First off, I am new to this forum. I have a problem with my Samsung DLP and hope maybe somebody here could help me. I have an HL-P5063W and just recently experienced some trouble with starting the set up. Normally when I would power the set on, it would make the appropriet humming sounds and would light up and show a picture within 15-20 seconds. Now, I turn the power on and I hear the light popping noise signifying the speakers have power and I hear the fan kick on, however the picture never shows up and the lamp doesn't power on. The set tries to power up 3 times and then all three lights on the power button flash. In the manual it states that this might mean the lamp is bad. So, I just purchased a new lamp from samsungparts (thanks andersa for the tip) and installed it. I turned the power on and the set functioned perfectly and even had a slightly brighter picture. I shut off the set and went to work. When I got home from work (10 hours later) I turned the set back on and the same problem occured. No more picture. I unplugged the set and plugged it back in(after 30 sec.) and on the third try from the set to kick on the lamp, it lit up. Now, every time I turn the set off for more than 10 minutes it will not work properly again after I turn it back on. I'm fairly certain that it isn't the lamp and I just watched the set for about 12 hours last night and it is not functioning again, so I don't know what else could be wrong. I am a rookie when it comes to the functions of the t.v. (i.e. the internal electronics) but I have worked with eletronics before. So if anybody has any idea what the problem could be, it would be much appreciated. I am going nuts not being able to watch a film in my home theatre. Thanks a bunch!

How long have you had the set? If you were inclined to change the bulb, i would guess you've had it for awhile. That being said, you might try removing the back cover and carefully vacuuming out any dust that you might see. I did this without unplugging anything, and i've never replaced my lamp. I just used a vacuum hose with a soft brush attachment. Before doing this my set would power down on its own without a melody. Since the cleaning i've had no problems and have over 6000 hours on the original bulb.

Probably a bad ballast. I've heard that many of them failed on the HL-P series, often around 1 year. If it is still under warranty, they should cover it, if not it still would be worth calling and complaining about in case there is a "secret warranty" for a known issue like that.

I have had the set since the beginning of January 2005. I did vacuum the back of the set a few weeks ago because of the amount of dust on the back of the set, and I thought after I did so, that I may have short something on the inside of the set. I have heard from a few people that it is not a good idea to vacuum around the back of the set just in case the static electricity produced from the vacuum were to short out something in the set. I thought I might open up the back and have the vacuum hose off to the side and use a can of air (used for cleaning computer keyboards) to blow out the dust and use the vacuum hose to catch the dust in mid-air. I've done that with my computer case. Would that work? Thanks so much for the suggestions and replies!

I have a HL-P4663W and I decided to try to do the gamma SM fix, as I find my picture quality a bit lacking. I got a 360 a while ago, and I've been using it a lot but have been a bit disappointed in the quality of the colors. I have read through much of this thread and found that the GAMMA change in DDP1011 seems to be the only real change anyone does. It was set factory default at 2, and I changed it to 0 and it got VERY dark. I tried going back in and found that 8 or 9 seemed to suit me the best. Is this crazy?

I also have what seems to be an overscan problem when using the 360. I never noticed it before until today when I started streaming movies/music/pictures to the 360. A lot of the pictures that were horizontal were cut off on the bottom, pretty substantially. I tried adjusting the V and H position (noting the default values) and I was able to go from the default H value (60) to 86 and 20 on the other end before seeing a black edge. With V (default being 30) I am able to go to 59 before getting to the edge of the vertical bottom and even at that point there is still picture down there. Is this normal? Do I have a problem?

I am using T_ATLNUS_1024 by the way. I haven't seen anyone else in this thread with that firmware. Has anyone else used this firmware before?


Any help/comments would be greatly appreciated.

I have a HL-P4663W and I decided to try to do the gamma SM fix, as I find my picture quality a bit lacking. I got a 360 a while ago, and I've been using it a lot but have been a bit disappointed in the quality of the colors. I have read through much of this thread and found that the GAMMA change in DDP1011 seems to be the only real change anyone does. It was set factory default at 2, and I changed it to 0 and it got VERY dark. I tried going back in and found that 8 or 9 seemed to suit me the best. Is this crazy?

You need to rebalance brightness and contrast with a test pattern disc once you change the gamma table. Gamma 0 is the correct curve for this set. Gamma 8 is a much shallower curve. Shadow detail will be more discernible but hardly accurate. You might find a curve like this desirable to see into the shadows for video game playing but I wouldn't use it for movie watching. Graphs of all the gamma curves can be found here (http://www.gadgetbench.com/hlpgamma/index.php)

I also have what seems to be an overscan problem when using the 360. I never noticed it before until today when I started streaming movies/music/pictures to the 360. A lot of the pictures that were horizontal were cut off on the bottom, pretty substantially. I tried adjusting the V and H position (noting the default values) and I was able to go from the default H value (60) to 86 and 20 on the other end before seeing a black edge. With V (default being 30) I am able to go to 59 before getting to the edge of the vertical bottom and even at that point there is still picture down there. Is this normal? Do I have a problem?

You can use an overscan test pattern to set the h and v positions accurately. Also send 720p to this set and choose the expand option. This will minimize the amount of picture cut off due to overscan and give you a sharper picture.

- Collin

You need to rebalance brightness and contrast with a test pattern disc once you change the gamma table. Gamma 0 is the correct curve for this set. Gamma 8 is a much shallower curve. Shadow detail will be more discernible but hardly accurate. You might find a curve like this desirable to see into the shadows for video game playing but I wouldn't use it for movie watching. Graphs of all the gamma curves can be found here (http://www.gadgetbench.com/hlpgamma/index.php)



You can use an overscan test pattern to set the h and v positions accurately. Also send 720p to this set and choose the expand option. This will minimize the amount of picture cut off due to overscan and give you a sharper picture.

- Collin

Thanks for the response Collin. Where is the expand option? I didn't see it.

Thanks for the response Collin. Where is the expand option? I didn't see it.

Its one of the Picture Size options. But only when you are sending the set 720p.

- Collin

Noticed occasional dimness in set one month prior to problem.

About a month later the set made an awful noise, midtone, almost a groan. The noise seems to eminate from the bottom back center of the set. I walked into the room to see the picture dimming and the screen turning black from the outside toward the middle until the picture was gone. The noise went away and the 3 green lights came on.

Changed the bulb but that did not cure the problem and the noise returned. Noise will go off after a minute or so and 3 lights will come on.

Left set unplugged for a few days, plugged it back in, and noise returned with the same symptoms. Still no picture.

Anyone have any suggestions as to what might have gone out?
Set is HLP6163W.

Its one of the Picture Size options. But only when you are sending the set 720p.

- Collin

Not for me. 360 sends my TV 720p and it only gives me the option for wide and 4:3. The only time I get anything different is when on a TV signal, at which point I get Panoramic, wide, zoom 1, zoom 2 and 4:3.

I'm getting a test pattern disc so that should help too.

Not for me. 360 sends my TV 720p and it only gives me the option for wide and 4:3. The only time I get anything different is when on a TV signal, at which point I get Panoramic, wide, zoom 1, zoom 2 and 4:3.

I'm getting a test pattern disc so that should help too.

Check page 87 of the manual.

Do you have the XBox connected via HDMI/DVI? I don't have a 360, but surely it has an HDMI output, right? The PQ and latency will be better with HDMI, plus you get the expand option.

- Collin

Check page 87 of the manual.

Do you have the XBox connected via HDMI/DVI? I don't have a 360, but surely it has an HDMI output, right? The PQ and latency will be better with HDMI, plus you get the expand option.

- Collin

I just looked on the X-Box site. Apparently it doesn't have HDMI/DVI. I'm completely shocked. So I guess no Expand option for X-Box users.

- Collin

Probably a bad ballast. I've heard that many of them failed on the HL-P series, often around 1 year. If it is still under warranty, they should cover it, if not it still would be worth calling and complaining about in case there is a "secret warranty" for a known issue like that.

Thanks a bunch for the input, Steve. I am pretty certain, now, that it is in fact the ballast. My question for everybody now is, has anybody here had to replace the ballast and if so, what did it cost to replace it? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks again!!

-<correction>- I just sent the set in for repair today and behold, it is not the ballast that is the problem. The repair shop installed a new ballast and the set still did not function. I will be getting a call fom the repair shop tomorrow that will tell me exactly what is wrong with the set. I hope it isn't anything too expensive. (fingers crossed)

Hi everyone,

I have had a HLP5063 for about 1.5 years and I have been very happy with it. Recently, I have been noticing a problem with excess light at the bottom middle of the screen. It is especially noticable when there is a darker scene on the screen.

Any ideas? I have a 4 year extended service plan from CC and it is still on it's first bulb.

Anyone notice that the Component input is a better picture than the HDMI input?

Anyone notice that the Component input is a better picture than the HDMI input?

On my two year old HLP5063W the component and HDMI/DVI input look almost identical. My set was ISF calibrated by Gregg Loewen of Lion Audio/Video Consultants.

Anyone notice that the Component input is a better picture than the HDMI input?

I'm feeding my set with a VP50 which has very good analog and digital outputs and the HDMI output beats out component picture quality wise, albeit subtly.

How do you know the difference isn't in your sources? The Samsung BluRay for instance looks far better when outputting component than HDMI.

Is your set calibrated? Differences in the out of the box calibration for the two inputs might account for the perceived inferiority of the HDMI input. I've precisely calibrated the component and HDMI inputs and the resulting picture quality is pretty close.

- Collin

I just replaced the lamp in my 2 year old HLP4663W (about 5500 hrs. on the lamp). The set kept switching off randomly for no apparent reason. The replacement lamb eliminated that issue. The new lamp is of a totally different design and part number. The picture looks better now than it ever did with the original lamp. The only problem I have is someone (maybe the maid, I already blamed the wife and she denied it) cleaned the screen with something other than water. I see a few streaks now because the anti-glare coating has been contaminated. I can only see the streaks when the set is off and the light reflects at certain angles and in really dark scenes with any light reflections in the room. Be careful with those cleaners.

Overall, I'm still happy with the set, calibrated by me with DVE and my favorite fermented beverage. All inputs appear to be close, as I only changed the gamma to 0 in the SM. IMO, It still has a better picture than most sets on the market today. Enjoy!

I just replaced the lamp in my 2 year old HLP4663W (about 5500 hrs. on the lamp). The set kept switching off randomly for no apparent reason. The replacement lamb eliminated that issue. The new lamp is of a totally different design and part number. The picture looks better now than it ever did with the original lamp. The only problem I have is someone (maybe the maid, I already blamed the wife and she denied it) cleaned the screen with something other than water. I see a few streaks now because the anti-glare coating has been contaminated. I can only see the streaks when the set is off and the light reflects at certain angles and in really dark scenes with any light reflections in the room. Be careful with those cleaners.

Overall, I'm still happy with the set, calibrated by me with DVE and my favorite fermented beverage. All inputs appear to be close, as I only changed the gamma to 0 in the SM. IMO, It still has a better picture than most sets on the market today. Enjoy!

What brand and part number did you replace the original with? Also, where did you purchase it and if i may ask, what was the cost?

I had a problem with The HDMI port going out to a Comcast Cable Box. I assumed the problem was with the box, so I started using component and all was well. Then I tried DVI to the Cable Box and that was also OK.

Yesterday I set-up a brand new Toshiba HD-A2 and could get no signal from the HDMI port whatsoever. I ended up using the DVI port with the HDMI adapter.

Has anyone experienced the HDMI port malfunctioning, if so how was it resolved?
If it is a hardware issue what part would need to be replaced.

Any help will be appreciated.

thank you

Purchased Samsung HLP6053WX in Feb 2004.
Great set - until this week.

1. Viewing set via Dish Network HD box - has worked fine for over 15 months - when screen went 'full white'. Audio from source still present.
2. Unplugged unit for 45 minutes - seemed to reset - after 10 minutes of viewing - screen went 'full white' again, with audio present.
3. Took light cover off to inspect for dust - unit is actually very clean inside.
4. After leaving unit off for several hours, turned back on - works fine - screen goes 'full dark' - audio present.

So it seems to work fine now for several hours - then picture goes away 'dark' -

a. Lamp issue? OK with me - set is very much used in my house over nearly
two years -

No other issues - very quiet unit - very minimal fan noise. No color wheel squeel ever.

Purchased Samsung HLP6053WX in Feb 2004.
Great set - until this week.

1. Viewing set via Dish Network HD box - has worked fine for over 15 months - when screen went 'full white'. Audio from source still present.
2. Unplugged unit for 45 minutes - seemed to reset - after 10 minutes of viewing - screen went 'full white' again, with audio present.
3. Took light cover off to inspect for dust - unit is actually very clean inside.
4. After leaving unit off for several hours, turned back on - works fine - screen goes 'full dark' - audio present.

So it seems to work fine now for several hours - then picture goes away 'dark' -

a. Lamp issue? OK with me - set is very much used in my house over nearly
two years -

No other issues - very quiet unit - very minimal fan noise. No color wheel squeel ever.


Further on my picture issue -

What is happening after viewing normal for about fifteen minutes is the picture will 'sieze up' -
in that it displays a smattering of white-only pixels of a portion of
what was just on the screen -

Audio is normal from any source -

Any comments are welcome -

Couple of Questions

1. What is up with Calibration? What do they do? How much is it, and most importantly...is it worth it??

2. How can I find out how many hours my lamp has on it?

Couple of Questions

1. What is up with Calibration? What do they do? How much is it, and most importantly...is it worth it??

Check out this article (http://www.gadgetbench.com/hlpnotes/index.php) I wrote on my experiences calibrating my HLP-5063W. It should give you a good overview of what they do and what might be out of tune on your set.

The cost of calibration is in the $300-600 range, with an average of about $400.

It is worth every penny in my opinion. The out of box calibration of these sets is terrible, but once tuned they can rival professional mastering monitors (only larger!). If you are a casual TV watcher content with your picture, you might not find it worthwhile. But for all the people who post here saying they see sunburnt faces, green in the shadows, no shadow detail, etc. the answer is calibration.

- Collin

Anyone know if the audio L/R outputs on the back of the HLPs works for the component inputs. I have the Nintendo Wii and the component and audio cables are attached to each other so, there is not enough length between the two to get to both my TV and receiver.

I have had my HLP 6163w for about 2 years now. Had extended warranty from Sears. I had almost 10,000 hours on bulb and picture was real dim. I would get the flashing 3 lights occasionally but shutting off and on would bring it back up.

Sears sent me a replacement lamp but it was the wrong one. I called back to get a new one and now they state a tech has to come out to replace. It is no longer user replaceable. Anyway, tech comes out, looks up the lamp. wants to use same wrong lamp until I correct him. He goes to his van and gets the replacement. Picture is bright again.

Now I see a black smudge in middle of the screen. I call service back out, he opens the circular side access panel and removes the dust with glass cleaner and paper towel on the back bottom of the unit. Smudge is gone but now my picture seems bad.

Is this possible? Could he have messed something up? It appears I now see the screen door effect. I have never seen this before and am sitting 14-15' away. My HD just does not seem impressive. I am also getting a high pitch coming out of my speakers. It is really annoying to listen to. The tech said he could not hear it. Any thought or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Tried my cousin's PS3 via HDMI with my Samsung HL-P5663W and it worked fine for the game "Resistance: Fall of Man". I believe the game is 720p.

However, did we not successfully playback a Blu-ray movie. I hear that the PS3 will not output 720p for Blu-ray movies, but will output 1080i. Can anyone please confirm that there are no issues with the PS3 and Samsung HLP at 1080i output resolution for Blu-ray playback over HDMI? I know that my Samsung should be able to convert 1080i to 720p, but couldn't confirm that it actually worked with the PS3. We got the "signal not supported" message on the Samsung TV over HDMI. Unfortunately, my cousin didn't bring the PS3's proprietary component cable adapter that would have allowed us to change the output resolution of the PS3. Not sure if my cousin had the PS3's output set to 1080p or 1080i. We could not verify last night, and I don't want to ask my cousin to bring over his PS3 again.

Thanks...

Current Equipment:
Samung HLP-5663W
Toshiba HD-A2
Considering getting a Blu-ray player too...

I've been using my PS3 with my HLP5063 over HMDI without issues for Blu-ray movies. I've probably watched a dozen or more. The Sammy takes a 1080i or 720p signal just fine.

I've been using my PS3 with my HLP5063 over HMDI without issues for Blu-ray movies. I've probably watched a dozen or more. The Sammy takes a 1080i or 720p signal just fine.

Excellent! Thanks for the reply... :)

I've had my HLP6163 since August 2004 and love it, even though it's not used all that much.

We've had the Nintendo Wii since the holidays and I just attempted to hook it up via new component cables from Nintendo.

After several attempts and then calling Nintendo, I've discovered that the "green" port on my Component2 connection does not work. It's never been used before, and of course if out of warranty with no extended service plan........

I've removed another component from Component1 so that we can use the Wii in HD (only 480p) and it does offer quite an improvement, so i'd like to continue to use that port.

Has anyone had trouble with the component ports?

I have had approximately 1.5 years. I turn it on and after a relatively short period of time, the picture goes to a black and white look with a green tint. It also becomes somewhat shaky. I have been told that it is the light engine. Are there any suggestions as to what it might be before I go spend 1000.00? Any help would be appreciated.

I have had my HLP5063W for a couple years now and I have a slight problem. I have a non-straight line going down my screen. It is about 1 inch wide,. It is only visible during very dark scenes. The line is always in the same spot cloudy color. I see it no matter what source.

Just curious- I have had my 5063W for about 2.5 years now, and had the ballast and bulb replaced immediately after I got it (ballast was bad). I also have the smudges, but have lived with them cause they dont bug me much. I started looking at this thread again today because my neighbor got a new sammy 1080p dlp and I went to see it, and the picture BLEW me away. I went home and thought, man, HD is really dim, dull, and generally not as impressive as it used to be. It used to blow me away. I get OTA HD so the quality shouldn't have changed, but the picture is noticeably less bright.

Could I need a new bulb???

Lee

I would think that is what you need. Recently I too started having a very weak dim picture on my HL-P6163W. I replaced by bulb (very easy to do) and set my TV up to the same user settings that I found in this attached file to this post http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4813524&&#post4813524 and I am once again very pleased with my 2½ year old set. I had also in the past changed my "Gamma" setting and my "Lamp Boost" in the service menu. I set those back to default, and that helped a lot too!

Good Luck.

Dan





Just curious- I have had my 5063W for about 2.5 years now, and had the ballast and bulb replaced immediately after I got it (ballast was bad). I also have the smudges, but have lived with them cause they dont bug me much. I started looking at this thread again today because my neighbor got a new sammy 1080p dlp and I went to see it, and the picture BLEW me away. I went home and thought, man, HD is really dim, dull, and generally not as impressive as it used to be. It used to blow me away. I get OTA HD so the quality shouldn't have changed, but the picture is noticeably less bright.

Could I need a new bulb???

Lee

I would think that is what you need. Recently I too started having a very weak dim picture on my HL-P6163W. I replaced by bulb (very easy to do) and set my TV up to the same user settings that I found in this attached file to this post http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4813524&&#post4813524 and I am once again very pleased with my 2½ year old set. I had also in the past changed my "Gamma" setting and my "Lamp Boost" in the service menu. I set those back to default, and that helped a lot too!

Good Luck.

Dan

Can you provide a link where you purchased your new lamp? I ordered one from Samsung on the 27th of January and its on back order. I was told its a part coming out of Korea and was given no time for its arrival. Im getting impatient and would like to find another supplier.

Thanks
Mike

As a matter of fact I just ordered a spare today ($149.99 + $15.34 shipping) www.samsungparts.com Same guys I ordered one from back in Sept of 2005. Since it is a spare, I am in no particular hurry to get it (I just like to have a spare on hand.)

I have not got an e-mail confirmation yet, but I was checking prices against eBay and these guys beat eBay prices, and they are an authorized Samsung parts dealer. One note, the lamp number I had just installed was the same one they were recommending, whereas some of the eBay lamps were a different number - not saying they wouldn't work, but I just felt more comfortable ordering the same lamp that I had just installed, since I know it works. By the way the lamp number I ordered was BP96-00826A by Philips. My TV model is HL-P6163W.

By the way, I had about 7500 hours on my lamp!

Good Luck!

Dan



Can you provide a link where you purchased your new lamp? I ordered one from Samsung on the 27th of January and its on back order. I was told its a part coming out of Korea and was given no time for its arrival. Im getting impatient and would like to find another supplier.

Thanks
Mike

As a matter of fact I just ordered a spare today ($149.99 + $15.34 shipping) www.samsungparts.com Same guys I ordered one from back in Sept of 2005. Since it is a spare, I am in no particular hurry to get it (I just like to have a spare on hand.)

I have not got an e-mail confirmation yet, but I was checking prices against eBay and these guys beat eBay prices, and they are an authorized Samsung parts dealer. One note, the lamp number I had just installed was the same one they were recommending, whereas some of the eBay lamps were a different number - not saying they wouldn't work, but I just felt more comfortable ordering the same lamp that I had just installed, since I know it works. By the way the lamp number I ordered was BP96-00826A by Philips. My TV model is HL-P6163W.

By the way, I had about 7500 hours on my lamp!

Good Luck!

Dan
I will need to check my lamp hours but, i know its close to that.

My set is a 4663WX and the lamp with shipping totaled $194.00. :eek:

Whats worse is that I too ordered the BP96-00826A. How is it possible mine was so much more expensive?

I just got off the phone with "Emanual" at www.samsungparts.com. I was able to cancel my original order and place a new one at the lower price. He tells me it will ship in 2 weeks.

My lamp hours is at 8839. Thats alot of TV :D

Good stuff! :)

They must have just dropped the price. Two years ago it was $199.00!

Yes that is a lot of TV! When I did the math for average hours per day, I was surprised my set was on that long each day, but I am pleased with the lamp life. I thought I had read somewhere the lamp was good for about 2000-3000 hours. Maybe that is the life before the output gets below a certain spec - I don't know.

Dan


I just got off the phone with "Emanual" at www.samsungparts.com. I was able to cancel my original order and place a new one at the lower price. He tells me it will ship in 2 weeks.

My lamp hours is at 8839. Thats alot of TV :D

I work from home, my set gets turned on about 10 am and doesnt usually go off till midnight. And to be perfectly honest. Im ordering another lamp just to have it here when its really due for replacement. The picture still looks fantastic after all these hours in only 3 years time.

Is there a focus adjustment on the HLPs?

Alvin

Is there a focus adjustment on the HLPs?

Alvin

There is a mechanical adjustment if you partially disassemble the set. It is not a trivial task to tune. It also requires a mirror or a second person so you can "see" how you're effecting the image from behind the set.

Focus is usually one thing Samsung gets right at the factory. It is a wobulated set so pixels have fuzzy edges by design. Are you sure you need to adjust this?

- Collin

There is a mechanical adjustment if you partially disassemble the set. It is not a trivial task to tune. It also requires a mirror or a second person so you can "see" how you're effecting the image from behind the set.

Focus is usually one thing Samsung gets right at the factory. It is a wobulated set so pixels have fuzzy edges by design. Are you sure you need to adjust this?

- Collin

My set looks blurry on all content (HD Comcast via DVI at 720p/1080i) and via OPPO 970HD HDMI. Not extremely so but just slightly. HD content is not crisp and less than "soft". DNIE is off, actuator tuned, Index delay tuned w/I1 Pro for max x on red (no spectral SW), gamma 0, H and V sharpness 7, greyscale and CCA tuned per your banding procedure using CAlman and Getgray. Colors and greyscale are excellent. I know this set has cinema smooth wobulation thus not the sharpness of other chips but I really believe something is wrong with it. It could also be that I am comparing it to my 42H82 Toshiba CRT. I would need to see another HLP5063 to compare to really know. I can make whatever adjustment necessary. I just realize this set does not have a focus ring like previous and current models. I have the service manual and there is nothing on focus in the alignment section.

Alvin

My set looks blurry on all content (HD Comcast via DVI at 720p/1080i) and via OPPO 970HD HDMI. Not extremely so but just slightly. HD content is not crisp and less than "soft". DNIE is off, actuator tuned, Index delay tuned w/I1 Pro for max x on red (no spectral SW), gamma 0, H and V sharpness 7, greyscale and CCA tuned per your banding procedure using CAlman and Getgray. Colors and greyscale are excellent. I know this set has cinema smooth wobulation thus not the sharpness of other chips but I really believe something is wrong with it. It could also be that I am comparing it to my 42H82 Toshiba CRT. I would need to see another HLP5063 to compare to really know. I can make whatever adjustment necessary. I just realize this set does not have a focus ring like previous and current models. I have the service manual and there is nothing on focus in the alignment section.

Alvin

No focus ring, eh? Well that would be a problem. Perhaps I gave you some bad info. I have only done the focus procedure on one set and it was not a 5063W. I think it was a 50" HLR of some sort. So are we certain there's no focus ring on this set? It's absence from the service manual is not necessarily conclusive. There's got to be a way they tune focus on these things at the factory. Their manufacturing process just isn't precise enough to not need a focus adjustment.

I would expect your wobulated set to look rather similar to a CRT in terms of sharpness. Both technologies create fuzzy pixels, or more precisely they both have a gausian spot profile. One sanity check you can do is go into the service menu and turn of the SP Actuator, which turns off wobulation. The raw pixel structure should become visible at close distances. If this isn't a grid of pretty sharp diamonds you probably really do have a focus problem.

- Collin

No focus ring, eh? Well that would be a problem. Perhaps I gave you some bad info. I have only done the focus procedure on one set and it was not a 5063W. I think it was a 50" HLR of some sort. So are we certain there's no focus ring on this set? It's absence from the service manual is not necessarily conclusive. There's got to be a way they tune focus on these things at the factory. Their manufacturing process just isn't precise enough to not need a focus adjustment.

I would expect your wobulated set to look rather similar to a CRT in terms of sharpness. Both technologies create fuzzy pixels, or more precisely they both have a gausian spot profile. One sanity check you can do is go into the service menu and turn of the SP Actuator, which turns off wobulation. The raw pixel structure should become visible at close distances. If this isn't a grid of pretty sharp diamonds you probably really do have a focus problem.

- Collin

Not in the usual location, if at all. I have looked for it on the light engine near the lens and there is no ring. Has anyone else seen the light engine on the HLPs?

I took your advice and turned the actuator off in the service menu. I was able to see the diamond grid structure up close but it was not sharp. I have no idea how they focus this model.

Alvin

Is there anyway to force the set to only accept RGB over HDMI? My set was calibrated using an RGB source and when my HD DVD or Blu-Ray player are hooked up using the HDMI input it gets a 422 YCbCr (or 444 YCbCr ) signal. This causes the colors to be a little off and I was wandering if I could force the HDMI input on the TV to only accept RGB. When the players are hooked up to the DVI port everything is fine but, there is only one DVI and I have 2 players (trying to avoid using a switch).

I have an HLP6163W and the lamp recently went out. It is under extended warranty but they don't have the bulb, said it will be around 3 weeks but admitted it could be shorter or longer.

I searched all over the internet and called Samsung. Apparently this bulb is under national back-order and none are available anyplace - spent 3 hours surfing the internet and phoning around with no success.

The bulb comes in a housing (cage) that replaces as a unit. The original part was BP96-00608A and the current replacement is the BP96-00826a

I found someone on Ebay that sells the bulb only, and not the housing, or cage. (I found this doing a search under the bulb part number.) I decided to try one for the original part - since that is the housing/cage that I have. This place is in Chicago so I drove there (around 40 miles) and picked it up. The $139 cost is a little lower than the lowest price I've seen for the complete replacement part with cage.

It was easy to replace the bulb in the cage - took about 15 minuites since I was very careful. Many could probably do it quicker than that. Only tool needed was a Phillips Screwdriver. TV now works fine.

The replacement part under the extended warranty should arrive in a few weeks and I'll store it, or the one I just fixed, as a spare for the next time as it will likely be out of warranty by the next burn out.

What was the name of the place in Chicago, if you don't mind me asking?


This place is in Chicago so I drove there (around 40 miles) and picked it up. The $139 cost is a little lower than the lowest price I've seen for the complete replacement part with cage.

.

What was the name of the place in Chicago, if you don't mind me asking?

Kennedy Webster Electric
On Jefferson a few blocks fom Union Station

I have a 3 year old HLP5063w,5000 hours on bulb.I now see intermittent horizontal,colored lines on the right third of the screen.I've tried switching from hmdi to component,Dish to dvd ,the problem is still there. Any ideas ?

I have a 3 year old HLP5063w,5000 hours on bulb.I now see intermittent horizontal,colored lines on the right third of the screen.I've tried switching from hmdi to component,Dish to dvd ,the problem is still there. Any ideas ?

Does it look like this? Id like to know what this is a symptom of if anyone can help.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e69/18609693/DSC00523.jpg

I'll start looking through the 801 posts here to see if there's an answer, but just in case someone is kind enough to help me out, I really need assistance troubleshooting my HLP5663W since it is out of warranty and I can't currently afford an expensive service call.

Here are the symptoms:
1) Upon powering on, lamp light flashes and unit begins to power up
2) Typically the color wheel makes lots of noise spinning up and down (this is the replaced color wheel w/ improved bearings unlike the original it came with)
3) Eventually it either just blanks out completely or I get 3 blinking lights
4) Sometimes I can actually get a picture, but it begins to get "garbled" with digital noise, images flicker across the screen etc....then I get a black screen again
I've even seen one time where the screen came up w/ black and white stripes.

Steps I've taken:
1) Removed back cover, all looks well but cleaned w/ compressed air w/ vacuum nearby anyway
2) Removed and looked @ lamp...looks good
3) Removed and looked @ ballast...looks good
4) Cleaned rear lamp fan
5) Replaced lamp, ballast, taped down switch and turned on
a) lamp lights....(makes me think ballast and lamp are both good)
b) still hearing color wheel spinning up and down (weird since I've never heard this before)

Any ideas are greatly appreciated. I don't want to blindly buy a lamp right now and find out it doesn't resolve the issue.

TIA!!

Ok, a moment ago I had it powered up with nothing but a 3-4" horizontal white stripe across the screen. On the right hand side, several of the mirrors of the DMD were off so there were black diamonds in the white stripe.

This leads me to belive either a) the DMD is bad or b) some controller that controlls the DMD, color wheel, etc is goofy. I'm leaning toward the latter, but I really don't know what the heck I'm talking about.

For the heck of it, I took the Light Engine out.....didn't see anything obvious, but I didn't expose the color wheel either (although I did look at the DMD....shiny!!)


Oh, and in the beginning, and again just now, I had audio but not picture. Eventually it seems the audio gets jacked as well (out of sync I assume....using HDMI for input)

I'll start looking through the 801 posts here to see if there's an answer, but just in case someone is kind enough to help me out, I really need assistance troubleshooting my HLP5663W since it is out of warranty and I can't currently afford an expensive service call.

Here are the symptoms:
1) Upon powering on, lamp light flashes and unit begins to power up
2) Typically the color wheel makes lots of noise spinning up and down (this is the replaced color wheel w/ improved bearings unlike the original it came with)
3) Eventually it either just blanks out completely or I get 3 blinking lights
4) Sometimes I can actually get a picture, but it begins to get "garbled" with digital noise, images flicker across the screen etc....then I get a black screen again
I've even seen one time where the screen came up w/ black and white stripes.

Steps I've taken:
1) Removed back cover, all looks well but cleaned w/ compressed air w/ vacuum nearby anyway
2) Removed and looked @ lamp...looks good
3) Removed and looked @ ballast...looks good
4) Cleaned rear lamp fan
5) Replaced lamp, ballast, taped down switch and turned on
a) lamp lights....(makes me think ballast and lamp are both good)
b) still hearing color wheel spinning up and down (weird since I've never heard this before)

Any ideas are greatly appreciated. I don't want to blindly buy a lamp right now and find out it doesn't resolve the issue.

TIA!!

The service manual has the following to say about the three blinking lights indicator. Grammar and spelling errors are from the manual.

If the 3 LED indicators flicker from the time the set is turned on, it means:
1. The CN602 connector on the DMD board is not inserted properly.
2. The DVI cable that connects the DIGITAL board to the DMD board is not connected properly.
3. If the lamp does not turn on even after turning it on three times, by powering off/on 15 second intervals:
1) The B+ 260V power is not supplied to the ballast (The cable is not connected properly between the power and the ballast.)
2) The cable connected to the CN109 terminal on the DMD board and the CN2 terminal on the ballast is short-circuited or not connected.
3) The lamp does not turn on because 5V has not been supplied to blue pin #1 on the CN2 terminal of the ballast.
4) 5V is supplied to the CN3 terminal of the ballast but the lamp does not turn on because the ballast has a failure. (If the lamp is replaced and 5V is supplied normally to the CN3, suspect a ballast failure if the lamp still does not turn on.)
5) The ballast is normal but the lamp doest not turn on. (When 5V is supplied to CN2 and 385V to CN1, but the lamp does not turn on, try replacing the lamp. If it turns on, that means it was a lamp failure.)
4. The color wheel engaged to the engine does not operate, or the connector which indicates the operation of the color wheel is not connected properly, and therefore does not allow the lamp to turn on. The causes can be determined when the set still does not turn on after attempting to turn it on three times.
5. Another digital board or the DMD board has a failure. Conclusively, if the three LED indicators flicker, first check the above five items, then check the various connector connections, and then suspect a failure of the lamp or the ballast.

So does this help? Probably not. Sounds like the 3 lights mean, a ballast failure, a lamp failure, a color wheel failure, a digital board failure, a DMD board failure or a connector failure. It seems that the diagnostic steps are essentially replace stuff until it works.

Note also that they're talking about 260-385V in there. Be very careful even if the set has been unplugged.

- Collin

Our HLP5063 is about thirty months old now. I'm having it cleaned next week which will be the first time I've used the extended warranty. I'll let you all know what they do to and for it. :cool:

Our HLP5063 is about thirty months old now. I'm having it cleaned next week which will be the first time I've used the extended warranty. I'll let you all know what they do to and for it. :cool:

Are you still on the original lamp? How many hrs? Bill

Are you still on the original lamp? How many hrs? BillI just checked (original lamp), and it's 3005 hours. We lead a fast and dangerous life style. :rolleyes:

Our HT upgrade got started this week. I found a Denon 3806 AVR. Now I'm looking for a good home for the h/k (see below).

My 4663 had 9,102 hours on the original lamp when i changed it out this past March. I actually think I changed it out too early.

Our HLP5063 is about thirty months old now. I'm having it cleaned next week which will be the first time I've used the extended warranty. I'll let you all know what they do to and for it. :cool:

My 5063 is almost 36 months old. And in the last few days, while on, it has suddenly powered off, then on but not enough to display a picture, then off again, then on, etc. until I pulled the plug. After a while, it stayed on. But then this happened a second time. Very intermittent.

Question I have for you is why are you having yours cleaned? And what do you mean by cleaned? Just vacuumed out like a previous poster mentioned? And how did you get the warranty folks to do this? Sounds great if they will do it, but it sounds like it's more of a PM maybe we all should take advantage of if we have the extended warranty.

I've got 4000 hrs on my lamp and bought the 4-year extended warranty with Repair Master that I got when I bought mine thru the AVS deal with TVAuthority. I was going to call them tonight to schedule a service visit but I may just pull the lamp case and put the hose to it.

Interested to hear your reply and hear about your experience with the service guys.

Cheers...jce

My 5063 is almost 36 months old. And in the last few days, while on, it has suddenly powered off, then on but not enough to display a picture, then off again, then on, etc. until I pulled the plug. After a while, it stayed on. But then this happened a second time. Very intermittent.I have very little technical knowledge, but it seems possible that one problem you might be having is that the lamp is having a problem striking. I'm sure there could be other reasons for similar behavior.

Question I have for you is why are you having yours cleaned?I'm assuming that our set has a lot of dirt in the light path. There is no indication that there is anything more than an even coating of dust and grunge from our California air. I'm very interested to see if it makes an overall improvement in the picture quality.

And what do you mean by cleaned?The main mirror and the lense of lens cover is what I expect. I'll watch and report. It will be done next Wednesday.

And how did you get the warranty folks to do this?My extended warranty is directly with our dealer -- Magnolia Audio-Video. That's not to be confused with Magnolia departments in BB stores. Their four year warranty includes replacing one lamp and doing periodic maintenance. Cleaning the interior is one maintenance option to keep the set performing at it's original standard.

Sounds great if they will do it, but it sounds like it's more of a PM maybe we all should take advantage of if we have the extended warranty.Some extended warranties cover only failed parts that are not user replaceable.

I've got 4000 hrs on my lamp and bought the 4-year extended warranty with Repair Master that I got when I bought mine thru the AVS deal with TVAuthority. I was going to call them tonight to schedule a service visit but I may just pull the lamp case and put the hose to it.I would call Repair Master. ;)

Interested to hear your reply and hear about your experience with the service guys.Sure.

I am having similar problems to what I have seen. I had 3 blinking lights, Samsung told me it was the lamp, ordered and replaced last night. Now when I turn it on, I get sound right away, but the picture does not come on. The set powers up and down several times by itself. Sometimes this ends with a picture finally coming on and sometimes not. When I do get a picture, it lasts anywhere from a minute or 2 to about an hour and then it goes off again (sound still on) At this point the set will not respond to the remote at all and needs to be unplugged. I have had the set for about 2-1/2 years. What steps can I take to try and remedy this? I saw someone talk about cleaning, but it doesn't really seem full of dust or anything back there. I saw someone else saying something about a switch, is the the little blue toggle switch by the door? I have it pushed down (by sliding the panel cover on it from above) and I even tried taping it down, same problems. If this is a ballast problem, I don't have any problem trying to swap that out, but I don't want to buy the part if it's not it. Any suggestions?

We had our extended warranty service visit today. Tom checked the mirror and the lens for dirt. The mirror was clean enough, but he cleaned the lens with a microfiber cloth. He also replaced the lamp because the set was still too dim for good daytime viewing.

Our old lamp has 3025 hours on it. Tom left it for us to use as a backup lamp. It's still bright enough for good viewing in the evening.

After Tom left I returned all the User settings to the values that our professional calibration produced two years ago. We will probably have the set calibrated again because there have been two changes in the inputs we use, and the new lamp is sure to have different color values.

The set looks fine now, and cleaning the lens is a snap.

I cleaned the lens on mine a few weeks ago. Living here in the Arizona desert, it had gradually gotten pretty bad.

I was shocked at the change it made.

I was shocked at the change it made.Ours wasn't dirty enough to make a big difference.

Well, replaced the ballast, same problems. It just amazes me that a 2-1/2 year old TV will have this many problems.....any one run into anything similar? Any suggestions?

I would call Repair Master. ;)

Sure.

Yup, now the set will not light the screen, ever. Called Repair Master. They said that if a tech comes out, diagnosis it as a bad lamp, he will leave and charge $90 for the visit, without swapping out the lamp. RM SR says that "Consumables are not covered". I said "Where is this written in the exclusions section of the paperwork I have. RM: "Paragraph 2..." I say "Don't got that paperwork."......

Ultimately, RM says "It sounds like the lamp". I say fine, hangup and order a new lamp from samsungparts.com. Hopefully, that will do it. Will let you know.

Anyone replaced there lamp in a 5063W yet. I have a new lamp and can't get it all the way in for the life of me. I've pushed it as far as I can but the screw on the lamp will not screw in (like it is not close enough yet). It has just a millimeter more to go but I can't get it and I'm pushing so hard the whole TV has slide an inch on the stand. Any suggestions?


EDIT: Never mind, I finally got it in.

Anyone replaced there lamp in a 5063W yet. I have a new lamp and can't get it all the way in for the life of me. I've pushed it as far as I can but the screw on the lamp will not screw in (like it is not close enough yet). It has just a millimeter more to go but I can't get it and I'm pushing so hard the whole TV has slide an inch on the stand. Any suggestions?

If its like my 4663, you gotta sort of wiggle it as your pushing the lamp in. I can tell you that if the securing screw isnt tightening, then the lamp isnt seated properly or completely. Unless of course by chance you have the wrong lamp. Which is probably doubtful.

When you think you have the new lamp pushed all the way in, and the screw still isnt tightening, try and wiggle the lamp up and down and side to side. There wont be much play in its movement if i remember correctly but, once it finds its seating, youll know it.

Thanks shuttermaker,

I finally got the screw to start going in and it pulled the lamp in the rest of the way. TV is know on and everything seems to be working right.

I'm amazed at how much brighter the TV looks now. I knew the old lamp had gotten dimmer but didn't realize by how much.

I could really use some help now. The TV was shutting on and off and they replaced the DMD board along with DLP engine. Well, seems to be running fine but the picture is pretty crappy. By that I mean that the blacks look AWFUL. Not sure what to do. any help at all is appreciated!

bTW I have a HLP5663

bTW I have a HLP5663What are your inputs and how are they connected?

Has anyone ever seen the artifacts shown in post #801 ? Id really like to get some sense of what im dealing with before I call out a service tech.

What are your inputs and how are they connected?

Well this all started after the DLP engine and DMD board were replaced yesterday. I am running my hd dvd via hdmi and the cable via a cable line. That is about it.

Not sure what happened. called up and they are scheduling to come out and look at it AGAIN. this has been ongoing for seven bloody months. And no replacement issued yet. ARGH.

My HD movies look horrible. the blacks are disgustingly bad. HD looks worse than VHS. Regular cable is bad. I checked the firmware and i believe it is 1040 now.

I am running my hd dvd via hdmi and the cable via a cable line.I have some calibration suggestions that you can try, but I think you should wait until after your TV is checked again.

You don't seem to have HDTV. Is that right?

Do you have a cable STB?

Start pressuring Samsung for a replacement. A few years ago I was able to get my original HLN replaced with the HLP model I have now. On the second service call I asked Samsung how many repairs will I have to go through before they replace the TV and I was told usually around 3 (kinda a 3 strikes your out thing). Well, it wasn't long before something else went wrong and a tech was on his way for the third service call. Everything was fine for about a month until the light engine crapped out, I reminded Samsung about the 3 strikes thing I was told about and they replaced the TV. My overall experience with Samsung customer service was a good one. The service calls were all handled quickly and there was no hassle when they replaced the TV. Haven't had a single problem with the HLP. If you continue to have problems just start asking Samsung about a replacement, I'm sure they'll work something out for you if the TV is still under warranty.

long story short is that the issue of it shutting down has been going on for sometime. All of a sudden that seems fixed and now the tv colors are bad. Not sure how far samsung will go now. It was out of warranty but since the first service place did not fix it, they extended the warranty till june so it could be fixed. now another prob, but samsung said that the place I got it from should take care of it. Should i pressure them and call to speak to upper management?

And another thing, the place I got it from is willing to let me get a Samsung HLS5679 i think...56 inch 1080p led for another 600 to them. And they will deliver it to me. I paid 1000 for the hlp...should i consider that?

I don't have HDTV and won't until this thing works completely. I had it for like 3 days and then issues and I wasn't paying to not use it. I have digital cable through comcast. never had the color issue until the DMD and DLP engine were replaced yesterday.

or he said hls5687. considering depreciation on mine and the conditiion...I guess it is a good price? I mean worht the trade?

or he said hls5687. considering depreciation on mine and the conditiion...I guess it is a good price? I mean worht the trade?If the HL-S5687 is new and comes with a full warranty then I would take it as a trade. :D

been debating between the hls5687 and 5679...hmm

We had our extended warranty service visit today. Tom checked the mirror and the lens for dirt. The mirror was clean enough, but he cleaned the lens with a microfiber cloth. He also replaced the lamp because the set was still too dim for good daytime viewing.

Our old lamp has 3025 hours on it. Tom left it for us to use as a backup lamp. It's still bright enough for good viewing in the evening.

After Tom left I returned all the User settings to the values that our professional calibration produced two years ago. We will probably have the set calibrated again because there have been two changes in the inputs we use, and the new lamp is sure to have different color values.

The set looks fine now, and cleaning the lens is a snap.

So HT,

Did the cleaning and bulb replacement make daytime viewing for you better? I've already replaced the bulb in my HLP, but my daytime viewing is still really dim (one of the reasons I'm considering the HLT).

Ross

Did the cleaning and bulb replacement make daytime viewing for you better?Yes but I'm not sure cleaning made that much difference.

I've already replaced the bulb in my HLP, but my daytime viewing is still really dim (one of the reasons I'm considering the HLT).It's easy to clean if you use a clean microfiber cloth. Just remove the access port on the right side as you face the TV. The little cover is just snapped in. It's covering a screw that you have to remove. You can look up at the mirror or down at the lense.

Yes but I'm not sure cleaning made that much difference.

It's easy to clean if you use a clean microfiber cloth. Just remove the access port on the right side as you face the TV. The little cover is just snapped in. It's covering a screw that you have to remove. You can look up at the mirror or down at the lense.

HA! Totally forgot about that access port. Just popped it open and gave a quick look. Both the mirror and the lens look clean, so I didn't bother with it.

Now here's a crazy thinking...remember back when many of us had the screen issues? Well I was one of them and had to have my screen replaced (sometime last year, which is about the time I've started noticing the dimness). I'm assuming there is an external side and internal side to the screen, so my question to everyone is: how could you tell if your screen was installed incorrectly? Could that even lend to dimness (here's my thought - if the internal side is installed as the external side, then it may be letting more light into the interior of the TV; of course that does assume there are differences and one of those deals with light). This could me just not really knowing anything about screens though. So feel free to smack me around and educate me on the subject.

Dimness is the only issue though. No blurriness, etc.

Ross

I have the HLP6163W. I have an XBox 360 and a Wii plugged into my component inputs. Occasionally, when using the Xbox, the display will blink in and out. If I bring up the XBox menu, it stops and is solid. Go back into the game and it blinks again. Most if the time, it works fine.

The Wii used to work fine, but now is unusable. Same problem as the 360, but constant instead of intermittent. Although, like the 360, if I hit the "Home" button and bring up the overlay menu, it works. Soon as I go out of that menu into anything else, it starts blinking again. The HDMI and DVI ports have no issues.

Since menus and games may be at different resolutions, I have a feeling there is a problem somewhere in the D/A conversion at certain resolutions.

Anyone ever seen this? Any idea how much it would cost to fix? I hesitate to put $500+ into a 3 year old 720p system.

Thanks.

I have the HLP6163W. I have an XBox 360 and a Wii plugged into my component inputs. Occasionally, when using the Xbox, the display will blink in and out. If I bring up the XBox menu, it stops and is solid. Go back into the game and it blinks again. Most if the time, it works fine.

The Wii used to work fine, but now is unusable. Same problem as the 360, but constant instead of intermittent. Although, like the 360, if I hit the "Home" button and bring up the overlay menu, it works. Soon as I go out of that menu into anything else, it starts blinking again. The HDMI and DVI ports have no issues.

Since menus and games may be at different resolutions, I have a feeling there is a problem somewhere in the D/A conversion at certain resolutions.

Anyone ever seen this? Any idea how much it would cost to fix? I hesitate to put $500+ into a 3 year old 720p system.

Thanks.

Vandalay - I have never seen this with my 360 or Xbox (v1) game devices (or my STB or DVD players). Just to be sure how are they connected? Are they devices connected directly to the TV or through a receiver? If a receiver I would remove that from the equation and see if that makes a difference.

Vandalay - I have never seen this with my 360 or Xbox (v1) game devices (or my STB or DVD players). Just to be sure how are they connected? Are they devices connected directly to the TV or through a receiver? If a receiver I would remove that from the equation and see if that makes a difference.

No receiver in the path, they are plugged into the TV's component inputs.

I'm hoping I'm on the right thread... I need your help guys. :(

I have a HL-R6167WX/XAA. Since about a week ago, red bands started to appear on top of the TV screen, and sometimes the pictures would freeze. Now when I turn the TV on, some fussy pictures show up with some sound at first and both picture and sound shut off, leaving me dark screen with no sound. At that point I cannot control the TV neither with the remote nor the buttons on the TV. It would not even turn off. I have to pull the power cord out to get it to turn off. When I turn it back on, only the LAMP light is flashing.

What is wrong with my TV? Does it require a new LAMP? I thought I read somewhere that all three LED lights need to be flashing for it to indicate Lamp replacement.

Could anyone please help me??

I'm hoping I'm on the right thread... I need your help guys. :(

I have a HL-R6167WX/XAA. Since about a week ago, red bands started to appear on top of the TV screen, and sometimes the pictures would freeze. Now when I turn the TV on, some fussy pictures show up with some sound at first and both picture and sound shut off, leaving me dark screen with no sound. At that point I cannot control the TV neither with the remote nor the buttons on the TV. It would not even turn off. I have to pull the power cord out to get it to turn off. When I turn it back on, only the LAMP light is flashing.

What is wrong with my TV? Does it require a new LAMP? I thought I read somewhere that all three LED lights need to be flashing for it to indicate Lamp replacement.

Could anyone please help me??You are in the 2004 HL-P thread. Here is a better choice for you.

Samsung HLRxx67W Owners Thread --- 720p DLP HDTV (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=537675)

From 6-22-07
My 5063 is almost 36 months old. And in the last few days, while on, it has suddenly powered off, then on but not enough to display a picture, then off again, then on, etc. until I pulled the plug. After a while, it stayed on. But then this happened a second time. Very intermittent.

Question I have for you is why are you having yours cleaned? And what do you mean by cleaned? Just vacuumed out like a previous poster mentioned? And how did you get the warranty folks to do this? Sounds great if they will do it, but it sounds like it's more of a PM maybe we all should take advantage of if we have the extended warranty.

I've got 4000 hrs on my lamp and bought the 4-year extended warranty with Repair Master that I got when I bought mine thru the AVS deal with TVAuthority. I was going to call them tonight to schedule a service visit but I may just pull the lamp case and put the hose to it.

Interested to hear your reply and hear about your experience with the service guys.

Cheers...jce

So here's my 1 month saga on getting my set fixed (what a fiasco!):

1. Call RepairMaster, splain the situation. They say "Sounds like the lamp. The lamp is not covered by the warranty since it is a 'consumable'. If we dispatch a tech and it is the lamp, we'll have to charge you for the service call at $95 and you will still have to get a lamp." I say, OK, I'll get a lamp. Good to have a spare if that's not it.

2. Go online to samsungparts.com and order the lamp. $150 plus $12 S/H. Get it 2 days later (I'm near there distribution point.)

3. Put the new lamp in, same deal: no picture, only sound and the set reboots until I pull the plug.

4. Call RepairMaster again, tell them to dispatch a tech (I got in-home repair). They assign my case to Superior Electronics in Bellmore, L.I. 2 days later a tech shows up, checks it out, calls the shop, shop calls RepairMaster and they say let's try the ballast (cheapest thing to try first).

5. 5 days later, tech show up with the ballast, puts it in, same deal. They ask if they can take set back to the shop. At this point, I say "Take it!"

6. Shop calls RepairMaster and they authorize replacement of the Light Engine; big ticket item, at least $750. Shop places order with Samsung, confirming my model and the correct replacement part. Shop said that there were questions on the exact replacement part but were convinced that they ordered the correct one. I ask Shop if new LE will include a new lamp, hoping I can return the lamp I bought. Said they would check. Never got back to me on this.

7. 5 days later, box arrives with the ordered p/n on the box but inside was a different Light Engine!!!! Tech put it in the set and it worked but he said that it didn't look like it was the right engine. Shop calls Samsung and says WTF! Samsung says they will ship another engine.

8. 5 days later, the second LE arrives, a correct p/n. Tech puts it in and voila!

9. 2 days later, techs deliver set back home, says the new LE includes a new lamp and everthing is beautiful. But I'm down my set and Tivo recordings (HR10-250) for a 5 weeks and it cost me $161 (OK, I got a spare lamp out of it)!

Lessons Learned:

A. If you have RepairMaster as your warranty agent, your agreement probably does not cover lamps. Be prepared for that.

B. If you are on L.I., stay clear of Superior Electronics. From my experience, it sounds like a mom-and-pop shop. CSR sounds like a 18-year old kid who barely finished high school.

C. When you buy a set like this, spend the extra dough on an extended warranty. When I bought the set, the price was $2,900 and the warranty was only $300 for an extra 4 years. More than paid for itself on this little adventure.

Cheers...jce

Tonight I got black lines running vertically from top to bottom about an inch apart on my HLP5063. Doesn't matter the input, so must be the set. I tried to do a search of this thread but didn't have any luck (maybe used the wrong terms). Has anyone seen this and what would be the cause?

I called RepairMaster and they are making me call some outfit all they way across the country. I have a feeling I'm in for a long haul.

I just replaced the lamp in my 5063 (it had 7453 hours) and the strangest thing is happening. When I plugged the TV back into the outlet, it turns on without hitting the power switch. Once it's on, none of the buttons on the front or side panel or the remote work. I was able to get into the Service Menu using the remote, but I was not able to use the remote to reset the lamp time back to zero. I tried several times unplugging the unit and leaving it unplugged for 30 minutes or more and the same things happens. I even tried getting into the Service Menu while the TV was on using the Power Mute 1 8 3 Power button to no avail. I can't even use any of the buttons on the actual TV to change channels or turn the TV off. The remote batteries are fine because I can see the light lights up when I hit a button on the remote.

Thanks for any help in advance,

John

Got a question for you more knowledgeable folks.

I just bought the VGA cable for the Xbox 360 and have run into a small problem. I set the 360 to the 1280x720 resolution but I can see these faint pulsating or flickering horizontal lines or noise. It is most noticeable over darker areas but somewhat visible all the time. Turning Digital NR on (on the TV) makes it go away until you move the camera around in a game (like zoom in to line up a putt in Tiger Woods). The manual for the Samsung HL-P5063W says that the VGA inputs optimum setting is 1024x768 but, isn't that a 4x3 resolution? Why would a 4x3 resolution be the optimum setting for a 16x9 display? Anyone know away to get rid of this flickering? The image looks great other then the flickering, better then component, so I hope I can fix this. What do the coarse and fine settings do on the HLP?

I know this has been probably posted before - but I couldn't locate it here. There was just tooo much info. So if anyone can help me....

Tv turns off ramdonly - I can turn it right back on, takes a few secons but it will come back on.

They're seems to be NO pattern to this what-so-ever.

hlp6163 - had for 2+ yrs - never changed or fixed anything. picture still looks great _ of course very dark screens are hard to make out ( i noticed some ideas to fix this) bt if anyone can't point me to posts that refer to a specific solution, that would be great - there is SOOOO much info in this thread.

so 2 questions - HELP ME GTE MY TV FROM SHUTTING OFF!! pls!!

other - fix dark dark screens, make them look better.

thanks to all in advance!!

Dan

Tv turns off ramdonly - I can turn it right back on, takes a few secons but it will come back on.First off it's very hard on the lamp when you turn if off and then right back on again. I realize that it's not you turning the set off, but you should at least wait for the set to complete it's cool down period.

hlp6163 - had for 2+ yrs - never changed or fixed anything. picture still looks great _ of course very dark screens are hard to make outYou probably need a new lamp and a service call for "power off" problem.

Our HL-P5063 got a new lamp a couple of months ago because it was starting to get dark. If you get your set repaired then you might want to buy a calibration disk which will help you set contrast and brightness better.

( i noticed some ideas to fix this) bt if anyone can't point me to posts that refer to a specific solution, that would be greatThere is a lamp access door on the bottom right side of the back of your set. If you open that door you should see a safety switch that makes sure the power to the set is off when the panel is removed.

Sometimes that switch is not making good contact even when the door is cosed. It's worth a try.

This link is some of what you are looking for.

Click Here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=10505741&postcount=804)

My buddy has the 50" Samsung DLP and here is his settings
mode: dynamic
color tone: normal
size: wide
digital NR: off
dnie: on
size: wide
digital NR: off
dnie: on
dynamic settings:
contrast 100
brightness 45
sharpness 78
color: 70
tint 0

Further on my picture issue -

What is happening after viewing normal for about fifteen minutes is the picture will 'sieze up' -
in that it displays a smattering of white-only pixels of a portion of
what was just on the screen -

Audio is normal from any source -

Any comments are welcome -
I find this week I am having the same problem, on a 5063 that was purchased in June, 2004. BB is coming 9/26 to fix it. Thank God I bought the extended service plan. I'll let you all know what I find out.

So my Samy (HLP5063W) and I have been in a very happy relationship for almost 3 years now.... until a progressively loud humming noise developed from the back of the unit. At first I was able to mask it by turning up the volume, but it got progressively worse. I did a little research on this forum and found that a lot of owners had run into a problem with a defective color wheel.... However, since I was fortunate enough to have bought the extended warranty, I had them take the unit and diagnose the problem. To my dismay, the technicians determined that it was a defective light engine... However, this is where my story takes a plunge. According to the repair facility (Samsung Authorized), Samsung no longer makes the light engine for this particular model. Therefore, the warranty company will either replace the unit or pay me fair market value for the unit. This sounds a bit odd to me. So it's been almost a month and still no TV back. Worst of all, they had to ship the TV back to the Warranty company's HQ in order to verify that it is truly the case. So what a unit replacement or fair market refund means to me, I have no idea...

Needless to say, this is definitely something I did not see coming. Have any of you had this problem?

How can Samsung stop making a pretty integral piece to a pretty popular selling unit?

I just got the light engine in my 5063 replaced last week. It took a month to get the warranty work done. I'd call Samsung direct, it doesn't seem you are getting accurate info.

Sounds like a dodge to me. BB replaced my light engine and digital board with new parts just last week, which by the way was the cure to my frozen image / white pixel problem. Lesson taken away: ALWAYS BUY THE EXTENDED WARRANTY. I expect my 5063 will now last another 2-3 years. The contention that they are no longer manufacturing the replacement parts may be true, but I am reasonably certain that they can obtain replacements. If BB could get both light engine and d-board in less than a week, why can't they?

darkburst and justjohnny,

Thanks for the quick response. I will get in contact with Samsung and inquire on this issue. It just seemed really odd to me.

So my Samy (HLP5063W) and I have been in a very happy relationship for almost 3 years now.... until a progressively loud humming noise developed from the back of the unit. At first I was able to mask it by turning up the volume, but it got progressively worse. I did a little research on this forum and found that a lot of owners had run into a problem with a defective color wheel.... However, since I was fortunate enough to have bought the extended warranty, I had them take the unit and diagnose the problem. To my dismay, the technicians determined that it was a defective light engine... However, this is where my story takes a plunge. According to the repair facility (Samsung Authorized), Samsung no longer makes the light engine for this particular model. Therefore, the warranty company will either replace the unit or pay me fair market value for the unit. This sounds a bit odd to me. So it's been almost a month and still no TV back. Worst of all, they had to ship the TV back to the Warranty company's HQ in order to verify that it is truly the case. So what a unit replacement or fair market refund means to me, I have no idea...

Needless to say, this is definitely something I did not see coming. Have any of you had this problem?

How can Samsung stop making a pretty integral piece to a pretty popular selling unit?

samsungparts.com has what I believe is the light engine in stock. It just happens to cost more than buying one of these sets on the used market. That's probably the math your warranty folks did and then gave you the story about the light engine no longer being produced.

- Collin

I tried searching the thread, but figured it would be easier to just ask:
What is the code to get into the service menu to check the lamp hours?
Thanks

Found what I needed (3784 hours)

My light engine was replaced in 2005 shortly after purchase(HLP5063W). Lamp and ballast replaced Feb this year. Sept 8th got the 3 lights of death for the third time. Called BB (extended warranty), tech came out Sept 20th. Light engine needs replaced. They ordered parts on 21st. This ship date on the parts has changed 4 times. I called samsungparts.com. The person told me that the light engine is on backorder, Samsung has had issues with these boards and they were not sure if Samsung was going to ever make or ship these boards again. In the mean time I am going into HD withdrawls. I have been fighting with BB to give me the in-store credit so I can replace it. They keep saying that I have to wait 45 days from the date the tech came to the house. I've even escallated the problem with the manager at the store I purchased it from and he felt it should be replaced and sent recommendation but the result was still the same. The part according to BB is due to ship 10/31/2007 (trick or treat... I think trick is he key). Every time it gets within 3 days of the ship date it moves out another 7 days. I think BB is just giving me the runaround. I have spent 45 days looking at a broken piece of ----. I think Samsung knows there is an issue with these TV's and they are not able to fix it and by not supplying new parts they are forcing people to update to later technology or newer versions. I better have an in store credit on Nov 4th. My opinion on this TV is... Great TV and picture (except for rainbow effect)...when it is working. Total of 6 months down time since purchase. Not very reliable in my book. At least BB hasn't outsourced their service department personel to India...yet!

I just replaced my HLP4663W 's bulb; I bought it from http://www.discount-merchant.com/.

No problems installing it, but the weird thing is my picture is visibly DIMMER than before! I have no idea what could be wrong. Does anyone have any clues as to what I could've done wrong in the installation?

Did I order the wrong bulb? Is there a difference between:

http://www.discount-merchant.com/Samsung-HLM437W1X-OEM-Replacement-LAMP-BULB-p/samsung-hlp4663w-lamp-sm.htm

and

http://www.discount-merchant.com/Samsung-HLP4663WX-OEM-Replacement-LAMP-BULB-p/samsung-hlp4663wx-lamp-oem.htm

?

Looks like I ordered the HLP4663WX bulb but I have no idea if that's different than the HLP4663W bulb, and according to my manual I have the latter TV.

I'm at a loss here, I have no idea why my picture is much dimmer.

I just replaced my HLP4663W 's bulb; I bought it from http://www.discount-merchant.com/.

No problems installing it, but the weird thing is my picture is visibly DIMMER than before! I have no idea what could be wrong. Does anyone have any clues as to what I could've done wrong in the installation?

Did I order the wrong bulb? Is there a difference between:

http://www.discount-merchant.com/Samsung-HLM437W1X-OEM-Replacement-LAMP-BULB-p/samsung-hlp4663w-lamp-sm.htm

and

http://www.discount-merchant.com/Samsung-HLP4663WX-OEM-Replacement-LAMP-BULB-p/samsung-hlp4663wx-lamp-oem.htm

?

Looks like I ordered the HLP4663WX bulb but I have no idea if that's different than the HLP4663W bulb, and according to my manual I have the latter TV.

I'm at a loss here, I have no idea why my picture is much dimmer.

This is a TOTAL shot in the dark here but, maybe there is a burn in time for the bulb and that it will be brighter after a few hours use. Even though I offer this as a suggestion, I too have the HLP4663WX and after replacing my bulb, I experienced no dimming of the picture.

Im still having issues with the PQ on my 4663. This is a picture of the artifacts im seeing on screen. Can anyone diagnose this problem?


http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e69/18609693/DSC00523.jpg

What's a FrayLo?

I have a 5063 purchased in 2004, got the extended warranty from Tweeter. I originally calibrated the set with my DVE disc. I recently had the bulb and color wheel replaced, and now dark scenes look AWFUL. For instance, the scenes in Batman Begins in The Narrows, when the pipes are bursting and people are moving about in the dark, the picture is so bad the darks and lights look almost reversed! Even my 6 year old son asked what was the matter with the TV.

Has anyone else experienced this? I'm wondering if I need to have the set looked at again, or even contact Samsung.

Edit: Firmware version is 1040

Edit: Fixed! The tech never adjusted the index delay setting in the SM. Picture looks as nice as the day I took it home!

I just replaced my ballast last week, it didn't fix the problem but the procedure was very straight forward and easy to do. Just make sure you note where the connectors go before you disassemble it.

I have to tell ya, I'm getting nervous about my 5063W. I'm starting to notice a high pitched whine noise coming from the TV which leads me to believe the color wheel is going bad. My TV is covered by an extended warranty until 2009 so, the color wheel going bad isn't what has me nervous. The fact that these TVs seem to need servicing every few years is what has me worried. What happens when my warranty runs out, I don't have the money to buy a brand new HDTV every 5 years just because the older one craps out.

I guess it really is true, they just don't make them like they use too. I'm calling a service tech tomorrow to try and nip this whine noise in the butt before it gets really bad but, if this happens again in 2 years I'll be out of luck. Either have to deal with the noise, try to fix it myself or toss it to the curb and go back to my 10 year old SDTV that still works great. Just ashame that it appears these TVs weren't made to last longer. Hopefully I'm worry about nothing and once this problem is fixed it will work perfectly for years to come.

I just had the color wheel replaced in my HLP 6163W on 11/16/07 (the unit is about three years old, and yes, I did get the extended warranty). When the tech replaced the color wheel, all the colors were off (instead of the menu background being blue it was a muddy rust color). The tech called Samsung and discovered that the color wheel has one of two types of bearings, an air bearing or a fluid bearing. If the color wheel has a fluid bearing, there is a jumper that has to be removed from the DMD board that will give you the proper color scheme.

However, since the wheel was replaced the picture quality is terrible in dark scenes. There appears to be a distortion in the color on blacks, greens and fleshtones (almost like a flaring or macroblocking effect).

Any one know what could be causing this? Is there something I can do to correct this or do I need to call the techs back in (I would really like to avoid this because my experience was not good with the repair company that PC Richards sent out).

I saw that a previous message referred to the "index delay setting." Would adjusting this correct the problem? If so, how do I adjust it?

Thank you in advance for any help.

Thanks for scaring me to death Watchman. Sounds like the color wheel replacement is going to destroy my ISF calibration and I can't afford to have it recalibrate right now. This is BS IMO, the TV is not even 3 years old and shouldn't need new parts already. Talk about poor build quality on Samsungs part IMO. It's pathetic that a TV can't last 3 years without needing repair, if this is the way the industry is going (trying to get you to buy a new TV every few years) then maybe I should start reading more.

Hello. I've had my 5063 since 2-05 and it has been working perfectly until tonight. I turned the power on and nothing happened, then I heard a high pitched scratching (color wheel I'm guessing) followed by the three blinking lights. The BB warranty isn't up until 09 so I'm calling to set up an appointment with the repair guy tomorrow. It has never been worked on before and I was wondering if there is anything I should know before they come and fix it? From reading others post it seems like a month is not out of the norm to get it up and running again. Is this true?? I hope it doesn't take that long and will update. Makes me feel stupid after convincing my parents and friends on DLP and Samsung tech. I don't want to play guitar hero on my CRT....

I have a 5063 purchased in 2004, got the extended warranty from Tweeter. I originally calibrated the set with my DVE disc. I recently had the bulb and color wheel replaced, and now dark scenes look AWFUL. For instance, the scenes in Batman Begins in The Narrows, when the pipes are bursting and people are moving about in the dark, the picture is so bad the darks and lights look almost reversed! Even my 6 year old son asked what was the matter with the TV.

Has anyone else experienced this? I'm wondering if I need to have the set looked at again, or even contact Samsung.

Edit: Firmware version is 1040

Edit: Fixed! The tech never adjusted the index delay setting in the SM. Picture looks as nice as the day I took it home!


My TV is experiencing the very same issue. But, i have a question. How do you adjust the index delay setting? Please respond. These dark colors are driving me crazy

My TV is experiencing the very same issue. But, i have a question. How do you adjust the index delay setting? Please respond. These dark colors are driving me crazy

I doubt your problem is with the color wheel delay. The problem is far more likely to be grayscale tracking, which you really need a calibrator with fancy tools to come in and fix. A skilled individual could do it by eye with some sort of reference white (D65 bulb shined on a gray card for instance), but that's quite a tall order particularly if you have no experience in such matters to be able to know what looks about right. I'm sure you can dig up posts on grayscale calibration here on AVS if you're really determined to embark on such an adventure.

To answer the immediate question however you adjust the index delay until a primary red test pattern is "most red" (The service manual's words not mine). You can get it in the ballpark by eye, but you really need a spectro to set it exactly. The delay controls the timing between the color wheel and the mirrors. If it's not exact some of the other primary colors will bleed into your primaries. For instance red will get a little bit of green or blue thereby changing the tint slightly. This moves your primaries around making them less accurate, but has little to do with dark tracking which is a common problem with the factory calibrations on many of these digital sets.

For what it's worth, I have never seen a Samsung DLP who's index delay setting from the factory was not essentially perfect. On the other hand I've rarely seen a Samsung DLP from the factory that has had anywhere close to proper grayscale tracking.

- Collin

I doubt your problem is with the color wheel delay. The problem is far more likely to be grayscale tracking, which you really need a calibrator with fancy tools to come in and fix. A skilled individual could do it by eye with some sort of reference white (D65 bulb shined on a gray card for instance), but that's quite a tall order particularly if you have no experience in such matters to be able to know what looks about right. I'm sure you can dig up posts on grayscale calibration here on AVS if you're really determined to embark on such an adventure.

To answer the immediate question however you adjust the index delay until a primary red test pattern is "most red" (The service manual's words not mine). You can get it in the ballpark by eye, but you really need a spectro to set it exactly. The delay controls the timing between the color wheel and the mirrors. If it's not exact some of the other primary colors will bleed into your primaries. For instance red will get a little bit of green or blue thereby changing the tint slightly. This moves your primaries around making them less accurate, but has little to do with dark tracking which is a common problem with the factory calibrations on many of these digital sets.

For what it's worth, I have never seen a Samsung DLP who's index delay setting from the factory was not essentially perfect. On the other hand I've rarely seen a Samsung DLP from the factory that has had anywhere close to proper grayscale tracking.

- Collin

What would you suggest I do? My TV is still under full warranty. Basically its the dark blacks, greens....they appear shaded and just dont look right. Some shows and movies look just fine, but the ones (most of) the shows have alot of dark tones to them. It is almost painful to watch, knowing i paid over 4k for a television that isn't working at all like it did before i had my lamp and color wheel changed out.

Thanks in Advance.

What would you suggest I do? My TV is still under full warranty. Basically its the dark blacks, greens....they appear shaded and just dont look right. Some shows and movies look just fine, but the ones (most of) the shows have alot of dark tones to them. It is almost painful to watch, knowing i paid over 4k for a television that isn't working at all like it did before i had my lamp and color wheel changed out.

Thanks in Advance.

Not sure what to advise. It's a tall order to try to fix it yourself, though if you're determined you could probably do it. A professional calibrator could almost certainly make it look great, but I doubt you want to pay for that. It sounds like you need to complain to Samsung or the Techs who "fixed" your set. Maybe VinnySem has some advice about how he got his set fixed finally.

- Collin

i just replaced my CW in my 5063

now i have 2 brighter spots about 3inch diameter only visible when very dark
they are side by side, same size, and overlapping about 50%
they are near the bottom center of the screen.

completely not visible when there is a image displayed thats not very dark. thanks in advance.

Ok, newbie here. Need some help with my HLP5063. I bought it in August 2006, firmware 1033. Already had to replace the bulb, as it was a floor model, bought at a store closing sale from CompUSA. Bulb was replaced in December 2006, after a loud crashing and cracking noise and then the typical no power on problems then 3 blinking lights. The samsung engineer who helped with this sent me a new lamp, but not the specific model lamp I had, as he stated they no longer made it. I don't have the box for the new one anymore, so I don't know it's model. But I went from a rather larger (about 3" diameter) lamp to a much smaller one (about 1.5" diameter bulb).

Since then, the picture has been darker and much more grainy. Also, since then, we've had a very high pitched whine/whirring noise on the TV that is very loud and noticeable anywhere in the room, aside from directly in front of the TV. Directly in front the sound seems to not be present. To me, the sound doesn't seem much different than the normal projection CRT whirr, other than quite a bit louder.

Also, in the last 3 weeks, for at least the first 45 minutes of power on, there is a much louder hum coming from the back of the set, in the general area of the access panel.

Any of this normal? I'd assume from reading the posts in here that the darkness is a known issue that possibly a good calibration could fix. Are either of those noises potentially actual problems?

Ok, newbie here. Need some help with my HLP5063. I bought it in August 2006, firmware 1033. Already had to replace the bulb, as it was a floor model, bought at a store closing sale from CompUSA. Bulb was replaced in December 2006, after a loud crashing and cracking noise and then the typical no power on problems then 3 blinking lights. The samsung engineer who helped with this sent me a new lamp, but not the specific model lamp I had, as he stated they no longer made it. I don't have the box for the new one anymore, so I don't know it's model. But I went from a rather larger (about 3" diameter) lamp to a much smaller one (about 1.5" diameter bulb).

Since then, the picture has been darker and much more grainy. Also, since then, we've had a very high pitched whine/whirring noise on the TV that is very loud and noticeable anywhere in the room, aside from directly in front of the TV. Directly in front the sound seems to not be present. To me, the sound doesn't seem much different than the normal projection CRT whirr, other than quite a bit louder.

Also, in the last 3 weeks, for at least the first 45 minutes of power on, there is a much louder hum coming from the back of the set, in the general area of the access panel.

Any of this normal? I'd assume from reading the posts in here that the darkness is a known issue that possibly a good calibration could fix. Are either of those noises potentially actual problems?

sounds like the color wheel to me. Mine starts spinning and you can hear it scraping. Then the the 3BL start up. I haven't heard of the newer bulbs being dimmer. Hope that isn't true since they are pretty cheap now. Oh well it's getting replaced Jan 5. No more open box TVs for me!!

Hope somebody could help me with my Samsung 4663. The yellows displayed through my cable box (component) are lime-green but my dvd and Bluray/Ps3(hdmi)'s colors are perfect.

Also when watching HD channels on cable there is a louder background interference noise as opposed to SD.Should I switch to DVI to fix this?

I have the HL-P5063W and I've been having the random power off issue for about 4 weeks now. Sometimes the set will turn off 3 times in a single hour, sometimes I'll go several hours with only a single power off. I haven't really seen any solutions in this thread other than to call Samsung Support and get a repair guy out. My set is 3 years old and I believe out of warranty at this point. For any others who've experienced this issue (or are familiar with it), would you mind telling me how much you paid to fix the problem? If it's cost prohibitive, I'd rather just buy a new TV.

Thanks in advance.

Question for those of you unfortunate enough to have experienced a color wheel failure;

My HLP5063W started making a noise on power down tonight but, other then that seems to work fine. The noise it makes sounds like a baseball card stuck in a bicycles spokes when I turn the TV off. It starts out fast and slows down until whatever is spinning stops (I'm guessing the color wheel). Is this an early sign that my color is about to fail? I stuck my head behind the TV and the noise does seem to come from the area around the lamp.

Question for those of you unfortunate enough to have experienced a color wheel failure;

My HLP5063W started making a noise on power down tonight but, other then that seems to work fine. The noise it makes sounds like a baseball card stuck in a bicycles spokes when I turn the TV off. It starts out fast and slows down until whatever is spinning stops (I'm guessing the color wheel). Is this an early sign that my color is about to fail? I stuck my head behind the TV and the noise does seem to come from the area around the lamp.
There are only 2 moving parts in there: Color wheel and the fan for the lamp. I replaced my color wheel about 6 weeks ago. My noise changed depending on the speed of the wheel (spin up and spin down). It got much worse over time.

Initially, I was able to distinguish between the CW and the fan by listening closely when turning off the TV. The fan spins longer at power off than the color wheel spins. I could still hear the fan after the louder noise went away.

It took about a month for my color wheel to arrive after I ordered it. I would suggest figuring out if it is the CW and getting it on order. The repair isn't too hard. Good luck!

Is the conventional wisdom when replacing the color wheel to change the CCA values to match the sticker that came with the replacement color wheel?

Also, am I correct to assume "Lv" on the sticker the same as "Y" in the service menu?

Thanks,
Doug

I have the HL-P5063W and I've been having the random power off issue for about 4 weeks now. Sometimes the set will turn off 3 times in a single hour, sometimes I'll go several hours with only a single power off.


Well, I checked the service menu and saw I had 5500 hours on my lamp, so I figured it might need to be replaced. Although I wasn't seeing the 3 flashing lights on the front like some have suggested, this seemed like a plausible explanation.

I installed the lamp and have had the TV running for a total of 12 hours or so. All seems well and no random turnoffs.

If anyone else is experiencing random turnoffs, I recommend replacing the lamp.

I have a P5063W purchased 8/04. New lamp a few months ago. But!

Never been satisfied with the brightness and color saturation as compared with my '94 el cheapo Panasonic 21" CRT.

No longer relevent!

I was watching my HLP5063 tonight, when I heard a crack, and the picture went black ,but the audio was still working. I pulled out the bulb and it was shattered , not sure how many hours are on it, it may be a new record, the set was bought in 3/04. I am out of warranty, so I will be ordering a new bulb.
Now when I looked at the part to order the same # the site says it is discontinued, and offeres a different #, has there been a reason for this discontinue? Have there been any issues with this part , as it is not the original? ve read a few posts, and it sounds like there have been issues when replacing the bulb...

I don't know about any issues with the old part # but the new one works fine. I replaced my bulb about 6 months ago and have had no problems with it. The new one is slightly smaller then the old # and that's the only difference I can see.

So the new bulb just slides right in with no issues, and your picture was just fine?
Ive been reading others who have posted about the brightness being poor after replacing the bulb. Sounds like you had no issues, I would expect the picture to be improved after dropping in a new bulb, did you notice?

I've started noticing a weird, very faint shadow on the right side of the screen starting in each corner and moving to the center. It is only visible on very bright colors and when the camera pans fast, even then it is barely visible. They are also only visible from the seating position, you can't see them if you move close to the screen. I've search AVS and the internet but can't find any explanation for them. I've post a photo of them below while my TV is displaying a white screen. Chance are you will not be able to see them on your PC monitor, I can barely make them out. I used Photoshop to draw boxes around where the are. The shadows converge near the middle of the screen making a triangle. Remember this is only visible with bright colors on the screen and when the camera pans or moves fast (I then see them out of the corner of my eye and it is distracting). Any ideas?

I can notice them (in this image) better if I stand a few feet behind my monitor.

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd207/RollTide1017/100_2536copy.jpg

Just replaced my bulb, the picture is back to its days of old!
Cant believe I had 12,464 hours on that bulb. Got some age outta that one.
I almost ordered a bulb in advance, a few years back, but never wanted to shell out the cash, glad I didnt , at that time the bulb was over $200. Now they are $149

I have new problem with my HLP5663. On video with a bright white screen (or nearly all white) on either component input, I lose sync. When the picture source changes, it comes back. Anyone seen this problem before? I have tried two different sources and same problem. There is no switching equipment between the source and the HLP. Help!

Thanks.

dengland,

This is a shot in the dark based on issues I've had with other, non-DLP, sets I have owned in the past. Usually, a loss of sync like this when a bright or mostly white screen appears is due to the power supply being on it's last legs. White requires the highest amount of power from the power supply, at least for a CRT, so it might also require the same for a DLP, though I'm not sure that's true. Either way, my first guess would be power supply.

Regards,
Jeff

dengland,

This is a shot in the dark based on issues I've had with other, non-DLP, sets I have owned in the past. Usually, a loss of sync like this when a bright or mostly white screen appears is due to the power supply being on it's last legs. White requires the highest amount of power from the power supply, at least for a CRT, so it might also require the same for a DLP, though I'm not sure that's true. Either way, my first guess would be power supply.

Regards,
Jeff

Thanks Iceblade. That was a thought I had too, but I think I talked myself out of it. I am just not sure if it holds up to what I think is going on inside the set. For white, the mirrors have to move in and out of position for each of the 3 colors. Low power stuff, I would think.

However, on the input cables, I think voltages would be at peak values on each of the R, G, B inputs when white is called for. I don't know if there is some inter-relation there or not.

I own the HL-P6163W I bought it back in November of 2004 and I have 5668 hours on the lamp and everything is working but the picture seems dull, is there a big picture improvement with installing a fresh bulb?

I can only speak for my own set, but it made a world of difference, I mean like night and day.

If your picture mode is already on dynamic, and it still seems dull, I would consider a new bulb.

I have the HLP 5663 with total of approx 6500 hours. Just ordered a replacement lamp from samsungparts.com. Will install it and keep the old one as a spare. Hopefully see the same improvement others have noted here. I haven't been as wowed lately with the picture as when the TV was new. Looking forward to seeing a difference. Price sure has dropped from a year or so ago!

Well while I am waiting for my new bulb, I bought a Toshiba hd dvd player A2 back in November for 98$ and I had it hooked up to my HL-P6163W via HMDI however last night I hooked it up through the componet cables and I noticed a nice improvement in the picture. anyone have info as to why that would be even my wife noticed the difference in picture quality we were watching Transformers in HD-DVD.

Well, my color wheel has been on back order for almost a month now and the noise finally got unbearable a few days ago. I'm now stuck watching a old little 14" TV. It's so much fun watching HD channels in glorious 480i. The 14" TV looks funny sitting in front of my 50".

What surprises me is that the tech shop says that the color wheel is on a nationwide backorder. I knew color wheels going bad was a common problem but had no idea it was that common. You think they could come up with a new design that would fail as often. Better yet, Samsung should redesign our light engine and add the 3 LED lights to it! The new target date for the color wheel's arrival is Feb. 4th, keeping my fingers crossed even though that date has been moved back twice in the past month.

so i had my CW and Lamp replace yesterday and now my tv looks terrible. best buy came buy did his thing, check to see if the tv works then left....parts he put in was BP96-00674A and BP96-00826A. does anyone know the default setting of the 1035 SM. my tv btw is hl p5063w.

I have a 5063 purchased in 2004, got the extended warranty from Tweeter. I originally calibrated the set with my DVE disc. I recently had the bulb and color wheel replaced, and now dark scenes look AWFUL. For instance, the scenes in Batman Begins in The Narrows, when the pipes are bursting and people are moving about in the dark, the picture is so bad the darks and lights look almost reversed! Even my 6 year old son asked what was the matter with the TV.

Has anyone else experienced this? I'm wondering if I need to have the set looked at again, or even contact Samsung.

Edit: Firmware version is 1040

Edit: Fixed! The tech never adjusted the index delay setting in the SM. Picture looks as nice as the day I took it home!

i think im having the same problem as you. but the only difference is mine is 1035. what did he set the index delay setting at?

Well while I am waiting for my new bulb, I bought a Toshiba hd dvd player A2 back in November for 98$ and I had it hooked up to my HL-P6163W via HMDI however last night I hooked it up through the componet cables and I noticed a nice improvement in the picture. anyone have info as to why that would be even my wife noticed the difference in picture quality we were watching Transformers in HD-DVD.

The digital inputs should look a tad sharper and have a bit less visible noise than component.

The digital and component inputs are calibrated separately. If you've never had your set professionally calibrated you may just be noticing that on your set the component inputs had a better factory calibration than the digital inputs.

If it looks like color reproduction is more accurate I could possibly explain that. This set has a color matrix error when processing HD YCbCr over HDMI. SD YCbCr signals are fine. The bug is that it interprets 709 YCbCr as 601 YCbCr leading to a green depression. The workaround is to set your player to RGB if possible or use the DVI or component inputs.

- Collin

i think im having the same problem as you. but the only difference is mine is 1035. what did he set the index delay setting at?

ironchef - Did you get your problem resolved? It doesn't really matter what someone else has as an index delay. You need to adjust it for your set. When you are in the index delay setting screen, there will be a bar across the bottom of the screen. The index delay needs to be set such that the bar is red. If you cannot get it red by adjusting the index delay (up or down) the jumper may be wrong that tells the set if it is an air bearing color wheel or non-air bearing color wheel installed. If you are still have problems, report back and I will find the link to the instructions....

Dengland yes. it did fix my issue. the BB guy that installed my new lamp and CW didnt set it correctly. he set it at 42. i went in and change it to around 54 to get the best red i could get and it worked.. awesome.. i do have a minor problem with green though. like sometimes white color would have some sort of green hue on it.. i think when the BB tech came in and tried to messed with the setting he didnt know what he was doing so some were a bit off. i tried matching the values to the excell worksheet they had in the first page to maybe get the right color fix but the lates firmware in the spreadsheet was 1033, mine is 1035 :(

Feb. 4th came and went, still no color wheel (remains on a nationwide backorder). What is the deal Samsung, is every HLP color wheel in the nation failing right now? My extended warranty company is actually checking to see if they can get it quicker the the repair shop and if they can't they said they would just replace the TV with a newer model of equal or greater value! Keeping my fingers crossed that they can't find a color wheel because now I want a new TV out of it. Hoping to land one of the LED Samsung's. We'll see what they say hopefully early this week.

UPDATE (if anyone cares to know): My extended warranty company informed me today that they will be replacing my TV because they couldn't find a color wheel as well. In 3 to 5 business days they will give me an offer of a model they think is appropriate, if I do not like it they will send a check for the value that they would have spent on the new TV. I requested that they consider the Samsung LED models HL-T5087S or HL-T5089S. I have nothing against the HLP series and think it is a great TV but, the idea that I'm about to get a new TV that will most likely be 1080p is exciting. Anyone that tries to say that extended warranties are a waste have no clue. If I didn't have one I would be waiting for a color wheel for who knows how long (still at least a month backorder on samsungparts.com).

My HLP5063WX/XAA was given to me a month ago. Replaced the bulb, worked out the demons and everything is fine. Never really thought about the green light flashing three times on power up but it is doing that. Makes me wonder if I installed the light wrong. The tv works great but now I'm getting fan noise or color wheel noise or whatever the heck it is. When I push on the panel that covers the light housing that was replaced the noise either becomes more obvious or it will go away.....So does this mean I have the light installed incorrectly? Also on power up and power down when the whatever speeds up or slows down it makes a clicking noise till it gets up to speed. Might seem obvious to some but figured I would ask.

Zinc,

Sounds like a color wheel going bad. When mine started going bad it made a clicking noise when it powered up or down (mine actually started sounding like a baseball card in a bicycle spoke). Eventually the noise would happen all the time and was as loud as a vacuum. Don't know if you are under warranty or anything but, good luck getting a color wheel. They have been on a nation wide backorder since at least the beginning of the year (which is when mine failed). Read my post above for more of my story.

Thats baseball card in the spoke is a great analogy Roll....Thanks for the heartbreak.:p

For anyone who is interested, attached is an updated HLP service menu spreadsheet which has two tabs in it - (1) Firmware 1035 and (2) Firmware 1013 (the version I had b/f my digital board was upgraded). The rows shaded in light green indicate new options in 1035 that weren't present in 1013 (there were no options in 1013 that were removed from 1035 but a few were moved around slightly within a given menu).

The only settings I fiddled with were the V-Position, H-Position and Gamma (all in DDP1011).

Having my set calibrated next week so I wanted to make sure I recorded everything beforehand.

Eric
Eric, thanks for this file...

I came looking for info on vertical position, as it seems my picture (HLP5063W) is shifting downward on my DVI input... Which is where my TS360 is connected. [edit] Or maybe it's my composite... Not 100% sure at the moment.

The shift down seems most noticeable on a SD pictures, as I can clearly see text getting cut off at the bottom. I have not scrutinized it enough on all inputs, as I really only notice it under this condition.

I'm also curious as to why my VGA input does not fill the screen? I only recently attached a computer, and find this annoying. Are there horizontal and vertical size settings as well? I did not see this in your spreadsheet?

Lastly, I've NEVER messed with the service menu (and I'm still looking through tis thread), but are there any warnings or tips one should be aware of?

Thanks,

Eric

Well, I checked the service menu and saw I had 5500 hours on my lamp, so I figured it might need to be replaced. Although I wasn't seeing the 3 flashing lights on the front like some have suggested, this seemed like a plausible explanation.

I installed the lamp and have had the TV running for a total of 12 hours or so. All seems well and no random turnoffs.

If anyone else is experiencing random turnoffs, I recommend replacing the lamp.

After about a month I'm starting to get the random turnoffs again. It's not nearly as frequent as it was before, but I'm thinking it's going to get more and more frequent.

Because it stopped for a month after I replaced the lamp, could it have something to do with the lamp or the housing? Something related to it in some way shape or form....to make the random turnoffs go away for a month. Any ideas?

I hate to put another couple of thousand into a TV, but considering I haven't had a color wheel problem (yet) and this problem could require a technician to come out I think it would probably be a smarter idea financially to just buy another TV. Gotta say, I'm a little disappointed.

Just to advise as to lamp life. I've had my set since Dec. 2004 and use it as both home theater, tv set and computer screen. Needless to say it gets a lot of use.

I just checked and I've got 12,300 hours on my lamp. I've ordered a replacement out of prudence but I think I'll just shelf it (after testing to ensure it works) until the present bulb goes. My set is in a controlled-light environment but it still looks good to me.

It seems that these lamps are like other bulbs: a lot of variability as to length of usable life. Some on this forum swapped out at 4500 hours. I just wanted y'all to know that some of us are getting a lot longer than that out of our bulbs.

Hi, I'm brand new here, and found forum through a search. What I'm trying to find out may be kind of odd. I have an HLP-5063, and want to know if there is any way to disable the inabilty of this TV to switch to the HDMI input until it detests a signal? The reason I ask is beacuse I just got a Hamony One remote, and part of the 'watch DVD2 activity' is for it to switch to the HDMI input for my Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player. It won't switch until it detects it, and that takes about 30 seconds.......until the Toshiba boots up. I could set the delay to 30 seconds for the tv to turn on, but it would do that in all the activities, and that is ridiculous. If there is no way to do it, it's not the end of the world to manually do it with the remote after the player boots up, but it's the only thing the remote isn't doing by itself, and it's beyond it's control, so thought I'd try to find a way. I'm assuming it would be in the service menu, if at all possible, and I'll be honest......never been in there, but if it was a case of just being very careful and following straightforward instructions, I'd most likely go for it. Well, there you have it. Any feedback appreciated. Thanks!

if there is any way to disable the inabilty of this TV to switch to the HDMI input until it detests a signal? The reason I ask is beacuse I just got a Hamony One remote, and part of the 'watch DVD2 activity' is for it to switch to the HDMI input for my Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player. It won't switch until it detects it, and that takes about 30 seconds.......until the Toshiba boots up. I could set the delay to 30 seconds for the tv to turn on...

I had an HD-A2 connected to 5663 via HDMI until about 2 weeks ago and did not have this problem with a Harmony 520. Mine worked fine. The TV would switch to HDMI input and say "waiting for signal" (or something like that) until the HD-A2 booted up. Are you using a direct code to select HDMI?

When I switched to a 6187SAX, my set up behaves like yours does. Until I read your post, I thought the problem was a "new feature" with my new set. Now I think my problem is with the remote setup. I am confident it can be made to work like you want it. When I figure out my problem, I will post what I find.

Are you using a direct code to select HDMI?



You lost me with that one.....sorry.When I set up the Harmony One, it just asked me which input this player uses for this activity, and I told it HDMI. Yeah, mine simply won't switch until it detects it.......strange setup. I appreciate your feedback!

So my tv (HLP5063w) has been randomly turning off for the last few months. i ordered a new bulb and it came in today. the thing is that it does not fit. the original bulb had been discontinued and this was the replacement part. It slides into place but it will not allow me to screw it in place.

If i take out the new bulb and put in the old one the tv works no problem other thna randomly powering off. I verified that this is the correct replacement bulb. Any ideas on what could be the issue? i have listed the part #'s below.

new lamp - bp96-00826a
old lamp - bp96-00608a

So my tv (HLP5063w) has been randomly turning off for the last few months. i ordered a new bulb and it came in today. the thing is that it does not fit. the original bulb had been discontinued and this was the replacement part. It slides into place but it will not allow me to screw it in place.

If i take out the new bulb and put in the old one the tv works no problem other thna randomly powering off. I verified that this is the correct replacement bulb. Any ideas on what could be the issue? i have listed the part #'s below.

new lamp - bp96-00826a
old lamp - bp96-00608a
826a is the correct bulb. It takes some force and wiggling to get it to slide into place. Keep trying.

let me clarify a few things. I am almost to the point of sending the bulb back and having them send me another one.

when i am putting the new bulb in it slides right into place. there is a special groove that is on the lamp housing that ensures that it is being inserted correctly. I can slide the bulb all the way in but i am unable to attach the screw. There are 3 holes in the housing of the lamp that line up with the tv. There are 2 guides in the outermost holes and the screw goes into the middle. on the old bulb the guides go through the holes and i am able to attach the screw. On the new lamp the guides are lined up put they are not going to through the holes. it is approximately 1/4 inch away from being flush and allowing the screw to hold it in place.

I have pushed pretty hard, enough that i had to have someone hold the tv to keep it in place, and it will not go any further. i have also tried wiggling the bulb as i insert it into the grooves and it will slide easily and then stop. i can hear it making contact with something inside the TV when it stops.


Once again i almost to the point of having the lamp replaced to see if there is just something wrong with the one i have. Has anyone heard of any issues with this replacement bulb and the model TV i have?

i appreciate the help.

I had the same issue...the sound you are hearing is the plug housing butting against each other the bulb will need to slide further back only about a quarter of an inch more. After it does, the screw threads will make contact with the screw hole. Push and wiggle as the previous poster has said. Try as if you are attempting to wiggle the new bulb in a counter clockwise motion as you are pushing.

let me clarify a few things. I am almost to the point of sending the bulb back and having them send me another one.


I just replaced my bulb for the very same reason you mentioned. FYI, the new bulb doesn't fit quite as perfect into the housing as the previous model did. I wasn't able to screw my bulb in either. However, it's in and my set turns on. I pushed until I couldn't push no more then replaced the cover.

Also, the random turnoffs went away for me for about a month, but have since returned. They are not nearly as frequent as they were before, but I still have them. Once you get your bulb installed, keep in touch with this thread as I'd like to hear if it fixes your random turn off problems.

thanks for the responses.

i am unable to replace the cover as the bulb is not in all the way. i will be trying again this afternoon. i will let everyone know the outcome. i appreciate the help.

A piece of information that I forgot ....

When I replaced my bulb in the 5663, I had the entire back cover off since I was replacing a bad color wheel at the same time. That may have allowed me to wiggle more (in all directions) than you are able to. (although I think it was apply pressure on the left side, then right, then left then right motion). I could not get it in by trying to push straight in.)

If you get desperate, you could remove the actual bulb from the enclosure (cage) it is in and use the old cage since that slides in better.

I checked the back-up bulb I ordered and it too took a bit more work to get in than the original. I too could not get the screw to thread in but to my eye the screw seemed a bit... bent. But the lamp seated well, the back cover went on and the bulb worked fine. It's now sitting back in its box on the shelf.

My thought was that if my old bulb goes I'll replace the bent screw in the new lamp with the straight screw from the old one. Any body try this yet?

I tried again to install the new lamp and i am happy to say that i was successful.

What eventually worked was to put the new lamp in place. then i used the door and pressed on the outside of the door and it went in a little further. after a few tries it went in all the way and i was able to attach the screw. i reattached the door and it works like a champ. i am watching the basketball game as i type.

i appreciate the help everyone. i will keep an eye out for the random power offs and will report back if i have any issues with that.

Hello,

Fairly new here, but have found the information in this thread to be most helpful for my Sammy 5063. I was having problems where the screen would simply blank out when switching video sources and stop accepting input from the remote (not even the power button on the set). I would have to unplug the set, wait a while, then plug in to get things working again. I've replaced the bulb a few months ago which seemed to fix the situation.

I'm now having the symptoms return along with a problem when powering on the set. If I turn the set on, it will do it's usual "chime", have the Lamp light flash at me, watch the display flip from black to a greenish black, and then power off on its own. Once powered off, it will power on again and repeat the cycle. If I let it go (15-30 minutes) it has eventually displayed the video signal and would operate fine until I turn it off (not switching video source).

Last night, it never displayed a video signal. Couldn't see the on-screen menu. Unplugged the set and let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Tried again, and still had no picture (with the set looping the power on/off).

Could it be that I got a bad bulb, or would it be something more like the light engine needing replacement?

I purchased the set in June 2004 from Best Buy w/ a 3 year extended warranty (which would have then run out last year). The components connected to it are: Sony DVD (component), X-Box (component), OPPO HM-31 switch (HDMI) that has my cable box and Apple TV.

Any advice would be appreciated!

Anybody?

Any advice would be appreciated!

You might try removing and reinserting the bulb. Make sure it is inserted completely. Others have reported difficulty inserting a new bulb completely.

Hello,

Fairly new here, but have found the information in this thread to be most helpful for my Sammy 5063. I was having problems where the screen would simply blank out when switching video sources and stop accepting input from the remote (not even the power button on the set). I would have to unplug the set, wait a while, then plug in to get things working again. I've replaced the bulb a few months ago which seemed to fix the situation.

I'm now having the symptoms return along with a problem when powering on the set. If I turn the set on, it will do it's usual "chime", have the Lamp light flash at me, watch the display flip from black to a greenish black, and then power off on its own. Once powered off, it will power on again and repeat the cycle. If I let it go (15-30 minutes) it has eventually displayed the video signal and would operate fine until I turn it off (not switching video source).

Last night, it never displayed a video signal. Couldn't see the on-screen menu. Unplugged the set and let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Tried again, and still had no picture (with the set looping the power on/off).

Could it be that I got a bad bulb, or would it be something more like the light engine needing replacement?

Sorry, I did not read this close enough when I saw it yesterday....

I sold my 5663 to my neighbor recently. It had a very new color wheel and lamp. I got a call last week saying there was no picture on the set. Thinking ... damn, the new lamp could not have crapped out already... I took the old lamp (11K plus hours) and tried that and still no picture. The TV was looping on/off as you described above. Also, the TV was not responding to the remote or front panel buttons. Thinking it may be the ballast, I ordered a new one. The part arrived last night, but I have not had a chance to install it yet. The install may not happen before this weekend. (I am having trouble lining up schedules).

I will report back sucess/failure when I try the part.

I will also ask my neighbor to try powering up the set now that it has been unplugged for an extended period of time to see if it works for awhile like yours did.

If you don't want to wait, here is the link to what I ordered:

http://www.partstore.com/Part/Samsung/Samsung/HLP5663WX/Samsung/Samsung/BP9600690A/New.aspx

I placed the order on 4/15 and had the part on 4/21.

You might try removing and reinserting the bulb. Make sure it is inserted completely. Others have reported difficulty inserting a new bulb completely.

When first inserting the replacement bulb, I noticed that the two holes for the guide pins were too small and causing the bulb to not slide in and connect properly. I was able to very slightly widen the two holes which allowed the bulb to slide all the way in securely (and screwed in fully). I'll take a look at it again tomorrow.

dengland, thanks for the info! I will wait to hear back from your install to see if that fixes the issue.

First I tried just powering the set on before replacing the Ballast....

No Joy.

Replaced the Ballast .....

No Joy.

I was smart enough to order the Service Manual when I bought the Ballast so I checked a few things. There does not seem to be a comprehensive flowchart, but rather several different charts in no particular order. None of the charts match exactly what I am seeing of course.

It looks like I have >280VDC leaving the power board. However, the power connector for the lamp on the ballast is only outputing 7.5V. I am guessing that might be normal if the set "doesn't want to" turn the lamp on.

One of the troubleshooting steps is checking for the color wheel spinning. I can't really tell if it is... I don't seem to be able to get a good angle. I am thinking about installing the previously failed color wheel to see if anything changes. At least I will be able to tell if that color wheel is spinning since the bearings are shot.

I gave up for awhile in frustration....

Attached is a snapshot of one of the troubleshooting charts in case you are interested.

Placed the previously replaced (11/07) color wheel in the set and the lamp powered on and TV worked fine. No more power cycles. The TV responded to the remote just fine.

Just to see if it was a bad connection, I swapped the color wheels again and the problems came back.

Swapped the color wheels again and the TV works. I am getting really good at replacing color wheels!

I cannot believe that the color wheel failed in 6 months. I hope I can return the ballast for store credit.

Cyberpmg - My suggestion to you is to follow the troubleshooting chart that I uploaded in the previous post. PM me your email address and I will send you a better copy.

Good luck.

Sound like this may be getting over my head. The troubleshooting chart you've posted is quite legible, thanks. I'll try and see if I can notice the color wheel spinning or not.

How difficult is it to replace the color wheel if it does need replacing?

Sound like this may be getting over my head. The troubleshooting chart you've posted is quite legible, thanks. I'll try and see if I can notice the color wheel spinning or not.

How difficult is it to replace the color wheel if it does need replacing?
It is not too bad to replace the color wheel. When I get home I can provide a link to a write-up someone made. It is about 45 minute job if you are very slow and deliberate. I may have some pictures from October 2007 when I 1st opened the set up. I will check.

It is not too bad to replace the color wheel. When I get home I can provide a link to a write-up someone made. It is about 45 minute job if you are very slow and deliberate. I may have some pictures from October 2007 when I 1st opened the set up. I will check.
http://www.jangro.com/a/2006/07/24/samsung-dlp-replace-color-wheel/

Turns out I did not take too many pics. Most were documenting connector locations. Things are pretty clear once you open it up.

Thanks for the info! I'm going to order a new color wheel and then tackle this after I return from a much needed vacation.

Just a quick little update...

Got back from an awesome week in the Carolina mountains. Turned the set on Tuesday to find it working perfectly. No power cycles. Picture came on, and could switch video sources without any problems. Same was true for Wednesday.

Thursday (last night) it did one power cycle and then displayed a picture, but the image was heavily tinted red. I was able to power off via the remote, and then power it on. The picture came back on with proper color. It's obvious that the color wheel is having an issue.

Fortunately, I have a new color wheel waiting to be installed. I have the instructions and will do the install this evening. I'll let everyone know the outcome.

I have a replacement color wheel staring at me too. I will probably get that done this weekend.

My boss just had her ballast replaced by Sears yesterday on her 4663. It was a little over a $200 bill for the part and labor. Her color wheel is making noise on powerdown. She was able put the 4663 on service contract. If she can hold out for 4 weeks, the tech told her she could get the colorwheel replaced by warranty. Supposedly, lamps are included too.

Keep us posted on your install. If you run into problems, post or email me.

Sorry I didn't post this sooner. My cable service went out for a few days. Anyway, I was able to install the new color wheel. Wasn't difficult to do. All plugs were easy to disconnect and reconnect. Used a can of compressed air to get rid of any dust buildup (wasn't really seeing anything).

I also went around to double check all connections were in place (including the lamp). Everything is locked in and tightly secured. Unfortunately, the restarting problems continue. The more I try to run the TV, the longer it takes (more and more power off/on cycles) before I would get a picture. Once I get the picture, it is displayed in perfect clarity and color.

So I've now replaced the lamp and the color wheel. I know that the 2 fans are working (one in back and one to the side), so there's no need to replace those. Do you think the ballast is having the issue? If so, how difficult would that be to replace? I'm thinking that's the last think I can do before looking into replacing any boards.

The ballast is about as easy as the lamp. Once you take the lamp out, the ballast lifts right out. The screws that hold the lamp in, hold the ballast in too. Worst thing is that you need to invest the $80 to find out if that is it. Since the set is coming on, and then going off, it seems like the ballast should be a high probability item.

The partstore.com was very good about taking my ballast back. (I have an RMA and the part is on its way back to to them... hopefully the rest of the process will be smooth).

Thanks for the info. Right now, the $80 investment for the ballast is worth the risk. Off I go to order the part!

I have the HLP5663 for about 3 years and all fine till now. Turned on the set this morning and displays picture but everything is blue !
Turned it off, waited about 5 minutes and turned it on again and now all OK.
Is this the sign if something about to fail (ie.color wheel etc ) ?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks !

I have the HLP5663 for about 3 years and all fine till now. Turned on the set this morning and displays picture but everything is blue !
Turned it off, waited about 5 minutes and turned it on again and now all OK.
Is this the sign if something about to fail (ie.color wheel etc ) ?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks !
Was this with multiple inputs (Component, HDMI, TV, etc) or was this a single input?

There is not a troubleshooting chart in the service manual for a single color output that I saw. So, we are on our own....

One thought would be that the color wheel is not spinning. I am not sure how credible that is since I believe there is a feedback circuit that prevents the lamp from coming on if the colorwheel is not spinning.

Don't get too excited yet (don't order any parts...) until it happens again and you have more data. Keep the folks in the thread posted.

Thanks for the help. Happened with my HD Satellite box, connected by component to my AVR and HDMI out to the TV. Hopefully it's a one-time event !

Update: The ballast arrived yesterday. I was able to successfully replace the ballast in my Sammy. The only little trick I needed to do was to connect the lamp to the ballast before inserting them into position. Otherwise, the connectors were not lining up properly.

I went over everything to ensure all cables were securely connnected. After final assembly, I reconnected the cables and fired up the tv. It went through the regular power cycle 2 times before the video image appeared on screen. The image was brilliant - crisp and full of color. I was able to flip around video sources (cable and Apple TV through a HDMI switch, and my DVD player through component connection).

Life seemed to be good until tonight. Got home and turned on the tv. For over 30 minutes, it was constantly going through the power cycle. The Lamp light would remain flashing while the screen would sometimes show a greenish black or simply black before powering down and back on again.

I unplugged the set and left it unplugged for a few minutes. I plugged it back in to watch it go through the power cycle for about 10 more minutes before the video image finally appeared. From that point in time, I could once again switch between video sources with no problems. The video image was perfect as before.

So I've now replaced the lamp, the color wheel, and the ballast. I believe the replacement of these items has helped to improve the video image (when it works), but has not resolved the problem of the power cycles.

I'm at a loss as to what could be the problem. Once the video image appears, the set will behave perfectly.

It's been a while, so I'd thought I would let you know what's been going on...

I was at a loss on what was causing the issue. I was able to get my hands on a service manual to look through to see if I could possibly pinpoint the problem. Unfortunately, none of the symptons in the service manual matched the conditions of my set.

I have a feeling that the entire light engine and/or the DMD board need replacing. I called up Best Buy service (where I bought it) and found out my extended warranty was still good for one whole month! The 3 year warranty didn't kick in until after the 1 year manufacturer's warranty. :D

The technician came out and saw what was going on. He's placed an order for a new light engine and DMD board to replace in my set. If that doesn't fix the issue (or if the parts don't come in), then they will replace the entire set.

I'm happy that my warranty was still good and can handle these two most expensive items (or full set replacement). Still, it's been very educational to learn about the guts of the set and know what things I'm able to handle on my own.

I'll let you know if the new parts fix the issue or if I have something new altogether.

The 3 year warranty didn't kick in until after the 1 year manufacturer's warranty. :D
That is great news. Too bad you didn't make the call in April! Please keep us posted.

Hello all,

I've been fighting a flaky input problem for months now, but it's getting worse:

I can only get one component input to work and that's only some of the time. Doesn't matter if it's a DVD player or the Wii. It just cuts out to black. Sometimes jiggling the cables at the connection seems to work. It's something loose back there.

None of the Composite inputs work, including the one near the front! That doesn't make sense to me, if it's a loose cable on the rear panel.

Even more weird, the HDMI seems to be rock solid. So, smart me, I picked up a new monoprice HDMI switcher as I could get the STB/DVD/game through one input. Well, it works for about 3 seconds, a color test screen (solid blue) pops up and then the set goes black. This switcher has the newest 1.3 compliance, maybe it's too new for this set?

Finally, I just replaced the color wheel (wow, what a difference!) and am familiar with the service menu, so I'm not afraid to take a look inside. I'd just like some idea of where to target. Nothing looked obvious when I replaced the wheel and I couldn't find anyone with a similar problem on the net.

Any help is appreciated, even if it's to point me somewhere else.

That is great news. Too bad you didn't make the call in April! Please keep us posted.

The light engine was replaced, and now the set is working again. No more power cycles. Video comes on the first time every time.

I was able to save the lamp from my old setup (since it was still new) so I can have it as a backup later.

There is something else I've just noticed. Was playing some movies this weekend (had some Sammy quality time to catch up) and notice that the entire video image has shifted up by an inch or two. When watching a full 16x9 image, I now get a small black bar across the bottom of the screen while the top inch or so of the picture is chopped off.

I'm off to do some searching on if the video image can be adjusted, but if anyone has any ideas, please let me know. If not, I'll call up Best Buy to come back and fix it.

Hello all,

I've been fighting a flaky input problem for months now, but it's getting worse:

I can only get one component input to work and that's only some of the time. Doesn't matter if it's a DVD player or the Wii. It just cuts out to black. Sometimes jiggling the cables at the connection seems to work. It's something loose back there.

None of the Composite inputs work, including the one near the front! That doesn't make sense to me, if it's a loose cable on the rear panel.

Even more weird, the HDMI seems to be rock solid. So, smart me, I picked up a new monoprice HDMI switcher as I could get the STB/DVD/game through one input. Well, it works for about 3 seconds, a color test screen (solid blue) pops up and then the set goes black. This switcher has the newest 1.3 compliance, maybe it's too new for this set?

Finally, I just replaced the color wheel (wow, what a difference!) and am familiar with the service menu, so I'm not afraid to take a look inside. I'd just like some idea of where to target. Nothing looked obvious when I replaced the wheel and I couldn't find anyone with a similar problem on the net.

Any help is appreciated, even if it's to point me somewhere else.

Before my set started having power cycle problems, mine would also have the video blank out when switching between composite and DVI. My solution ended up being the replacement of the whole light engine. I had replaced the color wheel, lamp, and ballast, but that wasn't the solution.

The light engine was replaced, and now the set is working again. No more power cycles. Video comes on the first time every time.

I was able to save the lamp from my old setup (since it was still new) so I can have it as a backup later.

There is something else I've just noticed. Was playing some movies this weekend (had some Sammy quality time to catch up) and notice that the entire video image has shifted up by an inch or two. When watching a full 16x9 image, I now get a small black bar across the bottom of the screen while the top inch or so of the picture is chopped off.

I'm off to do some searching on if the video image can be adjusted, but if anyone has any ideas, please let me know. If not, I'll call up Best Buy to come back and fix it.I am glad your original problem is fixed. It has been a long road. This one should be easy.

There is a "projected image adjustment" in the service menu. You can adjust both horizontal and vertical position.

Frankdib posed this question in a PM:I recently bought a new color wheel and installed it. I have set the CCA settings to the ones that were supplied. However, when I go under Picture > My Color Control > Detail Control, I have a pink, green, and blue. The problem the green is blue and the blue is green.

My colors seem to be reversed maybe? If there is any information or help that you can provide me it would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Frank

There is a jumper that needs to be removed if the color wheel is changed from original type to the new type. There is a access area in the perforated metal screen. There should be a sticker above it talking about removing a jumper for air bearings. The attached picture is a little out of focus, but you should get the general idea. It is a little difficult, but you can get to it through the lamp replacement door with needle nose pliers. It is easier if you pull the back of the TV off.

I am glad your original problem is fixed. It has been a long road. This one should be easy.

There is a "projected image adjustment" in the service menu. You can adjust both horizontal and vertical position.

I went into the service menu to adjust the image. I dropped the horizontal all the way down to 0. It was set at 30 before. With the image change, I still have a 3/4" black band at the bottom of the screen.

Guess it would be easier to get Best Buy back to make the adjustment (since it's warranty work and no cost to me).

If your problem is a band across the bottom should you not have adjusted the "vertical " setting not the horizontal. I had to make a similar adjustment on my HLP 5663.

Maybe I get the names confused. The option I was adjusting was showing the box shifting up and down as I was increasing/decreasing the number value. I had it set as low as it could go (box was down as far as possible).

Going back to run the screen tests, there continued to be a 3/4" black band across the bottom of the screen.

I would call Best Buy. Make them fix the problem. I checked the service manual yesterday and did not see anything about a physical adjustment, but that does not mean that there isn't one.

Appointment made for Thursday. ;)

"There is a jumper that needs to be removed if the color wheel is changed from original type to the new type. "

I am getting ready to replace my color wheel. Is there a way to determine beforehand whether or not that jumper needs to be removed? The build date of my HLP4663 is October 2004. Had they switched wheel types at that point.

Alos--Anyone know if the availability problem of color wheels been resolved yet?

Thanks

Color wheels are available to order. I only had to wait about a week to get mine.

Best way to know about the jumper is to see if your set has the jumper in the first place. My Sammy (HLP5063W) didn't have one. The new light engine does have one, so I know that I may have to deal with it in the future. You can easily take the back off and compare to the picture that's been posted here.

Had service guy stop over yesterday. All that was needed was a physical adjustment to the DM board. Adjustment was done in reverse (push down and the video image moved up). Everything is back to perfect.

Here's hoping it lasts another 3+ years. At least I now have a much better understanding of the internal workings of the set and how to handle most repairs myself. Thanks to all for your kind help! :D

Help??
Replaced the color wheel on my HLP4663 today. Everything SEEMED to go fine, other than we mught have knocked the lamp unit as we freed it.
Set will not power up the lamp, and I have the 3 blinking lights.
Is there anything we could have missed? We double checked the connections and all steps after it failed, and all seems proper.
Is there any way the lamp can be tested somewhere? It does not appear to be damaged, but I don't expect this to look likea normal light bilb if it is not working.
Anything anyone can offer to troubleshoot this will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Cyberpmg - Not sure how I missed that you posted last week. Glad to here everything went well. I hope you get a couple of good years out of it...However, I must say I really like the picture of my 2007 model much better than the 5663. (However, I think the sound was better in 5663). The new sets in a couple of years will REALLY look great. Don't hang on to the old one too long and cheat yourself!

My boss is still waiting on a new light engine for her 4663. She cheered up when I told her that the LE fixed what was ailing yours.

Help??
Replaced the color wheel on my HLP4663 today. Everything SEEMED to go fine, other than we mught have knocked the lamp unit as we freed it.
Set will not power up the lamp, and I have the 3 blinking lights.
Is there anything we could have missed? We double checked the connections and all steps after it failed, and all seems proper.
Is there any way the lamp can be tested somewhere? It does not appear to be damaged, but I don't expect this to look likea normal light bilb if it is not working.
Anything anyone can offer to troubleshoot this will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Good job on getting the new color wheel in. When you connected the color wheel connectors, did you get the copper-colored, flat cable all the way seated in the connector? Are you sure you connected that cable with the exposed copper conductors facing the right way? There is nothing that prevents you from doing it wrong. I am not sure what the symptom of putting that in cable in backwards would be other than the set would not work since the color wheel can't would not be spinning.

That said, 3 blinking lights points to the lamp.

How old is your lamp? Does it have enough hours on it that you buying another would make sense? (Do you need to buy one soon anyway?) I don't know how to check the lamp outside of a TV.

Thank you dengland!
We had double and triple checked, or so we thought, but after checking the old wheel we pulled it apart again and saw that we had that copper connector the wrong way. Red id it (that conmnector sure is a PITA to secure)and up it came just fine. It's funny, I'm not unconfortable with this stuff, and my high school son with the steadier hands who is on his robotics squad (the build group!) was fully involved. And yet we missed it.
Apparently there are check circuits back and forth so the lamp won't come on if it can't work!
BTW, althjugh coming on 4 years old lamp life is only about 3700 hours, so I did not think this should have been the lamp.
Thanks again.

Implot - I am glad it was an easy fix for you. It is really easy to miss things like that.

You are right, 3700 hours is not many. I had over 11K when I replaced my lamp. (I just went ahead and replaced the lamp when I did the color wheel). The old one makes for as good spare now.

Hello all,

I've been fighting a flaky input problem for months now, but it's getting worse:

I can only get one component input to work and that's only some of the time. Doesn't matter if it's a DVD player or the Wii. It just cuts out to black. Sometimes jiggling the cables at the connection seems to work. It's something loose back there.

None of the Composite inputs work, including the one near the front! That doesn't make sense to me, if it's a loose cable on the rear panel.

Even more weird, the HDMI seems to be rock solid. So, smart me, I picked up a new monoprice HDMI switcher as I could get the STB/DVD/game through one input. Well, it works for about 3 seconds, a color test screen (solid blue) pops up and then the set goes black. This switcher has the newest 1.3 compliance, maybe it's too new for this set?

Finally, I just replaced the color wheel (wow, what a difference!) and am familiar with the service menu, so I'm not afraid to take a look inside. I'd just like some idea of where to target. Nothing looked obvious when I replaced the wheel and I couldn't find anyone with a similar problem on the net.

Any help is appreciated, even if it's to point me somewhere else.

Before my set started having power cycle problems, mine would also have the video blank out when switching between composite and DVI. My solution ended up being the replacement of the whole light engine. I had replaced the color wheel, lamp, and ballast, but that wasn't the solution.




OK, I thought I could just live with HDMI only, but it finally went out. So, no component, composite or HDMI. Cable input works as does the PC in. No problem paying Xbox 360 through that connection. This leads me to believe that I don't have issues with the anything related to the light engine. I can run through the service menu color test on all inputs.

When I unplug HDMI from the STB side, the message changes from "No Signal" to "Check Signal Cable" so I know it senses it. I just know something's gone bad on the "video input board" or something like that. So, I tore everything back down and the entire "input jack" chasis comes out pretty easily. The next question is what do I replace? Could this be the digital board? Both the HDMI and PC inputs look connected to that, but the component inputs are above it. Am I just getting in over my head? I really don't want to throw away a 4 yr old set I paid $3k for. Any suggestions? Thanks!

its an easy fix, just take that secton out of the tv by unpluging all the cunections on the analog board and the two screws that holds that big medal pice out. 2 or 3 screws to take the face plate off, discunect the cunecters so that nothing is cunnectied to the top board ( analog board ) unscrew the top board from the big medal pice and install the new board, cunect everything back. I would replace the analog board, because the digital board is more money.

its an easy fix, just take that secton out of the tv by unpluging all the cunections on the analog board and the two screws that holds that big medal pice out. 2 or 3 screws to take the face plate off, discunect the cunecters so that nothing is cunnectied to the top board ( analog board ) unscrew the top board from the big medal pice and install the new board, cunect everything back. I would replace the analog board, because the digital board is more money.

I think I might try this route. It'll cost more money just to take it in and get looked at. Is there any reason to believe, based on my symptoms, that it's the analog board and not the digital one?

the only thing you could do is get another hdmi source like a dvd player and see if it works. if it still says "no signal" or "check signlal cable" then you have a bad digital board, but if it works it could be bad hdmi cable or your source (X-box) might have a bad hdmi out put.

if you dont have another hdmi source then go to best buy and buy a dvd player and return it the next day.

that sucks that both your analog board and you digital board might be bad.

the only thing you could do is get another hdmi source like a dvd player and see if it works. if it still says "no signal" or "check signlal cable" then you have a bad digital board, but if it works it could be bad hdmi cable or your source (X-box) might have a bad hdmi out put.

if you dont have another hdmi source then go to best buy and buy a dvd player and return it the next day.

that sucks that both your analog board and you digital board might be bad.

I have several HDMI sources and none of them work. Even tried different cables. I'm guessing it's both boards. The funny part is that the COAX still works so I had Verizon send me a digital-to-analog converter so I could at least use the set (albeit with ultra-crappy SD signals). Just a few months back I was snickering to myself about people having to get a converter for the big switchover next year. "Who still uses analog?" I guess the joke's on me!

Hello All

I have a Samsung HLP5063WX/XAA that I've had since 2005. This year after reading other posts from this site and others I replaced the color wheel (which was shattered) and the balast because the light would not start. I felt confident I could do this repair myself and the repair went great. I can post detailed instructions and pictures for anyone who may want to see it. The instructions I was following for what was supposed to be the same model were completely different, so I kept a picture diary of the whole process.

That was about 2 months ago. Yesterday out of the blue I got these flashing bars, black, that resemble tire tracks in the mud and they flicker. I am attaching a short clip since pictures speak a thousand words. Just by reading other posts, it seems that the problem may be the DMD. I haven't seen any posts that are exactly like this problem which is why I am sharing and hoping someone has seen this before.

Short clip in the .zip file

Thanks
JC

Yes, that would have been impossible to describe with only words.

Not sure that it makes a difference, but you did not say if this happens with all of your inputs (component, HDMI, NTSC, composite, etc.)

I think you are looking at something major I am afraid.

Have you at least reseated the connectors on the digital board? I know that has fixed some of my pinball machine problems in the past.

Yes, it occurs on all inputs. Since my post I removed the light engine, removed what I think is the DMD board to inspect for anything obvious. I put it all back together and still the same problem. (so, yes all the connectors have been re-seated)

DMD looks like a 900 dollar part. Too much, when you can get a tv now for 1000. I paid 2400 for this hlp5063w. Maybe i'll part it out. The ballast only has about 500 hours on it, and the color wheel as well. I also have a new bulb on the shelf that hasn't been used. Its about $400 in new parts. I was hoping that it would run a long time with the new parts.

JC

I have a HLP4663. My color wheel was making a buzzing noice, so I got a new one and replaced it. The new one is the air bearing type. I don't think the old one was, but I'm not sure. I didn't notice a jumper, though, so I didn't pull one out. However, with the new CW in, my picture isn't quite right. It's just a tad fuzzy and is especially bad with darker colors. Do I need to get into the service menu and change the CCA settings to the ones that came with the new CW? Thanks!

I'm new to these forums, and I hope someone can assist me with weird things going on with my Samsung HL-P5063W, maybe somebody here can offer some advice.

I'm hooked up with HDMI on my PS3, but the XMB text has always been grainy, no matter the settings I choose. Well, after turning on my tv earlier today, I noticed that the XMB text was absolutely smooth - just like my work hookup. Then it degraded right in front of my eyes to the "normal" grainy look. After that, I checked it out without using the PS3. I'm not sure if it's some kind of processing that's starting up late, or a problem with my bulb, but I've turned off the DNIe and Digital NR, set my size to Expand, the works. I don't even have to have the console on - the TV's menu text is grainy as well, and the degradation always occurs 30 seconds to a minute after the TV is turned on after being off for a while.

Has anyone seen or have a possible explanation for this? Is there a firmware update I should know about? It's maddening to get marched to the top of the mountain, told "this is what you can't have" then marched right back down again.

http://i38.tinypic.com/5obmo7.jpg

Thanks.

I have a HLP4663. My color wheel was making a buzzing noice, so I got a new one and replaced it. The new one is the air bearing type. I don't think the old one was, but I'm not sure. I didn't notice a jumper, though, so I didn't pull one out. However, with the new CW in, my picture isn't quite right. It's just a tad fuzzy and is especially bad with darker colors. Do I need to get into the service menu and change the CCA settings to the ones that came with the new CW? Thanks!
Not sure if you have taken care of this yet or not....

I did not have to change CCA settings when I replaced the color wheel. There is an adjustment in the menu called "INDEX DELAY" During that adjustment there is going to be a red bar along the bottom of the screen. The idea of the adjustment is to make that bar the truest "RED" as possible.

If you have to adjust to the extreme left or right (especially if you cannot get it red), it means you need to remove or add the jumper. Look here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14134975#post14134975) for the picture of where to look for the jumper.

This seems to be an old thread but Ill try anyways...

Ive been reading through this thread and through other channels trying to figure this one out. I recently replaced my lamp after 16k hours. After replacing the lamp, I now get a loud buzzing/gurgling sound on start up of my TV. The gurgling goes away and Im able to somewhat ignore the buzzing, but its worrisome. On shut down, it doesnt continue buzzing so Im a little hesitant to replace the color wheel if I dont have to. Could anyone give me some direction on what this could be?

That is really weird! Do you still have the old lamp? If so, do you get the same noises with that lamp installed. It sounds like it could be the ballast. Remember decades ago when florescent lights used to make a buzzing sound when they were not working right? When you replaced the lamp did you replace the lamp, or the entire lamp assembly?

Any strange smells from the TV?

The other lamp is blown so I couldnt tell you if it would work without the buzzing. I replaced the entire assembly with a new phillips assembly from Discount Merchant. My original bulb was the big bulb and the new bulb is the smaller version but it wouldnt seem that that would cause problems.

There is not a smell or anything coming from the TV. I am wondering if it is the fan maybe or if it is the switch that needs to be engaged when you put the cover back on. If I push on the cover, the 'buzzing' speeds up and gets higher in pitch. The picture is so much brighter and colorful now but the buzzing is killing me. I dont want to turn the TV off anymore for fear that the loud gurgling noise will not go away if I do..

I think it is good that there is no smell. Replacing the entire assembly means the that connections to the bulb are probably tight from the factory. The only switch that I remember is the one that prevents the TV from powering on if the lamp access cover is not in place. I don't think that will make it rattle.

There is a fan in there that blows on the lamp. You could be hearing that. One way to determine color wheel from the fan is how long the noise lasts after power down. If if it lasts more than a few seconds, it probably is the fan instead of the color wheel.

The next cheap thing to do is pull the whole back assembly off to see if you can localize the sound. There are about 10 screws and it is not complicated. (If you power on the set with the back cover off, you will need to hold the switch that the lamp access door keeps engaged.)

When you have the cover off, make sure everything is tight (e.g. lamp assembly)

So, my light engine is apparently trashed; do I just drag this thing out to the dump or should I try to get something for parts? I hear the only thing that has much value is the screen.

What do you guys think?

You may want to check ebay to see if there is value to the parts.

RickDeez may want to buy your lamp assembly for troubleshooting!

I dont understand all of the CCA values and where to enter them in the SM when you change the color wheel. I have found the x and y values and changed them but what do you do with the Lv values? My tv model is the HLP5063WX and I have been inside the TV and the service menu a couple of times before but I cannot figure this one out for myself. After entering the x and y values the picture seems to be nice but the artifacts in the blacks and dark sections of picture are bad. I have never had any complaints about my picture prior to the color wheel change so I really believe this is a color wheel tuning issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
RickHolc


Details of CCA sheet:

CCA Values

red green blue white
x 651 299 145 287
y 338 617 060 309
Lv 123.7 483.0 60.8 674.1

INDEX
DELAY

ACTU
-ATOR



HLP5063WX Manufactured November 2004. Purchased Jan 2005.
Currently on second bulb. First bulb lasted 12000+ hours.
The key to a long life with your bulb is power control.
1) Never operate the TV during a storm or when there is a chance of a power outage.
2) Never operate your TV from a plug strip.
3) Never remove the plug from the wall before the cooling fan shuts down.
4) Remove dust from around the back of the TV so it does not get pulled into the inside of the machine.
5) If you are going to turn the TV on leave it on for a while. I never turn it on and then back off.

yeah it turned out to be my color wheel that was screaming. I replaced the color wheel and have adjusted the CCA values exactly as RickHolc and have the exact same questions.

Unfortunately, my color wheel did not come with the values filled in on the index delay and actuator boxes so I have no idea what they should be...and I am baffled as to what the Lv values are and where they need to change...I have what looks like a pixelated area in the top right of my screen that is noticeable when that area is white...barely but since I have noticed it, I see it all the time now...I believe this probably has to do with the index delay...other than that the picture looks absolutely beautiful and is as quiet as ever...

I appreciate everyones insight

I was able to clean up my artifacts by finding a dark frame in the movie Constantine and pausing my DVR. I then went into the Index Delay setting and adjusted it until the artifacts disappeared. I had an original value of 31 and have now changed it to 41. The artifacts are gone. While I was at it I also changed my gamma to 0 (based on research done by others). I am still tweeking it but things are looking much better. I dont see any white pixelated areas on my screen so I am not sure what problem you are encountering. I do have a question for you RickDeez, when you replaced the color wheel did you find that the new one seemed to have a lot of play and that you needed to slide so the gaskit seeled inplace before tightening the screws? I would think something like this would have an exact location to be mounted and not have slack. What was your feeling on this?

when I replaced the color wheel, it was pretty much a perfect fit...I didnt have any play at all...sorry

the "pixelated" area in the top right of my screen is only noticable when tat part of the screen goes white...and you can see a line of pink pixels in the top like ou would on the entire screen when you set the index dela really high or really low...its funny though because I only see it in the top right and nowhere else...Ill probably find a test screen and adjust the index delay until it disappears

wow, what a great thread, all I can say is thanks to everyone for contributing based on your experiences with this set. After tweaking and fine tuning my parents set, all I can say is WOWZERS...not bad for a set that's several years old, now, excuse me while I burn my eyeballs with HD material:D

Did you find the answer to the Lv values? I am having the same issue with my HLP6163W. Have called Samsung who gave me a fax # for a consumer dept.
Thanx, SaleeD

Were you able to find the answer to this? I have the same issue with my HLP6163W and have tried Samsung to no avail. SaleeD

I dont understand all of the CCA values and where to enter them in the SM when you change the color wheel. I have found the x and y values and changed them but what do you do with the Lv values? My tv model is the HLP5063WX and I have been inside the TV and the service menu a couple of times before but I cannot figure this one out for myself. After entering the x and y values the picture seems to be nice but the artifacts in the blacks and dark sections of picture are bad. I have never had any complaints about my picture prior to the color wheel change so I really believe this is a color wheel tuning issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
RickHolc


Details of CCA sheet:

CCA Values

red green blue white
x 651 299 145 287
y 338 617 060 309
Lv 123.7 483.0 60.8 674.1

INDEX
DELAY

ACTU
-ATOR



HLP5063WX Manufactured November 2004. Purchased Jan 2005.
Currently on second bulb. First bulb lasted 12000+ hours.
The key to a long life with your bulb is power control.
1) Never operate the TV during a storm or when there is a chance of a power outage.
2) Never operate your TV from a plug strip.
3) Never remove the plug from the wall before the cooling fan shuts down.
4) Remove dust from around the back of the TV so it does not get pulled into the inside of the machine.
5) If you are going to turn the TV on leave it on for a while. I never turn it on and then back off.

I tried posting a new thread on this but it doesn't seem to be attracting much interest, so I figured I might have better luck here.

My Samsung DLP is about 4 years old. I replaced the bulb about a year ago. Other than that it has been working fine ever since I have owned it until recently. A few weeks ago there was a horizontal black bar that suddenly appeared across the width of the screen about 1/3 of the way down. It disappeared after a little while and I thought it from the cable box. It then showed up again yesterday but now it won't go away and it is not the source. It is there regardless of input. I tried unplugging it for 30 min. and turning it back on and leaving it off overnight, but it is still there. I am at a loss.

Has anyone else experienced this or know what may be the cause? I tried searching here and elsewhere and I found a few references to the problem but no answers. I imaging I will have to call a repairman, but I was hoping that maybe someone here had the same issue and knows of an easy fix.

Thanks in advance!

Hello, problem with my HL-P5063W here, perhaps you all can help. I just bought a PS3 and a new HDMI cable, plugged it in, nothing. I can't get a signal via HDMI at all. Is there a custom tweak or update I need to do? The PS3 is trying to send signal via HDMI, the cable is plugged in and the input is selected on the set.

I can't seem to get anything to work on my HLP 4663w component 1 input..

My Wii works on component 2 and my dvd (an older JVC) only works on component 2. Both on component 1 only show "no signal".

I have a Bell PVR sat in input as S-Video.


Is this a problem that has an easy fix?

I
Is this a problem that has an easy fix?

I don't suppose you have extended warranty?

I would expect that it is not an easy or cheap fix. Not sure if it would be the anlog or the digital board. either way, more money to fix than it is worth.

i do have an extended warranty, so maybe I'll make the call.. i just wasn't sure if the output of the older DVD was not compatible before I did that. Is there are possibility that the output from the dvd is not compatible?

You said that the DVD and the Wii work fine on component 2 but not component 1. There is no difference on the TV side. If it works on one input it will work on the other unless the TV has a problem.

Hello, problem with my HL-P5063W here, perhaps you all can help. I just bought a PS3 and a new HDMI cable, plugged it in, nothing. I can't get a signal via HDMI at all. Is there a custom tweak or update I need to do? The PS3 is trying to send signal via HDMI, the cable is plugged in and the input is selected on the set.

I have my PS3 working via HDMI so I doubt it is a custom tweak or update, because I didn't do anything. I had a upconverting dvd player hooked up via HDMI before.....uplugged it and plugged in the PS3.

Hi people.......I have an HLP-5063 that I bought in '04, fimware version 1035, for whatever that's worth. The light engine was replaced once under the extended warranty, and other than that, haven't really had any problems. On the other hand, I've also never done much to get a better picture. Out of the box it's fine,but I know it could most likely be much better. I know the color isn't as good as it could be.Any advice on some basics??? I was considering getting the Avia or DVE disks and giving that a try, for starters. Which one is better, and are they pretty user friendly? Any other advice appreciated. I wish I could afford top calibrate it, but in the current economy,that is way too much of a luxury,so any simple service menu tricks would also be appreciated. Thanks!

Well, I checked the service menu and saw I had 5500 hours on my lamp, so I figured it might need to be replaced. Although I wasn't seeing the 3 flashing lights on the front like some have suggested, this seemed like a plausible explanation.

I installed the lamp and have had the TV running for a total of 12 hours or so. All seems well and no random turnoffs.

If anyone else is experiencing random turnoffs, I recommend replacing the lamp.

I take back whatever I suggested here. The random turnoffs are back with a vengeance. Does anyone have any suggestions for what the issue could be? The lamp is fairly new, it shouldn't have but so many hours on it.

hello all. I am back with some other questions about my TV. Previously i had the issue with random power offs. I replaced the bulb and that issue went away completely. I had over 7000 hours on the first bulb and it last almost 4 years so i was pretty happy about that.

The issue that i am having now is a wierd sound coming form the TV. It only happens on power down. It sounds kinda like a card in a bicycle tire. It is not very loud but it is definitely noticeable. There is no sound while that tv is powering on or during viewing. It is only there when the tv is powering off. Any ideas as to what this could be and if this is something that i would be able to repair easily or not.

I appreciate the assistance.

hello all. I am back with some other questions about my TV. Previously i had the issue with random power offs. I replaced the bulb and that issue went away completely. I had over 7000 hours on the first bulb and it last almost 4 years so i was pretty happy about that.

The issue that i am having now is a wierd sound coming form the TV. It only happens on power down. It sounds kinda like a card in a bicycle tire. It is not very loud but it is definitely noticeable. There is no sound while that tv is powering on or during viewing. It is only there when the tv is powering off. Any ideas as to what this could be and if this is something that i would be able to repair easily or not.

I appreciate the assistance.

My first guess would be the color wheel. Replacement is a bit more involved than replacing the lamp but, not impossible

is there any way to determine what is causing this. If i take the cover off the back and listen will it be obvious where the issue is? I am fairly handy with electronics so if it is possible to replace i think i can do it. Is it something that i can/should do or is it better pay someone to do it?

I really appreciate any information that i can get since it is obviously not under warranty any longer and i would like to keep the set as long as possible. I will start looking around for the price on replacement color wheels. Is there any other things that i would need to look into as well. Any other maintenance type issues i should be aware of.

thanks again

pjones0404: There are only 2 moving parts in these sets, the fan, and the color wheel. NOTHING ELSE can make a noise. They are independent. You cannot operate the set with the back off unless you find the mechanical switch that tells the set the back is closed and tape it down. You should be able to identify the fan by listening with the set on and back closed, as the fan MUST be on when the set is on. You can then identify if the sound you are hearing is the fan or the color wheel. If it's the color wheel it will only get worse and you must replace it. You can get the part for about $100, and there are great instructions for how to do this online. You need to search here, and also Google as that is where you will find both the part and the more detailed instructions. Unfortunately, after I replaced mine last summer I threw out all my various preparatory paperwork As i could not foresee doing this again down the road, so you will have to search this out. The word "jengo" or "jango" sticks in my memory regarding where I found instructions. The replacement itself is much more straightforward than you would expect, requiring only logically following instructions and having a steady hand. The only part that can easily be gotten wrong is to reverse the ribbon lead into the new wheel, make certain you know the orientation as it is not obvious and can go in either way. Reverse it, the set can't power up as the wheel won't power up. We spent a lot of time searching for that problem. You should be able to find my prior posts to resolve that.
Good luck

i really appreciate the info. I looked around online and it looks like it is fairly reasonable to replace. I will start looking for some instructions on how to do it. One other question about this situation.

Can i wait until it complete fails to replace or should i do this as soon as possible. Will it damage any other parts of the set if i wait to do this?

thanks again

I don't believ there is any harm unless the wheel shatters. soon as possible.
Make certain that you identify if this is the different wheel from the original or not, which will require you to pull a jumper pin on the back of the wheel if your original was the older style - more indication that Samsung knew they had a problem with the wheel when they got the first round of the HLPs out. The new wheel uses an air bearing, and also indexes differently. Again, you should be able to find this info. I'd gladly save you the search if I could!

I have a HLP5063W and am getting the dreaded 3 blinking lights. Let me back up, for the past two weeks or so, I turn the TV on and the green 'lamp' light flashes as it is warming up, but the nothing happens on the screen. The TV then tries to start up again. Sometimes the picture comes on, sometimes not. After two or three (I can't remember) 'restart’ attempts by the TV, I get the three blinking lights. I hit the power button and try again. The TV usually comes on after a couple or tries. I'm assuming I need to get a new lamp. I checked the hours a few months ago and think it was around 5,000. When I called Samsung, the lady said it could be the lamp or the light engine, but she couldn’t say for sure. She didn't seem very confident in her answer. She told me I should replace the bulb and see if that fixes it.
Do you guys think that is the answer?

Also - any suggestions on where to buy the new lamp? I've read some people had a good experience with Laptops for Less.
Thanks

i really appreciate the info. I looked around online and it looks like it is fairly reasonable to replace. I will start looking for some instructions on how to do it. One other question about this situation.

Can i wait until it complete fails to replace or should i do this as soon as possible. Will it damage any other parts of the set if i wait to do this?

thanks again

There is a link in this post to some instructions with pictures...
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13749565#post13749565

I waited until the noise drove me crazy... It will get worse. A shattering CW should not hurt anything, but it will make a mess inside the TV. Worse is the fact that when it does go out, you cannot watch TV. I would recommend doing it sooner rather than later.

Bump


I have a HLP5063W and am getting the dreaded 3 blinking lights. Let me back up, for the past two weeks or so, I turn the TV on and the green 'lamp' light flashes as it is warming up, but the nothing happens on the screen. The TV then tries to start up again. Sometimes the picture comes on, sometimes not. After two or three (I can't remember) 'restart’ attempts by the TV, I get the three blinking lights. I hit the power button and try again. The TV usually comes on after a couple or tries. I'm assuming I need to get a new lamp. I checked the hours a few months ago and think it was around 5,000. When I called Samsung, the lady said it could be the lamp or the light engine, but she couldn’t say for sure. She didn't seem very confident in her answer. She told me I should replace the bulb and see if that fixes it.
Do you guys think that is the answer?

Also - any suggestions on where to buy the new lamp? I've read some people had a good experience with Laptops for Less.
Thanks

I would lean towards the lamp also. I bought from www.samsungparts.com (http://www.samsungparts.com) at the end of 2007. I have bought other parts from partstore.com.