Happens to me a little more often, perhaps once ever couple of months. I'll note it when I turn on the TV and it's tuned to channel 2- the sd channel that I never watch. It's also happened when I am heavily using the program guide, i.e. pushing the arrow button over and over.

Annoying but I guess I'll live with it. Kinda like my cable modem losing contact periodically.This is one of the reasons why some users reboot their units every week/month or so. It keeps things cleared out and may reduce/eliminate untimely reboots. In my case, I just don't see the need.

As to how often it happens, I don't count those times when it happens overnight, etc., while cableco's may be passing an update or something (though even that has been a while). I don't consider that part of any problem, just sloppy management on the part of the cableco.

Hello,

I want to know if I have a defective 8300hd or not. I like to archive recordings from the 8300hd to my Pioneer dvd recorder. Using s-video (anamorphic and non-anamorphic) from 1080i sources such as TBS-HD (baseball), there are wavy interlaced lines all over the place during action shots, and it looks terrible.

720p is less of this, but you can see a bit of it.

I have tested this using HDMI and component setting the box to 480i widescreen. No difference.

I am using Sara here in Cox/Vegas. Can someone check with the game tomorrow night on tbs-hd or any fast motion stuff at 1080i, and let me know what they see with the output set a 480i?

Thanks,
Jason

Last night we were watching 1 HD show and recording 2 others and my 8300HD rebooted as well. When it came back up it continued recording the 2 shows (so I'm missing about 3 minutes of each one). I'm running SARA 1.88. I've had this particular unit about a year and this hasn't happened before. Should I be concerned and try to get a replacement unit?
mjpIf this is the only time the 8300HD has rebooted, I think you are pretty lucky. If you get another 8300HD, it will be used and it may have more problems. If you get an 8300HDC, the DVR that uses a cable card, there may be other problems since it uses SARA 1.90 and people have reported problems that didn't seem to exist in SARA 1.88, but it may have more recording options. Click on the SARA link in my signature and go to the first post and look at the new features in SARA 1.89 (near the bottom of the post). I haven't been able to verify that Houston has the new features.

Your signature is out of date. Comcast has taken over from Time Warner Cable and the SARA version is 1.88.25.1.

.....since it uses SARA 1.90 and people have reported problems that didn't seem to exist in SARA 1.88, but it may have more recording options.This brings up a good point. I've yet to see anyone post a list of changes for 1.90.x.x so that I can add them to the first post. For example, I believe this is the first I've heard of possible new recording options that aren't already in the 1.89.x.x release. But maybe you were talking about 1.89/1.90 vs 1.88. I actually thought the only change in 1.90 was CC support.

Dave,

I am talking about Comcast Houston which is still on 1.88 vs 1.90 for the SA8300HDC. I did find out that Comcast Houston uses 1.90 on the SA8300HDC. I haven't been able to find out if the new recording options in 1.89 are in the Comcast Houston 1.90 for the SA8300HDC. The only change from 1.89 to 1.90 is CC support that I know about. I am curious if I trade in my SA8300HD 1.88.25.1 for a SA8300HDC 1.90.x.x, will I get the new recording option that is in 1.89?
This brings up a good point. I've yet to see anyone post a list of changes for 1.90.x.x so that I can add them to the first post. For example, I believe this is the first I've heard of possible new recording options that aren't already in the 1.89.x.x release. But maybe you were talking about 1.89/1.90 vs 1.88. I actually thought the only change in 1.90 was CC support.

Dave,

I am talking about Comcast Houston which is still on 1.88 vs 1.90 for the SA8300HDC. I did find out that Comcast Houston uses 1.90 on the SA8300HDC. I haven't been able to find out if the new recording options in 1.89 are in the Comcast Houston 1.90 for the SA8300HDC. The only change from 1.89 to 1.90 is CC support that I know about. I am curious if I trade in my SA8300HD 1.88.25.1 for a SA8300HDC 1.90.x.x, will I get the new recording option that is in 1.89?I thought you might have been. AFAIK, 1.90 is 1.89 with CC support. Can someone with 1.90 list the recording options please?

I'm trying to track down a problem I'm having with SD, 480i. I have a Pio 6010FD and it is connected to SA8300HDC via HDMI.

All of my SD channels are displayed with black bars which I understand; I can press the zoom button on the cable remote (RTU63CP) and it will stretch or zoom as advertised. However, if I attempt to use my TV remote to stretch the image all of the stretching occurs within the 4:3 image leaving the large black bars on the side (in other words no real impact on the imbedded black bars. I wish to use my TV remote to take advantage of the Cinema Stretch which is superior to the STB stretching. Note: The HD channels 1080i and 720p work correctly, i.e. the 1080i channels displayed full and the 720p channels can be stretched using the TV stretching features.

I beleive the problem lies with the STB setup but I cannot access the wizard per any of the printed instructions I've found. The manual instructions at the top of this thread do not work, at least not the way I'm executing them. Using the remote Settings feature shows 1080i and 480i when on those channels but you cannot adjust anything there as the message indicates that is not permitted if connected via HDMI.

Can anyone who has an SA8300HDC connected via HDMI tell me exactly what they did to pass through the 480i signal so that they can use the stretching features of their TV remote?

What i did was turn the unit off and press and hold the guide and info buttons until the HD setup screen comes up.

I removed all standard settings, 480i/480p and put everything to 480p widescreen or one of the HD 720p/1080i. I also have the format setting in the settings set for HDMI Auto and no more black bars for me.

The only thing that this causes is pauses when changing channels between SD and HD channels. The box takes 1 to 5 seconds to switch rez.

Many HDTVs do not properly handle 480i via HDMI. While I don't think you want the 480p Widescreen setting, you might try it and the 480p Standard setting separately (instead of 480i) to see if one or the other will work for you. I don't use HDMI, but I believe with the Widescreen setting, the 8300 is doing the stretch and the Standard setting should allow your TV to do it. Let us know what you find. Maybe I can reword the first post a bit to help others, but I thought it and the User's Guide were fairly well defined in this area, Widescreen vs Standard.

As for the wizard, I think some folks have found it necessary to temporarily switch to the Component connection to set things up and then switch back to HDMI. YMMV.

What i did was turn the unit off and press and hold the guide and info buttons until the HD setup screen comes up.

I removed all standard settings, 480i/480p and put everything to 480p widescreen or one of the HD 720p/1080i. I also have the format setting in the settings set for HDMI Auto and no more black bars for me.

The only thing that this causes is pauses when changing channels between SD and HD channels. The box takes 1 to 5 seconds to switch rez.

dmazyn:

When you say you pressed the guide and info buttons until the HD setup screen appears.......how long did you hold them in? I do this and cannot get the anything to appear on my screen.

Dennis

Many HDTVs do not properly handle 480i via HDMI. While I don't think you want the 480p Widescreen setting, you might try it and the 480p Standard setting separately (instead of 480i) to see if one or the other will work for you. I don't use HDMI, but I believe with the Widescreen setting, the 8300 is doing the stretch and the Standard setting should allow your TV to do it. Let us know what you find. Maybe I can reword the first post a bit to help others, but I thought it and the User's Guide were fairly well defined in this area, Widescreen vs Standard.

As for the wizard, I think some folks have found it necessary to temporarily switch to the Component connection to set things up and then switch back to HDMI. YMMV.

DoubleDAZ

Thanks for the repy; I don't thing there is anything wrong with your post. The information is a goldmine. The things you suggest I cannot do because I cannot get into the Wizard. Your comment on the Component connection might be an avenue worth pursuing. Is the setup input specific? In other words could I connect my TV via component on another input with HDMI still connected, see if I can setup via wizard, then disconnect the component?

I only hold them down for a few seconds, 5 at most. I just tired it using HDMI as the first time I did it I was using component and it still works for me.

I have a 8300HDC and a family member has a 8300HD and I have gotten to the setup on both boxes. For some reason the family members did not get rid of the black bars. It might be the TV, he has a Vizo 40 inch LCD and I have the Polaroid 46 inch LCD.

dmazyn:

When you say you pressed the guide and info buttons until the HD setup screen appears.......how long did you hold them in? I do this and cannot get the anything to appear on my screen.

Dennisparoshd, are you pushing these buttons on the FRONT PANEL of the 8300 - NOT the remote? Need to do it on the box.

Also, are you sure that you have SARA? Passport (or Navigator) works differently?

I only hold them down for a few seconds, 5 at most. I just tired it using HDMI as the first time I did it I was using component and it still works for me.

I have a 8300HDC and a family member has a 8300HD and I have gotten to the setup on both boxes. For some reason the family members did not get rid of the black bars. It might be the TV, he has a Vizo 40 inch LCD and I have the Polaroid 46 inch LCD.

dmazn:

Can I verify with you exactly what you do on your 8300HDC. If you came into your TV room with everything turned off. What would you do? Turn on your TV, Press the Power button on your 8300HDC to turn STB off, then press and hold both buttons for a few seconds?

I think this is what I've been doing but nothing happens. Anyway I would like to confirm before I complain to TWC.

thx Dennis

paroshd, are you pushing these buttons on the FRONT PANEL of the 8300 - NOT the remote? Need to do it on the box.

Also, are you sure that you have SARA? Passport (or Navigator) works differently?

Dave:

I do not believe I do have SARA. During boot up process OCAP was on the STB window and during the load by TWC my TV displayed Mystro which I believe is the older named version of the Navigator.

If you know how I am to proceed with setting up my TV using some other method please direct me. I've just been using whatever manuals I could find for an 8300HDC.

Thx Dennis

Dave:

I do not believe I do have SARA. During boot up process OCAP was on the STB window and during the load by TWC my TV displayed Mystro which I believe is the older named version of the Navigator.

If you know how I am to proceed with setting up my TV using some other method please direct me. I've just been using whatever manuals I could find for an 8300HDC.

Thx DennisProbably you do have Navigator. There are some AVS threads (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=723830) devoted to that. Also, I'd suggest you include your location in your profile (Click on User CP to get there). That often clues folks into what you are likely to have.

Hi, hello:

I had been getting a lot of pixilation on my HD channels so I placed a call to service. They came out last night and swapped out my box - a SA8300HD. There's something odd about the setup of this new box in that can't get my display back to what it was.

Here's what my old box did: On SD channels, it displayed the bars on the left/right. I think you folks call this "pillarbox"? The HD channels displayed in full 16:9. Neither SD or HD channels were "zoomed" or "stretched" - it's not an effect I care for anyway.

Now that I have the new box, *everything* is zoomed or stretched. SD and HD. The "#" key has no effect (it did work with the prev 8300HD). I've gone over post one of this thread (THANKS!) and tried various permutations of settings with no success. Here are a few of the things I've tried:

1) Did the info/guide setup routine. A few times in idiot mode, a few times in advanced. While doing the latter, I tried just 1080i, or 1080i with 480i, etc.

2) Settings/Settings: I'm set for pass-through, but tried the other various settings too. I think the old 8300HD was set to pass-though, but I'm not positive. I did verify that the STB knows that I have a widescreen tv in this menu too.

I called service bask this AM (Brighthouse) but of course, they can come out on Sunday night with almost no notice, but now it's going to be few days before they can get back to me.

I feel like I must be missing something simple or obvious here. Does anyone have an idea why everything is zoomed/stretched and my "#" key no longer works?

cheers!
Chris

Yeah, your setting of pass-through is the problem. You have to use Fixed mode which also speeds up channel switching. I think the box defaults to 1080i Fixed. But most of the time they recycle the boxes and you may not get a new box that has the default settings.

Originally posted by parishd


If you know how I am to proceed with setting up my TV using some other method please direct me. I've just been using whatever manuals I could find for an 8300HDC.

Dennis,

I ran into the same problem a few days ago when I got HDTV. I live in Columbus and have the exact same HD DVR as you with the same software. I had problems with getting the box to enter the set-up as discussed with SARA and change the default screen ratio (My software is Mystro as well). I also have HDMI as my primary HD connection. It stumpped me for a while but then I came up with an acceptable solution.

The best work around that I have found is to connect the S-Video input and use it as the primary SD connection (you could also use the Coax or A/V but in my opinion for SD the S-video is probably the best assuming you have your audio running through a different method e.g. optical). The 8300, when using HDMI outputs, only sends HD signals and the DVR acts as a passive relay (it doesn't process the signal's format your TV does), this is how TW can broadcast both 1080i and 720p. However, using the HDMI connection does not disable the other outputs. Which is good for us since you can use them as well.

If you do this you will have to change the input on your TV to access this connection (e.g. S-Video or A/V 1) but it will allow you to choose all of your aspect ratios and you will be able to get rid of any black bars when watching SDTV. When you want to view HD just change the input on your TV to HDMI.

Its anoying to some extent but you will not have to manualy change inputs and it will resolve the problem of watching SD.

What we really need is to know how to keep the 8300 "fixed" instead of in pass-through, but I have yet to figure that out (I like you tried all of the suggestions posted in the 8300 threads but none worked for me- I think its the Mystro which I think is a NEW not old software). But if anyone knows something that could help us both out that would be great. Until I suggest doing what I wrote above.

BTW. I found out today that the eSATA port is enable if you want to add extra storage. TW will tell you its not because they do not want to support it (I don't blame them), but its a lie it works.

If you know how I am to proceed with setting up my TV using some other method please direct me. I've just been using whatever manuals I could find for an 8300HDC.I don't know of ANY manual for the 8300HDC that discusses how it works with Navigator. This is a SARA thread, but we're all willing to help if we can.

My suggestion to try Component is based on others who have had their 8300 "stick" in a certain mode and that was the only way to get out of it. I don't know if that will work with Navigator. Since you have been trying different things, a reboot might be in order too to clear things out. If it were me though, I'd find one of the Navigator threads and see waht they have to say.

Click on the Navigator link in my signature to go to the Navigator thread. There may be posts about setting up your 8300HDC.

Dave:

I do not believe I do have SARA. During boot up process OCAP was on the STB window and during the load by TWC my TV displayed Mystro which I believe is the older named version of the Navigator.

If you know how I am to proceed with setting up my TV using some other method please direct me. I've just been using whatever manuals I could find for an 8300HDC.

Thx Dennis

So, I've got the 8300HDC (not by choice) with SARA 1.90.5.103. I'm not a happy camper. While I don't see any differences in the recording capabilities, I'll be happy to look and try whatever you like (was it Russ who asked?). Russ, I think you and Dave have been around here for longer than I have, and I think niether of you would be happy with the bugs that exist in the 8300HDC. In fact, I'd like to get my hands on an 8300HD any way I can - unless SA can address and fix the existing bugs. My first box was an 8000HD and while it took awhile for the 8300HD to work out its bugs, I thought it was pretty stable recently, now this (8300HDC). I don't know if I've got the energy to go through the same thing again on the HDC - but we'll see...

stosh,

I think we both asked. Here is the list of the 4 options I have (I believe Russ is missing one or more of these or some are different):

1. First Run only on this channel
2. On this channel this day in this time slot
3. On this channel at any time
4. On this channel any day in this time slot

I'm curious about the bugs you mentioned. I don't recall reading about any that are specific to the HDC and I don't expect you to provide a laundry list, but I am interested in what you are experieincing. I know some still have missed/short recordings, particularly Cablevision, but I don't think those are unique/specific to 1.90.

Houston Comcast has not upgraded from SARA 1.88.25.1 to SARA 1.89.x.x but it does offer the 8300HDC, cable card DVR, which uses SARA 1.90.x.x. SARA 1.88.x.x does not have the "On this channel this day in this time slot" recording option which was added in SARA 1.89.x.x and it also doesn't display whether an episode is NEW in the IPG. Click on SARA in my signature and look at the "New Features - 1.89.x.x" section near the end of the first post. I am curious if these features will work in Houston if I get an 8300HDC, cable card DVR? The first step is to find out if these features are in SARA 1.90.x.x. Stosh, if you can let me know if you have these features I would really appreciate it. The next step is to find out if they work in Houston. If there is someone in Houston with a 8300HDC I would like to know if these features work in Houston.

Also, I am curious about what kind of problems people are having with 1.89 and 1.90? I am not going to upgrade if I will have more problems.

Thanks

stosh,

I think we both asked. Here is the list of the 4 options I have (I believe Russ is missing one or more of these or some are different):

1. First Run only on this channel
2. On this channel this day in this time slot
3. On this channel at any time
4. On this channel any day in this time slot

I'm curious about the bugs you mentioned. I don't recall reading about any that are specific to the HDC and I don't expect you to provide a laundry list, but I am interested in what you are experieincing. I know some still have missed/short recordings, particularly Cablevision, but I don't think those are unique/specific to 1.90.

Dave and Russ:

My recording options are:
1. on this channel anyday in this time slot
2. first run only on this channel
3. on this channel this day in this time slot
4. on this channel at anytime

rather than have me re-cap only my issues with the HDC, try this thread (I think it might have been Russ who directed me over there) where a bunch of us have been posting:

snipped from Russ reply upthread:
Here is a link to a thread where that is discussed:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post11118043

There is little advantage to going for the newer model dvr with cable card and depending on what cable provider and what DVR operating system you have it can have major disadvantages (see my post in the other thread).

In any case, I use component cable from the box directly to my display, so the HDMI theory mentioned upthread isn't causing my issues. Russ, if you're contemplating a switch to the HDC to fix some issues you have, I personally would give the HDC back in exchange for the HD in a heartbeat. The ausio/video dropouts I have are so annoying that I'm ready to scream ( and I'm not the screaming type!)

snipped from Russ reply upthread:
[I]Here is a link to a thread where that is discussed:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post11118043
Link is incomplete, but I assume you are talking about the HDC/Comcast thread. If so, based on what I read, it sure looks like it's a CC firmware issue. I'll follow that thread for a bit to see where it goes. If that's not the thread, let me know. Thanks.

EDIT: I did find that post number, but there isn't much info on that thread (Differences between 8300HD and 8300HDC). There is a lot more in the Comcast thread I mentioned.

sorry Dave, I should've checked the link before I posted it.

try this:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11900254#post11900254

I was watching a recording this am, and it seems that the issues (esp the audio dropouts) are much more pronounced. I've tried hard rebooting several times and this am I tried a reboot by using the vol+/- and info. I noticed that recording isn't currently exhibiting the audio dropouts which tells that it's recording ok, but something is happening during playback. If you read the other thread, you'll see that there's on poster who says since his machine updated his cable card firmware, he doesn't have any more audio/video dropout issues. Unfortunely. we're unable see figure out where in the diag screens it lists this new cablecard firmware version so can at least get some reference to the verision he has.

btw, I hesitated to post HDC issues in this thread because I figured it was off topic, so I've been posting in the other one referenced above. It would be great to have some other early adopters of this box (was the first one the 8000HD) over there as well.

The other thing I was going to mention is - do you remember how the early 8000HD would have audio dropout problems when the there was text on the screen? That issue, of course, was fixed a long time ago, but the current audio drop out issue seems similiar to me.

sorry Dave, I should've checked the link before I posted it.

try this:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11900254#post11900254Thanks, that's the thread I found and read.

..............If you read the other thread, you'll see that there's on poster who says since his machine updated his cable card firmware, he doesn't have any more audio/video dropout issues. Unfortunely. we're unable see figure out where in the diag screens it lists this new cablecard firmware version so can at least get some reference to the verision he has.
I saw that too and I thought someone said you had to actually take the card in to get it updated. I seriously doubt that, but that may depend on cableco. Hopefully someone will figure out where to get the viersion info for the cablecard.

btw, I hesitated to post HDC issues in this thread because I figured it was off topic, so I've been posting in the other one referenced above. It would be great to have some other early adopters of this box (was the first one the 8000HD) over there as well.Don't hesitate. vegggas had considered a new thread when he got his HDC, but decided there weren't enough differences to warrant a separate thread at that time. Plus, the problems you are seeing are probably more applicable to SARA than Comcast, so burying them in a Comcast-oriented thread will probably get fewer participants. If the differences become significant enough, the applicable posts can be always be spun off in a new thread. Also, many of us may eventually get an HDC as our current units fail. As we all know, this can happen very suddenly, so it's always good to be up to date on all things 8300.

The other thing I was going to mention is - do you remember how the early 8000HD would have audio dropout problems when the there was text on the screen? That issue, of course, was fixed a long time ago, but the current audio drop out issue seems similiar to me.Never had an 8000, but the software is a common version now and there is no doubt some old code could have found it's way in the 1.90, but SARA doesn't seem to be the real problem if the CC firmware issue can be explored further.

I haven't seen vegggas post in awhile. Maybe he'll see this and comment.

stosh, thanks for the information and the link to the 'Scientific Atlanta 8300HDC and Comcast Problems' thread. It sounds like the problems with the 8300HDC and SARA 1.90 outweigh the new features (new recording option "on this channel this day in this time slot" and "NEW" episode indicator in the IPG) that I would get. I think I will wait until the problems are fixed before I think about exchanging my 8300HD DVRs.

Has anyone been successful dubbing recorded programs from the 8300 to a HDV camera? I've got SARA 1.88.24.1 and see the 8300 recognizes by Canon HV20 in the 1394 Info Menu, but as far as I can tell, no video is flowing over the 1394 connection. I've read some suggest this only works with a DVHS and only compliant devices, but I can't find anything to suggest what a "compliant" device is.

Has anyone been successful dubbing recorded programs from the 8300 to a HDV camera? I've got SARA 1.88.24.1 and see the 8300 recognizes by Canon HV20 in the 1394 Info Menu, but as far as I can tell, no video is flowing over the 1394 connection. I've read some suggest this only works with a DVHS and only compliant devices, but I can't find anything to suggest what a "compliant" device is.Though they deal mostly with PCs, there are a couple of threads where you might find some answers/help. If not, they might be able to steer you to a thread that can, this one isn't really it. Here are some links:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=403695
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=593271

Compliant devices are those that follow the DRM specs. Here is a reference for that:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_rights_management

stosh, thanks for the information and the link to the 'Scientific Atlanta 8300HDC and Comcast Problems' thread. It sounds like the problems with the 8300HDC and SARA 1.90 outweigh the new features (new recording option "on this channel this day in this time slot" and "NEW" episode indicator in the IPG) that I would get. I think I will wait until the problems are fixed before I think about exchanging my 8300HD DVRs.

Russ,

I'm pretty sure that the 8300HD I had before had the "on this channel this day in this time slot" feature. Are you sure its available only in SARA 1.90.xx? If I remember correctly, I posted about this option some pages back in this thread, and, I was not understanding exactly how it works. I don't think it will let you record a show with the same title multiple times a day (if this is the option I'm thinking of). If you wanted to record all episodes of Seinfeld on one day at different times on the same channel, I don't think you can do it.

stosh,

AFAIK, the First Run option has always been there, but you needed the New indicator in the Guide database for that option to be displayed. The display of the New indicator itself in the Guide first showed up in 1.89 and then only if your cableco had the latest (Tribune 2) Guide database.

The problem for Russ is that Houston has not released 1.89 and that leaves him still using 1.88 without those options. He was trying to find out if 1.90 had the same options as 1.89, which it does, and if there were problems that made upgrading to the HDC a hassle, which there are unless it's confirmed that the CC firmware update is readily available and fixes them.

Did I get it right, Russ? :)

From the release notes for 1.89 in first post:
NEW Flag now displayed in IPG (displays on date/time line in Menu and on last line of Program Description). Note: requires Tribune Data Version 2, otherwise all programs may be listed as NEW.

Recording future-dated episodes provides options for those wanting to record episodes other than First Run, but not all rerun episodes:
On this channel this day in this time slot
On this channel at any time
On this channel any day in this time slot

All,

I recently set up my new Onkyo sr705 and am having trouble getting HDMI to work from the 8300. The Bluray and HDDVD player work flawlessly.

It's running 8300 HDMI > Reciever > Sony 50sxrd.

I've been running component since I first came back to Cox, but now I cannot get picture/sound running HDMI (no picture, cable is fine). Is there a setting I have to change (didn't see anything in setup) to initiate the HDMI) For trail and error, I connected the HDMI cable directly from the 8300 to the TV and still could not get picture/sound.

Sorry if this has been covered, didn't find it on my search.

Thanks

Not sure I am posting this in the right spot. Please let me know if I should post elsewhere.

I just got the 8300HD from Comcast with the Comcast Custom DVR 3 Device Remote control. I currently have the channel lock on (Channel +/- on the remote change only the cable box). This works perfect since I never change the channel on my TV and DVD player. However, the “Select/OK” button is part of the channel lock. I need this button to select “Play movie”, etc.

Is there any way to free the “select/ok” button from the channel lock or is there another button that works as the select button? I would prefer not to turn off the channel lock completely.

And yes, I agree: I do need to buy a Harmony

Not sure I am posting this in the right spot. Please let me know if I should post elsewhere.As good a thread as any. I've used a Harmony :) for so long that I don't rememer how the cable remote worked and I'm not sure about the model you mentioned. I suspect Select is tied to the TV because if you only enter 2 numbers (55 instead of 055), you can press Select to change channels immediately instead of waiting. Have you tried the Play button?

Yeah, your setting of pass-through is the problem. You have to use Fixed mode which also speeds up channel switching. I think the box defaults to 1080i Fixed. But most of the time they recycle the boxes and you may not get a new box that has the default settings.

Pass-though has nothing to do with this problem and using fixed reduces the picture quality of 720p channels on a 1080 TV.

To the original poster, ideally you want to set the box so that it knows your TV is 16:9, pass-through, and allows all video modes. However, what exactly you need to set depends on your TV, which you didn't mention in your post. If you tell us what TV you have we could be more specific as to what might be happening and what to set.

Pass-though has nothing to do with this problem and using fixed reduces the picture quality of 720p channels on a 1080 TV.

To the original poster, ideally you want to set the box so that it knows your TV is 16:9, pass-through, and allows all video modes. However, what exactly you need to set depends on your TV, which you didn't mention in your post. If you tell us what TV you have we could be more specific as to what might be happening and what to set.You are absolutely correct that Pass-Through is not the problem, but then neither does using Fixed necessarily reduce PQ for 720p.

I have tested 720p and 1080i extensively with all kinds of programming and channels on my Hitachi and I can see no difference. Therefore, to avoid reformatting during channel changes, I have chosen to use 1080i. However, that may not be the case with another HDTV, another cableco, etc.

I also have no need for the 480i/p Widescreen settings because I prefer that my Hitachi does the stretching for SD channels. Therefore, I have chosen to only use 480i/p Standard.

The best advice is to play with all settings for some time to determine those that work best for you. If you cannot stand reformatting during channel changes, then by all means use Fixed and 702p/1080i. If you think the 8300 strectches SD channels fine, then by all means use the Widescreen formats. If you are a purist or believe 720p looks better for those channels that use 720p, then by all means use both 720p and 1080i. There is no one size fits all here.

And no, Jay, I'm not just responding to your comments. I believe you are trying to tell the OP that we could help determine which of these settings might be best for him if he provided more info and that is very good advice. :)

Dave's explanation is correct. The "on this channel this day in this time slot" feature is available in both SARA 1.89 and SARA 1.90, but it is NOT in SARA 1.88.25.1, the version Houston Comcast is using in the 8300HD DVRs.

Both the "on this channel this day in this time slot" feature and the "on this channel any day in this time slot" feature will only record the show at the time slot you select. If you select the show at another time slot it will override the previous time slot selection. To record all episodes you need to select the "On this channel at any time" feature.
Russ,

I'm pretty sure that the 8300HD I had before had the "on this channel this day in this time slot" feature. Are you sure its available only in SARA 1.90.xx? If I remember correctly, I posted about this option some pages back in this thread, and, I was not understanding exactly how it works. I don't think it will let you record a show with the same title multiple times a day (if this is the option I'm thinking of). If you wanted to record all episodes of Seinfeld on one day at different times on the same channel, I don't think you can do it.

If you have an "Enter" button, you could try that for changing channels.

Not sure I am posting this in the right spot. Please let me know if I should post elsewhere.

I just got the 8300HD from Comcast with the Comcast Custom DVR 3 Device Remote control. I currently have the channel lock on (Channel +/- on the remote change only the cable box). This works perfect since I never change the channel on my TV and DVD player. However, the “Select/OK” button is part of the channel lock. I need this button to select “Play movie”, etc.

Is there any way to free the “select/ok” button from the channel lock or is there another button that works as the select button? I would prefer not to turn off the channel lock completely.

And yes, I agree: I do need to buy a Harmony

Question about audio outputs to multiple sources simultaneously.
I want to connect my 8300 to my (reveiver via digital coax or optical) and (to the tv via HDMI). Ideally i want to output dolby digital to the receiver and any audio to the tv at the same time. But I can't seem to get this to work. If I set audio out -> digital -> hdmi then I only get 2ch audio on the HDMI and coax connection. If I set audio out -> digital -> dolby digital I get no sound on the tv via hdmi but I do get dolby digital on the receiver.

I don't run the hdmi through the receiver because I don't want to have to turn on the reveiver every time I want to watch tv. I don't mind going HDMI and analog audio to the tv but I can't seem to get that to work either...

Any help would be great.... Thanks!

Question about audio outputs to multiple sources simultaneously.
I want to connect my 8300 to my (reveiver via digital coax or optical) and (to the tv via HDMI). Ideally i want to output dolby digital to the receiver and any audio to the tv at the same time. But I can't seem to get this to work. If I set audio out -> digital -> hdmi then I only get 2ch audio on the HDMI and coax connection. If I set audio out -> digital -> dolby digital I get no sound on the tv via hdmi but I do get dolby digital on the receiver.

I don't run the hdmi through the receiver because I don't want to have to turn on the reveiver every time I want to watch tv. I don't mind going HDMI and analog audio to the tv but I can't seem to get that to work either...

Any help would be great.... Thanks!

Are you willing to use plain old analog RCA's to your TV?

Pass-though has nothing to do with this problem and using fixed reduces the picture quality of 720p channels on a 1080 TV.

To the original poster, ideally you want to set the box so that it knows your TV is 16:9, pass-through, and allows all video modes. However, what exactly you need to set depends on your TV, which you didn't mention in your post. If you tell us what TV you have we could be more specific as to what might be happening and what to set.

OP's quest is to get SD channels come in with pillar boxes on the sides all the time. When you use pass-through, SD channels are passed to TV as 480i/p signals. For most TVs with digital connections (HDMI or DVI), these SD signals will be default to stretched on screen. I know this because my TVs behave the same. Use Fix Resolution will ensure all SD channels are displayed in non-stretched mode. As for PQ you mentioned, it is simply not that a big deal. I can't tell any difference flipping through different modes. On old boxes like HD3000, 3250 or 8000, maybe. The HD8300 box is pretty good at scaling the images. Also switch betweeb channels of different resolutions is instant with Fixed mode compared to 4 to 5 seconds of resync with pass-through.

I actually like the PQ of SD scaled to 1080i or 720p in 8300 than passed through to my TV directly because it smoothes out a lot of noises and other defects in original SD signal.

Are you willing to use plain old analog RCA's to your TV?
Yea.... I tried that... Do the rca jacks always work? I have a port on the back of my tv that has a HDMI port and 2 accompanying rca jacks. But I cant seem to get the rca jacks to work. Maybe if my tv senses an analog signal through the HDMI port it turns off the rca ports. :confused:

You are absolutely correct that Pass-Through is not the problem, but then neither does using Fixed necessarily reduce PQ for 720p.

I have tested 720p and 1080i extensively with all kinds of programming and channels on my Hitachi and I can see no difference. Therefore, to avoid reformatting during channel changes, I have chosen to use 1080i. However, that may not be the case with another HDTV, another cableco, etc.

You may not be able to see the difference, but I do. By definition you lose half of your data if you take a 720p channel and force it to be output at 1080i. If you can't see the difference then something is wrong with your eyes, your setup, or you watch nothing that has any fast motion in it.

But yes, you do sacrifice the time when switching channels. However, since the whole purpose of all this nonsense is to get the best possible picture quality, chopping the quality of 720p stations that much because I can't wait a second (literally) seems pretty dumb. We won't even get into what needs to be done to standard def signals to get them to look decent and having the 8300HD do the conversion definitely isn't so hot.

OP's quest is to get SD channels come in with pillar boxes on the sides all the time. When you use pass-through, SD channels are passed to TV as 480i/p signals. For most TVs with digital connections (HDMI or DVI), these SD signals will be default to stretched on screen. I know this because my TVs behave the same. Use Fix Resolution will ensure all SD channels are displayed in non-stretched mode. As for PQ you mentioned, it is simply not that a big deal. I can't tell any difference flipping through different modes. On old boxes like HD3000, 3250 or 8000, maybe. The HD8300 box is pretty good at scaling the images. Also switch betweeb channels of different resolutions is instant with Fixed mode compared to 4 to 5 seconds of resync with pass-through.

I actually like the PQ of SD scaled to 1080i or 720p in 8300 than passed through to my TV directly because it smoothes out a lot of noises and other defects in original SD signal.

OK, so you like blurry images, can't help you there.

As far as the TV goes, I find it hard to believe that most TVs automatically stretch 4:3 material by default, but I don't think I've seen a poll on it. All of the ones I've seen don't stretch unless you tell it too. That's why I asked the poster what TV he has, because it makes a huge difference as to what will work best for him.

You may not be able to see the difference, but I do. By definition you lose half of your data if you take a 720p channel and force it to be output at 1080i.


How are you "losing" data?

Another point: How many "720p" displays are actually out there? Typically, they are 768 or some number other than exactly 720, so there is some conversion going on when a 720p signal is passed directly to a so-called "720" display.

OK, so you like blurry images, can't help you there.


720p upconvert to 1080i does not mean you lost half the resolution. It may lost some data but not much. In fact, early Sony LCD RPTVs are known to internally upconvert eveything to 1080i, then down convert to its native 768p format. The result is a clean image that a lot of ppl like.

As far as the TV goes, I find it hard to believe that most TVs automatically stretch 4:3 material by default, but I don't think I've seen a poll on it. All of the ones I've seen don't stretch unless you tell it too. That's why I asked the poster what TV he has, because it makes a huge difference as to what will work best for him.

Most TVs work fine with analog inputs because there is a flag in the analog signal to tell TV what native aspect ratio the TV is getting. That's how anamorphic DVDs work their magic automatically. However, there is no such flag defined in digital connection. As a result, a lot of TVs will automatically take it as full-screen.

You may not be able to see the difference, but I do. By definition you lose half of your data if you take a 720p channel and force it to be output at 1080i. If you can't see the difference then something is wrong with your eyes, your setup, or you watch nothing that has any fast motion in it.Ok, if you want to be that way, you know where you can go, there is absolutely no reason to be rude. If you can see a difference on your setup, fine, but that doesn't mean everyone else can and that doesn't mean there is anything wrong with their eyes, setup, or anything else. That's why there are different resolutions and different options in the first place. If one was right for everyone, we'd only have 720p and Fixed to begin with.

OP's quest is to get SD channels come in with pillar boxes on the sides all the time. When you use pass-through, SD channels are passed to TV as 480i/p signals. For most TVs with digital connections (HDMI or DVI), these SD signals will be default to stretched on screen. I know this because my TVs behave the same. Use Fix Resolution will ensure all SD channels are displayed in non-stretched mode.As far as it goes, you are correct. I guess I missed the part about wanting bars on the sides and HDMI causing some HDTVs to automatically stretch SD images, though that seems kind of weird to me.
As for PQ you mentioned, it is simply not that a big deal. I can't tell any difference flipping through different modes. On old boxes like HD3000, 3250 or 8000, maybe. The HD8300 box is pretty good at scaling the images.Guess your eyes and setup are as bad as mine. :)

Most TVs work fine with analog inputs because there is a flag in the analog signal to tell TV what native aspect ratio the TV is getting. That's how anamorphic DVDs work their magic automatically. However, there is no such flag defined in digital connection. As a result, a lot of TVs will automatically take it as full-screen.I don't believe it is true that analog inputs have a aspect ratio tag (if there is please point to an authoritative source). Typically, 16:9 TV's can be set to recognize a 480p signal as wide screen, so a 480i signal will be rendered as 4:3 and a 480p as 16:9. DVD's, on the other hand, do have a aspect ration flag in the bit stream, and many (but not all) DVD players will recognize that bit and send out an "adjusted" video signal (meaning that they will generate side pillars for 4:3 material "knowing" that the TV is 16:9 and will respond that way to progressive signals.

Most TVs today automatically recognize 720p or 1080i material as 16:9 and will only reproduce it only that way.

I don't believe it is true that analog inputs have a aspect ratio tag (if there is please point to an authoritative source). Typically, 16:9 TV's can be set to recognize a 480p signal as wide screen, so a 480i signal will be rendered as 4:3 and a 480p as 16:9. DVD's, on the other hand, do have a aspect ration flag in the bit stream, and many (but not all) DVD players will recognize that bit and send out an "adjusted" video signal (meaning that they will generate side pillars for 4:3 material "knowing" that the TV is 16:9 and will respond that way to progressive signals.

Most TVs today automatically recognize 720p or 1080i material as 16:9 and will only reproduce it only that way.



You're completely wrong on your theory. Non-upconverting DVD players does not add side bars, EVER. On my old Panny LCD RPTV, the flag is called ID-1 flag and can be set to ignore or auto. The default is auto. When a normal non-upconverting DVD player connected to the TV, it sends out normal 4:3 480i or 480p. It does not add side bars or send out special wide screen format. Instead, it signals ID-1 flag to indicate the source matereial is 4:3, 16:9 or letter-box. A properly designed TVs like most name brands can automatically adjust aspect ratio to 4:3, 16:9 or ZOOM accordingly.

EDIT: the feature is commonly called ID-1 or WSS or AutoWide Detection. The HD8300 itself also supports it in its S-Video output when you turn to a HD station last time I checked.

You're completely wrong on your theoryIf so, please provide a link to an authoritative source as I originally requested:

I don't believe it is true that analog inputs have a aspect ratio tag (if there is please point to an authoritative source). As it stands it, unfortunately, is your theory vs mine. I'd certainly would like to get it out of that (theory) category. A quick Google search on ID-1 Flag in Television related to Aspect Ratio, hasn't yielded any applicable information (at least in the first 4 pages of results).

Like I posted above, go google for ID-1, WSS or AutoWide Detection. And you're welcome to visit my house anytime so that I can demonstrate to you how this works on my TV:)

Mine is not theory but reality. Yours is.

... ID-1 or WSS or AutoWide Detection ...The main thing I found was advertisements for Sony TV with this blurb in the product description "Auto Wide: (ID-1 & WSS Detection)".

But these documents seem to indicate WSS is a standard (ITU-R BT.1119-1/ETSI.EN.300294) in PAL format but not in NTSC: analog.com 10-Bit, 4× Oversampling SDTV Video Decoder ADV7180 (http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/Data_Sheets/ADV7180.pdf) analog.com ADV7188 Multiformat SDTV Video Decoder with Fast Switch Overlay (http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/Data_Sheets/517583933ADV7188_0.pdf) pctuner.ru ADV7180 10-Bit, 4x Oversampling SDTV Video Decoder Data Sheet (Rev. 0) (http://www.pctuner.ru/files/pdf/analog_devices_adv7081.pdf)

No idea what ID-1 (EIAJ, CPX1024) is, but here are some chips to detect it: http://www.ortodoxism.ro/datasheets/sony/a6800270.pdf digchips.com (subscription?) Details and datasheet on part: CXD2053AM (http://www.digchips.com/datasheets/parts/datasheet/453/CXD2053AM.php) digchip.com (subscription?) Details and datasheet on part: CXD2053AS (http://www.digchip.com/datasheets/parts/datasheet/453/CXD2053AS.php) digchip.com (subscription?) Details and datasheet on part: CXD2053 (http://www.digchip.com/datasheets/parts/datasheet/000/CXD2053.php)Although I only looked at the first one, it looks like it is also labeled VB-ID and signals something to letterbox, normal or full mode?

v/r,
C-F

The main thing I found was advertisements for Sony TV with this blurb in the product description "Auto Wide: (ID-1 & WSS Detection)".Thanks C-F, that takes it out of the theory department. :o I don't know how much this really is being used these days. My most recent additions don't seem to work that way at all. I note that there is no date on the Sony data sheet, and there is an advisory on it to check for availability.

And you're welcome to visit my house anytime so that I can demonstrate to you how this works on my TV:)Well C-F provided the sort of info that I was looking for.

PS: How can one visit your house, when you won't tell folks where you are located?:rolleyes:

PS: How can one visit your house, when you won't tell folks where you are located?:rolleyes:He does, El Paso. I was just there 2 weeks ago visiting my grandkids and will be there again in 6-12 weeks. My SIL is going through the Sgt Major's Academy out at Biggs Field.

BTW, TWC in El Paso really sucks. They have the 1.89 software, but they don't have the right guide database to enable the latest recording options.

He does, El Paso. I was just there 2 weeks ago visiting my grandkids and will be there again in 6-12 weeks. My SIL is going through the Sgt Major's Academy out at Biggs Field.

BTW, TWC in El Paso really sucks. They have the 1.89 software, but they don't have the right guide database to enable the latest recording options.

I have the same issue with Charter, got the 1.89 software but apparently not the right guide. Any info why some cable cos do this?

How are you "losing" data?

Another point: How many "720p" displays are actually out there? Typically, they are 768 or some number other than exactly 720, so there is some conversion going on when a 720p signal is passed directly to a so-called "720" display.

A 720p display generally doesn't have a problem. With those odd-ball resolution 720p displays you basically lose 1:1 pixel mapping, so some scaling is done. No data is lost, just some added. 1080i channels are simply scaled to to the odd-ball resolution, so they end up taking advantage of the extra pixels on the odd-ball resolution displays.

When you go from 720p to 1080i to display on a 1080p display, you lose half your data. First, you have your box convert from 720p to 1080i. First it does 720p->1080p, which is no problem. But because it's outputting 1080i, it needs to interlace the signal. Well, the interlaced signal only sends 540 lines of data out in every frame, thus only half the data that you started with gets sent out for every frame.

Then when the TV gets your 1080i signal, it converts it back to 1080p, but there's no way for it to recover the half of the data you lost. So on each frame half of the scan lines don't get updated even though you had the data to start with in the original 720p signal. For images that don't change much, or movies that were originally 24 frames per second, you won't notice, but with fast moving video, like a football game, it's very visible. Of course, if you are not getting a high quality picture to start with (for whatever reason), you probably won't notice this problem either.

The these boxes could output 1080p directly, then setting it to 1080p fixed wouldn't automatically cause a problem, it would be as good as the processing chip they are using is.

720p upconvert to 1080i does not mean you lost half the resolution. It may lost some data but not much.

By definition you lose half your data. See the previous post. That is "much".

Ok, if you want to be that way, you know where you can go, there is absolutely no reason to be rude. If you can see a difference on your setup, fine, but that doesn't mean everyone else can and that doesn't mean there is anything wrong with their eyes, setup, or anything else. That's why there are different resolutions and different options in the first place. If one was right for everyone, we'd only have 720p and Fixed to begin with.

Sorry if you consider the truth to be rude. You are losing half your data, if you can't notice that then you are not getting the benefit of using all the data when you have it. Therefore something is wrong.

If you have a 1080p display and set your box for 1080i fixed output you are sacrificing picture quality on the 720p stations. If you don't care, great, but don't tell other people that it doesn't happen. Let them decide for themselves if its important to them.

If everything was right, it would all be fixed 1080p.

By definition you lose half your data. See the previous post. That is "much".


I see. You're one of those theory on paper types.

720p is good at preserve detail on fast moving scenes because of its progressive nature. 1080i is good at preserve static details on each frame because of its higher resolution. If you convert 720p to 1080i, all you lost is half of the frames that are different than previous. Specifically, if it is all fast moving sequence, you will lost half of them at worst. Basically, your get from 720p/60 to 720p/30.

However, in reality, movies and videos aren't all fast moving scenes and compound that problem with limited bandwidth each broadcast channels have (19mbps max for OTA). The Mpeg2 compression will throw a lot of those extra details between frames out in order to keep the stream within the bandwidth limit. Live events are even worse because stations have to use Contant Bit Rate (CBR) instead of VBR which requires two-pass encoding that can't be done on live broadcasting. Hence, in reality, the delta you throw away isn't much because of the limit on the compression. In fact, on fast moving scene/actions, you mostly only see macro blocking anyway regardless what resolution you set to. Hence, you won't notice a big difference.

So DoubleDAZ, we don't have eye sight problem:) It's Jay who seeing things that aren't there in the first place :)

Now, if you compare UNCOMPRESSED 720p convert to 1080i, I'd agree with you. But we're not talking about that at all. The only UMCOMPRESSED HD source is game console or HPTC and there is no reason for such conversion.

I have the same issue with Charter, got the 1.89 software but apparently not the right guide. Any info why some cable cos do this?When it comes to TWC, I can only assume it's because they expect to move everyone to Navigator, so they just aren't spending the money on a new guide, at least in some markets. I have no idea about Charter, but an email might get you a response.

Sorry if you consider the truth to be rude.I don't consider the truth to be rude. I consider "If you can't see the difference then something is wrong with your eyes, your setup, or you watch nothing that has any fast motion in it" to be rude. I told you I did extensive tests ON MY SETUP, including fast-motion, and like MANY others, I can't see a difference to warrant enabling both 720p and 1080i. I don't care that you can see a difference on YOUR SETUP or that you think you know all there is to know about 720p vs 1080i.

You are losing half your data, if you can't notice that then you are not getting the benefit of using all the data when you have it. Therefore something is wrong.I think I know what you are saying, but you sure don't know how to say it very well. There are plenty of sites that completely, and correctly, explain the 720p to 1080i conversion and vice versa without your oversimplified attempt.

If you have a 1080p display and set your box for 1080i fixed output you are sacrificing picture quality on the 720p stations. If you don't care, great, but don't tell other people that it doesn't happen. Let them decide for themselves if its important to them.Where have you been? That is exactly what I suggested you do instead of making blanket statements that are completely worthless. I didn't tell anyone there isn't a difference, I simply stated that I can't see one on my setup. If you have a 1080p HTDV and can see a difference, fine, use 720p, but don't tell everyone they have to see a difference or something is wrong with them.

If everything was right, it would all be fixed 1080p.Oh? So in your little world 1080p is the best that will be done? Personally, I'm holding out for holographic TV.

So DoubleDAZ, we don't have eye sight problem:) It's Jay who seeing things that aren't there in the first place :)
No, we don't have an eye-sight problem, just maybe don't have the latest 1080p HDTV that Jay does. It would be really funny if Jay has DirecTV and is viewing HDLite, which doesn't even do the full 1920x1080 in the first place. :)

And then there are those who believe SD is good enough for the masses. After all, it's better than analog, right? Didn't some bigwig content provider say he couldn't see the difference between SD and HD on his setup, perhaps an EDTV?

Look, I don't have a problem with what Jay is trying to say, but he sure doesn't make any points taking personal potshots at people who don't see a difference or don't agree with his statements. There is absolutely no doubt there is a difference between 720p and 1080i, but that is only on paper and many HDTVs simply don't reflect the difference enough to be seen by everyone. Heck, many HDTVs don't even resolve the full 1920x1080 to begin with, so there should be absolutely no argument that differences between 720p and 1080i, especially after passing through an HD receiver, can't be seen by everyone on every HDTV.

A 720p display generally doesn't have a problem. With those odd-ball resolution 720p displays you basically lose 1:1 pixel mapping, so some scaling is done. No data is lost, just some added. 1080i channels are simply scaled to to the odd-ball resolution, so they end up taking advantage of the extra pixels on the odd-ball resolution displays.

When you go from 720p to 1080i to display on a 1080p display, you lose half your data. First, you have your box convert from 720p to 1080i. First it does 720p->1080p, which is no problem. But because it's outputting 1080i, it needs to interlace the signal. Well, the interlaced signal only sends 540 lines of data out in every frame, thus only half the data that you started with gets sent out for every frame.

Then when the TV gets your 1080i signal, it converts it back to 1080p, but there's no way for it to recover the half of the data you lost. So on each frame half of the scan lines don't get updated even though you had the data to start with in the original 720p signal. For images that don't change much, or movies that were originally 24 frames per second, you won't notice, but with fast moving video, like a football game, it's very visible. Of course, if you are not getting a high quality picture to start with (for whatever reason), you probably won't notice this problem either.

The these boxes could output 1080p directly, then setting it to 1080p fixed wouldn't automatically cause a problem, it would be as good as the processing chip they are using is.

My DLP projector is 720P, but my 8300 HD is outputting 1080i. When I changed it to 720P, it was a nightmare. I had to set my format to fixed, so it wouldn't have to setup the picture every time I changed the channel. I did not notice any improvement in the pq. I wish I could have done it like an a/b switch. I reset it back to 1080i, so I wouldn't have any format issues.

Of course, if you are not getting a high quality picture to start with (for whatever reason), you probably won't notice this problem either.Oh, you mean like a 720p station using only 12 Mbps or a 1080i station only using 15 Mbps? If we were talking about such stations each using the full 19.x Mbps, your theory would probably hold true for most, if not all, HDTVs. However, this is the real world. That's why everyone has to try all the formats for themselves and make their own decisions, which is exactly what I suggested in my first response.

We all know there are techincal differences between 720p and 1080i. The only point of contention seems to be whether or not everyone can see them on their setups and if there is something wrong with those who can't. I would never be so brazen as to say something was wrong with you if you couldn't see something that I could. Too bad you can't be as respectful of others and still make your point. :(

I did not notice any improvement in the pq.Well, that makes at least 3 of us that are just plain wrong. :)

The recent discussions about 720p - 1080i - 1080p have sparked a question.

I have a Sony KDS-55A2000 connected at 1080i by Component to my 8300HD. I recently switched to Component from the HDMI (1080p) connection because I added a Toshiba HD-DVD player. This happened a little after the switch from TWC to Comcast, and I now I notice a lot more pixelation on HD shows that have a lot of action scenes. I thought at first this was due to Comcast compressing their HD signals even more to squeeze in all these new HD channels, but now I'm wondering if it could be the switch from using the 1080p input to the 1080i input (even though I know the 8300HD only outputs up to 1080i). I have the KDS-55A2000 set to display the picture in whatever resolution it is broadcast in.

Could the increased pixelation be due to the change in input type or is my original surmise correct in blaming Comcast?
mjp

No. Pixelation is the result of not enough bandwidth in HD compression stream, i.e. the common artifacts of MPEG2 compression. Just to remember Blu Ray discs that use MPEG2 compression need something around 50 mbps bit rate to achieve artifact free HD playback. ATSC standard only allocates 19mbps max for each broadcasting channel. And most TV stations use some of it to broadcast sub-channels. It's rare to see any station broadcast at full 19mbps. On top of that cable and sat provider add another layer of squzing the bandwidth in order to add more channels to their offerings. The end result is what DoubleDAZ posted above. And artifacts are very common.

If you see more artifacts from component that HDMI on the same material, it could be your TV's component inputs have better PQ than your HDMI. Sounds crazy but Sony are known to simply convert digital inputs to analog in some of its TVs so that it can be processed in the same video processing pipe line as other analog inputs to save $$.

emjay0,

One way to check is to reconnect the Component and see what things look like.

To know if it's Comcast compressing their HD signals, you'd have to get a readout of the average bitrate for those channels before the switch from TWC and the addition of new channels. This is often done by someone with capture hardware/software and something called TSReader.

Unless the artifacting is spread across all channels, it could also be that the affected channels began multicasting around the time of the switch to Comcast, thereby lowering the bitrate for the HD channel.

emjay0,

One way to check is to reconnect the Component and see what things look like.

To know if it's Comcast compressing their HD signals, you'd have to get a readout of the average bitrate for those channels before the switch from TWC and the addition of new channels. This is often done by someone with capture hardware/software and something called TSReader.

Unless the artifacting is spread across all channels, it could also be that the affected channels began multicasting around the time of the switch to Comcast, thereby lowering the bitrate for the HD channel.One way to check for added compression by Comcast is to see how many HD channels that they are putting on a QAM. You can do this in the diagnostic screens. A single QAM channel has the capacity for 38Mbps. If the cable company only puts 2HD channels there, then they are likely not doing any additional compression. If there are 3 HD channels there, then it is pretty clear that they are doing additional compression - unless, the originating source is limiting it in the first place.

There are also methods (Dave helped me a bit with this earlier in the year) for measuring the AVERAGE bit rate by noting the change in DVR hard drive as storage as you erase a program.

I see. You're one of those theory on paper types.

720p is good at preserve detail on fast moving scenes because of its progressive nature. 1080i is good at preserve static details on each frame because of its higher resolution. If you convert 720p to 1080i, all you lost is half of the frames that are different than previous. Specifically, if it is all fast moving sequence, you will lost half of them at worst. Basically, your get from 720p/60 to 720p/30.

However, in reality, movies and videos aren't all fast moving scenes and compound that problem with limited bandwidth each broadcast channels have (19mbps max for OTA). The Mpeg2 compression will throw a lot of those extra details between frames out in order to keep the stream within the bandwidth limit. Live events are even worse because stations have to use Contant Bit Rate (CBR) instead of VBR which requires two-pass encoding that can't be done on live broadcasting. Hence, in reality, the delta you throw away isn't much because of the limit on the compression. In fact, on fast moving scene/actions, you mostly only see macro blocking anyway regardless what resolution you set to. Hence, you won't notice a big difference.

So DoubleDAZ, we don't have eye sight problem:) It's Jay who seeing things that aren't there in the first place :)

Now, if you compare UNCOMPRESSED 720p convert to 1080i, I'd agree with you. But we're not talking about that at all. The only UMCOMPRESSED HD source is game console or HPTC and there is no reason for such conversion.

Your pretty good at twisting things just enough to prove that 1 = 0. The problem with the whole argument is that all that no matter what compression is done, you are cutting the resulting data in half. The resulting impact on the picture is completely different than the blocking you are talking about. National broadcasts on ABC/ESPN are pretty good quality and the fast motion looks very impressive, I'm not going to mess that up. THAT'S THE WHOLE DAMN REASON THESE STATIONS CHOSE 720p TO BEGIN WITH!

I don't consider the truth to be rude. I consider "If you can't see the difference then something is wrong with your eyes, your setup, or you watch nothing that has any fast motion in it" to be rude. I told you I did extensive tests ON MY SETUP, including fast-motion, and like MANY others, I can't see a difference to warrant enabling both 720p and 1080i. I don't care that you can see a difference on YOUR SETUP or that you think you know all there is to know about 720p vs 1080i.

I think I know what you are saying, but you sure don't know how to say it very well. There are plenty of sites that completely, and correctly, explain the 720p to 1080i conversion and vice versa without your oversimplified attempt.

Where have you been? That is exactly what I suggested you do instead of making blanket statements that are completely worthless. I didn't tell anyone there isn't a difference, I simply stated that I can't see one on my setup. If you have a 1080p HTDV and can see a difference, fine, use 720p, but don't tell everyone they have to see a difference or something is wrong with them.

Oh? So in your little world 1080p is the best that will be done? Personally, I'm holding out for holographic TV.

Speaking of rude. "think I know", "oversimplified", "little world"???? You know what you can do with your comments? It's funny how these comments usually come from the people they really apply to.

You and Foxbat121 are trying to tell people what to do without explaining anything to them. Great, wonderful, with your lousy setup you can't see the difference. Both of you keep telling people to set their boxed to fixed without any regard as to whether or not it will affect what they see. The you try to discount the explanation. Thanks for helping all these companies deliver their product to the uninformed, uncaring consumer.

All you had to do was tell people that you don't notice the difference on your setup but beware that it may affect the picture quality of 720p broadcast and your TV (or AVR) may do a better job up upscaling standard def channels. Is that really to much to ask?

I stand by the statement that if you can't see the difference there is something wrong with your eyes, your setup, or you watch nothing that has any fast motion in it. The definition of "wrong" being anything that that is preventing you from getting the full benefit of the best picture quality you can get, including stuff you may no control over like your cable company deciding you really don't need that much bandwidth for an HD station.

PS: For foxbat, no, I stopped using Directv when I went to high def for exactly that reason (and that a tree would have to come down for me to get line of sight to some of their high-def satellites).

My DLP projector is 720P, but my 8300 HD is outputting 1080i. When I changed it to 720P, it was a nightmare. I had to set my format to fixed, so it wouldn't have to setup the picture every time I changed the channel. I did not notice any improvement in the pq. I wish I could have done it like an a/b switch. I reset it back to 1080i, so I wouldn't have any format issues.

I'm a bit confused as to what was causing your "nightmare". If you have a true 720p TV (not one with a slightly higher resolution), your "ideal" setting should be a fixed 720p output. That way the 720p stations are completely untouched and the 1080i stations just get scaled down to 720p.

If your projector has a higher resolution than 720p, you would have to see if you notice a difference on 1080i channels if you had the box output 720p (and the TV upscale it slightly) vs having it output 1080i and just having the TV scale it.

I apologize if this was covered, but I can not seem to find an answer. When recording, i realized the recording stopped. It said that there was no more space for recordings. I deleted a lot of previous recordings, and freed up a lot of space, currntly 38% used. The problem now is that when something records, as soon as it is over, it no longer appears in my recorded list. As far as I can tell, I am doing everything correctly. I have been using the standard 8300 for a few years, with no issues, but just recently switched to the HD model, and this is happening just a few weeks in. Any suggestions? Am I mising something??

I apologize if this was covered, but I can not seem to find an answer. When recording, i realized the recording stopped. It said that there was no more space for recordings. I deleted a lot of previous recordings, and freed up a lot of space, currntly 38% used. The problem now is that when something records, as soon as it is over, it no longer appears in my recorded list. As far as I can tell, I am doing everything correctly. I have been using the standard 8300 for a few years, with no issues, but just recently switched to the HD model, and this is happening just a few weeks in. Any suggestions? Am I mising something??

Your missing a DVR with good software in it. Welcome to the club.

I had plenty of problems with the 8300, but this one (yet). Did you try rebooting it (just pull the plug for a minute and then plug it back in and let it reboot). The next step would be to watch everything you have saved then reformat the drive (instruction are in the first post of this thread).

Once question, when it is "recording" the show that doesn't appear afterwards, is the recording light on the front lit? I have hit a bug where it randomly just doesn't record something even though the on-screen info says it is. When this happens, the recording light does not light. But this seems to be a random event whereas yours seems to be for everything.

The red light is on. I tried to power it off and on, but just for a few minutes. Still had the issue. I left it unplugged for the day, so I will check shortly to see if that helped. If not, time to catch up on some recordings, and start over. Thanks for the input. I will let you know how I make out.

Your pretty good at twisting things just enough to prove that 1 = 0. The problem with the whole argument is that all that no matter what compression is done, you are cutting the resulting data in half. The resulting impact on the picture is completely different than the blocking you are talking about. National broadcasts on ABC/ESPN are pretty good quality and the fast motion looks very impressive, I'm not going to mess that up. THAT'S THE WHOLE DAMN REASON THESE STATIONS CHOSE 720p TO BEGIN WITH!


One simple example: If the station put up a static photo at 720p/60, now I upscale to 1080i and down scale back to 720p/30. What did I missing? All I have to say to you is that you're splitting hairs and with no real life experience to back up to your claim of "watching blured pictures". I've been through one 720p LCD flat panel, one 720p LCD RP and now 1080p DLP TV, no noticeable PQ degradation what so ever between pass-through and fixed 1080i.

You and Foxbat121 are trying to tell people what to do without explaining anything to them. Great, wonderful, with your lousy setup you can't see the difference. Both of you keep telling people to set their boxed to fixed without any regard as to whether or not it will affect what they see.You, my friend, are the one who needs to get your eyes checked. I have never in my life, here or in any HDTV forum, ever suggested anyone use Fixed, or not use 720p, or anything else you want to accuse me of. All I've ever said is that everyone should try every setting and see what works for them, unlike you who keeps telling them to use 720p for 720p channels whether or not they can see a difference and whether or not they want to watch the constant reformatting as they scan through channels.

And while I don't pretend to be the expert you think you are, I've at least indicated there are plenty of sites that explain things in much more detail and much more accurately than you do.

I suggest you look at the first post here and pay close attention to who the author is.

And with that, don't bother addressing any more posts toward me, they will be ignored.

if somebody can provide me step by step instructions on how to transfer from my SA 8300HD to my laptop. That is, if you won't do it out of the kindness of your heart. What I'm working with:

1.SA 8300HD from Time Warner(IN NYC) that runs Passport
2.Dell XPS laptop with Vista Home Premium

I own a 320GB FreeAgent Pro hard drive that I use for video editing, but almost all of the space on it is available. Before reading this forum, I didn't even know I could use it to store more programs from my DVR! I'm still unsure how, though. I like to think I'm smart, but I'm not, so pleeease help if you can. Please. :o

if somebody can provide me step by step instructions on how to transfer from my SA 8300HD to my laptop. That is, if you won't do it out of the kindness of your heart.It's not a matter of kindness, it's a matter that it is very difficult to do - if it can be done at all. There is an entire AVS thread devoted to transferring programs via Firewire (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=593271). Perhaps posting your plea there will get results.

I own a 320GB FreeAgent Pro hard drive that I use for video editing, but almost all of the space on it is available. Before reading this forum, I didn't even know I could use it to store more programs from my DVR! I'm still unsure how, though.There is also the SATA thread, see the first post here for the link.

I'm a bit confused as to what was causing your "nightmare". If you have a true 720p TV (not one with a slightly higher resolution), your "ideal" setting should be a fixed 720p output. That way the 720p stations are completely untouched and the 1080i stations just get scaled down to 720p.

If your projector has a higher resolution than 720p, you would have to see if you notice a difference on 1080i channels if you had the box output 720p (and the TV upscale it slightly) vs having it output 1080i and just having the TV scale it.
I'm confused as well. My IF-7200 is a well documented 720P pj, and it should operate better at that res.
Maybe I did something wrong when I changed the format. I followed these directions, and pressed vol down. At 1080i I can leave the format(aspect) at pass through, but at 720P I have to use a fixed format :(
Change Default Format. Default format can be changed without going through Setup Wizard:

* Press/hold Select until Mail LED lights.
* Press Vol Down (-) button - display changes to "HdSr" (HD Screen Resolution)
* Press Ch Up (+) for 480i
* Press Ch Down (-) for 480p
* Press Vol Down (-) for 720p
* Press Vol Up (+) for 1080i

I'm confused as well. My IF-7200 is a well documented 720P pj, and it should operate better at that res.
Maybe I did something wrong when I changed the format. I followed these directions, and pressed vol down. At 1080i I can leave the format(aspect) at pass through, but at 720P I have to use a fixed format :(What exactly happens that you don't like when you use 720p with Pass-Through?

What exactly happens that you don't like when you use 720p with Pass-Through?
When I changed channels the pj would have to reacquire the signal. The picture would blank for at least 5 seconds while it completed setting up. I'm a little uncertain about the format change procedure. Is it just 1 format I'm setting (as opposed to allowing multiple formats as needed)?
iow When I pressed vol down, I changed the 8300HD to output 720P no matter what the original format was? If that is the case then my pj should have been more compatible with that then the 1080i it is now downresing.

2weeks,

When you have 720p and 1080i both enabled and use Pass-Through, the unit has to reformat as you go from a 720p channel to a 1080i channel and vice versa. The same reformt happens if you enable 480i or 480p for the SD channels. This is normal operation and the only way to stop it is to select a single format.

However, in doing so, and depending on your setup, you make see a reduction in PQ for those channels that use the other format. In other words, if you set the unit to 720p, you may not be satisfied with the PQ for all the 1080i channels. If you use 1080i instead, you may not be happy with the PQ for all the 720p channels. That is why some of us recommend you test all settings and settle on the ones that work for you.

I happen to use 480i, 480p, and 1080i with Pass-Through. I see the reformat when I tune between HD and SD channels, but it is rare enough for me that is doesn't bother me. I tried adding 720p, but I didn't see enough of a PQ difference to warrant putting up with the reformat delay when tuning between the 720p and 1080i channels, which I do often, to warrant enabling it. Others don't like any reformat, so they use either 720p or 1080i and Fixed. It's totally an individual perference. Even if you can see a difference in PQ when selecting 720p over 1080i, if you don't like the reformat process, the PQ difference may not be enough to warrant enabling both, totally up to you.

I'm confused as well. My IF-7200 is a well documented 720P pj, and it should operate better at that res.
Maybe I did something wrong when I changed the format. I followed these directions, and pressed vol down. At 1080i I can leave the format(aspect) at pass through, but at 720P I have to use a fixed format :(

Yes, you have a true 720p projector, so your best bet is to set the output for 720p fixed unless you are using an external video processor (or one as part of an AVR).

Perhaps you need to go back through the setup wizard to get everything to work right. Quirky behavior of this 8300 no longer surprises me, it's expected.

One simple example: If the station put up a static photo at 720p/60, now I upscale to 1080i and down scale back to 720p/30. What did I missing? All I have to say to you is that you're splitting hairs and with no real life experience to back up to your claim of "watching blured pictures". I've been through one 720p LCD flat panel, one 720p LCD RP and now 1080p DLP TV, no noticeable PQ degradation what so ever between pass-through and fixed 1080i.

Agreed, a fixed picture will show no difference. That's why I specifically said fast motion video. I notice it during mostly football games, auto racing and somewhat during baseball games (the motion of the ball itself). I also don't like the DLPs because I can see all the rainbows, which is even more bothersome to me than the 720p issue, so if that doesn't bother you it doesn't surprise me that you wouldn't notice the 720p degradation (or perhaps you do see the rainbows but just live with it).

Don't see how "real life experience" means anything on here because you can't actually "show" the experience on the forum.

Perhaps the real solution to all this is if all these stupid devices could handle switching resolutions a lot faster. With a digital connection it seems pretty sad that they can't do a better job of it.

You, my friend, are the one who needs to get your eyes checked. I have never in my life, here or in any HDTV forum, ever suggested anyone use Fixed, or not use 720p, or anything else you want to accuse me of. All I've ever said is that everyone should try every setting and see what works for them, unlike you who keeps telling them to use 720p for 720p channels whether or not they can see a difference and whether or not they want to watch the constant reformatting as they scan through channels.

And while I don't pretend to be the expert you think you are, I've at least indicated there are plenty of sites that explain things in much more detail and much more accurately than you do.

I suggest you look at the first post here and pay close attention to who the author is.

And with that, don't bother addressing any more posts toward me, they will be ignored.

No, you didn't tell people to used fixed (other people have), what you did is misinterpret the my use of the word "wrong" and decided to act like an %^! in response. I'm sure that having the first post in the 8300HD thread on AVS gives you the ability to know who is an expert and who isn't. So feel free to ignore my posts and feel free to keep your BS attitude to yourself.

Agreed, a fixed picture will show no difference. That's why I specifically said fast motion video.

So where is your "lost half the data" theory? ANd no, you didn't mention fast motion in this quote:
By definition you lose half your data. See the previous post. That is "much".


How fast is too fast that you started losing significant amount of data and PQ lose is very noticeable?

And with the common bandwidth limit of around 14~16 mbps, how fast the motion can really be without going to macro blocking?

I also don't like the DLPs because I can see all the rainbows, which is even more bothersome to me than the 720p issue, so if that doesn't bother you it doesn't surprise me that you wouldn't notice the 720p degradation (or perhaps you do see the rainbows but just live with it).

You do know only 20% of ppl see rainbows. It doesn't imply other 80% just have bad eye sights. They are totally different thing. And I do see rainbows in certain conditions. But that has nothing to do what we discuss here. DLP isn't my choice but that's entirely different story (search RPTV forums and you will know why I ended up with a DLP).

Foxbat121,

I leave it to you to continue the "discussion" with the "expert", I give up. Unfortunately, that might mean his misinformation and poor explanations become 'fact", but so be it. It's a good thing 80% of us have bad eyesight so we can use the setups we prefer. :)

Usually when your oponent constantly shifting target/topic, you know this debate goes nowhere. I had enough and will no longer respond to his mis-guided posts. Hope this thread can go back to regular discussion of SA8300HD.

2weeks,

When you have 720p and 1080i both enabled and use Pass-Through, the unit has to reformat as you go from a 720p channel to a 1080i channel and vice versa...
I suspected that might be the case. But I don't know how to disable 1080i. Help please. I'd like to do pass through on all formats, because my pj has an expensive scaler. But if it's gonna take that long to setup the picture, then I'll stick with fixed:(

I suspected that might be the case. But I don't know how to disable 1080i. Help please. I'd like to do pass through on all formats, because my pj has an expensive scaler. But if it's gonna take that long to setup the picture, then I'll stick with fixed:(It's been awhile, but I believe it's turn off the box, press INFO + GUIDE, and then follow the on-screen directions. The complete instructions are on page 3 in the latest SA8300HD User's Guide. You can download that from the Scientific Atlanta website, link is in first post.

Are the composite audio outputs active if the digital optical is connected to a receiver? We have a wireless speaker we use outside and around the house. The transmitter is connected to one of the audio outs on the receiver. I had the TV audio out connected to the receiver in order to listen to Music Choice/cable programs on the wireless speaker. With our new TV set-up, it isn't practical to do this. I wanted to see if I can run stereo audio cables from the SA8300HD (in addition to the digital optical) to the receiver which will hopefully allow us to listen to CDs and what is on cable.

I looked in the User's Guide but couldn't find the answer.

Are the composite audio outputs active if the digital optical is connected to a receiver? We have a wireless speaker we use outside and around the house. The transmitter is connected to one of the audio outs on the receiver. I had the TV audio out connected to the receiver in order to listen to Music Choice/cable programs on the wireless speaker. With our new TV set-up, it isn't practical to do this. I wanted to see if I can run stereo audio cables from the SA8300HD (in addition to the digital optical) to the receiver which will hopefully allow us to listen to CDs and what is on cable.Last time I checked they were, but then so were Component and HDMI at one time. You never know what changes they make in software until someone complains about the change. but I don't recall seeing anything in this area. I used to have both connected, and they both worked, but have since rewired things.

Thanks Dave; I'll give it a try.

Last time I checked they were, but then so were Component and HDMI at one time. You never know what changes they make in software until someone complains about the change. but I don't recall seeing anything in this area. I used to have both connected, and they both worked, but have since rewired things.I don't think that the 8300 has any way of "knowing" that the digital audio out is being used, so it couldn't make a decision to shut off the analog outputs.

HDMI, on the other hand, is quite different as there are two way communications between the 8300 and the TV (one of the communications being about audio).

I don't think that the 8300 has any way of "knowing" that the digital audio out is being used, so it couldn't make a decision to shut off the analog outputs.

HDMI, on the other hand, is quite different as there are two way communications between the 8300 and the TV (one of the communications being about audio).I agree. I just didn't want to make a postitve statement since it's been so long since I used both at the same time. Come to think of it, I think I still have them both hooked up, digital to AVR and RCA to TV, but the only time I use the TV speakers anymore is when I connect the notebook.

HDMI, on the other hand, is quite different as there are two way communications between the 8300 and the TV (one of the communications being about audio).


Yep, which is why you have to select either Dolby Digital or HDMI for the audio output. It seems that the composite ins/outs on various units (DVD, VCR, etc.) are active regardless of digital connections. The problems occur when you try to use multiple digital outs, i.e. coax and optical, on the same unit.

New 8300HD Sara 1.88.25.1 here in NoVA. My search didn't provide any help as it was prolly to generic. Is there a way to have the remote guide button bring up the TV listings direct without have to hit the select button? In other words, a single button press instead of two.

New 8300HD Sara 1.88.25.1 here in NoVA. My search didn't provide any help as it was prolly to generic. Is there a way to have the remote guide button bring up the TV listings direct without have to hit the select button? In other words, a single button press instead of two.Huh? I've never had to hit 2 buttons to bring up the Guide. I use a Harmony now, but I just got out the cable remote and the Guide comes right up when I press either Guide or Menu. What exactly happens when you press Guide?

It's been awhile, but I believe it's turn off the box, press INFO + GUIDE, and then follow the on-screen directions. The complete instructions are on page 3 in the latest SA8300HD User's Guide. You can download that from the Scientific Atlanta website, link is in first post.
I went through the initial setup, and shut off everything but 720P. Now the 8300HD will output to the pj native, and the picture does not have to reset. I think sd looks better, but can't say for sure on HD. My opinion is that converting 480 to 1080 then to 720P was not a good for the pq. otoh, sending 1080i made the pj convert down to 720P, and now I am just converting it to 720P inside the 8300. 6 of one...
Thanks for the help:)

Huh? I've never had to hit 2 buttons to bring up the Guide. I use a Harmony now, but I just got out the cable remote and the Guide comes right up when I press either Guide or Menu. What exactly happens when you press Guide?

Pressing the Guide Button brings up a menu (TV Listings, VODLK, HBO on D, Show on D, etc.). To get to the actual TV Listings guide, the select button must be pressed while having TV Listings highlighted.

Pressing the Guide Button brings up a menu (TV Listings, VODLK, HBO on D, Show on D, etc.). To get to the actual TV Listings guide, the select button must be pressed while having TV Listings highlighted.Since I don't have VOD, HBO OnDemand, etc., it obviously makes a difference how they display things. Maybe someone else with those options has found a way to personalize that menu system, but I suspect you are stuck. Too bad they didn't use the Guide button to bring up the Guide directly and use the Menu button to bring up the other options. Anyone with SARA and VOD, etc., have a different Menu setup?

FWIW, I had two explorer 8000's for about a week while waiting for the 8300 to arrive. The first 8000 failed after one day and a replacement was installed. The first 8000 functioned the same as my 8300 and the 2nd 8000 functioned differently with the guide coming up with one button press.

This is what caused me to believe there is a setting somewhere...

I went through the initial setup, and shut off everything but 720P. Now the 8300HD will output to the pj native, and the picture does not have to reset. I think sd looks better, but can't say for sure on HD. My opinion is that converting 480 to 1080 then to 720P was not a good for the pq. otoh, sending 1080i made the pj convert down to 720P, and now I am just converting it to 720P inside the 8300. 6 of one...
Thanks for the help:)Glad to hear you were able to figure out the settings and find the one that works for you.

FWIW, I had two explorer 8000's for about a week while waiting for the 8300 to arrive. The first 8000 failed after one day and a replacement was installed. The first 8000 functioned the same as my 8300 and the 2nd 8000 functioned differently with the guide coming up with one button press.

This is what caused me to believe there is a setting somewhere...That is interesting. You might want to look into the remote User's Guide to see if there is a setting to differentiate the Guide and Menu buttons. As it is now, they both appear to be doing the same thing and, like I mentioned earlier, it seems like the Guide button should be able to go directly to the Guide. I don't think there is any Settings option to do that, but if there is, it would probably be one of the Set: options in General Settings.

I have SARA 1.88.25.1 and VOD, HBO on Demand, etc., when I press either the MENU or GUIDE button it displays the TV listings without having to press another button. I don't have any menu (TV Listings, VODLK, HBO on D, Show on D, etc.) Maybe, your cable company customized these buttons to display the menu. My remote has a button "iCONTROL" (or I can go to channel 1) to display the VOD menu and from there I can select menu options to get to HBO, Showtime, etc on Demand. I haven't seen any settings to control this.
FWIW, I had two explorer 8000's for about a week while waiting for the 8300 to arrive. The first 8000 failed after one day and a replacement was installed. The first 8000 functioned the same as my 8300 and the 2nd 8000 functioned differently with the guide coming up with one button press.

This is what caused me to believe there is a setting somewhere...

I have SARA 1.88.25.1 and VOD, HBO on Demand, etc., when I press either the MENU or GUIDE button it displays the TV listings without having to press another button. I don't have any menu (TV Listings, VODLK, HBO on D, Show on D, etc.) Maybe, your cable company customized these buttons to display the menu. My remote has a button "iCONTROL" (or I can go to channel 1) to display the VOD menu and from there I can select menu options to get to HBO, Showtime, etc on Demand. I haven't seen any settings to control this.Now that I think about it, I believe that's how my daughter's TWC works in El Paso too, I'll have to check the next time we run over there for a visit.

Hey Experts :)

I need some help.. please! I've tried a lot to get this working..

Okay.

Here's what I have:
PVR: 8300HD
TV: Sharp lc37d43u
AV: Sony DAV-X1

Here's how I have it connected:
PVR to TV: HDMI
PVR to AV: Digital Coaxial

Here's the problem:

Whenever I switch the Audio Output selection from HDMI to Dolby - the receiver accepts the Dolby output and works great. The TV is set to output no sound which is what I want.

BUT - As soon as I switch to an HD channel (either 1080i or 720p) the picture starts to flicker snow on and off indefinitely. When I switch back to SD it continues to flicker.

The only way I can stop it flickering (normal picture to fuzzy snow to normal picture to fuzzy snow.. etc) is by either keeping it on SD and turning off the receiver and TV... OR changing the Audio Out from Dolby to HDMI.

I changed HDMI cables - same thing. I unplugged the digital coaxial cable - same thing.

Can someone please shed some light?

Is it the PVR or maybe the TV?

getting very frustrated!! ahh

getting very frustrated!! ahhI didn't look at the specs for your TV and I've got to head for work, but maybe it is having trouble displaying 720p or something. Some also have trouble with 480i over HDMI. Have you tried disabling 720p and 480i in favor of just 1080i and 480p?

I didn't look at the specs for your TV and I've got to head for work, but maybe it is having trouble displaying 720p or something. Some also have trouble with 480i over HDMI. Have you tried disabling 720p and 480i in favor of just 1080i and 480p?

thx for your help...

the tv works fine with HD...

i only have this problem when I turn on Dolby output..

It works fine in HD (both 720p and 1080i) when the audio output is set to HDMI.

So it has to do with either the PVR outputing 720p/1080i and Dolby at the same time.. or maybe the TV doesn't like the input of HD and Dolby..

Is there a way to disable any audio from going thru HDMI and forcing it through Digital Coaxial or Optical?

Is there a way to disable any audio from going thru HDMI and forcing it through Digital Coaxial or Optical?
On mine if I have the 8300 set to Dolby Digital there is no sound on the TV via the HDMI.

I have an SA8300HD. Is it possible to do the following ALL AT THE SAME TIME:
- Record Show 1 on Station 1
- Record Show 2 on Station 2
- Watch Show 3 already recorded on the SA830HD
- Send Show 4 already recorded on the SA8300HD to the VCR

I tried this and only one of the shows I wanted was recorded. I wondered if it was because I was watching a recorded show and sending a different recorded show to the VCR. Can you please comment. Thanks.

I have an SA8300HD. Is it possible to do the following ALL AT THE SAME TIME:
- Record Show 1 on Station 1
- Record Show 2 on Station 2
- Watch Show 3 already recorded on the SA830HD
- Send Show 4 already recorded on the SA8300HD to the VCR

I tried this and only one of the shows I wanted was recorded. I wondered if it was because I was watching a recorded show and sending a different recorded show to the VCR. Can you please comment. Thanks.
That should work according to the following section from the first post in this thread.

Program Distribution. 8300HD has 2 tuners and 2 outputs that may be used at same time. Archive To VCR option uses Composite/S-Video connection to "archive" recorded program to VCR/DVD. However, it can also be used to "view" downconverted recorded program on alternate TV while viewing different live/recorded program on main TV or recording two other programs on 8300HD. Also, depending on software version/cableco, 8300HD may be similarly connected to one device via HDMI and another device via Component to view same recorded/live program on different TVs at same time. Component/HDMI no longer work for some, but Composite/S-Video still work with Archive To VCR option for everyone.

I think the "or" in the above quoted section should be "and/or". Maybe, the 8300HD got overloaded and missed one of the recordings. Sometimes, my 8300HD doesn't record all my scheduled programs for no obvious reason.

I really don't want to make a seperate thread for this question so here goes.

For the past couple of months some of my SD recordings have started to record blocky. Here lately I'd say 9 out of every 10 record that way. HD recording is fine. I thought it may be the box but my father's does the same thing.

Is this a common issue with the 8300HD? I've had this particular box about 2 years now.

I really don't want to make a seperate thread for this question so here goes.

For the past couple of months some of my SD recordings have started to record blocky. Here lately I'd say 9 out of every 10 record that way. HD recording is fine. I thought it may be the box but my father's does the same thing.

Is this a common issue with the 8300HD? I've had this particular box about 2 years now.SD recordings shouldn't be an issue. Do you see this blocking when watching Live?

SD recordings shouldn't be an issue. Do you see this blocking when watching Live?

Nope. I can record something on the fly and it'll never do it. But without fail I can pick any SD recording in my list and it'll be blocky. Doesn't matter what channel, show, whatever. I'm not sure if I should have the cable people come in and check the signals.

Nope. I can record something on the fly and it'll never do it. But without fail I can pick any SD recording in my list and it'll be blocky. Doesn't matter what channel, show, whatever. I'm not sure if I should have the cable people come in and check the signals.Having cable look at it might be a good idea. But first (just a wild thought), try a HARD REBOOT (pull power from back of 8300, wait 1 minute, WHILE HOLDING front panel POWER plug power back in, KEEP HOLDING POWER till "boot" appears on front panel, then release. Then there is the TOTAL REBOOT that veggas recommends as a last resort: Check the very first post for details (and other great hints!)

Nope. I can record something on the fly and it'll never do it. But without fail I can pick any SD recording in my list and it'll be blocky. Doesn't matter what channel, show, whatever. I'm not sure if I should have the cable people come in and check the signals.I record SD programs all the time from FX, USA, etc., and haven't had any problems.

That should work according to the following section from the first post in this thread.FWIW, that process hasn't been tested in a long time, I no longer have a VCR connected. I don't know why it wouldn't still work though. Was it tried more than once?

I'm having the same problem that DaveZ had back on page 203 of this thread. Namely, the buffer on my 8300 HD doesn't seem to exist most of the time.

For example, I'm currently watching game 2 of the World Series. The 8300 has been on, without changing the channel or using PIP, for 3 hours. The TV is connected via component input, and has been on the game the whole time. There should be a hour worth of buffer available, and yet, when I go to rewind, there's nothing there. I get a big red bar.

Now two minutes later, I go to rewind, and I have two minutes worth of buffer. It's like the DVR only starts buffering when I try to rewind, and that reminds it that it's supposed to be buffering what I'm watching.

Any ideas? I've been on the phone with Comcast, and their answer is always "reboot it!". Well, that hasn't worked the first 3 times.

Help. This blows.

Thanks in advance.

I'm having the same problem that DaveZ had back on page 203 of this thread.Don't have an answer yet for your problem, but I wanted to advise you that referring to page numbers doesn't help. AVS allows users to determine how many posts per page to display, so I am only on page 107. It's better to refer to post numbers.

Also, we could always use more info, like location, cableco, version of SARA (if that's what you are using), etc.

Off the top of my head I would suggest a Hard Reboot (see first post). Simply pulling the plug doesn't really do all that much.

I just switched to Grey's Anatomy, 41 minutes in, and the buffer is all there. Of course, I'm recording it, but I was in the live buffer, not the recording. I can't test your way because I'm recording 2 programs.

I really don't want to make a seperate thread for this question so here goes.

For the past couple of months some of my SD recordings have started to record blocky. Here lately I'd say 9 out of every 10 record that way. HD recording is fine. I thought it may be the box but my father's does the same thing.

Is this a common issue with the 8300HD? I've had this particular box about 2 years now.

Definitely try a reboot....I had a similar problem last summer and that did the trick for me.

Maybe you'll get lucky!!

Venting....
Got a new Plasma HDTV back in August and I switched from Dish Network SD to Cox Cable HD about 2 weeks ago in order to consolidate all my TV, telephone, and internet services under one provider. However, I'm seriously considering switching back to DISH TV because of the very poor OS in the cable box.
The DVR I had with my SD Dish Network is about 3 or 4 generations ahead of the 8300/8240 HD DVR in terms of ease of use and features. The 8300 really sucks. You can't filter out channels in the program guide you will NEVER watch or the channels you did not subscribe to - which means you have to go through the program guide line by line to see what is showing -- all 300+ channels; you can't establish different 'favorites' in the program guide lists which allows you to have one Program Guide listing of just Kids channels, one for movies, etc.; you can only search on the first letter of the shows name; you can't easily search across days to find out all the days/times a show is on; you can't type in an actor's name to find all the show times and channel for movies they are in; the Dish remote had a 'jump ahead' feature which jumped forward 30 seconds when time shifting -- which made it really easy to skip thorough commercials; and on and on.
Because of these short-comings, my family is not really enjoying the HD experience. :-( My wife basically just goes back and forth between the basic network channels 4,5,7,9 (NBC, FOX, ABC, CBS) -- the rest of the channels she used to watch are buried so far down the channel guide that she doesn't bother channel surfing to find them.
Does anybody know if there are any upcoming upgrades to the 8300 OS to bring it at least into the mid-1990s before I pull the plug and go back to DISH?
Thanks!

Cox Cable, 8300 HD-DVR with SARA

traffic_guy,

You ar enot the first to vent, we have all done it to varying degrees depending on previous experience, mostly former Tivo users. Unfortunately, there are changes coming, but certainly not fast enough to help you. Had you checked here before you made the switch, we could have told you all that you found out the hard way.

It's really no big deal for many of us, but since you appear to search the Guide often to find something to view/record, you will never get used to the cable DVR IMHO. Those of us who channel surf have typically set up our Favorite Channels list and simply tune through those. The only time I really use the Guide is when I'm setting up a recording.

Fortunately, all my HD channels are grouped together (700-series). Since you have Cox, I suspect your's are too. My unit is also set to tune to the first HD channel (our local news) when turned on (this option is in General Settings-press Settings twice). If I then check the Guide, it starts there and is pretty simple to use the Up/Down keys to see what's on the HD channels. If your HD channels are not grouped, then it's really difficult to use the Guide. The search feature is all but useless.

Also, it's really got nothing to do with Dish being generations ahead. There is softwate out there for cable DVRs that is as good, but cableco's simply won't pay for it. They are working on other things to increase their HD offerings and allow retail DVRs to be used. There are 2 model Tivo's available now that interface with cable and more options should come once cableco's have implemented their improvements, particularly OCAP and DCAS. I don't expect much in this area until at least 2009.

I don't know your patience quotient, but you may be able to get used to the cable DVR if you give it some time, read the first post here, and read through the User's Guide (link is in the first post). You didn't mention the reduced selection of HD channels, so I take it that is not a concern? Although part of the reason I keep cable is the bundle, I doubt I would have switched from a sat service if I already had sat. If you do switch back, you should see what Dish will offer you to come back. Perhaps you can get some free HD upgrades, etc.

[QUOTE=Parsonator;12016503]I'm having the same problem that DaveZ had back on page 203 of this thread. Namely, the buffer on my 8300 HD doesn't seem to exist most of the time.

For example, I'm currently watching game 2 of the World Series. The 8300 has been on, without changing the channel or using PIP, for 3 hours. The TV is connected via component input, and has been on the game the whole time. There should be a hour worth of buffer available, and yet, when I go to rewind, there's nothing there. I get a big red bar.

Now two minutes later, I go to rewind, and I have two minutes worth of buffer. It's like the DVR only starts buffering when I try to rewind, and that reminds it that it's supposed to be buffering what I'm watching.

QUOTE]

I have experienced this issue twice. Once when the SATA drive was connected but not working, the second time when I was at 98% recorded utilization.

Having cable look at it might be a good idea. But first (just a wild thought), try a HARD REBOOT (pull power from back of 8300, wait 1 minute, WHILE HOLDING front panel POWER plug power back in, KEEP HOLDING POWER till "boot" appears on front panel, then release. Then there is the TOTAL REBOOT that veggas recommends as a last resort: Check the very first post for details (and other great hints!)

I'm going to try that now. I pulled up some recording just now that recorded last night and they did fine. Figures after I make a post about it :mad:

But that is literately the first time an SD recording has worked in weeks. I'll do that and post back in a day or so for results.

Thanks guys

Hello;

Is there a way to completely reset the box (I want to start clean, with no saved programs, no recording history, etc.)

I tried the instructions on page one about holding pause until the mail icon comes up, but that has not worked for me.

Hello;

Is there a way to completely reset the box (I want to start clean, with no saved programs, no recording history, etc.)

I tried the instructions on page one about holding pause until the mail icon comes up, but that has not worked for me.Well, first it would help if we knew exactly what you are trying to do and why. Then, depending on your answer, it might help to figure out what software you are using; SARA, Passport, or Navigator. This thread is dedicated to SARA and SARA only.

If you have SARA (which I doubt) and have read the first post, you should have figured out, by reading between the lines a bit, that there is no such thing as a "total" reset in the way you mean, even though that term is used. All you can reset are the unit internals, not the recorded programs or schedules, AFAIK those have to be deleted manually, at least for SARA.

And, there is no reason to go through the hassle of disconnecting things over night, etc., unless there is a specific problem you are trying to solve. Either way, you still have to manually delete all your recordings and schedules to start over. That can be a little tedious if you've set up a lot of schedules, but it's not all that bad and you don't have much choice with SARA.

If you have Passport or Navigator, there are threads dedicated to those and perhaps there is the kind of reset you are looking for, but I don't think so.

The 8300 is not a PC where you do a FORMAT C:\ and you're ready to start over. :) Let us know what you are trying to do and maybe we can provide better guidance.

Dave,

Wouldn't the Last Resort method reset the box the way mpet29 wants if he does have SARA?

I have never tried it so I can't recommend it. Here is the method from the first post:

Last Resort. If for some reason you can't get STB to do what you want and you've rebooted it by unplugging it, etc., this is a "last resort" item - say just before taking unit back, you can try reformatting HDD. SA8000HD (and presummably SA8300HD) has a fairly simple procedure to erase drive (start clean). Note that this process will erase all scheduled programming and will cause unit to reload all programming data from cable provider. On plus side, it will repair any fragmenting problems.
* Press and hold PAUSE until Mail led is lit.
* Press PAGE down or (-), and then press LIST three times.
* Turn box off. When turned back on, formatting will begin.
Well, first it would help if we knew exactly what you are trying to do and why. Then, depending on your answer, it might help to figure out what software you are using; SARA, Passport, or Navigator. This thread is dedicated to SARA and SARA only.

If you have SARA (which I doubt) and have read the first post, you should have figured out, by reading between the lines a bit, that there is no such thing as a "total" reset in the way you mean, even though that term is used. All you can reset are the unit internals, not the recorded programs or schedules, AFAIK those have to be deleted manually, at least for SARA.

And, there is no reason to go through the hassle of disconnecting things over night, etc., unless there is a specific problem you are trying to solve. Either way, you still have to manually delete all your recordings and schedules to start over. That can be a little tedious if you've set up a lot of schedules, but it's not all that bad and you don't have much choice with SARA.

If you have Passport or Navigator, there are threads dedicated to those and perhaps there is the kind of reset you are looking for, but I don't think so.

The 8300 is not a PC where you do a FORMAT C:\ and you're ready to start over. :) Let us know what you are trying to do and maybe we can provide better guidance.

Russ,

You're right, but I honestly don't know if that also deletes the schedules and I think "format" might be a misnomer in that I beleive it might be a "quick" format, like on PCs, that just resets some keys. That aside though, since his post kind of indicates that Pause didn't cause the Mail light to come on, I suspect he might not have SARA and that was really my main point. Until we know for sure, I hesitated to tell him something specific.

Also, it seems like there might be more to the story. Rarely doesn't someone want to go back to scratch, and until we know what the "real" problem is, there doesn't seem much point in trying something that may not fix the problem, whatever it is, and I'd much rather help correct the real problem than just try things.

The format operation does reset all data on the DVR, including all recordings, preferences and scheduled recordings. It is a "factory fresh" reset. I have had to use it about a dozen times on other people's various units, and at least twice on each of my three units (8000HD, 8300HD, 8240HDC) after doing specific evaluation and performance testing or simply wanting to clear out all of my canceled show recordings.
When doing the format procedure, there are times where it won't always "take" and will have to be redone again. The procedure is to get the mail light blinking from the remote control by holding down the pause button. Once blinking do not press anything else except the page down (page -) button on the remote three times while watching the display. The display should say something like HDD-1 and then HDD-2 or HDD-F. Once on the setting you want (typically the third press) leave it alone and put the remote down. In a few minutes, the DVR will reboot and reformat on it's own. Once complete in about 10 to 15 minutes (depending on RDC and FDC signal level quality) the unit will be available to be turned on, but it's best to leave it off and come back at a later time after it has completely downloaded all of the guide data and info.

vegggas

Welcome back, where the heck have you been? :)

Welcome back, where the heck have you been? :)

Traveling for work with extremely limited personal internet access :(

vegggas

I'm going to try that now. I pulled up some recording just now that recorded last night and they did fine. Figures after I make a post about it :mad:

But that is literately the first time an SD recording has worked in weeks. I'll do that and post back in a day or so for results.

Thanks guys

Well since I did the reboot everything seems to be recording fine.

Thanks guys!!!

Well since I did the reboot everything seems to be recording fine.

Thanks guys!!!

I know when I had a similar problem I spent a looooong time trying to spot a pattern in the poor quality recordings and then a 5 minute reboot made everything perfect!!

DUH..........

I know when I had a similar problem I spent a looooong time trying to spot a pattern in the poor quality recordings and then a 5 minute reboot made everything perfect!!

DUH..........

I broke my own rule. Always try the simple things first. Or should I say I forgot about it. Yeah thats it. :D

Don't have an answer yet for your problem, but I wanted to advise you that referring to page numbers doesn't help. AVS allows users to determine how many posts per page to display, so I am only on page 107. It's better to refer to post numbers.

Also, we could always use more info, like location, cableco, version of SARA (if that's what you are using), etc.

Off the top of my head I would suggest a Hard Reboot (see first post). Simply pulling the plug doesn't really do all that much.

I just switched to Grey's Anatomy, 41 minutes in, and the buffer is all there. Of course, I'm recording it, but I was in the live buffer, not the recording. I can't test your way because I'm recording 2 programs.

Well, I'm back, because a Hard Reboot did nothing, although I do apppreciate the suggestion.

I'm watching MNF, and I wanted to replay a great tackle, but when I hit rewind, I get a red bar, even though I've been watching without changing the channel for 45 minutes. This pisses me off. What's the point of a DVR if I can't rewind what I'm watching?

I'm on Comcast, in Harrisonburg, VA.
I followed this thread's directions to get the SARA version #, but there is no number even remotely like what it says to expect on my Software Versions screen in the Diagnostics Window. Here's what I have in Software Versions:

PTV OS: OS, Home Server CableCARD Edition 1.2
FLASH: DVR1.5.3_8300HDC_LR_F.p.1001
App[s]: saixod v3605
ispguid v.2.0.6

There is also a SARA INFORMATION page, but there's no version # there, either. However, in that page, there are a crapload of SOFTWARE ANOMALIES, mostly (As far as I can tell, since I don't know anything) dealing with [QPSK PPV D].

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance

Well, I'm back, because a Hard Reboot did nothing, although I do apppreciate the suggestion.

I'm watching MNF, and I wanted to replay a great tackle, but when I hit rewind, I get a red bar, even though I've been watching without changing the channel for 45 minutes. This pisses me off. What's the point of a DVR if I can't rewind what I'm watching?

I'm on Comcast, in Harrisonburg, VA.
I followed this thread's directions to get the SARA version #, but there is no number even remotely like what it says to expect on my Software Versions screen in the Diagnostics Window. Here's what I have in Software Versions:

PTV OS: OS, Home Server CableCARD Edition 1.2
FLASH: DVR1.5.3_8300HDC_LR_F.p.1001
App[s]: saixod v3605
ispguid v.2.0.6

There is also a SARA INFORMATION page, but there's no version # there, either. However, in that page, there are a crapload of SOFTWARE ANOMALIES, mostly (As far as I can tell, since I don't know anything) dealing with [QPSK PPV D].

Any ideas?

Thanks in advanceThe anomalies are usually nothing to worry about. I've had my 8300HD for almost 3 years now and there have always been such anomalies.

You might try looking at page 17, Component Information, for your version info (page number could have changed for the 8300HDC). I'm not sure what the "saixod" or "ispguid" are, but that is one location where the SARA info is usually found.

The anomalies are usually nothing to worry about. I've had my 8300HD for almost 3 years now and there have always been such anomalies.

You might try looking at page 17, Component Information, for your version info (page number could have changed for the 8300HDC). I'm not sure what the "saixod" or "ispguid" are, but that is one location where the SARA info is usually found.

Found it, thanks.

SARA version 1.90.5.103

Found it, thanks.

SARA version 1.90.5.103You're welcome, but that doesn't help much with your problem. :)

Have you done any other tests, like trying REW after only 5 minutes, etc.? Can you ever REW? How about PAUSE and then FF?

Every other DVR function works properly. Recording works fine, FF, Pause, Frame advance, all work. Rewind works sometimes, too. It's just that sometimes, I'll go to rewind, only to find that the program I've been watching for 30, 45, even 90 minutes hasn't been buffering, and the FF-REW bar is all red. But after I discover that, It'll buffer. It's like checking the buffer reminds the box that it's supposed to be buffering the program.

This sounds suspiciously like the problem some folks are having trying to record something (pressing the REC button) they are watching and all they get is from the current point forward, no buffer. I haven't been paying close attention to 1.90.x.x problems, but I suspect this is one of them and there is nothing you can do short of maybe checking the buffer right after you begin viewing something you think you might want to rewind at some point. I could be wrong, but I don't think we'll be seeing any updated software until cableco's begin releasing their OCAP versions (early next year?). Anyone else got any ideas? Russ? vegggas?

You can try recording everthing that you watch and playing it from the beginning and see if this allows you to rewind. Some of the benefits of doing this are if you accidentally switch channels you can go back to the playback channel and resume from where it paused without missing anything, you don't have to worry about starting to watch a show at a specific time you can watch it whenever you want to.
This sounds suspiciously like the problem some folks are having trying to record something (pressing the REC button) they are watching and all they get is from the current point forward, no buffer. I haven't been paying close attention to 1.90.x.x problems, but I suspect this is one of them and there is nothing you can do short of maybe checking the buffer right after you begin viewing something you think you might want to rewind at some point. I could be wrong, but I don't think we'llbe seeing any updated software until cableco's begin releasing their OCAP versions (early next year?). Anyone else got any ideas? Russ? vegggas?

Every other DVR function works properly. Recording works fine, FF, Pause, Frame advance, all work. Rewind works sometimes, too. It's just that sometimes, I'll go to rewind, only to find that the program I've been watching for 30, 45, even 90 minutes hasn't been buffering, and the FF-REW bar is all red. But after I discover that, It'll buffer. It's like checking the buffer reminds the box that it's supposed to be buffering the program.
If connected by HDMI, you would have to change channels after all the devices come online to get the buffer working when you turn on the TV or STB. When the TV or STB is off, it breaks the handshake and prohibits the video decoder from having an output from working and of course stops recording, unless there is a scheduled recording. It may take up to 60 seconds before the buffer is allowed to start and if you have not selected the channel AFTER the buffer starts, then there will be no buffer to see.
In general, if you want to make sure there is a buffer, figure out what channel you want to view, watch it for a few moments, then channel up or down off of it, then back to to the channel you want to buffer to ensure it starts.

vegggas

If connected by HDMI, you would have to change channels after all the devices come online to get the buffer working when you turn on the TV or STB. When the TV or STB is off, it breaks the handshake and prohibits the video decoder from having an output from working and of course stops recording, unless there is a scheduled recording. It may take up to 60 seconds before the buffer is allowed to start and if you have not selected the channel AFTER the buffer starts, then there will be no buffer to see.
In general, if you want to make sure there is a buffer, figure out what channel you want to view, watch it for a few moments, then channel up or down off of it, then back to to the channel you want to buffer to ensure it starts.

vegggas

Thanks for the help. Does this only apply to HDMI? I'm using component video.

I have an 8300HD from Time Warner that has worked perfectly for me until yesterday. It had been connected to an Optima RD50A via component cables.

The symptoms:

When watching an HD signal via the component cables, the picture is very, very red, i.e. the only color is red. It's like a greyscale picture except it is redscale. This is when the format is 720p (the native format of the TV). If I change the format to 1080i, the "redscale" picture changes to "bluescale". Same issue, just blue instead of red.

Note that the problem happened spontaneously. I had not been fiddling with any of the cables or settings.

My troubleshooting efforts:

1. I hooked up an S-Video cable from the 8300HD to the RD50A, and the picture is normal (but not in HD, of course).

2. I changed the component cables to a brand-new set. The symptom remains.

3. I unhooked the blue and red component cables from the unit, and watched the change to the picture. There is very little change. In other words, the picture looks the same whether all component cables are connected, or whether just the green component cable is connected.

4. I bought an HDMI-DVI cable (the port on the RD50A is DVI). I connected the 8300HD and RD50A via the cable. I unplugged the 8300HD, and turned off the RD50A. I turned on the RD50A and changed the input to DVI. I plugged in the 8300HD and waited for boot. When it came up, I got the "DVI Alert" message that tells me that my TV is not HDCP compliant. According to Optima, the RD50A *is* HDCP compliant, but no amount of rebooting, and cable unplugging would cause the "handshake" to occur.

Does anyone have any other suggestions for getting to the root of the problem? Has anyone seen something similar?

Edit Added 2007/11/07 ------------------------

OK, I found the problem. After swapping the 8300HD out with Time-Warner, I still had the same issue, so it wasn't the DVR. I finally did some reading about the RD50A, logged into the service menu, and reset everything to factory. For some reason, that fixed the problem. Since I had not been in the service menu before, I have no idea why it bugged out in the first place. Anyway, one of the mysteries with a happy ending.

Ed.

Is there a section in the diagnostics that shows which channels are copy-protected?

Thanks,
Harold

Is there a section in the diagnostics that shows which channels are copy-protected?

Thanks,
HaroldYes and No. Page 32/39 is titled COPY PROTECTION and displays Copy Protection status (not sure why you couldn't find it, assuming you even looked ;) ). However, it only shows the status (bottom of page) for the current channel(s). As near as I can tell, it shows the status for the HDD (Disk) and both tuners (Video Output). You will have to scan through channels with the page displayed to see the status for each and you will have to wait a second or three for the display to update. If you start with Channel 703, it won't take all that long to go through the HD channels. Basically the locals are "freely" and the others are "once". Most/all SD channels appear to be "freely" also.

Thanks, Dave. How do I scan thru the channels w/the page displayed? The only way I can get the page up is w/the box turned off. It disappears when I turn it on.

If I understand you the thing I'm supposed to be looking at is the "EMI" column under "CCI Events", correct? Weird, one HDHBO shows "freely", the other shows "once".

Harold

Ah, hell, I'm all confused. Is there any place that tells you what all this stuff means? Sometimes it says:

Disk
Video
Video

Sometimes it says

Video
Video
Video

I'm lost!

Harold

Ah, hell, I'm all confused. Is there any place that tells you what all this stuff means? Sometimes it says:

Disk
Video
Video

Sometimes it says

Video
Video
Video

I'm lost!

HaroldOkay, take a breath and calm down, it's not rocket science. :)

Here's what I believe this all means (someone will correct me if any part is wrong):

The display can take a few seconds to update. Eventually, it will settle on Disk, Video, and Video. The "disk" is for the hard drive. The first "video" is for the active tuner and the second "video" is for the inactive tuner. When you change channels, it has to update the display and it usually switches the display around as it updates. This should only take a couple of seconds or so and AFAIK it should never "settle" on video/video/video. If it does for some reason, simply change channels and come back.

If the display says "freely", you can copy it as many times as you want and copy it from one device to another after that. If it says "once", you can only copy it once. Note that if you record it to the hard drive, that is the one copy that is allowed.

Thanks, Dave. How do I scan thru the channels w/the page displayed? The only way I can get the page up is w/the box turned off. It disappears when I turn it on.You should be able to get the display up with the box on, I do all the time. If you bring it up when the box is off, turning it on resets it and you have to press Pause again to get the Mail LED to light, etc. After you get the display up with the box on, just channel up/down, but give is a few to several seconds to update the info.

If I understand you the thing I'm supposed to be looking at is the "EMI" column under "CCI Events", correct? Weird, one HDHBO shows "freely", the other shows "once".Yes. There is really no rhyme or reason to the settings. Locals have to be "freely" and the others are up to the cableco and/or content provider, like HBO, though I think it's mostly the cableco.

Ok thanks, guy. But I must be getting to my diagnostics a different way than you. I press Select and Info on the box till Mail flashes, then press Info again to bring it up. Is there another way?

H

You might want to check out the first post here, it has a few tips.

Anyway, I just press and hold Pause on the remote until the Mail LED lights. Then I press the Page Down (-) button to bring up the display. You can then use the Page Up (+) and Page Down (-) to scroll through the pages. This works with the box on or off, but obviously the box needs to be on first in order to change channels.

I assume you want to use Firewire to record some content?

BTW. If you plan to hang around, we suggest you add a location to your profile and add your cableco and software version info to your signature.

Also, be advised that this thread only pertains to SARA software, not Passport or Navigator.

DD,

Kewl, the Pause method worked great.

I'm considering Firewire or Tivo.

Thanks much for all the help!

H

DD,

Kewl, the Pause method worked great.

I'm considering Firewire or Tivo.

Thanks much for all the help!

HThere are a couple of threads here that discuss these things in more detail. Look for the threads that relate to copying to a pc, etc.

Hi Guys,

I know this is lame, but I've read every post since subscribing a couple of years ago, but I cannot recall and cannot find the posts about whether the component outs are active if an HDMI cable is connected. I seem to recall that ther are not.

I putting a new Integra DTC-9.8 in my system, and want to have HDMI go into it, while still having compenent go directly to my monitor.

I hate to take others time, but can anyone give me a quick yes or no as to whether component remain active with HDMI?

Thanks so much.

David

Hi Guys,

I know this is lame, but I've read every post since subscribing a couple of years ago, but I cannot recall and cannot find the posts about whether the component outs are active if an HDMI cable is connected. I seem to recall that ther are not.

I putting a new Integra DTC-9.8 in my system, and want to have HDMI go into it, while still having compenent go directly to my monitor.

I hate to take others time, but can anyone give me a quick yes or no as to whether component remain active with HDMI?

Thanks so much.

DavidIt seems to vary. I've seen reports both ways, but it occurs to me that the later versions of software do not allow both to be active at the same time. My current set is hooked up via component, so I personally can't comment, though I will have a new display in a couple of weeks that will be hooked up via HDMI (and I'll likely connect component as well).

It seems to vary. I've seen reports both ways, but it occurs to me that the later versions of software do not allow both to be active at the same time. My current set is hooked up via component, so I personally can't comment, though I will have a new display in a couple of weeks that will be hooked up via HDMI (and I'll likely connect component as well).
Thanks Dave. I'll try it and report back with Sara version.

I can't recall anyone with SARA 1.89.x.x or later reporting that they are both active at the same time. IIRC, the reports about using one disabling the other started with the release of 1.89. It could simply be though that no one with 1.89 and both working outputs has posted.

My Comcast SA 8300HD-DVR sits under the HD Flat Screen in my family room hooked up via HDMI. Close by is my office and my wife's sewing room. I was wondering if I could use some of the other outputs from the 8300 to run analog audio/video to monitors in the other two rooms (which don't have cable boxes).

Before I pull things a part to try, is my plan a possibility?

Yes, as long as you don't try to use both Component and HDMI. The S-Video and Video outputs work just fine with either HDMI or Component. Some version of SARA still allow both Component and HDMI, but newer versions don't seem to. There is some info in the first post about doing this. I take it you didn't read it. ;)

Hey all - Woke up today and for some reason, the cable box is displaying "----" on the front! (and not working). I removed power and the cable line for about 1 min and reconnected, same thing. Can't do a forums search for ---- (not a word, lol), so... Help? :)

Yes, as long as you don't try to use both Component and HDMI. The S-Video and Video outputs work just fine with either HDMI or Component. Some version of SARA still allow both Component and HDMI, but newer versions don't seem to. There is some info in the first post about doing this. I take it you didn't read it. ;)Let me add to that that the RF-Output (on channel 3 or 4) also "plays" what is on the main outputs. Good for long runs. Sort of a cheap MR. I use that to feed a TV (actually a tuner on the PC there) in our office.

Hey all - Woke up today and for some reason, the cable box is displaying "====" on the front! (and not working). I removed power and the cable line for about 1 min and reconnected, same thing. Can't do a forums search for ---- (not a word, lol), so... Help? :)

Call your provider

Yes, as long as you don't try to use both Component and HDMI. The S-Video and Video outputs work just fine with either HDMI or Component. Some version of SARA still allow both Component and HDMI, but newer versions don't seem to. There is some info in the first post about doing this. I take it you didn't read it. ;) Just to share...

I have SARA 1.89 and I am able to run both component and HDMI at the same time, I simply cannot have the HDMI device active or the component shuts off. I'm happy with this, because the family can just turn on the cable box and plasma and watch tv on the component input without turning on the whole sound system, but when we want to watch a movie on the DVR or something special and need to the sound system, I have the HDMI running to my pre/pro and simply chose the HDMI stream.

Let me add to that that the RF-Output (on channel 3 or 4) also "plays" what is on the main outputs. Good for long runs. Sort of a cheap MR. I use that to feed a TV (actually a tuner on the PC there) in our office.

That's perfect! Never thought of that.... I can run coax to a tube TV in my wife's sewing room so she can watch 120 (The Soap Channel) while she sews.

That's perfect! Never thought of that.... I can run coax to a tube TV in my wife's sewing room so she can watch 120 (The Soap Channel) while she sews.Glad it will work for you.

BTW, the RF output has stereo sound too.

Just to share...

I have SARA 1.89 and I am able to run both component and HDMI at the same time, I simply cannot have the HDMI device active or the component shuts off. I'm happy with this, because the family can just turn on the cable box and plasma and watch tv on the component input without turning on the whole sound system, but when we want to watch a movie on the DVR or something special and need to the sound system, I have the HDMI running to my pre/pro and simply chose the HDMI stream.

That's interesting, I do the same thing except for the fact that I have HDMI running to the LCD and Component running to my receiver. I thought the component picture was better so I picked it for my surround set-up and ran the HDMI for just plain TV.

I have an original "classic" SlingBox which I've used for years to watch my standard cable channels remotely. Has always worked well. But I've been toying with the idea of moving the SlingBox close to my SA Explorer 8300HD-DVR and seeing if I can enjoy more channels that way (I realize that the HD channels will not work with this model SlingBox).

Before I try, my question is: Is the IR jack in the back of the 8300 active (the manual says "for future use")? I would be happier having the Slingbox control the 8300 directly through the jack rather than playing with the IR extension thingys....... (if I can even find them).

Don't forget too that the "Copy To VCR" function can be used to send recorded content without interrupting what is displayed on the main TV.

Before I try, my question is: Is the IR jack in the back of the 8300 active (the manual says "for future use")? I would be happier having the Slingbox control the 8300 directly through the jack rather than playing with the IR extension thingys....... (if I can even find them).

I am pretty sure it does work(IR jack). HD content will still look good too - even though it isn't HD resolution the encoding rate is much better so the double-encoding by the Slingbox will look sharper.

xnappo

I want to thank you for collecting all these SA8300HD Tips and Tricks. I want to add a couple of items of my own.

Because my father is having some hearing problems and I myself occasionally like to use closed captions because some dialogue is hard to pick up on action shows, we often use closed captions at our house. Unfortunately there's something strange about the digital captions on our local HD broadcast stations. Our ABC station digital captions either don't work at all or they flicker erratically. I found away however to trick the cable box into using old-fashioned line 21 analog captions CC1 even on a digital HD broadcast. These older style captions seem to be much more reliable.

Press the Settings button twice and go into the captions source. Select something other than the "Digital 1". Generally I select "Digital3". You have to select a caption stream that is not available on the show. Note many shows these days have Hispanic language on Digital2 so that's why I go to 3. Apparently the cable box reverts to the analog captions whenever it cannot find any captions from the selected digital stream. Some TVs have a setting to force the use of analog captions but this STB does not. That's why you need this workaround if your digital streams aren't working properly.

I'd also like to report this bug report... if I'm watching a recorded program and the program ends and I attempt to erase it just as another program is about to begin recording, the software gets confused and if you're not careful you will end up accidentally erasing the wrong program. Typically it is up mistakenly erasing the oldest program on your list.

Bottom line is if you are about to erase the program at the top of the hour or at half past when you are about to begin recording another program, either wait until you are certain that the new recording has started and that you are erasing the proper program or just don't erase it right now... come back later when it's safe.

Again thanks for maintaining this thread. I hope my contribution has been helpful to someone.

By the way I'm not sure what software number I have but I think it is the SARA software. This is from BrightHouse cable in Indianapolis if that's any help.

I have also seen this problem. The confirmation screen shows the wrong program name that is about to be erased, but by the time I realize it is the wrong program I have already pressed the confirmation button by habit.

I want to thank you for collecting all these SA8300HD Tips and Tricks. I want to add a couple of items of my own.

. . .

I'd also like to report this bug report... if I'm watching a recorded program and the program ends and I attempt to erase it just as another program is about to begin recording, the software gets confused and if you're not careful you will end up accidentally erasing the wrong program. Typically it is up mistakenly erasing the oldest program on your list.

Bottom line is if you are about to erase the program at the top of the hour or at half past when you are about to begin recording another program, either wait until you are certain that the new recording has started and that you are erasing the proper program or just don't erase it right now... come back later when it's safe.

Again thanks for maintaining this thread. I hope my contribution has been helpful to someone.

By the way I'm not sure what software number I have but I think it is the SARA software. This is from BrightHouse cable in Indianapolis if that's any help.

Here is one more strange behavior/bug/workaround like to share with the group...

When your hard drive gets 100% full it can have all sorts of bizarre side effects. The most noticeable side effect is that your scheduled program list appears to go empty. However the schedule recordings are still there but they are invisible. I'm not sure if they really record but they can prohibit you from doing more recordings. For example the other day my disc got completely full and when I discovered it I erased a couple of programs. When I noticed that my scheduled recording list had been emptied I went back and tried to reenter the recordings. At several points I would get the traditional "you cannot record three programs at once" error message. Typically that screen shows you the three programs and lets you choose which one to erase or cancel. However in this instance only two programs were shown and in another instance it's that I had three scheduled recordings at once but there was only one visible. That's because those old scheduled recordings had not been lost when the disc got full... it just went invisible. Doing a reset by either unplugging the power or doing the front panel three finger salute makes your missing scheduled recordings magically reappear.

One further bug workaround... sometimes closed captioning completely quits working. This too can be caused by 100% full hard drive. Doing a reset fixes it.

We (Rogers Cable, Ontario, Canada) were recently upgraded to SARA 1.89.22.2. Previously we had been running 1.89.16.xx. I was wondering if there was any way (other than extensive trial-and-error) to find out what has been changed since 1.89.16?

So far what I've noticed is that padding a program now seems to work for the "This channel, any time" recordings. Previously, if I padded the recording time it would only work for the next instance of the show, and then revert to un-padded the following week. I am still not entirely convinced this has been fixed 100% (it could, for example, be that the program guide supplier is now sending two weeks' worth of programming data, and the PVR pads anything it can "see").

Also someone over at Videotron (Quebec) had mentioned that ZOOM1 now does a better job for letter-boxed 4:3 content. I haven't checked this out myself yet.

I read the instructions on page 1, but I'm a little confused. Can I do this with a program already recorded in HD on the 8300? If so, can I record it to the DVD recorder through the "record to VCR", or do I have to "play" the recording through one of the regular outputs as if I am sending it to a tv?

Probably stupid questions, but have patience with me.

I read the instructions on page 1, but I'm a little confused. Can I do this with a program already recorded in HD on the 8300?Yes, but you really could do it with a "live" program too. If so, can I record it to the DVD recorder through the "record to VCR", or do I have to "play" the recording through one of the regular outputs as if I am sending it to a tv?No, you have to "play" the recording through one of the regular outputs (preferably S-video). The reason is that the Zoom control that you need to use to get squeeze only works on the regular outputs.

Yes, but you really could do it with a "live" program too. No, you have to "play" the recording through one of the regular outputs (preferably S-video). The reason is that the Zoom control that you need to use to get squeeze only works on the regular outputs.

Thanks, I'll give it a try.

Yes, but you really could do it with a "live" program too. No, you have to "play" the recording through one of the regular outputs (preferably S-video). The reason is that the Zoom control that you need to use to get squeeze only works on the regular outputs.

Hey, thanks a million. Just recorded a couple of HD movies and it worked great. Thought it would be apain rerouting cables but wasn't that bad. Basically, all you have to do is disconnect your cables to the tv and let 'em hang there and move the audio to the number 1 output. The S-video seems to work on the number one output when you disconnect the cables to the TV.

Thanks again.

Hey, thanks a million. Just recorded a couple of HD movies and it worked great. Thought it would be apain rerouting cables but wasn't that bad. Basically, all you have to do is disconnect your cables to the tv and let 'em hang there and move the audio to the number 1 output. The S-video seems to work on the number one output when you disconnect the cables to the TV.

Thanks again.I use "Y" adapters and essentially have it permanently connected to both the TV and the DVD-R.

Hi

Can the 8300HD output to two HD outputs simultaneously? I mean one 1080p tv on the HDMI and one HD tv on the component?

I have a tv in the basement and would like to have the output on both.

Thanks

Hi

Can the 8300HD output to two HD outputs simultaneously? I mean one 1080p tv on the HDMI and one HD tv on the component?

I have a tv in the basement and would like to have the output on both.

ThanksProbably not, older versions of SARA used to permit this, but the current versions do not. I understand that you can use the component outputs when the set with the HDMI is turned off. But apparently that is not what you are looking for.

Hi

Can the 8300HD output to two HD outputs simultaneously? I mean one 1080p tv on the HDMI and one HD tv on the component?

I have a tv in the basement and would like to have the output on both.

ThanksAsked and answered several times. It all depends on your software version and cableco. Some had it working until 1.89 and some still have it working after 1.89 while others don't. The only way to know is to try it.

Thanks for the answers

Asked and answered several times.

Probably, but my ability to parse through 215 pages of thread is pretty limited.

Regards

I use "Y" adapters and essentially have it permanently connected to both the TV and the DVD-R.

I take it you are talking about just the audio or are you splitting the three videos too? In any event mY recorder does not take a component cable input.

Btw, after I did the recording and tried to go back to the regular set-up, the box was kinda screwed up; couldn't get any video output or red only to the tv. A reboot cleared it up.

I take it you are talking about just the audio or are you splitting the three videos too? In any event mY recorder does not take a component cable input.I thought that you were talking only about audio. I use component to my TV, S-Video to the DVD-R. If you need to split S-Video there are distribution amps (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103065&cp=2032057.2032187.2032188.2032195&pg=1&parentPage=family) that will do the trick. You don't want to use any sort of "Y" connector with video because of impedance issues.

Btw, after I did the recording and tried to go back to the regular set-up, the box was kinda screwed up; couldn't get any video output or red only to the tv. A reboot cleared it up.I think the potential need for reboots is noted in the first thread. I've needed it about 30% of the time when going to SD. For me, it drops back to HD when I go to "List". I don't often have problems going back to HD.

Probably, but my ability to parse through 215 pages of thread is pretty limited. Well, my comment was kind of tongue in cheek, but since you seem to have taken some exception to it, there is a First Post here that is maintained current and even includes a short section on your question. And then, I only had to go back to post #6411 for the same question (followed by answers), that's less than a page or two, depending on how many posts/page you view. The point is, it doesn't always take reading all 6400+ posts to find an answer. It's always nice to check the first post and read the last 2-5 pages before asking a question, but we try to answer regardless. :)

I thought that you were talking only about audio. I use component to my TV, S-Video to the DVD-R. If you need to split S-Video there are distribution amps (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103065&cp=2032057.2032187.2032188.2032195&pg=1&parentPage=family) that will do the trick. You don't want to use any sort of "Y" connector with video because of impedance issues.

I think the potential need for reboots is noted in the first thread. I've needed it about 30% of the time when going to SD. For me, it drops back to HD when I go to "List". I don't often have problems going back to HD.

Last question, I promise. Was I right that you have to pull the component cables from the box going to the tv in order to get the S-Video to be the regular play output? I suppose I could test this myself, but I'm tired of trying to work in the back of my center.

And yes, I thought you meant just the audio. I have y-connectors that I had used when I had a Moxie Box that didn't have an output for recording.

Last question, I promise. Was I right that you have to pull the component cables from the box going to the tv in order to get the S-Video to be the regular play output? I suppose I could test this myself, but I'm tired of trying to work in the back of my center.

And yes, I thought you meant just the audio. I have y-connectors that I had used when I had a Moxie Box that didn't have an output for recording.You shouldn't have to disconnect the Component cables. I haven't heard anyone say their S-Video/Video/Composite aren't active when Component is connected. I have both Component and S-Video connected. I just switched TV inputs to see if S-Video was still active and it is. There only seems to be problems for some when Component and HDMI are both connected.

Well, my comment was kind of tongue in cheek, but since you seem to have taken some exception to it, there is a First Post here that is maintained current and even includes a short section on your question. And then, I only had to go back to post #6411 for the same question (followed by answers), that's less than a page or two, depending on how many posts/page you view. The point is, it doesn't always take reading all 6400+ posts to find an answer. It's always nice to check the first post and read the last 2-5 pages before asking a question, but we try to answer regardless. :)

Hi DoubleDaz

I did read the first post before posting my question. I didn't see anything about double-output on HD component & HDMI.
I re-read it again and still didn't find it. Please point out where in the first post this info is.

Regards

Last question, I promise. Was I right that you have to pull the component cables from the box going to the tv in order to get the S-Video to be the regular play output? I suppose I could test this myself, but I'm tired of trying to work in the back of my center.

And yes, I thought you meant just the audio. I have y-connectors that I had used when I had a Moxie Box that didn't have an output for recording.No, you don't have to pull any cables. Permanent hook-up. Component to your TV, S-Video to your DVD-R (and likely the DVD-R output to the TV via another set of components).

No, you don't have to pull any cables. Permanent hook-up. Component to your TV, S-Video to your DVD-R (and likely the DVD-R output to the TV via another set of components).

Thanks, I'll find my y-connectors and set it up permanently.

Hi DoubleDaz

I did read the first post before posting my question. I didn't see anything about double-output on HD component & HDMI.
I re-read it again and still didn't find it. Please point out where in the first post this info is.

RegardsSigh.... I don't want to belabor the point and I wasn't trying to pick on you, but under Miscellaneous, there is a section titled Program Distribution and I don't know how it can be any clearer. ;)

It reads:

Program Distribution. 8300HD has 2 tuners and 2 outputs that may be used at same time. Archive To VCR option uses Composite/S-Video connection to "archive" recorded program to VCR/DVD. However, it can also be used to "view" downconverted recorded program on alternate TV while viewing different live/recorded program on main TV or recording two other programs on 8300HD. Also, depending on software version/cableco, 8300HD may be similarly connected to one device via HDMI and another device via Component to view same recorded/live program on different TVs at same time. Component/HDMI no longer work for some, but Composite/S-Video still work with Archive To VCR option for everyone.

I have a SARA 8300:

Flash: 1.88.25.1
SARA:1.88.25.1 (global cfg, mon jul 11, 2005, page 14/35)

I have it plugged into a Yamaha RX V2700. I have a Toshiba HDDVD plugged into the same receiver. Both are connected via HDMI. The HDDVD has no issue with displaying 720p/1080 on my 52" Mits DLP.

The DVR will not output a picture on the HDMI thru the amp. If I connect the DVR directly to the TV, it will output a picture on the HDMI.


Ok, I updated my 1080i Mits to a 1080p Mits.

When I plug in my HDMI into the RXV2700 or the TV directly, I just get fuzz. So I connected an RCA video cable.

When I go to the RCA input, I see the message

"Copyright Protection
The HDMI/DVI is blocked"

So I called Comcast, they tried to reconfig my DVR. Bottom line, my HDMI port will not output a signal.

The DVR is 3 yrs old, I may take it in and exchange it.

Has anyone else seen that warning/message. I can't believe that there is a copyright block on the HDMI......ridiculous.

I'd like to run the HDMI through my reciever so I can upgrade the SD channels to something a little closer to HD.

I have a problem. I just upgraded my Onkyo receiver. I am not connecting the video to the receiver. It is straight from my Sony 60A2020 TV to the cable box twice. Once connected via composite to view standard def TV, and one connected via component.

The component and the HD viewing is fine. When I want to view a show in SD on an SD channel using the composite cables, I get the letterbox bars on the left hand side.

It is like something is forcing the signal to be upconverted. I have gone through the HD menu by holding the guide and info buttons. I have also gone through the settings using the remote and tried using all of the different "Picture Format" options with no luck.

I had to unplug the 8300HD, so was there a firmware update?

I can't think of any other reason why I can't get the picture to take up the full screen, while watching an SD channel.

*Please don't give me the "you should watch things in 4x3 speech, already know it, this is mostly for the children and cartoons.

Edit...

I have again tried all of the tricks on the front page (removing black bars, HDMI/component swapping trick). None of them are working.

It sounds like the duel tuner isn't working. I am going to try a total reset tonight, and possibly swap out the unit.

Ok, I updated my 1080i Mits to a 1080p Mits.

When I plug in my HDMI into the RXV2700 or the TV directly, I just get fuzz. So I connected an RCA video cable.

When I go to the RCA input, I see the message

"Copyright Protection
The HDMI/DVI is blocked"

So I called Comcast, they tried to reconfig my DVR. Bottom line, my HDMI port will not output a signal.

The DVR is 3 yrs old, I may take it in and exchange it.

Has anyone else seen that warning/message. I can't believe that there is a copyright block on the HDMI......ridiculous.

I'd like to run the HDMI through my reciever so I can upgrade the SD channels to something a little closer to HD.
How do you know it's the 8300, and not the TV? Are you doing the "handshake" (TV on first) properly? I ask because I'm having the same problem with my PJ. I used to get hdmi, but a few months ago I got the blocked message. I am trying to figure out if the hdmi port stopped working, as you suggested or Cox started using HDCP & my PJ is the problem.

How do you know it's the 8300, and not the TV? Are you doing the "handshake" (TV on first) properly? I ask because I'm having the same problem with my PJ. I used to get hdmi, but a few months ago I got the blocked message. I am trying to figure out if the hdmi port stopped working, as you suggested or Cox started using HDCP & my PJ is the problem.


I know its the 8300. I have a toshiba HDDVD. It has no issues routing through the 2700 and direct to TV with HDMI.

I called Comcast Tech support. They tried to do a 'boot' of the unit, we rebooted did a bunch of stuff. Bottom line, they said it was the DVR. Every other component I have outputs HDMI to the TV with no issues.

Sigh.... I don't want to belabor the point and I wasn't trying to pick on you, but under Miscellaneous, there is a section titled Program Distribution and I don't know how it can be any clearer. ;)

It reads:

I didn't feel picked on, was simply asking where it was. Given the subtitle "program distribution" which couldn't be less clear, I missed it twice.

Thank you

The component and the HD viewing is fine. When I want to view a show in SD on an SD channel using the composite cables, I get the letterbox bars on the left hand side.

It is like something is forcing the signal to be upconverted. I have gone through the HD menu by holding the guide and info buttons. I have also gone through the settings using the remote and tried using all of the different "Picture Format" options with no luck.

I had to unplug the 8300HD, so was there a firmware update?

I can't think of any other reason why I can't get the picture to take up the full screen, while watching an SD channel.

*Please don't give me the "you should watch things in 4x3 speech, already know it, this is mostly for the children and cartoons.

I believe that your issue is with your TV (you didn't say what it was) - not the cable box. Most TVs will treat 480i (which is the only thing you will get from composite, RF, or S-Video) as 4:3. However, most sets also have settings to change the default for SD (480i). So I'd suggest poking around in the TV manual. In a Sony TV, these settings are under the SCREEN menu.

I know its the 8300. I have a toshiba HDDVD. It has no issues routing through the 2700 and direct to TV with HDMI.Not to belabor the point, because it very well could be the DVR, but none of those other devices use HDCP, so the fact that they work over HDMI means absolutely nothing, other than that the TV HDMI port works. The DVR needs to get a valid HDCP handshake from the TV or it turns off the HDMI port, simple as that.

went through the setup to choose my hd resolution options. Seems that no matter what I view, the box stays on 720P. The regular non hd channels should go to 480 and they dont. Anyone have any ideas. I use component cables.

I didn't feel picked on, was simply asking where it was. Given the subtitle "program distribution" which couldn't be less clear, I missed it twice.

Thank youYou're welcome. FWIW, it's been in the post that way since Day One and was discussed quite a bit at that time and a few times since. The only change I've made is to note that they both may no longer work together with some new software and cableco's. I'm sorry you didn't pick up on it.

I believe that your issue is with your TV (you didn't say what it was) - not the cable box. Most TVs will treat 480i (which is the only thing you will get from composite, RF, or S-Video) as 4:3. However, most sets also have settings to change the default for SD (480i). So I'd suggest poking around in the TV manual. In a Sony TV, these settings are under the SCREEN menu.Unless I read his post wrong, I thought he said he only has a bar on the left side, not both or letter-boxed. I probably should have commented about that when I first read it.

I'm having the same problem with my PJ. I used to get hdmi, but a few months ago I got the blocked message. I am trying to figure out if the hdmi port stopped working, as you suggested or Cox started using HDCP & my PJ is the problem.It probably happened when Cox changed their version of SARA. A new version of the HDCP component fixed some problems, but broke some stuff that had previously worked - yours is a typical example of the latter. The change for most came last spring when there was a new update for the earlier daylight savings time.

went through the setup to choose my hd resolution options. Seems that no matter what I view, the box stays on 720P. The regular non hd channels should go to 480 and they dont. Anyone have any ideas. I use component cables.What is your General Settings/Set: Picture Format set to; Fixed, Pass-Through, what?

What is your General Settings/Set: Picture Format set to; Fixed, Pass-Through, what?I tried them all. Made no difference

I tried them all. Made no differenceTry a "hard" reboot as described in the first post to see if that resets things.

Unless I read his post wrong, I thought he said he only has a bar on the left side, not both or letter-boxed. I probably should have commented about that when I first read it.I red that too, but concluded it was a typo. There is not much that the 8300 can do to produce the image that he described. I've been seeing this issue on other (mostly display threads), and this is almost always the answer.

Not to belabor the point, because it very well could be the DVR, but none of those other devices use HDCP, so the fact that they work over HDMI means absolutely nothing, other than that the TV HDMI port works. The DVR needs to get a valid HDCP handshake from the TV or it turns off the HDMI port, simple as that.
HDDVD is not HDCP? I know my upconverted DVD is not, but I would have thought Hollywood would want to protect their precious HDDVD's better.
How can I test if it's my PJ's HDCP or COX's? I could get borrow an HDTV from someone. That's a tall order.

Not to belabor the point, because it very well could be the DVR, but none of those other devices use HDCP, so the fact that they work over HDMI means absolutely nothing, other than that the TV HDMI port works. The DVR needs to get a valid HDCP handshake from the TV or it turns off the HDMI port, simple as that.

It was my understanding that BluRay & HDDVD had copyright protection (HDCP protocol).

Ok, the DVR needs a valid HDCP handshake. A Mits 57833 is a month old TV design/model. How would you fix a HDCP handshake issue with a TV?

HDDVD is not HDCP? I know my upconverted DVD is not, but I would have thought Hollywood would want to protect their precious HDDVD's better.
How can I test if it's my PJ's HDCP or COX's? I could get borrow an HDTV from someone. That's a tall order.Yes, excellent question: "How can I test...?" Problem is that you can't - problem is also obvious: THEY can't. The HDCP standards were poorly written with inadequate test cases. So some combinations work and others don't. By in large, there are more problems with cable boxes than DVD players.

There is a belated recognition of the problem and a solution is underway via Simplay (http://www.simplayhd.com/index.aspx), a more exhaustive test organization (one that should have existed all along).

HDDVD is not HDCP? I know my upconverted DVD is not, but I would have thought Hollywood would want to protect their precious HDDVD's better.
How can I test if it's my PJ's HDCP or COX's? I could get borrow an HDTV from someone. That's a tall order.HD DVD and Blu-Ray do use HDCP, but they do not, AFAIK, do a handshake with the TV like a DVR does. There were plans to do just that, but I believe those were dropped back in '06. I googled "hd dvd hdcp" and the first hit was an article from '06 saying just that.

I don't know of any way to test HDCP. If it worked at one time and stopped working after a software upgrade, I would suspect the upgrade broke something. If it worked after the upgrade, then the DVR might be the culprit and I'd try a "hard" reboot or another DVR. If neither is the case, then I have no idea how to test the PJ short of connecting to another HDTV with HDMI.

It was my understanding that BluRay & HDDVD had copyright protection (HDCP protocol).

Ok, the DVR needs a valid HDCP handshake. A Mits 57833 is a month old TV design/model. How would you fix a HDCP handshake issue with a TV?Yes, they may, but not the same way the DVR does. My comment was simply offered to correct the statement that the DVR is at fault because the other devices work. That is an incorrect statement.

The age of the HDTV has little to with the problem. In fact, the newer TV could implement HDCP in a way that isn't compatible with the DVR. AFAIK, HDCP/HDMI standards allow a lot of leeway. That is why there were some HDMI issues fixed in the 1.89 release and that could have broken others.

As for fixing it, I have no idea. I'd try a "hard" reboot, another DVR, even check with the TV maker to see if there are any firmware updates. But, if the implementations are not compatible, you are stuck until something changes and you might have to fall back to Component until that happens (or switch services). Component always works and that is why the cableco's support it and not HDMI (for the most part).

As a side note, there are all kinds of connectors on all kinds of electronic devices. That doesn't mean they will all play nice with each other no matter how many actually do. HDCP just adds a complication to the equasion and does very little, if anything, to actually protect content while giving a lot of folks headaches.

We received DISK WRITE FAILURE error tonight on one 1yr in service dvr with about 30% capacity. I tried to do a hard reboot (hold pwr on plug in) and it just cycles boot and -nu- over and over. I assume that means the main HDD cannot load software. Should I deduce its toast and all is lost?

We received DISK WRITE FAILURE error tonight on one 1yr in service dvr with about 30% capacity. I tried to do a hard reboot (hold pwr on plug in) and it just cycles boot and -nu- over and over. I assume that means the main HDD cannot load software. Should I deduce its toast and all is lost?
It looks like your hard drive is gone.

It looks like your hard drive is gone.I agree, but it might be worth trying the things listed in the first post before replacing it, especially if there is anything considered important on it.

Sorry if this has been asked and answered, but what is the relative quality of the 8300HD output via HDMI and via component? I have cablevision and I've been using HDMI on my Visio 1080i plasma; however it only has 1 HDMI and I'm thinking about getting a toshiba HD DVD which only upconverts sd dvds via HDMI. Would the pic degrade if I switch from HDMI to component for the 8300HD, or would it be better to buy an HDMI switch?

Sorry if this has been asked and answered, but what is the relative quality of the 8300HD output via HDMI and via component? I have cablevision and I've been using HDMI on my Visio 1080i plasma; however it only has 1 HDMI and I'm thinking about getting a toshiba HD DVD which only upconverts sd dvds via HDMI. Would the pic degrade if I switch from HDMI to component for the 8300HD, or would it be better to buy an HDMI switch?Been discussed, but not really in those specific terms. As most things digital these days, there is no clear answer. HDMI should give better PQ, but that is not always the case, there have been posts saying both. The only way to know for sure is to try Component on your setup and see what you think. I don't know what HDMI switches cost, but that could be a consideration. If your goal is the best PQ you can get, then a switch is probably in your future. If PQ vs $$ is a consideration, then you might be satisfied with Component.

Sorry if this has been asked and answered, but what is the relative quality of the 8300HD output via HDMI and via component? I have cablevision and I've been using HDMI on my Visio 1080i plasma; however it only has 1 HDMI and I'm thinking about getting a toshiba HD DVD which only upconverts sd dvds via HDMI. Would the pic degrade if I switch from HDMI to component for the 8300HD, or would it be better to buy an HDMI switch?Which is better (and how much) depends on a lot of factors. I'd suggest trying component to see if there is a significant difference. As Vizio does not have any true 1080p plasmas (all are 768 x 1366), the difference might be pretty minimal.

thanks for responding quickly.
The Toshiba A3 deal on amazon was too good to turn down.

As I said, the Vizio is only 1080i - and even though I currently use HDMI, I also often use the toslink out for the DD.

HD DVD and Blu-Ray do use HDCP, but they do not, AFAIK, do a handshake with the TV like a DVR does. There were plans to do just that, but I believe those were dropped back in '06. I googled "hd dvd hdcp" and the first hit was an article from '06 saying just that.

I don't know of any way to test HDCP. If it worked at one time and stopped working after a software upgrade, I would suspect the upgrade broke something. If it worked after the upgrade, then the DVR might be the culprit and I'd try a "hard" reboot or another DVR. If neither is the case, then I have no idea how to test the PJ short of connecting to another HDTV with HDMI.
My understanding was HDCP was not implemented when it first came out. So I'm still confused. Did Cox turn HDCP on a few months ago, or did they changed some spec on their HDCP so my PJ is no longer compatible. My PJ is out of warrantee now:mad:

My understanding was HDCP was not implemented when it first came out. So I'm still confused. Did Cox turn HDCP on a few months ago, or did they changed some spec on their HDCP so my PJ is no longer compatible. My PJ is out of warrantee now:mad:I think you are confusing issues. AFAIK, Cox has used HDCP for a long time, if not since day one. What they have implemented most recently is the DRM 5c stuff that won't let you record certain channels/content via firewire. I don't know of any changes to the HDCP stuff, but I wouldn't rule it out either (or whatever else they are doing to upgrade things). SARA 1.89 has been out now for more than several mothns, before DST, so I doubt that is the issue unless your problems started way back when DST started across the country.

I think you are confusing issues. AFAIK, Cox has used HDCP for a long time, if not since day one. What they have implemented most recently is the DRM 5c stuff that won't let you record certain channels/content via firewire. I don't know of any changes to the HDCP stuff, but I wouldn't rule it out either (or whatever else they are doing to upgrade things). SARA 1.89 has been out now for more than several mothns, before DST, so I doubt that is the issue unless your problems started way back when DST started across the country.Dave, I sort of suspect that the HDCP version might be independent of the SARA version. However, because I have calibration customers that have been impacted by HDCP changes, I've noticed that things changed around the DST change. However, that does not mean that there might have been other changes along the way.

I think you are confusing issues. AFAIK, Cox has used HDCP for a long time, if not since day one. What they have implemented most recently is the DRM 5c stuff that won't let you record certain channels/content via firewire. I don't know of any changes to the HDCP stuff, but I wouldn't rule it out either (or whatever else they are doing to upgrade things). SARA 1.89 has been out now for more than several mothns, before DST, so I doubt that is the issue unless your problems started way back when DST started across the country.
What about the flags they talked about in the beginning? They were going to flag shows that could not be recorded, recorded and played one time or recorded and played anytime. Is that concept dead?

What about the flags they talked about in the beginning? They were going to flag shows that could not be recorded, recorded and played one time or recorded and played anytime. Is that concept dead?I believe that what was not implemented for flags was the mandatory use of them for OTA. They can (and are) be used for PPV, premium stuff (HBO) and the like (perhaps even "cable" channels like TNT).

As I understand it: HDCP is the mechanism to assure that what is receiving a digital signal will respect any flags that exist. If a particular program does not have any flags set, the HDCP mechanism still has to work.

Hey gang.

I have tried to search the forums for the answer to this, but can't. So if this is a repeat question I apologize.

I traded up from the 8000HD to the 8300HDC because it specifically showed the "First Run" recording options. And I saw a few pages back that that was an option for some with the 8300HDC.

Except mine. I am Harford County Comcast. My SARA version is 1.90.5.103 from April, 07. Is my software up to date and this is something they took out?

I attempted to ask Comcast, but the people out here are the better half of clueless.

Thanks guys!

The "First Run" option also depends on the guide data from the cable plant. TWC-ELP uses a SARA version that normally includes "First Run", but we do not have this option either.

I thought using the same SARA versions, the 8000 & 8300 had the same behavior with regard to most functions. There were some output, expansion port, and hardware speed/capacity differences.

v/r,
C-F

The "First Run" option also depends on the guide data from the cable plant. TWC-ELP uses a SARA version that normally includes "First Run", but we do not have this option either.

I thought using the same SARA versions, the 8000 & 8300 had the same behavior with regard to most functions. There were some output, expansion port, and hardware speed/capacity differences.

v/r,
C-F


If this helps, my ispguid version is 2.0.6.

Dave, I sort of suspect that the HDCP version might be independent of the SARA version. However, because I have calibration customers that have been impacted by HDCP changes, I've noticed that things changed around the DST change. However, that does not mean that there might have been other changes along the way.I quite agree, HDCP doesn't depend on any SARA update. I was just trying to pin down when the problem with the PJ started to see if it might be related to a SARA update.

What about the flags they talked about in the beginning? They were going to flag shows that could not be recorded, recorded and played one time or recorded and played anytime. Is that concept dead?Those are the DRM 5c flags (copy freely, copy once, copy never) and they have been implemented by some cableco's, they determine what can and cannot be recorded via firewire. That is separate from HDCP and the HDCP handshake between the DVR/HDTV still takes place whether or not DRM 5c has been implemented.

I believe that what was not implemented for flags was the mandatory use of them for OTA. They can (and are) be used for PPV, premium stuff (HBO) and the like (perhaps even "cable" channels like TNT).

As I understand it: HDCP is the mechanism to assure that what is receiving a digital signal will respect any flags that exist. If a particular program does not have any flags set, the HDCP mechanism still has to work.Where implemented, like here, 5c flags for local channels are "copy freely" and I believe they have to be. Others, like HBO, are "copy once" and the DVR can be the "one" copy. Some, though I haven't looked for them, may be "copy never". I believe the flag settings are up to the cableco and content provider, though I believe the cableco's are making the decisions at the moment.

And, you are right about HDCP being the mechanism, though I'm not sure how firewire works compared to TVs.

If this helps, my ispguid version is 2.0.6.FWIW, the "First Run" option has been in the SARA software since at least version 1.85. However, the guide database did not use the flag at that time. Many cableco's upgraded the guide database when they loaded version 1.88. 1.88 (or maybe it was 1.89) also added the "New" indicator to the Guide display. There is some info on this in the First Post where it discusses releases 1.88/1.89.

I do not know about ispguid version 2.0.6 and what flags it contains or if that even has anything to do with the guide. AFAIK, that is a local software package that not all cableco's use (at least it doesn't show up in my list of software packages). I also don't know that the name "ispguid" is not misleading to begin with and may not have anything to do with the "Guide", etc.

I quite agree, HDCP doesn't depend on any SARA update. I was just trying to pin down when the problem with the PJ started to see if it might be related to a SARA update.
I know the PJ/HDMI was working in Mid April, because I just had it wired and installed. It was like 6-8 weeks later when the HDMI quit. Sorry I couldn't give a better time frame. It didn't seem like a big deal at the time.

I know the PJ/HDMI was working in Mid April, because I just had it wired and installed. It was like 6-8 weeks later when the HDMI quit. Sorry I couldn't give a better time frame. It didn't seem like a big deal at the time.Like The Other Dave says, Cox's HDCP could have changed and that doesn't depend on a SARA update. Perhaps there is a firmware update for the PJ available. This sounds like a software/firmware problem, not hardware.

Thanks foe the info DoubleDAZ. I did look at the first page post but really didn't see anything. It sort of annoys me that our Comcast provider is pretty much SA box only, so what they advertise on their website and in their literature is different than what they actually give their customers.

And all we wanted was first run. :) I guess the "On this day at this time slot" is going to have to be good enough.

Thanks foe the info DoubleDAZ. I did look at the first page post but really didn't see anything. It sort of annoys me that our Comcast provider is pretty much SA box only, so what they advertise on their website and in their literature is different than what they actually give their customers.

And all we wanted was first run. :) I guess the "On this day at this time slot" is going to have to be good enough.Comcast, like other cable companies, use both SA & Motorola products - it all depends on the particular system and what it was built for. For example, Comcast in Howard County MD uses SA boxes, yet in the adjacent Montgomery county they use Motorola. Though there are pros and cons to each I vastly prefer the SA box.

Thanks foe the info DoubleDAZ. I did look at the first page post but really didn't see anything. It sort of annoys me that our Comcast provider is pretty much SA box only, so what they advertise on their website and in their literature is different than what they actually give their customers.

And all we wanted was first run. :) I guess the "On this day at this time slot" is going to have to be good enough.It all depends on who they bought and what hardware they were using. Eventually, after OCAP, most of this may not be a problem. You should be able to buy your brand of choice at BB.

If you haven't already, I would call or email them indicating others have the First Run option and you wish they'd upgrade their guide database, etc., to make better use of the software and DVR.

for the past year or more we have been in a transition from adelphia to TWC. i just received a package in the mail outlining all the changes with the new TWC system that is becoming active on Dec.5th. it says they are adding "more than 100 additional channels" best i can tell looking at the channel line up we're getting about 12 more HD channels. also says there will be a new digital guide software that will be pushed through on the 5th. does this mean Navigator? or is the guide software separate from the operating system?

Hi to all boardmembers.

I have the SA8300HD and 1.89.22.2 sara.

Connected to tv with component and left and right audio cable.

Problem has been with NBC HD channel only.

I lose speech and all sound that would normally come from center channel on a 5.1 audio system. (IMHO)

It looks like I'm getting the surround sound only. Since its not dead silence.
could hear distant phone ringing and soft music

It happened last time on Life show 11/28. The last one third of the show it was like this.

I called cox but they couldnt answer me or didnt have any problem with the broadcast.

Is this problem most likely the box or is it broadcast issue ?

EDITED:

I forgot to include that during the commercial break in between the sound was normal

I forgot to include that I watched Life from the dvr, I recorded the show, so I did not watch it live.

Hi to all boardmembers.

I have the SA8300HD and 1.89.22.2 sara.

Connected to tv with component and left and right audio cable.

You neglected to state how you are connecting to the 5.1 audio system. If you are not using a coaxial or optical connection directly to the audio system from the SA8300HD then you have never been outputting a true 5.1 surround sound, and your system is only "virtualizing" the output.

I dont have a 5.1 system.

Just left and right stereo from the tv from left and right output from the box

EDITED"

I used 5.1 acronyms to describe the audio that I heard.

So what I'm trying to say is the box send surround audio on left and right stereo, 2 channel output

well guys it finally happened. after a year of waiting for the change over to be complete from Adelphia to TWC. today they pushed through the Passport software and added about 100 new channels. so I'm off to the passport thread and to change my profile. its been real interesting. but I'm sure the passport thread is just as interesting. I'm sure the old timers (the Dave's, riverside,xnappo ect)are there too.

I'm sure the old timers (the Dave's, riverside,xnappo ect)are there too.Much to the dismay of some, we are never too far away. :)

Is there any difference in HD/digital audio capabilities between an 8300HD-DVR and an 8300HDC?

If so, which is better (video and audio wise)? I am running HDMI video and optical audio......

Is there any difference in HD/digital audio capabilities between an 8300HD-DVR and an 8300HDC?

If so, which is better (video and audio wise)? I am running HDMI video and optical audio......

It was my understanding that the only difference between the two is the physical location of the cable card, ie one you insert and the other is inside the unit. Beyond that all functionality is the same. I could be wrong about that though.