I'm seriously considering the purchase of a 47X54 and have been playing with one at a friend's house. One of my hangups is how 4:3 is presented, as I still watch a fair amount of 4:3.

In viewing the "JUST" mode, I can see why many find it acceptable. It retains all of the image and does minimize the horizontal stretch in the center of the image, however I still find it annoying on some material.

The "FULL" mode is less desirable as it applies a constant horizontal stretch, taking what is a 30.7" wide 4:3 image and stretches it to 41" wide (which JUST does too), while retaining the 23" height of the image. I can't watch this.

The "ZOOM" mode appears to take the 30.7" x 23" image and expand it to a virtual 41" x 30.7" image, and then cuts off about 3.5" off the top and bottom, given you a 41x23 window into that image, while retaining the OAR image relationship.

What I found was that the Panasonic allows one to modify the ZOOM settings, both the vertical expansion of the image and the vertical positioning - i.e. the placement of the "window" into your virtual expanded image.

Their are 5 settings for the ZOOM mode, denoted as the "Size" parameter in the ZOOM ADJ menu, ranging from 0 to 4. A setting of 0 appears to set vertical expansion to 0, expanding the image only along the horizontal axis. Thus it is equivalent to "FULL," which does the same. thing.

By tinkering with these settings, I found that I could produce a 4:3 mode that I find preferable to "JUST" for some material. Setting the Size parameter to 2 tells the set to expand the vertical height by about half of the default zoom (Size=4). This creates a virtual image of approximately 41"x27", with an aspect ratio of just a bit over 1.5:1. You could regard this as 3:2 or 4.5:3. The image is stretched but not nearly so much as what you see in FULL. To my eyes, it is uniformly stretched a bit less than even the center of the screen is in JUST. It does not alter the image all that much from watching it in 4:3.

But now we have about 4" of the virtual image that cannot be displayed on the screen. The vertical settings parameter can then be used to move our displayed window around within that image. It can be set from -8 to +8. The default setting is 0, which cuts off an equal amount of the top and bottom of the image. By setting it to its lower end, at -6 to -8, the viewing window moves toward the top of the image. That is, it cuts off more of the bottom of the image. A -8 cuts off just over 3" from the bottom, and only a half-inch or so from the top.

Many shows do not have much content along the bottom edge of the screen. It might not be optimal for watching a soccer game, but for standard fare, loping off the bottom 10%-12% of the image doesn't make much of an impact. On a movie I was watching last night, which mainly consisted of people talking to each other, there was essentially no loss of key information, and having the people's faces be only slightly altered from their OAR, was nice. Faces looked more natural than when using JUST and much better than FULL.

It is an interesting trade-off to make and it is very nice that Panasonic enables us with this degree of control. You can set Size to 1 for a minor expansion and then cut off just a bit of the bottom with the vertical positioning. Even this minor adjustment produces an image that I find superior to the FULL mode. With 5 Size settings and 17 vertical position settings, that's 85 different combinations that one can play with to see if they find something that works for them.

Now that is interesting!
Is this something in the service menu area?

It is in the standard user menu. You have to put the TV into ZOOM mode, go into the menu, parse over to SETUP, then down to Zoom Adj and hit the right arrow key on the remote.

Thanks Tom!!!

I tried it last night and agree that the picture is much improved over the "J us t" and "s t r e t c h" mode ;)

It's also nice with the harmony remote bc the Panny has a discrete Zoom code but not a discrete JUST code.

Have you tried taking the screen protector off..... a great improvement if you watch tv during the day or are annoyed with reflections from the screen.

Regards.

The Zoom settings certainly allow for a lot of personal preference. While I do like the Size=2 setting, I keep playing around with a number of different V-Position settings. If someone is looking for a place to start, I'd suggest Size=2 and V-Position set to -4, then go from there. Then compare JUST & FULL to this ZOOM setting and see which one you like. Images look noticably less squished to me in this custom setting than either JUST or FULL, but you do lose a bit off both the top and bottom of the image and that can be annoying at times.

Too bad you can't apply these same settings to the JUST mode, as that would be the best of both worlds.

The only thing I am worried about about taking the screen protector is the dust factor.

Does it still seem easy to clean dust off, and does it seem like it can catch dust easier (the screen)

The only thing I am worried about about taking the screen protector is the dust factor.

Does it still seem easy to clean dust off, and does it seem like it can catch dust easier (the screen)

Doesn't seem to catch dust easier than with the protector on. I have a can of compressed air that you can buy at your local office supplies shop that I clean the dust off of the screen with. (Have only done this once in the past 3 months.... but I did it just 'because'- not that it really needed it.)

Works like a charm.

I bet if you were to take a look at your screen protector right now there would be minute amounts of dust on it. Same thing with the protector removed. No big deal at all.
HTH.

Hi again...like I said before I removed the protective screen and have enjoyed the results...

However....

I notice that the grid screen has a slight wave in it...I have a feeling I did not put the screen/backing/protective screen combo back together as well as I should. Before there was tape holding the 3 together, but I did not put more tape on and I forgot 2 of the screws as well....

For those of you who did this did you put more tape/more screws to ensure as flat a surface as possible?

BadMojo11,
Remembered this one, hope it helps.

There are only 10 (approx) screws holding the screen to the frame... which results in slight bowing at the attachment points. HOWEVER:eek: there are mounting holes for another 25ish screws already drilled... just not used by panny when assembling :confused: (cost savings).

Screwing in the rest of these holes and all torqued the same with your drill will give you a much more even surface that should help with some of the finer adjustments that everyone here are trying to make.

The screws to use are the same ones that are all around the outside of the set. Just unscrew one, go to the hardware store, get a couple of dozen more and you should have some left over.

Anyone have an isf calibration done yet... ???

Regards.

I found that the residue of the tape was enough to hold it fine again, so I did not put new tape on... just used the old stuff. I also put extra screws in all the holes to clamp it down nicely with all the screws torqued the same with my drill.

If I were you, I would remount the screen, tape it, and grab extra screws while you're at it. For the number of hours that you're going to look at it, it is time well spent.

After that, I would redo the convergence in the Service menu.... then you can be satisfied that you have done everything that you're capable of for this set.

Viewing sure is nice with the screen protector off...

Thanks a lot guys

How long does it take to remove the protective screen and reinstall? Thinking about biting the bullet on this one. Took me four months to work up the nerve to doe a service menu convergence and I may be ready to remove the screen. Also, any idea what size screws are used to hold the screen on? I wold like to get them ahead of time when I do this.

The process took about an hour, with my sons help. May be longer if you don't have a helper (and probably much more nerve wracking)....

I am taking one of the screws I forgot to put back in and getting about 30 more at the hardware store...according to others the ones on the outside frame of the TV are the same size as the ones on the frame holding the screens...

Ok fellas, my 2 & 4 years old angels did a number on the screen and now it has a few visible scratches on it. I called Panasonic and order a replacement screen since now the conversion of my garage to theater room is complete (no kids & women allowed ala Al Bundy ;) ). I should be able to replace the screen by following the removal steps posted here - correct? Has anyone removed the screen and then decided to just put it back?

ca1avera,

I don't see any problem that you would have by following the steps listed above. If anything it will be a bit easier because you don't have to change the order of the screens.

Be sure that you don't get dust inbetween the screens when you do the do.

You'll be fine.

FYI...

the screws from the outside of the set are NOT the same as the ones in the inner frame (at least on the 53x54)

Once the screen comes in I will give it a shot. Thanks.

Hi all. I'm new to the forums here. I just got myself a Panasonic 47X54, and overall, I think the picture is fantastic. However, I do have one small problem, and I was wondering if someone could possibly give this a quick diagnosis?

Convergence seems to be fine right out of the box, but when viewing both cable AND DVD images, I notice some very faint horizontal bands that span the entire width of the screen(top to bottom), slowly moving downward.

These "ghost" bands are most noticeable when the screen goes all black, or any dark, solid color. Having examined store demonstrators meticulously, I never saw anything like this; only on my set.

Essentially, is this normal? If not, is it something that I might be overlooking, or should I simply contact the vendor about this issue? The TV was delivered less than 36 hours ago.

Thanks in advance.

I've only seen this occasionally during a black transition between scenes while watching TV, DirecTV, on the S-video input. Then the bands are very broad, about a third of the screen and roll very slowly. I have not observed it while watching DVD's, using either the s-video, component, or HDMI inputs. When using the full black image on the DVE disk I see no banding. For me I always assumed the banding was caused by DirecTV or the broadcaster. I know this doesn't point to any solution but your banding doesn't appear to be normal.

If your not using the HDMI input, you want to try swapping out you interconnect cables and see if that helps.

Hi Moxie.

Yup, at first I thought it might be the cables, so I tried swapping them, but no change. The bands are there whether I watch cable broadcast, DVD, or feed from a VCR. The bands themselves are actually quite thin, and there must be about 40 or so at the screen at one time; all evenly-spaced, and very faint.

I'm wondering if maybe I might have a defective capacitor or something?

captain_america:

I have it too.
I actually first noticed it watching a widescreen DVD (I saw it in the black bars.) Mine scroll downwards as well, only they seem to be slightly angled towards the left. As you mentioned I also notice it on solid backgrounds, but especially white or black. I'm not aware of any fixes???

I was fiddling with two 47X54s lately and found the following condition true for both.

When displaying a solid black image, the screen was dark red, not black. Even when displaying title credits off of a DVD, the background was dark red. It could be adjusted to black, but only by reducing Brightness down to the low 20's and Picture down to the low teen's, which caused a severe black crush to all images.

When a typical image is displayed, with people wearing black suits or there are black areas at points in the image, the blacks look fine. However whenever black begins to dominate the screen, say when displaying title credits, or even stars against a black sky, the blacks shift to dark reds.

Anyone know what gives here?

Don't see any red with full black screen. Brightness at 38, Picture at 31. However, while looking for the test pattern I noticed I have to do another convergence.

At my friend's house right now. Put his set on Brightness 38, Picture 31. Using a Dish network receiver, the image borders on starting to wash out at those settings. When switching channels, where the program information is displayed against a "black screen" for a second or two, before the channel's picture locks on, the background is now a medium reddish gray, not even close to black.

His normal settings are Brightness 35, Picture 26.

We also just tried one of the Dish alternate channels, where just the big Dish Network logo is displayed. The background here is a very dark red, not black. I know Dish is broadcasting a black background here.

Perhaps this is just a grayscale calibration issue?

I have to retract what I said about not seeing red. Last night I popped in the DVE disk and again went into the video black screen. It did have a red glow. I don't know about greyscale, but early on, either in this thread or the regular Pany x54 thread members noted the red push with this set. I wonder if that is what we are seeing?

After watching more and using some test screens, my take is that the Panny does fine on brighter scenes, but there is a red push on low brightness screens. So on a scene with some bright sections, the blacks are solid. But as you get to low brightness shots, like candle-lit indoor scenes and shots mainly against black backgrounds, there is a shift toward a warm, reddish tint.

I suspect this would be fixed with a calibration, which fixes the color balance across a wide range of brightness.

Quick question, hope someone can help me out. I'm looking at the 53x54 manual for manual convergence. For the first step it says to align the horizontal and vertical green lines with the cabinet reference marks. Where or what are the cabinet reference marks?? Are these marks on the TV cabinet itself?

Yes, it is on the cabinet itself (close to the screen). You need to look really close on the top and left side.

Phoenix-
Be aware that if you use those lines, your overscan will be dictated by that. I found that when I used VE to set my overscan, I was off of those marks by a good margin. It also seems that the more you compensate for overscan, the more the convergence can be off and less likely it will be "spot on" again without going into the service menu (which I haven't done yet).

I know calibration setting will differ from set-to-set, system-to-system, but I'm a bit surprised by how far off my black/white level setting are from many reports here (two reports of brightness-38/picture-31 on this page, for example). Actually, my black level/brightness setting is fairly close to those reported here at "35". It begins to crush slightly at 34, though the deeper blacks look very nice and I occasionally knock it down a notch to get really inky.

But it's my picture/contrast setting of "16" that seems way off from those recently reported (31? yikes!). I can clearly see crushing on DVE when I move the contrast level to 17 or beyond. And in "real world" viewing, a higher contrast setting gives it that glarey, over-contrasty look that also exacerbates noise and other artifacts. So I have no reason or desire to "pump" the contrast above the appropriate DVE-calibrated setting except during daytime viewing when the ambient light is higher than ideal. Otherwise, it very obviously has a negative effect on picture quality.

I don't know if this means anything really, but finding that my settings (particularly the picture setting) are so far off from many others on this forum introduces some doubt into how I have my TV calibrated... why is mine so different?

One other niggling matter: when correcting for color/tint, does anyone else find it impossible to get the greens dialed in right? No matter what I do, those color bars don't come close to being the same shade of green when viewed through the green filter. Blue is perfect, and adjust red down a bit to prevent oversaturation... but green ain't nowhere near close. I've heard a bit about "green depression" (and my greens do have me a tad depressed, though only when I view the reference pluges), but I didn't think this set or my DVD player (Panasonic S77) suffer from that.

FWIW, my setup is a Panny S77 DVD player set to upscale video to 1080i via HDMI cable to my Panny x54. (The settings on my Panny S77 are similar to everyone else's: +2 for brightness, -1 sharpness, -2 contrast, 0 for everything else).

But it's my picture/contrast setting of "16" that seems way off from those recently reported (31? yikes!). I can clearly see crushing on DVE when I move the contrast level to 17 or beyond. And in "real world" viewing, a higher contrast setting gives it that glarey, over-contrasty look that also exacerbates noise and other artifacts. So I have no reason or desire to "pump" the contrast above the appropriate DVE-calibrated setting except during daytime viewing when the ambient light is higher than ideal. Otherwise, it very obviously has a negative effect on picture quality.


Don't take my picture/contrast setting as any reference. Yours are probably correct. I just stated my settings for reference when talking about the red glow. I didn't have any problem setting the brightness with DVE but I had great difficulty setting the picture/contrast. Because of that, I just set it at 31 which I thought was as "neutral" point on the panny. Any hints on what to look for when setting picture/contrast using DVE is appreciated - my eyes are old.

Hi,
Just got a PT-53WX54...
Awesome TV but I noticed the following:

1) when watching satellite TV (especially when viewing the online program TV guide) there appears to be some wiggly zig-zaggy lines about a 1/4 of the way from the right of the TV screen -- the TV guide has rectangles around each program and the right side of the rectangle appears zig-zagged/not straight. I am using s-video from the satellite receiver to the tv.

2) I also noticed the above when watching a DVD movie with subtitles - the subtitles (especially when the word contains the letter 'L' or "I" again appear zig-zagged/not straight). I am using Monster THX certified component video cables from my Toshiba DVD player to the tv.


Questions:

1) Is this zig-zaggy effect normal?
2) Do I need to manually adjust the convergence, especially after the TV was delivered to me by truck?
3) do I expect this zig-zag to disappear after adjusting the convergence?
4) if not, what can I do to fix it?


thanks in advance...

I seem to have a problem with blue around certain colors on my 47X54. It's mainly around white, but it's also around some greens and other colors on the menu. I've done the user convergence, but the blue still goes beyond the white crosses. What can I do?

Also, I was watching a DVD (set up with HDMI), and there was actually blue trailing a very white object. There's something definitely wrong with the blue, but is there anything I can do without having to take the back off of the TV or calling someone?

Anyone?

Anyone?

I'd try auto convergence if you haven't already and then maybe see if you can tweak user convergence if need be afterwards.

Really tho, it sounds like you either need the convergence set at the service menu level or else your mechanical and/or electrical focus is off. Or all of the above.

I don't know that you'll ever entirely get rid of the blue glow around white objects if it is something you keep looking for. But it shouldn't be that noticable unless you are really looking for it. From your description it is off more than the norm on a RPTV.

-AKH

I haven't been able to find the message or the thread but it did explain why the blue was not focused as sharply as the red and green. It said something about our eyes have trouble seeing blue.
I have always had the blue halo around the cross hatches in the convergence menu and with my older eyes it is difficult to adjust. However, once I did the nine point convergence the blue flash disappeared. After the service menu convergence even the FBI warning cleaned up.
BTW, you don't have to open up the cabinet to do the service menu adjustment. The person who said that in your original thread was describing adjusting the focus.

Here is the link to the thread that had a good explanation about blue being defocused.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5909004#post5909004

I'm still a good bit hesitant to open up the cabinet for mechanical focusing. I'm wondering if doing a service menu convergence without performing a mechanical or electrical focus would be worthwhile?

I would recommend the service menu convergence. I felt it was worthwhile in that it improved picture quality. The colors appeared more vibrant and the whites lost their dingy yellow tint. And that was before I even adjusted the set with DVE.

I adjusted my Picture and Brightness settings to 31 and 38, respectively, and while things do look better, I definitely notice the red glow that everyone's been talking about. So, which adjustment in the service menu do you have to make to fix the red glow?

I adjusted my Picture and Brightness settings to 31 and 38, respectively, and while things do look better, I definitely notice the red glow that everyone's been talking about. So, which adjustment in the service menu do you have to make to fix the red glow?

not sure what red glow you're talking about but try going into the menu convergence of the TV and adjust/align the red crosshairs.
Most probably that will fix the problem.

Read the last half of the previous page... it has nothing to do with red being off convergence, it's just in certain scenarios, black doesn't appear black -- it appears dark red.

So has anyone got a fix to that? The specific service menu tweak would be nice...

I think Tom_Bombadil is right in that it is a greyscale calibration issue. After this thread ran I did run across another thread here where the reddish blacks were tied to greyscale. If that is the case, the only solution I know of is a professional calibration. Fortunately for me, I only notice it when the screen is 100% black and it is dark outside. Usually there is enough ambient light that I don't notice it.

I think one of the posts in the previous page said something about there being a service menu adjustment. And there are adjustments in that menu relating to red color... so I'm assuming it would be one of those. I just want to be sure of exactly which one.

I continue to believe it is due to the Panny having an overly warm color temp at low brightness. On bright scenes, the reds are fine. As the screen brightness drops, the temps tilt toward red. On a black screen, it is quite tilted to red. If you watch carefully, you'll see it a lot.

The only fix I know of is a professional calibration. If you go into the SM and adjust the reds downward, then you will be overly cool (blue'ish) at normal brightness. You've got to know how to adjust to get color temps as close to 6500 degrees at all IRE levels.

So has anyone got a fix to that? The specific service menu tweak would be nice...

It's in the second post in this thread (page 1).

What is the best method of cleaning the screen (without the protective screen)?

What is the best method of cleaning the screen (without the protective screen)?

For dust use an anti-dust cloth or compressed air.
For smudges and the like I wouldn't put any chemicals on the glass screen (w/o the plastic protective screen). Probably warm water and some very mild detergent(if necessary) should work.

Hey guys, great thread, I have a problem with my panny, I notice the image on the top left curves upwards and the image on the bottom left curves downwards. Very noticeable during movies with straight horizontal black bars. It's annoying when doors and walls are curved when watching a movie. Is there any way to fix this in service mode without opening up the TV. If so, can someone tell me which settings I have to fiddle with to fix this. Thanks in advance.

Look in the 2nd post of this thread. Steps 17 to 20. I have never done this since I don't have a template. I have just done 21 and 22.

When I finally got into the service menu a few months back I noticed a slight geometry problem on the right and bottom of the set. Reading a recent thread about speaker placement I realized I had an unshielded subwoofer up against the back left hand side of the set. I relocated the subwoofer five feet away from the set and the geometry problem was gone.

Do you guys recommend getting the Extended 2 or 3 year warranty plan than Panasonic offers? I just got a letter in the mail offering this for my 53" 53wx54 Panny.

Have people in the past had a lot of problems with Panny Projection TVs?

I have a 53x54 and I just today noticed a wavy line in the very top left corner of the screen with the following colors

yellow red purple blue aqua

Now in the way it looks it almost seems like maybe the wires that hang inside the frame may have fallen and are being projected? Or maybe I am crazy.

Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks.

. If you bought it at Costco you have an automatic lifetime warranty. Costco is selling that model for $1099 i think.

Otherwise I would not buy an EW, Never have in 25 years on anything and am way ahead,

Thanks for the help.

Anyone else?

Thanks for the help.

Anyone else?

make sure it is not near any unshielded speakers.
Do you notice this when the TV is off?

make sure it is not near any unshielded speakers.
Do you notice this when the TV is off?

No, it is not near any unshielded speakers.

No, you cannot see this when the TV is off

No, it is not near any unshielded speakers.

No, you cannot see this when the TV is off

then in that case it probably means there are some loose wires in that corner, as you mentioned before.
If you can verify that it is indeed wires then you'd need to take out the screen and fix. Should not be too hard. If not then the guns need to be adjusted.

then in that case it probably means there are some loose wires in that corner, as you mentioned before.
If you can verify that it is indeed wires then you'd need to take out the screen and fix. Should not be too hard. If not then the guns need to be adjusted.

Well it sure looked like a wire hanging, and that's what it was. Simple matter of resettling/retaping the wire, now everything is great. Thanks!

Those that removed the protective screen please be aware of this possibility!

Do you guys recommend getting the Extended 2 or 3 year warranty plan than Panasonic offers? I just got a letter in the mail offering this for my 53" 53wx54 Panny.

Have people in the past had a lot of problems with Panny Projection TVs?

I am starting to wonder about htis as well. I purchased my 53x54 at Sears and didn't get the extended warranty at that time. I now may have changed my mind. I seem to recall them saying I could get an extended within the first year?

I recently got the panasonic 53x54 and i do see the red tint but i am more bothered by the fact that the skin tones have a green tint which is quite distracting. Anyone else see this?Any thoughts on what i should do? I'm
ready to sell it i hate it so much!

I am starting to wonder about htis as well. I purchased my 53x54 at Sears and didn't get the extended warranty at that time. I now may have changed my mind. I seem to recall them saying I could get an extended within the first year?


But your issue was due to the fact that you had opened the set before to remove the protective screen? no?

yes you can still get the extended warranty within the first year of purchase.

Hello to all:

I know this is the x54 thread and I have a "wx" model but this seemed to be the best place to ask for help in regards to the problem I'm having.

I've recently repurposed a computer to do some "TIVO-style" work and and things look pretty good. It's hooked up to the DVI-D input on the Pt-53wx54 and I've been able to compensate enough for the inevitable overscan.

My only trouble is whenever I turn the TV off and then back on, the DVI input loses the video signal. It still has audio but no picture whatsoever. Changing the duration between turning the tv off then on again has no effect. Pressing keys on the keyboard or rolling the mouse also has no effect. The only thing that has worked so far is refreshing the desktop using Powerstrip (I created a hotkey combination).

Has anyone else run into this problem or something similar? Does anyone have any suggestions? Is it a TV problem? Or a video card problem? Or maybe even a cable problem?

Am I bettter served by purchasing ATI's dvi-to-component dongle and using the TV's component inputs instead? Thanks for any help/suggestions! :)

No green skin tones on my 47X54 at all. In fact on some inputs, I have to set the tint to 36 or so in order to tame the reds a bit. What color temp are you using? And do you have "Natural Color" turned off?

Hello to all:

I know this is the x54 thread and I have a "wx" model but this seemed to be the best place to ask for help in regards to the problem I'm having.

I've recently repurposed a computer to do some "TIVO-style" work and and things look pretty good. It's hooked up to the DVI-D input on the Pt-53wx54 and I've been able to compensate enough for the inevitable overscan.

My only trouble is whenever I turn the TV off and then back on, the DVI input loses the video signal. It still has audio but no picture whatsoever. Changing the duration between turning the tv off then on again has no effect. Pressing keys on the keyboard or rolling the mouse also has no effect. The only thing that has worked so far is refreshing the desktop using Powerstrip (I created a hotkey combination).

Has anyone else run into this problem or something similar? Does anyone have any suggestions? Is it a TV problem? Or a video card problem? Or maybe even a cable problem?

Am I bettter served by purchasing ATI's dvi-to-component dongle and using the TV's component inputs instead? Thanks for any help/suggestions! :)


Try the HTPC forum - my guess is that it's a video card issue since it's trying to communicate with an input that's lost power. Connecting via component would be one way to avoid this problem all together (if it is in fact the problem).

I'm having trouble with the screen being properly framed. On DVDs, there's a slight spot in the lower left that the screen doesn't completely fill, and the same in the upper right. For GameCube games, it's all across the board -- some games are framed well, while others have large amount of black space. On Xbox, I think everything is framed fine. What can I do to make sure that every input is framed properly?

Have you used a calibration disc yet?

Yes... there's nothing about properly framing the screen.

Can't find any discussion of this topic (and I'm a little surprised -- sorry if I'm rehashing an old issue)...

I have a 1080i upscaling DVD player, and when I send a 1080i upscaled signal to the x54 it automatically locks into the HD color scale. This causes noticeable problems with the greens, and perhaps other less obvious issues. Is there anyway to send a 1080i signal to the x54 and yet have it preserve the SD color scale?

Can't find any discussion of this topic (and I'm a little surprised -- sorry if I'm rehashing an old issue)...

Is there anyway to send a 1080i signal to the x54 and yet have it preserve the SD color scale?

No.

You should use a calibration disk like DVE or Avia though.

I need help please.

I wrote settings down on paper. The paper was destroyed in a small fire. I would be grateful to a kind soul who could give me the default seetings for, or point me to the defaults for:

hpos
hwid
pcc
trap
btmg
topg
heht
vamp
vc
vg
veht

Please help!

Max

I need help please.

I wrote settings down on paper. The paper was destroyed in a small fire. I would be grateful to a kind soul who could give me the default seetings for, or point me to the defaults for:

hpos
hwid
pcc
trap
btmg
topg
heht
vamp
vc
vg
veht

Please help!

Max


I have them for the 53X54J... Does anyone know if they are the same? If so, do you want the 1080i or 480 defaults?

-AKH

It's worth a shot, thanks. The 480 defaults would be great!

Max

hpos 04 32
hwid 8A
pcc 55
trap 81
btmg 58
topg 5A
heht
vamp 9B
vc 88
vg
veht

The one's I left blank are not settings (at least not names) that are listed in my manual.

-AKH

Hi,

I've had this model for a bit over a year now and recently I've noticed some kind of yellow burn-in/stain areas in the middle of the screen. Anyone else had this happen to them ?

Thanks for your help.

Sade

Hi,

I've had this model for a bit over a year now and recently I've noticed some kind of yellow burn-in/stain areas in the middle of the screen. Anyone else had this happen to them ?

Thanks for your help.

Sade
What are you Brightness/Picture settings? Did you ever calibrate your TV with a test disc such as Avia, Video Essentials, or a THX Optimizer? Ever leave static images on screen for long periods of time?

What are you Brightness/Picture settings? Did you ever calibrate your TV with a test disc such as Avia, Video Essentials, or a THX Optimizer? Ever leave static images on screen for long periods of time?

I usually use the pre-defined settings (Standard/Cinema/...). I thought "burn-in" issues are for Plasma TVs only :(

I only see these "areas" when the picture is white or light.

Sade

A yellowish stain doesn't sound like burn-in (although burn-in definitely is an issue for CRT-RPTVs).

Don't freak-out. This may just be due to the fact that you're using the standard pre-sets. They suck. You must change them!

Everyone's settings will be a bit different, even if all the associated equipment is the same. I'll suggest a starting point, but these may be way off from ideal settings on your Panny:

Color: 29
Tint: 28
Brightness: 35
Picture (contrast): 14
Sharpness: 0

Turn all other picture mode settings to "off" except for Image Shift.

The image will appear darker, less contrasty, and with desaturated colors compared to what you've been viewing. It will not be perfect, but it will be way closer than the presets. If you can get your hands on Digital Video Essentials or Avia test discs, use these to optimize your settings. If you can't get access to these, find/rent a disc with the "THX Optimizer" extra, and use that to calibrate.

Then, do the auto-convergence, and then the user menu 9-point convergence.

One final bit of advice: TONE DOWN THE PICTURE SETTING IMMEDIATELY!!!! The presets have it at dangerously high levels. This is the prime cause of burn-in.

Rich,

I set one of my settings (VIVID) to properly display 1080i sources. That way when the TV locks onto the HD colour scale, I change the display setting to VIVID and voila- the proper black, white, colour levels as set by DVE.

This works for me, let me know if you come up with another way.

Cheers.

Can't find any discussion of this topic (and I'm a little surprised -- sorry if I'm rehashing an old issue)...

I have a 1080i upscaling DVD player, and when I send a 1080i upscaled signal to the x54 it automatically locks into the HD color scale. This causes noticeable problems with the greens, and perhaps other less obvious issues. Is there anyway to send a 1080i signal to the x54 and yet have it preserve the SD color scale?

- while in 9 point convergence, the 3,6,9 to the right of screen too far right
- using comcast the program annoucements at the bottom are too low
- in on demand, the screen seems too far to the left

Overall it seems all sides are too far off the edge.

I have done auto converge and 9 point converge...any other ideas?

Mojo,

It seems that you're not happy with your overscan. I adjusted mine while I was in the service menu screwing around.... then when I got out I had a different problem.... the screen was somewhat compressed at the middle, but not at the edges creating a wave-like effect when the screenshot was panning.

I fiddled with this about 10 months ago, so sorry if I don't remember all the details. I ended up at a print shop printing the 47" panny convergence grid from panny.tv on a large enough paper to do it right.

Anyway.... I took my overscan down to 1%, but now the problem is when the sceen shifts occur (that prevent burn in), I can see where the image stops. It is a black border... about 1 cm accross the bottom / side...whatever, it's something that I can live with.

I'm happy with the picture though, getting all the information is important to me, but if I was going to do it again, I would bring the overscan down to 2-3%.

If you're going to play around with the size, bla bla bla options in the service menu, I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you get a copy of the convergence grid FIRST, to save time so you only have to do it once.

It's a bit of work to get it right.

Hope this helps.

- while in 9 point convergence, the 3,6,9 to the right of screen too far right
- using comcast the program annoucements at the bottom are too low
- in on demand, the screen seems too far to the left

Overall it seems all sides are too far off the edge.

I have done auto converge and 9 point converge...any other ideas?

I got up this morning and things were back to normal!

However, I left from 12pm and when I got back home the problem was back

It almost looks like its collapsing in the middle

ALSO, my 9 point conversionm seems to be off constantly, and I have to adjust frequently

BadMojo, have you changed anything in the service menu (like resizing or shifting the image)?

Speaking of the Service Menu, after about a year with the x54, I finally worked up the nerve to go in and take a look around. The procedure on page one of this thread is not entirely accurate, but will get you there if you ignore certain steps. A few followup posts fill in some of the blanks, but it seems we don't have a collective repository of knowledge on all things Service Menu (even down to the proper steps of getting into it).

And once you're in, it's not entirely clear how to do certain things! For example, a poster mentioned that in "Fine" convergence mode, text will come up to tell you what color/s you're correcting, but I haven't seen that nor been able to identify a button that will display it. Likewise, someone mentioned that you can display the point values as you correct (presumably x and y-axis variables), but I haven't found that either. This would be great to know, because you can take them all down and restore the original values if you screw-up.

And I suppose no one's cracked the red push thing yet? One post suggests merely dialing back on the red, but I don't think that will do it. It's my understanding that it would be a combination of several changes -- values other than just "red" -- just like the red push fix on the previous Panny model on pannytv.com.

And does anyone know what precisely one is to do in the "Coarse" convergence mode? Do we just line up the lines with the bezel marks on the cabinet of the x54, as one poster suggested (after having guessed that this was the intent)?

So what was the result of my very minor messing about in the service menu? A notably better picture. I changed no parameters other than two in the "Fine" convergence mode: first, what appeared to be adjusting for Red (around the white cross hatches -- the very first option in the Fine convergence mode), and second, what appeared to be adjusting for light blue (I believe this is the third option in the fine convergence). I used only "orig. point" mode for all changes. I accidentally was in another mode at one point, and found that it was screwing up the convergence... I merely exited out without saving changes and made damn sure I was only in "Orig. Point" mode thereafter. I mostly adjusted red, as it was obvious the changes I made, and I hesitated to make any but the most obvious correction in blue as it was more difficult to assess the changes I was making.

The upshot of this very minor fiddling? I've nearly eliminated the blue and red fringing that I'd see around objects against a white background, which previously was most obvious around the edges of the screen, and even slightly bordering the pillarbox bars of 4x3 material. This alone was a great improvement.

I wonder if anyone can recommend where I might look next to help guide me through the many variables in the service menu? Particularly course convergence, fine convergence, and a fix for the red push? Can I order a service manual, and will this take me through all the various screens and adjustments in the service menu?

And, finally, let me suggest a really easy tweak that most of you have probably thought of before... First, I've never been satisfied with black-and-white transfers on the x54. Like many of you, I have set the viewing mode to "cinema" with the corresponding "warm" color temperature as this is the closest to correct of any out-of-box setting. But given the tendency toward reddish/pinkish hue in low level scenes, black-and-white has never looked all that good to me. So, I switched over to the "Standard" viewing mode with its corresponding "normal" color temperature for black-and-white viewing only. This tends to remove the more sepia/pinkish cast while adding a bit of blue (though not way too much blue like "cool" temperature mode). Then, I dialed back "color" and "tint" all the way to zero. A:Bing against my usual "cinema" mode shows a great deal of improvement for black-and-white transfers (I used Criterion's "Pickpocket" and "Au hasard Balthazar" and Warner Bros. remastered "Strangers on a Train" for comparison).

BadMojo, have you changed anything in the service menu (like resizing or shifting the image)?

.

I have changed nothing in the service menu

Haha BTW I was happy with my 'overscan' but it seems like it suddenly has a mind of its own

Hopefully that's not the case! Having read some of the troubles people have faced adjusting for overscan, I decided I could live with it 'as is', even though the right side is overscanned a bit more than the left.

I'm at a loss as to what may be causing this problem for you. Was it completely spontaneous? Did it follow any adjustments you made?

I know I had a lot of questions in my previous post, but perhaps someone might answer just one: would the Service Manual provide me with all I need to know?

BadMojo, have you changed anything in the service menu (like resizing or shifting the image)?

Speaking of the Service Menu, after about a year with the x54, I finally worked up the nerve to go in and take a look around. The procedure on page one of this thread is not entirely accurate, but will get you there if you ignore certain steps. A few followup posts fill in some of the blanks, but it seems we don't have a collective repository of knowledge on all things Service Menu (even down to the proper steps of getting into it).

And once you're in, it's not entirely clear how to do certain things! For example, a poster mentioned that in "Fine" convergence mode, text will come up to tell you what color/s you're correcting, but I haven't seen that nor been able to identify a button that will display it. Likewise, someone mentioned that you can display the point values as you correct (presumably x and y-axis variables), but I haven't found that either. This would be great to know, because you can take them all down and restore the original values if you screw-up.

And I suppose no one's cracked the red push thing yet? One post suggests merely dialing back on the red, but I don't think that will do it. It's my understanding that it would be a combination of several changes -- values other than just "red" -- just like the red push fix on the previous Panny model on pannytv.com.

And does anyone know what precisely one is to do in the "Coarse" convergence mode? Do we just line up the lines with the bezel marks on the cabinet of the x54, as one poster suggested (after having guessed that this was the intent)?

So what was the result of my very minor messing about in the service menu? A notably better picture. I changed no parameters other than two in the "Fine" convergence mode: first, what appeared to be adjusting for Red (around the white cross hatches -- the very first option in the Fine convergence mode), and second, what appeared to be adjusting for light blue (I believe this is the third option in the fine convergence). I used only "orig. point" mode for all changes. I accidentally was in another mode at one point, and found that it was screwing up the convergence... I merely exited out without saving changes and made damn sure I was only in "Orig. Point" mode thereafter. I mostly adjusted red, as it was obvious the changes I made, and I hesitated to make any but the most obvious correction in blue as it was more difficult to assess the changes I was making.

The upshot of this very minor fiddling? I've nearly eliminated the blue and red fringing that I'd see around objects against a white background, which previously was most obvious around the edges of the screen, and even slightly bordering the pillarbox bars of 4x3 material. This alone was a great improvement.

I wonder if anyone can recommend where I might look next to help guide me through the many variables in the service menu? Particularly course convergence, fine convergence, and a fix for the red push? Can I order a service manual, and will this take me through all the various screens and adjustments in the service menu?

And, finally, let me suggest a really easy tweak that most of you have probably thought of before... First, I've never been satisfied with black-and-white transfers on the x54. Like many of you, I have set the viewing mode to "cinema" with the corresponding "warm" color temperature as this is the closest to correct of any out-of-box setting. But given the tendency toward reddish/pinkish hue in low level scenes, black-and-white has never looked all that good to me. So, I switched over to the "Standard" viewing mode with its corresponding "normal" color temperature for black-and-white viewing only. This tends to remove the more sepia/pinkish cast while adding a bit of blue (though not way too much blue like "cool" temperature mode). Then, I dialed back "color" and "tint" all the way to zero. A:Bing against my usual "cinema" mode shows a great deal of improvement for black-and-white transfers (I used Criterion's "Pickpocket" and "Au hasard Balthazar" and Warner Bros. remastered "Strangers on a Train" for comparison).
I've been in contact with the owner of panny.tv in regards to an update to the site that would include the information on properly adjusting the color decoder (which would fix red push), posting of the service manual for the WX53 and X54 series TVs, and a few other tid bits you may find useful. Stay tuned.

Hopefully that's not the case! Having read some of the troubles people have faced adjusting for overscan, I decided I could live with it 'as is', even though the right side is overscanned a bit more than the left.

I'm at a loss as to what may be causing this problem for you. Was it completely spontaneous? Did it follow any adjustments you made?

I know I had a lot of questions in my previous post, but perhaps someone might answer just one: would the Service Manual provide me with all I need to know?

Thanks again for responding.

The only changes I ever make is when I check the 9 point converge every once in a while. Like I said, I found out when I noticed the Comcast guide at the bottom was too low, the on demand bubbles were too far to the left, and the 3,6,9 of the 9 point converge were way too far right. So I have to assume all 4 sides are slightly off. I admit it is annoying but I can live with it (like you said) if I have to.

Like I said, the problem went away for half a day it seemed but came back and is now looking permanent.

I even had a crazy idea about switching dvr boxes (I haven't tried this yet but may tonight) just for the heck of it and see if any change is noticed. After all, Comcast is evil.

I have a few questions. I am still experiencing this....

++++Like I said, I found out when I noticed the Comcast guide at the bottom was too low, the on demand bubbles were too far to the left, and the 3,6,9 of the 9 point converge were way too far right. So I have to assume all 4 sides are slightly off. ++++

I am wondering, is there a "reset to factory settings" or trying a different mode instead of "just"? Like Full zoom, normal ect?

The problem does not seem as bad when viewing non digital and non HDTV channels...

Any cable box adjustments that could be the cause?

Just some rambling stabs in the dark...

I have a few questions. I am still experiencing this....

++++Like I said, I found out when I noticed the Comcast guide at the bottom was too low, the on demand bubbles were too far to the left, and the 3,6,9 of the 9 point converge were way too far right. So I have to assume all 4 sides are slightly off. ++++

I am wondering, is there a "reset to factory settings" or trying a different mode instead of "just"? Like Full zoom, normal ect?

The problem does not seem as bad when viewing non digital and non HDTV channels...

Any cable box adjustments that could be the cause?

Just some rambling stabs in the dark...

I would try switching the cable box to a different input to see if maybe the problem is isolated to just the one input. I am under the impression that the TV's setting are unique to the input. Realize, this is my rambling stab in the dark.

So I have had a Panasonic 47WX53 for awhile now and recently it has been having problems displaying stuff in 480p. I am able to see the picture and make out what it is, but pretty much the only color shown is red. However, when displaying things in standard definition it looks perfectly fine.

I have tried all of the inputs (both of the component ins with my ps2 and dvd player and the DVI-D in with my computer) and the same problem occurs; a red screen. I'm not sure when or how this occured because when I orginally purchased it the picture in 480p was fine. I don't think interference is a problem because I have even taken the HDTV out of the media room and isolated it in another room with just the TV and an output device.

Basically what I am looking for is if anyone has ever had any similar experiences to this or if you can think of any troubleshooting methods I should try out. Thanks in advance!

I have noticed that when I do the 9 point convergence on the first test (the one where you line up the green line on the left and the top) that I can make adjustments up and down, and right, but when I try and move the line to the left it doesn't move past the notch on the top of the frame.

If you can get your hands on a DVE calibration disk they have a test pattern that will show the overscan. My 47x54J shows 5% on the right and close to 0% on the left. It sounds as if you are experiencing much greater than 5% on the right. If you are, you may have to get a service tech in to fix it.

anyone tips on the screen restack (aka "the flip")? I tried to do mine (which is the slightly different PT-53TW53 model) the other day after seeing the amazing results on a friend's Hitachi set, but unfortunately the first two layers of the screen were stuck together. If I went ahead with the restack with the fresnel and lenticular screens out of order, everything looked absolutely horrible and was completely unwatchable. Off-axis light output was completely thrown off. I tried to pull them apart, but it wasn't coming easily, so I aborted that idea.

Have you seen BadMojo11's instructions here.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5662019&&#post5662019
He indicated it was difficult to separate the screens.

Have you seen BadMojo11's instructions here.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5662019&&#post5662019
He indicated it was difficult to separate the screens.
I did, although the difficulty he mentions is not at the same point I'm having trouble. Here's what he wrote:

14] Now, you need to lift out the three layers of the screen which are attached together with tape. They may be stuck to the top of the plastic "container" they're in , but you should be able to pull them out with a bit of effort
15] Now you'll see there's the protective screen, a thin grid-like screen, and a plastic back (in that order)
16] Take the protective screen off the front of the three, and put it at the back so it's against the plastic back. Now the grid-like screen should be at the front. Make sure all the screens are still facing the same direction (i.e. front is facing front still)
I'm having trouble separating the actual 3 layers of the screen. The grid and protective screens are firmly stuck together, while the 3rd plastic layer separates right away with minimal effort (there was tape holding the plastic screen on, but it let go easily).

Mike, or anyone else,

Having some Convergence problems now:

This is from the Official (non-tweak) Panny x54 thread:

mikea28,

thanks for the info and anything further you might be able to add, especially regarding my post, or anyone else that wants to add.

For panny.tv do you think my set would look better adjusting for the "Red Push".


I've owned my PT53WX54 set for a good 1.5 + yrs now. And last week was the first time I'd been in the service mode. I'd done VE stuff and minor changes, but nothing major.

Well I effed it up big time. For whatever reason, namely haste, I accidenly "CLEARED" my 1080i settings in convergence. I hit button 6 or 9 or whatever it is to CLEAR settings and confirmed...OUCH.

Really jacked my TV up. I did take all the settings down prior, but that has nothing to do with the convergence. So needless to say the guns were not lined up anywhere close. Then I tried to do the Copying EXT/INT stuff, to see if I could get stuff closer than it was, I then effed up my 480p settings.

Well since then I've litterally spent 10+ hours trying to get things back to normal/better. And actually the bulk of my picture, 2 inches from the border and in, the picture does look better, because I got all of the convergence pretty good. But my borders are still not perfect. Have a little bleeding of blue and red. and Even some picture either overlapping or no picture at all in small places. And I did all of this by "EYE" I do not have a templete.

I believe it's the SKEW, PIN, etc.. settings in the COARSE adjustment.


Anyone have any ideas on how to go about fixing these settings? The steps, what I need to line it up with etc...Do I need the templete to do truly correct this?

And now after my debacle, I am noticing on the top two most right and left lines of my red grid, are curving upwards, and nothing I do to adjust them are getting them straight. Suggestions?

Finally, I could return this TV to Costco, because of their great return policy, but I don't think I'll find anything with the same picture for the price.

Thanks in advance to anyone that can help.

Dave

PROBLEM

HI, i have a pt47x54. Its only a couple months old. I havent messed with any of the convergence settings yet...just auto converged. However, from the beginning it has been set to cinema mode to avoid burn -in


Anyways, yesterday when turning off my TV i noticed a red mark flash on the around the right bottom hand corner everytime i turn off the TV. Its looks kind of like a paint brush slash its around 1 inch long and thin and i tryed off/on with diff aspects and on black screen and all...but the same thing happens.
When i press power off on TV the picture disappears and just in the last sec after red indicator goes off a red bright slash appears in the same area everytime.

Never happened before.

SO i just turned it off for now... let it rest and gonna see how it is tommrw

ANYONE know what the prob might be?

home theater spot they will usually have an answer to any question you may have. hope this helps just google home theater spot

Anyone have their 53x54 ISF calibrated?

Anyone have their 53x54 ISF calibrated?


I have the 47x54 and I am debating whether or not to calibrate mine is it worth the coast.

Rob

I have the 47x54 and I am debating whether or not to calibrate mine is it worth the coast.

Rob

I'm wondering the same thing. Is the service menu convergence really that hard to do? I'm guessing that's the part that will make the most difference.

I'm wondering the same thing. Is the service menu convergence really that hard to do? I'm guessing that's the part that will make the most difference.


I have heard horror stories on this forum about people screwing up the whole tv by going into the Service Menu. I choose not too since my pic is pretty good. I have used the monster calibration software and it has improved my picture. I usually just do the Auto convergence and the 9 point convergence in the user manual and it looks good.


Rob

I'm wondering the same thing. Is the service menu convergence really that hard to do? I'm guessing that's the part that will make the most difference.
yeah this is very important and not that hard if you take your time and be careful. If you're comfortable with a PC BIOS (for example), you should be comfortable in the service menu. Just write down all your settings, don't change anything that you don't understand, and take your time. If you're even the slightest bit unsure, consult a pro.

Hello all! I've owned a 47wx53 for 3 years and finally worked up the guts to go into the service menu. I did this succesfully however I'm not sure how to navigate once in there. My main concern is the Red Push on the tv. Convergence is ok and I would rather have a professional touch that however (after writing down default settings) I really would like to try settings suggested on the Pannytv site for correcting red push. When in the SM how does one select the resolution (480i, 480p, 1080i etc) to correct? Does one use the toggle on the remote? Also if anyone has other recommended settings to correct red push it would be greatly appreciated.

Hello all! I've owned a 47wx53 for 3 years and finally worked up the guts to go into the service menu. I did this succesfully however I'm not sure how to navigate once in there. My main concern is the Red Push on the tv. Convergence is ok and I would rather have a professional touch that however (after writing down default settings) I really would like to try settings suggested on the Pannytv site for correcting red push. When in the SM how does one select the resolution (480i, 480p, 1080i etc) to correct? Does one use the toggle on the remote? Also if anyone has other recommended settings to correct red push it would be greatly appreciated.
the settings on the panny.tv site for correcting red push are wrong! you really need to do color decoding adjustments with a proper calibration disc and the appropriate service menu settings, preferably (IMO) with the user controls centered. I started working on updates for the panny.tv site to correct a number of errors there, as well as to add some additional information, but Brett (the panny.tv owner) quit responding to my emails. If you search those forums, you can find some pretty good info. I'd post the stuff I wrote up already, but it's on my laptop that's not immediately available for the time being.

The selected resolution is based on the current inputs resolution. So you'll need 480i, 480p, and 1080i sources to calibrate all resolutions. Most SM settings are independant for each resolution if I remember correctly (tint, color, contrast), but others are global (the ones related to grayscale). You have virtually no options with an HDMI/DVI input btw.

The instructions for navigating are on the panny.tv site. Download the service manual as well for some additional details.

I recently bought this used and it works great but I want to get into service mode to fine tune the convergence. I tried to get into it with the post at the beginning of this thread but get stuck at tuning to channel 124. If someone could email me instructions I'd begrateful. Ive gone through the 9 pt convergence and the picture looks good but when there are menus like programming guides or scrolling words along the bottom or top the colors are not aligned well. any help is appreciated.

Thanks
Rick

The instructions at the beginning of the thread work. First you have to have the input set to the TV tuner and then go to the 2nd page of the setup menu options and set Mode to Cable. ie Menu -> Setup -> Other Adj->Mode->Cable. You can change to the input you want after you get into the service menu.

Has anyone had the problem of adjusting for red push (on panny.tv web site) and after making the adjustments the color looks perfect in a 1080i signal (HD), but when you go to a 480i (SD) signal the color is totally off? The blues are purple, and there is an overdrive of green. This is when using component cable from my cable box. (Comcast HD box.)

To make it more complicated(or less maybe), when using the DVI input on my TV, both the 480i and the 1080i signals have normal color without any problems.

I have not yet tried using my DVD player to see if the color is wierded out coming from that. Can anyone help explain why this is occuring? I would guess it has something to do with the signal coming from the cable box, but am not 100% sure. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks very much.

Greg

the settings on the panny.tv site for correcting red push are wrong! you really need to do color decoding adjustments with a proper calibration disc and the appropriate service menu settings, preferably (IMO) with the user controls centered. I started working on updates for the panny.tv site to correct a number of errors there, as well as to add some additional information, but Brett (the panny.tv owner) quit responding to my emails. If you search those forums, you can find some pretty good info. I'd post the stuff I wrote up already, but it's on my laptop that's not immediately available for the time being.

The selected resolution is based on the current inputs resolution. So you'll need 480i, 480p, and 1080i sources to calibrate all resolutions. Most SM settings are independant for each resolution if I remember correctly (tint, color, contrast), but others are global (the ones related to grayscale). You have virtually no options with an HDMI/DVI input btw.

The instructions for navigating are on the panny.tv site. Download the service manual as well for some additional details.

I would like to see the info you have on red push when you have it available. The red push bugs me a lot. Getting rid of it would be a big help. Did you get the tweaks for both 1080iand 480i? Please let us know. Thanks mikea38.

Greg

what is the proper way to get into service mode in PT-53TW53 tv. In panny.tv site it says:

set mode to cable
set sleep to 30
press action twice to exit the menu
go to channel 124
set volume to 0 and press volume down

problem is I cant exit menu by hitting action twice. I need to press channel up button to exit the menu. And the service menu doesnt show up. Is there any other way to get the service menu in 53TW53 tv?

what is the proper way to get into service mode in PT-53TW53 tv. In panny.tv site it says:

set mode to cable
set sleep to 30
press action twice to exit the menu
go to channel 124
set volume to 0 and press volume down

problem is I cant exit menu by hitting action twice. I need to press channel up button to exit the menu. And the service menu doesnt show up. Is there any other way to get the service menu in 53TW53 tv?

Except for the funky instruction about exiting the service menu the only part that may give you a problem is to set the volume to 0 using the remote then press the volume down (left button) on the panny, not the remote. Look at the earlier post by nohjy of 9-29-04. Instead of exiting the menu using the funky instruction, exit as you normally would Action->ChUP

what is the proper way to get into service mode in PT-53TW53 tv. In panny.tv site it says:

set mode to cable
set sleep to 30
press action twice to exit the menu
go to channel 124
set volume to 0 and press volume down

problem is I cant exit menu by hitting action twice. I need to press channel up button to exit the menu. And the service menu doesnt show up. Is there any other way to get the service menu in 53TW53 tv?
are you pressing volume down on the set itself (ie not the remote)? it's ok to use up to exit the menu, it'll still work. i have a 53tw53 as well, so trust me on this one :)

Hi guys,

I have the panny 53" it's a little over 3 yrs old I think. It's hooked up to a panny RP82 player with component cable and I run it in progressive mode. I am very comfortable getting into the service mode and have done coarse and fine convergence 3 or 4 times since I've had the set. I've also done the manual and electronic focusing. The only problem I think I have that's keeps the picture from being perfect are some artifacts that look a bit like ghosting you might see on standard def tv. I'm hoping you can see the attached pic. If you look between the yellow and blue bars, on the blue side, you can see the faint "ghost'. I don't know if this has any other term. Also between the green and magenta, on the magenta side, you can see 3 of these lines. I wouldn't worry about this so much, but these things appear during movies that are supposed to have excellent transfers such as Lord of the Rings. Most of these appear along straight lines. It really bothers me in shots of blue sky along the top of the picture where it meets the black bar. I can take a photo of that if I need to. Any clues how to make these disappear or am I just gonna have to live with them? Thanks.

Hi guys,

I have the panny 53" it's a little over 3 yrs old I think. It's hooked up to a panny RP82 player with component cable and I run it in progressive mode. I am very comfortable getting into the service mode and have done coarse and fine convergence 3 or 4 times since I've had the set. I've also done the manual and electronic focusing. The only problem I think I have that's keeps the picture from being perfect are some artifacts that look a bit like ghosting you might see on standard def tv. I'm hoping you can see the attached pic. If you look between the yellow and blue bars, on the blue side, you can see the faint "ghost'. I don't know if this has any other term. Also between the green and magenta, on the magenta side, you can see 3 of these lines. I wouldn't worry about this so much, but these things appear during movies that are supposed to have excellent transfers such as Lord of the Rings. Most of these appear along straight lines. It really bothers me in shots of blue sky along the top of the picture where it meets the black bar. I can take a photo of that if I need to. Any clues how to make these disappear or am I just gonna have to live with them? Thanks.
this looks like a ringing issue - make sure you have VSM turned off and sharpness adjusted appropriately. At least one calibrator has suggested turning *ON* the noise reduction circuitry for these sets, which is counterintuitive to what we generally hear about less processing being better. I forget the explanation, but it helps to reduce ringing artifacts somehow. other than that, i'm out of ideas...

I completely screwed up my geometry and convergence. Does anybody know what the factory default HREF, HPOS, PCC, TRAP, BTMG, TPMG, etc are for a pt47x54??? Also, is there any way to RESET everything back to the way the set looked when it shipped to me??? I’m desperate here. Any help is greatly appreciated.

mikea posted this about a year ago earlier in this thread, hope it helps.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7118430&&#post7118430

Does anyone know where exactly the IR sensor is located?

I would be forever grateful for advice! I have a Panasonic CT-34WX54. I also just got an Apple TV, which is connected via HDMI. The Apple TV has made it apparent that I have a problem with overscan.

First I played a ripped movie on the Apple TV, and noticed that I wasn't seeing quite a bit of the picture. I would have just lived with this, however... I next tried to play a video that has burned-in subtitles, and 2/3 of the bottom line of the subtitling is not visible. Watching it and trying to figure out what the subtitles said made my head hurt.

I am new to all this, so it took me a while to learn that this cropping is called overscan, that it is normal, etc. etc. I took the time to read almost all of this thread, and I even printed out how to get to the service menu and went to the service menu, but then I was terrified so I exited out.

Anyway, my question is, can someone please tell me what specific parameter it is that I need to adjust in the service menu to get a few more lines at the bottom of the screen?

Hello all, I Need some Help with My Panny PT-47wx53. Powers On . But Just as the screen Starts to apear it Shuts Down and the Red Light Flashes 3 times. I Have a Idea Maybe My 1 Year old Grandson Touched the Buttons in front when i was out of the Room, Any Help would Be Great.

Try pulling the plug for a few minutes and then plug it back in and try to power up. Hope that works.

Thanks.
Got it to reset .Now the Convergence Is Way Off . The Blue. Sounds Like i Need a Tech out for some repairs. Any More help would be Great.
Thanks Again

Hello,

I realize that this is an old thread, but I have a 53X54 and in my efforts to fix up the fine convergence, I messed up all the rest of the geometry settings, specifically, the screen height and various "stretches" I cannot seem to get back to a perfect circle with my Avia disc... Can anyone tell me what the default settings for my model are... I found them in this thread, but the numbers are not even close to my unit. I do not have settings this high on my tv. the highest they go is 3f... I also need to know how to set the V-S and horizontal Width and stretch... Should I be doing this in 4:3 mode with the Avia disk, or do I use the widescreen enhanced avia test patterns and set the tv to full?

Not achievable on my set below...
vamp 9B
vc 88

The model # on my set is PT-53WX54 and I do not have an auto-convergence feature

Thanks in advance!

Richard

:mad:I lost the picture on my 47X54. If I leave it up unplugged for a few minutes and plug it back in the power LED comes on for 2-3 seconds then flashes. Any way I can troubleshoot further? The Panasonic rep said this was possibly a blown bulb. Is that a do it yourself job?

thank to this great thread i was able to determine that our pt-53wx54j is throwing red all over

the tv was working good just watching dish network few hours a day and then this...
http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/9821/shittvsq7.jpg

is this a convergence problem that can be fixed in the 'fine' service mode?
i tried pushing the lines around with the 'mute' button etc, but it wouldnt pull the red boxes straight... so i stopped to take pictures before i really destroyed it..

can anyone give me some pointers? since it happened for no reason how do i know if its a convergence issure or component failure?

cheers. :)
http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/5496/reddeh0.jpg
http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/6009/alldh2.jpg

meh sounds like a blown circuit from my further research...

http://www.***************.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/137821/

grrr...

and diy for 10$ woohoo

http://cmpalmer.blogspot.com/2006/11/fixing-my-own-tv-part-ii.html

meh sounds like a blown circuit from my further research...
My pt47x54 has a similar-looking problem, sometimes. So far, it's been enough to turn it off then on, and it comes back with convergence looking ok. It's happened several times after the set has been turned off for a while. Also, perhaps related, the picture looks washed out for a half hour or so after it's turned on. I've just stopped turning it off -- instead, at the end of watching, I turn "picture" and "brightness" controls all the way down, to save the screen.

I have the 53x54 and whites flicker. It seems to flicker between color temps, blue/red maybe but I'm not sure. I'm seeing this on the HDMI, Antenna, and Component inputs so it does not seem to be the source as each sourse is different. Does anyone have any ideas on where to start troubleshooting?

there is a black box on the screen that just came on and i don't know what caused it...i don't think i touched the remote

manual says change closed captioning to text mode

can anyone tell me how to turn on the closed caption? when i go to menu/setup, i can not access the "cc on mute, cc mode", because they are greyed out

i know this thread might be dead but hopefully somebody can help me

never mind...i rebooted my dvr and everything is back to normal

hi ... I've seen this problem in pay tech sites from a number of people so I'm thinking its a common problem. Wanted to check a forum first, before going to a pay site.
My pt47wx53 will run perfect for various lengths of time then shut down...
the shut down seems to be most often durning high volume explosive scenes on the video. [might be coincedental].
the led then flashes once for about half a second every 3 and a half seconds.
if I unplug then re plug I can start it up again
it runs for less time but normally long enough to finish watching whatever movie I'm watching.
turning it off before it turns itself off seems to let it cool sufficiently to run a few hours later for a couple of hours then it shuts down again.
[I suspect something is overheating]

am wondering if a cooling fan might help somewhere though I don't really want the extra noise.

any help will be appreciated.

HELP!

So the overscan on my TV has gotten pretty darn bad... I can get into the service menu, but I have no idea where I am supposed to go for the overscan fix options.

If a kindly soul would guide an absolute (and scared) noob for modifying the position settings, I would super greatly appreciate it. Let me send my thanx in advance!

-jonny

HELP!

So the overscan on my TV has gotten pretty darn bad... I can get into the service menu, but I have no idea where I am supposed to go for the overscan fix options.

If a kindly soul would guide an absolute (and scared) noob for modifying the position settings, I would super greatly appreciate it. Let me send my thanx in advance!

-jonny

I'm having the same issue with mine.

If you attempt to adjust for overscan, you will throw off your convergence. So you have to know enough about these things to readjust your set's convergence after adjusting the overscan.

Go back to posts #218 & #236 in this thread for more info.

Otherwise this response is a bump to a Good Ol' Thread about a nice CRT - RPTV of yesteryear.

i agree ive had my 53x54 for 5 years pic is still stunning (with the right sources 1080i blu ray) ive seen this set surpass lcd s and some plasmas that are way past its price piont.

by color adjustments im guessing you are refering to tint, brightness,picture etc if so find a good refrence source ie a dvd or blu ray with shadow and darkness and lots of color,try gladiator.then adjustfrom the middle of each setting plus or minus to get each one looking its best.

i also have this set bought it 4 years ago and it still rocks

were do i find a service manual for this set