I have had the HR20 for at least a couple years now, using it with an HLP5674. Within the last year or so, all of my SD channels became so completely overscanned that I cannot even read subtitles, or see the score of a game. It did not used to do this, but I guess one of the updates has caused this.

Is there a fix for this? I have run through the screen sizes on the TV menu, that helps only slightly, there is still significant cutoff.

It seems like there should be some way to adjust the HR20, but I have not found it. I'm connecting with HDMI. Sounds like a DirecTv/HR20 issue, not the TV.

Gary

I need some help with my 5674 set, for some reason, after an hour of tv on, the whole screen gets really fuzzy enough that i can't see anything and then i have to turn off the tv for a couple hours for it to cool down for the screen to be clear, of course, until it gets hot again.. has anyone experience this?

I need some help with my 5674 set, for some reason, after an hour of tv on, the whole screen gets really fuzzy enough that i can't see anything and then i have to turn off the tv for a couple hours for it to cool down for the screen to be clear, of course, until it gets hot again.. has anyone experience this? You'll have to be a bit more specific about "fuzzy". If you look closely at individual pixels, do they drift out of focus, or does this look more like image degradation? Is this specific to a certain input, or does it affect all of them?

Gary

i'm sorry, i meant fuzzy cause i couldnt really see the screen anymore cause of all the things that was happening.. the screen would start flashing colors and the colors flashed everywhere, sometimes images would move around the screen to different locations.. i would hear a buzzing noise too after i shut off the tv and turn it back on..

i'm sorry, i meant fuzzy cause i couldnt really see the screen anymore cause of all the things that was happening.. the screen would start flashing colors and the colors flashed everywhere, sometimes images would move around the screen to different locations.. i would hear a buzzing noise too after i shut off the tv and turn it back on.. Oh dear, that sounds really bad. It may be a bad digital board or DMD board. Probably needs repairs.

Gary

Oh dear, that sounds really bad. It may be a bad digital board or DMD board. Probably needs repairs.

Gary

which part number would that be from this website.. thanks

http://www.partstore.com/GetModel.aspx?MfgName=Samsung&BrandName=Samsung&ModelNumber=HLP5674W&SortBy=description&sortdirection=asc&page=1

which part number would that be from this website.. thanks

http://www.partstore.com/GetModel.aspx?MfgName=Samsung&BrandName=Samsung&ModelNumber=HLP5674W&SortBy=description&sortdirection=asc&page=1 Digital board: BP94-02191A
The DMD board is not currently listed. Its part of the far more expensive light engine. The DMD board requires careful handling and special alignment.

Please bear in mind that I am making an educated guess as to the cause. It would take an experienced technician to accurately diagnose the problem, and he would have to see your picture symptoms first.

The "buzzing noise" you described could be a color wheel going bad, or maybe the power supply - it depends on the type of sound. Either of those could potentially affect the picture as well.

Gary

I hope this is the correct place to post this question, as I am a forum newbie.

I have a 4-year old Samsung HLP5674W which I have really enjoyed until now. Since about a week ago, I do not get a picture. When I turn on the TV, it powers up as normal, the sound and picture both come on as usual, then after about 3 seconds, there is a brief green flash and the picture goes off. Everything else (sound, channel changing) seems to work OK, just no picture.

Has anyone had a similar experience or is familiar with this type of problem and can offer any advice? I would normally have requested service under my extended warranty, but I purchased it from Tweeter, which is now defunct.

Thanks in advance for any help in this matter.

Have a HL-P5674W with a fan #1 failure message on the screen. It turns on brieflly and has a normal picture until it turns itself off.

Does anyone know where this fan is located and if it can be repaired or replaced easy enough by someone not afraid to open the set up (me)?

Thank you.

Replace the bulb it's going bad and TV will shut off automatically..

We are buying a house where the seller is leaving behind a HL-P567AW on it's stand if I want it.

He says it has a fan failure message (I think he said fan number 1) on the screen but that it turns on brieflly and has a normal picture until it turns itself off. Is this a known problem with these sets, is it easily reapairable?

Thank you.
Color wheel fan probably is bad not to hard to fix but you can do it in 1/2 hour.
Google JANGO and there detail of how to do it.

I have a 4674 that has worked without any problem for 4 years but...it is getting very hard to get the set to turn on or off. Have new Duracells in the remote but still the same. I have to get within 4-5 feet and carefully aim to get it to work. Otherwise works great as usual. Any ideas?

biggiE48, can you be more specific regarding JANGO, JANGO.com seems to be a music site not a TV repair site?

Thank you.

Sorry one letter was left out. Here is the link http://www.jangro.com/electronics/samsung-dlp-replace-color-wheel/

I hope this is the correct place to post this question, as I am a forum newbie.

I have a 4-year old Samsung HLP5674W which I have really enjoyed until now. Since about a week ago, I do not get a picture. When I turn on the TV, it powers up as normal, the sound and picture both come on as usual, then after about 3 seconds, there is a brief green flash and the picture goes off. Everything else (sound, channel changing) seems to work OK, just no picture.

Has anyone had a similar experience or is familiar with this type of problem and can offer any advice? I would normally have requested service under my extended warranty, but I purchased it from Tweeter, which is now defunct.

Thanks in advance for any help in this matter.
Sorry I missed your message, eastreal. This sounds like the lamp/balast going bad. Hope you've managed to fix it by now.

Gary

Anyone have an idea? See post above by me.

I have a 4674 that has worked without any problem for 4 years but...it is getting very hard to get the set to turn on or off. Have new Duracells in the remote but still the same. I have to get within 4-5 feet and carefully aim to get it to work. Otherwise works great as usual. Any ideas? The IR sensor is down by the light-engine, so the remote has to be aimed at the middle of the screen (the IR bounces off the mirror inside). If you're aiming properly, there are 3 possible causes:
If its only the ON/OFF button that has the trouble, it could be that the button is not working properly. The worst problem for remote buttons is food grease (esp. pizza) that migrates into the remote and gets between the button and the PC Board contacts. You may be able to open it up, and clean the button and contacts with alcohol.
The IR transmitter diode is fading and needs replacement. A whole new remote may be easier. If you have a universal remote, try programming it with the Samsung remote, and see if the universal is better. If not, then your Samsung remote is not the problem.
The IR sensor is getting coated with dust, and needs cleaning. A few careful blasts of compressed air can blow the dust out of the light-engine, sensor and colorwheel area, and restore a dimming picture too.

Gary

Can anyone confirm on a 5674 that the color wheel fan is fan #1? I have a fan#1 failure message on the screen.

Thank you.

Can anyone confirm on a 5674 that the color wheel fan is fan #1? I have a fan#1 failure message on the screen. No idea how to do this without the Samsung schematics.

Gary

Hello, Have not posted here in a while but I have a Sammy 4674 which I bought new back in 2004. I have only changed the bulb once in that time frame and the set still works good. The sound is better that most sets out there today I believe and the picture quality is still very good compared to Plasma and LCD, however I am considering buying another TV. I am looking at a 47" Vizio LCD SV470M with a 120HZ refresh rate and contrast ratio of 50,000 to 1. The price is less that a grand a lot less that the 2500 I paid for the Sammy five years ago. What a difference a few years make. Paul D

After 4+ years I finally had to put a new bulb in my 5674. 14,875 hours is not bad. I did not notice how dim it had gotten until I put the new one in. WOW!

I have an HLP4674W. Just changed the bulb but problem still exists.

1. Plug TV in

2. Red standby light on

3. turn on TV

4. sound but no picture

5. green lamp light flashes (MIDDLE ONE)

6. goes into standby (red light)

7. TV turns off by itself

8. Immediately turns on by itself

9. repeats steps 4-7
10. turns off by itself

11. all 3 lights flashing

12. after 2 minutes no fan and TV goes dead (just red standby light)

13. turn TV on - goes back to step 4 and repeats.


Any ideas?

I have an HLP4674W. Just changed the bulb but problem still exists.

1. Plug TV in
2. Red standby light on
3. turn on TV
4. sound but no picture
5. green lamp light flashes (MIDDLE ONE)
6. goes into standby (red light)
7. TV turns off by itself
8. Immediately turns on by itself
9. repeats steps 4-7
10. turns off by itself
11. all 3 lights flashing
12. after 2 minutes no fan and TV goes dead (just red standby light)
13. turn TV on - goes back to step 4 and repeats.

Any ideas?

I don't recall the exact sequence, but mine intermittently did something very similar in the last month or two before the bulb died. It hasn't happened in the ~3 months since I replaced the bulb. Maybe the replacement bulb you put in is bad?

-- Pete

Starting to have issues hopefully someone can help. It started about a week ago, in low light scenes there is banding in the dark areas. If its a picture of a rouned surface instead of a gradual fade from light to dark I get bands from light to dark. Nothing has changed in setup. Same on both DVRs that I have hooked up. Any ideas on whats going out?

Starting to have issues hopefully someone can help. It started about a week ago, in low light scenes there is banding in the dark areas. If its a picture of a rouned surface instead of a gradual fade from light to dark I get bands from light to dark. Nothing has changed in setup. Same on both DVRs that I have hooked up. Any ideas on whats going out? I'll bet that nothing is "going out". Banding in dark areas is very typical of these sets (grayscale ramps are represented by digital steps from black to white). You may only have noticed this now because you viewed some material that made it stand out.

Bear in mind, though, that image artifacts like banding may be recorded in the source material (a result of MPEG compression, for example), so use a high quality test pattern to check.

Also make sure that you select the "Cinema"/"Movie" mode in the User Menu, and turn off any nasty image "enhancement" circuits, like "DNIe" and "Noise Reduction". Set Sharpness to 0. Then use a calibration disk like "DVE" to tweak brightness, contrast, and saturation. If you skip this step with any source device, you will not be getting a good picture.

If the banding is legit, and continues to bother you, the only fix is calibration in the Service Menu. See my HLN Calibration Crash-Course (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5120358&&#post5120358) if you'd like to try it yourself. This technique ensures that you are using the full range of available digital steps, from black to white. This results in the smoothest grayscale/color ramps, with very minor banding.

Gary

Thanks for the reply GSB, but this is something outside the normal. I will try to get a picture this weekend. But this is something sudden. I re-watched a few scenes from a movie that I watched a few weeks ago and there is a noticable difference.

OK, I'm curious to see the pictures.

Gary

Ok, here is a picture and it has only gotten worse.

http://russbrown5.smugmug.com/photos/807130872_TNWZ6-L.jpg

That's far worse than banding. It looks like a severe loss of color resolution (like a 256-color display).

Have you ventured into the Service Menu recently? One of your critical settings may have been changed. Has anyone else serviced your unit? Is there a noise (squealing, buzzing) associated with this? If none of the above apply, there is a possibility that one of your boards has failed.

By a process of elimination:
Its not the power supply.
Its not the lamp or ballast.
Its not the mirrors on the DLP chip.
Its not the optical path.
If this occurs on the DVI/HDMI inputs as well, then you can rule out the tuner and the analog board.

So the most likely culprits would be the color wheel timing, the DMD board, or the digital board.

Gary

It got worse than banding in the last few days. It does it on all inputs, and seems to be heat related. When you first turn it on the picture is ok for a few minutes and then gets a little worse. The above picture was after it was on for a few hours. Now comes the decision if its worth fixing or just get a new TV.

Yes, heat may well be a factor. I'd imagine that a repair would cost a few hundred bucks (they'd probably start by replacing the light-engine). So it might be wiser to upgrade, especially considering the current prices on LCD's. I went for a Sony XBR 1080p LCDTV, and I'm SO glad that I did. It is so much nicer than the DLP. I passed the DLP on to my in-laws, and it's still working well for them on the original lamp.

Gary

Thanks Gary. That is what I am thinking. I will have it looked at to find out the possible cost. I have already started looking at the new LCDs. I have a Vizio 32 inch in the bedroom that has a better picture than my DLP had, so I may use this time to upgrade.

Well Gary I found out the repair was more than I was willing to spend, so I upgraded to a Vizio VF552XVT and was amazed at how much better the picture is. I haven't really looked at TVs since I bought the DLP 4+ years ago. The repair guy is even going to buy my TV for parts :).

Very cool! Yes, it is truly amazing how good a 1080p fixed-pixel display looks, especially with a 1080p Blu-ray source!

Gary

I just received my lamp from Fedex and followed the general video on the Samsung site, once I removed the little cover on the back of the TV expecting to see the lamp - there was a fan.

Can anyone tell me what I need to remove to get at the lamp.

I appreciate it!!

I just wanted to chime in on how reliable this set has been. I bought the new HLP5674 six years ago. I recently replaced the bulb even though the first bulb was still going strong.

My next TV will likely be a Samsung based on the experience I've had with this TV. Kudos Samsung engineers!

I lose my blue in my picture after watching for a while..

I thought color wheel, but it's just the blue.... Any help?

I just received my lamp from Fedex and followed the general video on the Samsung site, once I removed the little cover on the back of the TV expecting to see the lamp - there was a fan.

Can anyone tell me what I need to remove to get at the lamp.

I appreciate it!!

You probably figured this out already, but the lamp door is on the left side of the set, as viewed from the front.

-- Pete

I Just put another $120 into my 5674 -- definitely the last time. I replaced the color wheel myself for the 2nd time after it shattered. Took me about 30 minutes total time this time a great improvement over three hours last time. I replaced the bulb last May.

This time the color wheel was my fault -- I was sanding new sheetrock seams in the room with the set while it was on -- the fine grit in the air got pulled into the set and it didn't have a chance.