Originally posted by ewolf72
umr -

'bent98' mentioned that you helped him tweak his XS955 TV a little and I noticed that you used DHPH and DVPH presumably to re-center the screen. Per my earlier-posted question (quoted again below), do you know why one should use DHPH/DVPH vs. using MDHP/MDVP? I haven't received a response to this question yet and thought you might know. I haven't found an answer elsewhere in the forum.

I'd appreciate your thoughts. Thanks,

- Eric

I gave him some general help on how to adjust his set. I have not touched the service mode on that model TV so I am reluctant to post specific advice unless I have actually done it myself. I would suggest you look at what others have posted on this subject.

Originally posted by kkj1961
Hi. I've got a KDF-55WF655, and so far I really like the set. Haven't tried the SM tweaks yet, but I'm pretty happy with the HD and DVD quality. The problem is my xbox. I've got the Monster HD cables connected to my component input, and I've switched the xbox to 480p mode but my games all have a very "jaggie" look to them. I know that on a big screen it will magnify the flaws, but I've read of others getting a smooth picture, even on a big screen. Could the fact that Sony uses a native resolution of 488p be causing the problem??

I have a slightly different TV set (KDF-42WE655) I've made no changes through the SM and have no problems with the Xbox connection. First, make sure you've enabled widescreen, 480p, 720p and/or 1080i in the Xbox dashboard. Also keep in mind that not all games support progressive scan, so maybe the issue you are seeing is because of the game itself. Check here (http://www.hdtvarcade.com/xboxlist.htm) to see what resolutions your games support.

Originally posted by umr
Blackie,

I an pretty sure the 500 was not "the" first. I believe the DVP-S7000 and DVP-S3000 preceded it. I used to own the DVP-S7000 and it was a very nice player. The better D/A converters today do outclass it, but it was great at playing even heavily damaged disks.

I have no idea what people prefer as far as modes go. It can be a preference thing, but Pro is more likely to give the more accurate performance.

It is more important to do the service mode adjustments than to tinker with DVD players. Unfortunately, the benefits of various players is masked with Sony's default settings. You would need to eliminate filtering and enhancements first to enable the TV to perform at its best before you test any player.

How would I go about eliminating filtering and enhancements?

Originally posted by bisache
I have had a toshiba 52hm84 for the past week and I was thinking of trading it in for the we655 but I'm scared of all the calibration I'll have to do. I don't understand all the values in the service menu. Talking to a employee of CC who has the older version lcd sony he said you can tweak this tv to just as good quality dlp if not better in the hd and dvd signals. I was thinking of getting the lcd because I saw the SD stations on it and it looked alot better than the dlp.
I know my thoughts are all jumbled together but I just want to know if I could calibrate this tv, like are all the calibrations that are posted pretty much the same and is their anything that you would have to buy to put in the tv to make it look better.
Sorry...How do you calibrate this tv to its fullest callibration and adons. does anyone have a list of everything that you have done and have you noticed a total difference. the guy at CC said his tv look 10 time better than when he started. I know I'm asking alot but I have to make the decision in the next couple of days. Any help from you guys will help. Thanks Chris

Chris, I think most people have performed the basic service mode tweaks and they seem to make a difference, but I wouldn't say my set looks 10 times better by any means. I preferred the picture on my Samsund DLP mostly because the black levels are much better on the DLP. umr said a filter can be installed in the Sony LCDs which will help the black level but I don't think most Sony owner have tried this mod yet.

I wouldn't be intimidated by the service menu tweaks but don't look for them to improve your set by 10 times. Swapping sets is always a tough decision. I traded in my DLP mostly to get the onboard HD tuner and the Sony does not have a video lag when playing video games like the DLP did.

Originally posted by blackngold19
How would I go about eliminating filtering and enhancements?

I am not telling people what to specifically do in the service mode for this TV because I have not and will not touch one. Many people have had some success using the GWIII tweaks I posted with a slight modification in how you manipulate the menu system.

Originally posted by bisache
I know my thoughts are all jumbled together but I just want to know if I could calibrate this tv, like are all the calibrations that are posted pretty much the same and is their anything that you would have to buy to put in the tv to make it look better.
Thanks Chris

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=491156

Welcome aboard

Originally posted by bisache
I know my thoughts are all jumbled together but I just want to know if I could calibrate this tv, like are all the calibrations that are posted pretty much the same and is their anything that you would have to buy to put in the tv to make it look better.
Thanks Chris

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=491156

Welcome aboard

Originally posted by umr
I am not telling people what to specifically do in the service mode for this TV because I have not and will not touch one.

Any particular reason you won't touch one? Sounds like you never intend to.

Originally posted by lawyerinnc
Any particular reason you won't touch one? Sounds like you never intend to.

I do this as a hobby and have no interest in these sets currently. I am interested in any 1080p three panel technology like Sony Qualia 006 or the soon to be released JVC D-ILA.

What is a GWII, GWIII, etc? Do they correspond to a particular Sony model? What would the 55XS955 be referred to as?

Originally posted by jamokebob
What is a GWII, GWIII, etc? Do they correspond to a particular Sony model? What would the 55XS955 be referred to as?

Simplistically the GWI was introduced in 2001, GWII in 2002, GWIII in 2003 and GWIV in 2004. Various GW (Grand Wega) models were produced in each year.

2001: KF-60DX100

2002: KF-50XBR800 & KF60XBR800

2003: KF-42WE610 & KF-50WE610 & KF-60WE601 & KDF-60XBR950 & KDF70XBR950

2004: All the current Grand Wega models except the XBR series

The XS is a GWIV in this terminology.

I just got my WE42655 today. Can anyone suggest some non-service menu settings for both DVD and regular cable?

Originally posted by Stryker412
I just got my WE42655 today. Can anyone suggest some non-service menu settings for both DVD and regular cable?

Hi,

For DVD I found running 480i out of my (low-end) DVD player and letting the 42WE655 do the upscaling results in a better picture (I'm using component connections from my DVD). Be sure to set your DVD player for 16:9 output if it has such a setting. Get a DVD with the THX optimizer on it and follow the instructions for setting Picture, Brightness and Sharpness.

There is quite a bit of discussion about non-service setting is this thread, read through all of it. Also the official GWIV Owners thread in this forum.

What do you mean by "regular cable"? Are you using a set-top-box? A cable card? Are you watching SD digital channels, analog channels, HD digital channels, or all three? What input type are you using into the TV?

Jeff

Sorry Jeff, I should have been more specific. Right now I'm watching normal SD programming with a direct coax connection. On Sat, Comcast will be installing a Cable Card. After that, I will be watching SD, Digital, and HD channels.

Originally posted by blackngold19



Any DVD players that you guys recommend under $200.00 to go with my 50WE655? I'm still using my Sony N500D Non progressive player.



We like the Sony DVP-NS775V. MSRP is $129.00 It is very similar to the NS975. They share the same transport and much of the electronics.
Biggest difference is the 775 doesn't have the upsampled HDMI out.

I have the 775 and it looks great. I have even noticed a small sound improvement over my older non-prog Sony. Just remember to let the TV do the interlacing.

Originally posted by marcelval
Yes, but the SM settings allow you to set the default values for the user menu, so that when you hit reset in the user menu your tweaked values will be restored. Also if you have to unplug the set, when you plug it back in the tweaked defaults will be setup in the user menu.

Anyone else have trouble setting UPIC, UBRT, USHP?

I've followed this thread since day 1, and finally got my 60WF655 a couple of weeks ago. Worked on the tweaks tonight, and was not able to get any of the Uxxx changes to stick. Did not have this issue when tweaking my GWIII 42WE610 last year.

So I still haven't seen a solution/answer to the question above. For the reasons stated above I'd really like to do this in the SM, and not just the UM.

Thanks,
Rich

Guys,

I just got my 42WE620 this past weekend and I'm very new to the whole tweaking thing.

Sorry for being such a newbie...but this is why I ask the pros...

My question is the following. When you guys are tweaking the User menu settings, how are you coming up with specific values?...For example, Brightness - 40.

I don't see any specific values being shown while I change the setting....there's a slider which you arrow up or down. Are you guys counting everytime you press the arrow key?

Or, are you going into the Service menu to get these values?

Note that I am only taking about the User menu tweaks at this point.

I have had a KDF-60WF655 since November, and yesterday I finally got serious about investigating service menu tweaks. My main sources are a JVC XV-FA90BK DVD player using component and the RF Cable input. The DVD player is set to output 480i (let the TV do the deinterlacing), and the cable input provides NTSC (analog), 480i (digital), 720p and 1080i stations.

Up to this point I much prefered Standard mode for the TV. I wanted to find out why Pro mode was so fuzzy, and why Vivid mode seemed to have so much pop to the (overly enhanced) details.

Bottom line - Pro mode starts out fuzzy because that was the intent. The user manual says that Pro mode should be used for lower quality signals, and I'm guessing that the idea is to fuzz out the garbage in the signal. The extreme detail in Vivid mode is (I believe) because the DRC palette Reality setting is high.

So, after reading through umr's instructions and looking at what other's have done I got to work.

I did all of my initial tweaking using the DVD input since that is the only place I can freeze a picture on the screen, plus I have DVDs with the THX optimizer so I have some simple test patterns. I turned off all enhancements in Pro mode, and set the DRC palette to Reality=1 and Clarity = 1. (I have a KF, and my bulb intensity is always set to power-saving mode.)

Detail/Sharpness
With the THX multipurpose screen up (color bar, grey scale bar, vertical lines for sharpness adjustments) I changed:
MVLS from1 to 0
MHLC from 3 to 1
USHP (sharpness) set to 0 through the user-mode controls
This did a very good job of un-fuzzing the picture. It was especially apparent in the tiny type at the bottom of the screen.
I also tried tweaking the MHFM, MVFM and MVLC settings up or down a notch, but I don't have a decent test pattern to see what's happening. On the THX screen, the vertical bars on the right side of the screen went from uniform to erratic - some got more pronounced and others faded. I think this is a result of trying to display lines that are a couple of pixels wide with a one-to-two pixel gap between them - any slight change could make this type of pattern get funky. I plan to get an Avia disk someday and revisit this section.

Brightness/Picture
I did these settings using user-mode controls BEFORE doing any tweaks to the color drives and cuts.
UPIC (Picture) - set to 58 per umr's notes. On my set I could see all of the THX shades of white throughout the entire range of this setting, so THX didn't help with this one.
UBRT (Brightness) - set to 33 using the THX screen for this control. Note that AFTER I tweaked the drives and cuts I had to come back and reset this to 37 (umr's setting) so be aware that these are related.

Color
I don't even have the THX blue glasses, so I can only give very subjective feedback.
Drives and Cuts - I set RDRV to 131, BDRV to 102 and GCUT to 242 per umr's notes. After making these changes the screen looked odd so I went back to reset the Brightness (see above). I couldn't tell if this was better or not. On the THX grey scale bar, the white square at the end looked a bit blue with the color temp set to neutral, and a bit pink when it was set to warm, so I felt like I was caught in between. I pulled these changes back out and will experiment later when I have my Avia disk. After removing these changes I set Brightness back to 33, and set my color temp to warm.

DRC Palette
I brought up a close-up of a face on a DVD and switched back and forth between Vivid, Standard and my tweaked Pro mode. Pro was still slightly softer than Standard, but I think I liked the picture better. Vivid was still very detailed by comparison. I went into the DRC Palette in user mode and started playing with those settings (Pro mode only). I watched the texture of the face on the screen as I increased Reality from 1 to 100, and saw the skin go from having texture to looking like a very harsh light was shining on it from a steep angle. It looked very much like Vivid mode, and was not very attactive. Standard and Vivid have higher DRC palette settings, with Standard using moderate enhancement and Vivid using higher enhancement. (Note - see edit below.) I'm not sure you can see the affect of these settings (Reality and Clarity) with a test pattern - you may need a picture on the screen to actually see what's happening with the fine details as you adjust these. In the end, I left Reality and Clarity set to 1.

RF Cable input.
I carried my tweaks on the DVD Component input over to my Cable RF input. Some notes.

The color drives and cuts carried over from the DVD input to all cable inputs (NTSC, 480i, 720p, 1080i) so these appear to be universal - change them on one input and they change everywhere.

Brightness, Picture and Sharpness changes affect all of the cable signal types. If you change them for one signal type, the changes carry over when you switch to channels using other signal types.

The SHF0, AXIS and MID5 settings MHFM, MVFM, MVLS, MHLC and MVLC are specific to each signal type. If you set them for a 720p station, for example, this does not affect the NTSC, 480i and 1080i stations.

To try to duplicate my DVD input settings (and using umr's guide) I made the following changes on my cable input.

NTSC: SHF0 - from 13 to 15; MVLS - from 1 to 0; MHLC - from 3 to 1.
480i: MVLS - from 1 to 0; MHLC - from 3 to 1. (SHF0 was already 15.)
720p and 1080i: AXIS - from 2 to 0; MHLC - from 2 to 1.

UPIC to 58, UBRT to 33, USHP to 0 - all in the user mode settings. (My cuts and drives are still set to default settings.)

Finally, after all of this I felt that the color intensity was just too high. It was especially apparent as I switched stations and watched first one color, then another dominate the picture. I reduced the Color control from 31 to 26, and this gave me a much more pleasing and consistent picture on the Cable RF input.

In the end, I came up with a picture that was maybe slightly better than a Standard mode picture that has been adjusted using THX on a DVD (brightness, picture, sharpness and color tweaks via User Mode settings). The picture just seems a bit smoother using my tweaked Pro mode. With more tools and some practice I might be able to get more out of Pro mode and make the improvement more noticable.

Edit: DRC Palette is available for 480i and NTSC, and defaults to Reality=25 for Standard and Reality=50 for Vivid, so it's not a hardcoded setting. I modified some of the text above to reflect this.

Anyone have good values for the regular menu (not the service menu)?

As suggested in this string, I went into to the SM to set my Axis settings from 2 to 0 and found something very interesting. The factory Axis setting is already set at 0 for all inputs on this 55WF655. Is this odd?

Also I assume the proper way to back out of the SM without making any changes is simply to turn the set off? If that's wrong could someone advise.

Originally posted by jjdenver
To try to duplicate my DVD input settings (and using umr's guide) I made the following changes on my cable input.

NTSC: SHF0 - from 13 to 15; MVLS - from 1 to 0; MHLC - from 3 to 1.
480i: MVLS - from 1 to 0; MHLC - from 3 to 1. (SHF0 was already 15.)
720p and 1080i: AXIS - from 2 to 0; MHLC - from 2 to 1.



First, thanks for sharing your experiences. I was wondering about adjustments for the different signals. Are you using a converter box, or a cable card?

I've got TW cable using a cable card and no box. As I flipped from channel to channel (NTSC, 1080i, 720p) there did not appear to be any SM item changes. That's what I expected since it's all from one source. But how does one change SM settings for the various signals?

And still looking for anyone who can tell me how to change the user items (USHP, UPIC, etc.) in the SM so that they stick.

Thanks,
Rich

Stryker412, We have been asking this for some time but did not get much results. Also for the sets that have the extended menu what did some come up with?

Mntmike - The default AXIS setting was 0 for all signals except hi-def signals. If you are receiving a 720p or 1080i signal through the internal tuner you will see different SM settings. The Guide button on the remote will display what you are receiving while you are watching a station (NTSC, 480i, 720p or 1080i). Some HD stations broadcast an HD signal all the time, even when they are showing standard resolution programming. Others (like my local PBS-HD station) will be broadcasting a hi-def signal some of the time and a 480i signal at other times so double check with the Guide button before you get into the SM.

samandnoah - I don't have a cable box or card. I just plug the analog cable directly into my cable RF input. There isn't any need for a cable box or card when the cable company carries the local HD stations unencrypted as mine does. Normally I wouldn't receive any digital (480i) stations without signing up for digital cable, but at the moment I get a handful of unencrypted digital stations that I can tune in and this allows me to look at and tweak the 480i settings.

Stryker412 - For ordinary "TV watching" I think the default settings in Standard mode are a good compromise. You can reduce Brightness a few notches if watching in a dark room, and reduce the Color setting if the colors are too intense, but otherwise it's a very decent picture. Purists will want to use Pro mode to get at all of the refinements, but it's going to be a lot more work to get an optimum picture, and that optimum will only apply to certain signal types and ambient lighting conditions (i.e. - home theater).

JJDenver thanks for the info. So I wait for ATSC broadcast and then adjust Axis from 2 to 0.

Originally posted by jjdenver
samandnoah - I don't have a cable box or card. I just plug the analog cable directly into my cable RF input. There isn't any need for a cable box or card when the cable company carries the local HD stations unencrypted as mine does. Normally I wouldn't receive any digital (480i) stations without signing up for digital cable, but at the moment I get a handful of unencrypted digital stations that I can tune in and this allows me to look at and tweak the 480i settings.

jjdenver--
Sorry if I'm being dense, but want to clarify. When you changed stations among your various options (480i, 720p, and 1080i) without changing input, did any of your SM values change?

I'm asking because I didn't see any of the values change in the SM when I flipped among stations (and didn't expect to since it was all one "source"). So I'm not sure how one would tweak for different signals from the same source. Am I missing something obvious?

And not to sound too much like Ben Stein in Ferris Bueller, but has anyone successfully gotten the user menu settings (e.g. UPIC, USHP) to change within the SM? Is there a trick? Please share.

Thanks,
Rich

samandnoah,

You're not being dense - TVs with built in tuners and cable card slots are new, so there are new issues with tweaking.

I don't think I ever changed stations while in the service menu. The GWIII tweak thread made me think that you could lose your changes if you switched inputs without saving them, so I thought the same might apply if I changed from a 480i station to a 720p station and I always saved my changes, exited the service menu, switched stations, then got back into the service menu.

If you are just browsing the settings, you might see the settings change if you are actually getting different signals. Note that the very first screen you see when you get into the service menu will tell you which input signal you are dealing with (480i, 720p, etc) so that's another way to tell.

Default settings for the cable RF input that were signal specific (for PRO video mode if that matters):

NTSC 480i 720p 1080i
SHF0 13 15 15 15
AXIS 0 0 2 2
MHFM 3 3 2 2
MVFM 3 3 2 2
MVLS 1 1 0 0
MHLC 3 3 2 2
MVLC 3 1 0 0

As you can see, NTSC (analog) is different than 480i (digital) which is different than 720p/1080i.

When I changed AXIS from 2 to 0 for 720p, it did not change for 1080i, so I know they are separate.

If you use a cable/satellite box to feed a component or HDMI input, you may not see anything change as the cable box may be converting all signals to a single format and passing that on to the TV. I don't have a cable box, so I don't really know.

If you use a cablecard, I'm not sure what to expect. Obviously the cablecard will decrypt the encrypted signals but I don't know if it will do anything else with the signal, or if it merely passes it on to the tuner in which case you WILL see the various signals.

I never tried to save the UM settings (UPIC, UBRT, USHP) while in the service menu. I had heard that it was tricky or impossible so I just resigned myself to writing them down so I could enter them again if needed.

What's all this about Reality and Clarity? ? ? I cannot find that anywhere on my 42WE655!

Also, most of my user settings like the UBRT etc wouldn't let me change them. They would go up and down one or two steps, but immediately go back to default. They'd never go too far either direction. Strange indeed. Anyone else with this problem?

Thanks to umr for the tweaks!

B

Originally posted by briley1
What's all this about Reality and Clarity? ? ? I cannot find that anywhere on my 42WE655!
They are the user-adjustable parameters in the DRC palette that is part of the Advance Video settings (page 100 of the WE655/WF655 owner's manual). As stated in the manual, the DRC palette is not available for 480p, 720p or 1080i sources.

Michael

Originally posted by jjdenver
Default settings for the cable RF input that were signal specific (for PRO video mode if that matters):

NTSC 480i 720p 1080i
SHF0 13 15 15 15
AXIS 0 0 2 2
MHFM 3 3 2 2
MVFM 3 3 2 2
MVLS 1 1 0 0
MHLC 3 3 2 2
MVLC 3 1 0 0

As you can see, NTSC (analog) is different than 480i (digital) which is different than 720p/1080i.

jjdenver--
Thanks. You are absolutely right (but you already knew that!). I went back, and much more carefully reviewed the settings on stations coming in 480i, 720p, and 1080i. They were different, and I've now got them all tweaked appropriately. Changing channels while in the SM worked just fine.
Regards,
Rich

I've been lurking in this thread for a while, having picked up a 55wf655 last month. I have been waiting for a free weekend to do the SM tweaks suggested in this thread.

As I've been reading through all the posts, I've been collecting the various tweaks in a single spreadsheet that captures the recommendations of all the leading tweakers: umr, fretbored03, bent98, blackngold and jjdenver. There were also a couple of recommendations from TH3_FRB and atypicalv. For the benefit of those out there who, like me, like to compare the recommendations, I've loaded them into a single spreadsheet. I hope this saves time for others.

3 quick notes:
- While this spreadsheet can save you some time in comparing tweaks, it is still very helpful to read through this thread. It will help you understand nuances and subtleties in tweaking.
- For those new to Service Menu tweaking, I strongly recommend printing out and reading the instructions from umr on this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=331875
- Every unit and every viewing room is different, so don't follow the recommendations blindly. Adjust for your own situation.

Lastly, while I've tried to be as accurate as possible, if I've gotten anything wrong, please let me know.

fearless--

Thanks for pulling that together. Very helpful. Don't know why it didn't occur to me to do that, but it sure beats the scraps of paper that basically did the same thing!
Rich

Fearless: Thanks! This is a BIG help. I was up last night till 1 trying to tweak my set using various printiouts. It got a bit confusing shuffling back and forth between various printouts and pages.

I have had my 55" since the first of October and this is the first time I have taken the time to get into the service menus. Generally, I like the picture much better for all inputs: SD, HD, cable, antenna, DVD. The blacks are much blacker (even though I had already made substantial improvements with just the regular menu settings.) I look forward to comparing my settings to the Fearless listings in the spreadsheet. Thanks again.

Has anyone had the problem where they try and change a value in the service menu, and it quickly reverts to the original? I tried changing some of those UBRT, and like values, and it would only go 2 or 3 units from the original setting, and then it drifts backward to the original. This is when I go either way, up, or down. . . With my 42WE655. . . .

Has anyone reset the R-gain-G-gain-B-gain and R-bias G-Bias B-bias???? I have used DVE(2003) version to adjust grey etc. Did it in the Pro Mode of my KDF-55XS955. Have noticed after using the DVD the R-Bias is all the way to 0. Can anyone tell me their readouts?? Its under white balance under advanced video??

Similar to MDJ51's question...

Can someone translate the SM tweaks into the options on the XS? It looks like the U*** settings are straight up from the user menu and the DCP-ADJ1 settings are the White Balance settings from the Advanced Video menu (same order?). I am wondering if anyone has mapped the Advanced video settings to the SM tweaks for reference? I imagine that some are a direct match.

I love codes just as much as anyone else and I want to play the game, but if I can stay out of the SM, I will. Thanks folks.

I haven't seen this issue addressed, so here goes: I am seeing what looks like a Y/C delay issue in my 42ew655. Specifically, bright color, especially red, is displaced to the right about 1/8 inch of the corresponding luminance. Is there a service menu adjustment to address this? Any help will be appreciated.

Is there a way to INDEPENDENTLY set the brightness level for SD vs HD signals? On my system, the SD signals have a fairly dark, saturated picture compared to the HD signals.

Thanks

Originally posted by briley1
Has anyone had the problem where they try and change a value in the service menu, and it quickly reverts to the original? I tried changing some of those UBRT, and like values, and it would only go 2 or 3 units from the original setting, and then it drifts backward to the original. This is when I go either way, up, or down. . . With my 42WE655. . . .

I'm getting the same thing. I'm sure I'm missing something obvious, just not to me.

I don't suppose there's a service menu item to activate a 4x3 NORMAL mode for 720P and 1080i source (component and HDMI) on a KDF60xs955, is there?

I have a Zenith 318 and can't use the scaler for 4x3 material since the tv assumes 720p and 1080i is always 16x9 and doesn't give the NORMAL option when going through the wide modes.

That's because the "normal mode" for 720p and 1080i is 16:9.

Originally posted by dmbatch
That's because the "normal mode" for 720p and 1080i is 16:9.

Yes, I know that.

But is there any way to get the TV to pillar box the 720P signal as 4:3 (outside of major H and V size changes in the servie menu)? I know the Zenith can't.

Originally posted by JimWCB
But is there any way to get the TV to pillar box the 720P signal as 4:3 (outside of major H and V size changes in the servie menu)? I know the Zenith can't.
I would be curious why you would want to do that?

What if you set your DVD player to output to a 4:3 TV instead of a 16:9 TV? You might end up with a letter-boxed 16:9 display within a 4:3 window on the TV. Just guessing here.

Michael

Originally posted by Michael Mohrmann
I would be curious why you would want to do that?

What if you set your DVD player to output to a 4:3 TV instead of a 16:9 TV? You might end up with a letter-boxed 16:9 display within a 4:3 window on the TV. Just guessing here.

Michael

Sorry if I wasn't clear. Basically I'd like to watch 4:3 material from the DVD player in it's native aspect ratio. If I set the Zenith to upconvert to 720P ot 1080i, then the TV stretches the image to 16:9.

I've tried all the settings on the Zenith to trick it into pillarboxing the image, but nothing helped.

Since I have a good deal of 4:3 DVDs as well as 16:9 DVDs, I'd rather not have to use the upconversion button on the player (no remote control for this) to toggle between 480P for 4:3 material and 720P/1080i for 16:9 material.

Unfortuantely, I got the Zenith 4-5 months ago (can't return it) well before the TV and except for this, the Sony meets all my other needs.

Does the DVD also have component output? If it does I assume, like all the others I've seen, the scaler is only available on the DVI/HMDI out and only 480i/p is available on the components. If that's the case then you could connect the components to another input on your TV and just use that remote to toggle inputs when watching full screen (4:3) material.

Actually, I've been unable to get the DVI output to work on the Sony (plus some people have indicated the component out actually is better than DVI due to some dvi glitches on this player).

So it is hooked up via component now. Plus the upconversion works on both inputs and you can't have both inputs connected at the same time.


I'd rather not buy a new dvd player if I don't have to, but I may have to (although the 480P output is still pretty good on the Sony, so mybe it doesn't matter...)

Originally posted by briley1
Has anyone had the problem where they try and change a value in the service menu, and it quickly reverts to the original? I tried changing some of those UBRT, and like values, and it would only go 2 or 3 units from the original setting, and then it drifts backward to the original. This is when I go either way, up, or down. . . With my 42WE655. . . .

I hate to keep posting this but I would like to do some tweaks to my set. How do you stop this from happening when changing the settings.

After You change, You hit mute & enter ...in the right top when you hit mute it will Say WRIGHT , then turn to red for 3- 5 seconds. LOG everything befor you change them. This way you won't get lost or can't remember factory setting.....Hit reset on your remote before & after you get out of the service menu....

Thanks! I guess you have to do that quickly since it changes back to the original setting within seconds.

Originally posted by G.B.
After You change, You hit mute & enter ...in the right top when you hit mute it will Say WRIGHT , then turn to red for 3- 5 seconds. LOG everything befor you change them. This way you won't get lost or can't remember factory setting.....Hit reset on your remote before & after you get out of the service menu....

Seriously. . . There is no time to hit anything between the time it is changed, and the time it drifts back to the original setting. It happens within fractions of a second, and it happens so fast, I can't even progrss in the numbering system. If I bump it up two or three, and try and keep going, it goes back to original, so I can never get more than two or three away from the original. . .

Others have found that you cannot change the U settings - they are the settings from the regular menu (the "User" settings.) What you have set on the regular menu is what you see (but can't change) in the service mode for those U settings.

Originally posted by rmullin
Others have found that you cannot change the U settings - they are the settings from the regular menu (the "User" settings.) What you have set on the regular menu is what you see (but can't change) in the service mode for those U settings.

Perhaps that's my problem. . .

Thanks!

B

well, that splains it. I guess I'll have to find out what the user menu settings translate to in the service menu so i can match the recommended settings.

EDIT: That wasn't so hard. They are in plain english and the numbers are 1 for 1.

UPIC = picture, USHP = sharpness, etc...

For all those Service mode tweakers, I thought it'd be good to get a set of default settings for various sources. Better than scraps of paper and interesting to see what changes between sources/resolutions.

The attached Excel chart of the default SM settings for the sources I have.

If you have others please feel free to add to the missing columns.

Dammad.

EDIT: If anyone can post SM settings for an XS with the various options (gamma, etc.) on/off that would be very useful to track those down.

Has anyone worked out what settings some of the XS user settings map to on the WF? R/G/B-Cut and Bias are obvious, but what about things like gamma corrector, etc.??

Dammad.

QUick question??? I just changed some of my service menu settings for my new KDF42WE655 and I'm not sure if i like them(kinda liked out of the box better). I was using the spreadsheet distributed by FEARLESS613 on pare 15 of this thread. I noted the original values on the sheet but in the meantime i kept tweaking and adding vales to the sheet and confused the heck out of myself. I was wondering if anyone has the default settings for onlu those shown on the fearless616 sheet

Thanks
Mike

The above attachment would be close......

Originally posted by mikfoc
QUick question??? I just changed some of my service menu settings for my new KDF42WE655 and I'm not sure if i like them(kinda liked out of the box better). I was using the spreadsheet distributed by FEARLESS613 on pare 15 of this thread. I noted the original values on the sheet but in the meantime i kept tweaking and adding vales to the sheet and confused the heck out of myself. I was wondering if anyone has the default settings for onlu those shown on the fearless616 sheet

Thanks
Mike

Also, AFAIK, the changes only affect the pro mode and not the standard or vivid. I play around with the settings and then compare the pic to standard to see what the results are.

thanks for all the info

Mike

QUick question??? I just changed some of my service menu settings for my new KDF42WE655 and I'm not sure if i like them(kinda liked out of the box better).

I wrote down the defaults for the 42we655. Find zipped spreadsheet attached.

I did the same tweaks and am not sure I like the result either. It seems that turning the sharpness all the way down makes the picture very soft. I thought some of the service tweaks were going to fix that but I find myself switching to "standard" more often than not, depending on what I'm watching.

Has anyone tweaked an XS955 just using the user menu and not the service menu? Have you found settings that give you a good balance of great picture quality and good black level details?

Thanks.

PackFan:

I have an XS955 and yesterday I had an ISF calibrator over to set the grayscale, etc. He "ran out of adjustments" in the user menu to set it properly. Once you do it in the service menu, you can fine tune individual inputs via the user menu, but it was simply not enough range to perform the initial adjustment.

Everybody:
I got overly zealous for a second while playing with color decoder settings in DCP-USER (individual red and green decoders, not AXIS) and forgot to write down defaults for 720p scan rate (they are different than for 480i/p). Can anybody verify that they are the same as for 1080i? (please, please...). I am fairly sure that XS is the same as WF, and most likely WE.

Thanks for any help.

Originally posted by ibarskiy
PackFan:

I have an XS955 and yesterday I had an ISF calibrator over to set the grayscale, etc. He "ran out of adjustments" in the user menu to set it properly. Once you do it in the service menu, you can fine tune individual inputs via the user menu, but it was simply not enough range to perform the initial adjustment.
I had the exact same experience that you did, ibarskiy. The ISF calibrator who did my set on Sunday first tried the "Advanced Video":"White Balance" settings in the user menu, but realized they did not have enough "range"... but he could do it much better in the service menu.

-Terry

look where ? The page cannot be found

Dead link!

Dead linkkkk!!! :). Im surprised to see on this forum that not many people like to share their calibrated Service Menu settings for 60XS955. If any of you folks want to trade since I have calibrated SM settings for samsung 61" DLP which I calibrated and ofcourse returned for 60XS955. I would post them for 60XS955 SM settings pleaseeeeeeee.

ok, this may not be the perfect thread, but i'll try it here. i have a kdf55wf655. when switching between channels with my OTA antenna hooked up, picking up dtv, the optical output will switch from dd to analog, even if going from a digital channel to another digital channel. this causes my receiver, a kenwood vr-3080, to switch to analog for a split second, then back to dd. this is getting pretty annoying. anything in the tv i can set? i looked in my receiver's manual, but i don't see where you tell it to stay fixed on a certain codec. thanks.

Originally posted by ibarskiy
PackFan:

I have an XS955 and yesterday I had an ISF calibrator over to set the grayscale, etc. He "ran out of adjustments" in the user menu to set it properly. Once you do it in the service menu, you can fine tune individual inputs via the user menu, but it was simply not enough range to perform the initial adjustment.

Everybody:
I got overly zealous for a second while playing with color decoder settings in DCP-USER (individual red and green decoders, not AXIS) and forgot to write down defaults for 720p scan rate (they are different than for 480i/p). Can anybody verify that they are the same as for 1080i? (please, please...). I am fairly sure that XS is the same as WF, and most likely WE.

Thanks for any help.

Guys... I appreciate that you had your sets ISF-calibrated. I did that with my first HDTV set.

However, I am just looking for what people have been satisfied with so far with good black detail and such just through using the user menu adjustments on an XS955 set. I may still eventually get my set ISF calibrated as well, but probably not in the immediate future.

New to this HDTV stuff. I purchased a sony kdf-50we655 tv from BB. The Tv has horizonal lines accross diffrent scenes in the pictures or if it is a picture of a person they may look real jagged around them or they may have lines thru there face. I took the tv back to BB and got a second set. It is alot better but still does it. I then called best buy service plan people and they sent a tech out and he said there was nothing wrong with the tv set. He said it is as good as it gets.I then loaded a couple of tv shows into my laptop and took my MVP player and laptop to best buy and talked to the manager about this problem. He said tha he could not imagine that 2 tv's had the same problem. So I told him that I had the equipment with me and asked if we could hook up to a tv on the floor. We hooked up to a kdf-42we655 tv and it did the same thing. It had those funky lines in the picture also.
So know I have been reading these post and wandering if some of these tweaks would help this problem. I have gotten into the service menu and hear is what I see

VERSIN O 0 SERVICE
VER NORMAL VIDEO1
WSL 0 480
F/A 00000000 00000000
CBA 00000000 00000000

JUMP BUTTON

QM 0 0 SERVICE
INFO DTV

JUMP BUTTON

WEM2 SERVICE
0 DCP-INT
0DEC 1
NVM: OK NVM-VER : 0005

JUMP BUTTON

PANEL NVM OK 0 0P
0 NV_CC 204 DIFF 1

I don't know all this code stuff but would like to try something before I take this tv back. Do any of these settings look bad to anyone? How do I go from here to get into changing the settings as posted in earlier post. Does anyone have any answers for horizonal lines in the picture?

I have read thru all of these post and now have it figured out how to change the setup menu. But does anyone know anythink about settings helping the horizonal line problem I have?
Thanks
Wayne

anything instead of anythink

Got a question. I went through umr's tweaks for my KDF-55WF655 and was not that pleased with the NTSC picture(maybe it was the source). HD and DVD were beautiful. I had also used the red push correction tweaks for the GWIV of csundbrom's in the GWIII thread. So I went back into the SM with the "default " settings posted by dammad in post #304 of this thread to compare all my settings for the 4 major menus with his and...well...a bunch I'm quite sure I did not change did not match dammad's defaults. I've searched. Can anyone explain this? I wanted to revert everything back to defaults for my cable signal, and have "reversed" all the umr/csundbrom tweaks, and the defaults still don't match. Thanks in advance.

Originally posted by Hatfield
So I went back into the SM with the "default " settings posted by dammad in post #304 of this thread to compare all my settings for the 4 major menus with his and...well...a bunch I'm quite sure I did not change did not match dammad's defaults. I've searched. Can anyone explain this? I wanted to revert everything back to defaults for my cable signal, and have "reversed" all the umr/csundbrom tweaks, and the defaults still don't match. Thanks in advance.

That is strange. I've double checked my numbers for the defaults and they match my TV. Perhaps write up your settings, being careful to note things like Mild mode and other settings. Then others can compare also to see what the problem is.

Originally posted by Doubledose
New to this HDTV stuff. I purchased a sony kdf-50we655 tv from BB. The Tv has horizonal lines accross diffrent scenes in the pictures or if it is a picture of a person they may look real jagged around them or they may have lines thru there face. I took the tv back to BB and got a second set. It is alot better but still does it. I then called best buy service plan people and they sent a tech out and he said there was nothing wrong with the tv set. He said it is as good as it gets.I then loaded a couple of tv shows into my laptop and took my MVP player and laptop to best buy and talked to the manager about this problem. He said tha he could not imagine that 2 tv's had the same problem. So I told him that I had the equipment with me and asked if we could hook up to a tv on the floor. We hooked up to a kdf-42we655 tv and it did the same thing. It had those funky lines in the picture also.
So know I have been reading these post and wandering if some of these tweaks would help this problem. I have gotten into the service menu and hear is what I see



What exactly is an mvp player? It sure sounds like your little jaggies are interlaced artifacts. If you are recording Standard Def TV on a computer then you need to deinterlace it before you try to play it on a progressive scan TV like the Sony TVs. If you explain what process you use to record the shows maybe we can show you how to eliminate the artifacts. I doubt there is anything wrong with the TV.

Originally posted by mpgxsvcd
What exactly is an mvp player? It sure sounds like your little jaggies are interlaced artifacts. If you are recording Standard Def TV on a computer then you need to deinterlace it before you try to play it on a progressive scan TV like the Sony TVs. If you explain what process you use to record the shows maybe we can show you how to eliminate the artifacts. I doubt there is anything wrong with the TV.


********************************************************
Yes , that is exactly what a MVP is. I record my tv programs onto my computor and then play them back using a MVP. Here is the link to there site to help if you need more info http://www.hauppage.com/pages/products/data_mediamvp.html

The following inputs do this,
Input 1 satellite # 1
Input 3 Mvp player
Input 4 satellite # 3

Input 5 is dvd player and it is ok

Local hi-def pictures ok
Local analog picture also do the same thing as inputs 1,3,4

In the service menu it shows the following
input 1 480 I
input 3 480 I
input 4 480 I
input 5 480 I Even though this is dvd componet input I don't see it on this input
loacal analog 480 I
Hi-def local 1080 I

I would say it maybe a scan issue but I don't know.

Can anyone tell me what the function "ClearEdge VM" does?

Thanks

Very strange. I think I'm gonna hook my dig. cable box up to Video 2 with composites since I have not tweaked any of those settings. I'll then go through the numbers and write them all down. Then compare the numbers to my coax. Cable input. I'll update if there's anything funky going on. I ended up using umr's gray scale numbers(which go across the board) and axed all of csundbrom's red push correction tweaks. Might try them later. Now, it's all umr's tweaks.

Originally posted by Doubledose
********************************************************
Yes , that is exactly what a MVP is. ....
I would say it maybe a scan issue but I don't know.

There is nothing wrong with your set. You are looking at compression artifacts. The MVP isn't High Def. A low datarate Standard Def source is not going to look very good on a 50" set.


Try playing with some of the user menu settings. You may be able smear out the artifacts.

Originally posted by NoPlasmaYet
Can anyone tell me what the function "ClearEdge VM" does?
Thanks
According to Sony PR:

"ClearEdge VM Velocity Modulation improves the definition at picture edges, creating sharper images by slowing the CRT (cathode-ray tube) beam's horizontal scanning during demanding work--say, when rendering transitions from light to dark parts of an image--and speeding it up when scanning easily rendered sections, like broad dark areas."

Jeff

Not to be obnoxious, but there are no CRT's, and hence no beams to slow down on GWIV (LCD projection - image created via 3 LCD panels projected via a single constant light source).

Don't get me wrong, I am not offering an answer to the original question, nor commenting on the accuracy of the response. However, it would be interesting to find out what this does for GWIV's.

Jeff,

Thanks for the reply. I have tried the setting on low, medium, and high, but I have not noticed anything. I stumbled across this feature when I was testing remote codes. I used codes from another Sony set (I believe it was a 60XBR) to get all 7 video screen discrete codes. How they were labeled for the 60 had little or no correlation to what the code did on the 55WF.

Makes me wonder what other features I can find in this manner.................

NoPlasmaYet,

You accessed a function called ClearEdge VM using discrete codes on a 55WF? If so,
do you have codes to access Black Corrector & Gamma Corrector? I really would like to try adjusting these, but no one will post what changes it makes to the service menu. Please see this post. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=5147816#post5147816

If anyone could help with this I would really appreciate it.

On a side note: I ordered a service manual for the 55WF for disassembly instructions so I could see if an ND filter could be installed. Will post about that when I know more.

Thanks,
RAF

Originally posted by RAFABAMAD
NoPlasmaYet,

You accessed a function called ClearEdge VM using discrete codes on a 55WF?
RAF

RAFABAMAD ,

I have always heard about "hidden codes" on Sony equipment. In the past I never could find one that I had much use for (or the one I was looking for). Who knows? Gamma correction may be available using a discrete code. Maybe someone has already found it?

Oh, by the way, where did you order the service manual from?

Thanks

NoPlasmaYet,

The manual can be ordered by phone from the Sony Parts and Accessories Department at 1-800-488-7669.
Their hours of operation are as follows:
• 7:00 am to 9:00 pm Monday through Friday, Central Time.
• 8:00 am to 6:00 pm on Saturdays, Central Time.
• 11:00 am to 5:00 pm on Sundays, Central Time.
The cost is $24.95 plus shipping plus sales tax. My total was $30.36

What remote are you using and where did you get the codes?

Thanks,
RAF

RAFABAMAD,

Thanks for the info.

I have a B&K SR10.1 remote (it's a MX700). There are codes for quite a few devices in the programing software (the 55WF was not listed, but I borrowed codes from other Sony sets). I believe more can be found on the internet.

Originally posted by ibarskiy
Not to be obnoxious, but there are no CRT's, and hence no beams to slow down on GWIV (LCD projection - image created via 3 LCD panels projected via a single constant light source).
Don't get me wrong, I am not offering an answer to the original question, nor commenting on the accuracy of the response. However, it would be interesting to find out what this does for GWIV's.

ClearEdge VM is a feature of the Wega engine chipset. This chipset is used on a lot of Sony TV's but not all features of the chipset are useful for different display types. ClearEdge VM is as I stated in my former post, which I believe answered Plasma's question as he stated it.

ClearEdge VM is useless on an LCD based TV *as far as I know*. I do not believe it is a feature available on any Sony LCD chassis, is it? I believe NoPlasma turned it on with a hack. Not surprising that it had no effect.

Jeff

Originally posted by RAFABAMAD
NoPlasmaYet,

The manual can be ordered by phone from the Sony Parts and Accessories Department at 1-800-488-7669.

Do the Sony service manuals describe the servie menu settings in detail?

Thank you everyone for generously supplying your tweek settings. I have successfully been able to navigate the service menu and adopt a number of the changes with one exception: the DCP-USER settings. Whenever I try to increase or decrease a particular data value (UPIC, UBRT, UCOL, etc.) the number always returns to its initial value?? None of the other service menu adjustments reacted in such a manner.

I've been following this thread since its inception abd don't immediately recall a similar experience. Does anyone have any suggestions and/or advice?

Thank you in advance. :)

Originally posted by islandview
Whenever I try to increase or decrease a particular data value (UPIC, UBRT, UCOL, etc.) the number always returns to its initial value?? None of the other service menu adjustments reacted in such a manner.
I believe it has been noted that changing the USER settings in the Service Menu, which are available in the user menu, seem to go back to their default values. To date, I don't believe anyone has figured out how to change these values in the Service Menu and make them stick.

Michael

I'm trying to figure out how to get into the service menu to find out the lamp hours on my 55XS955 if anyone can help I would very much appreciate it.

Thank's

Ahhh - that makes sense. Thank you Michael.

Originally posted by JimWCB
Do the Sony service manuals describe the servie menu settings in detail?

I have the LA-3 Service Manual for the KDF-42we655, and it is next to useless as far as Service Menu goes.

There is a paragraph in the manual with an email contact to get further SM info, but it says you have to be an authorized service tech.

Jeff

Originally posted by HD_OCD
I have the LA-3 Service Manual for the KDF-42we655, and it is next to useless as far as Service Menu goes.

There is a paragraph in the manual with an email contact to get further SM info, but it says you have to be an authorized service tech.

Jeff

They will send you the info even if you are not a service tech.

so what's the email contact? you cn PM it to me if you want.

New 60" 955XS owner
I just got a 60" XS955
I was inquiring about hooking my DVD player up HDMI vs. COMPONENT on another thread and I got this post:

On the GWIV's, the HDMI it NOT a true digital connection from player to display. It does, in fact, revert to analog in the chain and eventually back to digital for displaying. You XS also scales ALL signals to its native res(788P) and double scaling is not optimal for PQ. The Sonys have nice scalers.


Is this true?
1. Is the HDMI not a true digital signal ?

I have a Denon 1805 480p DVD player with component only.

I was thinking about getting a new DVD with HDMI just to see if it would be better for DVDs

2. Is a component or HDMI better for a 60" XS ?

PS I've had this tv for 2 weeks and it smokes! I love this forum ...THANKS in advanc

bump

Originally posted by sillycyberfunguy
New 60" 955XS owner
I just got a 60" XS955
I was inquiring about hooking my DVD player up HDMI vs. COMPONENT on another thread and I got this post:

On the GWIV's, the HDMI it NOT a true digital connection from player to display. It does, in fact, revert to analog in the chain and eventually back to digital for displaying. You XS also scales ALL signals to its native res(788P) and double scaling is not optimal for PQ. The Sonys have nice scalers.


Is this true?


Yes it is. I bought the schematics from Sony.

HDMI is digital. Your 60XS955 converts HDMI to analog component as soon as it gets inside the set. At this point HDMI follows the same signal path as component.

It should be possible to get a good picture from either.
Which one looks better? It depends on several things:

Does your DVD player have a better DAC than the 10-bit on in the SiI9993 chip inside your TV.
What scales better? The Sony Scaler doing 480p to 788p or 480i to 788p
OR the Scaler in your DVD player doing 480 to 1080i plus the Sony scaler doing 1080i to 788p
The set has dozens of internal tweaks that are different for each input and scan rate. Sony may have preset the HDMI input to look better.

The only way to be sure would require getting at least three calibrated (480i component, 480p component and 1080i HDMI) and try them.

This really belongs over in the owners thread, not here. We should take the discussion over there if you have any more questions.

Question:
If I buy the service manual for my KDF-42we655 will it list all the default settings for each input and resolution? Im pretty sure I set everything back to defaults but want to double check. If not, is there any other place to get ALL the default settings? I saw a post in this thread but it only had one column, and want marked for each input and each resolution.

heres a excel file for the kdf55wf655 provided by one of the crew at AVS.

<< HDMI is digital. Your 60XS955 converts HDMI to analog component as soon as it gets inside the set. At this point HDMI follows the same signal path as component. >>

Andrew,

Do you happen to know if the XBR950 is similiar? Or is it digital from input to output?

I can't get a definitive answer from anyone.

-Brian

jojo57, Thanks for the post.I was wondering if the manual for ALL the settings because there is a previous post from a 42we655 for defaults and my set has some different values than those listed ( such as the 23pd value in dcrt I believe)

Originally posted by Bghead8che
Andrew,

Do you happen to know if the XBR950 is similiar? Or is it digital from input to output?

I can't get a definitive answer from anyone.

-Brian

Sorry, I don't. I only have the schematics for the 42 and 50 WE655.
I can tell you the XBR950 series isn't identical. The XBR950 has a DVI port and not an HDMI port. That means it does not have the same 'P' board as the GWIV sets. XBR950's won't have the SiI9993 chip either.

Have you tried looking in the GWIII or XBR950 threads?

Originally posted by Bghead8che
<< HDMI is digital. Your 60XS955 converts HDMI to analog component as soon as it gets inside the set. At this point HDMI follows the same signal path as component. >>

Andrew,

Do you happen to know if the XBR950 is similiar? Or is it digital from input to output?

I can't get a definitive answer from anyone.

-Brian

The XBR950 is similar and converts digital to analog. It does have higher resolution electronics that appear to remove most if not all of the problems caused by this. It uses a GM7030-H as the DVI receiver chip. This information is also in the UMR Does GWIII XBR & WE thread and is off topic in this thread.

Whenever people list their adjusted settings, they designate which Mode they are in (Pro, Vivid or Standard). My question is, are there some "hidden" differences between the Modes? If I took a given set of settings and applied them to say both the PRO and VIVID modes, would the resulting picture in each mode look the same? My assumption has been that the differences between the modes is limited to only the default levels for the adjustable parameters. Are there nonadjustable differences for Vivd vs Pro vs Standard Modes?

Just to clarify. I am speaking only of the adjustments in the main menu (picture, brightness, color etc). Not in the service menu, though the same question would apply I suppose.

Originally posted by drengka
Whenever people list their adjusted settings, they designate which Mode they are in (Pro, Vivid or Standard). My question is, are there some "hidden" differences between the Modes? If I took a given set of settings and applied them to say both the PRO and VIVID modes, would the resulting picture in each mode look the same? My assumption has been that the differences between the modes is limited to only the default levels for the adjustable parameters. Are there nonadjustable differences for Vivd vs Pro vs Standard Modes?

Just to clarify. I am speaking only of the adjustments in the main menu (picture, brightness, color etc). Not in the service menu, though the same question would apply I suppose.

Funny you should ask this -- I have been experimenting with this very issue on my 42we655. On my 480p dvd input, I copied the POP and DCP-USR settings from standard to pro. Then I switched back and forth between the two. While the pictures were VERY close, I could see a difference between the two in some scenes, particulary on standard def direct tv. It seemed like standard was just a little brighter, and pro was a little more "saturated". That said, I don't think I could discern any difference if I wasn't switching back and forth quickly between the two modes.

pb.

In the mid 5 adjustment this is good for all modes. Plus the other teaks by UMR....Each mode though has so many adjustments that is different so they will always look some different. I still don't use Vivid it makes it to sharp & bright ...this is used to sell TV at the store , make it jump out at you...So I left Vivid alone & worked with Pro & Standard..I still use Pro but its because I use some of the extended menu settings ....

First off thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread! I just love playing around with my new KDF-50wf655 and without everyones input this wouldnt be possible!

Now to the point, I much preferred to use the Wide Zoom for 480i sources on my Sony 34XBR910 and now on my KDF-50WF655.

I mean after all I want a BIG picture thats why I bought a BIG TV Right... Well I was able to tweak my XBR910 a few months ago to get better Aspect on Wide Zoom (factor setting is way too wide and Squished)

When I looked for info on how to do this on my KDF-50WF655 I came across this thread, after much reading I found out how to do it with the MID2 RHPL, RHSL, RVPL, and RVSL. Adjusting these values made a Huge difference on the wide zoom. Unfortunately it only works for 480i it will not change 480p, 720p or 1080i.

I need to adjust the Wide Zoom 720p and most of all 1080i. I really Only use 2 sources, 480i and 1080i from my HD-tivo, these are the 2 I really need to adjust.

If anyone knows what I need to adjust to change Wide zoom on all sources I would much appreciate your help. I intend to use the wide zoom mode on my OTA HD when its in letterbox format.

ALSO... I need to turn down the brightness level for 480i sources a bit, when I switch my HD-Tivo over from 480i to 720p or 1080i, is a bit darker than 480i is, and I want to make all these inputs equal in black levels

Thanks in advance for your help.........



P.S. in case anyone wants to tweak the Wide Zoom in 480i I have listed
my changes below....

Under MID2
RHPL 111 to 87
RHSL 170 to 179
RVPL 68 to 75
RVSL 108 to 101

There is a +1 -1 overscan adjustment in the regular menu. I don’t think that is quite what you want though. It will reduce overscan for everything! Give it a try though!

Thanks, but unfortunately that wont adjust the wide zoom the way I need it. I need to cut down on the vertical while increasing the horizontal to make it look much better.

Since I can easily do this to the 480i mode It seems logical I can do it to 1080i also. But since i have no idea where it is located I dont want to go changing values and mess up my HD picture in the process.

Anybody out there know what I need to change ???

Thanks in advance....

I am repeating a question from a few weeks ago: Does anyone know of service -menu adjustments for Y/C delay? I have a 42we655. I bought some of the service manual info from "Fix Your Own TV" but it was useless.

Originally posted by Bghead8che
<< HDMI is digital. Your 60XS955 converts HDMI to analog component as soon as it gets inside the set. At this point HDMI follows the same signal path as component. >>


What does this do if I want to hook up a HTPC through DVI to HDMI? Will I see any difference? Does that make it the equivalent of a VGA instead of a DVI connection? Would I be better doing something else? Are all tv's HDMI input like this?

I am considering getting a 42WE655. Does anyone have any suggestions or what a fair price would be when I'm shopping around for? Would $2299 (CC) with 10% off coupon (Sears) = 2070 be a good deal or can I get better.

Thanks!
mark

sony KDF50WE655
I did not relize that the tweaks effect each input untill I read it earlier in these post. So my question is this
# 1 do I do these settings to every input including OTA channels?
# 2 or or these tweaks for OTA HDTV channels
# 3 or do you do all inputs with these settings?
# 4 is there specific tweaks for OTA and OTAHDTV channels?
Also where is the post with URM's settings ? I found the post from fretbored03. I have been into SM and think I can make changes now. Any more tweaking info would be helpful on the KDF50WE655.

Also I am using dishnetwork sattelite reciever with s-video to input 1 and would like to make that picture look better. Anyone have settings to help this input look better with a satelight reciever hooked up.
( I plan on this fall getting a HI Def reciever, but would like to help the picture quality in the mean time )

Thanks
Wayne

Originally posted by bs77
First off thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread! I just love playing around with my new KDF-50wf655 and without everyones input this wouldnt be possible!

Now to the point, I much preferred to use the Wide Zoom for 480i sources on my Sony 34XBR910 and now on my KDF-50WF655.

I mean after all I want a BIG picture thats why I bought a BIG TV Right... Well I was able to tweak my XBR910 a few months ago to get better Aspect on Wide Zoom (factor setting is way too wide and Squished)

When I looked for info on how to do this on my KDF-50WF655 I came across this thread, after much reading I found out how to do it with the MID2 RHPL, RHSL, RVPL, and RVSL. Adjusting these values made a Huge difference on the wide zoom. Unfortunately it only works for 480i it will not change 480p, 720p or 1080i.

I need to adjust the Wide Zoom 720p and most of all 1080i. I really Only use 2 sources, 480i and 1080i from my HD-tivo, these are the 2 I really need to adjust.

If anyone knows what I need to adjust to change Wide zoom on all sources I would much appreciate your help. I intend to use the wide zoom mode on my OTA HD when its in letterbox format.

ALSO... I need to turn down the brightness level for 480i sources a bit, when I switch my HD-Tivo over from 480i to 720p or 1080i, is a bit darker than 480i is, and I want to make all these inputs equal in black levels

Thanks in advance for your help.........



P.S. in case anyone wants to tweak the Wide Zoom in 480i I have listed
my changes below....

Under MID2
RHPL 111 to 87
RHSL 170 to 179
RVPL 68 to 75
RVSL 108 to 101

Couldnt wait anymore, Figured it out last night through trial and error
(I hate living on the edge)

The adjustments for Wide Zoom in the 1080i mode can be found
under the Mid-4 section...

Also to make 480i and 1080i black levels look the same I adjusted the
UGAM up one notch in the DCP-USER menu for 1080i..............

THANKS!

If anyone adjusted color decoder settings in DCP-USER besides AXIS (RYR, etc.), could you post your results? My filters make it difficult to say what's right...

Thanks in advance.

Yeah...adjusting Red and Green with AVIA color Decoder is a pain. I don't remember exactly what my settings were but I have AXIS = 0, RYB (level) = 0, and RYR (hue) = 32. I don't remember the Green settings but it's not set correctly.

Then I got a new dvd player, Panasonic S97 and now the colors are off. I haven't had a chance to tweak further.

Hey all,

I just picked up a Sony KDF-50WE655 last week. I don't want to tweak the service menu right now, but I've been trying to tweak the few menu settings as best I can.

Any suggestions for DRC? I know UMR has stated to set reality and clarity each to 1, but that was amid service menu tweaking. What's the recommendation if you do NOT tweak the service menu? (I think the default is something like 25, 25).

Originally posted by sgupta
Hey all,

I just picked up a Sony KDF-50WE655 last week. I don't want to tweak the service menu right now, but I've been trying to tweak the few menu settings as best I can.

Any suggestions for DRC? I know UMR has stated to set reality and clarity each to 1, but that was amid service menu tweaking. What's the recommendation if you do NOT tweak the service menu? (I think the default is something like 25, 25).
I would still think you'd want to set it to 1. I believe the DRC will add "enhancements" that obscure the potential for the best picture (instead of helping.) Much like "sharpness".

When outputting 480i via component from my Pioneer DVD player, I messed around with the DRC settings while the AVIA sharpness pattern was up (and resolution screen, later) and it was definitely best when DRC was set to 1 and 1.

-Terry

Alright. I'll give that a shot next time I'm there (not moved in yet - hehe). Thanks =o) [Any other feedback of course also appreciated.]

My new 55WF655 looks quite good out of the box and I plan to do some strategic tweaking.
One problem I notice is a slightly reddish tint right along the very top border of the picture. The rest of the picture is quite well balanced. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Allow me to continue and give my impressions of the 55WF655 after almost a week. (build date Jan 2005)
The OOTB picture is very nice. Quite surprising was the quality of SD programming, which I understand is why some folks have traded in their DLPs, I can see why. Kudos to Sony for making great strides to accommodate the general populus without sacrificing the videophile's preferences too much.

I went ahead into the SM and did some tried and true settings per the UMR and more recent generation threads. Avoiding any grayscale or other unorthodox or otherwise risky adjustments.

I saw an immediate improvement. Not earth-shaking, but definitely a more pleasing-to-the-eye image.

I am approaching everything methodically, and also want some more hours on the lamp before venturing too much deeper. I have not even used my Avia yet.

I should say at this point, that the stand I purchased at CC draws almost as much attention. I will post a pic of my setup later today. But the stand at $250, made entirely of a real wood base, steel supports, and tempered glass is quite the bargain.

OK...here is where I started to get stumped on general operation of the unit. Taking any video from the standard non-HD Dish receiver I have only a stretched image. If I select normal, 4:3 (as selected in the Sat rcvr) it makes no difference, and if I select Normal in the WF menu I will get no picture at all!
And the result is the same on any input to the WF, composite or S-Video.

I have an 811 on order which hopefully will get me past this quandry. But I have the full selection of displays at my disposal with OTA inputs, why not standard Sat digital?
Somehow I feel I was absent during HDTV 101, "An Introduction". I apologize for any sighing, and having to explain this to me again....

On DVD, using my old standby Pioneer 563, I got the expected 'worse picture' in progressive. In fact, quite bad with the 480p input.
I put it back at 480i and obtained a very nice picture. Not quite as good as the better HD broadcast images, but certainly one I can live with until upgrading the player. I have not tweaked this input path either.

I originally wanted the XS955 but found it quite gaudy for our room. Overpowering. The upgraded sound system would have been lost on me since I use my reg. 5.1 setup for most all my audio.
I do somewhat miss the extra couple of video enhancements, but hopefuly can get some compensation for those with some more tweaking in the SM.

Plus, got a great 'out of town' deal on the set, and had to pick it up at a warehouse, and lug it home in the back our SUV, out of the box. A bit scary, but it survived just fine. I fortified the purchase (form an authorized Sony dealer) with a 4 year extended warranty which includes lamp replecement anytime, and only Sony recommended service support, for $400.

Only 3 negatives:

1) The asinine external audio configuration for this model. It's all been said before.

2) The somewhat vague manual, not very reperesentative of most Sony products (ie; camcorders, etc.) where it's quite detailed.

3) Have a very slight pink quality to the very top border of any image HD or not, that reaches the top of the screen. In otherwords, a shrunken image (like some commercials) would not show this. I will try to photograph it with a still picture. Again, it is very subtle. Probaby nothing the average person would even notice unless it was pointed out to them.
Maybe it can be 'tweaked out'. I would not let anyone but a recommended ISF tech even try. It is just too small a detail to risk the rest of an otherwise beautiful picture.
And trading it in is totally out of the question. I can not even find a wayward pixel no matter how hard I look.

Thanks for reading my 'jabber'.....glad to be a member of the club!

Originally posted by videoaddikt
Allow me to continue and give my impressions of the 55WF655 after almost a week. (build date Jan 2005)...

Welcome aboard. Have you adjusted for "overscan" yet? My understanding is it is a common adjustment for the Sony RPTV. Perhaps it will improve the one minor problem with the pink area.

Not sure if its a SM adjustment. I have the XS, where it is.

Originally posted by IamtheWolf
Welcome aboard. Have you adjusted for "overscan" yet? My understanding is it is a common adjustment for the Sony RPTV. Perhaps it will improve the one minor problem with the pink area.

Not sure if its a SM adjustment. I have the XS, where it is.

While in the SM I played with the vertical position a bit where it had no effect. Seems to suggest it is possibly in the panel(s) themselves.
I also thought it might be red push, but I do have AXIS at 0 and no other bleeding evident anywhere in the picture. (with a good program, colors are incredible as is the detail :)

Likewise, with the user's overscan adjust (of course it's very slight) I see no change. Therefore, I doubt the SM OS would be different, but may try anyway. It is MOST evident in a B&W picture, interestingly enough.

Originally posted by videoaddikt It is MOST evident in a B&W picture, interestingly enough. [/B]

Try setting the color control all the way down to 0. If the red tint is still there, you've got a problem in the light engine somewhere (red spillover from somewhere along the optic path). Should be fixable under waranty.

Originally posted by JimWCB
Try setting the color control all the way down to 0. If the red tint is still there, you've got a problem in the light engine somewhere (red spillover from somewhere along the optic path). Should be fixable under waranty.

Yes, Jim. Good point. Color has no effect on it, for better or worse.
If the background is flooded with a different primary color, such as blue, it does not show up at all. Of course with colors containing a fair amount of red it's also not noticeable. But against white, gray, and all shades in between it is visible.
Well, that's ok. I am no hurry to fix this right now. I doubt it will get worse, but most certainly it will not get better.
Not sure how they would fix it ouside of replacing the light engine. It seems related to a physical property of the unit, maybe slight misalignment in the mechanism.
If it comes down to a defective panel, that's another matter.

Any insight why some digital broadcasts will only display in a streched mode?
Anyone else encounter that phenomena? Just noted the same on an OTA UPN station.

Picture of set and stand...note component cable set next to center channel speaker waiting for arrival of Dish 811 receiver.

Originally posted by videoaddikt
Yes, Jim. Good point. Color has no effect on it, for better or worse.
If the background is flooded with a different primary color, such as blue, it does not show up at all. Of course with colors containing a fair amount of red it's also not noticeable. But against white, gray, and all shades in between it is visible.
Well, that's ok. I am no hurry to fix this right now. I doubt it will get worse, but most certainly it will not get better.
Not sure how they would fix it ouside of replacing the light engine. It seems related to a physical property of the unit, maybe slight misalignment in the mechanism.
If it comes down to a defective panel, that's another matter.
...

The wrong tint to white is a gray scale problem not a color decoder one. That is why changing color has no effect. You need to adjust the cuts and drives in the service mode to correct this.

Originally posted by umr
The wrong tint to white is a gray scale problem not a color decoder one. That is why changing color has no effect. You need to adjust the cuts and drives in the service mode to correct this.

Umr, is there a course of action, or sequence you would recommend if I attempt the adjustment myself? Or would I be better off to have an ISF tech come in and do the grayscale. TIA
I presently have these settings:.

RDRV 131
GDRV 140
BDRV 102
RCUT 255
GCUT 242
BCUT 255

Originally posted by videoaddikt
Umr, is there a course of action, or sequence you would recommend if I attempt the adjustment myself? Or would I be better off to have an ISF tech come in and do the grayscale. TIA
I presently have these settings:.

RDRV 131
GDRV 140
BDRV 102
RCUT 255
GCUT 242
BCUT 255

Here is what I would try. I have no experience with your TV so you are on your own with how to navigate the service mode.

General rules....

Drives effect high picture levels most.

Cuts effect low picture levels most.

You want to maximize the limiting panel in your system. I have found it is usually green in these TV's.

1. Calibrate your picture and brightness so you are not running out of a color at high picture levels. The DVE ramp and Avia needle pulse are good for checking this.
2. Place a gray ramp on the screen from AVIA, VE, or THX Optimizer. Make sure you have a ramp that covers very low and very high levels.
3. Turn the blue gun off with BON.
4. Adjust GDRV and GCUT until the ramp looks pure yellow (not green or red tinted). I record the values where it looks slightly green and red and then try the values near the middle of those. You are targeting a lemon yellow. It may be necessary to adjust RCUT to make the yellow even, but I would limit the size of those adjustments to minor ones after you have got green close.
5. Increasing RDRV and GDRV until you run out of green or red at the high end. Then reduce RDRV and GDRV so the gray scale can is even at high picture levels.
6. Go back to step four if you changed RDRV.
7. Turn the blue panel on with BON.
8. Go back to step one if you changed GCUT or RCUT.
9. Set BDRV to zero and then increase BDRV until the high level grays just look gray and stop. I use a photographic gray card with either indirect outside lighting or a 6500K light source to judge this. Be very careful not to make the grays overly blue.
10. Adjust BCUT if you see a problem with low IRE grays.
11. Go back to step nine if you changed BCUT.
12. Check the color decoder calibration.
13. Write the results to memory and copy to other inputs and picture modes if you like the results if not restore the original values.

Thank you for your time & sharing the knowledge, umr!
Interestingly, the pinkish border is becoming less obvious. Or I am just getting used to it. In any case, I shall get more hours on the lamp while taking care of some 'honey-do's' like the lawn and cleaning the garage.
Then study the Avia test screens with the procedure in hand before jumping in with all fingers.

I sent off for a couple of photo gray cards, but my impatience got the best of me.
I went ahead and ran through the procedure you outlined. Spending much time going back and forth on each adjustment before stepping ahead.
Getting the green out was most tedious, because while I could 'make' a great lemon yellow, every time I looked away at my chart my eyes would have to readjust. Plus, the green service menu text was somewhat distracting in the analysis.
So when I ranged up BDRV to the gray scale at the end, I eyeballed it only! Kind of crazy, but I figured I have to be somewhere close. Only indirect sunlight in the room.
Overall, I lowered the values quite a bit, but the picture looked very good. An improvement over what I had. I can still see the very slightest bit of pink at the top border at times. Very, very slight. It is all but gone.
Local news in SD appeared better. Less red in the faces and the other colors nicely balanced. Along with better rez..thanks to a few other tweaks. Most the sitcom HD programming is 'okay'...I now had sharper images but color was nothing to write home about.
Then at 9pm last night the first prime time in full HD was American Idol. I almost fell out of my chair! Picture perfect is about the only way I can describe it. Really stunning! Flesh tones, shadows, everything was dyno-mite! In a natural way too, not just flashy or too hot.
I will revisit 'gray' when I get my cards and see if I need to make more than a couple of clicks. If so, will run the routine again. Still waiting for my 811 to arrive and watch the good HD material on Dish. And the next step will be a decent upconverting DVD player.

Thanks again, UMR!

videoaddikt,

I am glad you had success. As you found out that procedure does not require a reference gray to be effective. Getting the gray scale close is much more important than hitting D65 exactly. You are probably many times closer to D65 than before and that will be a huge improvement. The difference in color performance between where you are at and D65 will be much more subtle.

You might want to read my posts on upscaling players. I am not a fan of those for these TV's if you are willing to remove the enhancement and filtering in the service mode.

videoaddikt

When you have a chance, any possbility of posting the corresponding tweeks?

Cheers

Originally posted by islandview
videoaddikt

When you have a chance, any possbility of posting the corresponding tweeks?

Cheers

I don't know if it will help you very much now that I am begining to understand the 'art' of the science also.
I could say these values will get you 'closer' .. but having no idea where your own set IS...there would be no reference.
What it will do, is show you where I was, and how far I deviated.

Note some of the first values are offset from production numbers, and are the ones most recommended as a starting point on the various matrices presented on the forum. Baselines, if you will. Everyone may go off in slightly different directions...as I implied above.

RDRV 131
GDRV 140
BDRV 102
RCUT 255
GCUT 242
BCUT 255

RDRV 117
GDRV 90
BDRV 102
RCUT 240
GCUT 220
BCUT 248

Originally posted by umr
videoaddikt,

I am glad you had success. As you found out that procedure does not require a reference gray to be effective. Getting the gray scale close is much more important than hitting D65 exactly. You are probably many times closer to D65 than before and that will be a huge improvement. The difference in color performance between where you are at and D65 will be much more subtle.

You might want to read my posts on upscaling players. I am not a fan of those for these TV's if you are willing to remove the enhancement and filtering in the service mode.

Thanks, I will check that out. I did lots of tweaking on my old Wega, with some good results, and no instruments other than the two in my head.
This was pushing the envelope a bit further. I strongly believe in having some idea how you are getting there, not just where you are going, for best results. And approach it gingerly.

UPDATE:

Received the Dish 811 today..nothing but success and good cheer! HD is fantabulous!! Tweaked the input in at 1080i. It's all go! SD pq is not all that different than what I get OTA. And I can live with OTA HD and an indoor antenna, until D* does their satellite thing on locals.

Only disappointment at this stage is the yucky blacks on many DVDs. Running 480i for now with a Pioneer 563A. Maybe try an upconverting DVD if I get one on a trial. Also, will try the THX Optimizer touch up and see if that cleans things up a bit more.
Don't want to get too steeped into the DVD thing with HD players on the horizon which may even lift this display to another level.

I truly believe this generation of LCD projections will really shine when HD programming becomes the norm rather than the exception. Probably the same for several good displays out there. Of course, SXRD, etc. should add frosting to that cake.

480i looks good but still not as good as my integra at 480p....There still too many interlaced artifacts that the sony cant smooth out.

Originally posted by Zues
480i looks good but still not as good as my integra at 480p....There still too many interlaced artifacts that the sony cant smooth out.

So you are getting better PQ with the Integra (model?) at 480p than at 480i using component inputs to the Sony?

My complaint (other than the inky blacks) is a lackluster image even at 480i. At 480p it's worse, smeared. Which I think reflects umr's and other's experiences. My old Wega (non XBR) got a better pic at 480i using vertical compression in the letterbox mode.

For the LCD RPs, I thought the only way out was to have a player that could upconvert and/or wait for the HD players.

OK..now to update my update with a Sony S975V DVD player.

480i: Up a notch over the older Pioneer (563A) it is replacing.

480p: Much better than the Pioneer. not too different than 480i.
Seems to be a bit more 'smear' if you will, but a skosh deeper color saturation. These differences are quite miniscule and are likely artifacts.

HDMI: selectable 720p or 1080i or Auto...no real difference between them.
I leave it on Auto.
Less grain is the most obvious difference with HDMI. Otherwise nothing to write home about.

Biggest difference AT ALL RESOLUTIONS: Blacks do not look as 'inky' as they do with the Pioneer. Still, no great detail, but they blend more acceptably into the rest of the image. And color is more authentic overall. These are somewhat subtle differences (the blacks being the least subtle) but additive to make an improved image.

More analysis to be done. I have done no tweaking on the display with the new player, as of yet. I want to see what differences I can detect with a test disk first. I was using Spiderman for this quick analysis, not necessarily the best choice, but not too bad either.

In the looks dept. this is one classy player. Have had no problem with locked trays, etc. Very nice, easy to navigate menu. Very good audio. Hopefully I have the latest firmware and it will continue to work.

Hello Everybody,

Quick question, does anybody have their original Service Menu settings for an 55XS955 written down? I was doing some tweaking late at night on Friday and forgot to write down my original settings. I only made changes to the HDMI Input 7 @ 720p, so if anybody has their settings I'd REALLY appreciate it if you could post them or PM me. Thanks!

-Mike

I've had the kdf-50we655 for a few months now. Yesterday I noticed that for 'letterboxed' images that the top left side is a little lower than on the right side. On the bottom of the image everything looks level. On 4:3 images and on anamorphic dvd's that fill the whole screen everything is also ok. Only noticeable on those images where there is blank screen above and below the image. Also, is apparent on dvd and cable input. So I assume it is something wrong withy my set and not the dvd player.

Is it possible to correct for this uneveness on just one side in the service menu? I've seen a couple posts in this thread talking about re-centering the whole image, but been unable to find anything regarding my particular problem.

Thanks for any help or suggestions on this.

Ahab, you can't do what you're suggesting. My 42WE655 has slight trapezoidal distortion (the top of windowboxed material is narrower than the bottom) and I had a tech come out to look at it. Short of shimming the optical engine, which could introduce other problems, there's no way to fix it.

Has anyone measured the gamma settings in the user menu to see which of them are closest to the 2.2 standard?

-Brian

Originally posted by Schwa
Ahab, you can't do what you're suggesting. My 42WE655 has slight trapezoidal distortion (the top of windowboxed material is narrower than the bottom) and I had a tech come out to look at it. Short of shimming the optical engine, which could introduce other problems, there's no way to fix it.

Thanks for the info. Sorry to hear you too are having a similar problem. Guess I'll keep my fingers crossed and hope it doesn't get any worse.

Originally posted by Bghead8che
Has anyone measured the gamma settings in the user menu to see which of them are closest to the 2.2 standard?

-Brian
I created a thread on this a short while ago. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=509045&highlight=gamma+corrector

Lots of good input.

I'm curious what contrast/brightness settings you guys have settled on.

I have the gamma feature in the Pro Mode set off, and power output to reduced.

Contrast is at Max
Brightness is a 9

I watch movies in a fully darkened room.

I know this is not necessarily apples to apples but what setting are you guys using?

-Brian

I read so many pages last night and then dove into the service menu of my 60xs955. The results were very impressive. I was about to return the television, and now I'm completely happy. Thanks to everybody here for your time, diligence, support, etc. This forum really made my life a lot easier.

Originally posted by Bghead8che
Has anyone measured the gamma settings in the user menu to see which of them are closest to the 2.2 standard?

-Brian

On my 42WE655, gamma of six translates to about 2.2 (this is using the gamma test pattern on AVIA). Per the Avia disk, many displays are actually set to gamma 2.5 to compensate in very dark scenes, but anything between 2.2 and 2.5 should be acceptable to the viewer. As someone noted elsewhere, raising the gamma service menu value on the SONY actually lowers the gamma; i.e. a gamma of 1 on the service menu is close to 2.5, and a gamma of 6 on the service menu is close to 2.2.

Regards,

pb.

I have the XS model which has User Menu adjustments so I'm not familiar w/ the service menu adjustments.

What test in Avia did you use for Gamma? Are you using Avia Pro?

-Brian

Originally posted by Bghead8che
I have the XS model which has User Menu adjustments so I'm not familiar w/ the service menu adjustments.

What test in Avia did you use for Gamma? Are you using Avia Pro?

-Brian

Sorry for the slow response -- have been out of town.

I'm using Avia- Guide to Home Theater, not Avia pro. When you go to the index of all the test patterns, there's a category called special tests. Inside that category you can select gamma pattern. Hope that helps.

pb.

in regards to tweeking things in the service menu on my 42-655.....
can I actualy improve the black level? I am otherwise totaly happy with the picture, so I have no desire to mess with anything else. The black levels now are good enough, but if I can make them better I want to.

Originally posted by mlodgek
in regards to tweeking things in the service menu on my 42-655.....
can I actualy improve the black level? I am otherwise totaly happy with the picture, so I have no desire to mess with anything else. The black levels now are good enough, but if I can make them better I want to.

I agree with you. I have a 60WF655 and for the most part I'm pretty happy with the default "Pro" mode settings. I have the Avia DVD and when I tried tweaking my settings with it I couldn't really tell any difference going through the different calibrations. I'm more interested in improving black level than anything really.

mlodgek & mpennin30,

Read up on neutral density filters. I'm still waiting on mine to arrive. See these threads:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?threadid=485261
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=406634


Robert

Looks like this thread is dead. Too bad.

Can anyone post the default settings for the following:

Sony KDF-60XS955

1080i mode

MID4:0(DHPL) - horizontal position
MID4:1(DHSL) - horizontal size
MID4:2(DVPL) - vertical position
MID4:3(DVSL) - vertical size

Need above 4 default settings taken from 1080i mode.

Thank you,

-HR

I agree with you. I have a 60WF655 and for the most part I'm pretty happy with the default "Pro" mode settings. I have the Avia DVD and when I tried tweaking my settings with it I couldn't really tell any difference going through the different calibrations. I'm more interested in improving black level than anything really.

Have you touched up the gamma areas yet in the SM? Not a cureall but an improvement you can see.

has anyone adjusted geometry & size in 480i & 480p mode on an XS model yet? my set in 480i & 480p mode severely cuts off on top & bottom & also left & right. any help or service menu items that correct this would greatly be appreciated.

thanks so much guys.
Carmine

Have you touched up the gamma areas yet in the SM? Not a cureall but an improvement you can see.

How does gamma affect the picture?

I just bought KF50WE620 and I have a couple of newbie questions. First of all, does that make a noticable difference to go into the service menu and change things? Is there any documentation what each setting is? (If so, how do I get it) I heard that you can really screw things up, is that true? Although I am new to HDTV, I am fairly knowledge, as far as electronics is concerned, somewhat weak on Video, though
Thanks...

How does gamma affect the picture?

In conjunction with proper set up of contrast (pic) and brightness, it can improve black level performance. That is a flash answer, for more detail do a search on gamma within this topic, and other established topics like 'KDF60XS955' etc.

Love the picture on this set other than red seems too pronounced.
Considering getting into service menu for the first time and am wondering if it is a difficult procedure to find AXIS to relieve the red push?
I have browsed through this topic and believe it may be pretty simple but just need some confirmation and/or tips for getting to the right menu catagory.
Don't plan on venturing to far in but i think adjusting red push will help alot.
thanks
Kevin

I have had the KDF50WE655 for about 2 weeks now. Have been reading up on this message board..a lot of great information, thanks guys!

I wanted to ask if you guys could post the settings you have had the best results with. I have for now used the settings from one of the earlier posts from 11/04 on this thread, but was wondering if people have made progress since then, and may have more updated better settings. I am using a scientific atlanta HD cable box. I am not sure exactly how it sends regular TV (digital cable).

I also am using a Sony progressive scan DVD player.

Thanks in advance for posting the settings!

question....

i've been in the service menu before, but last night i went back to make some adjustments. now i can't find any of the categories mentioned in this thread (dcp-adj/mid-5, etc). anyone have any idea what i'm doing wrong?

question....

i've been in the service menu before, but last night i went back to make some adjustments. now i can't find any of the categories mentioned in this thread (dcp-adj/mid-5, etc). anyone have any idea what i'm doing wrong?

Not sure which set your are using, but on the GWIV models you have to hit the "jump" button twice after entering the SM to access the settings you are referring to. Once you have hit the "jump" button twice then use the "2" and "5" key to find the correct category and the "1" and "4" buttons to move to the settings with the catergories. "3" and "6" buttons changes the settings and "mute" followed by enter save the changes to memory.

I know you probably already know this "RECORD ORIGINAL SETTINGS" before changing them, you can really screw things up if you make a mistake and don't have the original settings (varies from set to set) to go back to.

Good luck,

Half

Not sure which set your are using, but on the GWIV models you have to hit the "jump" button twice after entering the SM to access the settings you are referring to. Once you have hit the "jump" button twice then use the "2" and "5" key to find the correct category and the "1" and "4" buttons to move to the settings with the catergories. "3" and "6" buttons changes the settings and "mute" followed by enter save the changes to memory.

I know you probably already know this "RECORD ORIGINAL SETTINGS" before changing them, you can really screw things up if you make a mistake and don't have the original settings (varies from set to set) to go back to.

Good luck,

Half

thanks so much! that's exactly what i forgot! i was cycling through some strange categories. i stay away from that 3 or 6 button unless i'm really really sure!

I'm only on page 12, so forgive me if this has been asked before, but...

(1) are people calibrating in SM with power reduction on or off? I've been viewing my set (un-calibrated yet (besides User Menu tweaks)) with power reduction on. I find it helps with black especially when night-viewing. However, should I take it off for calibration even if I plan to use it when viewing?

(2) Are SM changes applied across the input (Video 1, Video 2...) over all input signals or, for instance if you set the SM on 1080i and look at it again on the same input but with a 480i signal, will the same SM values still be in place or do you have to change the values while the new signal is being received?

(3) Are the red push/grayscale tweaks done in concert with the Axis change or is this an either or? I.e., do the axis change if you don't want to mess with the grayscale adjustments.

Tweaked last night by trying UMR's GW3 suggestions (except for grayscale adjustment).

............HDMI(1080i)...HDMI(480i)...Comp(480p)...Comp(480 i)
SHFO...15->15...........15->15..........15->15...........15->15
MVLS...0.....................1->0..............1->0...............1->0
MHLC...2->1...............3->1..............2->1...............3->1

Axis on all set from 2 to 0 and changed the temperature to warm. Went through THX and INHD Tuner to set User preferences. INHD doesn't have sharpness instructions so I set it to what I found on THX to be reasonable to my eyes (25).

I found that 480i digital had improved markedly. On my Panasonic CP67 the text on the THX instruction menu was much crisper in 480i than in progressive after the tweak. I haven't done a moving picture comparison yet on this.

I haven't done a grayscale adjustment yet. My initial values in HDMI are all drivers 140 and all cuts 255. Just seeing this says it's not optimal, but I want to at least get my AVIA in before I start messing with this.

I noticed that fretbored03 changed MVLC, MHFM and MVFM in addition to the changes I made above. Are these changes beneficial? What are they?

Good to see someone reporting the tweaks on this thread...& reporting the outcome. Note....on some of out sets the MID 5 does not change when in the service menu. So go into the mid 5' at all the timmings you noted & see that all changes in place. other words , If you enter at 1080 I some parts of the service menu changes when you go to 480 P , but MID 5 does not. So to not go into how to change MID 5 It is easyer to do 1080 I go to mid 5 come out & go to 480 P go to MID 5 & set it.

I found a thread on another board here (http://www.hometheaterspot.com/htsthreads/showflat.php?Number=645077&page=), which may be applicable. It's a tune of a GW3.


MHFM. This option changes the horrizontal filtering greatly. Watch the lines running up and down the screen. You want the setting that is the least blurry, but has no ringing or halos. On my tv. this was 2.

MVFM. This option changes the vertical filtering greatly. Watch the lines running across the screen. You want the setting that is the least blurry, but has no ringing or halos. On my tv, this was 2.

MVLS. This option changes the vertical filtering. Setting it to zero causes a thick white halo under the lines running across the screen. Choose the number that has no halos.

MHLC. This option changes the horrizontal filtering. Watch the frequency sweep across the top and the sharp patch to the bottom right of the test pattern. You want to select the number that results in being able to distinctly see each line in the lower right frequncy patch. On my tv, this was 3.

MVLC. This option changes the vertical filtering. You will want to watch the frequency sweep along the left hand side of the screen. You want to select the number that allows you to see the individual lines at the bottom. On my tv, this was 6.

He's using AVIA for the test (i think).

Regarding the "Gamma Correcter" in the User Menu.

Does this affect grayscale? In other words, by changing the gamma setting do I get closer to, or further away from the 6500K standard? Or does this setting not affect grayscale and color temp at all?

Thanks!

Finally got Avia in yesterday and went through some USER and SM tweaks for 480p. Mild off, color temp warm, picture max, brightness 30, color 36, sharpness 15 (I don't think I've got a good eye for sharpness yet, but 0 is too soft.

SM changes: I set umr's grayscale changes while looking at a good gray field and certainly saw improvement as the field went from light bluish gray to gray. MVLS - I went back to 1 from umr's 0 because the resolution pattern was too enhanced. I don't know if this is because I set sharpness first or not. Also MHLC was left at the default 2. MVLC, I changed from 2 to 1 and saw improved resolution.

Picture - I used the Avia needle pulses and maxed out my picture. Even maxed both moving white bars were visible. Do I need to increase picture in SM above USER? How do I do that? I looked at color with the supplied filters and I didn't see a big red push (maybe +10%) and minus 5-10% green with a close 0% blue. I'm not going to mess with Hue.

I flashed through the THX optimizer on the Incredibles and everything looked in order. PQ on the Incredibles was ... well you know. I've got the gloss back in the costumes that I enjoyed in Vivid, but have more realistic wall tones and flesh tones and not thick black-enhanced details in the background.

I turned power saving to standard for calibration. I don't know what my feelings are for reduced yet.

I plan to tweak 480p a little more and when I have a good handle on it, 480i. Use those values for my HD converter for 480i through component and use umr and INHD test patterns for HD. I'll try Avia for the Oppo I'm getting at the end of the month through HDMI, but start with umr's HD settings as a base. I've weighed the good and the bad for the upscaling F-chip and my display and decided to go for it.

Update. 480p seems blurry to me in Pro. Clearer when I switch to Vivid or Standard. I don't know why 480p is such a goddamned mystery on these sets, but I'm open to info on the subject.

Don't know if anyone still checks this thread, but yesterday I started with umr's grayscale and played the AVIA sharpness panel and followed these instructions (http://www.hometheaterspot.com/htsthreads/showflat.php?Number=645077&page=) for the GW3 to set resolution.

Per those instructions, I set Sharpness to 1/3 (21). My DVD player is a Panasonic DVD CP-67; this becomes important later.

I changed the POP setting to a point that all the lines were the same brightness (52->48). I then checked the MIDE to make sure it was the same value, then I wrote it to memory. I used the sharpness pattern according to the instructions to set MHFM (3->2), MVFM (3->2), MVLS (0), MHLC (2->4) (orginal poaster had a value of 3 for this and it was really blurry for me, so use a sharpness pattern, don't just impliment these), MVLC (2).

I did basic adjustments afterward. Picture (max), Contrast (30), Color (36), Sharpness (20), Color Warm.

PQ was crystal. Watched the Incredibles - no blurriness, better resolution than Vivid and Standard. Watched the first few episodes of The Muppet Show (Season 1) and it was spot on perfect to my eyes. Put in Sin City and the first few seconds were magnificent, but then... H07.

My DVD Player died last night after I had perfectly tweaked resolution on 480p. Last night I placed an order for an Oppo. Ironically, I probably won't be using my 480p tweaks since, from what I've read, the best out of an Oppo is at 720p (for my display).

They don't build 'em like they used to.

Does having an ISF person calibrate the set void the warranty if he or she goes into the service menu?

Depending on the wording in your specific factory warranty, it is possible. But I think unless a failure of your electronics can be directly attributable to an 'adjustment' in your service menu, you have little to worry about.
Furthermore, in the case of microdisplays in particular, most repairs it seems involve replacing modular assemblies and not doing critical adjustments.

How are people tweaking their 720p/1080i SM resolutions without a HD signal generator? I've got INHD's setup recorded on my DVR, but they don't have a sharpness test pattern, only convergance. Any way around this?

For those that have a WE655 and a cable card, what are your settings? I've been toying with the settings during Football in HD. Any suggestions?

does anyone know how to adjust picture tilt, on my 55xs955 the picture is slightly tilted barely seeable but since I know it there it bugs me.

Steve my picture has slight tilt in it as well, so if you find out anymore info or a service menu item that corrects this please let me know.

THanks.
Carmine

my 480P looks terrible over component. I dont know if its my new dvd player, sony ns70, or my settings.

Hello,

I know this is an old thread but I have a couple of questions and I was hoping someone could help me out. First my TV is the Sony KDF-50WE655. I have read this thread in regards to the setting to give me a nice looking pic. My question is I have a Panasonic S97 DVD player that up converts to 1080i. What should I be setting my input resolution at coming to my TV and also what about the out going resolution. What does PAL stand for?

Thanks Rick

PAL stands for "You live in the UK, right?" :)

PAL, like our NTSC, is a video standard. Generally it's considered a "better" standard than NTSC. It's what the UK and a lot of other places that aren't North America use. I believe it's 24 frames a second instead of 29.97... and something to do with fields that I've never really understood. In any case, they are generally incompatible unless your TV or DVD player or, in the old days, VCR, can convert from one standard to the other.

If your DVD player supports PAL, that would mean that your player can play discs meant for the UK and elsewhere that supports the PAL standard, assuming they are region-free or your player, ahem, no longer concerns itself with region codes.

You can find a way more technical explanation here: http://www.dvddemystified.com/dvdfaq.html#1.19

No I don't live in the UK. I live in Green Bay, WI

Set your upconverting DVD player to 720 - that's the native resolution of the Sony. If you set it to 1080, the Sony will actually downconvert it.

I just spent the last 2 hours tweaking the service menu of my KDF-50WE655 per UMR's instructions. I have had the tv for 1.4 years without really needing much adjustment. DVE dvd went along way to correct some problems - through my own trial and error came up with pretty much the same user corrections for the brightness, contrast, ect.. I did have a problem with overscan and thanks to UMR's intrsuctions - I got the tv centered for the DVD player. Interestingly I have a HDtivo into component 6, dvd to component 5 input - and the overscan/centering is not the same on each. I sort of averaged the 2. Thanks to all on this site, esp UMR with the intructions... I was terrified of the service menu at first. Now no longer. :D

As for the previous post:
Set your upconverting DVD player to 720 - that's the native resolution of the Sony. If you set it to 1080, the Sony will actually downconvert it.
I have found that with my zenith dvb-318 upscaling dvd player that it is a sharper/better image set on the 1080i. We owners of the WE655 series find our vertical resolution to be in 768 camp not the true 720 of later models. Thus outputing at 720p means the TV will still needs to upscale a little to reach 768 vertical resolution. I find that the picture quality is slightly better when I output a 1080i signal and let the TV downscale. Even OTA signals from NBC/CBS look are much sharper in 1080i downscaled, than the 720p signals of Fox, ABC upscaled.

In short when there is a question of which resolution to output to the TV let your eyes do the talking. :)

In short when there is a question of which resolution to output to the TV let your eyes do the talking. :)

In support of all that, I also find my sat. receiver works out much better at 1080i setting. But my upconverting DVD player (Oppo) seems somewhat better at 720p.
It is not a big difference though. The difference in quality of the deinterlacers between components is also a factor.
Fortunately, this gen of Sonys tune out rather nice, having done quite a few SM adjustments myself. I do find as the lamp ages it pays to do more touch-ups. But in general, just adjustments to the user menu with Avia, etc. are sufficient.

Fortunately, this gen of Sonys tune out rather nice, having done quite a few SM adjustments myself. I do find as the lamp ages it pays to do more touch-ups. But in general, just adjustments to the user menu with Avia, etc. are sufficient.
I have had my TV for almost a year and a half and I never even thought I could get up the gumption to enter the service menu. Heck I didn't know what the service menu was 72hrs ago. ;) It was easy...too easy to tweak the tv. After about 5 hours of reading, 2.5 hours of playing with HDnets test patterns, DVE on the dvd player and utilizing the service menu...I am complete. The HD is so crisp, absolutely georgeous. That was the most fun I have had that I don't ever want to repeat. Never mind my wife is happy that I didn't pay someone to do the adjustments. :cool:

Videoaddikt: Any tips on what to watch for as the lamp ages?

I have had my TV for almost a year and a half and I never even thought I could get up the gumption to enter the service menu. Heck I didn't know what the service menu was 72hrs ago. ;) It was easy...too easy to tweak the tv. After about 5 hours of reading, 2.5 hours of playing with HDnets test patterns, DVE on the dvd player and utilizing the service menu...I am complete. The HD is so crisp, absolutely georgeous. That was the most fun I have had that I don't ever want to repeat. Never mind my wife is happy that I didn't pay someone to do the adjustments. :cool:

Videoaddikt: Any tips on what to watch for as the lamp ages?

It very gradual but basically just brightness falling off. So just do a go-over with Avia, etc. to get things in balance again.

videoaddikt,

I've been doing more reading in the tweaking of these particular sets. Have you ever found the need to place the neutral density filter in the we655 series. I am happy with the black level but I haven't had anything really to compare it to. If so how dificult was it to do and how are the results? I will say this - tweaking is addictive once you know what you are doing. I read the UMR does the GW II but that was the series II sets. Thanks in advance.

I forgot to mention I am using the ND filter. It will sacrifice the whitest whites somewhat, but the overall improvement in dark detail and contrast is worth it to me.
As the bulb ages, it will also probably have a tendency to make the picture look darker overall a bit more than it normally would. Whatever is normal.. ?

I forgot to mention I am using the ND filter. It will sacrifice the whitest whites somewhat, but the overall improvement in dark detail and contrast is worth it to me.
how hard was it to do? - can you kind of give a step by step sort of like UMR for the GW II. Entering the service menu is one thing - opening the TV is another ballgame entirely. Thanks

well there are different approaches. For the XS model, you need to remove the rear chassis assembly. It is not as daunting as it sounds if you are technically inclined. It does mean having the service manual and following a procedure.
For other models, that don't have the 'speaker ring' it's actually possible to unscrew all around the rear of the screen, and open it from the top. Just enough to drop the filter in over the lens.
Sounds weird, I know. And you can still do the rear assembly method on any model.
here is a link on the subject, took me 10 minutes to find that..there are more including pictures:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5872530&highlight=ND+filter#post5872530

As far as 'tweaks'...most took the earlier baseline set by umr for the GWII and III ( I believe) and used it for the GWIV, filling in the differences. It's all buried in those threads including xcel charts.

O.K., so I'm hoping someone here might be able to shed some light/help. I'm a bit confused and worried about the ramifications of the odd-pixel count LCD panels in my Sony KDF-55XS955 set. I've been quite happy w/ the PQ for the year or so I've owned it (all save the black levels, inherent weakness to this gen's technology). I sprung for a DVDO VP30 video processor a couple of months back, hoping to make the most of my obscenely large DVD collection on the HD screen. Likewise, I jumped on an offer to add their new ABT120 deinterlacing card to the scaler/processor at a good intro price.

Here's the rub. I installed the card this weekend and I'm in a muck. The new card 'may' be doing what it's supposed to but I can't tell, where it should be deinterlacing SD content and smoothing out any aliasing/jaggies, I see big jaggies. Folks on the VP30 forum suggest it may be the oddities of the Sony set's panels and its internal scaling that are screwing up the pristine input my VP30 is providing.

I know from elsewhere it seems 1:1 pixel mapping is impossible w/ these sets. Anyone who's wrapped their head around this issue and come up w/ a solution or set of workarounds, I'm all ears. If a trained ISF calibrator can dig in and make a difference here, I may be willing to throw some good money after potentially bad. I'm afraid I may have invested in image processing hardware whose benefits the HD set is then uncontrollably nullifying. HELP!

shanewalker - great question as I'm thinking about a VP30 as well but fear the problem may be inherent to the Sony itself.

By any chance have you noticed much of an improvement in your cable picture following inclusion of the DVDO unit in your set-up?

I had considered a Lumagen processor/switcher. For the simple reason it will output 768p.
But the Sony will only work at 720p.
This is a function of the circuitry, it is 'wired up' that way, so to speak.
And I have reservations any significant improvement would be seen even if it could process 768. Especially considering most older gens displays, like the Sony, do not even fully exploit a 720p signal I don't see an external processor as an advantage, except for improving the output capability of the source.

http://hometheatermag.com/hookmeup/0506halfrez/

Given all that, if I really wanted a significant improvement today, I would go for updated display technology, like LCoS and others.

A small follow-up on the 'big jaggies' I was seeing after the installation of my ABT120 card in the VP30 and viewing of their demo disc materials:

Seems the main culprit was the inherent limitations of processing field-based image pauses from the DVD players. Each of the units I was using to view the demo disc has a selectable frame mode for pauses, which, when activated, changed the output dramatically. The DVDO/120 was only getting a field of info to play with otherwise...so, needless to say, I saw big jaggies on pauses until I set the players to pause in full frame mode (it made havok on other test imagery, but the race track footage looked quite smooth afterwards, and running footage looked pretty good).

So, while the lack of real 1:1 pixel mapping is indeed degrading the image processing's effectiveness, it wasn't doing the rampant destruction I was fearing.

Overall, I've noticed a marked improvement in SD sources (like DVD and laserdisc), and the scaling capabilities are top notch. The Sony 995 juke's HDMI output and internal scaling was good, but this is better I think. I've not really evaluated its affect on SD cable (I have sattelite and don't have my E* DVR/reciever wired for HD and SD output seperately [I use the SD outs to feed my DVD recorder], so it all goes out pre-scaled to 1080i/720p). Plus, I wanted a good HDMI switcher and this does that to boot. I'm quite happy w/ my decision to get the DVDO VP30--I'm now just chomping to get a next-gen 1080p display w/ deep full blacks and 1:1 pixel mapping (but that'll have to wait a while)...

I have had my KDF55WF655 for approx. 1 1/2 years and lately when watch DVD's (over a Denon 3910 via HDMI) occasionally the TV's display (info banner with "Video 7" and "Wide Mode - Full") will come on out of nowhere. Has anyone had this happen? Any thoughts as to what could cause it? Is there any possibility that my programmed remote could be too sensitive and is inadvertently sending the TV a signal?

It's just weird that it started happening out of the blue when I've never had any problems with the TV.

Any info appreciated, thanks.

Zyoung: It Happens.

Early builds of this TV had it happen quite regularly, but later firmware updates seemed to fix it. My set does it about once every 60 days - not bad, and I can live with it. This is NOT caused by your remote control.

zyoung,
I've had a 50" version for about a year and a half. Does the same thing occasionally, out of nowwhere. Probably poltergeist. Not a big deal.
Joe

later firmware updates seemed to fix it.

Are you saying there is some kind of firmware to fix it? or that Sony fixed it on a later build.

While you may be content to live with it, I would rather not. I just wish this would have started happening while the damn thing was under warranty :mad:

Thanks for the info though, nice to know others feel my pain.

Sony can have your local service person come to your home and install the latest firmware. It comes on a Sony Memory Stick. It is possible that they might be talked into sending you the memory stick for you to install yourself (you just pop it into the slot in the front lower right corner and turn on the set - the rest is automatic.)

Of course, that might do nothing to fix the problem, and could possibly come with its own set of problems!

I'll look into that, thx rmullin.

hey guys. i know this was mentioned quite some time ago, but just thought i'd bring it back up to date. as far as the list of adjustable data in the service menu, it is not included when you purchase the service manual (i was pissed after i ordered just for that reason!) & although some members have reported that Sony will send this .pdf of all adjustable service data to anyone who requests it, that is not true. i requested a copy of it & Sony replied - "this information is only available to qualified service technicians". anyone who might have this list, i would really love to grab a copy of it for my own personal records.

Thanks guys!
Carmine.

Ditto !

I read this forum regularly but seldom post. However, after owning my 60WF655 for 2 years now and my NS975V DVD player for almost the same time I FINALLY took the time and minimal effort to tweak my set following UMR's GWIII settings. WOW, what a difference! Much better contrast, clarity, and color. I thought I had a pretty dynamite picture before so I was in no rush to make service menu adjustments. Now I wish I had done it sooner. BTW, I play my DVD's at 480i through component with the NS975V. As Paul Bigelow pointed out in his review of this player some time ago it suffers from green depression when upscaling and since 480i looks spectacular with accurate colors I stuck with that. Also, of course, my WF has only one HDMI input and I quickly grew tired of switching the HDMI cable between the player and my HI-DEF satellite box. Funny thing is I am currently waiting for the new OPPO 981HD to land on my doorstep and it will certainly be hard pressed to improve upon the picture I am now seeing. I realize the OPPO specializes in 1080p output and mine is not a 1080p set but I am mainly interested in it's ability to be region free and also it's supposed great PAL conversion abilities. DVD-A ability will be nice as well. Anyway, for someone who doesnt post often, this turned into a long one. Take it from me, try those UMR settings--they made a definate difference to an already great picture. BTW, I am also waiting for an HDMI switcher to arrive as well. No more cable swapping. At least it should tide me over until I can afford one of those nice new Pioneer Elite HDMI amps.

I just spent the last 2 hours tweaking the service menu of my KDF-50WE655 per UMR's instructions. I have had the tv for 1.4 years without really needing much adjustment.
Dogdoctor,
I have the same set as you. About 3 months ago I noticed a "flicker" in the brightness while viewing my 360 dashboard. I thought it was the 360 at first, but I started noticing it on all my inputs. Have you experienced this? I called Sony this Friday, the rep had me unplugg the TV from my surge protecter. The problem was gone for the 2 or 3 minutes I had the rep on the phone, but it was back later that night. Is this a symptom of the bulb about to fail
? I love my TV but the flickering brightness can be very annoying! Anyone else experiencing this please feel free to comment!

Dogdoctor,
I have the same set as you. About 3 months ago I noticed a "flicker" in the brightness while viewing my 360 dashboard. I thought it was the 360 at first, but I started noticing it on all my inputs. Have you experienced this? I called Sony this Friday, the rep had me unplugg the TV from my surge protecter. The problem was gone for the 2 or 3 minutes I had the rep on the phone, but it was back later that night. Is this a symptom of the bulb about to fail
? I love my TV but the flickering brightness can be very annoying! Anyone else experiencing this please feel free to comment!
I haven't seen this and I just hooked up a PS3 to my tv 2 weeks ago. I know a weaking bulb can cause a variety of symptoms - have you checked how may hours you have on the bulb? I'm sure it is annoying but I really don't know the cause. I would first check the connections on the tv/360 - inputs and then I would try a bulb change if you are upwards of 5-7000 hours. Keep me posted and I will keep an eye out for the symptons on my tv.

I haven't seen this and I just hooked up a PS3 to my tv 2 weeks ago. I know a weaking bulb can cause a variety of symptoms - have you checked how may hours you have on the bulb? I'm sure it is annoying but I really don't know the cause. I would first check the connections on the tv/360 - inputs and then I would try a bulb change if you are upwards of 5-7000 hours. Keep me posted and I will keep an eye out for the symptons on my tv.
How do you check the bulb hours on this set? It was a display TV when I bought it.

How do you check the bulb hours on this set? It was a display TV when I bought it.
start here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8045683&&#post8045683) for the how to check the lamp timer. If you read a few posts before and some after you will see I had 3192 hours on my lamp in 7/06 and someone posted a month or two ago with over 7000 hours on the bulb.

When we are at the subject, anybody knows how to reset those counts?

When we are at the subject, anybody knows how to reset those counts?Same thread different post by me: link (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8494955&&#post8494955)

start here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8045683&&#post8045683) for the how to check the lamp timer. If you read a few posts before and some after you will see I had 3192 hours on my lamp in 7/06 and someone posted a month or two ago with over 7000 hours on the bulb.
Well I checked my bulb hours and it read "LampTM 6251 LampCT 1183" So that's 6,251 hours. :eek: I guess I need to take advange of my warranty and get a new bulb? Well I hope this is the issue and not something way, way serious with other piece of the TV's hardware. Well I'm going to try and get my replacement bulb.

Hello all, I've been looking through this thread for awhile and now I've just realized that I've been changing the SHOF setting to 15 instead of the SHFO setting. I went back and set my SHFO to 15, but I never changed SHOF back to the default. The picture looked good and I haven't experienced any problems, but I'm a little concerned because I don't know what SHOF does. Is it ok at 15 or do I need to set this back to the default? If so, does anyone have the default setting for pro, standard, and vivid? Any help is appreciated.

BTW- post #3 on page 1 still says SHOF - 15 instead of SHFO.

Im new here and have read about 400 threads and can't seem to get the answer to this simple (hopefully) issue. I have a bad case (way more that 5%) of overscan on a Sony KDF-55xs955 and it got worse. I have never changed anything in the Service Menu but I can get in and understand how to do it and save it. All thats hooked up is a HD cable box to input #7 (screen display says that) using a HDMI cable.

What is that input called in the SM, and what is the codes (horo and vert) called that need to be changed. I found one that moves the picture up and down but I can't find the one that "shrinks" it.

Any thoughts? BTW the overscan setting in the regular menu is set to -1 and it helps a little.

Read the very beginning of the thread called UMR Does GWIII XBR & WE (Updated to include WE) (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=331875)

But towards the bottom of the first post you can find this:

MID1 (Category) BE CAREFUL WITH THESE THEY CAN RENDER YOUR SET USELESS

DHPH (Horizontal position)
DVPH (Veticle position)
MDHS (Horizontal size)
MDVS (Vertical size)

I used the THX Optimizer to adjust my settings. Ended up with the picture (contrast) maxed, brightness at 24, color saturation at 40, sharpness at 30. At first I was concerned about the contrast setting, but it looks the best and I used the test screen properly so I decided to just enjoy it and stop thinking about it. I'm using "standard" mode on a 42WE655. I applied the same settings to all my inputs...dvd via component, Moto 6200 via component, and OTA DTV via internal tuner. I'd really like to try a ND filter to improve the blacks but don't feel like pulling the set apart to experiment right now. Initially I thought the picture (on all sources) should be a little more crisp as it appeared a bit soft in general. I've since gotten used to it I guess. It might be similar to the HD2+ vs HD3 DLP chips where one produces a softer "smoother" picture and the other a more crisp (some say "enhanced") picture.

Question regarding"OTA DTV via internal tuner". Where did u connect the antenna? I hv a 50we655 and there is no dedicated HD input for antenna like my Mits has. Does it just plug into the UHV/VHF input? Tnx.. :)

Question regarding"OTA DTV via internal tuner". Where did u connect the antenna? I hv a 50we655 and there is no dedicated HD input for antenna like my Mits has. Does it just plug into the UHV/VHF input? Tnx.. :)
Yes, just plug the antenna into the ant input on the back of the TV and then in the menu system, scan for digital channel signals. You should be good to go.

Sorry for the newby question, but I am a little confussed. I have a KDF55-WF655, which of the GW threads (ie GWII, GWIII, GWIV) apply to my TV? Are these different version of Grand Wega that match up with certain models? If this is the case, I cannot find anything that tells me which version of Grand Wega my KDF55-WF655 is.

Thanks for the help.

Sorry for the newby question, but I am a little confussed. I have a KDF55-WF655, which of the GW threads (ie GWII, GWIII, GWIV) apply to my TV? Are these different version of Grand Wega that match up with certain models? If this is the case, I cannot find anything that tells me which version of Grand Wega my KDF55-WF655 is.

Thanks for the help.
You should be a GWIV - your in the year of 42WE655, 50WE655 (me), 55WF655, 60WF655. If I'm wrong someone will correct me.

You should be a GWIV - your in the year of 42WE655, 50WE655 (me), 55WF655, 60WF655. If I'm wrong someone will correct me.
Thanks.

I haven't seen this and I just hooked up a PS3 to my tv 2 weeks ago. I know a weaking bulb can cause a variety of symptoms - have you checked how may hours you have on the bulb? I'm sure it is annoying but I really don't know the cause. I would first check the connections on the tv/360 - inputs and then I would try a bulb change if you are upwards of 5-7000 hours. Keep me posted and I will keep an eye out for the symptons on my tv.
It was the bulb causing the flicker. I just had my bulb changed, I had over 7000hrs when it was changed.

I just spent the last 2 hours tweaking the service menu of my KDF-50WE655 per UMR's instructions. I have had the tv for 1.4 years without really needing much adjustment. DVE dvd went along way to correct some problems - through my own trial and error came up with pretty much the same user corrections for the brightness, contrast, ect.. I did have a problem with overscan and thanks to UMR's intrsuctions - I got the tv centered for the DVD player. Interestingly I have a HDtivo into component 6, dvd to component 5 input - and the overscan/centering is not the same on each. I sort of averaged the 2. Thanks to all on this site, esp UMR with the intructions... I was terrified of the service menu at first. Now no longer. :D

Do you have anything in your HDMI input? Does this input need tweaking, or is tweaking possible? I'm trying to build up the courage to go into my service menu and do some tweaking too! I have and HD-DVD player in my VIDEO 7 (HDMI), DishHD box in VIDEO 5(component), XBOX 360 in VIDEO 6(component), and OTA HD from the antenna. I notice that the PRO setting is noticeably softer than VIVID or STANDARD. Why is this?

Do you have anything in your HDMI input? Does this input need tweaking, or is tweaking possible? I'm trying to build up the courage to go into my service menu and do some tweaking too! I have and HD-DVD player in my VIDEO 7 (HDMI), DishHD box in VIDEO 5(component), XBOX 360 in VIDEO 6(component), and OTA HD from the antenna. I notice that the PRO setting is noticeably softer than VIVID or STANDARD. Why is this?
Ok...your asking a lot. I'll try to help out as much as I can.

1) yes I have a PS3 hooked into the HDMI
2) yes this input needs tweaking but here is a major subpoint:
- if I remember correctly - you not only need to tweak each input, but you need to correct the TV at each res setting 480i,480p,720p,1080i for that input. Thus for me HDMI - tweaked 720p ad 1080i settings (I will never use 480i, 480p). Again I started with the extrapolation from the HDtivo, Upscale DVD - both component levels and went from there using a Sony BR Disc with callibration screens and DVE color filters.
3) Pro setting is softer because it has decreased sharpness levels,brightness and a more natural color adjustment from the get go (requires less service menu changes) Once you venture into the menu - you can make pro look fabulous. But again it is all in personal taste.

You need to know that you can enter the menu and not change a thing. You just need to make sure to not press a button on the remote that you don't want to. Try just checking your lamp time first to get a feel of the menu link (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8045683&highlight=lamp+timer#post8045683). It's easy if you just follow my directions.

Thanks. I've been in to check my hours. I reset my hours after getting a new bulb too. So I'l give it a shot, soon.

O.K. I used the HDNET test pattern show, used the resolution test pattern. According to it from my cable box into my component 5 input my overscan is 3 on top, 4 on bottom, 8 on left and 10 on right. Does this mean I have to adjust the pictures position and overscan settings?

I don't think HDNET pattern is a good indication of over scan. I heard they are wrong

I don't think HDNET pattern is a good indication of over scan. I heard they are wrong
But if these numbers are in fact correct, do I need to fix position and overscan? Since the numbers aren't the same on the left as it is on the right?

I would recommend you check the HDNet centering/overscan setting with a second pattern on a different piece of equipment (they might not be the same). I compromised my setting with DVE on the DVD player and the overscan pattern on HDNet. I don't think you can adjust the overscan on this TV except in the user menu of +1/0/-1 but you should definately center the screen. I could't get both units perfectly centered due to the fact that the centering of the screen is a universal change - not specific to the input. I decided to get the TV closer since in my case vertical positioning was fine but the horizontal postioning was going to be off for one or the other and I figured I would notice uneven bars on the side of the ESPNHD more than I could realistically tell a dvd was slightly shifted. You'll have to check for yourself though.

I know this is a tweak thread, but can anyone comment on this issue?
Go here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10441337&&#post10441337

Does the KDF50WE655 accept 1080p via the HDMI?

Does the KDF50WE655 accept 1080p via the HDMI?
I can't get it to do so with the PS3. I didn't figure it would, but I thought I would try anyhow. 1080i BR still looks spectacular on this set.

I can't get it to do so with the PS3. I didn't figure it would, but I thought I would try anyhow. 1080i BR still looks spectacular on this set.
It looks great via 1080i. At the moment I didn't have a 1080p capable player. Now I have the Samsung BDP-1000 and I tried 1080p, but it doesn't work. No problem.

I have a 60xs model and want to use it as my computer display. Has anyone done this successfully? I got it to display using my at hd2600 pro card under vista 32 bit but the display isn't very sharp which leads me to believe it is scaling wrong. Anyone happen to have some powerstrip timings or other service menu tweak info?