I'd like to put my center channel on top of the t.v. My 4674 has a nice shelf there, but im afraid that my center (22lbs) is just too heavy and will end up permanently bending the thin bezel. What have other done to compensate for this? I can't put it below the tv, it has to be above. any ideas?

Kitsaws,

Was in the same boat, monitoring the HLR thread for past 4 months, waiting on them. Really wanted HD2+, and VGA, but didn't want Kirk 50 incher. Was all set on the 5067 since it had VGA, but was waiting to see how new HD chip performed.

Then heard Costco had the 56" for great price w stand. (Phorbo007, stand is in separate 110lb box). Wasn't a Costco member, but am one as of yesterday with my purchase. I figured, how could I go wrong. They have a fantastic return policy. After thinking about purchasing online vs. B&M store, I called to ask, thinking about 14 day policies, or 15% restocking, or paying 250 in shipping to return it. They tell me, 'well, we don't want you to abuse our policy by returning the set 2 years later because you want a new one, but basically, you can return it 2 years later!" They also have a price guarantee!

Kitsaws, brilliant idea to build stand at 50" size! Will redo that next weekend.

Greetings,
I just finished putting the 5674 stand together. I built it on the 56" specs. What is the benefit of using the 50" specs? I'm putting all the electronics into the stand tomorrow, and I really only want to do that one time. Please advise.
b.

I just went and looked at the TV/stand and took a picture for you. As you can see the TV is just a little bigger on the left/right edge than the stand. This is not very noticeable in my case as I have the TV in the corner and I want it to fit snug into the corner as much as possible. I was afraid that with the stand built at 56" it would stick out too much and the stand would be awkwardly larger than the TV base.

Kit,
Thanks for the photo. Naturally I obsessed about that most of last night until I realized that I needed the width so as to accomodate my surround and video components side by side. The stand is built like a tank. Tonight I move all the electronics into it. I hope it all fits.
b.

Well the "size" of the stand is limited by the size of the glass shelves, in terms of how much stuff you can place on it. If you need front access to all of your AV equipment, then you would want to build it bigger. I only need access to the DVD player so that's not an issue for me.

After doing some experimenting this past weekend with my 5674 and a Denon 2910 I have found that w/HDMI @720p I have some macroblocking issues. However, by changing to 480p(HDMI) it seems to pretty much clear up these issues.

One scene that really gave me a great comparison was the hair cutting/love scene from the Bourne Identity. At 720p the MB on the walls behind them made the scene nearly unwatchable. At 480p it was virtually eliminated. I am okay with leaving my 2910 at 480p because the PQ is very good, but I purchased this player to match up to the 5674's native resolution of 720p.

I don't think this is an issue with my HDMI cable as it does fine at 480p. I am just confused as to why there is a problem w/720p. I am assuming that it is a display issue but I am curious to find out if other people out there with the same setup as me experiences these problems and if not......why me?

Interesting comments about the PQ at 480p vs 720p.

I was just watching NBA on TNTHD when I started noticing visible vertical "lines" showing up on some parts of the screen, usually on the players as they ran. I config'd my Dish 811 HD STB to use 1080i, and the picture seemed a bit less sharp but these visual artifacts were gone.
It may be the TNTHD feed or the STB, or maybe both. I switched it over to another channel (HD) and again noticed the PQ looked a little better at 1080i rather than 720p.
Any clues as to what's going on? The picture is still excellent either way, but I have a trained eye for detail (years of working in front of a lcd screen at 1600x1200 resolution)...

When the source is 1080i and the display is 720p, someone has to convert it. It looks like the TV is doing a better job (at least with regard to that particular distracting artifact) than the Dish STB in this case. On film based material (as opposed to live sports) it may be the other way around.

Unfortunately, you increase the overscan a bit feeding the TV 1080i, but if one setting gives you distracting artifacts and the other doesn't, the choice is pretty clear, isn't it.

I had the same problem with the DISH 6000 STB and the 4674. The picture is clearly better with the STB set to 1080i. I also had periodic Vertical squigglies that went away on the new VOOM channels.

It seems to be a sharper picture across the board.

Originally posted by Cheezmo
When the source is 1080i and the display is 720p, someone has to convert it. It looks like the TV is doing a better job (at least with regard to that particular distracting artifact) than the Dish STB in this case. On film based material (as opposed to live sports) it may be the other way around.

Unfortunately, you increase the overscan a bit feeding the TV 1080i, but if one setting gives you distracting artifacts and the other doesn't, the choice is pretty clear, isn't it.

I was fishing for some feedback as to how to fix this problem but still give the TV a 720p signal... but I had made the assumption that it's always best to give the TV it's "native" resolution. Someone just commented on their Dish STB and 1080i vs. 720p, and how they run it at 1080i.

How can you find out the type of feed for what you're watching? I know different stations broadcast at different types (480i, 720p, 1080i) but how do I tell what I'm currently watching?

Originally posted by kitsaws

How can you find out the type of feed for what you're watching? I know different stations broadcast at different types (480i, 720p, 1080i) but how do I tell what I'm currently watching?

Fox, ABC, and ESPN are all 720p. Everyone else is 1080i (of course all SD content is 480i).

Originally posted by tjk
Fox, ABC, and ESPN are all 720p. Everyone else is 1080i (of course all SD content is 480i).

My local UPN is 720p also.

Originally posted by tjk
Fox, ABC, and ESPN are all 720p. Everyone else is 1080i (of course all SD content is 480i).

My local UPN is 720p also.

Originally posted by buc18
After doing some experimenting this past weekend with my 5674 and a I am assuming that it is a display issue but I am curious to find out if other people out there with the same setup as me experiences these problems and if not......why me?

I don't know why you think this is a Display issue??

When your Denon is set at 480p your HLP is doing the scaling and you say it looks great.

If your Denon is set at 720p the HLP just displays exactly what it gets so the macroblocking is coming from the Denon.

OK, am now concerned about intermit problem with new 5674, so I am hoping someone would shed some light...

Have Comcast cable Mot DVT 6400 hooked up with component cables to 5674. When I initially hooked this up, turned on the TV, I got no sound. Mute not on, couldn't figure it out. Tried XBox, got sound. Went back to TV, no sound.

hooked up via composite, got sound, after switching to a HD channel, then back to SD.

Hooked up component again, got sound. Watched TV for last 2 days, no problem.

Turned on TV again tonite, no sound! Immediately went to DVR choice, played a recorded show for a second that started with sound. Stopped that, went back to TV, now had sound.

Anybody shed light on this? Initially, I thought it was cable DVR box as I got sound from the XBOX, but this is the same DVR box I have been using for 6 months on a regular CRT , never experiencing this problem (though the CRT was hooked up via composite, not component).

Thanks for any help.

(Long time lurker - First time poster)

Greetings to the AVS Family!

I took the plunge and purchased the Sammy HL-P5674 last week at my local Costco. What a steal! Great price and it included the stand!
I have been reading posts on this site for the last 7 months and finally decided that this set was for me. It has all the inputs I want, it has the center channel stand, the thin bezel, the black front...everything!

I'm running the Samsung HD-841 DVD player through DVI and the picture is remarkable! The cable guy is coming Thursday to upgrade me to digital cable and give me the Motorolla HD box with Moxi. I'm totally amped! I can't wait to see how this set will look with the HD channels and a digital signal (currently I have basic non-digital cable).

The one question I have for the other owners of this set is this:

What picture settings do you use in "standard" or "cinema" mode? By this I mean what are the levels of contrast, color, etc..? I've been watching the TV for a week now and the picture is awesome, but I notice some slight extremes in the coloring and brightness. I've tweaked the settings around but can't seem to get it perfect. I know it can be different for every person, but I just wanted to see if maybe I was doing it all wrong. (Sharpness all the way down to 0 etc, etc)

Thanks for all the great info on this site!

Looking for a 4674. Anyone know if Costco has it in addition to the 5674?

Thanks

Originally posted by rtrott
Looking for a 4674. Anyone know if Costco has it in addition to the 5674?

Thanks
I think they are all different. Mine replaced the sold 5674's with HLP5063's

for what it is worth Cronk+

Cinema mode

(using Denon 3910- Avia)*

Contrast: 74
Brightness: 54
Sharpness: 61 (irrelevant)
Color: 45

Size: Expand

DNR: off

DNIe: off

* - Both settings done during daytime

PS Having my set ISF'd by Michael Chen on Saturday for the real thing!!!

Originally posted by rtrott
Looking for a 4674. Anyone know if Costco has it in addition to the 5674?

Thanks

Me too -- been to several Costco's and have only seen the 5674. Several on-line vendors have the 4674's, but not all that comfortable spending 2K + with them.

Anyone have any advice for Jon and myself?

Thanks

rtrott & jon777

From what the guy at my local Costco told me, they will only be selling the 56" version (5674) for now. Depending on how fast the 56" goes, maybe they will add the 46". It's hard to get the folks at Costco to tell you what they might be selling in the future - granted the clerks on the floor probably don't know - but maybe you would have luck calling the store and asking the people who do the warehouse purchasing.

I was close to buying the JVC I-DLA and was waiting for it to maybe show up at Costco or Sam's Club - lucky for me they never carried it at my store and I held out long enough to score the 5674. IMHO the Sammy is way better, so I'm pretty happy. :)
Also, be careful if you decide to purchase it online. There are some shady online retailers who will jump at the chance to rip you off. Definately do your research via this site , the BBB, and independent reviews.

mismatched -

What would be the reason to turn off the DNR & DNIe? Don't those features help with the picture?
I was really confused on how to set those because the descriptions of what they do is so brief.
Also, I'm assuming the "cool" and "warm" settings are all a matter of personal taste as well...?

You said you're having your set ISF'd...what does that mean? Is that a professional calibration? I tried using my Video Essentials DVD, but the results weren't that impressive.

Thanks for your input.

I think it is mentioned in this and the XX63 thread a couple of times, but DNIe and DNR alter the picture in mostly undesirable ways if image accuracy is what you want.

ISF calibration is professional calibration. These sets can be calibrated better than most in that in addition to the typical grayscale calibration, the actual colors of red/green/blue primaries can be precisely calibrated. Out of the box, the green is significantly off resulting in "neon/flourescent/lime" greens and also a very innacurate yellow. After calibration they are almost perfect.

Many thanks.

I'm moving in less than a month and am treating myself to a new TV. I'm trying to pick between the HLR 6167 and the HLR 5677. The main factor in my decision is the PQ (not the inputs, design, etc), but no stores in the Cleveland area are getting any of the new DLPs in any time soon. So, I'm likely going to have to buy the new set w/o seeing it first.

When I go to BB or CC and compare the HLPx63s vs. the HLP5085 (originial Kirk), I strongly prefer the Kirk's PQ. This would lead me to think that I would prefer the new 5677 over the new 6167. I know that this TV and the HLPx74 both use the "HD2+" chip, but have some differences in other components.

My question is whether the PQ of the original Kirk is the same as the PQ of a HLPx74 (which I can't seem to find in the area). Has anyone ever done a side-by-side comparison of the two???? Am I wrong to be basing my opinion about the HLRx77 by looking only at the 5085?

Thanks so much for your help!

Greetings,
It was my understanding from speaking with Samsung at HES in NYC that they sold Costco only the 5674 at this time.
b.

Todays Frys' ad in Portland has an unbelievable price on the HLP4674 (qty 1 and no rainchecks). Other cities with Frys may be blowing them out as well.

Originally posted by Cheezmo
I think it is mentioned in this and the XX63 thread a couple of times, but DNIe and DNR alter the picture in mostly undesirable ways if image accuracy is what you want.

ISF calibration is professional calibration. These sets can be calibrated better than most in that in addition to the typical grayscale calibration, the actual colors of red/green/blue primaries can be precisely calibrated. Out of the box, the green is significantly off resulting in "neon/flourescent/lime" greens and also a very innacurate yellow. After calibration they are almost perfect.

Cheezmo

Who asked you anyway?? I was supposed to answer that!! :mad:

Just kidding!! :D Thanks for setting the guy straight!!

m

Originally posted by Paul_PDX
Todays Frys' ad in Portland has an unbelievable price on the HLP4674 (qty 1 and no rainchecks). Other cities with Frys may be blowing them out as well.

If you're talking about the ad on pg E10 of the Oregonian, it doesn't say it's an HLP4674. Did you go to Fry's to verify this? The ad states it has a Gen 3 light engine and 1500:1 contrast ratio, which I believe makes it an HLPxx63 with an HD3 chip. Am I wrong?

Originally posted by falsedawn
If you're talking about the ad on pg E10 of the Oregonian, it doesn't say it's an HLP4674. Did you go to Fry's to verify this? The ad states it has a Gen 3 light engine and 1500:1 contrast ratio, which I believe makes it an HLPxx63 with an HD3 chip. Am I wrong?

you are correct, bro. Cannot be a XX74 with those specs!!

Wow. Just got back from Costco and spent some time in front of the 5674 and its really nice. especially that thin bezel... Funny thing though, it does not look THAT big to me....at least not a 56" screen..??? Is that a strange phoenomenon to anyone? It makes me wonder how small the 46 will look to me....Unfortunately I am limited to 44" clearance in width...

Anyone disagree that the 4674 is my best bet with 44" width to work with in that price range?

THanks all,

Greetings,
Unless your local Costco is the the size of a phone booth, the 5674 will look plenty big in an average size room. The sheer size of Costco tends to overpower everything inside of it. Wait until you try to put the box inside an average size vehicle.
b.

rtrott,

I upgraded from the 36" Sony XBR HD direct view set to the 4674. It actually fit in about the same footprint.

I do get the HD experience I wanted (larger size) that was lacking on the Sony. When on, the picture looks plenty big in my room, although the thin bezel makes the TV itself somewhat subdued when acting like furniture.

I would have preferred the 5674 but it just wouldn't fit.

Having had it awhile, I really like the HD2+ picture. SD off of digital OTA is significantly better picture quality than the Sony direct view. That was a happy bonus from my purchase - wife happy.

Mike,

Exactly the same as my experience with 4674 replacing 36" Sony XBR.

Originally posted by falsedawn
If you're talking about the ad on pg E10 of the Oregonian, it doesn't say it's an HLP4674. Did you go to Fry's to verify this? The ad states it has a Gen 3 light engine and 1500:1 contrast ratio, which I believe makes it an HLPxx63 with an HD3 chip. Am I wrong?

My Bad! -- I was in Fry's last week and they only had the HLPxx74s and the newer HLRs so I didn't look close enough at the ad -- it looks like they got a shipment of xx63s in to liquidate..

Greetings,
Perhaps I can get some advice on 2 set up questions...
1. I initially ran the Comcast hd box via component with the audio into my surround system via optical connect which worked fine. I then experimented with running the cable line directly to the 5674 to improve the sd pq, which as I read on this forum did appear to make a difference. I tried to use the "ant 1 in & out" as a pass through to the hd cable box. I don't want to use the internal speakers but couldn't get an audio out signal when I used the 5674 "AV1 audio out" into the Comcast box audio in. Has anyone run a split feed like this since obviously I'm doing something wrong. Any suggestions on how I should run this combination?
2. I've yet to do a full DVE adjustment, but the darks look very dark, almost like a black crush with a loss of dark detail. Is this a gamma adjustment or something that is inherent to either this model or dlp's in general? I plan on an ISF calibration in a month or so but I want to see what I can do with it first.
Thanks,
b.

Greetings

Your set up is fine, if you want to watch SD over the RF input. I have my HLP4663 set up the same way with my Charter set top running into the Sam via component, and using an optical from the box to my receiver. I run the cable from the wall into a 2 way splitter, running one cable to the RF input (ANT 1) and the other to the RF input for the box. I watch SD over RF and Digital and HD with the box. If you want the SD audio through your surround system, just change the channel on the box to the same that your watching over RF. You're already connected to the surround with the optical. As far as the black crush, a professional calibration would likely take care of most picture issues you might have. The Samsung DLP has a highly tweakable service menu. You'll likely get some improvment with DVE, but nothing compared to a professional calibration. Just be sure they have experience with the newer models, HLP to present, as the service menus and related procedures can be quite challenging, if not familiar with.

Ross,
Thank you for your reply.
Is there anyway under my current surround setup to get audio out of the tv so that I would not have to change channels on the set top box at the same time as changing them on the tv?
I am in the process of scheduling a professional calibration once I get a more thorough understanding of all the new gear, as I also have an Oppo dvd player on order. I've used the calibrator previously, and I am certain he is intimately familiar with the Sammy HLP series. Thanks again.
b.

I was in my local COSTCO in Tustin CA this afternoon and noted they had the 5674s in stock for a price $100 lower than I paid for my 4674 2 months ago and that was an "open box" return set at BB!

Anyway, interestingly enough, side by side with the 5674 was a 5663 for EXACTLY THE SAME PRICE!!!

I watched the two sets for some time which were both tuned to some travel show on INHD.

There was just NO comparison, in every way the 74 blew away the 63...color, sharpness, blacks, whites everything...

I pity the poor shlub who isn't informed and picks the 63 over the 74 because he LIKES the wide bezel and the platinum finish speaker cover!!!

I did ask the Dept mgr and, as has been reported, COSTCO is only carrying the 5674 NOT the 4674. The 56 is too wide for my space, so that makes me feel a bit better about paying what I did for my "open box" 4674 compared to what these sets are now going for...

GET UM WHILE THEY GOT UM!!!

I am experiencing a ghosting effect which I originally thought was macroblocking from my DVD player. But it turns out it's the TV causing the issue. I have a 4674 with Denon 2910 via HDMI (and Component). I am able to easily reproduce it by going on DVE to chapter 12-15 where there's the blue screen with the bright white vertical lights on both sides of the screen. when I click play and it goes to a gray screen (i believe it's the 20% white screen) it's not perfectly smooth gray, i can fully make out the previous screens picture almost like it's an embossed photo, so I can see the bright lights on either side and I can make out the general pattern. now the reason I know it's the TV is because if I bring up the TV's menu, then turn it off, the menu is now embossed/burnt into what should be a flat even Gray, I can even make out the lettering and Icons of the TV's menu. So this leads me to beleive that the TV is the cause. I could also make this out standing 4-ft away from the TV, between 5 & 6 ft I could still make it out slightly even with my glasses off. turing up and down the brightness had no effect nor did changing DNIe. above 20% white it seems to not be an issue.

If anyone else has DVE I'd like to know if you can reproduce this. To me having this ghosting of the previosly displayed image in the 1-20% range of brightness will definitly cause the macroblocking issues I'm seeing in dark scenes.

Bob4Action,

I believe your issue with the audio from the Sammy to the Comcast box is that Comcast does not enable the audio in on its boxes.

Try running the audio out from the Sammy to the in on your surround system instead.

Emann,
Comcast here in Philadelphia does have the optical out enabled, at least they do on my Motorola 6200 box. It must be something else, because the delay is horrendous.My receiver does have an adjustable delay setting, but it is just one more thing to fool with instead of just watching tv. So it goes...

I struggled a bit with this and happily decided to always use my surround system when I watch TV. The sound is superior. I got a Harmony remote the 680 and with one button pushed I turn on my TV and the A/V surround sound receiver and watch TV in video and audio bliss. Never use the Sammy's sound. I run the optical from the Comcast box into my AV receiver that is...

no synch issues...

good luck

My 4674 shows yellows too strong in almost a "dayglow" yellow.

Skin tones look OK, however.

I tried to adjust the color with "My Color Control" in the PICTURE MENU.

It was greyed out until I turned DNie on? Is this correct?

I can't get the color to change on the split test page.

Moving the vertical indicator from 0-100 has no evident effect on the "ADJUSTED" side of the test picture in either Pink, Green or Blue?

I was using the "DETAIL" setting rather than the "EASY" setting.

I just left it at the 50 default for all three colors.

I must be doing something wrong or maybe it is time to call out the Sammy Warranty Tech?

Any advise would be appreciated!

I'm not sure what the problem is with the "My Color Control" "feature" which is best left alone anyway, but the hot yellow (and probably green too) issue is correctable by a calibrator with a spectroradiometer. The current Samsung's can have their color primaries/secondaries precisely calibrated. Out of the box the green (and yellow as you note) are significantly off. This is not something that a Samsung repair tech will likely know anything about, but a good ISF calibrator with Samsung experience probably will.

The bottom line is that it is unlikely that any user or repair adjustments will correct the problem, but it is correctable with the proper instrumentation.

Hi don't mean to go too off topic, but I've recently purchased a 5674 and am attempting to connect it to my SA 8300 via hdmi. I keep getting a "you tv does not support hdcp, use ...'

I'm really new at this and don't understand why the hdmi output on the sa 8300 would not be supported.

Hi don't mean to go too off topic, but I've recently purchased a 5674 and am attempting to connect it to my SA 8300 via hdmi. I keep getting a "you tv does not support hdcp, use ...'

I don't have your STB but try this until someone comes along with exactly the right answer. :)

1. You may have to set a switch on your STB to get a signal to the HDMI/DVI output port.

2. Have your TV on with an image present before you turn on the STB. That will help the to devices complete their hand shake.

Hi don't mean to go too off topic, but I've recently purchased a 5674 and am attempting to connect it to my SA 8300 via hdmi. I keep getting a "you tv does not support hdcp, use ...'

I'm really new at this and don't understand why the hdmi output on the sa 8300 would not be supported.

The 5674 does support HDMI so the options are:

1) Bad HDMI cable -- lots of the early cables didn't fully implement the spec right -- even now you can run into bad cable especially from some of the cheapest ones -- easiest thing to try to swap. This is the most likely culpret.

2) Bad SA 8300 (check other forums that talk about this box for advice) or somehow a bad setting on the box (do you have component cables attached as well or anything like that that you can try disconecting so you are HDMI only. Set your HDMI out to 720p for the best chance at syncing - Samsung HDMI won't sync 480i. Can you borrow something else that uses HDMI to try. Also try turning on the tv before the stb.
I've seen lots of bad STB HDMI port discussions (even owned one on a HDTIVO) so this is probably the second most likely.

3) Bad HDMI port on the Samsung. Probably least likely since this isn't anything I've seen discussed before. But if you've ruled out 1 and 2 time for a service call.

Thanks for the reply Paul.

Let me back track a little, I was able to watch via hdmi with only hdmi connected by removing the output setting of 480i & 480p on the 8300, So at that point I thought I had resolved the issue. At this point I unplugged everything to get the 8300 to its more permanent location. When I plugged everything back in, That's when I got the "Your HDTV does not support HDCP...." msg on the screen. I plugged the component cables back in and the msg persists, only leaving when hdmi is uplugged from the cable box.

Also, the hdmi cable is new and cost me 120 bucks, so I'm sure hoping it's not. I'm also hoping it's not the TV as that would suck.

Thanks again for your reply Paul.

Bob4Action,

You were saying that you used the out from the Samsung to the Audio IN of the Comcast. The Audio IN on the Comcast is the issue, its not enabled.

Emann,
I used the audio out optical from the Comcast box, a Motorola 6200, into a Yamaha 5790 receiver. It is enabled, because I do get a signal...just a delayed signal. I also know that the receiver has a delay setting, but still it is an issue.
b.

Thanks for the reply Paul.

Let me back track a little, I was able to watch via hdmi with only hdmi connected by removing the output setting of 480i & 480p on the 8300, So at that point I thought I had resolved the issue. At this point I unplugged everything to get the 8300 to its more permanent location. When I plugged everything back in, That's when I got the "Your HDTV does not support HDCP...." msg on the screen. I plugged the component cables back in and the msg persists, only leaving when hdmi is uplugged from the cable box.

Also, the hdmi cable is new and cost me 120 bucks, so I'm sure hoping it's not. I'm also hoping it's not the TV as that would suck.

Thanks again for your reply Paul.

I have a SA8300 set to output 720p. If I turn the box on before the TV I get the msg but it goes away after 3 to 5 seconds. If I turn thue TV on first I dont reveive the msg at all.

I am going back the the component cables anyway. I do not see any difference in oicture quality between the HDMI cable vs. the comonent. I do however notice more pixelization here and there with the HDMI. I assume that is a digital thing with errors being created going throubh the HDMI port. I would have to pass that question on to the people here with more knowledge. I do know also that when I went to the HDMI cable and set my box to 720P vs Pass-thru that it takes 2 to 3 seconds for the picture to materialize when I change the HD channels. The SD and Digital channels change instantly. Hmmmmm?

OMG! I went to Costco and let out an audible yelp when low & behold, before my very eyes was the "tantus" 56" LOL My dream TV (before I knew the 1080's were coming out). Came home to search here and see they might not be making the slim bezel anymore? A Shame! What were they thinking!!! The case is stunning. Not sure what I'll do with my 50" HLN, but I'll figure that out later. ;) I hope hubby is pleased when I show him what I have in my van. When the 1080's come out I'm going to have to cave but hopefully keep this one.

Can anyone tell me what I might expect upgrading from the HLN (w1) to the HLP? I know the contrast ratio/brightness will improve but I've not yet studied what else. I'll probably spend the whole weekend in the SM but hope it doesn't need much. It's so pretty!! Happy dance.

I'm not sure what the problem is with the "My Color Control" "feature" which is best left alone anyway, but the hot yellow (and probably green too) issue is correctable by a calibrator with a spectroradiometer. The current Samsung's can have their color primaries/secondaries precisely calibrated. Out of the box the green (and yellow as you note) are significantly off. This is not something that a Samsung repair tech will likely know anything about, but a good ISF calibrator with Samsung experience probably will.

The bottom line is that it is unlikely that any user or repair adjustments will correct the problem, but it is correctable with the proper instrumentation.

I can second Cheezmo's comments about the off green out of the box condition of the Sammy 5674. Recently had one Michael Chen (ISF calibrator) adjust my set. Although I had thought the PQ pretty good Michael demonstrated with his spectroradiometer just how far off "my" greens were. After several hours of tweaking he got the greens and reds and color temps and all that good stuff much improved. Would I have been able to do this or even if I could wanted to do this!!?? No way get a pro!

Greetings Meagain,
"I hope hubby is pleased when I show him what I have in my van"
I would offer an opinion that if he isn't it might be time for a new hubby.
I can't offer much in the way of comparison since the 5674 is my first dlp. I'm currently just tinkering with user menu stuff, and have an ISF calibration scheduled for the end of June.
My intitial reaction was that the pq was pretty dark, with both white and black crush. I'd be curious as to what you wind up playing with in the SM.
Happy tweaking...
b.

Bob4action - Yes, he's quite pleased. We just got it running & off he went for Pizza. I have to find the discrete codes to set up our Pronto. Please post after you get it calibrated as I'm very curious as to what difference it will generate. I didn't cal our 50" HLN as I knew it would be a more temporary visitor.

But I must say - Yipes on the analog/SD! My first impression is to send it back but I felt that way when I fired up the HLN. I guess going from 50" to 56" is rough on it. Hopefully I can tweak the contrast to chill down the horror. I like to have msnbc, cnn, food channel, etc. on during the day so I hope I can improve it. It's quite nasty.

Isn't there some cool gadget I can buy to improve it? Like some sort of filter thingy? I'll be spending days on this forum. I've not been here in several months. I'm hopeing someone created a synopsis/charts, etc. on it like Arun Gupta did with the HLN. RIP :(

EDIT: This set is so very pretty. If it had a butt, it would have flowers coming out of it.

HDMI to DVI adapter question

I have a 5674 and want to use the HDMI port for HD satelite.

This leaves the DVI port for the Toshiba 592 DVD player with HDMI output.

I can't decide which to order male/female etc guess I need some sex education.

I buy most cables from Pacific cable and they have a HDMI male to DVD-D ??? female adapter for $28.

Suggestions welcome.

Meagain,
"This set is so very pretty. If it had a butt, it would have flowers coming out of it."
Interesting turn of a phrase regarding a tv..
I have read this entire thread, twice actually, and the general consensus appears to be that you should split the cable with one side going direct into the tv and the other side to your cable box. The direct in approach does improve sd...so does turning down the contrast, which seemed real high oob...I have yet to hook up the dvi dvd player since I've been trying to get a handle on the new tv and new cable box first. The dvd project is next weekend. Best of luck in tweakville...
b.

Cheezmo and Mismatched:

I am seriously thinking about coughing up $400+ for an ISF Calib. Besides the overly bright Greens and Yellows, I NEVER see BTB on my 4674, just dark grey....I fooled around with the contrast and brightness but doing one thing to fix a problem just seems to create another different problem! Also the tri color controls are useless...at least to me!

I bought DVE and am going to try that, maybe this holiday weekend....if that don't cut it then I gotta break my piggy bank....Main prob is my SO...after spending north of 7 large on my entire HT set up, she thinks I am absolutely crazy to spend another $400 or so "just to have someone come in to adjust the color, which looks just fine to me"!!!

Anyway, I see that Gregg from Lion A/V Consultants is making a swing thru So Cal in July....having him do a Calib might be just might be the thing to do!

I note in surfing around the net checking various ISF Calibrators working the LA area that none of them list a "Spectrum Radiometer" in thier list of technical equipment....Gregg does and Cheezmo indicated that this was the tool to use to get the greens and yellows right...wonder how the other ISF calibrators can do a complete job without this item?

PS: I haven't read many (if any) posts here from an owner (who has had an ISF Calib) saying that it was a waste of money...all seem "RE" blown away by the improved PQ that results from an expert like Gregg "tweaking" their Sammy DLP!

Greetings Chuckip,
Although I am on the opposite coast from you, I have used Eliab @ www.avical.com over the past several years for an older Hitachi rptv and will be having my new 5674 calibrated at the end of the next month.
I can highly recommend Eliab and I believe he is affiliated with a company in the LA area as well. A listing of their services and test equipment is on the website. Eliab is a wealth of information and has always taken the time to explain what he is doing and why he is doing it.
While I'm not married, my girlfriend has made similar comments about the cost of a calibration. My reply was to tell her that her new outfit looked fine with the shoes she already had in her closet and why did she need new ones? While she got the message, she also didn't speak to me for 3 days. So it goes...
I'll post my calibration observation and comments after Eliab's visit.
b.

I just purchased a HLP5674 and a HD TIVO HR10-250. Does anyone know the 4 digit code for the 5674 that I can program into the TIVO remote, so I can use that remote to power on/off, and change volume on the TV?

I tried all of the Samsung codes suggested in the TIVO remote setup menu, with no luck.

Thanks,
Ray Marshall

Am I the only one here that doesn't like Gamma 0 on this set?

Granted, I only played around with this by eye, but it just seemed to gloom everything out. I saw no improvement in detail, etc. Gamma 0 seemed to work better on my HLN. I was tireing of the tweak game and ended up back on Gamma 2 (default). I'm going to go back to it soon. What am I missing here?

I'm pretty impressed with it out of the box, but turned down the tint a tad, and lowered contrast for SD. Forgot what else I did to the basic menu. VASTLY better than the HLN and even the improved HLNw1. Better picture all the way around. I'm probably not going to be in any hurry to have it calibrated either. Unless you all say I'll see a noticeable & worthwhile improvement. ????

If you change gamma, you need to make sure you adjust brightness and contrast properly afterward. If not, all bets are off.

Am I the only one here that doesn't like Gamma 0 on this set?

Granted, I only played around with this by eye, but it just seemed to gloom everything out. I saw no improvement in detail, etc. Gamma 0 seemed to work better on my HLN. I was tireing of the tweak game and ended up back on Gamma 2 (default). I'm going to go back to it soon. What am I missing here?

I'm pretty impressed with it out of the box, but turned down the tint a tad, and lowered contrast for SD. Forgot what else I did to the basic menu. VASTLY better than the HLN and even the improved HLNw1. Better picture all the way around. I'm probably not going to be in any hurry to have it calibrated either. Unless you all say I'll see a noticeable & worthwhile improvement. ????

You may want to avoid the service menu until you have 40-100 hours on the set. Most of us noticed a vast improvement in color and SD after the bulb began to burn in and settle into its mid-life spectrum. In the end this set was so much better than my HLN that I decided against calibration (other than what I did with DVE).

Hi don't mean to go too off topic, but I've recently purchased a 5674 and am attempting to connect it to my SA 8300 via hdmi. I keep getting a "you tv does not support hdcp, use ...'

I'm really new at this and don't understand why the hdmi output on the sa 8300 would not be supported.

I had the same problem with the 8300 - The Samsung TV is not the problem - the 8300 is - according to the company's technical service reps in Atlanta. They told me they have a software problem with the 8300 as it relates to the HDMI connection. They are working on a fix which would allow the software update to be transmitted through your cable provider's cable box. The issue relates to attemting to comply with the motion picture industry in supporting illegal copying and hence the hdcp features on all of the new TV's .

Hope that helps - what is unusual is my Samsung worked for several days before I got the same message that you did. In the meantime if you continue to use the 8300 - you are probably going to have to use the DVI or component connections at least for a few more months.

I just picked up a HLP5674 display model at my local Costco for $2100 with stand included. The unit has been running for 15 days. Full price was $2699 and the manager gave me 20% off of that.

Was this a good deal?

I just picked up a HLP5674 display model at my local Costco for $2100 with stand included. The unit has been running for 15 days. Full price was $2699 and the manager gave me 20% off of that.

Was this a good deal?

Best I've heard -- lots of people paid more than double that just 6 months ago.
A 10% discount would have paid for a bulb so when you think about your price and Costco's excellent return policies you did great.

You may want to avoid the service menu until you have 40-100 hours on the set. Most of us noticed a vast improvement in color and SD after the bulb began to burn in and settle into its mid-life spectrum. In the end this set was so much better than my HLN that I decided against calibration (other than what I did with DVE).

Thanks - I'll hold off on everything for a bit. I'm very happy with it as is. I should try the DVE but am unclear if I'll know what to do with it unless it has instruction. :)

Cheezmo - I'll look around for your contrast, etc. recommendations for Gamma 0.

Thanks - I'll hold off on everything for a bit. I'm very happy with it as is. I should try the DVE but am unclear if I'll know what to do with it unless it has instruction. :)

It does and you can get more help here.

ht - Great! Do you all prefer the DVE over the Avia? Maybe I'll look around today & order a disc. I also heard that INHD does test patterns at some odd-ball time of day each week - but I'm not quite sure what I'd do with it without specific step-by-step instruction. But I do see alot of people using the Avia also so I'm unclear which one would best serve me & this set.

I have ver. 1111

ht - Great! Do you all prefer the DVE over the Avia?
I've only used DVE. It's more recent and less oriented to CRT based sets. Either one would probably work but I think I got good results with DVE.

Just do a search at Amazon for "digital video essentials".

Has anyone tried to use the Anynet port on their 5674W to control it? Is it even possible? I just want to turn it on/off and change the input.

Best I've heard -- lots of people paid more than double that just 6 months ago.
A 10% discount would have paid for a bulb so when you think about your price and Costco's excellent return policies you did great.

Heck, I paid $1,100 more for the 4674 6 months ago!

I just picked up the 5674 from Vann's - their price has dropped significantly - still cost me quite a bit less then the 4674 did last Nov. It was too good a deal to pass up. I'm glad the HLR's came out so quickly- the HLP's are a steal if you can find them at a reputable dealer. I'll take the extra digiatal input over a tuner any day :) .

I have just upgraded from my 2 year old HLN507W to a new HLP5674W. Although the bulb hasn't broken in yet, I wanted to verify the initial settings that are most common to achieve the most natural Kelvin lighting before tweaking. I have a HD receiver from Dish Network run through DVI and a Sony DVD player through component (model?)

Gamma: 0
Mode: Cinema
Color: Warm 1

Are these the most typical to achieve 6500K?

I'll take the extra digiatal input over a tuner any day :) .

Actually, the new (1080p) HLR's have the extra digital input (2 HDMI inputs) and also have the tuner and cable card.

I have just upgraded from my 2 year old HLN507W to a new HLP5674W. Although the bulb hasn't broken in yet, I wanted to verify the initial settings that are most common to achieve the most natural Kelvin lighting before tweaking. I have a HD receiver from Dish Network run through DVI and a Sony DVD player through component (model?)

Gamma: 0
Mode: Cinema
Color: Warm 1

Are these the most typical to achieve 6500K?

Hi

The HLP defaults to Standard, Warm 1, upon entering the service menu, so one could assume this would be the appropriate settings for tweaking. Out of the box, at those settings, they are generally no where near 6500K. They can however be tweaked to get in the D65 ballpark by a professional calibration. This can only be done in the service menu, with the right equipment and quite a bit of time. If you want to set your black and white levels with DVE or Avia, I would suggest using the default settings, Standard, Warm 1.

Actually, the new (1080p) HLR's have the extra digital input (2 HDMI inputs) and also have the tuner and cable card.

But you've got to spend a lot more for the 1080's vs. the HLP's which are being given away compared to what they were asking six months ago. I find it hard to justify spending 2 to 3 times as much for 1080p when we are years away from any 1080p content, if it ever comes at all. I wonder what the results would be of blind testing 720p and 1080p sets being fed 720p and 1080i content.

The introduction of the 720p HLR drove the price down of the HLP, so the 74's commanding any kind of price did not last very long, which is great for anyone buying now that wants the two digital inputs on the TV. I still have yet to meet anyone that uses their TV's tuner - cablecard is another issue assuming your cable company supports it.

But you've got to spend a lot more for the 1080's vs. the HLP's which are being given away compared to what they were asking six months ago. I find it hard to justify spending 2 to 3 times as much for 1080p when we are years away from any 1080p content, if it ever comes at all. I wonder what the results would be of blind testing 720p and 1080p sets being fed 720p and 1080i content.



Have you seen the new powerbuy prices for the 1080p sets? They are quite attractive and actually less than the 63 series of a year ago. Admittedly, you could get an HLP for less, but I'm not sure I agree with you about the 1080p content. It's not only about content. First, it has the 10,000:1 contrast ratio. Also, it displays everything at 1080p, which is a significantly better resolution than 720p. However, having said this, if you screen is under 56" or if you are not sitting close to the set, 1080p may not make that much of a difference.

Hi

The HLP defaults to Standard, Warm 1, upon entering the service menu, so one could assume this would be the appropriate settings for tweaking. Out of the box, at those settings, they are generally no where near 6500K. They can however be tweaked to get in the D65 ballpark by a professional calibration. This can only be done in the service menu, with the right equipment and quite a bit of time. If you want to set your black and white levels with DVE or Avia, I would suggest using the default settings, Standard, Warm 1.

I hate to disagree with a professional, but most of the rest of us using DVE or AVIA start with Cinema and Warm1.

In fact, in a thread a while ago (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4941914&&#post4941914) there was a discussion of how the same settings in Cinema and Standard didn't look the same at all.

Brad

Right, just because we typically calibrate Standard (since it is the default when you enter service mode) doesn't mean it is the best to start from if you aren't getting it calibrated. I haven't looked (since I calibrated mine right away), but Cinema may well be a better starting point.

After having a HLP4674W for a month, I think I've discovered all the operational problems with this model. The oddest of all was the coaxial RF output 'ANT 1 OUT' should be marked and used as 'ANT 2 OUT', because if you connect a cable feed to ANT 1 IN it won't output on ANT 1 OUT. If you connect it to ANT 2 IN it outputs correctly, despite the minor loss of connection (causing screen flash) when the TV is turned ON/OFF. For this reason, I've decided NOT to use the ANT OUT to connect to my HD DVR cable box as recommended in the owners guide and by Samsung online. Instead I've split the cable before the TV and feed the other to the cable box.

The other odd fact about inputs is that audio is not turned on until the video signal is present on inputs 1 - 3 (composite and S-Video). Not a problem, but something to be aware of.

There appears to be no discrete remote control code for ON with this TV, but a work around using a discrete power off command, pause and then toggle the power ON/OFF button. Also no functioning discrete codes for AV2 input and ANT 2. If anybody knows these codes or has them working, please let me know. Other than that I have all discrete codes working for the other inputs AV1,AV3,SVID1-3, DVI, HDMI and PC with Home Theater Master remote control MX-850.

Quick question about the DVE disc and HDTV in general. Is there a way that our TVs can be calibrated without using these dics? The reason I ask is that I have a DVi connection from my DCT-6412 settop box to my TV and a HDMI connection from my DVD player to my TV.

Of course, I want my video to look superb from the DVD, but I would love to know how to be able to calibrate my DVI output for my HDTV. Does this make sense. Sorry if this is basic- I'm a newbie and haven't been able to find this answer. Thanks.

Quick question about the DVE disc and HDTV in general. Is there a way that our TVs can be calibrated without using these dics? The reason I ask is that I have a DVi connection from my DCT-6412 settop box to my TV and a HDMI connection from my DVD player to my TV.

Of course, I want my video to look superb from the DVD, but I would love to know how to be able to calibrate my DVI output for my HDTV. Does this make sense. Sorry if this is basic- I'm a newbie and haven't been able to find this answer. Thanks.

I assume the DCT-6412 is a cable box? I have DirecTV, but I believe INHD runs a test pattern (similar to HDNet on DirecTV). Check your program guide, or do a search for INHD test patterns.

Thank you tjk-
I will definintely try to look up a test signal on INHD. Thanks again.

Anyone know why my tv turns on my cable box? i thought it was the remote at first, but cable box turns on when I power on the tv manually. I'm asking b/c i've got to turn the tv on first before i can turn on the cable box (connected through hdmi) otherwise it gives me a funky picture for a second.

thanks

I just received a Harmony 880 remote. I can set the remote according the comman response times the 4674 requires Does anyone know what those times might be? Has anyone seen any documentation on the topic?

The settings are for:

Power On Delay: ms 25000 default
Inter-key Delay: ms 100 default
Input Delay: ms 1000 default
Inter-Device Delay: ms default

Ill play with it and see what happens

Craig

Power On Delay: ms 25000 default
Inter-key Delay: ms 100 default
Input Delay: ms 1000 default
Inter-Device Delay: ms default

Ill play with it and see what happens



I answered someone else about this in the remote forums --

I only delay at most 200ms between all commands useing my HTM MX-800 when sending macros to my 5674 -- the screen might not be ready immediately but it accepts the next command at least that fast maybe faster.

Hey guys I am looking into buying the HL-P5674W. I love the way it looks and have heard very good things about it. I have a few questions, however, before I buy it and was wondering if you could answer them for me.

1) How do video games look on this tv? I have hear of problems with the fast movement of games.

2) I am not sure if I should wait for the refresh of the 1080P sets next year before I buy a new tv. Do you think the 1080P sets are going to be alot better than the 720p set and just a slight upgrade?

3) Does anyone know if the slim bezel will continue in the new sets or die with the HL-Rxx74W sets?

Thanks in advance! :)

My latest 5674 observations.........

My current set up is as follows: Samsung TS160 via DVI @ 720 and Denon 2910 via HDMI @ 480p.

When I first got the 5674 my observations were similar to others in that the HD content looked very good and the SD not so good. I bought the 2910 because of the ability to upconvert to 720p (and audio reasons as well) thru HDMI and for the high marks that many Samsung 4674/5674 owners were giving the Sammy/Denon combination. I came to the conclusion that the best PQ I could achieve with the 2910 was set it at 480p as opposed to the 720p as the 720p seemed to introduce more "noise" in the picture and what I assumed to be macroblocking was more prevalant. The scene that I always refer to is the hair cutting/love scene in the Bourne Identity. At 720p the walls behind them were extremely "noisy" and I was assuming that this was the MB rearing its ugly head. At 480p, the same scene looks much better.

Okay....after doing what my wife refers to as "obsessing" over the PQ, I have begun noticing that what I was looking for as MB in the 2910 (because this is a problem that can be associated with that player), I am now seeing thru my STB on SD content (minimal on HD). This leads me to conclude that this issue with me is display dependent. Are other 4674/5674 owners out there experiencing similar issues? And if so, what are you doing to minimize these issues?

I should point out that I am very pleased with both my 5674 and 2910. I just want the best out of both of them. I was watching my brand new SE copy of Bullitt last night when my wife walked into the room and said "that's a really clear picture" and I replied "yeah, not bad for a 1968 movie". It's times like that when I realize I should probably do more enjoying and less obsessing but that seems to be a difficult task for me.

And as for the rainbow effect... If anyone is considering a DLP, don't let someone dissuade you from considering a DLP because of the RE. I do see occasional rainbows but it doesn't distract me to the point of not enjoying my viewing experience. I really do think that you do somewhat get used to the occasional rainbow and it's quickly dismissed (at least in my mind). I know there are those who say you shouldn't have to "get used" to your tv, but for me it works and it's not really a problem.

Any comments/observations/suggestions welcomed.

p.s. I have not had my set ISF'd (obviously), but I have used Avia and HDNet.

My latest 5674 observations.........
p.s. I have not had my set ISF'd (obviously), but I have used Avia and HDNet.
As a wise old man once said, "If you obsess, ISF calibrate." :)

I just picked up a HLP5674 display model at my local Costco for $XXXX with stand included. The unit has been running for 15 days. Full price was $XXXX and the manager gave me 20% off of that.

Was this a good deal?

I just found it at my Costco with stand, too. How in the world did you get the manager to give you 20% off?

As a wise old man once said, "If you obsess, ISF calibrate." :)

So you think that would solve my problems huh? Weren't you getting a calibration yesterday or today? How did that go?

So you think that would solve my problems huh? Weren't you getting a calibration yesterday or today? How did that go?
This coming Tuesday. I'll post something as soon as I've had a chance to watch a few things.

This coming Tuesday. I'll post something as soon as I've had a chance to watch a few things.

Keep us posted. I will be curious to see what kind of improvements you see and in what specific areas.

[QUOTE=ace_gabbard]Hey guys I am looking into buying the HL-P5674W. I love the way it looks and have heard very good things about it. I have a few questions, however, before I buy it and was wondering if you could answer them for me.

1) How do video games look on this tv? I have hear of problems with the fast movement of games.


I use mine for gaming. Everything from Rome Total War to Half Life 2 and the TV has never let me down. I don't get any artifacting at all and the picture quality is superb. I have my HTPC connected using the DVI connection and I run everything (games included) at 1280x720. The clarity is unmatched. It makes the XBox which I also have connected look bad.

Hope that helps you decide.

Joe ->

I just picked up a 5674 floormodel from a Hifi Buys liquidation sale for an AMAZING price (<$2k!). One catch...they didn't have the remote. My buddy is mailing me his universal which he recently upgraded from, but until I get it, how much will I NOT be able to do with the side buttons once its delivered?

Most menu adjustments, including picture controls, setting up TV channels (scan). I would work on getting a full functioning remote ASAP. Places like www.remotes.com have part #BP59-00075A for HLP56/4674W , but for $75 pretty costly. About $25 cheaper at www.samsungparts.com. If you do end up going with a universal make sure it has menu,left,right,up, down and select (same as enter) for Samsung HLP, but it won't have PIP buttons or P.mode/S.mode for picture or sound. Home Theater Master (MX-700 or MX-800/850) and Logitech Harmony remotes have basic HLP commands, but for discrete commands likeselecting each input directly your best with a HTM remote. I'd be happy to send you or point you to HTM files on www.remotecentral.com.

Going with a full programmable remote you can get really into it, with macros and activity based buttons (ie. watch a move, turns DVD player on, selects TV input and sets up sound system). I have 8 video components all wired directly to my HLP and also to my Denon receiver. A real treat is using the Samsung HD-850 upconverting DVD player thru the HDMI interface. Although the HD-850 remote does have a few TV commands, it won't get you into the HLP menus. This wouldn't have been a bad solution for <$150 and you scored a new DVD player too, but still not a full functioning remote for your new TV.
.

Greetings,
I've been tweaking the settings on my month old 5674 using DVE, and I'm still not sure if I'm using the contrast setting correctly. I use the Cinema mode in warm 1. The basic contrast setting in DVE seems to be for CRT displays since it discusses blooming, etc. I've stumbled upon the "steps" pattern (the one with the sets of 3 dots), but I'm not sure what to look for or how to use it. I'm having the set ISF calibrated at month end, but I'm still curious. Anyone have any advice?
b.

Thanks for the thoughtful reply. I guess I don't want to spend the money quite yet for an HTM. I need to figure out what my buddy's "hand-me-down" universal is capable of. I've seen the samsung remote for this unit listed as a "con" in many reviews, so I'm not willing to order that quite yet. It sounds like once Comcast comes out and installs my HD DVR on Monday, I'll be able to watch TV - which is the simple goal in the short run.

Have had it four months, and the problem today is the lamp light is blinking but the set won't turn off/on.

First, it turns out I can work through all the menu functions without the remote :)

Now - I hooked up my 5 yr old Toshiba DVD (non-Progressive scan) to component 1 (monster cables) and the source would not recognize AT ALL. I switched to component 2 and the source recognized. Do I need to be worried that Component 1 is dead? I seem to remember reading that there is a difference between 1 and 2 but I can't find it. Once I played a DVD, it really looked AWEFUL (Crouching Tiger no less!)

Now ultimately, I want to pick up a reasonably priced upconvert DVD that includes the HDMI cable (Toshiba SD-5980) so I can use component with my Comcast HD-DVR next week. Any negative thoughts on that player?

First, it turns out I can work through all the menu functions without the remote :)

Now - I hooked up my 5 yr old Toshiba DVD (non-Progressive scan) to component 1 (monster cables) and the source would not recognize AT ALL. I switched to component 2 and the source recognized. Do I need to be worried that Component 1 is dead? I seem to remember reading that there is a difference between 1 and 2 but I can't find it. Once I played a DVD, it really looked AWEFUL (Crouching Tiger no less!)

Now ultimately, I want to pick up a reasonably priced upconvert DVD that includes the HDMI cable (Toshiba SD-5980) so I can use component with my Comcast HD-DVR next week. Any negative thoughts on that player?

For the 5674 and 4674 and the other HLP models both components are the same (it was the HLN and HLM models that had a difference between component 1 and 2,3)

No idea why component 2 would work and not 1 unless maybe component 1 has gone bad. But the fact you said it looked really bad on component 2 makes me think there might be something wrong with component out from your player. Do you have any other equipment with component out to try.

Glad you could work thru the menus. Is your older Toshiba player ColorStream 480i output? I never tested component 1 for 480i input, but could be the problem.

Read the DVD player reviews on Hometheaterhifi.com http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-bin/shootout.cgi?function=search&articles=122

After reading this I went with the Samsung DVD HD-850 player. It comes with the HDMI cable for the same price as the Toshiba (also comes with cable), but the Samsung was rated better for HDMI output. Also the HD-850 remote will do basic TV functions by default for the HLP including volume, channel and input selection. If you do go with the HD-850 make sure the HD-850's audio is set to PCM in the audio setup menu to output audio to the HLP over the HDMI interface.

For the 5674 and 4674 and the other HLP models both components are the same (it was the HLN and HLM models that had a difference between component 1 and 2,3)

No idea why component 2 would work and not 1 unless maybe component 1 has gone bad. But the fact you said it looked really bad on component 2 makes me think there might be something wrong with component out from your player. Do you have any other equipment with component out to try.

I tried component 1 again and it worked... not sure what happened the first time.

Meanwhile, when I say the DVD is bad, I mean BAD. I have played with a few discs, and the dithering (or whatever you want to call the wiggling of edge lines) is aweful. And the colors all look washed out, but that may be a tv setting. I still need to figure out a quality picture setting.

Keep us posted. I will be curious to see what kind of improvements you see and in what specific areas.
Here it is. I'm still absorbing the changes. :o

SethS Calibrated Our HLP5063 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=548133)

To my surprise the remote sensor the the HLPxx74W is not behind the small circle LED panel below the Samsung logo, but inside the display, below the projector lense facing the mirror. I needed to mount a remote IR repeater and had to go inside to have it work correctly.. go figure!

I owe this thread so much...

My 5674 on its Tech Craft PTV583 with its Motorola 6412 dual-tuner HD-DVR (via Monster Components cables) and a new Panasonic S77S DVD player via HDMI ...... and it is pure bliss. I will never bother watching standard def on this TV.

I have had some trouble getting a "bright" picture on the set, which has me paranoid since it was a floor model. The lamp life is 1600. What are the signs of a diminushing lamp? (ie - overall picture dimming, or darker corners, or reduced viewing angle, etc...)

Now I just need to find a DVD that will show it off AND I haven't already seen (no LOTR, Star Wars).

Greetings Redztone,
I have owned a new 5674 for about the past month and have noticed the same thing regarding the relative "brightness" of the picture.
I have tweaked the brightness and contrast user settings via DVE and still it seems that the darks are crushed a bit and the whites are a bit exaggerated.
I'm tempted to go into the service menu to adjust the gamma setting, but since the display will be ISF calibrated next week I am going to avoid that temptation.
I'll post my impressions after the calibration.
b.

Redztone

I recommend an ISF calibration to set the gamma, grey scale, color balance etc correctly. I thought my set was stunning before the calibration. Now it is just plain awesome and "movie theatre"-like!!

Try "Fifth Element" to wow u and your friends!!

enjoy

It sounds like one more plus for the HLPxx74 series -- people over on the HLR threads are saying expand mode is no longer available so no more one to one pixel mapping for the newer displays. Combine that with the fact they can't shut off DNIE and we continue to have the best DLPs Samsung has shipped to date.

Questions by a new owner:

When I watch an HD program in Wide or in Panorama mode, I have black strips on the top and bottom? Why am I not getting a full screen image? Am I missing something in the setup? I have a Comcast HD receiver hooked up to AV1.

Any help would be appreciated.

Paul_PDX

sounds like we lucked out!!!

mismatched

grhoge

Make sure you set your display to Expand mode. And leave it there. Not all HD is full screen even under this setting. Your screen should be full on stations like Fox, ABC, ESPNHD most of the time, INHD1 and -2.

Oh heck I forgot to say that you also need to set your cable box to output correctly. Once you get the STB outputting 16x9 and 720p with 480i override off you should get all four aspect mode options on your Sammy using the "p. size" button.

PS I wasn't getting Expand mode until I found this suggestion from HTWAITS in another thread. Once I set my STB per these settings, all the supported modes for DVI work, including Expand...

HTWAITS wrote:
"You can get to the "6200's" setup menu by turning the TV on and selecting the STB input. With the STB OFF, press "menu" on the STB remote. Sometimes I have to press "menu" several times.

At some point a very crude menu will pop up. It looks like an old DOS screen.

Redztone

I recommend an ISF calibration to set the gamma, grey scale, color balance etc correctly. I thought my set was stunning before the calibration. Now it is just plain awesome and "movie theatre"-like!!

Try "Fifth Element" to wow u and your friends!!

enjoy

I noticed you're in Lake Oswego. Who did you use for your ISF? I'm in Corvallis.

falsedawn

I used Michael Chen. He is based in Calgary Alberta but makes trips down here every so often. He is great. I highly recommend him. If you wish PM me and I will forward his email address.

m

Thanks Mismatched...pardon the ignorance but what does STB stand for? Should I be connecting the Comcast HD receiver to AV in or to Component 1? You discuss Expand mode? Is this different from the Panorama mode?

Do I need to call Comcast to set up my box correctly? I didn't see where I can make any changes to the settings on the box.

Greetings Redztone,
I have owned a new 5674 for about the past month and have noticed the same thing regarding the relative "brightness" of the picture.
I have tweaked the brightness and contrast user settings via DVE and still it seems that the darks are crushed a bit and the whites are a bit exaggerated.
I'm tempted to go into the service menu to adjust the gamma setting, but since the display will be ISF calibrated next week I am going to avoid that temptation.
I'll post my impressions after the calibration.
b.

Thanks - I look forward to hearing the results of your ISF!

Thanks Mismatched...pardon the ignorance but what does STB stand for? Should I be connecting the Comcast HD receiver to AV in or to Component 1? You discuss Expand mode? Is this different from the Panorama mode?

Do I need to call Comcast to set up my box correctly? I didn't see where I can make any changes to the settings on the box.

I think STB is Set Top Box? I also believe Expand mode is equivalent tor Wide mode. An HD receiver should be connected via Component (Red, Blue, Green). Unless of course you can connect it to your STB (aka TV) via HDMI.

connect the Moto STB via DVI to your Sammy!! And I dont think that Expand is the same as wide screen...

Thanks Jamers and mismatched. I followed through on your suggestions and the PQ difference is tremendous.

Here's an update on my HLP4674W:

Samsung decided to replace the light-engine because of the large ring of internally reflected light and the focus issue I complained about. The new LE corrected the focus problem, but the ring of light is still there. It appears to be an optics design flaw, with no way to fix it.

Samsung has been very accommodating, and their customer service excellent. The only thing they may be able to do now is offer a refund or replacement. But they will certainly not be able to wrestle this set out of my hands, until I can find something better! And THAT is the trouble... I cannot find a better set. Apart from this one issue, I love EVERYTHING about the 4674.

On another topic, I bought the OPPO DV971H upconverting player at the beginning of the year. For $199 MSRP, this is one HECK of a player and makes a fantastic combo for the Samsung DLP. Unfortunately, being a Faroudja player, the occasional macroblock-enhance and lip-sync issues are typical side-effects. I have been able to suppress the macroblocking problem almost entirely, by calibrating the display to take advantage of it's FULL range of contrast. The resulting picture is simply stunning. As Samsung has demonstrated, the lip-sync issue can be fixed, and OPPO Digital remains committed to fixing it. OPPO has been working hard to release regular firmware upgrades to fix bugs and wishlist items.

Gary

I hope Costco still has the 5674 at a good price - I'll be checking it out tonight!

GoMo

My daughter got one at Costco with base for 2k (a floor model) last week. Talk to the dept mgr. With Costcos return policy this is unreal...as I paid $1400 more for mine 3 months ago.

Costco had the HLP5663 for $2,700. no thanks....

do different costcos have different pricing? there are 2 others in my area I could check out..

goMo

I think they all have same pricing for new unopened stock...but the DEAL is for the closeout of the last "floor sample". The manager sets the price to get rid of the floor unit.

The floor model will have lots of hours on the lamp but that is minor as the lamps last 2000 to 3000 hrs and cost about $250.

oh, ok... but if that model has been on the floor for 3 months, you're talking 12 hours a day x 90 days, so ~ 1,080 hours. that's half the life of the bulb already!!

Do a little math... half the bulb life is $125...a lot less than the $700 difference if you can get a floor demo.

yes, I understand that. I went to another Costco at lunchtime today, and they had the 5674. same price. the demo looked like crap. ghosting all over the place. not sure I'd want that demo!! I'll see if they can come close to matching online prices with a new model. Since I'm not a member there yet, maybe the enticement of them getting a new member will be a motivator for them to throw a discount on a new one. i'll let you know....

Costco - Discount something. LOL

Costco - Discount something. LOL

That's for sure -- they are dicounted so much to start with -- thats why the display models are such good deals they will deal with them when the model is otherwise sold out. Advantages -- they are burn't in -- the discount is more than the price of a bulb -- you can see if there are stuck/bad mirrors in advance -- you still have the Costco guarantee and return ppolicy available to you,

As to the newer models -- since I don't live in a region with cable tv they offer nothing new to me -- I still love my HLP5674

this set was the worst of about 25 sets around it. the picture would cut out for a second or two every ten seconds or so, the picture was incredible dark and poor. they only had one in a box next to it. not sure if they would have more somewhere, or if this was it. I'll go back tomorrow and check it out... can't hurt to ask.

this set was the worst of about 25 sets around it. the picture would cut out for a second or two every ten seconds or so, the picture was incredible dark and poor. they only had one in a box next to it. not sure if they would have more somewhere, or if this was it. I'll go back tomorrow and check it out... can't hurt to ask.

Sounds like a typical store -- they split one HD signal 20 ways and then some of the sets look like crap.. What you describve doesn't sound like any Samsung DLP I've seen.

I agree. I saw my 5674 at a first rate AV store and it blew away the competition including some plasma sets. You will not be disappointed in this set and those of us that bought at Costco not will be jealous at your discount!! then again we have been salivating over our sets for 7+ months now!! :D

Greetings,
I also purchased my 5674 at Costco after sending the better part of most of my waking hours obsessing over it for more time than I care to think about.
Buy the tv, since if you like the picture it's an outstanding value, use the savings for an ISF calibration and then start the process all over again on a dvd player. It never ends...
b.

I wanted to report on my experience with this issue, as I can recall a couple other people experiencing this. I had never had any problems with my set, until suddenly I started noticing that when shifting to a dark scene, I could still clearly make out a grayish afterimage of the previous scene that seemed burned into the dark areas of the image. I tried adjusting brightness and contrast to fix the problem but to no avail. Then I remembered I had been experimenting a little with DNIE and DNR, and had left the DNR on. What do you know, I turned of DNR and the problem was solved. So if anyone else is having this issue, just listen to the experts and leave all these "picture enhancing" features OFF.

Quick question, just got this TV.

I can't seem to figure out how change the expand/zoom mode it is in?

Also one annoying thing I seem to dislike compared to my Sony, when viewing analog cable thru my box it automatically expands all the 4:3 channels. (Only way I can change it is to set the TV to 4:3 mode which is a pain)

Anyway around that?

Thanks

I wanted to report on my experience with this issue, as I can recall a couple other people experiencing this. I had never had any problems with my set, until suddenly I started noticing that when shifting to a dark scene, I could still clearly make out a grayish afterimage of the previous scene that seemed burned into the dark areas of the image. I tried adjusting brightness and contrast to fix the problem but to no avail. Then I remembered I had been experimenting a little with DNIE and DNR, and had left the DNR on. What do you know, I turned of DNR and the problem was solved. So if anyone else is having this issue, just listen to the experts and leave all these "picture enhancing" features OFF.Fascinating! Thanks for the tip!

Indeed another reason to leave the "enhancement" features off!

Gary

"I can't seem to figure out how change the expand/zoom mode it is in?

Also one annoying thing I seem to dislike compared to my Sony, when viewing analog cable thru my box it automatically expands all the 4:3 channels. (Only way I can change it is to set the TV to 4:3 mode which is a pain)"

Greetings,
I don't have my owners manual in front of me, but I do recall that not all expand modes work for all inputs.
b.

Is there anyway to make the TV goto 4:3 mode if the input resolution is 480i and change to widescreen if it is anything else?

Also, where is the button to change expand/zoom settings on remote?

Is there anyway to make the TV goto 4:3 mode if the input resolution is 480i and change to widescreen if it is anything else?
Also, where is the button to change expand/zoom settings on remote?
Greetings,
The picture size button on the remote is on the extreme lower left hand side of the remote. I'm not sure about setting it into 4:3 mode but that should be somewhere in the owners manual. I assume you have the owners manual?
b.

I found the button, under the sliding part of the controller. Thanks for the tip.

Actually, I got a TV off the floor so they didn't even have the manual. Also I have realize I didn't get such a great deal as compared to prices people have gotten recently and other prices online. I paid about $2300 with 1600 hours of lamp use already. Trying to decide on if I should return it and get a new Sony 50" A10.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

I found the button, under the sliding part of the controller. Thanks for the tip.
Actually, I got a TV off the floor so they didn't even have the manual. Also I have realize I didn't get such a great deal as compared to prices people have gotten recently and other prices online. I paid about $2300 with 1600 hours of lamp use already. Trying to decide on if I should return it and get a new Sony 50" A10.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Greetings again,
You can find the manual on line at Samsung's website...at least it used to be there. If it isn't, send me a PM and I'll try to download it to you on a pdf file.
I bought my unit new from Costco for a few hundred more with a bundled stand on the recommendation of a Samsung executive as well as my ISF calibrator. I think the picture is superb, but YMMV.
b.

The manual is here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=466328&page=1&pp=30

the second post in this thread points to several resources for this set.

I have a Sammy 4674 and have been reading these posts. I have a question. I have a Direct TV HD receiver with a DVI connection. Many people have suggested using the expand mode to get one to one pixel mapping. However this mode is not available in my set-up screen. Only wide and 4x3 are shown. Any thoughts?

Your HD receiver must not be set to output 720p.

My receiver is set to Native 3 which outputs all signals in their native resolution except for 1080i which is output in 720p. Any other ideas?

My receiver is set to Native 3 which outputs all signals in their native resolution except for 1080i which is output in 720p. Any other ideas?

If you use native mode from the DTV box you will only see expand available when a 720p show is on -- (if you use the info/display key on the Samsung remote the pop up box has to show a 1280x720p source is being input.) Any other HD channels will only have wilde and 4:3 (480i channels will have the panorama and zoom modes available).

Your HD receiver must not be set to output 720p.

Hi Cheezmo, I sent you a PM.

Remars

Can someone explain to me how I can access the service menu on my HLP5674W? Is this also where I can check the firmware version? Thank you.

Greetings,
Use the search function and look for a post by user name "HTWaits" that describes it in detail.
Whatever you do, write down your setting before touching anything...there is no rest button, and you can do irrepairable damage without even knowing it.
b.

Hi All, I am curious on how the 74 model stacks up to the 1080p sammys that are starting to show up now and is there any media out there yet for these new set? thanks Paul D.

Hi All, I am curious on how the 74 model stacks up to the 1080p sammys that are starting to show up now and is there any media out there yet for these new set? thanks Paul D.

The picture on the 1080p models is great with 1080i programming - I actually think for 720p our hlpxx74 models look slightly better. Some of the new sets seem to have brought back the internal reflection problems that used to plague the HLN models so in that matter I still like the xx74s. Also the new sets can't shut off DNI (strange decision on Samsung's part).

Do the current Samsung 1080p sets actually accept 1080p inputs over HDMI? I thought they were still limited to upscaling to 1080p and that true 1080p input (from PC,XBOX360,BlueRay,etc) wasn't until next year (and those models will also have gaming modes to kill audio vs video lags from extra video preprocessing).

Hi All, I am curious on how the 74 model stacks up to the 1080p sammys that are starting to show up now and is there any media out there yet for these new set? thanks Paul D.
Greetings,
My recollection from the NYC CES show last spring was that the true benefits of the newer models would be dependent on combination of screen size and seating distance. I was advised that unless you were going to go larger than 56" that you might not be able to tell the distance given today's choice of input sources. I found that to be the case with my own eyes and purchased the 5674 and haven't looked back. YMMV,
b.

Greetings,
My recollection from the NYC CES show last spring was that the true benefits of the newer models would be dependent on combination of screen size and seating distance. I was advised that unless you were going to go larger than 56" that you might not be able to tell the distance given today's choice of input sources. I found that to be the case with my own eyes and purchased the 5674 and haven't looked back. YMMV,
b.Yes, I agree. The 1080p looks very nice when close to the screen, but at normal seating distance, the difference is insignificant. I prefer the sharp, true 1:1 pixel mapping of the 720p set anyway. And being able to turn off DNIe!

Has anyone been able to compare the black levels of the two models side by side in a dark environment? Is the black level (or the dark dithering) significantly better on the 1080p? Those are the only things that could eventually win my favor.

Gary

I had a quick question. I bought the Avia dvd. One thing I NEED to fix is geometry & convergence. Would anyone be so kind as to tell me where in the SM can I tweak this? Much appreciated.

You can't adjust convergence on a single chip DLP. Any "misconvergence" (a misnomer since you don't have separate color sources to converge) you see is due to the optics and not adjustable.

The only geometry adjustments in the service mode are vertical and horizontal position. Any other adjustments would have to be done with physical adjustments to the light engine.

the Man Cheezmo beat me to it. Convergence with this great set is a non issue!!

Thanks guys! That's too bad about the Convergence. Convergence is the bowing I see on 4:3 - right? And I can't fix that? Yipes. I hate that.

Now about the geometry. Shifting horiz & vertical is exactly what I need to do (moreso horizontal). At least on certain feeds, the image is skewed to the right and it drives me nuts. Any idea where I can find this specific 'button' in the SM? Thx!

I'll probably have this pro calibrated, but I'm not ready to do that just yet. If it will give me a better picture on SD - I'm there. I often watch MSNBC, Food TV, HGTV, etc. and it's just plain painful. I sure wish I could tweak it myself, but.....

Convergence is the bowing I see on 4:3 - right? No, that's called pincushion. And it's not adjustable.

Now about the geometry. Shifting horiz & vertical is exactly what I need to do (moreso horizontal). At least on certain feeds, the image is skewed to the right and it drives me nuts. Any idea where I can find this specific 'button' in the SM? Thx! The very top menu has X-position and Y-position adjustments that work well for this, but it may affect ALL your feeds.

Well I finally have the three blinking lights that are telling me my first bulb is dead -- Time to see how Magnolia does with their warranty. I have been meaning to check the number of hours for a couple months now so I have no idea how long it has lasted. I will make sure the service guy doesn't reset it without letting me see it first but I imagine we are up near 4000 hours or more.

Last week might have been the final stressor for the bulb -- six or seven fast power failures in my area all within a minute or so -- no way the the surge protectors could do much against that.

Well I finally have the three blinking lights that are telling me my first bulb is dead -- Time to see how Magnolia does with their warranty. I have been meaning to check the number of hours for a couple months now so I have no idea how long it has lasted. I will make sure the service guy doesn't reset it without letting me see it first but I imagine we are up near 4000 hours or more.

Last week might have been the final stressor for the bulb -- six or seven fast power failures in my area all within a minute or so -- no way the the surge protectors could do much against that. BUMMER! The power failures would definitely have had an impact.

Keep us posted, Paul. I'm interested to see your bulb life.

Gary

Folks in the HLR threads are tweaking their "Index" values from the SM. Anybody look into that with these sets? HLRs seem to have theirs default to 50. I just checked my "Index Delay" and it's at 100. Are these the same things? Or is this something not in our firmware?

Also, I had the chance to see a friend's Samsung 1080p set, it looked great, but the thing that impressed me the most was no motion dithering! You can test this by scrolling a .jpg around the screen, in our HLPs the image seems to break up with severe dithering and color banding while the 1080p set remains rock solid.

This bugs me the most about these older sets.

Folks in the HLR threads are tweaking their "Index" values from the SM. Anybody look into that with these sets? HLRs seem to have theirs default to 50. I just checked my "Index Delay" and it's at 100. Yes... we have the INDEX DELAY on our sets too. It adjusts the timing between the DMD mirrors and the segments on the color-wheel. If you've ever had a color-wheel or light-engine replaced, it could be WAY off.

I adjusted mine by eye, and later my oscilliscope confirmed that the setting I had picked was correct. See our discussion on the HLN thread, from this post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6509528&&#post6509528) onward. The only difference with the HLPxx74W sets is that when you select the INDEX DELAY setting in the service menu, a red band appears at the bottom of the screen, so there is no need to use a red field from Avia/DVE. I set the delay to 104 on my HLP4674W. This value may change a little from one set to another. There is a small "flat spot", that allows a tolerance of about 4 clicks in either direction of the "ideal" value.

Gary

Hey,
Has anyone had a problem with their TV just plain not switching on? It's only happened every few weeks/months & a unplug seems to reset things fine...kind of a pain going behind the e-center & unplugging the wrong one...should I be worried about my precious tv?

Oh boy... I don't know what that could mean.

Hey,
Has anyone had a problem with their TV just plain not switching on? It's only happened every few weeks/months & a unplug seems to reset things fine...kind of a pain going behind the e-center & unplugging the wrong one...should I be worried about my precious tv?

My HLP4674 has done that twice in 14 months. Simply unpluging it has always solved the problem, but it is scary when it happens.

A follow up on my bulb failure -- Magnolia got the bulb for me quickly and replaced it under my extended warranty with no problems and no cost. Our hour count surprised me the bulb really was due for a failure - 5683 hours -- not too bad.

Picture is definitelybrighter and the green push from when I first got the set is back - time to leave the set running for a few days to get past the bulbs break in color shift.

Not too bad on the hours! I'm glad it worked out well. Thanks for the info, Paul.

Gary

Hey- (at the dreaded-risk of going OT, I need some advice from the 'cool' sammy-ers)
I'm a current owner of the terrific Sammy 5674w & was looking to get another tv for the basement & was researching the for the best 1080p out there. But it's not easy...

It seems that toshiba, Mits, sony & sammy all have 'em & folks love 'em. I've searched around here a bit but haven't found a comparison of rear proj 1080p sets - could someone point me there?

I really did some hard looking before I settled on my sammy & am very happy with it (& maybe biased toward them), but this sony sxrd picture is pretty darn stunning! I got my 74 cause the "2+ chip" was considered the best (better than current one?) -- is there a similar "measurement" like that now that could be a decision-maker: segment wheel, light engine, 1080p on a chip? (I know it's also personal choice) -I'm going to look at the mits & sammy side-by-side at Ovation this afternoon...thanks for any help.

I haven't seen many of the 1080p sets long enough to compare but one thing you might want to be aware of is that Samsung has new sets coming out this spring (I think starting in March) that don't use the color wheels anymoire. That might make it worth waiting a bit to see the next gen set in action or til the prices drop on the older sets that still have wheels.

When I saw your post, Chris, I was going to post the exact same thing as Paul.

...got a little nervous when someone mentioned there bulb going out - how does one check the hours, again? What's the conventional/actual/average thought on the life of bulb? I'm only a couple of years in (with a 5 year warranty) with my 74w, so I hope I'm ok...

Also on the newer sammy's coming out, why do I care about color wheels or no wheels, again? I've never noticed the rainbow thang....will the new one have the AWESOME thin bezel design?

Greetings,
This past Friday I had my hl-p5674 recalibrated by Eliab @ www.avical.com.
I had recently updated my Oppo DVD player to the latest firmware. Prior to that I was getting the lingering feeling that my PQ had changed ever so slightly.
Eliab did confirm that the calibration settings had indeed changed, mostly through the process that the bulb goes through as it ages. He proceeded to do his usual meticulous job of calibrating the set to his detailed specifications.
The results were startling. The picture immediately had what I refer to as more "depth" in both DVD and HD applications.
Eliab proved to be more than helpful in my subsequent email follow-ups to him. He even took the time over the weekend to answer more of my admittedly obsessive tweaking questions.
Once again I have the satisfaction of knowing that my display is running at it's peak operating performance. I am also seeing a PQ as the original artists and directors intended it to be seen.
Those are the continuing benefits of an Avical ISF calibration by Eliab.
b.

Thanks for sharing, Bob.

Gary

Thanks for sharing, Bob.

Gary
Gary,
You are entirely welcome.
Do you still have your 5674 and if so how is your set holding up these days?
Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.
b.

Gary,
You are entirely welcome.
Do you still have your 5674 and if so how is your set holding up these days?
Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.
b.Hi Bob. I still have my 4674, and I love everything about it, except for the huge ring of internal reflection in the optics (Samsung's customer service department has decided to ignore my pleas, in the hopes that I'll go away... that's not going to happen).

Coupled with either of the OPPO players, and a good calibration, the image from DVD is still incredible.

Gary

Hi Bob. I still have my 4674, and I love everything about it, except for the huge ring of internal reflection in the optics (Samsung's customer service department has decided to ignore my pleas, in the hopes that I'll go away... that's not going to happen).

Coupled with either of the OPPO players, and a good calibration, the image from DVD is still incredible.

Gary
Greetings Gary,
Sorry to hear about the internal reflections. Are you sure it is inside the optics? Eliab @ www.avical.com did a custom duvetyne lining in mine last fall that had to eliminate any possible internal reflections. PM me if you would like any details.
I am still using the Oppo 971 and waiting on the sidelines for HD-DVD.
Hope all remains well,
b.

I own the HLP4674w for more than one and half years. It was perfect until
recently, it has display problem.
It keeps displaying "set mute off" message on the screen after power on.
But after I turn off the mute function, it's volume bar just stay on the screen
and did not fade away :mad: . The most weird thing is that, no matter what
volume you turn to, it automatical turns down to zero and stays there :mad:
It is really bothering me, that it always displays some message on the screen
when you are watching TV. I tried to unplug the power and restart the TV,
but the problem did not go away. Another problem is that, I can not use the
remote control to do anything. Since it always comes back to display the volume,
my select doesn't stand.

I don't know it is the sensor/remote problem or the overlay design problem!!
Any input will be appreciated, since it already pass the warranty period.

Is there any chance that some other remote in the room is continuously transmitting due to a stuck button or something sitting on top of it?

Have your tried taking the batteries out of the remote on the chance it is causing this?

Unfortunately you can't cover the IR sensor to see if something in the room is sending IR at your set since the ir sensor is inside the screen.

hi Paul,
That was the first thing I checked. There is only one remote I was using,
which is a Denon all-in-one. I removed the batter of the remote. Same thing
happens.
If the remote is transmitting the command, the light on the TV sensor
will be twinkling. But I did not see that happen.
Maybe the sensor circuit problem??? :(

I know this is highly unlikely -- Is the Anynet cable plugged in the back by any chance ?

Not, not anynet connection. Basically, the TV is just for display. All other
audio connections are using my Denon AVR-3806 central controller.
The only audio connection for the TV is coming from the HD receiver. This is
used only when the AV controller is off. That's why usually I just set the
MUTE on.

Looks like my second bulb has gone out on my hlp5674 -- the last one was over 5600 hours and I imagine this one will be similar. Yesterday was another power failure just like the first time so I imagine a UPS might have stretched the life abit longer. It will be nice to bring back that bright new bulb image.

Looks like my second bulb has gone out on my hlp5674 -- the last one was over 5600 hours and I imagine this one will be similar. Yesterday was another power failure just like the first time so I imagine a UPS might have stretched the life abit longer. It will be nice to bring back that bright new bulb image.
Greetings,
Seems like pretty good lamp life....are you getting replacements through Samsung Parts?
b.

Greetings,
Seems like pretty good lamp life....are you getting replacements through Samsung Parts?
b.

I bought a four year warrantee extension which included bulbs from Magnolia. Because of that we tend to leave it on way more than we probably should.

Looks like my second bulb has gone out on my hlp5674 -- the last one was over 5600 hours and I imagine this one will be similar. Yesterday was another power failure just like the first time so I imagine a UPS might have stretched the life abit longer. It will be nice to bring back that bright new bulb image. Good grief... you are heavy on bulbs! At least you're making full use of the TV!

Gary

hlp5674 users I have a question.

My friend has a hlp4674, uses Time Warner cable and the TV automatically switches from 4:3 to 16:9 depending on SD or HD siginal. He uses component cables from the cable box.

My hlp5674 will not automatically switch between 4:3 and 16:9. I have to manually switch using the "p.size" button on the remote every time...a big pain. I use DirectTV satelite feed also with component cables.

I have tried the menus and I THINK I have the same settings as he does but still have the problem. Your help appreciated!!

My hlp5674 will not automatically switch between 4:3 and 16:9. I have to manually switch using the "p.size" button on the remote every time...a big pain. I use DirectTV satelite feed also with component cables.
Greetings,
I use Comcast on my HL-P5674 and have never had to change the settings. I leave the Sammy on 16x9.
I'm not familiar with Direct TV so I don't know what setting options are available to you.
YMMV,
b.

hlp5674 users I have a question.

My friend has a hlp4674, uses Time Warner cable and the TV automatically switches from 4:3 to 16:9 depending on SD or HD siginal. He uses component cables from the cable box.

My hlp5674 will not automatically switch between 4:3 and 16:9. I have to manually switch using the "p.size" button on the remote every time...a big pain. I use DirectTV satelite feed also with component cables.

I have tried the menus and I THINK I have the same settings as he does but still have the problem. Your help appreciated!!

The cable box may have a setting a well as the TV -- my tivo does -- I leave my HLP set as 16:9 and set my Tivo to pillarbox.

Good grief... you are heavy on bulbs! At least you're making full use of the TV!

Gary

Someone is home almost all of the time so the set tends to be on about 18 hours a day even if no one is in that part of the house.

Has anyone had problems with their color wheel. I have the Samsung HL-R4677, and after 15 months the TV is making a humming noise and I'm being told that the color wheel needs to be replaced. $500 seems high to me and I think this is ridiculous seeing that the tv is only 15 months old. :mad:

Don't feel too bad, I had my light engine go out just after a year and that cost me $810 to replace. No help from Samsung at all.

This was my first and last Samsung product. My last big screen lasted 15 years and this one barely makes it over one. I realize this is a somewhat new technology, but this is ridiculous.

Anyone hear using a Toshiba HD DVD Player? I plus 2 others in the HD DVD forums are having issues passing blacker than black levels via HDMI to HDMI. Component passes just fine and many non Sammy owners have no issues at all. My previous scaling DVD player had no issues with BTB via HDMI.

I'm trying to figure out if there is some weird communication issue between our TVs and the Toshiba HD DVD players.

Thanks,
Mike

I believe I am one of those two, and my previous upscaler, Denon 1900, also passed BTB correctly.

It is odd, but I want to note that I think the combo of the 4674 and the XA2 is stunning. Who would have thought that Seabiscuit could be utter eye candy. Even at this size, the XA2 and HD-DVDs are a leap forward from DVD in terms of PQ.

I believe I am one of those two, and my previous upscaler, Denon 1900, also passed BTB correctly.

It is odd, but I want to note that I think the combo of the 4674 and the XA2 is stunning. Who would have thought that Seabiscuit could be utter eye candy. Even at this size, the XA2 and HD-DVDs are a leap forward from DVD in terms of PQ.

I wish I could rationalize buying an XA2. But I'm trying to hold out to see how Q4 shakes out in the format war and see if any new models are coming and also see how good the upcoming Samsung Duo player is. I'm also hoping someone includes SACD and DVD-A support.

It's killing me to see the prices on the XA2 but worst case I can probably get one on close out later on and snatch up one used from folks who upgrade down the road.

Do recall, did you comment if yours passes BTB via component?

Also, are you using DVE? Can you get your colors correct? No matter what I try, the greens are too heavy. From what I've read in this thread, this is just the way the set is set up and cannot be corrected unless you professionally calibrate it. Which I think I will do next time my bulb needs replaced.

Hey everyone, how long did your lamp last?

I had one replaced at 14 months (not sure how many hours). I'm guessing 2000. I think my 2nd bulb is getting ready to go after 15 months. My display looks really dim. It has been 2200 hrs.

Obviously I'm not getting anywhere near the 5000 hrs they quoted.

How about everyone else? Just wondering if I had 2 bulbs that weren't that great or could the 74 series be notorious for burning bulbs quickly.

On my HLP5674 the first one lasted 5600 hours, the second one went out after about the same number of months for me so I would guess similar hours but we haven't replaced the bulb yet because we are remodeling.

I've had my HLP4674 for just over 2 years now and the bulb seems to be going strong. I haven't checked the lamp hours in a while though. I would guess I'm around the 3000 hour mark, but that may be a conservative estimate.

I hope I can make it past the 5000 hour mark. I'm not sure if I'll bother with a lamp replacement our just look for a new 1080p set. I know replacing the lamp would be a cheaper option, but I'm really craving a larger 1080p set that can take advantage of my HD-DVD player.

I'm curious though how difficult the lamp replacement process is. Can you do it yourself? How much did your replacement lamps cost?

Its down to $149 from Samsung -- quite a drop from the beginning.
http://www.samsungparts.com/part_detail.asp?catalog%5Fname=Parts+and+Accessories&category%5Fname=&product%5Fid=BP96%2D00224J

I get mine for free for 4 years due to the everything warranty I bought a Magnolia.

Can anyone who still has the info (and who is still following this dusty old thread) direct me to the final list of Radio Shack/OFA discrete codes for our TVs. The link at the top of this thread is no longer operational.

In particular, I'm looking for the codes for HDMI and discrete off.

Thanks.

Can anyone who still has the info (and who is still following this dusty old thread) direct me to the final list of Radio Shack/OFA discrete codes for our TVs. The link at the top of this thread is no longer operational.
In particular, I'm looking for the codes for HDMI and discrete off.
Thanks.
Greetings,
While I still follow this thread, regretably I don't have the codes.
However, you might want to try asking on the remote control forum.
YMMV,
b.

Can anyone who still has the info (and who is still following this dusty old thread) direct me to the final list of Radio Shack/OFA discrete codes for our TVs. The link at the top of this thread is no longer operational.

In particular, I'm looking for the codes for HDMI and discrete off.

Thanks.The code I use for discrete off is EFC 253. The discrete code for hdmi (EFC 067) does not work for my set but reportedly work for sets with newer firmware. I use a 2 step macro for HDMI, the discrete code for component 2 (EFC 061) followed by the source/next input function (EFC 185). This works just as well as the individual disrete codes. Good luck.

Jay

Its been since Nov 04 I think on my 4674 and bulb is going strong. Where do you check the hours?

Its been since Nov 04 I think on my 4674 and bulb is going strong. Where do you check the hours?
Greetings,
The info is all contained in this thread.
You might want to do a search on "lamp" or "bulb" to find what you need.
Be careful in the service menu,
YMMV,
b.

Its been since Nov 04 I think on my 4674 and bulb is going strong. Where do you check the hours?

You can view them from the service menu. As noted above, you can find the code to get into within this thread. Try a few searches and you'll probably find it.

If you go into the service menu, all your user settings will reset. So write down all your settings!

I've had my HLP4674 for just over 2 years now and the bulb seems to be going strong. I haven't checked the lamp hours in a while though. I would guess I'm around the 3000 hour mark, but that may be a conservative estimate.

I hope I can make it past the 5000 hour mark. I'm not sure if I'll bother with a lamp replacement our just look for a new 1080p set. I know replacing the lamp would be a cheaper option, but I'm really craving a larger 1080p set that can take advantage of my HD-DVD player.

I'm curious though how difficult the lamp replacement process is. Can you do it yourself? How much did your replacement lamps cost?

Have you checked if your HD-DVD player can pass "Below Black" tests? Using Digital Video Essentials (both HD and SD), my A2 fails below black via HDMI but passes using component. This is not an issue with most people and I've kept wondering if I have an issue with the player in general or if the communication with the A2 and the 4674 is just a bit screwy.

Have you checked if your HD-DVD player can pass "Below Black" tests? Using Digital Video Essentials (both HD and SD), my A2 fails below black via HDMI but passes using component. This is not an issue with most people and I've kept wondering if I have an issue with the player in general or if the communication with the A2 and the 4674 is just a bit screwy.

I don't have the DVE calibration disk, so I haven't checked that. I should probably look into doing a more thorough calibration of my set.

The code I use for discrete off is EFC 253. The discrete code for hdmi (EFC 067) does not work for my set but reportedly work for sets with newer firmware. I use a 2 step macro for HDMI, the discrete code for component 2 (EFC 061) followed by the source/next input function (EFC 185). This works just as well as the individual disrete codes. Good luck.

Jay

I got the discrete off working, but can't get discrete on to work. I am trying EFC 001, which was in the list where I got all my other codes that are working fine.

Anyone have a discrete on working correctly?

Question relative to Audio Output.... Does the audio out work for all sources.. i.e. will audio from component and hdmi inputs be switched to the output or just the RF, AV and S inputs? The manual suggested that only RF, AV and S were switched and outputted. This makes sense for video but not for audio. Ive searched the forum but I dont find any relevant posts covering the question.

Thanks.

Greetings,
My HL-P5674 had it's yearly recalibration yesterday by Eliab @ www.avical.com. It is going on 2,200+ hours still on the original bulb.
Eliab did confirm that there was some minor drifting in a few settings due to bulb age, but that the differences were subtle.
He did manage to increase the peak lightout a bit, which should help with certain shadow level details.
All in all I remain pleased with the Samsung, and Eliab's attention to detail and work ethic remains state of the art.
YMMV,
b.

Does anyone know how to access the "tech menu" screen that shows you the number of hours on your bulb, etc? I have seen this screen when the tech was out once before, and didn't think at the time to ask how to display it. Thanks.

Here are instructions (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4687613#post4687613), courtesy of htwaits. Please read all of the nearby warnings and caveats so that you don't transform your lovely DLP TV into a brick.

I have had my HLP5685 for about 4 years now, I use the it in my study and think it still has a better picture than probably any other HD-TV that I own regardless of the fact it is not 1080p.

Well just playing around on this site last week I ran across the service menu codes for the TV tried to use them but the unit never went to the service menu. The TV now has set itself back to the original setting and the picture appears darker then it has ever looked.

Has anyone experienced this before? Have I gone crazy, did nothing really happen, or do you think the bulb has just started to fade?

Any help would be great, thanks.
Ben

After three years my HLP5674 color wheel has shatered -- nasty sounds like parts bouncing around inside the set followed by a overly crisp black and white screen. My Magnolia warrantee is working for me again (and I have a year left on it) -- so far I have gotten 2 new bulbs and tomorrow they will come out and try an replace the color wheel (and I assume clean out the shattered glass).

I knew about wheel failures (my projector had a bearing go out under warrantee) but I had no idea about shattering wheels. However after searching it seems quite common (http://www.jangro.com/a/2006/07/24/samsung-dlp-replace-color-wheel/).

Has anyone else experienced this?

After three years my HLP5674 color wheel has shatered -- nasty sounds like parts bouncing around inside the set... Good GRIEF!

Gary

Good GRIEF!

Gary
Greetings,
Yikes....and I'm still on my original bulb.
YMMV,
b.

The service guy was out yesterday and cleaned out a bunch of glass -- unfortunately they didn't listen to me when I told them it was a color wheel failure so he has to order the part and come back -- glad we have a projector to keep the relatives entertained over the long weekend...

have a great thanksgiving ...

...unfortunately they didn't listen to me when I told them it was a color wheel failure so he has to order the part and come back... Typical.

Gary

I'm still on my original bulb... Me too - but I only use it to watch a movie 2 to 3 times a week.

Gary

A couple of days ago (Tuesday) my HLP4674 started acting strange...the picture was intermitently flashing and then the colors started changing to green and purple. I was watching a recorded program from my DVR and when it first started I figured it was probably some kind of signal issue on the cable box. It was late and I didn't want to spend a lot of time figuring it out so I shut it off. Wednesday it seemed OK, but then yesterday it started up again and got worse.

After about 2 hours of watching TV, the screen started flashing (and at times the images would also move around the screen), until finally the flashing stopped and the colors stayed changed...everything was purple/pink and green. I shut the TV off for a few minutes and then turned it back on and the color reset itself, but after a few minutes the whole process started again.

Luckily, I do have a 4 year warranty from Magnolia (I purchased it in Feb '05), and I am waiting for a return call from the repair shop they gave me, but does anyone have an idea what the problem may be? I'm thinking a bad color wheel makes the most sense(?).

Thanks,
Dan :(

Luckily, I do have a 4 year warranty from Magnolia (I purchased it in Feb '05), and I am waiting for a return call from the repair shop they gave me, but does anyone have an idea what the problem may be? I'm thinking a bad color wheel makes the most sense(?) No, the kind of problem you are describing is more likely to be a bad Digital board or DMD board.

Gary

Well...the repair guy came today and of course, the TV wasn't showing the problem because I'd only had it on for about 45 minutes when he showed up. But he could tell that the color was off and said that he was going to order a new optical assembly for the TV. He said that would include a new color wheel, light unit & fan, so hopefully that will fix it.

The downside is it will take at least another 7-10 days before the parts are in and he comes back. At least I still have another year on the warranty if it doesn't work.

Well...the repair guy came today and of course, the TV wasn't showing the problem because I'd only had it on for about 45 minutes when he showed up. But he could tell that the color was off and said that he was going to order a new optical assembly for the TV. He said that would include a new color wheel, light unit & fan, so hopefully that will fix it. The light engine (optical assembly) includes the DMD board, so you may be in luck. Before he changes it, be sure to ask him to set the "INDEX DELAY" setting in the service menu. This sets the timing between the color wheel segments and the DMD (DLP mirror chip). Changing the light engine resets this to an incorrect default value. Many service techs overlook this step, which can result in an awful picture.

See this post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=6951971&postcount=2167).

Gary

This set has been terrific and I am curious to hear about the consensus prospective life expectancy of this unit.

I have not yet replaced the bulb, but I do have one ready.

I do not have an extended warranty and wonder if, I am looking at an expensive repair in the near future?

My thirst for bigger and newer is looking at a 56 LED for 1080P, but we did pay a ton for these models (as early adopters) which is hard to justify a replacement after 3 years.

Opinions please.

This set has been terrific and I am curious to hear about the consensus prospective life expectancy of this unit.
...
Opinions please.

Mine is 3 years old this week -- is on about 14 hours a day. Bulbs have been lasting about 5800 hours for me and I am on my third. Mine is attached to a UPS at all times.

My color wheel failed about three weeks ago. If I hadn't had a warrantee a repair would have run about $400. If I had fixed it myself I could get the part for about $100. A new 56" set would still cost way more than a $400 dollar repair so for now I figure this set has at least three or four more years of life for my family.

I wonder if the new optical assemblies are new and improved, or the same at the stock units. That might influence my decision to repair or replace.

The light engine (optical assembly) includes the DMD board, so you may be in luck. Before he changes it, be sure to ask him to set the "INDEX DELAY" setting in the service menu. This sets the timing between the color wheel segments and the DMD (DLP mirror chip). Changing the light engine resets this to an incorrect default value. Many service techs overlook this step, which can result in an awful picture.

See this post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=6951971&postcount=2167).

Gary
Thanks for that information. I'll make sure I address it when he comes to replace it.

Dan

Repair tech came today and installed the new light engine and...it's like I have a new TV!!!! :)

Didn't even have to ask about the Index Delay settings...after he finished the the install he went right into the set-up and changed the settings (he had a sheet with the set up info).

I'm very pleased. :D

Repair tech came today and installed the new light engine and...it's like I have a new TV!!!! :)

Didn't even have to ask about the Index Delay settings...after he finished the the install he went right into the set-up and changed the settings (he had a sheet with the set up info).

I'm very pleased. :D Good news!

Gary

I have had my Sammy for about 2 years.

After the set is on for about 10 minutes, the color goes away and the display starts shaking. I can see some shades of yellow lines but they are all over the place. If I turn of the set for a few, I can get another ten miuntes out of it.

Has anyone seen this before?

After 9700+ hours on my original lamp, I thought I'd replace it to be on the safe side. The replacement was exactly the same Philips 100W BP96-00224C enclosure/bulb as the original, from www.discount-merchant.com. [Great price and service BTW.]

Problem is that the HLP4674 with the new bulb is way less bright than it was a few days ago. Seriously, white fields like 13 fL instead of more like 25, each measured after a full Sencore calibration.

Does a new bulb need time to "bloom" into something brighter? Was the old bulb way brighter than it was supposed to be? Do bulbs vary that much? I'd like some help to adjust or confirm my expectations before I contact the retailer. Any ideas?

I have had my Sammy for about 2 years.

After the set is on for about 10 minutes, the color goes away and the display starts shaking.



most likely your color wheel is failing .... is it making a different sound when it stops havin color?

Not sure if this is the correct place to post:

Have a 5674 that is 2 yrs old. Came home one day, turned on TV, no pic. Lights blinking. Look up code, and says replace lamp. Take out old lamp and yup, bulb is totally destroyed. Put new lamp in.

Now when TV starts, most of the time the middle indicator light flashes, get no picture (but do get sound), tv cycles off, restarts itself, tries again. Sometimes goes thru this 2 or 3 times, but eventually starts. On a few occassions, it will not turn on, I will cycle the on / off button, and then it will give me a picture.

Lamp is official samsung from the samsung parts dealer. Any ideas on this?

Thanks.

Don't know if anyone still monitors this thread. I turned on the tv this morning and was greeted with grayscale from the HDMI input. I checked another source from the side composite port with the same result. Luckily I bought a 5-year extended warranty when purchased in Feb 2005. Had a tech out this afternoon. He said it is not the color wheel. What should I expect?

I've changed the bulb twice. It is our most watched tv and mom and kids are not good about turning it off when leaving the house or going to bed. It gets sourced by a SA-8300HD, Oppo-971H, and VCR through a DVDO VP30, and a GameCube through the side ports. Overall, we've been very pleased with it.

Carlos

I'm in the SM now. I need to reset my lamp hours but can find no instruct on it that coincides with my HLP5674.

The Lamp Life is at 10,408 which I assume is my hours. I cannot select it. I'm blocked from that.

I see "LampClear", "User ReSet" That's all I could think of that would be pertinent. Can anyone help me reset my lamp to zero? Thanks.

EDIT: Nevermind. I selected LampClear and it worked. Thx.

Has anyone here successfully mounted an IR repeater/flasher to one of these sets? I know the IR sensor is inside near the lens.

I have already PM'd VideoNavi, who apparently found a way to route the repeater inside the set, but I am wondering if anyone else cracked this egg.

Thanks.

While I'm at it, I still have never found a Discrete On command for this set, despite lots of flailing around with various code sets, hexcodes and Radio Shack All-In-Ones.

Has anyone figured this out?

While I'm at it, I still have never found a Discrete On command for this set, despite lots of flailing around with various code sets, hexcodes and Radio Shack All-In-Ones.

Has anyone figured this out?For OFA and Radio Shack remotes the discrete on code is 001 and discrete off is 253. Good luck.

Jay

For OFA and Radio Shack remotes the discrete on code is 001 and discrete off is 253. Good luck.

Jay

Thanks Jay. I haven't been able to get 001 to work, though I will try it again.

What device # are you using? I think I was using 0060.

Thanks Jay. I haven't been able to get 001 to work, though I will try it again.

What device # are you using? I think I was using 0060.I am using a customized version of 0060. Also my model number is HLR4677W. I remember reading that some models needed a firmware upgrade for certain discrete code to work, although I thought those were regarding the input discretes rather that the on/off discretes. Does 253 work for discrete off? If it does and 001 doesn't work for on then I suspect that there isn't any other code that will work. Good luck.

Jay

Anyone here using a device # other than 0060 for the 4674 or 5674?

Has anyone here successfully mounted an IR repeater/flasher to one of these sets? I know the IR sensor is inside near the lens.

I have already PM'd VideoNavi, who apparently found a way to route the repeater inside the set, but I am wondering if anyone else cracked this egg.

Thanks.

Looks like I'm coming to the party too late to get an answer on this.

Anyone?

Or nobody else has tried what you're asking...

Indeed, all is quiet on the Western front.

Gary

Bump.

I have had the HR20 for at least a couple years now, using it with an HLP5674. Within the last year or so, all of my SD channels became so completely overscanned that I cannot even read subtitles, or see the score of a game. It did not used to do this, but I guess one of the updates has caused this.

Is there a fix for this? I have run through the screen sizes on the TV menu, that helps only slightly, there is still significant cutoff.

It seems like there should be some way to adjust the HR20, but I have not found it. I'm connecting with HDMI.

[EDIT] OK, I nominate myself for official thread dumbass. All I had to do was scroll through the formats with the format button. Problem solved. DOH!

Has anyone here successfully mounted an IR repeater/flasher to one of these sets? I know the IR sensor is inside near the lens.

I have already PM'd VideoNavi, who apparently found a way to route the repeater inside the set, but I am wondering if anyone else cracked this egg.

Thanks.

I just mounted mine on the back of the unit facing up. It would catch the signal bouncing off the ceiling and the back wall with greater reliability than the RF system I took out of service that was inside the entertainment center cabinet. It doesn't take much exposure for it to work well, depending on your device.