Glad it worked. I learned alot about the zoneinfo compiler (zic) on linux and tzdata rules.

It's working great on my units. It may be my imagination but with the diagnostics disabled it seems to change channels and shows video just a little bit faster......and the programming guide seems to load faster too

Well one of my boxes is acting a little weard, I updated all of my boxes with 2.7.15 then I went and upgraded all of them except my dad's with 2.9.2. When I went to try to update his with 2.9.2 and 2.9.3, his box shows the please wait message, goes blank and tries to access the mem stick. While this happens, the box shows a blinking power light and after a few minutes stops accessing the sitck but the power light is still blinking, apparently stuck in a infinite loop. I unplug the box and the mem stick and restart it, the box seems just fine. The updates seem to be installed but when I look at the sys info it says the version is still 2.7.15 and no extra menus are installed. The weard thing is that the box seems to accknowledge the time now.

I figured that my dad had a diffrent box than the others...than again what do you guys think?

Well one of my boxes is acting a little weard, I updated all of my boxes with 2.7.15 then I went and upgraded all of them except my dad's with 2.9.2. When I went to try to update his with 2.9.2 and 2.9.3, his box shows the please wait message, goes blank and tries to access the mem stick. While this happens, the box shows a blinking power light and after a few minutes stops accessing the sitck but the power light is still blinking, apparently stuck in a infinite loop. I unplug the box and the mem stick and restart it, the box seems just fine. The updates seem to be installed but when I look at the sys info it says the version is still 2.7.15 and no extra menus are installed. The weard thing is that the box seems to accknowledge the time now.

I figured that my dad had a diffrent box than the others...than again what do you guys think?

Are you using the linux or FAT/.bin file on the USB stick?

That isn't adding up. What version is your Dad's box? If you are using the .bin file, I would make a key using Linux and try that. The .bin file is actually a "user upgrade". The linux is a reinstall.

The only way the time would be fixed is if the update replaced the files in the /usr/share/zoneinfo on the flash that is used to boot. This should not have happened unless the upgrade was successful. Remember there are two sets of NAND flash. The box boots off of only one at a time. It doesn't toogle unless the update is successful.

Provide some additional info and we (someone on the forum) will try to help.

I am using the .bin file, I don't know what's going on....This box is not acting like the other ones I upgraded.
It should have worked, I used the .bin file on all of my other boxes (I have about 5)
My Dad's box is software version 2.7.15 untuched since the last major usd update. I will try to make a linux key and see if that does the trick.

Thanks.

I suggest you try it again.
it takes quite awhile to copy the file then reboot. you begin to wonder if something went wrong. when my box finished mine started in standby mode both lights red. i had to turn it on..

Did it ever tell you to remove the USB stick?

Hello,
I have two USDTV Hisense Digital Recievers bought from ebay and both must have a firmware problem. Because when doing a channel scan both lock up on the local PBS , KET (channel 42). They cannot be manually added either. It shows fine signal strength but no picture.
I contacted KET and they gave me this website. The boxes show
software 2.7.15(2.4.18-15) hardware db2020. Any advise or help with contacts for the firmware upgrade is greatly appreciated.
Thank You!

Where are you located (maybe someone else in your area can chime in)?
Do all other stations come in fine and show both video and audio?
What video connection are you using (composite, s-video or component)?
What % strength does the Adjust Antenna show on KET?

You can upgrade to the 2.9.3 version. It may or may not help. Since we don't know the difference between 2.7.15 and 2.9.1, there may have been something to help the issue. The 2.9.2 and 2.9.3 did not put in any changes to fix that type of problem.

Try upgrading one of the boxes to 2.9.3:

http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=5022af3ae69122e24012e8015643d9c8b112cc0853efd9eb

In case they are of any use Here are a couple of posts, elsewhere about the KET+Hisense receiver issue :

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11007688#post11007688

Including Response from KET engineer :

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=11017760&postcount=3095

-----

FWIW, personally I have Hisense DB2010 (purchased at Walmart in 2005, non-subscriber box) - using firmware ver 2.5.61 (2.4.18-7) and can decode KET digital services (KET1~4) fine, I receive them via KET's Covington, KY ( N KY) transmitter. Given I've heard of some issues with this box+their signal, I've been reluctant to upgrade the firmware on it from the older version on my box, since for the most part it works just fine - my only real issue with it is the DST "issue" and it currently being "off" an hour for the EPG info.

Note I also currently usually use the Hisense receiver only with an antenna set up to receive Dayton, OH stations only(in dirfferent direction from Cincinnati+N KY stations), however so I haven't done any extensive testing with them - But, I Did just climb into attic to switch the antenna feeds around so my other antenna setup is fed into the bedroom with the DB2010, to "try it" to make sure I didn't remember it wrong, and it decoded the KET services (including currently HD on KET3) just fine, but there were some minor glicthes involving the "signal meter" sticking on screen+KET2 guide info showing up for KET3, and the inability to tune to KET2/3 "directly" from the EPG grid screen (after switching to another channel then channel up/down through KET1/2/3/4/etc, the signal meter info/etc. didn't "stick on screen" and all seemed well).

Do note that The way William has explained how KET has things "set up" however, I can't say I'm 100% certian, but I don't think it should matter which of their transmitters one receives them from -- In other words, I think it should work "the same" no matter which KET transmitter you're receiving, except for example, in Lexington, you'd see the KET program streams remap from WKLE-DT 42 to 46.1~4 instead of as in my case from WCVN-DT 24 remapping to # 54.1~4 .... an abbreviated version which I think is hopefully accurate enough is, Basically, KET encodes everything in Lexington (it isn't reencoded at transmitter site), and the PSIP VCT info (and TSID for each transmitter) is "rebranded" at the transmitter site ...

Hope some of that helps ...

FWIW, personally I have Hisense DB2010 (purchased at Walmart in 2005, non-subscriber box) - using firmware ver 2.5.61 (2.4.18-7) and can decode KET digital services (KET1~4) fine, I receive them via KET's Covington, KY ( N KY) transmitter. Given I've heard of some issues with this box+their signal, I've been reluctant to upgrade the firmware on it from the older version on my box, since for the most part it works just fine - my only real issue with it is the DST "issue" and it currently being "off" an hour for the EPG info.

Great info. Thanks.

If you want to give the 2.9.3 a try, it has a feature to toggle back. Since there are two NAND flash (one with your 2.5.61 and one with ???), it will upgrade and install to the ???. If you don't like the 2.9.3, you can flip the switch and go back to boot off of 2.5.61. It would also be a good experiment for the KET (if you are willing) and you could post if you see any difference. It will also fix the DST issue.

If you do upgrade to 2.9.3, please use the linux verison. I don't know if the mmstartup will mount a vfat on the 2.5.61.

If you do upgrade to 2.9.3, please use the linux verison. I don't know if the mmstartup will mount a vfat on the 2.5.61.

Throwing caution to the wind, tried upgrading it from 2.5.61 to 2.9.3 using the windows version+following the instructions in the README_windows.txt - i.e. used fat32 volume, no volume label+with filename usdigital_update.bin from file downloaded/extracted from the 2.9.3 zip archive from windows update folder at your mediafire site, plugged in USB stick into DB2010, then unplugged the unit/plugged it back in :

It didn't work for some reason(as you say, perhaps it may be because 2.5.61 may not be able to mount the fat32 volume in order to perform the upgrade in the first place?) ==== Nothing happened (other than Red LED on USB stick lighting up) ---

After inserting usbstick with unit plugged in, then uplugging A/C, then plugging it back in(I waited a while before plugging it back in) the box powered up as normal with the USB stick inserted, the "usdigital" blue screen appeared, and I got a message I didn't have time to read before it powered itself off (something to do with the box is going to enter stand by mode/etc ) ... Note that it does the same thing if a USB stick wasn't inserted and you unplugged the unit/plug it back in .... I went ahead and waited about 15 minutes to see if anything else happened, but it didn't ... powering back up/etc, the Box functions as normal and firmware wasn't updated .... Tried it a 2nd time "just in case", same thing happened ....

Anyway, as for trying the linux version --- unless there is a utility available for win32 that would let me format ext2 on USB stick, otherwise it would probably be a bit too inconvienent for me to mess with because :

#1). Latest Linux distrubitions I have are on a (non-bootable) "spring 1994 Linux Quarterly" CD ....

#2). I'm on dialup + (sorry!) but it is not really worth it to me to try to download or purchase a Linux distrubition on CD just to upgrade the firmware on this USDTV box, especially as for my needs it's working fine currently just as it is ..... Yeah, it would be nice to get the DST "fix", but who knows when TPTB might change the DST "dates" again, anyway, LOL ....

Sorry I couldn't be of more help ...

Nitewatchman - thanks for trying. Basically, the older mmstartup script does not issue the mount -t vfat command.

If someone knows how to create an ext2 bootable filesystem on a usb stick from windows, please post. I've looked around and can't find a free solution.

If someone knows how to create an ext2 bootable filesystem on a usb stick from windows, please post. I've looked around and can't find a free solution.

Found a very nice dd utility for windows (http://www.chrysocome.net/dd). I used it to create an image of a ext2 formatted 16MB USB drive with the 2.9.3 software on it.

So, if you don't have access to linux and are on an older version of the software (pre 2.7.15), you can go here for a solution:

http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=5022af3ae69122e24012e8015643d9c8b112cc0853efd9eb

Look in the usingPre_2.7.15 folder. There is a zip file that contains the dd command and the image. There is a README-usdtv.txt that has some instructions. I don't expect too many people to need this. If you are on dial up, the zip is around 11MB.

This is really for people who don't have access to Linux and are running on an older version of the software that will not recognize the .bin file from a FAT (the mmstartup script doesn't mount -t vfat).

I used it to create an image of a ext2 formatted 16MB USB drive with the 2.9.3 software on it.....

This is really for people who don't have access to Linux and are running on an older version of the software that will not recognize the .bin file from a FAT (the mmstartup script doesn't mount -t vfat).


Tried it, nothing happened - Maybe I'm doing something wrong/missing something? (followed directions in readme file precisely, more info below) ...

Same behavior on the DB2010 as I got with the windows *.bin 2.9.3 upgrade version - I.e. after plugging box back in with USB stick plugged in, LED at end of USBstick is lit up-* , I get the USdigital screen for a bit, then it enters "standby mode" with the quick the "entering standy mode" message ...

* - However, note that when first plugging it in I did observe this time that the LED quickly blinks 17 times in a "led off/on" manner, then 2 more times less "substantially", then LED is just "on" until box is unplugged or USBstick is removed - also I didn't check to see whether or not that happened with the "windows" version with USB stick FAT32 FS ....

The command :

dd if=x293.dd of=\\.\j:

[Note in my case "J:" being the drive letter for USB stick]

Seemed to work, the LED at end of USB stick "blinked" as if it were writing while DD.exe was running, and after it ran it reported :

31584+0 records in
31584+0 records out

------------------------

Note I'm using a 128MB USB stick (only one I have) ... if that's of any interest ...

-------------------------

Anyway, don't know what is going on here, but thanks much for setting that up, hopefully it will be of some use for others ...

sorry, I'm quite rusty on *nix, as it's been about 8 years since I've played around with any of it, and my "playing around with it" was somewhat limited in nature + what I did learn I certianly don't remember a lot of it ...

But, I was going to say earlier, I do have Sun Solaris 8 for x86 "in a box" and about 8 years ago had installed it on a P233MMX machine/played around with it a bit -- Like I say, I don't remember too much about it or if it support ext2/etc (or even USB support in the version I have), but I do have a PII 350 machine(440bx) with USB ports on it gathering dust somewhere in the garage ... I also still have the P233MMX machine that I had installed solaris on previously, but it doesn't have USB ports, and I don't have a ISA or PCI card with USB ports, either ...

If it would be of some use + the hardware is supported to "enough" of a degree, It might be a while before I can get around to it but I could install solaris on that machine and see what happens ...

At this point though, I'm not sure what good it would do, since this didn't work ... ... Just a wild thought, assuming the FS and file on the USBstick is OK(I can't tell/check it with WinXP filemanager) I wonder if its possible there's a jumper or something that needs to be changed on DB2010 in order to allow for upgrades ? Or, I can't imagine why, but who knows -- something silly like I need to have video mode set for 480i composite/Svideo instead of 1080i/component ? Or, perhaps there's something "wrong" with my DB2010 concerning reading from the USB port/etc ...

I guess the good thing is, while I'd like to try it(if only for the DST fix), I don't really "need" the upgrade (and even KET decodes fine on my box+with 2.5.61) -- I mostly would just like to test the new version with KET given that I know several folks (including jbberry) have reported problems decoding them with the DB2010 boxes (perhaps involving some firmware versions/etc) but I could be mistaken, but I don't think we have a "list" of which firmware works with them and which doesn't, or a really good idea of what might be causing the problem or going on ...

sorry, I'm quite rusty on *nix, as it's been about 8 years since I've played around with any of it, and my "playing around with it" was somewhat limited in nature + what I did learn I certianly don't remember a lot of it ...
Nitewatchman do you have a family member or friend that has access to dsl that could help you download a image of the dynebolic live cd. from dynebolic dot org latest version 2.5.2 DHORUBA

Like you I had to basically relearn linux and this cd helped a lot..

I used it to make my usb stick. It is very easy to use this version of linux after it boots. You use midnight commander and the terminal to prepare the usb stick...

You still have to follow dogleg69's instructions in the readme file for linux. But it is very easy to do using the dynebolic cd

Good luck!

Nitewatchman do you have a family member or friend that has access to dsl that could help you download a image of the dynebolic live cd. from dynebolic dot org latest version 2.5.2 DHORUBA


No, But thanks for the suggestions/thoughts. Also note I am in rural area, while there are some options available, my "high-speed" internet connection options at present are too expensive to be worth it for what I need/use internet for - someday hopefully that will change however.

Also, again Do please Understand that my DB2010 receiver works just fine for me as it is, so I have no need to upgrade the firmware, and am also in no big hurry to try find a way to try to get a firmware upgrade to work ...

Also, again Do please Understand that my DB2010 receiver works just fine for me as it is, so I have no need to upgrade the firmware, and am also in no big hurry to try find a way to try to get a firmware upgrade to work ...

:) I got your message loud and clear. I was trying to recreate an older set to simulate your 2.5.61 and try an upgrade for you. However, I bricked one of my boxes when I was messing around with it. I corrupted the flash. :( Not too pleased with myself for that one.

If you want to try and work through an upgrade path/solution, post here. Thanks for trying what you did and contributing to the effort.

:) I got your message loud and clear. I was trying to recreate an older set to simulate your 2.5.61 and try an upgrade for you. However, I bricked one of my boxes when I was messing around with it. I corrupted the flash.


Bummer! That "sort of thing" really wasn't what I was getting at, but I certianly don't want that to happen, either.

Anyway, as long as I can go back to 2.5.61 if necesssary, as long as it isn't too inconvienient, I'm more than willing to try the new version "for the good of everyone" or anyone it might help, and for the "fun" of getting it to work/testing it/etc and "see what happens" (as long as I can go back to current version if I have problems) ...

I'm just saying, the reason I posted here was to provide some info regarding jbberry's problem. And, while I would be glad to test the newer 2.9.3 version to see if it works with KET here as well, as I noted before, given that I'm on a slow dialup connection/etc and have no other reason currently to install, or try to find/etc. a Bootable CD with a linux distribution if necessary, I'm not going to go TOO far out of my way about it to try to get it to work, as there is no need to do so, and it isn't like I don't have plenty of other things to do ;) ...

Now, that being said, if that is next step to try, if I run across a inexpensive, recent Linux distribution on CD/etc somewhere in my "travels" at some point (or something along those lines), then surely I'll likely "pick it up" and give the linux version a try + post about it here ... If that indeed is the "next step" to try, If It does work out, it might be a while (possibly a long while) before that happens ....

Or, is there a "lite" version of Linux that would work (preferably bootable I can burn onto a CD), say that wouldn't be more than a ~40ish MB or so download? I've done as big as about a 70MB Download overnight via dial-up connection or with bit-torrent with success, but files that big are sometimes a pain to download if the connection degrades due to poor line conditions (which seems to happen here occasionally at odd times in the middle of the night) ...


If you want to try and work through an upgrade path/solution, post here.

Certianly, don't mind trying that. However I don't want YOU (or anyone else) to go too far out of your way about it either, since it is not necessary for me to upgrade, other than to "see if we can get it to work" for upgrading from the older version, and what happens with it+KET, in case it is of any use for others ....

If the dd command didn't work, I doubt you getting a Linux CD will work either. Both *should* produce the same image on the flash. No worries about me bricking the unit. I have been fortunate not to do it yet :)

I will work on trying to revive the box and see if I can figure something out. If so, I'll let you know. I work on this because I enjoy it -- only do it when I have time (like everyone, time comes and goes). I appreciate you trying and the info.

If the dd command didn't work, I doubt you getting a Linux CD will work either. Both *should* produce the same image on the flash.


Yeah, I thought that using the DD would work, and that perhaps it would have issued some sort of error while running it if it didn't get written to the stick ok ...

I'm just hoping there is not some sort of "hardware" issue involved with my unit regarding capability to upgrade it at all, wish there was a way I could find out because if so, I'd think there's no use in trying anything farther on this, unless it might be benficial with someone else using 2.5.61/etc ...

I will work on trying to revive the box when you say you bricked a box does it just sit there and the leds flash...one of my boxes did something like that and I kept doing the revert flash sequence and it finally came back up to run then I reflashed it at least twice then it finally took the upgraded software

It made me think one of the sets of flash chips had gone belly-up

Maybe something similiar happened to your box

Let us know your solution if you find one.......

question: What are you people doing?? :) I just purchased one of these db2010's from ebay and am trying to get it working. I tried reading the last few pages but couldn't make a whole lot of sense of it all. What are the benefits of the new firmwares? I am trying to get mine to work with a crappy $20 Philips antenna w/ very limited success. All the channels have constant dropouts.

What are the benefits of the new firmwares? I am trying to get mine to work with a crappy $20 Philips antenna w/ very limited success. All the channels have constant dropouts.

Take a look at the release notes on the mediafire link. How far are you away from source? These boxes are not as sensitive as the newer tuners. However, they still work well and the EPG and picture quality are very nice.

I have found that it comes down to the signal you feed it. I have 2 antennas (a large one to pull 70 miles and a small one to pull 35 miles -- in opposite directions). I had to experiment quite a bit in order to get everything to work properly.

For example, I had both antennas on a 30ft tower. The signal strength was terrible for both. The antennas were stacked about 1 foot on top of each other. Put the smaller one about 15ft lower. That helped out alot. Now, my understanding was you can stack antennas like I had tried, but it didn't work in practice.

Then I ran both to a splitter in reverse and took that single output to an amplifier. The signal strength was still not too good. So, I took each antenna to their own amplifier. Combined the signals after amplifiication. Then split it out to the rest of the house (8 ways). Signal strength is 94-97% on all stations (and analog looks great too).

Just giving you an example to say that I had to spend a bit of time trying things to get it right. There are tons of factors.

As far as the newer version of software, here are the release notes:

2.9.1 - 2006-05-22
-----

Last known release before all of the USDTV engineers were let go because of bankrupcty.
Do not know the difference between 2.7.15 (last offical release) and 2.9.1.



2.9.2 - 2008-01-29
-----

- Update the system time each time the power is turned off using the current channel.
- Expose the diagnostic, revert/toggle NAND flash and nightly update menus.
- Comment out the auto software update (therefore we shouldn't need the nighty update menu).
- Minor change to the System Info screen to clarify version and point people to Proserv (who is the
reason I was able to upgrade my subscription box in the first place - so a kudos to him).




2.9.3 - 2008-03-17
-----

- Update the /usr/share/zoneinfo files with the new DST rules. Fixes the daylight saving time issue.
- Add the password to the prompt for the serial comm -- now reads "Password (xyzzy):"
- Turn off debug statments to console (for performance consideration -- didn't see much improvement though)
- By defualt, turn off gathering statistics (for performance consideration). You can enable stats
via the Diagnostics menus from the Setup.

Thanks dogleg. I knew it couldn't be that easy. I'll just have to experiment some more. So what is the best inside antenna going these days?

2.9.3 Sweet! My in-laws will never understand what you've done for
their EDTV. But I do appreciate what you've done.
Regards
Salty

So my Sony HDD250 bricked itself about two weeks ago, and I had to pull out my USDigital box which had been in a closet for quite a while. I bought this box in Wallyworld in 2004, and I think I had the original software. It was was a pretty bad interface, especially after the SonyTVGOS which worked really well for me (despite other's problems with it). I knew a friend who had bought the same box a few months later had a slightly better EPG, so I search, and would up back here on AVSForum (DOn't all roads lead to Rome?).

I found my old USB drive, and it was pretty simple to use Dogleg's link to download the files for the USB drive, and the self-install was amazingly simple. The upgrade took on the first try, and was really made simple, even though I had worked backwards from the last few pages and did not know about the wait time, etc. The other thing I did not know was that Dogleg had actually modded the upgrade. It meshes so perfectly with the original software, that I thought it was a USDigital release (remember I did not know about the bankruptcy...my unit was in a closet!)

So thanks Dogleg! I am incredibly impressed with what you have done, and have taken this box from a pain to something I enjoy using!

Darren

P.S. Has anyone else noticed you can scroll the program info both forward in time and to other channels with the arrows around the "ok" button.? Its a nice feature I don't think existed before the upgrade. My only current gripe is I still think I am not getting full EPG info as some descriptions stop in mid-sentence.

So thanks Dogleg! I am incredibly impressed with what you have done, and have taken this box from a pain to something I enjoy using!

Thanks for sharing your experience. I'm glad the upgrade worked. I have to give the credit to the MetroMedia guys in Flordia (who were purchased by USDtv). They did a very nice job with the architecture to allow this to be possible. From what I can tell from my research, they were a very talented team. Also kudos to some of the early forum guys that got into this box - niacin, gpsfan, codeman, keith721.

If you were on the USDtv/MetroMedia team, please post here and let us know if it is possible to make this into a DVR (hardware wise namely). I don't want to put the work into trying it if the USB 1.1 won't support it. I have looked into adding DVR functionality and it will take quite a bit of work -- scheduling interface, database or persistence store, event management, decode signal, storage management of USB mounted external disk. All of that without a proper development and test setup. It would take a while.

Since the ATI Xilleon has a built in encode/decode, I think it would be possible to decode the signal once written to disk. I just don't think the USB 1.1 will support the needed throughput for HD quality. But, I'm not an expert on that subject.

Could also possibly add an mp3 jukebox feature. Put your mp3's on the external drive and playback thru the audio out of this box. But, media center and others already do this (if you have an extender).

DISCLAIMER: I was never employed or knew anyone at MetroMedia or USDtv (aside from being a USDtv customer). Just think they did a nice job with their product.

Pardon my ignorance, everyone but I'm really new to all this. I just bought a Hisense DB-2010 from ebay a couple of days ago and I think I already screwed it up. I need helpl! Please! Right out of the box, all I did was plug in my hd antenna and did an auto scan. It worked! I got all my local hd channels. Well, in playing around with the unit navigating thru the menus, I musta made a wrong selection somewhere in the menu. It rebooted then came back up to what looks like the factory default settings. I did a scan and found no channels. I'm lost! I think I need to flash it?? Can someone direct me to where I can get the flash?

Thanks!!!

This is where the software is located:

http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=5...12cc0853efd9eb

However, if it scans and doesn't find anything, that usually means the tuner is bad -- I have had a tuner go bad on me.

Can you tell us exactly what you did or what you see on the screen (colors, text, anything will help).

Now if it does scan and finds channels, but then tells you to call USDTV, then you reverted to a subscription box. You will need the "fromService" software.

One thing you can try, let the box boot up and get stable. Then try the following sequence:

Red Guide
Program Info
Aspect
Program Info
1 (one)

It tells it to boot off the other NAND flash.

(DarrenK) "I still think I am not getting full EPG info as some descriptions stop in mid-sentence."

while in the program guide press (program info) and it will pop up a text box on top of the program guide with space for more text.

"One thing you can try, let the box boot up and get stable. Then try the following sequence:

Red Guide
Program Info
Aspect
Program Info
1 (one)

It tells it to boot off the other NAND flash."

Will this sequence rollback the box from a newer firmware to the originally installed firmware?

"One thing you can try, let the box boot up and get stable. Then try the following sequence:

Red Guide
Program Info
Aspect
Program Info
1 (one)

It tells it to boot off the other NAND flash."

Will this sequence rollback the box from a newer firmware to the originally installed firmware?

Well, it will perform the toggle. There are two sets of NAND flash chips that hold software on them (active and passive). Say you get a box off of ebay and it is on 2.7.15. Then you upgrade to 2.9.3. So, 2.9.3 is the active bootable software. If you issue the above sequence, it will tell the box to boot from the other NAND flash which in this example would be 2.7.15.

So, it performs a toggle. It will not restore some old/orignal version of software.

Did that answer the question or were you asking something different?

Yes dogleg69, you answered my question. Just wanted to be sure if I have a problem with the last update that I could still get back to the previous installed firmware.

Thanks!

I love my USDTV box! Thanks to dogleg and the others here I have been able to get it working great! It actually works great with a regular old antenna too! wow!

But, I did notice a few things....

It gets hot. Anyone know if it would be easy to add a simple PC fan inside the unit? There's plenty of room, we'd just need to get the correct power for the fan from somewhere. Anyone have the shematics.. or want to go poking around for a place to connect it?

I'm new to the HD world. My TV is a magnavox LCD, but it isn't HD or widescreen. On the channels broadcasting at 1920x1080 they just appear as a smaller square. Black bars on all four sides. If I put it on zoom 1, it all fits. Any advice?

Also, if I pump the signal out the componant cables to my DVD recorder, what is the best resolution I should choose for the best recorded picture?

I love this box! I came to this forum about a year ago asking questions. It's nice to come back and see how much activity has occured to make this really an exciting project!

tech-bum

Just wanted to be sure if I have a problem with the last update that I could still get back to the previous installed firmware.

In the 2.9.2 and above, there is a menu option to toggle/revert to boot from the other NAND Flash (so you don't have to use the remote sequence code).

Also, depending on the version you may want to go back to, you can put an older version back by using the linux reinstall packages (http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=5022af3ae69122e24012e8015643d9c8b112cc0853efd9eb) if you ever needed to do that.

It gets hot. Anyone know if it would be easy to add a simple PC fan inside the unit? There's plenty of room, we'd just need to get the correct power for the fan from somewhere. Anyone have the shematics.. or want to go poking around for a place to connect it?


I haven't heard of anyone doing this. The first run of these boxes (Proton) were about 1/2 the height. They were quite small and had two tuners. However, they would over heat. I guess that is why they made the box larger on the Hisense boxes (and dropped a tuner). I do not have any schematics. I have not had any overheating issues. However, I do not stack anything on this box and let is have plenty of air.


I'm new to the HD world. My TV is a magnavox LCD, but it isn't HD or widescreen. On the channels broadcasting at 1920x1080 they just appear as a smaller square. Black bars on all four sides. If I put it on zoom 1, it all fits. Any advice?


Since this box remembers the aspect, I set it on Zoom 1 for all my stations on my TV's that support only 480.

thank you also dogleg69
i had problems with my hisense unit and from reading the posts i have fixed it and updated the firmware.

Has anyone been successful at replacing their Hisense db2010 remote with a pre-programmed universal remote?

I'm not talking about a learning remote that can learn the IR codes.

I found that the RCA RCR6473 has pre-programmed codes for the Hisense db2010:

http://www.buy.com/prod/rca-rcr6473-6-device-infrared-universal-remote-with-dbs-support/q/loc/111/206231877.html


However, the Aspect, Parental Control, Volume, Mute and CC buttons do not work (the volume, mute and aspect buttons don't even send out a signal). This is not a big deal except for the Aspect button. It is used in some of the magic sequences and I use it to setup my 4:3 tube TVs.

Anyone found a cheap remote that will replace the orignal that does a better job than the above?

Anyone found a cheap remote that will replace the orignal that does a better job than the above?
Via topic search:

The only remote that I ever had any luck with for controlling this box was my Harmony 676 Remote by Logitech.

You can use an all for one remote, but you have to use the jp1 connector and download the code from the jp1 site (do a search for jp1 on google and ebay for everything you need).

There are a couple of Radio Shack remotes that supposedly work with the db-2010. The three in one and the 4-in-1 family favorites remote. I have not tested either of them.

On the remotecentral forum I found this post by jenilu509:

Having unsuccessfully searched for this code on the net before going through the tedium of using the remote's search feature, I thought I would post it as a public service. If you buy a "RadioShack 4-in-1 family favorites remote," the code for a Hisense TL 2020 is 0815. The RadioShack information says the code is 0748, but that did not work for me. I also emailed Hisense customer service and they never even answered my email. hope this helps!

The Sony RM-VL600 Universal Remote has a code for this receiver.
The code is 3401 and should work on either the SAT or CBL button.

I wrote the blurb about the Logitech Harmony 676. The good news is you can find these for 50 bucks or less on Amazon every now and again.
It worked first time, every time, for this and for the Samsung SIR-T351 box.

Thanks for the responses. Agree with the Harmony. I have a number of learning remotes (sony) and a Harmony 880 (which will control all the functions of the db2010).

Was trying to find a very cheap (like under $10) solution so as original remotes wear out or break, there would be a cheap alternative for people.

The problem with the RCA is that the Aspect button is not functional. This is a problem in itself for those who like to run Full Screen or Zoom 1, and most of the magic sequences also use the Aspect button.

I have also been thinking about adding a timer function to this box -- like change channel to X for Y amount of time. Would do this so I could keep the VCR/DVD recorders out there when the cutover occurs. Could front those analog VCR and DVD recorder with this box and just setup the record schedule in both.

Would anyone be interested in such a feature? How would we want it to behave (change channel even if on, only change channel if off, if off and turn on -- make sure it is turned off again, support day/day of week/series, etc...)?

Would anyone be interested in such a feature? How would we want it to behave (change channel even if on, only change channel if off, if off and turn on -- make sure it is turned off again, support day/day of week/series, etc...)?Sounds good to get some more use out of the db-2010s

I have also been thinking about adding a timer function to this box -- like change channel to X for Y amount of time. Would do this so I could keep the VCR/DVD recorders out there when the cutover occurs. Could front those analog VCR and DVD recorder with this box and just setup the record schedule in both.

Would anyone be interested in such a feature? How would we want it to behave (change channel even if on, only change channel if off, if off and turn on -- make sure it is turned off again, support day/day of week/series, etc...)?

WOW.. it'd be an awesome feature.. I desparately need the timer function. Nothing fancy.. just an event timer which works like VCRs (without any TVGOS/PSIP support) with date, time and channel number programmed. We can start with one event and possibly extend to 5 events. The event timer is the only reason I am waiting for DTVpal CECB. If you can give that feature to DB2010, it'll be really awesome, because then I can record in full blown s-video. Also some posts back, you mentioned that DVR feature addition may be possible, but what is holding back is USB1.1 may not be able to throughput the HD streams. If that's the case, I guess it's also perfectly fine even if the recording can be done in 480i/480p format in a HDD. The last time I checked about adding anything to DB2010, I saw somebody mentioning that ATI xilinx chipset spec sheet is not available publicly and hence it may not be possible to add nice fatures to DB2010.

If someone can add a timer feature or a channel reserve feature similar to the Samsung 260f, that would really be great! I really love this unit and using it to still record on the VCR is a sweet idea. :)

If someone can add a timer feature or a channel reserve feature similar to the Samsung 260f, that would really be great! I really love this unit and using it to still record on the VCR is a sweet idea. :)

I'm not familar with the 260f channel reserve feature. Would you elaborate?

The Sammy allows you to go to the program guide and choose any program in the future. When the start time of the reserved program equals the current time, the Sammy automatically changes the channel for you to the show that you reserved.

Although this is a lesser version of the full timer (which is more of a start date, start time, and selected channel data entry), it does allow you to have the channel change that day if you are not there. I do think that you do need to leave the 260f on for the unit to change the channel. I don't think it is like a VCR that goes from standby to full power then the start time of the reserved program equals the current time.

Plus, I think the USDTV channel guide only goes 12 hours into the future. It may be technically able to go father out but the Columbus, Ohio stations seem to be only sending data for the next 12 hours for the program guide (what I have experienced).

Thanks for the explaination.

Does anyone need a M-F, every X, or specific date feature? I don't know how difficult this is going to be, so I'm trying to think about it before I dive in.

On a VCR, I don't know that I have ever used the M-F date. The easiest thing would do just have say 5 timers available to that fired everyday. This would mean no calendar or having to know about the date. This would mean:

Start: 8:00pm
Duration: 1 hour
Channel: 21 (avail from the available channels not marked out on the Edit Channel List)

Have maybe 3 or 5 of those type entries. The problem with that is that if show X is on 8:00pm Monday on channel 21 and show Y is on Tuesday at 8:00pm on channel 5, then it won't work.

I'll have to figure out some type of calendar and see how hard a specific date timer will be. I know the everyday would be possible since that is the way the nightly update worked.

Work for me is very busy right now, so I don't know when this will happen. However, if anyone has more design input, please post.

Hello folks...

I was wondering if any of my fellow USDTV box owners have been watching So You Think You Can Dance and having problems with the box while it was on.

For the past week or so, I have been trying to watch it via WTLH-DT out of the Tallahassee area; each time the box gets knocked out about a minute into the show. Attempts to reboot the box have been futile. It is likely not a signal problem, since this has not happened with any other digital TV programs I have been watching on this or any other channel.

I e-mailed WTLH's chief engineer Mike Brown; he said it was an unusual problem. I sent him an e-mail link to Hisense tech support at his request.

Anyone else having this problem?

I had my box freeze up tonight watching that show. Said the signal for the station was lost and I could not change channels. The guide and menus came up but could not change the channel. Ended up unplugging and restarting the box, twice. After the show was over, the unit worked just fine. It has to be something with that show.

It probably does have something to do with the show...I have been able to watch local news and Fox's NASCAR coverage on WTLH without any problems.

I am sending your observation to the station.:)

dogleg69

Is there a way to make the db-2010 stop updating the channel list automatically? I keep picking up channels sometimes while the unit is in standby mode from all over the place I have picked up stations as far away as Indiana (reminds you of skip on am radio or cb s) of course it's not too hard to go and edit them out or just rescan......keep us updated on your timer project

dogleg69

Is there a way to make the db-2010 stop updating the channel list automatically? I keep picking up channels sometimes while the unit is in standby mode from all over the place I have picked up stations as far away as Indiana (reminds you of skip on am radio or cb s) of course it's not too hard to go and edit them out or just rescan......keep us updated on your timer project

That is a good idea. I don't know if it is possible. I also get channels that show up (seems to depend on the weather) that are not in broadcast range for this box or my antenna.

Something along the lines of maybe add the new station, but it be disabled. Then you would have to manually look at the Edit Channel List and see if there is anything you would like to enable?

So is it better to automatically show a new channel or not? I would guess that there are far fewer cases that a new channel is added to a market that is really broadcasting for that market.

What do others think about this type of change?

I like the idea of being able to toggle on/off the automatic update feature.

Is there a way to make the db-2010 stop updating the channel list automatically?

smintn - I think there will be a way to do this. I'll have to test it. It will be more work to make it configurable (via a GUI). I'd vote to have it stop updating automatically. There is already a add/replace scan GUI.

Would removing the automatic channel update cause anyone grief?

Would removing the automatic channel update cause anyone grief?:oNot me I get so tired of having to go into the edit list to remove basically phantom stations especially after a storm or two. It would be great :D ........I wish there was a way I could help you with the project but I think the tools and learning curve would be too much for me to handle.....Thanks for your time invested in what you've done so far on the db-2010

Turning it off without a GUI option is fine. I think that the current Add Channels is enough for most of us. Let us know how the change is progressing

I have been successful in turning off the automatic channel scan. Instead of doing the scan, I update the system time when the box is off (this will become important if I ever get around to creating a schedule timer).

I also notice that many of the after market remotes have the USDTV db2010 IR codes in them. However, many of the cheap ones don't support some of the buttons like Aspect, CC, Audio, etc... I have created some magic sequences for those. I also removed the dump and diag magic sequeneces (the fewer the better - and they are now exposed thru the UI menu).

After testing this, I'll post it. Going to have to travel alot the next month. Won't be able to work on the timer for a while.

This is great news! I can hardly wait for the enhancements. This is what Open Source is all about. Making the product better and extending it's functionality. Keep up the good work.

Hello all,

I just recently received my unit and was able to scan channels and watch with no problems for about a week. For the last few days my unit has not been working. I came home one day and the picture was blank. I unplugged the unit and plugged it back in and the picture remained blank. The power light and signal light are lit solidly but nothing else. I have tried holding down the power button for long periods of time to see if I could warm-reset it but this does nothing. Can someone tell me what I should do? Should I do one of the remote sequences or flash the memory? I don't know which firmware is installed but I bought it from ebay.

Thanks for any help.

For the last few days my unit has not been working. I came home one day and the picture was blank. I unplugged the unit and plugged it back in and the picture remained blank. The power light and signal light are lit solidly but nothing else. Can someone tell me what I should do? Should I do one of the remote sequences or flash the memory? I don't know which firmware is installed but I bought it from ebay.

Are both green lights on (or one green, one red, both red)? Are you using component or composit output? Do you get any audio?

problem seems to be resolved for now...

Both lights were green and I was using component. I was not getting any audio. When I got home yesterday I used the usdtvUpdate293forWindowsFAT.zip file and followed the instructions to create a usb key. I plugged in the key and the light on my key started flashing. I unplugged and replugged the unit and the lights lit green again but no image. The usb key just flashed. I then tried using the fromService293.zip file and created the usb again. Plugged it in, the key flashed, unplugged and replugged the unit and suddenly I had picture again. I checked the current bin and it was 2.7.something. I am not sure what that fromService293.zip file does but it was either plugging it into my receiver or just the constant unplugging and replugging of my unit that brought it back to life. Anyways, I reformatted the usb key again and put the 2.93 bin from usdtvUpdate293forWindowsFAT.zip on the key, plugged in the key, unplugged and replugged the receiver, updated the receiver, and watched tv all night. Man this is frustrating. I hope that the problems were due to the 2.7 bin and not due to hardware.

Thanks!

problem seems to be resolved for now...

Thanks!

Great. So, did you end up installing 2.9.3?

All the plugging and unplugging sounds weird to me. It takes a long time to upgrade (like 10 mins). Without video to see when it was finished, I have no idea what would happen. In any case, I'm glad the box is working again.

Yes I installed 2.9.3. But unfortunately something happened last night while sleeping that killed my receiver again. This morning the picture disappeared again. I have tried unplugging and replugging but no go. Unfortunately I bought this unit from ebay 6 months ago and the seller only had a 3 month warranty. Buyer beware I guess.

i bought a few recievers off of ebay.
they get bounced around during shipping.
unplug the unit take cover off check if a connector has come unplugged.
i had 2 boxes with connectors off inside causing problem.
plugged connector in box worked fine.

I'll take it apart. Do you know which connector it was?

I'll take it apart. Do you know which connector it was?
It should be obvious - mine are. They simply plug in. Are easy to unplug and plug back in - maybe that is all that is needed.

Do you have the 2010 or the ht-7012? If you have the 7012, maybe you can answer a question or two. On the back are two USB jacks, and two DB type jacks - one is marked Antenna, Do you know what the other one is for? And can you use either of the usb jacks?

Any chance that you still have the manual file? If so, could you please e-mail it to me at roybales@verizonmail.com

Radio Shack's $7.99 3 in 1 remote has the Hisense settings and capabilities - in the Satalite area. Works fine - bought one last week 6/20/2008

Radio Shack's $7.99 3 in 1 remote has the Hisense settings and capabilities - in the Satalite area. Works fine - bought one last week 6/20/2008

Excellent. Does it have the Aspect button (and does it work)?

yea the connectors are pretty obvious .
you may have one that is partially plugged in.
i would suggest unplugging each connector one at a time and plug them back in.
of course box unplugged so you don`t get shocked.

Do you have the 2010 or the ht-7012? If you have the 7012, maybe you can answer a question or two. On the back are two USB jacks, and two DB type jacks - one is marked Antenna, Do you know what the other one is for? And can you use either of the usb jacks?

I've got the 2010 so only one USB.

Dogleg69,
I have a USDTV DB2020 box. It currently has SW ver 2.7.15. I've tried updating to 2.9.2 and 2.9.3 following the instructions for formating the USB key but it doesn't take. When I plug the USB key in and unplug/replug I get the USDTV image and the key flashes but then the display changes to show "No signal - check antenna." The signal LED stays red and the power LED stays green throughout. No antenna is connected, is this the problem?

I'm curious about the PBS Channel 42 bug. Was it resolved with the newest flash updates?

Would it tend to occur if the "real" channel number is 41 while the virtual channel number is 42?

I'm curious about the PBS Channel 42 bug. Was it resolved with the newest flash updates?

Would it tend to occur if the "real" channel number is 41 while the virtual channel number is 42?Don't think so - at least two of my ebay former subscription units still on occasion stops operating on channel 41(channel 54 analog FOX/MYTV) you have to do the hold the power button in for 5 seconds for a reboot-I have 1 wally world unit that has never had a problem with channel 41 it was originally an ota unit. It seems that the channel 41 lockup is occuring on the former subscription units.....these units have been upgraded to the 2.9.3 version of firmware...

Thanks smintn.

I guess it can hang on 41 or 42. I found quite a few posts earlier in this thread about lockups on KET 42, a PBS up in KY. I looked them up and found out their vitual number is the same as their real number. 42 and 42.

But if I'm reading you right, if the lockup does occur, a reboot sorts it out and you can still get the channel later? But it doesn't happen after you upgrade to the latest firmware?

I just want make sure I have this sorted out properly because one of our PBS stations is on 42 but the "real" number is 41. I'm guessing I could get hung out to dry either way there but am I correct in assuming if I do the firmware upgrade, it won't happen? And if it does happen, I can still receive their broadcasts after I force it through the scan?

I just want make sure I have this sorted out properly because one of our PBS stations is on 42 but the "real" number is 41. I'm guessing I could get hung out to dry either way there but am I correct in assuming if I do the firmware upgrade, it won't happen? And if it does happen, I can still receive their broadcasts after I force it through the scan?I don't really know what to tell you about the channel 41 glitch I've seen. My old walmart unit is a 2010 it doesn't have the problem, one of the former subscription units is a 2020 and has the problem and I just checked out the other one with the problem its a 2010. All of my units have the latest upgrade installed. It did not seem to take care of the channel 41 problem that I have seen---after a reboot the same problem may not been seen again for hours weeks or months,,,,

I guess my big question is... can you still watch channel 41 or do you lose it?

I guess my big question is... can you still watch channel 41 or do you lose it?
Yes that channel is watchable until the unit decides to stop working then a reboot will bring it back...bring it back meaning the unit will work again with audio and video. The glitch usually involved audio and video disapearing from the screen and being unable to change channels...or sometimes all channels being blank and being able to change channels

Dogleg69,
I have a USDTV DB2020 box. It currently has SW ver 2.7.15. I've tried updating to 2.9.2 and 2.9.3 following the instructions for formating the USB key but it doesn't take. When I plug the USB key in and unplug/replug I get the USDTV image and the key flashes but then the display changes to show "No signal - check antenna." The signal LED stays red and the power LED stays green throughout. No antenna is connected, is this the problem?

If you have a USDTV image/logo, then you have a subscription box. Make sure you are getting the windows/fromService293.zip (and follow the instructions inside). If you just got the .bin file of 2.9.2 or 2.9.3, it won't work on a system that has not been convered. Those are only for FTA enabled systems.

From what you are describing, you either have the wrong file or the key is not made correctly. You do not need the antenna connected in order to write the new software to the flash. You must have the antenna connected in order to proceed through the setup once the upgrade has occured.

When you unplug/replug, it flashes (that means it is reading the stick). However, the contents are not correct. Since it is not correct, it goes ahead and boots normally. Thus, it is trying to tune a channel and says that "no antenna connected -- or whatever".

If you are sure that the box is already FTA, then you may need to try creating via linux. If you can provide more information, someone here will help out.

Does any one have a pdf copy of the DB-2010 manual?

Send email request to marsman@prodigy.net with "Hisense manual" as a subject. He'll mail it right out to you.

dogleg69

In all of work you've done on the 2010/20 have you been able to compare the firmware for the ota and subscription units and seen any differences that might be noticed?

Do you know if the difference between the operating modes(fta/subscription) of the two types of units was hardwired or just firmware?

I am mostly curious because of the channel 41 problem I have on a pair of my units and thought you may have seen a difference....

In all of work you've done on the 2010/20 have you been able to compare the firmware for the ota and subscription units and seen any differences that might be noticed?

Do you know if the difference between the operating modes(fta/subscription) of the two types of units was hardwired or just firmware?

I am mostly curious because of the channel 41 problem I have on a pair of my units and thought you may have seen a difference....

There is no difference in the hardware to my knowledge (if we are talking about db2010's -- be they walmart or usdtv). There appears to be only one codebase for both fta and subscription. The codebase sets flags to determine FTA or not. All of us are now running the fta.

I've never noticed anything hardcoded regarding frequency 41. I have never experienced the problems some are having, so it is hard for me to comment. If it were freq 2 or 69, then I would suspect a memory or arrary bounds issue.

Do you have the 2010 or the ht-7012? If you have the 7012, maybe you can answer a question or two. On the back are two USB jacks, and two DB type jacks - one is marked Antenna, Do you know what the other one is for? And can you use either of the usb jacks?

Added a db2010 and a HT7012 manuals:

http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=5022af3ae69122e24012e8015643d9c8b112cc0853efd9eb

The HT7012 just says that the second coax is "disabled". I don't have any of the Proton hardware to play with to help out.

I have also been thinking about adding a timer function to this box -- like change channel to X for Y amount of time. Would do this so I could keep the VCR/DVD recorders out there when the cutover occurs. Could front those analog VCR and DVD recorder with this box and just setup the record schedule in both.

Would anyone be interested in such a feature? How would we want it to behave (change channel even if on, only change channel if off, if off and turn on -- make sure it is turned off again, support day/day of week/series, etc...)?
What would really like would be to be able to remap the IR code.
I have a TV with TVGOS it's able to control a VCR or a cable Box and a VCR. If I could remap the IR code to those of a cable box (Just need to change channel) It would be really great.

I am a Roku HD1000 Photobridge junkie and am amazed at how simular these two boxes are. They even share the same power supply unit (PSU) and the motherboard is very simular.

from the info and pictures in this thread
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12981911#post12981911

Look at the third picture
http://rev-a-dead-roku-club.blogspot.com/

The PSU for the HD1000 fails alot and we have found out how to fix them and upgrade them to be a lot more robust. Some people even swap the PSU out for an ATX version or a Morex (brand) type. I am currently trying to Find the Kernel for the latest firmware (2.0.3X) of the Roku box and notice that they both share 1.5.18 (according to this link from a post in this thread ( http://www.linux-hacker.net/usdtv/ )), so I wonder if I can get/find the Kernel source here?

Couple questions..

Do these power supplys fail after a year or two also?
Is there a Guru that I can contact to catch up on this box and compare it to the HD1000
Anyone have the source code for the Kernel?


Now I just now found this box, that's a shocker, it was like twins seperated at birth. I don't know how I have not seen this in my 3yrs of tinkering with the HD1000. Today I was looking for info on the MMON and was looking at X-225 and found this ( http://www.elinux.org/Wiki/HiSense ) and BAM...

Thanks, Matt

EDIT: So after reading all 37 pages, I now know a little more. Also, it seems the the HD1000 PSU is only the same on the 7012 series, the 2010 uses a different type (probably due to the U-SAN one failing so much?)

EDIT #2: So after more reading in other locations as well, it looks like I may be barking up the wrong tree. The 7012 is the HiSence box with the same Xillion 225 and Power Supply Unit as the Roku HD1000.

Any HT7012 gurus here? I did ping "CharedPC" since he had pictures of his box.

Anyone know where a replacement power supply for one of the DB2010s might be found?

The one I have requires the ribbon type connector.....

Thanks

Thanks smintn.

I guess it can hang on 41 or 42. I found quite a few posts earlier in this thread about lockups on KET 42, a PBS up in KY. I looked them up and found out their vitual number is the same as their real number. 42 and 42.

But if I'm reading you right, if the lockup does occur, a reboot sorts it out and you can still get the channel later? But it doesn't happen after you upgrade to the latest firmware?

I just want make sure I have this sorted out properly because one of our PBS stations is on 42 but the "real" number is 41. I'm guessing I could get hung out to dry either way there but am I correct in assuming if I do the firmware upgrade, it won't happen? And if it does happen, I can still receive their broadcasts after I force it through the scan?
--------------------

Well I saw the same symptoms on KCET HD-Los Angeles (PBS). They broadcast on UHF 59 (Virtual Number 28). It's not doing it now, but at the time it was repeatable. Two minutes or so on 28-1 (not the other subchannels) and it would lock up and lose the signal. You couldn't change channels or simply power off. You need to hold the power button in and do a reboot.

I have a USDTV DB2020 box. It currently has SW ver 2.7.15. I think just certain shows throw it off.

keep us updated on your timer project

See attachments of some prototype screenshots. I'm still testing and getting everything to work. Here are the planned features:

- if box is off, turn on and change to timer channel
- if box was off when timer turned on, turn box off at end time
- when you turn the box on via front panel or remote, it will still tune to the last timer channel
- if box is on and timer fires, change channel (no warnings, just change)
- if box was on when timer fired, the end time will do nothing
- does not support a specific date. Valid options are every S,M,T,W,TH,F,S or M-F or Daily
- there are 10 timers
- when you upgrade, your timers will be lost (because the timers are stored in NAND flash and they can't be copied across). This can be addressed in other ways, but for now we will have to re-enter timers on update of firmware.
- the channel spinner is initialized with enabled channels (not all channels)
- if you enable/disable channels in the edit channel list, they will not show up in the timer channel spinner until you unplug the box. This is a bug, but it is not a show stopper for beta.
- the minutes spinner has 00, 05, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55. Thats 12 items in the list instead of 60 min to spin through.

This is slightly different than a VCR/DVD. I wanted the channel to change even if the box is on when the timer fires. Too many times my VCR did not record because I forgot to turn if off (which is understandable since there is a physically resource - tape - involved).

I did some user acceptance testing with my kids. They could set timers without any coaching or instruction - so the GUI passed in my opinion. Have completed the GUI, persistence store and timer logic. Still have to do some testing and negative testing before I consider it completed. I am concerned about keeping accurate time on the box. To mediate this, the time is updated when the box is off and idle using the channel setup to get the time. Need more testing on this.

Please review the screens and above functionality and make comments/suggestions. Will the above features get the job done (when/if they work)?

This is Great News! I did not expect you to make such fast progress given your time constraints. I look forward to the "official" software release.

One of the final issues is the keeping accurate internal time. A manual time entry could be added. However, I really don't want to enter/setup a time manually. I think the time will loose accuracy as time goes on, so we would continually have to update manually.

The problem is that the box was setup to get its time info from 99-1 -- the USDTV information channel. Since that is gone, the time gets updated when you:

- Set System Time via the UI
- Downloads an update (turned off in mod versions)
- downloads the epg guide. Uses each channel's stt block from the psip for that channel.

So, to get around this, I'm doing the following:

- set the system time when you request it via the UI (save the channel to timeChannel)
- when the box is off, periodically update the system time using the timeChannel
- when the system tries to set the time, only set it if the current stt block in the psip was from the timeChannel

So, this means if you can find a single channel in your area that keeps good time, it will only set the system time from that channel. It will also periodically update the system time using that channel while the box is off.

If you change the timeChannel via the GUI in Set System Time, the timers will be re-sync'd. When you save a timer, all the timers will be re-sync'd. This is an attempt to keep them as accurate as possible.

Initial testing show the timers are working. Still need more testing. If anyone is willing to help test, please let me know.

Initial testing show the timers are working. Still need more testing. If anyone is willing to help test, please let me know.Count me in for testing PM me the location of the updated firmware......;)

Let me know the information you need from testing......

Here are two questions I would like feedback on:

1) How many items do we want in the minutes spinner?

I had orginally only put them in increaments of 5 mins. However, for testing I'm using increments of two. It's not that bad because the orignal remote response is fast. However, there is no hold button down for repeating. So, would it be best to have 00-59 inclusive, every 2 mins, every 5 or what?

2) The box is in the off state and a timer #1 fires and turns the box on. Timer #2 fires before the end of timer #1 and changes channel. So, should the box turn off (since it started in the off state) at the end of timer #2? Or, should the box be left on since another timer started?

I would prefer that if the box started in the off state, it should return to the off state. However, this might confuse someone that is say chaning the channels and watching TV before the end of timer #2. The box would turn off while you were watching TV when it gets to the end of timer#2.

I coded it that if it the box starts in the off position, it will return to the off position (either manually or by the end timer). I put in a workaround that if you go to the Timers List page, it will reset the needToTurnOff flag.


If anyone has opinions on the above questions, please post. Getting closer, all test scenarios are working. I will say, creating these simple timers was much more difficult that I first thought -- mainly due to the accurate time and all the on/off scenarios.

Here are two questions I would like feedback on:

1) How many items do we want in the minutes spinner?



I reworked a spinner to allow for paging by 25% using the Ch +/- buttons. This will allow the user to use the up and down arrow to increase/decrease by 1, or the ch+/- button to scroll by 25% of the spinner.

So, the minutes spinner will have 00 - 59 inclusive. Using the ch+/-, it will roll 00, 15, 30, 45, 00, 15, ... (60/4 = 15). I don't like my VCR becuase I have to at most press the up/down 30 times.

You seem to have thought every bits and intricate details for the timer. I liked your UAT (User Acceptance Test) methodology :-).
Count me in too for testing the firmware. Currently the system time in my box is set to the time obtained from NBC. factory default was the first channel (2.1 - CBS) in the channel list. Unfortunately, CBS is always 30 min off, so I had set it to get the time from NBC.
Great work indeed..

I reworked a spinner to allow for paging by 25% using the Ch +/- buttons. This will allow the user to use the up and down arrow to increase/decrease by 1, or the ch+/- button to scroll by 25% of the spinner.

So, the minutes spinner will have 00 - 59 inclusive. Using the ch+/-, it will roll 00, 15, 30, 45, 00, 15, ... (60/4 = 15). I don't like my VCR becuase I have to at most press the up/down 30 times.

That a very good idea. I'm in to test.

With all the progress you made, do you still think there's no way to change the Ir code?

With all the progress you made, do you still think there's no way to change the Ir code?

Can you explain this in detail? I don't know enough about IR codes or how a IR receiver works.

For example, I got hold of a cheap RCA 6373 Univeral remote. It is the kind you punch in the code for a particular manufacturer and it will send out the correct signals. I can print the hex IR code when it comes in. Any button from the orignal remote printed the correct hex number. Any other IR signal sent prints hex 0xFF -- that is any and all other signals are 0xFF.

So, I don't know enough about how IR codes are mapped or how they work. If you can help educate and explain, I'll certainly look into it.

What type of codes do you have? What set of IR codes would you like to see remapped?

sorry to jump into the middle but I have a question about my (walmart) DB-2010
A few months ago it died, All I have is both signal and power LEDs flashing every half second in unison. (green) Is this bad? should I throw it out or seek further help.

Thanks

A few months ago it (db2010) died, All I have is both signal and power LEDs flashing every half second in unison. (green) Is this bad? should I throw it out or seek further help.



Have you made a serial cable so you can get into the shell to watch any error messages? Also, have you tried to upgrade the firmware?

I have not seen the double green flashing lights. It certainly sounds like the software is detecting a hardware problem and telling them to blink. I will look around and see what I can find out.

Can you explain this in detail? I don't know enough about IR codes or how a IR receiver works.

For example, I got hold of a cheap RCA 6373 Univeral remote. It is the kind you punch in the code for a particular manufacturer and it will send out the correct signals. I can print the hex IR code when it comes in. Any button from the orignal remote printed the correct hex number. Any other IR signal sent prints hex 0xFF -- that is any and all other signals are 0xFF.

So, I don't know enough about how IR codes are mapped or how they work. If you can help educate and explain, I'll certainly look into it.

What type of codes do you have? What set of IR codes would you like to see remapped?

I don't know that much myself. But here's what I think I know.
IR receiver is normally handle (in Linux) by the module LIRC (Kernel) . So if they use that module it should be fairly simple to remap the IR scan code to scan code of another machine (i.e Echo Star).

The idea here is:
#1: To be able to use any cheap remote (Has your RCA remote)
#2: To allow TV equiped with TVGOS to control the box.

If I could remap the code I would remap them to those of EchoStar Box. Echo Star will use the same IR code for the DTVPal has those for their current box . Thus allowing it to be control by TVGOS.

If you don't know much about TVGOS here's the link (http://tvguideonscreen.com/overview/digitaltv)

If we can find what they are using to control the IR we should be able to remap them, so if it's not LIBRC can you send me the list of module they are using there's probably other module to control the IR I should be able to find wich one they are using.

IR receiver is normally handle (in Linux) by the module LIRC (Kernel) . So if they use that module it should be fairly simple to remap the IR scan code to scan code of another machine (i.e Echo Star).

The idea here is:
#1: To be able to use any cheap remote (Has your RCA remote)
#2: To allow TV equiped with TVGOS to control the box.



I have an idea. Let me dig around. If the IR receiver can accept any range of frequency, then I can envision a solution for this problem.

However, when you first asked, I printed all remote codes as you would shoot it into the db-2010. All remotes I tried except for the original, the printed hex was 0xFF. However, maybe I was using an int instead of a long long or something. I'll check on a few things and get back to you.

If we can find what they are using to control the IR we should be able to remap them, so if it's not LIBRC can you send me the list of module they are using there's probably other module to control the IR I should be able to find wich one they are using.

The box does not use LIRC. It reads 1 byte from /dev/uirt0. The usdtv IR codes fit into a single unsigned char byte.

From what I have read and can tell, this type of mod would be difficult. Looking at the lirc code from lirc.org, every remote sends a different number of bytes to be read and processed (thus each config file is different).

So, it is not as simple as I thought (mapping x to y). There are different buffer lengths, pulses, repeat bits, gaps, masks, etc... for every remote. If it were using lirc, it would be more doable. As it is today, it would be pretty difficult.

If you can get the codes and lenghts for the TVGOS, then we may be able to come up with something. Does the TVGOS use lirc? If so, what does the config file look like?

Just a little suggestion but shouldn't this topic have it's own website?
I mean a website dedicated to all of the usdtv owners with it's own links, developers blog, fourm, and downloads.
That would be cool if somebody could do that.

Just a little suggestion but shouldn't this topic have it's own website?
I mean a website dedicated to all of the usdtv owners with it's own links, developers blog, fourm, and downloads.
That would be cool if somebody could do that.

Yes, agree. Since Tim Rikers site is already out there maybe he would allow it on his wiki.

I have some content that I would like to put on a site, but have not pulled a site together yet.

Anyone have suggestions where to take this?

Haven't posted here in a while. would like to know how to update to 2.9.3 also my STB does not have audio or video anymore. It has a strong signal but says the channel is off the air

Mdviewer25,
Have you tried the reset sequence (guide, aspect, exit, prog, info, 0)
or if you have the newer software you can hold the power button in for about 5 sec.
(not sure if that does a hard reset)

find 2.9.3 at the link half way up this page (#1084)
if using 2.7.15 or newer it is easy. just copy file to blank usb stick (I used sd card in usb reader) no linux formating needed like when installing 2.7.15

Since AVS went down, a few posts were lost. Just posting this for history sake.

The 2.9.4 version is ready. Thanks to kousikb, Kro, smintn, allen97 and the excellent work of the original MetroLink team, the timers are ready. Please find release notes, pics, manuals and software for the USDTV Hisense db2010 at:

http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=5022af3ae69122e24012e8015643d9c8b112cc0853efd9eb


Quick rundown-

- Added timers feature
- Add a timer from the EPG screen
- Keep the system clock upto date via a single station
- Turn off auto scanning of channels
- Keep EPG upto date while box is off


I do recommend reading the release notes when you upgrade. It has alot more detail and scenarios of how things work. If you have questions, please post.

Dogleg69, Thanks for all the time you put into this.

had some problem using the EPG timer until i re-read the notes (you have to press info button)

Thanks again, Tim

Dogleg69, I just tried 2.9.4 and must say the timer is definitely a nifty feature. You have given my box more value than it initially had. Thanks for all the work you put in. You did an excellent job with the menus. I didn't even have to read the notes to figure out how to use it.

had some problem using the EPG timer until i re-read the notes (you have to press info button)


Thanks for the kudos. You would think a simple timer would be pretty easy, but I was surprised how complex it actually was.

The EPG timer:

- press Program Info on a program from the EPG page
- that brings up the expanded description
- press OK to add that as a timer (if one is available)
- press INFO or EXIT to just close the window

That is not optimal, but since we can't add any new physical buttons, it was the cleanest I could come up with. kousikb suggested adding a timer from the EPG screen during test and I was able to design and slip it in.

Yes adding timer via the EPG is really slick and cool. You don't have to remember the timing of the program and the duration while adding it (assuming EPG info is correct). What I do is I add the timer via EPG, and after adding I go the timer screen and check the timer configured and set the DVD recorder timer accordingly. I missed the prime time broadcast for the olympic opening ceremony. So I searched in the EPG if there is a late night repeat, and it sure did at 2:30AM. So I set the timer to record from 2:30AM to to till the end. And now I have the opening ceremony in DVD too and lot of my friends are watching it, because they missed it too.

Hi Dogleg69:

Just wanted to thank you for your work on the firmware. I currently have the DB2010 with FW 2.7.11. I followed your instructions to bring it up to 2.93, then 2.94. All is working fine. My main reason for upgrading to the newer firmware is to see if it resolves my problem with the local PBS lock up. I am out of Southern California. When watching 28.1 (KCET) especially with non HD programs, it will lock up after a minute or two. If I were to watch the NATURE show which is in HD, the lock up does not occur. When the HD show ends and the commerical appear (non HD), the Hisense box will lock up in a few seconds.

I will also try out the new options you put into the 2.9x FW.

Thank you again for your instructions and your work. :D

Thanks for the kudos. You would think a simple timer would be pretty easy, but I was surprised how complex it actually was.

The EPG timer:

- press Program Info on a program from the EPG page
- that brings up the exanded description
- press OK to add that as a timer (if one is available)
- press INFO or EXIT to just close the window

That is not optimal, but since we can't add any new physical buttons, it was the cleanest I could come up with. kousikb suggested adding a timer from the EPG screen during test and I was able to design and slip it in.

My main reason for upgrading to the newer firmware is to see if it resolves my problem with the local PBS lock up. I am out of Southern California. When watching 28.1 (KCET) especially with non HD programs, it will lock up after a minute or two. If I were to watch the NATURE show which is in HD, the lock up does not occur. When the HD show ends and the commerical appear (non HD), the Hisense box will lock up in a few seconds.

Please post an update on what you find out. Others have had issues on "freq 41" which I think in their area was also a PBS station. Very interesting about the lockup on SD vs HD. I can't reproduce that problem. If we can get some more information, I would see what could be done. I suspect the PSIP information or the process thereof. If you can note the programs it happens on, I can see if/when the local PBS is showing that and we can compare notes.

Thanks for the encouragement :)

Count me as another Los Angeles KCET watcher who also experiences lock ups on my db2010. I'm interested in whether the upgrade fixes this problem.

Hi:

Bad news. :( I just checked my DB2020 box. I left it on since 12pm. It is now 3:30pm. All I see on the screen is that there's current "no signal" for 28.1. If I switch to other channels, it displays the same message. So it looks like the 2.9x firmwares did not fix the local PBS problem for me. At least not in CA with KCET/PBS/28.1. This only happens with 28.1 and no other channels. My other local PBS channel KOCE does not have this problem. Is there any diagnostic data or log files that I can derive from the receiver to give you any clues?



Please post an update on what you find out. Others have had issues on "freq 41" which I think in their area was also a PBS station. Very interesting about the lockup on SD vs HD. I can't reproduce that problem. If we can get some more information, I would see what could be done. I suspect the PSIP information or the process thereof. If you can note the programs it happens on, I can see if/when the local PBS is showing that and we can compare notes.

Thanks for the encouragement :)

Bad news. :( I just checked my DB2020 box. I left it on since 12pm. It is now 3:30pm. All I see on the screen is that there's current "no signal" for 28.1. If I switch to other channels, it displays the same message. So it looks like the 2.9x firmwares did not fix the local PBS problem for me. At least not in CA with KCET/PBS/28.1. This only happens with 28.1 and no other channels. My other local PBS channel KOCE does not have this problem. Is there any diagnostic data or log files that I can derive from the receiver to give you any clues?

Do you have the serial cable and a linux box? If so, we may be able to turn on debugging and capture some data that would help.

If you can give as much detail, maybe it will spark something in my little brain. If so, I may be able to come up with something to narrow it down.

So you tune it to KCET 28.1, leave it there, then the blue "no signal" is in the center of the screen? You change to another channel that previously worked and now it says no channel? Does the box ever reboot during this process? Does the tuner ever come back online? How to do fix the problem? It only happens on SD programming on KCET? Signal strengths on KCET - do they fluxuate? Anything and everything you can provide will help for the next steps.

I wish I would reproduce it here. If you can provide enough info, I can dig around for some leads. Then I can maybe get you a special version with enhanced debugging (but I would have to create that). Why I ask about the tuner, I can trace back to why all the places that may display the "no signal" and if I could find a path that would lead to that.

Hi Dogleg69: Pleaes read my response after the >> symbol.

Do you have the serial cable and a linux box? If so, we may be able to turn on debugging and capture some data that would help.
>> Sorry, I do not have a linux box. Is there anything I can extract from the built in menu "diagnostic feature". Mabye I can send you photos of it.

If you can give as much detail, maybe it will spark something in my little brain. If so, I may be able to come up with something to narrow it down.

So you tune it to KCET 28.1, leave it there, then the blue "no signal" is in the center of the screen?
>> Yes, when I leave the tuner at 28.1 long enough, the "no signal" blue screen will eventually appear.

You change to another channel that previously worked and now it says no channel?
>> After the blue "no signal" screen occurs, I can still change the channel. But all other channels will also have the blue "no signal" screen.

Does the box ever reboot during this process?
>> The box does not reboot. Just goes into the blue "no sig" screen.

Does the tuner ever come back online?
>> No, to get the signal back, I have to hold the power for a few seconds and reboot.

How to do fix the problem?
>> After the reboot, all is well. But if I leave it on 28.1, it will eventually blue screen again.

It only happens on SD programming on KCET?
>> That seems to be the pattern. But not always. Shows such as "Nature", and "Masterpiece" are broadcasted in HD. Those programs can run for hour with no lock up. But what does cause the lock up and commericals before and after the show. The commericals are not in HD. That is why I suspect non HD programs are causing the lock up. Kid shows such as Sesame Street, Dragon Tales, Word World will also intermittenly cause lock ups.

Signal strengths on KCET - do they fluxuate?
>> Signal strength is solid at 5 bars. It does not go up/down.

Anything and everything you can provide will help for the next steps.

I wish I would reproduce it here. If you can provide enough info, I can dig around for some leads. Then I can maybe get you a special version with enhanced debugging (but I would have to create that). Why I ask about the tuner, I can trace back to why all the places that may display the "no signal" and if I could find a path that would lead to that.

>> I also found some info on the KCET site at http://www.kcet.org/schedule/faqs.php#faq137 especially this paragraph.

======
Why does my Digital receiver stop responding and require a reboot when I select KCET HD on 28-1?

On April 12, 2006 KCET began data casting TV guide information within the digital broadcast. This causes digital receivers that are not ATSC compliant to fail. The only receivers that have exhibited this problem to date are those distributed by the now defunct VOOM HD network. The receivers were originally manufactured by Motorola under model name DSR 550 for VOOM. When VOOM went into bankruptcy many of these receivers were sold on E-BAY at a very low price. Motorola has refused to support the unit or to provide any upgrades to the unit. Unfortunately, the only recourse left to the viewer is to discontinue the use of the unit and purchase a new receiver.
======

Also, back in 7/2007, KCET put info on their site concerning how they were implementation non HD programs. http://www.kcet.org/schedule/hd_announce.php


====
Starting July, 2007, the KCET lineup will air on KCET's digital spectrum. That means that your children's favorite programs, the news and public affairs programming (including The NewsHour with Jim Lehrer, Frontline and Bill Moyers Journal) will be seen at your favorite times on KCET-DT – where the KCET high-definition channel was seen. This means that the same lineup on our regular analog channel will be available in high definition in all the normal places you've been watching our high-definition channel, be it cable or off the air.

You'll enjoy the lineup of PBS programs shot in high definition 1080i at their regular times. (Programs that are not shot in HD format will appear on your HD sets with curtains.) Though shot in 1080i, KCET HD programming appears in 720p.

This change will allow us the extra bandwidth to bring you KCET's other digital services including KCET Orange, KCET Desert Cities, V-me and PBS World.
====

>> I emailed KCET back in 7/2007 about the program. Their reply was that it was not their problem.

>> Hope all this info helps.

I emailed KCET back in 7/2007 about the program. Their reply was that it was not their problem.

Hope all this info helps.

Great info. Can you PM me the email address and email you sent to KCET? I will send them email about the Hisense box and explain that is it supported and see if they will help me understand what could be the problem. Hopefully we can get this solved (may take a while though).

Hi dogleg69:

This is what I previously sent to KCET back in 7/2007. The email address and contact person is in the email.

======
-----Original Message-----
From: George Hsing-Hotmail [mailto:ax135@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2007 3:43 PM
To: 'V Serve'
Subject: RE: HDTV Tuner Lockup

Hi Janine:

I am aware of the changes of 28.2 (gone). My problem is with the digital
channel 28.1. I can view the channel for around 1-2 minutes and then it
will lock up my HDTV tuner which I have to perform a reset with the message
28.1 is off-line. This just started toward the beginning of July 2007. I
am not the only person experiencing this. My neighbor and my uncle in
Oxnard are also experiencing the same. We are all using receiving HDTV
over the air, not via cable or satellite.

The new change that KCET 28.1 implemented have rendered our HDTV receiver
inoperable to the point that we can no longer view 28.1.

Please pass the email to your engineers so they can be ware of it. In the
mean time, I have to switch to 50 and 58 to watch some of the similar
programs.

Thank you for your help.

-----Original Message-----
From: V Serve [mailto:viewerservices@kcet.org]
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2007 3:19 PM
To: ax135@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: HDTV Tuner Lockup


Dear KCET Friend,

Thank you for your inquiry.

It appears that our scheduled digital channel line up change implemented
on Monday, July 2 has caused quite a few viewers to call or email Viewer
Services reporting loss of KCET programming.

The change, which the Time Warner, Charter, and other cable companies were
informed about several weeks ago, did not reach every cable head end
facility as hoped. Since many cable systems had been using our digital
28.2 channel to feed their systems, we felt it necessary to give them
advanced warning that they would need to use an alternative source for
regular KCET programming. As a result there were some cable viewers who
suddenly lost KCET early Monday afternoon for varying lengths of time as
the various cable facilities made the switch to the analog channel or
digital channel 28.1.

Please know that we have made every possible effort to keep the cable
companies informed of this change. We do apologize for the inconvenience.
It seems that the systems have all switched over and KCET should be back
for those who experienced problems. This change to the line up is needed
so that we can be ready to launch our two new digital channels this year,
with the World channel this summer and Orange in the fall.

Digital channel 28.1 will now carry the traditional "analog" schedule with
standard definition programming in it's normal 4:3 aspect ratio with
curtains on each side and shows shot in HD will be shown in full screen
16:9 format. Digital channel 28.3 will remain the same with V ME.
Digital channels 28.2 and 28.4 are scheduled for the new World and Orange
channels and the final destination for these services will be announced in
the near future.

If you have any questions regarding our programming schedule, please
contact Viewer Services at (323) 953-5238 Monday through Friday between
the hours of 9:00 am to 5:00 pm.

Thank you for your interest in KCET.


Sincerely,

Janine Anderson
KCET Web Correspondent




<ax135@hotmail.com> on Sunday, July 15, 2007 at 11:28 PM +0000 wrote:
>Hi:
>
>Did KCET change transmitter settings recently? I've been
>receiving lock ups on my HDTV tuner since early July 2007. I have a
>Hisense DB2010 tuner. I've been receiving KCET 28.1 with no problems
>prior to July 2007.
>
>Thank you!

======

Great info. Can you PM me the email address and email you sent to KCET? I will send them email about the Hisense box and explain that is it supported and see if they will help me understand what could be the problem. Hopefully we can get this solved (may take a while though).

Thank you!

Please gather the following.

0. What version and build date from the System Info.

1. Tune to KCET. Note fairly accurately how long it takes to get the "no signal" and what program.

2. Make sure there is a program on KCET that will cause the problem. Go to the adjust antenna and then tune to KCET (manually or using arrows). Note everything that happens. Wait double the time it took in step 1. Did it lock up, show the no sig, or can you still change channels on the adjust screen?

3. Turn the until on for over 3 hours on a good station (TV does not have to be on all that time -- maybe just watch the olympics for 3+ hours). After the TV has been on over 3 hours, press the EPG/Program Guide button. Let is go for as long as it takes to remove the antenna from the screen. Did it lock up?


The 3rd scenario should tell us if it is PSIP related or not. If you are not viewing KCET but you ask for a guide (knowing after 3 hours of watching it is stale) and it does not lock up, then it is probabaly not the PSIP.

Also, please tell me the channel number and the actual frequency of KCET or the zip code and I'll look on TVFool.

On April 12, 2006 KCET began data casting TV guide information within the digital broadcast. This causes digital receivers that are not ATSC compliant to fail.


Question: Of all the digital channels in Los Angeles, (there are a lot) is KCET 28.1 the only digital channel datacasting TV guide information?

No other channel locks up the Hisense box. Not even 28.2 or 28.3

The digital channel is actually broadcast on UHF CH 59. They'll be switching to CH 28 come Feb 2009. I'm watching from zip code 90241.

Sorry, but I'm not a Linux user, either.

Please read my replies below after the >> symbol.

Question: Of all the digital channels in Los Angeles, (there are a lot) is KCET 28.1 the only digital channel datacasting TV guide information?

>> I am pretty sure other digital channels database TV guide info.

No other channel locks up the Hisense box. Not even 28.2 or 28.3

>> 28.2, 28.3 is fine. All the 50+ digital channels I pick up, only 28.1 cause the lock up.

The digital channel is actually broadcast on UHF CH 59. They'll be switching to CH 28 come Feb 2009. I'm watching from zip code 90241.



Sorry, but I'm not a Linux user, either.

I finally gathered all the info. Please see my replies after >>.

Please gather the following.

0. What version and build date from the System Info.

>> Version = 2.9.4 (2.4.18-17), Build Date: 0808071500

1. Tune to KCET. Note fairly accurately how long it takes to get the "no signal" and what program.

>> Here is what I found out. I've been watching KCET 28.1 today since 8am. Programs from xx:01 - x:58 will NOT lose the signal. As soon as it gets to xx:59 or so, it will get the "no signal" screen. After xx:01 or when the program starts, it will no longer lose the signal. So far this is consistent. For example, I can watch "Sesame Street for almost an hour from 12:01-12:59pm. This happened at 8:59am, 9:59am, etc. After the end of the "Sesame Street" credits at 12:58 or 12:59, it goes into a PBS commercial and a few seconds later "no signal". I will reboot the receiver. If the time period is still in the range of xx:59 to xx:01, it will continue to lock. When the new show starts at xx:02 (Caliou, Mr. Roger's Neighborhood, Word World, etc.), the receiver will continue to operate without problems. I managed to watch most the children shows without any problem until the end. I also manged to lock up one time at the xx:29 time when the Caliou show switched over to Mr Roger's Neighborshood. The "no signal" occured only prior to or after the show has ended.

2. Make sure there is a program on KCET that will cause the problem. Go to the adjust antenna and then tune to KCET (manually or using arrows). Note everything that happens. Wait double the time it took in step 1. Did it lock up, show the no sig, or can you still change channels on the adjust screen?

>> Yes, the program on KCET will lock up consistently on the hour at xx:59. Yes, it locks, then shows the "no sig". I can still channels but all channels have "no signal".

3. Turn the until on for over 3 hours on a good station (TV does not have to be on all that time -- maybe just watch the olympics for 3+ hours). After the TV has been on over 3 hours, press the EPG/Program Guide button. Let is go for as long as it takes to remove the antenna from the screen. Did it lock up?

>> I do not not turn off my receiver. It can stay on for weeks without a problem. Maybe even month if I do not leave it on 28.1. I can leave it on EPG with no lock up problem.

The 3rd scenario should tell us if it is PSIP related or not. If you are not viewing KCET but you ask for a guide (knowing after 3 hours of watching it is stale) and it does not lock up, then it is probabaly not the PSIP.

>> It is probably not PSIP related as I never had a none 28.1 lock up.

Also, please tell me the channel number and the actual frequency of KCET or the zip code and I'll look on TVFool.

>> KCET 28's number is 59. The zip here is 92620.

>> Thank you again for your help in this.

I finally gathered all the info. <snip>
>> KCET 28's number is 59. The zip here is 92620.

>> Thank you again for your help in this.

This is awesome information. Thank you for doing this. Very interesting. Let me think about it.

I have been using the new 2.9.4 version on both of my units. I have not had to use the timers yet since I was keeping the unit turned on and tuned to NBC so I could record the Olympics on my Phillips DVR. I have, however, noticed my units lose time rapidly. I have had to reset the time constantly due to the method used to set the system time. I have found that requesting the EPG to reset the time is also less than desirable since that process takes a good chunk of time to finish. I find that the program info does not display properly until I reset the system time.

I have a suggestion. Can the system time also be set against the time channel every time the unit is turned on? This would reduce the need for manually resetting the time or requesting the EPG. It seems that the system time request is pretty fast when using the menu option and this method should not appreciably delay unit turn on time. Otherwise, the upgrade seems to be spot on and having the timers will really make it easier to record network shows on my DVR.

I have been using the new 2.9.4 version on both of my units. I have not had to use the timers yet since I was keeping the unit turned on and tuned to NBC so I could record the Olympics on my Phillips DVR. I have, however, noticed my units lose time rapidly. I have had to reset the time constantly due to the method used to set the system time. I have found that requesting the EPG to reset the time is also less than desirable since that process takes a good chunk of time to finish. I find that the program info does not display properly until I reset the system time.


Have you set the system time channel to a channel that gives accurate time? Could you try a few different system channels and see if it continues?

The box could be set to get the time each time the box is turned on, but it would slow down the sequence to enable the use of the tuner (and the box). The way it is suppose to be working today is that while the box is off, it will update the time from the system time channel (and update the EPG) every 60 mins.

If you know the system time is set to a good channel that keeps time, please watch for additional clues. I'll setup some additional tests over a longer period of time, with different system time channels and see what I can see too.

I have been using the new 2.9.4 version on both of my units. I have not had to use the timers yet since I was keeping the unit turned on and tuned to NBC so I could record the Olympics on my Phillips DVR. I have, however, noticed my units lose time rapidly. I have had to reset the time constantly due to the method used to set the system time.

I just re-read this will a clear head. The reason you are losing time is because you are keeping the box on. If you would set the timers (so that you at least turn the box off a few hours a day, it would pull the system time and set it then.

The box gets the system time from the STT block in the PSIP. To pull the PSIP it needs full control of the tuner (because it switches stations, just doesn't pipe the audio/video out). As I said in the other post, the box polls the system time channel and runs through all channels updating the EPG each hour while the box is off. So, it is important for the box to stay off for a few hours a day. Otherwise, it will loose time and experience the symptoms you have described.

question
what type of dvr can be hooked up to these tuners for recording ?
I would like to get one but i am not sure what type to get also hopefully it does not come with a monthly subscription i want to keep my tv viewing and recording free.
other than purchasing my dvr of course.

question
what type of dvr can be hooked up to these tuners for recording ?
I would like to get one but i am not sure what type to get also hopefully it does not come with a monthly subscription i want to keep my tv viewing and recording free.
other than purchasing my dvr of course.

Right now, this box is only a tuner, EPG and timers. You can use that combination and use the tuner in front of a DVD writer or a VCR. The ultimate goal will be to see if we can hook up an external USB drive and stream the mpeg2 to disk --- basically create a very simple digial video USB recorder. However, that is not in the works yet. We'll see in the future.

This USDTV box does not have a subscription. You can get a VCR or DVD recorder and set the timers in both the VCR and USDTV. This will turn the USDTV box on and change the channel. Then set the same on the VCR to record on Line1 or AUX or whatever. Basically you can use this box as a digital tuner for the analog recording equipment you already have.

thank you dogleg69 for the info i was just curious because i saw james614 stateing that he was using a dvr to record the olympics,
also very nice job with the firmware programming.

thank you dogleg69 for the info i was just curious because i saw james614 stateing that he was using a dvr to record the olympics,
also very nice job with the firmware programming.

Thanks. I would still love to turn this box into a very simple recorder via an external USB disk. However, I haven't had the time to do a proof of concept yet. If/when it does become possible, I'll let this group know.

I am using a Phillips DVDR3575H/37. This is about the only DVR-DVD unit left sold at retail. This is a SDTV HD/DVD recorder. The new model is the 3576. I think they are sold at some Wal-Marts and I have also heard CostCo carries them. I purchased mine on eBay. They are also offered occasionally on the Phillips website as refurbished units for $199.

I am using the unit in the following method: Connect analog cable to antenna jack on DVR unit. Connect the DB2010 to the E1 connection on DVR via red/white/yellow composite jacks. This DVR has a HDTV tuner built in but if I used the antenna jack for OTA HDTV, I can't use it for analog cable. Therefore the DB2010 comes to the rescue. Finally, the QAM tuner on this DVR is a little buggy from what I have seen so far so I am not using the analog cable for picking up the local HDTV QAM stations. I hear that OTA gives a better picture than QAM anyway (less compression).

Using the DB2010 gives nearly DVD quality when recording HDTV as SDTV on the Phillips unit. I addition to the Olympics I recorded the Steelers-Vikings football game on Saturday night and was highly impressed at the picture quality that the DB2010/Phillips combination produced.

I was not using the 2.9.4 timers since the Olympics coverage was at all hours of the day and at different times on different days. I ended up with over 20+ NBC sessions on the DVR. The 2.9.4 timers were not fine grained enough to match the DVR timer schedule.

I'll try using 2.9.4 again with one daily timer of a few minutes using the designated system timer channel and let you know how it works.

My second DB2010 box is generally switched off via the surge suppression strip to save on electricity. The DB2010 is not the easiest unit on power consumption (12-15 watts). The second unit is hooked up to a TV that is generally not watched. This is why I asked for the system time check on power up. Is there a difference between a cold boot-up and a normal off-on via the remote in the unit's programming? Maybe the system time check could be part of the cold boot routine and not part of the off-on sequence via the timers?

I was not using the 2.9.4 timers since the Olympics coverage was at all hours of the day and at different times on different days. I ended up with over 20+ NBC sessions on the DVR. The 2.9.4 timers were not fine grained enough to match the DVR timer schedule.

I'll try using 2.9.4 again with one daily timer of a few minutes using the designated system timer channel and let you know how it works.

My second DB2010 box is generally switched off via the surge suppression strip to save on electricity. The DB2010 is not the easiest unit on power consumption (12-15 watts). The second unit is hooked up to a TV that is generally not watched. This is why I asked for the system time check on power up. Is there a difference between a cold boot-up and a normal off-on via the remote in the unit's programming? Maybe the system time check could be part of the cold boot routine and not part of the off-on sequence via the timers?

Yes, there is a difference. I would recommend the unit be in standby mode (both lights red) for at least 30 mins a day. I recorded everything NBC offered for the Olympics. I programmed the VCR for the correct times. I programmed the db2010 with a Daily timer for 6AM-3AM. This would allow it to shut off for 3 hours each morning. It would be on NBC the rest of the day.

The way the db2010 keeps the time upto date and gets the EPG is that when the unit is in standby (two red lights), it changes the channel to the system time channel, turns on the tuner to that channel and gets the time via the STT block in the PSIP from that station (without piping audio or video out). It then uses the tuner to walk the enabled channels, using the tuner to tune to each channel, pulling the EIT and ETT from each stations PSIP information.

The above is scheduled to happen each hour. Depending on how many stations you have, getting the time and walking the PSIP for each channel can take upto ten mins. After it it done, it schedules another event to do it over again in 60 mins.

So, if the tuner is being used (the box is on with green lights or no power, no lights), it will not update the time or update the EPG information.

Hmm...

I am slightly confused since there does not seem to be a system time loss with running 2.9.3. Is there something with the new timer code that has a side effect of the unit losing time if a timer is not set? I like our discussion since it makes clear how the unit is programmed to work in 2.9.4. I did not realize the unit was running the EPG update every hour in 2.9.4.

I think that there is also a system time issue with the DTVPal according to the other forums. That unit is a less capable CECB unit that has a timer feature.

I think that the solution you have created is workable, we just need to better understand how to configure the unit so that it functions properly according to the new programming.

Thanks

I am slightly confused since there does not seem to be a system time loss with running 2.9.3. Is there something with the new timer code that has a side effect of the unit losing time if a timer is not set? I like our discussion since it makes clear how the unit is programmed to work in 2.9.4. I did not realize the unit was running the EPG update every hour in 2.9.4.



2.9.3 updated the time every channel you changed to. Every frequency sends STT (system time table) in the PSIP (program and system information protocol). This means every station is broadcasting time information. In 2.9.3, each time you would change the channel, it would pull the STT out of the PSIP and set the system time.

This is all fine and good. But, when you implement timers, they are only useful if the time is consistent. Unfortunately, each station has slightly a different time -- some are off mins, some are off hours. Also, the internal clock in the version of the linux kernel that is being used looses time (know bug). So, we can't just set it once and expect it to not lose time -- we have to help the linux kernel keep the time accurate. You can't code an event to fire in XX milliseconds if the time is jumping all around.

So, yes, you did notice correctly in 2.9.3 that the system time would stay more upto date if you kept the unit on all the time (because it was pulling the time from the station you were on inside the STT block).

Since the timers were added in 2.9.4, we needed a way to make sure the time was consistent all the time (or as close a we could control). This was done by always getting the STT block from the PSIP from a single station. If you are watching the System Time Channel (that you set in Setup), your box will keep the current time up to date when the box is on. However, if you are not watching that channel, I can't just interrupt you watching the programming to say "hey, i need the tuner in order to get set the system time". So, when the box is off, I set the tuner to the System Time Channel, get the time and then start walking the enabled channels to update the EPG via the ETT and EIT blocks in the PSIP.

I'm very familiar with the DTVPal. I waited quite a while for it to come out so I could have timers. When it didn't work well, I implemented our own for this box. Doing that, I can certainly see the potential pitfalls of such an implementation. It is much harder to implement simple timers than one would think. If you read the DTVPal threads, it shows how many scenarios there really are.

This is good information. Is there a fix for that Linux time bug? I suspect that the hardware does not have a very good quartz clock and loses time like crazy.

Oh, my kingdom for the simplicity of the old reliable VCR clock. We don't know how good we had it back then. :rolleyes:

Its a well known fact that CBS (usually the first channel, and I have read it in DTVPAL thread too) have wrong time set. I have set my DB20101 to get the time from my local NBC affiliate and they are always correct in my local DMA. Keeping the config this way, my DB2010 does maintain corect time. And yes I keep it in standby mode whenever I schedule recording.

Just wanted to report in that after setting a 1 minute daily timer event, the unit is now keeping time properly.

Thanks for all the assistance in getting this cleared up.

dogleg69,

Can you help please?

I have a hisense usdtv box with firmware version older than 2.7.15. It was a non subscription box from the start.

I came across this thread and decided to upgrade to get the newer features. So I upgraded to 2.9.3 first under your usingPre2.7.15 folder. The upgrade went fine. Then I rebooted the box and it prompted me to setup and scan for channels, which I proceeded to do. The scanning was going fine until channel 27 where it hangs. All I can do is 'cancel'. Pressing the blue 'program info' button gets me to the "adjust antenna" screen. But I cannot do anything else. I cannot find a way to skip the channel scan at all.

So then I thought maybe version 2.9.4 would fix. I upgraded to version 2.9.4 and got the same problem (ie. channel scan hangs at channel 27). I have reinstalled 2.9.3 and still no luck. My box is pretty much unusable now.

Do you have any ideas how I fix this? Much appreciated.

jtbs

jtbs,

try scanning with the ant. disconnected, this may not work, but it is something to try.

Do you have any ideas how I fix this? Much appreciated.

jtbs
Have you tried to rollback to a previous version of the software? Sometimes if you start back from scratch it works.....search for rollback sequence in this thread if I can remember which of the post in this thread I'll post it here or dogleg69 will help you....I think it's called magic key sequences you should be able to run the rollback sequence

I found it!

try the following sequence to try and get your db2010 back to the previous firmware version

on the remote press the following buttons in this sequence be patient it will take a small amount of time for it to reboot

Guide (the one in between the mute and pre-ch buttons)

Program Info

Aspect

Program Info

1


Good luck......

dogleg69 do you think jtbs would be able to reinstall the original 2.7.15 firmware and start all over again?

dogleg69 do you think jtbs would be able to reinstall the original 2.7.15 firmware and start all over again?

Yes, you can reinstall older software. This is what I found to try:

Go through the channel scan and before it gets to the channel number that locks up, pull the antenna cable. When it passes the locked channel, plug the antenna back in.

If you give it enough time to bypass the locked channel, you can scan the rest of the channels and get most of your channels. As long as you pull it early enough and wait long enough (give a channel or two buffer), everything will work fine.

I don't know what causes this. You can try after the scan is complete to add the channel manually. This may/not work.

Thank you everyone for the helpful suggestions.

I pulled the antenna just before channel 27 and the unit was able to complete the channel scan and let me continue. I then manually added all the other channels.

However, my problem now is that I cannot get the unit to add or recognize channel 27, which is my local channel 5 (WAGA Fox Atlanta). When I go to add channel and put in 27, the signal meter reads 97% and holds steady. But the unit does not recognize it as the local Fox channel though. I was on version 2.9.3 with this problem. So I upgraded to version 2.9.4, but no luck also. Have not tried going back to an older version yet.

Does anyone have an idea on why the unit will not recognize a channel, though the signal is very strong?

I just remembered one thing. Not sure if it makes any difference.

Station WAGA (Fox Atlanta channel 5) broadcasts in both standard and HD format on channel 27. So there is a channel 5.1 and 5.2, both showing the exact same programs.

jtbs

dogleg69,

OK. After spending 3 hrs figuring out how to get knoppix to work and create the older firmware images on to a usb drive, I finally figured out how to make the script work. I don't have a linux pc and came across knoppix and thought I'd give it a try. It's linux that runs from a cd. Knoppix calls usb drives as uba devices, instead of sda devices for normal hard disks. So I had to modify the makekey script to mount uba devices instead of sda devices.

So I was able to install the older versions, but nothing worked to fix my problem with channel 27 (WAGA Fox 5 in Atlanta). I tried versions 2.7.11, 2.7.15 and 2.9.1.

By the way, what is the difference between the version that says 'fromservice' and one that says 'reinstall'? I only used the 'reinstall' versions.

I just noticed that you have a version 2.5.59 in the archive folder. I am going to try this also. But if this does not work, I am out of ideas.

Do you have any thoughts on why a channel cannot be decoded even though the signal is very strong? The only thing I can think of that is different with this station is that it is being broadcast as 5.1 and 5.2 and they both have the same programming. So I am guessing one is a true hi-def broadcast and the other is just an analog to digital broadcast signal.

dogleg69, if you or anyone has any ideas on how to fix this problem, I would greatly indebted to you. The Fox channel is one I watch often. It has one my favorite shows, Prison Break. :-)

Thanks,

jtbs

dogleg69,

I just noticed that you have a version 2.5.59 in the archive folder. I am going to try this also. But if this does not work, I am out of ideas.




Holy Cows!!! Reverting back to version 2.5.59 worked. The usdtv device now picks up and decodes channel 27 correctly. I am so glad this worked.

I would like to know what is the difference between this older version and the newer versions though. Nobody seems to experience the same issue I did. Oh well. Guess I'll have to experiment some more because I would really like to get the features of the newer version.

jtbs

By the way, what is the difference between the version that says 'fromservice' and one that says 'reinstall'? I only used the 'reinstall' versions.


reinstall is what you want. The fromService are boxes that are still subscription or ones that still are looking for the USDTV service. After you go to an FTA box, you never use fromService again.

Holy Cows!!! Reverting back to version 2.5.59 worked. The usdtv device now picks up and decodes channel 27 correctly. I am so glad this worked.


I'm pretty surprised by this. Since you do have access to linux now, please try to go directly from the 2.5.59 to 2.9.4 using the userUpgrade in the linux folder (do not use the windows .bin file. It will not work back on 2.5.59). The userUpgrade will not make you rescan the channels. This means that channel 27 should be there. Then, please report back what works.

This may be a lead on the infamous channel 41 problem too. Hmmm. I'm a bit puzzled by this. The 2.5.59 software is not as robust. Please report back. This certainly points to the software, not the tuner.

This may be a lead on the infamous channel 41 problem too. Hmmm. I'm a bit puzzled by this. The 2.5.59 software is not as robust. Please report back. This certainly points to the software, not the tuner.dogleg69,

Would the 2.5.59 software work with one of the units I have(all my other units came from ebay with the 2.7.15 software versions installed and later the all were converted to ota versions)?

I could hook it up and let it stay on digital 41 for days to see if it loses the channel (it would make sense that the software would cause the problem since my wally world unit has the same identical tuner in it as the other units I have and doesn't stop working at channel 41 we had discussed this earlier I think) ..... and then upgrade back to the 2.9.4 and see what happens.

Oh yeah did you do something different in the 2.9.4 software as far as the channel guide is concerned other than changing when it updated, here in the last week or so It has been lightning fast on epg downloads where it used to take thumbing through each channel to update when I first upgraded to the 2.9.4. software Is there an active link to the older version software still available?

Would the 2.5.59 software work with one of the units I have(all my other units came from ebay with the 2.7.15 software versions installed and later the all were converted to ota versions)?

Yes, the 2.5.59 will work with any of the hardware you have (as long as it has the Xilleon chip -- which I think all yours do). You can then flip or reinstall the later versions. It might be a good test.

Oh yeah did you do something different in the 2.9.4 software as far as the channel guide is concerned other than changing when it updated, here in the last week or so It has been lightning fast on epg downloads where it used to take thumbing through each channel to update when I first upgraded to the 2.9.4. software Is there an active link to the older version software still available?

Yes. Made it so it downloaded only the enabled channels. I also set the timeout to be much shorter when grabbing data for each channel. After you first upgrade (like to 2.9.4), you have to let it settle in a bit. If you upgrade and then immediately turn it on and press guide, it will not have gathered any data. One of my boxes is act great and keeping the guide alive. One is not. I'm still thinking on that one.

All versions are avail on the mediafire site.

Yes, the 2.5.59 will work with any of the hardware you have (as long as it has the Xilleon chip -- which I think all yours do). You can then flip or reinstall the later versions. It might be a good test.



Yes. Made it so it downloaded only the enabled channels. I also set the timeout to be much shorter when grabbing data for each channel. After you first upgrade (like to 2.9.4), you have to let it settle in a bit. If you upgrade and then immediately turn it on and press guide, it will not have gathered any data. One of my boxes is act great and keeping the guide alive. One is not. I'm still thinking on that one.

All versions are avail on the mediafire site.

I noticed that now my box was able to sit over night the guide is lightning fast. I guessed it had to do with the box updating over night like you mentioned. It's working great! Thanks for your dedication!

There may be something to this 2.5.59 version working for some channels. I believe the 2.7.15 thru 2.9.4 are the same as far as the tuner scanning code. However, the 2.5.59 is different from the 2.7.15 regarding scanning. I still feel it has something to do with the PSIP information not agreeing with the newer versions of the software.

I'm making this guess based on the info provided by ax135, jtbs and smintn. It is extremely hard for me to work on this becuase it does not happen in my area.

The 2.5.59 vs 2.7.15 changed alot of code with regards to the PSIP processing. I will continue to look as I have time.

Since you do have access to linux now, please try to go directly from the 2.5.59 to 2.9.4 using the userUpgrade in the linux folder.


dogleg69,

Your recommendation was right on. I upgraded to 2.9.4 using the userupgrade version and it worked perfect. There was no rescan and my channel 5.1 and 5.2 were still there. Everything is great now. Thanks!!!

You mentioned in the previous post about the PSIP info not agreeing with the newer software. If that is the case, then wouldn't my problem come back after I installed 2.9.4? Just wondering.

jtbs

dogleg69,

Your recommendation was right on. I upgraded to 2.9.4 using the userupgrade version and it worked perfect. There was no rescan and my channel 5.1 and 5.2 were still there. Everything is great now. Thanks!!!

You mentioned in the previous post about the PSIP info not agreeing with the newer software. If that is the case, then wouldn't my problem come back after I installed 2.9.4? Just wondering.

jtbs

Hmmm. So, you went back to 2.5.59 and your FOX (ch 5) was enabled and you could use it. Then you used the 2.9.4 "userupgrade" (which does NOT reinstall everything, it just updates the software but keeps the previous configuration), and you can now receive FOX (ch5) properly?

Indeed, if that is the case, it is probably not the PSIP. It still could be the PSIP info when adding a station, but not when using/tuning. To add the station, the VCT (virtual channel table) is parsed. Again, hmmm. All very good information. In any case, if it worked, then that is great and we have found a strange, but usable workaround. Thanks for sharing the information.

dogleg69,

Since I had good luck with upgrading my first box, I decided to try it on another one I got from ebay. However, I cannot even flash the firmware on this new one. When I first power up the device, it wants to go thru diagnostics. It says something about testing the DS2505, then it tests the led's, and then it asks to put a flash drive to test the usb port. After all this, it says to connect the antenna. After a few seconds, it says the picture and audio should be showing and to use the + and - buttons to change channels. But there is no picture. Except for + and - buttons, no other buttons on the remote works, not even power. It does not look like the unit even went thru a channel scan.

I have tried all the firmware versions on your site and a couple from another site and I cannot get the darn thing to apply a different firmware. I compared the circuit boards inside the new and my old one and they are different.

Are there versions of this unit out there that you cannot change the firmware at all? If so, how do you identify it?

In the initial diagnostic of the unit, it does show that there are two NAND chips. Is there a magic code via the remote that I could try to have it revert to the firmware on the second NAND chip?

Thanks.

jtbs

Since I had good luck with upgrading my first box, I decided to try it on another one I got from ebay. However, I cannot even flash the firmware on this new one. When I first power up the device, it wants to go thru diagnostics.


From what you are describing, you have the "test" firmware that was put on directly at the manufacturing plant by Hisense for USDTV. That firmware is just for diagnostic and has no DTV code in it.

Where did you get it (which ebay seller)? PM me if you don't want to say on the forum. And which other sites did you get firmware?

None of the software posted will fix that box. There is no revert sequence. That is the original flash from the factory.

Hey all -

I hope this has not already been covered ad nauseum (I tried to search but there are A LOT of posts on here).

Anyhow, I have the USD/Hisense 2010 HD receiver - I bought it about 3 years (maybe a little less) ago. Stil has the factory firmware on it I suppose - I requested an update USB, but what do you know? I never got one!

Anyhow, I did not need it and it has been put up in storage for about 1.5 years now. Before this time it was working great (for the most part - I was having issues with it reading a signal from some stations - namely PBS stations) and not actually showing them. Anyhow, I got it back out today and plugged it in and set it all back up the way it was and now as soon as I turn it on, both the signal and power lights are flashing about 1 time a second. I cannot get it to respond to anything.

Now, I read in a thread here that someone said this happened and that it was a power supply issue. However, I am not convinced that is the case in my situation. Reason being, how likely is it that it works perfectly fine when I put it up - it never had any power going to it in the mean time, and then all of a sudden the power supply is bad? Not to mention I took the cover off to look and everything looks pristine - not even any dust. Now, I am not going to say I know without a doubt it is not the power supply, but my logic dictates that it is quite possible it may be something else. (maybe I am wishful thinking, I dunno). Is there anything else I can try - also, I have a multimeter - can I possibly test the power supply before getting a new one? I mean, I know that they are pretty cheap, but I really do not feel like fooling with all that if that is necessesary. Thanks!

Mike

and now as soon as I turn it on, both the signal and power lights are flashing about 1 time a second. I cannot get it to respond to anything.


What color are the lights (red or green)?

What color are the lights (red or green)?

Ah yes, I left that part out - they are both green (and actually, not that it really matters, I am sure - they are blinking quite rapidly - not once a second but once every .5 seconds.) I opened it up again to really inspect it and I took it out, reseated the cables and turned it back on and am still getting the same thing.

The only thing I can find on the blinking lights is that if the power is blinking that it is updating. But I am not sure that is the case here. I am not getting anything on screen except blue and a "noise" at every blink of the lights.

Mike

So here is an update. Apparently when i was testing it before I was impatient and didn't even have the tv set to be on the input source for the box long enough.

So I turned it back on and it was blue for about 20 seconds, then the screen flashed and it was black (similar to what I remember when it first came on before) and stays black for about 4 seconds and then goes back blue again. The lights never stop flashing; however, it repeats this about every 20-30 seconds. UNLESS I hold the power button in. If I hold the power button in for 5 seconds, the lights do not stop flashing, but the black screen appears about 5 seconds after I let off the power button each time I do it. So, I got to thinking, it seems as though it is trying to boot up but is stuck on something. So, could I create a bootable USB stick (I have seen it in passing, but have not actually dove into making one yet) and put that in there? I suppose I can answer my own question by saying that it cannot hurt at this point, right?

Mike

Well, that was a no go. So possibly it is a power supply issue :(. It is just weird that it was working fine the last time I had it plugged in but now it is not - I mean how does a PS go bad without being plugged in?? I will not be 100% convinced until I test it though. Like I said, I have a multimeter, but I have never used (or tested) it with a board before, so I am not quite sure that I am doing this right, but common sense tells me that I am -

I tested the each of the pins that the cable connecting the PS to the mainboard and this is what I am getting:

12v - about 3.90v
5v - about 1v
3.5v - about .5-.9

So I am guessing that if I am doing it right that it is fried. Dangint. So weird that that happened. Please let me know if I am testing it wrong though! This is a shot in the dark, but it wouldn't happen to be the actual cord could it? Is it safe to test with the multimeter? If so, how?

Also, I am guessing that there is not really anywhere I can get this replacement PS from besides a used receiver, is there? Meaning, they do not happen to make some sort of universal type of set up that I could get at like radio shack or something?

Mike

Well, that was a no go. So possibly it is a power supply issue .


Two blinking green lights is the power supply (from my experience). However, great job on the diagnostics. Since you have a it open, just make sure that all the connections from the PSU to the motherboard and the tuner are seated properly.

Blinking lights can also mean a subscription box is trying to download an upgrade. If you have updated to FTA software and you are still getting green blinking lights, the PSU is toast. This is becuase the newer FTA releases do not try to download upgrades since USDTV is out of business.

My money is on a bad PSU, but I hope not.

From what you are describing, you have the "test" firmware that was put on directly at the manufacturing plant by Hisense for USDTV. That firmware is just for diagnostic and has no DTV code in it.

Where did you get it (which ebay seller)? PM me if you don't want to say on the forum. And which other sites did you get firmware?


dogleg69,

So is there any way you know of to install a working firmware?

The item came from ebay seller susansadventure. I think the firmware issue was a mistake somehow because other buyers reported units that work fine from this seller. I plan on contacting the seller to see what they can do. As for the other site where I got firmware, it was http://elinux.org/Wiki/HiSense.

jtbs

Yeah, I decided to play around with it while it was open and unseated and reseated all connections - still a no go. The weird thing is though, I tested underneath the board right where the molex connects to the board. I am not sure how to read the meter, but I had it set on 1000v AC and there are three spaces of numbers on there (not sure how that works out). I was getting the fluctuating with the highest reading being a 035 or something to that effect. However, due to my limited knowledge beyond the principles of what a circuit, this really tells me nothing, although it seems like it is not even getting enough power TO the board to start with (that is, unless the reading was normal). Again with my strange ideas, but it is not possible that the power cord itself is bad is there? The way that it is set up tells me that is probably nearly impossible (and yes I did try different outlets on the off chance that one just so happened to be going bad).

That being said, it is puzzling as there are NO visible signs that there is anything wrong with it at all - no burning, melting, discoloration or otherwise. This might actually be an interesting project for me to learn more about how it works and how to repair them. I mean, at this point, what is it going to hurt?

This power supply board does not look all that complicated - there are not too many capacitors and resistors, one of which, I am assuming is the culprit. From what I have read, it sounds like it is more likely that it is a capacitor (but I may be wrong). That being said, there are a couple of the larger cylinder capacitors that are not flat on the top - I have read about bulging, but the state at which they are in does not lend itself to me saying that they are bulging, more like just a little rounded.

Sooooo, if I could figure out which one is bad then I can just replace it and see if that works, but the problem is troubleshooting - I mean I have the tool, but do not really know where to start. I have found numerous fault-finding diagrams, but none for the layperson like me. If anyone knows how I can go about figuring out what the failed part is, that would be great. OR, if I really wanted practice, I suppose I could just replace them all! Not sure I am that gung-ho about it right now. :)

Mike

So is there any way you know of to install a working firmware?

The item came from ebay seller susansadventure. I think the firmware issue was a mistake somehow because other buyers reported units that work fine from this seller. I plan on contacting the seller to see what they can do.

I contacted that seller. It was a mistake. Did you buy a new or used box? You got a new one direct from the factory. If you have the ability to run the makekey script in linux, then I can help you. If not, then contact the seller and they will take care of you.

That being said, it is puzzling as there are NO visible signs that there is anything wrong with it at all - no burning, melting, discoloration or otherwise. This might actually be an interesting project for me to learn more about how it works and how to repair them. I mean, at this point, what is it going to hurt?


I would buy another one on ebay first. Then switch the PSU and see if that does it -- before trying to repair it. I think it would be cheaper anyway. Or, if there is anyone who has a broken unit on the AVS, maybe they would sell it to you for the price of postage. I wish I had some extra units to part out for the members here. smintn also had a problem. I looked for one unit that I had that was bad, but I must have thrown it out like an idiot.

dogleg69

I don't know if I posted it or not but one of my ebay units was erratic on updates a while back it had done almost the same thing with the blinking lights etc like one of the flash chips had gone out.....on power up I kept using the rollback sequence repeatly (you had to be patience to see it clear while watching the screen) It finally settled down and I was able to flash the firmware....but you know come to think of it that may be the unit that has the now defunct power supply.

(as I remember)I did find out the supply on these units will only read correctly if it is plugged in with at least the motherboard as a load

Is there a source for getting a replacement ps for these units? Proserv never got back in touch with me on that subject

thanks

my walmart unit still keeps working fine as compared to the ebay units (ch41 haven't experimented with that yet don't have ant sig split yet to feed unit to leave on for a few days for the last update to check this)...I went back and looked at the system info on my 4 units I have 2 2010 units and 2 2020 units. Anyone ever figure out the reason for the 2 different hardware numbers? Also I can't remember which one's but the motherboard of one or more of my units has a mod on what looks like a regulator with an added component.....

I would buy another one on ebay first. Then switch the PSU and see if that does it -- before trying to repair it. I think it would be cheaper anyway. Or, if there is anyone who has a broken unit on the AVS, maybe they would sell it to you for the price of postage. I wish I had some extra units to part out for the members here. smintn also had a problem. I looked for one unit that I had that was bad, but I must have thrown it out like an idiot.

Obviously, the second situation would be ideal since I would even be willing to pay a bit more than just postage to someone from the forum - at least this way I would be paying ACTUAL postage charges and not some inflated shipping charges that seem to always be present on Ebay.

dogleg69


(as I remember)I did find out the supply on these units will only read correctly if it is plugged in with at least the motherboard as a load



What do you mean here? That the mb at least has to be plugged in for you to get an accurate reading or that the mb can be the ONLY thing plugged in to get an accurate reading? I tested it with everything plugged in, so I am guessing it works. I am just baffled that it does not even seem to be getting enought power to the input where the molex connector attaches. Weird. Too bad it is not easy enough to switch it with some sort of other board that can supply the power!

In a way, I am thinking I do not need it really (have satellite) but really like watching some of the races and TV shows in HD. That being said, I may just get a new one - just to be sure that it is the power supply.

Regardless of what I do, I will post back here as an update. Reason being, I see a couple of other posts here that state the same problem, but then those people just disappear with no update as to if that was it or what.

Mike

I am just baffled that it does not even seem to be getting enought power to the input where the molex connector attaches. Weird. Too bad it is not easy enough to switch it with some sort of other board that can supply the power!
If you checked with all things plugged in I believe dogleg69 was right the power supply sounds bad.......

These are the voltages you should read on the 2010/2020 they are approximate

These are dc voltages, make sure your meter is on the dc setting where it can read at least 35volts dc (settings vary with make and model of meter)

3.3v = 3.3v

5v = 4.9v

12v = 12.2v

30v = 31.2v have seen as high as 33v

these readings can be taken on the power connector (wire side) on the motherboard (3.3v,5v,12v) one lead(black -) on gnd the other lead (red +) on the voltage line you are trying to read

The 30v readings can be taken on power connector (wire side) on tuner assembly one lead(black -) on gnd the other lead (red +) on the voltage line you are trying to read

The readings for ac input can be taken across the black and white wires coming in from the plug, slightly lift the ac in connector tp power supply just enough to take a reading be careful ac will arc and scare the hell out of you plus it can weld meter leads and trip a main breaker.

Also set the meter to read ohms (resistance) (with power cord unplugged) take a reading across the fuse it should read zero ohms (resistance)

-dogleg69

after all this time (someone else probably already noticed) I think I found the real difference between the 2010 and 2020 units-

On my 2010 units on the motherboard there is a mod that has been made in the N102 (AZ1084S 5amp low dropout linear regulator) area resistor r510 has been added (discrete component) and tied to an unlabeled resistor going to a cut leg on the N201 and then tied back

Now on the 2020 units in this same area there are surface mounted parts and that multi pin connector pad area is orientated differently (a respun board) this would be a reason to distinguish between the motherboards by having different hardware numbers in the system info.

Did you buy a new or used box? You got a new one direct from the factory. If you have the ability to run the makekey script in linux, then I can help you.


dogleg69

I do not know if it is a new box or not. But it looks fairly new.

I do have the ability to run the makekey script in linux. What do you need me to do? Thanks.

jtbs

If you checked with all things plugged in I believe dogleg69 was right the power supply sounds bad.......

These are the voltages you should read on the 2010/2020 they are approximate

These are dc voltages, make sure your meter is on the dc setting where it can read at least 35volts dc (settings vary with make and model of meter)

3.3v = 3.3v

5v = 4.9v

12v = 12.2v

30v = 31.2v have seen as high as 33v

these readings can be taken on the power connector (wire side) on the motherboard (3.3v,5v,12v) one lead(black -) on gnd the other lead (red +) on the voltage line you are trying to read

The 30v readings can be taken on power connector (wire side) on tuner assembly one lead(black -) on gnd the other lead (red +) on the voltage line you are trying to read

The readings for ac input can be taken across the black and white wires coming in from the plug, slightly lift the ac in connector tp power supply just enough to take a reading be careful ac will arc and scare the hell out of you plus it can weld meter leads and trip a main breaker.

Also set the meter to read ohms (resistance) (with power cord unplugged) take a reading across the fuse it should read zero ohms (resistance)

-dogleg69

after all this time (someone else probably already noticed) I think I found the real difference between the 2010 and 2020 units-

On my 2010 units on the motherboard there is a mod that has been made in the N102 (AZ1084S 5amp low dropout linear regulator) area resistor r510 has been added (discrete component) and tied to an unlabeled resistor going to a cut leg on the N201 and then tied back

Now on the 2020 units in this same area there are surface mounted parts and that multi pin connector pad area is orientated differently (a respun board) this would be a reason to distinguish between the motherboards by having different hardware numbers in the system info.


You know what? Me being a newb shines through on this here - I was testing with AC! And yes, I did test the black and white on AC, and yes it arced and scared the hell outta me (my cat sitting there was indifferent however!), but it did not weld my leads and throw a main breaker, so that was lucky. I will test using DC and see what I get. As far as ground, I was just using the case itself - it seemed to be working, is that good enough for a ground?

Mike

after all this time (someone else probably already noticed) I think I found the real difference between the 2010 and 2020 units-


smintn - great post. Thanks for all the good information. I could swear that one of my original subscription boxes said db2010. Then USDTV pushed a new version of software out over the air. After that it said db2020. I have no idea what the difference is -- not that it matters I guess. The software works on both.

Until proven otherwise, I think your db2010/2020 explaination is the best so far. Thanks again for a great post.

I will test using DC and see what I get. As far as ground, I was just using the case itself - it seemed to be working, is that good enough for a ground?

Mike
It should be......

Hi - I had one of these HiSense boxes given to me by a family member. They had it hooked up and working great. After taking possession of it, I hooked it up to my TV in the same fashion, though it simply isn't working - The two lights come on, but nothing else happens (no image on the screen, unresponsive to remote control, etc.).

My family member checked out my setup and saw nothing wrong with it. They also told me that they had a similar issue when they bought it - then it suddenly resolved itself.

Any suggestions?

Should my program guide be updating everytime I go to it?
For a second I see the channel I'm viewing then it jumps to the antenna/updating thing??
I am running the latest update 9.4...

Hi - I had one of these HiSense boxes given to me by a family member. They had it hooked up and working great. After taking possession of it, I hooked it up to my TV in the same fashion, though it simply isn't working - The two lights come on, but nothing else happens (no image on the screen, unresponsive to remote control, etc.).

My family member checked out my setup and saw nothing wrong with it. They also told me that they had a similar issue when they bought it - then it suddenly resolved itself.

Any suggestions?

How is it hooked up (composite or component)? Was this type of connection the same as your other family memeber was using? The box will only output on the connection type specified in the Video setup.

dogleg69

Tonight I finally got to hookup my old vcr to my db-2010 to record a couple of my favorite thursday night shows.

After I got the time correct on both units and set all the recorder timers up etc it recorded the program flawlessly:D

Thanks for the great job on the programming!

My Walmart USDigital ATSC tuner quit last night (one year old) and I'm now looking for another atsc tuner (even if it comes with a recorder). I picked up a panasonic dmr-ez28k from circuit city last night ($196) but am not too happy with the picture. The old USD had a super-sharp picture vs the new pana. using HDMI cable.

Are there still any good atsc tuners out there for over the air use?

My tv is a rear porjection sony hd ready. It can broadcast really sharp resolutions.

Are there still any good atsc tuners out there for over the air use?

I'm in no way an expert here but I shopped around for quite along time. I'm not willing to shell out $200 on a decent tuner. If I were you I'd hit ebay for another one of these. I'll be buying another one for my projector soon.

forgot I had to actually unzip the file before I put it on the USB stick. I successfully updated from 2.7.11 to 2.9.3 today(10/4/08). I still have the other unit that quit last year. Is there any hope for fixing that one or should I trash it (had flashing red lights last September)

I'm in no way an expert here but I shopped around for quite along time. I'm not willing to shell out $200 on a decent tuner. The Samsung is available from a number of online and local retailers for ~$160.

I'm in no way an expert here but I shopped around for quite along time. I'm not willing to shell out $200 on a decent tuner. If I were you I'd hit ebay for another one of these. I'll be buying another one for my projector soon.

I have been chkg eBay but no luck... I already got a samsung 260. Its decent but not as sharp as the USDigital.

I have been chkg eBay but no luck... I already got a samsung 260. Its decent but not as sharp as the USDigital.

I Just searched on ebay for hisense and found 6 of them. You should be able to snag one for under $50. :)

I Just searched on ebay for hisense and found 6 of them. You should be able to snag one for under $50. :)

"hisense" ???

"hisense" ???That's the brand name of the receiver.

dogleg69

just a report

I left my db 2020 on for a couple of days to see if after reloading the old firmware and reloading the newest firmware would make a difference.....well channel 41 locked up the reciver as always.

I did note that when I pressed program info (the only thing that would function) it showed 12:59pm then after a reboot the time was showing 12:00pm and then of course I reset the system time......It was set to NPT(PBS) time.

I have now dug up the other 2010 I have to try it in the same way to see if it will stay up longer than 2 days...report to follow

My wallyworld unit(2010) just keeps going and going... except on saturdays watching This Old House,Ask This Old House etc on the NPT(PBS) station occasionally the sound will shut down the picture is just fine, the quickest way to get the sound back on is to press the audio button on the remote or power down the receiver and turn it back on...the sound seems to stay up constantly on all the other stations I watch....

I left my db 2020 on for a couple of days to see if after reloading the old firmware and reloading the newest firmware would make a difference.....well channel 41 locked up the reciver as always.


Great info. I called a few of the PBS stations and tried to talk to some of the engineers. May have a lead on some of the problems -- esp with the PBS broadcasts. However, I changed jobs and it is consuming me right now. Still have hope of adding a disk. Just have to find the time.

What firmware version is the most stable? I will not use the timer.

What firmware version is the most stable? I will not use the timer.

Just published a new update - 2.9.5. The only difference between 2.9.4 and 2.9.5 is fixing the video mode magic sequence. DavCorn requested this a while back and I haven't had time to publish. So, If you are running 2.9.4, and don't need the set video mode magic sequence, then you do not really need to upgrade.

The latest and most stable version is 2.9.5. Beta versions are not published. If it is on the site below, then it is a release candidate.

http://www.mediafire.com/dogleg69


2.9.5 - 2008-10-13
-----


- Add magic sequences for people without orginal remote (specifically
the RCA RCR6373/RCR6473). In addition to (from 2.9.4):

Aspect: Press Exit/Clear, 0, 0, 1, OK/Enter
CC: Press Exit/Clear, 0, 0, 2, OK/Enter
Audio: Press Exit/Clear, 0, 0, 3, OK/Enter

Add/fix the cycle video mode magic sequence (it was broken in 2.9.4):

Video: Press Exit/Clear, 0, 0, 4, OK/Enter

The original code to cycle video mode still works too:

Video: Press USDTV Guide (usually red), Aspect, USDTV Guide

The way this works is that you press one of the above video sequences
and then press a number between 1 and 5 to select the
video mode you want. The following are the video modes:
1 - Composite/S-Video
2 - Component 480i
3 - Component 480p (HDTV)
4 - Component 720p (HDTV)
5 - Component 1080i (HDTV)

This allows you to select a video mode even if there is no menu on the
screen. It is handy if you change TV's or hookup
using a different outout and you forgot to set it before hand.

Anyone ever have a problem with their box just refusing to turn on at all? We have had 3 boxes in the family for at least a couple years. All were updated to the newest firmware last fall and worked pretty well.

This month 2 of the three now refuse to turn on at all. Both indicator lights on the right remain red. They cannot be turned on using the remote nor using the button on the face of the boxes. They have been unplugged and plugged back in with no luck.

I could see one box breaking b/c of something internally, but two at the same time? Is there any other way to "trick" the box into turning on? Perhaps someone else has had a similar problem and found an easy fix?

Thanks!

dogleg69

I have tried several times and my 2 ebay units still do not like the digital channel 41. Three days and the units shut down. And yes the walmart unit still just keeps chugging along. I have no ideas why this is happening to the ebay units, I tried all the different firmware and the same thing happens within 3 days

What is the main difference between the original kernel versus the kernel we use now? Wonder if there is a difference between them that would cause this? probably not

:confused:

I purchased one of these nice boxes from ebay.....it came and has worked well. I discovered this forum and have read through most of it and decided that I wanted to upgrade my firmware. I checked my box and for software version it has 2.7.15 and for hardware version it has db2020. I downloaded and unzipped version 2.9.5 (from the windows folder) and put it on a 8GB stick formatted in fat32. I placed the stick in the usb slot, unplugged, replugged, and the machine starts out with a blue screen that says PLEASE WAIT... with a red signal light and a green power light. It stays in this state for approximately 45 seconds then the screen goes blank for about 2 seconds then flashes blue with the PLEASE WAIT message and immediately goes dark and both lights turn red. If I turn the power button on, the unit works as normal but it still has the 2.7.15 version of software running. What am I doing wrong? I also went and downloaded all the upgrades: 2.9.2, 2.9.3, and 2.9.4 and tried them with the same result. I even tried the linux version using dd293 and it did the same thing.

Hi
Can one use Hisense USDTV FTA for learning linux shell programming?
Does the processor having framebuffer for developing GUI?

thanks

dogleg69: Feel free to register on eLinux.org and add any USDTV reverse engineering info you like.

I checked my box and for software version it has 2.7.15 and for hardware version it has db2020. I downloaded and unzipped version 2.9.5 (from the windows folder) and put it on a 8GB stick formatted in fat32.

Based on what you are saying, the only thing I can think of is that the 8GB stick is too "new" or too large. I have had trouble with larger memory sticks not being recognized by the kernel.

Otherwise, everything you described was correct. The behavior you described means it either couldn't recognize the mount or the files on the stick were corrupt/not recognized.

So far what you have done is NOT install or download any firmware to the box (just saying no damage done). Make sure it is the only thing on the stick. Make sure you are getting the FTA software and not a "from subscription".


Also, I typically use a 16MB, 32MB or 128MB drive when I teste and flash. The symptoms tell me the problem is on the stick end, not the box.

Hi
Can one use Hisense USDTV FTA for learning linux shell programming?
Does the processor having framebuffer for developing GUI?

thanks

Don't quite understand what you are asking here. I would not recommed learning unix/linux shell scripting on this box. It is a stripped down kernel. The GUI is proprietary. USDTV purchase a very cool company in Florida called Metro Media. That company was a leader in linux based DTV and PVR software back in the day. USDTV purchased the company to jump start the software dev. They got rid of them the first bankruptcy.

I believe the above to be true. I didn't work for either or know anyone at either company personally. That is just want my research shows. In any case, the Metro Media folks created a platform called MediaWorks to interface with the Xilleon chip (and other chips). Too bad they went down. From what I can tell, they had a very smart team.

Should my program guide be updating everytime I go to it?
For a second I see the channel I'm viewing then it jumps to the antenna/updating thing??
I am running the latest update 9.4...

I'm no expert, but here is what I understand. The EPG comes from the PSIP from each station. The ETT in the PSIP provides the titles and times. The EIT block in the PSIP provides the detailed descriptions. Each station sends out their own PSIP information.

EITs are typically broadcast in 3 hour blocks. They are updated at hours 0, 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, and 21 in UTC.

So, the db2010 pulls the EPG information via PSIP and then calculates the next time new EIT information will be availalbe (meaning at most 3 hours). When the next time the EIT information will be available, it sets a flag that it will need to repull EPG information.

So, you will sometimes see the show you are watching, sometimes see the antenna for a short amount of time and sometimes all the data is stale and it has to parse all the data from each station (meaning it uses the tuner to cycle thru and tune to each station for a while to pull and parse its PSIP).

I did change it to only tune enabled channels and that helped a bit. It also updates when the box is off. However, this is not consistant on all my boxes. I have found that if you create a timer (use like timer 10) and set it for 2am or 4am or whenever you are watching it to come on for 2 mins and then turn off again, this helps keep the guide up to date better.

That's the best I know right now. Again, sorry for the delay in response.

Billy_tn, I have had success using a old 64mb SD memory card with USB card reader to update, good luck!

it does take a long time to read the update into memory, then it has to reboot..

Great info. I called a few of the PBS stations and tried to talk to some of the engineers. May have a lead on some of the problems -- esp with the PBS broadcasts. However, I changed jobs and it is consuming me right now. Still have hope of adding a disk. Just have to find the time.


Any progress on this PBS station problem? I'm experiencing lockups with KCET 28.1 in Los Angeles. I'm still using the original software that came with Hisense.

Any hints about what you think is causing it? Bad PSIP information? It's strange that on rare occasions it doesn't lock up. Also 28.2 .3 or .4 won't lock it up ever.

Thanks,

TIM

Originally Posted by billy_tn
I checked my box and for software version it has 2.7.15 and for hardware version it has db2020. I downloaded and unzipped version 2.9.5 (from the windows folder) and put it on a 8GB stick formatted in fat32.

Originally Posted by dogleg69
Based on what you are saying, the only thing I can think of is that the 8GB stick is too "new" or too large. I have had trouble with larger memory sticks not being recognized by the kernel.

Otherwise, everything you described was correct. The behavior you described means it either couldn't recognize the mount or the files on the stick were corrupt/not recognized.

So far what you have done is NOT install or download any firmware to the box (just saying no damage done). Make sure it is the only thing on the stick. Make sure you are getting the FTA software and not a "from subscription".


Also, I typically use a 16MB, 32MB or 128MB drive when I teste and flash. The symptoms tell me the problem is on the stick end, not the box.

I'm having the same problem (box won't load 2.9.5) and I've tried it with a 32MB compact flash formatted as FAT (too small for FAT32) and a 1GB stick formatted as FAT32. Both were fresh and clean formats with "usdigital_update.bin" as the only file on them. The software and hardware are the same as billy_tn. I got the file from your mediafire.com site. Serious bummer. :^(

Any ideas, suggestions, direction???

Jim

Hi, I just updated to 295(from 293) and it seemed to go fine, except the guide isnt updating anymore, it tries to pull data for a while but then stops and just has no channel information on any channels....anyone else see this after going to 2.9.5? I dont want to flash back to 2.9.3 if I dont have to, any help is appreciated.

Hi, I just updated to 295(from 293) and it seemed to go fine, except the guide isnt updating anymore, it tries to pull data for a while but then stops and just has no channel information on any channels....anyone else see this after going to 2.9.5? I dont want to flash back to 2.9.3 if I dont have to, any help is appreciated.

You're not the only one, mine does the same thing after updating to 2.9.5. But here's an even tougher challenge I dare anyone to fix:

I picked up a few of these boxes for $8 each locally for family to use. Both appeared to be set to the wrong video mode (no video output); I only have standard definition RCA input on my TV's. The first one I used the sub-to-fta 2.7.5 flash on, at which point the video came back, then upgraded it to 2.9.5. All done, all working- hooray! One down.

The second one refuses any upgrade. Because the video is set wrong, I have no way of checking what firmware it currently has. I know it's working because I can change channels and listen to different audio... but can't switch the video over. Any upgrade I put in does nothing. The unit checks that it is there (USB drive's LED blinks rapidly during bootup), but then won't use it. I've tried the pre-2.7.5 to 2.9.3 update; I've tried the sub-to-fta update; I've tried the 2.9.5 update. None trigger the upgrade process.

Before you say it, I don't have an original USDTV remote. I'm using a Sony RM-VL600 universal because it's the only one I can find that 1) works and 2) isn't a "learning remote" that costs over $50. And no, the latest All4One's do NOT all have the Hisense code. The URC-3021 I bought new doesn't have it, in the manual, online, or using Search. So that puts me back at square one.

Thanks to the wonderful continuing work on the firmware, if I COULD get it to update to 2.9.5, I could use the hidden shortcut to cycle video output until hitting Composite/S-video. In the meantime, I have a nice-looking brick which only produces sound :mad: I've looked at my box's 2.9.5 menus, and tried navigating it blind (Menu, down three, OK, down six, OK, OK, OK, OK...) but I guess whatever firmware it has doesn't match up to the current options. Anyone with any ideas? I'd be okay if it were broken, but it's NOT- it's just stuck on the wrong output!

Based on what you are saying, the only thing I can think of is that the 8GB stick is too "new" or too large. I have had trouble with larger memory sticks not being recognized by the kernel.
I just made a linux upgrade using a 8gb stick the db-2010 had no problem with it. It was one of the Sandisk cruzer sticks. You have to remove the U3 lauchpad software to format it correctly also linux threw up all kinds of warnings about the size of the stick......but the upgrade went fine

Before you say it, I don't have an original USDTV remote. I'm using a Sony RM-VL600 universal because it's the only one I can find that 1) works and 2) isn't a "learning remote" that costs over $50. And no, the latest All4One's do NOT all have the Hisense code. The URC-3021 I bought new doesn't have it, in the manual, online, or using Search. So that puts me back at square one. Does your Sony remote let you (on the working unit) access the guide and aspect ratio equivalent keys of an original remote? If it does try this sequence

guide
aspect
guide
2

on the original remote for these units that would change the video mode to 480i

As I remember correctly you have to enter it fairly fast try it several time to see if it will change video mode
Good Luck!

Does your Sony remote let you (on the working unit) access the guide and aspect ratio equivalent keys of an original remote?

Unfortunately not. I hadn't been able to change the aspect ratio at all until 2.9.5's addition of the secret key combos (thanks again for that!). My Sony remote works for the basics- power, guide, volume (left/right), channel (up/down), menu, exit, and OK. That's plenty 95% of the time... just not now.

Any progress on this PBS station problem? I'm experiencing lockups with KCET 28.1 in Los Angeles. I'm still using the original software that came with Hisense.

Any hints about what you think is causing it? Bad PSIP information? It's strange that on rare occasions it doesn't lock up. Also 28.2 .3 or .4 won't lock it up ever.



No progress yet. However, it appears that some PBS stations send additional "test" information in the PSIP. It's really small and shouldn't cause a problem. They are sending 2 additional PIDs - 5 total (1 video, 2 audio and 2 low trickle streams). The low trickle stream's are likely causing the problem. However, it is not so easy with the tools I have to see each stream. I'll have to check the PSIP parser code to make sure it is not blowing up on those 2 extra low trickle streams.

Plus, since it doesn't happen on the PBS station where I live, it will be very hard to test.

I'm having the same problem (box won't load 2.9.5) and I've tried it with a 32MB compact flash formatted as FAT (too small for FAT32) and a 1GB stick formatted as FAT32. Both were fresh and clean formats with "usdigital_update.bin" as the only file on them. The software and hardware are the same as billy_tn. I got the file from your mediafire.com site. Serious bummer. :^(

Any ideas, suggestions, direction???



What version do you currently have? Have you tried the linux version? Is it already an FTA or is it still a service box?

If you don't have access to linux, look in the windows dir on mediafire for the pre2.7.15 dir. Pull that and use the dd command and instructions inside to create a linux boot stick.

Hi, I just updated to 295(from 293) and it seemed to go fine, except the guide isnt updating anymore, it tries to pull data for a while but then stops and just has no channel information on any channels....anyone else see this after going to 2.9.5? I dont want to flash back to 2.9.3 if I dont have to, any help is appreciated.

Can you elaborate on what is going on? There were changes to the guide to speed it up a little bit. However, if your stations are sending PSIP information, it will pull it out. Did you wait a long time (like 3-8 minutes) for the guide to complete?

If you watch a station for a while and then press Info, is the information populated for that station?

You're not the only one, mine does the same thing after updating to 2.9.5. But here's an even tougher challenge I dare anyone to fix:

The second one refuses any upgrade. Because the video is set wrong, I have no way of checking what firmware it currently has. I know it's working because I can change channels and listen to different audio... but can't switch the video over. Any upgrade I put in does nothing. The unit checks that it is there (USB drive's LED blinks rapidly during bootup), but then won't use it. I've tried the pre-2.7.5 to 2.9.3 update; I've tried the sub-to-fta update; I've tried the 2.9.5 update. None trigger the upgrade process.



Since you are recieving audio from stations, you don't have a subscription unit. If you had an orginal remote, there is a sequence to revert to factory settings. But, if you don't have an aspect button, it is not going to work.

Do you have a linux box and a serial comm device to terminal into the box? If so, I think we could set the video mode.

Another thing you could try is to hook up your RCA video (yellow) to either a red, green or blue in the back of the usdtv box. If the video is set to composite (480i), then you will get a gray screen that is usable. However, if it is set to 480p, 720p or 1080i, you won't see anything.

Since you are recieving audio from stations, you don't have a subscription unit... If the video is set to composite (480i), then you will get a gray screen that is usable. However, if it is set to 480p, 720p or 1080i, you won't see anything.

Smart thinking on both points!

I just tried hooking the video to the R/G/B outputs, but I only get moving lines, no picture. But I just realized that my work uses HDTV's, and if I'm lucky, they have R/G/B input! If so, I can at least switch the video over. I'm really curious what firmware this unit has, since it ignores all upgrade software.

I haven't gotten a chance to watch much TV lately, so I can't explain much about the empty EPG glitch. All I know is after updating to 2.9.5, I went to the guide, and it began loading data (or so it seemed). After "completing," however, there was nothing filled in for any channel- even the one I was currently on. If I recall correctly, this did not happen the first time, but did so the second time. When I get a chance I'll play with it some more so I can describe it better. As always, thanks a ton, dogleg69!

What version do you currently have? Have you tried the linux version? Is it already an FTA or is it still a service box?

If you don't have access to linux, look in the windows dir on mediafire for the pre2.7.15 dir. Pull that and use the dd command and instructions inside to create a linux boot stick.

It's an FTA box that works. I can watch local DTV, scan for new channels, etc. I've been a linux user for over 10 years but linux and USB sticks don't like me. :^) I'm guessing that something inside the receiver might not be connected so I plan on looking there to confirm that the port is hooked up to the motherboard and that isn't the problem.

As for the linux stuff, I've included part of /var/adm/messages which tells me that the stick is found by the kernel and it's plugged into a 4 port hub. Thing is none of the /dev/sd* mounts are working. Any ideas or suggestions are most welcome.

-----------begin /var/adm/messages goodie------------

Nov 9 18:23:44 garage kernel: usb 1-1.1: new full speed USB device using uhci_hcd and address 9
Nov 9 18:23:44 garage kernel: usb 1-1.1: Product: DataTraveler 2.0
Nov 9 18:23:44 garage kernel: usb 1-1.1: Manufacturer: Kingston
Nov 9 18:23:44 garage kernel: usb 1-1.1: SerialNumber: 899801162008011514253E90Nov 9 18:23:44 garage kernel: scsi3 : SCSI emulation for USB Mass Storage devices
Nov 9 18:23:49 garage kernel: Vendor: Kingston Model: DataTraveler 2.0 Rev: 1.00
Nov 9 18:23:49 garage kernel: Type: Direct-Access ANSI SCSI revision: 02
Nov 9 18:23:49 garage kernel: Attached scsi generic sg0 at scsi3, channel 0, id 0, lun 0, type 0

-----------end /var/adm/messages goodie------------

Thanks,
Jim

I have 2.7.15. I created a linux stick using 'dd' and the box wouldn't read it. The USB port appears to have a good connection to the motherboard. Seems like no matter which memory stick I use 32MB Compact flash, 1GB USB stick, or 8GB USB stick; the receiver won't load off of it. I also tried disconnecting the antenna coax and it still wasn't having any part of it. Is there a secret, "Hold this button, stand on one foot while reading the comics, then plug the unit in" thing that might work?

Jim

Hooray! I got it off 1080p and onto Composite! :D

Here's the confusing thing... it IS a sub box after all, I think. It has firmware 2.7.5 (db2020), and most of the channels programmed in are 99-x channels that say "You are not authorized" yadda yadda. However, there are two or three existing local channels there as well, which is what I was getting audio from while blindly changing channels.

Now that I can see the screen, I'll try flashing it again and report what (if anything) happens. Heck of a lot easier to troubleshoot when you can see what's going on!

Here's the confusing thing... it IS a sub box after all, I think. It has firmware 2.7.5 (db2020), and most of the channels programmed in are 99-x channels that say "You are not authorized" yadda yadda. However, there are two or three existing local channels there as well, which is what I was getting audio from while blindly changing channels.


Make sure you grab a FromService file (otherwise the same thing will keep happening). Well, you probably already knew that because you've been on this thread for a long time.

If it is too old, it will not recognize the .bin file on the FAT filesystem. In that case the easiest is to use Linux to create a stick. If you can't get it working, let me know and I'll see what I can do.

I have 2.7.15. I created a linux stick using 'dd' and the box wouldn't read it. The USB port appears to have a good connection to the motherboard. Seems like no matter which memory stick I use 32MB Compact flash, 1GB USB stick, or 8GB USB stick; the receiver won't load off of it. I also tried disconnecting the antenna coax and it still wasn't having any part of it. Is there a secret, "Hold this button, stand on one foot while reading the comics, then plug the unit in" thing that might work?


I'm having a tough time figuring out this problem. Don't use a hub when flashing (as in do not connect the hub to the USDTV box). I don't think it is any type of bad connection inside the box. Nor does it have anything to do with the coax connection.

I'm sorry to ask this, but can we start over with your scenario? Since you have access to linux, use the makekey script with the 2.9.1 reinstall that is in the archive directory. That version was untouched by me :D

Create the stick using the above. The makekey script with verify that the key is created correctly. If that does not work, then I may be out of suggestions. If it does work, then we can upgrade from the 2.9.1.

I'm having a tough time figuring out this problem. Don't use a hub when flashing (as in do not connect the hub to the USDTV box). I don't think it is any type of bad connection inside the box. Nor does it have anything to do with the coax connection.

I'm sorry to ask this, but can we start over with your scenario? Since you have access to linux, use the makekey script with the 2.9.1 reinstall that is in the archive directory. That version was untouched by me :D

Create the stick using the above. The makekey script with verify that the key is created correctly. If that does not work, then I may be out of suggestions. If it does work, then we can upgrade from the 2.9.1.

My FTA box won't load 2.9.5 or anything else for that matter. It's a software version 2.7.15 and hardware version db2020. I'm able to get 'makekey' to create 2.9.1 on a 32MB compact flash and a 1GB stick but it won't load from either.

Jim

Hey everyone, sorry to jump in here while you're helping someone else, just a quick question. My box has been running great with version 2.9.4. This morning during pbs, it changed to a "no signal" message. powering it off/on did nothing, nor did changing the channels. I unplugged it and it came back on just fine. It just went to "no signal" again. Is my box dying? or should I go back to a different firmware? Thanks!

Hey everyone, sorry to jump in here while you're helping someone else, just a quick question. My box has been running great with version 2.9.4. This morning during pbs, it changed to a "no signal" message. powering it off/on did nothing, nor did changing the channels. I unplugged it and it came back on just fine. It just went to "no signal" again. Is my box dying? or should I go back to a different firmware? Thanks!

Box is not dying. There are reports of this happening on other PBS stations. It appears that PBS is sending extra information that causes the db2010 to lock up. Have a lead on it, just no time to try to fix it. I don't think going back to an older firmware will resolve the problem. Just need time to fix the PSIP parser (if that indeed is the issue).

Seems to only happen on certain PBS stations around the country.

Box is not dying. There are reports of this happening on other PBS stations. It appears that PBS is sending extra information that causes the db2010 to lock up. Have a lead on it, just no time to try to fix it. I don't think going back to an older firmware will resolve the problem. Just need time to fix the PSIP parser (if that indeed is the issue).

Seems to only happen PBS stations around the country.

Excellent, thanks for the info dogleg69! good to know!

My FTA box won't load 2.9.5 or anything else for that matter. It's a software version 2.7.15 and hardware version db2020. I'm able to get 'makekey' to create 2.9.1 on a 32MB compact flash and a 1GB stick but it won't load from either.


I'm about out of ideas. What version of linux are you using to make the key (running makekey on)?

You could try the revert magic sequence which will flip the box to boot off the other NAND flash. This will likely have older software on it. If you were able to upgrade from there it would overwrite your 2.7.15.

The sequence is:

Guide (Red on my remote, but mileage may vary)
Program Info
Aspect
Program Info
1 (one)


I'm not hopeful that will work, but it is all I have right now. The other option is to actually terminal into the box and try to see what is going on.

Hey everyone, sorry to jump in here while you're helping someone else, just a quick question. My box has been running great with version 2.9.4. This morning during pbs, it changed to a "no signal" message. powering it off/on did nothing, nor did changing the channels. I unplugged it and it came back on just fine. It just went to "no signal" again. Is my box dying? or should I go back to a different firmware? Thanks!

Not much of an update, but I did some reading on the PSIP standard tonight:

http://www.atsc.org/standards/a_69.pdf

See page 47, Figure 7.4. It shows that the VCT (virtual channel table) inside the PSIP indeed may have 1 video PID, 2 audio PIDs and 2 data PIDs.

I think the 2 data PIDs on the primary (elementary) major channel are causing the blow-ups in some parts of the country on the PBS stations. This may make some sense given it looks like the secondary (sub-channels) do not carry those pids. This is in line with what has been posted here about KCET in the LA area -- blows up on 28.1, but not on 28.2 or 28.3.

Keep in mind I have no idea what I'm talking about. However, I'll try to find some time to look under the covers at the TVCT or the PMT/PAT (which per the spec holds the elementary PIDs). If any of you are PSIP experts, please chime in.

I'm about out of ideas. What version of linux are you using to make the key (running makekey on)?

You could try the revert magic sequence which will flip the box to boot off the other NAND flash. This will likely have older software on it. If you were able to upgrade from there it would overwrite your 2.7.15.

The sequence is:

Guide (Red on my remote, but mileage may vary)
Program Info
Aspect
Program Info
1 (one)


I'm not hopeful that will work, but it is all I have right now. The other option is to actually terminal into the box and try to see what is going on.

I was able to run makekey on a 2.6.21.5 kernel. The sequence did cause the USDTV to reboot but it didn't read the USB port.

Jim

Box is not dying. There are reports of this happening on other PBS stations. It appears that PBS is sending extra information that causes the db2010 to lock up. Have a lead on it, just no time to try to fix it. I don't think going back to an older firmware will resolve the problem. Just need time to fix the PSIP parser (if that indeed is the issue).

Seems to only happen on certain PBS stations around the country.

After talking with my wife she said it froze on another channel later in the day. I think she said 11-1. So I guess PBS isn't the only ones doing this.

Well, I will probably never know why the updates won't take when it was in 1080p, but now on Composite it happily did the sub-to-fta conversion, then took the 2.9.5 update. I now have two perfect HDTV receivers for a whopping investment of $16! :D

Now if only I could track down a cheap remote that will work with them... I would hate to spend double what I paid for each box on a remote for them. I've got access to plenty of $2 universal remotes, but since even new ones don't have the codes, I never bothered. I wonder if a Dish Network or DirecTV universal would have the Hisense TV code? If so, that would be an awesome readily available option for everyone.

Well, I will probably never know why the updates won't take when it was in 1080p, but now on Composite it happily did the sub-to-fta conversion, then took the 2.9.5 update. I now have two perfect HDTV receivers for a whopping investment of $16! :D

Now if only I could track down a cheap remote that will work with them... I would hate to spend double what I paid for each box on a remote for them. I've got access to plenty of $2 universal remotes, but since even new ones don't have the codes, I never bothered. I wonder if a Dish Network or DirecTV universal would have the Hisense TV code? If so, that would be an awesome readily available option for everyone.

I've been told you can get a cheap learning remote now for under $20. may be worth the investment!

I've been told you can get a cheap learning remote now for under $20. may be worth the investment!

Thanks for the info, but I steer clear of "learning remotes" for a few reasons. Firstly, if it looses its memory, you need the original remote every time to reprogram it. These boxes are destined for family members as far away as the next state over, so it would be pretty awful to have to bring my remote over there for reprogramming :rolleyes: I much prefer to have a simple code to enter like my Sony. I can instruct my mother-in-law over the phone how to open the battery case, look at the code I wrote inside, and enter it in.

Also, learning remotes will always be more expensive than normal universals. Obviously some universal remotes have the Hisense code (such as my Sony one), it's just a matter of knowing which ones. It's frustrating to have access to so many for a buck or two and not know which (if any) to grab. I guess I'll start writing down model numbers and looking up each one.... if anyone has had any success with any, please shout out!

Thanks for the info, but I steer clear of "learning remotes" for a few reasons. Firstly, if it looses its memory, you need the original remote every time to reprogram it. These boxes are destined for family members as far away as the next state over, so it would be pretty awful to have to bring my remote over there for reprogramming :rolleyes: I much prefer to have a simple code to enter like my Sony. I can instruct my mother-in-law over the phone how to open the battery case, look at the code I wrote inside, and enter it in.

Also, learning remotes will always be more expensive than normal universals. Obviously some universal remotes have the Hisense code (such as my Sony one), it's just a matter of knowing which ones. It's frustrating to have access to so many for a buck or two and not know which (if any) to grab. I guess I'll start writing down model numbers and looking up each one.... if anyone has had any success with any, please shout out!

Understood. I have a harmony 880 myself, so haven't had to mess with learning remotes for quite some time. :)

I'm about out of ideas. What version of linux are you using to make the key (running makekey on)?

You could try the revert magic sequence which will flip the box to boot off the other NAND flash. This will likely have older software on it. If you were able to upgrade from there it would overwrite your 2.7.15.

The sequence is:

Guide (Red on my remote, but mileage may vary)
Program Info
Aspect
Program Info
1 (one)


I'm not hopeful that will work, but it is all I have right now. The other option is to actually terminal into the box and try to see what is going on.

I got the box to go to 2.9.3 and it is in the process of updating to 2.9.5. The following is my HOW-TO:

1. Using the windows (or windoze if you prefer) 'dd293.zip' package; unzip this file.

2. Plug in your USB stick and note the drive it's in. I used a 1GB stick.

3. Open a command window and get to the directory where your unziped 'dd293' files are.

4. Run the 'dd' file like the README says to.

5. Safely remove the USB stick and plug it into the USDTV box.

6. Use the 'secret' sequence above to cause the box to reboot. Hopefully you'll see the installation screen. If you do, go have a beverage and relax. Life is good.

7. In theory, you should be able to update to the later version of your choice now.

Thanks dogleg69 for all your help and patience. Is it possible to make a new 'dd' with the 2.9.5 version on it? That might be helpful but I can see where leaving things as they are lets us know we now do updates normally.

Thanks again,
Jim

I thought I'd share my remote searching results thus far. Scouring the web, it appears as though the following remotes are possible candidates for use as replacements for Hisense devices:

All-4-One URC-5820: Code is 0748
All-4-One URC-8820: Code is 0748
Radio Shack 3-in-1 No. 15-2147: Code is ?
Radio Shack 4-in-1 No. (?): Code is 0748
DirecTV Remote RC64: Code is 10748
Dish Network Remote (?): Code is 759

I should have access to some of these, so I will be testing them and posting the results. Even just basic power on/off and channel up/down would be great! These are nifty little boxes, but shouldn't require such a headache or hit to the wallet for a replacement remote. The Radio Shack models appear to be available in-store for $7.99 :cool: I should be able to grab some DirecTV RC64's for $2 each.

I thought I'd share my remote searching results thus far. Scouring the web, it appears as though the following remotes are possible candidates for use as replacements for Hisense devices:

All-4-One URC-5820: Code is 0748
All-4-One URC-8820: Code is 0748
Radio Shack 3-in-1 No. 15-2147: Code is ?
Radio Shack 4-in-1 No. (?): Code is 0748
DirecTV Remote RC64: Code is 10748
Dish Network Remote (?): Code is 759

I should have access to some of these, so I will be testing them and posting the results. Even just basic power on/off and channel up/down would be great! These are nifty little boxes, but shouldn't require such a headache or hit to the wallet for a replacement remote. The Radio Shack models appear to be available in-store for $7.99 :cool: I should be able to grab some DirecTV RC64's for $2 each.

That is a good list. I have an RCA RCR6473 that I do some testing with. I know it works (code 5139), but i think with shipping it ends up being around $15 retail. I think the wholesale price $4-6.

If you get one with the basic functions, try to use the clear, 0, 0, x, enter sequences. Once you choose a remote, see if it has all the mappings. If you need an additional "clear,0,0,x,ok" sequence, please post and we'll see what we can do.

I got the box to go to 2.9.3 and it is in the process of updating to 2.9.5. ...

Thanks dogleg69 for all your help and patience. Is it possible to make a new 'dd' with the 2.9.5 version on it? That might be helpful but I can see where leaving things as they are lets us know we now do updates normally.


I'm glad you got it to work. I have no idea why your box was such a pain -- still doesn't make sense. But, its upgraded and that is what matters.

I will probably not make a dd for 2.9.5. It is so confusing as it is with all the updates and different versions out there. Once you are on 2.9.5, the upgrades should work fine going forward.

Confirmed yesterday that my box is dropping to "no signal" on channels 2-1 (frq 23), 11-1 (frq 51), and 38-1 (frq 42). Any suggestions? or is this what dogleg69 mentioned earlier? Any diagnostics I can provide? We ran all of these stations a few months back with no problems. I wonder if they changed their stream somehow? Thanks!

Confirmed yesterday that my box is dropping to "no signal" on channels 2-1 (frq 23), 11-1 (frq 51), and 38-1 (frq 42). Any suggestions? or is this what dogleg69 mentioned earlier? Any diagnostics I can provide? We ran all of these stations a few months back with no problems. I wonder if they changed their stream somehow? Thanks!

When you say "dropping to no signal", what exactly are the symptoms? Does the signal come back? Do you have to unplug the box to get the box working again? How often does it happen -- immediately, only on non HD content, only on commericals, etc...?

What version were you running when "ran all of these stations a few months back with no problems"?

Are all three stations above affliated somehow?

When you say "dropping to no signal", what exactly are the symptoms? Does the signal come back? Do you have to unplug the box to get the box working again? How often does it happen -- immediately, only on non HD content, only on commericals, etc...?

What version were you running when "ran all of these stations a few months back with no problems"?

Are all three stations above affliated somehow?

Thanks for the quick response! I haven't noticed anything consistent about the issue. Just that it happened on these three stations. Basically the screen goes black and it says "no signal from station". No amount of button presses fixes it, it's as if the box is completely frozen. I have to pull the plug and it'll boot up just fine and return to normal operations. Sometimes for 30 minutes or so, sometimes less, but never immediately. I've been running 2.9.4 since it came out. I'm sorry, I don't know anything more than that at this time. I'll try to test it out this week and post more. Thanks.

It looks like the stations that were freezing were all 720p or higher.

Hi, I'm new to the DTV world and I have a db-2010. I've been reading this thread, there has been significant progress with making updates and features available for this system, great going for all that have contributed. I would also like to contribute. Is the source/build info available for 2.9.5 (or any release). I could probably get the compiler setup, if I knew some more details, and I'm looking for the source? Is there any way I could help? Is there a TODO list? I know how to program in C/C++ and am familiar with the GNU complier and tool set. Looking forward to hearing from someone about this.

Can you elaborate on what is going on? There were changes to the guide to speed it up a little bit. However, if your stations are sending PSIP information, it will pull it out. Did you wait a long time (like 3-8 minutes) for the guide to complete?

If you watch a station for a while and then press Info, is the information populated for that station?

I think I can clear up what's going on with the "blank" guide, after working with several boxes this afternoon. Here's my observations.

Problem: After flashing to v2.9.5, everything appears to work fine. The guide initially loads and displays properly. However, later on, the guide appears to be loading but no data shows.

The reason for this is actually pretty simple. When this occurs, look at the date / time shown. Mine were significantly off (almost a week and ten hours behind). So, I went and set the time channel to the next major broadcast station, then backed out to the guide. All the data was there, working as it should! It remains to be seen if this is a permanent fix, but I suspect it is. I'm theorizing that upon flashing the unit with the latest firmware, it "loses" the time channel data. Past that point, it either picks up no time data or random time data... basically making it unable to keep proper time. Then when it fetches and stores the program guide data, that isn't the block of time displayed on the screen. :D

Long story short- if you run into this issue, try resetting your time channel.

On to another point I hope you can help me with, dogleg69! I bought a few Radio Shack 3-in-1 remotes (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2150593) today to use with these boxes. It has the potential to be the perfect replacement- it's dirt cheap ($7.99); available locally everywhere; has the Hisense code included; the functions (volume, channel, Info, Menu, Guide, etc) all work exactly as they should. The one problem I'm trying to figure out is this:

On this remote, the channel up/down doubles as directional up/down. The volume up/down doubles as directional left/right. Mute/OK is one center button. This should all be just fine, since functionality should switch depending on if you are within the TV viewing GUI or the Menu interfaces. In reality, though, that doesn't seem to be the case. For example, after pressing Menu to access the setup screens, if I wait for too long or press numbers keys, the Mute/OK button stops being OK and is only Mute. Up/Down stops working properly as directional controls. The only fix seems to be to Exit all the way out of the menus and go back in. :(

I hope I've explained this well enough to understand. Any ideas? I'm pretty stumped. I'm assuming other remotes don't have this issue due to the buttons not being combined. I'm not sure how to correct this, but as-is this remote is not an acceptable replacement. If you enter numbers (say, in the nightly update menu time) the OK switches to Mute. There's no way to hit OK there unless you keep the default time. You can choose to scan for channels, but once done you can't accept and save by hitting OK... it only mutes. Scrolling up/down also stops going by one, and will only select the top or bottom choice.

My only ideas are this: There seems to be a delay of 30 to 60 seconds before OK switches to Mute and Up/Down breaks. They both do so at the same time. If this is an actual timed function, perhaps that time can be extended. It still doesn't solve the number-entering, but will make the basic functions usable. A true fix would be if Channel up/down and Mute simply stopped working while in the menus, but I'm not sure how hard that would be. As a last resort, maybe the Mute could just be broken in a special firmware? At least then channels could be scanned in.

Thanks so much for your continued work on this, dogleg69! Let me know if you have questions or need some testing done.

Problem: After flashing to v2.9.5, everything appears to work fine. The guide initially loads and displays properly. However, later on, the guide appears to be loading but no data shows.

The reason for this is actually pretty simple. When this occurs, look at the date / time shown. Mine were significantly off (almost a week and ten hours behind).

It is not suppose to lose the time channel on the upgrade. However, it could happen. Make sure that your time station is set to a channel that sends out good time.

Also, do you keep your box on all the time? If so, you will lose time because in order to get the time, it needs control of the tuner (that is in use b/c the box is always on).

Other suggestions:

- Keep the box off when it is not in use.
- Set a timer to turn the box on for 3-5 minutes in the middle of the night
- Make sure this nightly timer is the same channel as the Set System Time channel

I too have noticed strange behavior on the EPG. I set a timer as stated above and it keeps the EPG upto date pretty well. Remember that if it crosses a 3 hour boundary (midnight, 3a, 6a, 9a, noon, 3p, 6p, 9p) and the box was on during that time, your EPG will probably not be filled in. That is because the data is stale and it needs the tuner to loop through all the channels to pull the EPG from the PSIP.

On to another point I hope you can help me with, dogleg69! I bought a few Radio Shack 3-in-1 remotes (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2150593) today to use with these boxes. It has the potential to be the perfect replacement- it's dirt cheap ($7.99); available locally everywhere; has the Hisense code included; the functions (volume, channel, Info, Menu, Guide, etc) all work exactly as they should. The one problem I'm trying to figure out is this:

On this remote, the channel up/down doubles as directional up/down. The volume up/down doubles as directional left/right. Mute/OK is one center button. This should all be just fine, since functionality should switch depending on if you are within the TV viewing GUI or the Menu interfaces. In reality, though, that doesn't seem to be the case. For example, after pressing Menu to access the setup screens, if I wait for too long or press numbers keys, the Mute/OK button stops being OK and is only Mute. Up/Down stops working properly as directional controls. The only fix seems to be to Exit all the way out of the menus and go back in. :(

...

My only ideas are this: There seems to be a delay of 30 to 60 seconds before OK switches to Mute and Up/Down breaks. They both do so at the same time. If this is an actual timed function, perhaps that time can be extended. It still doesn't solve the number-entering, but will make the basic functions usable. A true fix would be if Channel up/down and Mute simply stopped working while in the menus, but I'm not sure how hard that would be. As a last resort, maybe the Mute could just be broken in a special firmware? At least then channels could be scanned in.


The timeout is logic in the RCA remote, not on the Hisense box. The db2010 has remote codes for each button = seperately for up/down left/right ch+/- vol+/-. They are not combined in the firmware. I suspect that the RCA remote says "if they didn't use any buttons while in menu mode for 30 to 60 seconds, default it back to TV". I could see this b/c if they left it in "menu mode" they would get support calls saying "my remote is broken. It doesn't change the channels anymore".

So, no joy on that particular remote to solve that problem. It seems it is functioning normally.

My unit is starting to act weird again. The problem is when the box checks for an update I lose audio and video overnight. I leave it on overnight and when I wake up I see the message "Currently off the air" dancing across the screen. This happened before and I corrected the problem by doing a channel scan without the antenna attached and then another with the antenna. This time that solution is not working. I'm afraid that it is on its last leg especially if I unplug it to move it to another location. Can anyone suggest a solution or another STB similar.

It's time you guys gave up on those things and got something better. You can pickup a Samsung SIR-TS360 or DirecTV H10 at Goodwill for a little as $6.00 sometimes and they work great. The Samsung will work on it's own but the H10 has to be connected to an old DirecTV dish, not a problem for a lot of people who already have one on the roof though.

It's time you guys gave up on those things and got something better. You can pickup a Samsung SIR-TS360 or DirecTV H10 at Goodwill for a little as $6.00 sometimes and they work great. The Samsung will work on it's own but the H10 has to be connected to an old DirecTV dish, not a problem for a lot of people who already have one on the roof though.

No thank you.

My unit is starting to act weird again. The problem is when the box checks for an update I lose audio and video overnight. I leave it on overnight and when I wake up I see the message "Currently off the air" dancing across the screen. This happened before and I corrected the problem by doing a channel scan without the antenna attached and then another with the antenna. This time that solution is not working. I'm afraid that it is on its last leg especially if I unplug it to move it to another location. Can anyone suggest a solution or another STB similar.

What version of software are you running? The newer versions do not check for updates.

It's time you guys gave up on those things and got something better. You can pickup a Samsung SIR-TS360 or DirecTV H10 at Goodwill for a little as $6.00 sometimes and they work great. The Samsung will work on it's own but the H10 has to be connected to an old DirecTV dish, not a problem for a lot of people who already have one on the roof though.

I still use mine everyday. I enjoy it. The box is not the most sensitive and does not handle multi-path well. However, I like the features and all my boxes have been stable.

I concur. I love this box especially after the newer software updates.

what version of software are you running? The newer versions do not check for updates.

2.9.3

2.9.3

I would go ahead and upgrade. The 2.9.4 had a number of fixes in it. Does the "off the air" happen on any station or only one or two? This could be the same problem as the PBS/FOX/etc... I thought we had a fix for it. smintn helped test since has this issue on one station. The fix did not work for him.

If you upgrade and it happens on any station, that does not sound promising. Are you willing to upgrade and report back?

The latest version is 2.9.5 and is located:

http://www.mediafire.com/dogleg69

I would go ahead and upgrade. The 2.9.4 had a number of fixes in it. Does the "off the air" happen on any station or only one or two? This could be the same problem as the PBS/FOX/etc... I thought we had a fix for it. smintn helped test since has this issue on one station. The fix did not work for him.

If you upgrade and it happens on any station, that does not sound promising. Are you willing to upgrade and report back?

The latest version is 2.9.5 and is located:

http://www.mediafire.com/dogleg69

Good News: update was successful

Bad News: still have the same problem. Did an automatic channel scan and it says no channels found, even though some of them are coming in at 97%. When I go to adjust antenna it shows a strong signal with just a black screen no audio or video.

I got the box to go to 2.9.3 and it is in the process of updating to 2.9.5. The following is my HOW-TO:

1. Using the windows (or windoze if you prefer) 'dd293.zip' package; unzip this file.

2. Plug in your USB stick and note the drive it's in. I used a 1GB stick.

3. Open a command window and get to the directory where your unziped 'dd293' files are.

4. Run the 'dd' file like the README says to.

5. Safely remove the USB stick and plug it into the USDTV box.

6. Use the 'secret' sequence above to cause the box to reboot. Hopefully you'll see the installation screen. If you do, go have a beverage and relax. Life is good.

7. In theory, you should be able to update to the later version of your choice now.

Thanks dogleg69 for all your help and patience. Is it possible to make a new 'dd' with the 2.9.5 version on it? That might be helpful but I can see where leaving things as they are lets us know we now do updates normally.

Thanks again,
Jim

Hi, I'm new, I have the DB-2010 and version 2.7.11
I've tried the above and it did not work unless the command prompt I didn't do right. After command prompt what should it say?
Thanks,
Andrew

If I remember correctly, it takes a long time to run the 'dd' process to completion. Once the command prompt returns, the stick should be ready to go.

Good luck,
Jim

But it didn't take long, took about a split second. It would be going for a second and then say:

or does will it say Complete when done??