I have a new 51A and am thinking of getting the OPPO DVD with the DCDi scaler. What interface configuration will I need to use to get the DCDi scaler to override the scaler in the 51A such that there is the minimum of processing but that I get the DCDi scaling?

The OPPO has DVI output and I have a DVI cable and a HDMI adapter.

If there is a forum topic on these issues please point me to it.

Thanks for any tips/advice.

M./

I now have about 60 hours of viewing with my 51A and Carada BW 118" screen.

With just a preliminary AVIA tweak, I am extremely happy with my Zenith DVB318 feeding the 51A via component video.

I purchased (and had to return) a DVI-to-HDMI adapter for my Dish 811 HD feed, since the back panel of the 51A does not allow simultaneous component and DVI/HDMI adapter connections.

Geffen does make an offset adapter which would work but an imminent replacement of the Dish 811 with a Dish 211 will allow an all HDMI connection.

After watching about 10 movies with the Zenith set to feed 720p, I'm pretty convinced that if SD DVD's continue to be available, I'll be happy to wait until the HD-DVD or Blu-ray players come in at < $200.00 !!!!!

chasby

Greetings,

Byte, I am going to throw up some gray fields and check for any bias shifting. If so I will try turning of the gamma shading and see what the results are.

I took a look at the new SpyderTV Pro. I see no reference to it's use with front projectors. What's the scoop for those of us who might consider using this as a tool for a front projector?

Thanks again.

Regards,

We'll have to wait and see what the new package offers. I understand it willinclude new spoftware and a new probe, so there is no way of knowing what the package can do until it hit the streets.

IHere is a .pdf file from CES.

http://www.blanca.com/testpatterns/Datacolor%20SpyderTV%20PRO%20CES.pdf

Price is said to be $699 MSRP which is interesting if the package offers good performance and FP support.

I found some new factory menu adjustments worth looking into.

For folks that notice EE on the 50/51 even with the sharpness set to OFF, The follow factory menu items seem to deal nicely with EE/ringing issues.

I found these on the 51A, and can not try them on the 51 since I sold my 51.

Maybe someone can confirm these menu functions on the 50/51 and report. Closely watch the manu lettering as you make the adjustments.

DISPLAY ENGINE

25 DE/HPF ON = 1 Turning this to (0) eliminates EE visible around dark letters & lines. You can see an apparent shift to a softer image.

26 DE/HPF TAP = 1 With Line 25 set to (1), this control has a range of 0-3. Setting to 3 moves the EE around dark letters to the left. Setting to (0) completely center the EE, while manitaining a very slight edge detail enhancement.

Both of these appear to be High Pass Filter (HPF) controls. Check them out.

I need a HS-51 owner familiar with the factory menu to try something and report your observations.

Please go into the factory mode and then proceed to the DISPLAY ENGINE

Line: 18 USC On = 1

Try setting this to (0). This turns off all of the RGB gain/bias controls as well as the master contrast, brightness, color & hue. How does the image change? Does it shift to extreme blue/green color temp? Or does it remain relatively similar to setting (1), with just a subtle color temp shift?

Go ahead and set it back to (1) and all is back to normal.

I am trying to compare what happens on the HS-51A as well as the Ruby.

Thanks

Byte:

Checked it out. On the HS51 it is line 24, not 18. Turning it off shifts it to extreme blue/green.

I also tried the HPF change. I don't have an Accupel or an HTPC - only the AVIA sharpness pattern, but with my sharpness control set to zero, I could not detect a difference between HPF On=1, and HPF On=0.

Pip

Byte:

Checked it out. On the HS51 it is line 24, not 18. Turning it off shifts it to extreme blue/green.

I also tried the HPF change. I don't have an Accupel or an HTPC - only the AVIA sharpness pattern, but with my sharpness control set to zero, I could not detect a difference between HPF On=1, and HPF On=0.

Pip

Yes, I think we can now confirm setting HPF On = 0 is the same as setting the master sharpness control to OFF. I have decided to leave this on but changed the UPF TAP to (0) so that when I do want to use sharpness, it looks a little better because the edge detail is more confined.

Anyone with a 51 and the gear to do their own calibrations, I have a suggestion.

Try calibrating with Contrast set to 95. Yes, 95.

The tricks...

Set ALL RGB gain & bias settings to 100.

Put up a 100% full white field. Then increase RED Gain & Bias in equal amounts until you notice the controls no longer change the value of RED in the calibration software. You have just established where RED runs out at 100% video and 95 Contrast. Back off (1) click of both RED Gain & Bias to honor the patron Saint of LCD projectors. :D .

Now your ready to dial in GREEN and BLUE, making no further adjustements to RED.

I started with 80% white. Don't worry when your GREEN and BLUE Gain values drop down into the 20 range, go for it. Do 30% next, you will note you might actually want to increase GREEN & BLUE BIAS settings from 100. You will need to jump back and forth between 30 & 80 for the final tweaks. (aside: If you were thinking you might want to drop the RGB Bias settings so you could increase the Gain, don't waste your time as you will simply end up back with the Green & Blue Bias values above 100.)

Why Contrast = 95? There is something about the way the Sony 51 & 51A tracks gamma for RED BLUE & GREEN which becomes more linear at 95. As a result, I found the deviation of color temp thru the 0-100% range was much flatter, as was GAMMA, as was delta*C.

One other note. Set the 51 to GAMMA 2, as this provides the flattest 2.2 GAMMA response thru the 0-100% video range. There is still a little bump in the 10-40% range, but it's reduced darmatically compared to gamma OFF. Gamma 3 goes a litte too far sending 80-100 video levels below gamma 2.2.

I have recalibrated my 51a at 95 Contrast for 6500K, 7500K and 9300K.

For folks without calibration gear, I posted my 51A RGB tweaks over in the 51A tweaking thread. I posted RGB values for contrast 80 & 95 at 6500K & 7500K. You could give them a try and see if they work for ya. If anyone wants 9300K values let me know.

I’ve read (almost) all of the postings in this thread... in a couple of days.. :)
Yes.. cross-eyed now.. :)
I’ve especially enjoyed Bytehoven’s postings..

I'm about to fine-tune my HS50 with a brand new lamp..

I've got a Adeo Greyvision Framed Screen 16:9 92", gain 1.0...

Reading all the settings in the excellent "sony HS50 - HS51 - tweak table.xls" gives me an inspiration (thanks!!), but none of you has listed what kind of screen.. white/grey, gain…
f.ex. Bytehoven’s settings may be totally wrong for my screen…

Can you please post your type of screen?

And thanks again, to you all, for an excellent thread!

FrodeN
Oslo, Norway

Have you a tweak for the vertical banding ? I can see a little on the green panel only.

Please Help a poor beginner

.......don't watch a green screen. Movies and games look a look better and no VB. ;)

Check out these readings for the 51A.

http://www.blanca.com/51A/K_C79_6500_FL.jpg
http://www.blanca.com/51A/RGB_C79_6500_FL.jpg

Super flat color temp and RGB track. I followed the advice of Gregg over in the display calibration forum, and tried a different techinque on the 51A which might alsao work on the 51.

It involves finding where RED begins to fall off. In the graph below, you can see how red starts to fall off at 85 IRE. By moving the K value for 85 IRE up to 100 IRE and recalibrating, the near perfect grayscale track was achieved. You lose some brightness and ON/OFF contrast, but the benefits of a near perfect grayscale track might be worth it. If anyone wants me to go into specifics of the calibration technique, I will be happy to elaborate.

http://www.blanca.com/51A/rgb_C95_6500_FLday.jpg

Just wanted to say that my lamp blew last night, but that going on 18 months and I still love this projector. This is the longest I've ever owned a digital for without getting upgrade fever.

I apologize if I bring any topic up that has been previously discussed, as I have not kept up with the whole thread. Primarily, I just want to post my results.

I have put over 3000 hours on my HS51 (with the 720p fix) and have been using Avia and DVE to calibrate it for about 6 months. I am projecting with a diagonal of 92” on a Da-Lite high contrast cinema vision screen. The DVD player is a Pioneer Elite DV-59AVi running at 720p, connected with HDMI. I have found the settings below to be the best for me with the calibration tools I have, just the two DVDs, and a general knowledge of picture parameters.

Brightness
48 – with no ambient light
54 – At night with my typical lighting
62-81 – During the day with blinds open

Contrast – Max
Color – 51
Hue – 51
Sharpness – Min

Black level Adj* – Off
Gamma Correction* – Off
Color Temp – Middle
Iris – Auto
Lamp – High
RCP* - Off

*Did not experiment with.

During the process I was never able to crush the whites or get the greens perfect. And I have concerns with contrast at max, as I have always been told never max out contrast. Also, I don’t know what it is but something about the yellows seems off and reds get compressed a little.

With out buying a signal generator and testing equipment, can I fix the problems with the green/yellows and reds? Maybe using RCP or the factory menu.

Any help or suggestion on how I can improve the picture quality would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Matt

Hi folks, (this is my first posting in this forum)

I have got a Problem with my HS50 Factory Settings. I have tried to adjust the parameters without subscribe the values down.....

Has anyone of YOU written them down ?? i need help, my picture is ... :eek:

Does anyone know if there is a factory reset on the HS50 ?? how can i do it ..

i dont know what i have done in the Factory Menue but the suddenly got realy fine... (after days of blind stepping )--------

And THX in this Forum for the bigbig help

Hi Friends!

I just picked up this projector a couple days ago on an impulse because my lamp popped on my last projector.

The first thing i noticed was on dark scenes in movies the blacks are not uniform throughout the screen. It has a green tint on the lower left and upper right. I also noticed along the left side, from top to bottom, there is a blue push that come out a couple inches.

Could this be the properties of the LCDs?

My white field looks good from what i can tell by eye.

I am thinking about swapping it out for another one to see if its any different but i would rather just tweek it if thats all it needs. Or maybe I should break the bank and just get the VPL-VW50.

Maybe I need to let the lamp break-in a little? I'm at about 3-4 hours.

Im using Input-a but I will try the hdmi tonight to see if that has any effect.


Jeff


PS- sorry if this subject has already been touched.. I only read the first and last couple pages.

I've not noticed that bad of shading issues. It could probably be corrected, depending on how comfortable you are with tweaking it. However, if it's that noticable I'd probably just exchange it myself. It's highly unlikely it's the bulb or needs break-in or anything of that nature.

Mine has none of the issues and shading is very minimal too.
Exchange it and then decide on Pearl.

I just realized i don't have the hs50 but i have the HS60..DUH! I did say it was an impulse buy haha. It seems as though they have the same menus (user and factory).

I brought it back and exchanged it for a new one and it has the same issue with the color uniformity in blacks.

I didn't have much time last night to really get deep into it but I messed around with the gamma settings in the factory menu and it seems like that is the solution.
The thing I don't understand is under "shading" there is 11 settings. Lets say I tweak shade "1" to perfect uniformity then switch to shade "2", I will have to do it again? Then i would have to follow though tweaking all the "shades"? And not to forget that I will have to record all the changes I make. WOW that could take hours... and with my luck I would forget to hit "store to memory" haha

When changing the values in the gamma (R,G,B), what would be the better way to adjust the value? ie: If it is displaying a green push in an area, would I want to turn the green down or red and blue up or a little of both. What are my possible dangers or compromises in changing the preset gamma values.

Jeff

Don't mess with it until you have about 100 hrs or more on the lamp. Things will change rapidly early on. Write down all the factory default before you change any thing in the service menu.
If you have green black in "low temp" then you need to decrease green bias in color temp menu. Once every thing looks good then you will touch up your shading but not until you have calibrated gray scale.

Does any one have a link or know where I can find documention on the "cryptic" options in the factory menu. I know a lot of it but theres more I dont know. :)

I found the problem...

I connected the HTPC via HDMI and it looks great! I didn't have this problem with my last projector but it looks good now. Glad I didn't touch the shading thanks!!

Jeff

Edit - After watching a couple movies it lost the "wow" and watching a movie with subtitles with the iris set on auto was distracting to me. I swaped it out for a VPL-VW50 and "WOW" is back.

Just got a new sony ns90 player with hdmi.Hooked it to my 51 and it looks great! One problem, the projector wont let me change the aspect ratio. just stays in wide mode for anamorphic dvds.and not applicable comes up all 133 dvds stretched. no problem with y pb pr. Is a trip to the shop needed? thanx

You're probably using the player at 1280x720 resolution; set the player to 480i/480p and you should be able to use the various screen modes. I've not done this with my HS51A, but I do it all the time with my HS20/OPPO 971.

Had to turn progressive off in the player and droped res down works ok now thanx

Hi,

I'm not allowed to post images yet, so please refer to this page for illustrations:
haukvik[dot]com[slash]rgbtrack

I did some grayscale calibration with CalMan recently, and initially I got pretty bad greyscale tracking, with a serious red peak at IRE 40 and 50, and a smaller one at 80 and 90. I tried a few more runs, but wasn't able to eliminate the peaks. The peak was clearly visible by eye, when looking at a 5% grey ramp, a red cast was very visible in the middle of the ramp.

I figured this was a good time to try out the 'Image Director' software, so I connected my computer to the projector, and pulled the gamma curve for red down a bit to see if it had any effect.

Then I did a few more CalMan runs, and ended up with a vastly improved grayscale tracking.

So by manipulating the gamma curve in the projector, I obtained a much better RGB tracking, with no visible cast, but the resulting gamma curve is not exactly smooth...

Is this a good way to obtain good RGB tracking, or do the bumpy gamma curve have any bad effects on the picture?

-Torstein

Did you do it with DI diabled? I had a friend over that had color analyzer and gray scale turned out pretty nice. The only thing is a blue peak at 20 IRE with red goes opposite. Overall it is very nice but can be better. I only have 120 hrs on the lamp and machine. Out of box was very close I admit for D65 but D75 was more like 95000K.
I need to to hook my PC and use the image director. I will redo every thing at 500 hr mark again. Mine is a 51A and I need to buy my own color analyzer, I know.

I left it on Auto, and used window patterns on the GetGray calibration disc.


-Torstein

Find where your red gain peaks and then back off like 10 points.
Use that as a fixed point and do the rest based on that. Might help you to flatten the curve.

The red gain is just below peaking.

I have tried lowering it more, but that didn't help much, that was why I tried tweaking the gamma curve with Image Director.

I just wondered if the gamma curve tweaking will cause any other problems.

As long as gray scale works shouldn't be any problem.
Your bulb is running out of red spectrum is mainly the issue.

Hi everyone!

Its been a long time since no one posted in this thread!

I just bought my sony vpl-hs51 projector, but i find that i need to calibrated cause my xbox360 games look a little bit to dark and when watching hd movies they don't look as good as i thought.

As i don't have any calibrating tools, can someone give me what he thinks are the best settings for this projector? Mainly for Component imput and hdmi. I am not quite familiar with technical words, but as i have read, i have to get to the service mode...

I would really appreciate your help to get the best from this pj!!

Thanks guys!!

hi, i just bought a used sony vpl-hs50 and dum as i am i started started playing with the factory settings. well i didn't think about writing down the old settings, and now the image look really bad.
So i was wondering if somone could tell me the original settings?
thanks in advance:)

hi, i just bought a used sony vpl-hs50 and dum as i am i started started playing with the factory settings. well i didn't think about writing down the old settings, and now the image look really bad.
So i was wondering if somone could tell me the original settings?

My bulb has gone, so I can't check..

But surely there is a Reset To Factory Defaults setting in one of the menus? I haven't used my projector for more than 18 months, so I don't remember in detail, but I would be shocked if it doesn't have this option somewhere.

Just find that option in the menus and run it - it's possible that there will be two settings, one globally and one per-input, so check all the menus.

hi, thanks for your reply..
there is indeed a option to reset but it is only for the standart user settings and nor for the factory menu...