WE655 for the same problem.


Thanks for the response...I've come to the conclusion that its dust. At this point Im just gonna live with it..With my luck, the tech would make the situation worse than just a barely noticable smudge on a dark screen..

Thanks again.

Steve

Thanks for the response...I've come to the conclusion that its dust. At this point Im just gonna live with it..With my luck, the tech would make the situation worse than just a barely noticable smudge on a dark screen..

Thanks again.

Steve

I have one on my 55WF655 since day one. Its red and faint in the lower right corner. I just let it go, its not that bad and you really have to look for it on a dark picture. Besides, thats what the 5 year warrenty is for. :)

Hi Bluer, I have the 5 yr extended warranty..my concern is if a tech comes out and tries to clean it, it may wind up worse..not that bothersome at this point..thanks again for the reply.

Steve

Speaking of warranties...

Does anyone know what the list price of the KDF55WF655 was?

I'm considering the purchase of a Sony extended warranty and they base it on list price.

They have two type one is "point of sale" I believe that's the prices shown on the web page. The other you can purchase later for this set it would be $324 for three years. I'm not sure if that's worth it. The Sony rep I spoke to couldn't tell me what was (and wasn't covered).

Thanks

I've had my 42WE655 for about a year and a half now and I just turned on my TV tonight and noticed a 2" diameter faint red spot of discoloration that is very noticable when the sreen is dark...mainly black. When the screen is full of color, I don't see it as much, but if I look hard enough, it's there.

What's causing this? Is there something wrong with the LCD? Can I replace it?

Thanks.

I've had my 42WE655 for about a year and a half now and I just turned on my TV tonight and noticed a 2" diameter faint red spot of discoloration that is very noticable when the sreen is dark...mainly black. When the screen is full of color, I don't see it as much, but if I look hard enough, it's there.

What's causing this? Is there something wrong with the LCD? Can I replace it?

Thanks.

It's a dust blob somewhere in the optics; probably on one of the LCD panels. Have a technician come out and clean the optical block. I just had the same problem repaired on my 42WE655. The bad news is that we can expect this condition to repeatedly occur. At least I have an extended warranty...next time I'll watch what the tech does more closely so I can do it myself if needed. The service manual is completely worthless when it comes to explaining this procedure.

Is it possible that some sort of HDCP software in my 42WE655 is not allowing my to use a HDMI connection from my reciever to the TV.

My current set-up is Comcast 6412 DVR (DVI - out)>>>Sony Strda7100es (HDMI - in)>>>Sony Strda7100es (HDMI - out)>>>42WE655 (HDMI - in).

The picture tunes in for like 3 seconds. Then just flashes of light.

It's a dust blob somewhere in the optics; probably on one of the LCD panels. Have a technician come out and clean the optical block. I just had the same problem repaired on my 42WE655. The bad news is that we can expect this condition to repeatedly occur. At least I have an extended warranty...next time I'll watch what the tech does more closely so I can do it myself if needed. The service manual is completely worthless when it comes to explaining this procedure.

Hmmm...any idea what a service visit like that might cost? My TV's out of warranty. I have half a mind to open the unit up myself and see what I can do. Maybe some compressed air will clear the lense/LCD of dust... Anyone think this is a bad idea???

Drydahl-

Just a WAG, but I figure it'd be around $50-$100 for a tech to come accomplish the repair. If you read through this thread you'll see that some people actually had their light engines replaced because of this problem (AKA "crop circles"). IMHO that's just plain silly because it introduces the potential of screwing something up really badly...and it's just not necessary! If you do have a tech come out, make sure he doesn't want to charge you for a new light engine.

Oh yeah, check your PM's.

Speaking of warranties...

Does anyone know what the list price of the KDF55WF655 was?

I'm considering the purchase of a Sony extended warranty and they base it on list price.

They have two type one is "point of sale" I believe that's the prices shown on the web page. The other you can purchase later for this set it would be $324 for three years. I'm not sure if that's worth it. The Sony rep I spoke to couldn't tell me what was (and wasn't covered).

Thanks

I purchased the same set at a discount of about 20%, but I believe the MRSP was around $3200.

Speaking of warranties...

Does anyone know what the list price of the KDF55WF655 was?

I'm considering the purchase of a Sony extended warranty and they base it on list price.

They have two type one is "point of sale" I believe that's the prices shown on the web page. The other you can purchase later for this set it would be $324 for three years. I'm not sure if that's worth it. The Sony rep I spoke to couldn't tell me what was (and wasn't covered).

Thanks

Are you speaking about the extended warranties on the Sony website? Those are only sold by Sony. They are underwritten by Service Net Solutions. They are NOT an extended Sony warranty. Thats why the rep did not know much about them.
Read the fine print, they say what they cover.
The ones I saw did not cover lamps, and were cheaper for that reason. Maybe now they do.

Dawgdaes,

It is well reported that the Motorola 6412 does not pass HDMI through a receiver. It is reported to be a 6412 problem. The 6412 did not implement all of the HDCP security handshakes properly. In particular, it does not handshake if there is a switch between it and the display device.

It is not a problem with your TV. You can prove that to yourself by plugging the HDMI from the 6412 directly into your Sony. It should work correctly.

If you want to use HDMI, then the only solution I know of is to connect the 6412 directly to the TV. The other solution is to use component video and switch through the receiver.

Greg


Is it possible that some sort of HDCP software in my 42WE655 is not allowing my to use a HDMI connection from my reciever to the TV.

My current set-up is Comcast 6412 DVR (DVI - out)>>>Sony Strda7100es (HDMI - in)>>>Sony Strda7100es (HDMI - out)>>>42WE655 (HDMI - in).

The picture tunes in for like 3 seconds. Then just flashes of light.

Dawgdaes,

It is well reported that the Motorola 6412 does not pass HDMI through a receiver. It is reported to be a 6412 problem. The 6412 did not implement all of the HDCP security handshakes properly. In particular, it does not handshake if there is a switch between it and the display device.

It is not a problem with your TV. You can prove that to yourself by plugging the HDMI from the 6412 directly into your Sony. It should work correctly.

If you want to use HDMI, then the only solution I know of is to connect the 6412 directly to the TV. The other solution is to use component video and switch through the receiver.

Greg

Some one might want to pass that info to Sony Tech Support and the Sale People at Hawthorne Electronics in Royal Oak MI. Both of them said "we dont know why it does not work just bypass the reciever and connect it directly to the TV". Which was not the response I was looking for since I bought the reciever for the HDMI switching.

Hey folks... my one-year anniversary date of my 50" GWIV is approaching on 2/11 and I've been very happy with it and look forward to many more years of fine big-screen viewing. I've received an offer for an extended service plan from Sony (through Service Net LLC, of course), and they're asking $130 for one year, or $331 for three. I don't think it covers the bulb, as it states they don't cover "items that are considered consumable by the manufacturer." But I'd like to have protection from defects, nonetheless. Does anybody have any advice on this, or any other comparable extended service plans? I've scanned the thread for any comments, but haven't come across anything all too useful. Thanks, and have a great day!

Chalkster, I had to use my extended service plan to have a technician come out and clean a dust blob (AKA "crop circle") off of my KDF-42WE655's light engine. For the uninitiated, it's not something I'd recommend trying on your own because, unlike front projectors, the TV practically has to be gutted to get to the light engine. Since it's a virtual certainty that I'm going to get another dust blob, I expect after a few technician visits the service plan will have paid for itself. Plus, who knows, maybe I'll be able to invoke the lemon clause after the third dust blob and get a free set!

Hey folks... my one-year anniversary date of my 50" GWIV is approaching on 2/11 and I've been very happy with it and look forward to many more years of fine big-screen viewing. I've received an offer for an extended service plan from Sony (through Service Net LLC, of course), and they're asking $130 for one year, or $331 for three. I don't think it covers the bulb, as it states they don't cover "items that are considered consumable by the manufacturer." But I'd like to have protection from defects, nonetheless. Does anybody have any advice on this, or any other comparable extended service plans? I've scanned the thread for any comments, but haven't come across anything all too useful. Thanks, and have a great day!

chalkster,

For what it's worth, I decided to take the 3 year warranty from Sony (for my 55WF). It was $324 , it doesn't include the blub. I usually don't take extended warranties. In this case I made an exception, for peace of mind....

Plus these sets can cost quite a bit to fix...

I bought the set from Sears (a real good deal I might add), but their extended warranty cost over $500 for three years and over $700 for 5 years (and no, the blub is not included). So the Sony warranty was the way to go...

chalkster,

For what it's worth, I decided to take the 3 year warranty from Sony (for my 55WF). It was $324 , it doesn't include the blub. I usually don't take extended warranties. In this case I made an exception, for peace of mind....

Plus these sets can cost quite a bit to fix...

I bought the set from Sears (a real good deal I might add), but their extended warranty cost over $500 for three years and over $700 for 5 years (and no, the blub is not included). So the Sony warranty was the way to go...

So if you throw in the cost of one bulb, the Sony plan is $524 for 3 years. A much better deal than Sears who does not include the lamp. Sears is very high...I'm surprised. They are not competitive with most retailers BB, CC, etc. who charge about $400 including lamps.

Awesome... thanks for the replies about the warranty. I'm sure I'll get my money's worth, with dustblobs and roadmap-looking lines and such. Just FYI, if you're considering a plan like this, get the extended service plan offered on the Sony Style website, because it's the exact same plan I received in the mail, and it's considerably cheaper. The Sony Style price was $179 for a 3-year plan, where the mailing offer was $331.

FYI, if you're considering a plan like this, get the extended service plan offered on the Sony Style website, because it's the exact same plan I received in the mail, and it's considerably cheaper. The Sony Style price was $179 for a 3-year plan, where the mailing offer was $331.

just remember, lamps are not included.

Does anyone yet have a soulution to the input bug problem?

Awesome... thanks for the replies about the warranty. I'm sure I'll get my money's worth, with dustblobs and roadmap-looking lines and such. Just FYI, if you're considering a plan like this, get the extended service plan offered on the Sony Style website, because it's the exact same plan I received in the mail, and it's considerably cheaper. The Sony Style price was $179 for a 3-year plan, where the mailing offer was $331.

Chalkster,

The plan shown on the Sony website is a "Point of Sale" Plan. So you can only get it when you purchase the item from Sony. That means you pay list for the TV.
I tried to get one of those plans for my set (purchased from Sears), but I had to settle for the $324, 3 year plan.

I don't think a plan is worth it (unless VERY inexpensive) unless it includes lamps.
You KNOW lamps will fail. Why not have them covered? Nothing else may fail, but if it does, you are still covered. Yeah, you can argue it's a toss up. :)

Anyone on this thread have trouble with the KDF55-WF655 memorizing channels on Comcast? Comcast has recently screwed up the PSIP for the High Def local channels (San Francisco Bay area). Today, the local PBS (KQED 9.1) quite working on the PSIP of 9.1. It is broadcast on 117.2 and I can tune that if I directly enter the frequency. But the TV will not memorize that channel. I wonder if there is something in the PSIP that is causing the TV to try to reassign it to an illeagle channel. At any rate, does anyone know of a fix/work-around for this?

Thanks.
Greg

Hey everyone. I have a one-year-old WE655 42", and I recently connected something to its HDMI port for the first time (an upconverting Sony DVD player). However, the image appeared to be shifted down slightly on the screen. At -1 overscan, I had ~1/2" of black bar on the top, and the bar appeared to slant slightly to the right. At 0 overscan, the bar was much smaller, and at +1, it went away completely. When I connected the player through component cables, there was no problem at any of the overscan settings.

I've seen a few mentions of this problem here and there on the web, but most people seem to assume that the person reporting it is confused about aspect ratios on DVDs. This is definitely not that--it's only on the top, and it appears even in 16:9 sources. Has anyone else seen this problem? Is there any fix besides going into the service menu and shifting the image position?

Thanks for the info,
Phil

Anyone on this thread have trouble with the KDF55-WF655 memorizing channels on Comcast? Comcast has recently screwed up the PSIP for the High Def local channels (San Francisco Bay area). Today, the local PBS (KQED 9.1) quite working on the PSIP of 9.1. It is broadcast on 117.2 and I can tune that if I directly enter the frequency. But the TV will not memorize that channel. I wonder if there is something in the PSIP that is causing the TV to try to reassign it to an illeagle channel. At any rate, does anyone know of a fix/work-around for this?

Thanks.
Greg

I can add them to the favorites, but cannot label them. I can label them only when the quam tuner finds them.

Has anyone had problems with the KDF55-WF655 forgetting its cable channels? My set has suddenly started to sometimes forget all of the memorized channels when I turn it off. When I turn it back on, it comes up on the last channel I was tuned to, but the channel up/down doesn't work. The channel memory is empty and I have to re-scan for channels to get the analog channels back. This is on the Cable input. The antenna input does not seem to forget. I am on Comcast cable and they have been messing with their headend equipment lately. Does anyone know if that can cause such a problem?

I know how to check lamp hours, how do I reset them?

Has anyone had problems with the KDF55-WF655 forgetting its cable channels? My set has suddenly started to sometimes forget all of the memorized channels when I turn it off. When I turn it back on, it comes up on the last channel I was tuned to, but the channel up/down doesn't work. The channel memory is empty and I have to re-scan for channels to get the analog channels back. This is on the Cable input. The antenna input does not seem to forget. I am on Comcast cable and they have been messing with their headend equipment lately. Does anyone know if that can cause such a problem?

Greg,

I've been reading the avsforum off and on for a couple of years now, but finally decided to register. I am "yet another comcast customer with a sony" (WE655). I live in the same city as you, have cable but no STB/cableCard; so I have been experiencing the exact same problems you have, ie. can't memorize 117.2, and kept losing all my scanned channels after turning off the set. What I "suspect" was happening (don't know for sure) was that my Sony was choking on the number of scanned/memorized channels, and this was causing both these problems to occur. So, the way I got around this was to not have ALL the scanned channels (unencrypted and encrypted) stored in memory. I did this by first scanning all the channels (automatically and manually), and then determining which ones I wanted to save. Then I restarted a scan which I aborted shortly after all the analog channels were found. This takes roughly a minute. Afterwards I manually scanned in the digital channels that I do want to have saved by simply typing in those digital channels. You only need to enter one of the digital sub-channels for any given set of sub-channels, and all the other sub-channels will be automatically picked up and stored (as "Shown"). For example, to pick up all the 117.X channels, simply type in 117.1, and all the other 117.X sub-channels will be picked up and stored in memory. After getting all the digital channels/sub-channels I wanted, I went back into the program menu and suppressed all the unwanted or “No Signal” sub-channels I didn't want to see. This yielded much less stored channels/sub-channels, and solved the two problems I had. :D

=Yaccwas

If I hook up my dvd player to my tv via HDMI will the tv pass the optical (DD 5.1/DTS/PCMRAW) audio out to my receiver from the tv's optical out?

If this is true, then i can hook up my tv and my dvd player to my receiver's one optical input and avoid either using an external optical audio switch box, buying a new receiver or manually switching the optical input in the back of the receiver...

Update: no it doesn't, hdmi seems to bring stereo left and right channels... maybe digitally, but no optical passthrough on this tv.

:mad: Bought one of the first 42GWIV, sept/04. Last night noticed yellow lines resembling etch-a-sketch on right half of screen. Has anyone else had this problem. I researched the problem on GWIII thread and found it to be a real problem resulting in replacement of optical light engine, with a cost of over $2000 to repair. I am out of warranty and did not purchase an extended plan. Plan on calling repair center on Monday.

Good luck with the etch-a-sketch, that seems to be the most common symptom as far as the optic block going out.

Hopefully Sony can at least meet you half way. Be civil, but very firm in your request.


I don't want to rain on anybody's parade, but the latest issue of Home Theater mag tested a huge inventory of the most common displays, including A10 and A20 Sonys.
The test had to do with the deinterlacing capability of signals broadcast in 1080i (most common res. used for DTV).
You can read the technical details, but in a nutshell some displays do not fully capture the resolution being input during downconversion to the native res. (720 or 768).
Well, the only Sony's that failed were ones using 768X1366. The A10, using 720X1280 display, passed successfully, as did the SXRD. All the information I've been able to gather, the A20 uses the same architecture as most GWIV, like the XS, WF, WE.
So while properly tuned displays have a dynamite images, some are not even as good as they COULD be. While I am still quite pleased with mine, I do feel we have been ripped off a little.
But this applies to ALL brands, and seems to have been resloved with late 2005 and 2006 models, regardless of native resolution.

:mad: Bought one of the first 42GWIV, sept/04. Last night noticed yellow lines resembling etch-a-sketch on right half of screen. Has anyone else had this problem. I researched the problem on GWIII thread and found it to be a real problem resulting in replacement of optical light engine, with a cost of over $2000 to repair. I am out of warranty and did not purchase an extended plan. Plan on calling repair center on Monday.

From what I've read about this problem, the people who had it were able to deal with Sony on the cost of the parts...

For what a new set costs vs. the cost of repairing the old one.

Buying new may be the way to go...

Etch-A-Sketch required new optic block. Sony Customer service covered part, I paid for Labor only. I was 5 months out of warranty, customer service was very cooperative not combative.

Originally Posted by gfbuchanan
Has anyone had problems with the KDF55-WF655 forgetting its cable channels? My set has suddenly started to sometimes forget all of the memorized channels when I turn it off. When I turn it back on, it comes up on the last channel I was tuned to, but the channel up/down doesn't work. The channel memory is empty and I have to re-scan for channels to get the analog channels back. This is on the Cable input. The antenna input does not seem to forget. I am on Comcast cable and they have been messing with their headend equipment lately. Does anyone know if that can cause such a problem?




I have Comcast also and they told me of a sony repair offer for my set that could not hold channel programing. For my set A10 they replaced the bulb and added shielding in the bulb area, free. worked out since a got a new bulb on a six month old set, and all if working great!!


m

I got my KDF42WE655 for my living room last year and moved my 27" Sony Tube into the bed room... My Pioneer DV-440 (non-progressive) player stayed in the living room with the new 42" hooked via components... DVD's look great! but the player is getting older and I need one for the bedroom...

I tried using my Pioneer DVR-531H as a player with the 42" sony... but was severly disappointed.. so the DV440 stayed out there... (see -> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=608917 )

Choices... get a new player for the 42" tv and move the pioneer back to the bedroom hooked to the 27" sony tube.... Or just get a cheapy for the bed room...

But due to the DVR-531H's performance, I'm a little gun shy of getting a "cheapy"

Any suggestions of a DVD Player that looks VERY GOOD with my 42" sony, but won't break the bank? (i.e. under the $175 to $200 range)... Btw, if it makes any difference, the cable box is hooked via components, so I can use either HDMI or Component DVD player...

I have the kdf-60xs955, its around 6 months old and today it seemed to have a weird problem. It was working fine throughout the day, than I go to turn it on and it was snow/very faint picture, so I switched to dvd, satellite inputs and same problem, changed channels and nothing. So I turned the tv off for a few minutes and turned it back on and it started working normally. What could be the problem and should I deal with it before my warranty runs out? Please help!!

I have the kdf-60xs955, its around 6 months old and today it seemed to have a weird problem. It was working fine throughout the day, than I go to turn it on and it was snow/very faint picture, so I switched to dvd, satellite inputs and same problem, changed channels and nothing. So I turned the tv off for a few minutes and turned it back on and it started working normally. What could be the problem and should I deal with it before my warranty runs out? Please help!!
Most definitely, and right away. It'll be a hassle, but any repairs on a set like this are likely to be costly; you want the warranty to pay for it.

I recently purchased a mfgr refurb kdf-60wf655 w/ full Sony warranty for $1650.00 plus $133.33 shipping. The shipper even set it on stand and allowed me to plug it and connect the Comcast cable to it before leaving. The TechCraft PTV-58 that was pre-assembled and locally picked up for 140- no tax.

I was also able to get an open box LG upconverting DVD player for under $100.00 after rebate at BB and a Monster HDMI cable reg $99 for @ $25 and three Monster audio cables for @$8.00 each and no tax at a military base electronics store (50 % off on red tag returns).

My 13 year old top of the line Kenwood receiver and Bose AM-7 speakers really make it right tight. Heck, I even use a 13 year old Pioneer Laser Disc Karoake player with it. There's even room for a 12 year old Sony five disc cd changer, i.e., everything fits in the Tech Craft stand.

I use a cable card with Comcast and I'm very happy with the the PQ and do not notice any issues with the set at all. I checked all the lines and had Comcast tighten up the connection coming in the house from the outside.

This backward compatible big screen on a budget really blows me away!

I tried FredBored's(?) user tweaks and they worked very well. I'm thinking the only thing I should do is install the Kodak filter in front of the light as VideoAdict(?) outlined.

1) I've been in the service menu in an attempt to determine lamp hours, but was too timid to explore (I didn't determine lamp hours). Are the service menu tweaks posted by umr good for the GWIV's?

2) Has anyone been able to determine a set of tweaks specifically for the wf (that they are willing to share via PM)?

3) In lieu of installing the Kodak filter, can black levels and maybe even some of the other advanced user menu options available on the xs be tweaked via the service menu on the wf's?





Thanks,

Friendly Neighborhood Tightwad

So if you throw in the cost of one bulb, the Sony plan is $524 for 3 years. A much better deal than Sears who does not include the lamp. Sears is very high...I'm surprised. They are not competitive with most retailers BB, CC, etc. who charge about $400 including lamps.

I purchased a 5 year plan from Circuit City (4 after original warranty) for a whopping $499 but it covers unlimited lamp replacement. Shortly after I got my KDF-50WE655, CC changed the warranty deal to include only 1 lamp replacement so I made sure to go back and had the sales person spell out on the receipt that my extended warranty covers unlimited lamp replacements. I did buy a back up lamp so that i wouldn't be with out the TV for the time it takes to send the burnt out lamp and receive a new lamp. It's going on 13 months and my original lamp is still excellent.

Why buy a back up? The first year, while the warranty is still good, call Sony and tell them you need another bulb. Yours just went out. Does not sound too ethical, but the cost of a replacement is probably already factored into their pricing anyway. Of course, if they have to send a tech to replace it, you are SOL. But if not, that's a couple of hundred that would have paid for half your extended warranty.

When I purhcased my Sears extended warranty on my GWIII, bulbs were included in the coverage. They've already replaced two, so I know they honor it. Perhaps the coverage has changed though.

I should have added that my purchase was back in Dec. 2003.

I bought my KDF-42WE655 last fall from CC. It was an open box deal that I got for a nice price. I also purchased CC's extended warranty plan for $349 after the salesman knocked off $100 if I purchased it that day (precisely because of the bulb replacement).

I've only been satisfied with this television. Ran the DVE disc through and didn't notice much a difference. Nonetheless, the PQ is beautiful. I am currently subscribed to Comcast HD here in Detroit and use the Moto 6412 phase III box. I also have connected to the TV a Sony DAV-FC9 HTIB. Very happy, indeed.

Couple of questions:

1) When the tv is off or during dark scenes I see what looks like a smudge on the screen in the upper left quadrant of the screen. I've tried cleaning the screen but to no avail. From a couple earlier posts, this might be dust on the inside of the box. Any insights? How do I go about getting this addressed?

2) Re: bulbs - I've noticed that my screen has been getting darker over the last two weeks or so. I'm not sure if the TV remains covered by Sony or if I would use the CC plan. How do I determine if the TV is still covered by Sony? Also, if I contact Sony for a bulb replacement, will they send a tech to install or will Sony let me do it on my own?

3) How do I find out the number of hours the TV has been turned on?

4) Is there a thread (if not in this one) that I can find general care and maintenance tips?

Thanks in advance.

Bump...another question, too...

Is there a tweaks thread here at AVS for the KDF-42WE655?

Bump...another question, too...

Is there a tweaks thread here at AVS for the KDF-42WE655?

Do searches on 'GWIV tweaks', that plus some other Sony topics with advice from 'umr' should get you a lot of tweaks to try. I would strongly advise a lot of reading before probing into the service menu.
Understanding what you are doing is far superior to just using someone else's settings.

Bump...another question, too...

Is there a tweaks thread here at AVS for the KDF-42WE655?

this is the only thread I know of.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7000423#post7000423

this is the only thread I know of.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7000423#post7000423




http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=465144&highlight=GWIV+tweaks

This is probably a stupid question, but I've poked around and can't seem to find the answer. I have a KDF-42WE655.

When watching certain channels, like the non-HD HBO's, the TV can't seem to figure out if it should be in wide or normal mode, and tends to flip back and forth.

Is there a setting I can use when watching these channels that would force the TV not to automatically change wide modes? Setting the option in the menu for "4:3 default" to "off" or "normal" doesn't seem to work.

(If it matters, my cable box is the Motorola 6412.)

Thanks

This is probably a stupid question, but I've poked around and can't seem to find the answer. I have a KDF-42WE655.

When watching certain channels, like the non-HD HBO's, the TV can't seem to figure out if it should be in wide or normal mode, and tends to flip back and forth.

Is there a setting I can use when watching these channels that would force the TV not to automatically change wide modes? Setting the option in the menu for "4:3 default" to "off" or "normal" doesn't seem to work.

(If it matters, my cable box is the Motorola 6412.)

Thanks

i think it has to do with the 4:3 override setting on the 6412. I recording something right now and cant check but will post later.

Sorry for the thread revival:

I was just tinkering around with the idea of getting a spare bulb. I have had the 50WE655 since 11/04 and I am still on the first bulb with a timer count of 3192 hours. For those out there is this a decent average reading for the bulb? I have no suspicions that it is even on the verge of going bad. Just curious to see what others have done/reached with their bulbs? Thanks.

Curious how you got such a precise bulb timer count? I have a 60XS955.

I wondered about the bulb timer too. I have a 55WF. Does anyone have any experience with the DVI connection? I just got a cable box that has that as an option. It is now connected to the TV with component video connections. I seem to remember that the DVI was not very good or is that just because there is no audio? I only care about the picture because I run the audio through my audio system when it matters.

I wondered about the bulb timer too. I have a 55WF. Does anyone have any experience with the DVI connection? I just got a cable box that has that as an option. It is now connected to the TV with component video connections. I seem to remember that the DVI was not very good or is that just because there is no audio? I only care about the picture because I run the audio through my audio system when it matters.

I have the same setup, and you can use a DVI to HDMI cable to connect the digital output from the cable box to the digital input of the Sony. Having done it both ways (component and dvi/hdmi) in my experience the dvi/hdmi is a much better picture in almost every way.

I have the same setup, and you can use a DVI to HDMI cable to connect the digital output from the cable box to the digital input of the Sony. Having done it both ways (component and dvi/hdmi) in my experience the dvi/hdmi is a much better picture in almost every way.
Thanks, rmullin. I'll give it a try.