I was wondering if anybody else was getting a ghosting or blurry picture. I have a 6163 and have had both the digital module and light engine replaced. I bought the tv in december. I have it hooked up to a dish network hd box via dvi cable and a toshiba dvd/vcr via hdmi cable. Thanks in advance for any help.

Originally posted by decadenza
Collin,

Thanks for taking your time to answer my post.

The pixelation I would say is mostly in gradiation of black and white. If a character stands in front of smoke, there's a lot of noise, square pixels and blocky areas in the background that tends to be a distraction. If there is camera movement, the noise in the background competes with the action.

I would say the average person doesn't pay attention to cars when they cross the street, so it's a videophile issue.

The satellite is a directivo unit.

I had better luck with the Zenith by downloading a file that reverted the Zenith to older LG firmware that allows upconversion (1080i) through the component outputs. It does look better than the DVI for some reason....

Yeah, I meant 480p on the Panasonic. Film mode had no effect. As I only use it to record SD TV, I'm not worried about viewing DVDs...

I am experimenting with sound delays with my receiver and the SM for each source. I think I got that pretty much worked out.

You said the CCA settings are global. He put them (red: x, y, Y, etc) in while the source was "antenna". So it's okay for the CCA settings for "component 1" to be the same from the last engine?

Thanks.

Are the CCA settings on Antenna different than the CCA settings on Component 1? I'm pretty certain they are global, though I've never checked antenna vs. the others. A misadjusted set could cause banding, though I can't imagine to the extreme you are describing.

As an experiment you can try running with CCA off. Your white point will be WAY too cool (like 14000 instead of the standard 6500), but it will remove the effects of the CCA transform. After turning CCA back on, the Samsung service manual says to choose WB Set before exiting. WB Set does not appear to do anything that isn't already done by enabling CCA on my 5063 w/ 1035 firmware.

You should be able to get a good image out of this set. The black to white gradient pattern generated by my DVDO iScan HD+ is almost perfectly smooth, though I admit, I have spent a good amount of time calibrating my system with ColorFacts. The out of box calibration on my set showed some subtle banding in the gradient which was caused by the default CCA tuning. It took a good amount of tweaking to get CCA the way I like it. The issue however was very, very subtle. My wife couldn't see it even when I pointed it out. Also, an improper color wheel delay setting can cause bands of pink and green to slip into a grayscale test pattern.

Some other things to check... Noise Reduction and DNIe in the user menu can cause some adverse effects. I would leave them off. Also, for 720p feeds make sure your set is on Expand to avoid unnecessary additional scaling.

I am still suspicious of source issues. DirecTV of course has a lot of noticeable compression artifacts and that Faroujda macroblocking bug is pretty bad. Try feeding 480p to the set from the 318. If I remember right, disabling the scaling avoids the Faroujda issue. Actually 480i out of the player and using the TVs Film Mode will definitely bypass the Faroujda in the 318.

If you've got a good example maybe you can post a picture of what's going on. Oh and what firmware version do you have?

- Collin

I posted this in another forum, but figured I'd do a cross post and see if anyone had this issue too.

The cable gods must have been listening...Comcast upgraded the firmware of the Scientific Altanta 8000HD this past week to 1.87.11.6 (1/10/05).

Has anyone else had issues getting the DVI to work? I have a Samsung HLP6163 TV and got the TV doesn't use HDCP error when attempting to use the DVI port. I even tried the standard:

1. Power off all components (unplugged them)
2. Power on TV
3. Switch to DVI Source
4. Plug in 8000HD
5. Turn on 8000HD.

I had to go back to component...

Ghosting and out or focus picture
I was wondering if anybody else was getting a ghosting or blurry picture. I have a 6163 and have had both the digital module and light engine replaced. I bought the tv in december. I have it hooked up to a dish network hd box via dvi cable and a toshiba dvd/vcr via hdmi cable. Thanks in advance for any help.

:( :( Can anybody help me out on this am I the only one experiencing this? Is it my settings? cables? components? I'm going to try to return this or exchange it for a different tv. I haven't gone into the sm. I have everything set for 720p. Is there any way to adjust the focus? Obviously I'm not an expert but I have read alot in these forums and I'm stumped. PLEEEEASE HELP!!!!!

Originally posted by Brian Boe
Ghosting and out or focus picture
I was wondering if anybody else was getting a ghosting or blurry picture.

What exactly do you mean by ghosting or blurry?

I have a 6163 and have had both the digital module and light engine replaced.

Why was the light engine replaced?

Why was the digital module replaced?

I bought the tv in december.

Why did you repair instead of exchange since you have had the TV such a short time?

I have it hooked up to a dish network hd box via dvi cable

Is your STB setup to expect a 16x9 screen instead of the default 4x3 aspect ratio?

You say your STB is outputting 720p. Are you watching both SD and HD TV programs? Is what you see any different depending on whether the program is SD or HD?

and a toshiba dvd/vcr via hdmi cable.

I didn't know that Toshiba had a combo upscaling unit.

What model is it?

Is it configured for a 16x9 screen instead of the default 4x3?

Can anybody help me out on this am I the only one experiencing this?

It sounds like it, but if you give more details then others may see a similarity.

I have everything set for 720p.

Can you be more specific?

Is there any way to adjust the focus?

No. But if the new light engine was not put in correctly then the image on the screen could be out of focus or tilted.

Is this how your set looked before the repairs? Did it get this was as a result of the repairs or did it happen some time later?

It's all in the details. :)

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by Brian Boe
Ghosting and out or focus picture
I was wondering if anybody else was getting a ghosting or blurry picture.

What exactly do you mean by ghosting or blurry?
The picture looks like when i was in school and the teacher was starting a movie and had to focus it in. I don't know how else to explain it
I have a 6163 and have had both the digital module and light engine replaced.

Why was the light engine replaced? Because of the ghosting problem.

Why was the digital module replaced?To try to fix the ghosting problem again.

I bought the tv in december.

Why did you repair instead of exchange since you have had the TV such a short time?When I called the place i bought it Grand Apliance and TV(a fairly large appliance/tv dealership in Chicago/Milwaukee area) they said to call their service center that they go through first to see if they could fix the problem. If they couldn't then call them to exchange/ replace. I hope I didn't make a mistake.

I have it hooked up to a dish network hd box via dvi cable

Is your STB setup to expect a 16x9 screen instead of the default 4x3 aspect ratio? I'm not sure how to set that but it is set to expand(I read it in these forums)

You say your STB is outputting 720p. Are you watching both SD and HD TV programs? Is what you see any different depending on whether the program is SD or HD? I'm sure it is hd because it goes back and forth from 4:3 to 16:9

and a toshiba dvd/vcr via hdmi cable.

I didn't know that Toshiba had a combo upscaling unit.

What model is it? sdv592

Is it configured for a 16x9 screen instead of the default 4x3? yes

Can anybody help me out on this am I the only one experiencing this?

It sounds like it, but if you give more details then others may see a similarity.

I have everything set for 720p.

Can you be more specific? My hd dish network box and dvd are both set to output 720p

Is there any way to adjust the focus?

No. But if the new light engine was not put in correctly then the image on the screen could be out of focus or tilted.

Is this how your set looked before the repairs? Did it get this was as a result of the repairs or did it happen some time later? They first replaced the digital module. That did nothing. After the light engine it seemed to help the ghosting some but the picture is still out of focus and the ghosting is coming back.

It's all in the details.
:( Sorry about the reply format I havent figured out how to do it like others do

Originally posted by Brian Boe
Why did you repair instead of exchange since you have had the TV such a short time?

"When I called the place i bought it Grand Apliance and TV(a fairly large appliance/tv dealership in Chicago/Milwaukee area) they said to call their service center that they go through first to see if they could fix the problem. If they couldn't then call them to exchange/ replace. I hope I didn't make a mistake."

If it's not your setup I don't see why they wouldn't replace your set. If they don't Samsung will if they have to fix the same thing three(?) times.

Is your STB setup to expect a 16x9 screen instead of the default 4x3 aspect ratio?

I'm not sure how to set that but it is set to expand(I read it in these forums)

"Expand" is an aspect mode you set on the Samsung using the "P. Size" button on the TV remote.

The STB is the tuner for the Dish Network box. You should ask them how to be sure the box is set to output 16x9. The installer should have done that but maybe he didn't.

You say your STB is outputting 720p. Are you watching both SD and HD TV programs? Is what you see any different depending on whether the program is SD or HD?

I'm sure it is hd because it goes back and forth from 4:3 to 16:9

Do you mean that the program fills the screen and the commercials have black bars on each side? That would probably be a HD program but Dish may sometimes send you SD in a wide format.

Any program and it's commercials that always have black bars on each side would be a SD program.

Both SD TV and many DVD's vary a lot in how sharp they look. Any HD program or recent DVD should look sharp.

... and a toshiba dvd/vcr via hdmi cable.

I didn't know that Toshiba had a combo upscaling unit.

What model is it?

sdv592

Is it configured for a 16x9 screen instead of the default 4x3?

yes

Did you make the change to 16x9 on a setup screen or a switch on the back of the unit? A few DVD players have to be configured in two locations. I can't remember which ones though. :rolleyes:

Can anybody help me out on this am I the only one experiencing this?

It sounds like it, but if you give more details then others may see a similarity.

I have everything set for 720p.

Can you be more specific?

My hd dish network box and dvd are both set to output 720p

If you are sure ... :)

But telling us exactly how you set them to 720p might help those of us who aren't in your living-room. ;)

Is there any way to adjust the focus?

No. But if the new light engine was not put in correctly then the image on the screen could be out of focus or tilted.

Is this how your set looked before the repairs?

Did it get this was as a result of the repairs or did it happen some time later?

They first replaced the digital module. That did nothing. After the light engine it seemed to help the ghosting some but the picture is still out of focus and the ghosting is coming back.

Maybe if you took your DVD player and HDMI cable into the store, when you talk to the manager about an exchange or refund, you could find out how it looks on one of their HLPxx63 sets.

I asked you about the "4x3/16x9" setup on the STB and DVD player because they usually are defauted to 4x3 and that setting can make the picture quality look strange.

Sorry about the reply format I havent figured out how to do it like others do

Just use the "Quote" button to do a reply. Then watch out for anything in square brackets. You can edit the text but the stuff in the brackets is HTML formating commands. The commands come in pairs. A "B" in brackets starts "bold face" then a "/B" in brackets ends bold face.

It's a good idea to delete all the text that's not related to your reply.

Good luck.

Tech came today about my lamp light blinking last week on my 5063. He turned it off and wrote down some numbers and went out to his truck and came back in with a new bulb. He removed the lamp door and the bulb light came on. He then asked me if I had ever opened the lamp door. I said no, which I never had. He said I think your bulb is fine, that code is for when the door is not in place. He checked to see if the new bulb and tray was the same as the old, which it was except the bulb was smaller, wasn't quite as long but same otherwise, just an updated version he said. Then he put the old bulb back in and turned on the set and into the service menu and it came back on fine. Bulb has 4260 hours on it. He said bulbs are good for 3000 to 6000 hours. I thought he was just going to leave with the new bulb but he left it here and said I may as well keep using the old one as long as it works ok. So I have a brand new lamp assy now still in the box as back up. This was not a Samsung tech, there aren't any in my area. I am very pleased but I think I will put in the new bulb anyway and keep the old one as my backup.

Just posting an update. Called samsung service today to report ghosting and blurry picture problem again. Iasked if they could send a different repair shop this time. The last couple of times they came out neither of the two men that came out had a hdtv and didn't seem to be to knowledgable about them. When I asked them questions about the tv's native resolution and other problems that other people have reported on several internet forums they didnt know or had to check their service manual. I would think they would be up to date on bullitens posted by samsung. I asked samsung customer service if they could send out an advanced techician with lots of hdtv knowledge they said they would see what they could do. Well the gentleman just called and he was another older guy with no hdtv and no plan to get one soon. He's still waiting for his current tube to die first! I have also noticed that at the right side of the picture there is a curve that goes from about 1/4" at the top to over a 1/2" at the center back to a 1/4" at the bottum. I tried to take a digital picture and post it for all to see but the picture wouldn't show anything because of the flash. and when I turned the flash off that wouldn't work either. Thanks again for all your help, will let you know what comes about.

Originally posted by Cheezmo
One thing to be aware of on Samsung DLP's is that with 1080i you are stuck with 4% overscan, while with 720p (over DVI/HDMI) you can get 1.5% overscan. Without any other obvious scaling issues, that is pretty significant factor to me.

I finally was able to compare, side by side, HDMI vs. Component, from HR10-250 to my HLP5063. I was skeptical of all the posts here and in the tivo forum which claimed better PQ via component. Well, count me in as a "component convert". The PQ in darker scenes improved dramatically. I watched the same scenes over an over (both OTA and DirecTV) and the component connection PQ was clearly better. The banding (posterization) and green around the blacks were nearly eliminated using the component connection. The only downside is the overscan issue. I cannot set the picture size to "Expanded" mode via component.

After 2 light engines and a failed ISF calibration, I believe my problem all along was my HR10-250 HDMI out. I haven't decided what to do with the HR10-250...I'll probably just wait for the MPEG-4 version and swap it out them.

So Cheezmo -

I have the HLP4663W and use a SA 8300HD STB connected via HDMI. I have been playing around with letting it pass through and allow the HLP to convert everything to 720p ...and setting the STB to convert everything to 720p and use the Expand setting to reduce overscan.

Personally I don't see much of a difference aside in PQ but the reduced overscan is really nice.

Are there any specs or details that show that the HLP is better than the 8300HD at converting signals? How could I find that out?

Thanks!

Well getting a little frustrated. Its been 6 weeks since I phone about probm's with my HLP6163. 1 week to get a scheduled service, another week for repair shop to determining there was a probm, another to get a digital board that screw the set up more then the original probm, another week to scheduled for repair shop to take set to shop and now after another 2 weeks no progress. Its been a total of 6 weeks going on 7 without a fully functional TV. Is it time to demand a new replacement set from Samsung. I am patient but this is getting kind of ridiculous.

Originally posted by drjeckl
Folks, on a different yet related topic, I spent several hours yesterday with DVE. The Sammy manual (5063W) said that there is a "Custom" settings that one can create for specific settings, in addition to Dynamic, Cinema, and Standard. For the life of me, I couldn't get a "Custom" setting going. I picked Dynamic and changed those parameters. Any clue on how to do "Custom"?

Also, since the settings were done on the HDMI connector where my DVP-NS975V is connected, is it reasonable to copy the same settings to the DVI connector where I have the HR10-250?

Thanks...jce

Continued to experiment with DVE again. In addition to the above, I also cannot change the tint. That control is "greyed' out and set at 50G and 50R. Doing the basic calibration color bar tests, the blue doesn't line up correctly, which makes the red and green not line up. I was going to try correcting it with a tint change but couldn't change it. Anybody with a clue?

.jce

Originally posted by Riley9208
I finally was able to compare, side by side, HDMI vs. Component, from HR10-250 to my HLP5063. I was skeptical of all the posts here and in the tivo forum which claimed better PQ via component. Well, count me in as a "component convert"...

That HR10-250 is a real P.O.S. for $1K. It absolutely ridiculous that you saw PQ improvements by introducing a D->A->D conversion cycle into the process.

Of course, by ridiculous, I don't mean that you're ridiculous for seeing it, just that D* is able to get $1K a pop for the HR10-250 with such a bad HDMI implementation.

I was on the fence and getting ready to feed my HLP5063 some HD goodness from an HR10-250, but now I'm firmly sitting that out until the HMC is good to go.

Originally posted by JoeSchueller
HLP5063 some HD goodness from an HR10-250, but now I'm firmly sitting that out until the HMC is good to go.

Yeah, it's a bit disappointing and I understand your decision to wait..But I've got to tell you, the HD goodness it provided during my timeshifted NFL season and MLB playoffs was worth the price for the P.O.S.! The HD nature shows, sports and travel shows I have on my HR10-250 look consistently excellent..even over HDMI!

with the ability to get hundreds back in discounts, together with the fact that it also acts as an OTA rcvr (for those who don't have built-ins), and the ability to record HD broadcasts (esp useful due to the limited channel lineup), I would disagree that it's a POS. Your opinion is noted, but many of us are very happy with our expensive POS boxes. I personally think it is worth the price of admission to be able to record dual HD broadcasts and watch something else at the same time for ~$500 (after discounts, and after you factor in the cost of an OTA tuner).

I see post on here talking about "Expand" in the picture settings. I dont see this on my 5063W (only 4:3,wide,zoom1, zoom2), is this only for HD pictures? I do not have an HD box yet.

Originally posted by grego27
I see post on here talking about "Expand" in the picture settings. I dont see this on my 5063W (only 4:3,wide,zoom1, zoom2), is this only for HD pictures? I do not have an HD box yet. You have to be inputing a 720p signal into the Sammy to get the Expand mode option.

Yes... this pic size mode will only appear when feeding the tv a 720p input signal.

Regs,
Jeff

hehehe.. simultaneous posting of the same answer is cool. :)

In other words... what 1Mark1 said.

Later,
Jeff

Thats what I figured. Thanks for both anwers.

You may remember me from such threads as HLN series a/v sync delay.

My old HLN was rebought by Samsung for the problem. Now my new HLP has started exhibiting the same issues. However, its only noticeable on DVD's via my HD931. The DVD is hooked up over DVI and outputting to 720P, which should mean little to no delay. It is evident on every DVD I watch. The degree varies from slight to total kung fu flick.

I have DNIe off as well as DNR. Not sure what firmware.

My questions are:
1. Does anyone else have this same problem?
2. Could it be my DVD player Samsung HD-931?

Movies that I have watched recently:
Anchorman
Cinema Paridiso ( which was off, but harder to tell since its in Italian)
The Terminal
What about Bob
Groundhog Day ( I thought these last two were bad DVDs since they are old movies)


Thanks,

Tom

I'm sorry to hear about your failed ISF calibration. Trust me, if your HDMI and component inputs were both calibrated properly the HDMI would definitely look better. It sounds like something is amiss with your HDMI settings (probably in the service menus).


Originally posted by Riley9208
I finally was able to compare, side by side, HDMI vs. Component, from HR10-250 to my HLP5063. I was skeptical of all the posts here and in the tivo forum which claimed better PQ via component. Well, count me in as a "component convert". The PQ in darker scenes improved dramatically. I watched the same scenes over an over (both OTA and DirecTV) and the component connection PQ was clearly better. The banding (posterization) and green around the blacks were nearly eliminated using the component connection. The only downside is the overscan issue. I cannot set the picture size to "Expanded" mode via component.

After 2 light engines and a failed ISF calibration, I believe my problem all along was my HR10-250 HDMI out. I haven't decided what to do with the HR10-250...I'll probably just wait for the MPEG-4 version and swap it out them.

Hey Steve Martin,

I have been feeling lately that my HDMI isn't that great looking. It is a DVI to HDMI adapter outputting from a Comcast HD DVR. The backgrounds look banded. I don't remember them being that way via component.

Any thoughts on that?

Tom

I really can't say. I'm sure you've done all the things mentioned earlier, turning off DNIe, Digital NR, etc. Other than that, you need to make sure your contrast/brightness, etc. are set correctly which is tought to do without a test pattern generator.

Originally posted by tloder
You may remember me from such threads as HLN series a/v sync delay.

My old HLN was rebought by Samsung for the problem. Now my new HLP has started exhibiting the same issues. However, its only noticeable on DVD's via my HD931. The DVD is hooked up over DVI and outputting to 720P, which should mean little to no delay. It is evident on every DVD I watch. The degree varies from slight to total kung fu flick.

I have DNIe off as well as DNR. Not sure what firmware.

My questions are:
1. Does anyone else have this same problem?
2. Could it be my DVD player Samsung HD-931?

Movies that I have watched recently:
Anchorman
Cinema Paridiso ( which was off, but harder to tell since its in Italian)
The Terminal
What about Bob
Groundhog Day ( I thought these last two were bad DVDs since they are old movies)


Thanks,

Tom

I have noticed that I have the same problem. I, too, traded in my HLN to get the HLP and the AV sync shows up again. I have a Arcam DV88 hooked up to it. Noticed it while watching Diana Krall Live in Paris. Time to call Samsung, again.

Originally posted by tloder
You may remember me from such threads as HLN series a/v sync delay.

My old HLN was rebought by Samsung for the problem. Now my new HLP has started exhibiting the same issues. However, its only noticeable on DVD's via my HD931. The DVD is hooked up over DVI and outputting to 720P, which should mean little to no delay. It is evident on every DVD I watch. The degree varies from slight to total kung fu flick.

I have DNIe off as well as DNR. Not sure what firmware.

My questions are:
1. Does anyone else have this same problem?
2. Could it be my DVD player Samsung HD-931?

Movies that I have watched recently:
Anchorman
Cinema Paridiso ( which was off, but harder to tell since its in Italian)
The Terminal
What about Bob
Groundhog Day ( I thought these last two were bad DVDs since they are old movies)


Thanks,

Tom

Oh a/v sync fun.

Is the delay through the TV's built in speakers or through a separate amplifier? There is still latency on HDMI/DVI inputs so you need to delay external audio. The internal speakers should delay the audio properly.

I have heard of some DVD players generating an out of sync signal. I don't know if the Samsung is one of them. I wouldn't be surprised. Is it delayed through the built in speakers? If so the DVD player is probably to blame.

There are many parts to the Samsung DLP audio sync issue :

1. Sources vary in their sync accuracy. Most TV feeds (even HD) have terrible sync. DVDs are better, though some still have mastering issues or poor ADR.

2. Deinterlacing and upconversion require a certain amount of buffering for the algorithms to work, this adds a certain amount of delay to the video signal. 3:2 inverse telecine (film mode) is the worst culprit. This means that audio fed to an external amplifier can often be ahead of the video. This is not a Samsung specific problem, but a problem with many HDTVs, particularly the fixed pixel variants. Many modern receivers/video processors are adding adjustable delays to handle this. In short if this is your problem no amount of calls to Samsung will get the problem solved. You need an amplifier with an adjustable delay or some other delay loop in the system.

3. Early Samsung models did not properly account for the video delay when sending audio to the built in speakers. This was remedied in the HLNW1 & HLP series. This audio delay is now adjustable through a service menu setting.

- Collin

Hey Collin,

I am playing audio through a reciever.

I am a veteran of the sync issues, I understand the basic problems, and I plan on eventually getting a receiver with delay. But it torques me that I must to properly enjoy the TV.

Funny thing is that before on my HLN, the issue didn't really present itself when watching DVD's over DVI. Now it seems to be everyone I watch is f'ed. Also, I'm not sure but I think is recent. I have had the TV since September, and I think I am only really noticing it as of late.

I just figured since my DVD was supposedly outputting 720P signal, it should be fine. Also, the cable over DVI->HDMI seems to work fine. This just smells fishy.

Originally posted by tloder
Hey Collin,

I am playing audio through a reciever.

I am a veteran of the sync issues, I understand the basic problems, and I plan on eventually getting a receiver with delay. But it torques me that I must to properly enjoy the TV.

Funny thing is that before on my HLN, the issue didn't really present itself when watching DVD's over DVI. Now it seems to be everyone I watch is f'ed. Also, I'm not sure but I think is recent. I have had the TV since September, and I think I am only really noticing it as of late.

I just figured since my DVD was supposedly outputting 720P signal, it should be fine. Also, the cable over DVI->HDMI seems to work fine. This just smells fishy.

I too have noticed that the DVI/HDMI latency appears worse on the HLP than the HLN. Maybe that wobulation adds some time or something.

There are some delay boxes our there that could save you the cost of a new receiver. This is not a cheap way to go, but I use a DVDO iScan for my deinterlacing and scaling and it features an adjustable audio delay. Very handy.

- Collin

I just had my HLP 4663W ISF and color calibrated. I'm generally happy with the results but would like some info just so I can understand more about the process.

> Are the tuned settings global or do they need to be entered for each source. The ISF guy did the calibration using a DVD using a component source. Will the same settings apply to the S-Video source on which my STB is connected?

> How about the Dynamic, Standard, and Cinema user settings. Do the tuned settings apply to all three modes? I notice a significant difference between the Standard and Cinema mode (the actual set-up menu background color has a green tint in Standard mode and a blue tint in Cinema mode).

> It seems like the "My Color Control" user feature is now greyed out. What happened, could this have been disabled?

>Lastly, how do I find out what firmware version I have and how can I get the default service menu settings for my firmware version.

... lots of questions but the guys on this forum seem to know what they're talking about... Any info greatly appreciated!!

thanks!!

After 3 light engines (2 for really bad clay face on all HD material, one for random shut downs and blinking "lamp light"), one digital board, one analog board, and one screen replacement, my 5063 is finally being replaced. I have the option from Samsung to upgrade to a different model if I choose, but I am unsure if I want to deal with the uniqueness of the Kirk model, and it's too early to replace it with the new 1080p sets. Talk about bad timing. My choice is to pay a bunch of extra money for the 5674, a little extra for the 5085, or take a 5063 replacement. Samsung is replacing my set and working with Best Buy on the replacement. Does anyone have any advice?

-Nathan

I am running my sound through a component system separate preamp/processor/amp. Although the HLP is not as noticeable as the HLN, I wonder if the problem gets worse with time (it shouldn't but who knows). I am using component directly into the TV and audio separately. It may be time to look for a DLP 3 chip projector instead.

Originally posted by 1Mark1
You have to be inputing a 720p signal into the Sammy to get the Expand mode option.

I don't believe the Expand mode option is available when inputting 720p over component. Am I correct?

Originally posted by Riley9208
I don't believe the Expand mode option is available when inputting 720p over component. Am I correct?

You are correct.

Hi Cheezmo,

Can you help with my previous post (#280)....

thanks!!

Originally posted by htwaits
So far no one has ever reported that entering the SM has caused Samsung to void their warranty. On the other hand, don't ever start out with an entry level CS person by saying, "After I went into the SV the TV started ..."

BTW the Samsung tech came out to look at my tv and he did say that getting into the service menu will void your warranty.

Originally posted by grego27
BTW the Samsung tech came out to look at my tv and he did say that getting into the service menu will void your warranty.
I have never read a report in this forum indicating that Samsung voided a warranty. I've read a very large number of Samsung related messages. :D

I've even written a few myself. ;)

He may have just been trying to scare me into not messing with it...I don't know. I was just relaying what he told me.

Re: Re: DNIE demo mode, other tweaks?

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by collinp
Oh, yeah and accessing the service menu voids your warranty, but it sound like you've already done that.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by htwaits


So far no one has ever reported that entering the SM has caused Samsung to void their warranty. On the other hand, don't ever start out with an entry level CS person by saying, "After I went into the SV the TV started ..."

Here is the original post I was responding to.;)

smithre4,
I got the same error today after trying the DVI connection. I have Adelphia with a SA8000HD box, so it appears that Adelphia has not activated the DVI port yet.(I'm not sure of the firmware version on the box). I'm hoping the Adelphia acquisition goes through soon, because maybe Time Warner or Comcast (probably Time Warner here in Buffalo, because they are also in Rochester) will offer better technology and more channels. I've been waiting months for FOX-HD and Discovery-HD with no luck.

Originally posted by BCA
> Are the tuned settings global or do they need to be entered for each source. The ISF guy did the calibration using a DVD using a component source. Will the same settings apply to the S-Video source on which my STB is connected?

For each source. If only component was calibrated at 480p, then you can only expect component to look right.

> How about the Dynamic, Standard, and Cinema user settings. Do the tuned settings apply to all three modes? I notice a significant difference between the Standard and Cinema mode (the actual set-up menu background color has a green tint in Standard mode and a blue tint in Cinema mode).

Only the mode that was calibrated (usually Standard as that as what the TV goes into when in the service mode) will be right. The rest could be all over the map.

> It seems like the "My Color Control" user feature is now greyed out. What happened, could this have been disabled?

If the set has been calibrated, it shouldn't be necessary. I assume DNIe was turned off which I believe grays out the "My Color Control" "feature".

>Lastly, how do I find out what firmware version I have and how can I get the default service menu settings for my firmware version.

You need to go into the service mode do find out the firmware version. The service manual will list some default service menu settings, but what people find in there initially has varied over the course of the model year with different firmware revisions, etc.

Hi experts,

Recently I bought a new DLP 5063W TV from circuitcity. I noticed that there is a white circular patch in the middle of the sceen. It seems like a reflection but it is visible. When I turn on the TV, I don't notice that.

Is this normal. The Circuitcity salesman says this is standard on all Samsung tvs ?

Any suggestions or comments ?

Thanks,
Pals4dc

Originally posted by BWOJO
smithre4,
I got the same error today after trying the DVI connection. I have Adelphia with a SA8000HD box, so it appears that Adelphia has not activated the DVI port yet.(I'm not sure of the firmware version on the box). I'm hoping the Adelphia acquisition goes through soon, because maybe Time Warner or Comcast (probably Time Warner here in Buffalo, because they are also in Rochester) will offer better technology and more channels. I've been waiting months for FOX-HD and Discovery-HD with no luck.

If you got the HDCP error, then box has been activated for DVI. In the previous firmware version(s) it was simply off so nothing was passed to the DVI connection (i.e. blank screen). I too hope that the 8300HD series will be made available in my error. I wonder how many others are having this problem...

Thanks, Ross

Originally posted by pals4dc
Hi experts,

Recently I bought a new DLP 5063W TV from circuitcity. I noticed that there is a white circular patch in the middle of the sceen. It seems like a reflection but it is visible. When I turn on the TV, I don't notice that.

Is this normal. The Circuitcity salesman says this is standard on all Samsung tvs ?

Any suggestions or comments ?

Thanks,
Pals4dc

I've noticed something similar when the TV is off. I get a new HLP6163 tomorrow (assuming delivery happens), so we'll see if that exists in it too...

Ross

Yes, it is normal to see that white area in the center when the TV is turned off.

Originally posted by pals4dc
I noticed that there is a white circular patch in the middle of the sceen.

It's ambient light reflecting back at you.

Check your screen when there is no other light source. With the TV off the screen should be as black as everything else.

Hey Cheezmo,

Thanks for the helpful reply to my post!

BCA

Originally posted by htwaits
It's ambient light reflecting back at you.

Check your screen when there is no other light source. With the TV off the screen should be as black as everything else.

I initially assumed the same, but when I moved from one side of the TV to other side, the circular patch remained at the same place.

Is this circular white patch due to something behind the screen. Reflector..

Thanks,
Pals4dc

The screen is sort of a fresnel lens, designed to help maintain consistent brightness as you move side to side, etc. The optical characteristics of that "lens/screen" are what cause the white patch when reflecting ambient light.

Originally posted by drjeckl
Continued to experiment with DVE again. In addition to the above, I also cannot change the tint. That control is "greyed' out and set at 50G and 50R. Doing the basic calibration color bar tests, the blue doesn't line up correctly, which makes the red and green not line up. I was going to try correcting it with a tint change but couldn't change it. Anybody with a clue?

.jce

Sources which send separate color information like HDMI, DVI, and Component generally do not allow you to adjust tint. Sources that send all U and V together like Composite or S-Video give you a tint control to control the TVs splitting of chroma (UV) signal into U and V.

The filters supplied with DVE or Avia are not perfect. Even with a well tuned TV you things will not line up perfectly through the filters. Green in particular will be a bit off.

The Sony 975 however has a color space conversion bug which results in an improper RGB signal for 720p and 1080i signals. You will find the problem most noticeable as a too dark green channel. Try setting the Sony to 480p and retune with DVE. Reportedly this avoids the problem, though you will be falling back on the TV's scaler.

- Collin

Originally posted by collinp
Sources which send separate color information like HDMI, DVI, and Component generally do not allow you to adjust tint. Sources that send all U and V together like Composite or S-Video give you a tint control to control the TVs splitting of chroma (UV) signal into U and V.

The filters supplied with DVE or Avia are not perfect. Even with a well tuned TV you things will not line up perfectly through the filters. Green in particular will be a bit off.

The Sony 975 however has a color space conversion bug which results in an improper RGB signal for 720p and 1080i signals. You will find the problem most noticeable as a too dark green channel. Try setting the Sony to 480p and retune with DVE. Reportedly this avoids the problem, though you will be falling back on the TV's scaler.

- Collin

Gotcha on the tint control.

Yes on the filters, in DVE, after setting the blue bars, the green bars are the most off. Any remedy suggested?

Yes on the improper RGB signal. It is too green. Is this the SD/HD matrix issue previously posted? Are you saying keep the Sony at 480p after re-tuning? It probably wouldn't be so bad with the 5063W doing the scaling to 720p. But then why did I buy this player???

Also, the Sammy manual (5063W) said that there is a "Custom" settings that one can create for specific settings, in addition to Dynamic, Cinema, and Standard. For the life of me, I couldn't get a "Custom" setting going. I picked Dynamic and changed those parameters. Any clue on how to do "Custom"?

Thanks...jce

Just wondering if anyone else was watching the apprentice last ngiht and they were in the PS2 headquarters in NYC and in the conference room they had sammy DLP's, it looked like a HLP to. I wonder if that says something about out sammy's compared o the sony's lcd.

Originally posted by Old^Style
Just wondering if anyone else was watching the apprentice last ngiht and they were in the PS2 headquarters in NYC and in the conference room they had sammy DLP's, it looked like a HLP to. I wonder if that says something about out sammy's compared o the sony's lcd.

I noticed that as well. It looked like they had the computer hooked up to it to. Pretty sure it was an HLN though. Had the bigger power-on eyeball in the middle of the speaker grille.

I noticed it too. I think it was an HLP. It was definitely hooked up to a computer because I saw a windows desktop with icons on the screen...and smudges (just kidding).

Got my HLP6163 replacement today. Feb 2005 with the 1035 firmware. Haven't noticed any issues yet, nor have I done any calibration. I'll let you know if I can see BTB on this set.

Ross

Originally posted by Old^Style
Just wondering if anyone else was watching the apprentice last ngiht and they were in the PS2 headquarters in NYC and in the conference room they had sammy DLP's, it looked like a HLP to. I wonder if that says something about out sammy's compared o the sony's lcd.

Saw the same... some Sony marketing honcho must have been SCREAMING when he saw that one. Even my wife said, "Hey, that looks like our TV, isn't Playstation Sony?" If it goes that far, someone in Sony had to have seen it.

Originally posted by smithre4
Got my HLP6163 replacement today. Feb 2005 with the 1035 firmware. Haven't noticed any issues yet, nor have I done any calibration. I'll let you know if I can see BTB on this set.

Ross

So I guess that means that 1035 is the latest firmware available?

It appears that way. I'll try and sit down and map out all of the settings in the SM and so people can see what's changed. I noted already that my SEQ_SELECT is 8, where as Steve found it set to 5 in one of his 1035 sets. So Samsung may just be tweaking values now instead of major revisions (maybe BIOS number reflects a change in the digital board or something).

It's definitely nice having a discrete code for HDMI.

Ross

Attached is the SM settings for Component and HDMI for the Feb05 1035 series HLP6163.

Regarding my prior BTB issue. I've learned more in my testing. When using the Pioneer Elite DV-59AVi over HDMI, I do not see the BTB bars. If I use Component, I see the BTB.

Ross

I have a HLP5063 purch 12/04 and just had light engine and computer replaced (60 days in) due to set turning off by itself and color wheel/computer errors whereby only red and blue light projected. Samsung repairman came out next day and replace parts but now have two problems that have been touched on in this thread but I havent seen complete answers:

1.) Now I have a high pitch whining sound that is the color wheel I believe. Starts after a click about 6 seconds after startup, ends about 8 seconds after shut down/corresponds to lamp lighting and turn off. Whine is low level but penetrating to anyone who can hear it. it wasnt this noticable on my original light engine kit. Fan is also a bit louder as well, but passable.

2.) Now on my second set of parts I am noticing a less than sharp picture focus/could be settings but I used DVE to set my component setting. HD quality on InHD was superb originally, now somewhat less than that in both DVI or Component. my standard settings are same as this thread advises and matches DVE. Possible install of new light engine package slightly out of place?

3.) Lastly, my component feed looks significantly better than my DVI input. Why? Specifically, component looks like it has much more depth, images are as dimensional as you can get. However on DVI the picture looks "flat" like a photograph. Color, contrast and brightness are nearly identical from DVI to Component so what can be wrong? I know DVI should be better but its just a blah image in comparison to Component. Using a monster DVI cable.

STB: Comcast Motorola HD/DVR combo.

Thanks -
Kevin

Originally posted by drjeckl

Yes on the filters, in DVE, after setting the blue bars, the green bars are the most off. Any remedy suggested?


Setting the Sony to 480p to fix its color space conversion bug might bring green back in line a bit. You probably won't notice slight color shifts unless your a very critical watcher. An ISF tech could tune the set in the service menu and it would look quite good. I strongly suggest that owners of these sets get them professionally calibrated. These sets are pretty off out of the box.

Originally posted by drjeckl

Yes on the improper RGB signal. It is too green. Is this the SD/HD matrix issue previously posted? Are you saying keep the Sony at 480p after re-tuning? It probably wouldn't be so bad with the 5063W doing the scaling to 720p. But then why did I buy this player???


I am referring to the SD/HD matrix bug. Widescreen Review says that because of this bug the Sony 975 causes darker greens and yellows at 720p and 1080i. They claim that the problem goes away at 480i and 480p. This fits my memory of the problem on the unit I had temporarily.

Why did you buy this player? Well only you can say for certain. How about because you're looking at $1000 and up to get one that does upconversion properly or because you still get the benefit of an all digital connection.

Originally posted by drjeckl

Also, the Sammy manual (5063W) said that there is a "Custom" settings that one can create for specific settings, in addition to Dynamic, Cinema, and Standard. For the life of me, I couldn't get a "Custom" setting going. I picked Dynamic and changed those parameters. Any clue on how to do "Custom"?


On my HLN the factory picture settings cannot be changed. There is a separate custom picture setting that can be changed. On my HLP the factory picture settings can be modified and there is no longer a separate custom picture menu. Due to publishing lead times, I suspect that the text in the HLP manual was written before the firmware was finalized and hence reflects the old functionality not the current functionality.

- Collin

Collinp,

Yeah, I'm thinking of doing the ISF thing. My setup is the 5063W, fed by an HR10-250 on the DVI input and the Sony DVP-NS975V on the HDMI input. Do you think it's worth it (probably at another $150) to get both inputs tuned separately or just do one and apply the settings to the other? This process could run me about $400 (in NY). That price is about 10% of what I spent for the 3 components, which is probably reasonable. Yes/No?

Yes, you are correct on why I bought this unit (price and digital output), but I was hoping to have the player do the upscale and feed the TV at it's native 720p. Maybe I should let the TV do the upscale. I'll try it.

Good guess on the "Custom" setting. Has anyone contacted Samsung on this?

Thanks Collin...jce

Originally posted by drjeckl

Yeah, I'm thinking of doing the ISF thing. My setup is the 5063W, fed by an HR10-250 on the DVI input and the Sony DVP-NS975V on the HDMI input. Do you think it's worth it (probably at another $150) to get both inputs tuned separately or just do one and apply the settings to the other? This process could run me about $400 (in NY). That price is about 10% of what I spent for the 3 components, which is probably reasonable. Yes/No?


I personally think a tune up by someone who knows the HLP series is worth it. Most folks don't feel like spending more money after an expensive purchase like a RPTV, but as a friend of mine says "You don't get a new Bosendorfer and not call the piano tuner."

The settings for DVI and HDMI are the same in the service menu. It should be a single input tune up. The HLPs have an additional processing mode which most sets don't have called CCA. On most sets you are stuck with the Red, Green, and Blue primaries and secondaries resulting from the blub and filters chosen by the set manufacturer. CCA however allows an ISF tuner to tune your set to any set of primaries and secondaries which fit within the native color space. This is pretty bleeding edge stuff for a consumer set. Make sure you get someone that knows how to tune it. Steve Martin (Cheezmo) is an ISF calibrator and posts a lot on this thread. Maybe he can recommend someone in your area.

Originally posted by drjeckl

Yes, you are correct on why I bought this unit (price and digital output), but I was hoping to have the player do the upscale and feed the TV at it's native 720p. Maybe I should let the TV do the upscale. I'll try it.


Yeah it's less than ideal to have an upscaling player and not use the upscaling. However, the chief benefit in my opinion is the all digital connection. The scaler in the Samsung is decent enough, you might not even notice much difference. The color shift would be a more noticeable image artifact in my opinion.

- Collin

Collin,

Looks like we got this forum to ourself. LOL. Thanks for the info and advice. I'm gonna start getting quotes and qualifications from ISF folks in my area. Yo, Cheezmo: got any preferences? I know, it's a brotherhood and everyone in it is equal..... Any one that distinguishes themselves?

Thanks...jce

Originally posted by smithre4
Regarding my prior BTB issue. I've learned more in my testing. When using the Pioneer Elite DV-59AVi over HDMI, I do not see the BTB bars. If I use Component, I see the BTB.


My HLP 5063W over DVI/HDMI in will show BTB so this is likely a player problem. Perhaps the player is set to PC RGB output? To see BTB it should be set to Video RGB. I don't know how to set this on a 59AVi.

- Collin

Originally posted by drjeckl
Collin,

Looks like we got this forum to ourself.
No you don't. We are watching you. ;)

Send Cheezmo a PM. As a HLP5063 owner he should be able to recommend someone in your area.

Originally posted by collinp
My HLP 5063W over DVI/HDMI in will show BTB so this is likely a player problem. Perhaps the player is set to PC RGB output? To see BTB it should be set to Video RGB. I don't know how to set this on a 59AVi.

- Collin

Thanks for the tip, Collin. You led me down a successful road. I found out that the player using the HDMI output automatically tunes certain picture quality settings, one of them being the 'black level'. ADjusting that let me see the BTB. Guess I should have read the manual! :)

Ross

Originally posted by htwaits
No you don't. We are watching you. ;)

Send Cheezmo a PM. As a HLP5063 owner he should be able to recommend someone in your area.

You know, I was waiting for you to chime in. LOL! Good idea on the PM. Thanks...jce

Originally posted by drjeckl
You know, I was waiting for you to chime in. LOL! Good idea on the PM. Thanks...jce
Good luck.

Ok guys I have a hlp4663w ordered. I can cancel it if I choose to do so by Wednesday. Is there ANYONE who owns an hlpxx6w model who hasn't had to have something fixed on it? I think I am just going to end up not buying an HDTV. :)

Originally posted by Zedian
Ok guys I have a hlp4663w ordered. I can cancel it if I choose to do so by Wednesday. Is there ANYONE who owns an hlpxx6w model who hasn't had to have something fixed on it? I think I am just going to end up not buying an HDTV. :)

Well if you can wait several months (august+) I would. the new series (HLR) blow the HLPs and all other DLPs out of the water with 1080p native resolution and 10000:1 contrast ratio.

For all the latest gossip - http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=493443

Ross

PS - Even though I have a had quite a few issues with my HLP (it had to be replaced), I still love the Samsung series and their service is phenomenal, even if something does go wrong.

Well if you can wait several months (august+) I would. the new series (HLR) blow the HLPs and all other DLPs out of the water with 1080p native resolution and 10000:1 contrast ratio.

Well this is to double as my PC monitor for games on it as well and I won't be able to push that high of a native resolution. Also the ones that are 10000:1 contrast ratio are too big for my apartment, and too expensive.:)

But I think I will wait regardless since I haven't talked to anyone who has had zero problems with an hlp.

Originally posted by Zedian
But I think I will wait regardless since I haven't talked to anyone who has had zero problems with an hlp.

I bet the people who have had zero problems with their Samsungs are nowhere even near this thread or even knows of it's existence.:D ;)

You might even find them at Costco or Sam's Club!;)

I understand what you are saying, people who complain talk more.:) However, I know of several people who have never had a single problem with their HLN's. And also people who didn't have problems with the 67w's and up.

But for some reason everyone I have talked to has had a problem with their hlpxx63w model.

Originally posted by PlaneNuts
I'm not sure if this is poor etiquette to ask again so soon, but anybody have some tips for this new HLP owner? Cheezemo or Collin or other HLP Superbeing?

I have a HLP5063 purch 12/04 and just had light engine and computer replaced (60 days in) due to set turning off by itself and color wheel/computer errors whereby only red and blue light projected. Samsung repairman came out next day and replace parts but now have two problems that have been touched on in this thread but I havent seen complete answers:

1.) Now I have a high pitch whining sound that is the color wheel I believe. Starts after a click about 6 seconds after startup, ends about 8 seconds after shut down/corresponds to lamp lighting and turn off. Whine is low level but penetrating to anyone who can hear it. it wasnt this noticable on my original light engine kit. Fan is also a bit louder as well, but passable.

2.) Now on my second set of parts I am noticing a less than sharp picture focus/could be settings but I used DVE to set my component setting. HD quality on InHD was superb originally, now somewhat less than that in both DVI or Component. my standard settings are same as this thread advises and matches DVE. Possible install of new light engine package slightly out of place?

3.) Lastly, my component feed looks significantly better than my DVI input. Why? Specifically, component looks like it has much more depth, images are as dimensional as you can get. However on DVI the picture looks "flat" like a photograph. Color, contrast and brightness are nearly identical from DVI to Component so what can be wrong? I know DVI should be better but its just a blah image in comparison to Component. Using a monster DVI cable.

STB: Comcast Motorola HD/DVR combo.

Thanks -
Kevin :confused:

Originally posted by PlaneNuts

1.) Now I have a high pitch whining sound that is the color wheel I believe. Starts after a click about 6 seconds after startup, ends about 8 seconds after shut down/corresponds to lamp lighting and turn off. Whine is low level but penetrating to anyone who can hear it. it wasnt this noticable on my original light engine kit. Fan is also a bit louder as well, but passable.


I had a color wheel bearing issue on my HLN. It was intermittent and sounded like a little buzz saw. Reportedly, there was a manufacturing issue that affected a certain number of HLNs. This was supposedly resolved. Based on your description of the timing I would say it may actually be a bearing in the light cooling fan. Nonetheless, this warrants a call to Samsung.

Originally posted by PlaneNuts

2.) Now on my second set of parts I am noticing a less than sharp picture focus/could be settings but I used DVE to set my component setting. HD quality on InHD was superb originally, now somewhat less than that in both DVI or Component. my standard settings are same as this thread advises and matches DVE. Possible install of new light engine package slightly out of place?


Yes, it is possible to install a light engine slightly out of place. These Samsung contractors are not well trained on these sets in my opinion. They could have misaligned the engine. It could also be a calibration thing. The contractors that replaced my HLN light engine did not bother to recalibrate the set. It was way off. Much worse than OOB. Luckily I have a ColorFacts system.

Originally posted by PlaneNuts

3.) Lastly, my component feed looks significantly better than my DVI input. Why? Specifically, component looks like it has much more depth, images are as dimensional as you can get. However on DVI the picture looks "flat" like a photograph. Color, contrast and brightness are nearly identical from DVI to Component so what can be wrong? I know DVI should be better but its just a blah image in comparison to Component. Using a monster DVI cable.


This is probably a set calibration issue. Your component input is probably better calibrated than DVI. It is also possible, though less likely, that the Comcast box has a lousy digital output. I haven't played with that box. Once you get the noise issue resolved and you give the set some burn in time, I'd get it professionally calibrated.

- Collin

Originally posted by Zedian
But for some reason everyone I have talked to has had a problem with their hlpxx63w model.

I guarantee you there are people who will say that the HLNs are problematic and the HLPs are reliable. The truth is, I don't believe there is a significant difference in build quality between the various models of Samsung DLPs. I also do not expect the HLRs to be significantly better in terms of quality. For major issues, I had a color wheel noise issue on an HLN and no problems with an HLP.

You will find minor issues with almost any consumer electronics product and the Samsung DLPs are no exception. Folks report a lot of minor issues here from smudges that wipe away to poor OOB calibration. These things aren't deal breakers for me. I know throwing down $3-4K for a set seems quite expensive, but these sets are actually quite inexpensive for what you get. They could build these things like tanks, but they would cost $10K.

The other thing to remember is that most people who post here are trying to get issues resolved. Most folks who are happy don't bother to track down this forum.

- Collin

Originally posted by Zedian
Ok guys I have a hlp4663w ordered. I can cancel it if I choose to do so by Wednesday. Is there ANYONE who owns an hlpxx6w model who hasn't had to have something fixed on it? I think I am just going to end up not buying an HDTV. :)

I got my HLP4663 two weeks ago and have yet to have any problems. So far, I love the set, and at $1958 delivered I think it is a good value.

Has anyone ever gotten a big green screen. This has happened to last night. I'm using HDMI for my HDTivo . Do you think it s the Tivo or the set.

Thanks in advance

Collinp,
Thanks for your reply on Post 328. Much appreciated. I agree with getting HLP calibrated by ISF, however, it does no good right now if the set's going back or needs parts again. I think I'll let it settle in, see problems become unbearable and then make the calls.

Additioinally, I just got my first case of smudges, so I guess thats another of the 5063's fine features. I know how to deal with them via that thread tho. Thanks for your service.
Kevin

I was wondering if there is a way that in the service menue i can change the gamma filter for only the compononet 2 input. That is the input i have my ps2 hooked up to, and it tends to be pretty dark and hard to see at times, even after adjusting the birghtness. So i would like to change the gamma filter on that one only. because all the rest of the inputs are great where it is set now (0).

Originally posted by smu1997
Has anyone ever gotten a big green screen. This has happened to last night. I'm using HDMI for my HDTivo . Do you think it s the Tivo or the set.

Thanks in advance

Happens to me occasionally as well. I have my dvd player hooked up via HDMI and some times the tv switches the input to HDMI before the dvd player pops up its splash screen. When this happens, I see the green screen for a second as well. Always disappears immediately and only on the HDMI input.

Originally posted by Old^Style
I was wondering if there is a way that in the service menue i can change the gamma filter for only the compononet 2 input. That is the input i have my ps2 hooked up to, and it tends to be pretty dark and hard to see at times, even after adjusting the birghtness. So i would like to change the gamma filter on that one only. because all the rest of the inputs are great where it is set now (0).

There's no way to do this. The gamma setting affects all inputs.

- Collin

The only problem I've have with my set (6163), started after reading these forums. Before coming here I loved my tv now all I do is tweak tweak tweak.
So my point is sometimes these forums hurt instead of help.
Enjoy the latest technology and don't try to chase the future of television it might be worse than the present.

I've had my Sammy DLP for about 5 weeks now. I've had flawless operation to this point. This morning, my wife turns on the TV and there's criss-crossed lines of color throughout the screen. The problem is not source dependant, as it occured on HDMI (DirecTV), DVI (DVD), and the SD tuner.

Here's a screen shot. http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php?photo=13014&size=big&sort=1&cat=500

I powered off the TV, unplugged it for a few seconds, then turned it back on. So far the problem hasn't returned. Does this indicate that I might have a flaky light engine?

Any help would be appreciated.

Originally posted by Zedian
Ok guys I have a hlp4663w ordered. I can cancel it if I choose to do so by Wednesday. Is there ANYONE who owns an hlpxx6w model who hasn't had to have something fixed on it? I think I am just going to end up not buying an HDTV. :)

Just to answer your question. Yes there are people out there, me included, who hasn't had something fixed on my HLP4663 (wood, wood, wood). I do have some similar problems like smudges, game lag, sound lag occasionally but they're not that big a deal (game lag is annoying at times) Those new HLR models look pretty sweet, I wish I could trade in, but if cost is at all an issue the HLP's look like there going for as little as 2k which is a full 1k cheaper than when I got it 8 months ago. I'm sure the new model will have its own distinct set of problems (they all do). So if you can wait and money isn't that big a deal then I would wait, it will be a better TV. But hey, I waited and waited and probably would have waited longer and would have never gotten the thing. Buyers remorse will happen either way... Good luck!!

Originally posted by smu1997
Has anyone ever gotten a big green screen. This has happened to last night. I'm using HDMI for my HDTivo . Do you think it s the Tivo or the set.

Thanks in advance

I used to get the green screeen every now and then on HDMI with my HDTivo connected. When it happened, it was always when I was messing with the inputs or cables.

Now, I have my Toshiba upscaling DVD connected to HDMI and I still occaisionally get the same green screen when the inputs are switching.

For me, it only goes away after shutting off the set for a complete power cycle, bulb and fan. Neither shutting off the DVD player nor pulling the cable has any effect...the green screen always comes back.

I believe this is "handshake" issue between the connected components. I have noticed the same problem. Now I have my HDTV reciever to DVI and DVD player to component 2 with no green screen problem (as of yet).

Originally posted by zlindsay328

There is a pattern on DVE specifically designed for setting contrast on fixed pixel displays. I don't have it handy, but it should have two crossing white "ramps" at the top.... Title 12 Chapter 14.



Thanks for this. I just got DVE and have not been able to find this pattern (it's a bit crazy that they don't have it in the regular video calibration section). BTW - When I used the HDNet pattern to adjust my brightness, I ended up with a setting of 57, but when I used DVE (in the same HDMI input), I ended up with a setting of 46. Any thoughts?

The menu navigation on DVE is a real piece of work, isn't it.

This may help. Just use your DVD player to jump to a specific title/chapter...

http://www.videoessentials.com/NTSC_index.php

Steve - Any thoughts of why the HDNet pattern resulted in a brightness setting of 57, while DVE (in the same HDMI input), resulted in a setting of 46? Also, should contrast be turned all the way down before setting brightness and if it is not, would it throw everything off? Thanks.

Greetings! Glad I found this forum.

I bought a HLP5063 a couple of months ago (Nov.04 manufacture) but it started to turn itself off along with the cooling fan. A couple or more trys would get it on to stay. The store replaced it with one manufactured in June'04. We don't have HD yet, just SD digital cable. Low light scenes look a lot worse than we remember from the first set, especially HBO's Deadwood and Carnivalle and network shows like Westwing, CSI, and ER. (shows offered in HD, if we had it) We've only watched one DVD on the replacement and it looked OK.

I think the picture defect might be called color banding or countouring or some sort of dithering error. Faces in shadows look strange, to put it mildly. It could be just seeing a SD picture on a large digital screen, but we never sat around with the first set adjusting settings and trying to remember if the quality used to be better.

So, from briefly skimming these posts, I get the idea that there have been periodic software upgrades to these sets. Should I ask for our original set back (they still have it on the floor and couldn't observe the power off problem)? Their service dept. doesn't have access to the service menue, BTW.

Thanks.

I've had my 5063 since last July and I have not had any of the problems that you mentioned. So, yes... I'd be trading that one in on a new one if possible. I certainly would not rely on software upgrades and hoping for the best...

Good luck!

Originally posted by RMSko
Steve - Any thoughts of why the HDNet pattern resulted in a brightness setting of 57, while DVE (in the same HDMI input), resulted in a setting of 46? Also, should contrast be turned all the way down before setting brightness and if it is not, would it throw everything off? Thanks.

Because over HDMI, the HD Tivo uses PC black/white levels (black is 0, white is 255) whereas most DVD players use video black/white levels (black is 15, white is 235).

I calibrated my DVI input (5063) with test pattern generator using Video levels such that user brightness/contrast were the defaults (50/90) and then had to adjust the user levels for my HD Tivo to 67/70.

Changing contrast will drastically affect how you adjust brightness. You need to do both together, viewing the appropriate test patterns. I don't know if the numbers hold but a good guess using my values would be to increase brightness by 17 and reduce contrast by 20 on the Tivo input as compared to the values you use for a DVD player on the DVI input, assuming the DVD player uses video levels.

I am having problems with a DVI connection between my DirecTV receiver and my 5063. The receiver is a Samsung SIR-TS360 and the 5063 is Firmware 1033. I have the receiver to output using DVI and I have the TV's source set to DVI. I get nothing on my TV, but a black screen. I have tried the receiver at resolutions 1080i, 720p, and 480p/480i (I know these will not work). Sometimes it'll tell me no signal is found, sometimes it is just black. I'm on my 2nd receiver so I'm fairly certain it isn't the receiver. Anyone have any thoughts or seen anything like this? I saw there were some problems with Motorola cable boxes, but I'm fairly certain the DVI port is active on the DirecTV receiver....
Thanks for your help.

So does anyone know if the power on issue when using the discrete power codes has been resolved in the 1035 firmware? I didn't want to reprogram my remote if they still don't work...

Ross

I have a HLP5063, I noticed the bottom portion of the image expand towards outside of the screen, especialy visible in the PC mode(something like ////|\\\\ ). what part of the SM should I tweak with?¡@thanks in advance.

Originally posted by smithre4
So does anyone know if the power on issue when using the discrete power codes has been resolved in the 1035 firmware? I didn't want to reprogram my remote if they still don't work...

Ross

I have a 1035 set and the all the discrete codes work, except that discrete power on is unreliable.

- Collin

Originally posted by walker15
I have a HLP5063, I noticed the bottom portion of the image expand towards outside of the screen, especialy visible in the PC mode(something like ////|\\\\ ). what part of the SM should I tweak with?¡@thanks in advance.

There are no geometry adjustments in the service menus. If anything can be done, it would have to be done by physically realigning the light engine.

Thanks for the reply, one more thing now, does this TV support pal format?

Originally posted by walker15
Thanks for the reply, one more thing now, does this TV support pal format?

Well I'm sure the European models do. The North American models however are all NTSC. You're not going to find many decent sets that support both PAL and NTSC. You might want to look at an external scaler. I use a DVDO iScan HD+ and quite like it. DVD playback is phenomenal. I don't use the PAL transcoding much, but it works well on the few PAL sources I've tried.

- Collin

Okay, I just got my 4663 last week. I'm having green screen problems when I switch inputs and when I pull up the guide or recorded list on my DVR as well. I'm using the HDMI input for the cable. Has anyone had this problem when just pulling up a cable guide??? It seems like it happens when I'm on an HD channel only. Any input would be helpful.

When playing with my friends HDMI DVD player last night, we got constant green screen over HDMI, like more green screen than actual image, and random power cycles of TV/DVD player/inputs would sometimes/maybe fix issue. I do not plan on ever using an HDMI device on my TV because of this.

Originally posted by juliox
When playing with my friends HDMI DVD player last night, we got constant green screen over HDMI, like more green screen than actual image, and random power cycles of TV/DVD player/inputs would sometimes/maybe fix issue. I do not plan on ever using an HDMI device on my TV because of this.

I use an HDMI DVD player (Pioneer Elite DV-59AVi) and have never experienced this issue in either of my HLP sets. It could be an issue with the TV or the DVD player.

Ross

Originally posted by collinp
I have a 1035 set and the all the discrete codes work, except that discrete power on is unreliable.

- Collin

Thanks for saving me from wasting my time reconfiguring my remote! Too bad Samsung didn't resolve this.

Ross

Originally posted by smithre4
I posted this in another forum, but figured I'd do a cross post and see if anyone had this issue too.

The cable gods must have been listening...Comcast upgraded the firmware of the Scientific Altanta 8000HD this past week to 1.87.11.6 (1/10/05).

Has anyone else had issues getting the DVI to work? I have a Samsung HLP6163 TV and got the TV doesn't use HDCP error when attempting to use the DVI port. I even tried the standard:

1. Power off all components (unplugged them)
2. Power on TV
3. Switch to DVI Source
4. Plug in 8000HD
5. Turn on 8000HD.

I had to go back to component...

smithre4,
Finally got an answer from Adelphia in Western New York on this issue. They claim the DVI port is NOT active at this time as they are awaiting software from Scientific Atlanta to activate it.

My HLN507W1 has had a number of problems and Samsung has now decided to replace it. They are offering me an HLP5063W. I'd like to know from some owners of this set what there impressions are. I loved my HLN when it worked.

Originally posted by rolltide1017
My HLN507W1 has had a number of problems and Samsung has now decided to replace it. They are offering me an HLP5063W. I'd like to know from some owners of this set what there impressions are. I loved my HLN when it worked.

I've had this set since Sept and the only problem I have had is the smudges, which Samsung is now repairing but I don't know if I'm going to bother. The main problems,I believe have been fixed. These include:
- the 3 blinking lites
- the smudges
- the noisy color wheel

I love this set and would highly recommend it, especially now that the kinks are gone. Too bad you cant get an HLR out of them.

Good luck...jce

I'm having trouble getting both my components into POP (digital cable and playstation at the same time)...any help would be appreciated

rolltide,

Do yourself a favor and pony up the extra cash difference between the 5063 and the 5085 like I did when they wanted to replace my HLN617W1 with 6163. I paid the $302 difference and got the 5685. Absolutely stunning picture compared to my HLN. It's not even close in comparison. To my eyes, the HD3 sets lack definition when compared to any and all HD2+ sets. If you can't deal with the pedestal version, go with the close runner up, the 5074 which has the HD2+, but only a 6 segment color wheel.

Good luck with your choice. Above all, try to see these suckers side by side and base your decision on what looks good to YOU.

Regs,
Jeff

Originally posted by rolltide1017
My HLN507W1 has had a number of problems and Samsung has now decided to replace it. They are offering me an HLP5063W. I'd like to know from some owners of this set what there impressions are. I loved my HLN when it worked.
I have a HLP5063 and like it a lot. Some people prefer the HLPxx74 models with the HD2+ chip because they feel they are sharper.

I am happy with my HD and SD picture quality but what I like most is watching DVD's via DVI or HDMI. If you have a good upscaling DVD player or HTPC I think you will be happy with the HLP5063.

The alternative would be to lobby Samsung for an upgrade to the HLP5674 which would cost you some money.

Just as an FYI... the SD picture quality on the 5685 is so far beyond what I had on the HLN, it's not even funny. Even my super compressed D* programming looks damn good on this set.

Regs,
Jeff

Originally posted by rolltide1017
My HLN507W1 has had a number of problems and Samsung has now decided to replace it. They are offering me an HLP5063W. I'd like to know from some owners of this set what there impressions are. I loved my HLN when it worked.
I have the 5063 and have had since Nov 2004. No problems whatsoever with it - except the smudges. I really enjoy the set. Samsung readily agreed to fix, but quite frankly for me... they are no big deal and only noticeable for a bit on warm-up and then only on very white backgrounds as others have stated. Good luck!

New HL-P5063W owner here with a basic question. I also own a Denon 2910 DVD player, whose picture quality can be independently adjusted. My question is...using DVE (which I already own) do I adjust the TV's PQ first or the DVD player's? In order to adjust the TV's PQ with DVE, I obviously have to use the DVD player to input the pix.

Pertinent info:
Build date October 2004
Firmware 1035
I've already set gamma to 0 according to the excellent advice in this thread.
2910 is connected to 5063 via HDMI and is outputting YCbCr.

This thread rocks, it's part of what led me to buy the set from TV Authority. By the way, no rainbows in dark scenes. You guys had me worried. I do have a few smudges in bright scenes but after this thread know what to do about it.

Originally posted by neuronbob
New HL-P5063W owner here with a basic question. I also own a Denon 2910 DVD player, whose picture quality can be independently adjusted. My question is...using DVE (which I already own) do I adjust the TV's PQ first or the DVD player's? In order to adjust the TV's PQ with DVE, I obviously have to use the DVD player to input the pix.

Pertinent info:
Build date October 2004
Firmware 1035
I've already set gamma to 0 according to the excellent advice in this thread.
2910 is connected to 5063 via HDMI and is outputting YCbCr.

This thread rocks, it's part of what led me to buy the set from TV Authority. By the way, no rainbows in dark scenes. You guys had me worried. I do have a few smudges in bright scenes but after this thread know what to do about it.

I think it really depends on which unit (the Denon or the Samsung) has finer picture controls. On my Panny S97 (connected via HDMI to my 5063) I find that the S97 has much finer controls so I basically put the HLP in Cinema mode at the default settings and tweaked on DVE using the Panasonic. Really don't know anything about the 2910 (other than it's supposed to be a great player) so I couldn't say for sure.

Enjoy. It's a great set.

Finally took the plunge and bought a 4663. Picked up a demo at Circuit City. Plugged in STD Cable and everything looked OK. Hooked up antenna and OK. Then tried to run antenna through an SIRT 451 and got blue screen. Switched "source", switched "mode" still nothing. Pressed every button on remote and still just a blue screen. Even hooked up the STD cable to STB still nothing. Hooked DVD with component cables, same results. Hooked up DVD with AV jacks and got picture.

I noticed in the menu that only component 1 and AV1 were "highlighted or bold" in the menu, DVI, HDMI etc. were not available to the remote when scrolling through the menu.

My question: Is there something wrong with this TV or does Circuit City program their demo/floor model in this way so no one fiddles with it the store. If this is so how can I unprogram the TV

Thanks in advance

Only the inputs that you actually have something plugged in to should be selectable.

Thanks for the reply. When I plugged my DVD player to the TV using component inputs I got "no signal". I hooked up my antenna to the 451 and got no signal. I was told that the SIRT 451 would work with STD cable and maybe pick up a HD station or two. I hooked that up and got nothing.

I unhooked everything and still got Component 1 and TV highlighted. Maybe I'm doing something wrong or not pressing the right button. It seems it shouldn't be this hard. I'm no AV expert, but I'm not lame. This is frustrating.

Originally posted by neuronbob
New HL-P5063W owner here with a basic question. I also own a Denon 2910 DVD player, whose picture quality can be independently adjusted. My question is...using DVE (which I already own) do I adjust the TV's PQ first or the DVD player's? In order to adjust the TV's PQ with DVE, I obviously have to use the DVD player to input the pix.

Pertinent info:
Build date October 2004
Firmware 1035
I've already set gamma to 0 according to the excellent advice in this thread.
2910 is connected to 5063 via HDMI and is outputting YCbCr.

This thread rocks, it's part of what led me to buy the set from TV Authority. By the way, no rainbows in dark scenes. You guys had me worried. I do have a few smudges in bright scenes but after this thread know what to do about it.

This is a bit tricky. A professional calibrator would probably tune your set to a test pattern generator and then tune the Denon. The result would be a TV that is tuned to a reference source and a player whose output is tuned to a reference source. This is difficult to do of course without a test pattern generator or some other know reference source.

Generally it won't matter much if the Denon is a little bit off from reference because you can compensate for it in the TV tuning. Problems will only become apparent if the Denon was severely mistuned. An extreme example would be, if you turned the white level way down on the Denon and cranked the white level way up on the TV to compensate, I would expect you to see banding and other image problems. This is because all of the information that would normally be spread out over 219 step of gray (in 8 Bit RGB Digital Video) would be compressed down to say 100 steps by the player and then expanded by the set back up to 219 (or so) steps by the TV.

Anyway, what I would probably do is leave the Denon at defaults assuming its relatively accurate out of the box and tune the TV. If you run into some issues then try tweaking the Denon and retuning the set.

- Collin

deckscrew, I have a SIR T-160. On the back of mine, I have to manually set two things: I have to set a display control to either DVI/RGB or YCrCb, then I have to set the outgoing resolution to 1080i, 720p, or 480p separately. Is the 451 similar (look on the back)? If so, you have to set these manually to get a picture.

Thanks for the replies to my question. I calibrated the TV and left the 2910 at defaults. I'm running in Cinema mode with Warm1 (DVE says that "cinema modes are more accurate, and "Warm" and similar settings give more accurate grayscale), and shut off all digital picture enhancement as was recommended in this thread. Before my tweaks, SD channels really looked like crap. Now they look decent, and the HD channels and DVD look stellar.

I have one other question. When I select "Expand", the picture looks off center in that on the left side, there's a slim gray bar, then the picture starts, and I can't see the right edge of the picture. Is this a user-adjustable feature. I'm not so sure because there's no setting in the menu and no mention of it in the manual that I can find. I simply run the TV in "Wide" mode.....with the DVE disc I note 2.5% overscan on both sides, and 3-4% vertically on their test pattern. Seems good enough to me.

Thanks again for your help. So far, after 21 hours, the 5063 looks like a keeper.

Edit: Collin, I was typing just as you posted. As noted above, I ended up leaving the 2910 at its default values and calibrating the TV. Once the bulb has around 100 hours I plan a professional calibration, there are several folks around here who do that.

Originally posted by neuronbob
deckscrew, I have a SIR T-160. On the back of mine, I have to manually set two things: I have to set a display control to either DVI/RGB or YCrCb, then I have to set the outgoing resolution to 1080i, 720p, or 480p separately. Is the 451 similar (look on the back)? If so, you have to set these manually to get a picture.

Thanks for the replies to my question. I calibrated the TV and left the 2910 at defaults. I'm running in Cinema mode with Warm1 (DVE says that "cinema modes are more accurate, and "Warm" and similar settings give more accurate grayscale), and shut off all digital picture enhancement as was recommended in this thread. Before my tweaks, SD channels really looked like crap. Now they look decent, and the HD channels and DVD look stellar.

I have one other question. When I select "Expand", the picture looks off center in that on the left side, there's a slim gray bar, then the picture starts, and I can't see the right edge of the picture. Is this a user-adjustable feature. I'm not so sure because there's no setting in the menu and no mention of it in the manual that I can find. I simply run the TV in "Wide" mode.....with the DVE disc I note 2.5% overscan on both sides, and 3-4% vertically on their test pattern. Seems good enough to me.

Thanks again for your help. So far, after 21 hours, the 5063 looks like a keeper.

Edit: Collin, I was typing just as you posted. As noted above, I ended up leaving the 2910 at its default values and calibrating the TV. Once the bulb has around 100 hours I plan a professional calibration, there are several folks around here who do that.

To adjust the image position, you'll have to use the service mode. It sounds like you've already been in there adjusting the gamma. Well in the same menu you adjusted the gamma (DDP1010) you'll see POS-Y and POS-X that will adjust the horizontal and vertical position of the image. DVE has some geometry test patterns that should help. Note that when entering the service mode the set will switch into "Wide TV" mode, so you'll need to exit the service mode to test "Expand".

- Collin

Nueronbob, thanks for the reply.

I set my 451 manually to YCrCb, set the outgoing resolution to 720, plugged in to the TV, set the TV source to component 1 and still the message says no signal. I unplugged my cable in and still no signal. Shouldn't I get the menu to come up on the screen if I make the source component 1 with or without the antenna plugged in? Maybe I should take both component back

deckscrew, the first time I plugged in my 160 via component cable (just to test--I'm actually using DVI), the cable wasn't plugged in all the way on all three terminals, so the TV didn't read it. Try again?

They are plugged in all the way, in fact I just checked again. Even if I don't plug in the antenna, shouldn't I get the 415's menu to come on the screen?

Either something with the TV is wrong or I'm doing something wrong. I've spent over 6 hours switching cables and pushing buttons, and all I can get is a STD cable signal and an AV signal.

I don't think this should be so complicated.

I've search around quite a bit for an answer to my pop/pip question with no signs of an answer.....has anyone successful gotten their POP feature to work with multiple component inputs?

Perhaps you're presenting a signal not compatible with that particular input... some component inputs are SD/EDTV only (for DVDs). Some are HD only & won't accept an SDTV signal. I don't think this is an issue with the latest model Sammys, they accept 480i - 1080i on all component inputs. Make sure you're in the right port & have it selected for viewing.

Originally posted by dsouzas
I've search around quite a bit for an answer to my pop/pip question with no signs of an answer.....has anyone successful gotten their POP feature to work with multiple component inputs?

Not possible. You can only put a component input in the LEFT POP pane. Can't put one in the right side so it's not possible to view two component inputs side by side. Just as an FYI, DVI won't let you use POP at all (can only keep DVI in the main window and use S-Video or worse in the sub window) and HDMI doesn't work with PIP/POP at all.

Not sure what sources you are trying to use with the component POPs but it may be possible to wire say a cable box using both component and S-Video at the same time so you can use S-Video just for the right POP. That's what I do with pretty good results.

I went to CC today and told them of the problem with the component input (no signal at #1) I was told that the DVD should be hooked up to Comp #2., and that Comp #1 was for video games. Sure enough Comp #2 works. Does the TV distinguish between what is hooked up? You'd think they would let you know in the manual.

I don't know sounds like a load of crap.

deckscrew,

that's definitely not true. on the HLNs the component inputs acccepted different resolutions. on the HLPs, the two component inputs function exactly the same and accept all 4 formats.

Originally posted by deckscrew
I was told that the DVD should be hooked up to Comp #2., and that Comp #1 was for video games. Sure enough Comp #2 works. Does the TV distinguish between what is hooked up? You'd think they would let you know in the manual. I don't know sounds like a load of crap.

I have an HL-P5063 and have my DVD hooked up to component 1 with no problem whatsoever. I initially had my cable box hooked up to component 1 before I switched it to DVI. Sounds like you may have a bad component input. It happens. Tell them you want the set serviced. Something isn't right.

deckscrew, sorry for the late reply to your last message. What the CC rep told you was pure bull. I agree with Gojhawks, something isn't right. I didn't have as hard a time as you did connecting to either component port on my HL-P5063W. Your demo set should be replaced with a new one, or CC needs to help you arrange for its service.

I have one other question regarding my set: What do you all set the "sharpness" control at? I realize that sharpness has its function mostly on CRT sets, and when I was adjusting the set using DVE I didn't notice ANY difference at any sharpness level, so I turned it to 0. It seems to make no difference in PQ and I'm unsure why this control would be added to a digital set.

Keep sharpness at 0. You will notice a difference when using PC with sharpness at 0 more than anything else and big time if using the vga connection. Yep, Deckscrew you have a bad component port.

Thanks for all the replies. I've only had it for one week. I'll take it back today.

Thanks for the comment, Mark. So can anyone figure why the ancient sharpness control remains on a digital TV, where it is apparently basically functionless?

Originally posted by neuronbob
Thanks for the comment, Mark. So can anyone figure why the ancient sharpness control remains on a digital TV, where it is apparently basically functionless?

Sharpness does have a noticeable affect when the DNIe mode is enabled.

- Collin

I've checked the SM on my Nov 04 build 4663 and the Gamma is set to 2. I see that quite a few people recommend changing that to 0. What will this do for me?

thanks!

It may make the colors more natural for your viewing source.

Setting it to 0 should make the lighting look more natural, less "washed out".

A good demonstration of the effects of different gammas (and a variety of other adjustments) can be found here (http://www.milori.com/articles/image_quality_issues.asp).

Originally posted by collinp
Sharpness does have a noticeable affect when the DNIe mode is enabled.

- Collin

Luckily, I have that off, as recommended in this thread. DNIe (and the other factory defaults together) made SD shows almost unbearable to watch.

This may not be the appropriate place for these posts. I have an HDTivo connected to my set using HDMI, 720p, expanded. For the last couple of nights I've notice that anything reordered on NBC HD has a 1 in purple line across the top or a 1 in green line. Any help pointing me in the right direction is appreciated.


Thanks in Advance

Thanks Cheezmo - great link.

Thanks AkaStp as well. Very interesting about the rainbows. I do see them, although not nearly as much as when I first got the set. I doesn't bother me anymore but if I can reduce it...that's great.

THANKS!

Originally posted by AkaStp
I found that changing gamma to 0 from the default of 4 or 2 results in a reduction in rainbows that occur mainly when bright white objects (such as lights, text, etc.) appear on a predominantly dark background. With gamma set to 0 whites are not quite as bright. Eye fatigue is also reduced for me with gamma set to 0.

You could achieve the same thing by turning down your contrast. There is nothing magical about a different gamma that will improve the rainbow situation.

I already have my contrast down a bit, but we'll see if this makes a difference with the rainbows.

thanks again!

I know this has been discussed a little before, but I didn't seem to really find a good answer so I'll ask it to see if it's just me or my set....

I picked up an HLP5063 about 2 weeks ago and I've noticed that the green levels seem extremely high. My primary sources are a SA 8300 DVR hooked up via DVI (HDMI --> DVI conversion) and an Elite DV59AVi hooked up via HDMI. I've spent more than a few hours trying various settings to eliminate the green, but without a tint control, my options seem limited. The only option I've found to reduce the green is to enable DNIe and move the green setting to 0. Even with this set, the AVIA patterns still show green at +25%.

After reading all 20 pages of this thread, as well as a few other threads on AVS, I'm still left with a few questions that hopefully someone can throw some answers my way...

1. Is the "green push" normal for this set?
2. Is there some regular setting that I'm missing (trying to avoid the SM)?
3. Would setting the Gamma to 0 help any?
4. Do I need some professional help for an ISF calibration?
5. If so, can anyone recommend someone in the San Diego, CA area?
6. Should I return and rebuy? The set is 2 weeks old and has exhibited the coloration from the begining.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm starting to get "looks" from my wife as we upgraded to this set from a 55" Mitsubishi CRT RPTV that had some beautiful color rendering. The sharpness I'm getting from the combo of the Elite DVD player and the sammy (while it is stunning) is only going to last me so far...

Thanks!

Originally posted by khill821
I know this has been discussed a little before, but I didn't seem to really find a good answer so I'll ask it to see if it's just me or my set....

I picked up an HLP5063 about 2 weeks ago and I've noticed that the green levels seem extremely high. My primary sources are a SA 8300 DVR hooked up via DVI (HDMI --> DVI conversion) and an Elite DV59AVi hooked up via HDMI. I've spent more than a few hours trying various settings to eliminate the green, but without a tint control, my options seem limited. The only option I've found to reduce the green is to enable DNIe and move the green setting to 0. Even with this set, the AVIA patterns still show green at +25%.

After reading all 20 pages of this thread, as well as a few other threads on AVS, I'm still left with a few questions that hopefully someone can throw some answers my way...

1. Is the "green push" normal for this set?
2. Is there some regular setting that I'm missing (trying to avoid the SM)?
3. Would setting the Gamma to 0 help any?
4. Do I need some professional help for an ISF calibration?
5. If so, can anyone recommend someone in the San Diego, CA area?
6. Should I return and rebuy? The set is 2 weeks old and has exhibited the coloration from the begining.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm starting to get "looks" from my wife as we upgraded to this set from a 55" Mitsubishi CRT RPTV that had some beautiful color rendering. The sharpness I'm getting from the combo of the Elite DVD player and the sammy (while it is stunning) is only going to last me so far...

Thanks!

It's just a calibration thing. Get it ISF tuned. These things are extremely inconsistent out of the box. Mine was pretty green happy in the low IREs out of the box. I tuned it up with ColorFacts and the picture looks great. The 59AVi is a great player, you should be able to achieve a very film-like picture when viewing high-quality DVD transfers.

Gamma 0 will not help your green issue. Gamma 0 sets your overall grayscale curve properly. Your problem is that the primaries are not tracking properly relative to each other. See <http://www.milori.com/articles/image_quality_issues.asp> for examples of different image problems. I'll bet you're set looks like the "Poor Grayscale Tracking" example.

- Collin

Originally posted by khill821
I picked up an HLP5063 about 2 weeks ago and I've noticed that the green levels seem extremely high.

I've had two HLP5063 sets (March and October builds) and neither one had a "green" problem.

but without a tint control, my options seem limited.

Tint controls are not relevant with this technology.

1. Is the "green push" normal for this set?

Not in my experience. I've seen quite a few of them in showrooms and haven't noticed any excess green. It was a problem on the HLM models.

I haven't noticed many "green" complaints either.

2. Is there some regular setting that I'm missing (trying to avoid the SM)?

No.

3. Would setting the Gamma to 0 help any?

Probably not.

4. Do I need some professional help for an ISF calibration?

Can you exchange your current set? I would want a set with reasonable color balance OTB before I hired an ISF calibrator.

6. Should I return and rebuy? The set is 2 weeks old and has exhibited the coloration from the begining.

I would exchange it or if you like something better do that.

I'm starting to get "looks" from my wife as we upgraded to this set from a 55" Mitsubishi CRT RPTV that had some beautiful color rendering.

That's because you have that "fixitmyself" syndrome. ;)

Your are entitled to reasonable colors OTB.

What is the build date for your set? If you exchange it you might want to record the user settings OTB and check the hours on the lamp to be sure your dealer is doing right by you.

Someone suggested that changing the gamma made rainbows less noticeable. There is really nothing about gamma that should affect the visibility of rainbows. I believe that choosing a different gamma just resulted in a an effective lower contrast (dimmer picture) which is what may have caused a reduction of the visibility of rainbows. I would bet that if you matched the contrast level (by measuring how bright white was) you would find the rainbows just as noticeable with the two different gammas.

I just didn't want people to think that changing your gamma was some magical solution to the rainbow issue.

Originally posted by collinp
Gamma 0 will not help your green issue. Gamma 0 sets your overall grayscale curve properly. Your problem is that the primaries are not tracking properly relative to each other. See <http://www.milori.com/articles/image_quality_issues.asp> for examples of different image problems. I'll bet you're set looks like the "Poor Grayscale Tracking" example.

- Collin

There is actually somewhat of a green push issue with these sets, but it isn't grayscale or color decoding (which is what green push would typically refer to).

The problem is that the green primary itself is oversaturated (not too bright, but too green) if you were to look at a CIE color diagram). Fortunately, the later firmware versions of the HL-P5063 allow for the primaries (and secondaries) to be adjusted and you can get pretty darn near perfect colorimetry with these sets. The problem is that you need a spectroradiometer to measure and adjust primaries. Make sure your ISF calibrator has the equipment and knowledge to make this adjustment and your HLP's color reproduction can be transformed from "limey" to excellent.

Originally posted by Cheezmo
...The problem is that the green primary itself is oversaturated (not too bright, but too green) if you were to look at a CIE color diagram). Fortunately, the later firmware versions of the HL-P5063 allow for the primaries (and secondaries) to be adjusted and you can get pretty darn near perfect colorimetry with these sets...

Cheezmo, I have a 5063 set, July 2004 build, firmware 1024. I agree that the green is too saturated, but that is really my only complaint with the PQ OTB. Is the 1024 build able to be corrected as you state?

Originally posted by Cheezmo
There is actually somewhat of a green push issue with these sets...

I must be going "green" blind. I didn't see it in our first HLP5063 (ver. 1011 - March) or in our current HLP5063 (ver. 1035 - October). I used to see a green cast to most images in the HLM and HLN sets.

Maybe my glasses are filtered for green. :)

It is not a "green cast". It is greens and yellows that just aren't quite the right color of green/yellow. To me they looked kind of "flourescent". Football goalposts were a good example of a yellow that just didn't look right. The background green on the HD Tivo menus also looked wrong compared to my CRT RPTV. Then when I measured the primaries it was obvious to see that the green was significantly off the mark.

Originally posted by Cheezmo
There is actually somewhat of a green push issue with these sets, but it isn't grayscale or color decoding (which is what green push would typically refer to).

The problem is that the green primary itself is oversaturated (not too bright, but too green) if you were to look at a CIE color diagram). Fortunately, the later firmware versions of the HL-P5063 allow for the primaries (and secondaries) to be adjusted and you can get pretty darn near perfect colorimetry with these sets. The problem is that you need a spectroradiometer to measure and adjust primaries. Make sure your ISF calibrator has the equipment and knowledge to make this adjustment and your HLP's color reproduction can be transformed from "limey" to excellent.

Thanks for the information. The oversaturation issue sounds exactly like what I have. So it sounds like I'm definitely in the calibration market. That being said, can anyone recommend a calibrator in the San Diego area with knowledge about these sets?

Thanks!

Originally posted by Cheezmo
There is actually somewhat of a green push issue with these sets, but it isn't grayscale or color decoding (which is what green push would typically refer to).

The problem is that the green primary itself is oversaturated (not too bright, but too green) if you were to look at a CIE color diagram). Fortunately, the later firmware versions of the HL-P5063 allow for the primaries (and secondaries) to be adjusted and you can get pretty darn near perfect colorimetry with these sets. The problem is that you need a spectroradiometer to measure and adjust primaries. Make sure your ISF calibrator has the equipment and knowledge to make this adjustment and your HLP's color reproduction can be transformed from "limey" to excellent.

Interesting post. My ISF calibrator wouldn't touch my HLP5063 (1024 firmware) when he saw a hint of green in my grayscale pattern. He blamed Samsung and said the set could not be calibrated to correct the problem. I'm out $75 for the "housecall".

Without seeing what he saw, I can't really comment on the problem, but firmware 1024 has given me headaches on several calibrations. I would try to find some issue (discrete IR codes, for example) to try to get Samsung to upgrade you to 1035, then find a calibrator who is familiar with the set and "primary/secondary calibration with the CCA menu"

Originally posted by Cheezmo
It is not a "green cast". It is greens and yellows that just aren't quite the right color of green/yellow.
Thanks for the clarification. I'll leave that improvement up to SethS when he calibrates my set. :D

Originally posted by khill821
That being said, can anyone recommend a calibrator in the San Diego area with knowledge about these sets?

I know that SethS has done calibration tours in Southern California. He is based in Santa Cruz. He might also be able to recommend someone.

Like Cheezmo he owns a HLP5063.

Try a PM. He sometimes gets busy and doesn't check his PM's. If that happens PM me and I'll give you his email address.

Originally posted by Cheezmo
It is not a "green cast". It is greens and yellows that just aren't quite the right color of green/yellow. To me they looked kind of "flourescent". Football goalposts were a good example of a yellow that just didn't look right. The background green on the HD Tivo menus also looked wrong compared to my CRT RPTV. Then when I measured the primaries it was obvious to see that the green was significantly off the mark.

This is exactly what I'm seeing. After going through the AVIA calibrations, I've gotten most of the settings looking really good. It's definitely livable as-is which shows me why many people don't notice it. When I see yellow, it tends to have a little bit of green in it. If this were a CRT, I would figure the green gun needed to be turned down a little.

I checked my firmware this morning and it's 1035. At this point I don't think there is anything wrong with the set warranting an exchange or return. In my opinion it seems that this greenness can be eliminated with some professional calibration help.

I did notice the effect to be much less noticable when I turned off DNIe. The image doesn't look as sharp to me anymore. I'm sure I was just seeing the artifical edges introduced by the enhancement, but I can definitely see why people get excited about stuff like that.

Here is an image, courtesy of Seth (mentioned above) that shows what the colorspace of an uncalibrated HL-PXX63 looks like. Calibrated, everything lines up almost perfectly.

The cyan and magenta being pulled toward blue is due to the grayscale being way too blue (and can be improved by a user by selecting a warmer grayscale). The yellow being pulled toward green is due to the green primary being off.

Originally posted by Cheezmo
Without seeing what he saw, I can't really comment on the problem, but firmware 1024 has given me headaches on several calibrations. I would try to find some issue (discrete IR codes, for example) to try to get Samsung to upgrade you to 1035, then find a calibrator who is familiar with the set and "primary/secondary calibration with the CCA menu"

Thank you. I will try that. FWIW, I had my LE replaced after that failed ISF calibration. The situation improved, but only slightly.

Last week, I had what I consider a very knowledgeable Samsung Tech out to replace my smudge screen (btw, if you have smudges and haven't done this yet -- do it ! -- the new screens are great and he let me keep the old one for a spare in case the new screen ever gets scratched). He indicated that the CCA menu must be adjusted when a new LE is installed. Apparently, each LE comes with a piece of paper which sets forth the required changes in the Service Menu. Needless to say, my LE repairman threw in the new LE and left. The Samsung Tech thinks this may be contributing to my gray scale problem.

New version of LE is due out in June/July, I'm in line to get one and get the Service Menu properly adjusted when it is installed.

Originally posted by Cheezmo
Here is an image, courtesy of Seth (mentioned above) that shows what the colorspace of an uncalibrated HL-PXX63 looks like. Calibrated, everything lines up almost perfectly.

The cyan and magenta being pulled toward blue is due to the grayscale being way too blue (and can be improved by a user by selecting a warmer grayscale). The yellow being pulled toward green is due to the green primary being off.

Whoa!! That's not even close to mine. I wonder if they've changed the filters. My HLN had a pretty elevated green, but my HLP green is much more in line with the 709 standard. Its not spot on with the standard like red and blue, but not too far off.

I assume Seth's measurements are with CCA off, a 70 IRE window, and "Gamma On" to isolate the primaries? That seems the most accurate way to profile the native color gamut. CCA on or off my HLP green will never go that high. Hopefully I can get some measurements for comparison tonight after the wife is done actually watching the set. I'm running a November build HLP 5063W with 1035.

- Collin

FYI, I see the same problem with greens/yellows. Sounds like professional calibration is the only way to get rid of it? I don't want to pay hundreds of dollars to tone down green a bit!

Cush

Originally posted by collinp
Whoa!! That's not even close to mine. I wonder if they've changed the filters. My HLN had a pretty elevated green, but my HLP green is much more in line with the 709 standard. Its not spot on with the standard like red and blue, but not too far off.

I assume Seth's measurements are with CCA off, a 70 IRE window, and "Gamma On" to isolate the primaries? That seems the most accurate way to profile the native color gamut. CCA on or off my HLP green will never go that high. Hopefully I can get some measurements for comparison tonight after the wife is done actually watching the set. I'm running a November build HLP 5063W with 1035.

- Collin

Seth's readings look identical to what I got on my HL-P5063 and what I've seen on other 5063's and 6163's. What are you measuring with? Mine was an April build with 1014 and now 1035, but the firmware change didn't affect it.

Originally posted by Cheezmo
Seth's readings look identical to what I got on my HL-P5063 and what I've seen on other 5063's and 6163's. What are you measuring with? Mine was an April build with 1014 and now 1035, but the firmware change didn't affect it.

ColorFacts Pro w/ an EyeOne Spectroradiometer. I've sanity checked it against a few known references.

Have you seen a November build or later 1035 set? Sounds like you've got a 1014 color wheel / light engine with newer firmware. I wouldn't expect the native primaries to be different with only a firmware update.

- Collin

Could be they've changed the color wheel or something on the newer builds. Good thing!

I've got a November build HLP5063W with 1035 firmware. This set appears to have a different native color gamut from the older sets measured by Cheezmo & SethS. I gathered some measurements for comparison.

All measurements were done using an ColorFacts Pro with an EyeOne Spectroradiometer. I displayed an 80 IRE window and isolated the primaries and secondaries using the Gamma Set function in the service menu.

First up is a measurement of my set with CCA off and the gains and cuts left at their defaults.

These defaults are :

RED_C_COEFF 128
GRN_C_COEFF 128
BLU_C_COEFF 128
RED_B_COEFF 128
GRN_B_COEFF 127
BLU_B_COEFF 128
Sub_Contrast 120
Sub_Brightness 250

- Collin

Next up is my set with CCA off and the gains and cuts tuned to a nice D65K grayscale.

The tuned settings :

RED_C_COEFF 128
GRN_C_COEFF 108
BLU_C_COEFF 93
RED_B_COEFF 126
GRN_B_COEFF 128
BLU_B_COEFF 129
Sub_Contrast 112
Sub_Brightness 246

Notice how everything but the green primary is spot on with the 709 spec.

- Collin

And finally I can enable CCA and tweak it a bit to the green primary in line with 709.

- Collin

It looks like you have the "constrain to gamut" option turned on in the colorfacts software. Make sure that is off (and also turn of the "compute luminance instead of measuring or somesuch).

I'm pretty sure you'll see a completely different picture after that!

Originally posted by Cheezmo
It looks like you have the "constrain to gamut" option turned on in the colorfacts software. Make sure that is off (and also turn of the "compute luminance instead of measuring or somesuch).

I'm pretty sure you'll see a completely different picture after that!

Oooh interesting those are definitely on. I will try again tonight if I get time. I'm surprised these options are on by default, particularly compute luminance of primaries instead of measure.

- Collin

Originally posted by Cheezmo
It looks like you have the "constrain to gamut" option turned on in the colorfacts software. Make sure that is off (and also turn of the "compute luminance instead of measuring or somesuch).

I'm pretty sure you'll see a completely different picture after that!

You nailed it. Thanks. Sorry if I confused matters by not knowing how to use the tools properly.

Here's my real native gamut.

- Collin

And here's one once I tuned the grayscale.

My grayscale tuning was unchanged by turning off "constrain to gamut" however my CCA tuning needed tweaking a bit as my green was still a little high. The big change was actually to the yellow secondary which I had previously left untweaked. It turned out it needed to be brought in quite a bit.

- Collin

Sometime back I measured all the gamma tables on my HLP with ColorFacts. I thought folks might like to see what the curves look like. Also these curves look essentially identical to measurements I took on my HLN a year or so back.

So here it goes :

Gamma 0 - The curve of choice for calibrators. It's a nice smooth ~2.54 exponent curve.

Gamma 1 - A bit darker than gamma 0. A smooth curve with about a 2.57 exponent.

Gamma 2 - The default on my HLP. Its sort of an S shaped curve with exaggerated highs and diminished lows.

Gamma 3 - Linear gamma. No gamma correction.

Gamma 4 - The default on my HLN. An S shaped curve with considerably exaggerated highs and lows.

Gamma 5

Gamma 6

Gamma 7

Gamma 8 - A smooth curve with a 2.0 exponent. A bit too light.

Gamma 9

Originally posted by collinp
And here's one once I tuned the grayscale.

My grayscale tuning was unchanged by turning off "constrain to gamut" however my CCA tuning needed tweaking a bit as my green was still a little high. The big change was actually to the yellow secondary which I had previously left untweaked. It turned out it needed to be brought in quite a bit.

- Collin

Are you planning to take the next step and bring the green and yellow in where they should be?

Oh, I see now CCA was off in the second picture too.

Gamma 10-15 are all the same curve.

Originally posted by Cheezmo
Are you planning to take the next step and bring the green and yellow in where they should be?

Re-reading my last post I realize it didn't make as much sense as I thought it did. The picture was of my primaries and secondaries with CCA off and just the grayscale tuned, but my comments were really about the tweaks I did when CCA was on.

Anyway, I have brought green and yellow into line, as well as cyan, though I forgot to save the CIE chart picture. Everything looks spot on now. I suppose I could just repost my old tuned CIE chart picture with the gamut constraint on, it looks nearly identical.

The apparent changes are slight relative to my previous tuning. Most noticeable is that yellow is a bit more washed out. However, overall I think it had a positive affect on the dimensionality of the image

Now my debate is whether I want to tune to 601 primaries. I have an iScan HD+ connected through DVI and which is mainly used to watch upconverted SD so 601 seems ideal. But for the occasional HD broadcast I may leave the set tuned to 709. As far as can tell the iScan doesn't do any 601 to 709 color gamut conversion.

Thanks again for pointing out the gamut constraint option.

- Collin

Here's a picture of the CIE chart after my set has been tuned. The white outer triangle is the native color gamut of the set. The inner black triangle is the 709 HDTV gamut. The white dots are measurements of the primaries, secondaries, and the white point of the tuned set. They correspond well to the black reference triangle. I actually brought red in a hair after this picture was taken. Also the white point was measured several times at different IRE levels. Since the grayscale is tracking well it all looks like one dot, but there are several stacked on top of each other.

- Collin

Originally posted by AkaStp
So which gamma do you recommend for an uncalibrated HLP5063? Gamma=0?
A lot of people are using 0.

Originally posted by collinp
Next up is my set with CCA off and the gains and cuts tuned to a nice D65K grayscale.

The tuned settings :

RED_C_COEFF 128
GRN_C_COEFF 108
BLU_C_COEFF 93
RED_B_COEFF 126
GRN_B_COEFF 128
BLU_B_COEFF 129
Sub_Contrast 112
Sub_Brightness 246

- Collin

Collin, was this with Cinema mode with Contrast 100, Brightness 45, Color 50? If not, what were your settings?

Thanks.

Sorry to bust into the current convo, but does anyone elses timer light flicker, like all the time. TV off it blinks (like blink...3 sec goes by.. blink blink blink blink (4 times in 1 second), and TV on it blinks more frequently, no like set pattern just completely random.

sorry more details: HLP4663W, 1035 firmware, has done this since the day i got it

nope. It should not do that.

Originally posted by juliox
sorry more details: HLP4663W, 1035 firmware, has done this since the day i got it
What are you waiting for?

Originally posted by Vertigo
Collin, was this with Cinema mode with Contrast 100, Brightness 45, Color 50? If not, what were your settings?

Thanks.

I doubt these settings are transferrable. I tried other peoples tunings on my HLN and they looked terrible. Anyway when you get into service mode you are automatically reverted to the Standard mode with all the controls at default so that's what its tuned in.

Since I posted those numbers, I retuned the grayscale a bit to track better in the sub 20 IRE range. This was mainly done by eye with a little help from the spectrum view as the meter is not very accurate < 20 IRE.

For what its worth, here are my complete set of tweaks for a tuning to the 709 colorspace. I still want to experiment with a 601 colorspace. My set is a November build HLP5063W with 1035 firmware. Again I am sure that just entering these into your set will not result in an accurate image.

709 Tuning

User Mode :

Color Tone Warm1
Size Expand
Contrast 100
Brightness 45
Sharpness 0
Color 60
DNIE Off
Digital NR Off

Service Mode :

GAMMA 0
INDEX DELAY 37

RED_C_COEFF 128
GRN_C_COEFF 108
BLU_C_COEFF 93
RED_B_COEFF 128
GRN_B_COEFF 127
BLU_B_COEFF 128

Sub_Contrast 112
Sub_Brightness 246

Red-x 646
Red-y 332
Red-Y 52
Green-x 285
Green-y 666
Green-Y 152
Blue-x 151
Blue-y 57
Blue-Y 16
White-x 313
White-y 329
White-Y 216

DRedX 643
DRedY 332
DGreenX 318
DGreenY 601
DBlueX 151
DBlueY 57
DCyanX 235
DCyanY 335
DMagentaX 310
DMagentaY 154
DYellowX 420
DYellowY 512
D-White-X 313
D-White-Y 329

- Collin

Originally posted by htwaits
What are you waiting for?


was waiting for some ideas why it may be doing it or if it should or shouldnit


butttt... i fixed it. both of my laptops had their IrDA ports on, and the IR traffic was getting picked up by the IR eye on the TV, causing 'timer' light to blink. shut off IR ports, all is well

Ok guys, without getting too technical, help me out here. I just bought the 4663 from BB and Im having one of their service techs come out to mess with PQ.

When I watch anything but HD, the picture seems washed out. I even upgraded to an HD box, but didnt see much difference.

I also play a lot of xbox and sometimes the picture is too dark...so I have my brightness above 70 when playing. Then when I play maps(for Ghost Recon 2) with night vision, if there is any fog I get blinded and cant see anything. On my old Advent 27" HDTV that was never a problem.

Ive used a calibration DVD, but when I was calibrating the contrast, brightness and all the other video thingies, they never looked like what the calibration DVD said the test images were supposed to look like, no matter what I did.

Do you think the BB tech will be able to fix the problem?

Originally posted by juliox
butttt... i fixed it. both of my laptops had their IrDA ports on, and the IR traffic was getting picked up by the IR eye on the TV, causing 'timer' light to blink. shut off IR ports, all is well
Details, details, details! :) ... and I blamed the TV. :(

Thanks for the info Collin. I will try those settings. I have an HLP4663W w/ 1035 firmware.

Collin, thanks for the settings. My picture looks great. Go figure. I did have to keep INDEX DELAY setting at 47, which is the default. Otherwise, it looks bad at 37.

Collin,

What were your default settings before you tuned the device. I'm curious what difference there are between the Feb05 1035 and yours (and whether they are different between different models).

Ross

Hello. What a great forum. I've been poring over hundreds of pages, soaking in as much info as possible.

I just bought a slightly used 4663 in late January. Circuit City said they had delivered the wrong set; customer had ordered a 50". Hmmmmm. But the price was good, around $1,900 and I bought the ext. warranty. It's a June 2004, ver 1024. But whoa, the bulb has 1,000 hours already. I'm not sure I believe CC's story now.

As most of you seem to have figured out, these great TV's don't always look as great in your living room as they did in CC. Like many of you, I was unable to tweak the user settings to any satisfaction, though making Gamma=0 was quite helpful. So I've ordered the Service Manual. My background is medical electronics, so I thought I'd take a stab at this. In 20 years of tweaking complex medical equipment, I've never killed anyone, so hopefully I won't kill this TV.

Question: All this talk about ISF Calibration. Is this a business worth looking into? It looks like the equipment investment wouldn't be too prohibitive, and I have a feeling that I'd really enjoy the work. I've been checking out Sencore's website for training/cert possibilities. Is this a business whose time has come?

Steve

If this is the wrong forum for this, please direct me to the right place.

Curious as to how calibrating these TVs works. I believe I read that Collin did his calibrating on the DVI input. Are the settings that he optimized in the DNIe and CCA submenus (for his set) applied globally to all of his inputs or are one/both of the submenu settings unique per input?

Originally posted by smithre4
Collin,

What were your default settings before you tuned the device. I'm curious what difference there are between the Feb05 1035 and yours (and whether they are different between different models).

Ross

Here's a text file with all my defaults. I wrote down everything before I was certain which inputs were linked so there's a lot of redundancy here. I've been meaning to consolidate my defaults into an Excel file, but haven't gotten around to it yet. I also think I may have missed the different defaults for SD vs HD component. I route all video through a DVDO iScan HD+ so the only input I've touched is the DVI/HDMI input.

I've never seen two Samsung DLP sets with the same defaults. The same model, firmware, and build date will have different defaults. There looks to be some meager attempt to calibrate these things at the factory, though with obviously inconsistent results and clearly not to any industry standard.

There are other defaults posted throughout this thread for comparison.

- Collin

Hey all, read through all 23 pages - very informative.

I am a proud new owner of a HLP5063w, just recieved it yesterday. Out of the box I am very happy with the picture on all inputs (only using s-video for SD cable; component for DVD, HDTV OTA, D-VHS, XBOX [via Audio Auth component switcher]; and VGA for my PC and myHD HDTV card). So far no sign of smudges or green push. No three lights of death - keeping my fingers crossed. I have not gone in to the SM yet to get my version number (I will record all of the default SM settings for my build date and firmware version if anyone is interested), but I did note that my manufacture date is March 2005. Hope this bodes well for me.

Wife is very happy with it, although she is not as critical as I when it comes to the picture quality. We're going from a front projection setup (first X1, most recently Optoma exPro739) to this...we disliked living in a cave!! I will sell the X1 and keep the Optoma as a backup just in case I need to send the Samsung back. The other nice thing is I have a Samsung 30" HDTV set in the bedroom, so I'm familiar with the menu system and remotes.

I do have one question: my Harmony remote when programmed with the Samsung doesn't use discreet codes when changing input. It steps through the "source" button repeatedly based on where you are and where you want to go, but due to the fact that the Samsung only lets you cycle through inputs that actually have devices attached, the Harmony gets all screwed up. I need to figure out how to tell the harmony that I'm only using three of the inputs and have it use discreet codes. Anybody been through this before?

TIA,
GT

[edited for typos--hope i got them all :-)]

debsman,

Check out this thread (it's long but some of the posts towards the end deal w/ the Harmony remotes - I use an MX 500 so I haven't really read through those posts):
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&postid=5400637#post5400637

I recently purchased an HLP 5663 and I have the Dish Network HD box. My problem is that I am seeing a fair amount of video noise (best way I can think to describe it) when watching HD. Sometimes its more noticeable than others like when there is pan to a pale blue sky or on a gray background. I also see it on DVDs using the panny s97, so that about rules a Dish Network pq issue.

Is this normal? I went to BB and stared at a 5063 for a while and couldn't really see any of this video noise at all on their set. I had a Samsung tech come out and we watched different HD channels, sometimes we could see it easily and sometimes not at all. This led him to believe it was coming from the source and not a problem witht the tv. He changed the LE to fix a problem with a dark spot in the lower left hand corner which didn't bother me at all since it could only be seen on a white screen.

-Scott

Yeah Collin, there are many differences.

Ross

Originally posted by threei
I recently purchased an HLP 5663 and I have the Dish Network HD box. My problem is that I am seeing a fair amount of video noise (best way I can think to describe it) when watching HD.

Is this normal?

threei - are you talking about darker colors being contoured and splotchy? I had that problem on walls, skies, and most dark sections of HD broadcasts, especially HBO HD. Changing the GAMMA to 0 in the SM took care of a lot of it. I also think that my D* dish may have "slipped" (installed and aimed it myself) and the signal may not be as strong as it ought to be. :( I used to get 100%'s on the Signal Matrix; now I'm in the mid to upper 90's. Also, the individual Transponder readings used to be in the 90's, now all I can get is upper 80's. I'm not ready to blame my TV yet, though I think we all know they need major calibration after delivery.

Verify your Dish Network signal strength. If it's OK, get into the SM and set the GAMMA to 0. Then start turning things DOWN. In the Standard Mode on my 4663, I've set the ColorTone to Normal, Contrast 85, Brightness 35, Sharpness 0, Color 40; DNR and DNIe OFF. (Remember, your Brightness control is for setting Black, and your Contrast control is for setting White, backwards from logical thinking.)

Got a DVI output like my SIR-TS360? Can you set the HD box to output 720p? That helped mine just a bit, tho not much. If you can do that, then set the Size Control on your TV to "Expanded". From what I've read here, that's the native setting to use on our TV's when watching SD if it's coming in at 720p from your STB.

Someone correct me if any of this info is wrong. I'm learning, too.

BTW, NCIS (CBS) and Blind Justice (ABC) were both spectacular in HD last night, with none of the problems I sometimes get (as threei was describing). I'm receiving them on a junk off-air antenna on my roof, not D*. Makes ya wonder!

im thinking of buying the HLP5063w

is there a delay with gaming on this TV? Thats my main reason im getting it.

Originally posted by Zidion
im thinking of buying the HLP5063w

is there a delay with gaming on this TV? Thats my main reason im getting it.

I just bought the 4663 and I have no delay with gaming...which is the reason why I bought the TV as well. Just make sure you have it hooked up through the Monster Component AV pack.

i have monster cables on my TV right nowf or my xbox.

is that what you're talking about or the Hi Definetino thing from microsoft?

Originally posted by Zidion
im thinking of buying the HLP5063w

is there a delay with gaming on this TV? Thats my main reason im getting it.

There is a bit of delay on this set. I don't find it too bad for games, but hardcore gamers might be disappointed. The delay is least if you feed the set a digital 720p signal. Standard def signals need to be deinterlaced and scaled which incurs a small delay.

- Collin

Hi All

Enjoy all the information on this forum. Thanks for all the tips

Just a question. I have an HLP4663 and I was wondering if inside this set is the same projector as the larger sets. I suspect (but am unsure) that the projector and the all electronics are the same in the 63 series (or others) and that it is only the size of the cabinet/screen that is the real difference. Which makes me wonder at the cost of the larger sets if this is true.
I mean why pay $100s or $1000s more for a bigger plastic box that probably costs maybe $50 more for the largest size.
Anyone know anything about this?

Thanks

Regards

Paul

Originally posted by Zidion
i have monster cables on my TV right nowf or my xbox.

is that what you're talking about or the Hi Definetino thing from microsoft?

Im using the advanced HD AV pack from monster to hook my xbox up. Its the AV pack with the green cord and 3 component cables and the R and W audio cables and has the ability to output an optical connection. If you go to monster.com and look up gaming consoles its their best connection.

And I am a serious gamer. I play GR2 and H2 competitively over Xbox Live. I was worried that there would be a delay as well, but I either got lucky or its just the component inputs that make it work. I also use the optical connection for audio and I have no audio running to the TV anyway.

Another thing that I used that will help any connection is this stuff called Pro Gold. Its looks like light brown fingernail polish, but you just apply a little bit to the end of your connections(anything but Cat5 or optical) and you will have better conductivity. Some of your high end audio shops carry it, and Im sure you can find it on ebay for much cheapter.

I have a 5063 Build date Aug 04 Firmware 1024 connected to a Comcast 6208 box with a DVI cable from Pacific cable. Occasionally the picture will drop out and the screen turns to complete snow (like the old TVs when you turned to a channel that wasn't broadcasting, but this is actually snow in color). If I turn the box off and back on (leaving the TV on), the picture is back. I hooked up a composite video cable as a backup and it works fine when I switch the input on the TV while the DVI is snow.
It was my understanding that a DVI cable either worked all the time or not at all, but it seems like it is a faulty cable.
Any thoughts?
Thanks

Originally posted by crbierman
I have a 5063 Build date Aug 04 Firmware 1024 connected to a Comcast 6208 box with a DVI cable from Pacific cable. Occasionally the picture will drop out and the screen turns to complete snow (like the old TVs when you turned to a channel that wasn't broadcasting, but this is actually snow in color). If I turn the box off and back on (leaving the TV on), the picture is back. I hooked up a composite video cable as a backup and it works fine when I switch the input on the TV while the DVI is snow.
It was my understanding that a DVI cable either worked all the time or not at all, but it seems like it is a faulty cable.
Any thoughts?
Thanks

I know a lot of set top boxes have problems using the digital inputs sometimes. Call your cable company and make sure they have everything activated correctly. Or if you just bought the cable, return it and try another one.

Originally posted by SR Immortal
Im using the advanced HD AV pack from monster to hook my xbox up. Its the AV pack with the green cord and 3 component cables and the R and W audio cables and has the ability to output an optical connection. If you go to monster.com and look up gaming consoles its their best connection.

And I am a serious gamer. I play GR2 and H2 competitively over Xbox Live. I was worried that there would be a delay as well, but I either got lucky or its just the component inputs that make it work. I also use the optical connection for audio and I have no audio running to the TV anyway.

Another thing that I used that will help any connection is this stuff called Pro Gold. Its looks like light brown fingernail polish, but you just apply a little bit to the end of your connections(anything but Cat5 or optical) and you will have better conductivity. Some of your high end audio shops carry it, and Im sure you can find it on ebay for much cheapter.

Yep I have the same config and haven't experienced any delays or audio issues while gaming.

Ross

Originally posted by crbierman
It was my understanding that a DVI cable either worked all the time or not at all, but it seems like it is a faulty cable.
Any thoughts?

It sounds like a faulty STB to me. :)

Originally posted by plaplante
I have an HLP4663 and I was wondering if inside this set is the same projector as the larger sets.

All HLPxx63 sets have the same internal components.

Which makes me wonder at the cost of the larger sets ...

It's what the market will bear. Price isn't always a function of cost. During the close-out phase (lower demand) the different screen sizes get much close together in price.

I think the one exception is that the 61" sets have a brighter/different bulb than the other sizes so presumably the light engines are somewhat different as well.

Originally posted by EricScott
I think the one exception is that the 61" sets have a brighter/different bulb than the other sizes so presumably the light engines are somewhat different as well.
Nope.

Originally posted by htwaits
Nope. Doesn't the 61 still use a different ballast to put a little more juice to the same 100w Philips bulb now that the Oswald 125w aren't available for the 61 any more? Thought I read something like that.

Originally posted by 1Mark1
Doesn't the 61 still use a different ballast to put a little more juice to the same 100w Philips bulb now that the Oswald 125w aren't available for the 61 any more? Thought I read something like that.
Probably, but I don't think that requires changes to the light engine.

Thanks for the feedback on the internals and such.
It seems I have sparked a little debate. Very interesting stuff.

Thanks again

Regards

Paul

Originally posted by plaplante
It seems I have sparked a little debate.
Not by AVS standards. ;)

I've looked through some of these threads. I was thinking of getting a 4663W (I have an older 5065W) but I noticed a large number of audio sync problems in another thread.

Samsung told someone that the number having problems with that set is very small, but I am still concerned.

So I was wondering if people here, who seem to have other problems, issues or questions, have experienced audio delay. And if so, with an SA8000 or 8300 STB? If not, it would ease my mind to know that most people don't have that problem. I never had it with my 5065W.

Thanks, I hope this is the right thread for this.

Rich N.

Rich,

No av sych issues with eithe rthe 8000HD or the 8300HD - i've used both w/ my 5063 - the 8000HD was connected via component; the 8300 via HDMI. I'm running audio through my Onkyo receiver in both cases.

No sync issues here. I also have an 8300HD STB with a Nov 1035 firmware 4663W.

In experimenting with the audio delay issue with my 5063, I came upon something that has me a bit perplexed. All my audio goes through my denon avr. Check it out:

1. Cable is Adelphia digital through a basic Tivo unit through the TVs SVideo- No audio delay.

2. XBox into Tvs comp 1 (480P, 720P), sound through denon, no delay

2a. Panasonic OTA HDTV receiver through TVs comp 1, sound through denon, no audio delay.

3. Denon DVD through TVs comp 1 (480P), sound through denon avr, no delay.

4. myHD card from HTPC to TVs PC input, sound through denon avr, no audio delay.

5. Samsung upconverting DVD player (outputting at 720P) through TVs DVi input, sound through denon avr - more than a 250ms delay.

What gets me is that the discussion here seems to indicate that any delay is most likely due to conversion process (up from 480i or 480p, down from 1080i, etc.) other than native 720p. Why is it, aside from the Component 720P input from the XBox, that the native DVI input at 720P experiences a delay? It's counter intuitive to what I thought it would be.

And you know what, I've watched a couple movies with the upconverting DVD player and didn't really notice the delay. It wasn't until my 7 year old granddaughter pointed it out ("Papa...the ladies mouth doesn't match what she's saying. Is that right?") that I looked a bit harder after gettign over my embarrassment.

-GT (put in his place by a seven year old)

Does any of the following make sense?

It's possible to slow down the audio in the SM of the HLP series TV sets but that would only effect sound processed by the TV.

If the sound is going to a separate AVR and it's being delayed (hard to explain how) then it can't be the TV. It has to be either the source or the AVR.

Some DVD players and some AVR's have audio delay capability to slow down the audio so that it can be matched to video that has been delayed by processing.

If audio is behind the video (strange) it just about has to be a bad setup or failure in a DVD or AVR. The only other explanation would be bad source material.

Otherwise a sync problem has to be caused by the video lagging behind the audio. Now that kind of lag can be caused by a TV, up-converting DVD player, up-converting STB, the original source, or all of the above at the same time. :)

I too had noticeable audio sync problems. The only solution was to bite the bullet and buy a new AVR with audio sync delay features. I settled on the Yamaha RXV 1500 which also has YAPO for room EQ and sound setup. Now everything is in sync and balance and EQ'd, but it was another expense.

What I have read (and heard) is that pretty much any video processing will impart an audio sync problem, noticeable in varying degrees. Some DVD's are known to have audio sync problems as well due to poor productions.
Until we have instant processing for both the audio video sync issues will be here for a while.

At least the AVR makers are offering a solution, there are several now that offer this feature. I expect that this will be a standard feature on all units within the year as more of us make the move to HD and bigger pictures.

Something to live with for a while.

Regards

Revision: I meant that the audio in all my cases where I said it was delayed actually the video is delayed (read the audio is ahead of the video)...sorry for the confusion.

Then from what I've been reading, this TV (HLP4663W) is seriously flawed if the only way to avoid audio sync problems is to buy a HT (I didn't want to do this, I'm in a condo and the audio must be low) and/or adjust and play with the sound to get the audio delay correct (and that would be for 6 speakers no less).

Geez.

Thanks for the information. I may have to reconsider my choice.

Rich N.

Additional: my denon avr can only delay audio up to 200ms, still not enough for the delay on my DVI input....

[QUOTE]Originally posted by raidbuck
[B]Then from what I've been reading, this TV (HLP4663W) is seriously flawed if the only way to avoid audio sync problems is to buy a HT


I don't think this is the only set that exhibits this flaw, other makes use the same tech. The chip that does the up-conversion within the TV causes a lag (processing) and in the SM you can adjust this TV's audio sync. But only for the TV's internal sound system (and its outputs).

The instant you factor in an AVR for your Dolby or DTS surround and feed your DVD or whatever audio into the outboard unit you will get audio sync issues. Depending on the manufacturer of the TV the sync issues will be of different degree's, Samsung seems to be off more than others, but I think you find that all the sets with this technology probably will have sync issues.

I have never been a fan of the built in speakers on TV sets, although we do get not too bad a sound from the set.
I do get much better sound from our B&W's and our 6:1 Yamaha system than the TV can offer (however I don't live in a condo and can boost the sound a bit, at least until the wife complains).

It is not just our little HT's that suffer either. Did you see how bad the sync was on the video clips at the Academy Awards? It was pretty obvious that they were using similar projection products (much more expensive than what we have) and having the same issues. And these are the movie pro's!

There are fixes but they cost. Unfortunately.

Anyone want to buy a 3 year old Yamaha AV receiver (no audio sync functions), never mind - maybe I will just put it in our kitchen for our surround sound suppers!

Regards

Originally posted by raidbuck
Then from what I've been reading, this TV (HLP4663W) is seriously flawed if the only way to avoid audio sync problems is to buy a HT (I didn't want to do this, I'm in a condo and the audio must be low) and/or adjust and play with the sound to get the audio delay correct (and that would be for 6 speakers no less).

Geez.

Thanks for the information. I may have to reconsider my choice.

Rich N.

When played through the set's internal speakers, there are no sync issues because the TV adds an audio delay internally to match the video delay. This issue arrises when the audio is sent to an external AV processor. When my wife is watching the same program in the next room the echo effect is very annoying!

Hokay then, I'm trying to figure this model out, because I sure would love a 46" DLP w/ taxes and shipping under 2k, and this is one of a handful. I've dragged through a lot of this thread and come to two rough conclusions--you've got a half-decent chance of getting a color problem only a professional can fix, and if you don't have an audio delay receiver you're SOL [Edit: had said AOL instead of SOL . . . haha] on audio synch for home theater.

So is that the bottom line? It sounds like the ancillary expenses to this set are high enough to offset the comparatively low cost? I've also looked at the 4667, but with my wife looking at <$1,000 CRT RPTVs I just can't get above 2k. It might get there with accessories, but for the TV itself . . . no dice. Otherwise Hitachi 51F715 here I come.

Originally posted by ysaric
Hokay then, I'm trying to figure this model out, because I sure would love a 46" DLP w/ taxes and shipping under 2k, and this is one of a handful. I've dragged through a lot of this thread and come to two rough conclusions--you've got a half-decent chance of getting a color problem only a professional can fix, and if you don't have an audio delay receiver you're AOL on audio synch for home theater.

So is that the bottom line? It sounds like the ancillary expenses to this set are high enough to offset the comparatively low cost? I've also looked at the 4667, but with my wife looking at <$1,000 CRT RPTVs I just can't get above 2k. It might get there with accessories, but for the TV itself . . . no dice. Otherwise Hitachi 51F715 here I come.

Well, there is no sync issue with DVDs and most TV shows. I notice that the poorer the video signal, the worse the delay. I don't find it that bad most of the time.

For me, this tv was worth it...and I paid more than $2K for it.

Thank you for the information. A couple price monitoring sites indicate I can get this tv shipped for just under $1820, which I think would get me there. At 10-12 feet viewing distance, I probably could stand to bite the bullet and get the 52" Hitachi. Honestly though I would love to go DLP, avoiding the inevitable burn-in from my wife watching 4:3. And since I don't need the tv until the end of July, I'll probably wait a bit longer to see if prices go down on similar models.

I do worry that my receiver and DVD player aren't going to be up to the task, but honestly I like the idea of 720p since I watch sports (Chicago Bears, Indiana Hoosiers football/basketball) a good bit, and might go with a console for gaming (once again, a burn-in issue).

[QUOTE]In experimenting with the audio delay issue with my 5063, I came upon In experimenting with the audio delay issue with my 5063, I came upon something that has me a bit perplexed. All my audio goes through my denon avr. Check it out:

1. Cable is Adelphia digital through a basic Tivo unit through the TVs SVideo- No audio delay.

2. XBox into Tvs comp 1 (480P, 720P), sound through denon, no delay

How are you inputting 720p from your Xbox?
I too have a 5063 and xbox w/ Monster cable Component/fiberoptic cables and I thought that while watching movies on Xbox the signal was still 480i, upconverting to 480p while playing games was mostly 480p/720p.
The blacks in some movies are pixelated and blotchy. No complaints at all for the games.
I am wondering if I should get another DVD player that would be better than Xbox. How could I hook up the sound though? I have fiberoptic on Xbox and SPDIF on HD STB. I'm thinking that I am going to have to have to share the fiberoptic input and just swap out to match the current source until I can get a better AVR.

Originally posted by edalzell
Well, there is no sync issue with DVDs and most TV shows.



They are definitely sync issues on DVDs. I have th 5063 and the HD931 and often experience audio delaying the video.

For example, I was watching a movie this weekend in which there was clapping. The picture proceed the sound by almost a full beat.

I have been having issues with audio video sync lately. I've been using an HDTivo box HR10-250 and sometimes I get pretty incredible delays. So far I've noticed it on pre-recorded programs and they seem to be worse off-air vs. the satellite channels.

I'm currently hooked up from the HR10-250 to the 4663 via the HDMI cable, and I'm running fiber optic from the HR10-250 to my receiver. It's only going to take a couple more times for me to notice this before I put in a help ticket to Sammy.

Any ideas? Does the sync issue get worse with degraded signal quality? This confuses me as a digital signal is either there or not there. I'd expect freezing or no signal at all vs increased delay time?

NosT wrote: How are you inputting 720p from your Xbox?

The Xbox is connected via component. It only goes to 720P if the game supports it. I dont watch DVDs through the XBox.

To your AVR issue, my AVR has 4 optical inputs and 2 coaxial (all assignable), so I would sya that you will have to do the manual optical cable swap out until you upgrade the AVR.

Cheers.

Originally posted by debsman

To your AVR issue, my AVR has 4 optical inputs and 2 coaxial (all assignable), so I would sya that you will have to do the manual optical cable swap out until you upgrade the AVR.


I picked up a optical splitter (1 in/2 out) at radio shack for $3.


Tom

Originally posted by Nos T
The blacks in some movies are pixelated and blotchy. No complaints at all for the games.

Two things I did that had a big effect on the black pixelation problem:
1. Went into the SM and turned the GAMMA down to 0;
2. Converted both inputs (STB-DVI, DVD-HDMI) going to my 4663 to 720p, the native resolution of the set. (this also took care of 90% of my audio delay issues)

After turning the GAMMA to zero, I adjusted the Brightness (turned it down quite a bit) for good Black and adjusted the Contrast for good White. There's more to it than that, but this should show you major improvements.

Like someone else said, any dark-color pixelation and/or audio delay problems seem to come only from weak signals, and not the fault of the set (garbage in, garbage out).

I was wondering if anyone out there can reccommend an ISF tech in the Boston, MA, Providence, R.I. area that will calibrate a HL-P5063W 10/04?

I am about an hr. south of Boston and 20 min. east of Providence.

I can be reached @ d_nyce_77@yahoo.com if anybody would like to refer me to someone, or refer someone to me.

Thanks
David

Hello,

I am a newbie to avsforum and my 5063w. I currently love everything about the tv. I would like to get some help with setting up my xbox though. I have my xbox connected to the component input 2 with the xbox HD pack. I wanted to know the settings that work the best with the xbox
(I have an asterisk next to my current settings)

Xbox Dash
Video Mode:
Normal or Letterbox or Wide*
480P, 720P, 1080i (all set to yes?)

TV
Picture settings:
Mode: Standard, Dynamic or Cinema*?
Color Tone: Cool2, Cool1, Normal, Warm1, Warm2*?
Size: Wide*, 4:3
Digital NR: Off*, On
DNIe: Off*, On

(Need the most help here)
Contrast?
Brightness?
Sharpness?
Color?
Tint? (I can't seem to change the tint though?)

Also If there is a site or forum that has this info please let me know. I would appreciate any help I can get. Thanx

A lot of potential buyers are worried about PQ with analog cable. I'm sure I'm not the first one to notice this, but I don't recall reading about it:
I have comcast cable box connected to my 5063w via DVI cable. While the HD channels are great, the analog channels do not look good at all. When I recently split the cable and ran one line directly to the TV, the picutre looked pretty good. Very watchable.
just my 2 cents.

Originally posted by BDOT
Hello,

I am a newbie to avsforum and my 5063w. I currently love everything about the tv. I would like to get some help with setting up my xbox though. I have my xbox connected to the component input 2 with the xbox HD pack. I wanted to know the settings that work the best with the xbox
(I have an asterisk next to my current settings)

Xbox Dash
Video Mode:
Normal or Letterbox or Wide*
480P, 720P, 1080i (all set to yes?)

TV
Picture settings:
Mode: Standard, Dynamic or Cinema*?
Color Tone: Cool2, Cool1, Normal, Warm1, Warm2*?
Size: Wide*, 4:3
Digital NR: Off*, On
DNIe: Off*, On

(Need the most help here)
Contrast?
Brightness?
Sharpness?
Color?
Tint? (I can't seem to change the tint though?)

Also If there is a site or forum that has this info please let me know. I would appreciate any help I can get. Thanx

BDOT,

You want to enable at least 480P and 720P for the XBox (currently most games only support 480P). I think I have all three enabled on my console.

As for tuning the contrast, etc, pick up a copy of Avia or Digital Video Essentials. Both discs walk you through how to tune those settings.

BTW - there is a way to enable the HD support of the XBox dashboard. After you enable the 480P support, pull and hold both the left and right triggers. While holding the triggers, click (press in) the left and right thumbsticks. After a brief blank screen, the Xbox Dashboard will display in 480p.

Ross

just got the 3 light blink problem....dead in the water........

Just got a HLP4336W. Still no cable box hook up. We did some experimenting with our set up by just plugging in the analog cable we now have, then hooked up a new Samsung DVD player (AVI from DVD to TV). We have a 10 year Onkyo receiver with 5:1 Surround. We initially had a noticeable "lag" until we disabled the Samsung sound (from the TV speakers). Now the sound is very good.

At the moment we have quite good SD (analog) reception and decent stereo surround sound (no lag) whether we are using a DVD movie or a home made slideshow or watching TV.

Hope this doesn't change when I get the STB on Friday.

tucsonbob,

Is there some way of switching the TV's internal speakers off other than just turning the volume all the way down?

Wes

Originally posted by wsokolosky
Is there some way of switching the TV's internal speakers off other than just turning the volume all the way down?
Yes for HLP sets.