Originally posted by tom_baldridge
looking to buy 5674 but none of my local retailers sell it here in ohio, can
anybody help me with a good place online to buy? thanks.
TVAuthority has a link at the top of the page. You should tell them you are an AVS member. You may get a better price.

Does anybody know if the 74 series TVs have had any firmware upgrades made since they came out? I got mine in December and sort of wondering out loud if the TV has improved in any way, because of software upgrades?
I'm a tweakaholics by heart, and don't want to miss out on any improvements...

I am torn between waiting for the 1080 p set and the 4674 .

I was wondering those out there that bought the 4674 would you buy them again.

I cant go bigger small cabinet.

Thx

For a 46" set, you'd have to be sitting pretty close to visually resolve 1920x1080. What will your viewing distance be?

Originally posted by tom_baldridge
looking to buy 5674 but none of my local retailers sell it here in ohio, can
anybody help me with a good place online to buy? thanks.

Where are you in Ohio? Ovation in Cincinnati carries them (513-770-5888). I've worked with Duke the Manager. Good Guy and they will wheel and deal with you.

As far as online, TV Authority is a sponsor on this site. I have also seen some people getting it from Vanns. (www.vanns.com). I've seen good prices from both.

Good luck!

Originally posted by mismatched
xymox9

Have you evaluated the black detail after hooking up your Moto DVR to your Sammy with component cables? And perhaps also comparing your DVD player via DVI???

m

Unfortunately my DVD player is component only. I haven't tried component cables yet on the Moto DVR, but I had the exact same DVR hooked up to another 4674W and the picture on that one looks just fine. It's almost as if my replacement TV has the brightness set 10 or 15 steps below what the previous one was--even though they are the same. Basically, any dark scenes look REALLY dark, even with brightness at 50 and contrast at 90 or 100. If I up the brightness, the picture just starts to look washed out without bringing out any more detail in the darkness. Very odd and very annoying... It seems like my TV either wasn't calibrated right on the DVI port or has something else wrong. I need to do some more testing w/ the component, though, just to rule out a problem with the light engine or something.

Jeff,

I am using the HDMI out with my HD DVR abd have never had a problem.

Originally posted by xymox9
Unfortunately my DVD player is component only. I haven't tried component cables yet on the Moto DVR, but I had the exact same DVR hooked up to another 4674W and the picture on that one looks just fine. It's almost as if my replacement TV has the brightness set 10 or 15 steps below what the previous one was--even though they are the same. Basically, any dark scenes look REALLY dark, even with brightness at 50 and contrast at 90 or 100. If I up the brightness, the picture just starts to look washed out without bringing out any more detail in the darkness. Very odd and very annoying... It seems like my TV either wasn't calibrated right on the DVI port or has something else wrong. I need to do some more testing w/ the component, though, just to rule out a problem with the light engine or something.

If you feel very strongly that your replacement has an issue. Maybe you can get a tech out to go through the service menu at their cost.

Originally posted by mchuckp
Where are you in Ohio? Ovation in Cincinnati carries them (513-770-5888). I've worked with Duke the Manager. Good Guy and they will wheel and deal with you.

Thanks for the info! Might be a little too far for me to drive. I live north of
Mansfield.

Originally posted by RMSko
Does anyone have an opinion about how the 5663W with a seven segment color wheel compares to the 5674W with a six segment color wheel?

Rich,

I spent quite a bit of time doing an A/B test of my DVDs on these two sets back in November before choosing the 5674.

To me it was no contest. I was worried that the 6 segment wheel would mean that there would be more banding in dark areas or that the black level of the 5674 would not be as good as the 5663. That worry was unfounded. When I compared them side-by-side the 5674 had a much better contrast with deeper black levels.

The 5674 also had a much sharper image. The 5663 was significantly softer and I preferred the picture on the 5674. Even my wife, who does not share my obsession for video details, felt like she could see the difference.

Have you checked stores selling the 5674 to see if any have a 5663 so that you can see both together?

I haven't looked back. Each time I watch the 5674 (either DVDs or HDTV) I continually am amazed at the picture quality. I keep wondering when this feeling will wear off but so far it hasn't.

Brad

Cheezmo,

We will mostly be in the 10 -15 foot range away.

Part of th ereason I would consider waiting to see if the 50" 1080p is a real unit. If it is it would most likey fit my opening 49" across.

Any way I am not normally this nutty about TV's and I am certainly a novice when it comes to al ot of this.

I was just curious now that the 4674's have been out a while if people overall are pleased and would buy them again.

Thx for the reponse

BJP

I just got my 5674 1/31 and its got firmware version 1111.

Anybody else with different firmware?

Originally posted by mmccking
I just got my 5674 1/31 and its got firmware version 1111.

Anybody else with different firmware?

I received my 5674 on 1/25 with the same firmware version.

Rich

Go with the 5674. I have one, chose it over the 63 without hesitation and am definitely not looking back. The PQ is fantastic!

mismatched

Originally posted by Danboy68
Well, it looks great out of the box. The top of the screen has a slight downward bow that shows a little distortion/"ants", but this is only on some channels. Not sure if this will pass or can be adjusted out?

Their is quite a difference in PQ among the non-HD stations, but we'll see what happens after a hundred hours or so.

Sat SD is really good overall. I'm really happy it doesn't seem too abnormally stretched (no grossly noticeable wide faces). HD great.

I had to adjust the settings somewhat brighter than planned (for example, cinema mode was too dark so I went with standard) since the TV sits high (above fireplace) and I need to compensate a little for the loss of brightness.

Update--picture getting better as others said it would--the top "distortion/ants" is gone. I'm really happy with the 5674!

Although last night, in the middle of a movie, it rebooted for no reason to "acquire new guide" for about 3 minutes, then reverted back automatically to the movie Does anyone see this as a problem?

Hey Mismatched, I am in SE Portland and wonder if your using Dish/Direct/Comcast?

Well I just returned my Mitz WD52525. Great picture, great price, LOUD FANS. Just could'nt take it at low volume. Sounds like a server running.

With that said I am seeking the best price on a Samsung HL-P5674 so I just registered on this site to ask you all for suggestions? 2 local retailers, Magnolia & Good Guys have it priced at 3799. Toss in another 350 for extended warranty. I have read thru these posts back to November and was hoping you could make suggestions because I am not a rich man but favorable tax return makes this purchase a reality.

My provider is Dish Network and I have the 510 DVR Receiver. Most of my viewing is SD but I will be using off air antenna until I can afford Dish's HD DVR but it costs another 549 bucks plus 10 bucks for their HD feed. Thx

psprando -- re goodguys vs Magnolia warrantees.

Magnolia includes the bulb -- if GG doesn't I would definitely go with them.

As for service I had one stuck mirror about 25 days in and Magnolia Beaverton swapped me a new set with no questions asked.

psprando

I use Comcast and the HD is awesome. And SD is not bad at all. Just got done watching Battlestar Gallactica on the SciFi channel, SD and only 4;3 but still a great picture.

I highly recommend Chelsea Audio Video in Beaverton. They actually beat Magnolia's price and their warranty also covers the bulb. Plus I like the people there. Ask for Ford III.

If you set up your PM (personal messaging) I can give you more details.

This is one heck of a display.

PS Comcasts HD PVR is $5 a month and no upfront fee. Once you see HD you will want a HD DVR regardless of your provider. Comcast gets all kind of grief and I guess if you have to watch CBS football in HD you will not like them. But Fox's HD sports coverage including the Superbowl was/is incredible!! As is 24!!

mismatched

I have been fiddling around with the component outputs from my Comcast Motorola HD DVR to see if they are any better than the DVI connection in terms of producing more detail in dark scenes. However, when I hook it up using Component cables, the picture is "wavy" and looks incredibly bad. If I change the output settings to 1080i then it looks just fine, but if I change it back to 720p, it has that "wavy" problem. The DVR can run at 720p just fine using the DVI output. I just want to make sure this is a known problem with the DVR and not some type of problem with the component inputs on my TV at that resolution.

480P also looks fine using component, since that's how I watch DVDs and if I switch the Motorola box to that the screen doesn't look "wavy". It's just at 720p.

Thanks for the help.

bjpjjs, as Cheezmo said for a 46-50 inch set you would need to be around 7 ft. to be able to see the additional resolution from a 1080P set. At 10 to 15 ft. you would not be able to see any difference between 720P and 1080P.

I have had my 4674 since early Nov. and have had zero issues. PQ was great out of the box. If I could change anything about the set I would improve the black levels, but that could be said for all the current micro display (LCD, LCOS, DLP) RPTVs. I would buy the 4674 again without doubt.

f300v10

Thanks for the post.

That's what I was looking for.

I will be utilizing Direct TV is that what you are using or are you using cable.

Thx BJP

I have the DirecTV using a HR10-250. The ability to time-shift HD is great, I always have something to watch in HD.

What colorspace should be viewable on the 74W? I'm pretty sure of the answer, since I hooked up my powerbook at HD720 to it via DVI and the blacks are clipped at RGB(15, 15, 15)...anything under that is the same black.

I'm still trying to figure out whether the poor display of blacks on the 74W is due to the DVI/HDMI output of the DirecTV H10 or the input processing of the Samsung. The analog component inputs (from the same HD10) to the set are much better black-level wise and seem to display the full range of blacks. The difference in picture between the two is remarkable.


Can't find anything on the H10 thread about it and got 7 days to return the 74W if I don't find a solution.

I'm using the Denon 1910 through DVI, which looks incredible by the way, and I have a lot of overscan.

On the top menu screen of DVE, there a little navigation button icon with directional arrows, and literally half of that is cut off to the left. When I go to the actual overscan image, it seems like over scan is around 5%, but on that main menu screen, it seems like a lot more.

I've been reading here that when I'm receiving 720p, I should have Wide, Expand, and 4:3 options, but I've never seen Expand anywhere but the PC input.

My DVD player is set, in two places, to know that I have a 16:9 screen, so I don't really know what other settings to change.

Is this normal? Has anyone else put in DVE and seen that half cut off button on the top menu page? Has anyone else felt like overscan was a big problem? Am I missing some obvious setting that I will feel silly for not having in the right place?

Thanks.

P.S. This TV is a thing of beauty.

Originally posted by xymox9
I have been fiddling around with the component outputs from my Comcast Motorola HD DVR to see if they are any better than the DVI connection in terms of producing more detail in dark scenes. However, when I hook it up using Component cables, the picture is "wavy" and looks incredibly bad. If I change the output settings to 1080i then it looks just fine, but if I change it back to 720p, it has that "wavy" problem. The DVR can run at 720p just fine using the DVI output. I just want to make sure this is a known problem with the DVR and not some type of problem with the component inputs on my TV at that resolution.

480P also looks fine using component, since that's how I watch DVDs and if I switch the Motorola box to that the screen doesn't look "wavy". It's just at 720p.

Thanks for the help.

This is known problem with the comcast component outs. 720p is no good but 1080i is fine.

DVI out from this comcast box does not show this problem at 720p. I have my 6214 hooked up DVI out to 5674 HDMI in at 720p with no problems. With that input you can then set the 5674 to "expand" which is a 1:1 pixel mapping of the 720p input and 1-2% overscan. Just gorgeous.

Brad

Originally posted by JeffNebraska
I've been reading here that when I'm receiving 720p, I should have Wide, Expand, and 4:3 options, but I've never seen Expand anywhere but the PC input.
You should be able to cycle through Wide (TV), Wide (PC), Expand, and 4x3 with the "P. Size" button on your HLP remote control.

Use the "Info" button on the HLP remote to see what your input is.

It should be 1280x720 @ 60Hz. If it's not then your DVD player is not outputting 720p. You mention setting your DVD player to use a 16x9 screen but not what resolution it is outputting.

Originally posted by htwaits
You should be able to cycle through Wide (TV), Wide (PC), Expand, and 4x3 with the "P. Size" button on your HLP remote control.

Use the "Info" button on the HLP remote to see what your input is.

It should be 1280x720 @ 60Hz. If it's not then your DVD player is not outputting 720p. You mention setting your DVD player to use a 16x9 screen but not what resolution it is outputting.

I haven't used the "info" button to confirm, but, according to the player, it's outputting 720p. Nonetheless, only wide and 4x3 are available.

Should I have these same options on HDMI if I'm outputting from my HD Tivo at 720p? If I'm not mistaken, on there I get Wide, Panorama, Zoom 1, Zoom 2, and 4x3.

I've still never seen Wide (PC) or Expand on any input but the VGA input.

Too bad I'm not at home right now to confirm all my settings and recollections.

Expand is not available if your player or box outputs HDCP signal -- then you only see Wide and 4:3

Originally posted by Paul_PDX
Expand is not available if your player or box outputs HDCP signal -- then you only see Wide and 4:3

That answers that. So is the major overscan I'm seeing unavoidable then?

Hasn't anyone else here with an HDCP-DVI DVD player tried DVE and noticed this issue? It's so surprising that I continue to feel like I have some setting wrong. But maybe that's just how it is.

One other point that may or may not be signficant.

When I change to 4x3 mode, the amount of overscan is exactly the same, just the whole image is squished in from the left and right sides. To the extent that Wide is intentionally causing the overscan, shouldn't I see the full image on 4x3?

Originally posted by Paul_PDX
Expand is not available if your player or box outputs HDCP signal -- then you only see Wide and 4:3
That's news to me. :)

If the input is connected to HDMI or DVI at 720p I have always seen Wide (TV), Wide(PC), Expand, and 4x3 on our two HLP sets. One was a May 2004 build and the current one is an October 2004 build. For all Digital TV and DVD input I use Expand.

The Motorola STB outputs 720p through it's DVI port and is connected with a HDMI cable that has a DVI connector on one end.

Our HTPC DVD player (TheaterTek) outputs DVI at 720p also and is connected to the DVI input on the TV.

I don't know if Comcast has ever activated HDCP flags in their signal (San Francisco Bay Area) so I can't speak to how our HLP set would react. All I can say is that the HLP has been in Expand mode for eight months except for those few situations where I've changed it myself.

Originally posted by htwaits
That's news to me. :)

If the input is connected to HDMI or DVI at 720p I have always seen Wide (TV), Wide(PC), Expand, and 4x3 on our two HLP sets. One was a May 2004 build and the current one is an October 2004 build. For all Digital TV and DVD input I use Expand.

The Motorola STB outputs 720p through it's DVI port and is connected with a HDMI cable that has a DVI connector on one end.

Our HTPC DVD player (TheaterTek) outputs DVI at 720p also and is connected to the DVI input on the TV.

I don't know if Comcast has ever activated HDCP flags in their signal (San Francisco Bay Area) so I can't speak to how our HLP set would react. All I can say is that the HLP has been in Expand mode for eight months except for those few situations where I've changed it myself.

I agree as well. I've never had an issue getting the Expand option. I owned the 1910 briefly and hooked it up through DVI. I had it on 720p and EXPAND.

Are you positive that the settings within the 1910 are set to 16:9? I got my 1910 a week before I got my TV and had it hooked up to my 4:3 TV. When I got my new TV, I forgot to change this and everything was all weird. I changed it to 16:9 and everything was fine. I ran DVE and overscan was minimal.

FYI: I got rid of the 1910 due to a green push in some dark scenes. I went with the Sammy 941 which has its own set of quarks but doesn't have the green push. From my research, every sub $300 upscaling player has some quark and you have to choose which quark you can live with. 90% of the time the 1910 was great but when I saw the green push it drove me crazy. Quite apparant in certain scenes of Lord of the Rings.

Originally posted by johnmont
What colorspace should be viewable on the 74W? I'm pretty sure of the answer, since I hooked up my powerbook at HD720 to it via DVI and the blacks are clipped at RGB(15, 15, 15)...anything under that is the same black.

I'm still trying to figure out whether the poor display of blacks on the 74W is due to the DVI/HDMI output of the DirecTV H10 or the input processing of the Samsung. The analog component inputs (from the same HD10) to the set are much better black-level wise and seem to display the full range of blacks. The difference in picture between the two is remarkable.


Can't find anything on the H10 thread about it and got 7 days to return the 74W if I don't find a solution.

I cannot speak to what it uses for a PC connection but I have ran blacker than black tests on the DVE disc through HDMI and DVI. If using a player that is capable of this, it easily passes these tests. So I don't think it would be a problem inherent to the 74 series. However, it could be an issue inherent to your particular TV.

Sorry I cannot help you more than that.

Originally posted by mchuckp
I agree as well. I've never had an issue getting the Expand option. I owned the 1910 briefly and hooked it up through DVI. I had it on 720p and EXPAND.

Are you positive that the settings within the 1910 are set to 16:9? I got my 1910 a week before I got my TV and had it hooked up to my 4:3 TV. When I got my new TV, I forgot to change this and everything was all weird. I changed it to 16:9 and everything was fine. I ran DVE and overscan was minimal.

FYI: I got rid of the 1910 due to a green push in some dark scenes. I went with the Sammy 941 which has its own set of quarks but doesn't have the green push. From my research, every sub $300 upscaling player has some quark and you have to choose which quark you can live with. 90% of the time the 1910 was great but when I saw the green push it drove me crazy. Quite apparant in certain scenes of Lord of the Rings.

I'm going to keep my fingers crossed that when I get home tonight I will realize something is not set to 720p and then will be able to use the expand setting. That would please me.

As far as I know, all player settings (which is two of them, one in the quick menu and one in the custom menu) are on 16x9.

Originally posted by mchuckp
I cannot speak to what it uses for a PC connection but I have ran blacker than black tests on the DVE disc through HDMI and DVI. If using a player that is capable of this, it easily passes these tests. So I don't think it would be a problem inherent to the 74 series. However, it could be an issue inherent to your particular TV.

Sorry I cannot help you more than that.

Well...thanks so much that is a great start. I'm glad to know that technically it is possible on the 74 series. What I'm trying to get to the set shouldn't even be considered blacker than black (I don't think), so your report is good news. If its a problem with my set at least I can get it serviced. If it is an issue with the H10, then I can find a DirecTV unit that outputs correctly.

I'm not going to sleep through the HDNet Test Patterns tomorrow, that's for sure.

Originally posted by johnmont
Well...thanks so much that is a great start. I'm glad to know that technically it is possible on the 74 series. What I'm trying to get to the set shouldn't even be considered blacker than black (I don't think), so your report is good news. If its a problem with my set at least I can get it serviced. If it is an issue with the H10, then I can find a DirecTV unit that outputs correctly.

I'm not going to sleep through the HDNet Test Patterns tomorrow, that's for sure.

They weren't on last week for some reason. I hope they are on. Thanks for reminding me. I need to set my DVR timer.

Originally posted by mchuckp
They weren't on last week for some reason. I hope they are on. Thanks for reminding me. I need to set my DVR timer.

I already set my timer, but they were not listed in the program guide. Are they ever?

Originally posted by JeffNebraska
I already set my timer, but they were not listed in the program guide. Are they ever?

Hmm...I know I have seem them on in the past and I know for a fact it was in the program guide last week. My DVR taped it and was labeled "TEST PATTERNS" and was on from 8-8:10. Hopefully they aren't taking them off the air. At least until I get them saved on disc.:)

You dont get the expand mode if you are using component do you? Just DVI and HDMI?

Craig

For anyone with a 3910 and the Sammy 5674 connected via HDMI: I had my display adjusted nicely using Avia. Tried DVE and could not get the display to "pass" BTB. No matter how much I turned up the brightness I could not visualize the BTB (3rd) bar in the pattern. I was able to adjust brightness so that the middle bar was barely visible and this setting was essentially identical to the setting arrived at using Avia.

I seem to recall several on this thread and/or on the 3910 owner's thread posting a similar problem. And unless I am hallucinating/imagining the lack of "passing BTB on DVE" was not a "big deal". (In DVE they do mention that some setups will not allow visualization of the 3rd bar (BTB bar).

I have my 3910 set on "normal" black and IRE = 0, 720p and HDMI, Y Cr Cb. Sammy set on Cinema mode, Expand, DNE off, DNR off.

Any advice from the experts with the same setup will be appreciated. :)

thanks

mismatched

Originally posted by calcraig
You dont get the expand mode if you are using component do you? Just DVI and HDMI?

Craig
That's what I understand. I haven't tried it myself, but others have.

Originally posted by mismatched
For anyone with a 3910 and the Sammy 5674 connected via HDMI: I had my display adjusted nicely using Avia. Tried DVE and could not get the display to "pass" BTB. No matter how much I turned up the brightness I could not visualize the BTB (3rd) bar in the pattern. I was able to adjust brightness so that the middle bar was barely visible and this setting was essentially identical to the setting arrived at using Avia.

I seem to recall several on this thread and/or on the 3910 owner's thread posting a similar problem. And unless I am hallucinating/imagining the lack of "passing BTB on DVE" was not a "big deal". (In DVE they do mention that some setups will not allow visualization of the 3rd bar (BTB bar).

I have my 3910 set on "normal" black and IRE = 0, 720p and HDMI, Y Cr Cb. Sammy set on Cinema mode, Expand, DNE off, DNR off.

Any advice from the experts with the same setup will be appreciated. :)

thanks

mismatched

Interesting that your 3910 will not pass BTB. I had a Denon 1910 and had no problems passing BTB via DVI. This player does not have HDMI. I traded it in for the Sammy 941 and it passes BTB using HDMI if it is set to 1080i. It fails on 720p, but this seems to be a problem inherent with the 941. Everyone else who has one and using totally different displays has the same issue. Seems to be a flaw in the 941 design that I am currently working with Sammy tech support on.

From my experiments with the two players I owned and testing out dark scenes, here is my conclusion:

If you cannot pass below black levels you will NOT notice a difference in PQ on many DVDs. I think a lot of films don't use black levels that low. However, on some DVDs will will DEFINATELY see a difference. If a DVD renders colors below black and you cannot display them, you WILL lose detail.

Here is an example of a scene that you WILL lose detail. In the movie TROY, there is a scene later in the movie after Achilles kills Hector and Hector's father comes to see Achilles in his tent to ask him for his son's body that Achilles took. During this conversation it is night and the tent is very dark. If your player cannot pass BTB, you will mostly just see black in the background. If your player can pass BTB, you will see lots of shadows and detail. This was easy for me to see since I know my player passes at 1080 but fails at 720, so I could watch the scene over on a different setting. It was night and day to me.

On the other hand, I tried the same thing in various scenes of Lord of the Rings and no matter how hard I tried, I could not see a difference. My guess is that levels below black were not used in these scenes.

If your 3910 cannot pass BTB, it has to be something wrong with your DVD player or some picture settings in your TV. Maybe even something in the service menu. Did you buy your 3910 from a local store? Maybe they can give you a loaner of a 2910 or something else to test for BTB. Or maybe you can take your 3910 into a store and hook it up and try it on a TV in the store. There must be something wrong somewhere. I think the 3910 product description right on Denon's website states the unit passes BTB. Also, it surely must if the 2910 and 1910 do.

Well..it is becoming clearer and clearer that the black level problems I'm experiencing on the HDMI input are related to the H10 DirecTV receiver and not my DLP. I'm moving this over to the H10 thread, but thought I'd post here as a "conclusion" or "almost conclusion".

Watched HD Net today and viewed:

1. The HDMI out of the H10 into the HDMI on my Samsung 74W series DLP
2. The HDMI out of the H10 through a DVI adapter into my Philips 230W LCD computer display
3. The analog component outputs of the H10 into the analog component inputs of my Samsung 74W
4. The DVI out of my Powerbook 17" into the DVI input of the Samsung 74W series DLP*
5. The DVI out of my Powerbook 17" into the DVI input of the Philips 230W LCD*

*For #4 and #5 I generated a 1280x720 Photoshop grayscale ramp image from RGB (1,1,1) to RGB(255). Display gamma was set to 1.0 to ensure I got the full rage. Color management was off.

Viewing #1 and #2, the black levels were clipped. The "10" was not visible on the set or the Philips display (see small attached image). On #3, the "10" was visible. I had brought brightness up considerably on all devices to make sure I was displaying the full signal range of blacks.

Viewing #4 and #5 -- the full range of blacks was visible on both of the displays. I'm not sure of what kind of conversion happens from the display output RGB, however. I suppose that the #4 and #5 tests might simply be generating the blacks that are above the "clippped level" for #1 and #2.

So from this and the comments from mchuckp about experiences with DVD, I think it is becoming safer to assume that the problem is with the output of the H10 and not the DLP input. I would not recommend purchasing the H10 for the reasons above.

mchuckp

Thanks for your feedback, which is partially encouraging (I dont want to watch Troy!! -- :D) but partially discouraging, because I like the 3910's sound and my Sammy!! I will contact my local store. They are a good group and let them try the BTB with similar equipment in their store. So you are saying if I have the rest of the settings nicely calibrated with the "beginners" menus on Aiva and/or DVE I should be okay? Except for certain scenes in certain movies??? I sensed a lack of detail in some scenes in the Bobby Jones flick last night after finding out that my system failed the BTB litmus test!!!

mismatched

Originally posted by mismatched
mchuckp

Thanks for your feedback, which is partially encouraging (I dont want to watch Troy!! -- :D) but partially discouraging, because I like the 3910's sound and my Sammy!! I will contact my local store. They are a good group and let them try the BTB with similar equipment in their store. So you are saying if I have the rest of the settings nicely calibrated with the "beginners" menus on Aiva and/or DVE I should be okay? Except for certain scenes in certain movies??? I sensed a lack of detail in some scenes in the Bobby Jones flick last night after finding out that my system failed the BTB litmus test!!!

mismatched

Yep. The hard part is that unless you have a reference it is hard to know if you are missing details in dark scenes. If you have a source like my DVD player it is easy to see because I can pass or not pass BTB with a push of a button. But unless there is a problem with your TV, it has to be the player. Here is a link to Denon's product description. Notice it states the 3910 passes below black. Again, there is no way this player is designed to fail BTB. I'm interested to hear what you can find out.

http://www.usa.denon.com/catalog/products.asp?l=1&c=4

Did the HDNet patterns play today?

I'm very anxious to have them and I recorded the slot on my HD Tivo, even though there was a random show on from 7:30 to 8:30, which suggested no test patterns would be shown.

Yeah...they were on today. Really helped me with my troubleshooting....even though I'm now depressed the H10 doesn't output correct levels on HDMI.

Originally posted by JeffNebraska
Did the HDNet patterns play today?

I'm very anxious to have them and I recorded the slot on my HD Tivo, even though there was a random show on from 7:30 to 8:30, which suggested no test patterns would be shown.

I wonder why your guide says it wasn't on. I have Time Warner Cable in Cincinnati and it showed up on my guide as being on from 8-8:10 as "HDNET TEST PATTERNS".

5674 model with Pincushion problem in 4:3 mode. Service out today, and was given option of replace light engine or replacment set. Taking the replacement set.

Originally posted by calcraig
You dont get the expand mode if you are using component do you? Just DVI and HDMI?

Craig

That's right, it is not an option when using components. Note that you can also get Expand and the associated 1:1 pixel mapping if you feed 1280x720@60Hz to the VGA input.

Originally posted by roland61970
5674 model with Pincushion problem in 4:3 mode. If it's only a slight pincushion, replacing it is not going to help.

I have an Samsung external Qam tuner hooked up to my 5674 to get HD in Chicago through RCN. I'm trying to decide whether to have the tuner set to 720p or 1080i when watching 1080i channels. Do you think the tuner or the tv would do a better conversion to 720p? I've tried it both ways and I think the tv does a better job. I know that CBS is 1080i but I'm not sure what other channels are. I think Fox is 720p. Does anybody know what ABC and NBC are broadcast in?

Originally posted by ks-man
Does anybody know what ABC and NBC are broadcast in?
ABC and ESPN are 720p and NBC and PBS are 1080i.

Originally posted by mchuckp
I wonder why your guide says it wasn't on. I have Time Warner Cable in Cincinnati and it showed up on my guide as being on from 8-8:10 as "HDNET TEST PATTERNS".

This is a bad sign. They did not play over my Directv Bay Area HDnet feed. Nor does that title appear anywhere in my TiVo directory. Can anyone confirm that they do sometimes play over DirecTv HDnet?

When I watch HD through my HD DirecTiVo (live or recorded), when images move quickly or the camera pans, I see A LOT of computer noise, such as pixelization or even blockiness. People's cheeks, for example, look like they're being rendered through an old time computer (sort of Andy Warhol-like).

I can't really imagine why this would be happening, but it happens on my clean antenna signals, as well as on my (perhaps) compressed Directv signals. It's almost like things have to stop moving to come into sharp focus. They look great when they do, but it's a problem when they don't. I'm a little afraid about HD football games, which I can't really try out right now.

Is my TV okay? Any chance switching from HDMI to component on my HR10-250 might allieviate this problem? Is this just one of the tradeoffs with the 4674, because I don't think I ever experienced this on my parents Sony GWIII.

Thanks.

Have you turned off DNIe and Digital NR. Digital NR in particular would definitely cause what you are seeing and DNIe could also contribute to it.

Originally posted by JeffNebraska
This is a bad sign. They did not play over my Directv Bay Area HDnet feed. Nor does that title appear anywhere in my TiVo directory. Can anyone confirm that they do sometimes play over DirecTv HDnet? I checked on HDNET's website yesterday. It shows up on the schedule for Tuesday 8am eastern, 5am pacific. I missed it yesterday, as I didn't compensate for different time zones (I live in Central) and will try to catch it next Tuesday.

Originally posted by Cheezmo
Have you turned off DNIe and Digital NR. Digital NR in particular would definitely cause what you are seeing and DNIe could also contribute to it.

DNIe and Digital NR are both off. I am in Cinema Mode.

Do you think something might be wrong? Is there a name for this problem? I take it others do not share this experience.

Is my idea about trying the component cables a waste of time?

One quick example. During the Grammys the other night, I turned it on as Anthony Lapaglia introduced the tsunami singers (i.e. norah jones, mick jagger, stevie wonder, allison kraus, etc.). I was marveling at the sheer beauty of Lapaglia's suit and tie and then the beauty of the singers themselves, but as the camera panned down the row of faces, their cheeks turned to pixelated messes.

It wasn't pretty.

Originally posted by Harplayr
I checked on HDNET's website yesterday. It shows up on the schedule for Tuesday 8am eastern, 5am pacific. I missed it yesterday, as I didn't compensate for different time zones (I live in Central) and will try to catch it next Tuesday.

It was not on at 5 am on my feed. I checked that in the TiVo guide also. The only possibility is that it was an unscheduled 5am broadcast under the name of a different show.

Originally posted by JeffNebraska
DNIe and Digital NR are both off. I am in Cinema Mode.

Do you think something might be wrong? Is there a name for this problem? I take it others do not share this experience.

Is my idea about trying the component cables a waste of time?

One quick example. During the Grammys the other night, I turned it on as Anthony Lapaglia introduced the tsunami singers (i.e. norah jones, mick jagger, stevie wonder, allison kraus, etc.). I was marveling at the sheer beauty of Lapaglia's suit and tie and then the beauty of the singers themselves, but as the camera panned down the row of faces, their cheeks turned to pixelated messes.

It wasn't pretty.

I see this on SOME programs, usually sporting events. I've seen basketball games on INHD that do it really bad but then I watch a different game on another night and it is pretty good. One night I was watching a game and everyone looked like they had clay faces through out the game. It was really annoying. Again, next night is fine. I've never really know if it is from the signal source or the fact that the TV cannot keep up with the fast rendering. Many programs I rarely ever see it and sometimes it is all the times. I've been blaming the source material which could be wrong. I also think these TVs have such a sharp picture that it is very noticeable as compared to other TVs.

I see it quite a bit watching American Idol. Picture is awesome and then the do a moderately paced pan across the stage and everyone goes blurry for a moment.

I'd be interested to know if everyone else sees the same thing and to know for sure if it is the display or the source. I don't like it but I've learned to live with it. I guess I figured if it was the TV I would see it all the time on all kinds of programming. I assumed it had to do with the bitrate of the program or something technical like that. If it wasn't, why wouldn't I see it on all time.

FYI: If I watch a DVD, it happens very, very rarely. It is usually just for a split second and a very fast scene. Most movies, I never see it at all.

By the way, I don't think going to component will help. I've seen it on both.

mchuckp

My bet is that it is mainly or solely a source issue. Suggestion: Stop watching American Idol!! :D

m

Originally posted by mismatched
mchuckp

My bet is that it is mainly or solely a source issue. Suggestion: Stop watching American Idol!! :D

m

Ha, ha!!! You are so right my man! I usually watch Idol just for the half wits in the try outs. That is some funny stuff!!!!! I did watch last night's but I've grown bored with the show now that the idiots are done. I think I'll go back to playing xbox!!!!

Can't wait for the Idol's mid-season "The Best of the Worst". Now that is quality programming!!!:D :D :D

Originally posted by JeffNebraska
This is a bad sign. They did not play over my Directv Bay Area HDnet feed. Nor does that title appear anywhere in my TiVo directory. Can anyone confirm that they do sometimes play over DirecTv HDnet? I recorded mine on Tuesday 2/1 5:00am PT from DirecTV channel 79 (HDN) with a title of "HDNET Test Pattern".

I do not see it on the guide for next week.

--Tim

Originally posted by mchuckp
I see it quite a bit watching American Idol. Picture is awesome and then the do a moderately paced pan across the stage and everyone goes blurry for a moment.

I'd be interested to know if everyone else sees the same thing and to know for sure if it is the display or the source. I don't like it but I've learned to live with it. I guess I figured if it was the TV I would see it all the time on all kinds of programming. I assumed it had to do with the bitrate of the program or something technical like that. If it wasn't, why wouldn't I see it on all time.

FYI: If I watch a DVD, it happens very, very rarely. It is usually just for a split second and a very fast scene. Most movies, I never see it at all.

By the way, I don't think going to component will help. I've seen it on both.

Thanks for the reply. Sounds like the exact same issue. I would blame it on DirecTv, but, as I said, it also happens over the antenna. Maybe it's just one tradeoff for this otherwise great set.

I'll try component to be sure its not a D/A conversion issue that can be solved internally by my hr10-250, but I just think it's more like a refresh rate issue. If it is, I'm kind of surprised that no one on this forum is talking about it. Maybe both our sets are defective in the same way, though that seems unlikely.

I also agree completely that I've never noticed the problem from my up-converting DVD player. Not sure why that would be true.

I'm eager to here others' experiences on this front, so keep the replies coming.

Originally posted by VegasTim
I recorded mine on Tuesday 2/1 5:00am PT from DirecTV channel 79 (HDN) with a title of "HDNET Test Pattern".

I do not see it on the guide for next week.

--Tim

DirecTv channel 79 is what I have also. Sadly, I did not have my unit up and running last Tuesday, and now there are no signs of an upcoming broadcast of this in sight.

This is such a useful utility, I'm surprised it's not on everday.

Btw, I receive an antenna channel that's called "HDNet Programming," and has more hi-def shows. Anyone in the Bay Area know what that's about?

Thanks.

why do you say that replacment won't fix the issue.

Do all of these sets have pincushion? Doesn't seem right!

Yes, they all have it. Probably a design issue with the lenses due to the tight angles required to keep the cabinet depth low.

Originally posted by JeffNebraska
DirecTv channel 79 is what I have also. Sadly, I did not have my unit up and running last Tuesday, and now there are no signs of an upcoming broadcast of this in sight.

This is such a useful utility, I'm surprised it's not on everday.

Btw, I receive an antenna channel that's called "HDNet Programming," and has more hi-def shows. Anyone in the Bay Area know what that's about?

Thanks.

I just searched the HDnet site and this is what I got:

Tue., Feb. 22nd 8:00 AM ET
5:00 AM PT HDNet Test Patterns
Wonder how your home theater is doing? Wish you had test patterns to help set it up? Well, HDNet is here to help. This short program will help you get the most out of your home theater setup by providing you with the same professional test patterns HDNet uses to set their gear.

I looked on my HD Tivo guide and the data for HDNet just hasn't populated for 2/22 yet. It says "Intro to HDNet". Wait a few days and I'll bet it will be there.

Cheezmo - I sent you a PM.

The board is quiet today.

Just wanted to bump back my original post in case anyone else can offer a response.

Thanks.

Originally posted by JeffNebraska
When I watch HD through my HD DirecTiVo (live or recorded), when images move quickly or the camera pans, I see A LOT of computer noise, such as pixelization or even blockiness. People's cheeks, for example, look like they're being rendered through an old time computer (sort of Andy Warhol-like).

I can't really imagine why this would be happening, but it happens on my clean antenna signals, as well as on my (perhaps) compressed Directv signals. It's almost like things have to stop moving to come into sharp focus. They look great when they do, but it's a problem when they don't. I'm a little afraid about HD football games, which I can't really try out right now.

Is my TV okay? Any chance switching from HDMI to component on my HR10-250 might allieviate this problem? Is this just one of the tradeoffs with the 4674, because I don't think I ever experienced this on my parents Sony GWIII.

Thanks.

Don't worry, it's not the set. It's the broadcasting companies that are compressing their signals too much. Usually more prevalent on 1080i signals during fast action/motion/flashing lights scenes. It's really annoying. 720p stations are usually much better.

How much is considered an "acceptable" amount of pincushion. I have about 1/4" or so on my 50" Sammy which does not seem excessive but is definately noticable.

What is pincushion?

pincushion is a bow effect ) ( . On my 56" the is about 1/2 inch indent
from the top to the middle then back out. Could be a little less than 1/2.
Like I stated above, it is not that bad, but now that I have noticed it, it is a bit distracting. Also when in wide screen mode you can see it if there are straight vertical lines, like the side of a building, or a window on the screen near the edges. Kind of like a fisheye lens.

Did the price just go up on the 4674? TV Authority's forum member's price just went up about $500. Did Samsung raise the MSRP?

Originally posted by HuskerHomer
Did the price just go up on the 4674? TV Authority's forum member's price just went up about $500. Did Samsung raise the MSRP? I see the same price as it has been for several months.

--Tim

I have a month-old HLP4674. I am connecting my PC to the TV using the DVI input and the TV is in Expand mode to allow 1-1 pixel mapping. I'm using an nVidia video card. How do I reduce the overscan so I can see the contents of my system tray more clearly? The nVidia drivers allow you to automatically do this, but it sets the desktop resolution to 1177x662 (not a valid resolution that you can create yourself with the nVidia drivers - only multiples of 8 are accepted). However, this resolution creates too much underscan (1.5 to 2 inches of unused screen around the edges).

I've read that users of HLM and HLN models can choose resolutions like 1240x702 and select 'centered output' to achieve minimal overscan. I believe this is because their TVs have a maximum resolution of 1280x720. However, this is not possible with the HLP4674 because the driver detects the TV as having a maximum resolution of 1920x1080, so centered output would only fill the center portion of the screen. I've tried these resolutions (1240x702 and others) and tried 'monitor scaling' and 'fixed aspect ratio', but none of these work.

Has anyone been successful in getting 1-to-1 pixel mapping with minimal overscan on the HLP4674 or HLP5674 sets in Expand mode over a DVI input? If so, how did you do it?

I've searched through these forums several times and haven't found an answer that applies to the HD2+ sets.

I have my DVE disk, my new 4674, my new DVD player (Toshiba SD-v592) and am ready to work. A logic question.

It appears that I can save settings for three modes (Cinema, Standard, and dynamic) for each of the video inputs. Is this correct? If so, since I am only calibrating on the HDMI input, do I just transfer the same settings across all the other modes and inputs? It seems that all I can really set is the DVD/TV combination. Am I missing something here?

BTW, the picture is great. I used the settings mentioned on this thread earlier with everything reduced. The DISH demo channel shows how good the picture can really be. It also shows off how much better C-band is than DBS for SD material.

Thanks,
Mike

Copying the settings from the HDMI settings to the other modes and inputs will probably not do what you want. There are two many differences in how all the different input types are handled with regard to black level, color levels, etc. You really need test patterns for each type of input to adjust them properly. I know that in some firmware revisions, the default (reset) values for the Standard mode are even different on different input types.

Kastagir,

I could get entirely rid of overscan and keep the 1:1 pixel mapping (using Expand as well) on my HLP5674. So far I have only tried the VGA input, but it could (should?) also work for DVI. Here are some details on how I did it, using a "resolution in a resolution" via powerstrip.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&postid=5022903#post5022903

I ended up with a 1240x697 resolution in 720p timings.

Question:

I just viewed the test pattern on HDNET using the same settings that I had set up with DVE. The picture look great; the colors looked right as did the gray scale; the convergence test was good.

However, on the overscan test, my unit seemed to be off considerably. The announcer said that I should see the number four line on sides. Clearly the test pattern was shifted to the left. I barely had any lines showing on the left and almost all on the right. So what is overscan and what is the real impact on my viewing?

Originally posted by Mike K
Clearly the test pattern was shifted to the left. I barely had any lines showing on the left and almost all on the right. So what is overscan and what is the real impact on my viewing?My 4674 was off too. I went into the Service Menu to shift it both up and to the right.

BTW, here's a nice article by Steve about the HDNet overscan pattern:
http://www.smartcalibration.com/hdnetoverscan.html

--Tim

Originally posted by mismatched
For anyone with a 3910 and the Sammy 5674 connected via HDMI: I had my display adjusted nicely using Avia. Tried DVE and could not get the display to "pass" BTB. No matter how much I turned up the brightness I could not visualize the BTB (3rd) bar in the pattern. I was able to adjust brightness so that the middle bar was barely visible and this setting was essentially identical to the setting arrived at using Avia.

I seem to recall several on this thread and/or on the 3910 owner's thread posting a similar problem. And unless I am hallucinating/imagining the lack of "passing BTB on DVE" was not a "big deal". (In DVE they do mention that some setups will not allow visualization of the 3rd bar (BTB bar).

I have my 3910 set on "normal" black and IRE = 0, 720p and HDMI, Y Cr Cb. Sammy set on Cinema mode, Expand, DNE off, DNR off.

Any advice from the experts with the same setup will be appreciated. :)

thanks

mismatched

mismatched, I'm no expert but, why don't you use IRE 7.5? According to some, the difference in choosing 0 or 7.5 is merely whether you can get your setup to pass BTB. I've tried 0 and it's too dark and at 7.5 can pass BTB. Might be worth a try...

P.S. How did you come to setting IRE to 0? It was too dark for me and seems for you too...?

mayhew

thanks for the suggestion but the IRE setting is not the problem here. Have tried both settings as have others. Several people are reporting failure to pass BTB and it is the 3910 and not the display. So far 4 people who have chimed in and with units with build dates of June 04 experience NO problem passing BTB. 4 or 5 people with build dates of June, Sept or Nov 04 (mine) have 3910 units that will NOT pass BTB. In some cases the no pass people were able to get BTB with a 2910 or with a June 04 build 3910 on the same display...

And people have tried different inputs, setting IRE to 7.5 etc.

if you are interested go to the following thread and page back several pages for the results of my "polls". Including "image proof" for the problems...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=5220919#post5220919

My 4674 is a couple of weeks old and I think it is a terrific set. Had a couple of scary moments, but it turned out to be loose wires in my Component Switching Box. Now I have trouble with my new Comcast DVR, but hope the service call will fix their problem.

While screwing around with inputs, I did split the Cable Signal to go directly to the Coax in on the Sammy. The SD via the Coax is significantly better than what the STB, outputs via the DVI (or Component).

Why is this so?

Thanks in advance and I do love this board.

ok, .... the shoe has dropped. This was a TVA purchase. Samsung's in-house call in warranty in place. Here goes.

I have taken a bit of a setback with my 2 month old 5674 set and I'm settled down somewhat. Somewhat , .........

Here is the ugliness from last Tuesday ( Feb 8th, 05).

Upon power up 12 days ago I got a slight whining sound from what sounded like the color wheel. Three days of difficult power ups ( 5-8 attempts over 25 minutes) finally got the set functioning and looking good and normal. Yet, I would get a RGB digital like line patchwork of colors ( hard to explain ) superimposed over the image during 2 of those numerous powerup attempts.

Not a good sign. I was nursing this set for two days and then it finally didn't show an image at all. Deep doo doo for me. Lamp was ok, audio was ok, yet no image. I'm thinking light engine as the lamp light out of the left back side of the set was on. Couldn't really be the color wheel. Plus, I pressed the Menu button ( Moto STB aside, at this point) and got no text signal on the screen. Sure sign of a bad light engine (in hindsight).

So, I call SAMSUNG service and get a CSR gal who gives me a 10 digit "Transaction number" and the name of the ASC company in CT. She says call them and give them this number. OK. I call the company the next day , and the day after, and receive no call back. Two days later I call Samsung service again and the guy says your Trans # is good..... give them another call. I do.

Another day passes and no call from the ASC company in CT. Now I call Samsung again asking if they gave me a lame ASC working out of a pickup truck. They say he is a reputable company and maybe he is busy. So I call the ASC company in CT AGAIN and he says I can't help you without a faxed work order number ( my Transaction # from Samsung).

Now I call Samsung again and some guy says that the 2 previous CSR reps I spoke to did not send a fax to the CT ASC authorizing a service call. I am WTF at this point, but the guy seemed in control and said he would handle it. I'm cool with that.

So, I call the CT ASC the next day and ask him if he received the work order fax from Samsung. He says no. I call Samsung again and tell the CSR guy that answers that, I am " sick of farting around with you guys " for openers on the call. He hangs up on me. OK. Re-group. Ten seconds later I get another guy who pulls up my Transaction # file and sees the damage, I think. He seemed nonplussed and said he would re-fax the Transaction work order # to the CT ASC and get it going. At this point I was hoping for victory. Can only go up from here.......

He concludes our conversation by saying that he would call me personally within 3 hours (or at least when he confirmed the receipt from the CT ASC) on my home phone to confirm that the CT ASC actually received the work order fax. I never received the call . I am not surprised at this juncture.

I called Samsung again and some gal said that the ASC received the faxed work order Transaction # that afternoon. At that point I was shot and just waited for the CT ASC to call me. He did the next day.

I am awaiting a service call this Thursday. He has pre-ordered a new light engine. Crossing my fingers. He sounded like he was keen on the Sammy DLP's, new model and all.

I love the 5674 set when it works. As far as SAMSUNG service, it comes up so short it is barely enough for me to repress profanities.

The Samsung CSR's seemed all nice enough, but it took me well over a week to even schedule a service call. That is pitiful.

So, if you have to deal with Samsung service, make sure that your CSR knows that they have to FAX the Transaction/Work Order # to the CSR/Field Tech company before anything gets in motion.
I could go on and rail against Samsung but for what. Perhaps just my bad expereince, but just be keen on the pitfalls when you buy internet. You will be subject to the corporate service mentality. And it is not always pretty.

But the saddest comment here in this post is that this 5674 is a 2 month old set and it crapped out with a bad light engine. Just pissy engineering.

Originally posted by BOK123


I love the 5674 set when it works. As far as SAMSUNG service, it comes up so short it is barely enough for me to repress profanities.

The Samsung CSR's seemed all nice enough, but it took me well over a week to even schedule a service call. That is pitiful.

So, if you have to deal with Samsung service, make sure that your CSR knows that they have to FAX the Transaction/Work Order # to the CSR/Field Tech company before anything gets in motion.
I could go on and rail against Samsung but for what. Perhaps just my bad expereince, but just be keen on the pitfalls when you buy internet. You will be subject to the corporate service mentality. And it is not always pretty.

But the saddest comment here in this post is that this 5674 is a 2 month old set and it crapped out with a bad light engine. Just pissy engineering.

Is the isssue Samsung, or more the thrid party local person they have as a tech?

It seemed to me that from my dealing with Samsung USA, that they were very prompt, friendly and nice. The lady I talked to even called four days later after I contacted her to say "We have not heard from you/nor did you fax us your receipt yet" "Just making sure you have not forgoten and we need it to move beyond this point" I was very impressed. I told her that I have been super busy with work and the next day I faxed it over (a saturday) and then that monday I had a call from the local tech, I was shocked it was so quick, he even came out that day (in a Samsung van). He saw my screen was bad and ordered a new one and the next monday it was in.

I think Samsung can better control their own people verse a third party, like is used for field work. I can't recall, did you contact Samsung and tell them about this? perhaps they need to find a new local person to use?

now that I have jixed myself by telling you that my service went well, I'll see what happens...LOL

Good luck, Matt

Matt,

The numerous Samsung tech people I spoke to were very friendly. No problem there.
My problem with them was that they did not notify the third party tech via fax, which is their policy I was told. Two people said "call the tech and give him this transaction #". They should have actually sent the work order fax to the tech, and then called the tech directly to make sure he received it. They did neither and left me holding the bag. They blamed it on their computer which sends out the faxes.
When I spoke to the third party tech he said he does not do any warranty work without a work order fax from Samsung. Period. It was then I called Samsung and told them this tech is not getting a work order fax from you people. From there is took 3 more days to actually get Samsung to re-send the work order fax - and actually have them call the third party tech to see if he actually received it.

Samsung didn't even call me back, as they said they would, to verify that the third party tech finally received the fax. I had to call them yet again and verify that the tech got the fax.

And once the third party tech got the fax he called me promptly, twice in fact, to have me verify the menu screen not coming up. He went ahead and pre-ordered the light engine.

Maybe I just had a worm hole experience with Samsung. Don't know. It was just so frustrating dealing with them after I had read such great things about their efficiency.
As for a 2 month old set crapping the bed ? Makes me wish I went for the Mits.

Gottcha. Hope it all works out. Perhaps I was a little luckier then normal and you a little (lot) then normal. I think Customer Service is about the same in most line and devices, you have a common denominator, low paid people that are there for a check. Reminds me of cell phone comapnies, they all have issues and they all have their weaknesses. Look for one that meets your needs for service and coverage and thyen realize in most cases that if you go to antoher manufactuer/verndor, you have have the same issue, not have that issue but get a whole new mess of beefs, or both.

I wish companies had a phone number or email address you could contact with real feed back. Most don't you get an "avergage joe" that says they will pass it on and it stops there. I tried to log a complain with Sprint, there was no other way to do it correctly according to them except to write a letter to their complaint dept. I has to be snail mail (no email) and you have to send it. So they make it about next to impossable. I guess they want it to be more trouble then it's worth IMHO?

I wonder if they flaged your account? That is why even when I am totaly hacked off, I wait a while and call and be all mister nice guy (yet stern) other wise they just shrug you off I think and they also put stupid notes in the account too.

So everything is on cource now, right? What a bummer, I was just bragging about Samsungs customer service to a friend, I guess they are no different. Hope you have a happy ending on Thursday! Post the results.

I guess I am taking this off topic a tad, I'll PM you if I have more..

Best of luck, matt

Hi Folks,

I'm about to pull the trigger on purchasing the Sammy HL-P4674W. I'm very nervous about this being that Ive never seen the actuall set in person.

I'm purchasing thru TVA and have the Power Buy quote with delivery and 5 Star service. I forgot to ask what the length of warranty is on this set. Can anyone fill in that blank?

Are there any current/up to date issues, minor/major concerns that i need to be aware of?

Originally posted by shuttermaker
Hi Folks,

I'm about to pull the trigger on purchasing the Sammy HL-P4674W. I'm very nervous about this being that Ive never seen the actuall set in person.

I'm purchasing thru TVA and have the Power Buy quote with delivery and 5 Star service. I forgot to ask what the length of warranty is on this set. Can anyone fill in that blank?

Are there any current/up to date issues, minor/major concerns that i need to be aware of?

I had to do kind of the same thing, no 4674s that I could find to be seen in the Twin Cities area. However, I could and did find some 5674s to look at, and the 4674 is all but identical to it's bigger brother. So that eased my mind a bit.

As far as issues and concerns go, the only real issue I've heard about is the rainbow issue, and that's not limited to the 4674s, any currently available single-chip DLP solution has the possibility of rainbows. As long as you can return your set within a month or so (and as I remember TVA you can), you should be fine.

Scott

Is the difference between the Sammy 4674 and the 4663 like night and day? For 700 dollars in price difference i would like to think so.

shuttermaker

In a high end video store side by side with the same signal the 74 blew away the 63 and finalized my decision! Love my 5674 and no longer am thinking about a ~$700 difference!! :D

m

PS you can find other posts earlier in this thread that ditto my message

Re: rainbows. My experience is that if you are a nervous shifty eyed type person always moving your eyes quickly while watching images with bright portions you will see those rainbows. And if you have your Brightness set too high the rainbows will be more apparent. So relax and adjust the brightness appropriately and you will be able to live with the occasional rainbow.

The deed is done. Placed my order for the Samsung HLP4674W. I ordered from TVA, got a great deal that included free shipping, AVS Power Buy, and front door delivery.

Its scheduled to ship on 3/04/05.

Woo Hoo ! Any suggestions on a DVD player?

My 5674, ordered through the TVA AVS member deal, appears to be on its way. Delivery should coincide perfectly with our move into the new house. Woo hoo for me too!

I too am very close to buying the 4674. I went to my local Magnolia Audio Video store which is the only place close that has them. I was very impressed. It is a little worrisom to me to spend so much money on a TV with any possibility of problems however. I also have one TV and will be giving my old one away so the issues of not having it work are pretty large to me.

Magnolia says they will price match any authorised dealer so I plan to play the deal game with them. The biggest price issue is sales tax since i live in Washingon State (8.6%). If I purchased from TVA I would still have to pay it and same goes with a few other .com stores.

What do you guys think about the extended warranty? It seems like it might be worth it only if it covers the bulb.

I was told by TVA that i could wait 9 months to purchase the extended warranty...which is a lot longer than i needed..i will probably wait for the first 30 days to go by ...then purchase it...the 4674 thru TVA has the 5 star rating so i can return it for whatever reason during that 30 days

They have a 3 year lamp replacement warranty for 129.99 but i passed on that...hope it wasnt a mistake.

Got my 5674 yesterday and all I can say is WOW. DVDs look great, can't wait to get HD service installed next week. Can't even complain about the $$, got a great deal since I work for TI.:D

Originally posted by Hogs25
Got my 5674 yesterday and all I can say is WOW. DVDs look great, can't wait to get HD service installed next week. Can't even complain about the $$, got a great deal since I work for TI.:D


TI ?

Originally posted by shuttermaker
TI ?

Texas Instruments

Originally posted by Hogs25
Got my 5674 yesterday and all I can say is WOW. DVDs look great, can't wait to get HD service installed next week. Can't even complain about the $$, got a great deal since I work for TI.:D

ooooh wee

now we know who to call when, I should say IF, we have any problems with the guts of our 74s!! :D

Originally posted by mismatched
ooooh wee

now we know who to call when, I should if we have any problems with the guts of our 74s!! :D

LOL. The DLP group is in the same building that I am. Atleast I don't have to go far if I have a stuck mirror.

OK, I've had the 4674 for almost a week now. I have a few questions.

1) Service Menu. What the hell am I supposed to do in the SM other than check the lamps hours? The SM is so confusing I wouldn't know where to start. Is there any guides to the SM?

2) Discrete codes. Kind of confuses me. Assuming I know nothing about what discrete code are and how to use them, how can I education myself?

3) Picture Modes. When using the picture modes such as Cinema, are any settings other than Contract, Brightness, Sharpness, and Color being changed?

4) Calibration. I have AVIA but have yet to use it to calibrate. How come some many folks with the same model end up using different pictures settings after using AVIS to calibrate? Should we all end up with about the same setting numbers assuming all else is equal?

5) Edge Enhancement. I understand how to spot EE on DVDs. From what I've read Tombstone and The Phantom Menace have some of the worst visible EE known to man. This results in halos or ghost like lines around edges. I do see this with these DVDs but also see them with A Bug's Life CE which I'm told I shouldn't see any in that DVD. My Sony NS-725P DVD player is currently connected to my DLP via Component. I do plan to pick up a new DVD player that has a HDMI output to utlilze an all digital connection. Why am I seeing EE on A Bug's Life? Is it my connection type, my picture settings, or something else? I have turned off all picture adjustment setting on the DVD player itself. And although I haven't yet used my AVIA disk, I have adjusted my pictures setting similar to other posters. In case anyone here wants a reference point in Bug's Life, I can see EE pretty easily around Dot's head at the point where Flik is giving her the speech about pretending the rock is a seed and will become a tree someday. Sorry, don't have the exactly time point handy.

I've had my 5674 for about a month and a half now, and am very satisfied with it. Saw one rainbow after about 10 straight hours of TV viewing (two NFL playoff games, including pre- and post-game shows, plus some DVD viewing afterwards) and that was only in a scene when the characters were uslign flashlights in a tunnel.

I also just got a Fujitsu 42" ED plasma and my comparison of the two is basically that the Sammy has a better picture in terms of resolution (the Fujitsu has some "snow" in shadowed areas that's leading me to consider trading it for a panasonic ED, although I wonder if this is just a feature of plasma technology), while the Fujitsu has better blacks and MUCH brighter pic (even with brightness/contrast turned down to avoid premature burnout).

All in all, except for the fact that the Sammy is dimmer than the Fujitsu, I am happier with its picture.

Originally posted by salaryman


All in all, except for the fact that the Sammy is dimmer than the Fujitsu, I am happier with its picture.

are you using the Cinema, standard or dynamic mode? try different modes. If I recall correctly Cinema is the least bright mode meant for evening viewing. Could be wrong but try the different modes. And have you calibrated using Avia??

I've discovered something that I don't recall being posted wrt the Sharpness UM setting.

From what I can tell it only sharpens the DNIE picture, so if you have it on, it increases the sharpness...while at the same time increasing EE. If DNIE is turned off, it doesn't look like Sharpness does anything.

This is good, at least for me, because I like DNIE, but I didn't like how much EE it introduced to the picture. That's because I didn't change the Sharpness from default (which is pretty high, 60 or 70 I believe).

With DNIE turned off I feel the picture is too soft. Now I've turned it back on, set my Sharpness to 25-30 and I think it looks great.

FWIW, I don't recall the Sharpness setting working this way on my HLN567w.

I got a 4774. I've been learning a lot from this forum.
Now I'm in the process of finishing with my Sony RM 3100 set up.
I got a RS 15-2116. I had had almost all the discrete codes that I need to work and "dumped" into the Sony.
But the one discrete code that i need the most DVI does not work !
Should I return the RS and get a "lower" model number but more powerful in order to teach my Sony RM?
I already google remotecentral and hifiremote, any suggestions?

Just talked to tvauthority this afternoon. My 5674 is on the truck and scheduled for delivery on Tuesday. I'm starting to drool . . .

This one was weird. I've had the 5674 for about 3 months now and experienced my first problem. When I tried to watch a HD feed the video went black. Now normally when I go from SD to HD the TV takes a second to 'readjust' the feed. What was happening was that it would never come out of that adjustment. If I turned the TV off and then back on with a HD channel the TV would show the picture but soon as I went to a SD the HD would never come back. I had no problems viewing SD. I've got a Samsung TS360 and tried both local HD and DirecTV HD. My resolution... unplugged the set for several minutes and then fired it back up. Seems to of corrected it? Hope this doesn't happen again! Anyone else out there see this?

Well, have an update on my 2 month old 5674 after my light engine was replaced a couple of days ago.
Service tech ( in home warranty from Samsung) was prompt, good, knew his stuff, had experience, and was just a good guy to chat about the state of the state regarding HDTV sets.
He has his preferences on sets to work on ( has been at it for 30 years !) and prefers the Samsung HDTV's due to their modular and logical design for ease of access. Said the Mits DLP's are "dropping like flies" in his service area.

He was in and out in 30-40 minutes even though this was the first 74 he had seen.
He knew the guts and immediately upon a glance at the light engine he took out of the next-day'd replacement box, said this 74 was a hybrid. HLN looks but HPL layout but with a new arrangement due to HDMI/DVI inputs showing a different design schematic. Or something along those lines .....

Anyway, he checks the menu signal appearing on the set ( it was turned backwards facing the wall, not my room, due to the need for access to the back of the set) and pronounces it ready to roll. He takes the old engine ( the new one had a price tag of $1350. if one has to pay out of pocket, ouch !)
and is off.

Viewing time ......... watched ESPN HD, Discovery HD that night and shut it down. No DVD viewing that night.

Next day (Friday night) I fire up the Fifth Element Superbit for a systems check. Immediately upon viewing the opening credits ( black background with text credits rolling) I see a 3"x3" ( I measured) circular globe, a perfect circle, an eclipsed moon (my first thought) on the middle right side of the display. Hmmn.... odd, don't remember seeing this in 5 Element before.
Check this on Master and Commander and back to TV to see if it is the DVD source. Nope, the circle is permanent.

Called Samsung warranty and said I had a circle on my display now after the new light engine swap-out. I gave him alll the details.
Appears to be inherent in the DMD internals with the new engine. Could be dust, an imperfection of some sort, which is being magnified onto the display in a perfect globe.
Got a call from the service company today and he has ordered another light engine. He had even mentioned such an occurance happening within the DMD enclosure - which we were talking about before he put in the replacement. I remember him saying it is rare, but can happen in the factory if QC is not tight. Something got in there and it is now permanently displayed on my screen.
At least I have an image to watch while I await a replacement engine. On regular TV viewing it is almost impossible to pick up. How many times does regular TV exhibit dark full screen images ? It could have taken me days/weeks to see this if I only watched TV.

The saga continues.......

For those still considering the 74, it appears that TVAuthority has adjusted the price in our favor.

http://www.tvauthority.com/orderform.asp?dept=41&prod=3131

WOW!

Was planning on purchasing from Tweeter. Sort of afraid to make internet purchase thinking I may get a previous set that has been repaired instead of a recently manufactured model. I seriously think I will buy from TVAuthority now as long as I can be guaranteed a set with a new build date. Will be making the plunge on the 5674 sometime this week.

Wow!, what a price.

Does anyone have the link for the $200 rebate if you purchase a Samsung DLP and install HDTV digital cable?

http://www.onlycablecan.com/samsung/

Here is the link I had forgotten so THANKS.

( I searched this thread for $200)

I just bought a 4674 and signed up for HDTV.

Unfortunately, it appears I am a bit too late for the $200 rebate as per this info on the Sammy website:

...". Purchase an eligible Samsung TV* and sign up for HD Cable Service between 10/17/04 through 2/05/05."

Oh well...I got a great deal on an open box set returned for a 5674 by a customer of Magnolia who only had it 2 days and decided he wanted the larger screen....My cost was substantially less than the AVS price at TVA and the savings from Maggies price almost paid for their 4 year Service Plan...so I am pretty happy about it, notwithstanding being 3 weeks late for the rebate!

I will be watching my new 4674 from a standard height couch with my eye level about 32" above the floor in my usual "slumped posture" with my feet up on the coffee table and my head against the back of the couch!

My set will be in a custom made cabinet (about 2 weeks away from being completed) that has the TV shelf at 25" above the floor. Taking into account the 30" overall height of the set (consisting of the 8" base and the 22" height of the screen itself) this puts the center of the screen at approximately 44" above the floor.

From my reading of the info on DLP sets, the vertical viewing axis is VERY important regarding the percieved brightness of the picture. I checked this at the store where I bought it and there is much less tolerance for vertical viewing angles than horizontal, where brightness fall off isn't a really big issue until you get maybe 45 degrees off center or so.

Degradation of the picture at vertical angles above or below o degrees is quite noticeable and becomes an issue at anything more than 10 or 15 degrees.

I will be sitting with my eyes about 7' (84") from the screen. My question is this:

Given the 84" distance between my eyes and the screen, will the 12" difference in height between my eye level and the center of the screen be something that will be noticeable and if so, what is the best fix?

The only thing I could think of was to shim the back of the cabinet with rubber or plastic furniture pads so as to tilt it at an angle that provides the best picture quality when I am on the couch.

I wouldn't think this would be a problem to do as long as the amount of shimming was small, which it would be for the distances involved.

What experience do any of you long time DLP owners have with this whole issue of the vertical angle between your eyes and the set? What, if anything, have you done to correct or overcome this problem...or do you just turn up the bright level and live with it.

Thanks for any help or advise you can give me.

Re Vertical viewing angle

My 4674 is 3 in off the floor and sitting upright on my couch my eyeballs are about at 40 inches. This puts my eyes even with the top of the screen.

Viewing distance is 11 ft.

I added a 3/8 X 1 inch black painted strip at the bottom and this helped.

Suggest you try your setup "as installed" and see the difference at different heights then make simple adjustments with shims or whatever.

Just think it's worth saying, my 4674 and HD Tivo blew my and my guests' socks off last night with the academy awards. After having watched last year on my parent's Sony GWIII, I must say this was MUCH better. It looked absolutely fantastic.

There was a small amount of pan / blurring and I did have a little white crush on the right edge of Chris Rock's tie, but overall, the image was a 10 out of 10.

I'm so happy my set is getting into the no-more-tweaking zone, so I that I can finally sit back, relax, and enjoy it. Watching the set is definitely much better than studying it, so I'm pleased to be reaching this stage.

Incidentally, I'm backlighting with an old aquarium light and a 6500k bulb from my local pet store, and that really kicks the picture up a notch.

I just got my 4674 yesterday in time for the Oscars from Manolia. Mine is in a cabinet which is 30" h and I think we have the sofa about 9-10 feet back. It is a reasonably tall sofa and we don't have any angle issues I think as long as you are within the top and bottom of the screen it will be fine. Of course middle is better.


My wife seems to be noticing some rainbows. I only see the occasionally. I am hoping we will get used to them. I particularly noticed them with a small, bright planet in the starfield from Star Wars on the screen. The bright object created the rainbows.

SD tv was not nearly as bad as I had expected. I am very pleased overall. On some stations there are lines that travel up the screen that are pretty noticable. I haven't checked to see if fine tuning will remove them.

Originally posted by forttusken
I just got my 4674 yesterday in time for the Oscars from Manolia. Mine is in a cabinet which is 30" h and I think we have the sofa about 9-10 feet back. It is a reasonably tall sofa and we don't have any angle issues I think as long as you are within the top and bottom of the screen it will be fine. Of course middle is better.


My wife seems to be noticing some rainbows. I only see the occasionally. I am hoping we will get used to them. I particularly noticed them with a small, bright planet in the starfield from Star Wars on the screen. The bright object created the rainbows.

SD tv was not nearly as bad as I had expected. I am very pleased overall. On some stations there are lines that travel up the screen that are pretty noticable. I haven't checked to see if fine tuning will remove them.

If you have lines traveling up the screen, can I assume that is coming from analog cable? I don't think you would see such things on digital SD or HD.

As far as the rainbows. Maybe try and not give up too easy. My wife saw a couple the first few days and has not seen them since. I barely saw something on day 1 that I thought was a rainbow, but not totally sure. All is great now!!!!

Originally posted by chuckip
Degradation of the picture at vertical angles above or below o degrees is quite noticeable and becomes an issue at anything more than 10 or 15 degrees.

I will be sitting with my eyes about 7' (84") from the screen. My question is this:

Given the 84" distance between my eyes and the screen, will the 12" difference in height between my eye level and the center of the screen be something that will be noticeable and if so, what is the best fix?




This configuration (7 foot distance, 1 foot elevation difference) represents an 8.1 deg angle, so if you believe the 10-15 deg maximum, you should be OK.

I just checked mine and I think you will be fine if you are betweenthe top or bottom of the screen. It seems to be better to be lower than above the screen.

Lines
I don't have HD yet and the lines are only on a few SD channels. They aren't horrible just a bit annoying. Seem to be on CBS and NBC mostly.

I couldn't see the price at TVA for the 4674, If it is lower than the deal I got at Magnolia then I might want to price match. They have a 60 day price match guarantee.

just ordered my 5674 today! I hope to have it up and running by the weekend. I have a couple of questions. How many of you DLP owners are using a UPS to protect the bulb in case of loss of power? If so, what are you using? If not, what are you using? One last thing, I read this entire thread a couple of times after I had pretty much decided on the 74 series, but could someone point me to some settings of other owners? I know, I know...my settings will be different, but I would still like to see what settings others are using. Thanks.

Was searching around the forums for a replacement for hlp6163. Had ghosting problem with picture. Service threw every new part in it that they could but nothing helped. Was maybe interested in a newer model sammy possibly the 74. I don't have time to read this entire thread and was wondering if someone would be so kind as to give me the rundown on problems/complaints and pros of the newer models. I would love to spend the time to read on AVS but my 2 and 5 year olds are pulling at my pantleg as I speek. Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions.

OK, I didn't know exactly where to post this, but as I found some people using similar remotes in previous posts in this thread, I thought I'd ask it here.

I just received my Logitech Harmony 680 remote and think it is awesome. I've added all my components (HLP5674W, xbox, PS2, DVD player, 8300HD PVR) and just about everything seems to work perfectly. The only problem I'm having is when I switch to another input on the TV (say the xbox), then try switching back to the DVR, it doesn't seem to have the correct discrete code for the HDMI for the HLP5674. It correctly switches directly to the component inputs, but even when going to the "help" button, it doesn't seem to send the correct signal (and thus won't change source).

Anyone know a fix or know what I'm doing wrong?

Originally posted by Lampei
OK, I didn't know exactly where to post this, but as I found some people using similar remotes in previous posts in this thread, I thought I'd ask it here.

I just received my Logitech Harmony 680 remote and think it is awesome. I've added all my components (HLP5674W, xbox, PS2, DVD player, 8300HD PVR) and just about everything seems to work perfectly. The only problem I'm having is when I switch to another input on the TV (say the xbox), then try switching back to the DVR, it doesn't seem to have the correct discrete code for the HDMI for the HLP5674. It correctly switches directly to the component inputs, but even when going to the "help" button, it doesn't seem to send the correct signal (and thus won't change source).

Anyone know a fix or know what I'm doing wrong?

Two suggestions - one would be to call Logithech - from what I've heard their support is excellent. The other would be to PM Mismatched - he loves his Harmony and may be able to help you out. Or perhaps he'll just chime in here.

Originally posted by Brian Boe
Was searching around the forums for a replacement for hlp6163. Had ghosting problem with picture. Service threw every new part in it that they could but nothing helped. Was maybe interested in a newer model sammy possibly the 74. I don't have time to read this entire thread and was wondering if someone would be so kind as to give me the rundown on problems/complaints and pros of the newer models. I would love to spend the time to read on AVS but my 2 and 5 year olds are pulling at my pantleg as I speek. Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions.

The bigges pro is the chip. Most folks (not all) prefer the HD2+ to the HD3. Sharper, higher contrast ratio. True 1280X720 - one mirror per pixel. I personally love the thin-bezel look, and the center channel shelf is a nice convenience as well.

Problems (of which I have experienced none, knock on wood) are the same as any other Samsung models - audio sync, screen smudges. But take all complaints and praise with a grain of salt - go have a look at one and if you like it, go for it.

Originally posted by Lampei
OK, I didn't know exactly where to post this, but as I found some people using similar remotes in previous posts in this thread, I thought I'd ask it here.

I just received my Logitech Harmony 680 remote and think it is awesome. I've added all my components (HLP5674W, xbox, PS2, DVD player, 8300HD PVR) and just about everything seems to work perfectly. The only problem I'm having is when I switch to another input on the TV (say the xbox), then try switching back to the DVR, it doesn't seem to have the correct discrete code for the HDMI for the HLP5674. It correctly switches directly to the component inputs, but even when going to the "help" button, it doesn't seem to send the correct signal (and thus won't change source).

Anyone know a fix or know what I'm doing wrong? You might want to verify your model number and see if it is a HLP5674WX. If it is, change the model on your Harmony configuration page -- it may have a different discrete code for the HDMI input (just a guess).

--Tim

Originally posted by Lampei
OK, I didn't know exactly where to post this, but as I found some people using similar remotes in previous posts in this thread, I thought I'd ask it here.

I just received my Logitech Harmony 680 remote and think it is awesome. I've added all my components (HLP5674W, xbox, PS2, DVD player, 8300HD PVR) and just about everything seems to work perfectly. The only problem I'm having is when I switch to another input on the TV (say the xbox), then try switching back to the DVR, it doesn't seem to have the correct discrete code for the HDMI for the HLP5674. It correctly switches directly to the component inputs, but even when going to the "help" button, it doesn't seem to send the correct signal (and thus won't change source).

Anyone know a fix or know what I'm doing wrong?

Lampei

I had problems with input switching also on my 5674, from HDMI (DVD player) back to DVI (STB). I strongly suggest calling them at your convienence. Their hours are generous, until 10PM EST on weekdays if I recall and good hours on Sat and Sun also. They can fix this and most any other issue that you come up with. It is very convienent to have a computer close at hand during the conversaion, e.g. a laptop. These guys (and gals) are good and polite and patient. Are they really support staff?? :D

Or you can try emailing them (customerservice@harmonyremote.com) with your problem and they will get back to you with instructions which usually are to update your remote via your computer. This has worked for me on several issues whereas the input thing required a phone call. That however may have changed because they are aware of the XX74 switching issue.

good luck and enjoy that nice 680

Originally posted by Brian Boe
Was searching around the forums for a replacement for hlp6163. Had ghosting problem with picture. Service threw every new part in it that they could but nothing helped. Was maybe interested in a newer model sammy possibly the 74. I don't have time to read this entire thread and was wondering if someone would be so kind as to give me the rundown on problems/complaints and pros of the newer models. I would love to spend the time to read on AVS but my 2 and 5 year olds are pulling at my pantleg as I speek. Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions.

I will only say that I almost sprung for a XX63 but heard rumors of the upcoming XX74s and am SO GLAD that I waited. I somewhat nervously placed an order for a 5674 without even seeing one. When a 4674 came in I raced down to the store to see it, side by side with a XX63. Both hooked up to the same source and there was no comparison. The 74 was sharper and brighter and the colors looked more natural. This plus the tiny footprint of the set elicited a big sigh of relief. Go for it!

PS. You will hear about rainbows. Some people see them more than others. I see them but less so now that I did DVE and Avia adjustments which lowered my brightness setting relative to the factory default.

hope this non-technical post helps

mismatched

Originally posted by Brian Boe
Was searching around the forums for a replacement for hlp6163. Had ghosting problem with picture. Service threw every new part in it that they could but nothing helped. Was maybe interested in a newer model sammy possibly the 74. I don't have time to read this entire thread and was wondering if someone would be so kind as to give me the rundown on problems/complaints and pros of the newer models. I would love to spend the time to read on AVS but my 2 and 5 year olds are pulling at my pantleg as I speek. Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions.

I didn't have my whole life to devote to reading threads and browsing stores when I chose either. I got turned on to the xx74 for the narrower body and the HD2+ chip. I've never looked back. The set looked very god in the store, with only, maybe, the Sony XS LCD sets looking better. But since the XS were way too big for me, I pulled the trigger.

Now that it's home, it looks fantastic! I am thrilled with the picture and have no feature complaints at all. I'm confident, now that I've tweaked it, this is the best choice in this slightly elevated rear projection price range, and, if width matters to you as much as it did to me, there's not even another reasonable option to consider.

If saving $700 means more to you than the best picture, as it does to many sane people, than this is definitely not the cheapest alternative. But if you've got the cash, I think this set is a great choice. Sharper, brighter, punchier plasma-like image, greater color saturation, and, imho, a far better looking body.

Originally posted by VegasTim
You might want to verify your model number and see if it is a HLP5674WX. If it is, change the model on your Harmony configuration page -- it may have a different discrete code for the HDMI input (just a guess).

--Tim

Do you know where the model number is located on my TV for me to check?

Originally posted by mismatched
Lampei

I had problems with input switching also on my 5674, from HDMI (DVD player) back to DVI (STB). I strongly suggest calling them at your convienence. Their hours are generous, until 10PM EST on weekdays if I recall and good hours on Sat and Sun also. They can fix this and most any other issue that you come up with. It is very convienent to have a computer close at hand during the conversaion, e.g. a laptop. These guys (and gals) are good and polite and patient. Are they really support staff?? :D

Or you can try emailing them (customerservice@harmonyremote.com) with your problem and they will get back to you with instructions which usually are to update your remote via your computer. This has worked for me on several issues whereas the input thing required a phone call. That however may have changed because they are aware of the XX74 switching issue.

good luck and enjoy that nice 680

Cool. I'll give them a call later (this was my second option...I was pleasantly surprised they actually said "give us a call if you're having difficulties" right on the instruction manual :))

Originally posted by Lampei
Do you know where the model number is located on my TV for me to check?

Should be on the right side sticker above the contol panel (where the serial # is).

Guys, would you please carefully check your focus, especially on the far right side of your screen.

On my 4674, the focus rapidly deteriorates in the last 3-4 inches on the right. This is best seen when using a PC to display sharp black text on a white background (1:1 pixel mapping via DVI). This was never a problem with my HLN. Also, chromatic aberration looks considerably worse than it did on my HLN. (Chromatic aberration is color separation due to lens refraction, particularly visible at the extremities of the image).

In the attached photo, you can see how bad the focus becomes on the far right. It has nothing to do with the camera, because you can see the edge of the screen in sharp focus.

Just a couple of inches to the left of this, the focus is near-perfect, aside from the chromatic aberration (greenish separation to the left, reddish to the right of the black text). See the attachment in the next post. Both of these images are cropped from a single large photo.

Is it just my set, or ALL of them?

Gary

Better focus a couple of inches to the left (with chromatic aberration).

no focus problem that I have noticed at the borders on my 5674 with either my STB (DVI) or DVD player (HDMI).

Originally posted by Lampei
Cool. I'll give them a call later (this was my second option...I was pleasantly surprised they actually said "give us a call if you're having difficulties" right on the instruction manual :))

I agree that you should call them. It would be the easiest. My guess is that you need a time delay set between your TV input and your STB when you switch back from another source. The HDMI input won't even show up as an option for input unless it recognizes that a signal is attached to it. The signal must be on. My guess is that it is attempting to switch your input first or at the same time not giving it time to recognize the HDMI device. If you talk to them on the phone, they can put in a time delay that turns your STB on first then waits momentarily before switching your input.

This is just a guess. I think you can try it on the website in the advanced controls but they can fix it on the phone easily for you.

If it is something else, please post back. I'm curious.

I have the Harmony 676 and LOVE IT!

Originally posted by mismatched
no focus problem that I have noticed at the borders on my 5674 with either my STB (DVI) or DVD player (HDMI). I did not notice any problems with my DVD player via DVI, but it was instantly noticeable with fine text from the PC via DVI.

Gary

Lampei

as pointed out by mchuckp time delay is a factor. My experience with Harmony on this very point was that they insisted that I try a 25 sec time delay. This was much too long and unnecessary. I think this long delay was based on older model Sammy's which required a 20+ sec delay to accept an input switch command. I convinced them to change it to 10 sec on a later call (or perhaps I did it myself as per mchuckp's suggestion above??:D ).

m

Thanks everyone for all the help. I ended up calling tech support and Oliver walked me through the setup of the HDMI. Apparently the HDMI was set to hdmi input 2 (as we all know there's only 1 HDMI input on our TV :)), so he switched it to HDMI 1 and it works great now. My Xbox FRAG'd :(, but that's a whole other story. Anyway, thanks for everyone's help.

Hi all,

I posted this question on the main Rear Projection site with no response. Hope you guys can help since you have helped me over the months to make my HDTV decision.
Here is a copy of my previous post. Thanks!

Samsung Purchasing from TVAuthority
Gentlemen,

First I would like to thank all who have posted on this forum since I started reading last April. Your questions and answers have helped me greatly in deciding my home theater purchases. I thank you all.
I'm planning to purchase the Samsung 5674 from TV-Authority and would like your experiences with delivery and whether the sets are recent build models. Are sets being shipped with the new screen and is the 5674WX model the latest model.
If any of you have purchased from the east coast, how long did delivery take. Cammy, if you're reading this post, I hope you don't mind me checking with fellow AVS members. Hope to talk to you soon.
Any info from you guys would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

James

Originally posted by ScubaCruiser
... and whether the sets are recent build models or sets that were repaired and reshipped.

Where did you get the idea that TVAuthority would ship used sets as new? I'm sure that if you looked hard enough you could find someone shipping such product -- probably through EBay.

Are sets being shipped with the new screen and is the 5674WX model the latest model.

The "smudge" problem effected some screens from those supplied by one manufacturer. I don't think anyone knows for sure which sets in the pipeline have that problem, but if you get a screen with the "smudge" problem it's an easy fix.

The "X" is a figure of mystery. ;) I don't know what it means.

Thanks for responding HT,

I've never ordered anything this expensive on line before and have heard horror stories from other companies. I believe TVAuthority to be a good company, but the prices just seem to be too good.
Been waiting many months to select the right HDTV and you were one of the few that have been most helpful to myself and to many others. I probably worded my post wrong. I planning to go on vacation in a couple of weeks, but hoping to get the set before I leave. Finally got the cash to purchase the set and want to buy before cash disappears (my wife may beat me to it).
Thanks again for the response and hope others can chime in and they can chew me out too for the wording of my post.

Originally posted by ScubaCruiser
Thanks for responding HT,

I've never ordered anything this expensive on line before and have heard horror stories from other companies. I believe TVAuthority to be a good company, but the prices just seem to be too good.
Been waiting many months to select the right HDTV and you were one of the few that have been most helpful to myself and to many others. I probably worded my post wrong. I planning to go on vacation in a couple of weeks, but hoping to get the set before I leave. Finally got the cash to purchase the set and want to buy before cash disappears (my wife may beat me to it).
Thanks again for the response and hope others can chime in and they can chew me out too for the wording of my post.

I bought my 4674 from TV Authority and have had zero problems (always have to say knock on wood when I say that). No smudges at all.

While we commonly refer to the 74 series as the 46(56)74, the full official model code for the 74 series is 46(56)74WX/XAA. That is what the model code reads on my serial number sticker. I got one of the first ones available in TVA's first shipment last October, so I don't know if the model number has changed, but the "X" has always been there.

Originally posted by ScubaCruiser
TI've never ordered anything this expensive on line before and have heard horror stories from other companies.

Me either.

So have I.


TVAuthority has special prices for AVS members. They have been AVS sponsors longer than I have been coming here. They have done two major power buys of Samsung DLP sets for members and now seem to frequently have good prices for members.

There are hassles related to buying on the Internet but TVAuthority seems to be trying their best to overcome as many of them as possible.

I bought our set locally because I wanted a one to one relationship with the seller. It turned out that I picked my "seller" so well that he was just promoted to manage his company's "flagship" store in another state. Now I have to find a way to build another "one to one" relationship. :rolleyes:

Thanks tjk and ht.

I was working one on one with someone from Tweeter, but I can save about $400-$500 if I buy from TV-Authority.

Anyone know how long for delivery on east coast.

Originally posted by VladDracul
Using DVE I ended up with brightness at 32. I connected my 2910 via DVI.

Your brightness setting will directly depend on what you have done with the black level in the Denon DVD players settings. If black is "on" (or something like that, I'm at work now and don't recall the exact terminology), the brightness setting will be much much lower than if black is "off".

Originally posted by htwaits
I bought our set locally because I wanted a one to one relationship with the seller. It turned out that I picked my "seller" so well that he was just promoted to manage his company's "flagship" store in another state. Now I have to find a way to build another "one to one" relationship. :rolleyes:

You sound lonely. Don't you have a wife? Relationships with electronics salesman may sound nice but I for one don't like to negotiate in person. I'd rather do it over the phone or via e-mail. Not to mention that a large majority of electonics salesman I've met barely knew what they're selling so I put little stock into any real communication with them. Home electronics seems to be more transactional based selling with price being the key factor and service a close 2nd. Salesman's charisma is last on my list for buying decisions.

Originally posted by Jamers
You sound lonely. Don't you have a wife? Relationships with electronics salesman may sound nice but I for one don't like to negotiate in person. I'd rather do it over the phone or via e-mail. Not to mention that a large majority of electonics salesman I've met barely knew what they're selling so I put little stock into any real communication with them. Home electronics seems to be more transactional based selling with price being the key factor and service a close 2nd. Salesman's charisma is last on my list for buying decisions.

That was an unnecessarily rude response.

Don't you have a wife Jamers? Your manners could do with some improvement.

Originally posted by Jamers
You sound lonely.

I do?

Don't you have a wife?

Only one -- for the past 42 years.


Relationships with electronics salesman may sound nice but I for one don't like to negotiate in person.

Maybe you frequent the wrong sort of establishments. By the way, who said I "negotiate"?

I'd rather do it over the phone or via e-mail.

That's how I buy new cars. :)

Not to mention that a large majority of electonics salesman I've met barely knew what they're selling so I put little stock into any real communication with them.

My "salesman" was the store manager. I bought from him because I liked the way he took care of his customers after he had their money. It must have worked for him too because now he is managing his company's biggest store.

Home electronics seems to be more transactional based selling with price being the key factor and service a close 2nd. Salesman's charisma is last on my list for buying decisions.

Where are you finding TV salespersons with "charisma"?

Jammers
I agree that your response is rude.

Perhaps I understand why you don't like dealing in person when you can insult people without having to face them using the internet.

It was a little rude Jamers

Originally posted by ScubaCruiser
It was a little rude Jamers

Particularly since htwaits has helped out more people on this board than I can count.

My next question to him is what's the secret to a 42-year marriage?:D

Alcohol... the higher the proof, the better... at least that's what my wife tells me. :)

Regs,
Jeff, 5 year marriage vet.. and loving every minute of it

Originally posted by tjk
My next question to him is what's the secret to a 42-year marriage?:D
Stay away from the "new model" forums. ;)

I could have bought from TA too, but I too have a one on one relationship with a good salesman (unlike most sale people that you can tell are lying due to their mouth moving, this guy will say if he doesn't know something and get back to me, verse the crock-o-bull). The local guy here is also so good, he will some be the manager of the store I go to. WE have a joke that I have to come to the store once a month to buy somehting. My wife was there one day and told him that she many have to go over my head and tell him to not sell to me if I get out of hand...LOL we all three laughed.

I also wanted to keep the money local per se. Wanted someone I could see face to face and have an easy swap incase somehting it worng. Plus with the 30 day no questions asked and 60 price match (Brick and mortor) I was happy. I guess the extra $300 was worth it for me, and no, I don't light cigars with $100 billls.
FOr what it's worth and my 2-cents, Matt

I chose a local B&M (Good Guys) because, after bargaining, their price was nearly equal to the best I'd seen on the web (though I'm sure the web guys also would have bargained further) and I wanted the local accountability in the event of a problem.

For me, buying big ticket items on the web often entails selling a headache. They give you three hundred bucks, you take your chances with complications.

I want to chime in here as well, as I was faced with exactly this choise within the last week.

I, like most of us, for quite a while, had been thinking about, dreaming about, browsing the net etc for an HD capable big screen TV to replace my eighteen (as in 18!) year old "Ultra Legacy" gear!

One of the big decisions was should I buy at local B&M merchant or on the net.

I split up my purchases, buying the Reciever, Speakers, Remote and Headphones on-line for MAJOR savings over the B&Ms but I ended up buying my Sammy 4674 from Magnolia.

I had a quote, then a re-quote, from TVA and the last re-quote this past weekend, which was a nice drop in price, almost got me to order from them. But, the salesman (I would really call him an A/V Consultant) at Maggie was SO helpful and impressed me by sitting down and drawing out a very complex wiring diagram for all my units in about 5 minutes.

He also agreed to come to my house to do the install/set up/training AND follow up calls himself rather than to send his crew, who are probably capable as well. This sealed the deal! Yes, I know some of you techies are thinking...."why couldn't you just hook it up yourself?" Maybe I could have, but one look at the back of my Denon reciever and that was that! Of course, I have to pay for the installation etc, but to me it is worth it.

I could have just bought stand alone installation services from Maggie, but I felt that they had earned and deserved more of my business, so I bought my TV from them, as well as the Power Cleaner and all necessary cabling/wiring.

Then I was told that I was eligible for BBs "Reward Zone" plan and will get almost $150 in vouchers for future use. This cut the difference in pricing to where it was small enough to become much less of a factor.

So YES, most definitely, a "relationship" with a salesperson, especially for a 62 yr old " non-nerd" when it comes to such a complex new A/V set up, IS worth alot and can clearly effect your decision as to where to make your purchase.

Chill guys, I guess sacasim doesn't translate well to text. I was simply trying to point out that most, including myself don't put much value on the B&M salesman. It's been stated by others over and over in this forum. If HTWAITS had a good one then I applaud him and feel his loss. Now as for buying a car over the internet, I guess that's OK assuming you have already test driven the car and know which one you want.

In most metro areas you can find a good local store that will give you a good price and service. I agree that if the price differential is "only" $300 stay local!!

Originally posted by htwaits
Stay away from the "new model" forums. ;)
I'll be married 20 years come this September. I have to say that this was one of the best lines I've ever read in this forum (and completely accurate BTW!).

Originally posted by chuckip
Yes, I know some of you techies are thinking...."why couldn't you just hook it up yourself?" Maybe I could have, but one look at the back of my Denon reciever and that was that! Of course, I have to pay for the installation etc, but to me it is worth it.

Everyone has their level Chuck.

I LOVE hooking things up in my living room and savor the sight of a ridiculously complex receiver back panel or a remote control with a seventy page manual. However, I'm no fan of going up on my roof (which I did last weekend), running wires down the sides of my house, and drilling into walls and down through floor boards (which I also had to do last weekend), so I often pay someone to do those jobs for me.

The job can often be just slightly more perfect if you do it yourself, but sometimes plain-old good is good enough.

Either way, enjoy your new gear!

OK! EVERYONE READING THIS THREAD OR HAS WRITTEN ON THIS THREAD READ: Breath in, Breath out....(jk ;) ) Feel better now? Still have the AVS fever? Understandable! I do as well :)

I have been mentioned from the start of this thread to this close to 100 pages of this thread-TIME for me to chime in :) I'm glad that SCubacruiser, TJK (many thanks to TJK-our first preorder of the HLP4674W), Brett walker, jamers, Stewee, Organized, ChuvaKuhn, FIJIMAN, D-Nice..now matter what you have purchased thank you all for posting great things on my service to all of you. Not to mention all of you Avid AVS readers that would be more than happy to post on here but are more into the reading than posting (As I have done myself until lately). (Those I have not listed above please understand there is many of you but that does not mean you are forgotten!).
My service is here to build more than just a sales relationship with you but more into the AV relationship as well. I'm here even after you have purchased whether its 6 months or a year from now. It's only a 1888 call away with full and direct access to plenty online resources to answer your question or concerns.
As for Chuckip, I wish I would have had another chance to talk to you over the price adjustment on this series or a returned phone call to the messages I left for you. You can still email me and let me know what you think of the set-after all I'm an AVS member too :) and would be more than happy to hear how things are going for you.

My only hope it to make you all happy with the experience you have with us here at TV Authority. As we all know not everything goes as we all hope all the time-nor does it at any business. We can strive for the best for you all and apologize for the mistakes and move on....Bottom line we hope your time with us is better than taking the trip to a local store that does not know what DLP is or how Faroudja works..that you feel more than satisfied to talk with someone that knows what you are talking about and wants to offer you excellent service with a great price.

All the programs that we offer are all from feedback from all the AVS members on what they want from online companies. I know we are not superman and can not fly your TV to you (well, maybe we all can request that "beam me up technology" from Samsung..lol) or install the RGB and other connections to your TV-we can atleast call you to assist you with that (we are here for that).
I'm off my soap box now...I wanted to let you all know thank you for the feedback and the posts and there is nothing better than letting all the other AVSers why to purchase online vs. B&M stores (after all you are going online-might as well look online since you are there! Rather than take another long trip to your local BB for more potential frustration with the educated or uneducated AV sales personel there). Thanks SCubaCruiser for your time and TJK for teaching me persistance with all the AVS guys on there....Keep up the posts!

Cambryn Courson
TV Authority (female) Sales Consultant :)
cambryn@tvauthority.com
1.888.286.5353 ext.520 <---don't delay call me today :)

Originally posted by chuckip
I want to chime in here as well, as I was faced with exactly this choise within the last week.

I, like most of us, for quite a while, had been thinking about, dreaming about, browsing the net etc for an HD capable big screen TV to replace my eighteen (as in 18!) year old "Ultra Legacy" gear!

One of the big decisions was should I buy at local B&M merchant or on the net.

I split up my purchases, buying the Reciever, Speakers, Remote and Headphones on-line for MAJOR savings over the B&Ms but I ended up buying my Sammy 4674 from Magnolia.

I had a quote, then a re-quote, from TVA and the last re-quote this past weekend, which was a nice drop in price, almost got me to order from them. But, the salesman (I would really call him an A/V Consultant) at Maggie was SO helpful and impressed me by sitting down and drawing out a very complex wiring diagram for all my units in about 5 minutes.

He also agreed to come to my house to do the install/set up/training AND follow up calls himself rather than to send his crew, who are probably capable as well. This sealed the deal! Yes, I know some of you techies are thinking...."why couldn't you just hook it up yourself?" Maybe I could have, but one look at the back of my Denon reciever and that was that! Of course, I have to pay for the installation etc, but to me it is worth it.

I could have just bought stand alone installation services from Maggie, but I felt that they had earned and deserved more of my business, so I bought my TV from them, as well as the Power Cleaner and all necessary cabling/wiring.

Then I was told that I was eligible for BBs "Reward Zone" plan and will get almost $150 in vouchers for future use. This cut the difference in pricing to where it was small enough to become much less of a factor.

So YES, most definitely, a "relationship" with a salesperson, especially for a 62 yr old " non-nerd" when it comes to such a complex new A/V set up, IS worth alot and can clearly effect your decision as to where to make your purchase.

Chuck --

Your post put a tear in my eye... We built TVAuthority on relationship building, and AV tech know-how. Nothing is more frustrating to us than when a customer spends 60 minutes on a telephone call with one of our sales reps like Cambryn, and then asks us to price match a digital camera Brooklyn guy who wouldn't know a DLP if it bit them in the ass.

In today's day and age, when your able to find a good salesperson at a B&M, consider yourself lucky! Although I wish we earned your business, I respect your acknowledgment of service and hope you enjoy your new TV.

Let us know what you think!

Cambryn,

I thank you for your help today. Even though we are on 2 different coasts, it was as if I were sitting on the other side of your desk having a friendly conversation and working out some good pricing.

To the rest of you AVS members, thank you for your helpful post.
I took the plunge today for a 5674 and can't wait to enjoy what you guys have been enjoying.
Special thanks to mismatched, tjk, Paul_PDX,htwaits,Cheezmo,Scpanel and many others for your helpful posts.
I tell you, Cambryn was great to work with, friendly, cheerful, and you'd be surprised at the TVAuthority pricing for AVS members especially if you were buying other electronics at another site to beat TVAuthority's price. Don't believe the posted pricing on the internet site. Talk to Cammy and do one stop shopping from your chair. I will still do store shopping to keep our locals working, but when it comes to saving a few hundred dollars (and keeping my wife of 30 years happy), I'll talk to Cammy.
Again, thank you all for your posts and keep them coming.
Will keep you informed.

James

Originally posted by ScubaCruiser
Again, thank you all for your posts and keep them coming.
Will keep you informed.

James
You're welcome James. :)

Dear Cammy and Neil:

Thank you both for your consideration in your responses. I am a salesperson myself, working strictly on commission, so I deal with issues like this every day.

I will say that my several conversations with Cammy were professional and helpful and by that alone, I would recommend TVA to any prospective purchaser of the products they sell.

As I pointed out clearly in my post, the decision re where to buy my 4674 was VERY close indeed.

I am sure that the salesperson at Maggie that I bought from is the exception and NOT the rule. I know this from buying other items...in fact, I had initially been dealing with a salesperson at another Magnolia store in the area regarding my Home Theater purchases and left in disgust at his inadequate degree of knowledge about this complex subject. I asked him for a list of the connections I would need (at that point, I was still thinking about a "self install")...he gave me a list that turned out to be incomplete in such a major way that about a third of the required cabling was left out! Even being the newbie I am to this level of gear, I recognized myself that something seemed to be missing...He also gave me vague answers about some of the concerns I had...about the usual "rainbows", "smudges" and "audio sync" questions that are noted on this site in such detail (all this, btw was BEFORE I discovered the AVSForum or TVA)...

This bad experience led me to go a few miles up the freeway to another Magnolia imbedded in a BB where I was most fortunate and lucky to meet a salesman who had operated his own independent high end AV store and also had experience in custom Home Theater installations. Consequently, he is NOT your typical B&M salesperson by any means..

I am a fan of buying electronics on line as I noted in my initital post on this subject...

Were it not for this "once in a lifetime (?)" chance of finding such a person in a big B&M retailer, and my feelings that I wanted him to get credit for a sale of a major item, I would have certainly bought my set from Cammy...

I will certainly consider TVA for any future purchases and wish your organization good luck and plenty of business!!

I've just calibrated my 5674 using Cinema mode. Here are the results:

HDMI (HD TiVo and calibrated using the HDNet Test Pattern):
Color 45
Brightness 57
Contrast 96

DVI (Denon 1910 and calibrated using DVE):
Brightness 44
Color 46
I couldn't figure out how to adjust contrast for a DLP - Can anyone help?

Component 1 (LiteOn DVD Recorder and calibrated using DVE):
Brightness 45
Color 42
Tint not yet calibrated
See above re contrast

Anyone have any thoughts?

After months of research, I finally settled on a DLP set. I was interested in the Samsung 64-series, so I went to my local Tweeter to see it in person. The set didn't disappoint and I was definitely impressed by the PQ. I was less than thrilled though by the price and their salesman's reluctance to negotiate on the warranty.

Fortunately, I found out about TVauthority on this forum and was able to get a great deal on the HLP4674W model. I am anxiously awaiting the delivery of my set next week.

For those of you who have ordered from TVauthority, what was your experience with their shipping? Will they bring the set into your house and wait to make sure everything is working properly? Seeing cammy's earlier post certainly boosts my confidence in TVauthority's customer service. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that my TV will arrive in good condition!

Originally posted by vpn75
For those of you who have ordered from TVauthority, what was your experience with their shipping? Will they bring the set into your house ...

You should ask TVA. Even if TVA is paying for in house delivery, some truckers will try to avoid it.

... and wait to make sure everything is working properly?

That's no more likely than UPS waiting to see if a product they deliver will work. TVA has to work with shipping companies.

It's not like a local store that delivers, sets up the TV, and then makes sure you can get a picture.

While Samsung has a 6 segment wheel in the xx74 series now, is there any indication that they will go to a 7 segment wheel in the future? Way back I heard that the 6 seg was just early in the run with 7 to come later, but I get the feeling from the discussions that many feel it will stay 6 segs. Also, what is the favorite DVD player with this unit?
Walter

walterp

6 segment wheel, 7 segment wheel?? I don't know or care. All I know is that my 5674 is awesome! Just ask my wowed friends who have been over for a movie or two! Oh, and my darling wife who had predicted that spending "so much" on a TV could not possibly be worth it. For once she was wrong and admitted it!!
:D

mismatched

Originally posted by walterp
While Samsung has a 6 segment wheel in the xx74 series now, is there any indication that they will go to a 7 segment wheel in the future?

I've seen no indication that the HD2+ chip, which gets it's color wheel (6 elements) from the HLNxx7 models, will be in future models. That doesn't mean it won't happen, but it seems to me that Samsung backed off from a new light engine design (seven element color wheel) for the HLPxx74 sets. It also seems to me that Samsung came very close to not doing the HLPxx74 models at all.

Way back I heard that the 6 seg was just early in the run with 7 to come later, but I get the feeling from the discussions that many feel it will stay 6 segs.

Both of your recollections agree with mine. :)

Also, what is the favorite DVD player with this unit?

I would look for a good upscaling DVD player. There is a monster thread in the DVD Player forum about the Panasonic model with information about the Sony DVP-N975V.

The Perfect Vision issue for March/April has their DVD player annual recommendations. They think the Denon DVD-2910 is very good. It's MSRP is $679. It's seems to be the only one, except much more expensive sets, that doesn't have some kind of problem.

The Perfect Vision article concluded that they couldn't recommend the Samsung DVD-HD941 (MSRP $350) for several reasons including PQ via HDMI. The did like it's feature list for the price.

I think the Samsung DLP sets benefit from DVI or HDMI input from an upscaling DVD player.

I'm doing that from my PC so I've never tried a newer DVD player with our HLP5063.

as per the Honorable htwaits: "It also seems to me that Samsung came very close to not doing the HLPxx74 models at all."

Well... I believe that there are several of us who are happy that Samsung did do the 74 models!! :)

walterp,

As htwaits has mentioned, the Panny upconverting player has many happy users, and the new Sony is loaded as well. Check out the DVD forum for the in- depth.

I, and quite a few 74 users, use the Denon 2910 player. For a lot less than the more costlier 3910, it provides solid video performance with few issues. Some complain of lingering MB and grain, but I have not seen these complaints as major issues with my 5674. Some discs exhibit more of these elements than I think we knowingly are aware. Not to say the 2910 is even close to flawless, its not. But for middle road money it is hard to beat.

I recently moved to v-7 on the 2910 and liked the upgrade despite early user reservations about the "improvements". Not all things are earth movers, especially new version releases on DVD players.

I also recently placed 3 Mapleshade Ultimate Triplepoint brass footers under the 2910 and was very impressed with the response from the player ( I use it as a transport). As in many thing with this hobby, its the small and positive increments which better a components performance. That's the fun part.

If you can get your hands on the 2910 I would definately recommend it with the Sammy 74.

Originally posted by mismatched
Well... I believe that there are several of us who are happy that Samsung did do the 74 models!! :)
No doubt about it, and if Samsung has been listening to HLPxx74 owners they will continue development of HD2+ light engines. Of course that would mean that TI must continue to produce HD2+ chips in sufficient numbers.

I don't know how any of that actually works. :rolleyes:

The Sony 975 is a great upscaling DVD player for only $250, and it plays SACD's too! I use HDMI to my 4674 and it is awesome. The problem the player was having seems fixed. Mine went to Larado and back. new firmware 1.90. Looks fantastic.

Originally posted by oregonstitch
The Sony 975 is a great upscaling DVD player for only $250, and it plays SACD's too! I use HDMI to my 4674 and it is awesome. The problem the player was having seems fixed. Mine went to Larado and back. new firmware 1.90. Looks fantastic.
That's great to hear. The reviewer in The Perfect Vision article couldn't get HDMI to produce a good image unless he connected the 975 to a Sony display. I don't know if he made the problem known to Sony.

When watching DVD's I am getting audio sync issues. They are not consistent even on the same DVD. In some scenes it is very noticeable and distracting. Any Ideas?

I am using a JVC DVD player set to 720i with component output, I haven't changed that setting yet to see if it makes any difference. I don't know if my receiver has any settings for delay. It seems fine most of the time so I doubt it would help if it did.

Originally posted by forttusken
When watching DVD's I am getting audio sync issues. They are not consistent even on the same DVD. In some scenes it is very noticeable and distracting. Any Ideas?

I am using a JVC DVD player set to 720i with component output, I haven't changed that setting yet to see if it makes any difference. I don't know if my receiver has any settings for delay. It seems fine most of the time so I doubt it would help if it did. All upconversion solutions have a large amount of video processing to do, so the video lags the audio by a small amount. However, the Faroudja deinterlacer/scaler chip (in the player, or the TV) causes some pretty long video delays.

Gary

Originally posted by htwaits
That's great to hear. The reviewer in The Perfect Vision article couldn't get HDMI to produce a good image unless he connected the 975 to a Sony display. I don't know if he made the problem known to Sony.

I'll second the Sony 975 recommendation. It looks absolutely fantastic, high-def on many DVDs, using 720p upconvert over HDMI. I've had no issues with it regarding image quality (ie, Macro blocking, green push, etc...). I highly recommend it, especially for the price vs. the Denon.

I have an interesting problem with the 4674. I really want to get it, but my cabinet opening is fixed at 40 1/8" and the area behind the bezel is 40 1/2. Does anyone have a suggestion as to some way to reduce the width behind the bezel by a half inch? Can the left side panel be removed and still have things work? I can live with the 4674 sticking out about an inch but 3 or 4 inches would look very weird.

My 5674 finally arrived, and so far, I am very happy. First, customer service with TVAuthority was very good. The delay in the set's arrival seems to have been the responsibility of the shipper, SEKO, coupled with SEKO's laziness in updating their website to accurately reflect tracking status.

So far, connected to the 5674 is:
SA8300 HD-DVR, from Time-Warner Cable Kansas City (HDMI connection)
Sony SAT-T60 DirecTV/TiVo box (S-Video connection)
Gateway Connected DVD player (Component connection)

The 5674's internal speakers are muted, and all sound is routed through a Pioneer VSX-D710 (I know, I know - that's probably the piece that's next in line for upgrade). Speakers are Onix Rocket ELT LRSse fronts, Center Channel, and SW-10se subwoofer. The surrounds are the Altec Lansing's the previous homeowner left behind - so far, I haven't been able to find a decent place to put the second pair of LRSse's to use as surrounds.

I probably need to upgrade the DVD player. I'll have a modified XBox connected to the set shortly to handle the computer media playback that the Gateway player was handling. But for now, that was the best progressive scan player I had in the house.

So far, I've been very happy with video quality, and I haven't done much tweaking yet. Even the SD stuff through the DirecTivo is acceptable. My only real complaint is that I get audio/video sync problems with the Connected DVD Player when I try to use the DD 5.1 audio option. I didn't notice the sync issue when I changed the audio to the digital output option.

I really haven't decided yet whether to get an upscaling DVD player or simply replace the Connected DVD Player with a cheap progressive scan player that will play any disc I through at it (like the Gateway will). The Yamakawas are dirt cheap, and appear to be able to do what I want them to do. Eventually, I'd like to connect my computer to the DVI input as well, but the path through the wall to the back of the TV is very narrow, and I've got just about all of the cables that I can get routed through there running through already.

I'll post a pic when I finish getting it all set up, but basically the 5674 slides almost perfectly into a 50" wide cabinet, on a shelf with the center channel speaker directly below the TV. All of the components are in the office "next door", with the cables running through the side of the cabinet into the narrow space between the finished wall of the basement and the foundation. I'm having all sorts of headaches right now with the cheap IR sender from Best Buy that I tried, so I ordered a better IR distribution system from Smarthome.com. Aside from some speaker cables that I couldn't quite manage to hide, it gives a really nice, clean, look to the system.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by walterp
I have an interesting problem with the 4674. I really want to get it, but my cabinet opening is fixed at 40 1/8" and the area behind the bezel is 40 1/2. Does anyone have a suggestion as to some way to reduce the width behind the bezel by a half inch? Can the left side panel be removed and still have things work? I can live with the 4674 sticking out about an inch but 3 or 4 inches would look very weird. [/QUOTE

My cabinet was 1/2 " too thin as well. I found it easier to plane both edges of the cabinet down 1/4". I did this back a depth of 6" and the 4674 fit snugly. I also had to cut a slot on right side of cabinet for the manual controls on the set. I lucked out all the way around as the wooden lip of the cabinet stops right where the bezel does. My TV looks like its incased in wood. Then again.... I bought the 4674 for just this reason. I was able to get a 46" DLP in a cabinet that would only house a 40" from any other brand. I wouldnt be messing with the cabinet of the tv if i were you. Woord is much easier to work! *grin*

My HLN437W suffered with the infamous "Internal Reflection" problem, so I replaced it with the HLP4674W. I love the picture and the thin-bezel case, but I am very disappointed with the lens.

Aside from the chromatic aberration, and the focus issue on the right side of the screen, the internal reflections are far worse than the HLN.

The test: connect your PC via DVI (or VGA) and place a small Notepad window on a black desktop (no background, auto-hide the taskbar, and uncheck “show desktop icons”). Now move the window around the screen.

When the Notepad window is placed in the top-left of the screen, the HLP shows a nebulous green haze in the bottom-right (an improvement from the HLN). But when you move the window to the center of the screen, the HLP creates a nasty donut of IR in the center that expands as you move the window to the right, or downward. The HLN never did anything like that... and I tried 3 different light-engines!

In the "Napoleon Dynamite" dance scene (white T-shirt on a black background), a rapidly expanding and contracting donut showed up whenever he moved to the right of center.

Please would someone else confirm this issue with the Notepad test.

Refer to the photos in the following posts:
HLP4674W IR (1): Notepad in the top-left: green haze in the bottom-right.

HLP4674W IR (2): Notepad in the center: donut of light begins to form.

HLP4674W IR (3): Notepad to the right of center: donut expands as the window moves away from center.

HLP4674W IR (4): Notepad below center: donut also expands, but lens shading can be seen at the top (donut clipped).

When I had the HLN, I readily saw reflection in the lower right when there was a bright object in the upper left. Not anymore

I also saw the moving cursor across the bottom of the screen in the beginning of Matrix. Not anymore.

I don't see any problem with the focus on the right side either.

Hey Guys, I have been pouring through this thread all day, and I think I have all of my questions answered, except one....

Is TV Authority a Samsung Authorized dealer? I know that they honor the factor warranty, but I was wondering if they have the designation? I need to know because there is a special Samsung/Cox Cable deal that will give me a 200 rebate if I buy from an authorized samsung dealer and I get Cox HD service.

Thanks!

P.S. ALso, I still haven't got a definitive idea about what is considered "soft" on the 63 model....

Originally posted by TWD
When I had the HLN, I readily saw reflection in the lower right when there was a bright object in the upper left. Not anymore

I also saw the moving cursor across the bottom of the screen in the beginning of Matrix. Not anymore.

I don't see any problem with the focus on the right side either. OK, sounds promising, now how about that donut?

Gary

Sorry GSB. I don't use a PC on my TV. But I don't think any RPTV would pass the donut test.

Has anyone reported or heard of a problem with the 5674 Series where the Set will Power-On, not display a picture and then the "Lamp" LED will just Blink. The Set will also not turn-off or respond to any remote commands. Basically the Set is "Locked-Up".

The only way to resolve this situation, is to un-plug the Set from the AC Power Source and wait a few minutes. I then plug the Set back into power and the Set will turn-on and operate normally.

I have had this Set for about 4 months and this problem has only happend 2 times.

I did not find any Posts in this Thread related to this subject/problem.

Thanks!

HerbL

Originally posted by HerbL
Has anyone reported or heard of a problem with the 5674 Series where the Set will Power-On, not display a picture and then the "Lamp" LED will just Blink. The Set will also not turn-off or respond to any remote commands. Basically the Set is "Locked-Up".

The only way to resolve this situation, is to un-plug the Set from the AC Power Source and wait a few minutes. I then plug the Set back into power and the Set will turn-on and operate normally.

I have had this Set for about 4 months and this problem has only happend 2 times.

I did not find any Posts in this Thread related to this subject/problem.

Thanks!

HerbL

I had the exact same problem with a 5663 and like you it only happened a few times. I ultimately got the set swapped for a 5674. However, it could be a power source issue. Is your set plugged into the wall or are you using a UPC? I had this problem when running through the UPC, but not when directly in the wall.

I got my new 5674 (replaced a 5663) about two weeks ago and the third time I turned it on, all I saw was a green screen. I shut it off and turned it back on and everything was fine. I haven't had the same problem since. I called Samsung and they said it was probably due to being shipped and that I should just recycle the TV by unplugging it. Does anyone have any thoughts?

Originally posted by RMSko
I got my new 5674 (replaced a 5663) about two weeks ago and the third time I turned it on, all I saw was a green screen. I shut it off and turned it back on and everything was fine. I haven't had the same problem since. I called Samsung and they said it was probably due to being shipped and that I should just recycle the TV by unplugging it. Does anyone have any thoughts?

Based on your signature, I will hazard a guess that you have the HR10-250, and if so, you have it connected via the notoriously finicky HDMI port.

That's my setup and I have, on a few rare ocassions, turned on my TV to a lush green screen of nothing, thanks to the HDMI. I have found that just cycling to another resolution and back again fixes the problem.

Have I guessed right?

Originally posted by JeffNebraska
Based on your signature, I will hazard a guess that you have the HR10-250, and if so, you have it connected via the notoriously finicky HDMI port.

That's my setup and I have, on a few rare ocassions, turned on my TV to a lush green screen of nothing, thanks to the HDMI. I have found that just cycling to another resolution and back again fixes the problem.

Have I guessed right?

You have guessed right! However, I had a prior TiVo and had the HDMI problem and it was very different. What I had was a totally green screen, while the TiVO/HDMI problem typically involves a distorted screen that has green and pink in the picture. Also, I have a January '05 TiVo which was suppose to have resolved the HDMI problem. Also, If you're able to fix it by just cycling to another resolution (as opposed to another input), it sounds like it could be a TV issue and not a TiVo issue. What do you think?

Originally posted by TWD
I don't think any RPTV would pass the donut test. What are you talking about? That donut is an internal reflection.

Even the HLN (notorious for internal reflections) does not create such a hideous reflection, no matter where you position the Notepad window. I have tested 3 of them myself.

Gary

Originally posted by RMSko
You have guessed right! However, I had a prior TiVo and had the HDMI problem and it was very different. What I had was a totally green screen, while the TiVO/HDMI problem typically involves a distorted screen that has green and pink in the picture. Also, I have a January '05 TiVo which was suppose to have resolved the HDMI problem. Also, If you're able to fix it by just cycling to another resolution (as opposed to another input), it sounds like it could be a TV issue and not a TiVo issue. What do you think?

All I know is, I have seen the exact same thing as you, and only in one setting - the HDTiVo through HDMI. Cycling the TiVo's output basically resets the HDMI signal. My feeling has always been, every now and then my HDTiVo outputs something the TV can't make heads or tails of, and I need to reset the TiVo to get a good signal flowing again.

I know there are much more serious HDTiVo HDMI problems (including everything from distortion and imperfect color to complete failure), but I still think the periodic solid green screen is TiVo's HDMI port's fault. The TV has never given me reason to doubt it, and the TiVo has.

I have a HLP5085 and have question on the quality of picture with component input. I thought I had some noise in the picture, which went away after the $60 Zu component cable. But now I see, wavy pattern/noise in the dark areas of the picture. It is not very bad, but the rest of the picture just like the DVI input quality - rock solid with no artifacts. I am wondering whether this is inherent in the recording or something that can be fixed. Both my Philips 963sa dvd players and the TV are connected to a balanced power conditioner.
Maybe I am nitpicking, but just wanted to ask.

I would verify that the brightness is set properly on the component input using a test pattern (THX Optimode, Avia, DVE, etc.).

Originally posted by Cheezmo
I would verify that the brightness is set properly on the component input using a test pattern (THX Optimode, Avia, DVE, etc.).

Steve - would you be able to provide some input on how to use the DVE contrast pattern for non-CRT sets (I think it's in Title 12, Chapter 14 of the disk, but if I'm suppose to be looking at a different pattern, if you could let me know that I'd also appreciate it.). I'd greatly appreciate it since DVE doesn't provide any instructions as to how to use this test pattern. Thanks.

Originally posted by Cheezmo
I would verify that the brightness is set properly on the component input using a test pattern (THX Optimode, Avia, DVE, etc.).

Steve, Thanks. I think I did. But I have not picked up my DVE dvd for a while. I am just using the THX optimization menu, where they advise you to set the brightness upto the point where you just barely see the drop shadow. I will try again with the DVE, it is quite possible I may have to turn the brightness down now.

I'm curious about the HDMI input. I'm planning to connect a DVD player to my HLP4674W set through the HDMI input. I understand it carries both video and audio through one cable. My question is how do I get the audio to my receiver for surround-sound? Does the TV have digital output that I can connect to my receiver?

Originally posted by vpn75
Does the TV have digital output that I can connect to my receiver?
My HLP5063 doesn't and I don't think the HLPxx74 sets do either.

Most people just run a digital (coax or optical) cable from the DVD player to their AVR. For HDMI to do a good job of audio and video with one cable you will need a AVR that has one or more HDMI inputs and one HDMI output to the TV. That type AVR is just starting to come into the market.

Originally posted by htwaits
My HLP5063 doesn't and I don't think the HLPxx74 sets do either.

Most people just run a digital (coax or optical) cable from the DVD player to their AVR. For HDMI to do a good job of audio and video with one cable you will need a AVR that has one or more HDMI inputs and one HDMI output to the TV. That type AVR is just starting to come into the market.

Thanks for the advice. I take it I will have to mute the TV volume in this case, so I don't get audio coming out of my surround-sound and TV speakers.

Right. Or just turn the TV volume down to zero.

Originally posted by Cheezmo
I would verify that the brightness is set properly on the component input using a test pattern (THX Optimode, Avia, DVE, etc.).
Do you mean THX Optimizer or do you really mean THX Optimode (which isn't on many DVDs). I found the following on a THX Optimode website:

"Please note that the following article applies to THX Optimode only, it is not to be confused with LucasFilm's updated and corrected system calibration material, now re-badged as THX Optimizer."

I honestly just thought they changed the name. I didn't know it had been "updated and corrected". Either is probably OK for setting black level unless they indicate there was a problem with that aspect of it.

vpn75,

I believe the 4674 has both a HDMI and DVI input with both having the same digital quality. I believe you can use a HDMI to DVI cable from your DVD player to the TV and optical audio from your DVD player to your AVR, unless your DVI slot is being used by something else then do what HT suggests.

Originally posted by GSB
All upconversion solutions have a large amount of video processing to do, so the video may lag the audio by a small amount. However, the BAD, VARIABLE delay is caused by the the Faroudja deinterlacer/scaler chip, either in your player, or your TV.

Gary

So if I turn it off it will fix the problem, just the picture might not look as good?

Originally posted by forttusken
So if I turn it off it will fix the problem, just the picture might not look as good? Yes, IF it were possible to turn off the Faroudja deinterlacer/scaler chip, it would fix the sync problem but degrade the picture.

Unfortunately, it isn't possible to turn it off. You could use the component output on the player to avoid it's Faroudja chip, but then the TV would use the Faroudja chip to up-convert. No way around it, unless you pick an up-converting player without Faroudja. But then you'd have other PQ issues to deal with.

Gary

Originally posted by HerbL
Has anyone reported or heard of a problem with the 5674 Series where the Set will Power-On, not display a picture and then the "Lamp" LED will just Blink. The Set will also not turn-off or respond to any remote commands. Basically the Set is "Locked-Up".



Herb, I had this exact same problem. After reading posts on here I thought I was going to have the set replaced or have a board in the display replaced for sure. When the tech thought it was a defective lamp I was worried about how competent he was. Well, he put in the new lamp and walla! It has been working perfectly for two months now. According to the tech, the lamps can sometimes have impurities which can cause problems. I'm still unsure of what to think considering everything I've read on here but it sure seemed to fix my set. For weeks I put up with the turning the set on and off, unplugging etc. because I ... am a dork and just didn't want to deal with getting it fixed if I was going to have to ship it off. I'm obviously glad I finally did. :) Good luck!

Originally posted by forttusken
So if I turn it off it will fix the problem, just the picture might not look as good?

First of all, in your original question, you say your DVD player is set to 720i over component. For one thing, 720i is not a resolution, I assume you meant 720p? Second, if you are using component, your DVD player can only output 480p - DVD players (most, at least) cannot upconvert over component, only HDCP compliant inputs like DVI or HDMI. Over component your TV is upscaling to its native 720p. You're much better off letting your source component doing the conversion.

Finally, any decent upconverting player via DVI or HDMI should not have any audio sync issues. I wouldn't blame the Faroudja chip. My DVD player has the same chip and I've never seen any audio sync issues over HDMI at 720p. I would say it's probably source related.

Originally posted by tjk
Finally, any decent upconverting player via DVI or HDMI should not have any audio sync issues. I wouldn't blame the Faroudja chip. My DVD player has the same chip and I've never seen any audio sync issues over HDMI at 720p. I would say it's probably source related. Well I'm glad to hear that you've not had sync problems. You must have a player that has addressed this issue.

Nearly every brand of TV and DVD player that has used the Faroudja chip, has suffered with audio sync issues (including Denon). It seems to be a buffering issue in Faroudja's default application. The manufacturers have had to work with Faroudja to correct the issue, and it seems to involve some compromise.

Gary

i just got my 5674 today and when i try to hook up my ts160 stb via dvi my tv says "not supported mode". Can anyone tell me what I am doing incorrectly? thanks

Originally posted by buc18
i just got my 5674 today and when i try to hook up my ts160 stb via dvi my tv says "not supported mode". Can anyone tell me what I am doing incorrectly? thanks
Make sure your STB is not outputting 480i. The DVI input on your TV can only handle 480p, 1080i and 720p.

It's not related but also make sure your STB is set to display on a 16x9 screen not a 4x3 screen.

I've got both of those bases covered. I have it set to 720p and 16x9. Thanks for the response.

I would say that it is most likely your STB that does not support a DVI connection. The 6574 definitely supports DVI at least mine does!! There are other STB that have certain connections that are not supported by a particular cable or satellite service. Weird world we live in huh?? :D

Especially considering that they are both samsung products with DVI connections. I don't know why the STB wouldn't support DVI if it has the output. Oh well, I'll continue to play around with it to see if I can resolve anything.

After unplugging the STB, the box reset and now accepts the DVI. Thanks for the responses!

Hi all. Thanks to everyone who posts here. It helped me immensely with my purchase. I finally received my 4674 and got it hooked up yesterday. I purchased it from TVA and after a few delays I did receive it. My questions are
1. "Is it normal to see some HD channels with black bars on the sides and others that fill the entire screen when all of the other cable channels fill the entire screen?" Do they just not broadcast in full HD all of the time?

I am using Comcast dig cable with a Motorola 6200 STB with component connection to the 4674 and digital coax to my AVR. I have the STB set to 720p and 16:9 and also 4:3 STRETCH.

2. Should I wait a certain period of time before calibrating with DVE or AVIA?

Originally posted by rob63
1. "Is it normal to see some HD channels with black bars on the sides and others that fill the entire screen when all of the other cable channels fill the entire screen?" Do they just not broadcast in full HD all of the time?

Yes. Sometimes an HD channel will broadcast upconverted 4:3 content which will appear to your TV as 1080i or 720p but will have 4:3 material with black or gray bars on the side. The bars are part of the broadcast content in that case and can't be changed by your TV.

2. Should I wait a certain period of time before calibrating with DVE or AVIA?

Not at all. All you have to lose is the time you spend doing it. You may want to double check everything after your lamp has settled in (after 100 hours or so), but likely nothing that you adjust with DVE or Avia will change anyway.

You should wait before investing in a professional ISF calibration as the lamp settling in will affect the grayscale, alterning any early grayscale calibration.

Thanks Steve. It's good to know that it's the broadcast and not the set!

If there are audio sync issues with DVDs, is progressive scan (replace the old player)
the easiest solution?

I would highly recommend a DVD player with 720p DVI/HDMI output for this television. When the TV gets its native resolution digitally, it minimizes the processing that needs to be done that can both reduce any audio sync issues and provide the best possible picture quality. From what I've heard you may want to avoid Samsung DVD players, but there are many offerings from the like of Denon, Sony, Panasonic, etc. which you can read about in the DVD Player forum.

I've been reading this thread for quite some time and wanted to thank everyone for their valuable comments. However, it is a very long thread and I didn't make it through the entire thing so I apologize if this has previously been discussed.

I am considering the Sammy HL-PXX74 and the Panny PT-50DL54. I recently read Consumer Reports' review of Rear Projection TVs and the Sammy's and Panny's ranked at the top of their list. Unfortunately, CR only reviewed the Sammy 63 & 85 series, not the 74.

How would you compare the 74 series to the 63 & 85? I've read that the 74 outperforms the 63 but is not quite to the standard of the 85. Is that a fair statement? How large of a performance difference is there between the 85 & 74?

Also, on PC Richards website they list an HLRXX77 series. Is this the HD3+ next generation? It sounds like these tvs have built in tuners with CableCard slots. I wonder if they also have the 7-segment color wheel. Any word on this series and when we can expect to see it in stores?

Thanks for any help.

Doug

Originally posted by dtooch
How would you compare the 74 series to the 63 & 85? I've read that the 74 outperforms the 63 but is not quite to the standard of the 85. Is that a fair statement? How large of a performance difference is there between the 85 & 74? Well, I personally prefer the sharper picture of the HD2+ DLP chip in the 74 and 85 series, but there is no doubt that the HD3 chip in the 63 series has its merit for film-based content.

With that said, the 85 and 74 compare very closely. The picture is stunning on both of them. The difference in the 85, is the 7-segment color-wheel, and the lens design.

The 7-segment color-wheel makes no difference to the black-level, but is said to reduce the visible dithering in the darker areas of the picture. It is not easy to see the difference, but from an engineering perspective, I prefer the 6-segment in the 74.

Unfortunately, the lens in my 74 seems to be TERRIBLE. Nobody in this thread or in the 85 thread has responded to the abnormalities that I have reported, so I don't know if anyone else's set (74 or 85) exhibits these problems.

I thought the 77 series had been canceled.

Gary

Has ANYONE hooked their set to a PC to check the focus and internal reflection problems yet? My photos have been downloaded up to 80 times, and nobody has responded with their findings.

I can even see some of that nasty internal reflection when I pause a DVD on a black screen and adjust the TV's contrast, or brightness, or sharpness. The menu slider appears in the bottom half of the screen, and a large feint circle (donut) of light shows up in the center, clipped at the top by lens shading. (Turn the lights off to see it more easily).

Gary

Gary,

I have not had my 4674 for very long. I did connect my laptop (Mac) just to test my pictures from a slide show perspective. I thought the pictures looked great, but didn't take much time to really analyze the picture but would be glad to do so. I haven't seen your other responses but have not read through this entire thread - waay too long. Would you describe for me the problem or point me to your other discussion?

Mike

Originally posted by dtooch
Also, on PC Richards website they list an HLRXX77 series. Is this the HD3+ next generation? It sounds like these tvs have built in tuners with CableCard slots. I wonder if they also have the 7-segment color wheel. Any word on this series and when we can expect to see it in stores?
Samsung is indeed making the HLRxx77W... Steve Panosian told me: "a very limited quantity will be built..."

The HLRxx77W is exactly like the HLPxx74W except, it has the built in tuner/cablecard, and it DOES NOT have the DVI input. It still has the HD2+ chip and the 6 segment color wheel.

Originally posted by Administrator
Samsung is indeed making the HLRxx77W... Steve Panosian told me: "a very limited quantity will be built..."

The HLRxx77W is exactly like the HLPxx74W except, it has the built in tuner/cablecard, and it DOES NOT have the DVI input. It still has the HD2+ chip and the 6 segment color wheel.

No DVI input!!?? :confused: Why?? Two HDMI inputs? What??

They better build these in limited quantities!! :D

Originally posted by GSB
Has ANYONE hooked their set to a PC to check the focus and internal reflection problems yet? My photos have been downloaded up to 80 times, and nobody has responded with their findings.

I have an old PC hooked up and running 800x600 on 4:3. It looks very good and I have no focus issues at all, but my image also doesn't extend to the edge of the display, so my experience may not be of much help.

Good luck.

I think you will find DVI phased out by all manufacturers over the next year or so in favor of HDMI. Not a big deal as you can get cables with DVI on one end and HDMI on the other.

Originally posted by Cheezmo
I think you will find DVI phased out by all manufacturers over the next year or so in favor of HDMI. Not a big deal as you can get cables with DVI on one end and HDMI on the other.

Cheezmo

Not questioning your prediction but why? Who uses the audio aspect of HDMI anyway? I guess not many that fritter their time away on these forums! :D

Must be other reasons. Enlighten us!

HDMI is about Copy Protection. Hollywood wants your $$$$

Originally posted by mooney
HDMI is about Copy Protection. Hollywood wants your $$$$

Now how did I miss that obvious reason!!! :D

Originally posted by mismatched
No DVI input!!?? :confused: Why?? Two HDMI inputs? What??

They better build these in limited quantities!! :D
There is only one HDMI input on the HLRxx77W and no DVI. I believe the reason they took DVI off had something to do with the integrated tuner and cablecard...

DVI allows for the same level of copy protection, I believe (HDCP or whatever). HDMI is smaller, easier to route cables, etc., and allows for audio and other control signals.

Why the strong preference for DVI?

Originally posted by Administrator
There is only one HDMI input on the HLRxx77W and no DVI. I believe the reason they took DVI off had something to do with the integrated tuner and cablecard...

find it puzzling that they would limit the set with only one "digital" video connection possibility??

Originally posted by mismatched
find it puzzling that they would limit the set with only one "digital" video connection possibility??
Yes, I agree. I guess they figured with the integrated tuner/cablecard they can cut costs by only offering one digital input.

Again, my advice to Samsung "Limit the 77s' production (to <1)! :D

Originally posted by mismatched
Again, my advice to Samsung "Limit the 77s' production (to <1)! :D
FYI - None of the 2005 Samsung HLR sets will have a DVI input.

The 68 & 78 Series will have two HDMI inputs.

The 67 Series will only have one HDMI input like the HLRxx77W.

How do you tell the manufacturing date for HLP4674W/HLP5674W? Is it printed on the shipping box or only in the service menu or sticker on the back of unit.

sticker on the back of unit.

For those of you that have used TV Authority in the past, what has your experience been like? Would you recommend them to future buyers? I am on the East coast and worry about things like delivery and repairs since they are so far away.

For those of you that have used TV Authority in the past, what has your experience been like? Would you recommend them to future buyers? I am on the East coast and worry about things like delivery and repairs since they are so far away.

I bought my 4674 from TVA and it was delivered within the two weeks they quoted. A couple of day delay because of the wonderful winter weather here in CT, but the set is great so far. I'd buy from them again.

When viewing HD and the broadcast switches to commercials, I notice a little "bowing" on the left side of the screen where the picture meets the vertical black bar on that side. What can be causing this? My wife doesn't really notice it, but when i was using the THX Optimizer to adjust the picture , I noticed on one of the test patterns that i could not see the outer lefthand line of the "box" that was on the screen.
Is there something to adjust the position of the picture on the screen, knid of like you do with a PC monitor?