...
However there are enough possibilities that the repair decision tree is very bushy, particularly debug if parts are replaced and something is still wrong. Was it bad replacement parts? The wrong (correct c,v values but insufficient ripple current rating) replacement parts? Replacement parts that sat on the warehouse shelf too long and needed re-forming to avoid overheating at first turn on and possible explosion? Bad solder technique? Faulty parts other than electrolytics? Parts made faulty during unsoldering and resoldering? How to repair lifted traces damaged by too much heat? Blew up supply by running without connecting load? Blew up receiver due to out of control power supply? Many possibilities, so little time...


Wow! Thanks for the links and writing this up. I don't know whether I will attempt or not. It is a little overwhelming.

wlw055 took me up on my offer for my dead PSUs. So, I will have to dig something else up to practice on. I may just have to stick to software. But then again, I have learned so much on the journey with this box, might as well continue the learning.

Thanks again for writing this up.

Hello,

I have had this box for a few years now. A year or so ago I replaced the PSU. Then, recently, my signal strength has dropped, and it goes in and out - once in awhile it will flash a video still and play a short blip of audio.

Anyone seen this before? Another PSU problem? :(

Thanks.

Unfortunately, it does sound like the PSU. I had two boxes that would only pickup a few stations -- which was odd b/c the others on the same setup would pick up 30+. I thought it was the tuner. I switched the tuner out with a known good one --- no change. I changed out the PSU and it fixed the problem.

well i found some capacitors locally at radio shack installed them in my psu that was having signal and remote issues and so far so good box is working normally again.
note i just carried in my psu and the radioshack rep found me the right capacitors.
also as others have stated above make sure that you put the new caps in the way the old ones came out. on the capacitors i took out and the new ones i put in i made sure that the negative post went in the negative side so as not to short out the psu.
also i made sure box cover was on to protect from bad things happening at power up.
i used a 25 watt soldering pensil and my trusty solder sucker makes the job easy.

There are still many of these floating around on Ebay. Are they worth buying for OTA HD tuners. I have an older CRT and I am interested in something like this.

There are still many of these floating around on Ebay. Are they worth buying for OTA HD tuners. I have an older CRT and I am interested in something like this.

I still think they are nice and have a very good picture quality. I use it as my primary tuner to watch broadcast TV. I also like the EPG guide.

The downsides are the tuner is older and not as sensitive -- meaning you have to have a stronger signal. The antenna setup you have will determine if this is an issue for you. The other downside that we on this forum have found is that the power supply units fail. We have not been able to determine why aside from cheap capacitors were used.

Some of the others on the forum have successfully replaced these capacitors and written instructions on how to do this.

If you can get a USDTV db-2010 cheap enough, I would grab one and see if you like it. One other big positive, in my opinion, is that we have a very knowledgable community on this forum to help fix issues with this unit.

I got one relatively cheap on ebay. Less than $40. For any kind of ATSC tuner, that's a fantastic price, and I am thoroughly thrilled with this box. My only issue with it is that it won't keep the correct time unless turned off. I never turn the box off, so I have to go into settings every so often to get the time correct.
The EPG is a great feature.

Do these units get all the local stations with no problems.

I have heard horror stories with the Voom and TVGOS.

I got one relatively cheap on ebay. Less than $40. For any kind of ATSC tuner, that's a fantastic price, and I am thoroughly thrilled with this box. My only issue with it is that it won't keep the correct time unless turned off. I never turn the box off, so I have to go into settings every so often to get the time correct.
The EPG is a great feature.

You may try to keep the box off/standby and set a timer for say 2am for 5 minutes. Set it to the channel that you also have set to get the system time from. When the timer fires, it will turn the box on and change to that channel. When the timer expires, it turns the box off/standby and uses the unused tuner to grab the current time.

Its what I do to help keep the time upto date.

Do these units get all the local stations with no problems.

I have heard horror stories with the Voom and TVGOS.

They receive all OTA stations with a decent signal. I get over 30 including sub-channels with my antenna configuration.

Do these units get all the local stations with no problems.

I have heard horror stories with the Voom and TVGOS.Not sure what you mean by that - the VOOM tuners don't even use TVGOS.

TVGOS locks them up.

Thats all.

----

My basic question about these boxes are they reliable?

My basic question about these boxes are they reliable?

Yes. The main issue is the PSU as discussed earlier -- this is hit and miss so far. I think the box is worth it based on PQ and EPG.

I have posted couple month ago that the power board went dead for my tuner (changed a dead resistor last time and still not working). Finally someone helped to figure out the dead electronics in the board are those two:CR1, a switching rectifier and DZ1. Can someone help to check what exactly those are with the parameters so I can buy some to replace? Thanks a lot!

Updates: really thanks for wally94087's sketch. Changed CR1 and DZ1 and also 5 caps. Had two problems as many people had: two green lights (signal & power) always on and none responsive to remote. Now when power is on, signal is red and power is green. However, still no USDTV logo shown up in TV screen and remote seems not working. (push the power button, no change too, the Antena signal should be totally fine). Any suggestion is appreciated!!!

Been a reader of this thread for quite a while and have loved the DB2010.. However, I think I may be starting to have what seems like PSU problems,

My signal will read 85-95% and then drop out to zero randomly. It seems to be happening more and more frequently. I have 2 other non Hisense OTA receivers that I tried and this does not happen. However, the others are NOT HD if that matters.

When the signal drops out, sometimes PLEASE WAIT will stay up on the screen and I cannot shut off the unit by the front or remote. It is completely unresponsive with 1 red and 1 green light remaining on the front.

Any suggestions or links to start trouble shooting this thing?

I'm using the latest firmware posted here..

Thanks guys

Been a reader of this thread for quite a while and have loved the DB2010.. However, I think I may be starting to have what seems like PSU problems,

My signal will read 85-95% and then drop out to zero randomly. It seems to be happening more and more frequently. I have 2 other non Hisense OTA receivers that I tried and this does not happen. However, the others are NOT HD if that matters.

When the signal drops out, sometimes PLEASE WAIT will stay up on the screen and I cannot shut off the unit by the front or remote. It is completely unresponsive with 1 red and 1 green light remaining on the front.

Any suggestions or links to start trouble shooting this thing?

I'm using the latest firmware posted here..

Thanks guys

Yes, that is exactly how it starts. Per many posts here, it appears to be bad capacitors. I had the exact same symptoms as you. I replaced it with a known good PSU and have not had problems since.

Any suggestions on where to get a good PSU? :)

I inspected the board and I see no damaged or leaking caps :confused:

I have completed my firmware updates and I continue to have lockups about 10 minutes into watching TV. It requires a reboot to make the system come back up, and it appears to be on one channel mostly...channel 4 our NBC station. (Albuquerque)

I have tried changing the settings to get the system time from various stations with no luck. Anyone have any ideas?

I had abandoned using my USDTV boxes for a while because tuning in Salt Lake City channel 2 (CBS) would cause the box to say that all channels were off the air. I would have to unplug it and plug it back in again to get it to work. I called the chief engineer there and he noted the problem and that others had complained. A month or two later he called me and said Mitsubishi sets were having the problem too, and he took up the matter with the vendor of their TV station infrastructure, who eventually provided a remedy. I'm back to running 3 of these boxes with no problems. I've replaced the capacitors in the power supply on 2 of them, but capacitor/power supply work would not have fixed my channel 2 problem.

The caps I replaced in my PSUs had no external signs of failure. A 1000uf 6.3 volt measured about 500 uf on my cap meter on both boxes. I'll try to find my notes on which cap that was. If a cap fails a meter check, it is really bad. To test a cap completely, you need an Equivalent Series Resistance meter, which I don' have.

I have completed my firmware updates and I continue to have lockups about 10 minutes into watching TV. It requires a reboot to make the system come back up, and it appears to be on one channel mostly...channel 4 our NBC station. (Albuquerque)

I have tried changing the settings to get the system time from various stations with no luck. Anyone have any ideas?

Having the same problem as well. :mad:

My OTA DB-2010 goes into a continuous reboot loop at power on.
Is there a fix?

The caps I replaced in my PSUs had no external signs of failure. A 1000uf 6.3 volt measured about 500 uf on my cap meter on both boxes. I'll try to find my notes on which cap that was. If a cap fails a meter check, it is really bad. To test a cap completely, you need an Equivalent Series Resistance meter, which I don't have.

Back when I still did component level repair, if I measured an electrolytic filter cap to have half its labeled capacitance, I would probably have replaced it, because it would only get lower over time, but the precision of those capacitor's values are often +100% to -50% and I can't imagine a regulated power circuit failing just because the actual filter capacitance was half of a filter capacitor's labeled value.

Only the +3.3 volts is regulated thru the optically isolated feedback path that eventually controls the duty cycle of the pulse width modulator IC. The +12, +5, and +30 volt supplies operate at a voltages determined by the respective turns ratios of the inverter transformer and also the degree to which the load drains whatever output filter capacitance is really present as opposed to the rating on the label. With capacitance at the lower spec limit the heavily loaded +5 V supply might sag more between each 59 kHz rate pulse, and have a lower (but tolerable) average value as well as more ripple. The +5 is not directly regulated.

But it gets worse. The capacitors at the output also have to smooth variations in load current from causing voltage ripple too large for the load to tolerate. On the +5V supply, there is 400 mA peak to peak ripple measured superimposed on an average 475 mA average DC current load, measured on the load side output wires. This is only the swing that the limited bandwidth HP 428B plus an oscilloscope can see; at the higher logic switching glitch frequencies the peak transient current might be even greater. The load circuit consists of parts that cause transients, and parts that can tolerate only power between +4.75 V and +5.25 V. The decoupling capacitors on the load board(s) plus C15 and C14 thru L1 have to hold the voltage within this range or all bets are off.

(Similarly, the +3.3 V supply sees roughly 250 mA peak to peak ripple and C11 and C12 have to hold voltage within load tolerance for the duration between 59 kHz inverter regulated correction pulses.)

But it gets worse still. Aging aluminum electrolytic capacitors dry out and degrade faster in ESR than in capacitance. The increased ESR means more IR voltage drop during load variations, therefor increasing chances for voltage out of spec from combined inverter ripple and load transient induced ripple. If you see 50% lower than label capacitance, while this might be the edge of manufacturing tolerance for capacitance, it also might be the result of aging in which case the ESR is likely out of spec. Capacitance at the lower limit combined with significantly increased ESR can put the ripple voltage out of spec. Unfortunately to be analytical about this, ESR meters, even surplus used ones, cost far more that the capacitors C9,11,12,14,15,17.

Suggestion: Generally I abhor shotgun troubleshooting but for aluminum electrolytics I make an exception for those lacking the instrumentation. Temporarily only, tack solder correct valued new caps across the old ones, carefully observing polarity to avoid unfortunate incidents. If your problem goes away you can undertake a proper installation of the replacements. For C11,12,14,15 that have to handle high ripple currents, the physically biggest correct valued replacements that will fit will likely be the best choices for long lived replacements.

I still have one of these boxes. I moved to a DVR so it's just sitting here. It worked great for OTA grabbed more than some of my PC tuners.

I might just ebay it as I don't need it any more...

I still have one of these boxes. I moved to a DVR so it's just sitting here. It worked great for OTA grabbed more than some of my PC tuners.

I might just ebay it as I don't need it any more...

Same boat here. I moved to a DVR when the PSU went out on this unit.
My question: Is it worth anything to anyone anymore? It worked great before the PSU went out. Do I sell it? Or is it recycle/garbage at this point?

How do I convert a subscription unit (2.7.15) to OTA using Windows XP?

How do I convert a subscription unit (2.7.15) to OTA using Windows XP?

1. Go to http://www.mediafire.com/dogleg69 > windows
2. Download the usdtvUpdate295ForWindowsFAT.zip file.
3. Follow the instructions instide the zip

You will need a USB stick/device. Sometimes in the past there has been issues using a large (over 1GB stick). Post if you have questions.

1. Go to
2. Download the usdtvUpdate295ForWindowsFAT.zip file.
3. Follow the instructions instide the zip

You will need a USB stick/device. Sometimes in the past there has been issues using a large (over 1GB stick). Post if you have questions.

Unit did not convert, it is a subscription unit. The 295 Readme:
This update is only for unit that currently receives an FTA signal. It also only works if you have
version 2.7.15 or higher running on your box currently. If you still have a subscription unit or older
software, you need to get the software to update it to FTA.

I used a 128Mb, FAT32 USB memory stick which flashed during boot up.
What is the location of the update to FTA software?

Unit did not convert, it is a subscription unit. I used a 128Mb, FAT32 USB memory stick which flashed during boot up.
What is the location of the update to FTA software?
Sorry, it has been a long time. Look in the directory on the mediafire/dogleg69/windows/archive.

Grab the fromService293.zip. It should have instructions. After that, then upgrade to the 2.9.5 version that you already pulled. Let me know.

Sorry, it has been a long time. Look in the directory on the mediafire/dogleg69/windows/archive.

Grab the fromService293.zip. It should have instructions. After that, then upgrade to the 2.9.5 version that you already pulled. Let me know.

It worked! Thank you very much.

Hi everyone, I recently purchased one of the HiSense DB-2010 boxes off of ebay, and I'm having some problems with it. I'm trying to figure out if there's a solution to it or if it's just a bad box. I am able to get power to the unit, and I'm even able to get the green power light to come on/off when I press the main power button. However, I get no video output at all, nothing from composite cables, component cables, or s-video. Unfortunately, I didn't get a remote with it, so I'm limited as to what I can do, but I'll buy a universal remote for it if I know that the box is usable.

Anyone ever experienced this problem before, and any ideas on how to solve it?

Hi everyone, I recently purchased one of the HiSense DB-2010 boxes off of ebay, and I'm having some problems with it. I'm trying to figure out if there's a solution to it or if it's just a bad box. I am able to get power to the unit, and I'm even able to get the green power light to come on/off when I press the main power button. However, I get no video output at all, nothing from composite cables, component cables, or s-video. Unfortunately, I didn't get a remote with it, so I'm limited as to what I can do, but I'll buy a universal remote for it if I know that the box is usable.

Anyone ever experienced this problem before, and any ideas on how to solve it?

Do you have it plugged up to an antenna? Is there any audio being produced? Are there two green lights on the front or red/green?

Do you have it plugged up to an antenna? Is there any audio being produced? Are there two green lights on the front or red/green?

Hi dogleg69, yes, I have a antenna plugged into the back coax port. This same coax feed is able to obtain digital OTA channels from the antenna when I plug it in a digital->analog converter box.

I don't get any audio coming out of the Hisense box either. I don't get any video or audio output at all, no menu, no "no signal" message or anything.

When I turn the box on, only the power light turns green, the other one stays red. However, occasionally after resetting the box they will both stay green for about 5-10 seconds, then go back to red. I also tried using the "From Service to FTA" firmware patch from your mediafire page, just blindly hoping that would help, but it didn't.

Hi dogleg69, yes, I have a antenna plugged into the back coax port. This same coax feed is able to obtain digital OTA channels from the antenna when I plug it in a digital->analog converter box.

I don't get any audio coming out of the Hisense box either. I don't get any video or audio output at all, no menu, no "no signal" message or anything.

When I turn the box on, only the power light turns green, the other one stays red. However, occasionally after resetting the box they will both stay green for about 5-10 seconds, then go back to red. I also tried using the "From Service to FTA" firmware patch from your mediafire page, just blindly hoping that would help, but it didn't.

First you can't do a lot without the original remote or a good universal remote

How are you feeding the video to your tv?
if you are using the component outs there is a slim chance to see if anything is happening by running the green output to the tvs green component input you should see a black and white image.......still the problem is that you need the remote to change the video resolution to a resolution that the tv will reconize hence the problem from buying on ebay in that a remote is not included. Possibly the unit is set to the original owners scanned channels that are not the same in your area.

Let us know how and which outputs you are using for video.....as near as I can tell from the manual the sequence must have an orignal remote or a correctly set universal remote to get the resolution to change. someone in the forum may have an extra remote I think I might be able to help on that pm me about it

If a universal remote is set correctly where the codes can trigger guide,
aspect, exit, program info and 0 it will do a unit reset and I think it will reset the video to composite then you'd be able to see if it is outputing any video on the composite......let me check that out first....it does reset the video output to composite (yellow output)

A universal remote like a harmony 550 would be your best bet they have the correct codes to set up the remote for a db-2010 to be able to do this

Huma79

What happened to you?
I was going to help you with your db-2010 if I could.......

First you can't do a lot without the original remote or a good universal remote

How are you feeding the video to your tv?
if you are using the component outs there is a slim chance to see if anything is happening by running the green output to the tvs green component input you should see a black and white image.......still the problem is that you need the remote to change the video resolution to a resolution that the tv will reconize hence the problem from buying on ebay in that a remote is not included. Possibly the unit is set to the original owners scanned channels that are not the same in your area.

Let us know how and which outputs you are using for video.....as near as I can tell from the manual the sequence must have an orignal remote or a correctly set universal remote to get the resolution to change. someone in the forum may have an extra remote I think I might be able to help on that pm me about it

If a universal remote is set correctly where the codes can trigger guide,
aspect, exit, program info and 0 it will do a unit reset and I think it will reset the video to composite then you'd be able to see if it is outputing any video on the composite......let me check that out first....it does reset the video output to composite (yellow output)

A universal remote like a harmony 550 would be your best bet they have the correct codes to set up the remote for a db-2010 to be able to do this

Hi smintn, thanks for your reply. I've been trying your suggestions and a few other things since the last post. I've tried feeding the db-2010's green component alone to the TV green component in, but still no luck. My TV also has composite and s-video inputs, and I've tried them each individually with the box, but still nothing.

I also opened the box up to make sure there were no loose connections or burnt circuity, but everything seemed ok inside.

One thing that surprised me yesterday is that I noticed the signal light was occasionally changing to green, which I suppose means that it is in fact getting signal, but as you said, the problem is the video output.

At your suggestion of getting a remote, I decided to look into what worked with the box. The harmony remote just seemed a bit pricey, so I ended up ordering an all4one remote, and I also ordered a JP1 cable to custom program it since it appears that ordinarily it wouldn't have the "aspect" button otherwise. They should be arriving soon, hopefully tomorrow!

The harmony remote just seemed a bit pricey, so I ended up ordering an all4one remote, and I also ordered a JP1 cable to custom program it since it appears that ordinarily it wouldn't have the "aspect" button otherwise. They should be arriving soon, hopefully tomorrow!
Good choice in a remote, the jp1 forum basically has all the info
you need to set the codes for it. I had one that worked very well the codes for the 2010 are there. I had forgotten about that remote. I upgraded to the harmony because I had added a couple of dvd recorders to my system and it quickly outgrew the 4inone.

If it gets you going study how to set the macros on it...its really slick to be able to press the remote and have all the inputs and audio/video set automatically

Fingers crossed hoping you have a working box
Good Luck!

Well, I just thought I'd update everyone. I got my one-4-all (model URC-10820N) and JP1 USB adapter and successfully programmed it to run on the HiSense, with the aspect button and all working. The only thing I'm wondering is if both GUIDE buttons are supported, since the original remote seems to have 2 of them (Channel guide & USBTV guide).

However, it all worked out in the end, because out of desperation I tried running the "FromService" firmware update again using an older 512MB USB drive, and it WORKED! It updated the firmware, and I got a picture! I guess the problem before was that I was using a newer 1GB thumb drive. Thanks for the help, everyone!

I just received this box from ebay and read this thread most of the way through and because of that, I got the box up and running and updated. The previous owner used it only for OTA with a good indoor antenna. I have an old RadioShack 15-1838 antenna that picked up a few stations before the digital switch, one near perfect and a few fuzzy channels. I get 0% on all stations with it using this box. We are not allowed rooftop antennas in our neighborhood and I have no real attic, I'm looking for a good (great) indoor antenna. Antennaweb showed every color in the spectrum for my location and I'm 30.6 miles from the towers. RadioShack employees are about as helpful as FEMA after a hurricane, and all links on this site are random Google ads, any suggestions?

One thing I didn't see covered anywhere in this thread was, interference issues with digital signals. When I was receiving analog, turning on a PC would effectively kill any UHF/VHF/FM reception. Does this still apply?

When you say "not allowed rooftop antennas in our neighborhood" are you referring to an HOA? They can't stop you from putting up an antenna so I would put up a big one anyway.

When you say "not allowed rooftop antennas in our neighborhood" are you referring to an HOA? They can't stop you from putting up an antenna so I would put up a big one anyway.

Like stevec50 said, put up a really good roof-top antenna, and if any of the local mucketty-mucks tell you you can't, politely tell them that the Federal Government says you can, then show them this fact sheet straight from the FCC's regulations, (which usurps any neighborhood, local, or state regulations when it comes to Digital TV Antennas):

http://www.fcc.gov/mb/facts/otard.html

That is providing that the rooftop is your property. :)

We are not allowed rooftop antennas in our neighborhood

Me neither; HOA owns my roof (multi-family dwelling), so I sympathize. The one I got is a predecessor of this one:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/RCA+-+Indoor/Outdoor+TV+Antenna/8452079.p?id=1183767791646&skuId=8452079

Had it about 2 years now in my attic and works incredibly well. We were amazed to watch the Oscars and suddenly have not only HDTV picture but 5.1 surround sound. I didn't even know the DB2010 was capable of that.

One thing I didn't see covered anywhere in this thread was, interference issues with digital signals. When I was receiving analog, turning on a PC would effectively kill any UHF/VHF/FM reception. Does this still apply?

No. The beauty of digital is that though antennas aren't perfect, garbage disposals, PCs, and vacuum cleaners no longer cast the "snow storm" interference. The only interference I receive will cause 1-2 second audio outages (frequently) on some channels, regardless of appliances in the house. If you do get some interference, make sure that you're using dogleg69's latest build. That made a huge difference on my box. Since you have a full spectrum in your location, I doubt you'll have any problems.

Enjoy!

I just wanted to post a "thank you" for the version 295 update that adds a working timer and programmable channel change to the Hisense USDTV DB-2010 receiver. I used a DANE ELEC 128mb usb drive from WalGreens for the upgrade, formatted it to FAT32 in XP, and added the usdigital_update.bin by copying it to the usb flash drive. I made sure the receiver was currently updated to version 2.7.15 or higher, and the procedure went thru without a flaw. (The receiver is OFF at the start, then unplugged, and replugged, to begin the update procedure).

The new timer feature is absolutely great, and displays all 10 settings on screen. It also features Daily, M-F, Sat-Sun-Mon-etc quick settings, just like an easy-to-use VCR. So I went right to eBay and purchased another DB-2010 for backup. I should add, the Component output on the DB-2010 is really good, and perfect for a DVD recorder.

Something I had forgotten, the DB-2010 outputs a signal to either component or composite, but not to both at the same time. And isn't it strange, how a large, expensive LG digital TV ----> Does NoT HAvE AnY tImEr aT aLL !!! :eek:

Thanks.

I have a db-2010 updated to the latest firmware 2.9.5. I reset to factory defaults using the remote control keys. I scan the channels and everything works as it should. I can go into PBS (channel 38 here) and I'm getting 99% signal strength. For some reason on certain channels the box will lock up and say "no signal". It will allow me to change channels once or twice and even go into the guide and move around. However, it will continue to say "no signal" even if I power it off/on again. Resetting to factory defaults will fix it. However the problem comes back. I haven't tried unplugging it to reset the tuner, I'll try that next. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

I just wanted to post a "thank you" for the version 295 ...

Thanks for taking the time to post. I am glad it worked.

I have a db-2010 updated to the latest firmware 2.9.5. I reset to factory defaults using the remote control keys. I scan the channels and everything works as it should. I can go into PBS (channel 38 here) and I'm getting 99% signal strength. For some reason on certain channels the box will lock up and say "no signal". It will allow me to change channels once or twice and even go into the guide and move around. However, it will continue to say "no signal" even if I power it off/on again. Resetting to factory defaults will fix it. However the problem comes back. I haven't tried unplugging it to reset the tuner, I'll try that next. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Are the "certain channels" that lockup the box PBS stations? A fewer of the members here had that issue with the PBS station in LA. I actually called and spoke to a tech at PBS in LA.

There is some info on it:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15050209#post15050209

The basics are some stations put test PIDs in the stream and the db2010 does not seem to be able to handle it. I did try putting in a bit of code to throw away "extra" information. However, since it does not happen in my location, it was impossible for me to test given the equipment I have. I think that is in the 2.9.6 version that I never released.

Unfortunately, I have absolutely no time to do this anymore. If anyone has time to do it, send me a message. You will need experience in C/C++ (expert level), linux, scripting, embedded systems, make, GUI event architecture and lots of patience.

Thanks for the quick response. You know, after about 3 resets, I figured out that it seems the two weakest stations may be causing it to hang up. I did one last reset, scanned for stations, dropped the 2 weak stations and it's been working fine. At least I should say we watched it for about 4 hours on different stations and it's working great. maybe it was a fluke? I also was able to shorten the coax run about 1/3rd, so maybe that helped the signal quality too.

thanks!

Does anyone know where to buy the power supply for these anymore? Mine went out (flashing power light) and that proserv site seems to be all guns now.

Does anyone know where to buy the power supply for these anymore? Mine went out (flashing power light) and that proserv site seems to be all guns now.

PM me. I will check and see if I have any PS or other parts. I have a few boxes with parts in it from the work I did.

The PBS station coming from Baltimore is dead as well. I get 20+ stations, but PBS and WUTB and CW seemed to die when I put up the RCA mini yagi antenna. The grey square Phillips antenna that Walmart sells for $30ish pulled only those 3 channels in....hmmmm.

The PBS station coming from Baltimore is dead as well. I get 20+ stations, but PBS and WUTB and CW seemed to die when I put up the RCA mini yagi antenna. The grey square Phillips antenna that Walmart sells for $30ish pulled only those 3 channels in....hmmmm.
A Yagi is uni-directional (careful aim usually required), the Philips is bi-directional (front and back and broader beam). Double check directions?

I was given a friends old one. The tuner does not appear to be remotely as sensitive as my converter boxes but signal strength may be an issue where it is located.

I plugged the unit to AC and forgot to press the front button to turn it OFF first. The box is toasted now. Both LED lights are blinking rapidly.

The power supply board is toasted, where can I get a replacement for the power supply board? does anyone here have one for sale? or knows how to fix it?

I already sent an email to proserv1 but no reply yet and I don't think they have this box anymore

thanks

Pressing the button before you unplug/plug in should not have an effect (it is solid state not mechanical). In any case, if both led lights are blinking, that is the power supply.

There are some posts about the schematics regarding the PSU. There have been a handful of people with the right skills that were able to repair the PSU (I am not one of those).

I have some extra boxes (all parts are good). Send me a PM if you are interested.

Hello, I'm a dealer and in supply of pretty well all the parts for a Hisense DB-2010
including Power Supply-$10.00, Tuner-$15.00 or Remote with aspect-format button for
$15.00....I ship anywhere in North America for $7.00 ..I can be reached at lighthouse@lighthouse.terago.biz (care of Berry) or just post on this thread...

The above is a possible source for PSU and other parts. It is from:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16166307#post16166307

Did anyone have success contacting this person Berry?



The schematics (best we have) are from wally94087. Thanks for doing that wally94087. There are a few posts:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17927700#post17927700

Post number #1496, #1497 and #1498 are great information.

Many years ago there were reports of a similar problem (with much earlier versions of the software) and several measures to achieve a reset. Start with the problem description in post 785 and read ahead at least to post 793 for suggested reset sequences with the remote and with the power button...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11823030#post11823030

It is possible that the power supply went bad, but try these first before more drastic measures. :)

To Wally94987: could you please provide a higher resolution of the circuit diagram you posted on Flickr. The current resolution on Flickr is very limited, I tried to print it out but the handwriting such as diode number, your hand-written notes, etc. are not readable at the current resolution.

thanks

Not sure why flickr crunched my original and limited it to 640x495:confused:. So I took two shots of the drawing for you to print and tape together.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/by_wally/5390655897/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/by_wally/5391259534/

Within flickr, select Actions: view all sizes and you should be able to download a large jpeg that you can photo edit and/or print at a size independent of your browser screen.

Not sure why flickr crunched my original and limited it to 640x495:confused:. So I took two shots of the drawing for you to print and tape together.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/by_wally/5390655897/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/by_wally/5391259534/

Within flickr, select Actions: view all sizes and you should be able to download a large jpeg that you can photo edit and/or print at a size independent of your browser screen.

Thank-you Wally94087 for posting the higher resolution images.

As I mentioned earlier, my Hisense box is currently flashing 2 LED green lights very rapidly. This happened when I moved my box to another location, I forgot to turn if OFF before unplugging and replugging the AC power.

I tried the various reset sequence using the remote, no luck.

My power supply board does not issued any meaningful voltages, it is supposed to provide 2.7V, 3V, 5V, 12V, 30V etc. at the connector. However, I can only measure a couple of mV.

There were 3 capacitors at the low-voltage side that bulged up, I replaced those but still no luck.

The primary side is good. The fuse is good. I have about 160VDC at the output of the rectifier bridge. From there, my skills are limited, I don't know how to further diagnose the problem.

I was told that the transformer is the type ''switching transformer'' I believe it has 4 input legs and 5 output legs. How can I test it? could you please provide some hints how I can further diagnose it?

thank you

First verify that your power supply really corresponds to the one I have. If not, you should mark up changes especially in part designators and post your drawing for future discussions. You refer to 2.7V output; that I do not have on my drawing.

Highly abbreviated theory of ops: C1 is charged by bridge to provide main DC power to be used by switcher. 150K resistor provides initial current to start up AZ3842 switch controller chip. Pin 6 drives Q1 power FET switch full on and full off, but with inversely varying duty cycle according to an opto-isolated sample of the 3.3V output, which is the only one output that is voltage regulated. The rest go as turns ratios of the output windings. Q1 drives the primary winding of the transformer, which has a dedicated winding and D7/C2 power section to more robustly drive the AZ3842 continuously without overheating the 150K startup resistor. All other windings are rectified to provide four different STB DC outputs

Taking care to avoid electric shock, what DC voltage do you have across C2? Should be at least +12V and less than +25V across C2, and make an AC measurement also to verify very low mV of ripple. If there are problems here, check the 150K resistor value, check D7, replace C2. If C2 shorts, it can then short D7 which can then ruin any replacement C2 you install. If you measure different values of AC ripple when you reverse probe polarity, report this also; some multimeters inaccurately report AC when measuring in the presence of DC voltage.

You can also turn the thing off, verify C1 has discharged, then measure the transformer sections to verify 1.88 ohms primary, .73 ohms bootstrap power winding, and then with respect to the secondary ground terminal, the .22 ohms, .05 ohms, .04 ohms, and 1.25 ohms output windings. Subtract the measured resistance value of your probes when shorted together to get a more accurate reading. You may have to clean your probe tips with steel wool and scrape any insulating film off of the solder pads under the transformer to get consistent readings. There better be continuity in all windings and no leakage between windings not sharing common terminals.

More info can be had by downloading the AZ3842 pdf datasheet from www.alldatasheet.com or similar site.

I have a Hisense box, purchased from Wal Mart at the beginning of HDTV. It was a USDTV but I got the key and have the last firmware which makes the box full functional, with menus and such.

The remote HYDFSR -0113 is included.

I got rid of my last analog TV so have no use for the box. It works-not DOA-here in the NY DMA I get 25+ channels hooked up to a very good roof antenna.

PM me if interested.

My box may have died. The power lights up green but the signal light stays red. The "Please wait" screen displays, the screen flickers and the "please wait" display comes back on. This continues until you unplug the set, as the power button wont turn it off. I tried reinstalling the USB file but it didn't do anything. Is it toast?

I am a fan this box so much, I bought another one without a remote from Ebay. Flashed it and am back up just in time for NFL.