I have not been able to find a good tweaks thread for the GWIVs so I'll give it a shot as I am getting tired of searching through the GWIV Owner thread.

I just received my 55WF655 a few days ago and I am very pleased with it so far. I ran the AVIA disk through my PS2 using s-video and my DVD player using component. I am running pro mode with power saving on. After running through AVIA I do not have too many significant changes from the pro mode defaults, just reduced sharpness down to 18.

Has anyone performed the UMR tweaks for GWIII and/or GWII? If so, have the results been favorable? Are there changes that should be made to UMR's settings?

What non-service-mode settings are you people finding to provide the best results for your inputs?

I'd like to get some feedback before I venture into the service menu :o)
Thank you!!

I used the THX Optimizer to adjust my settings. Ended up with the picture (contrast) maxed, brightness at 24, color saturation at 40, sharpness at 30. At first I was concerned about the contrast setting, but it looks the best and I used the test screen properly so I decided to just enjoy it and stop thinking about it. I'm using "standard" mode on a 42WE655. I applied the same settings to all my inputs...dvd via component, Moto 6200 via component, and OTA DTV via internal tuner. I'd really like to try a ND filter to improve the blacks but don't feel like pulling the set apart to experiment right now. Initially I thought the picture (on all sources) should be a little more crisp as it appeared a bit soft in general. I've since gotten used to it I guess. It might be similar to the HD2+ vs HD3 DLP chips where one produces a softer "smoother" picture and the other a more crisp (some say "enhanced") picture.

Here are the current settings on my KDF-50WE655. I began with umr's GWIII tweaks because they seemed like a good place to start. They did make an impressive difference, and I have been able to tweak things a little more using the AVIA patterns.

I'm using Pro mode for all inputs.

Color Temp is neutral.

Noise Reduction is off.

Mild Mode is off.

Advanced Video is set to CineMotion for 480i sources (all other input formats don't give the option to change this).

USER MENU ADJUSTMENTS

Picture Max (63)
Brightness 37
Color 37
Tint 0
Sharpness Min (0)

I had originally set the above values slightly different than listed here. After I made the changes below I went back and re-tweaked these. I used the respective AVIA patterns to determine the best value.

Category DCP-ADJ1

RDRV 131*
GDRV 140*
BDRV 102*
RCUT 255*
GCUT 242*
BCUT 255*

*These values are directly from umr's GWIII tweaks. I doubt they are the optimal settings on the GWIV, but I don't have the equipment to do a proper gray scale calibration. In any case, they are still much better that the OOTB settings.

Category DCP-ADJ2

SHOF 15

Category MID-5

MVLC 1
MHLC 1
MVLS 0
MVFM 4
MHFM 4

The above values improved the resolution significantly. I used the AVIA sharpness test pattern to determine the best value for each.

Updates:

11/4/04 -
I had inadvertently swapped a couple of the values under the DCP-ADJ1 category. This has been fixed.


11/4/04 -
Just wanted to add that (so far) I've applied these settings to the following sources ONLY:

480i (DVD connected via component)
720p (OTA HDTV)
1080i (OTA HDTV)

These settings may or may not work for other source types. There is at least one report that they are not optimal for 480p sources. I'll test this when I can get a chance.

fretbored03....are those the only fields you changed in the service menu?

Originally posted by nixima
fretbored03....are those the only fields you changed in the service menu?

Those are the only ones. I haven't done adjustments for overscan yet, which may or may not change the values above. I'll post them if they do.

Thanks for posting this. I'm very interested in the tweaks as I'm strongly considering the 60XS955...

Originally posted by fretbored03


USER MENU ADJUSTMENTS

Picture Max (63)
Brightness 37
Color 37
Tint 0
Sharpness Min (0)


Why did you set the sharpness to 0?

From umr's GWII/GWIII thread:

"The user sharpness setting (USHP) is interactive with several other service menu values (SHF0, MVLS, MHLC). The set will appear too soft if you use a 0 value for USHP without changing the other service menu values to the values listed. You may also prefer more enhancement than a value 0 for USHP offers after all of the other values are changed."

I'm not 100% clear on what he is saying but the way I read it is that it helps in tweaking the service menu settings if you start out with the sharpness at 0. I'm guessing this setting also provided the correct output with the AVIA or THX sharpness pattern also.

New to tweaking the Sony KDF55WF.....is entering the service menu the same as the GWIII? If so I'm looking to center my picture on widescreen movies. It appears the top bars are a little smaller then the bottom. (Tried several different movies) I have also posted this on the GWIV owners thread and someone said it might be a service menu adjustment. The built in overscan +/- setting corrects it a bit but it needs just a few clicks more. Does anyone know or have tried to do this?

Thanks,

-R

Originally posted by wahoodude23
Why did you set the sharpness to 0?

I started with USHP at 0. (Force of habit from my days calibrating CRT displays I guess.) The changes to SHOF, MVLC, MHLC, MVLS, MVFM, and MHFM improved the resolution such that USHP could be left at 0.

Originally posted by robshdtv
New to tweaking the Sony KDF55WF.....is entering the service menu the same as the GWIII? If so I'm looking to center my picture on widescreen movies. It appears the top bars are a little smaller then the bottom. (Tried several different movies) I have also posted this on the GWIV owners thread and someone said it might be a service menu adjustment. The built in overscan +/- setting corrects it a bit but it needs just a few clicks more. Does anyone know or have tried to do this?

Thanks,

-R

Entering service mode is the same. The GWIV, however, requires you to press the Jump button on the remote twice to get to the service data.

Also, some items such as those accessible through the user menu (UPIC, UBRT, USHP, etc.) have a tendancy to "snap" back to their original values if you try to change them through the service menu. It wasn't really an issue, though, because they can be changed through the user menu.

I still havent had a chance to do overscan adjustments yet, but the service data items should be under the MID-1 category. (DHPH/DVPH for horizontal/vertical position and MDHS/MDVS for horizontal/vertical size.)

Be extra careful with items in the MID-1 category. (i.e., don't change something unless you know what it does.)

Actually, that advice goes for all categories, I guess. :p

Great to see this thread started! I am getting to the point where I want to dive into the service menu. I find pro mode to just be too soft.

fretbored03....I think you have a couple of the settings flip-flopped, GDRV and BDRV. They should be...

Category DCP-ADJ1

RDRV 131*
GDRV 140*
BDRV 102*
RCUT 255*
GCUT 242*
BCUT 255*

I just got a KDF-50WE655 two days ago and looking to tweak a couple settings, but I can't find any of the categories fretbored03 mentioned in the service mode. I have the categories TH3_FRB mentioned in another thread:

TELETEXT
MSP SIZE
MSPMO
MSPSEL
MSPFNC
MSP3714G
CCPS 1
CCPS 2
CCPS 3
CCPS 4
CCPS 5
CCPS 6
CCPS 7
CCPS 8
CCPS 10 (CORRECT..."CCPS 9" DOES NOT EXIST)
CCPS 11
DELAY 1
DELAY 2
OSD
CC M
CC S
CC T
ID
OPB GA
OP GA
OP VS
VERSION
CXA2209Q
AP
DLBY
BUSSW
CXA2103
CXA2163
2D COMB

what am i missing? Can I not do umr's tweaks?

thanks

Is this the correct key strokes to get in to the service menu on the GWIV?

To Enter Service Menu Press {Display - 5 - Vol+ - Power (While off)}


And is this the right catagory for adjusting the overscan on the 480i inputs? (taken from the GWIII tweaks thread)

MID2 is input specific for 480i inputs
RHPL - Adjusts Horizontal display Position for 480i
RHSL - Adjusts Horizontal display size for 480i
replace H with V for vertical

Thanks,

-R

I'm sorry... I realized you need to hit "jump" several times to get the appropriate categories.

Originally posted by nixima
fretbored03....I think you have a couple of the settings flip-flopped, GDRV and BDRV. They should be...

Category DCP-ADJ1

RDRV 131*
GDRV 140*
BDRV 102*
RCUT 255*
GCUT 242*
BCUT 255*

You are correct. I inadvertently swapped the numbers. I have corrected it in the original post.

Thanks!

Why do you have to take a risk doing the umr-style tweaks on GWIV models (change the tweaks in the service menu)? Do the AVIA, THX, or DVE do its job enough to satisify your needs???

Originally posted by gwood
Why do you have to take a risk doing the umr-style tweaks on GWIV models (change the tweaks in the service menu)? Do the AVIA, THX, or DVE do its job enough to satisify your needs???

There's only so much you can do without going into service mode. Some people are fine with it, some people are not.

If you want to try to squeeze the best picture possible out of your display, you will need to go into the service menu and take the associated risks. (Or pay someone else to do it for you.)

I made the changes from fretbored03's post #3 to all my inputs last night. Some observations...
o Navigating through the service menu was not as frightening as I imagined. I used umr's GWII/III instructions along with fretbored03's settings
o umr's GWII/III tweaks did not change all the values under MID-5 that fretbored03, so I assumed fretbored03's values were good
o Most of the default settings for the video3 input matched the tweaked settings in the service menu. This seemed strange to me.
o I had to change the user settings back to the pro mode defaults (with maxed out picture) on my video6 input (Sony progressive scan DVD via component cables). I ran Avia and the color and sharpness were way off using fretbored03's settings.
o fretbored03's user settings produced a great picture on my video1 input (PS2 via s-video). I didn't think the settings would be that differnt between my video6 and video1 inputs but they were.

So I guess the big conclusion is that these tweaked values do not produce a great picture in all instances. There is a great variation depending on the video input and DVD player.

Originally posted by nixima
I made the changes from fretbored03's post #3 to all my inputs last night. Some observations...
o Navigating through the service menu was not as frightening as I imagined. I used umr's GWII/III instructions along with fretbored03's settings
o umr's GWII/III tweaks did not change all the values under MID-5 that fretbored03, so I assumed fretbored03's values were good
o Most of the default settings for the video3 input matched the tweaked settings in the service menu. This seemed strange to me.
o I had to change the user settings back to the pro mode defaults (with maxed out picture) on my video6 input (Sony progressive scan DVD via component cables). I ran Avia and the color and sharpness were way off using fretbored03's settings.
o fretbored03's user settings produced a great picture on my video1 input (PS2 via s-video). I didn't think the settings would be that differnt between my video6 and video1 inputs but they were.

So I guess the big conclusion is that these tweaked values do not produce a great picture in all instances. There is a great variation depending on the video input and DVD player.

I had not tried the settings yet with my DVD player set to progressive. I have only used them with 480i, 720p, and 1080p. I'll see if I can try it tonight.

I have updated the original post to reflect this.

Originally posted by nixima
I made the changes from fretbored03's post #3 to all my inputs last night. Some observations...
o Navigating through the service menu was not as frightening as I imagined. I used umr's GWII/III instructions along with fretbored03's settings
o umr's GWII/III tweaks did not change all the values under MID-5 that fretbored03, so I assumed fretbored03's values were good
o Most of the default settings for the video3 input matched the tweaked settings in the service menu. This seemed strange to me.
o I had to change the user settings back to the pro mode defaults (with maxed out picture) on my video6 input (Sony progressive scan DVD via component cables). I ran Avia and the color and sharpness were way off using fretbored03's settings.
o fretbored03's user settings produced a great picture on my video1 input (PS2 via s-video). I didn't think the settings would be that differnt between my video6 and video1 inputs but they were.

So I guess the big conclusion is that these tweaked values do not produce a great picture in all instances. There is a great variation depending on the video input and DVD player.

Sorry for the newbie question: How do I access the service menu? I assume this is different from the setup menu on the TV?

I strongly recommend printing out the instructions from umr on this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=331875

Here is the navigation info from there:

To Enter Service Menu Press {Display - 5 - Vol+ - Power (While off)} If you do this quickly after you turn off the set the lamp will not shutdown. You have about 3 seconds to avoid a lamp restart.
To Save Settings Press {Mute - Enter}

To Navigate Service Menu

Up Item Press {1}
Down Item Press {4}
Up Category Press {2}
Down Category Press {5}
Increment Data Press {3}
Decrement Data Press {6}

I think I goofed a little last night as I was following some of the UMR's tweaks for the DCP-ADJ-2. I thought I was in the SHOF category and dropped the setting down to 15 as recommended I was in the field before that which is very similar something like SFOH or SFHO I don't recall exactly as I'm at work right now. In any event they are both now set at 15.

Does anyone know what the default setting should be? It does not appear to have had an impact on any of my HD component settings for my DVD player or HD Satellite box. However, my Dish SD PVR (S-video) settings now appear to have some severe black crush to them.

Would I be able to get the default settings if I connect the PVR to one of the other (s-video) inputs (1, 2, 3 or 4) which I did not make any changes to?

Thanks everyone!

Originally posted by Reyfam
I think I goofed a little last night as I was following some of the UMR's tweaks for the DCP-ADJ-2. I thought I was in the SHOF category and dropped the setting down to 15 as recommended I was in the field before that which is very similar something like SFOH or SFHO I don't recall exactly as I'm at work right now. In any event they are both now set at 15.

Does anyone know what the default setting should be? It does not appear to have had an impact on any of my HD component settings for my DVD player or HD Satellite box. However, my Dish SD PVR (S-video) settings now appear to have some severe black crush to them.

Would I be able to get the default settings if I connect the PVR to one of the other (s-video) inputs (1, 2, 3 or 4) which I did not make any changes to?

Thanks everyone!

I think someone posted the default settings in the GWIV Owner's thread....I'll try to look this up this weekend on my set...

Just got my 60in XS955. I'm experiencing a lip synch audio delay problem. I'm connected from the XS to my HT receiver with the TV speaker tunred off. Is thier a tweak in the service menu that can fix this problem?

I just did the tweaks that fretbored suggested on my Video 1 (SVideo) input. This is what my DirecTivo is hooked up to. Previously pro mode was just way too soft to watch on this input, now it's decent. Unfortunately I can't view any test patterns while makeing the tweaks, but it still came out ok. Pro does not have the pop of Vivid, but vivid now seems a bit over enhanced and blacks are too crushed. Previously I used standard mode which I still like, I may have to try out some tweaks on standard and see how that works out. Pro has better blacks than standard though.

It was not as scary as I thought it would be going into the service menu. I did setup a special device on my MX500 remote to navigate the menu. I put the category/item navigation on the directional pad, the item incr/decr on the channel +- buttons, and setup lcd buttons with the DISLP, 5, VOL+, input, and jump functions. I thought about making a macro to enter the service mode with, but that seemed like it might be dangerous...

Next up will be tweaking my DVD on HDMI...

Better chance it's the material then your set. Do you have the same lip synch problem with all cources...OTA, DVD, cable/sat?

Originally posted by mineral99
Just got my 60in XS955. I'm experiencing a lip synch audio delay problem. I'm connected from the XS to my HT receiver with the TV speaker tunred off. Is thier a tweak in the service menu that can fix this problem?

Can someone suggest optimal settings for those of us who are not brave enough to enter the service menu? Which mode, color temp, noise reduction, picture, brightness, color, hue, sharpness, mild mode, cinemotion, DRC, and power saving settings?

My inputs are HD cable with cablecard, 480i DVD (component input), and 480p Relpay PVR (component input) . My TV is the kdf-42we655.

I cannot get any service menu changes to save on a 55wf655. When I press "mute" to save I get the word "write" in green for a few seconds, but the value will snap back after a few seconds...sometimes after a minute or so. Has anyone else experienced this? I cannot adjust ANY settings from cuts and drvs to the mvls settings.

Sean

Originally posted by Sean_S
I cannot get any service menu changes to save on a 55wf655. When I press "mute" to save I get the word "write" in green for a few seconds, but the value will snap back after a few seconds...sometimes after a minute or so. Has anyone else experienced this? I cannot adjust ANY settings from cuts and drvs to the mvls settings.

Sean

You have to hit mute then the enter button to save the settings. You also need to be in pro mode for the service mode categories to be editable.

Originally posted by Reyfam
I think I goofed a little last night as I was following some of the UMR's tweaks for the DCP-ADJ-2. I thought I was in the SHOF category and dropped the setting down to 15 as recommended I was in the field before that which is very similar something like SFOH or SFHO I don't recall exactly as I'm at work right now. In any event they are both now set at 15.

Does anyone know what the default setting should be? It does not appear to have had an impact on any of my HD component settings for my DVD player or HD Satellite box. However, my Dish SD PVR (S-video) settings now appear to have some severe black crush to them.

Would I be able to get the default settings if I connect the PVR to one of the other (s-video) inputs (1, 2, 3 or 4) which I did not make any changes to?

Thanks everyone!

Last night, I went through the entire service menu and wrote down the settings for every item. Let me know if you still need the default values. BTW, I have a 60XS.

I tried to follow UMR's instructions but I couldn't find DCP-ADJ-2. I did find a few SHF0 but it was under a different category name. I don't have my papers with me so I couldn't tell you the category name.

Am I doing something wrong cause I can't find any of the categories such as DCP-ADJ-2?

Edit: Nevermind...I found the answer on the 1st page.

How do these settings interact with the "DRC Pallette"?

Originally posted by TLVictory
How do these settings interact with the "DRC Pallette"?

I dunno...but according to UMR's GWIII tweak, Set Reality and Clarity to 1. I played with those and hardly noticed the changes.

On a side note, I've been watching non-HD directv through a Tivo box and analog is pretty good when Detail enhancer is set to Medium.

Lap561,

what do you mean by "detail enhancer"? Are you referring to the video picture modes or something else? I'm trying to get SD to look better through my TiVo.

thanks

I looked at the WE/WF manual and I don't see Detail Enhancer for WE/WF models.

On the XS models: From the Video menu, go to Advanced video, which is the last item on the menu. You'll find Detail Enhancer there.

Thanks, Nixima. I misread the instructions. The mvls setting makes a HUGE difference on 480i/p sources. WOW.

Sean

Originally posted by nixima
You also need to be in pro mode for the service mode categories to be editable.

I was able to change values for Vivid and Standard mode. I did notice that some values like the drives and cuts are common to all modes. I was able to adjust UGAM and POP differently for each mode. I don't remember right now wether the MID5 category would hold different values for each mode.

Originally posted by Sean_S
Thanks, Nixima. I misread the instructions. The mvls setting makes a HUGE difference on 480i/p sources. WOW.

Sean

Shhh! Everyone will want one if these things if they actually saw what was being hidden by Sony.

umr: I noticed the POP item in the MID5 group seems to have a big effect on sharpness (or blurriness if you will). But it is not one of the things you tweak. Is there a downside to altering this value? I found I liked a value of 10 as opposed to the default 8. What's weird is it seemed that setting it to 9 made the image softer than either 8 or 10. Do you know exactly how the POP item works?

Originally posted by Sean_S
Thanks, Nixima. I misread the instructions. The mvls setting makes a HUGE difference on 480i/p sources. WOW.
Sean,

That much improvement for DVD playback? BTW, do you know if the mvls setting is also in the SM for the 55xs955 or has this become a user menu setting?

Originally posted by umr
Shhh! Everyone will want one if these things if they actually saw what was being hidden by Sony.
Too late! :D

Michael

Originally posted by marcelval
umr: I noticed the POP item in the MID5 group seems to have a big effect on sharpness (or blurriness if you will). But it is not one of the things you tweak. Is there a downside to altering this value? I found I liked a value of 10 as opposed to the default 8. What's weird is it seemed that setting it to 9 made the image softer than either 8 or 10. Do you know exactly how the POP item works?

Yes and yes.:D

Pop is a number for what settings you get for 1080,720,480p,&480i.when you do Umrs settings it is Easter to do it each input at a time. Enter the menu on DVD 480P, I think it say's 52. Set the tweak settings as noted. 52 would be Pro,54 Standard,55 Vivid. But they don't change when in the service menu. The DCP-ADJ-2 I think its #16 or 17 will tell you what the setting pop should be. When you go to 1080 I think the # is 72 for Pro, you can go to Mid 5 & change pop to 72, & tweak the Umr settings with out going back & forth. I think Its best at first to keep Standard & Vivid at factory settings first. Then you can compare how you are doing.....G.B.

OK, DCP-AD2 # 16 you will see MIDE & a number example 52. This is what your MID 5 number should go to & it will if you go to it & stay in the input setting when you entered the menu. It will not though in the service menu, as you change from 480 P to 1080 I. But you can go back to DCP-AD2 & see what number it has & go back to POP & change to that number & do the tweaks. I don't have my notes with me, or I could tell you the settings for PRO, with the 1080 I, 720 P , 480 P. Log what factory settings before you change.

umr and G.B.: Ok, so I got off my ass and searched the GW3 tweak thread (which I am laboriously reading but only got to page 25) and I think I understand how POP works. This also explains why the other MID5 adjustments I made got changed back since I played with POP after makeing the MID5 tweaks. Service menu is fun, I think the danger is part of the mystique.

Ok, another issue I have is that changes to UPIC, UBRT, USHP will not stick. Within a second of changing the value it goes back to it's original setting.

Pop had everybody not certain how it works at first. A forum member named Googer was one of the first to understand how & why this works like it does. The numbers are pre set numbers & Sony or the company that makes the chip set it up like this, then someone experiments for the best settings for each input. We have never had television that has so many inputs & timings as now. This is why it is hard to make standard definition & H D TV look good. Hit mute & enter quick when It say's write It then turns red I think. This service menu is one of the hardest with so many things in it. don't get lost & log all setting, then change.

By the way UMR is one of the best in the SONY tweaks & I think he has also helped Mitsubishi people lately. Some settings you do to all Tv's & some special for each model. We can never repay them for the time in the service menu to find the settings.G.B.

I am a newbie, and have heard AVIA , and other media mentioned many times for set up. I haven't been able to find any info as to where to get info about what it is how to use or where to purchase any of this. Any help appreciated.
I am a new owner of 60xs and would like to use to its full potential.

Originally posted by marcelval
Ok, another issue I have is that changes to UPIC, UBRT, USHP will not stick. Within a second of changing the value it goes back to it's original setting.

I ran into this issue last night. I found out that it's the same as the Picture, Brightness, and Sharpness in User Menu. So I was able to alter the settings through User menu.

I have a 60XS and I was also able to improve the overall black level by setting Gamma Corrector to High and adjust brightness using AVIA. Try watching the LOTR Moria scene before and after making changes. It makes a big difference I think.

Originally posted by aztjc
I am a newbie, and have heard AVIA , and other media mentioned many times for set up. I haven't been able to find any info as to where to get info about what it is how to use or where to purchase any of this. Any help appreciated.
I am a new owner of 60xs and would like to use to its full potential.

Do a general or DVD search on Amazon for Avia. Amazon will also show you Digital Video Essentials, the competing tweaks DVD.

One thing I noticed after I got done with making changes in the service menu, using the remote, I turned off the power and back on in less than 3 seconds, the tv doesn't turn back on as fast as it used to. Once the power button is pressed, the led light does the normal blinking and then it looks like it rebooted. The screen goes completely black, then the blinking repeats and then eventually powers on. It took twice as long to power up as it used to. Is this normal?

Could be, or sometimes if you are waiting for something it seams like a long time....

The picture on my KDF55WF655 has slant upwards from the right to left side. This is the 2nd set I've tried (the first one had the same problem but form the opposite direction).

Are there any geometry controls in the service menu, or does this require a physical tweak?

Originally posted by G.B.
This service menu is one of the hardest with so many things in it. don't get lost & log all setting, then change.

I'm a bit worried because I did log the Pop values, but after changing it I went back into MID5 and made more changes (as some had gotten reset). Now I am unclear if I can get back to all the original values in MID5 and POP (since I changed how the POP setting was configured). So far I have only adjusted Input 1, so I am hoping I can look at input 2 and 3 and check and make sure I have logged all the proper defaults. But I take it that input 2 and 3 will each have a different POP value, or do they use the same value as Input 1 (on a GWIV the user menu controls are separate for each input). :confused:

BTW thanks to umr, yourself, and all other tweakers who have contributed!

Originally posted by lap561
One thing I noticed after I got done with making changes in the service menu, using the remote, I turned off the power and back on in less than 3 seconds, the tv doesn't turn back on as fast as it used to. Once the power button is pressed, the led light does the normal blinking and then it looks like it rebooted. The screen goes completely black, then the blinking repeats and then eventually powers on. It took twice as long to power up as it used to. Is this normal?

I don't beleive I noticed any difference in power up. I'll pay more attention next time I go into the SM... Is the power up slower all the time now, or just when you came out of the SM?

Originally posted by lap561
I ran into this issue last night. I found out that it's the same as the Picture, Brightness, and Sharpness in User Menu. So I was able to alter the settings through User menu.

Yes, but the SM settings allow you to set the default values for the user menu, so that when you hit reset in the user menu your tweaked values will be restored. Also if you have to unplug the set, when you plug it back in the tweaked defaults will be setup in the user menu.

Anyone else have trouble setting UPIC, UBRT, USHP?

Originally posted by nixima
Category DCP-ADJ1

RDRV 131*
GDRV 140*
BDRV 102*
RCUT 255*
GCUT 242*
BCUT 255*
Are these the same parameters that can be set as part of the White Balance sub-menu, for RGB Gain and Bias, within the Advanced Video menu on the 55xs955? If so, is the only advantage of setting these parameters in the SM would be to maintain the defaults in the event of a reset?

Michael

Originally posted by marcelval
I don't beleive I noticed any difference in power up. I'll pay more attention next time I go into the SM... Is the power up slower all the time now, or just when you came out of the SM?

It was just when coming out of SM. Last night, the set has been powering up normally. I think it's normal now that it only does it after making changes in SM. I was just a bit freaked out by it the other night.

Originally posted by lap561
I have a 60XS and I was also able to improve the overall black level by setting Gamma Corrector to High and adjust brightness using AVIA. Try watching the LOTR Moria scene before and after making changes. It makes a big difference I think.

I take this back. Last night I did more tweaking. I decided to give THX optimizer a try. Setting the brightness with the THX optimizer has better PQ when doing it with AVIA. So I turned off Gamma Corrector and followed the THX optimizer's instruction to set brightness. I know Umr has suggested that but I didn't think it would make that much of a difference.

So, I think I'm satisfied with PQ...for now. My wife comes home today so no time to play.

I have the 60xs, and in trying to connect components I find that the optical out to my receiver only works for the OTA. Also the audio out does not seem to work at all. I've tried the speaker on/off , no reaction.
Does anyone know of other settings that have to be made to make these work that I am missing?
Any help appreciated.
aztjc

Originally posted by Michael Mohrmann
Are these the same parameters that can be set as part of the White Balance sub-menu, for RGB Gain and Bias, within the Advanced Video menu on the 55xs955? If so, is the only advantage of setting these parameters in the SM would be to maintain the defaults in the event of a reset?

Michael

How does one go about doing a reset in the event a wrong value is changed in the service mode?

DEH

Remember MID 5 POP is set by what DCP-ADJ2 # 16 MIDE what ever number it say's example PRO = 52 when you are in 480P on DVD. In the service menu # 16 MIDE will change & tell you what MID 5 should be, but MID 5 will not change when you are in the service menu. So you can change POP what MIDE say's & do your tweaks for the different timings, or do one input at a time, with what ever 1080, 720, 480 P, 480 I. Each one of the timings they use a different POP setting. Do PRO only at first...... For UPIC, UBRT,USHP, remember the most important thing is if you change them in service menu, when you come out of service menu, or go into the service menu, you need to hit reset on your remote in the user menu under PRO. then you will be set & see your changes in the user menu.

Remember to log your settings , then you can go back if you don't like your new settings. Not to many has done the 8 inter , or when they do it takes a bit of time for the Tv to reboot. Also if you don't hit mute-enter, when you unplug , when it reboots it goes back to factory. But do not unplug till bulb fan has stopped & cooled the bulb.

Originally posted by aztjc
I have the 60xs, and in trying to connect components I find that the optical out to my receiver only works for the OTA. Also the audio out does not seem to work at all. I've tried the speaker on/off , no reaction.
Does anyone know of other settings that have to be made to make these work that I am missing?
Any help appreciated.
aztjc

aztjc,
I ran into, and worked through these same (unfortunate) issues.
1. Digital optical output is only available for digital signals, whether they are received OTA or cable.
2. The analog output only works when you turn the speakers OFF, and set them to FIXED output. You need to have the volume of the set turned up slightly when you switch into this mode for this to happen. It seems that if you have the volume turned all the way down and then make the menu changes to turn the speakers OFF w/ FIXED output, you still don't get any output. Maybe FIXED output means 'fixed' to the current speaker volume.
[This is all really screwy, and is not at all clear in the owners manual. In fact, the text describing 'fixed' and 'variable' output is identical, so even Sony is confused as to how this works.]
3. So, to get this all to work, you need to connect the digital output AND and analog output between the TV and the audio equipment. Fortunately, my receiver switches automatically from digital input to audio input, if the digital signal is not available.
4. UNFORTUNATELY, you can't do what you really want to do, and be able to turn the TV volume all the way down, and then just use the receiver to drive all the speakers, in a way that is seamless, without having to go through the machinations to turn the internal speakers off.

Maybe (PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE?) Sony will fix this in a subsequent firmware that will have the set always drive a fixed output to the audio out jacks, whether the internal speakers are on or off.


Dave

Originally posted by G.B.
Remember MID 5 POP is set by what DCP-ADJ2 # 16 MIDE what ever number it say's example PRO = 52 when you are in 480P on DVD. In the service menu # 16 MIDE will change & tell you what MID 5 should be, but MID 5 will not change when you are in the service menu. So you can change POP what MIDE say's & do your tweaks for the different timings, or do one input at a time, with what ever 1080, 720, 480 P, 480 I. Each one of the timings they use a different POP setting. Do PRO only at first...... For UPIC, UBRT,USHP, remember the most important thing is if you change them in service menu, when you come out of service menu, or go into the service menu, you need to hit reset on your remote in the user menu under PRO. then you will be set & see your changes in the user menu.

I am following that. My problem (which may not really be a problem) is that I did this:
In the service menu in pro mode for Input 1 480i made adjustments to MID5: MVLC, MHLC, MVLS, MVFM, and MHFM. Saved each with mute-enter. Then fooled with POP and changed it to 10 from 8 which I understand resets the MID5 values with whatever the #10 POP profile has. Then I looked back at the other MID5 settings and saw they had somehow been altered, so I changed them back to what I wanted and mute-enter saved each one. So I have now altered both the POP=8 and POP=10 settings, and I don't have the default values for POP=10...

My plan is to take a look at Inputs 2 and 3, and I am hoping that since the GWIV has separate memory for each input I can get down all the default MID5 settings for each mode.

Ok , also remember POP is also a different number for vivid, standard, at 480I. I have the numbers it should be for the XBR , but don't know if the same in the GWIV. OK,looks like the same, it is VIVID POP 11, STANDARD POP 10, PRO POP 8. So it is up to you, if it looks good in standard on 480I I would leave it. Look at the Vivid # 11 & it would or should be the same in POP for standard. Then go back to what the old settings & see what looks the best to you. Always turn off the sharp enhancement or other if you have it on this model , but you do this when you reset before you enter the service menu. Do everything Umr say's to do going into the service menu.

Originally posted by davis03
aztjc,
I ran into, and worked through these same (unfortunate) issues.
1. Digital optical output is only available for digital signals, whether they are received OTA or cable.
2. The analog output only works when you turn the speakers OFF, and set them to FIXED output. You need to have the volume of the set turned up slightly when you switch into this mode for this to happen. It seems that if you have the volume turned all the way down and then make the menu changes to turn the speakers OFF w/ FIXED output, you still don't get any output. Maybe FIXED output means 'fixed' to the current speaker volume.
[This is all really screwy, and is not at all clear in the owners manual. In fact, the text describing 'fixed' and 'variable' output is identical, so even Sony is confused as to how this works.]
3. So, to get this all to work, you need to connect the digital output AND and analog output between the TV and the audio equipment. Fortunately, my receiver switches automatically from digital input to audio input, if the digital signal is not available.
4. UNFORTUNATELY, you can't do what you really want to do, and be able to turn the TV volume all the way down, and then just use the receiver to drive all the speakers, in a way that is seamless, without having to go through the machinations to turn the internal speakers off.

Maybe (PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE?) Sony will fix this in a subsequent firmware that will have the set always drive a fixed output to the audio out jacks, whether the internal speakers are on or off.


Dave


Do other makers also have to disable the internal speakers in order to get analog audio output from the set?
I've got a 6 year old Sony 35XBR direct view CRT that passes the analog audio out when the speakers are enabled. I find this a very useful "feature" and operate the set that way by default.

Unless I get a STB or external receiver to feed the audio signal directly to my home theater system, I will not be able to operate the way I'm accustomed to. Requiring external devices to pass the analog audio kind of defeats the usefulness of the internal tuner/cablecard options on the sets.

I've been waiting for the 50XS955's to show up in stores but now I may go with another maker :(

Originally posted by davis03

Maybe (PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE?) Sony will fix this in a subsequent firmware that will have the set always drive a fixed output to the audio out jacks, whether the internal speakers are on or off.


I agree that this would be the most desirable and sensible way of doing things, but a programmable remote control can overcome issues like this. It seems to me that it should not be a big factor in choosing a TV.

So, I've been running with fretbored03's settings for a week or so now and they seem to be good for most of my inputs. I had to bump up the sharpness on my PS2 input and tweak the DVD input a little. Overall I am very pleased with this TV and I haven't regreted for a second me trading in the Samsung HLP for it.

Does anyone else have any settings they are recommending to try?

Has anyone tried a neutral density filter for black level yet? Is this the equivalent of the reduced power mode?

Okay I ventured in to the service menu today to correct overscan on my dvd input (video4). I need to move the horizontal down about 1/4". However trying to follow the UMR pdf I looked at over in the GWIII thread I could not find anything that looked like the section to correct the horizontal and vertical settings. I'm also a little confused about the jump button. A few posts back it says to hit the jump button twice to get into the service menu on the GWIV's after doing the display, 5 volume+, power thing, which then just gives me huge letters across the top of the screen so I backed out and decided to ask for help.

So if someone wouldn't mind, could you please give me a step by step to getting to the horizontal adjustment on the GWIV KDF55WF from the beginning?

Greatly appreciated and the information here is priceless.

-R

Here goes nothing.

First off, just like the UMR pdf file says. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. THESE CHANGES MAY RENDER YOUR SET INOPERABLE.

In The MID1 Category

Item 0 DHPH - adjusts your Horizontal Position
Item 1 DVPH - adjusts your Vertical Position
Item 11 MDHS - adjusts your Horizontal Size
Item 13 MDVS - adjusts your Vertical Size.

These settings do snap back to their original values pretty quickly. So save them after you make adjustments to each value.

I'm attempting to attach a zipped excel spreadsheet to this forum message that may help you. But, I'm not getting anywhere with my attempts.

Good Luck,

7

Thanks for the spreadsheet. It made navigating the service menu catagories much easier. I was able to adjust the overscan and correct the image so it's spot on centered. I was surprised how out of wack the factory set this thing, but now perfect!

Thanks,

-Rob

No Prob.

I downloaded it from the GWIII tweaks thread here. Someone originally posted it with their 42WE610 values. And I updated it for use with my 55WF655. So, I can't take complete credit for it. But, I'm glad it got you over the hump.

7

Originally posted by Jon7athan
No Prob.

I downloaded it from the GWIII tweaks thread here. Someone originally posted it with their 42WE610 values. And I updated it for use with my 55WF655. So, I can't take complete credit for it. But, I'm glad it got you over the hump.

7

According to the spreadsheet you are running with UHUE of 0 and USHP of 31. Is this true?

Thank you for posting the spreadsheet!!!

Sorry, those are reversed. UHUE = 31 & USHP = 0. You're Welcome.

Thanks,

7
According to the spreadsheet you are running with UHUE of 0 and USHP of 31. Is this true?

All,

I received my 42WE655 last Friday and over the weekend I entered the service menu just to get comfortable with the process. After using the 'display - 5 - vol+ - power' keystrokes I noticed that I had 4 menus to choose from and that the 'jump' key toggled through them. They were, 'Version - QT - WEM2 - Panel'. Can anyone tell me what these are?

Thank you,
Mike

Originally posted by fretbored03
I started with USHP at 0. (Force of habit from my days calibrating CRT displays I guess.) The changes to SHOF, MVLC, MHLC, MVLS, MVFM, and MHFM improved the resolution such that USHP could be left at 0.

What do those acronyms (MVLC, MHCL, MVLS, MFVM and MHFM) stand for? I'm just curious as to exactly what those tweak, other than they affect sharpness/resolution.

UMR's original GWIII tweaks included MHLC across the board, and MVLS for the 480i/p signals. What led you to tweak the others?

Does anyone know what the parameters are to adjust pincushion and trapezoid distortion?

My WF655 bows in slightly in the middle for 480i cable stations (1-2mm) and is slightly wider at the bottom of the screen than at the top (1-2mm). The THX rectangles from my DVD player look OK, so I was also wondering if these settings (in MID1?) were input-specific so I could limit their affect to the cable input.

Hi, I am new to these forums and will appreciate any help on the problem I have with the my KDF60XS unit. The thing that is really bothering me is that when I change the caption in the moto DTC5100 top box to allow caption, the TV does not block the caption. It is on all the time, even if I set caption on the TV menu to off. If I block the caption at the box, then I have no caption at all.

With my older cable box the caption worked fine for two days, until I replaced my stb with a Motorola DTC5100. I tried the same box with other TV's (Mits and AKAI) and the caption is blocked by the tv menu if it is ON in the box.

Maybe another firmware issue?.

have a really stupid question:

1. when entering the Service Menu, and change some of the values recommended in Page1 of this thread, how do I tell it to assing them to video7 input (HDMI 1, which is connected to my DVD player)? Is there individual settings for each video input?

2. the values are recommended for component and DVI, but are they going to work ok on HDMI?

sorry in advance for the newbie question

Are you sure this is an issue with the TV, or is it a fault of the box? If you're setting the caption to "on" on the box, isn't it possible that the caption is being display on the same signal that the TV is receiving the picture (seems like this would be a feature to use if your TV wasn't capable of doing CC itself)? In that case, the caption would always be on, as mandated by the box.

Have you tried turning CC off on the STB and then playing with it on the TV? Maybe you can control it better that way?

Just a thought. I haven't noticed this on my set, but I've not used the caption feature either, so I ca'nt tell you whether this is abnormal.

Good luck.

Hey, has anyone started applying the "UMR tweaks" to an XS model? Seems like there have been posts from WE and WF owners, but I'd be really interested to hear how they've been working for the XS and to see some of the settings people are using. Thanks!

ssabripo,

I've just started poking around in the service menu myself and will apply the UMR tweaks when I have more time to study before and after effects.

If I read the instructions correctly the service menu values you see are for the currently active input, and you need a signal there to be able to change any settings.

I have a cable signal coming in on the cable RF input, and that means that I have three sets of settings to deal with: 480i, 720p and 1080i. (The two HD signals have the same settings for the parameters I've looked at, so they might not actually be separate - I'll find out when I make a change to one of them.) To get to each group of settings I select an appropriate channel before getting into the service menu. The first SM screen shows where I am (TV 480i, ATSC 720p, ATSC 1080i) and I assume that any changes I make might only apply to that specific type of signal on that input. I haven't played with the DVD yet, but I assume I will see both 480i and 480p settings on that input.

Before you make changes, explore extensively. Make a matrix of all the inputs and signal types you have and then feed a signal for each one. Get into the service menu and write down all the values for the parameters you plan to tweak. Then you can go back and start making changes.

Edit - found a 4th set of settings for the cable input. Digital 480i stations (ATSC 480i on the first SM screen).

Originally posted by jjdenver
ssabripo,

I've just started poking around in the service menu myself and will apply the UMR tweaks when I have more time to study before and after effects.

If I read the instructions correctly the service menu values you see are for the currently active input, and you need a signal there to be able to change any settings.

I have a cable signal coming in on the cable RF input, and that means that I have three sets of settings to deal with: 480i, 720p and 1080i. (The two HD signals have the same settings for the parameters I've looked at, so they might not actually be separate - I'll find out when I make a change to one of them.) To get to each group of settings I select an appropriate channel before getting into the service menu. The first SM screen shows where I am (TV 480i, ATSC 720p, ATSC 1080i) and I assume that any changes I make might only apply to that specific type of signal on that input. I haven't played with the DVD yet, but I assume I will see both 480i and 480p settings on that input.

Before you make changes, explore extensively. Make a matrix of all the inputs and signal types you have and then feed a signal for each one. Get into the service menu and write down all the values for the parameters you plan to tweak. Then you can go back and start making changes.

THANKS!!!

ok, so I will try that now...I'm going to hookup the DVD, with a DVD in it, and have it on video7 (the HDMI connection 1)...then I will go into the SM.

one thing that confuses me about what you said, is that it will display the available signals.....well, if my dvd is outputing 720p, for example, will it only display that, or will it display 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i (all supported formats)?

As for the cable RF input, do I have to go channel by channel or will it apply to all channels ?

thanks

I don't know if you can switch to a different set of SM parameters while in the SM or not. Just to be safe, I've been exiting from the service menu, changing input signals, and then getting back in.

For RF inputs, changing the settings for 480i analog TV channels should apply to all of them, but I don't know if any of these changes carry over to anything else. Lots to learn...

Well... I tried to enter the service menu several times, and can see it, but cannot get to the following values:

Category DCP-ADJ1

RDRV 131*
GDRV 140*
BDRV 102*
RCUT 255*
GCUT 242*
BCUT 255*

Category DCP-ADJ2

SHOF 15

Category MID-5

MVLC 1
MHLC 1
MVLS 0
MVFM 4
MHFM 4

I dont know what I am doing wrong, but I see several categories but not the DCP-ADJ1 or anything of that sort.....my input is a DVD 720p into the HDMI video7 in.:confused:

Yes, I blocked the caption at the box and did not get the caption to display on the TV via the TV menus. I called Sony Help and they were at a loss also. They recommended me to schedule a service visit with an Authorized SONY service center.

I am reading lots of post to soak myself with a little more knowledge before I try some of the tweaks, since I since to have the common problem of symmetry as well.

Thanks for your help.!

Originally posted by ssabripo
Well... I tried to enter the service menu several times, and can see it, but cannot get to the following values:

Category DCP-ADJ1

RDRV 131*
GDRV 140*
BDRV 102*
RCUT 255*
GCUT 242*
BCUT 255*

Category DCP-ADJ2

SHOF 15

Category MID-5

MVLC 1
MHLC 1
MVLS 0
MVFM 4
MHFM 4

I dont know what I am doing wrong, but I see several categories but not the DCP-ADJ1 or anything of that sort.....my input is a DVD 720p into the HDMI video7 in.:confused:


ssabrripo,

Once you've entered the service menu are you seeing a 'version' menu? If so, you need to use the 'jump' key to toggle through four menu options. Once you find the 'WEM2' menu you will be able to scroll to see the options that you are looking for.

Hope this helps,
Mike

Originally posted by mpesta
ssabrripo,

Once you've entered the service menu are you seeing a 'version' menu? If so, you need to use the 'jump' key to toggle through four menu options. Once you find the 'WEM2' menu you will be able to scroll to see the options that you are looking for.

Hope this helps,
Mike

THANK YOU!!!! http://forums.offtopic.com/images/smilies/bowdown.gif

I will try that today when I get home....I was so frustrated last nite!

Also, does everyone have the same settings for the brightness, hue, etc, as posted in the first page, and if not, post yours....lets see what the variance is :p

I don't know if you can switch to a different set of SM parameters while in the SM or not. Just to be safe, I've been exiting from the service menu, changing input signals, and then getting back in.

For RF inputs, changing the settings for 480i analog TV channels should apply to all of them, but I don't know if any of these changes carry over to anything else.

Greetings all. You can change inputs while in the SM so you can view the different settings for each without having to leave the SM. As always be careful about pressing any buttons (especially 3 or 6) inadvertently.

Some of the settings seem to carry over, some do not. Keeping an accurate record of your starting point and changes certainly helps.

(I have a KDF-55WF655 for reference)

I have found these settings very favorable for resolution in my case (changes noted in ():

Input--DVD 480p/i and HD signals 1080i/720p
MID 5
1 MHFM (2)
2 MVFM (3)
3 MVLS (0)
4 MHLC (0)

edit: On the 480p/i input I adjusted MVFM to (2) instead of (3) as noted in the original post. This "smoothed" bright edges. Good reference material to view these edges are bald head images that are reflecting light--such as Mace Windu in SWII while in the Chancellor's office, or Captain Picard in ST Nemesis. The "white" or very bright reflection's edges were smoothed, eliminating the overly enhanced, somewhat "jaggy" edge.

One further thing. An excellent reference I've found for viewing the difference in resolution these changes make is in the Matrix Reloaded, scene 5, where Morpheous is speaking with Jason in his office. Pause on a close up of Jason's face and then do some alterations with the MVLS and MHLC settings. You'll see immediately the differences in clarity on the textures of the face. edit

Still evaluating results on other inputs. Hope this is helpful.

Originally posted by atypicalv

(I have a KDF-55WF655 for reference)

I have found these settings very favorable for resolution in my case (changes noted in ():

Input--DVD 480p/i and HD signals 1080i/720p
MID 5
1 MHFM (2)
2 MVFM (3)
3 MVLS (0)
4 MHLC (0)

edit: On the 480p/i input I adjusted MVFM to (2) instead of (3) as noted in the original post. This "smoothed" bright edges. Good reference material to view these edges are bald head images that are reflecting light--such as Mace Windu in SWII while in the Chancellor's office, or Captain Picard in ST Nemesis. The "white" or very bright reflection's edges were smoothed, eliminating the overly enhanced, somewhat "jaggy" edge.

One further thing. An excellent reference I've found for viewing the difference in resolution these changes make is in the Matrix Reloaded, scene 5, where Morpheous is speaking with Jason in his office. Pause on a close up of Jason's face and then do some alterations with the MVLS and MHLC settings. You'll see immediately the differences in clarity on the textures of the face. edit

Still evaluating results on other inputs. Hope this is helpful.

excellent post....I will try the original numbers, and compare those to yours.....I'm gonna use Lord Of the Rings- Extended Edition as my DVD input signal, and will try it at 720p

I did some of the original tweaks in this thread, and now I'm seeing a small problem. When there is a lot fo motion on the screen, it almost looks like the picture gets "blurry" or loses focus. This is really noticable on HD football. I have digital cable from Comcast so, my questions are:

1) Did the tweaks cause this, or is it an affect of compression
2) Can I change any setting to minimize this?

Don

Originally posted by deh
I did some of the original tweaks in this thread, and now I'm seeing a small problem. When there is a lot fo motion on the screen, it almost looks like the picture gets "blurry" or loses focus. This is really noticable on HD football. I have digital cable from Comcast so, my questions are:

1) Did the tweaks cause this, or is it an affect of compression
2) Can I change any setting to minimize this?

Don

The tweaks are not likely causing this. Before you tweaked your set the TV was filtering the inputs. It was hiding the effect of HD MPEG compression. Now you are seeing something closer to what is really coming into the TV. It does get ugly sometimes. You can impact this by restoring the filtering which makes the picture consistently blurry or you can try and improve the source quality you are using by experimenting with different STB's for OTA, cable and DBS.

I find LG HD STB's provide me with the best images.

The tweaks are not likely causing this. Before you tweaked your set the TV was filtering the inputs. It was hiding the effect of HD MPEG compression. Now you are seeing something closer to what is really coming into the TV. It does get ugly sometimes. You can impact this by restoring the filtering which makes the picture consistently blurry or you can try and improve the source quality you are using by experimenting with different STB's for OTA, cable and DBS.

I find LG HD STB's provide me with the best images.

I have a motorola box now. Thanks for the information; if I find an acceptable way of tweaking this while still maintaining picture quality I'll let you know.

Don

deh, I have heard some say to switch to 720 P for sports, have not tried this yet myself. Umr, is right the all of our source's are now so compressed, so this is causing most of the problem. Its not in your set.

Guys,

I dont mean to go offtopic with this, but is it even worth for the GWIIII to go with the calibration discs? It seems like many of you are seing slight improvements, while fairing a bit better with service codes.

Your input?

deh

i also notice the "motion blur" that you see. i get it while watching hd football when there is a long pass that requires the camera to pan fast. i don't think it's the tv, because i also noticed it on my old crt set.

but still, i wish there was a way to fix it. it happens OTA and thru my motorala cable box. let us know if you find a fix.

G.B.

how do you switch to output 720p? i have a 55wf655

Originally posted by cracker23
i also notice the "motion blur" that you see. i get it while watching hd football when there is a long pass that requires the camera to pan fast. i don't think it's the tv, because i also noticed it on my old crt set.

but still, i wish there was a way to fix it.
I think you may have answered your own question. If it is a HD signal, and the "motion blur" occurs on your CRT, then chances are you are seeing the artifacts of digitally recording the fast pan in the football games.

Michael

Originally posted by cracker23
deh

i also notice the "motion blur" that you see. i get it while watching hd football when there is a long pass that requires the camera to pan fast. i don't think it's the tv, because i also noticed it on my old crt set.

but still, i wish there was a way to fix it. it happens OTA and thru my motorala cable box. let us know if you find a fix.

G.B.

how do you switch to output 720p? i have a 55wf655

I'm not sure how you switch to 720p on your motorola cable box - on the HD Tivo, in the video setup menu you can opt to have 480i, 480p, 720p, and/or 1080i outputs available, then you can switch between them by pressing the up arrow on the Tivo remote. So it's the source that determines the resolution - you don't change it on the TV (I have the 60XS). At least that's my basic understanding - anyone else?

Hello,
I just tweeked my set this evening..few question. I guess I didn't pay toomuch attention, but following the spreadsheet, I changed all the inputs to MIDI 56..which changed the POP value..did I just screw up?? What should the original values be (all are on PRO mode). Also I read here about turning on/off the way the TV filters signals..how is this done. Lastly, also read about turning on the Power ??? mode to improve blacks..how is this done.

Thanks.

I have the Motorola box with Moxi and there is a video output setting where you can switch to the different video outputs. I can't tell any difference between 720p and 1080i but I've been running at 720p. The bad thing is that SD looks much better using the Sony tuner so I have to switch back and forth between the Motorola and the GWIV tuner a lot which is a pain.

Originally posted by G.B.
deh, I have heard some say to switch to 720 P for sports, have not tried this yet myself. Umr, is right the all of our source's are now so compressed, so this is causing most of the problem. Its not in your set.

Allright, I'll give this a shot and see if it helps. FWIW though, I started to look for it on my 27" TV in the bedroom, and while it is not as noticable, I see it there too. I'm just glad it ISN'T the TV.

Don

Originally posted by heywood jablomy
I'm not sure how you switch to 720p on your motorola cable box - on the HD Tivo, in the video setup menu you can opt to have 480i, 480p, 720p, and/or 1080i outputs available, then you can switch between them by pressing the up arrow on the Tivo remote. So it's the source that determines the resolution - you don't change it on the TV (I have the 60XS). At least that's my basic understanding - anyone else?

For the Motorla Box I have, with the box OFF, hit the menu button on the front and it brings up a menu. The cable guy set it to always output 1080i to the tv. I'll see what happens when I change it.

Don

In preparation of setting up our 55xs955 (still in its box) and calibrating, I've been reading the GWII and GWIII tweak threads on this forum. One thing that struck me as disconcerting was the need to repeatedly shut down the TV in order to save the SM changes. I assume that this is the same for the GWIVs, but that's where my concern is. Doesn't this repeated shutdown, startup cycling cause additional stress on the LCD lamp? It would seem that in order to calibrate the SM for all sources and all applicable resolutions that this would shorten the lifespan of the lamp.

Michael

No, you don't need to shut down the TV to save the SM changes. Just press 'MUTING' followed by "ENTER' while in SM to save the changes.

Originally posted by chiifac
No, you don't need to shut down the TV to save the SM changes. Just press 'MUTING' followed by "ENTER' while in SM to save the changes.
I must have misread the threads then. Too many posts, too much research. Guess I'll have to read them a little more slowly and thoroughly.

Michael

Originally posted by deh
For the Motorla Box I have, with the box OFF, hit the menu button on the front and it brings up a menu. The cable guy set it to always output 1080i to the tv...

Thanks for the info deh. I can't believe I didn't read the manual on that one. Just got through changing my cable box settings. Turns out the component settings also change the DVI out output.

I have the 60xs, and also see some of the blur when fast paced sports are on. Its not too bad, but I don’t think it's the TV.

Question: I am currently hooked up to a Time Warner Cable HD STB via component. The box has a DVI out, should I be taking advantage of this? Should I go DVI to HDMI? Just looking for the best PQ.

Originally posted by laynrubr
I have the 60xs, and also see some of the blur when fast paced sports are on. Its not too bad, but I don’t think it's the TV.

Question: I am currently hooked up to a Time Warner Cable HD STB via component. The box has a DVI out, should I be taking advantage of this? Should I go DVI to HDMI? Just looking for the best PQ.

Are you getting HD out of component? What does the display button info say? I thought US equipment was not allowed to output HD via component, only over HDCP compliant interfaces (DVI & HDMI).

Originally posted by rmcewan
Are you getting HD out of component? What does the display button info say? I thought US equipment was not allowed to output HD via component, only over HDCP compliant interfaces (DVI & HDMI).

I think that "prohibition" is merely pressure from the dvd consortium; I've been receiving terrestrial Hidef channels and directtv Hidef for over a year using a Sony Sat-HD520 directtv tuner. DVD's players, on the otherhand, appear to limit upscaling to DVI/HDMI

Originally posted by Michael Mohrmann
I must have misread the threads then. Too many posts, too much research. Guess I'll have to read them a little more slowly and thoroughly.

Michael

Hey Michael,

So you going to give the tweaks a shot then? I'm looking forward to hearing how the XS fares with these and seeing some XS users settings. Seems like most of the people who've tried out the UMR tweaks have been WF/WE owners. Let us know how it turns out. If I have time this weekend I'm going to try to start this process on my 55xs.

-Mike

deh, Here is some popular threads they have on 1080I vs 720 P in the General topics http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?threadid=174228&perpage=20&pagenumber=3

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?threadid=323602&referrerid=7446301 another....

Looks like for slow moving pictures you get more detail 1080 I. Sports & fast moving pictures 720 P. Umr might be able to explain better. For our 480 I or 480 P Sony upscales it to 788 P. Keep in mind it depends on how you get the source to your set to. Satellite, Cable, Antenna.

rmcewan,

The cable guy hooked up my cable box via component. Does anyone know if I should switch to DVI-HDMI?

Originally posted by laynrubr
rmcewan,

The cable guy hooked up my cable box via component. Does anyone know if I should switch to DVI-HDMI?

You'll be fine with the component. I've had HD running through component hooked up to my TV for months now, no problem.

If you feel like it's worth it, swithch to HDMI/DVI, otherwise it's a non-issue.

Originally posted by mklaessy
You'll be fine with the component. I've had HD running through component hooked up to my TV for months now, no problem.

If you feel like it's worth it, swithch to HDMI/DVI, otherwise it's a non-issue.

If you are actually getting HD via component, fine. As I said, new/recent US equipment will not output protected content in HD over component. Check you are actually getting 720p or 1080i over the STB component-out. Check it on both regular channels and premium channels. Your TV display button will show the resolution in the top right - it will say 720p or 1080i. Below is a close-up example of the difference between 480p component and 1080i HDMI from a dvd source on my 55WF655. Also, a $20 HDMI cable will perform at least as well as an $80 Monster component cable.

http://www.mcewan.biz/480p1080i.jpg

rmcwan: what DVD player are you using?

Originally posted by rmcewan
http://www.mcewan.biz/480p1080i.jpg

Very pretty, but the question was related to HD from a CABLE BOX running over component, not 480p vs. 1080i from a DVD PLAYER.

HD from a cable box runs very nicely over component cables at 720P and 1080i.

Most upscaling DVD players, unless you have have a Momitsu or like, do require HDMI/DVI to output 720P/1080i. I also have my DVD player hooked up my 55xs outputting 1080I over a DVI-->HDMI cable and think this is the best setup for the picture. Though I confess I never tried it over component (Momitsu v880dx which up-converts over component) and that might look nice as well.

Point was, from the cable box there are not HDCP restrictions so picture can be transfered in HD (720P/1080I) over either component or DVI/HDMI cables so there is no need to rush out and buy another set unless you feel like it's worth it.

Originally posted by pilotbiffster
I think that "prohibition" is merely pressure from the dvd consortium; I've been receiving terrestrial Hidef channels and directtv Hidef for over a year using a Sony Sat-HD520 directtv tuner. DVD's players, on the otherhand, appear to limit upscaling to DVI/HDMI

Hmmm, I understood that premium HD cable/sat content on HBO etc. was going to require HDCP compliant interfaces?

[QUOTE]Originally posted by rmcewan
[B]If you are actually getting HD via component, fine. As I said, new/recent US equipment will not output protected content in HD over component. Check you are actually getting 720p or 1080i over the STB component-out. Check it on both regular channels and premium channels. Your TV display button will show the resolution in the top right - it will say 720p or 1080i. Below is a close-up example of the difference between 480p component and 1080i HDMI from a dvd source on my 55WF655. Also, a $20 HDMI cable will perform at least as well as an $80 Monster component cable.



I don't know of anyone down rezzing HD over component outputs yet. It could be done later on, but right now I haven't heard of it actually being done.

As I said, new/recent US equipment will not output protected content in HD over component.

Are you sure about this? How NEW are you talking about? I have the latest Hughes DTV-HD receiver (the one currently being sold) and it definitely puts out HD (720 or 1080) through component. Image is the same as it's DVI output. What content / programs are being protected. Nothing I've seen so far.??

Jeff

I have the new motorola HD receiver and DVR from Comcast (got it last week) and it does just fine with HD through component hook up... I haven't tried the DVI connection yet so can't comment if that looks better or not...

I just had a 50WE655 delivered and I am on the road so am anxious to play with it and I was doing my reading and the AVIA disk is a common mention. Does this come with the TV or do I need to purchase this disk. If I need to purchase can you identify the proper source and expected cost.

Originally posted by laynrubr
The cable guy hooked up my cable box via component. Does anyone know if I should switch to DVI-HDMI?

I tried a DVI>HDMI cable with my 55WF to connect my Sci-Atl cable box to my TV. It worked fine and looked good, but no real apparent improvement over my component cables. With my component cables, I set my box at 1080i and it looks pretty darn good on all HD channels. Took the cable back and will wait to get a straight up HDMI cable and use it to connect wahtever DVD player I buy that has HDMI out. I think it'll be much better utilized that way.

Thanks Domer67. Looks like I will stick with component then. Definately will go straight HDMI for the DVD player. Which DVD players are you considering?

When I plug my DVI LCD monitor from my computer into my Motorola cable box DVI, I get a second or two of picture, then a message that the connection is not HDCP compliant and the screen goes black.

Content providers do not want you to be able to burn an exact copy of the data.

Whether a component signal is 480i or 1080i, it is still essentially analog, right? So you can't burn an exact digital duplicate using components. So I don't think they'll care about "down rezzing" component outputs.

That being said, I don't see an obvious visual difference between component and HDMI. I use HDMI because I bought the cables, know what I mean?

Originally posted by ppsmith
I just had a 50WE655 delivered and I am on the road so am anxious to play with it and I was doing my reading and the AVIA disk is a common mention. Does this come with the TV or do I need to purchase this disk. If I need to purchase can you identify the proper source and expected cost.

Avia does not come with the TV. Amazon.com has it for about $37.

Originally posted by G.B.
deh, Here is some popular threads they have on 1080I vs 720 P in the General topics http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?threadid=174228&perpage=20&pagenumber=3

Thanks man. I didn't see those yet.

Don

Don, this is the ref. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?threadid=323602&referrerid=7446301
for the Popular Threads. They have lots of good stories of what we are all trying to do ....Set up our sets & get the best tips on everything...

This is a great thread! After reading the posts, and UMR's GWIII tweak thread, I finally jumped into the SM. So far, the only thing I have done is to tweak Axis from 2 to 0 on the 1080i input to get rid of the red push (480p Axis value was already at 0). I like the improvement, but I was curious: what exactly does Axis stand for? Similarly, has anyone decoded all of the SM entries (i.e. their definition and function)? UMR's GWIII tweak thread does a pretty nice job of explaining the lion's share.

pilotbiffster

Originally posted by imagr
Content providers do not want you to be able to burn an exact copy of the data. What the content providers want to do is sell you more of their intellectual property and prevent anyone but them from making money on their property (piracy).

Example: While today you may be able to record a hi-def HBO movie to your HD DirecTV tivo and watch it later, they do not want you to be able to burn a DVD quality version of that and watch it later at your friend's house (or even sell to your friend). The content provide wants to sell you and your frient the DVD, AND they want both of you to subscribe to HBO. Content providers, my employer included, want to limit your options as much as possible while still allowing "fair use" in order to maximize sales potential.Whether a component signal is 480i or 1080i, it is still essentially analog, right? So you can't burn an exact digital duplicate using components. So I don't think they'll care about "down rezzing" component outputs. Any content you receive which is capable of being turned into a reasonable PQ DVD or retransmitted is going to be protectd in future. This is best controlled digitally, hence the reduction, and future elimination of protected content in HD via analog (component) connections. Sure, you can get equipment now that does not enforce protection, but your Tivos and cable STBs can be patched remotely and manufacturers not towing the line will be sued or forced out of the market with legislation.

Originally posted by laynrubr
Thanks Domer67. Looks like I will stick with component then. Definately will go straight HDMI for the DVD player. Which DVD players are you considering?

Well a lot of people seem to be liking Sony's DVP-NS975V. Haven't seen it myself in any stores yet.

http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/eCS/Store/en/-/USD/SY_DisplayProductInformation-Start?ProductSKU=DVPNS975V&Dept=hav&CategoryName=hav_DVD_DVDPlayers

Originally posted by domer67
[B]Well a lot of people seem to be liking Sony's DVP-NS975V. Haven't seen it myself in any stores yet.


I just received my Sony DVP-NS975V. It does a magnificent job hooked up to my new 55 inch XS955. Video upconversion works great, as expected. What it is really good at is audio. Highly recommended.

73Ragtop. I own a 60xs955 and am wondering if you have done any comparisons to other dvd players. I also am thinking of getting the Sony 975 but would love an opinion of someone that has pretty much the same set as mine so I could get a better idea of the improvement. If you could, would you please give me as much impressions as possible. Thanks

Nate :)

I am using a samsung HD941 via HDMI, and PQ is spectacular! It seems to share same Chassis like sony with additional dvd audio, DCDI

Originally posted by njv16
73Ragtop. I own a 60xs955 and am wondering if you have done any comparisons to other dvd players. I also am thinking of getting the Sony 975 but would love an opinion of someone that has pretty much the same set as mine so I could get a better idea of the improvement. If you could, would you please give me as much impressions as possible. Thanks

Nate :)

The problem is that I've only had the 55XS955 for two weeks, so the only comparison I can give you is the DVD player I used to watch two movies on it before I got the Sony 975 last week. That means much of what I'm telling you could be the TV rather than the DVD player. Or it could be the DVD player. But my hunch is that it is the interaction of the Sony TV with the Sony DVD, which to my eyes is spectacular. Until last Friday, I had no source for HD programming. I had a nice Winegard antenna and Channel Master 7777 preamp installed, and this TV boggles my mind with its OTA performance ... WAY better than any picture seen at the display of the XS at Sears, Best Buy, Circuit City, Ultimate Electronics or Tweeter, all of which I previewed the set at. I mention this to give you a reference as to the picture quality obtained by the XS/975 combo. While perhaps not as sharp as a HD television broadcast of say, a football game, it is possible by using one of the Cinema modes on the 975 to achieve a picture that is uniformly beautiful and filmlike, something I never expected from a LCD microdisplay.

What I can absolutely tell you about the Sony 975 is that it is an incredible improvement as far as audio goes. My speaker system is all Bose, with an M&K subwoofer and an Onkyo receiver. I'm in heaven. I have two sons, one 19 and one 26. Both are audio and video freaks, and both had the same reaction to this setup. They literally couldn't move. They were transfixed. Their mouths were open wide (this must be the common "jaw-dropping" phenomenon I've heard about). There are three music videos included on one of the Austin Powers DVDs. The one called "American Woman" by Lenny Kravitz will blow your mind with this combo. There may be better sound and music in this world, but the combination I hit upon is plenty good enough for me.

By the way, my previous setup was an analog Sony XBR CRT big screen with the same Onkyo receiver. Don't be afraid of this tv because it's an LCD rear projection. It's gorgeous. Just don't watch analog SD on it ... it will make you nauseous. Get digital channels OTA with an antenna. And by the way, the digital optical out on the back of the XS does pass Dolby 5.1 to the receiver. There's been a debate about that on this forum. I watched NYPD Blue through the TV's ATSC tuner, and there are obviously discrete sounds going to all 5 speakers.

Anyway, I digress. I think you'll be very happy with the Sony 975. It's chump change compared to what we've already paid for the TV's; so give it a try. Let me know how you like it. Be advised the manual is 97 pages long ... almost as long as the TV's manual. It is - shall we say - very full-featured.

Eddie;)

Originally posted by njv16
73Ragtop. I own a 60xs955 and am wondering if you have done any comparisons to other dvd players. I also am thinking of getting the Sony 975 but would love an opinion of someone that has pretty much the same set as mine so I could get a better idea of the improvement. If you could, would you please give me as much impressions as possible. Thanks

Nate :)

I own the 55XS and the Sony 975 DVD player.... and will testify to its magnificent performance. I couldn't be happier. Another nice feature of this DVD player is that it allows you to adjust audio delay so you can manually sync video to audio if need be.... up to 100 ms I believe.

I have read about all the tweaks to the WF that people have made. Are any of these specific to addressing the black levels, or is the black enhanced only through making all the changes? I love everything about this set with the exception of the bluish gray black levels. Can the SM changes help?

WSorensen--

Hello,

I have started to tweak some of the settings on my KDF42WE655, and was thinking I would like to buy a copy of the service manual.

Is there a link I can order online, or a phone# I need to call to get one? (I could not find the manual on the 'Sony Parts' site.)

Also, once I buy the manual, how difficult has it been for people to get the "service data" .pdf from Sony? (since I read that you really need both..."

Thanks!

bNocturnal

Originally posted by mklaessy
So you going to give the tweaks a shot then? I'm looking forward to hearing how the XS fares with these and seeing some XS users settings. Seems like most of the people who've tried out the UMR tweaks have been WF/WE owners. Let us know how it turns out.
Well, our 55xs955 is still in its box (for 11 days!), but we hope to have a new TV stand by this weekend. After some more auditioning over the weekend (one more look at the Mits 52725), we decided that the 55xs955 will work out better for us.

On that note, I went ahead and ordered the Service Manual from Sony for the 55xs955. I figure the worse case scenario is we return the 55xs955 and I put the Service Manual up on eBay. But I have a feeling that the 55xs955 will work out just fine.

Michael

:eek:

MICHAEL!!! Get that TV out of its box now! You are suffocating it!

;)

I'm just jealous... I'm "patiently" waiting for the 60XS955 that I special ordered to arrive. Actually, I'm somewhat hoping that it comes in with perfect timing to be delivered to our new house. We are moving in a week and a half.

Originally posted by wsorensen
Are any of these specific to addressing the black levels, or is the black enhanced only through making all the changes?
WSorensen--

From an old GWIII Tweak post:

The service menu items for black enhancement/correction are: UGAM(#20), UDCT(#24), UAPD(#28), and UDCI(#35) in category DCP-USER.

UGAM appears to change the gamma curve (go figure). I haven't messed with UDCT or UAPD, so I'm not sure what they do nor what the abbreviations stand for. Increasing UDCI(#35) changes DCIE(#36), DAUT(#36), and DGAI(#37). This appears to increase the contrast in dark scenes, but doesn't appear to affect bright scenes very much. I'm guessing that DCIE stands for Dynamic Contrast Enhance, and DGAI stands for Dynamic Gain. This would explain why the contrast changes very based on the light picture. If anyone out there has a more correct understanding of these settings, please chime in. Also, does anyone know if there any correlation between these user settings and the additional Dynamic Gamma settings available on the XBR.

Originally posted by Michael Mohrmann
I went ahead and ordered the Service Manual from Sony for the 55xs955

Hey Michael,

Sorry to be a pest, but where do you order the service manual? I think I'd be more comfortable going into service menu of my 60XS with that in hand, perhaps.

Also, where do we stand with the HDMI signal path. Do you believe it is converted to analog and back? If so, so much for the so called digital signal path of the "WEGA engine".

PS Look inside the box already. Dude, at least put your hands on the remote.;)

Originally posted by imagr
Sorry to be a pest, but where do you order the service manual? I think I'd be more comfortable going into service menu of my 60XS with that in hand, perhaps.

Also, where do we stand with the HDMI signal path. Do you believe it is converted to analog and back? If so, so much for the so called digital signal path of the "WEGA engine".

PS Look inside the box already. Dude, at least put your hands on the remote.;)
Here's the post that mentions the Service Manual contact information:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4734450#post4734450

As far as the HDMI signal path is concerned, those most familiar with Sony LCD RPTVs seem to indicate that is does go through a D->A->D conversion. With regards to the xs955 specifically, I wonder if Sony would ever admit the truth?

The box will get opened once we find a stand. The store we purchased the TV from will refund our money if the box is unopened within 30 days. Once the box is opened, then you get either an exchange or store credit, which would be a problem because they don't have anything else we would want at this time.

Anyway, if we don't find the stand in the next week or so, the TV will go back for a full refund, and we will either go with a plasma online or skip this for another year. As much as we want to get excited with our first HDTV, we have grown tired of the search and the perpetual problems (mostly related to our room's layout).

Michael

On the KDF-55/60XS955 each HDMI feeds its own Silicon Image PanelLink Receiver (SII9993CTG100). The receiver is capable of both digital and analog output but Sony has chosen to output in analog mode (Pb Y Cr). These component outputs are then fed to a single Fairchild Semiconductor video buffer (FMS6418AX16X). This part acts as both a multiplexor to select between the two HDMI inputs and as a selectable SD/HD video filter. This output then feeds to an ASIC that acts as a switch for all of the inputs (not sure what else it may do). From there a component output feeds the rest of the processing logic.

From an engineering point of view it seems they kept costs down by going D->A on the HDMI inputs. I'm only speculating but my guess is that this allowed them to utilize components that were already available rather than creating new ASICs to handle the digital inputs. Staying in the digital realm would have added a significant number of pins to each component and connectors.

I don't know that I would let this D->A conversion play a significant role in my product selection given the current state of the technology. There are many other variables from original content to display that will have a much greater impact on picture quality.

Tim

Pioletbiffster, Yes, if you change one all three will change, for example UGAM. GWIII SM Excel Worksheet . Vidkid has done a lot of work in this area. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?threadid=362324.He gives some explanation if he figured it out. keep in mined sometimes only the designer know what everything does.

Another takes you to it. http://www2.handheldgames.com/gwIII.xls

Pioletbiffster, another location for the settings you are talking about shows up in the DCP-AVP . It is on the XBR & WE. They show a low ,med , high, in the service menu manual. I think that is for low = Pro, med= Standard, but have not checked it out yet. In the XBR , UGAM changes for low, med, high, when you make the gamma changes in the extended menu. The same happens when you do Vivid = 10 , Standard = 8 ,Pro = 0 just like the WE. Thats on your UGAM # 20 but when you change one all 20,21.22,23,24,25, change to the same number..

GB,
Does the service manual do a pretty good job of explaining all the Service menu options and functions? I'd don't mind purchasing one, if it has some good info in it.

pilotbiffster

Originally posted by Tim Sloper
On the KDF-55/60XS955 each HDMI feeds its own Silicon Image PanelLink Receiver (SII9993CTG100). The receiver is capable of both digital and analog output but Sony has chosen to output in analog mode (Pb Y Cr). ............

I don't know that I would let this D->A conversion play a significant role in my product selection given the current state of the technology. There are many other variables from original content to display that will have a much greater impact on picture quality.

Tim

I chose the KDF-60XS955 (I have one on order) over the Samsung HLP5685W mostly based on favoring the higher digital resolution in the Sony LCD set. I was completely unaware that it was a analog set. I was planning to eventually go to a HTPC with an output matching the display but there is no point to that with analog processing.

I would assume that the cable card path also is converted to analog.

(':(') Buyers Remorse??

Ed

Originally posted by bnocturnal
Hello,
Is there a link I can order online, or a phone# I need to call to get one? (I could not find the manual on the 'Sony Parts' site.)

Also, once I buy the manual, how difficult has it been for people to get the "service data" .pdf from Sony? (since I read that you really need both..."


The part number is 996597402. I ordered it and was disappointed. Unless you plan on taking your TV apart, troubleshooting, and fixing problems, it is a waste of $25. It is mostly consists of 6 or 7 separate poster-sized schematics, and a thin manual half of which is the parts list, the rest shows how to take the TV apart and a VERY short section on the service menu. The SM section has not much more than what is here on the forum: how to get in, how to navigate, how to change data, but no explanations of all the parameters. It does tell where to get the service data (a person you have to email apparently), but it wasn't clear to me whether or not they give that information to just anyone and if it contains all of the SM parameter information.

Originally posted by barnabas
The part number is 996597402. I ordered it and was disappointed. Unless you plan on taking your TV apart, troubleshooting, and fixing problems, it is a waste of $25. It is mostly consists of 6 or 7 separate poster-sized schematics, and a thin manual half of which is the parts list, the rest shows how to take the TV apart and a VERY short section on the service menu. The SM section has not much more than what is here on the forum: how to get in, how to navigate, how to change data, but no explanations of all the parameters. It does tell where to get the service data (a person you have to email apparently), but it wasn't clear to me whether or not they give that information to just anyone and if it contains all of the SM parameter information.

Sony will provide the full service data to anyone who requests it. It does not, however, explain what the individual service data items do. There is a description column for this, but it is blank on all 400+ pages of service data.

Originally posted by fretbored03
Sony will provide the full service data to anyone who requests it. It does not, however, explain what the individual service data items do. There is a description column for this, but it is blank on all 400+ pages of service data.

Darn... I just ordered the manual for my 42WE655 this morning.

Oh well. I'm at least a little bit interested in seeing the schematics. :)

Fretbored03 - could you send me the email of the person at sony, or the .PDF file with the data set? I'll have the manual in '5-8 business days' per the parts center, but it would be nice to be able to look over the data before then...

Thanks,

Dave

Originally posted by Tim Sloper
On the KDF-55/60XS955 each HDMI feeds its own Silicon Image PanelLink Receiver (SII9993CTG100). The receiver is capable of both digital and analog output but Sony has chosen to output in analog mode (Pb Y Cr). These component outputs are then fed ...Tim

Not surprising then that we're not seeing much difference between HDMI and component inputs. Another reason not to buy an expensive HDMI cable.

Originally posted by bnocturnal
Hello,

I have started to tweak some of the settings on my KDF42WE655, and was thinking I would like to buy a copy of the service manual.

Is there a link I can order online, or a phone# I need to call to get one? (I could not find the manual on the 'Sony Parts' site.)

Also, once I buy the manual, how difficult has it been for people to get the "service data" .pdf from Sony? (since I read that you really need both..."

Thanks!

bNocturnal

I too would like to get a copy of the service manual. Is it only available in print form? or can we get it in pdf form? and if it's available in pdf, would someone in the season/spirit of giving post it online?

djw99, et al:

It's not available in PDF - Sony sells the hard copy service manual for $24.95 + shipping + tax (if applicable). Go to the Sony web site and call the parts toll free number.

Originally posted by Tim Sloper
On the KDF-55/60XS955 each HDMI feeds its own Silicon Image PanelLink Receiver (SII9993CTG100). The receiver is capable of both digital and analog output but Sony has chosen to output in analog mode (Pb Y Cr). ...

Tim

Here's the pdf (http://www.siimage.com/documents/SiI-PB-9993.pdf) for the PanelLink.

Painful.

You can order the user adjusted service menu data here: http://www.fixyourowntv.com/orderpage.html For my KDF55WF655 it was 7 pages and the cost was $7.00

Originally posted by jeadams
You can order the user adjusted service menu data here: http://www.fixyourowntv.com/orderpage.html For my KDF55WF655 it was 8 pages and the cost was $7.00

Interesting... Have you done this? What sort of information are you buying? Is it an explanation for the various items in the service menu? I'm wondering what information they're selling. It may be a very good investment if it, indeed, explains the service menu entries.

pioletbiffster, I PM you with some info......

The data includes all user adjusted service menu items. It lists the category, #, item, condition, factory setting, and minimum and maximum value for each setting. It seemed like a pretty good price as opposed to buying the whole manual.

I'm a newbe when it comes to tweaking, but the pro mode is way to soft and almost looks out of focus after making these tweaks. Listed below is everything I've done so far.

TV - 42WE655

Using Pro mode for all inputs.
Noise Reduction is off.
Mild Mode is off.

Category DCP-ADJ1

RDRV 131
GDRV 140
BDRV 102
RCUT 255
GCUT 242
BCUT 255

Category DCP-ADJ2

SHOF 15

Category MID-5

MVLC 1
MHLC 1
MVLS 0
MVFM 4
MHFM 4

DCP - User (something like that)

Axis - from 2 to 0 for HD only

When I applied these settings in pro, which I reset before I started, they looked ok in 720p and 1080i, but for all other settings and inputs such as PS2 (s-video) and Xbox (480p component) and cable TV the picture was very blurred and looked out of focus. When I applied these same settings to standard, and Vivid the picture was 100% improved. The picture was more focused and a lot brighter, just an overall better picture for all settings. I did not adjust the power saving settings, which I was unable to find. Standard mode with the settings above look the best, the picture was bright, clear, 720p and 1080i look fonaminal. Vivid was a little to bright and some pixilation was noticeable, but for gaming looked the best I've not tried 480p for Xbox as I don't have the DVD kit to play the THX optimizer, but will be looking into this. If anyone has an Xbox just put in a game and set the TV to pro and you will see what I'm talking about. I will try and put up some pic’s later. I did not adjust Picture or Brightness in the service menu because they just jump back in place and their adjustable in the main menu.

My settings are below

You can increase both Picture and Brightness, but I did start noticing imperfections and pixilation with this set any higher.

Picture - 50
Brightness - 30
Color - around default, I did not notice any color saturation from this setting during the THX optimizer on AOTC DVD.
Hue - same as default
Sharpness - after making changes in the service menu I noticed no difference when adjusting this.

A big thanks to everyone who has shared input on this, I would have not even known where to start. I hope this helps anyone who might of had some questions about any of these settings. I hope I've listed enough information on all my settings, if not I will be happy to respond to any questions and once again I will try to get some pic’s up of each mode.

What exactly does Axis change?

Originally posted by Terrll23
What exactly does Axis change?

Changing Axis changes the color decoder values. A default AXIS value of 2 over emphasizes red (red push). Changing AXIS to 0 in turn changes the values of the the color decoder settings immediately below the AXIS item in the DCP-USER category. I changed AXIS to 0 on all my inputs, and I think the picture is much more lifelike. When you have red push, you have to decrease picture saturation below optimum to make people's faces appear realistic.

pb.

Originally posted by jbegosh
I'm a newbe when it comes to tweaking, but the pro mode is way to soft and almost looks out of focus after making these tweaks. Listed below is everything I've done so far.

TV - 42WE655

Using Pro mode for all inputs.
Noise Reduction is off.
Mild Mode is off.

Category DCP-ADJ1

RDRV 131
GDRV 140
BDRV 102
RCUT 255
GCUT 242
BCUT 255

Category DCP-ADJ2

SHOF 15

Category MID-5

MVLC 1
MHLC 1
MVLS 0
MVFM 4
MHFM 4

DCP - User (something like that)

Axis - from 2 to 0 for HD only

When I applied these settings in pro, which I reset before I started, they looked ok in 720p and 1080i, but for all other settings and inputs such as PS2 (s-video) and Xbox (480p component) and cable TV the picture was very blurred and looked out of focus. When I applied these same settings to standard, and Vivid the picture was 100% improved. The picture was more focused and a lot brighter, just an overall better picture for all settings. I did not adjust the power saving settings, which I was unable to find. Standard mode with the settings above look the best, the picture was bright, clear, 720p and 1080i look fonaminal. Vivid was a little to bright and some pixilation was noticeable, but for gaming looked the best I've not tried 480p for Xbox as I don't have the DVD kit to play the THX optimizer, but will be looking into this. If anyone has an Xbox just put in a game and set the TV to pro and you will see what I'm talking about. I will try and put up some pic’s later. I did not adjust Picture or Brightness in the service menu because they just jump back in place and their adjustable in the main menu.

My settings are below

You can increase both Picture and Brightness, but I did start noticing imperfections and pixilation with this set any higher.

Picture - 50
Brightness - 30
Color - around default, I did not notice any color saturation from this setting during the THX optimizer on AOTC DVD.
Hue - same as default
Sharpness - after making changes in the service menu I noticed no difference when adjusting this.

A big thanks to everyone who has shared input on this, I would have not even known where to start. I hope this helps anyone who might of had some questions about any of these settings. I hope I've listed enough information on all my settings, if not I will be happy to respond to any questions and once again I will try to get some pic’s up of each mode.

I also noticed these settings were not idea for PS2, but they seemed ok to me if I increased the sharpness. I will have to try out your settings and see how things look. Power Saving mode is only available on the WF and XS models so that is why you do not see that setting on your WE.

Originally posted by pilotbiffster
Changing Axis changes the color decoder values. A default AXIS value of 2 over emphasizes red (red push). Changing AXIS to 0 in turn changes the values of the the color decoder settings immediately below the AXIS item in the DCP-USER category. I changed AXIS to 0 on all my inputs, and I think the picture is much more lifelike. When you have red push, you have to decrease picture saturation below optimum to make people's faces appear realistic.

pb.

Thanks for the info. That just solved my main issue that I have have with my 55wf.

Hello all - great forum. KDF-42WE655 owner here. My first post. Keep in mind that when you change AXIS to zero to correct red push, you should also either perform a gray-scale/white-balance calibration OR at least set color temperature to WARM to get the background closer to 65k. You should notice a more natural color balance and more equal saturation. Before I set temp=warm, setting axis=0 caused a slight green haze in certain scenes, and flesh tones still weren't quite right.


Originally posted by Terrll23
Thanks for the info. That just solved my main issue that I have have with my 55wf.

Can I just pay someone to come out and do this to my set? It seems very confusing

Originally posted by HD_OCD
Hello all - great forum. KDF-42WE655 owner here. My first post. Keep in mind that when you change AXIS to zero to correct red push, you should also either perform a gray-scale/white-balance calibration OR at least set color temperature to WARM to get the background closer to 65k.

OCD -- didn't know there was any mode other than warm :) . But seriously, when I was initially experimenting with axis, I was watching some HDNET show that had some woman with a pink sweater on. When I incremented axis down to 0 and then back up to 2, I could see that an axis setting of 2 made her sweater appear flourescent pink. Setting axis back to 0 made things look "right".

Pilot,

I completely agree. Setting AXIS to 0 equals huge improvement. I was just noting that to really get the best results, also set temp=warm (I think neutral is the default). This gets the background closer to correct. AXIS=0 combined with TEMP=WARM resulted in balanced, evenly saturated colors on my set - *especially* on HD via component from my Mot 6412 DVR. The only thing better than temp=warm is to actually do the cal that UMR describes (or trying his values, which might be closer than warm).

Another tip: do NOT watch analog SD channels through the Mot 6412 boxes - use the Sony tuner instead, the Mot DVR analog channels are terrible, Sony is quite good, and it is easier to tweak this input for optimal analog/SD viewing without impacting your other settings (IMO).

OCD



Originally posted by pilotbiffster
OCD -- didn't know there was any mode other than warm :) . But seriously, when I was initially experimenting with axis, I was watching some HDNET show that had some woman with a pink sweater on. When I incremented axis down to 0 and then back up to 2, I could see that an axis setting of 2 made her sweater appear flourescent pink. Setting axis back to 0 made things look "right".

Ok guys, I just picked up my XS955 last night. I am going to run DVE this weekend and see how good I can get it looking that way. What other tweaks should I start with? Does anyone have a link to the old thread with instructions for tweaks? I would like to make the Axis change, but I didn't know if there were other things that went along with that. The red push is sort of tough to deal with, and I want this to look the best it possibly can. Any help, or a link would be greatly appreciated.

Interesting. I just replaced a 42WE655 with a 55WF655. The analog and digital SD from my Moto 6200 and 6214 were very good on the 42 but considerable worse on the new 55. I had kind of expected them to be comparable. The OTA digital SD is way better than the Moto 6214 over component. I'll have to try going direct into the TV with the cable to see how the Sony does with the SD.

Originally posted by HD_OCD

Another tip: do NOT watch analog SD channels through the Mot 6412 boxes - use the Sony tuner instead, the Mot DVR analog channels are terrible, Sony is quite good, and it is easier to tweak this input for optimal analog/SD viewing without impacting your other settings (IMO).

OCD

Originally posted by the crane
Ok guys, I just picked up my XS955 last night. I am going to run DVE this weekend and see how good I can get it looking that way. What other tweaks should I start with? Does anyone have a link to the old thread with instructions for tweaks? I would like to make the Axis change, but I didn't know if there were other things that went along with that. The red push is sort of tough to deal with, and I want this to look the best it possibly can. Any help, or a link would be greatly appreciated.

Go to the popular threads sticky, and reference the "UMR does the GWIII" thread. The only change is that you have to hit the jump button on the remote twice once you're in the service menu. If you want to change Axis (I recommend it), you'll need to do it for each input and each scan rate. First thing I'd do in the service menu is write down all the settings so you can get back to them if you need to. I didn't mess with the gray scale because I don't have a light meter to accurately change it.

pb.

Originally posted by nixima
I also noticed these settings were not idea for PS2, but they seemed ok to me if I increased the sharpness. I will have to try out your settings and see how things look. Power Saving mode is only available on the WF and XS models so that is why you do not see that setting on your WE.

Nixima, I've adjusted sharpness afterwards and have noticed little difference after the changes made in the service menu. Pro mode is also a lot darker. I've had several people over that have noticed this difference and have all agreed that it looks better. I'm sure you can make a bunch of changes to pro to get it to look like the standard setting, but why go through the hassle.

pilotbiffster, good explanation on axis, which does make a huge difference in correcting red push.

Could someone give me the default settings for input 7 HDMI I think I may have accidently entered a wrong value before writing down the default values: all 27 values in mid 5 and pcdadj2 shof in pro mode. Thanks

I just got my KDF-50WE655 set up yesterday and I'm looking for the best settings for a non-HD Phillips Sat receiver connected via s-video. The picture is a bit fuzzy on the Sat signal, but excellent on the DVD input via HDMI.

I've seen Avia, THX & DVE mentioned. What exactly are these? Config DVD's?

I'm a A/V newbie and appreciate any help provided.

First, let me say that I'm not an expert on this topic and I just want to contribute what I've observed. I may be 100% wrong and it would be cool if someone would correct me.

I've been playing with DCP-USER - AXIS a little bit last night. It seems each number in AXIS has certain values for RYB, RYR, GRB and GYR.

RYB (Red level for color decoder)
RYR (Red hue for color decoder)
GYB (Green level for color decoder)
GYR (Green hue for color decoder)

I've been trying to correct the Red and Green through RYB, RYR, GRB, GYR with the AVIA color bars on 480i component input and was able to get it pretty close to red bars showing all red and green bars showing all green, looking through the color filters of course.

Before I tweaked RYB, RYR, GRB and GYR, the red and green was closer to desired setting when at AXIS=0. AXIS=2 had too much green I believe.

I then tweaked RYB, RYR, GRB and GYR using the red bars and green bars while at AXIS=0.

After saving the settings, I then tried to change AXIS to 4 and RYB, RYR, GRB and GYR values changed. While on AXIS=4, I duplicated the RYB, RYR, GRB and GYR values to be the same as in AXIS=0 and it had the same effect.

In theory, when you set AXIS to be the same on all inputs, all inputs would have the same red and green levels. (I'm still trying to get a HDMI upconverting dvd player to compare it with HDTivo).

If certain inputs have more green or red because of the source, this is where you can apply a different AXIS number and modify RYB, RYR, GRB and GYR values.

Picked up my 55WF655 a few weeks ago, and was running through the AVIA DVD last night. I was in standard mode, doing the basic calibration tweaks, but could not get Sharpness to affect any change, no matter what the setting. The Avia tutorial states color saturatio needs to be turned all the way down, before attempting any change in Sharpness, so I turned the Color to minimum, and still could not see any difference in the test pattern whenadjusting the Sharpness level. I noticed some on this board have dialed down the Sharpness level, what have you based this change on? As always, great info here, and Merry Christmas, everyone!

Merry Christmas!

What you're looking for with the Sharpness control, is what's called "ringing". You'll have to be close to the screen to see it, like within 5 feet. The best way to adjust Sharp. is to run it all the way up, and then bring it back down gradually, you'll want to stop when the very edges of black lines on a gray background no longer seem to be "highlighted" or have any kind of "halo" to them. It's easier to spot on vertical lines than horizontal. I calibrated my WF last night and ended-up with a value of 10-11 for all inputs.

Dan

Wow! 10-11 on all inputs, or just on the Sharpness? Most of my other ones weren't that far off, even while peering through the filters. And were you in Normal mode, Pro, or Vivid when you did the calibration? Thanks!

I believe he meant 10-11 for the sharpness setting on all inputs (video 1, video 2...)

Originally posted by jmdaniel
Wow! 10-11 on all inputs, or just on the Sharpness? Most of my other ones weren't that far off, even while peering through the filters. And were you in Normal mode, Pro, or Vivid when you did the calibration? Thanks!

This is close for Sharpness 10 - 11 . For the larger screens you might add 3-5 more , 16-18 like they do for the factory settings. Pro on small screens they factory default is 31, bigger they make it 36. The bigger the picture the softer do to optic's of projection.

Just picked up my 60xs955. I am interested in doing some tweaking. Should I follow the umr pdf? Does it work well with this TV?


Thank You

Brian

DanFrancis and I have discussed this a little bit recently, and shortly after the first of the year we are going to go through my XS and see what tweaks work well. He is ISF certified and has all of the testing equipment, so I am hoping we can get quite a bit figured out.

I will be happy to post the results once we are finished.

Good!!!!

Guys,

Once I finish calibrating "the crane" I'll be able to confirm/refute what works and what doesn't for these settings. I will say this right now: for grayscale adjustment, DO NOT JUST ENTER VALUES THAT WORK FOR SOMEONE ELSE, I found my BIAS and GAIN settings to be rather different than the UMR pdf. But you must also know that I use very different equipment: I have a proper color analyzer, a DVI test-pattern generator, and I do this for a living- so I don't calibrate to 6500K, I calibrate to D65 (there's a distinct difference).

I'll be happy to share User Menu settings that I find to be the most accurate, but I will not share any Service menu level values (ISF policy). So I'll be able to get 'yall close- but not perfect for OOTB settings. The major reason that I don't recommend following someone else's settings is that there's variation from set to set, and bulb to bulb- and that can make a major difference at the SM level, even if it isn't "visible" on test-patterns or moving video.

These sets are VERY GOOD!! see my last post in the GWIV owner's thread for some of my results from my personal calibration (which ended at 3:30 AM Christmas morning).

Dan

I had my 60XS professionally calibrated. If someone tells me how to get into the service menu and what they want posted I will gladly do it.

How much does it cost to get Calibrated? Is that covered under extended warranties?

Not covered under extended warranty.

Check out http://www.imagingscience.com/isf-trained.cfm to find a ISF tech in your area.

Originally posted by billatlakegeorge
I had my 60XS professionally calibrated. If someone tells me how to get into the service menu and what they want posted I will gladly do it.

As a start, what did they set for the following regular user-menu settings?

Mode - ?
Picture - ?
Brightness - ?
Color - ?
Hue - ?
Sharpness - ?
Color Temp - ?
Noise Reduction - ?
Mild Mode - ?
Black Corrector - ?
Gamma Corrector - ?
Power Saving - ?

These are all found just by navigating your normal video settings on your TV's menu. Be sure to also let us know what video input you are taking these values from (video input # and what is hooked up to it - cable receiver, DVD player, etc.) Thanks. This should be helpful to compare to the settings we've all been coming up with on our own using Avia, DVE, etc.

Originally posted by DanFrancis
Guys,

Once I finish calibrating "the crane" I'll be able to confirm/refute what works and what doesn't for these settings. I will say this right now: for grayscale adjustment, DO NOT JUST ENTER VALUES THAT WORK FOR SOMEONE ELSE, I found my BIAS and GAIN settings to be rather different than the UMR pdf. But you must also know that I use very different equipment: I have a proper color analyzer, a DVI test-pattern generator, and I do this for a living- so I don't calibrate to 6500K, I calibrate to D65 (there's a distinct difference). ...

Your post implies I used inferior equipment to calibrate my set. I don't believe it is as big an issue as you claim. However, I did use a Philips PM5639 color analyzer, Sencore signal generator and a LightSpex spectroradiometer that is referenced to national standards. Bill Cushman also provided me a little guidance at the time as well. I am not a professional at this, but I doubt the results could be much better. I have also assisted several nationally known ISF calibrators in their efforts with this TV.

I do not recommend that people use my settings blindly. However, professional calibration is not a necessity for a high quality picture if you are willing to put in the effort.

Originally posted by DanFrancis
I will say this right now: for grayscale adjustment, DO NOT JUST ENTER VALUES THAT WORK FOR SOMEONE ELSE, I found my BIAS and GAIN settings to be rather different than the UMR pdf.
Dan,

This is a good bit of information to know. I had planned on using UMR's information to tweak the service menu on our 55XS955, but it appears that there may be enough differences between the GWIV and the GWII/GWIII to wait and see if this pattern holds.

Since UMR won't be tweaking a GWIV and you can't post your service menu suggestions here, we may look into having our 55XS955 professionally calibrated.

Do you believe that the ISF calibration will get better with the GWIV once enough of them have been worked on, or do you think that near optimal results can be obtained now?

Michael

Sorry...long time no post....been busy with work and Christmas stuff.

Here's my experience with the upconversion from the Sony DVP-NS975V as well as other observations.

I had my 60XS9550 hooked up with both VOOM (HD component) and DISH (SD S-Video) and a cheap Toshiba progressive scan DVD player with S-Video connection (can't remember the model).

I picked up the Sony DVP-NS975V and was offered a Monster HDMI-to-HDMI cable for $119. After I told the saleman at Good Guys he was insane, he offered me a 10% discount on the cable. Needless to say I picked up my new DVD player and walked out the door. I picked up a generic gold-plated cable for well under $20 from a Web site that just happened to have it's warehouse located in the city where I live -- saved the shipping charge by driving ten minutes. Plugged the cable into video 7 on the TV and used the 5.1 coax out on the DVD player for audio to my Harmon-Kardon 525 with Axiom Audio speakers. I went into the Sony DVP-NS975V menus and took the thing off automatic and set the output to 1080 fixed. Wow. Insanely terrific picture and killer surround sound. Is the upconverted picture as good as the true 1080 I get while watching VOOM? No. Not quite as bright and sharp. But, still waaaaaay better than what I had going before.

I also replaced the component connection from my VOOM box with a DVI-to-HDMI gold-plated cable from the same outfit. The 1080 picture is slightly better than with component. When VOOM comes out with their new box this spring, it should have HDMI out and I'll get another cable.

* Is the XS609550 a great TV for the money? Yes.
* Is the Sony DVP-NS975V is great upconverter for the money? Yes.
* Is upconversion as good as true 1080? No, not quite.
* Does the Sony DVP-NS975V have superb sound? Yes.
* Are digital connections (DVI or HDMI) better than component (analog)? Yes, but difference is not huge.
* Do generic DVI or HDMI cables deliver PQ as good as Monster? Yes.

In about 18 months the HD-DVD vs. blue-ray debate should have settled down and at that time I'll get a HD DVD player. But, for now, the Sony DVP-NS975V is a great bang-for-the-buck performer that will not disappoint.

Guys and gals I really need your help.
I screwedc up my Service Menu settings a bit. I wondering if someone could post the list of original settings for KDF-**WE655 service menu. I realize it is a big task but I know there are big geeks out there that already have Exell files with those original OOB settings. Thank you so much.

Originally posted by dkitsov
Guys and gals I really need your help.
I screwedc up my Service Menu settings a bit. I wondering if someone could post the list of original settings for KDF-**WE655 service menu. I realize it is a big task but I know there are big geeks out there that already have Exell files with those original OOB settings. Thank you so much.

Don't know if this will work for the WE but here is a sheet for the WF from a few pages earlier. Good luck.

Thanks I ve seen it and it just doesnt have the full list of settings. I meant the full list of original values. Like across all of the Items in all four sub menues in the service mode.

My 50WE655 arrived today, but I've been reading this forum for the last few months in anticipation <grin>

The set is beautiful - but the thing that's really bothering me are the blacks. Or rather, the lack of blacks. The blacks seem too "bright" and are just gray. This ends up making watching anything that's supposed to be DARK (space, night-time scenes, even the Balrog scene in LOTR) painful.

I've been searching through the forum, and had a look at the tweaks list from UMR - but there's nothing specifically for this, other than some black gamma service menu settings: UGAM, UDCT, UAPD, UDCI.

Has anyone played around with these with the goal of improving black performance? Please help - I'm sure this is a common issue with an LCD projection set, and I'd love to know how other owners have minimized this effect. I really, really don't want to have to return the set to the store!

Originally posted by aftab
My 50WE655 arrived today, but I've been reading this forum for the last few months in anticipation <grin>

The set is beautiful - but the thing that's really bothering me are the blacks. Or rather, the lack of blacks. The blacks seem too "bright" and are just gray. This ends up making watching anything that's supposed to be DARK (space, night-time scenes, even the Balrog scene in LOTR) painful.

I've been searching through the forum, and had a look at the tweaks list from UMR - but there's nothing specifically for this, other than some black gamma service menu settings: UGAM, UDCT, UAPD, UDCI.

Has anyone played around with these with the goal of improving black performance? Please help - I'm sure this is a common issue with an LCD projection set, and I'd love to know how other owners have minimized this effect. I really, really don't want to have to return the set to the store!

Actually, there is a tweak for this. You would need to add a neutral density filter to the light path. Look at the UMR Does GWII for information on how added a color correction filter to my GWII. I would use a 0.2 or 0.3 Kodak ND filter in your TV.

UMR,

I apologize if I gleaned the wrong impressions from the GWII/III threads, when I read your process there was no mention of ISF training or help in any manner- and when I read things like "used my own home-made tristimulus device" and DVD player/DVHS/etc for sources, as opposed to test-equipment from one of the major (reputable) manufacturers it casued scepticism in your results. I hope you understand- I don't doubt your skill, I was doubting the accuracy of the equipment- and in this game I think that's a valid concern, especially since so many in the forum ARE blindly following those values. We can warn people and make disclaimers 'till we're blue in the face, but if the average end-user reads what THEY paraphrase as; " push this series of buttons, enter these values, and you'll get a much better picture than factory..." they'll risk the damage to the set
(more a software thing) and forego having a professional do it.
It is obvious to me that you have both knowledge and experience with this, I would never make a statement to imply a lack thereof, and if my post did so- I am very sorry.
I hope this clears things up a little, and I really hope that there's no hard-feelings.

Dan

Originally posted by DanFrancis
UMR,

I apologize if I gleaned the wrong impressions from the GWII/III threads, when I read your process there was no mention of ISF training or help in any manner- and when I read things like "used my own home-made tristimulus device" and DVD player/DVHS/etc for sources, as opposed to test-equipment from one of the major (reputable) manufacturers it casued scepticism in your results. I hope you understand- I don't doubt your skill, I was doubting the accuracy of the equipment- and in this game I think that's a valid concern, especially since so many in the forum ARE blindly following those values. We can warn people and make disclaimers 'till we're blue in the face, but if the average end-user reads what THEY paraphrase as; " push this series of buttons, enter these values, and you'll get a much better picture than factory..." they'll risk the damage to the set
(more a software thing) and forego having a professional do it.
It is obvious to me that you have both knowledge and experience with this, I would never make a statement to imply a lack thereof, and if my post did so- I am very sorry.
I hope this clears things up a little, and I really hope that there's no hard-feelings.

Dan

No hard feelings. Blindly copying values is generally a suboptimal approach. There actually is mention of equpment and assitance from Bill in the GWII thread and pdf file. But, many others have missed it as well.

I do disagree with your implied premise that a home-made tristimulus device and optical comparator used with a persons equipment is of little value. Hitting D65 as close as possible is a great goal, but reducing the error in perceptible color space is certainly possible without expensive equipment. However, it is also highly possible that someone will make things worse without that equipment.

The success of the SMART system from Steve Smallcombe and various commercial optical comparators is a sign that equipment like a LightSpex is not a requirement to improving video accuracy. The greatest improvement is frequently from factory to something much closer. Say from 25 DE to 7 DE between 20 to 100 IRE is certainly possible with less sophisticated methods. The improvement from say 7 DE to 2 DE with something on the order of a LightSpex combined with a Philips color analyzer for improved low level accuracy is much more subtle.

Expensive equipment can also cause people to have less than stellar results. Many color analyzers are calibrated to a fixed set of light sources. The distribution of light across various frequencies from these sets is unlike most other sources. Unless, the color analyzer has been calibrated to these sets or you are using something like a LightSpex errors as large as 0.010 in x or y are certainly possible and will result in greater errors than a carefully employed homemade tristimulus device and simple optical comparator. True accuracy in the world of color is a very difficult thing to obtain unless you are very careful and have very expensive equipment.

Calibrating to a signal generator is great if you plan on watching test patterns for fun. It is also helpful in determining what the inputs should be set to for standard signal levels. However, most people watch their actual video sources. It is for this reason that I calibrate my equipment and recommend that others do so with patterns generated from their actual sources. The levels from actual sources can vary considerably.

UMR,

Thanks so much for your reply! I read the instructions you have in your GWII thread on how to install the filter. It seems like quite am involved process, requiring you to take out the mirror assembly etc. Frankly, given my history with these sort of things, I'd break something. Quickly.

I realize that installing the filter would be the optimal course of action, but is there anything else that would help, even a bit? I'm sure a lot of the more timorous amongst us would appreciate it!

Originally posted by aftab
...I realize that installing the filter would be the optimal course of action, but is there anything else that would help, even a bit? I'm sure a lot of the more timorous amongst us would appreciate it!

Sure there are more options. You could watch your TV through neutral density filters, sunglasses or increase the ambient light in your room.

P.S. - Had not seen timorous before. A great word for describing your problem.

I would like to add to what UMR stated above by saying that an optical comparator is very often more accurate for greyscale calibration at low IRE levels than electronic equipment.

I have the Colorfacts system and it just can't give me stable readings from 10IRE to 30IRE. I always end up using the comparator. Your eyes, it seems, are more accurate than you think when comparing. And sometimes, it's just faster to use the comparator.

Sean

The key point is that perceptual color-space is the key factor. If you can't perceive a color difference it does not matter if you can it does. That is the whole point of a comparator and the concept of "DE". Unless, you are color blind all the fancy equipment is just a way of doing this in an analytical manner instead of a heuristic method. This does not mean the heuristic approach is inherently flawed.

Originally posted by lap561
First, let me say that I'm not an expert on this topic and I just want to contribute what I've observed. I may be 100% wrong and it would be cool if someone would correct me.

I've been playing with DCP-USER - AXIS a little bit last night. It seems each number in AXIS has certain values for RYB, RYR, GRB and GYR.

RYB (Red level for color decoder)
RYR (Red hue for color decoder)
GYB (Green level for color decoder)
GYR (Green hue for color decoder)

I've been trying to correct the Red and Green through RYB, RYR, GRB, GYR with the AVIA color bars on 480i component input and was able to get it pretty close to red bars showing all red and green bars showing all green, looking through the color filters of course.

Before I tweaked RYB, RYR, GRB and GYR, the red and green was closer to desired setting when at AXIS=0. AXIS=2 had too much green I believe.

I then tweaked RYB, RYR, GRB and GYR using the red bars and green bars while at AXIS=0.


Lap,
I'm curious to know what RYB,RYR,GRB and GYR settings you finally settled on? I have changed axis to 0 and it does make the colors conform more closely to the to the AVIA color decoder than axis=2, but it's not perfect according to AVIA and DVE. I'm pretty happy with my settings right now, but would like to know the magnitude of the changes that you found necessary.

Sincerely,

pb.

Originally posted by umr
Your post implies I used inferior equipment to calibrate my set. I don't believe it is as big an issue as you claim. However, I did use a Philips PM5639 color analyzer, Sencore signal generator and a LightSpex spectroradiometer that is referenced to national standards. Bill Cushman also provided me a little guidance at the time as well. I am not a professional at this, but I doubt the results could be much better. I have also assisted several nationally known ISF calibrators in their efforts with this TV.

I do not recommend that people use my settings blindly. However, professional calibration is not a necessity for a high quality picture if you are willing to put in the effort.

Quite correct

ewolf 72, This is the first chance I had to get back to you

Mode - ? PRO
Picture - ? 46
Brightness - ? 31
Color - ? 31
Hue - ? 0
Sharpness - ? 31
Color Temp - ? Neutral
Noise Reduction - ? Off
Mild Mode - ? Off
Black Corrector - ? Off
Gamma Corrector - ? Off
Power Saving - ? Standard

These are the same for all sources. He did most of his adjusting in the service menu. He did say that the TV was very good right out of the box.

It is hard to say if I really notice a difference, but after spending $400 you want to think you do.

Originally posted by billatlakegeorge
ewolf 72, This is the first chance I had to get back to you...

Mode - ? PRO
Picture - ? 46
...

It is hard to say if I really notice a difference, but after spending $400 you want to think you do.

No problem, I understand. Thanks for your response. I was interested in this data primarily to see what your calibrator did with the black and gamma correctors. Also interesting to see where he set the brightness and how, in general, it compares to my set. I'm just now venturing into the service menu, myself, to see how I can tweak (improve?) things.

Thanks!

- Eric

I've been scanning the Owners thread and this thread and didn't know if anyone ever posted the way to turn off individual LCD panels, but if it hasn't been mentioned it's in

0 DCP-INT

26 RON 1/0
25 BON 1/0
24 GON 1/0

1=on 0=off

hope this helps

Scott

Originally posted by billatlakegeorge
ewolf 72, This is the first chance I had to get back to you

Mode - ? PRO
Picture - ? 46
Brightness - ? 31
Color - ? 31
Hue - ? 0
Sharpness - ? 31
Color Temp - ? Neutral
Noise Reduction - ? Off
Mild Mode - ? Off
Black Corrector - ? Off
Gamma Corrector - ? Off
Power Saving - ? Standard

These are the same for all sources. He did most of his adjusting in the service menu. He did say that the TV was very good right out of the box.

It is hard to say if I really notice a difference, but after spending $400 you want to think you do.

are these not the factory settings?

I am a newbie with regard to tweaking my LCD.

Can anyone tell me how to return the set to its original factory defaults.

I entered "Delay - 5 - VOL + - Pwr", and faced with the text.... found myself unable to figure out how to change the settings. I want to be sure that I have not messed anything up...... and want to return things to their original settings.

It might be helpful to give instruction as to how to actually change the values, once you have entered into the service mode.

Thanks MUCH!

Toddkidder,

You can just unplug the TV to erase any changes if you did not save the changes by pressing mute enter.

Very basic adjustment question here.
I have a 55WF655 and I have tweaked picture, brightness, etc. using AVIA and am quite pleased.
The one area I am not sure of is temperature.
For the life of me, I can't tell what looks "better" or more "real" -- Neutral or Warm.
What do most of you set temperature to?

THANKS!

Originally posted by Jon7athan
. . .
In The MID1 Category

Item 0 DHPH - adjusts your Horizontal Position
Item 1 DVPH - adjusts your Vertical Position
. . .


Does anyone know the difference between the DHPH/DVPH items in MID1 and the MDHP/MDVP items? Using the information I have, it says that for adjusting screen center (like after optical unit block assembly replacement), one ought to use the MDHP and MDVP items (9 and 10). However, several folks in this forum seem to be using DHPH and DVPH. Anyone know the difference between the two sets of items?

- Eric

Originally posted by AdamHLA
Very basic adjustment question here.
I have a 55WF655 and I have tweaked picture, brightness, etc. using AVIA and am quite pleased.
The one area I am not sure of is temperature.
For the life of me, I can't tell what looks "better" or more "real" -- Neutral or Warm.
What do most of you set temperature to?

THANKS!

My personal preference was to use NEUTRAL before I corrected the red push. After correcting red push (by setting AXIS = 0), WARM was the better choice. As I understand it, WARM is closer to the correct background color, and is the best setting other than a full grayscale calibration when AXIS is set to zero.

Jeff

Forgive my ignorance, but I am new to all this. How does one set "AXIS=0"
I've yet to go into the service menu or try any of that.

Thanks for the advice.

Adam

Originally posted by AdamHLA
Forgive my ignorance, but I am new to all this. How does one set "AXIS=0"
I've yet to go into the service menu or try any of that.

Thanks for the advice.
Adam
It's buried in this thread and in the UMR does the GWIII thread (check the first page of rear projection for the popular threads thread), but here it is in a nutshell:
0. Get a piece of paper to write down all of the values that you plan on changing. It's really a good idea to write down all of the service menu, because you might inadvertently increment/decrement some value.
1. Enter service menu from a tv that's "off" by entering the 4 key combo Disp - 5 - Vol up - Power"
2. Hit "Jump" button on your remote twice to get to service menu categories
3. Hit "2" on remote until "5 DCP-USR" is listed (4 times?). If you go past, hit "5" to go backwards.
4. Hit "1" on the remote until you get to 15-Axis. Hit "4" to go backwards
5. Decrement Axis with the "6" key, increment axis with the "3" key
6. Once your value is what you want saved, press mute - enter combination to write the values (service menu should say "writing").
7. Once everything is saved, turn power off, then back on in under 3 seconds to get out of service menu.

I'd highly recommend reading all of this thread as well as the UMR does the GWIII before jumping in here, but axis is pretty easy to set. Just decrement it to the 0 value.

pb.

Originally posted by pilotbiffster
0. Get a piece of paper to write down all of the values that you plan on changing. It's really a good idea to write down all of the service menu, because you might inadvertently increment/decrement some value.
1. Enter service menu from a tv that's "off" by entering the 4 key combo Disp - 5 - Vol up - Power"
2. Hit "Jump" button on your remote twice to get to service menu categories
3. Hit "2" on remote until "5 DCP-USR" is listed (4 times?). If you go past, hit "5" to go backwards.
4. Hit "1" on the remote until you get to 15-Axis. Hit "4" to go backwards
5. Decrement Axis with the "6" key, increment axis with the "3" key
6. Once your value is what you want saved, press mute - enter combination to write the values (service menu should say "writing").
7. Once everything is saved, turn power off, then back on in under 3 seconds to get out of service menu.
pb.

In addition to PB's notes on AXIS, I do believe this setting is input dependent (i.e. it is saved separately for each input). So make sure you have switched to the input you wish to effect first, then enter the service menu and make the changes PB suggests.

To make changes for other inputs, I recommend leaving the service menu, changing the input, then re-entering the service menu. This is the safest way to make sure a given change is associated with a given input.

Jeff

I had a Samsung HLP-5663W and was not happy with the output. I exchanged for a Sony 55xs955. Out of the box I was disappointed. The Sony looked worst then the Samsung. Thankful I read the forums and also with some help from UMR I tweaked a few settings in service mode. I will post all the SM settings as well as my user settings. If anyone would like they can use this as a starting point.

I have a Panasonic S97 DVD player hooked up HDMI. I disabled all so called enhancement features. Color space used 4:4:4. Also set blacks to darker. I am running player in 480p mode and not using 720p or 1080i mode as per UMR. He explained that the scaler in the Sony is superior to the one in the dvd player.


All settings should be done for 480p, 720p, 1080i. You have to switch your resolution in service mode for each. Some settings are global and some settings may be already defaulted in certain video modes. Also make sure you use Pro mode when you’re doing your adjustments. Let me first share with you my user menu PRO mode settings


USER Settings

Picture Max
Brightness 38
color 38
Hue R1
Sharpness 0
Temp Warm
Noise Reduction off
Mild Mode Off
Power saver Reduced
Advanced Menu (everything Off in adv and all gain and bias set to 0)

Next there are some basic tweaks in SM to help with clarity of picture.

Category DCP-ADJ2

SHFO 15

Category DCP-USER

AXIS 0

Category DCP-MID5

MHFM 2
MVFM 3
MVLS 0
MHLC 0

After making these adjustments I saw the picture look a lot sharper and clearer. I was happy to see improvements; however I still was not satisfied with color accuracy. Flesh tones seemed to red and also sometimes too green. The next set of adjustments help in getting the grayscale in order.
The XS model has a white point adjustment in the advanced user menu. Unfortunately it’s a very very fine adjustment. A course adjustment needed to be done to achieve an accurate grayscale.

Category DCP-ADJ1

RDRV 131
GDRV 140
BDRV 96
RCUT 230
GCUT 237
BCUT 239

I also wanted to adjust the overscan. 4:3 seemed to be dead on. 16:9 was slightly off. Here are my settings for 16:9 adjustments.

DHPH 102
DVPH 12
MDHS 224
MDVS 122

If anyone has any questions please feel free to ask
I will be testing my DVD player on 480i mode to see if it helps with the macroblocking issues with my DVD player as per UMR. My Xbox looks alot better and my HD811 DN reciever looks like night and day. I cancelled DN and am getting cable TV. I will be getting a SA8300HD reciever. It has a nice feature called passthru. I will be testing that and post my results next week. If I have time I will try to make a step by step guide for people who might be reluctant to try this or just new to the tweaking scene. UMR has some really great guides as well. One might want to read up on those as well to have a better understanding of each service mode setting does.

Originally posted by bent98
I had a Samsung HLP-5663W and was not happy with the output. I exchanged for a Sony 55xs955. Out of the box I was disappointed. The Sony looked worst then the Samsung. Thankful I read the forums and also with some help from UMR I tweaked a few settings in service mode. I will post all the SM settings as well as my user settings. If anyone would like they can use this as a starting point.......


Hey bent98, thank you for posting your settings!! I'll have to try them out. They seem to be quite different than fretbored03's and UMR's settings. So after performing these tweaks do you like the Sony over the Samsung now?

Originally posted by bent98

If anyone has any questions please feel free to ask
I will be testing my DVD player on 480i mode to see if it helps with the macroblocking issues with my DVD player as per UMR. My Xbox looks alot better and my HD811 DN reciever looks like night and day. I cancelled DN and am getting cable TV. I will be getting a SA8300HD reciever. It has a nice feature called passthru. I will be testing that and post my results next week. If I have time I will try to make a step by step guide for people who might be reluctant to try this or just new to the tweaking scene. UMR has some really great guides as well. One might want to read up on those as well to have a better understanding of each service mode setting does.

Hi Bent,

Could you instruct me on how to access my service menu? I have the 50WE655. Also, do you think the service menu settings are the same on the WE655 as the XS955? My final question would be why did you get rid of E* to go back to cable?

Thanks in advance,

Blackie....

Originally posted by bent98
<snip> A course adjustment needed to be done to achieve an accurate grayscale.

Category DCP-ADJ1

RDRV 131
GDRV 140
BDRV 96
RCUT 230
GCUT 237
BCUT 239
<snip>
Bent98 - What equipment/method did you use to set grayscale? Thanks.

Jeff

No need to exit the SM. Just hit the input button on the remote like you normally would. Remember to save after each adjustment.

Originally posted by HD_OCD


To make changes for other inputs, I recommend leaving the service menu, changing the input, then re-entering the service menu. This is the safest way to make sure a given change is associated with a given input.

Jeff

I didn’t have any equipment to adjust grayscale. I used a Kodak D65 Grayscale strip. I’m sure I can get closer with a light meter however I don’t have access to that.

As far as why I switched to cable over Dish Network. My cable offers locals. Also I have option to get an SA8300HD box which allows pass thru. Since the Sony TVs 720p and 1080i modes aren’t exactly 720p more like 788p Its better to let the Sony scale the image up. Also I think the SA8300HD has a better HDMI implementation for accurate colors then the DVI one on the DN 811HD. UMR explained that the DVI and HDMI are more PC standards then cinema standards. Sometime colors are more accurate hooked up component. I’m sure HDMI/DVI color space will be adjusted over time to closer resemble cinema standards. Also UMR explained to me that HDMI has error correction where DVI doesn’t. I have an 8 foot cable so it’s always better to have error correcting when sending information over cable.

My next challenge is adjusting the Red and Green colors individually. Weird thing is I adjusted green on 480p and when I switched to 720p the settings were applied across all resolutions, however I needed to tweak green. Going to have to find out why.

I will update my settings message to reflect the additional SM tweaks.


BTW nixima: After these tweaks I love my Sony over Samsung!

where might i find this Kodak D65 Grayscale Strip that you used?

You can get them in a photo store or art supply store. They range around $75-100. If you dont have any luck I can probably get you one for a discount. PM me.

Originally posted by bent98
I didn’t have any equipment to adjust grayscale. I used a Kodak D65 Grayscale strip. I’m sure I can get closer with a light meter however I don’t have access to that.

As far as why I switched to cable over Dish Network. My cable offers locals. Also I have option to get an SA8300HD box which allows pass thru. Since the Sony TVs 720p and 1080i modes aren’t exactly 720p more like 788p Its better to let the Sony scale the image up. Also I think the SA8300HD has a better HDMI implementation for accurate colors then the DVI one on the DN 811HD. UMR explained that the DVI and HDMI are more PC standards then cinema standards. Sometime colors are more accurate hooked up component. I’m sure HDMI/DVI color space will be adjusted over time to closer resemble cinema standards. Also UMR explained to me that HDMI has error correction where DVI doesn’t. I have an 8 foot cable so it’s always better to have error correcting when sending information over cable.

My next challenge is adjusting the Red and Green colors individually. Weird thing is I adjusted green on 480p and when I switched to 720p the settings were applied across all resolutions, however I needed to tweak green. Going to have to find out why.

I will update my settings message to reflect the additional SM tweaks.


BTW nixima: After these tweaks I love my Sony over Samsung!


So what you are saying is that the 811 set to 1080i DVI-HDMI will NOT look as good as a receiver with this pass through technology running on HDMI - HDMI? BTW who's your cable company?

From what was explained to me. Yes. since the Tv scales instead of box.

I am getting optonline-cablevision.

Originally posted by bent98
...My next challenge is adjusting the Red and Green colors individually. Weird thing is I adjusted green on 480p and when I switched to 720p the settings were applied across all resolutions, however I needed to tweak green. Going to have to find out why....

These are the same because you used AXIS 0 for all inputs. You could switch to AXIS 1 or 2 for others and have separate RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB values for those inputs.

Has anyone determined the optimal settings in the 480P mode.

Originally posted by rupertoooo
Has anyone determined the optimal settings in the 480P mode.

That is not possible for all settings. Each set and source has some variability. That is why bent98 is having problems for example with a single setting for the color decoder (AXIS). You need to go through a calibration procedure something like I posted for the GWIII or GWII. There is also a certain level of experimentation required to determine what output type (HDMI, DVI, component, S-Video, composite) and device options (dark level, enhancement...) works best for each device and resolution type.

Some settings may involve a certain level of personal preference as well. That is why I suggest you look at test patterns and movies before after and while you adjust your TV. Some settings should be fairly universal though including those that effect the bandpass of the inputs SHF0, MHFM, MVFM. MVLS and MHLC. AXIS is likely to be fairly consistent at 0 unless you have devices with significant problems these can include DVI/HDMI DVD players and HDTV STB's that improperly translate to the HD color matrix. Picture level adjustments including the user menu picture and brightness values will have some variability.

After researching these threads I decided to give tweaking my 50WE655 a shot. Here are the changes I made:

E* HD811 connected DVI - HDMI 1080i (Input 7) - Pro Mode

Category DCP-ADJ1

RDRV - 140 to 131
BDRV - 140 to 102
GCUT - 255 to 242

Category DCP-ADJ2

SHOF - 25 to 15

Category MID-5

MVLC - 0 to 1
MHLC - 2 to 1
MVFM - 2 to 4
MHFM - 2 to 4

DCP USER Category

UBOF - 35 to 30
AXIS - 2 to 0
USHP - 36 - 0

I was nervous at first, but in a few minutes I was comfortable making changes within the SM.

To my eyes it looks like the changes I made had somewhat of a "smoothing" effect on the picture in HD and SD. The program menu looked much smoother. Also, it appears that SD and Digital OTA may have improved slightly. Red push also does seem slightly better. I'm sure I will still notice red push, but hopefully, this helps a bit. It also appears that the picture is not as bright in a good way...Hard to explain.

Anyways, I'd like to thank UMR for his help with tweaking. I'll continue to monitor the GWIV tweaks forum to see if anyone else has made any improvements within the SM. Also, if anyone would care to chime in and help out if I made a mistake or just add on to what I've already done, I'd appreciate it. Oh, if I stick with these settings, I will repeat the same on input 6 for my DVD player.

Also, will all settings go to default if I hit reset while in the SM? If not, how is this accomplished?

Thanks to all,

Blackie :)

Blackie,

I noticed you change SHOF instead of SHF0. You should go back and revist that one.

MVLC. I didnt change that one. I changed MVLS. Check that one also black.

SHOF must be a typo on my part..Should be SHFO. :)

Also, bent my factory setting for MVLS = 0. Is this what you recommend?

Any DVD players that you guys recommend under $200.00 to go with my 50WE655? I'm still using my Sony N500D Non progressive player.

Any other advice for me UMR?

Thanks guys,

Blackie

If anyone would like to try to adjust the color decoder and disable the RGB channels and try to get the green and the red more accurate. Let me know. I am having issues with adjusting the Reds.


The link below will give you step by step instructions. Using the AVIA disk makes it easy.

http://homecentric.com/forums/about11.html

This is how to disable each color:

0 DCP-INT

26 RON 1/0
25 BON 1/0
24 GON 1/0

1=on 0=off

Blackie it worked for me. What I was saying is the one you tweaked Im not sure what it does. I didnt see UMR or anyone adjust that one setting.

Originally posted by blackngold19
SHOF must be a typo on my part..Should be SHFO. :)

Also, bent my factory setting for MVLS = 0. Is this what you recommend?

Any DVD players that you guys recommend under $200.00 to go with my 50WE655? I'm still using my Sony N500D Non progressive player.

Any other advice for me UMR?

Thanks guys,

Blackie

SHOF is an actual item, but not the one you need to change. SHFO does not go to 25 it is limited to 15. I think you made a mistake. That is why I suggested you revisit this one.

I use a Denon DVD-3800 that I can HIGHLY recommend, but it costs more than $200 used. I have not been looking at the latest players so some may be available that are good buys. I would avoid Faroudja players for obvious reasons (search on my user name and Faroudja for more information on that). You might be able to snatch a refurb Denon DVD-2200 or a used one for that price. I would probably go that route if it was me.

Your Sony is likely to perform best if you send the input in at 480i and let the TV do the inverse telecine. That player is fairly old.

OK. I'm changing MVLC back to 0, it's original setting. I didn't change MVLS becuase it was already set at 0.

Thanks again

It was at 0 on 720p and 1080i but not at 480i or 480p. Make sure you adjust for all video modes.

Originally posted by umr
SHOF is an actual item, but not the one you need to change. SHFO does not go to 25 it is limited to 15. I think you made a mistake. That is why I suggested you revisit this one.

I use a Denon DVD-3800 that I can HIGHLY recommend, but it costs more than $200 used. I have not been looking at the latest players so some may be available that are good buys. I would avoid Faroudja players for obvious reasons (search on my user name and Faroudja for more information on that). You might be able to snatch a refurb Denon DVD-2200 or a used one for that price. I would probably go that route if it was me.

Your Sony is likely to perform best if you send the input in at 480i and let the TV do the inverse telecine. That player is fairly old.

I think my DVD player is the first Sony ever released. Well I tried the Sony D975P and the HKDVD22, and I barely noticed a difference over HDMI or component. Oh, BTW, I prefer standard mode for my TV. Is this a shared opinion, or just another variation from eye to eye?

Thanks for the help,

Blackie

Blackie,

I an pretty sure the 500 was not "the" first. I believe the DVP-S7000 and DVP-S3000 preceded it. I used to own the DVP-S7000 and it was a very nice player. The better D/A converters today do outclass it, but it was great at playing even heavily damaged disks.

I have no idea what people prefer as far as modes go. It can be a preference thing, but Pro is more likely to give the more accurate performance.

It is more important to do the service mode adjustments than to tinker with DVD players. Unfortunately, the benefits of various players is masked with Sony's default settings. You would need to eliminate filtering and enhancements first to enable the TV to perform at its best before you test any player.

Hi. I've got a KDF-55WF655, and so far I really like the set. Haven't tried the SM tweaks yet, but I'm pretty happy with the HD and DVD quality. The problem is my xbox. I've got the Monster HD cables connected to my component input, and I've switched the xbox to 480p mode but my games all have a very "jaggie" look to them. I know that on a big screen it will magnify the flaws, but I've read of others getting a smooth picture, even on a big screen. Could the fact that Sony uses a native resolution of 488p be causing the problem??

Forgot to ask... If anyone has settings for their Xbox input that their happy with, I'd love to know what they are. Thanks!!

umr -

'bent98' mentioned that you helped him tweak his XS955 TV a little and I noticed that you used DHPH and DVPH presumably to re-center the screen. Per my earlier-posted question (quoted again below), do you know why one should use DHPH/DVPH vs. using MDHP/MDVP? I haven't received a response to this question yet and thought you might know. I haven't found an answer elsewhere in the forum.

I'd appreciate your thoughts. Thanks,

- Eric

Originally posted by ewolf72
Does anyone know the difference between the DHPH/DVPH items in MID1 and the MDHP/MDVP items? Using the information I have, it says that for adjusting screen center (like after optical unit block assembly replacement), one ought to use the MDHP and MDVP items (9 and 10). However, several folks in this forum seem to be using DHPH and DVPH. Anyone know the difference between the two sets of items?

I have had a toshiba 52hm84 for the past week and I was thinking of trading it in for the we655 but I'm scared of all the calibration I'll have to do. I don't understand all the values in the service menu. Talking to a employee of CC who has the older version lcd sony he said you can tweak this tv to just as good quality dlp if not better in the hd and dvd signals. I was thinking of getting the lcd because I saw the SD stations on it and it looked alot better than the dlp.
I know my thoughts are all jumbled together but I just want to know if I could calibrate this tv, like are all the calibrations that are posted pretty much the same and is their anything that you would have to buy to put in the tv to make it look better.
Sorry...How do you calibrate this tv to its fullest callibration and adons. does anyone have a list of everything that you have done and have you noticed a total difference. the guy at CC said his tv look 10 time better than when he started. I know I'm asking alot but I have to make the decision in the next couple of days. Any help from you guys will help. Thanks Chris

Originally posted by umr
Blackie,

I an pretty sure the 500 was not "the" first. I believe the DVP-S7000 and DVP-S3000 preceded it. I used to own the DVP-S7000 and it was a very nice player. The better D/A converters today do outclass it, but it was great at playing even heavily damaged disks.



Yes, the DVP-S7000 was the first Sony DVD player. It was joined by the much cheaper DVP-S3000 about six to eight months later. They were similar but the 3000 had no component outs and was more cheaply built. It did have an option to always play the DD 5.1 audio track though. Many earlier DVDs defaulted to DD 2.0.

I still have my DVD-S7000 attached to a small TV.