Got the stand into the room. I am very pleased with the way it came out.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v628/patsan/misc/DSC_2176small.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v628/patsan/misc/DSC_2179small.jpg

Pat it looks beautiful with your set...Nice job. Enjoy!!!!

Thanks for all of the ideas. This is my first attempt at making anything significant with wood. I believe that the stand is sturdy but I am unsure how to "trim" it out to look more like furniture than just a wooden box. Anybody have any suggestions. I hope the attachments come out below.

Here's a couple more pics:

Thanks for all of the ideas. This is my first attempt at making anything significant with wood. I believe that the stand is sturdy but I am unsure how to "trim" it out to look more like furniture than just a wooden box. Anybody have any suggestions. I hope the attachments come out below.

We used oak molding on the bottom of ours, and small oak pieces for all the rest as you can see in our picture above. They sell it at Home Depot.

I want to build a TV stand using black laminate particle board. I have seen white melamine, white vinyl & woodgrain vinyl, but not black. It comes in 3/4" by about 23" deep by about 6' or 8' length. And the vertical side pieces come with holes pre-drilled for the shelf pegs. A friend bought some black a few years ago, but could not recall from which home improvement store. He said it was called furniture grade. He even bought what he called iron-on edging for the cut edges.

So far Home Depot, Lowes & Menards do not have black & said cannot order it. Has anyone ever seen the stuff I'm looking for? I have some tools, but not a woodworking shop as it appears some have. So I'm trying to keep it simple.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Mike

Yes, Black Melamine is available and can be had at the better hardwood lumber suppliers :0 here in Albuquerque.

Try Google, or call some cabinet shops in your area and ask where they get materials.

BTW, particle board is one of my two irrefutable proofs of the existence of Satan....

Yes, Black Melamine is available and can be had at the better hardwood lumber suppliers :0 here in Albuquerque.

Try Google, or call some cabinet shops in your area and ask where they get materials.

BTW, particle board is one of my two irrefutable proofs of the existence of Satan....


Is there any recommended technique to cutting melamine so that it does not chip? I presume a fine tooth, carbide tipped blade.

Is there any recommended technique to cutting melamine so that it does not chip? I presume a fine tooth, carbide tipped blade.

I've also put tape on it too.

There are also blades made specifically for cutting melamine.

They have a lot of teeth.

So I got my stand done (I'll post pics after work today) But am in need of some screwn in DVD holders for the pull-out shelf I have on the left hand side of my stand. Does anybody know where I can get these, a website or B&M store or anything? I just need those plastic guides that you can screw into the wood and make however wide you want? I would post a pic but can't find a website anywhere, everywhere just has full-on stands, or stupid CD wallets; not what I'm looking for.

What software do you use to reduce the size of a jpg so that it can be posted here. The picture right out of the camera is too big to post and I do not know how to reduce it.

Thanks

So I got my stand done (I'll post pics after work today) But am in need of some screwn in DVD holders for the pull-out shelf I have on the left hand side of my stand. Does anybody know where I can get these, a website or B&M store or anything? I just need those plastic guides that you can screw into the wood and make however wide you want? I would post a pic but can't find a website anywhere, everywhere just has full-on stands, or stupid CD wallets; not what I'm looking for.

Like these?
url (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=6068&SearchHandle=DADADJDDDADADDDGGBGGDFDBDJDFDEDACNGCDIDCDBCNDED IGEDHCNGCGFGBDICNGBDHDJGBDCDHGFDHDADHGFDCDADADADBDADADADADCG DGEDADADADEDADADADADADADADBDFDADADADBDADADADADADADADADADADAD ADBDADADADADCGDGEDADADADBDB&filter=cd)

here are a couple of pics of the first draft of my stand. next step is to come up with a finish that fits the room, which has a knockdown sheetrock finish with lots of arches.

What software do you use to reduce the size of a jpg so that it can be posted here. The picture right out of the camera is too big to post and I do not know how to reduce it.

ThanksMicrosoft's Image Resizer power toy:

http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/downloads/powertoys/xppowertoys.mspx

After looking around for months, I finally decided to build a stand for my 50" Samsung. I think it came out great for just a few hours of build time (thanks to my cousin the carpenter/cabinet maker) and a couple of hours of finish time.

I went with the antique white/maple theme because that's what our side tables and coffee table look like. I didn't get the shade of white just right but most people that see it think it's part of the set.

Got the center channel in there pretty nice with a spot for the HD DVR and the XBox360. I store xbox accessories in one side and kids DVD's in the other. All the rest of the HT gear is on the other side of the room in the corner.

OK, so after much time off from my project this summer, I'm finally at the stage where it is no longer in the shop and is in use. The TV didn't come until early August, so I needed that to get motivated and finish this thing.

Here's the basics on my project. 80x 22x 24 made of oak ply with veneer edging for the shelves and oak trim for the edging on the unit.

5 sections -- 2 for DVD/ CD pullout drawers, 2 for components and the center which originally was going to have no doors has the center channel speaker and Sat receiver.

Doors are panel doors I made with a slot cutter on a router, and joined with small biscuits. I used 1/4 inch solid oak for the cd doors and 1/4 inch tempered smoked glass for the 2 component sections.

The center speaker cloths insert was an afterthough. I actually just used L brackets to hold together a 1 inch frame and then stapled the speaker cloth on. The frame is held in with insert/ roller brackets ( or whatever they are called).

Hope this inspires others who've never done woodworking before to take the plunge. I certainly made some mistakes along the way, and probably wasted more than $100 in wood, but the finished product is worth the effort.

Thanks much to Ron Stewart for helping with advice and links to sawguides and of course to Ironhorse and everyone else who has contributed so much to this thread.

Best --Chris

Nice...I like all the extra room.

Chris... Nice Job!!! It really makes this old geezer happy to see how many people have tried and succeeded at building their own vision of the ideal TV stand. And I'd bet 50% or more wind up building some other items once they got their hands "dirty" and found out how much fun and how rewarding it is to design and create something in wood.

Keep those ideas and stands coming, because they inspire others that are lurking in the background wondering if they could do it.

Iron Horse,

What a great looking stand.

I previously posted a few questions here about materials & only looked at a few pictures, but never started at the beginning of the thread. Today I looked at Iron Horse's pictures & dimensions for the first time. Wow, mine looks like a twin! Mine is 63" wide, 18" deep and 21" high. Has 3 shelves across and a base just like his. Except mine is made of el cheapo laminated pine.

I wanted 3 shelves across so I could hold a center speaker. I used 20" wide shelves since my speaker is 19" wide. The factory Sony stand is 18" deep, which is also about the depth of my old equipment rack, so I used 18" pine. This was supposed to be a quick weekend project. Ha! I figured I'd use 36" long wood (2 pieces), cut in half & make a pair of vertical ends/dividers. And cut a bit off 72" long wood (2 pieces) in order to make the top & bottom pieces.

Sounded simple with only a few cuts. But some of the wood was not as square as I hoped. I don't have a table saw & used my 7" Skil saw and worked on my garage floor. So this took a lot more time than planned. But I'm coming down the home stretch. I have to cut the removable shelves & stain everything.

Which is what brought me back to this thread. I want a black stand, which is one reason I went with pine. I figured black would hide a lot of defects & knots. I figured the finish would hopefully look similar to black woodgrain speakers.

Anyone have suggestions or recommendations on which stain and finish to use?

I'll have to look into posting pictures, which I've never done.
Thanks in advance,
Mike

I went to a Woodcraft store & discussed my project with them. I explained I wanted black, and this should help hide any wood and/or construction defects. By the time we got done discussing all the steps & coats needed, he suggested paint. The salesperson said he's loosing a sale, but for my purposes that I might be better off just using a few cans of black spray paint. He felt aerosol spray paint was more durable than brushing on. I'm guessing I would need quite a few cans.

I do see what looks like some painted TV cabinets on this thread. But I'm presuming these were not done with spray cans of paint. Any suggestions on using a brush-on latex paint?

Spray cans can do a good job if you're careful...if you want to use black latex, make sure it's thin enough--use water or a product called "Floetrol"-- to make it spread smoothly, keep a wet edge, and not show brush marks. Also be sure to use a high quality brush, do two or three thin coats, and sand with 180 or 220 grit between coats.

Another option would be a black dye, but as your post suggests, anything other than paint becomes a multi step process.

Frankly, i would recommend spray cans, and I have been in the painting business for thirty plus years.

moonhawk,

Thanks for the reply. I stopped at a HD today & looked at their spray paints. They carry the Rustoleum brand. They had cheap ($.96), better ($1.98) and best ($3.19). The label recommended primer, which they have in gray. I figured gray followed by black would be good.

The $3.19 product covers 15 sq ft per can. I don't know if they figure on 2 thin coats or whatever it takes to completely cover. I have about 75 sq ft., which means 5 cans of primer & 5 cans of black minimum. Seems like a lot, but there is a lot of wood to cover.

Thanks again for the recommendation.

I would concur with the black spray paint recommendation. I built a small TV stand (for an old 25" TV) out of MDF some years back, and wanted to paint it black. At first I primed it with regular primer out of a can (bought a quart of white primer and the paint store tinted it dark gray for me), then brushed on one coat of black enamel, and it looked horrible with the brush marks and all. So I switched to spray paint for the finish coats, and ended up with the professional appearance I was going for.

Trick with spray paint is multiple thin coats. Two is too few; you'll probably want four or more. You want the coats to be thin enough so that they don't sag (big problem with spray paints, which are thin). Never start, stop, or reverse direction with the spray nozzle over your workpiece; that's guaranteed to give you a double coat in that area. Spray paints dry quickly; you get get in a whole bunch of coats done in the same time you could do a coupe of coats of brush-on paint.

By the way, you could get away with brushing on the primer. A good primer will be very, very flat with little in the way of brush marks. That should save you a few bucks.

Kenlex,

Thanks for your input. I'll have to check out the cost of brush on primer & see how much this saves.

OK people. I originally designed this for my Panny PT50lc13 which recently had it's demize. Happily the Samsung 61 which I replaced it with has about the same dimensions. The story was the wife said I can only buy a wide screen TV if she can hide it and it is not the focal point of the living room.

The cabinet has pocket doors with 18 and 16 inch doors which fold and then slide into the pocket. Room below for 4 drawers and a media PC.

Good job.

OK people. I originally designed this for my Panny PT50lc13 which recently had it's demize. Happily the Samsung 61 which I replaced it with has about the same dimensions. The story was the wife said I can only buy a wide screen TV if she can hide it and it is not the focal point of the living room.

The cabinet has pocket doors with 18 and 16 inch doors which fold and then slide into the pocket. Room below for 4 drawers and a media PC.


Stunning! Wish I knew how to create something like that!

Okay, you guys have motivated me to build a stand, since most of the ready-made stands I've seen are overpriced and cheaply made (e.g. particle board) or too expensive (costing more than my new Sony 50A2000).

A few questions -

How big of a center speaker compartment should I include? Right now, I'm using an Onkyo center speaker (6 1/2" h x 16" w), but may upgrade in the future and would like to make the compartment large enough to fit the majority of center speakers on the market. Would 7 1/2" x 18" provide enough of a margin?

Are doors important from a dust control aspect (to reduce the amount of dust that collects on and inside of AV components and might cause cooling or other issues? Or are doors just for cosmetic purposes?

Where do you get glass doors? Standard sizes only, or are they available in custom sizes for not too much more $? I don't think I've seen them at Home Depot.

Do remote signals pass through opaque glass doors without any problem? What about mesh door inserts?

I don't have the tools or expertise to do fancy joints (dadoe, mortise & tendon, bisquit). Are dowel joints strong enough if I use a back panel on the entire cabinet (with ventilation holes)? This would be my first carpentry project (my woodworking experience so far has been in highschool wood shop and refininshing old furniture). Does anyone know of a good carpentry site, preferably with plans and step-by-step instructions?

Thanks for any tips.

My center is 8.25x19.5
Doors are mostly cosmetic, but you should have 1 side open, or multiple sides vented for cooling. I wouldn't consider dust as a big factor when designing the stand.
Glass can be custom cut by auto glass stores (I go to speedy auto glass).
Remote signals go through glass or mesh doors.
The structure should be stable if you have enough vertical supports, use 3/4" wood, and have lateral support with the back panel.
I dont know of any specific web site with plans, but I havent looked. You might look at the pictures on this site and email the builder to see if they have plans.

This is a great thread with a lot of useful information. I'm thinking about getting a 60XBR2 and the oak looking stand Patsan made at the top of this page is the style I would be looking at building. I would probably go black but that same oak finish on Patsan's would match some book shelves I have.

Anyway I'm going to look into this. I've looked at stands almost all day and didn't find anything that really fit the width I need or have room for my center speaker.

By the way very nice job on all your stands guys and thanks for posting your pictures.

Jim

Thanks for the reply. Here are a couple of stands I'd like to pattern mine after:

http://www.dynamichomedecor.com/Mizzico-LRC-p-Television-Stands.html
http://www.dynamichomedecor.com/BDI-Avion-8529-p-Television-Stands.html

Both of these run around $2k with the doors and casters and don't seem to hard to replicate. The recessed doors might be a challenge, though. The integrated grille covering the center speaker compartment is a nice touch.

But they also have these stands in the $300-$400 range, which would work fine:

http://www.dynamichomedecor.com/Tech-Craft-CR48W-p-Television-Stands.html
http://www.dynamichomedecor.com/Tech-Craft-PTV58B-p-Television-Stands.html
http://www.dynamichomedecor.com/Tech-Craft-HK60B-p-Television-Stands.html

I'll think it over and decide if it's worth it to build a really nice one, or just buy one of the cheaper units. Being a novice woodworker, it would probably take me quite a while to build one, but it would be fun.

I'm building one (and it is fun). I'm motivating myself by not buying the tv until the stand is complete.

I am in the process of now building a custom entertainment center. I have the Mitz 57831 which is 51.5" wide. I have a total of 77" to work with. I am also thinking I will go with 3/4" material for the frame and shelves. I am not planning to put a back on it. It will sit against an existing wall and I will probably anchor to it somehow. Also the TV depth is just under 18". I was thinking of making the unit 24" deep.

I have skimmed this whole thread but don't have time right now to actually read it, so sorry if some of these questions have already been asked/discussed.

Is 3/4" too thick? Would 1/2" be sufficient?

How wide should my spaces be for components, IE: tivo, rec., vcr etc? All shelves for components will be adjustable, so I am not really concerned with component height. I know I can measure what I have today, but I want to plan for any future components.

Is 24" deep sufficient?

Does anyone have any good ideas or sources on a type of bracket/swivel that will allow me to have the TV sitting on a platform that you can pull out and turn slightly left or right? I will probably only need 15-30 deg travel left to right. The platform then will only need to come out far enough for clearance to turn. I have seen this in hotels before, but never one you could turn. The TV weighs about 90 lbs.


Thanks for any ideas/thoughts.

Well, I finally finished my cabinet.

In my projects around the house, I've always been more concerned with function than form so this was a nice change.

Instead of jumping straight in, I built a matching bookshelf first to make sure that I had the ability and tools to do something like this. I spent about 2-3 months building the bookshelf and another 2-3 building the entertainment center. My father-in-law did the staining & varnishing for me.

I'll share some lessones & techniques learned if everyone would like.. For now, here are the pictures with my Sony 50A10 and other A/V hardware..

Here is my first draft, well first one I want to share :). Of course depending on what kind of anwsers I get from my above post, things will probably change.

The PDF has layers, so you can turn things on and off, I think basic reader can anyway.

The glass is frosted. One member on here created doors that opened and then recessed into the sides. I really like that idea and may do that too. I am not sure if I should make it that tall though. My other thought is to go about as high as the fireplace. Right now the upper right section would just be left open for decoration type stuff. It would be too high to be accessing all the time.

Anyway, work in progress. Never really built any furniture type stuff before, so this will definitely be interesting if I end up doing it myself.

Here is my humble interpretation of the Ironhorse TV stand. This was my first major woodworking project and I'm really happy with the results. It is made out of 3/4 russian birch plywood except for the top that is made out of laminated solid birch. It's joined using pocket screws (the Kreg jig really does a great job btw). The plywood edges were only sanded smooth as I liked the look of the multiple layers of wood. The door and drawer vertical edges were rounded using a router.

The feet are custom CNC machined stainless steel (it's always useful to have a step brother that owns a machine shop :D ).

For the finish, I've used two coats of mahogany stain and 5 coats of danish oil. The last coats where applied using a steel wool to make it very smooth.

Now that it is complete, I can start shopping for a brand new TV to replace my 18 years old 20" Toshiba. :rolleyes:

Thanks to everyone that have contributed to this thread! This really is a great source of information and ideas.

Martin

Here a stand I recently built. It's pretty basic, but fits well in my familyroom. I'm posting links to pictures.

Plans (http://www.stevenferris.com/steve/TVCAB1.JPG)

Progress (http://www.stevenferris.com/steve/TVCAB2.JPG)

More Progress (http://www.stevenferris.com/steve/TVCAB3.JPG)

Old TV (http://www.stevenferris.com/steve/familyroom.jpg)

Getting There (http://www.stevenferris.com/steve/CAB4.JPG)

Almost Done (http://www.stevenferris.com/steve/CAB5.JPG)

Testing with 37" TV (http://www.stevenferris.com/steve/TVCAB31.JPG)

Complete! (http://www.stevenferris.com/steve/TV40.JPG)

Whole Room (http://www.stevenferris.com/steve/FRTV.JPG)

BTW, I did a built in for my 37 in the basement. I don't have time to search out only the tv pics, but you can go here to see how it's built and the finished product.

BASEMENT (http://www.stevenferris.com/photos/basement/index001.html)

Anyone know how you power a computer case fan when the power supply unit isn't hooked up to a motherboard? When I just plug the fan into a spare power supply I have, it won't run. I know some of you have mentioned you added case fans to your units for ventilation, but how are you powering these things? Anyone? Thanks.

Anyone know how you power a computer case fan when the power supply unit isn't hooked up to a motherboard? When I just plug the fan into a spare power supply I have, it won't run. I know some of you have mentioned you added case fans to your units for ventilation, but how are you powering these things? Anyone? Thanks.


I've run them off wall warts. Just choose one that supplies the appropritate voltage.

I've run them off wall warts. Just choose one that supplies the appropritate voltage.

That's what I was looking for. Googling that with case fans now gets me the info I needed. Thanks!

P.S. I know this thread has kind of died and doesn't get the traffic it once did, but your basement turned out REALLY nice.

That's what I was looking for. Googling that with case fans now gets me the info I needed. Thanks!

P.S. I know this thread has kind of died and doesn't get the traffic it once did, but your basement turned out REALLY nice.

please excuse the ignorant question but what is a wall wart? is it an adaptor similar to a phone charger?

Wall plug in transformer. Most run at an output <12v. I've wired them directly to cooling fans with good success.

didnt think wall wart was the actual term for these transformers but believe it or not:

wall wart: n.
A small power-supply brick with integral male plug, designed to plug directly into a wall outlet; called a ‘wart’ because when installed on a power strip it tends to block up at least one more socket than it uses. These are frequently associated with modems and other small electronic devices which would become unacceptably bulky or hot if they had power supplies on board (there are other reasons as well having to do with the cost of UL certification).

heres my salamander clone i just finished. the first few picks are the build process. the next to the last one is finished and installed. the last one is one of the shelves i made for the rear surrounds.

wow a limit of 3 uploads :rolleyes:
here's some more

matching surround shelf

Nice. Cool truck too.

How did you finish the doors? Is that stain or paint, and what color?

How did you finish the doors? Is that stain or paint, and what color?

the wood for the doors, sides, back, and shelves are oak stained black with ebony aniline dye,i think i got it at woodworkers supply, (to match the black oak on my speakers)and 3 coats of polyurethane. it doesn't show in the picture but you can see the oak grain. it was a really hard decision to cover that beautiful wood with black but I'm glad i did it. the top is natural oak with 8 coats of poly. the inset in the doors is punched aluminum purchased at Lowe's. the t-slot aluminum extrusions came from a local distributor. the hardware was from salamander.

the wood for the doors, sides, back, and shelves are oak stained black with ebony aniline dye,i think i got it at woodworkers supply, (to match the black oak on my speakers)and 3 coats of polyurethane. it doesn't show in the picture but you can see the oak grain. it was a really hard decision to cover that beautiful wood with black but I'm glad i did it. the top is natural oak with 8 coats of poly. the inset in the doors is punched aluminum purchased at Lowe's. the t-slot aluminum extrusions came from a local distributor. the hardware was from salamander.

Congrats...it's quite impressive. I've also been debating the color issue, but with maple - do I use black dye to match the tv and my speakers, or do I go lighter to show off the grain. I like how you went with a different color on the top; I'll consider doing that. I also went with perforated metal doors. It's still under construction, but I will post pictures when it's done.

Congrats...it's quite impressive. I've also been debating the color issue, but with maple - do I use black dye to match the tv and my speakers, or do I go lighter to show off the grain. I like how you went with a different color on the top; I'll consider doing that. I also went with perforated metal doors. It's still under construction, but I will post pictures when it's done.

one thing to consider. the wood part of my doors covers the remote sensor on one of my components. i have to open the door to operate it via remote. an acceptable tradeoff for me.

This cabinet only cost me $350 in materials to make and you would have to beat it with a sledgehammer to get it apart. I have little skill. All you need is the right tools and some time.

Here's a stand I built for my now defunct XBR1, gotta build a new one when the XBR2 arrives!

Well just like you guys I couldn't find a stand to suite my needs 5yrs ago. This is the stand that I designed. Wish I had the skills to build it, however Trunker Industries did a great job.

Wow, great thread! I wrote up some plans for another build it yourself stand for the Sony XBR2 60" projection TV.

http://home.earthlink.net/~kingjahrome/TV%20Stand.htm


http://home.earthlink.net/~kingjahrome/TV%20Stand_files/image003.jpg

Hello Ironhorse,

Exactly!! You have exactly what I have been looking for. Can you help me with my design? I am looking for something a little higher Actually about 36" high 54" wide or so. My center speaker is 20+" long and 7" tall top shelf would allow for this speaker. Space on each side of that would be for a tray that slides out to set CD's & DVD's. Basicly that shelf would sit on top of your design. So on shelf higher than yours to accomidate my center speaker and your design below with all three being adjustable shelvse with glase doors on each side like yours.

Please help.

Hello Ironhorse,

Exactly!! You have exactly what I have been looking for. Can you help me with my design? I am looking for something a little higher Actually about 36" high 54" wide or so. My center speaker is 20+" long and 7" tall top shelf would allow for this speaker. Space on each side of that would be for a tray that slides out to set CD's & DVD's. Basicly that shelf would sit on top of your design. So one shelf higher than yours, to accomidate my center speaker and your design below with all three being adjustable shelvse with glase doors on each side, exactly like yours!

Please help.

Wow, great thread! I wrote up some plans for another build it yourself stand for the Sony XBR2 60" projection TV.






What a great looking stand and a great webpage you've made. You make it look so easy. I will begin a project on my own not to far off in the future and this thread is definitly going to help.

AAMH

Well I have now read all 27 pages of this thread and have been inspired. It is snowing like hell here this weekend and first I have to create a proper work area in the basement. My wife is pleased that I will be cleaning the basement, but is not thrilled that it is to start another project. I will post progress as I can.

great that you have taken the initiative. you will be proud of your acomplishment when finished.

BTW. welcome to the forums!

I finally got started on a stand. I will be a variation of kingjahromes' design. I am making it a little shorter and lower. I went to 64 1/2" long and 18 1/2" tall. I plan to add 1 3/4" casters hidden by a skirt on the bottom. My height should end up equal to his 21".
The openings are to be 18"X 24"X 18". This should accept a 23" center channel easily. I am planning on puting a drawer under the center and wood doors on the 18' sides. I am using Mohagony veneered plywood 3/4" thick for the entire unit.
I am still unsure wether I will go to glass doors or a wood framed glass door. I think that the latter would look nicer.
Since I am trying to match to some Lexington pieces that we have in the same room, I think that I will be trying to mix some Minwax stains to come close to my furniture.
Any advice will be happily accepted.
As I tried to clamp and square my work today for drilling for the 2"# 8 screws, I got a little ticked off over the way my clamps would go off square. If I tightened them and everything checked out correctly, I could see the wood shift as soon as lifted my hands. I picked up some heavier duty clamps from HD tonight. Hopefully that shouId take care of that problem.
Regards,
Fred

That's awesome to hear you're building one. Hope to see a pic of it sometime!

kingjahrome,
I have all the pieces cut, stained and I am in the process of applying a water based poly that was recommended to me at Constantines. I ran out of it yesterday in the late afternoon. :mad:
I was working on the drawer just a few minutes ago, and still have to make the doors.
I will post pictures as soon as I get my camera from my daughter. How do you post pictures here? I have never done it.
One thing that I have learned on this project is that you can never have too many clamps!

Thanks for the encouraging words.

Fred

Here are some pictures of the pieces. The are made from 3/4" Honduran mahogany veneered plywood with edge banding. I am in the finishing stage and have about 3 coats of water based poly on it. I am starting to wet sand and using finer and finer sandpaper.
The drawer is 1/2" plywood that will have a front piece of the mahogany veneered plywood that will be edge banded.
I hope to start assembly in the next couple of days. I want to put a few more coats of poly on the exterior surface. I still need to cut the holes in the back for access for power and wires.
I will put some more photos up.

More photos. I found out that I was limited to 3 per message.
The skirt is 1.5" High and will hide 1.75" casters. Hopefully that clearance will allow the stand to move on the carpet. If it doesn't I can always put a shim under the casters to increase the clearance. ;)
The drawer has shellac and polyurethane to seal it. I am not happy with the way it looks at this point.

man that mahogany is some beautiful wood ain't it. I've always loved the natural look of it. many times high end furniture manufacturers will stain it real dark, i think that ruins it.

your helper looks very content to wait until his help is requested.

Could someone point me towards a few finishing references? I'm planning on building a piano gloss black stand for a Pioneer and don't know how to achieve the gloss black. All my furniture built to date has an oil finish.

Thx Paul

I got a lot of inspiration from this thread and built my own A/V stand. Thanks a lot Ironhorse. I started a thread over here:
A/V cabinet build (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=832963)

Thanks for all the input and advice.

Nornet,
I bought my paint from a local Aboffs. They were very helpful. I went with flat black - Benjamin Moore oil base low lustre. I am sure they have a gloss black. My finish seems very durable. I sprayed on 3 coats with a Ben Moore acrilyc primer.

I got a lot of inspiration from this thread and built my own A/V stand. Thanks a lot Ironhorse. I started a thread over here:
A/V cabinet build (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=832963)

Thanks for all the input and advice.

Nornet,
I bought my paint from a local Aboffs. They were very helpful. I went with flat black - Benjamin Moore oil base low lustre. I am sure they have a gloss black. My finish seems very durable. I sprayed on 3 coats with a Ben Moore acrilyc primer.


very nice job.. i like it a lot..great ideas.. i never thought about paint when i did the black on mine. i used a black water soluable dye. wish i had used paint. would have been easier and quicker.

Damn this thread is so long, and I'm sure it's full of helpful information.

But I am at square 1. Where on earth do you find these really nice woods? All I know of is the local lumber/home stores which only have either MDF or 2x4's for house construction. Where does one find big sheets of birch, maple, cherry, oak, etc ???

homedept and lowes carries oak and birch plywood in 2 thicknesses.

ive never seen cherry or mahogany plywood. but if you want an exotic species you can buy veneer online and do it yourself.

heres my salamander clone i just finished. the first few picks are the build process. the next to the last one is finished and installed. the last one is one of the shelves i made for the rear surrounds.

Strutter-
Beautiful job on your setup. I love the Salamander stuff, but certainly not the price. I was eyeballing the stuff online and figured I could do something similar myself. You said the a local shop had the aluminum "t-slot"? Is this something a distributor would normally have or did you have to order it?

i called T slot inc. to place an order and they conected me to a distributor who just happend to be about 30miles from my place. they had the extrusions in house the first time and had to order them the next. i recieved them just as quickly both times. they said if they have to order something they usualy have it next day. i have actually made several purchases from them sence building the stand. i chose the type of tslot i wanted from the tslot website. wrote down the part number. then called the distributor who cut the aluminum extrusion to the length i required. they would have also taped the ends for me but i didnt know the thread size of the salamander bolts at the time i orderd the tslots.
there is an ebay shop that sells used and odd pieces. search aluminum extrusion or tslot. i believe they will also cut and tap them for you. if i wanted to wait for an auction to end i probably would have ordered from them.

Excellent, thank you for the info.

Excellent, thank you for the info.


one more thing to consider. on the pics of mine you see the area in the middle without doors. i wish i had put a sliding drawer on the bottom below the center speaker. i plan on adding it someday when i have time to figure out how to do it without moving the set and taking the top off. it would be great for all my remotes that i dont use now that i got a harmony, extra cables and such.

Strutter,
Thanks for the kind words.
You should not have too much of a problem making and installing a drawer. You will have to measure the hole and make the drawer one inch smaller then the opening. That gives room for the sliding mechanism. Buy the slides first to make sure about that clearance. You can cheat a little and go to Salamanders site to see how they attach the drawer.
http://www.salamanderdesigns.com/syn/downloads/instr_samd_v2.pdf
To use their system you would have to take the top off. :(
Perhaps you could use a slide that goes under the drawer.
Such as-
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17281
as an example.
I assembled mine and moved it into the house. I will post pictures soon. I still have to finish the drawer and doors. I think that instead of glass I will put a black perforated insert in the door for looks and air circulation.
By the way, I back tracked your stand and admired it greatly. The truck looks great too. :)

Strutter,
Thanks for the kind words.
You should not have too much of a problem making and installing a drawer. You will have to measure the hole and make the drawer one inch smaller then the opening. That gives room for the sliding mechanism. Buy the slides first to make sure about that clearance. You can cheat a little and go to Salamanders site to see how they attach the drawer.
http://www.salamanderdesigns.com/syn/downloads/instr_samd_v2.pdf
To use their system you would have to take the top off. :(
Perhaps you could use a slide that goes under the drawer.
Such as-
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17281
as an example.
I assembled mine and moved it into the house. I will post pictures soon. I still have to finish the drawer and doors. I think that instead of glass I will put a black perforated insert in the door for looks and air circulation.
By the way, I back tracked your stand and admired it greatly. The truck looks great too. :)

weather or not to use a salamander type slide or search for something else has been the biggest hold up in adding a drawer. i really don't want to move the tv and remove the top. i will check out that under drawer slide, sounds like the trick i need.
glad you like my stand. cant wait to see the pics of yours.
and that truck is my other never ending project. a '57 Chevy 3100. 350 built to the hilt, corvette possi trac independent rear suspension, camero coil over front suspension.

Looks good!

:D bump :D

Looks like this thread has kind of died.
This is a basic Box I built to hold a new 61" Samsung I just got.
The flash makes it look worse than it is but it was my first attempt at something other than rough carpentry so I didnt want to try something too fancy.
The box covers an unused fireplace and I wanted to be able to get off my knees to change DVDs.
I'm not sure the photo will show up as I have never tried posting one before.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=84235&stc=1

well if anyone wants to buy a cheap stand for the mistubishi wd-65831 pm me I have the mb-65gb stand brand new in the box that I no longer need (I bought a plasma instead) in the nyc area

wow, so many people PM'ing me lately with questions regarding my salamander clone i thought i'd revive this thread by giving it a BUMP.
a lot of the questions are the same.
i dont mind any questions, actually it makes me feel good that maybe i have inspired these individuals to take the leap into a DIY project like this. however, a lot of the questions can be answerd by starting at the link below and reading forward.(it's just 2 pages).
and if you still have questions please do PM me or post it here, i will see it.

and please ya'll post some pics, i'd love to see your projects

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9335654&&#post9335654

Gentlemen,

I've been reading and keeping track of this thread since it's inception. I've finally decided to take the plunge and try and build my own stand/equipment rack. Won't be getting the TV for a couple of months, so I'm not in any hurry, but I've drawn up some plans.

I do have a question, for anyone that would care to chime in. My stand will be very similar to the one built by one of the members here.

His web page with details is HERE (http://home.earthlink.net/~kingjahrome/TV%20Stand.htm)

(my apologies, I bookmarked it and don't remember who's it is).

Here's a pic of the rack:

http://home.earthlink.net/~kingjahrome/TV%20Stand_files/image008.jpg

Now, on to my question:

That rack (and most others here) have a back to prevent racking. I will not be going with a back, but will have it open instead.

The 2 middle verticals will be 2" shorter (depth) than the end verticals. Spanning the lenght of the back on the top and bottom will be 2X4's. The 2X4's will be afixed to each of the end verticals (spanning them) and then they'll also be attached to the middle verticals. I also plan on having 2 other 2X4's that attach the 2 center verticals to each other (the width of the middle cavity is 20.5" and the 2X4's will be 20.5" as well - one on top, one on bottom).

Will this provide enough support to prevent racking?

I may end up going with the new 70" Sony XBR5 and the spec sheet says that it weighs 235 lbs.

Thanks.

...Will this provide enough support to prevent racking?

I may end up going with the new 70" Sony XBR5 and the spec sheet says that it weighs 235 lbs.I don't think the 2x4 are necessary... besides, fine furniture does not look good using construction lumber. ;)

I used to have a 135 gallon fish tank (the weight of ~4 Sonys) on a store-bought stand. This stand was "put together" using ply and pocket hole screws and was supporting the weight of the fish tank. No need to overbuild it.

There were some nice TV stand plans in the recent Woodsmith magazine (http://www.woodsmith.com/issues/169/) if anyone is interested.

I'm not worried about the looks from the back since it's going in a niche and only the front of the rack will really be visible anyway. Additionally, the interior and shelving will be black (including the 2X4's) so they'll never be noticeable.

I'm not as concerned about weight (although I am a little), as much as I'm concerned about racking. Without a back, it needs something to keep it from swaying, doesn't it?

...Without a back, it needs something to keep it from swaying, doesn't it?It's required to keep the cabinet square. Have you considered screwing in a back with a large cutouts for each compartment?

I'm not as concerned about weight (although I am a little), as much as I'm concerned about racking. Without a back, it needs something to keep it from swaying, doesn't it?
I'm having a HT cabinet built and just met with my builder to go over the plans. We discussed this very issue for a relatively similar carcase structure. What he's going to do is use dado joints for the interior walls. He thinks this will keep it square and keep it from racking. (Also, I'm rackmounting all my gear, so that in and of itself will help keep everything stitched together.)

As a side note, we're using 1.5" thick MDF for the interior walls and the bottom, which will help disperse the load the unit's meant to hold - around 420 lbs.

For your design, what you could do, is route 3/4" wide 1/4" deep slots for the interior walls starting at the back of the structure and ending about 1" from the front, so the walls will still be recessed like they are in your design. Do this in both the top and bottom boards. Then, slide the walls in and glue and screw them in place. Should help.

No doubt, a back will also help keep it square, but if you don't need to overbuild, then don't. Your back will thank you when you have to move it. ;)

Well, the problem is that I don't have a router (or much else, actually) so I can't do dado's. I haven't built much, but the things I have built, I do tend to over-build, especially when it can't be seen. It's my "better safe then sorry" approach, I guess.

I also thought ply was stronger than MDF (although I guess since the MDF is 1.5", it'd have to be stronger than 3/4" ply). Since I'm painting most of this unit black (actually all of it, but the top and bottom will have hardwood flooring - to match our floors - afixed to it), I can probably use any wood, but I want to stick with 3/4". Would MDF be better? Does the type of ply matter?

Well, the problem is that I don't have a router (or much else, actually) so I can't do dado's.
If you have a table saw (I assume you do since you're building a cabinet), you can buy a dado blade. One thing to keep in mind, you won't be able to make stopped dado like you would with a router. For the price of a good dado blade, you can pick up a used router on craigslist.
I also thought ply was stronger than MDF (although I guess since the MDF is 1.5", it'd have to be stronger than 3/4" ply). Since I'm painting most of this unit black (actually all of it, but the top and bottom will have hardwood flooring - to match our floors - afixed to it), I can probably use any wood, but I want to stick with 3/4". Would MDF be better? Does the type of ply matter?I have never heard of 1.5" MDF unless two 3/4"-ers were glued together. Keep in mind that MDF is much heavier than plywood. Type of ply matters if you want the project to look nice. More expensive ply (like Baltic Birch or cabinet grade) is more stable and has less voids than the cheaper ply.

Nope, don't have a table saw either. HD will be making all my cuts for me out of the ply. I know some say HD has an accuracy problem, but I've laid out my cuts on the plywood so that it shouldn't matter if they're off by as much as 1/4" (i.e. the 4 verticals that need to be the same height will all be done with one cut, so if they're all 15 3/4" inches that's OK, but they'll all be the same.).

I plan on building this using only a miter saw, cordless drill, jig saw, palm sander, glue, clamps, screws and finishing nails. I've finished my plan and step by step instructions and it looks like I should be fine.

I hadn't heard of 1.5" MDF either, but think I'll probably stick with Birch ply, even though none of it will really be visible (only the interior verticals and they'll be black).

HD will be making all my cuts for me out of the ply. :eek: At least do yourself a favor... Prior to them making the cuts, measure yourself where you want the cuts made and run along the cut line painter's blue masking tape on both sides; it will minimize splintering. HD does not use the right blade and I bet it's dull, too.

I know some say HD has an accuracy problem, but I've laid out my cuts on the plywood so that it shouldn't matter if they're off by as much as 1/4" (i.e. the 4 verticals that need to be the same height will all be done with one cut, so if they're all 15 3/4" inches that's OK, but they'll all be the same.)The most important thing is that the cut pieces be square - equal diagonals. Otherwise your cabinet will be out of square and you'll have a mess on your hands.

Here's another idea... buy or try to borrow from someone a circular saw and pick up a $15 Freud Diablo blade from HD (I use this blade to tear down sheet stock and it makes excellent cuts). Make yourself an edge guide and off you go.

http://members.aol.com/woodmiser1/sawbd.htm
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip010810sn.html

I also thought ply was stronger than MDF (although I guess since the MDF is 1.5", it'd have to be stronger than 3/4" ply). Since I'm painting most of this unit black (actually all of it, but the top and bottom will have hardwood flooring - to match our floors - afixed to it), I can probably use any wood, but I want to stick with 3/4". Would MDF be better? Does the type of ply matter?

I think the cores of MDF are not as strong as plywood or hardwood (obviously), but if you go with a standard density MDF (as opposed to a low density) it is supposed to be plenty strong. And it has other benefits - no wood movement in shifting climates, no voids, uniform sizes, and it's cheap. The main reason why I chose to go with MDF is because my builder was going to charge me an arm and a leg to build it out of hardwood. I also wanted a very dark brown, espresso finish on it - essentially paint - and to put that on top of hardwood, where you'd never see the grain, seemed like a waste.

The 1.5" is definitely an odd thickness, but I'm pretty sure it's a custom order piece. The guy who is building my unit runs a large shop and orders his MDF direct from the manufacturer where he can get odd thicknesses. And yeah, the main reason for using that as opposed to 3/4" or 1" is load capacity.

Kudos on undertaking the project yourself. I would have totally tried to build my unit myself, but since I live in a small new york apartment and only have a cordless drill and a few screwdrivers to my name it wasn't really an option. Some day I'll have my own tools! :)

:eek: At least do yourself a favor... Prior to them making the cuts, measure yourself where you want the cuts made and run along the cut line painter's blue masking tape on both sides; it will minimize splintering. HD does not use the right blade and I bet it's dull, too.


i let HD make my rough cuts just so it was easier for me to handle. they messed up 2 4x8 sheets of oak ply because the user couldnt keep the board flat causing the cut to be crooked and bind up the blade. they use a course blade that splinters like crazy. i wouldnt let them do a finish size cut if i were you.

i did purchase a piece of the messed up ply at a deep discount though.

people still watching this thread?

yep. at least one.

I am. Just started building mine...

-John

I am. I'm not purchasing my TV for another couple of months (probably) so I haven't started my stand yet, but when I do I'll put in some photos.

Cool, cuz this thread rocks.

I am just planning my stand now. I have a Samsung HLR-6167, the floating screen model. so my screen is like 57" wide but the base that actually touches the stand is like 30" or so. Do you need to build a stand as wide as your screen or can you bring it in some? I know one obvious reason to build it the full width is to avoid someone being able to run into the TV and not the stand, which could cause the TV to swivel and possibly fall off. :| But where I have my tv its in a corner so it the screen pretty much butts up against the wall. Trying to decide if I want to tackle making a corner stand or a smaller say 4' wide Rectangle stand that obviously wouldn't go out the full screen width.

It's basically a matter of preference Tim.

I like a stand that's a little larger (width) than the TV. I think it looks better visually. However, corner placement might be different. Is there a reason you wouldn't want the stand AND the TV to each extend to the side walls?

No reason in particular other than maybe making building it easier. I'm completely new to wood working.

Cool, cuz this thread rocks.

I Do you need to build a stand as wide as your screen or can you bring it in some? I know one obvious reason to build it the full width is to avoid someone being able to run into the TV and not the stand, which could cause the TV to swivel and possibly fall off. :| But where I have my tv its in a corner so it the screen pretty much butts up against the wall. Trying to decide if I want to tackle making a corner stand or a smaller say 4' wide Rectangle stand that obviously wouldn't go out the full screen width.

i think a stand the same width as the tv (or a little larger) looks better.
plus with a wide stand you have more room to put components without cramming them in causing heat problems.
if you plan on always and forever having your tv in a corner i'd make one triangle shaped to fit the corner. giving it a custom built in appearance if done right. you wouldn't really have to worry about the 2 sides you could leave them open butted up close to the walls and just make a nice front and top.
just my opinion though.

hi am new to the forums i just built my stand need to put banding on and paint total cost 87.00 have no woodworking tools so had home depo cut all my pieces did a pretty good job especialy since i will be painting it.It is very sturdy no problems with racking as i used 1/8 inch luan for the back it is all screwed together with 2 inch wood screws and glued if i was staining it i would of used nails as it would of used less wood filler to fill the nail holes also am going to put furniture glides on bottom so it will slide easy. I think it turned out really good for being built in my diningroom.

Looks very nice! thats one tall stand, what height is that?

good work considering you have no woodworking tools and did it in your dining room. i am extremely surprised homedepo was capable of making clean straight cuts.:eek:

Man the homedepot by me i'm suprised they know how to operate the saw(though there are some very good people there, some are just clueless). How hard is it to use a guide with a circular saw to make the necessary cuts? I think I'll have to do that since I don't have a table saw. Or maybe I could see how well the lowes employees look.

Looks very nice! thats one tall stand, what height is that?

Looks nice, but that is pretty tall. What size TV?

Thanks for all the comments its 25 1/2 inches high i'm 6' 3' so its good for me the tv is a 55inch sony most people would probably make it shorter i might drop the height if my woman complains but she seems to like the height so far its a work in progress thats why i haven't painted it yet jim

If your happy with it then its all good! Its all variant on where your eye level is and personal taste. I think the picture also makes it look higher.

What kind of wood did u use?

great thread, i hope to start a project over the thanksgiving holiday (& after reading the whole thread!)

hi am new to the forums i just built my stand need to put banding on and paint total cost 87.00 have no woodworking tools so had home depo cut all my pieces did a pretty good job especialy since i will be painting it.It is very sturdy no problems with racking as i used 1/8 inch luan for the back it is all screwed together with 2 inch wood screws and glued if i was staining it i would of used nails as it would of used less wood filler to fill the nail holes also am going to put furniture glides on bottom so it will slide easy. I think it turned out really good for being built in my diningroom.Very nice. A suggestion if I may... you should glue solid wood edging not only to cover the exposed plys, but also to prevent sagging. Maybe it's the picture, but I already can see the plywood starting to sag.

ironhorse thanks for posting those pictures i made mine as close to yours as i could i put 8 wheels on also as it will hold a 60 in. plasma pannys new pz700 and with every thing else my total weight is 230 pounds...thanks again real sweet..louis

Amazing how this was a popular thread a couple of years ago and now it has almost died.

i agree. it is amazing. but not uncommon. I've seen it lots of times around here. occasionally something happens to breathe more life back into the dead threads. it seems that when the original posters no longer are active in a thread it begins to decline. then it slips off the first page and new arrivals cant easily see it. i know that in my own case. i was searching the forum for ideas on buying a stand. i couldn't find what i wanted. i looked at salamanders and thought "i could build one of those". all of a sudden this thread popped back onto the first page. didn't even know such a thread existed. i began reading it. and it convinced me that BYO was the way to go.
i keep it as a subscribed thread because i am truly interested in seeing what others are building. however, lately I've seen posts from people who say they're going to build something but they never come back to update on their progress. i even get PM's from people who never post here.

I still monitor this thread and am still planning on building my stand. However, I've pushed off the purchase of a new HDTV until March (maybe a bit sooner) and am hoping to build the stand during my vacation in December.

I apologize if this is in the wrong place but I really don't think it warrants its own thread.

I need to make room in my existing TV stand for my new Polk CSR center channel. As I see it I have two options:

Make a hanging shelf above the TV.
Rebuild the "stand" portion making it slightly taller with room for the CSR below the TV.


My wife really likes the stand "as it is" so all outward appearances must remain the same.

I have some drawings of what I am planning if I "rebuild" that I can post in the morning.

What I have to work with:

^^
it would probably be easier to put a shelf above the TV. you could buy a couple of brackets that are basically upsidedown 'L' shaped and screw them in. provided the back is solid enough to hold. however, rebuilding the stand portion would probably look the best.

The shelf above the TV would be easy and that was the way I was originally going. Like anytime somebody tries to cram 10# of $h!t in a 5# bag it doesn't end up looking right. The center channel speaker is 7" high, the clear space above the TV is 8.5" except in the front where the trim and latch hang down it is only 5" so when all is said and done even the best placement would leave some of the speaker obstructed. Then again it is quick and easy :)

A quick drawing of what I am thinking of doing if I rebuild:

What do you guys think?

looks good to me. glad to see you incorporated the uprights on either side of the center channel space to support the TV. i cant really see if there are any dimensions in your drawing. just make sure you factor the thickness of the wood in your measurements and all should be OK.

The TV isn't very heavy but I figured the uprights were a good idea even though it makes for an indirect load path. As far as thickness I am planning on something in the 5/8"~3/4" range. I am going to see what Home Depot has at lunchtime. I think 3/4 might look too heavy. The construction is easy, I have built many more complicated things than this.

My two reservations:

I am hoping I can match the finish and I have never use the edge "tape" before.

I've never had much luck matching an existing Finish myself. I've come pretty close by mixing various stains and testing with scrap but never exact. that cabinet looks fairly new though so you may be able to find a pretty darn close match ready made. take a piece of the scrap from the cabinet with you.

edge banding is really easy to do. i used a clothes iron wrapped in aluminum foil (to keep glue from ruining the iron). it helps to have another hand while doing it. my wife held the boards (but mine were 6' long). follow the directions on the edging package. make sure you use a sharp razer when trimming. if you have doubts, try it on a scrap board first.

Might be easier (and better looking, if you can't match the stain) to just paint all the interior shelving black.

I posted some of these in the stand thread, but they should have been posted here. I used autocad inventor to design it. It's made of maple plywood with solid trim. Perforated stainless door inserts. The flash from the camera hides the backlight, but I highly recommend getting one. If anyone has any question, let me know. It took way too long to build.

http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa16/mondo3_photo/tv032.jpg

http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa16/mondo3_photo/tv016.jpg

http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa16/mondo3_photo/EntertainmentUnit003.jpg

http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa16/mondo3_photo/EntertainmentUnit004.jpg

http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa16/mondo3_photo/EntertainmentUnit005.jpg

http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa16/mondo3_photo/tv036.jpg

http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa16/mondo3_photo/tv045.jpg

http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa16/mondo3_photo/tv038.jpg

Might be easier (and better looking, if you can't match the stain) to just paint all the interior shelving black.

i agree. i think his cabinet would look nice with the interior black or at least the stand part black.
on mine everything is black except the top. i left it natural oak. sometimes i wish i had done all the exterior natural and just did the inside black. then other times i think it would have looked nicer if i had done the top in black also. but as it is now it matches nicely with the TV, speakers and surround shelves. which is what i was aiming for.

I posted some of these in the stand thread, but they should have been posted here. I used autocad inventor to design it. It's made of maple plywood with solid trim. Perforated stainless door inserts. The flash from the camera hides the backlight, but I highly recommend getting one. If anyone has any question, let me know. It took way too long to build.
]

nice. i like the rounded corners and the wire management. is that rosewood stain? or just my monitor? you certainly have lots of storage room. is that a 60 or 70 xbr2?

i agree. i think his cabinet would look nice with the interior black or at least the stand part black.

Haha, I'll let you guys run that one by my wife. ;)

I posted some of these in the stand thread, but they should have been posted here. I used autocad inventor to design it. It's made of maple plywood with solid trim. Perforated stainless door inserts. The flash from the camera hides the backlight, but I highly recommend getting one. If anyone has any question, let me know. It took way too long to build.


Very nice!

How did you do your rounded corners?

good eye - rosewood is correct. It's a 60" xbr2. I designed it to fit all of my current equipment. Most of the space is filled (except for the area where my Yamaha Reciever sits - I've allocated that entire section for whatever eventually replaces it). I cheated on the corners; I bought curved mdf and coated with veneer (as I don't have the equipment to bend wood).

I built most of my stand modification on Saturday and hit it with the first coat of stain last night. Everything turned out great except the edge tape doesn't seem to absorb much stain. I will hit it again tonight and post some pics.

the edge tape doesn't seem to absorb much stain. .

did you lightly sand it before applying the stain? what type of wood is the edge banding? oak sometimes has problems with water based stains I've found.

The edge tape is birch and the stain I am using is oil based. It might darken up when I apply the poly tonight but it is noticably lighter than the rest of the piece. I have a bunch of the tape left over I might experiment with staining it first and if that turns out well applying it to the edges.

I still owe you guys pics.

Front 3/4:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=94027&stc=1&d=1194531736

Rear 3/4:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=94026&stc=1&d=1194531736

Edge tape detail:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=94028&stc=1&d=1194531736

The color difference between the main sections and the taped edge isn't as noticable in the pictures. Maybe I am being too picky?

I have the two lower shelves cut but not edged or stained yet. I am going to try and reuse the top shelf from the existing unit that the TV sits on. I didn't plug any screw holes because with the pocket doors none are visible when it is in place.

The stain is a custom blend from Sherwin Williams to match the existing piece.

looks good to me. you could take a little of the stain back to SW and see if they can make it a little darker and apply it to the edge before the poly if youre not happy with the way it is.
i see you have another project on your hands in the background.
here's my other project in the background.

Is that a '55-'57 Chevy? Looks like a nice truck! The car is a fuel injected '68 Mustang. The 302 engine, 5-spd trans, computer, rear axle and seats are from a wrecked '95 GT. The front discs are Wilwood 4-piston units. I just need to paint the damn thing and I am done with it ;)

I might see if they can darken a small portion of the stain. I would hate to get a whole quart to do just the edging.

i thought that was a mustang, wasnt sure of year though.
yep. mines a 57 chevy 3100. 350ci, 4wheel independant suspension with 4 wheel discs by way of a corvette posi track rearend and mustang coilover front clip.. the truck is totally driveable but there are alot of things i want to do to make it more friendly. the one electric fan i put on is too small to cool when its hot out. it only covers about 1/4 of the radiator. so i want to put a more apropriate size one on but inorder to do that i need to change out the long nose water pump for a short one. and when i do that i'll have to replace the alt. bracket. so while i'm at it i want to replace the pullys also with a serpintene type. it looks real good in the pictures but actually that paint job is pretty old. it has some rust bubbles and scratches eventually i'll get to that.

Hey Friends..
I am highly impressed by your works in TV Stand...
I recently bought 42" LG LCD TV...I am trying to build tv stand ..
to be honest..I have no clue about wood work.
herewith i attached the image..which i really liked it..looks pretty simple..
left door open (sideway)- right door open(sideway) - middle rack top open (down) - middle rack bottom open (down)...everything i want it to be in glass.

my basic question..as too many wood experts are here..
1.HOW MUCH DOES IT COST TO BUILT WITH GOOD FINISH (not great finish) - i like black or espresso color.
2. I am very interested in doing these kind of work ..though i never worked before....can i buy all the wood from Home depot precut ( as mentioned in thread)..( solid wood or compressed wood)
3. how can i estimate TV weight to the new stand ..like 100 lbs capacity...

my basic question..as too many wood experts are here..
1.HOW MUCH DOES IT COST TO BUILT WITH GOOD FINISH (not great finish) - i like black or espresso color.
2. I am very interested in doing these kind of work ..though i never worked before....can i buy all the wood from Home depot precut ( as mentioned in thread)..( solid wood or compressed wood)
3. how can i estimate TV weight to the new stand ..like 100 lbs capacity...

i'm no wood expert and I'm having a bit of difficulty completely understanding exactly what you are asking but I'll try to answer to the best of my ability.

#1 if you have the necessary tools you could probably build that exact stand in your picture for around $300. if you don't have the tools or know where you can borrow them then you will need to add the cost of them. black dye can be purchased at woodworker.com or you could just paint it black. that espresso color is basically a real dark brown can be bought at Lowe's/home depot. my home depot doesn't carry black dye or stain.
#2 you will need to use plywood for everything except maybe the doors and the frame for the stand. its darn near impossible to find wide long solids that aren't warped or bowed. for that project I'd use Birch wood. as far as getting home depot to cut it for you....personally i wont let them do nothing more than rough cuts so its easier for me to handle. i do all finish size cuts myself. but you can try. you don't have to pay for the wood they mess up but I'm pretty sure after you pay it is yours so make sure its right before you leave.
#3 not sure i understand what you are asking but if you want to know how to make sure the stand will hold the TV. I'm no mathematician so I'd say just build it really sturdy.
most importantly make sure you have a plan. draw it out. include measurements. and measure twice cut once.

thanks for your reply..looks like you are the only person available to answer in this thread....sorry to bother you again....
When i was browsing Lowes page..i found the pdf file attached...
...TV stand project..which i really liked it...so what do you think...as a beginner..do you think this project is feasible for me???...i am planning to rent tools from home depot or get it from my friend...
buying finished wood is better or buy a wood and then doing the paint job (cheaper)

thanks for your reply..looks like you are the only person available to answer in this thread....sorry to bother you again....
When i was browsing Lowes page..i found the pdf file attached...
...TV stand project..which i really liked it...so what do you think...as a beginner..do you think this project is feasible for me???...i am planning to rent tools from home depot or get it from my friend...
buying finished wood is better or buy a wood and then doing the paint job (cheaper)

i cant open the pdf. after it downloads it says the document cant be found. if you provide a link to the lowes page where you found the PDF i'll look at it.

anyway,,,, yep this place is dead. occasionally someone pops in.

i've never seen pre finished wood before. perhaps you are talking about the "fake wood" MDF which is basically sawdust pressed together with glue and having a plastic laminate wood grain finish. if so . personally i'd use plywood and apply your own finish to it. i havent worked with MDF any at all. either way dont forget that you will need a matching edge banding.

pdf worked for me and it seems pretty straight forward.

I actually started my stand build today. My plan was to have HD do all the cuts for me. I was going to buy two 4X8 Oak Plywoods and had measured out all the cuts ahead of time. When I was in HD about 1 month ago, I watched them cut some wood and it looked great. When I went in yesterday, I had them test cut a piece for me and it ripped it to shreds. Big jagged cuts. I don't really have any way to cut them myself so I opted for MDF (which doesn't shred). The guy at HD actually did a great job cutting for me and was very precise and took his time.

I'm not too worried about it being MDF because most of it's going to be spray painted black and the top is going to have wood laminate on it (to match our floors), so there'll actually be very little of the wood showing.

I took a couple of pictures today and if I get a chance, I'll try and upload them.

OK, managed to upload a few pics. They're not the greatest, but will give an idea of the look I'm going for.

First, here's my sketch (you can see on the top where I've sketched in the wood laminate flooring that I plan to add. I'll probably also add it to the bottom of the unit (bottom shelf), but not 100% sure yet)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/spartanstew/P1010086.jpg
Here's how I calculated my cuts. I also wrote step by step directions on the back, but forgot to take a picture:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/spartanstew/P1010088.jpg

Here's a shot of the back of the cabinet. Obviously, the tops not on yet. I have the 2X4 spanning the back (bottom) and will have another one spanning the back (top). Probably not necessary, but I sometimes go overboard when building stuff. Wanted to make sure it'd be sturdy and since this is the back and won't be seen, I loaded up there. The upright panel in the middle section will provide a backing for the center section. It's currently not glued or screwed as I haven't yet made the cut-outs for wires. It's just there as a placeholder to keep things square.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/spartanstew/P1010085.jpg
Here's a shot of the front of the cabinet. The two 2X4's will not be there. I'm merely using them in place of additional clamps to hold things in place. Each of the 4 upright sections have already been drilled with the holes for the adjustable shelving. The rear 2X4 and the the outside vertical pieces have been glued and screwed. The 2 interior vertical pieces are glued, but they have not been screwed yet.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/spartanstew/P1010084.jpg
Here's 2 closer shots of the left and right front of the unit.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/spartanstew/P1010090.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/spartanstew/P1010091.jpg

pdf worked for me and it seems pretty straight forward.


i still get "there was an error opening this document. the file can not be found". i've had this happen before with pdf's posted here. never have the problem anywhere else. perhaps its a security software thing. i dunno.

I'm not too worried about it being MDF because most of it's going to be spray painted black and the top is going to have wood laminate on it (to match our floors), so there'll actually be very little of the wood showing.
.

interesting idea using wood laminate flooring for the top. cant wait to see it finished.
i reckon you had some left over and are now putting it to use huh?
the wife always gripes on me about keeping stuff like that. i still have 4 long strips of solid oak tongue and groove flooring left from our install 3 years ago. recently i used the old oak wood from the bed of my '57 to make shelves in the garage. i had that wood stored for 6 years.

interesting idea using wood laminate flooring for the top. cant wait to see it finished.
i reckon you had some left over and are now putting it to use huh?
the wife always gripes on me about keeping stuff like that. i still have 4 long strips of solid oak tongue and groove flooring left from our install 3 years ago. recently i used the old oak wood from the bed of my '57 to make shelves in the garage. i had that wood stored for 6 years.

Yep, I have 4 boxes of flooring that have been sitting in the garage for 3 years. They're right next to the big stack of stone pavers (about 200) that were left over from a landscaping project last year.

I am building my own stand, Its a monster, Will post pictures later. First I have to say I liked working with MDF. I thought it cut easy to cut, no voids or chipping. Glued, screwed, and dowels edges great. Only problem i had with it was its heavy, something like 96 lbs for a 4x8 sheet and the saw dust is really fine powder.

My question is what color to paint it. I'm thinking a flat or satin Black with maybe a clear satin polyurethane on top. Is there a best color to paint a stand?

I wouldn't go with flat unless it's a scrubbable flat because flat is a pain to keep smudge free. I'm painting mine black and never really considered any other color. If I were using wood, I might have stained it, but with MDF, black paint is fine.

A few more pics of my progress. I put the first coat of paint on the stand and laid out the wood flooring for the bottom of the stand. The black looks really weird in these pics, but looks much better in person. I still don't have the top of the stand on yet. Here's a shot looking at what will be the front:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/spartanstew/P1010073.jpg

Here's a closeup of the middle section with the cord cut-outs:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/spartanstew/P1010074.jpg

And a shot of the rear:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/spartanstew/P1010075.jpg

After gluing the flooring to the base, I used blue painters tape to cover the wood flooring and then added another 2 coats of paint and also started painting the trim pieces. Again, the blacks look mottled, but look much better than that in person.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/spartanstew/P1010076.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/spartanstew/P1010077-1.jpg

Well, I finally completed my DIY stand. Here's a couple of pictures:

Right side view (http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php?photo=14473&size=big&sort=1&cat=500)
View from my seat (http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php?photo=14472&size=big&sort=1&cat=503)

I wanted a Salamander Triple 20, but didn't want to pay the price. I also didn't like some of their construction details. I was inspired by joeren who showed off his Salamander Triple 20 clone in this thread a few months ago. I did something similar, but made some interesting changes.

I wanted bullnosed edges, rounded corners, and hardwood rather than MDF. I also wanted the stand to be wider to accomodate my Ascend center channel, deeper to accomodate my receiver, and shorter by 2" to give me the optimal viewing height.

I made the center channel shelf flush with the front lip of the stand so the speaker wouldn't be in a cave. I also used Auralex MoPads to angle the speaker up to the listening position and decouple it from the stand which should diminish resonances. I actually prefer mounting the center above the TV, but the WAF factor changed all that. :D

I purchased the aluminum posts from tslots.com. I liked their look better than the other vendors I found because it has smooth outer edges rather than fluted edges. I bought the hardware from Salamander, and hardwood at a local dealer. I still have to make the doors to keep the kiddies out of my gear.

I finished it with Natural Danish Oil and a wipe on Poly topcoat. The project took me about 30-35 hours to complete over a month or so. I'm a novice, so I took my time and had some fun with it. I have about $350 into the stand, which is a lot easier to swallow than the $1600 price tag I was looking at for the Salamander with bells and whistles.

If anyone is interested in going this route, I would recommend using the Salamander hardware, as it's only a few dollars more expensive than ordering brackets from the tslot vendor and other hardware from McMaster. The Salamander top bolts and levelling feet extend much farther into the tubing than the stuff available from McMaster. That improves the stand's strength, but there is a price. You need to purchase an expensive (~$20) nut tap to tap the end holes deeper than a standard tap will go.

Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. Because of this thread, I was inspired to build my own stand, and I couldn't be happier with the result.

"Jimsiff: Sorry to go back so far for this quote to ask you questions. I was wondering how you fit the wood sides & back into the Tslot AL posts, were the wood panels shaped into the "T" shape to fit inside the slots exactly & how did you do that. I am not a builder. DO you have any photos of that part of the build ? Thanks for your time !
Great looking cabinet !

"Jimsiff: Sorry to go back so far for this quote to ask you questions. I was wondering how you fit the wood sides & back into the Tslot AL posts, were the wood panels shaped into the "T" shape to fit inside the slots exactly & how did you do that. I am not a builder. DO you have any photos of that part of the build ? Thanks for your time !
Great looking cabinet !


Im not "Jimsiff". i dont think he hangs out here anymore. i havent seen any post by him lately. You could try PM'ing him.
i built a salamader clone so maybe i can help. this is how i did it.
the sides on mine are the same plywood that was used for the rest of the project. i used my table saw to cut the ends into an 'L' shape .it would have been easier if i had dado blades but i used a single blade on the table. i suppose it could be done in a 'T' as in your question but without dado blades it would be more dificult. the 'L' that i made fits into the slot in the aluminum extrusion.
i had purchased a hardware kit from salamander so on the back i used the supplied nuts,bolts, and thumb screws. i used 1/8 ply for the back.
i dont believe i have any pictures that shows detail of the cuts. if you search on here you should find pics of the project.
good luck. and post some pics .

EDIT: after going back and looking at "jims" pics. if you look at the 2nd one , the lop left slot that doesnt have any thing in it. it apears as though he didnt put a back on.

I just finished my tv stand. This thread convinced me that I could do it. This is the first thing real project that I have done. It turned out just how the wife wanted it. I still need to put a back on, but wanted to check out how I was going to hook up all the cabels first. Here are some pics of the process. Thanks to everyone for the inspiration!
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i158/cfoley_photos/tv%20stand/1one.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i158/cfoley_photos/tv%20stand/2two.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i158/cfoley_photos/tv%20stand/3three.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i158/cfoley_photos/tv%20stand/4four.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i158/cfoley_photos/tv%20stand/5five.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i158/cfoley_photos/tv%20stand/6six.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i158/cfoley_photos/tv%20stand/7seven.jpg

I just finished my tv stand. This thread convinced me that I could do it. This is the first thing real project that I have done. It turned out just how the wife wanted it. I still need to put a back on, but wanted to check out how I was going to hook up all the cabels first. Here are some pics of the process. Thanks to everyone for the inspiration!


Nice job, ninjapirate.

Yes, it looks awesome!

First off great thread!

Has anyone used a table router for creating their stand? I just ordered the kds55a3000 and I plan on starting my stand this weekend. Plus I got a brand new router and finishing nailer for christmas, so I need an excuse to use it!

Stape

agreed...looks awesome ....nice job

Hey Stew4msu,

I also am looking at building the stand below! I think I remember you considering it as well. My problem is do you think it is silly to have the center channel on the bottom middle shelf....I have the Polk CSi5 I believe, you can flip it over so that it angles upwards. The reason I am doing it is because the thing is massive, 25'' wide and 9 1/2'' tall! Or I can flip the way it is and have the bottom middle shelf shorter than the top middle shelf! Any suggestions from anyone would be great!

http://home.earthlink.net/~kingjahrome/TV%20Stand.htm

Or I can flip the way it is and have the bottom middle shelf shorter than the top middle shelf! Any suggestions from anyone would be great!


That's what I'd do. You actually don't even have to flip it, just lower that one shelf and you should be fine.

The closer to ear height the speaker, the better. Even though you can tilt it to compensate, it's not quite the same. Especially if you ever want to have a coffee table or anything between you and the TV. It could easily partially block the sound if the speaker is that low.

It's taken me four days to read through this thread and follow all the links, and while I'm still reading the suggested finishing book it's time to start design work.

I'm going with the tried and true triple cavity box, most likely out of Oak ply stained or dyed to resemble the Black Ash of my speaker cabinets. I'll leave the back open on the ends and fill the center section for stability, though I'll probably make a good sized cutout in it. I prefer to hide the equipment, but I'm not settled on the type of door yet. It could be unboardered smoked glass, or a panel with either a smoked glass or perforated insert. The latter would aid in ventilation, though it probably wouldn't be necessary. I have a circular saw and aluminum fence from another project so I have what I need to cut with. I can borrow a biscuit joiner and a router, so the only tool I should need to purchase is the shelf drill guide.

The 61" Samsung DLP is going to arrive before I get started, but that could be a good thing as it will allow me to try different heights with a temporary stand before I start cutting wood.

It will probably be a fairly low stand (18-20"), so I'm considering using "Magic Furniture Glides" instead of casters to save a couple inches of interior cabinet height. Has anyone had experience with them?

David,

Will it be on carpet? I had some of those furniture glides on my couch at my last house (on carpet) and they worked pretty good.
My living room floor is hardwood, so I'm going to be putting on some 2" tall wood bun feet and then putting some felt pads on the bottom of those.

David,

Will it be on carpet? I had some of those furniture glides on my couch at my last house (on carpet) and they worked pretty good.


Yes it will be on carpet. I was just wondering how much effort it would take to shift the cabinet loaded with a 75lb TV and another 75-90lbs of electronics. The draws are the low profile and not having to deal with spining castors causing a "jam" when they all want to reverse at the same time.

Check out this cutting guide & video. Wish I saw this before I built my stand.

http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/hvt041.asp

Check out this cutting guide & video. Wish I saw this before I built my stand.

http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/hvt041.asp

I hope everyone noticed that when he crosscut the plywood, he really measured from the wrong end of the plywood, if he wanted the longer piece. If he wanted the shorter piece, the way he cut it will leave it too short by the width of the blade. He did comment on this but it may not have registered with everyone.

Finally got my stand 98% done. All that's left is some sanding of the doors so they open and close more freely. It's 8' wide, 23" deep and 14" tall. Perfect for my 62" Mits. It has 4 doors that are hinged to open down. It also has adjustable shelves to hold up to 8 componants. Each compartment is 24" wide to allow for maximum cooling. Here's a pic. The wife even decorated it.

Very nice! Obvious right off that your wife's touch was added right away - I do like the ambient lighting it gives though. I'm going to ask my wife what she thinks.

This forum is great! Been thinking how I'm gonna perch my 60A3000 when it arrives (believe, I've considered the coffee table, milk crates, Ikea, even coughing up the 2-4 bills for the Sony stand...)

Not the best wood worker myself, but I might be able to get my Dad to help me whack one together. Ideas ideas ideas!

I've decided to build my new entertainment center. I have some woodworking experience, although nothing professional. Furniture-wise, I have built a stand and canopy for a 125 gallon fish tank, and I "built" my current entertainment center (actually I joined 2 pre-made pieces together to make one unit).

I am interested in learning about how people make the holes for adjustable shelves. I've seen the pics on here, and I thought I saw a link to instructions somewhere, but I can't find it. Are there templates or tools you can buy to make it easier? What about the hardware to stick in the holes for the shelves to sit on?

I am debating using casters. I would like some good-quality casters if I use them. I've seen multiple sizes, and multiple mounting methods. The entertainment center will be 8' wide, about 7 feet tall, and varying depths between 18" and 24" (deeper base with a hutch-like top). A rough guesstimate shows that I will be using either 4 or 5 4x8 sheets of 3/4" birch or oak plywood. Not sure how much one sheet weighs. Then I'll have a 90lb TV, 50+ lb receiver, DVD players, games, trim, shelves, decor, etc. This will be going on average indoor home carpet. Any recommendations as to which mounting type to use, how many, how far spaced apart, etc? Should I even use casters for this type of unit?

Thanks for any info.

I am interested in learning about how people make the holes for adjustable shelves. I've seen the pics on here, and I thought I saw a link to instructions somewhere, but I can't find it. Are there templates or tools you can buy to make it easier? What about the hardware to stick in the holes for the shelves to sit on?


http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5876
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=112



I am debating using casters. I would like some good-quality casters if I use them. I've seen multiple sizes, and multiple mounting methods. The entertainment center will be 8' wide, about 7 feet tall, and varying depths between 18" and 24" (deeper base with a hutch-like top). A rough guesstimate shows that I will be using either 4 or 5 4x8 sheets of 3/4" birch or oak plywood. Not sure how much one sheet weighs. Then I'll have a 90lb TV, 50+ lb receiver, DVD players, games, trim, shelves, decor, etc. This will be going on average indoor home carpet. Any recommendations as to which mounting type to use, how many, how far spaced apart, etc? Should I even use casters for this type of unit?

Thanks for any info.

Don't think I'd use casters on something that tall. I like casters on lowboys, but not entertainment centers. Just have it rest on the floor or use bun feet. Here's an example, but you can get them at HD or Lowes too that are stainable/paintable:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=16436&filter=bun%20feet

I am interested in learning about how people make the holes for adjustable shelves. I've seen the pics on here, and I thought I saw a link to instructions somewhere, but I can't find it. Are there templates or tools you can buy to make it easier? What about the hardware to stick in the holes for the shelves to sit on?

I used a piece of pegboard to lay out the holes with. I marked big green X's on each hole I was using and marked top and front on the board. That way all I had to do was flip it over for the matching side. It was almost impossible to mess up once I had it all laid out.

-John

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5876
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=112




Don't think I'd use casters on something that tall. I like casters on lowboys, but not entertainment centers. Just have it rest on the floor or use bun feet. Here's an example, but you can get them at HD or Lowes too that are stainable/paintable:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=16436&filter=bun%20feet

Thanks! That's exactly what I was looking for.

I purchased 8 heavy duty caster wheels with non marking treads from this company:

http://www.castercity.com/

... they easily support my entertainment centre (7' x 6' x 2') and provide easy access to the components for upgrades/changes.

Getting some ideas together for my stand for my 60A3000... some fantastic work showcased in this forum! I still haven't yet read all pages (still in '06 - LOL) but am catching up.

Going with the standard 3 column box arrangement using oak veneer ply. CC mounted high in the middle, drawer below, false back in the center recessed in order to house wire, UPS, power bar, etc. One thing I am interested in knowing (as it will determine my tool purchase) is this: To prevent racking (why is this total failure called 'racking', BTW?), in addition to the false back in the center, should I use: a) dadoes/rabbits to mate the top/bottom with the verticals or b) butt joints and biscuits or c) butt joints and dowels (and screws?)? Or a combination thereof?

I'm primarily interested in strength but I also want to conceal the joinery as much as possible. I tend more to believe that screws/nails shouldn't be necessary and so would like to minimize (or eliminate) their use and employ techniques that avoid them wherever possible. Might be more challenging but I'm up for that. :)

Strips to conceal the plywood layers - what do you suggest: iron-on natural oak or (somehow) acquire thin oak trim strips and glue them on? Besides the iron-on, are thin trim strips available or do you typically manufacture them yourselves? The unit is to be stained fairly dark and urethaned for appearance and durability.

Also thinking of cooling techniques since I will have two satellite receivers, the AV receiver/amp, HDD/DVD recorder and an Xbox 360 (lots of heat) in the cabinet. Simply leaving off the front/back potentially leaves the heat room to escape, but there's nothing to prevent stagnant air from simply sitting in place and getting hotter. I can see a need to move air. I also want to install smoked glass doors to dress things up and keep little fingers away from pricey components so cooling becomes more of a critical issue. From reading a cooling article posted here over a year ago, I imagine a fan-based cooling solution is the ticket here. What are you folks using for quiet cooling in your cabinets?

Hey guys... as the thread starter, I promised to never totally abandon this thread, so every once in a while I come back and look over your shoulders to see whats going on. It's also amazing that the thread has been viewed in excess of 400,000 times!

My stand is now about 3+ years old and has held up extremely well. The eight (8) spherical casters allow me to pull it out of the corner without too much of a fuss. None of my seams has split, and the finish has held up very nicely too. The three-compartment setup seems to have become a staple design. I added the wire channel about a year ago to help organize the rats nest of wires and that helps as I have Cable, DTV, DVD, VCR (:confused:why?), Receiver, Center Channel, and the UPS to contend with.

Anyway, its really neat to see all the great work that everyone is doing, and we all know that ton of noobs will read through the thread (or at least try to) and get inspired by your work. Keep it up!:D

Great to hear from you IronHorse. My stand should be done in the next 2 weeks (a matter of finding time to work on it) and I can't wait to show the final pictures.

All owed to you. Thanks.

Hey guys... as the thread starter, I promised to never totally abandon this thread, so every once in a while I come back and look over your shoulders to see whats going on. It's also amazing that the thread has been viewed in excess of 400,000 times!

My stand is now about 3+ years old and has held up extremely well. The eight (8) spherical casters allow me to pull it out of the corner without too much of a fuss. None of my seams has split, and the finish has held up very nicely too. The three-compartment setup seems to have become a staple design. I added the wire channel about a year ago to help organize the rats nest of wires and that helps as I have Cable, DTV, DVD, VCR (:confused:why?), Receiver, Center Channel, and the UPS to contend with

Hey IH,

Do you have pics to show of the wiring solution you've installed?

I made the decision a couple or so months ago to ditch the VCR. It's downstairs now... out of my hair. It was hard, but the purchase of a HDD/DVD recorder made the pain much more bearable. I still have some tapes to get rid of in the bottom of my current component rack though...

^^
i used Panduit for wire management behind my stand. i mounted one close to the top for AV cables and one at the bottom for power cables. My ISF calibrator said the back of my stand was the cleanest he'd ever seen.
--------------------------------------------------------

i must also give big thumbs up to iron horse for starting this thread. it has become a huge and valuable knowledge base for ideas. there isn't another one like it anywhere on AVS.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5876
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=112




Don't think I'd use casters on something that tall. I like casters on lowboys, but not entertainment centers. Just have it rest on the floor or use bun feet. Here's an example, but you can get them at HD or Lowes too that are stainable/paintable:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=16436&filter=bun%20feet

i used casters under mine 84"long x 72'high x 26'deep and its fine, even rolls on carpet.

Yes, I'm sure casters would work, just wouldn't be my preference. Just seems to me that something that tall and only 2' deep would be a bit more prone to tip over if it were on casters. Since I have a 2 and a 5 year old, it's just something I have to think about. Of course, it probably wouldn't be any more likely, but for some reason, it just seems like it would be to me.

^^
i used Panduit for wire management behind my stand. i mounted one close to the top for AV cables and one at the bottom for power cables. My ISF calibrator said the back of my stand was the cleanest he'd ever seen.


Which Panduit product did you use, and exactly where did you place them?

Anyone in Arizona, Phoenix area build their own?

If you have an would like to help me do the same let me know. I don't have the proper tools to build something like this... but I have the time and the determination :)

Which Panduit product did you use, and exactly where did you place them?

I'm not sure what product name was. i bought 2 6' pieces from ebay almost a year ago. it was just described as "panduit" there were stickers on the back with barcode and part number and 'panduit' but I'm not going to remove them to see exactly what it says. they are about 2"x2" square, you run the cable through the center and it has openings in the sides for wires to enter and exit the channel and a cap that snaps down on the top.

i mounted one horizontally across the upper back of the stand and one horizontally across the lower back of the stand. originally it was 2 solid 6' pieces but later i decided i wanted to have doors on the back of the stand so i removed them , cut and hinged the back panel and as a result had to cut the panduit so the doors would open. the wires exit holes in the back of the stand go into the panduit then exit the panduit wherever necessary. i also mounted a panamax suppressor strip to the back of the stand so all power cables exit the panduit and plug in at the stand. the only wires going from the stand to the wall are the panamax cable and 4 speaker wires that go under the floor at the wall and these are in flexible split conduit. my stand is 2 feet from the wall so i can work behind it without moving anything. if i get a chance later I'll take a pic.

I'm not sure what product name was. i bought 2 6' pieces from ebay almost a year ago. it was just described as "panduit" there were stickers on the back with barcode and part number and 'panduit' but I'm not going to remove them to see exactly what it says. they are about 2"x2" square, you run the cable through the center and it has openings in the sides for wires to enter and exit the channel and a cap that snaps down on the top.


What you describe seems to match best with the "PatchLink Model WMPHF2E" horizontal cable management system on this page (http://www.wire-managers.com/catalog/Panduit-Wire-Managers.htm), though this is only 19" long.

What you describe seems to match best with the "PatchLink Model WMPHF2E" horizontal cable management system on this page (http://www.wire-managers.com/catalog/Panduit-Wire-Managers.htm), though this is only 19" long.

I think it's probably more like this (panduit's website isn't working for me right now, but they aren't the only one making this stuff):

Cable Duct (http://cableorganizer.com/wire-duct/economical-wiring-duct.html)

Buy a chunk of this, cut to fit and attach with screws or double-sided tape.

I used a piece of this when I installed new wiring throughout the home for phone and network. Keeps the cables from the hub to the patch panel neatly organized. If you have a computer recycler in the area, check with them. They often get commercial and government "waste" or replaced items. I've picked up perfectly good ethernet patch panels (bix punchdown type), the cable duct (already cut to fit a 19" rack), and a myriad of other used goodies for next to nothing.

(I don't know why I didn't think earlier of using this for my own project. Ding ding ding!)

I think it's probably more like this (panduit's website isn't working for me right now, but they aren't the only one making this stuff):

Cable Duct (http://cableorganizer.com/wire-duct/economical-wiring-duct.html)

)


yes, this is what i used,,,,,except mine is black

So how strong are biscuits, really? Someone said that you could use biscuits and no screws. Is that a good idea?

I am mainly interested in biscuits for making the doors, though. I don't see a different/better way to make them. Are biscuits strong enough for a cabinet door with a glass insert?

And what about biscuit joiners? All the brand name ones are $100+. Are the $20 E-bay ones just as good for this type of project? Sorry, I know nohing about biscuits and joiners.

On a related note, I tried to buy the wood for my stand this past weekend. Nobody in town has any 3/4" oak plywood. I had a good amount of time to work on it, but I couldn't even get started without the wood.

So how strong are biscuits, really? Someone said that you could use biscuits and no screws. Is that a good idea?

I am mainly interested in biscuits for making the doors, though. I don't see a different/better way to make them. Are biscuits strong enough for a cabinet door with a glass insert?

And what about biscuit joiners? All the brand name ones are $100+. Are the $20 E-bay ones just as good for this type of project? Sorry, I know nohing about biscuits and joiners.

On a related note, I tried to buy the wood for my stand this past weekend. Nobody in town has any 3/4" oak plywood. I had a good amount of time to work on it, but I couldn't even get started without the wood.

cant really quote a strength based on ft. lbs. or anything but they make a pretty strong joint. i used them to make my doors. i have also used them to join 2 boards for shelves.

my joiner is a craftsman. don't recall exactly how much it cost but I'm pretty sure it didn't cost that much. i haven't looked at the $20 ones on ebay but if you're only planning on using it once I'd give it a shot. i mean its just a motor and a blade with some adjustments. you could probably compare the specs on the expensive one against the cheep one and decide if its worth $20. BTW I've got some "cheap" no name electric tools that have lasted me for many years. some of the cheap tools from places like Chicago tool and harbor freight are pretty good for the occasional user.

Haven't viewed this thread in quite awhile; got an email that there was a new post and discovered I had quite a lot to catch up on!

Responding to several posts in reverse order:

To PDCL, if you don't want to venture in the biscuit direction, for something like the frame of a paneled, or glass-paneled, door, you could make the stiles and rails of the frame with lap joints: The ends of each piece have a rabbet exactly half the thickness of the stock as long as the mating stile/rail is wide. You glue them up and, if you're not especially finnicky about such things, use a screw or a couple of nails from the backside. Not the "pro" route but it might work for you.

Hardwood plywood can be a specialty item, but the "big box" home centers typically carry oak and birch. Look around; probably in a major metro area near you there's someone who carries a variety of hardwood plywoods. After all, SOMEONE is supplying the local cabinet makers! I'm in the Boston area, and in Somerville, next to Boston, there's Boulter Plywood, who carry all manner of hardwood plywoods. They ship, but I wouldn't want to pay the freight charges if I were far away :D

Next, I'd second Stew4msu's recommendation of Rockler Jig-It's for drilling the holes for adjustable shelves. Note that you really need their special drill bit assembly, too, to work with the Jig-It. Finally, I'd recommend the 1/4" size rather than the 5mm size, because you can find a variety of styles of 1/4" pins at Home Depot and the like. The 5mm size works if you're trying to match European cabinetry, where 5mm holes are pretty much a standard.

As for avoiding the use of fasteners that can be seen, I've been a fearless user of finishing nails in my cabinet work. You can buy fillers that match the color of the wood pretty well (I like Famowood) to fill the depressions after you've set the nails, and after finishing (and especially if you're staining) anyone but you would be hard pressed to find them. Again, may not be the "pro" route, but it works for me.

Lastly, ninjapirate, if MY garage were as empty as yours, I'd be building a LOT more furniture!

Ken (who never did post the pix of the basement home theater wall system he built 4 years ago...)

Well, finally finished my stand yesterday (just in time, because I picked up my new TV last night).

For those that didn't see my other posts, my goal was to basically build a 3 compartment lowboy with adjustable shelves in each. Open front and back. Used a combination of MDF, 2X4's, wood trim, and laminate flooring (to match my floors). I'm a believer in erring on the side of strength and this is one heavy piece of furniture.

Here' the finished product:

Front view (without shelves)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/spartanstew/Frontview.jpg
Angled view (without shelves)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/spartanstew/Angledview.jpg
In the niche with equipment:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/spartanstew/WithGear.jpg

Here's what our living room entertainment system looked like before:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/spartanstew/Before.jpg
here's the after:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/spartanstew/After.jpg
And here's what it looks like from my seat:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/spartanstew/Watching2.jpg

I'm not a very good photographer and the pics don't do it justice. Turned out way better than I expected and the wife is very pleased. Made the whole thing with just a miter saw, jig saw, clamps, glue and screws.

A big thanks to ironhorse and every else that contributed for their inspiration. Total materials cost was about $200 and my wife told me she'd have paid $1500 at Ethan Allen for it.

Hey, looks great Stew4msu!!!!

I really like the fact that you used the same laminate flooring in your stand to match your living room flooring. Very cool ideal.

Great job!

I wish I had the skills to be a DIY'er. I'm more of a beliver in DDIY. (don't do it yourself)

Thanks for posting up your pics.

Hey, looks great Stew4msu!!!!

I really like the fact that you used the same laminate flooring in your stand to match your living room flooring. Very cool ideal.

Great job!

I wish I had the skills to be a DIY'er. I'm more of a beliver in DDIY. (don't do it yourself)

Thanks for posting up your pics.

Thank you very much.

The laminate flooring idea really came out of necessity. I'm not very good with wood and didn't want to have to do any staining. I tried to come up with a way to avoid that and didn't really want to just paint the whole thing black. Most of my ideas are a result of not being able to do things the "right way".

good job stew. that turned out quite nice indeed.
ain't it gratifying to know you saved loads of cash and did something yourself that is most likely built sturdier than anything you could have purchased!
wait until visitors ask "where did you buy that stand?" and you can proudly say "i built it myself":)

Does anyone have a simplistic design for a newbie woodworker...I have a spring break in which I have time to build one...and a garage if I need (at my parents). I have no power tools other than a drill and sander so I would need to rent a saw.

But does anyone have a guide that I could use...I can follow simple directions (built my computer I've been using for 3 years) and want to learn how to do this.

It is for a 61 inch Samsung DLP.

I plan on using MDF and either staining/poly or use a veneer.

Wow, just found this thread. I'm a pretty avid woodworker, and here are a few tips from when I built my stand a few years back:

1. A tip for making holes for adjustable shelves. No need to buy an expensive jig. You can get a piece of pegboard, (I use the plastic peg board as it is a bit more durable), line it up with the edges, and use those holes as a template. They are perfectly spaced and perfectly sized. Just use a hand drill with a depth stop to make perfect holes all day long.

2. For the guy above asking about the strength of biscuits for doors with glass. Now way would I rely on that. Get a Kreg pocket hole jig (the sell them at Lowe's or online.) One of the fastest and strongest ways you can build face frames, and the fasteners are hidden. You could actually use this to assemble your whole carcase. One of the slickest tools you can buy. Biscuits are mainly used for alignment purposes, keeping panels flush with each other.

3. For those with limited tools, places like home deopt sell laminated pine or maple/aspen boards in almost perfect widths for a DLP TV stand. You should be able to find 18" or 20" wide boards in various lengths, up to like 60". A jig saw or circular saw and a straightedge can be used to make a good cut if you don't have a table saw.

4. I highly recommend using small casters under the stand. Makes moving and positioning the thing a breeze.

I'll have to dig up and post pics of my stand. Until then, here's a picture of the bed I built for myself a while ago. Made of quarter sawn red oak, finished with danish oil and hand rubbed.
http://mikepro.googlepages.com/IMG_0196.JPG/IMG_0196-full.jpg
http://mikepro.googlepages.com/IMG_0203.JPG/IMG_0203-full.jpg

I was wondering if anyone had built their own DIY flat panel TV manual (spring balanced) or motorized lift TV stand ? Wow, pre built ones are hugely expensince !
Just wondering.

John

I was wondering if anyone had built their own DIY flat panel TV manual (spring balanced) or motorized lift TV stand ? Wow, pre built ones are hugely expensince !
Just wondering.

John

I've been through the whole thread and have hung around here for quite a while. i don't recall anyone posting about building that type of stand. it's possible someone did but i don't recall reading about it.

I've never really looked at that type of system but i would imagine the most difficult part would be acquiring the mechanism to lift and retract. the wood build shouldn't be too difficult. but like i said I've never really looked at them.

that being said, it would be quite interesting if you built one and posted the how-to and pics here. I'm sure others would be interested enough to try if they had some tips.

I've never really looked at that type of system but i would imagine the most difficult part would be acquiring the mechanism to lift and retract. the wood build shouldn't be too difficult. but like i said I've never really looked at them.



Here's the mechanism (warning - they're not cheap) which you can build a cabinet around:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17827&filter=tv%20lift

Here's the mechanism (warning - they're not cheap) which you can build a cabinet around:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17827&filter=tv%20lift

holy moly:eek:..... those things cost more than my whole stand build....in fact i could have built 3 stands for the price of the smallest lift. i cant imagine what a whole premanufactured stand that incorporates a lift would cost.

but wouldn't it be neat as hell to have a TV rise out of the foot board of the bed.

HDGTX...you still interested in building one?

i cant imagine what a whole premanufactured stand that incorporates a lift would cost.


HERE'S (http://www.warehousedirectusa.com/product/SNLT-20028BK?META=nextag-SNLT-20028BK) one for just over $2000, but I've seen them for as much as $6000

Here's my creation. Three bay, with the center channel in the middle, rec, dvr and PS3 below, amp to the right.
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r213/stoner51/ET%20Center/DSC00210.jpg
its a little bit cluttered
I've changed the layout since this photo, tv is 55a3000 sony
cost me about $200 to make
I left the back open for ventilation

Here's my creation. Three bay, with the center channel in the middle, rec, dvr and PS3 below, amp to the right.
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r213/stoner51/ET%20Center/DSC00210.jpg
its a little bit cluttered
I've changed the layout since this photo, tv is 55a3000 sony
cost me about $200 to make
I left the back open for ventilation

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r213/stoner51/ET%20Center/DSC00210.jpg

Very nice Stoner. How high is it?

So how strong are biscuits, really? Someone said that you could use biscuits and no screws. Is that a good idea?

I am mainly interested in biscuits for making the doors, though. I don't see a different/better way to make them. Are biscuits strong enough for a cabinet door with a glass insert?

And what about biscuit joiners? All the brand name ones are $100+. Are the $20 E-bay ones just as good for this type of project? Sorry, I know nohing about biscuits and joiners.

On a related note, I tried to buy the wood for my stand this past weekend. Nobody in town has any 3/4" oak plywood. I had a good amount of time to work on it, but I couldn't even get started without the wood.

I you guys are looking to build one EASILY, QUICKLY, and with a very strong result... you should be considering the Kreg Jig instead of biscuits, dowels, or whatever. I used one to build a dining table a few weeks ago, it was my first time with a Kreg Jig, but I have to say it was AMAZING! So much faster... there is no gluing required, you only have to 'machine' one workpiece per joint, and you don't need to have clamps everwhere. It was fast and easy, and the table couldn't be more solid.

I had better just give you the link before I start sounding too much like an advertisement. Anyway, I SURE LIKED IT, and I would be very surprised if you don't have a similar experience.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zId2FM9qzI

good job stew. that turned out quite nice indeed.
ain't it gratifying to know you saved loads of cash and did something yourself that is most likely built sturdier than anything you could have purchased!
wait until visitors ask "where did you buy that stand?" and you can proudly say "i built it myself":)


to me that's the best part of doing any home improvement yourself, that sense of pride and knowing that people will ask you about and you can say "I built that"..

great job stew, looks awesome in that niche, TV looks great too.

I you guys are looking to build one EASILY, QUICKLY, and with a very strong result... you should be considering the Kreg Jig instead of biscuits, dowels, or whatever. I used one to build a dining table a few weeks ago, it was my first time with a Kreg Jig, but I have to say it was AMAZING! So much faster... there is no gluing required, you only have to 'machine' one workpiece per joint, and you don't need to have clamps everwhere. It was fast and easy, and the table couldn't be more solid.

I had better just give you the link before I start sounding too much like an advertisement. Anyway, I SURE LIKED IT, and I would be very surprised if you don't have a similar experience.


Funny, I had no luck with the Kreg building a face frame for a bookcase with the Kreg. It split every piece of Hickory I tried, and I had the proper screws for that wood. When I managed to get a long pilot hole into the "unmachined" piece, the wood did not split but it screwed up the alignment, due to not being able to drill it in proper alignment. I'm sure they work great in many situations, and with less finicky wood, but it was an exercise in frustration for me,

I took it back.

I'm designing my TV stand and have pretty much everything ready to go minus the doors. I was just wondering what the material is that I see people using on their doors that looks like a perforated or mesh of some kind?

I'm designing my TV stand and have pretty much everything ready to go minus the doors. I was just wondering what the material is that I see people using on their doors that looks like a perforated or mesh of some kind?

Here's one option - http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2494&filter=mesh

mines aluminum panel bought from Lowe's. they had several different designs. i chose what they call 'union jack'. at my local Lowe's it is over in the isle where they keep screws, nails and stuff to hang pictures. its in a small area with the threaded rod, and angle iron

Hey Ironhorse, I sent you a PM regarding some help on a few details on making my TV stand...Just wanted to let you know through here in case you don't glance at your inbox message count all that often.

Cheers,

Kris

Here's one that I'm currently working on. I still need to get some actual pictures up, though. Now where did I put that darn camera...

(to save a double post, I'll just link you to my thread)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1042934

.

Have any of you guys tried a dark glass or smoked glass door?

Does an IR signal go through something like that OK?

Thanks

Have any of you guys tried a dark glass or smoked glass door?

Does an IR signal go through something like that OK?

Thanks

Yes I have used dark gray glass it works fine with IR.

Make sure you buy tempered glass for safety with factory ground edges.... i.e. not sharp.

Thanks Grider--

Yeah, I know about safety glass.

My new TV is 4-5" taller than my old one, so I'm starting over--(one of these days!) It just blocks too much window.

(see pic)

Yes I have used dark gray glass it works fine with IR.

Make sure you buy tempered glass for safety with factory ground edges.... i.e. not sharp.

Where? I think I looked at Rockler and maybe one of the other places mentioned in this thread, but what I found gave no indication that it was tempered.

While it depends on the stand and the location, I'd look at screen (or mesh or something similar), before I'd think about glass.
Components are getting hotter and hotter every year.

Thank you, but it's glass or nada... I'll vent and have a fan- I want the front to look like my TV, with wood to match my speakers.

Just needed to know if the ir signal would go through dark glass.

I pretty much felt the same way moonhawk, which is why I went with nada.

Well, if I ever get around to replacing the one in the pic on the previous page, I'll be sure to let everyone on this thread know what I decide.

Thanks again for your input. :)

Thanks Grider--

Yeah, I know about safety glass.

My new TV is 4-5" taller than my old one, so I'm starting over--(one of these days!) It just blocks too much window.

(see pic)

I just went through this same journey.... TV was blocking too much window. I got a plasma flat panel and mounted it over my fireplace and I am just finishing (this weekend) a new AV cart for the components. This will be 3rd AV cabinet I've built in the last 5 years.

I'll try and post pictures over the weekend.

Where? I think I looked at Rockler and maybe one of the other places mentioned in this thread, but what I found gave no indication that it was tempered.

Any reputable glass supplier should be able to give you gray tempered glass custom cut and ground edges to your exact size requirements. It is relatively in-expensive. They will also have the hinges and catches you need.

holy moly:eek:..... those things cost more than my whole stand build....in fact i could have built 3 stands for the price of the smallest lift. i cant imagine what a whole premanufactured stand that incorporates a lift would cost.

but wouldn't it be neat as hell to have a TV rise out of the foot board of the bed.

HDGTX...you still interested in building one?

Thanks "falsedawn" & "strutter" for the input. Sorry I haven't checked in a while. Wow, those are big bucks.
One can buy a projector for that kind of money.

I did run across these products from Firgelli Automation on my Internet wanderings recently;

TV lift project;

http://www.firgelliauto.com/TV%20Lift.htm

TV lift parts:

http://www.firgelliauto.com/default.php?cPath=98

They apparently will have a "plug & play" kit out in Oct of this year.

John / aka: hdgtx

Been watching from the back and thinking about how to go about building a new stand. Finally decided to draw something up and see how it all looks. Thanks to the many that have posted here before, you've provided a lot of inspiration and motivation.

I'd love to hear thoughts and suggestions.

Looks good Crispy. Is that the size of the display that will go on it? Without any listed dimensions, my first impression is that it looks to be a bit too tall.

Everything is pretty well to scale. 46" display, cabinet is 25.5"x72" sitting on a 4" skirt. That's just short of my current setup on the stand my old crt set used to sit on, but now thinking about how big it is and thinking about it being 6 ft wide I'm thinking that might be a bit much. Is there any kind of standard height? 18"?

Standard height depends on the display. You want the center of the screen to be at "eye height" when seated. Of course, if you plan to have the stand longer than your current display, you'll want to take that into account to (a larger display will usually mean a lower stand). I would say that most 6 component lowboys (like the Salamander Synergy's) are between 18" - 21" high.

Quick change to adjust the opening height to 18". Might end up bringing the depth down from 24" a bit too, something closer to 20-21". If I bring everything down that little bit I should be able to get it all out of 2-4x8 sheets instead of needing to grab a 3rd(would have needed more than that if I wanted to keep true 24" measurements with all the waste from blade width). That's assuming I can measure correctly and cut straight ;)

Planning on using 3/4" oak ply, and finishing with banding and staining everything; and this being my first furniture project I'm guessing I'll be looking this way again for more knowledge.

Thanks for the input.

A lot of veneered plywoods are cut oversized--49x97 is not uncommon, which gives you some breathing room on your cuts.

Any suggestions in this thread as to what the best way to cut cord/ventilation holes into the flimsy back of an Ikea stand would be? I've thought about a simple hand saw, but I think that would be messy.

Thanks!

Any suggestions in this thread as to what the best way to cut cord/ventilation holes into the flimsy back of an Ikea stand would be? I've thought about a simple hand saw, but I think that would be messy.

Thanks!

I used an electric jig saw after masking the area so as to minimize splintering... Didn't completely eliminate splintering but the fan mounts covered up the edges.. good luck!

I used an electric jig saw after masking the area so as to minimize splintering... Didn't completely eliminate splintering but the fan mounts covered up the edges.. good luck!
Thanks. For the smaller cord holes I might even go with a 1.5" drill bit and see how that does.

What shape do you need to cut?

For squares or rectangles, mark your outline, drill your corners, and then cut the straight sections with a hand saw.

For circles and ovals use a hole saw. Get a cheap set from harbor freight or something.

What shape do you need to cut?

For squares or rectangles, mark your outline, drill your corners, and then cut the straight sections with a hand saw.

For circles and ovals use a hole saw. Get a cheap set from harbor freight or something.
I was going to do a few circular holes and one rectangular across the top for ventilation. Thanks!

Any suggestions in this thread as to what the best way to cut cord/ventilation holes into the flimsy back of an Ikea stand would be? I've thought about a simple hand saw, but I think that would be messy.

Thanks!

Get a low cost $10-$20 hole saw kit, don't worry you will find other uses for it over time. And now that K-mart also sells certain Craftsman tools, you can find them there as well as at Sears. Home Depot and Lowes would have them also.

http://www.kmart.com/shc/s/p_10151_10104_9990000032357511P?keyword=hole+saw&sid=K-on-Sx20k061224x0000001

And as someone else also mentioned, check to see if you have a Harbor Freight outlet near you, or order through them online. There you can pick up a really low cost set. They have one 18 piece set for only $6, however I would never try to use this set on any real thick wood or thick MDF, and certainly not on anything made of metal.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94665

What shape do you need to cut?

For squares or rectangles, mark your outline, drill your corners, and then cut the straight sections with a hand saw.

For circles and ovals use a hole saw. Get a cheap set from harbor freight or something.

To minimize splintering use the hole saw to cut about 1/3 of the way through the material and then move the hole saw to the other side of the material and drill all the way through. This is easy to do because of the pilot drill in the center of the hole saw.

For the rectangular cut use the hole saw in each corner as described. Use a jig saw between the holes with the inner face of the material facing upwards when you cut. Any significant splintering will occur on the upwards facing side because a jigsaw cuts on the upstroke. By having the inner face upwards when you cut the splintering will be hidden inside the cabinet.

I don't know if Strutter still browses this board or not, been a few months since his last appearance, but I was wondering (or if anyone else knows) - for his t-slot aluminum supports - what sort of adapter piece did you use to fasten the shelves to the t-slot, some sort of L-shaped bracket with nut and bolt, or what? Also, how much do you think a shelf like that could support? Any ideas anyone has (or links) would be awesome.

I don't know if Strutter still browses this board or not, been a few months since his last appearance, but I was wondering (or if anyone else knows) - for his t-slot aluminum supports - what sort of adapter piece did you use to fasten the shelves to the t-slot, some sort of L-shaped bracket with nut and bolt, or what? Also, how much do you think a shelf like that could support? Any ideas anyone has (or links) would be awesome.

yep. i still pop in whenever someone posts.

i don't know how to explain what the shelf supports look like. I'll see if i have a picture that shows them. I'm sure i do, because i actually used the diagrams from salamander's web site and modified the dimensions for my needs. i cut all the wood. ordered the t-slots from a local company already cut to length but i had to tap the threads. all the door hinges, knobs, shelf brackets and adjustable feet came in a pack from salamander. I'm sure there are other options for shelf supports. check the Mcmaster Car on line cataloge, any shelf bracket that is made for use with t-slots will work.

the shelf will hold a whole lot of weight. of course the tighter you tighten the screws the more it will hold.

http://www.salamanderdesigns.com/syn/downloads/instr_sl_v2.pdf

scroll through this. the second page shows the shelf brackets. the next page shows how they are installed.

yep. i still pop in whenever someone posts.

i don't know how to explain what the shelf supports look like. I'll see if i have a picture that shows them. I'm sure i do, because i actually used the diagrams from salamander's web site and modified the dimensions for my needs. i cut all the wood. ordered the t-slots from a local company already cut to length but i had to tap the threads. all the door hinges, knobs, shelf brackets and adjustable feet came in a pack from salamander. I'm sure there are other options for shelf supports. check the Mcmaster Car on line cataloge, any shelf bracket that is made for use with t-slots will work.

the shelf will hold a whole lot of weight. of course the tighter you tighten the screws the more it will hold.

I've got some feelers out on those shelf supports, but thus far, haven't found much of anything close to the Salamander support design. Out of curiosity, and if you don't mind me asking, how much did that hardware pack from Salamander run you? And how did you order it, just called them up I'm guessing? I too am looking at using my own sourced T-slots, mostly because I can get rounded corners and whatnot that it doesn't seem like Salamander offers (not to mention far cheaper to do it myself than spend 1000+ on one of their stands. The posts are 1.5" square correct?

I've got some feelers out on those shelf supports, but thus far, haven't found much of anything close to the Salamander support design. Out of curiosity, and if you don't mind me asking, how much did that hardware pack from Salamander run you? And how did you order it, just called them up I'm guessing? I too am looking at using my own sourced T-slots, mostly because I can get rounded corners and whatnot that it doesn't seem like Salamander offers (not to mention far cheaper to do it myself than spend 1000+ on one of their stands. The posts are 1.5" square correct?

i'm not positive because it was a long time ago but i believe the hardware kit was like $30. the stuff that comes in the kit isnt the most beautiful hardware as far as knobs and feet go but i was glad i ordered the kit. it was great having everything i needed come all at once and not have to search around finding everything. plus it makes it easier when you're tapping the ends of the t-slots if the top bolts and the feet are the same thread.

yep i called them up and told them i needed a hardware kit for a tripple 20.

and yes i believe the t-slots were 1.5". you can go to the salamander designs web site and find PDF's for the assembly of all their products, this includes measurements.

Using putty or wood filler is fine for small nail holes but bir filling in larger holes a wood plug is best. You can by plug cutters so you can cut wood plugs from the same material the cabinet is made from to ensure consistency in the stain. Putty or plastic wood filler will not absorb the stain in the same way that the natural wood will, resulting in a mismatch between the filler and the surrounding wood.


If you are planning to stain it very dark (black), can you get away with putty/filler?

There are some nice BYO cabinets in this thread - great work all.

For anyone interested in current pricing on Salamander Synergy hardware, here are prices for some items:


Part# Description Price
300-410 SYNERGY EXTRUSION, BLACK, 17.75" $40.00
201-200 S20 TRIPLE REAR PANEL $16.00
200-554 SYN TWIN-20, REAR PANEL, EACH $16.00
PHK-380 SYNERGY SHELF PEG ASSEMBLY - LEFT (A) $2.00
PHK-370 SYNERGY SHELF PEG ASSEMBLY - RIGHT (B) $2.00
300-470 5/16 USS FLAT METAL WASHER, ZINC $0.10
300-540 5/16-18 JOINT CONN BOLT X 50 MM $1.50
PHK-240 SYNERGY REAR PANEL - BAG $6.00
PHK-150 SYNERGY HEAVY BRACKET BAG $5.00


I'm not doing a BYO cabinet, but I got a great deal on a triple wide 20" tall cabinet at the Tweeter fire sale and then picked up a pair of 70" tall (30" base + 40" extension) cabinets on a local pickup sale on eBay. Some of the hardware and rear panels were missing on the Tweeter cabinet and most of the hardware on the other 2 is in rough shape. The Tweeter cabinet also has silver posts while the others have black. Once all is said and done, I'll have about $1500 invested in the 3 cabinets including the parts needed to get them up to spec after I sell of the spare parts I don't need (like the 20" silver posts).

Whatever hardware is needed from Salamander can be ordered direct and their shipping rate seems to be very good - they're charging me $4.95 to ship everything I ordered.

If you are planning to stain it very dark (black), can you get away with putty/filler?

If case you haven't gotten a answer: I'm doing a birch ply with ebony Miniwax Oil Stain. I nailed the top on and filled the holes with Miniwax's Stainable Woodfiller. I'm going for a near black by not wiping off. The color match of the Woodfiller is fine.

My only complaint is the wood filler texture was a little rough and didn't blend in until the third coat of polyurethane was on. Maybe my fault by not getting the holes filled correctly?

Bought a new 52" Samsung last weekend so my Thomasville/BYO entertainment center has to go :) I drew up a design that matches the other pieces in the room, will hold all my gear and manage/hide all the wires. It will be made of Birch plywood and Poplar solids stained to match the cherry"ish" finish of the Thomasville Bridges 2.0 collection (http://thomasville.com/Collection81/Bridges-2.0.aspx). I have all my pieces cut and drilled just waiting on a piece of trim to come in to the lumber yard.

Bought the wood Tuesday, cut it Wednesday, started assembling Thursday, finished minus stain/poly Sunday afternoon. I would have finish finished it except that I am waiting for the piece of moulding to come in.

Pic showing test fitting:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=128579&stc=1&d=1231180148

TV will be wall mounted 6~8" above the stand once the wall mount shows up. Stain will be a few shades darker than the speaker in the picture.

Very nice.

What did you do for wire management in the rear?

Are they adjustable shelves or stationary?

Thank you.

The shelves are adjustable to seven different levels.

For wire management I cut access holes behind each component location and recessed the back panel in ~1.5" to allow it to sit as close to the wall as possible and still hide my wire bundles. I haven't actually decided what I am using to organize the wire yet. I might just use zip ties.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=128587&stc=1&d=1231190512

I haven't actually decided what I am using to organize the wire yet. I might just use zip ties.
I'd suggest using hook and loop (velcro) strips instead. I bought a big roll at the local electronic parts store (You-Do-It Electronics - sort of like Radio Shack on steroids :D) for around $10 that's lasted me quite a while now. The obvious advantage is that you can undo it without destroying the velcro so you can make adjustments without having to get cutters and new zip ties.

Nice work!

Quick, too. I'm impressed :)

Some suggestions welcome,

I'm currently planning on designing and making a dresser / entertainment center for my bedroom. Currently the TV is on top of a dresser that is about 20 years old, but is holding up pretty good. I have designed what I'm posting below. The dimensions are a little hard to read, but its almost 7 feet wide and 6 feet high. It's main purpose is to hold my 50 inch plasma and all the other electronics, but i also need to keep some storage area for clothes, so I wanted to try and put electronics on a stack to the right / left and have my drawers underneath the TV.

The compartment to the right will be a door that swings open, but another problem I'm having is thinking of a way to store my DVDs and Video games, and also hiding my sub woofer. I had saw one picture of someone with a roll-out shelf. I was thinking that I could hide the sub woofer inside the door on the bottom portion, and having a shelf that pulls out.

Does anyone also have any usefull sights? I have been trolling this thread for the past few days and have noticed a lot of broken links, but I plan to keep trolling over the newer threads and hopefully get information but stuff i need is:

Wood Ideas: I have a router I plan to do some custom stuff with like beveling the edges and perhaps making some designs on the drawers and door. Should I buy stuff that is already planned and sanded etc to save time? Or would i save a bunch more money doing it all myself?

Drawers: Finding the sides isn't too hard, but where is a good place to get the bottoms? Usually its pretty thin wood that I haven't really seen in Home Depot.

Glass Piece: I want to add a glass door to cover the electronic stack to the right to add a little more style to it.

Thank you for all the information.

I like the looks of your BYOS. Looks nice!

kenger,

Two "issues" I see:

1) That thing is HUGE, make sure you will be able to get into and out of the room you are planning on, or even the house for that matter. Make it modular and assemble the top and bottom together once it is in place.

2) I wouldn't put the subwoofer on a shelf in the unit it will more than likely just cause noisy vibrations. If hiding it in the stand is necessary I would make a space for in under the stand but have it sitting on the floor.

Other than that most wood is sanded to some degree from the lumberyard but it all requires finish sanding. The thin wood you are talking about for the drawer bottoms is probably 1/4" plywood. It will work and is available almost everywhere but I don't like it for drawer bottoms, it is too flexible, and another soure of vibration with a sub nearby.

Where did you buy the wood for that 68? That looks really freaking nice. I would like to build my own stand but dont like the idea of having to put an iron on veneer over plywood.

Thanks, we'll see how bad I screw it up when I stain it :)

There is plywood and there is plywood, the construction grade stuff (most of what you see in the store) has no place in furniture. It depends on what type of wood or finish you are going for. In my case I was going for a light grain and finish similar to Cherry. Birch Poplar and Maple all fit the bill so I bought two sheets of 3/4", half sheet of 1/4" Birch Plywood, various 1x, and 1 piece of 5/4 poplar. All the wood is from the local lumber yard but should be available from Home Depot, Lowe's, etc. All in all about $200 worth of wood. I bought one sheet of domestic and one sheet of imported 3/4" ply. The Domestic was more expensive but had two things going for it 1) 5 thick plys vs 9 really thin ones and 2) better surface on both sides. I used the Domestic for all the parts you can see and the Imported stuff for the structural pieces. I used the poplar solids to edge the top, shelves and uprights, and trim out the front attached with glue and dowel pins. The only iron on veneer (edge banding) I used is on the sides and rear of the shelves where it will never be seen.

The closest I have seen that I could buy already done with similar quality was over $1000.

Initailly I was going to use Cherry faced plywood but one sheet of 3/4" cost about as much as all the Birch and Poplar and after finishing the end result should be pretty much the same.

http://www.salamanderdesigns.com/syn/downloads/instr_sl_v2.pdf

scroll through this. the second page shows the shelf brackets. the next page shows how they are installed.

Sorry if I missed something here...

That just looks like 80/20, which can be purchased in long rods and cut as needed.
It should be reasonably inexpensive then right?