[Thinking Out Loud]
Surely it looks at a separate [binary field/flag] and is not searching for "new" in the description text field.
[/TOL]

v/r,
C-F
Possiblemente. It's all speculation anyway. :)

Properly constructed software would deal with a separate field; there's tons more flexibility that way. My guess is they are only looking for the word "new" in the program description (speculation yes, but based on my experience as a software developer and the "state" of their software, an "educated" speculation). Then again, this data comes from a third party, so it's also possible it comes that way; I'd be very surprised at that, but there's a lot of stuff that I scratch my head over that large companies do.

In 6 months of doing series recordings, it's seems reasonably accurate (sort of, there are some cable shows that don't include the information at all, so "new" shows are never tagged that way). Pain in the butt because some of those do multiple broadcasts so you have to do a lot of work cleaning things up.

This is part of a larger issue. And it's hard to pin it on anyone because there is some info we lack. First, this information about "shows" is metadata (so we get out terms straight). We know that TWC contracts with TV Guide for this information. We know that TV Guide DOES have more/better information available. We don't know if they will only sell a subset, or that TWC buys a "lesser" set because it's cheaper. Both are very plausible.

We know that TWC only supplies the current plus next 5 days; we know TV Guide has more. Again, is it TWC buying a cheaper package or TV Guide only selling the "lesser" package.

One piece of info might be useful... where does TiVo/Replay get their metadata? Never having had either, I have no idea about how complete, but I DO know they carry more than the 6 days TWC carries. My speculation is they get it from TV Guide as well, but I'm curious if anyone knows how they get it?

We know that TWC only supplies the current plus next 5 days; we know TV Guide has more. Again, is it TWC buying a cheaper package or TV Guide only selling the "lesser" package.

Actually, there was a point (I don't know -- 3-4 years ago), that the guide used to get 13 days of information. Then with one particular Passport update that we got, the guide stopped getting information beyond 6 days in the future.

I'm sure that the number of days that the guide can "look ahead" is a setting that they control at the head-end somewhere, and someone made the decision to not allow you to page beyond more than a certain number of days.

Actually, there was a point (I don't know -- 3-4 years ago), that the guide used to get 13 days of information. Then with one particular Passport update that we got, the guide stopped getting information beyond 6 days in the future.

I'm sure that the number of days that the guide can "look ahead" is a setting that they control at the head-end somewhere, and someone made the decision to not allow you to page beyond more than a certain number of days.
My cable system gives current + six days, though for the last week or so I've only been able to look ahead a day or two.

With yours set to record ALL the shows, it would need to have "new" for all of them. Have you checked the IPG?

Pepar, Sorry. What's IPG? (Besides the marketing behomoth that I work for ?)

Pepar, Sorry. What's IPG? (Besides the marketing behomoth that I work for ?)
Interactive Program Guide - the channel listings/program descriptions.

Interactive Program Guide - the channel listings/program descriptions.

I just checked Monday's listings for those shows and they do say 'new'. Strange doings.

I just checked Monday's listings for those shows and they do say 'new'. Strange doings.
Indeed. And it may be as simple as the 8300HD "reading" the guide and recording them accordingly.

So now I've set The Daily Show and the Colbert Report to record not 'first run only' as I did previously, but at "11 pm/11:30 pm only" for the two shows. So far so good.

So of course, on Election night The Daily Show is going to have special hour-long coverage. I'm thinking, well, it's set to record one hour for the two shows anyway, so that hour should record as normal.

I check the IPG, and Tuesday night NOTHING is set to record, I presume because the show is titled "The Daily Show/Colbert Report" for that night's special coverage only. So I manually recorded it.


*sheesh*

14 days is also one of the big requests for Mystro. However, from all the speculation I've read, it could be that the limited RAM in the 8300 could preclude this... maybe.

And therein lies the rub... it seems to me that everything I've read is guesswork and speculation. Certainly very educated and believable at times, but it seems nobody really KNOWS. Like Diana Smith, I sure do wish someone from TWC engineering would participate around here...

This week 'Shark' and 'Close to Home' each recorded for 0 minutes. Recordings were made, they appeared in the recording list, but the time of the recording was from 1 minute before the hour to 1 minute before the hour. They were each scheduled to start on the hour. There was no picture and no sound recorded.

Has any one else seen this? I had seen this one or two times before. I think it has always been on the same DVR so I may have them exchange it out.

How Can I reboot or remove PPV memory in 8300HD?... I have tried most of the resets and it doesn't seem to work.

There is not a pause button on the front for reformatting.

Does anyone have the SA-8300 HD-DVR? I'm watching college football from ESPN Gameplan package and if i try to replay or rewind it says "You must record this PPV show to rewind" anyone else see anything like this on any channel? I just argued with the tech guy and tried to tell me it was a problem with my box, but it's obviously another "feature" of whatever the latest software update was, I used to be able to rewind gameplan games as i watched them, and the fact that i CAN record the game and rewind makes it very frustrating when i'm trying to flip around to five different games using two tuners, the clown said he could credit me for the DVR service, so i'll call back later and argue with a different CSR

Does anyone have the SA-8300 HD-DVR?
Well, you've (cross-)posted on the 8300HD thread, so odds are good that somebody here has one. :rolleyes:

Do not argue with the CSR's. It is a useless frustrating endeavor. Ask to speak to a supervisor and keep moving up the chain. Staying at the same uninformed level does not do you any good. Here is a funny story (absolutely true).

About 30 years ago when I was running the Telecom and IT orgs of a fortune 100 company division, I was getting poor service from AT&T. I called and no real help. Finally I started moving up the chain. It happened to be a day that the entire region service management team was at a big offsite seminar so I ended up at the desk of the President and CEO of AT&T. Well actually at the desk of his "Insulation" assistant. I asked to speak to him and she said he was not available. We talked for a while. He, the pres., must have ticked her off that day. She told me that he would be coming in very early the next day to prepare some stuff, that no one else would be in the office, and the number I called would ring through to him.

I spoke to a very surprised but "cool acting" President the next morning at 6AM. He said he would personally take care of this as he knew me by name/reputation and we were a major account (It was The Sperry Rand Corporation). Three hours later the account manager called me and grovelled for about 15 minutes. The problem was resolved 30 minutes later. I also had a new account manager a week later and she told me there were some interesting policy changes regarding offsite seminars and nobody in the office.

Lesson Learned: GO UP - NOT ACROSS

I searched the thread before posting and didn't see any answers to this question:

When I select PIP the PIP window will not go into the corners of my screen. Instead the PIP box stays within the SD area of the screen. I can hit "move" but that just moves the box into the corners of the SD area. Is there a way to make the PIP window go all the way to the edge of the screen?

thanks in advance!

I searched the thread before posting and didn't see any answers to this question:

When I select PIP the PIP window will not go into the corners of my screen. Instead the PIP box stays within the SD area of the screen. I can hit "move" but that just moves the box into the corners of the SD area. Is there a way to make the PIP window go all the way to the edge of the screen?

thanks in advance!
If you have a 16:9 display, that appears to be The Way It Works.

i've asked to go up, most of the time they just say no, very frustrating...

how can you reformat a 8300hd... or reset and lose memory

Hi all,
I have a 61FN97 which I really like so far.
I have it hooked up to a SA 8300 DVR STB via HDMI cable and a coax cable to the reciever for Dolby Digital sound. When I first got the set I was able to get Dolby Digital sound from my reciever by going into the STB menu and changing audio from HDMI to DD and I would get DD sound fine. I now cant get DD sound at all, I only get stereo sound from the reciever. Does HDMI block the DD from getting to the reciever????

how can you reformat a 8300hd... or reset and lose memory
Hook it to a different 8300HD and it will offer to format it, at which point you can reattach it to the first 8300HD, at which point that box will offer to format it. Or hook it to a PC and format it with Windoze. When reconnecting to the 8300HD, it will offer to format it.

Hi all,
I have a 61FN97 which I really like so far.
I have it hooked up to a SA 8300 DVR STB via HDMI cable and a coax cable to the reciever for Dolby Digital sound. When I first got the set I was able to get Dolby Digital sound from my reciever by going into the STB menu and changing audio from HDMI to DD and I would get DD sound fine. I now cant get DD sound at all, I only get stereo sound from the reciever. Does HDMI block the DD from getting to the reciever????
Have you gone back into settings to look how it's configured? Sometimes the boxes lose their minds. :)

Hi all,
I have a 61FN97 which I really like so far.
I have it hooked up to a SA 8300 DVR STB via HDMI cable and a coax cable to the reciever for Dolby Digital sound. When I first got the set I was able to get Dolby Digital sound from my reciever by going into the STB menu and changing audio from HDMI to DD and I would get DD sound fine. I now cant get DD sound at all, I only get stereo sound from the reciever. Does HDMI block the DD from getting to the reciever????
What you did originally is correct. If the setting is HDMI, then you'll only get 2 channel from your Receiver. You must set Audio Out to DD.

What you did originally is correct. If the setting is HDMI, then you'll only get 2 channel from your Receiver. You must set Audio Out to DD.


When I set Audio Out to DD I get no sound at all. My earlier statement was false about getting 2 channel when I select DD. I get the 2 channel when I select HDMI.

So the 8300 with HDMI cable will allow me to get DD sound as long as I go into the stb menu and select DD, right??? I guess I will check to make sure the coax cable to the receiver didnt come out.

When I set Audio Out to DD I get no sound at all. My earlier statement was false about getting 2 channel when I select DD. I get the 2 channel when I select HDMI.

So the 8300 with HDMI cable will allow me to get DD sound as long as I go into the stb menu and select DD, right??? I guess I will check to make sure the coax cable to the receiver didnt come out.

In that configuration (HDMI to TV and Coax/Optical to Receiver) I get video to TV and no sound from TV. Sound is through Receiver when setting is DD. If setting is HDMI, I get sound from both TV and Receiver/Speakers (but only 2 channel).

When you say "no sound" I'll presume you mean through Receiver/Speakers. If so, that should not be the case.

In that configuration (HDMI to TV and Coax/Optical to Receiver) I get video to TV and no sound from TV. Sound is through Receiver when setting is DD. If setting is HDMI, I get sound from both TV and Receiver/Speakers (but only 2 channel).



Yup... The current 8300 firmware isnt smart enough to be able to send 2 channel to the TV via HDMI and DD out the optical. Currently, both outputs have to be the same format. I seem to remember that with earlier fw, this did work.

The Tivo Series 3 DOES allow the HDMI and Optical out to be different (thank goodness).

Lets try to summarize what we know about the SA8300HD, HDMI and Audio. Anyone who knows facts or has information contrary to what I state please correct my submission. I am merely trying to document what we seem to be seeing as the Cable Co's and Cisco/Scientific Atlanta/Aptiva do not seem to be able to or want to document the situation.

These comments appear to be germane for version 1.8.112 and BHN in Florida just switched to 2.5.066 for which they may or may not be germane. That is, some issues may actually have been fixed aside from the "prettier" boot screen.

Maybe this collection needs to be maintained as a sticky.

1) Plugging in an HDMI cable sets up code in the 8300 that appears in many cases not to operate correctly.

2) Not terminating a plugged in HDMI cable in a properly working receiver (TV) still keeps the HDMI/HDCP processes running in the 8300. This implies it is always looking for something from the other end of the cable. I assume if it gets nothing (the other end is terminated in air) that it assumes the Receiver (TV) is merely off and HDCP compliance is not known.

3) Switching between 8300 units through a switching device using the HDMI outputs of the 8300 can cause all sorts of problems including black L shaped masks and reboots of the 8300.

4) Merely removing the HDMI cable may not correct situations, a re-boot may be required to cause the HDMI code processes to cease and desist. It might be nice if there were a setting to say which video output/s is/are to be used.

5) A reset to factory defaults (How?) may also be required in addition to or instead of a reboot.

6) With an HDMI cable plugged in, there is a question as to what is the proper audio output setting (Advanced setting) - Dolby Digital or HDMI I have used both with success. There is no good document on the operation of that setting with various video cables plugged in. The HDMI setting implies that the audio is on the HDMI cable, but it also seems to be on the audio digital output. If Dolby Digital is selected with an HDMI cable connected where is the Audio? To Paraphrase - "Where oh where has my audio gone"

7) With no HDMI cable plugged into the 8300 the 8300 should have no way of knowing what its output cable (e.g. Component) is plugged into, but HDMI code might still be running (see 4 and 5 above).

8) With no HDMI cable plugged in, the Audio output setting of Dolby Digital should allow Dolby digital of 2.0 or 5.1 (whichever is transmitted) to appear at the digital audio outputs.

9) Under certain circumstances (With and without an HDMI cable plugged in) the 8300 chooses to revert to either dd 2.0 OR 48KHZ pcm as the signal coming out of the audio digital outputs, even when DD 5.1 is being transmitted. To correct this requires going to the advanced setup item for audio output and re-instituting it as the audio output type at which time DD 5.1 appears if it is being sent.

As a separate note, WFTV (ABC) in Orlando FL is having engineeering problems which they are working on and is NOT transmitting a Dolby Digital 5.1 audio signal EVER. It is currently always sending DD 2.0. They are working on the problem. Hopefully they will place a notice someplace when the problem is resolved or ask one of us to.

Addendums:

1) The audio signal coming out of the HDMI cable (if connected) and the optical digital output will always be the same format.

In that configuration (HDMI to TV and Coax/Optical to Receiver) I get video to TV and no sound from TV. Sound is through Receiver when setting is DD. If setting is HDMI, I get sound from both TV and Receiver/Speakers (but only 2 channel).

When you say "no sound" I'll presume you mean through Receiver/Speakers. If so, that should not be the case.

Correct, I get no sound from Receiver/Speakers when I select DD.

Ok I fixed it, I rebooted the 8300 and now the DD is working. I wonder what caused it to stop and need a reboot?? Thanks

Ok I fixed it, I rebooted the 8300 and now the DD is working. I wonder what caused it to stop and need a reboot?? Thanks
The 8300HD gets confused sometimes and rebooting, many times, will fix it.

One small thing I can add. I'm HDMI to my display and optical out to my AVR. With 1.8.112, there were times that my audio would go from DD 5.1 to PCM. As DD 5.1 typically seemed to not have as much gain, I've hear a marked increase in audio level while seeing my AVR switch to "Pro Logic" mode. I'd would HAVE to go into the 8300's settings, switch to HDMI then back to Dolby Digital to correct this.

Since 2.5.066 got installed, I have not seen one instance of this happening.

I'd add one thing to the list. In order for an HDMI connection to send DD 5.1, the first device it's hooked to must have a DD decoder. If it doesn't, the source device (8300) will only send PCM audio.

I'm so glad that I found this thread. So if I connect my 8300HD cable box to my TV via HDMI, and I have optical, digital, or component inputs on my receiver there is no way of me running optical 5.1 to the reciever? If so do I run optical from the cable box to the Receiver or optical from the tv to the receiver? Thanks in advance for any help!!

I'm so glad that I found this thread. So if I connect my 8300HD cable box to my TV via HDMI, and I have optical, digital, or component inputs on my receiver there is no way of me running optical 5.1 to the reciever? If so do I run optical from the cable box to the Receiver or optical from the tv to the receiver? Thanks in advance for any help!!

Not quite.... If you run HDMI to the TV and optical to the receiver... you would simply have to change in the 'audio setting' in the settings based on what you want to listen to at the time... select HDMI when you want to listen thru the tv.. and select DD when you want to listen thru the Receiver.

So I would connect the box to tv via hdmi and then optical from the cable box to the receiver and choose DD on the cable box. Then I would have sound through the receiver all the time. Which is fine. Is this setup correct?

There is no way to have sound through the tv and surround sound? What about optical from tv to receiver?

So I would connect the box to tv via hdmi and then optical from the cable box to the receiver and choose DD on the cable box. Then I would have sound through the receiver all the time. Which is fine. Is this setup correct?

yup

There is no way to have sound through the tv and surround sound? What about optical from tv to receiver?

You can... but not with HDMI... Use component and analog audio to TV and optical to receiver and audio setting to DD. That works fine.

What do most others do. I think that I rather listen to tv through the surround sound all the time. I think that I'll try the HDMI and then optical to the reciever. Just have to wait for my son to go to bed. Hope you guys are around if I have any troubles. :) Thanks again for the quick replies. This is a great site!!!

Look, some folks have an old CRT next to their HDTV's so they only watch "spcieal" stuff ont heir HDTVs. Some folks listen to TV speakers to "save" their HT setup for "special" events. It's all up to you and how concerned you are about equipment life. I began by listening to TV speakers during the day and using the AVR at night, but it didn't take long to give up on that idea. I bought all this fancy equipment to use it and that's what I do now.

I have a 8300 and I lost all of my saved shows and it replaced them with old deleted shows. Is there a way to get them back?


Thanks,

Thanks guys. Ok I have the optical from the cable box to the receiver and I have no sound. I have a picture. I changed the setting on the cable box to dolby digital. I have my DVD player connected via component and then optical for the sound and when I turn the DVD player on I get sound through the receiver. Why is the TV not coming through?

I have a 8300 and I lost all of my saved shows and it replaced them with old deleted shows. Is there a way to get them back?


Thanks,
No sense drawing this out: No.

Ok, I switched the optical cables on the back of the receiver from DVD to TV and now the TV will come through just fine, but there is no sound on the receiver when a DVD is playing? I checked the settings in the DVD setup and the receiver. Any ideas? The sound from the TV will stay on until I turn off the cable box and then the sound will go away. But no sound from the DVD. Another wierd thing is I'll have the video to 4 for the DVD and the picture will display but the sound from the TV still comes through.

Also I just switched back to TV from DVD and the TV, video 6, is just snow. Sound but snow. WTF?

I don't think that the box can handle HDMI and optical. Everytime I make a switch from DVD to TV I get snow with sound on the tv. So I'm running DVD optical to receiver and then red/white from cable box to receiver. I think that this will work. I also get sound through the TV and the Receiver then. Thanks for all the help on here!!!

Im trying to hook up my plasma in my livingroom(panny) via hdmi and also trying to hook up my old tv in my bedroom via composite using the same box. When I have the hdmi cable plugged in and the plasma on- bedroom tv works. Plasma off hdcp error in bedroom. Disconnect hdmi from box and bedroom tv works. Whats going on here? I have the 8300hd.

The SA8300HD (At least the ones I own with Passport 2.5.066 and with 1.8.112 last week) All operated as follows and is documented by Scientific Atalnta in a manual that may not be distributed by the cable co's and I believe is the way it works (My experience):

The HDMI interface will automatically configure the audio output for a format supported by the televison or whatever the 8300 is connected to indicates it supports. Because not all TV's support a Dolby Digital input, The HDMI interface will automatically select a 2-channel stereo audio configuration instead of Dolby Digital If the TV does not support Dolby Digital. When the output is configured By the HDMI interface for 2-channel audio this configuration is carried over to the other digital audio outputs of the 8300HD. This configuration prevents your home theater system or dolby digital decoder from providing the full dolby digital surround sound effect.

You may override the automatic selection of audio by the HDMI interface by selecting Dolby Digital as the audio output in the advanced settings menu.

In the above the italics are mine, the rest is SA.

In summary I believe the following are the effects of the audio output settings in the advanced setup menu:

HDMI (only meaningful if an HDMI cable is plugged in)
Selects the audio output format based upon information it receives from the device it is connected to (TV or AVR). If it receives nothing (e.g. TV turned off or no HDMI cable) then it reverts to 2-channel stereo.

Dolby Digital
Shuts off the automatic selection of audio format by the HDMI interface. Forces the HDMI, Digital Audio Output and Optical audio output formats to be Dolby Digital or more precisely whatever the transmitted audio is, independent of the connected (via HDMI) recievers capability. Obvious use is with Component outputs, but can be used to get DD signal from optical outputs even when using HDMI for video only or with a receiver/TV that does not process Dolby Digital.

2- Channel
Forces the audio output to be a 2-channel stereo (downmix if DD is being broadcast) and put that format on all audio connectors.

I also believe that the audio analog output connector is ALWAYS a 2-channel stereo signal (Downmix of DD) if that is what is being received.

I think I am correct but then again . . .


Based upon the above;
if you are feeding the HDMI output to a Projector that does not process any audio (e.g. has a DVI interface), Then Select Dolby Digital. Use the Digital audio outputs to feed your dolby capable receiver.

If you are feeding the HDMI output to a device that has audio processing and it is capable of processing Dolby Digital, then it does not matter if you select HDMI or Dolby Digital.

In general if you want a fixed audio output on both the HDMI cable and the digital audio outputs select Dolby Digital. If you want the output format to be determined by what the HDMI cable is connected to select HDMI.

In all cases The audio signals on the HDMI cable, and the digtal audio outputs should be the same. The advanced settings merely decide if the format to be output is decided by the HDMI interface.

Obviously if a dolby digital signal is not being transmitted there will not be a dolby digital output but rather a 2 channel pcm output at 48khz (My experience).

I have no experience with the analog stereo outputs as I never use them


Hope the above helps, but then again I may be wrong......

There is no way to have sound through the tv and surround sound? What about optical from tv to receiver?

You'll get audio, but no DD 5.1 this way. HDMI "looks" the first device it "sees," if it does not have a DD decoder, it only send PCM audio. Not sure why anyone would want audio from the TV when they have a good HT system already in place. To me, audio through the HDMI cable to the TV is very much a fallback thing in case my AVR decides to crap out (uh, it's been going just fine for 6+ years now...).

You'll get audio, but no DD 5.1 this way. HDMI "looks" the first device it "sees," if it does not have a DD decoder, it only send PCM audio. Not sure why anyone would want audio from the TV when they have a good HT system already in place. To me, audio through the HDMI cable to the TV is very much a fallback thing in case my AVR decides to crap out (uh, it's been going just fine for 6+ years now...).
This is another area where the present iteration of HDMI (or SA's implementation thereof), falls down; no allowance for a "repeater," i.e. a device through which the DD audio passes on its way to another piece of gear for decoding.

Barry, a DD decoder in a TV makes no sense; I've never heard of one that does.

Of course, that's not to say "they" couldn't make a HD display that had at least 6 separate amplifiers, at least 4 detachable speakers plus a separate subwoofer. I think some of the issue is that the way stuff is marketed can rally create confusion in the minds of the consumer who doesn't sort of vigorously teach themselves about all the technical issues involved. Read some of the descriptions of the audio sections of the displays and one might think it's doing all the stuff a HT does.

Barry, a DD decoder in a TV makes no sense; I've never heard of one that does.

Of course, that's not to say "they" couldn't make a HD display that had at least 6 separate amplifiers, at least 4 detachable speakers plus a separate subwoofer. I think some of the issue is that the way stuff is marketed can rally create confusion in the minds of the consumer who doesn't sort of vigorously teach themselves about all the technical issues involved. Read some of the descriptions of the audio sections of the displays and one might think it's doing all the stuff a HT does.
There are several companies selling a 5.0 surround system with only ONE cabinet.

Here's one (http://www.polkaudio.com/homeaudio/products/surroundbar).

.... Not sure why anyone would want audio from the TV when they have a good HT system already in place. ..

Convenience, one remote, other users in the household.....and simply because its an available alternative.

There are several companies selling a 5.0 surround system with only ONE cabinet.

Here's one (http://www.polkaudio.com/homeaudio/products/surroundbar).


That polk is a piece of crap. The Yamaha ysp 800 or 1000 are a much better choice. Still with either of these you will still need a sub to get decent sound.

You can... but not with HDMI... Use component and analog audio to TV and optical to receiver and audio setting to DD. That works fine.
When I try this method with my Onkyo receiver, I no longer get 5.1 Dolby, just 2 channel DD.

HD content still looks fine w/ the component connection after some display parameter adjustments. I'm using a Westinghouse 37w3 display.

I was pushed SW ver 2.5.066 a few days ago. I really dislike the fact that now when I am connected with HDMI and I turn off my display, all outputs from the 8300HD show the HDCP error message. I can't record directly to DVD without having the display on or output to anything via the RF connection.

Also, the 8300HD crashes and reboots if I try to record 2 HD broadcasts at the same time and then shut off the display. 3 minutes later, everything is back recording without turning the display back on.

I also haven't figured out how to force the 8300HD to see that I've changed from an HDMI-HDMI connection to an HDMI to DVI connection.

Have others seen these problems or found work arounds when using 2.5.066?

At least Windows allows me to shut off automatic updates!

Have others seen these problems or found work arounds when using 2.5.066?You can always avoid HDCP issues by using component video connections instead of HDMI.

I have an SA 8300 and was watching a show. When it had finished I went to erase it and the box rebooted. After reboot it gave me a recorded shows listing from September 12th!! The shows that were still on the drive from before Sept 12 were viewable but ones that were watched and erased were not accessible. Is there a way to restore the directory of recorded shows from today? Also, all recordings scheduled were deleted. There were over 70 hours of shows on there that the directory is not finding. HELP!!!

I have an SA 8300 and was watching a show. When it had finished I went to erase it and the box rebooted. After reboot it gave me a recorded shows listing from September 12th!! The shows that were still on the drive from before Sept 12 were viewable but ones that were watched and erased were not accessible. Is there a way to restore the directory of recorded shows from today? Also, all recordings scheduled were deleted. There were over 70 hours of shows on there that the directory is not finding. HELP!!!
Very apt name for your situation. No. :(

I'm having a lot of trouble here and I hope someone can tell me if its a problem with my SA box or my TV.

Today, I went and picked up an 8300HD DVR from TW,SC. I have it hooked up to my new Samsung HLS-5087w DLP 1080p TV. Everything worked great until I changed inputs on my TV. When I went back to HDCP1, it was all snowy looking. Exactly like what old analog snow looked like. It is snowy for about 1 second, then flashes black for a split second, and comes back and stays snowing. I cannot get video back from the cable box without unplugging the power and doing a hard reset. When I do this, it does not matter whether the TV is on or off. As long as HDCP1 is the input that comes up when I turn on the TV, and as long as I stay on that input, I can turn off the cable box and the TV in any combination without it getting scrambled. It only does it when I change inputs. Looks to be some kind of HDCP handshake problem...like the TV loses the handshake when it changes input, and the 8300 HD only offers a new handshake when it is hard booting. Any ideas before I waste my time with TW?

I'm having a lot of trouble here and I hope someone can tell me if its a problem with my SA box or my TV.

Today, I went and picked up an 8300HD DVR from TW,SC. I have it hooked up to my new Samsung HLS-5087w DLP 1080p TV. Everything worked great until I changed inputs on my TV. When I went back to HDCP1, it was all snowy looking. Exactly like what old analog snow looked like. It is snowy for about 1 second, then flashes black for a split second, and comes back and stays snowing. I cannot get video back from the cable box without unplugging the power and doing a hard reset. When I do this, it does not matter whether the TV is on or off. As long as HDCP1 is the input that comes up when I turn on the TV, and as long as I stay on that input, I can turn off the cable box and the TV in any combination without it getting scrambled. It only does it when I change inputs. Looks to be some kind of HDCP handshake problem...like the TV loses the handshake when it changes input, and the 8300 HD only offers a new handshake when it is hard booting. Any ideas before I waste my time with TW?
I think that it *should* re-negotiate the handshake with on-off-on cycling. Mine does.

Thanks for the quick reply.

Mine does not. Is there a setting for that in the service menu? I accidentally did a factory reset in the service menu about a month ago. I have seen no changes in the TV after that, so I didn't figure it was a big deal. I have since seen many recommendations on this board to leave that alone, but it was an accident anyways. Is there a setting that has been changed that would make it recycle the handshake on power on/off or better yet, on input change. My gut tells me that it's not right for it to be losing the HDCP connection like it is anyways.

When you change inputs, you will lose the HDCP handshake. I would think that if you turned off the 8300 before changing inputs and then turning it on after you change inputs back, it would renegotiate. Failing that, the only solution might be to use the Component connections. The HDMI specs seem to be such that there can be incompatibilities even though each unit meets the specs. :(

Thanks for the quick reply.

Mine does not. Is there a setting for that in the service menu? I accidentally did a factory reset in the service menu about a month ago. I have seen no changes in the TV after that, so I didn't figure it was a big deal. I have since seen many recommendations on this board to leave that alone, but it was an accident anyways. Is there a setting that has been changed that would make it recycle the handshake on power on/off or better yet, on input change. My gut tells me that it's not right for it to be losing the HDCP connection like it is anyways.

Your experience is similar to those of many others (hdmi/snow). Do a word serach on this thread and some of the earlier posts may help. Its a combo of Source (hdmi/component) and Settings in the 8300 (DD vs HDMI for Audio Out). Let us know how that works out, and you'll get this cleared up. Also, post the version of Passport your 8300 has at present.

Thanks for the quick reply.

Mine does not. Is there a setting for that in the service menu? I accidentally did a factory reset in the service menu about a month ago. I have seen no changes in the TV after that, so I didn't figure it was a big deal. I have since seen many recommendations on this board to leave that alone, but it was an accident anyways. Is there a setting that has been changed that would make it recycle the handshake on power on/off or better yet, on input change. My gut tells me that it's not right for it to be losing the HDCP connection like it is anyways.
You're gut is correct however, as DoubleDAZ and IamtheWolf have indicated, problems such as this are all too common in the world of HDMI. Contacting TW may be a waste of time as many cable providers tell their subscribers that they do not support HDMI and to use the (included?) component cables. As I typed that I could feel the fire rushing to my head. You'd think that the "one wire to bind them all" would know about input switchers . . .

FWIW I do not have an issue like yours, I can switch inputs on my display without "losing" the HDMI signal from my STB. There have been instances where I'm playing with all this and I see a message that HDMI can't make a connection... but even in those instances, all I have to do is wait a few beats and things hook back up.

FWIW, back under the previous STB software version (1.8.x) I never, ever saw snow. And I think channel switching was just a tad quicker. Under the current release, it seems that when I switch from a 1080i signal to a 720p one (or vice-versa), I get to see a momentary bit of snow, followed by black and audio, then the channel's video. I have my STB set to pass on the original signal as delivered so I know the display is doing the work of scaling. Normally, one would say the snow is from the display, but given the only change causing this is the STB's software, it's the STB.

Long winded way of saying to swap out the 8300.

Hey guys, thanks for all the responses. TWSC said "since it loses when you change video inputs, its definately your TV, not out problem screw off"....more or less. I have the audio set to DD so I can run optical directly to my receiver. I will try to set it to HDMI audio and see how it works.

Here is all the info from the diagnostic screen...dunno which is the passport ver..still figuring all this out...

PTV OS: OS, Home Server Edition 1.8
FLASH: 1.88.17.a100
Apps: compass v1.1.0b17
Alerts v1.6.9-3

I think the software in the flash is something called SARA if im interpreting the diag screen properly. I'm gonna try the audio thru the HDMI and see what happens!

Wish me luck!

Very quick edit:

Son of a gun! Changing the audio to HDMI fixed it. It no longer loses the handshake. Okay, so my TV has optical out...any loss of quality or other detriment by running the optical from my TV to my receiver. It would still maintain the quality and all the same channels (5.1) right?

More Editing:

Damn.

1) I'm only getting stereo from my amp instead of 5.1 when passing it thru HDMI to the TV and then to the amp via optical. I thought HDMI supported 5.1...not sure what the problem is.

2) Could be my very paranoid imagination, but the sound quality seems alot worse doing this, in addition to it only being stereo. It seems ALOT flatter. My mind tells my gut this is impossible becuase its a digital signal..right?

HELP!

Hey guys, thanks for all the responses. TWSC said "since it loses when you change video inputs, its definately your TV, not out problem screw off"....more or less. I have the audio set to DD so I can run optical directly to my receiver. I will try to set it to HDMI audio and see how it works.

Here is all the info from the diagnostic screen...dunno which is the passport ver..still figuring all this out...

PTV OS: OS, Home Server Edition 1.8
FLASH: 1.88.17.a100
Apps: compass v1.1.0b17
Alerts v1.6.9-3

I think the software in the flash is something called SARA if im interpreting the diag screen properly. I'm gonna try the audio thru the HDMI and see what happens!

Wish me luck!

Very quick edit:

Son of a gun! Changing the audio to HDMI fixed it. It no longer loses the handshake. Okay, so my TV has optical out...any loss of quality or other detriment by running the optical from my TV to my receiver. It would still maintain the quality and all the same channels (5.1) right?

More Editing:

Damn.

1) I'm only getting stereo from my amp instead of 5.1 when passing it thru HDMI to the TV and then to the amp via optical. I thought HDMI supported 5.1...not sure what the problem is.

2) Could be my very paranoid imagination, but the sound quality seems alot worse doing this, in addition to it only being stereo. It seems ALOT flatter. My mind tells my gut this is impossible becuase its a digital signal..right?

HELP!
So, is one of you Passport guys going to tell Mister Muffin here that this is the wrong thread - or does a SARA guy have to do it. OK, I'll do it.

Mister Muffin, I know it is difficult to figure out where to post a question such as yours - but you should know that there are currently two different software systems (think of them as operating systems for a computer) (with a third one on the way) for the 8300. One, and the one that this thread is devoted to, is Passport, and the other is SARA. It is apparent that you have SARA. Following is page 1 of the SARA thread:
8300 SARA Tips & Tricks (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=471859&page=1&pp=30) check out the first couple of posts first, to see if your answer is there, and then jump to the end. I don't have an HDMI connection, so I can't answer everything completely for you. The menus and settings on SARA are different than Passport, but we have the same version of SARA as you do, and I'm pretty sure that there is a setting that will work for you.

Thanks. I didn't even know there were two different firmwares for the 8300 until I looked in the diag screen. So much info, hard to absorb it all when you have such a specific question. Even though I have SARA, I have received great help from the people in this thread, and I am grateful. I found this thread via google searching so thats why! One more thing, please. Here is what I have determined so far, as far as I can tell:

According to the explorer club on scientific atlanta's website, when the audio output is set to HDMI, the HDMI connection detects what kind of audio the TV supports and outputs accordingly. In this case, the HL-S5087W only supports stereo, and so HDMI only outputs that. The manual says that setting the output to Dolby Digital overrides this setting, and outputs DD to the optical and coax in addition to the HDMI. However, since the TV doesn't support this from the HDMI, I get no audio through the TV speakers, and I lose the handshake when switching video inputs. Too bad theres no way to enable the optical out with 5.1 and send 2ch thru the HDMI so the TV doesn't freak out..or maybe no audio at all. Any ideas on this while I go look at the SARA forum?

I know that a friend here has the 8300 and a Samsung through HDMI, and setting the SA8300 to DD does send 5.1 to the receiver (but I suppose there is no longer audio to the TV). I don't believe that he has any significant handshake issues when he switches video.

Got someone with Scientific Atlanta after waiting on the phone forever. He says its a known issue. It is due to the fact that when you set the audio output to Dolby Digital, it not only sends DD through the optical and coaxial, but also through the HDMI. For some TV's that do not support 5.1 in HDMI (like mine), this interrupts the HDCP handshake. The tech said there is no way to enable the DD on the optical port and not on the HDMI. He also said that there is a firmware fix coming but would not even hint at a date. Looks like I'm using component cables until SciAtl/TW gets off their asses.

*sad*

Well, you could simply switch from DD back to HDMI when you want to switch inputs or listen to the TV speakers. Going through all this though, it should be quite apparent just why cableco's do not support HDMI yet. It's obviously not ready and it's difficult to say exactly who is at fault. Cableco's are at the mercy of SA and TV makers. Even though they've both released firmware updates to fix some things, there are obviously still compatibility issues to be resolved. As has been said many times, the fact that there is an HDMI connection, just like the USB port, etc., doesn't mean it works in all situations. I'm sure many cableco's regret purchasing the units with all the connections in an attempt to save money over time. Eventually all this will work itself out, but they now find themselves between a rock and a hard place. Everyone wants the best possible PQ with the fewest connections. Unfortunately, in many cases, those are mutually exclusive at the moment. :)

Got someone with Scientific Atlanta after waiting on the phone forever. He says its a known issue. It is due to the fact that when you set the audio output to Dolby Digital, it not only sends DD through the optical and coaxial, but also through the HDMI. For some TV's that do not support 5.1 in HDMI (like mine), this interrupts the HDCP handshake. The tech said there is no way to enable the DD on the optical port and not on the HDMI. He also said that there is a firmware fix coming but would not even hint at a date.
That is very useful information. Thanks.

Got someone with Scientific Atlanta after waiting on the phone forever. He says its a known issue. It is due to the fact that when you set the audio output to Dolby Digital, it not only sends DD through the optical and coaxial, but also through the HDMI. For some TV's that do not support 5.1 in HDMI (like mine), this interrupts the HDCP handshake. The tech said there is no way to enable the DD on the optical port and not on the HDMI. He also said that there is a firmware fix coming but would not even hint at a date. Looks like I'm using component cables until SciAtl/TW gets off their asses.

*sad*

Hmmm, interesting... but what does this future firmware update buy me? My understanding, correct me if I'm wrong, is that the 8300 has only "one" sound processor, so it can only output one sound format simultaneously to all its outputs. Then (I guess) this firmware update would allow users to "manually disable" the HDMI output for those (the majority of us) that do not have TVs that support DD 5.1. With Echo 2.5.066 this is not an issue for me. I don't get sound out of my TV speakers when the Audio Digital Out setting of the 8300 is set to Dolby Digital, but I get Dolby Digital 5.1 via the Digital output of the 8300 through my receiver. (As expected) The DD HDMI handshake with my TV might have failed, but the other outputs are still working. (As expected) When I set the Audio Digital out to HDMI... I get sound via my TV speakers and via my receiver simultaneously, but the sound is not Dolby Digital 5.1. (As expected).

Got someone with Scientific Atlanta after waiting on the phone forever. He says its a known issue. It is due to the fact that when you set the audio output to Dolby Digital, it not only sends DD through the optical and coaxial, but also through the HDMI. For some TV's that do not support 5.1 in HDMI (like mine), this interrupts the HDCP handshake. The tech said there is no way to enable the DD on the optical port and not on the HDMI. He also said that there is a firmware fix coming but would not even hint at a date. Looks like I'm using component cables until SciAtl/TW gets off their asses.

*sad*
Thanks for the diligence and posting this. So, my understanding of your current situation is that you now understand the work arounds until this is corrected by SA.

In summary,
1. you use Audio out set to HDMI for TV and Receiver audio, but it will only be 2 channel.
2. If you want DD 5.1, change the Audio out setting to DD. That should produce DD to Receiver and NO audio to TV.
3. In No. 2 above, Don't change TV's output to Component. Doing so will produce "Snow" if you forget to change Audio out back to HDMI. (I think, its been awhile).
4. I never get HDCP message by leaving SA8300 on all the time (use TV on/off). Apparently, having the SA 8300 on before the TV fixes that.

Hey everyone, I'm glad I could provide some useful information even though I ended up being in the wrong forum! Is it safe to assume that Passport users have the same trouble?

In the end, I think I'll just use my component cables for the time being. Switching the audio out to HDMI everytime I want to play my X360 is more of a pain that watching TV over component. I think everyone who has this problem needs to coordinate and call SA at the same time and "encourage" them to get out a fix for this. ;-)

I know that a friend here has the 8300 and a Samsung through HDMI, and setting the SA8300 to DD does send 5.1 to the receiver (but I suppose there is no longer audio to the TV). I don't believe that he has any significant handshake issues when he switches video.

One would hope you mean me! Yes, I have no handshake issues and have my audio set to Dolby Digital and use an AVR fed with the 8300's optical out. My previous Passport software did have a bug wherein Dolby Digital would cease sending DD 5.1 encoded audio, but it appears (so far) that they did squash that bug with the latest rev. Yes, with the 8300 set to Dolby Digital, no audio travels via HDMI to the TV.

My understanding of how the audio worked in the 8300HD was that the advanced audio setting ONLY controlled whether or not the HDMI information returned by the device connected to the 8300HD controlled the type of audio being sent to the output jacks.

If set to HDMI, then what the connected device said it could handle was what was sent. If set to Dobly Digital then whatever was transmitted would be sent to the output jacks no matter what the receiver indicated on an HDMI connection. The digital jacks would alwyas have a digital stream (AC-3 (DD) or PCM) and the analog jacks a Stereo downmix (although I doubt that to be the case if no stereo audio downmix was transmitted e.g. on an HD channel)

All Digital Audio Jacks (Coaxial, Optical and HDMI) would receive the the same output . This last statement does not seem to be the case. When I set the 8300HD to Dolby Digital I get what I expect from the Digital audio jacks but I get nothing from the HDMI Audio feed. My system always reports to all HDMI sources that the receiver is capable of all audio formats.

There also needs to be some sort of "kicking" of the HDMI system to resestablish (Handshake?) the connection when the audio settings are changed. This seems to be best done by pulling the HDMI cable.

Comments on any of the above greatly appreciated.

My understanding of how the audio worked in the 8300HD was that the advanced audio setting ONLY controlled whether or not the HDMI information returned by the device connected to the 8300HD controlled the type of audio being sent to the output jacks.

If set to HDMI, then what the connected device said it could handle was what was sent. If set to Dobly Digital then whatever was transmitted would be sent to the output jacks no matter what the receiver indicated on an HDMI connection. The digital jacks would alwyas have a digital stream (AC-3 (DD) or PCM) and the analog jacks a Stereo downmix (although I doubt that to be the case if no stereo audio downmix was transmitted e.g. on an HD channel)

All Digital Audio Jacks (Coaxial, Optical and HDMI) would receive the the same output . This last statement does not seem to be the case. When I set the 8300HD to Dolby Digital I get what I expect from the Digital audio jacks but I get nothing from the HDMI Audio feed. My system always reports to all HDMI sources that the receiver is capable of all audio formats.

There also needs to be some sort of "kicking" of the HDMI system to resestablish (Handshake?) the connection when the audio settings are changed. This seems to be best done by pulling the HDMI cable.

Comments on any of the above greatly appreciated.

Please note the following pertains to my box which is running SARA, not Passport, so YMMV. As I have researched, the optical/coax audio outputs are disabled when the audio out on the box is set to HDMI. When set to HDMI, as you said, it communicates with the TV and only sends what the TV supports. In my case, this is 2ch audio. Setting the audio output to Dolby Digital overrides this and sets it to 5.1, regardless of what your TV supports, and also activates the optical and coaxial outputs. Unfortunately, there is a bug in the box that breaks the HDCP handshake when sending 5.1 audio to a TV that does not support it via HDMI.

Got someone with Scientific Atlanta after waiting on the phone forever. He says its a known issue. It is due to the fact that when you set the audio output to Dolby Digital, it not only sends DD through the optical and coaxial, but also through the HDMI. For some TV's that do not support 5.1 in HDMI (like mine), this interrupts the HDCP handshake. The tech said there is no way to enable the DD on the optical port and not on the HDMI. He also said that there is a firmware fix coming but would not even hint at a date. Looks like I'm using component cables until SciAtl/TW gets off their asses.

*sad*

First, firmware means something very specific, my guess is the tech was misusing the term (AFAIK there are three "sets" of software, the firmware, the underlying OS and the main application). He probably meant the application... as in version of Passport. I seem to recall that under the older version, one could set the 8300 to Dolby Digital AND have audio go through the HDMI connection at the same time (1.8.xx). Our area just got moved to the latest version (see my sig) and now I see that setting the 8300 to Dolby Digital delivers the audio I want via the optical cable, but no audio flows through the HDMI connection (I use HDMI for video to the TV).

Has anyone ever actually cut apart a cable that was meant for the "coaxial" audio connection? What I know is that an optical connection sends digital data digitally. The same digital data can be sent via this "coax" connection, but it's digital data sent in analog format (the theory is that an analog transmission is more susceptible to interference than a digitally transmitted one).

Coax means something very specific about the wire (center conductor with the second "wire" being a mesh that surrounds a plastic sheathing "protecting" the center wire). You cable wire is coaxial. BUT the output we call coax uses a standard RCA jacked cable. I'm pretty sure any standard RCA cable will work. It isn't coaxial, it's simply 2 wires.

I'm in NYC with passport firmware.

I have my set hooked up via HDMI and my dvd recording via S-VHS.

Whenever I try to record off of my 8300 box AND turn the tv off, I end up with the HDMI handshake warning output to my recorder.

Anyway around this short of keeping the set on or unplugging the hdmi cable when recording?

Thanks, in advance!

Gabe

I am pretty sure of what I am about to say but I have never looked with a scope.

Coaxial means common axis. Two conductors sharing a common axis, normally a center conductor surrounded by a di-electric which is surrounded by the second conductor which is surrounded by the jacket or insulation. All share the common axis of the center conductor. Speaker wires are generally not coaxial, nor is 300 ohm downlead. Almost all audio/video cables are of a coaxial construction.

This type of cable is generally classed as a tramnsmission line for which there are a set of eqations for predicting performance. One key factor of a transmission line is its characteristic impedance. The CI for digital audio is 75 ohms (I think). Matchng of impedance provides for maximum power (energy) transfer, and in very high frequency work minimal reflections of the signal along the line.

What is sent is a baseband digital signal. That is pulses with no analog carrier. It is the same as what comes out of the optical port, just a change in tranmission medium. I think the highest base pulse rates are in the Kiloherz range not the megaherz range and definately not the giga herz range where transmission line characteristiscs really count. Much higher frequencies will be present due to the fact we are dealing with pulses as opposed to smooth wave forms. If a cable does not pass highs well, then the nice square digital pulses will get rounded, but will be reshaped at the receiver if at all still reasonable. I will not get into a discussion of digital "jitter".

I am successful using normal audio cable for runs of about 20 feet in my HT. I can not hear a difference. I would suggest 75 ohm cable of a coaxial nature (TV antenna wire RG59, RG6 is just such a cable) is what should be used for long runs (hundreds of feet), or any coaxial cable with the proper characteristic impedance. My general cable theory is that most of what you read is marketing rubbish. Inexpensive cables of quality construction are all you need. There was once a double blind experiment involving speaker wire and metal coat hangers. Result was a tie or indeterminate. End of story.

I'm in NYC with passport firmware.

I have my set hooked up via HDMI and my dvd recording via S-VHS.

Whenever I try to record off of my 8300 box AND turn the tv off, I end up with the HDMI handshake warning output to my recorder.

Anyway around this short of keeping the set on or unplugging the hdmi cable when recording?

Thanks, in advance!

Gabe
The 3 options I found were to leave the display on, unplug the HDMI cable or switch the display connection to component. I switched to component and noticed no change in picture quality. I also like the fact that now I can set the 8300HD audio digital out to digital Dolby and have my surround sound and display speakers working without having to make menu changes each time.

Change the audio out on the cable box to HDMI. Then it will work.

I'm having a lot of trouble here and I hope someone can tell me if its a problem with my SA box or my TV.

Today, I went and picked up an 8300HD DVR from TW,SC. I have it hooked up to my new Samsung HLS-5087w DLP 1080p TV. Everything worked great until I changed inputs on my TV. When I went back to HDCP1, it was all snowy looking. Exactly like what old analog snow looked like. It is snowy for about 1 second, then flashes black for a split second, and comes back and stays snowing. I cannot get video back from the cable box without unplugging the power and doing a hard reset. When I do this, it does not matter whether the TV is on or off. As long as HDCP1 is the input that comes up when I turn on the TV, and as long as I stay on that input, I can turn off the cable box and the TV in any combination without it getting scrambled. It only does it when I change inputs. Looks to be some kind of HDCP handshake problem...like the TV loses the handshake when it changes input, and the 8300 HD only offers a new handshake when it is hard booting. Any ideas before I waste my time with TW?

Set the audio out on the 8300 to HDMI. Then it should sync fine.

I am pretty sure of what I am about to say but I have never looked with a scope.

Coaxial means common axis. Two conductors sharing a common axis, normally a center conductor surrounded by a di-electric which is surrounded by the second conductor which is surrounded by the jacket or insulation. All share the common axis of the center conductor. Speaker wires are generally not coaxial, nor is 300 ohm downlead. Almost all audio/video cables are of a coaxial construction.

This type of cable is generally classed as a tramnsmission line for which there are a set of eqations for predicting performance. One key factor of a transmission line is its characteristic impedance. The CI for digital audio is 75 ohms (I think). Matchng of impedance provides for maximum power (energy) transfer, and in very high frequency work minimal reflections of the signal along the line.

What is sent is a baseband digital signal. That is pulses with no analog carrier. It is the same as what comes out of the optical port, just a change in tranmission medium. I think the highest base pulse rates are in the Kiloherz range not the megaherz range and definately not the giga herz range where transmission line characteristiscs really count. Much higher frequencies will be present due to the fact we are dealing with pulses as opposed to smooth wave forms. If a cable does not pass highs well, then the nice square digital pulses will get rounded, but will be reshaped at the receiver if at all still reasonable. I will not get into a discussion of digital "jitter".

I am successful using normal audio cable for runs of about 20 feet in my HT. I can not hear a difference. I would suggest 75 ohm cable of a coaxial nature (TV antenna wire RG59, RG6 is just such a cable) is what should be used for long runs (hundreds of feet), or any coaxial cable with the proper characteristic impedance. My general cable theory is that most of what you read is marketing rubbish. Inexpensive cables of quality construction are all you need. There was once a double blind experiment involving speaker wire and metal coat hangers. Result was a tie or indeterminate. End of story.
Your are correct. And the distance between the center conductor and shield is important. There's even a spec for radii - bending too far distorts the coax and changes the relationship. The proper cable for a coaxial digital connection is a special cable, not just any old RCA patch cord. Interestingly, RCA phono plugs are *not* 75ohms, but they seem to be used anyway. Some companies do claim 75ohm impedance on their phono plugs, but audio experts are generally skeptical. There is such a thing as coaxial speaker wire - I used it in my theater. My understanding is that it's mainly to avoid EMI/RFI.

Coaxial cabling because of its construction with a surrounding conductor generally at ground potential is what supplies the RFI/EMI suppression. It is the Shield as Scotty used to say.

The key factor IMHO is that over reasonably short runs <30 feet I doubt if you will hear any difference between straight A/V cables and special cable "pricey" cables advertised for Digital Audio.

<Soapbox>I am really getting fed up with what is happening in America re large corporations (and many small ones) and what they push as product. Read "Overdo$ed America" for an enlightening look at the Drug industry and it's effect on American health. </Soapbox>

Coaxial cabling because of its construction with a surrounding conductor generally at ground potential is what supplies the RFI/EMI suppression. It is the Shield as Scotty used to say.

The key factor IMHO is that over reasonably short runs <30 feet I doubt if you will hear any difference between straight A/V cables and special cable "pricey" cables advertised for Digital Audio.
Are you saying one does not need to use a coaxial digital cable for . . coaxial digital audio?

The proper cable for a coaxial digital connection is a special cable, not just any old RCA patch cord. Interestingly, RCA phono plugs are *not* 75ohms, but they seem to be used anyway. Some companies do claim 75ohm impedance on their phono plugs, but audio experts are generally skeptical. Though enterprise marketing companies may sell a special cable for digital, it does not require anything special - same old snake oil!

RE: 75 ohms and RCA plugs - pepar, you are absolutely correct - they are nowhere near 75 ohms. Particularly the jacks! The internal circuitry in the sources and sinks (receiving devices) aren't designed for a consistant impedance either. So why get bothered?

Are you saying one does not need to use a coaxial digital cable for . . coaxial digital audio?

RG59 or RG6 is perfect for digital audio cable. You can put the typical TV ends on (screw on or crimp on) (or just buy pre made TV Coax) and get F to RCA converters at Radio Shack.

Audio cable is coaxial too and should work but the impedence may (or may not) be an issue at longer lengths.

Though enterprise marketing companies may sell a special cable for digital, it does not require anything special - same old snake oil!

RE: 75 ohms and RCA plugs - pepar, you are absolutely correct - they are nowhere near 75 ohms. Particularly the jacks! The internal circuitry in the sources and sinks (receiving devices) aren't designed for a consistant impedance either. So why get bothered?
While I'd never buy monsters, I do pay a premium and buy cables made from high quality components with top notch workmanship.

RG59 or RG6 is perfect for digital audio cable. You can put the typical TV ends on (screw on or crimp on) (or just buy pre made TV Coax) and get F to RCA converters at Radio Shack.
Wouldn't you be concerned about that extra mechanical/electrical connection from the converter?

Wouldn't you be concerned about that extra mechanical/electrical connection from the converter?

Nah.. Not Really. Think of how many connections are involved in TV coax in general... The digital audio signal is pretty simple compared to wideband TV RF. The converter is basically TV RF technology which will be more than adequate for the application. However... I would be more likely to just order an appropriate length 75 ohm cable from blue jeans and be done with it.

Ive also used audio cables for 5-8 foot runs with no problems but with the frequencies involved... id like to have cables with better controller impedence and a lot lower capacitance than audio cables for digital audio usage. But thats just me....

Wouldn't you be concerned about that extra mechanical/electrical connection from the converter?

In addition to what I said above.... Some 'installers' use this type of connection scheme when they prewire a house and then come back and finish. My neighbor's installer put in all the coax and then after the house was complete, terminated the coax with cable 'F' connectors and used the aforementioned F to RCA adapters. These cables were used for Component Video... which is far more 'complex' than digital audio in that it is high frequency analog.

Yes. I am using plain old A/V cable but of a premium quality not the old grey stuff, but nothing like "Monster" sells, for my digital audio. I am using a 7 meter (about 23 feet) length in one case, and a 1 meter (about 39") length in another. These audios feed into a Lexicon MC1 and I can detect no difference between the two. One of the cables (the longer) actually is feeding DVR outputs, and the shorter from a high quality media server playing up FLAC files derived from DTS CD's in many cases. When I use Toslink, I use optical cable that I got on the web. Very thin with a simple connector at each end. Once again can not detect a problem. It is really hard to screw up digital signals. I think I paid on the order of $10 for 10 meter lengths.

Run a simple test. Replace the "higher priced spread" with plain old audio cable and see what it sounds like. There is no way you can hurt anything unless you break the phono jacks on the equipment. You probablyhave some audio (or video) cable laying around if you have been playing with this stuff for a while.. Grab a piece with yellow jacks on the ends (normally composite video) and then a piece with red or white jacks (normally analog audio) and see if you can hear a difference.

Run a simple test. Replace the "higher priced spread" with plain old audio cable and see what it sounds like. There is no way you can hurt anything unless you break the phono jacks on the equipment. You probablyhave some audio (or video) cable laying around if you have been playing with this stuff for a while.. Grab a piece with yellow jacks on the ends (normally composite video) and then a piece with red or white jacks (normally analog audio) and see if you can hear a difference.Better yet: Get *someone else* to swap the cables, so you can't see them and have to rely on your ears alone.

Run a simple test. Replace the "higher priced spread" with plain old audio cable and see what it sounds like. There is no way you can hurt anything unless you break the phono jacks on the equipment. You probably have some audio (or video) cable laying around if you have been playing with this stuff for a while.. Grab a piece with yellow jacks on the ends (normally composite video) and then a piece with red or white jacks (normally analog audio) and see if you can hear a difference.
Horrors!!! :eek:

Yes. I am using plain old A/V cable but of a premium quality not the old grey stuff, but nothing like "Monster" sells, for my digital audio. I am using a 7 meter (about 23 feet) length in one case, and a 1 meter (about 39") length in another. These audios feed into a Lexicon MC1 and I can detect no difference between the two. One of the cables (the longer) actually is feeding DVR outputs, and the shorter from a high quality media server playing up FLAC files derived from DTS CD's in many cases. When I use Toslink, I use optical cable that I got on the web. Very thin with a simple connector at each end. Once again can not detect a problem. It is really hard to screw up digital signals. I think I paid on the order of $10 for 10 meter lengths.

Run a simple test. Replace the "higher priced spread" with plain old audio cable and see what it sounds like. There is no way you can hurt anything unless you break the phono jacks on the equipment. You probablyhave some audio (or video) cable laying around if you have been playing with this stuff for a while.. Grab a piece with yellow jacks on the ends (normally composite video) and then a piece with red or white jacks (normally analog audio) and see if you can hear a difference.

Also, the only difference you might here will not be 'tonal' (i.e. better bass, smoother this or that)... It will either work... or you will get.. dropouts... clicks... pops... etc. Its Digital... If it starts dropping bits.. the result will not be subtle... it will be ugly. Now for analog stuff... different story. Cables are important there (depending on a) your eyes and ears, b) your equipment and c) how much you really pay attention or care).

I would use a video cable (yellow band) rather than an audio cable (red/white) because it will have lower capacitance and thus less attenuation at high frequency.... but again.. thats me. If the audio stuff works... then it works. The coaxial digital audio connection is pretty bulletproof.

HOORAY - Sanity on a cable issue!!

In the 1960's a double blind test was run on speaker wire.
Audience: About 10 Audiophiles / Musicians.
Configuration: High end equipment for the time
Cabling: Switch controlled cables; Set A, set B Between power amp and Pair of Speakers
Cable Set A: fifty feet 12 Gauge Copper wire, basically zip Cord
Cable Set B: Same as A with wire coat hangers spliced at points into the middle of the run

Results: Arguments as to which set sounded better

Fellow throwing switches did not know which set was being connected
Evaluaters could see nothing other than speakers

My conclusion: For speaker wire use a good gauge of copper zip cord. Spend the money saved on better speakers.
There is no skin effect at to 20khz,
Oxygen content is toro poopoo,
Many people are fools,
Fools are soon parted with their money

While I am on this rant - Do you think I watch movies with my head clamped in a vise? Do you think the precise measurement of distances to all the speakers in an array (Front, Sides, Rear) stays constant as I watch a movie? Should I have a camera monitoring a reflective point on my head and dynamically adjusting speaker delays to ...... What about me and my SO sitting 2 feet to the right of me, or with her head in my lap (Keep your minds in the proper plane please)

All of it is just a compromise. If it sounds good and it looks good; IT IS GOOD. Can it be better? Probably but who cares. As an engineering mentor I used to teach the young uns that in real world engineering "Good enough" is "Good Enough". The enemy of good is better, and the real problem in debugging is "Hope", as in "I Hope this fixes it"

HOORAY - Sanity on a cable issue!!

In the 1960's a double blind test was run on speaker wire.
Audience: About 10 Audiophiles / Musicians.
Configuration: High end equipment for the time
Cabling: Switch controlled cables; Set A, set B Between power amp and Pair of Speakers
Cable Set A: fifty feet 12 Gauge Copper wire, basically zip Cord
Cable Set B: Same as A with wire coat hangers spliced at points into the middle of the run

Results: Arguments as to which set sounded better

Fellow throwing switches did not know which set was being connected
Evaluaters could see nothing other than speakers

My conclusion: For speaker wire use a good gauge of copper zip cord. Spend the money saved on better speakers.
There is no skin effect at to 20khz,
Oxygen content is toro poopoo,
Many people are fools,
Fools are soon parted with their money
I am extremely uncomfortable seeming like I am defending snake oil; I believe there is a common ground here w-a-y short of fancy marketing and other-worldly metallic/hybrid compounds that challenge the periodic table, but also w-a-y above the "use zip cord for everything" approach. This started talking about coaxial digital audio cables, but now seems to have morphed into a speaker cable discussion. Well, maybe anything conductive will work for speakers, but when the people that developed coaxial digital tell me that I should use a 75 ohm cable, then that is what I'm going to use. I think the bias against snake oil cables - I have the bias myself - is clouding the judgment of some. And, again, we all look around at the fools plunking down huge chunks of cheddar for fancy-looking cables, but my recommendation is to buy cables made with the CORRECT materials with good workmanship. And this can be done inexpensively.

And to specifically address one of your comments, if it CAN be better for a REASONABLE amount of additional money, then I care.

I am extremely uncomfortable seeming like I am defending snake oil; I believe there is a common ground here w-a-y short of fancy marketing and other-worldly metallic/hybrid compounds that challenge the periodic table, but also w-a-y above the "use zip cord for everything" approach. This started talking about coaxial digital audio cables, but now seems to have morphed into a speaker cable discussion. Well, maybe anything conductive will work for speakers, but when the people that developed coaxial digital tell me that I should use a 75 ohm cable, then that is what I'm going to use. I think the bias against snake oil cables - I have the bias myself - is clouding the judgment of some. And, again, we all look around at the fools plunking down huge chunks of cheddar for fancy-looking cables, but my recommendation is to buy cables made with the CORRECT materials with good workmanship. And this can be done inexpensively.

And to specifically address one of your comments, if it CAN be better for a REASONABLE amount of additional money, then I care.

I agree... you SHOULD use 75 ohm coax for digital audio.... There are a lot of things that you SHOULD do but the world won't end if you dont. Digital cabling is an area where reasonable comprimises really wont make much difference.

Analog cabling is yet another matter... My view is that 1) If you can hear/see the difference, 2) can afford the difference and 3) care about the difference then there are 'better' cables with 'better' performance. The law of diminishing marginal returns applies though. Im a 'yes, yes, yes' to the above and spent a pretty penny on my analog cables and can hear the difference. Others may have totally different priorities and they are entitled to those priorities. There is also a lot of crap cables out there that cost a bunch but dont make a difference (=Monster). I personally use the low end of 'Transparent' analog cables.

My view is that 1) If you can hear/see the difference, 2) can afford the difference and 3) care about the difference then there are 'better' cables with 'better' performance. The law of diminishing marginal returns applies though.
Exactly. And everyone draws their line at different places. I'm ticked at both those who look down their noses at any cable costing less than a Hyundai and those who scoff at any cable costing more than $3.99.

12 gauge? Holy smokes, that stuff barely bends! "Zip cord" was something like 18 gauge with a nice rubber sheathing, wasn't it?

I usually advise folks to get in the middle, not too expensive, not too cheap. Generally speaking, the middle choice tends to have the best bang for the buck. Over on another forum I keep getting hassled by someone claiming 5 dollar HDMI cables are all one needs every time I say go for the middle cost. Imagine the chintz in the connector on a 10" HDMI cable that cost 5 bucks?

12 gauge? Holy smokes, that stuff barely bends! "Zip cord" was something like 18 gauge with a nice rubber sheathing, wasn't it?

I usually advise folks to get in the middle, not too expensive, not too cheap. Generally speaking, the middle choice tends to have the best bang for the buck. Over on another forum I keep getting hassled by someone claiming 5 dollar HDMI cables are all one needs every time I say go for the middle cost. Imagine the chintz in the connector on a 10" HDMI cable that cost 5 bucks?
Try 500MCM sometime. You need a pipe bender for that stuff.

Have worked with 500MCM (not for audio work though) we called that kind of stuff 0 00 000 0000 keeping in line with decreasing gauge numbers.

"Zip" cord is generally any two conductor cable with the conductors side by side having a somewhat eliptical to rectangular cross section. (two circles next to each other)

Most common is 18 guage "Lamp cord".

12 gauge 2 conductor stranded is not quite as bad as solid and is actually very good for long speaker runs (100-200 feet). I generally cheat a little and use 14 gauge for that length.

I think we are off topic so best we stop?

I think we are off topic so best we stop?No, don’t stop, this is interesting. I’m looking at a 100 pieces of 50’ 4/0 as we speak (for use in film production). :D

No, don’t stop, this is interesting. I’m looking at a 100 pieces of 50’ 4/0 as we speak (for use in film production). :D
I promise this is my last . . .

My experience with 500MCM is in the field of self-defense. :)

Cool a speaker cable discussion. Check out Canare 4S11. Stuff is great and cheap, less than a dollar a foot. I know its used as base wire in at least 2 "boutique" cables. I bought 300' to wire my basement, couldn't be happier. Used WBT-Locking plugs. No shorted wire in my house.

I promise this is my last . . .

My experience with 500MCM is in the field of self-defense. :)

El Kabong!!!

12 gauge 2 conductor stranded is not quite as bad as solid and is actually very good for long speaker runs (100-200 feet). I generally cheat a little and use 14 gauge for that length.

I think we are off topic so best we stop?

I usually factor in what kind of "power" I'm feeding. Used to have a system feeding 400 w/RMS (per channel) to a pair of AR-9s, runs of 40 feet (I ALWAYS use exact same lengths for each side) or so and I used 14 gauge (this was back when the first Telarc 1812 disc was released, lemme tell you what the 4 12" woofers did on those cannon shots!). 16 probably would have done as good, but 14 made me feel good about it.

Set the audio out on the 8300 to HDMI. Then it should sync fine.

Yeah, it does, but then I get no audio from the optical out on the box. And the audio that goes to my TV via HDMI is only 2ch.

I understand the allure of HDMI as a way to minimize the number of cables. I hope that one day, HDCP issues will be a thing of the past, and HDMI connections really will be "plug-and-play". Clearly, though, we're not there yet.

In the meantime, aren't the extra cables involved in running digital to the A/V system and component video + red/white analog cables to the TV a small price to pay compared to the headaches of trying to figure out and resolve the myriad HDCP-related issues that often come along with the HDMI cable "solution"?

There's little or no difference in video quality between HDMI and component, and when we're talking TV speakers, there's no need to get wrapped up in quality concerns re: analog vs. digital. In my mind, the *only* trade off is number of cables, and if it comes down to "lots of cables = it works" and "minimum cables = it's broke", then it seems like an easy choice, to me.

I understand the allure of HDMI as a way to minimize the number of cables. I hope that one day, HDCP issues will be a thing of the past, and HDMI connections really will be "plug-and-play". Clearly, though, we're not there yet.

In the meantime, aren't the extra cables involved in running digital to the A/V system and component video + red/white analog cables to the TV a small price to pay compared to the headaches of trying to figure out and resolve the myriad HDCP-related issues that often come along with the HDMI cable "solution"?
HDMI 1.3 is just debuting. My latest issue of S&V has editorial and other blathering by "experts" hailing its arrival. Of course, there's no talk about how EVERYONE with HDMI today will not be joining the party without a hardware upgrade/change. I strongly feel the A/V "press" did us all an extreme disservice by not making a fuss when HDMI debuted. Every HDMI-equipped piece of gear ever made should still be sitting - UNSOLD -in warehouses and on store shelves. What a travesty. :mad:

Go easy on me friends, as I am a "newbie" in this whole HT thing...

I am shopping over on the monoprice.com site for optical cables to be used in connecting my 8300HD box, my DVD player, etc, etc. They use the term "Toslink", as in "6FT Optical Toslink 5.0mm Cable"... Not familiar with this term yet; is this the kind of cable I need to connect the audio portion of my gear? Thanks in advance!

PS Learned of this site from others on the Forum, what a find... :>)

is this the kind of cable I need to connect the audio portion of my gear?

Yes.

I have a question about settings for an 8300HD (TWC). I just bought a new Pioneer 5070 and need to set up the DVR so that it is as family-friendly as possible to avoid burn in on the plasma. I need to have all SD channels stretch to fill the screen without screwing up the picture on the HD channels (having it overly stretch beyond the normal widescreen picture). If I set the box to Widescreen 16:9, Stretch 4:3, this will stretch the picture automatically on the SD channels. However, am I screwing up the HD picture? (When I leave the setting at Widescreen 16:9, Sidebars 4:3, the Pioneer will not allow me to manually stretch the picture on SD to fully fill the screen.) I have selected 480i, 720p and 1080i.

Thanks in advance for any feedback. This thread helped me to work around the HDMI/HDCP handshake problems I am having since the recent TWC software update.

Go easy on me friends, as I am a "newbie" in this whole HT thing...

I am shopping over on the monoprice.com site for optical cables to be used in connecting my 8300HD box, my DVD player, etc, etc. They use the term "Toslink", as in "6FT Optical Toslink 5.0mm Cable"... Not familiar with this term yet; is this the kind of cable I need to connect the audio portion of my gear? Thanks in advance!
TOSLink, a Toshiba trademark, is the same as optical digital. There is an optical digital output on the 8300HD. There is also a coaxial digital output, which I personally prefer over optical. But you'll get arguments for both sides and there probably isn't any (human) audible difference.

TOSLink, a Sony trademark, is the same as optical digital. There is an optical digital output on the 8300HD. There is also a coaxial digital output, which I personally prefer over optical. But you'll get arguments for both sides and there probably isn't any (human) audible difference.Come on pepar, don't be so damn quick to get your post count up with asinine comments and get your facts right. Does it make sense that TOSLink would be SONY trademark? I think NOT! :eek:

According to Wikipedia:
TOSLINK is a registered trademark of Toshiba Corporation and hence the origin of the name: TOShiba-LINK. Variations of the name are often seen, such as TOSlink, TosLink, and Tos-link. The generic name for the standard is EIAJ optical.

Good catch, Dave, I totally missed it. :)

There is also a coaxial digital output, which I personally prefer over optical. But you'll get arguments for both sides and there probably isn't any (human) audible difference.

OMG, those dancing electrons traversing those cooper wires hurt my teeth... photons just plain are much kinder to humans! Everyone knows that <g>!

Now Now, they are both the same things, just different frequencies of the electromagnetic spectrum, with suitable conductors for the frequency being used.

In the words of Quantum Mechanics, this is a charming discussion, but sometimes less flavor-full than I enjoy and all the colors set my head a spinning.

Come on pepar, don't be so damn quick to get your post count up with asinine comments and get your facts right. Does it make sense that TOSLink would be SONY trademark? I think NOT! :eek:
It's good I had the Ktistec machine handy!

I am new to the whole HT world... I have a new Time-Warner 8300HD with DVR. How can one determine what version of firmware/software etc the box in question is running? Also curious as to what the terms PASSPORT and SARA(H) etc mean. Please point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance... :)

I am new to the whole HT world... I have a new Time-Warner 8300HD with DVR. How can one determine what version of firmware/software etc the box in question is running? Also curious as to what the terms PASSPORT and SARA(H) etc mean. Please point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance... :)

Check HERE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6225742&&#post6225742)

Passport and Sarah are the public names of two different versions of high level software that run on the 8300HD. It is generally agreed that there are three software/firmware levels on this box, the highest giving the graphical user interface, program guide and DVR controls.

Search this thread for refrences to service or diagnostic pages to finf out how to access them. They show the software revisions. among other things.

does anyone know about the hard drive limit for the 8300hd w/ passport?
is it like xp with the 2TB limit?

does anyone know about the hard drive limit for the 8300hd w/ passport?
is it like xp with the 2TB limit?
I don't think we know yet. I'm at 500GB on mine. It's nearly full and I have, largely, trouble-free operation. I *believe* I remember someone saying they were using a 750.

Got someone with Scientific Atlanta after waiting on the phone forever. He says its a known issue. It is due to the fact that when you set the audio output to Dolby Digital, it not only sends DD through the optical and coaxial, but also through the HDMI. For some TV's that do not support 5.1 in HDMI (like mine), this interrupts the HDCP handshake. The tech said there is no way to enable the DD on the optical port and not on the HDMI. He also said that there is a firmware fix coming but would not even hint at a date. Looks like I'm using component cables until SciAtl/TW gets off their asses.

*sad*

I have a similar problem. I have HDMI and component connected to Samsung DLP, optical audio out to AVR. When I select HDMI, I do not get DD out to the AVR. When I select component I get DD. I CANNOT change my General Settings to change audio output (it is not there). Is this a firmware upgrade? Am I missing something?

Cable Carrier: TW Texas

I have a similar problem. I have HDMI and component connected to Samsung DLP, optical audio out to AVR. When I select HDMI, I do not get DD out to the AVR. When I select component I get DD. I CANNOT change my General Settings to change audio output (it is not there). Is this a firmware upgrade? Am I missing something?

Cable Carrier: TW Texas

Via HDMI the TV will tell the 8300 which audio format it supports. It's very likely that your TV does not support DD5.1. Via HDMI it will tell the 8300 that it supports only 2.0 (stereo). The 8300 will then output 2.0 over HDMI to the TV. The 8300 can only output one type of audio, therefore it will be forced to put out 2.0 over the optical output to the AVR.

Via HDMI the TV will tell the 8300 which audio format it supports. It's very likely that your TV does not support DD5.1. Via HDMI it will tell the 8300 that it supports only 2.0 (stereo). The 8300 will then output 2.0 over HDMI to the TV. The 8300 can only output one type of audio, therefore it will be forced to put out 2.0 over the optical output to the AVR.

Thanks for the quick response. What is this Audio Output change in "General Settings" that I'm reading about? If I had this option, would it fix this problem? Is there a reason that I DON'T have this option?

TIA.

Hmm. Do you have the Aptiv version? That's what I have, and I have the setting. Are you going into Settings by pressing "Settings" and then "A - More Settings"? You should see a setting called "Audio Digital Out". If you set it to "HDMI" then you will get only DD2.0 to your AVR. To get DD5.1 on your AVR you will have to change this setting to "Dolby Digital". That's what I go through whenever I want to use the AVR rather than the TV speakers.

I have an 8300 with Aptiv software in Central Florida. If you have a different box in a different city with possibly different code, you may be seeing something completely different.

In SARA press Settings twice to get to the options. Everything else is the same. However, I believe we've seen that cableco's can disable to added Audio options. Might have to give them a call and find someone who knows what you are talking about to get the options enabled if they truly aren't there.

It seems that the business of only passing audio on the port chosen in the 8300HD's settings is specific to the current Passport rev. The previous rev seemed to pass audio on both ports. Much better now that the reality more closely matches the setting/option/preference.

To clarify, enable the box for 720p, 1080i and 480i...set it for Widescreen 16:9 and Stretch 4:3?

I posted with this problem a few weeks ago, where my box deletes random shows when my drive isn't even close to full (after having had no problem for 10 months or so), and with no warning (no hourglasses, nothing). Now, a month later, it's done it again. Most shows were deleted except for 3.

Seems I'm not the only one who's had this problem. I found an archived post from spacecadet as follows:

04-11-06, 04:14 AM
Dang, I hate Time-Warner and Scientific Atlanta. SA8300's (and other SA models) have an annoying habit of deleting large quantities of shows that they're supposed to keep. It's the ultimate DRM--they make you pay out the wazoo for the channels, the boxes, and the DVR "service" (not to mention all the taxes and fees), but you never get to watch what you've recorded because it gets deleted. You also have to check the recorded show list frequently to see if it's changed the save times. And when it runs out of space it overwrites file pointers, scheduled recording descriptions, etc., so programs don't get recorded (even after freeing space), and files get deleted. These are very long-standing problems (for years) that they never fix.

I guess I have to get a new box, but will the problem be solved?

I posted with this problem a few weeks ago, where my box deletes random shows when my drive isn't even close to full (after having had no problem for 10 months or so), and with no warning (no hourglasses, nothing). Now, a month later, it's done it again. Most shows were deleted except for 3.

Seems I'm not the only one who's had this problem. I found an archived post from spacecadet as follows:

04-11-06, 04:14 AM
Dang, I hate Time-Warner and Scientific Atlanta. SA8300's (and other SA models) have an annoying habit of deleting large quantities of shows that they're supposed to keep. It's the ultimate DRM--they make you pay out the wazoo for the channels, the boxes, and the DVR "service" (not to mention all the taxes and fees), but you never get to watch what you've recorded because it gets deleted. You also have to check the recorded show list frequently to see if it's changed the save times. And when it runs out of space it overwrites file pointers, scheduled recording descriptions, etc., so programs don't get recorded (even after freeing space), and files get deleted. These are very long-standing problems (for years) that they never fix.

I guess I have to get a new box, but will the problem be solved?
Is it deleting programing that you've marked as "manual erase?"

Is it deleting programing that you've marked as "manual erase?"
Good question. I don't believe so -- nothing had that indicator on it.

Now that I think about it, last time this happened I think it did maintain one show that I know had the 'manual erase' indicator . But I think it also erased other shows like that.

But again, I had less shows saved than I usually do, and not many of those saved were in HD. And then we taped 2 HD football games, and the second one had barely begun -- I still don't believe it could have been a storage issue. I have gotten the warning indicators in the past when the drive gets full -- but nothing like that happened. I guess i could try to put 'manual erase' on everything -- PITA!!! But if everything is set to 'manual erase' and it gets full, what happens? Does it just implode? :eek:

I got my box in January -- has anything changed hardware-wise since then?

Going to TWCNYC is like root canal -- would like to avoid unless I have to, of course.

Thanks for caring!

I guess i could try to put 'manual erase' on everything -- PITA!!!
That's what the rest of us do.

But if everything is set to 'manual erase' and it gets full, what happens?
It simply will not record more if there's no free space and all existing content is protected with manual erase status. It's up to you to look at what you've got, the remaining space available, the programs that you want to record and then decide for yourself. Personally, I would never let that decision to the box.

Gosh I never thought of actually setting 'manual erase' with every show.

Running to the remote! ...


Much thanks for the advice.

Gosh I never thought of actually setting 'manual erase' with every show.

Running to the remote! ...


Much thanks for the advice.
If it erases things marked manual erase, then you *do* have a problem.

If it erases things marked manual erase, then you *do* have a problem.

We will cross that Rubicon when we come to it. Hopefully, never.

New development: I didn't change anything, and now the DVR says two of my 4 shows will expire in 2 days. There's about 4 hours on the drive.

???

something is seriously wrong.

New development: I didn't change anything, and now the DVR says two of my 4 shows will expire in 2 days. There's about 4 hours on the drive.

???

something is seriously wrong.

Do you have lots of shows scheduled to record in the next week? When my dvr is partly full and I have numerous shows set to record, the dvr thinks ahead and lets me know via the hourglass that some shows will eventually be dropped.

Do you have lots of shows scheduled to record in the next week? When my dvr is partly full and I have numerous shows set to record, the dvr thinks ahead and lets me know via the hourglass that some shows will eventually be dropped.

No, no major scheduling in the next week. Checked that. It seems to be a glitchy.

p.s. I rebooted and the hourglasses disappeared. I'm afraid it's time for, oh no, a NEW BOX.

No, no major scheduling in the next week. Checked that. It seems to be a glitchy.

p.s. I rebooted and the hourglasses disappeared. I'm afraid it's time for, oh no, a NEW BOX.

Or perhaps... a Tivo Series 3..... :)

Or perhaps... a Tivo Series 3..... :)


Yeah, and NFL Ticket and ESPN HD, NEITHER of which I have :mad:

Addendum: But all of a sudden I have time to watch the Battle of Algiers on DVD. Amazing film, incredibly relevant today.

New development: I didn't change anything, and now the DVR says two of my 4 shows will expire in 2 days. There's about 4 hours on the drive.

???

something is seriously wrong.
Sorry to be pepar-one-note, but did you have them designated manual erase?

Sorry to be pepar-one-note, but did you have them designated manual erase?

No I hadn't (at that point). But it abruptly stopped behaving like that. :rolleyes:

New development: I didn't change anything, and now the DVR says two of my 4 shows will expire in 2 days. There's about 4 hours on the drive.

???

something is seriously wrong.

I think the default is "until space is needed." That should work perfectly fine for everyone... as long as one is given sufficient warning. My observation is that it gives slightly "more" warning than is strictly needed.

When the "warnings" show up, it will tag the hourglass (indicating about 2 days to go) to some and add "3 days, 4 days" to other recorded programs in the "recorded programs" listing. Obviously it is taking into account stuff that is scheduled to be recorded.

My only "not quite normal" observation is that the warnings are sometimes ahead of time. As in I try and calculate how accurate they are and find that the next 48 hours does NOT totally fill up the drive. Nevertheless, I'd still very much have it be optimistic than not giving me plenty of warning!

FYI this does happen frequently because I make extensive use of the "series" feature. As in I want everything I could ever be possibly interested in tagged for recording. Typically I turn a lot of them off.

So far, I have only come "close" once where I saw a 1 day indicator.

I think the default is "until space is needed." That should work perfectly fine for everyone... as long as one is given sufficient warning. My observation is that it gives slightly "more" warning than is strictly needed.

When the "warnings" show up, it will tag the hourglass (indicating about 2 days to go) to some and add "3 days, 4 days" to other recorded programs in the "recorded programs" listing. Obviously it is taking into account stuff that is scheduled to be recorded.

My only "not quite normal" observation is that the warnings are sometimes ahead of time. As in I try and calculate how accurate they are and find that the next 48 hours does NOT totally fill up the drive. Nevertheless, I'd still very much have it be optimistic than not giving me plenty of warning!

FYI this does happen frequently because I make extensive use of the "series" feature. As in I want everything I could ever be possibly interested in tagged for recording. Typically I turn a lot of them off.

So far, I have only come "close" once where I saw a 1 day indicator.

Yup, Riverside Guy, that's exactly what I've gotten in the past. So that's why I'm totally perplexed that it suddenly randomly deletes 95% of my shows with no notice. I'm gonna try the 'manual erase' trick and see how that works. I was going to call TWC but am really not motivated today.

How many hours of SD/HD are we figuring these boxes hold? I had heard 25 hours of HD/75 hours SD, but it seems like more than that.

How many hours of SD/HD are we figuring these boxes hold? I had heard 25 hours of HD/75 hours SD, but it seems like more than that.

One hour of HD recording takes between 5.5 and 6GB/hour on the SA8300HD-DVR. One hour of SD recording takes about 1.5 to 2GB per hour. Figure after subtracting 17GB for the buffers and a few more for "overhead", you've got somewhere around 125-130GB of space available. Work out the space you will require for your recordings according to that formula and you'll be fine. Personally, I never let it get down below about 25GB remaining or things start to get a little touchy with my recordings list. Learned that lesson early on.

Noobie question, but how do I get audio out of my SA 8300 HD DVR to a receiver? I have it hooked up via HDMI to a Sharp Aquos. I have both optical and digital coax inputs on my receiver. TIA

Mike,

What you want to do is not use the HDMI audio. Use the HDMI video to feed the Aquos TV. It probably only handles stereo (2 channels anyways).

In advanced settings on the 8300 select as the audio output Dolby Digital. Cable either the optical or coaxial audio output from the 8300 to an appropriate input on your receiver. Select that input as the audio source and you should be good to go.

Delete, double post

Hey, thanks for the response fellow Central Floridian (same county as well). I'll try that.

[QUOTE=barrianne]
<SNIP>
I'm totally perplexed that it suddenly randomly deletes 95% of my shows with no notice. I'm gonna try the 'manual erase' trick and see how that works.
<SNIP>

We are on the BRC system...twice, in the past nine months, I have had an extensive loss of recorded programs that WERE set at "save until manually erased". No hourglass warnings whatsoever. This happened in the dead of night. Upon investigating, we have confirmed, that on both occasions, firmware updates to Passport were received. Seems that SA and/or the cable operators are not able to safely flash without wiping away our saved programs.. The question that remains is...how should we be compensated for their bad actions?

Yeah it does suck big time... :mad: :eek: :eek:

Upon investigating, we have confirmed, that on both occasions, firmware updates to Passport were received. Mind commenting on just how you confirmed that?

We are on the BRC system...twice, in the past nine months, I have had an extensive loss of recorded programs that WERE set at "save until manually erased". No hourglass warnings whatsoever. This happened in the dead of night. Upon investigating, we have confirmed, that on both occasions, firmware updates to Passport were received. Seems that SA and/or the cable operators are not able to safely flash without wiping away our saved programs.. The question that remains is...how should we be compensated for their bad actions?
You're kidding, right?

Mind commenting on just how you confirmed that?

Sure. Recalling that ,for the past 9 years, cable modem firmware updates and/or cable system upgrades were generally performed at 2 AM on Sundays...I started to watch out for the SA reboots...as a rule, I am up late, very late. I actually experienced a SA reboot live and, thereafter, immediately checked the recorded programs list, about two thirds of the recorded programs were gone and, those that remained had all their save flags changed to erase as space is needed. We had already been in contact with tech support (level II support at BRC is top notch,,,no BS, they do what they can and face up when that's called for) , so, on our next conversation with them on this issue, we were informed that there indeed were some issues with the past few firmware updates and, some others' had also lost their programing. However, this did not affect a great amount of users. It is still unknown why it did affect us... :confused: :p

You're kidding, right?

Well yeah,I did have my tongue in cheek... :rolleyes: ...but when the question is asked...how are you damaged?...what would you say?

BTW, we are satisfied overall with the SA dvr/stb. These program losses were a bad surprise and extremely aggravating since entire series were blown away. But, you can say that it is a somewhat known deal and we can cope with it if it does not become a constant. For future series recording, we now have a dvd recorder, which does not do much with HD content but, it is there...

I answered the OP, so that anyone out there who has experienced this loss of programming, and is frustrated because there is no clue to what actually happened, can now hang their hat on something ,and, move on. This does not seem to be something that we users can adjust a setting for or demand that our cable operator fix. I guess that, for now, it's just one of those things... :eek: :o :eek:

Sorry if this was answered recently (didn't see anything on the most recent few pages) but any update on the 8300HD passing an HDMI signal through an HDMI switching AV receiver? As far as I know this can still only be done with SARA boxes.

Sure.................. Thanks, that sure is strange that it only affected some and not everyone. I guess sometimes it pays to be a night-owl. :)

Well yeah,I did have my tongue in cheek... :rolleyes: ...but when the question is asked...how are you damaged?...what would you say?
I have no ownership rights to the programming that I recorded, so based on my understanding of the legal concept of damage, I am not damaged if I can no longer access it. I would curse a blue streak if that happens as I have a 500GB drive that is nearly filled with a lot of my favorite action, adventure and sci-fi movies, but that's about it.

I've gone through several code updates without losing anything, but I did have a power interruption nine months ago that caused a loss of the programming on my external drive. Poof! Curse. Begin again.

I think the only guide I've come across says about 20 hrs of HD or 60 or so of SD. This relates to the 8300HD TWC uses that has the 160G drive. I guess most of us have a combo of both. I attribute the sometimes flaky calculations into what might get deleted partially to a "confusion" over wether upcoming recordings are or aren't SD. BTW, SD content recorded from an HD channels is probably counted as HD; my guess is that stuff is upconverted by the channel.

Actually pepar, paying money to the cable company is a license to view content. The DVR you rent from them is part of their infastructure to allow you to view that content. If your drive delete data you've recorded and it's not part of some "act of nature" it COULD be posited they are responsible. Not sure I'm take them to court on that, but it's not an unreasonable approach. The real bottom line is that what ended up getting deleted WILL come back around at some point!

I think the only guide I've come across says about 20 hrs of HD or 60 or so of SD. This relates to the 8300HD TWC uses that has the 160G drive. I guess most of us have a combo of both. I attribute the sometimes flaky calculations into what might get deleted partially to a "confusion" over wether upcoming recordings are or aren't SD. BTW, SD content recorded from an HD channels is probably counted as HD; my guess is that stuff is upconverted by the channel.


Yes, if a show is on an HD channel, regardless of whether or not it's an HD show (think 'Inside the NFL' on HBO, or one of the Showtime upconverts, for example), it still takes up around a 5.5GB HD "footprint" on the drive, same as "true HD" content.

I have no ownership rights to the programming that I recorded, so based on my understanding of the legal concept of damage, I am not damaged if I can no longer access it. I would curse a blue streak if that happens as I have a 500GB drive that is nearly filled with a lot of my favorite action, adventure and sci-fi movies, but that's about it.

I've gone through several code updates without losing anything, but I did have a power interruption nine months ago that caused a loss of the programming on my external drive. Poof! Curse. Begin again.


For where the responsibility may lie, Riverside_Guy said it well enough for me...

Pepar, about the power loss deal,,,I've wondered about that very thing. If not for the firmware discussions, I would have highly suspected that as a cause. Has anyone, by any chance, plugged the SA into a UPS for power ?

I believe I've read several posts from folks who use an UPS, though I'm not sure with a SATA attached.

pepar,

Was there a recording in progress when the power failed? That would be bad enough, but it's really bad if it was just sitting there idle and you lost all that programming. In all probabilty, something happened to hose the index vs the recorded data actually being erased. I thought I read where some users (SARA perhaps) have been able to swap SATA drives and rebuild the index for each drive via reboots, etc. I assume you tried everything and just couldn't recover, sad.

As for damages, I think that might be hard to show. How many times have we lost data on PCs over the years as a result of faulty code? So much of this stuff comes with license agreements with tons of small print and I've got to believe they, the cableco/satco, are covered. :eek:

I've got my SA8300HD and a 37w3 display powered thru a small standby power supply. It's only got enough capacity to run both for a few minutes, but it gets me thru the short dropouts that seem to happen every few days around here. Neither device shows any disturbance during a dropout.

Why the duplicate post? Wierd.

I concur with jcybert. All of my HT gear (except the PJ and Audio amp for power reasons) run through a small UPS to eliminate momentary line drops common where I am.

For where the responsibility may lie, Riverside_Guy said it well enough for me...

Pepar, about the power loss deal,,,I've wondered about that very thing. If not for the firmware discussions, I would have highly suspected that as a cause. Has anyone, by any chance, plugged the SA into a UPS for power ?
I considered that with the thought that, upon a power outage, I'd first unplug the 8300HD a minute or so before I remove power from the drive. But then I considered what would happen if the power outage occurred in my absence? If a long outage, the UPS would exhaust itself, but would the two devices shut off simultaneously, or would one tolerate lower power better than the other and remain operating longer? If so and it was the 8300HD, the effect would be that the drive was disconnected while the 8300HD was awake. That is a no-no. The other factor that lead me to decide to forego the UPS was that my other 8300HD, upon restoration of power and without any intervention from me, casme back up with all recorded programming intact. So, as before, I have high quality (APC) surge protection on them, including on the RG-6.

I considered that with the thought that, upon a power outage, I'd first unplug the 8300HD a minute or so before I remove power from the drive. But then I considered what would happen if the power outage occurred in my absence? If a long outage, the UPS would exhaust itself, but would the two devices shut off simultaneously, or would one tolerate lower power better than the other and remain operating longer? If so and it was the 8300HD, the effect would be that the drive was disconnected while the 8300HD was awake. That is a no-no. The other factor that lead me to decide to forego the UPS was that my other 8300HD, upon restoration of power and without any intervention from me, casme back up with all recorded programming intact. So, as before, I have high quality (APC) surge protection on them, including on the RG-6.

When a UPS (at least the decent ones like APC), reaches battery exhaustion it shuts down cleanly rather than sagging and eventually dying. This avoids the issue you were concerned about. Without a UPS you could get the exact problem you were concerned about.... a brownout could cause the shutdown of the external drive while the 8300 continued to run IF the power supply in the 8300 was more tolerant of low voltage. A UPS would avoid this situation.

When a UPS (at least the decent ones like APC), reaches battery exhaustion it shuts down cleanly rather than sagging and eventually dying. This avoids the issue you were concerned about. Without a UPS you could get the exact problem you were concerned about.... a brownout could cause the shutdown of the external drive while the 8300 continued to run IF the power supply in the 8300 was more tolerant of low voltage. A UPS would avoid this situation.
Well, a power outage is a power outage - we never have brownouts here - so a clean UPS shutdown would be no different than an outage for the 8300HD/external drive. We've had several momentary (and longer) outages since with no loss of content. So, IMO, it seems more of a peace of mind issue to add a UPS in this application - unless one is able to use one with 24-48 hours of backup.

[QUOTE=barrianne]
<SNIP>
I'm totally perplexed that it suddenly randomly deletes 95% of my shows with no notice. I'm gonna try the 'manual erase' trick and see how that works.
<SNIP>

We are on the BRC system...twice, in the past nine months, I have had an extensive loss of recorded programs that WERE set at "save until manually erased". No hourglass warnings whatsoever. This happened in the dead of night. Upon investigating, we have confirmed, that on both occasions, firmware updates to Passport were received. Seems that SA and/or the cable operators are not able to safely flash without wiping away our saved programs.. The question that remains is...how should we be compensated for their bad actions?

Yeah it does suck big time... :mad: :eek: :eek:

Sheesh. Super sucks. I called TWC last night and they said, yes, that 'occasionally' happens. They sent me a 'new signal.' Then if it happens again they'll send somebody out (I'd rather just get a new box). I asked when their latest firmware update was, and they said April. I didn't lose any programs then at all. However, I noticed we got a new guide/interface in September (not sure if that is part of a firmware update or not), and these problems have only happened since then. It happened yet again, this weekend, so twice this weekend -- hence I don't think firmware updating is the problem.

Much sympathies -- what's the point of DVR if you can't trust it to keep your programs? Seriously considering TIVO, but we don't have a landline!

[QUOTE=andy1man1]

Sheesh. Super sucks. I called TWC last night and they said, yes, that 'occasionally' happens. They sent me a 'new signal.' Then if it happens again they'll send somebody out (I'd rather just get a new box). I asked when their latest firmware update was, and they said April. I didn't lose any programs then at all. However, I noticed we got a new guide/interface in September (not sure if that is part of a firmware update or not), and these problems have only happened since then. It happened yet again, this weekend, so twice this weekend -- hence I don't think firmware updating is the problem.

Much sympathies -- what's the point of DVR if you can't trust it to keep your programs? Seriously considering TIVO, but we don't have a landline!
If it's happening that often, get a new box.

You would not be able to record premium hi-def content from cable with a Tivo.

[QUOTE=barrianne]
If it's happening that often, get a new box.

You would not be able to record premium hi-def content from cable with a Tivo.


Really? (No HD recording) I had no idea. Why's that?

[QUOTE=pepar]


Really? (No HD recording) I had no idea. Why's that?
Unless I've missed something and Tivo has CableCard capabilities, you cannot tune any premium cable content, hi-def or otherwise. Your cable provider would need to support CableCard, too.)

edit: The new Tivo supports CableCard - you'll need two cards and "lease" them from your provider. YMMV. http://www.tivo.com/series3hdDvr.faqs.asp

[QUOTE=andy1man1]

Sheesh. Super sucks. I called TWC last night and they said, yes, that 'occasionally' happens. They sent me a 'new signal.' Then if it happens again they'll send somebody out (I'd rather just get a new box). I asked when their latest firmware update was, and they said April. I didn't lose any programs then at all. However, I noticed we got a new guide/interface in September (not sure if that is part of a firmware update or not), and these problems have only happened since then. It happened yet again, this weekend, so twice this weekend -- hence I don't think firmware updating is the problem.

Much sympathies -- what's the point of DVR if you can't trust it to keep your programs? Seriously considering TIVO, but we don't have a landline!


There was definitely a software upgrade in or around September because I started having HDMI handshake issues as a direct result of that upgrade.

[QUOTE=barrianne]


There was definitely a software upgrade in or around September because I started having HDMI handshake issues as a direct result of that upgrade.

I thought so -- I thought TWC rep had no clue. sheesh and double sheesh.

Thanks!

[QUOTE=andy1man1]

Sheesh. Super sucks. I called TWC last night and they said, yes, that 'occasionally' happens. They sent me a 'new signal.' Then if it happens again they'll send somebody out (I'd rather just get a new box). I asked when their latest firmware update was, and they said April. I didn't lose any programs then at all. However, I noticed we got a new guide/interface in September (not sure if that is part of a firmware update or not), and these problems have only happened since then. It happened yet again, this weekend, so twice this weekend -- hence I don't think firmware updating is the problem.

Much sympathies -- what's the point of DVR if you can't trust it to keep your programs? Seriously considering TIVO, but we don't have a landline!

You dont need a landline for Tivo as long as you have a network such as cable modem.

Will I see an improvement in picture quality if I bypass my 8300HD box for the "first 99" analog cable channels? I.e., split the line coming into my house and connect one end directly to my tv?

Currently the analog channels look quite horrendous on my Sony A10, I wasn't sure if the 8300 d/a conversion may be part of the problem or not.

Thanks :)

Will I see an improvement in picture quality if I bypass my 8300HD box for the "first 99" analog cable channels? I.e., split the line coming into my house and connect one end directly to my tv?

Currently the analog channels look quite horrendous on my Sony A10, I wasn't sure if the 8300 d/a conversion may be part of the problem or not.

Thanks :)

That depends.....

If your cableco provides 'digital simulcast' then you will likely get poorer quality by splitting and bypassing the 8300.

If no digital simulcast then a superior scaler in the TV may result in better quality if you bypass the 8300.

How you set up the 8300 could matter too... enabling all outputs so SD gets output at 480 would allow the TV scaler to come into play and perhaps give better PQ.

YMMV.

That depends.....

If your cableco provides 'digital simulcast' then you will likely get poorer quality by splitting and bypassing the 8300.

If no digital simulcast then a superior scaler in the TV may result in better quality if you bypass the 8300.

How you set up the 8300 could matter too... enabling all outputs so SD gets output at 480 would allow the TV scaler to come into play and perhaps give better PQ.

YMMV.

Thanks; I'm more concerned about what I perceive to be compression artifacts and some very substantial "ghosting" on the analog channels, rather than anything that looks like scaling artifacts.

Also considering an antenna to see what OTA reception looks like.

Thanks; I'm more concerned about what I perceive to be compression artifacts and some very substantial "ghosting" on the analog channels, rather than anything that looks like scaling artifacts.

Also considering an antenna to see what OTA reception looks like.
By adding a splitter, you are also lowering the signal level of both "legs" by 3dB. If you've got enough signal, it won't matter. But if low signal level is part of the cause of your problem, it will get worse.

Spent almost all last night reading almost all the messages in this thread. I was even able to check my firmware version on my 8000HD (Passport/Echo 2.5.066) but I seemed to have missed which port to connect my eSATA drive.

Should I tell TW to upgrade me to an 8300HD? I'm in Huntington Beach, CA if that makes any difference.

BTW, this is one terrific forum.

Spent almost all last night reading almost all the messages in this thread. I was even able to check my firmware version on my 8000HD (Passport/Echo 2.5.066) but I seemed to have missed which port to connect my eSATA drive.
http://www.scientificatlanta.com/ExplorerClubGuides/getting_started/4003986.pdf

Should I tell TW to upgrade me to an 8300HD? I'm in Huntington Beach, CA if that makes any difference.
You can, but it won't make any difference. And perhaps they'd tag you as a troublemaker!

BTW, this is one terrific forum.
:)

Thanks; I'm more concerned about what I perceive to be compression artifacts and some very substantial "ghosting" on the analog channels, rather than anything that looks like scaling artifacts.

Also considering an antenna to see what OTA reception looks like.

The following comment :
If your cableco provides 'digital simulcast' then you will likely get poorer quality by splitting and bypassing the 8300.May or May Not be correct. If you have a good strong analog signal (without ghosting) from cable than receiving SD analog (through the TVs RF input) will be better. The digital versions of local SD channels are essentially inferior to the analog versions (any additional A>D and D>A conversion degrades the signal. You won't see compression artifacts from a pure analog signal, but then you won't see ghosts from digital. The bottom line is to try it. Pepar's advice on signal strength being reduced is right on though.

Spent almost all last night reading almost all the messages in this thread. I was even able to check my firmware version on my 8000HD (Passport/Echo 2.5.066) but I seemed to have missed which port to connect my eSATA drive.

Should I tell TW to upgrade me to an 8300HD? I'm in Huntington Beach, CA if that makes any difference.

BTW, this is one terrific forum.
As I recall, the SA8000HD doesn't have eSATA port, whereas SA8300HD does:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=516559&page=114&pp=30

You also might find that the SA8300HD in your area has BIGGER hard drive to begin with....

Some have also claimed the PQ is slightly better with SA8300HD....perhaps due to better signal processing...

And of course the SA8000HD has DVI port, whereas SA8300HD has HDMI, which requires different cables....

So, if you talk to the CSR at TWC's over-the-counter service, all you have to say is that you need HDMI I/F.....

====================================
PS: "Troublemakers" are to be encouraged---squeeky wheels gets better service for us ALLL...

The pdf you cited was for an 8300HD, I have an 8000HD. Since there isn't a SATA port, is there another way to connect?

The pdf you cited was for an 8300HD, I have an 8000HD. Since there isn't a SATA port, is there another way to connect?
Here's Scientific Atlanta Brochure page...look for your 8000HD:
http://www.sciatl.com/products/customers/catalog.htm
I didn't see any eSATA port in the 8000HD brochure.....and no, USB port doesn't work either.....

The pdf you cited was for an 8300HD, I have an 8000HD. Since there isn't a SATA port, is there another way to connect?
Yes, OOPS, you (and holl_ands) are correct. Here (http://www.scientificatlanta.com/ExplorerClubGuides/getting_started/4001025.pdf) is the correct one. No HDMI - consider yourself lucky - but it does have DVI. For today's usage, DVI is identical signal-wise to HDMI, but (generally) without the drama. If your display has HDMI but no DVI, you can use an adapter cable from the DVI out to the display's HDMI input, with the correct connectors of course.

Even though my projector has both DVI and HDMI inputs, I run an adapter cable from my 8300HD's HDMI to the pj's DVI input.

edit: Oh my, better change the water in my . . .

SATA, not HDMI!!! No, no other way to attach external drive. Must get 8300HD . . .

Hello-I have the Passport software on the SA 8300HD DVR and am having problems with my Sony KDS-50a2000. I have HDMI into the tv from the box. The Sony TV display always indicates 1080i 16:9 regardless of HD vs SD sources. Output on the box is set to 1080i. When I try to select other resolutions in addition to 1080i (e.g. 420i, etc) the box seems to struggle and I eventually get snow requiring some fudging to get the picture back. Is this a defect in the box? I am assuming that with the box set to 1080i the SA 8300 is doing all the upconverting whereas (I would think) the Sony would be preferred to upconvert the signal. Confused! thanks for any help!

When I try to select other resolutions in addition to 1080i (e.g. 420i, etc) the box seems to struggle and I eventually get snow requiring some fudging to get the picture back.
What fudging are you doing and does it ever perfectly clear?

I have to cycle through the inputs on the Sony and/or turn off/on the DVR to get the channels back...I actually had them change out the first 8300HD DVR they gave me b/c it kept going to snow when you would change from SD to HD channels--but this doesn't seem right since the TV doesn't seem to be getting info about the program source (no program info, and everything as 1080i 16:9)--the TIVO I had before this box info was reflected in the Sony display unlike this one...

Hello-I have the Passport software on the SA 8300HD DVR and am having problems with my Sony KDS-50a2000. I have HDMI into the tv from the box. The Sony TV display always indicates 1080i 16:9 regardless of HD vs SD sources. Output on the box is set to 1080i. When I try to select other resolutions in addition to 1080i (e.g. 420i, etc) the box seems to struggle and I eventually get snow requiring some fudging to get the picture back. Is this a defect in the box? I am assuming that with the box set to 1080i the SA 8300 is doing all the upconverting whereas (I would think) the Sony would be preferred to upconvert the signal. Confused! thanks for any help!

Set your Audio out to HDMI and not DD (Settings, A, etc.). Only change it to DD when using your receiver (if you have one).

I have to cycle through the inputs on the Sony and/or turn off/on the DVR to get the channels back...I actually had them change out the first 8300HD DVR they gave me b/c it kept going to snow when you would change from SD to HD channels--but this doesn't seem right since the TV doesn't seem to be getting info about the program source (no program info, and everything as 1080i 16:9)--the TIVO I had before this box info was reflected in the Sony display unlike this one...

It sounds like the same HDMI handshake problem I have been having since the latest upgrade to the 8300HD software here in NYC. When I get snow, the only way to clear it is to change inputs (which I can do with a one button press on my NEC remote) or shut off both the tv and the dvr. Changing the box does not help since it is not a box-related problem.

Hello-I have the Passport software on the SA 8300HD DVR and am having problems with my Sony KDS-50a2000. I have HDMI into the tv from the box. The Sony TV display always indicates 1080i 16:9 regardless of HD vs SD sources. Output on the box is set to 1080i. When I try to select other resolutions in addition to 1080i (e.g. 420i, etc) the box seems to struggle and I eventually get snow requiring some fudging to get the picture back. Is this a defect in the box? I am assuming that with the box set to 1080i the SA 8300 is doing all the upconverting whereas (I would think) the Sony would be preferred to upconvert the signal. Confused! thanks for any help!
Yes, I would agree that your new Sony likely has a better scaler/de-interlacer than the 8300HD, so I would turn on ALL resolutions. This will cause the 8300HD to pass all channels as received. As other members have mentioned, there is an HDMI handshake "issue" with (presently) no solution, and the workaround is a PITA. But still, once you've worked around it, you still want the best picture possible. And enabling all resolutions should give it to you.

Set your Audio out to HDMI and not DD (Settings, A, etc.). Only change it to DD when using your receiver (if you have one).


But setting the audio out to HDMI doesn't give me 5.1, I use optical digital out from both my cable box and my dvd player directly to my receiver to give me 5.1...

It sounds like the same HDMI handshake problem I have been having since the latest upgrade to the 8300HD software here in NYC. When I get snow, the only way to clear it is to change inputs (which I can do with a one button press on my NEC remote) or shut off both the tv and the dvr. Changing the box does not help since it is not a box-related problem.

so this is a problem unique to SA 8300HD? I haven't heard about this with D* or other companies...Man, I am thinking about chopping those trees down blocking the HD satellite :rolleyes: . turning the Sony off and on again quickly is not good for the lamp life so I would really like to avoid doing that to remedy this problem...

Yes, I would agree that your new Sony likely has a better scaler/de-interlacer than the 8300HD, so I would turn on ALL resolutions. This will cause the 8300HD to pass all channels as received. As other members have mentioned, there is an HDMI handshake "issue" with (presently) no solution, and the workaround is a PITA. But still, once you've worked around it, you still want the best picture possible. And enabling all resolutions should give it to you.

thanks pepar...why do you think my sony is listing every source as 1080i 16:9 and not displaying program info like it did for my former tivo input...does the hdmi on the 8300HD DVR not carry this info?

thanks pepar...why do you think my sony is listing every source as 1080i 16:9 and not displaying program info like it did for my former tivo input...does the hdmi on the 8300HD DVR not carry this info?
In your first post you indicated that "output on the box is set to 1080i." If so, then the 8300HD is scaling everything to that rez.

But setting the audio out to HDMI doesn't give me 5.1, I use optical digital out from both my cable box and my dvd player directly to my receiver to give me 5.1...
I do that, too. (But I use the coaxial digital.) I convert the 8300HD's HDMI to DVI at my projector. I'm pretty sure this strips out or nullifies everything about HDMI but the HDCP handshake. I also use a DVI switcher - DVD player & 8300HD - before my projector. While I never need to power cycle my projector, I occasionally have to do so with my 8300HD. I have none of the problems other members have who are trying to use HDMI like it's "supposed" to work; a one wire connection.

In your first post you indicated that "output on the box is set to 1080i." If so, then the 8300HD is scaling everything to that rez.

True, but no program info comes through anymore either (e.g. show name, description, etc.)-it did from the Tivo.

True, but no program info comes through anymore either (e.g. show name, description, etc.)-it did from the Tivo.
It should display the channel and program name at the bottom of the screen when stepping through the channels. Hitting "info" on the remote while on a channel should display the same info. This is not a function of HDMI as it works for me on the 8300HD that's connected to my display via component. Your's is not working like this?

It should display the channel and program name at the bottom of the screen when stepping through the channels. Hitting "info" on the remote while on a channel should display the same info. This is not a function of HDMI as it works for me on the 8300HD that's connected to my display via component. Your's is not working like this?

Nope, when I had a D* Tivo (albeit SDhookup, not hdmi) all of the program info came through to my Sony display including resolution. Now, each channel via HDMI from the 8300 is "no program info" (or something to that effect) and everything listed as 1080i 16:9. ??

Nope, when I had a D* Tivo (albeit SDhookup, not hdmi) all of the program info came through to my Sony display including resolution. Now, each channel via HDMI from the 8300 is "no program info" (or something to that effect) and everything listed as 1080i 16:9. ??
If your box is set to only output 1080i - as you mentioned in your first post - then that's all you'll get. And 1080i is always 16:9. Have you reviewed your screen format settings?

If your box is set to only output 1080i - as you mentioned in your first post - then that's all you'll get. And 1080i is always 16:9. Have you reviewed your screen format settings?

the resolution issue makes sense, but it seems to me that the tv should still be receiving program info (like "NFL Football", "Seinfeld", etc.) like it used to from the tivo if the box is communicating with the tv like it should...

the resolution issue makes sense, but it seems to me that the tv should still be receiving program info (like "NFL Football", "Seinfeld", etc.) like it used to from the tivo if the box is communicating with the tv like it should...
When I get home I'll snap a picture of what mine - and I assumed everyone else's - displays. Of if someone is at their system now, perhaps they could do it before then . . .

When I get home I'll snap a picture of what mine - and I assumed everyone else's - displays. Of if someone is at their system now, perhaps they could do it before then . . .

I'm probably not being clear enough...I mean when I pull up the television's display, not when I use the "info" function on the 8300-the 8300 info works fine. The problem is, the sony set itself also brings up program info (which used to mirror the tivo info) but now it looks like it receives no info from the 8300HD (program info not available, etc.). Might this be an indication that the 8300-tv hdmi connection maybe isn't carrying program info to the tv correctly and also possibly indicate that the resolution pass-through problem when I try to select 1080i along with lower resolutions in the output menu are also related?...

I'm probably not being clear enough...I mean when I pull up the television's display, not when I use the "info" function on the 8300-the 8300 info works fine. The problem is, the sony set itself also brings up program info (which used to mirror the tivo info) but now it looks like it receives no info from the 8300HD (program info not available, etc.). Might this be an indication that the 8300-tv hdmi connection maybe isn't carrying program info to the tv correctly(?)
Gotcha and bingo!

and also possibly indicate that the resolution pass-through problem when I try to select 1080i along with lower resolutions in the output menu are also related?...
No, that's another problem altogether. Or, more correctly, this is a problem and the former is just The Way It Works.

OT: I have to ask - do you know six other Art Vandalays? :)

Gotcha and bingo!


No, that's another problem altogether. Or, more correctly, this is a problem and the former is just The Way It Works.

OT: I have to ask - do you know six other Art Vandalays? :)

uhhhh, so something is wrong? and if so, is there a fix? I'm still confused. I did talk with TWC and they're coming out, claiming they can make my tv do the upconversion--from what I've read, via HDMI I don't see how...and lastly, I don't know of 6 other Art Vandalays, although I continue the search. For now, I'll just have to do all of the importing/exporting myself (courtesy Seinfeld)

But setting the audio out to HDMI doesn't give me 5.1, I use optical digital out from both my cable box and my dvd player directly to my receiver to give me 5.1...
Correct (a known issue). It stops the snow, though. I switch Audio out to dd 5.1 and use the Receiver (when I want 5.1). Otherwise, I set Audio out to HDMI and use the TV's audio, or tolerate 2 channel on the Receiver.

uhhhh, so something is wrong? and if so, is there a fix? I'm still confused. I did talk with TWC and they're coming out, claiming they can make my tv do the upconversion--from what I've read, via HDMI I don't see how...and lastly, I don't know of 6 other Art Vandalays, although I continue the search. For now, I'll just have to do all of the importing/exporting myself (courtesy Seinfeld)
Well yes, there's something wrong, but from what I read from other members, it's a genaral problem with HDMI on the 8300HD and not *your* individual unit.

Well yes, there's something wrong, but from what I read from other members, it's a genaral problem with HDMI on the 8300HD and not *your* individual unit.

ok, (thanks for all of the input btw)--I had read about the probs with audio (which I have bypassed well by using optical digital out to receiver along with HDMI giving me 5.1 without a problem) but I hadn't read anything about the tv not getting any program info from the DVR like I described--that made me think something might be wrong since the tivo did this (albeit without HDMI)

so pepar, if I might bend your ear some more (and anyone else who might be interested)--what is your opinion on HDMI vs. component for the 8300 and Sony 1080p set? If I nix that expensive HDMI cable and go with component will there be any appreciable difference in sound/picture and, will any potential loss in quality be solved if I can have the tv upconvert rather than the box (if that's indeed possible via component)... :cool:

so pepar, if I might bend your ear some more (and anyone else who might be interested)--what is your opinion on HDMI vs. component for the 8300 and Sony 1080p set? If I nix that expensive HDMI cable and go with component will there be any appreciable difference in sound/picture and, will any potential loss in quality be solved if I can have the tv upconvert rather than the box (if that's indeed possible via component)... :cool:

If I could weigh in on one of your comments ref "...expensive HDMI cable...". One of the many things this forum has done for me is introduce me to monoprice.com for all cables. I just rec'd another box of various cables from them yesterday. Am absolutely blown away by their quality and pricing. Not sure I can figure out how they offer what they do for the $$$; maybe I don't want to know. ;)

Check them out...

so pepar, if I might bend your ear some more (and anyone else who might be interested)--what is your opinion on HDMI vs. component for the 8300 and Sony 1080p set? If I nix that expensive HDMI cable and go with component will there be any appreciable difference in sound/picture and, will any potential loss in quality be solved if I can have the tv upconvert rather than the box (if that's indeed possible via component)... :cool:
My opinion - my free opinion (and worth every penny!) - is that the PQ differences between digital (DVI/HDMI) and analog (component) is only noticeable on LARGE displays. One of my 8300HDs is connected via component to a Sony 32XBR910 and produces jaw-dropping images on hi-def sources. At the opposite end, my other 8300HD connected to a projector throwing a 106" dia image looks sharper with DVI than with component. Where's the dividing line? Dunno, but I'd guess that - for my eyes - it would be somewhere around 60" dia. YMMV.

The 8300HD will pass all resolutions via component allowing your TV/display to scale.

My opinion - my free opinion (and worth every penny!) - is that the PQ differences between digital (DVI/HDMI) and analog (component) is only noticeable on LARGE displays. One of my 8300HDs is connected via component to a Sony 32XBR910 and produces jaw-dropping images on hi-def sources. At the opposite end, the 8300HD connected to a projector throwing a 106" dia image looks sharper with DVI than with component. Where's the dividing line? Dunno, but I'd guess that - for my eyes - it would be somewhere around 60" dia. YMMV.

The 8300HD will pass all resolutions via component allowing your TV/display to scale.

yeah, kind of what I thought--since I have the 1080p functionality and a large screen (50inch) I'm loathe to abandon the HDMI b/c of a poor cable box--I guess I'll have to live with the box upconverting since there doesn't seem like there is any way around it (unless the TWC guy works a miracle Fri evening) :(

A couple of comments to try and help

Audio = HDMI. If the 8300 is set for audio output to be HDMI then the thing at the other end of the HDMI cable determines what audio will be passed over the HDMI link. In essence if the device at the other end says it can only handle 2 channel PCM, then that is the best you can get, No DD 5.1

Audio = Dolby Digital The audio at the toslink and optical outputs will be what ever is transmitted. That is The HDMI (EDID) information from the device at the other end is not used.

According to the 8300 manuals, all three outputs Optical, Coaxial, HDMI should be the same at all times. The audio output setting merely decides what will control the output sent. HDMI implies device at other end controls, Dolby Digital implies what is being received controls. There does appear to be a bug in this area however. In My HT I only use the Toslink connections and set Audio Output to always be Dolby Digital. Even with this setting I do get 5.1 audio on the HDMI cable, and it does switch to 2 channel and back again during SD commercials, but my PJ has a DVI interface and handles no audio so what it is telling the 8300HD is beyond me.

With regard to component vs HDMI. I have tried both and prefer HDMI. Why? Hell if I know. Without an A/B comparison I can not remember enough to be sure which is better. I would need a split screen to do it right but my PJ does not do that. I project onto a 120" wide screen using a 1280x720p projector and a VP50 Scaler. I have all the cables installed so I have tried both output types. It must be my weak short term memory that makes me happy.

A couple of comments to try and help

Audio = HDMI. If the 8300 is set for audio output to be HDMI then the thing at the other end of the HDMI cable determines what audio will be passed over the HDMI link. In essence if the device at the other end says it can only handle 2 channel PCM, then that is the best you can get, No DD 5.1

Audio = Dolby Digital The audio at the toslink and optical outputs will be what ever is transmitted. That is The HDMI (EDID) information from the device at the other end is not used.

According to the 8300 manuals, all three outputs Optical, Coaxial, HDMI should be the same at all times. The audio output setting merely decides what will control the output sent. HDMI implies device at other end controls, Dolby Digital implies what is being received controls. There does appear to be a bug in this area however. In My HT I only use the Toslink connections and set Audio Output to always be Dolby Digital. Even with this setting I do get 5.1 audio on the HDMI cable, and it does switch to 2 channel and back again during SD commercials, but my PJ has a DVI interface and handles no audio so what it is telling the 8300HD is beyond me.

With regard to component vs HDMI. I have tried both and prefer HDMI. Why? Hell if I know. Without an A/B comparison I can not remember enough to be sure which is better. I would need a split screen to do it right but my PJ does not do that. I project onto a 120" wide screen using a 1280x720p projector and a VP50 Scaler. I have all the cables installed so I have tried both output types. It must be my weak short term memory that makes me happy.


thanks for the help--my sony kds-50a2000 should be able to handle dolby digital, however, many posts seem to indicate that audio via HDMI (using the 8300 that is) is only 2 channel-no 5 channel surround capability. I guess the only way to know is to keep the hdmi hooked up and to optical digital out from the tv to the receiver, correct?

I think I prefer the HDMI too when I go back and forth from my component hookup on another tv input. HDMI plus optical digital out sound from box to receiver actually looks and sounds fantastic. Only thing bugging me is how much even better the picture might look if I could get the tv to upconvert instead of the box-I feel like there has to be an appreciable difference! Seems like a simple thing but ultimately is proving to be very frustrating if not impossible...I'm a victim of technology, always looking for a little bit more... :)

yeah, kind of what I thought--since I have the 1080p functionality and a large screen (50inch) I'm loathe to abandon the HDMI b/c of a poor cable box--I guess I'll have to live with the box upconverting since there doesn't seem like there is any way around it (unless the TWC guy works a miracle Fri evening) :(
Try the component and see for yourself - edit: using the SAME source. And try not to let pro-digital/anti-analog bias interfere with your comparison. The 8300HD is not outputting 1080p, and all resolutions are passed via both interfaces.

Only thing bugging me is how much even better the picture might look if I could get the tv to upconvert instead of the box-I feel like there has to be an appreciable difference! Seems like a simple thing but ultimately is proving to be very frustrating if not impossible...I'm a victim of technology, always looking for a little bit more... :)
Pardon my density, but what happens when you enable all resolutions in General Settings?

Pardon my density, but what happens when you enable all resolutions in General Settings?

it keeps the sound but goes to snow and it's hard to bring it out of the snow...

8300 HDMI audio definately has 5.1 with the audio output set to dolby digital. That is the setup I use and I get excellent dolby digital at 2.0 and 5.1 out of the optical and coaxial ports, and when I choose to use the HDMI audio, it is there also.

it keeps the sound but goes to snow and it's hard to bring it out of the snow...

I forget the work arounds for this, but they've been posted in this thread (probably by me). Do a word search on "snow" (and "HDMI").

Set the Audio out to DD and use the Receiver. Make sure you change it back to HDMI before changing Video Source (e.g., from Component to HDMI). I even think changing channel up/down removes the snow.

The adventure continues:
Traded in my 8000HD for an 8300HD by claiming I needed HDMI as you suggested.
Hooked it up, checked the "diags". Passport Echo 2.5.066 Under Feature Autorization it said SATA : YES (No Check) I have no idea what No Check means.

Powered it down and disconnected it. Conected my Maxtor 250GB in a SATA enclosure to the 8300HD with an eSATA cable powered it up and plugged in the 8300HD. Lights flashed but nothing happened. No message re: formatting. Screeen went blank. I hit the power button and the unit loaded the Passport software and started working normally.

Repeated above 2 more times with same result. Any suggestions?

Thanks for the help.

whiteypeterson

I powered down the 8300HD, rebooted it, powered up the external drive and hot-plugged them together.

The quote is from the link (pg 22) in pepar's signature. Did you turn them both on and then "hot plug" them together?????

I have a problem that I did not see specifically addressed (might have overlooked?). A couple of weeks ago I upgraded to two SA 8300 HD boxes. I have used both component cables and HDMI cables as a connection. I am getting what most would call tiling or pixilation, but some may call sparkles or macroblocks. It is not constant, but is frequent and annoying.

I wound up calling TWC San Diego and was given the usual spiel of unplug the box for 30 seconds and see if that fixes the issue. It didn’t, so they are saying to switch out the boxes. Does that sound right? Could it be that I have two bad boxes or is there something else going on with the signal?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

The quote is from the link (pg 22) in pepar's signature. Did you turn them both on and then "hot plug" them together?????
You guys are geniuses. Hot connecting the drive did the trick. The "diag" for the disk capacity looks just like the picture on p.22.

I can't thank all of you enough.

whiteypeterson

I have a problem that I did not see specifically addressed (might have overlooked?). A couple of weeks ago I upgraded to two SA 8300 HD boxes. I have used both component cables and HDMI cables as a connection. I am getting what most would call tiling or pixilation, but some may call sparkles or macroblocks. It is not constant, but is frequent and annoying.

I wound up calling TWC San Diego and was given the usual spiel of unplug the box for 30 seconds and see if that fixes the issue. It didn’t, so they are saying to switch out the boxes. Does that sound right? Could it be that I have two bad boxes or is there something else going on with the signal?

Thanks for any help you can provide.
They should do a truck roll and have the tech check signal levels. Sounds to me like they're stalling with that "switch the boxes" stuff. Maybe they've reached some yearly budgetary ceiling for support. :rolleyes:

FWIW, after the 2.5.066 update, I would get momentary snow when switching HD channels that broadcast to different standards. i.e. going from a 720p station to a 1080i station. AND I have my 8300 set to pass the broadcast resolutions to the TV so the TV can do it's scaling/deinterlacing thing.

AFAIK, NO TV "handles" DD 5.1. Most of them try to "simulate" multi-channel sound, but none have the right decoding chips to deal with AC/3 audio.

Before 2.5.066, no matter how I had the 8300 set, audio passed both through optical/coax AND HDMI. I HAD to disable the TV speakers because routinely I use my AVR. After the 2.5.066 update, audio passes ONLY on the method selected in the 8300 settings menu.

I am getting what most would call tiling or pixilation, but some may call sparkles or macroblocks. It is not constant, but is frequent and annoying.


I am having a similar problem, though my pixelation seems to always be there, I guess I should call Time Warner :(

Oddly though, on another TV in the house (similar TV actually), there are no such problems.

Not so odd depending on what is different about the 2 cable runs. Since many tiling/pixelation problems are caused by signal levels, do you have any splitters, etc., on one line and not the other?

They should do a truck roll and have the tech check signal levels. Sounds to me like they're stalling with that "switch the boxes" stuff. Maybe they've reached some yearly budgetary ceiling for support. :rolleyes:

Thanks for posting back. Dave also mentions the signal strength in regards to another post above, so I will have to call TWC back.

I do have splitters on both of my connections, but I took the splitters off last night and plugged the wall cable directly into the DVR. Same thing with the tiling. Gets worse each day too!

Riverside_guy, Are you sure anout what you said on the audio after 2.5.066.

I get the HDMI audio on the HDMI cable and the optical and the coaxial outputs as long as I have the audio output advanced setting as Dolby Digital. In fact I believe it works as documented by SA in that the audio output advanced setting merely controls whether the HDMI received "display capabilty" controls what audio will be transmitted (HDMI Setting) or If that is disregarded and the audio data received is put on the wire (in fact all three wires). I chose Dolby Digital to eliminate handshake timing as I switch between HDMI inputs. With these settings the system is working perfectly in that SD commercials come in at DD 2.0 and the main HD program comes in as what is brioadcast (e.g. DD 5.1) and it does not matter where I take the Audio from.

The HDMI cable from the DVR's go through a scaler and then to a PJ via a DVI input.

Thanks for posting back. Dave also mentions the signal strength in regards to another post above, so I will have to call TWC back.

I do have splitters on both of my connections, but I took the splitters off last night and plugged the wall cable directly into the DVR. Same thing with the tiling. Gets worse each day too!
My last two service visits were for low signal/ingress. Over those two visits the techs replaced F-connectors from THE POLE to my DVRs and cable modem, including head-end wiring and wallplates. And installed new splitters/tap.

Former TiVo user, now using the 8300HD in order to get HD content, I have a couple questions:

. Is there a setting to stop the box from "Kicking out to live" when watching a show and your recording is done?

. The manual says that turning the box off when you aren't using it will help make it live longer. Any truth to this statement? It would seem like the box behaves similarly when off.

. Are there any hidden menus on the box, I have checked out the diagnostic screen, but aside from info, doesn't seem to have many settings.

Thanks!

Riverside_guy, Are you sure anout what you said on the audio after 2.5.066.

Absolutely. I do use my AVR full time for audio; back in the beginning (when i was running 1.8.x), I first tried with the TV speakers on because I liked the turn on/off sounds it did (I used HDMI to the TV and optical to my AVR). But running the TV speakers with the AVR kinda messes up my nice balanced audio setup, so I disabled the TV speakers. After a mention here about 2.5.066, I was able to re-enable the TV speakers so I got my sound effects BUT, the TV speakers stayed silent during normal audio because my 8300 was set to Dolby Digital.

I have SciAtl 8300HD W/ passport software is there a way to connect an external hard drive
to get more room for movies?

I have SciAtl 8300HD W/ passport software is there a way to connect an external hard drive
to get more room for movies?
Follow the link in my sig. And read the LAST FOUR pages of this thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=516559&page=1&pp=30).

Follow the link in my sig. And read the LAST FOUR pages of this thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=516559&page=1&pp=30).

Thanks- I read it -great work BTW-

I really dont know anything about doin things like that - Is there a
external hard drive that I could just buy already built and just plug it
in?

Thanks- I read it -great work BTW-

I really dont know anything about doin things like that - Is there a
external hard drive that I could just buy already built and just plug it
in?
Yes, this (http://www.maxtor.com/portal/site/Maxtor/menuitem.ba88f6d7cf664718376049b291346068/?channelpath=%2Fen_us%2FProducts%2FConsumer+Electronics%2FQu ickView+Family%2FQuickView+Expander) can be purchased online. Google J08M300.

Yes, this (http://www.maxtor.com/portal/site/Maxtor/menuitem.ba88f6d7cf664718376049b291346068/?channelpath=%2Fen_us%2FProducts%2FConsumer+Electronics%2FQu ickView+Family%2FQuickView+Expander) can be purchased online. Google J08M300.

Thanks Alot!!!

I have SciAtl 8300HD W/ passport software is there a way to connect an external hard drive
to get more room for movies?
Are you TWC NY with Passport version 2.5.066?

Are you TWC NY with Passport version 2.5.066?

Yes

Yes
Then you should be good to go.

Known bug: When you attach the external drive, you will lose the ability to pause and rewind LIVE TV. You will still be able to perform all "VCR-like" functions on recorded programs, just not live stuff.

Then you should be good to go.

Known bug: When you attach the external drive, you will lose the ability to pause and rewind LIVE TV. You will still be able to perform all "VCR-like" functions on recorded programs, just not live stuff.


Thanks Again

Thanks Again

you seem to know alot about Home Theaters. I'm stuck between 2

projectors the panny AX100U or the Sanyo PLV Z5 - any opinions?