a surprising amount of high-pitched ringing sound at higher volumes settings whenever the Optical and Coax inputs are selected (even if there's nothing actually hooked up to those inputs)

Hi Hansandersen,
Glad you like the Decco. We worked for almost two years to get it to market and we're quite proud.
Sorry to hear about the ringing. Please let us replace the unit for you as this should not happen with or without having them hooked up.
You can email or call me directly and I will take care of the issue.
My name, as well as both of my partners, email and direct phone numbers are listed in every Decco box.
Best wishes,
David

They [the D-14s] sound way better than a D-5. gives
a large soundstage, good deep bass for a small tower.

"Way better" how?

I've got a pair of D-5s and a Sub 10. I'm quite happy with the combination and not looking to upgrade anytime soon; just curious.

They sound way better than a D-5. gives
a large soundstage, good deep bass for a small tower.

David, I also noticed on the era website that the D-14 and D-10 use upgraded crossover components and are supposed to sound a bit better. Any plans for a D-4 or D-5 mk II, or something new on the bookshelf front?

David, I also noticed on the era website that the D-14 and D-10 use upgraded crossover components and are supposed to sound a bit better. Any plans for a D-4 or D-5 mk II, or something new on the bookshelf front?

Hi Iostream,
In the future, we will plan to do a mkII version w/ upgraded crossovers. We would probably do it now if we had unlimited resources, but it will probably have to wait until early 09 to be released. Which means we'll have to start working on it soon.

Best wishes,
David

David,

I'm currently running an ERA10 Sub and I had a single subwoofer input into the left channel input. I then purchased a y-cable and I'm now sending the same signal to the left and right channel input on the back of the sub and I'm getting noticeably more bass. I have not recalibrated yet to get an exact dB number on the difference, but it was significant enough that I *do* need to recalibrate the system.

Is this expected? Is it best to use a y-splitter and send the same signal to left/right, or do I have something weird going on here?

Thanks

As a follow up to Hansandersen's post regarding the Decco.

I got mine about 2 weeks ago along with a pair of D4's and am very pleased.
Initially I was concerned that that 50 watts might not be enough to drive the D4's but the Decco mates up well and doesn't run out of steam.

While I am setting up my listening area I have them running in a challenging and less than ideal space, a 20' x 40' room with 18' ceilings. However, with some rudimentary acoustic fixes I can get enjoyable sound in the nearfield.

Since the space is so large, I am running the volume on the Decco pretty high, say a bit before 12, and I do not have any noticeable ringing on the coax or optical imputs.

I agree that it would be a nice improvement to have the unit stay with the last input since every time I turn it on, I wonder why I am getting no sound.

I am using a Sonos as only source and that is accessing my own lossless library, Sirius and Rhapsody. One question I have is regarding volume control. I assume that the Sonos unit is controlling volume by "throwing away bits" so I set volume by getting close to the max volume on the Sonos and then setting the Decco to my listening volume.

Do any other Sonos users have an insight about volume control when using the Decco?

In my less than ideal space, the combination of the Decco with the D4's is giving me a warm, mid-bass focused sound that sounds very good with high quality source material and not abusive with poorer quality.

So far I am very please and I expect the sound to only improve when I get them into a proper space.

David,

I'm currently running an ERA10 Sub and I had a single subwoofer input into the left channel input. I then purchased a y-cable and I'm now sending the same signal to the left and right channel input on the back of the sub and I'm getting noticeably more bass. I have not recalibrated yet to get an exact dB number on the difference, but it was significant enough that I *do* need to recalibrate the system.

Is this expected? Is it best to use a y-splitter and send the same signal to left/right, or do I have something weird going on here?

Thanks

Hi Kommon_Sense,
I've always like using a Y-adapter into subs. First, you lower the impedance from the pre amp giving you better gain, and second, I just don't like open circuits. It's louder because you are running 1/2 the impedance from your sub out and you would have to recalibrate from a single input.
Hope this helps,
David

Hello to all. I tried to read through a majority of the thread. I am new to ERA speakers and new to the area that I live in. I don't "know" the local dealer well. my question/concern is that I am looking at a pair of D4 bookshelves. From everyone here it seems that they love power. I have a parasound Z-Amp (Rated @ 45W 8ohm). This is a real amp rated 12 Amps per channel. Will it be enough power for the little D4? I would say that my/our listening habits range from moderate to low levels. This is a music only system. Here is a sample of the kinds of music: James Taylor, Norah Jone, Dianna Krall, Dave Matthews Band, Sting, Seal, Elvis, Paul Simon. Once in awhile Pearl Jam/Smahing Pumpkins. (Christmas music as I type this)

My dealer thought that I would be fine with my music taste, but reading here gives me real concern. I really can't afford to go out and get another amp as I am just scraping together the cash for the D4 in the first place. My wife and I are expecting and this is it for a long time.

My first attraction to the speakers was that I can mount them up on the wall and they look good. Then I listened to them and think that they sound great. I would be getting these to get my current bookshelf speakers (and stands) off of the floor.

Regards,
Charlie

my question/concern is that I am looking at a pair of D4 bookshelves. From everyone here it seems that they love power. I have a parasound Z-Amp (Rated @ 45W 8ohm). Will it be enough power for the little D4?
My dealer thought that I would be fine with my music taste, but reading here gives me real concern.
Regards,
Charlie

Hi Charlie,
You'll can get about 99-103dB. Won't rattle the roof, but with the amp you have will sound fine as long as you don't over do it.
Zamp
45 watts per channel into 8 Ω
60 watts per channel into 4 Ω
The D4 is between 5-6 ohms, so you be pushing 48-55 wpc.

I've been using a 50 wpc Decco on a pair and it sounds great. The main thing is that you have a good power supply.

Of course, the best way to have a better feel is to take the amp to the dealer and let it rip...to the extent that you do let it rip at home.
Best wishes,
David Solomon

David,

I want to replace my current speaker system with a D4 (fronts) LC4 (center) and D3 (surround) combination with possibly the 8 inch sub.

I will listen to music as well as HT usage.
The family room is about 14x20 with an open side (wall) to the kitchen nook area.

I have a few questions for you.
1. What height stands should I place the D4s on?
2. Should the fronts be a the same height as the center channel speaker?
3. Will the 8 inch sub provide sufficient Bass (tight) for the set-up I want?
4. Is it ok to go with D3s for surround? And could I even go with a complete D3 setup for the room size without compromising my sound?

I'd appreciate any help you can provide.

ChuckJ

David,

The family room is about 14x20 with an open side (wall) to the kitchen nook area.
1. What height stands should I place the D4s on?
I like a 26" stand. Def Tech has on e called the Pro 1000.

2. Should the fronts be a the same height as the center channel speaker?
You can actually tilt the center to get it the right sonic height. It comes w/ rubber wedges in the box for this purpose. 3. Will the 8 inch sub provide sufficient Bass (tight) for the set-up I want?
In a 14x20 it will be all you should need.
4. Is it ok to go with D3s for surround? And could I even go with a complete D3 setup for the room size without compromising my sound?
The D3 is great for surround and for their size (whch was our main objective), but the D4 is a better speaker.


I'd appreciate any help you can provide.

ChuckJ


Answers above.
David

David, are we able to order the new towers yet? If so, I'll have my order ready for you on Monday. :D

David, are we able to order the new towers yet? If so, I'll have my order ready for you on Monday. :D

Hi Tony,
They're ready and waiting Tony. Talk to you Monday.
Best,
David

Does anybody have any experience using the D4 LCR as a center with D5 mains? Obviously the D5 LCR would be the better match, but it just isn't an option due to size constraints. I would be running all three speakers full range without a sub. I had just auditioned the D4s and 5s and was impressed with how natural they sounded.

ericm83, I have D5 mains with a D4 LCR. They go together well; just last night I was listening to some 3-channel SACDs of orchestral music at very high volume, and the result was quite gratifying.


---


(David, I'm glad to hear the Decco's ringing isn't expected, because otherwise I love the Decco's sound. I'll contact you when I get the chance to arrange a swap.)

I went to a local dealer last Saturday and auditioned the D5's as I'm looking for a replacement of my Monitor Audio RS1's which are a pretty good speaker in their own right. So after hearing the D5's the first thing I noticed was the amount of base these little suckers put out. I really liked what I heard from them and they look fantastic. So I went back to the dealer today and brought my RS1's with me to compare. What I found was I liked both speakers but for different reasons. I felt my RS1's were lacking bass a little and this is where the D5's had them beat. As far as mid's & highs I preferred the RS1's, maybe because I'm used to them? You really have to turn the volume up on the D5's because they're such an inefficient speaker to really get them going. The RS1's are a little more bright compared to the D5's, which to me have a more laid back sound in the mid's & highs. I think ERA has done a great job with these speakers and I'm curious as to what the D10's sound like as I think I'm going to move to floorstanders. The dealer didn't have any to demo but right now I may just go with MA RS6's, which sound superb. Anyway job well done Dave & company!!!!

I have had a D4 setup for some time now, and I really love it. My room is about 3000 cubic feet. I use them for both HT and music, but only HT for loud volumes. I am debating to upgrade to the D5s. I would not do it for a fuller sound, as I am very happy with the musicality (if that is a word) I am getting now. I would only upgrade if the D5s can play noticeably louder.

So here is my long winded question... Crossed over at 80Hz, assuming proper amplification, can the D5s play louder before distortion sets in (I am more sensitive to the higher frequencies) than the D4s, and is the difference enough to worry about.

Thanks
Greg

I am very happy with the musicality (if that is a word) I am getting now. I would only upgrade if the D5s can play noticeably louder.
Crossed over at 80Hz, assuming proper amplification, can the D5s play louder before distortion sets in (I am more sensitive to the higher frequencies) than the D4s, and is the difference enough to worry about.

Thanks
Greg

Hi Greg,
The D5 will play louder as they are a little more efficient, but can take a good bit more power.
Personally, I like the D5 full range in HT or at most a 60Hz crossover point.
Best wishes,
David

What size or the threaded inserts on the back of the D4 Satellite speakers? it mentions 8mm in the literature, but I was thinking that it was the bottem thread.

I am looking for a wall mount to go with these speakers, but want to be able to aim them down and in. I saw that someon used the Omnimount 20, but they say that they are for 3/8-16 inserts and didn't seem to have wire management.

Anybody know of a mount that I could use for these that will allow down and toe in mounting, plus have provisions to hide the speaker wire. I saw some Peerless SPK811 mounts, but they didn't seem to allow for toe in of the speakers.

Thanks for your help. I did just buy the D4s and am excited to get them up and running.

The OmniMount 20 is the mount you need. The threaded insert mounts to a plate and the plate uses the supplied 8mm screw that connects to the speaker. There is no wire management to speak of, but your wire can easily be hidden and out of site in most cases.

Got to listen to my D4 for a bit last week. My god, they are even better at home. Can't wait to get them mounted up on the wall. Got the wire up into the ceiling. Wish I could afford to get a pair of the floorstanders and redo my HT.

I did get the Peerless and it is articulating with wire management.

I'm qute intrigued by the Era line of speakers. I was just wondering what people's feeling is for the D4 versus the D5 if paired with a sub for 2.1 sound. Since it was recommended that the D4 can and should crossed over at 60-70Hz which avoids sub localization problems, I'm not sure if it's worth paying an extra $300 if I don't ever intend to use them full range in 2.0 configuration. I'm just looking for an elegant looking stand mount speaker and my room isn't very big (9 feet away listening distance). I don't have problems driving the inefficient B&W CM1 so I don't think I would need the headroom of a larger speaker. Would it be worth it to pony up for the D5?

I'm qute intrigued by the Era line of speakers. I was just wondering what people's feeling is for the D4 versus the D5 if paired with a sub for 2.1 sound. Since it was recommended that the D4 can and should crossed over at 60-70Hz which avoids sub localization problems, I'm not sure if it's worth paying an extra $300 if I don't ever intend to use them full range in 2.0 configuration. I'm just looking for an elegant looking stand mount speaker and my room isn't very big (9 feet away listening distance). I don't have problems driving the inefficient B&W CM1 so I don't think I would need the headroom of a larger speaker. Would it be worth it to pony up for the D5?

Hi Warpdrive,
If you're crossing the speakers over @ 70-80Hz, the D4's will be fine.
With the D5, I actually like running them full range when using a sub. The roll off is gentle and tends to mate well w/ good subs around 50-60Hz.
Using stands with either will give better depth of field.
Hope this helps,
David

Solomon,

It's Eric from Domes in Virginia Beach... When are we getting the floor speakers???

I'm a little late to this thread, so I haven't read all 26 pages of posts! Looking for comments on the D4 and amplification. I have read that with an SPL of 84Db, the speakers are power-hungry (which makes sense).

I'm considering using the D4 in a surround setup (rather than a music-first setup), driven by a Cambridge Audio 540R v2: 80 Watts rms per channel, 8
ohms, all 6 channels driven.

I'm interested in comments from D4 owners, and Era Design, on how they are driving these speakers. Thanks.

hey Dave Solomon thanks for the answer.

Is there any way you can describe what I would gain in terms of sound quality if I went for a D5 instead of a D4 (both used with a sub).

Has anyone gone from the D5's to the D10?
If so what are your opinions?

Do any other Sonos users have an insight about volume control when using the Decco?

While I don't have the Decco, you can set the Sonos to 'fixed volume' output in the ZonePlayer's settings, so that what you get out, is what you put in (no bit loss).

Does anyone have pictures of their ERA D4s and D4 LCR wall mounted with a plasma screen. My new house only has one possible mounting location for my plasma TV, over my fireplace. I want to wall mount the D4s on each side and the D4 LCR beneath. My wife is objecting strenuously as she thinks it will look horrific. I promised to show her some pictures to hopefully calm her down. Has anyone done something similar?

Thanks

Drew

Long time lurker, first time poster...pardon the novel I've written below.

After hearing all of the raves about the D5's and getting a listen in the store, I finally took the plunge. I'm not exactly what you'd call an audiophile. My primary lure was getting good bass from a small cabinet since I don't have a good location for a sub or towers. The vast majority of my use will be moderate volume TV/DVD with some low to moderate volume music thrown in. I'm just looking for a nicer, fuller soundstage for movies and sporting events. (And I can't wake my kid up at night...)

I'm running this 2ch stereo as the room also isn't set up well for surround. I picked up the speakers before I had a receiver, and when I was out browsing, I stumbled upon a smoking deal on a Yamaha RX-V661 (7x90W) that I just couldn't pass up. I won't need the surround features now, but I like the upgradability.

I'm less than impressed with my meager system so far, especially with the bass. I've tried running them full range and crossed over at 40Hz and 60Hz, but there's not a big difference, which I guess isn't surprising given where they should naturally roll off.

I guess my question is this: am I expecting too much from these speakers given the relatively low volumes, or am I not feeding them adequate current/power with the Yamaha? I'm willing to take the Yamaha back for a beefier receiver or look for a used external amp to supplement it, but it's not going to be worth the trouble and expense if my problem is more inherent to my low-volume listening habits. Anyone else out there using the D5's in a similar setup that could provide some insight?

One more random note: I'm running these with 14gauge Audioquest X2 cable, about 12ft each. Just wondering if I could be starving them here as well or if this should be adequate.

Thanks in advance. I need all the help I can get...
Chris

A few suggestions.

1. Where are the speakers placed in relation to walls, and what are they sitting on?

2. More power will always offer better dynamics and bass response, I would suggest shopping for an external power amp and seeing if it changes your feelings. Shop used perhaps to offset cost and buy a good brand so that re-sale is strong if you are not happy.

3. Speaker wire is fine.

4. What acoustic treatments do you have and how is the room set up?

Thanks, Wes...

A few suggestions.

1. Where are the speakers placed in relation to walls, and what are they sitting on?

They're in an entertainment center behind some grill cloth. The cubbies they're in are about 20" wide x 15" tall x 20" deep.

2. More power will always offer better dynamics and bass response, I would suggest shopping for an external power amp and seeing if it changes your feelings. Shop used perhaps to offset cost and buy a good brand so that re-sale is strong if you are not happy.

Definitely considering that option

3. Speaker wire is fine.

Good to know. At least I didn't screw it up that way...

4. What acoustic treatments do you have and how is the room set up?

Room is about 20' x 20' with 16' ceiling. It's a very open floor plan, so there really aren't many well-defined walls. This room just bleeds into others through large openings and doors. The speakers are about 2' left and right of the TV and about 2' lower than the TV (the only place to put them). They're sitting on the little rubber feet that came with them, but nothing else.

Thanks, Wes...

A few suggestions.

1. Where are the speakers placed in relation to walls, and what are they sitting on?

They're in an entertainment center behind some grill cloth. The cubbies they're in are about 20" wide x 15" tall x 20" deep.

2. More power will always offer better dynamics and bass response, I would suggest shopping for an external power amp and seeing if it changes your feelings. Shop used perhaps to offset cost and buy a good brand so that re-sale is strong if you are not happy.

Definitely considering that option

3. Speaker wire is fine.

Good to know. At least I didn't screw it up that way...

4. What acoustic treatments do you have and how is the room set up?

Room is about 20' x 20' with 16' ceiling. It's a very open floor plan, so there really aren't many well-defined walls. This room just bleeds into others through large openings and doors. The speakers are about 2' left and right of the TV and about 2' lower than the TV (the only place to put them). They're sitting on the little rubber feet that came with them, but nothing else.

Speakers in an enclosed area is always a compromise. If you make that compromise you can pretty much expect a compromise in sound. Are those cabinets sealed on the back side, are the speakers pushed pretty far backwards so that there is wall surface in front of the tweeter? You may want to treat hose cabinets acoustically to help offset that less than ideal placement.

I would also try a pair of stands moved out in to the room just to see what kind of difference proper placement makes. Thus you can hear the difference.

I would try the above options before I bought an amp. Also consider researching acoustic treatments and see how they can be incorporated in to your room.

A better amp will help some, however the most important component seems to be overlooked here which is room acoustics. In a huge area you can expect decent bass response, but you are not going to be moved by it with small monitors. Granted they can be very impressive with good placement, proper room treatment, and good power.

Does anyone have pictures of their ERA D4s and D4 LCR wall mounted with a plasma screen.

Ask and you shall receive!!! :cool:

100307

100308

hey Dave Solomon thanks for the answer.

Is there any way you can describe what I would gain in terms of sound quality if I went for a D5 instead of a D4 (both used with a sub).

I really like both, but the D5 is more dynamic and will give you 10Hz lower bass bandwidth.
This will allow you to cross the sub lower making it less likely to localize.
Best wishes,
David

I really like both, but the D5 is more dynamic and will give you 10Hz lower bass bandwidth.
This will allow you to cross the sub lower making it less likely to localize.
Best wishes,
David

thanks....I might stick with the D4 then.

Do you guys who have the D4 use them on stands? Any particular stands would be a good fit for them? The speakers aren't very wide and they taper a lot so I'm thinking I need a stand with a narrower top plate. Would they look okay with a stand with a 6x6 top plate or is that too wide? What size top plate should I look for?

Do you guys who have the D4 use them on stands? Any particular stands would be a good fit for them? The speakers aren't very wide and they taper a lot so I'm thinking I need a stand with a narrower top plate. Would they look okay with a stand with a 6x6 top plate or is that too wide? What size top plate should I look for?

At David Solomon's recommendation, I just bought a pair of Definitive Technology ProStand 100/200 stands; the top plate on these is supposedly 3-15/16" W x 3-3/4" D.

Be careful, however: the ProStand 1000 does *not* accept the threaded mounting screw required for the D4's. Only the ProStand 100/200 will fit your speakers out of the box.

The stands aren't nearly as classy-looking as the D4's, but they definitely are better for sound quality than my previously on-the-mantle placement.

Finally got a chance to unbox our showroom demo D14's today. Whoa!...........These things are freaking gorgeous and they sound better than they look. Nothing I can think of even comes close to the D14. Bravo ERA.

Tony, what do you think of the Synchrony speakers (relative to the Eras)? We're getting close to having our remodeling done, so we need to start making decisions about what demo products to display. Want to keep it fair and representative between NHT, Era, PSB.

Bummer, looks like we lost all of yesterday's discussion about the D10s and D14s in the server crash. For the fellow Bostonian who was asking about them (sorry, I've forgotten your user name) -- Goodwin's High End emailed me this morning to say they now have both on display in their store if you want to have a listen.

Hey Hopstretch,

I think that was me. Great thanks for the heads up, I will stop by soon. I picked up my D5's there.

No worries. I was goofing off at work today so I went down there myself and spent a half hour with the D10s. They were somewhat smaller than I anticipated and really beautifully finished. Very pleasantly voiced, but I was surprised at how little bass extension they seemed to have, to the point that I'm still not convinced they were actually being run full range. (They were in one of the store's HT room setups, running off a processor.) After hooking up an Era sub, all was as it should be. I didn't have time to check out the 14s, hope to do so in the next few weeks.

Great!!! The server crash erased all my comments on the differences between the new ERA models, Dynaudio's, PSB's, etc. Ugh!

No worries. I was goofing off at work today so I went down there myself and spent a half hour with the D10s. They were somewhat smaller than I anticipated and really beautifully finished. Very pleasantly voiced, but I was surprised at how little bass extension they seemed to have, to the point that I'm still not convinced they were actually being run full range. (They were in one of the store's HT room setups, running off a processor.) After hooking up an Era sub, all was as it should be. I didn't have time to check out the 14s, hope to do so in the next few weeks.

It should be interesting to see how they compare to the D5's and a sub. If its close, I am staying where I am.

Great!!! The server crash erased all my comments on the differences between the new ERA models, Dynaudio's, PSB's, etc. Ugh!

would you mind repeating? not alot of user review regarding the new ERAs

OK.. Probably a stupid questing, but I have been accused of that before.
I am going to mount mt D4 with the supplied bracket to drywall. I'm not affixing it to a stud. What have people used to attach this bracket to the wall??

Looking for an opinion of Toggle bolts vs Threaded Drywall screws and how many. Seems like I should use two toggles or 3/4 Drywall Screws per bracket.

Thanks in Advance. I have one wire through the wall and hope to have the other done this weekend. After that I'm going to mount my D4s.

Charlie

Sorry for teh "read a page or two and jump to the end" but I am at work right now and I, well...... Anyway.

I am looking at the D3 and D4 speakers, but I can't seem to find them online anywhere. Does anyone have any information on retail shops they can recommend (I know you can't quote prices here) that sell this online? Pricegrabber and Froogle don't know "Era D3" or D4 from a hole in the ground.

Any information you guys have on this would be greatly appreciated!


Also, how do the D4's stand up with the Parasound mini V.3 Z-Amp? Just curious, as some posters have said you need the proper amp to get these speakers to sing.

TIA!

Those of you with D5's, are you running them large or with a crossover of 60/70/80?
David Solomon has recommended here to run them at large if possible, and I wanted to see what you have tried and what your thoughts are.

I run my D5s "large"/full-range, with my receiver additionally sending 100Hz or 60Hz and below to a Sub8, depending on which inputs I'm using. (Why oh why must SACD bass management be such a headache?)

Regardless, the low-pass knob on the sub is set to 50ish so that it will roll off right about where the D5 comes in.

I tried cutting off the D5s at 60 and at 80, and concluded that there was no real point to that; my open-floorplan room needed all the direct bass it could get.

Looking for an opinion of Toggle bolts vs Threaded Drywall screws and how many. Seems like I should use two toggles or 3/4 Drywall Screws per bracket.


Neither are a good solution to your application. But, if I had to choose it would be "toggles". They will give you a better displacement of the weight across the mounting point.


I am looking at the D3 and D4 speakers, but I can't seem to find them online anywhere

ERA is not sold online, they use a dealer network spread across the US. The brand is growing leaps and bounds and you should have a dealer near that can assist.

Also, how do the D4's stand up with the Parasound mini V.3 Z-Amp?

We are both Parasound and ERA dealers and we have used this little amp with all types of speakers including the ERA's. The Zamp is a little powerhouse and can handle either the D3/D4 with relative ease.

I was in a class yesterday for David's Decco and he had a pair of D4's with him for demo. Wow. Those little guys are impressive! They are solid speakers that are heavy for their size, flawless fit and finish and play incredibly low. It's hard to believe that they only have a 4" driver.

Nice stuff for sure!

I've paired D4s with an Onkyo 805 reciever and could not be happier. Recently, I upgraded my subwooder and noticed something odd when running test tones. The lower tones that go through the sub have no issue, but the higher tones (80 hz, 100hz) etc result in a buzzing sound from the D4s but not the sub. A couple of questions.

1. Is this more likely due to the reciever amplifier or an issue with the speakers.

2. Does anyone think I should be concerned about the speakers being damaged? Note that the buzz is only audible in close proximity to the speakers and something I would never notice in normal listening.

I've paired D4s with an Onkyo 805 reciever and could not be happier. Recently, I upgraded my subwooder and noticed something odd when running test tones. The lower tones that go through the sub have no issue, but the higher tones (80 hz, 100hz) etc result in a buzzing sound from the D4s but not the sub. A couple of questions.

Does it happen on both speakers?

Those of you with D5's, are you running them large or with a crossover of 60/70/80?
David Solomon has recommended here to run them at large if possible, and I wanted to see what you have tried and what your thoughts are.

Hi Chris,

What do you have yours set at? I recently upgraded from the D4s to the D5s. At first, I left them crossed over at 80, but last night, I tried them as large with the sub as "plus". As a point of reference, I have a Pioneer Elite 94 receiver and a JL Audio F113 sub. I am just starting to play with the settings, but so far, I like them as large, even thought it goes against the overwhelming advice on AVS Forum.

I will update later as I solidify things.

Does it happen on both speakers?

Yes.

Stills that's likely the porting. I notice that D4s really work hard in the lower registers and this is a lot more evident with test tones than with most music, remember, it's still a tiny speaker, herculean though it might sound at times. Crossing over a bit high will help. Of course, always make sure your binding posts are tight, that the grills are on tight, that you have some rubber feet on the bottom of the speakers, etc!

Keep in mind that I very definitely recommend crossover over D4s at 100Hz or higher, D5s at 80hz or higher. This helps to remove port influence and noise and lower distortion quite a bit. Of course, i recommend dual subs as well :)

Hi Chris,

What do you have yours set at? I recently upgraded from the D4s to the D5s. At first, I left them crossed over at 80, but last night, I tried them as large with the sub as "plus". As a point of reference, I have a Pioneer Elite 94 receiver and a JL Audio F113 sub. I am just starting to play with the settings, but so far, I like them as large, even thought it goes against the overwhelming advice on AVS Forum.

I will update later as I solidify things.

You know that's very interesting. I tried them crossed over at 60, 80 and full range. I think I do prefer them full range as well but plan on playing around a little more. I do agree that the overwhelming majority feel that full range is crazy and I never would have thought to try it, but with the owners suggestion I did and really like what I hear.

Hi Guys,
I wanted to share the original goals we had when designing the D4’s and 5’s. Hope this gives a little insight and help regarding the current crossover discussion on the board.
First, if you are lacking power or current, I do recommend crossing the speakers over as high as you need to suit the amp. Maybe 60-80 on the 5's and 70-90 on the D4. The higher you cross the speakers, the easier it is in the amp.
However, if adequate high-current amplification is used, I recommend the D5's be run in full range in most situations
Regardless of the power, this will limit the SPL a bit, but the added mid-bass slam and body is a sound I much prefer. When you hear or see our after-show wrap-up’s from the various press, the D5’s have always been run in full range. At CES, this is a 30x50 room.
Brent Butterworth found this to be true in his review of the D5 although he was very skeptical running them full range until he heard the system. http://www.hemagazine.com/Product-Reviews/Speakers/Refreshingly-Old-School.asp
Considering the D4 starts rolling off at 60Hz, a 20-30Hz higher crossover from this point is fairly easy for the driver unless you looking for maximum SPL.
From the beginning, the speakers were designed to be crossed over as low as possible so the sub would be less likely to be localized, a common problem with “small” multi-channel or stereo speaker systems.
So again, unless you're looking for max spl, try the D5 in full range. The D5 low end roll off is quite natural at 12dB/oct. Many HT receivers tend to chop the bass of @ 24-48dB/oct. w/ questionable quality crossovers to begin with.
Hope this helps.
David Solomon
davids@signalpathint.com

Keep in mind that I very definitely recommend crossover over D4s at 100Hz or higher, D5s at 80hz or higher. This helps to remove port influence and noise and lower distortion quite a bit. Of course, i recommend dual subs as well :)

Thanks as always! Can this distortion potentially damage the speaker?

It can, sure. if you run full range, you automatically get higher distortion and lower maximum output. Of course, having an automatic setup system like Audyssey helps because it makes it easier to get a good result. Set up properly, using the crossovers will sound better and that can take a bit more tweaking than simply running them full range and adjusting the sub only. But with a good auto setup system such as Audyssey, it's a lot easier. Also, in a large room as David describes, you need more mid and low bass to compensate for the room size. In a small room, you can easily end up with too much midbass. When you have a port, you're going to be adding out of phase information right in the middle of what a sub is doing. The full range thing may work better with Era subs however as they're down firing designs and that does make a difference.

Thanks as always! Can this distortion potentially damage the speaker?

Hi,
We have had one set of drivers blow since we opened the company, so I would say no.
Since the ports are tuned 10 Hz below the lowest resonate frequency of the drivers, we don't have much problem w/distortion. I typically find the most distortion is with the amp when it's being asked to drive harder than it's comfort level.
Best wishes,
David

So just to report back for anyone interested in the whole running the D5s as large thing...I listened some more last night, and I really like them as large. I am still tweaking, but I have the D5 L/R and D5LCR run as large with the subwoofer run as plus and crossed over at 80hz. Not perfect yet, as I had to calibrate my sub to 2-3 below my other speakers and the midbass is a TINY bit boomy, but much more full. Even watching tv last night (Medium which is a great show by the way), all of the male voices were more solid and deeper with authority than I have heard on my system before. I will continue to play and tweak (I can't help myself), but for now, very happy with the large settings.

I stand corrected ;)

I stand corrected ;)

Hi John, Not to confuse the issue, but I have heard many who prefer to run them limited range for a myriad of reasons.
At the end of the day, I say to each his own and depending on set up.
I have found very few absolutes in this industry but wanted to share the basic ideas and goals we had when in the design process.
I appreciate you sharing your own experiences as other do and will feel the same.

Best wishes,
David

I had some time this weekend and really played with different crossovers. I definately prefer the large setting for my D5's. Those who may not be in favor of the setting really need to give it a listen.
I did enjoy the crossover at 60hz, but found large to sound much more full and realistic. Your room and equipment may sound different. I suggest you experiement.

David -

Please forgive me if this has already been asked. What drivers are used in the D14's and do you have a frequency response graph of the D14's?

These speakers are really grabbing my interest! Any Era dealers in Wisconsin?

I plan on going to my local dealer soon to demo the D14's. They look very nice.

Anyone have any interest in buying some D4 satellites in rosewood w/ less than 2 hours on them?

David -

Please forgive me if this has already been asked. What drivers are used in the D14's and do you have a frequency response graph of the D14's?

These speakers are really grabbing my interest! Any Era dealers in Wisconsin?

I think University Audio on Park St. in Madison were Era dealers. I'm not sure if they still are, I haven't been in there for several years.

David -

Please forgive me if this has already been asked. What drivers are used in the D14's and do you have a frequency response graph of the D14's?

These speakers are really grabbing my interest! Any Era dealers in Wisconsin?

Hi,
The D14 bass drivers are the same as the D5 @ twice the impedance. The top is basically the D4. We also used air core inductors and Sonicaps in the crossover which made a huge improvements.
I don't have a freq curve, but they're pretty flat between 38-20k according to the measurements we took when voiceing them. We have University in Madison and Suess in Appleton. You can also go to our dealer locator and enter your zip. http://www.signalpathint.com/index.php/component/option,com_locator/Itemid,43/

Best wishes,
David Solomon

Thank you, David. I'm on a quest for the perfect speaker to my ears (see my signature), and your D14's have moved to the top of the audition list. I will call both the Madison and Appleton location to find out what models they carry. I don't suppose you'd know off hand, though?

So what are the D4 drivers then? Sorry, I just like to know what drivers were used. :)

So what are the D4 drivers then? Sorry, I just like to know what drivers were used. :)

The Era bass drivers are a custom designed driver, designed with input from Michael Kelly of Ariel Acoustics. You won't find this driver anywhere else. It's this fact that enables the Eras to overachieve in bass compared to other similarly sized speakers.

Thank you, David. I'm on a quest for the perfect speaker to my ears (see my signature), and your D14's have moved to the top of the audition list. I will call both the Madison and Appleton location to find out what models they carry. I don't suppose you'd know off hand, though?

So what are the D4 drivers then? Sorry, I just like to know what drivers were used. :)

I keep forgetting that everyone doesn't know our drivers LOL.
A few years ago we got Michael Kelly of Aerial Acoustics to design our drivers. The 4" (my personal favorite) is somewhat similar to the scanspeak, although it goes about 10Hz lower. Double spider w/long throw voice coil in a cast basket. Although it can reach to 60Hz, in the D14, we only ask it to go to 250 Hz, so the little guy is hardly taxed. I attempted to add a photo, hope it worked)
The tweeter motor is fairly common as is the Japanese Silk dome. What's not common the our baffle which was milled to minimize the all-to-common standing waves.
We also regard the cabinet as a critical part of the design, so we used 1"MDF W/ dual dadoed 1" braces w/in. This allows the drivers to work in a pretty inert cavity allowing most all of the bass energy to be useable.
University in Madison currently has them on display.
Hope this helps,
David Solomon

I keep forgetting that everyone doesn't know our drivers LOL.
A few years ago we got Michael Kelly of Aerial Acoustics to design our drivers. The 4" (my personal favorite) is somewhat similar to the scanspeak, although it goes about 10Hz lower. Double spider w/long throw voice coil in a cast basket. Although it can reach to 60Hz, in the D14, we only ask it to go to 250 Hz, so the little guy is hardly taxed. I attempted to add a photo, hope it worked)
The tweeter motor is fairly common as is the Japanese Silk dome. What's not common the our baffle which was milled to minimize the all-to-common standing waves.
We also regard the cabinet as a critical part of the design, so we used 1"MDF W/ dual dadoed 1" braces w/in. This allows the drivers to work in a pretty inert cavity allowing most all of the bass energy to be useable.
University in Madison currently has them on display.
Hope this helps,
David Solomon

Woohoo! Thanks, Dave! That's exactly what I was looking for.

So I guess I will be heading to madtown to give the D14's a listen.

You've been a great help, David.

Well let me know when your heading out for a listen...

^ Certainly.

looking forward to your impressions Nuance, I don't think too many have heard both the Era Towers and the Salks

even though there's somewhat of a large price gap between the two, I can see how many people would compare the two to eachother

The Salk's and Vandersteen 2CE Sig II's will be my reference speakers when I listen to the Era's. I think those two speakers are among the best in the $2000/pair or less category.

Just saw some pictures of the Era D14... i thought europeans knew how to design speakers... that finish is just out of this world. Any plans on distributing these nice speakers to Europe???

They look twice as good in person.

I have an NHT classic 4 5 channel set up powered by an NHT pre-pro and an NHT 5 channel amp. I love it for HT and some music but some of my 2 channel music is unsatisfying due to the clinical and cooler nature of the classic 4's. I have an extra NHT 2 channel amp that I can create a second zone for in the pre pro for a set of speakers. Im interested in auditioning the ERA D5's at my local dealer but I dont want to drag my amp and pre there unless Im pretty sure they will provide enough of a difference to my current system to warrant the trouble. For those that have these speakers, would you say they are on the warm side or cool side? From what Ive read of this thread they sound like spectacular music speakers without a sub and they look great. How do they sound when wall mounted?

The Era 5 is just a different critter. They have a lusher, richer, incredibly enjoyable midrange. The treble is just as present, but different being a soft dome. The 5s are definitely less clinical and more euphonic compared to the NHTs, so it sounds like you'd like them. i don't think I'd wall mount them unless you're planning on cutting out quite a bit of bass info. The D5s would certainly make a nice contrast to the NHT's sound.

thanks John, youve been a great help in my search for the right sound. I guess Ill have to pack up the controller and power5 and take them to the dealer for a listen. too bad I dont live in NM, would really enjoy visiting your shop...

Hey, thanks, though i don't know unplugging your system is that important. The D5s should sound similar on any good solid state amp. Just assume a warmer midrange and a sweeter (or somewhat more lossy) though just as present treble. You probably know how much I love the NHT Three and the Era D5 is one of precious few speakers that compete with it and are different in ways it seems like you would like.

I tell you what, these D14's are really impressing me and our customers. So much so I have elevated these in stature into our Dynaudio room and they now reside beside the Dynaudio Focus 220's. The Dyn is a bigger animal, but as an alternative, the D14's are very ear pleasing.

I'm quite taken back by the bass of these little guys too......Yes, I said little, they are not as large as you might think. You really need to see in person.

The finish is absolutely amazing for a speaker that costs so little.

Hello All,
Been reading this thread and got my interested peak. I am looking to replace my LR Rears. Current setup is

LR = Aerial Acoustic 7b
Center = Aerial Acoustics CC3b
Rears Mounted on Wall = NHT Super Ones

Pre/Pro = Integra DTC 9.8
Amp = Theta Digital Intrepid.

What would be an good upgrade from my NHT's? Any benefits upgrading to ERA D4 or D5s? Will my exisiting mounts work with D4 or D5s? Or any other recommendations?

Thanks
Kenny

I tell you what, these D14's are really impressing me and our customers. So much so I have elevated these in stature into our Dynaudio room and they now reside beside the Dynaudio Focus 220's. The Dyn is a bigger animal, but as an alternative, the D14's are very ear pleasing.

I'm quite taken back by the bass of these little guys too......Yes, I said little, they are not as large as you might think. You really need to see in person.

The finish is absolutely amazing for a speaker that costs so little.

Little is probably only caused by their curved sides or? Cause the dimensions quoted on their websited give about the same size (220's vs d14). What would you see as the biggest differences between these two speakers??

March 20, 2008
Hi Guys, I thought you would like to know that due to manufacturing costs, we had a price increase today on the D4 which is now $699, D4 LCR is now $599, D5 is now $999 and the D5 LCR is $799.
The tower/PL series/Sub8 and D3's will remain the same for now.

Trying to keep the "salesspeak" at a minimum, we still feel the value is among the best.
We hope you feel the same.
Best wishes,
David Solomon
era Acoustics

David,

Any suggestions to my post, what would be a good fit for my Aerials?

Thanks

David,

Any suggestions to my post, what would be a good fit for my Aerials?

Thanks

Hi Kenny,
While the Super 1 is a good speaker for the price, the D4 would match better. It's much closer in design and in voice.
Best regards,
David

I'm trying to decide between the Era D14's and B&W 683s. I wish the D14's had a piano black option. What are the full specs on the D14's as I didn't see them on the website?

David, last year you mentioned in one post here that Era was working on an in-ceiling speaker, but I haven't seen any mention of that since. If you can say, was that delayed, canceled...? Just curious since your other speakers have been such great sound for the $.

I'm trying to decide between the Era D14's and B&W 683s. I wish the D14's had a piano black option.

If you are trying to decide between the two, FWIW, I don't think B&W offers that finish either.

I have the D14's in Rosewood and love the sound of the speaker. It sounds much bigger than it actually is. As for it's looks......Top notch in every way.

What are the full specs on the D14's as I didn't see them on the website?

As a dealer of many brands including ERA my recommendation to you is to not judge a speaker on how it sounds to your ears and not get so caught up on specs IMHO. Now, if you cannot hear for yourself by all means look at the specs, but then again, they can be deceiving and it really can depend on your room, etc.

I see on the Era site that the D4 LCR is the recommended center to go with the D14s. I would prefer the size and drivers of the D5 LCR over the D4 LCR. Would the D5 LCR be a good match for the D14s?

Thanks, Bill

Just curious. Why not use the Ariel SR3's in the rear?

Hello All,
Been reading this thread and got my interested peak. I am looking to replace my LR Rears. Current setup is

LR = Aerial Acoustic 7b
Center = Aerial Acoustics CC3b
Rears Mounted on Wall = NHT Super Ones

Pre/Pro = Integra DTC 9.8
Amp = Theta Digital Intrepid.

What would be an good upgrade from my NHT's? Any benefits upgrading to ERA D4 or D5s? Will my exisiting mounts work with D4 or D5s? Or any other recommendations?

Thanks
Kenny

I think the SR3 are more than I want to spend.

I will be purchasing ERA 5's for my mains, but would also like a center speaker as we do a good bit of H/T on the weekends and the seating is off to the sides of the TV (not directly infront of the TV.) I've tried the phantom mode and it sounded like the sound was coming from which ever speaker I was closest.

I have a space above my TV that could house an ERA 5, but ONLY on it's side.
I also have a space below the TV that would fit a 4 LCR and be on the same listening level as the mains.

Suggestions/recommendations welcomed. Thanks.

Zeller74,

I've used D5 mains with a below-the-TV-and-slightly-angled-up D4 LCR, and the combo works fine, especially for movies. Be prepared to spend a few minutes fiddling with your receiver's settings until you've got it all nicely volume-matched - even though the D4 LCR is supposedly a little more efficient than the D5 sat, I found I preferred to run the 4LCR a notch or two lounder than the sats to keep the D5's fullness from overwhelming the dialog on movies. But that's just me and my room, your mileage will undoubtedly vary.

If you're into multichannel music, I prefer the D5 LCR to go with D5 mains; they form a really wonderful, continuous soundstage.

I have a question if Era matchs the veneer on a matched pair of speakers. I was looking a pair of demo D14s from a dealer and the pictures he sent shows the Rosewood veneer does not match each other. Maybe they were not a matched set but found it odd. Does Era match the veneers on speaker pairs?

Bill

This weekend I am listening to a 4 year old 7B/CC3/SR3 setup a friend will be selling. I don't have an understanding wife for the SR3's so I may be selling them.

I am building a 5.1 system in my family room. I am impressed with the reviews on these ERA speakers and the size is right.

I would like the 5's across the front and the 4's as surrounds. The problem is the front 3 will be in a cabinet. The rear port on these is a big concern. The cabinet the mains will be in is about 15" high, 12" wide, and 18" deep. The center will also be in the 18" deep cabinet with similar room around the top and sides.

Will there be enough space in a cabinet that size for the 5's? How would the 4's do? Is the real answer a front ported / sealed speaker instead?

Will there be enough space in a cabinet that size for the 5's? How would the 4's do? Is the real answer a front ported / sealed speaker instead?

Yes, that is a lot of space for the D5's and they should perform well. In a perfect world I prefer sealed designs for this type of application, but you can add some acoustical treatment to the back cabinet wall if you notice any problems.

The D5/5LCR/D4 system is outstanding, I highly recommend it. ;)

This is correct. Here's a little more detail.
The D4 acoustic-cutoff is 60Hz. In-turn, we have the port tuned to 50Hz, so in-cabinet won't really affect the speaker anymore than the cabinets resonate frequency(ies).
Cabinets always affect speakers, but there are methods to minimize this.
Unlike most, we use the port so the speaker can breathe, not to add bass. Even still, in a HT set up, I would cross the D4 at 80Hz.
With the D5, I usually suggest running them ful range, even in a HT set up, however, given the cabinet, there's no way to run them full range. They would be way to boomy in this situation. However, if you cross them at 70-80Hz, you will have the same situation as above w/ the D4 set-up. They'll just play louder and have more dynamic range capabilities.
I agree w/ Tony about stuffing the cavity. It will open the speakers and make them less localizable.
Best wishes,
David

I have a question if Era matchs the veneer on a matched pair of speakers. I was looking a pair of demo D14s from a dealer and the pictures he sent shows the Rosewood veneer does not match each other. Maybe they were not a matched set but found it odd. Does Era match the veneers on speaker pairs?

Bill

Hi Bill, we do veneer match. I can only guess the serial numbers are not the same on the dealers floor.
Good chance the dealer received a couple or more pairs of towers and did not check the sn's. Whoever bought the other mismatched pair should go back and exchange one for the matching sn. They look sweet when they're matched.
Best wishes,
David

David, last year you mentioned in one post here that Era was working on an in-ceiling speaker, but I haven't seen any mention of that since. If you can say, was that delayed, canceled...? Just curious since your other speakers have been such great sound for the $.
Hi Mark,
We have the in-ceiling about 90% done. It's just a matter of timing now.
We should be able to show them at Cedia in Sept.

Thanks for the quick advice. Now I just have to track some of these down.

A couple questions....I'm getting close to doing a major home theater overhaul and will be getting a 50-52 inch flatscreen, new speakers, blueray. The ERA designs 4s are one my finalists for speakers, along with Monitor Audio RS (apples and oranges I know). If I went with the designs 4s, is there much benifit to using 3 LCRs up front rather than 2 of the regular design 4s for L/R and 1 LCR up front? (FYI, I would likely be getting a sub as well). Second question is I was considering getting a 72 inch wide TV stand (cradenza type) and putting the fronts directly on the stand on either side of the TV. I'm a bit concerned that this may send too much vibration through the electronics over time and may shake things to pieces. I know the center speaker would be in the TV stand at a minimum, but would setting the fronts on the tv stand as well be a detriment to the longevity of the TV, receiver, etc rather than using stands of going with floor speakers for the front L/R?

Thanks in advance

SportX, the big difference between the D4 Sats and the D4 LCR is the LCR's provide more in which to love. ;)

The LCR's do sound bigger and provide more output if that is what you are after.

You will definitely want a sub!!! Surround sound isn't quite the experience without it. Both the ERA 8/10" subs do a fine job, have a small footprint and are very room friendly.

Your speakers have nothing to do with longevity or lifespan of your TV, receiver, etc. That is as long as you are connecting things appropriately. As for "shaking things to pieces", that is not likely to happen. I do, however don't recommend a DVD player be placed on top of a speaker or subwoofer. :(

Hope that helps! Let us know how your system sounds when you get them.

I've got a pair of D3 satellites on order and plan to mount them as rear surrounds. Earlier in the thread Dave mentioned that DefTechs, Omnimount, and Monster Mounts will all fit these speakers.

I've scoured the forums on this board but haven't found much opinion on the MonsterMounts. They're spec'd up to 8 lbs. and look fairly solid (though looks can be deceiving). Price notwithstanding, does anybody have a take on these?

I highly recommend the OmniMount for the ERA's. They have a very clean look to them and IMHO they are the best ceiling/wall mount out there. Actually, we use them exclusively for all mountable models we carry.

does anyone have this combo or heard it? I will be running this when my 5's arrive and looking for any input from those that may have this setup.

thanks.

New member and first-time poster here.

I just had to chime in to sing the praises of my Peachtree Audio Decco and era D5 speakers. I had read a small blurb in TAS last year and thought the Decco sounded like a terrific solution for my new home office (approx 16'x16'). I talked to Walter @ Underwood HiFi, he gave me the scoop on the Decco and also suggested the D5's as a complimentary speaker choice with the unit. After getting a great deal from him I received the gear and quickly set it up, connecting my MacBook Pro and 2TB of external HD's filled with 30,000 uncompressed music files via USB to the Decco. I also set it up wirelessly via my Apple Airport Express and a Wireworld Toslink cable but felt the USB connection sounded just a bit better.

All I can say is that I was blown away with how good the combination sounds. It's been up and running since early December '07, playing music (uncompressed, compressed and internet radio) roughly 5 days a week for 8-10 hours a day. Right off the bat I was impressed with the speakers generous bottom end (for its diminutive size), it's terrific mid-range and smooth, clear highs, not to mention its surprising transparency.

Whereas I was initially concerned with "only" 50W/channel driving the not super-sensitive D5's, I have come to know that the Decco really brings out the very best in these speakers, with no need whatsoever of adding a separate, higher-powered amp.

Finally, one quick comment on era's customer service. I had a couple of questions about set-up and called into SignalPath and actually got Dave Solomon in his car on his mobile phone, where he proceeded to easily answer all of my questions. Talk about availability!

I love my Decco and D5's and the only thing I'm considering adding is a sub but I don't want to take away from the terrific mid-range and continuity I'm hearing so I haven't quite pulled the trigger yet. I actually have been enjoying listening to my home office system more than the main system in my living room which consists of much more expensive gear (BAT integrated, Usher Be-718's and an Esoteric DV-50).

Sorry for the unabashed "love letter" but kudos to Dave and his partners for designing, manufacturing and marketing such affordable high performance audio gear for us lovers of music on realistic budgets.

Chris Johnsen

Sorry, I should have provided our spec sheet long ago.
Here it is.
David
I see on the spec sheet that the Design 3 Sat's have impedance of 4/5 Ohms. The back of the speaker that I borrowed from Audio Advice in Raleigh says 6 Ohms. Why the discrepancy and what does that mean regarding matching with a receiver. I have the YAMAHA RX-V1400 which can drive 6 or 8 ohms.

I see on the spec sheet that the Design 3 Sat's have impedance of 4/5 Ohms. The back of the speaker that I borrowed from Audio Advice in Raleigh says 6 Ohms. Why the discrepancy and what does that mean regarding matching with a receiver. I have the YAMAHA RX-V1400 which can drive 6 or 8 ohms.

I cannot speak to the discrepancy, but as an owner and a dealer of both Yamaha and ERA products. Your Yamaha receiver will have no worries with the D3 Sat's. Both products are excellent.

Most receivers are not spec'd to go below 6ohms, but that does not mean they cannot drive a 4 ohm speaker/s. Where receivers get into trouble is when all channels are being driven. When driving a difficult load for long periods of time, the receiver can run a little warmer than normal. On occassion and it depends on the speakers, a receiver can shut down. If this happens, then you know it's time to get a separate amp.

As with all speakers, separate amplification is ideal and you will get the most out of your speakers. Especially, at low volume level listening.

March 20, 2008
Hi Guys, I thought you would like to know that due to manufacturing costs, we had a price increase today on the D4 which is now $699, D4 LCR is now $599, D5 is now $999 and the D5 LCR is $799.
The tower/PL series/Sub8 and D3's will remain the same for now.

Trying to keep the "salesspeak" at a minimum, we still feel the value is among the best.
We hope you feel the same.
Best wishes,
David Solomon
era Acoustics

Hey the price of gold is through the roof also. I think your speakers are worth their weight in gold and they are some D@MN heavy bookshelf speakers!

Glad I picked up my D4 LCR for $300 when I did:D

I see on the spec sheet that the Design 3 Sat's have impedance of 4/5 Ohms. The back of the speaker that I borrowed from Audio Advice in Raleigh says 6 Ohms. Why the discrepancy and what does that mean regarding matching with a receiver. I have the YAMAHA RX-V1400 which can drive 6 or 8 ohms.

I used my D4 and D3 speakers with a Yamaha HTR-5790 and they worked just fine. You won't have any problems with the impedance.

I also got mine from Audio Advice. One of the best Audio shops I have ever been to. I have been meaning to get up there to check out the new ERA tower speakers. However, I know that I will want to buy them and the Tax rebate check isn't here yet!

To Tony, Don and others,
do you also agree about running the D4 LCR center with the amp on its 6ohm setting. The back of this speaker says 4ohms. I did not notice that all the speakers dont have the same rating. Thanks for all the help.

Pulled the trigger tonight. I ordered the D4's for the fronts, a D4 LCR for the center and D3's for the surrounds. I didn't get the sub just yet as I am debating on which one. I went into Entertainment Solutions tonight with intent of only listening to the Def Tech and Eras and ordered a set of Era's. I am no audiophile but to me these speakers sound amazing. Listening to a set of the D4's with no sub was unbelievable. Ordered in gloss black and can't wait to get them. Should I order an Era sub or any one else use something else with them? They will be powered by a Yamaha RX-V863 receiver.

.
The D4 acoustic-cutoff is 60Hz. .....so in-cabinet won't really affect the speaker anymore than the cabinets resonate frequency(ies).
Cabinets always affect speakers, but there are methods to minimize this.
Unlike most, we use the port so the speaker can breathe, not to add bass. Even still, in a HT set up, I would cross the D4 at 80Hz.
......
I agree w/ Tony about stuffing the cavity. It will open the speakers and make them less localizable.

I am looking at the D4's for front speakers with a D4 center.... to possibly be placed in a 31"h x 66"w "Chameleon" cabinet (#339) that has the center shelf (61w x 18d x 9h). I dont believe this shelf comes with grill cloth. What are the suggested methods to minimize the cabinet effect( if the open shelf does not permit the use of stuffing with acoustical material.)
David, is this arrangement a bad idea?
Thanks, Neil

Pulled the trigger tonight. I ordered the D4's for the fronts, a D4 LCR for the center and D3's for the surrounds. I didn't get the sub just yet as I am debating on which one. I went into Entertainment Solutions tonight with intent of only listening to the Def Tech and Eras and ordered a set of Era's. I am no audiophile but to me these speakers sound amazing. Listening to a set of the D4's with no sub was unbelievable. Ordered in gloss black and can't wait to get them. Should I order an Era sub or any one else use something else with them? They will be powered by a Yamaha RX-V863 receiver.

As much as I love the ERA D4’s and D5’s I am not sure that the Sub8 would be my first choice. Don’t get me wrong it is a wonderful product and if your budget is large then it definitely would be on the list. However, in my opinion the price is a little steep for my budget. I tend to lean toward SVS when it comes to a sub on a budget. The SVS PB10 is a great deal on the used market for less than $350. It is a rather large sub though.

Oh yea why did you go with the Yamaha RX-V863 and not the RX-V663 for half the price? $400+ seems like a lot to pay for upscaling, 1 extra HDMI input, and 1 phono input.

As much as I love the ERA D4’s and D5’s I am not sure that the Sub8 would be my first choice. Don’t get me wrong it is a wonderful product and if your budget is large then it definitely would be on the list. However, in my opinion the price is a little steep for my budget. I tend to lean toward SVS when it comes to a sub on a budget. The SVS PB10 is a great deal on the used market for less than $350. It is a rather large sub though.

Oh yea why did you go with the Yamaha RX-V863 and not the RX-V663 for half the price? $400+ seems like a lot to pay for upscaling, 1 extra HDMI input, and 1 phono input.

I got the reciever using American Express points so the price didn't hurt. Regarding the sub I am trying to find a decent compact sub. I had the SVS PB10 and it was a monster in size. It was awesome but it did not go over well with the wife. Anyone that recommend a good compact sub let me know. Thanks

I got the reciever using American Express points so the price didn't hurt. Regarding the sub I am trying to find a decent compact sub. I had the SVS PB10 and it was a monster in size. It was awesome but it did not go over well with the wife. Anyone that recommend a good compact sub let me know. Thanks

If size matters and price is not as big of a factor I would say the ERA Sub8 is a good choice. I have seen some go as low as $300 on ebay.

Yea my wife saw the SVS PB10 and just laughed. She said "I tell you what if you can fit that D@MN thing inside the entertainment center then you can keep it.

The picture below says it all! There is less than 1/8 of an inch clearance on the top!

If size matters and price is not as big of a factor I would say the ERA Sub8 is a good choice. I have seen some go as low as $300 on ebay.

Yea my wife saw the SVS PB10 and just laughed. She said "I tell you what if you can fit that D@MN thing inside the entertainment center then you can keep it.

The picture below says it all! There is less than 1/8 of an inch clearance on the top!

Unfortunately price is also a factor. I went over budget with Era's so I would like to keep the cost around $300 - $400. I still have to get a entertainment center as well. Boy this stuff adds up quick. Can wait till it is all in place though.

Anyone that recommend a good compact sub let me know. ThanksThere's another forum for subs with a lot of threads on the topic ... search for threads with small or compact or something in the title.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=113

Anyone that recommend a good compact sub let me know. Thanks

I recently listened to the Martin Logan Dynamo. It is very small, but packs a punch and sounds great with music and movies. It lists at $599, but I have seen it on Audiogon.com and eBay for less. Even at $599, its sound is really a bargain. I am strongly leaning toward getting one.

Does anyone know with the new prices announced in March for the D4 and D5 what is the price delta for the gloss black finish?

Does anyone know with the new prices announced in March for the D4 and D5 what is the price delta for the gloss black finish?

The D4's and D5's all went up $100 but the change for gloss black stayed the same. Old D4's and D5's in gloss black were $659 and $989 and went up to $759 and $1089

I don't know about the D5's but I just paid $759 for a pair of piano gloss black D4's.

Bought a never used Focal Cub2 sub on ebay the other day $300. I am hoping this will be a good sub to match with the Era's. I will be picking it up in the Chicago area tomorrow and maybe when I get back the Era's will be in. If so I will be one happy camper this weekend. :D

Earlier, David Solomon said that the inserts on the bottom of the D5 for stand mounting are 8mm. I tried an 8mm bolt but it seemed too large. I have tried several smaller metric bolt sizes and none seem to match the threads on the bottom of the D5. Does anyone have a specific example of bolt size that does fit?

I am going to be running the D4's as fronts, the D4 LCR as the center and the D3's as surrounds. My receiver can run at 6 - 8 ohms but not for individual speakers. Will the system run okay with the setting at 6 ohms for those speakers listed? It seems like there is such a difference between them it might be an issue.

Den, I've run all sorts of combinations of 5s, 5LCRs, 4s, 4LCRs, and 3s, using two different receivers, with no difficulties. One was a Pioneer receiver that could be set for 8 or 6 ohms, and I left it at 8. The other was a Rotel receiver with no 8/6 settings at all. No problems at all.

Earlier, David Solomon said that the inserts on the bottom of the D5 for stand mounting are 8mm. I tried an 8mm bolt but it seemed too large. I have tried several smaller metric bolt sizes and none seem to match the threads on the bottom of the D5. Does anyone have a specific example of bolt size that does fit?

Hi Mark, We have the 8mm screw packed in teh D5 box.
It's in a small white box. If you can't find it, let me know and I'll get you one.
Best wishes,
David

Hi Mark, We have the 8mm screw packed in the D5 box.
It's in a small white box. If you can't find it, let me know and I'll get you one.


Thanks, I finally found it.

Mark

just wanted to chime in and comment on what I am using to drive my D4s.

After having a terrible experience with an old receiver, I plugged in a new Audiosource Amp 200. Works like a charm and sounds about as good as my Musical Fidelity A5, which resides in another system.

I am using the set up with a squeezebox as the preamp, so the auto-on features and the gain control are nice.

I wanted to prove to my wife that I didn't need to spend big bucks and it worked out pretty well.

David,

I am looking at purchasing D5's for my Front speakers, D5's for my rear speakers and an LCR4 due to the width of my cabinet for my center channel and I was wondering what you thought of this configuration.

I currently have Emotiva's LPA-1 and LMC-1. The LMC one won't let me set the rear speakers to large, unless the center channel is set to large. Any advice?

Thanks!

David,

I am looking at purchasing D5's for my Front speakers, D5's for my rear speakers and an LCR4 due to the width of my cabinet for my center channel and I was wondering what you thought of this configuration.

I currently have Emotiva's LPA-1 and LMC-1. The LMC one won't let me set the rear speakers to large, unless the center channel is set to large. Any advice?

Thanks!
The configuration is really good. I don't really have a suggestion on the small/large processing. If it simply won't let you set the center to small and the sats to large...
I would try large first... If it's too much for the D4LCR, looks like you have no other choice than to set them small... This is typically 80Hz, however, if you can drop to crossover to 60Hz, it woul sound better.
Best wishes,
David

Hi,
We have had one set of drivers blow since we opened the company, so I would say no.
Since the ports are tuned 10 Hz below the lowest resonate frequency of the drivers, we don't have much problem w/distortion. I typically find the most distortion is with the amp when it's being asked to drive harder than it's comfort level.
Best wishes,
David

Dave,

FYI. I while ago I had mentioned that a light buzzing sound was coming from my D4s when playing low-frequency test tones ... it turns out this was not any speaker damage nor the fault of my Onkyo 805 recevier.

The buzzing disappeared when I removed the speaker covers.

Of course, this is not a big deal at all, as my concern before was only of speaker damage.

Still loving my D4s!

Dave,

FYI. I while ago I had mentioned that a light buzzing sound was coming from my D4s when playing low-frequency test tones ... it turns out this was not any speaker damage nor the fault of my Onkyo 805 recevier.

The buzzing disappeared when I removed the speaker covers.

Of course, this is not a big deal at all, as my concern before was only of speaker damage.

Still loving my D4s!
Thanks for the update.
David

Hi all,

Newbie here. I have been reading as much as I can find on era speakers the last few days. The D4 and D5 sound very compelling; I hope to audition them.

I can't help wondering where all the reviews of the D14 and (especially) the D10 are? I know that these speakers are relatively new but still...hoping someone out there can comment on them.

Been looking at upgrading my cheap JBL speakers for quite a while now and think I have settled on Eras. I am leaning towards D4s with a D4 LRC as center and D3 surrounds. My family room is fairly small (12x12ish) but is open across the back into the eating area and kitchen making it more like 12x36 (eight foot ceilings). Also placement options are slightly less than ideal (probably a little too close to the walls with the left channel a little closer to the TV than the right channel due to corner of the room placement of the TV) 50/50 music and movies at pretty moderate volumes as my wife and my two year old son (either awake or asleep) won't stand for much more. Not planning on using a sub initially, but may add an HSU VTF-1 at some point. Couple of questions before I make my decisions:

1. I would prefer to use an AVR rather than separates and am looking at getting a Marantz SR5002 to power the speakers as everyone seems to think that Marantz does music really well and that's probably my priority. Will that be enough power for moderate volume? It's a reasonable step up in price to the 7002 and a chunk of that really seems to be because of the added video processing which I don't want in the AVR.

2. I currently have a Yamaha RXV-1400. If I were to get the speakers first and hold off a little while on the Marantz, would the Yamaha do them some justice? Or should I just get the Marantz right away with the speakers.

2. Should I consider moving up to the D5s. Will there be significant musical differences for 2 channel music at moderate volumes? Will the center do movie dialog significantly better? Would I need something bigger than the SR5002 to drive them?

Feedback is greatly appreciated. I am getting excited.

Hi all,

Newbie here. I have been reading as much as I can find on era speakers the last few days. The D4 and D5 sound very compelling; I hope to audition them.

I can't help wondering where all the reviews of the D14 and (especially) the D10 are? I know that these speakers are relatively new but still...hoping someone out there can comment on them.

June 2008 D10/D5 Review
http://hometheatermag.com/floorloudspeakers/608era/

Hope this helps...

Before I heard and ordered 4X D5's and LCR4, I was sold on the B&W 704's... I prefer the Era's to the B&W's and the era's are literally less than have the price and a 1/4 of the size. Originally I started looking at bookshelf speakers 600's B&W's. I then wasn't satisfied, until I heard the 704's. I was about sold and then I was reminded that I should check out another store that had been good to me in the past... Needless to say I bought the Era's that same day! The range of the D5 is just insane! I could actually hear the plucking of strings during a Johnny Cash CD. The store only at 75w Rotel pushing the D5's but it was enough to change my purchase decision. As a side note had no idea of price when I was listening to them... I also hadn't read any of the reviews either. I hope this helps and I should be recieving my speakers this coming Monday.

They will be powered and paired with:
Emotiva LPA-1 Amp and LMC-1 Pre/Pro
Bluejeans 12awg w/ banana
Earthquake Mini-Me P8 (will be installed Monday)

After reading many reviews I have narrowed my choices down to the Era D5s and the AV123 x-statik.

Both speakers are supposed to give great depth of soundfield for both music and movies and after shipping they are the same price. I haven't been able to find any professional reviews on the x-statik yet, but anyone that mentions them on the AV123 forum loves them. Anyone that has heard the Era's love them as well.

Has anyone heard both and can give their opinion. I know speakers are very subjective but the closest Era dealer is 1 1/2 to 2 hours away, and AV123 is ID. So my opportunity to hear either is quite limited, especially since I don't want to pay the roughly $260 each way for the x-statik shipping.

My only complaint during my ordering of the ERA speakers is that it has taken about four weeks and a miss-shipment for me to possible receive them this coming Monday. Instead of Colorado, they ended up in California. I have been assured that will arrive on Monday and the dealer did offer their stock set of D5's as a stand in until mine arrived.

Loluli,
I would recommend making that 1 1/2 drive to listen to them, cause it would pretty much seal the deal. As previously stated these speakers stand up to some very stiff and higher priced competition. The D5's are the epitome of a smaller speaker being able to sound absolutely great! I have no knowledge of the AV123's performance... I too was looking at them and Axiom as well has the highly rated Emotiva speakers. I then went to another dealer and heard B&W's which at that point were amazing... Then I went to another dealer and heard the Era's which I preferred over the B&W's. So make a saturday/sunday or weekday trip out of it, take a lot of music and movies that you are familiar with and give these little puppies a spin. I hope this helps

I have the D4's as fronts, D4 LCR4 as center and the D3's as surrounds. They are being driven by a Yamaha RX-V863. They sound good but not as good as when I listened to them at the dealer. I have no idea what they were using to run them as I didn't even know to look at the time. Does anyone think adding an amp would improve the performance noticeably or would it be minimal? I would realy like them to sound as good as when I heard them at the dealer. I don't have a fortune to spend on the amp.

I then went to another dealer and heard B&W's which at that point were amazing... Then I went to another dealer and heard the Era's which I preferred over the B&W's. So make a saturday/sunday or weekday trip out of it, take a lot of music and movies that you are familiar with and give these little puppies a spin. I hope this helps

I will have to agree with this. My main HT setup is B&W Nautilus 804s driven by Rotel electronics. I have had this setup for several years, and been rather happy with it. For the past year I have had Era Design 4s and a REL R-205 driven by Musical Fidelity electronics. I have to say that I tend to prefer the era a bit for most types of music. Sure, there are some things the B&W does better, but overall I prefer the era sound most of the time.

I have the D4's as fronts, D4 LCR4 as center and the D3's as surrounds. They are being driven by a Yamaha RX-V863. They sound good but not as good as when I listened to them at the dealer. I have no idea what they were using to run them as I didn't even know to look at the time. Does anyone think adding an amp would improve the performance noticeably or would it be minimal? I would realy like them to sound as good as when I heard them at the dealer. I don't have a fortune to spend on the amp.

It is stated that their efficiency is tossed aside for the watts are cheap attitude. I would look into affordable beefy amps, such as the Emotiva line. So far my Emotiva setup has been one of my best buys ever... I am looking very forward to pairing my Emotiva setup with the Era's. I will let you know how it goes, I do know when I first heard them they were being pushed by a Rotel Amp/DVD combo that was pushing 75w per channel.

So you think there would be a significant difference. The Yamaha is rated at 105wpc but after reading posts here it doesn't sound like the recievers deliver the rated power when all the channels are driven. This is my first venture into some decent AV equipement so I am still learning. Learning that it is very expensive

I honestly don't know enough about your specific receiver

I have made two changes over the past year and noticed a drastic difference...

Replaced Yamaha RXV1500 with Emotiva LMC-1/LPA-1
16awg cable non-terminated to Blue Jeans 12awg terminated w/banana

These have been the two major changes I have made in the past year and they have been more than noticable. My RXV1500 starting having issues... It would power on for 15 seconds and then cutoff. Then a month later it would work just fine, so I pretty much just said forget this inconcsistency, I am going to buy a new reciever... After hearing both Denon, Yamaha and Pioneer $1200-1600 recievers not hearing any difference between them, I chose to check out Outlaw audio and Emotiva. I chose Emotiva based on specs and customer service. The company is great and the product is absolute bliss...

I will post more once I replace my Klipch Ref 10 series speakers with the 4xD5's, LCR4 and Earthquake Mini-Me P8. I can't wait!

Thanks for the information. Let me know how it goes.

These things look amazing! Let them begin their break in process... I forgot how tall the D5's were until I placed my surrounds and was like whoa! But they look so good that size doesn't matter. There was a mistake so I am still waiting on the D4 LCR, I received the D5 LCR instead which is just two big for my cabinet... I will keep you posted! But so far they sound great without being broken-in. They are very well packed in a double box setup. The cherry finish is even cleaner then I could have imagined! My Emotiva seams to being doing just fine with them, but I will provide more once I get the center channel. Hope this helps...

Dave,

What is the suggested break-in period for the D5's?

Thanks!
-Beau

I have the D4's as fronts, D4 LCR4 as center and the D3's as surrounds. They are being driven by a Yamaha RX-V863. They sound good but not as good as when I listened to them at the dealer. I have no idea what they were using to run them as I didn't even know to look at the time. Does anyone think adding an amp would improve the performance noticeably or would it be minimal? I would realy like them to sound as good as when I heard them at the dealer. I don't have a fortune to spend on the amp.

There is actually a review of your receiver in the July issue of Home Theater Mag... It might shine some light on your situation...

I personally am at around hour 20 with my D5's and they sound great! At about hour 6 I calibrated them to the room and whoa did that just make them sing... They provide so much detail... I pretty much have been alternating between Metallica, REM and Everclear all on DVD-A. Last night I left them on an A.M. Classical station pretty low.

I have the D4's as fronts, D4 LCR4 as center and the D3's as surrounds. They are being driven by a Yamaha RX-V863. They sound good but not as good as when I listened to them at the dealer. I have no idea what they were using to run them as I didn't even know to look at the time. Does anyone think adding an amp would improve the performance noticeably or would it be minimal? I would realy like them to sound as good as when I heard them at the dealer. I don't have a fortune to spend on the amp.

A better amp is certainly a worth the investment, you can use the pre outs on your yamaha to drive your amp. As for not spending a fortune, there are several options that don't cost a fortune. People have reported great success with Rotel, and used amps are available for a very reasonable cost. Also look to parasound used amps. If you want new, the same brands would be good, and I have heard emotiva is a good value as well.
I have not tried driving my D4s from a yamaha surround receiver (I have one acting as the processor for my B&W setup downstairs), but I did run them on a HK 3480 stereo receiver while waiting for my Musical Fidelity A5 int to arrive... It was 120WPC and better suited to the load than I think my yamaha is. It sounded great, but there is no question that stepping up to the A5 made a very noticeable difference. Good clean power is a must for most speakers, the eras are no exception.
While watts per channel are important for pushing volume, current is important for clean sound and good control of the speaker. You will likely find that any amp 100W+ will drive your speakers to perfectly good volume, and you should be able to find a used one for a very reasonable price which can do so cleanly.

Ok, so I put on "I Walk The Line"(Johnny Cash-The Legend of Johnny Cash) I can hear him pluck the guitar... That is how awesome these speakers are! I am at hour 25 on them. I can't wait on until my D4 LCR gets hear!

Dave,

What is the suggested break-in period for the D5's?

Thanks!
-Beau

Hi Beau,
Glad you like the D5's. They should start sounding really good after about 48 hours of hard play. After 100 hours, they're about as good as they'll get.
Best wishes,
David Solomon

David,

Thanks a lot for the information! Your level of involvement is impeccable and should be commended. I hope your product doesn't go to big box stores simply because of the lack of appreciation that would go along with it. The individuals that sell products such as yours should be passoniate about them. I personally have experienced this level of commitment by Audio Visionaries, Colorado Springs.

One of the thrills of having such a hobby is finding gems such as these that one can enjoy without breaking the bank! Your commitment to this great product is just one of the reasons I will continue to follow Era (Signal Path). Thanks again!

-Beau

I have the D4's as fronts, D4 LCR4 as center and the D3's as surrounds. They are being driven by a Yamaha RX-V863. They sound good but not as good as when I listened to them at the dealer. I have no idea what they were using to run them as I didn't even know to look at the time. Does anyone think adding an amp would improve the performance noticeably or would it be minimal? I would realy like them to sound as good as when I heard them at the dealer. I don't have a fortune to spend on the amp.

Hi den olano,

I have the D5's and was running them with a Marantz SR7002. I then got a used Parasound Halo A23 amp. The watt difference between the two is slight, with the A23 at 125w. The difference in sound though makes the purchase well worth it.
You can find some good deals if you look used.

ChrisCollins,

Are you using your Marantz as the Pre/Pro with the Halo Amp? I am currently looking at either D4s or D5s with a SR7002. How do you like the Marantz?

Maolq,
Yes I am using the SR7002 as the Pre/Pro and am really enjoying it.

Hello. I'm having to do a lot of "on-line spec sheet" shopping due to my location and could use a little subjective help. Has anyone done a side-by-side demo of the era D4's to the Dynaudio's 110's?

I have ACI Sapphire XL's and a Force XL in my living room. I don't know how to say this without being a fanboy, but they sound very musical and powerful. I do not regret the purchase one bit. Great for movies as well.

That being said, I'm looking for smaller speakers for my bedroom / home office. Size is a concern because I'd likely need to place them on my desk. I plan on sitting in front of a 32" 1080p LCD monitor/tv. Perhaps it would be nice to mount the speakers on the sides of the tv, but I don't know if this would work in a near-field environment.

From what I've read, the ERA D4's are looking good to me. Specifically because they are small, have great aesthetics and seem to sound pretty good.

I'd probably pair them with an NAD C372 or C355BEE. I don't need to play them extremely loud, just not strain them at a nice decibel level.... Would either of these work? I prefer integrated amplifiers and am not interested in surround. Are there other options I can find for less than $750? (Used prices too.)

I'm thinking of adding an Outlaw LFM-1 Compact sub because it's small and economical yet would add some punch. I don't want to go bigger than this, because I've got to place it underneath a smallish desk. Would this match well? Other good options for $500 or less?

From what I've read, the ERA D4's are looking good to me. Specifically because they are small, have great aesthetics and seem to sound pretty good.

I'd probably pair them with an NAD C372 or C355BEE. I don't need to play them extremely loud, just not strain them at a nice decibel level.... Would either of these work?

I 'in-store' demo'd the D4's and D5's satellites in a "bookshelf" configuration. I liked the D4s over the 5's - D5's had a fair amount of bass boom when close to a wall, the D4's did not & sounded very good. The store doing the demo used one of their Pioneer Elite AVRs (I think they used a -91THX, in 2-ch, rated 110W). As good as the D4's are you might need a small sub to extend the range...

One of the "big magazine" reviewer's reviewed the D4s & D5s over a couple of issues: apparently bought a pair of D4s for 2-ch use and uses a Pinnacle Baby Boomer sub.

I'm thinking of adding an Outlaw LFM-1 Compact sub because it's small and economical yet would add some punch. I don't want to go bigger than this, because I've got to place it underneath a smallish desk. Would this match well? Other good options for $500 or less?

I have the D5's and run them full range for 2 channel without a sub... For home theatre I have the Earthquake Mini-Me 8. This little guy provides a lot of punch and is very tight! It retails at $899, however I am sure a local dealer would be able to give a significant discount... My retailer gave me a little over $700 off of retail when I purchased my 5 speakers and sub... I use the Emotiva LPA-1 7 channel amp which is definitely in your price range, however it is a pretty big amp... Good luck, the Era speakers are very nice!

Greetings. I have been searching the web for information on what I should buy for my next upgrade in speakers for my surround sound system. I have settled on the Era D4's or D5's but I can't seem to find anyone who sells them. I am hoping that somebody will be able to tell me the best way to get a hold of the D4-LCR and the D4 satellites. I am from Kansas City and I don't think there are any dealers near by. One other question, can you get stands for these speakers?

I have ACI Sapphire XL's and a Force XL in my living room. I don't know how to say this without being a fanboy, but they sound very musical and powerful. I do not regret the purchase one bit. Great for movies as well.

That being said, I'm looking for smaller speakers for my bedroom / home office. Size is a concern because I'd likely need to place them on my desk. I plan on sitting in front of a 32" 1080p LCD monitor/tv. Perhaps it would be nice to mount the speakers on the sides of the tv, but I don't know if this would work in a near-field environment.


Innov8ion,

At the risk of sounding like a fanboy myself, I'll mention that the D4 is superb for nearfield listening, with stunningly good imaging and a very musically-balanced sound. For a while, I had mine flanking a 32" LCD monitor, and I found them extremely un-fussy about placement, stands, etc.

Either of the NADs you mention should have plenty of oomph to drive the D4s. If your room is small-ish, I'd also consider the Peachtree Decco integrated as a candidate for driving the D4s; not a ton of power, but more than enough for most nearfield setups, and sonically it feels like it was designed with the D4 in mind. Which, in a sense, it was.

Whichever combination you choose, I'd give the D4s some run time in your room before you go sub shopping, because you might decide you don't really need one - especially if this bedroom setup isn't for particularly loud listening.

-Hans

I would agree on the D4 for nearfield listening. Frankly I am hard pressed to find a speaker worth upgrading to for anywhere near that price. I have mine with 2 20" widescreen monitors in between and they sound great. I did have them wall mounted for a while before my new desk arrived and they really are less fussy about placement than most other speakers (D5s included). I would recommend a sub for them though. I originally heard them with a REL T3 which is just over $500 I think, and they sounded great. I ended up purchasing a REL R205 which might be a bit over your budget. As for power, the NAD should be plenty. I am driving mine with a Musical Fidelity A5 integrated and rarely have the volume past 9 O' Clock for nearfield listening. For a brief period I had them powered by an HK 3840 and it sounded much better than I expected.

Greetings.
One other question, can you get stands for these speakers?

In one of the earlier posts I think I read that David Solomon (Era Design) liked the Pro Cinema 100 stands from Definitive Technology (he responds to questions frequently so may correct this if I mis-read/remember). The store I demo'd the D4s in carry's Linn products as well and suggested the Katan stands as being a good match (a little pricier). The Linn website has pictures of them.

. I am from Kansas City and I don't think there are any dealers near by.

Showplace Theater & Sound 11717 S. 95th E. Ave Bixby OK 918.691.8359 www.showplacetheaterandsound.com

Looks like this is the nearest dealer at 4 1/2 hours away... I would recommend calling them first to ensure that they carry the product. If they do carry them, it is worth a saturday trip down there to give them an audition... Good Luck! :p

In one of the earlier posts I think I read that David Solomon (Era Design) liked the Pro Cinema 100 stands from Definitive Technology (he responds to questions frequently so may correct this if I mis-read/remember). The store I demo'd the D4s in carry's Linn products as well and suggested the Katan stands as being a good match (a little pricier). The Linn website has pictures of them.

I met David at a local dealer event, and he recommended the Sanus Ultimate Foundation stands for the D5. Not cheap, but tremendously sturdy and a perfect size for the D5. Per David's advice, I filled the stands with sand and used four little balls of blu-tak to 'glue' the D5 to the top plate.

Before getting the stands, I'd noticed that the D4 has better imaging, even in the farfield. The stands, coupled with wider placement, gave the D5 a farfield precision that's as good as the D4. (D4 still wins nearfield, though.)

Has anyone done a side-by-side demo of the era D4's to the Dynaudio's 110's?

As a dealer of both, we of course have and can. ;)

The D4 as gorgeous looking and sounding as it is has some disadvantages going up against the Dynaudio Focus 110. For one thing, the D5 compares more favorably than the D4. ERA and Dynaudio sound nothing alike. Part of the reason we have both lines. Which sounds better? Well, that is up to your own ears to decide. I will say, though. The Dynaudio 110 has a fuller sound, but it really should give the larger driver and cabinet design. Both have an excellent top end with the ERA having a more lively sound than the 110, which is somewhat laid back.

In one of the earlier posts I think I read that David Solomon (Era Design) liked the Pro Cinema 100 stands from Definitive Technology (he responds to questions frequently so may correct this if I mis-read/remember). The store I demo'd the D4s in carry's Linn products as well and suggested the Katan stands as being a good match (a little pricier). The Linn website has pictures of them.

Hi guys,
I'm not in love w/ the Def Tech 100's, but they fit the D4 and they're relatively stable. Still in love w/ the Sanus Ultimate Foundation though for the 5's...
How much are the Katan stands?
Thanks,
David

As a dealer of both, we of course have and can. ;)

The D4 as gorgeous looking and sounding as it is has some disadvantages going up against the Dynaudio Focus 110. For one thing, the D5 compares more favorably than the D4. ERA and Dynaudio sound nothing alike. Part of the reason we have both lines. Which sounds better? Well, that is up to your own ears to decide. I will say, though. The Dynaudio 110 has a fuller sound, but it really should give the larger driver and cabinet design. Both have an excellent top end with the ERA having a more lively sound than the 110, which is somewhat laid back.I have to say,I hear a lot less cabinet coloration from the D4,than the 110,and it has a slightly wider soundstage,and a much deeper soundstage than the 110.

Does any know the MSRP for the ERA flat panel speakers PL24 and PL28?

Does any know the MSRP for the ERA flat panel speakers PL24 and PL28?

Hi,
The PL24's are $600 ea and the PL28's are $700 ea. since we went to black gloss. Silver is $100 less ea.
David

As a dealer of both, we of course have and can. ;)

The D4 as gorgeous looking and sounding as it is has some disadvantages going up against the Dynaudio Focus 110. For one thing, the D5 compares more favorably than the D4. ERA and Dynaudio sound nothing alike. Part of the reason we have both lines. Which sounds better? Well, that is up to your own ears to decide. I will say, though. The Dynaudio 110 has a fuller sound, but it really should give the larger driver and cabinet design. Both have an excellent top end with the ERA having a more lively sound than the 110, which is somewhat laid back.

Hi - I'll start off by saying I really appreciate the time you spend & posts you've made (here and in many of the other threads). My situation is I'm relocating back to the US. I nearly bought some Dynaudio's locally at a great shop in Munich, but I haven't due to the upcoming move (potential for shipping damage & Customs/import duty...). I was in Seattle recently and had some free time and went to one of the local audio stores. I was able to listen to the era D4 and D5 satellites (and some additional product lines), but really liked the D4s (saying that, I think the D5s were too close to the walls, which adversely affected their bass). The Seattle store (where I'll be moving near) does not carry the Dynaudio line (it looks like there is a small specialty shop that carries the Dynaudio product for the Seattle area), hence the comparison question. If you're up for a couple more…

Could you comment on a Parasound A52 vs. a Sherbourn 7/2100A's ability to drive either of these speakers (I'm leaning toward stand mount only with a sub)? Any other amps in this price range I should be looking at? And finally (I guess that makes three vs. a couple), if budget goes against me, would an Integra 8.8 marry up to these speakers?
Thanks again!

Could you comment on a Parasound A52 vs. a Sherbourn 7/2100A's ability to drive either of these speakers (I'm leaning toward stand mount only with a sub)? Any other amps in this price range I should be looking at? And finally (I guess that makes three vs. a couple), if budget goes against me, would an Integra 8.8 marry up to these speakers?


No problem, I have a lot of fun trying to help people out. This is just as much a hobby for me as well.

Both amplifiers you've listed would have no problems driving the ERA's. The Parasound Halo's have long been a favorite of mine and IMHO they are the cream of the crop in their price range. A very neutral amplifier that adds nor takes away from what was intended. The Sherbourn amplifier has gobbs of power and we love their amplifiers. Especially, for HT applications.

I am an Integra fan, they make a terrific product. But, like most receivers, they like all others make sacrifices in their amplification section. The Integra would be an excellent pre-pro mated with either amp you are looking at. The Sherbourn matches the Integra looks as well if that means anything to you.

I just picked up a used Adcom GFA 7000 on ebay. Anybody have any experience running the Era's or any other speakers with this amp? I am hoping with the additional power it will improve the performence of the speakers. As I said earlier they sound good but not quite as good as when I demoed them.

I have the D5's and run them full range for 2 channel without a sub... For home theatre I have the Earthquake Mini-Me 8. This little guy provides a lot of punch and is very tight! It retails at $899, however I am sure a local dealer would be able to give a significant discount... My retailer gave me a little over $700 off of retail when I purchased my 5 speakers and sub... I use the Emotiva LPA-1 7 channel amp which is definitely in your price range, however it is a pretty big amp... Good luck, the Era speakers are very nice!

I'm using an Earthquake mini me 8 with my D4. Got an amazing deal on the mini me in an auction site. It's like a Sunfire super junior but less power full but i dont need 1000 watts of power anyway. I haven't tried testing my D4's in full range. Ive always set my speaker settings to "Small" since i've always had a subwoofer.

I have some brand new Design 5 satellites in gloss black for sale if anyone is interested.

Would a amplifier with a 200wpc rating at 8 ohms be too much for these speakers?

Would a amplifier with a 200wpc rating at 8 ohms be too much for these speakers?

Certainly wouldn't be too much. I run mine with a 250WPC Musical Fidelity A5.

Hi guys. Looking at upgrading my desktop setup and the Era's are on my short list. I'm assuming a pair of 4s would do nicely as nearfield monitors and was wondering how much power I'd need to drive them adequately at around 1m? Think I could get away with just a handful of watts from a small tube amp? Thanks.

Hi guys. Looking at upgrading my desktop setup and the Era's are on my short list. I'm assuming a pair of 4s would do nicely as nearfield monitors and was wondering how much power I'd need to drive them adequately at around 1m? Think I could get away with just a handful of watts from a small tube amp? Thanks.

Hi Hop...
If you do decide on a small tube amp, 20-25 wpc would do the job nicely, but I would also consider an outboard D/A because basic sound cards leave much to be desired if sound quality is your goal.

We’re betting big that there are, and will be many more like you! 8 hours a day in front of plastic speakers is simply not a great audio experience.

“High-end office" was one of the big reason's we produced with the Decco and it's perfect for the D4's. We think the market is almost limitless.
The Decco has 50 wpc w/ a built-in USB D/A converter so you don't have to worry about the sound card's lack of ability to actually sound good. I’ve been using this combo for some time now and it beats the pants off listening to plastic speakers (photo’s attached)
We use a 6922 preamp section that does a good job of smoothing out digital music. You can see it at www.peachtreeaudio.com
As always, please write or call if i can answer any questions or concerns.
Best wishes,
David Solomon

hey guys, thought I would check back in as I took measurements on all my speakers today.

I moved the ERAs into my main room and used a RadioShack SPL meter. I used my A5 to drive them.

The D4s were really tight in terms of response, and I would echo the comments you see on Stereophile. There is an emphasis and de-emphasis in these speakers. I think it's like a mid-bass slam/lower midrange de-emphasis. Stereophile talked more about the bump in high-frequency, but I notice the midrange more as being unusually "stable."

Anyway, I could tell these speakers were very precise. It seemed like the change in spl was intentional. I started to get linearity around 65 Hz.

By way of comparison, my Vandy 1s were just flat.

My Swans 6.1s were all over the map in a -3db then +4db kind of way. Not nearly the precision. They sound good though. Basically they were flat in a more disperse kind of way.

It was interesting to compare.

The ERAs live in the bedroom and their sound fits in well with the application. I really like them, but I think if I went with something new in the main room, I would want something a little flatter in the midrange.

Well,

The Adcom I bought did not function fully so it went back. I just got a used Outlaw 755. I am fairly excited to see how it works with the Yamaha RX-V863and the Era's. I am realy hoping the 200WPC will open these speakers up as my 863 is just not cutting it. I will post an update when I recieve it and hook it up.

Simple question....

Is anyone having problems getting into the ERA/Signalpathint website? I have been trying for about a week now both at work and at home (so this is not a firewall issue that I know of) and no deal. I can get to the main page, but as soon as I click on "find a dealer" or "era speckers" it says it cannot connect to get that page (it also does a bounce, so you have to go back two steps to get out of the loop).

Basically, I am looking for dealers, either Net or close to Hoboken, NJ (07030) that I can do some price comparison on. I did not want to bring THAT into here, as you are not allowed to post anything but MSRP's here (fear of advertisement phishing AND the fact that this site has dealer dollars helping fund it. Would not be fair, you know?).

I am looking for a set of D4 probably to supplant my AV123 Axiom Rocket towers I have for front (my new hutch set will not accomodate the towers).

The seperation is about 15 feet, with a 10 foot setback for the seating area (I know, wide). The speakers would be on the mantle level (open) and in the corners. the D5 sounds great, but I get the impression that putting them in a corner would cause too much reverb and be a problem. Any opinions? (BTW, the room is weird, it was an old 1908 row house, so the ceilings are high, the back wall is brick, and a small sitting room in the back of the living room is joined with it (making a squat L shape). I would probably be looking for the best direct sound possible......

TIA!

Works for me. It appears in your area, the dealers are Sound by Singer (http://www.soundbysinger.com/) and Harvey Electronics (several locations listed)

Thanks IO...

I was not having a problem with them the first time I posted (a few months back). I do not know what has changed in this area....

I guess I will have to schlep. Harvey moved out of the area next to my office and their website is "coming soon". And SbS has a site up, but it is mostly links (no $$).

>sigh<

You get used to shopping for so many things online (the price comparisons et all) and you get spoiled!!! ;) (I know you have to listen to get a good idea id they are right for you, but I have heard a lot from this thread about them to trust in a mid-level investment like this).

Thanks!

Just guessing here, but Era is like many of the other audio brands out there which have limited dealers in any given market, and you won't be able to shop around on the web or even on the phone. If you do get any discount from list, you will only do so by spending some time with the dealer. That said, you really need to hear the speakers to understand what you are getting for the money/form factor. I went with high expectations for a speaker of this size, and left amazed by what I had heard. Sure there are better speakers (and some day my D4s will be replaced by C1s), but none better in this size and certainly nowhere near this price.

[QUOTE=Ninjahedge;14384960]Simple question....

Is anyone having problems getting into the ERA/Signalpathint website?

I can't get on their site any longer either (been trying off & on for the last week or so). Hopefully they'll be back soon(?)

Is anyone having problems getting into the ERA/Signalpathint website?

I can't get on their site any longer either (been trying off & on for the last week or so). Hopefully they'll be back soon(?)

There is a translation problem when tryin to access the website via Internet Explorer. I have the same problem. However, I have no problems accessing the website via the Netscape Browser. A Microsoft issue....go figure! :(

Ahh, that could be it... I use Linux, so Firefox. It seems to work fine under Firefox 3.

It seems to work fine under Firefox 3.

No problems via Firefox here either. ;)

I have an old Pioneer Elite receiver rated at 110 watts per channel at 6 ohms. Can I get the most out of the D4 or D5 speakers with that receiver?

Thanks guys, I will try FF3 when I get home (I have both...)

I have an old Pioneer Elite receiver rated at 110 watts per channel at 6 ohms. Can I get the most out of the D4 or D5 speakers with that receiver?

It will certainly do the job, though I don't know that you will "get the most out of the D4 or D5". I don't think you will be unhappy with the performance, though later if you have an opportunity to add an external amp it will be a nice improvement.

Hi All. I’ve been lurking on the forum for the last week and have enjoyed reading and learning all about the ERA Speakers. Well, today I pulled the trigger and finally purchased two pair of the Design 4 satellite speakers, one Design 4 LCR center and the ERA sub 8 Subwoofer all in piano black. I have to say I’m so excited that I feel like a kid again. Anyways, I was hoping to get some advice on a home theater/audio receiver for these beautiful speakers. I am leaning towards the Arcam Diva avr350 but was wondering if I should go with something more like the Yamaha RXV-3800 because of some of the new whistles and bells like cinema DSP the latest hdmi 1.3a,YPAO auto setup Etc.. I will be using this for 60% home theater, 40% Music. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I was hoping to get some advice on a home theater/audio receiver for these beautiful speakers. I am leaning towards the Arcam Diva avr350 but was wondering if I should go with something more like the Yamaha RXV-3800 because of some of the new whistles and bells like cinema DSP the latest hdmi 1.3a,YPAO auto setup Etc.. I will be using this for 60% home theater, 40% Music. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

congrats, you will love the D4s. In my opinion (and I am sure many will disagree with me here) the best option is to spend a bit less on the receiver, and buy external amplifiers at least for the front sound stage. The main reason being that the receiver makes a decent pre/pro, but even at fairly high price levels cannot compete with a reasonably priced dedicated amplifier in current. Additionally the codecs and connectivity options in receivers are constantly changing. Amplifiers rarely change in any meaningful way. I have only replaced my amps once for my HT, going from a 2 channel version to a 3 channel version of the same amp to unify the front sound stage. I am on my 3rd receiver in the same setup which has brought me new codec support and connectivity (hdmi on the last upgrade) support.

In my opinion (and I am sure many will disagree with me here) the best option is to spend a bit less on the receiver, and buy external amplifiers at least for the front sound stage.

I agree with this. Amplification is the next most important thing after speakers. Even receivers costing as little as $550 sound decent when used as a pre/pro, the drawback is the amplification section in those receivers. Adding an external amp can greatly enhance the performance of your speaker especially at low to moderate volume levels.

Congrats on the speakers, the D4 system is fantastic.

Hey Guys,
Thanks for your replies. I agree this option makes more sense. I know it will initially cost more money upfront, but will definitely be a better system that will be upgradable in the future. Do you have any suggestions on which A/V Pre-amplifier/Processor and power amplifiers I should look at?

Is anyone running D4 sats as the mains with an REL sub? If yes, can you descibe your set-up (are you using the "Neutrik Speakon" connector running the sats as large, full range speakers)?

Is anyone running D4 sats as the mains with an REL sub? If yes, can you descibe your set-up (are you using the "Neutrik Speakon" connector running the sats as large, full range speakers)?

I am running a REL R-205 with the D4 sats as mains, but I am doing it in a 2 channel setup with the MF A5 integrated amp. In this setup I am running the Neutrik Speakon connector and the speakers as full range. Integration wasnt too tough, just took a few minutes with test tones and an SPL meter. The sound is excellent. If you need to run this in a HT setup as well as stereo you can run the RCA cable from the sub out and still connect the Neutrik. You can set the speakers to small, then use a "direct" or "pure" mode on your receiver to bypass bass management and run the D4 + REL as full range for music, but they will run as small for HT.

Is anyone running D4 sats as the mains with an REL sub? If yes, can you descibe your set-up (are you using the "Neutrik Speakon" connector running the sats as large, full range speakers)?

That setup works very well with the mains as large and the Neutrik cable tying in the sub. Like Iostream stated, you can have both the Neutrik cable connected and the LFE cable from the receiver/processor connected simultaneously so the sub will perform "double-duty" in your system for both 2 channel audio and HT use.:cool:

What exactly is the Neutrik?

It's a pro-audio type of airtight connector that uses 3 conductors (left +, right + and a ground or negative lead) for connecting components together. The REL's, from the baby Q108E all the way up to the $10,000 Studio III have this type of connection as a standard way to tie the subs to your mains or other speakers such as a center channel rears, second zones, etc.

http://www.neutrik.com/us/en/audio/204_184671/Cable_Connectors_productlist.aspx

If I can answer any questions, please feel free to email. davids@signalpathint.com
Best regards,
David Solomon
Era Speakers
Signal Path International
Everyone, please post your questions about ERA speakers in this forum so everyone may benefit from the discussion.

I have the opportunity to trade in my D5's for a new set of D10's. I have a fairly small room (12' x 20') and not sure how well they would fit or if they are worth the price increase.
Has anyone here made the jump from bookshelves to the floorstanding?

Is Era D4 worth 50% price premium over Epos ELS3? Both speakers are highly rated in audio press and Web reviews. I understand that Era fit and finish is quite a bit nicer, and that for many people this fact alone would justify the price difference. However, based strictly on sound quality for HT applications (in combination with matching LCR based center speakers), is Era worth the price premium over Epos?

Also, I read somewhere that Era team plans to introduce redesigned D4 (presumably with improved crossover) sometime soon. Does anyone know when exactly? Thank you.

Where did you hear about a redesigned D4? That interests me.

I am the very satisfied owner of a Decco + D5s set. The D5s are sitting on my desktop and I am looking for short speaker stands (6-10" high) to raise them to ear level but that kind of items seems to be rather rare. I've seen a couple of near matches from Wood Technology but the top plate is a bit small.

Does anyone know where to look? Thanks!

Where did you hear about a redesigned D4? That interests me.

OK, I found that thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12381715&highlight=#post12381715

They are expected in early 2009.

Thanks sdv5. Maybe David could provide us with the status of any planned D4 modifications.

OK, I found that thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12381715&highlight=#post12381715

They are expected in early 2009.
Nice find but that information is about ten months old. I wouldn't count on it being accurate unless there is further mention from the man himself.

I am the very satisfied owner of a Decco + D5s set. The D5s are sitting on my desktop and I am looking for short speaker stands (6-10" high) to raise them to ear level but that kind of items seems to be rather rare. I've seen a couple of near matches from Wood Technology but the top plate is a bit small.

Does anyone know where to look? Thanks!

Can't help w the small stand. When I use D5's on the desk, I use two spikes on the front. This works well, but if given the opportunity, the stands sound like a great idea. Not only would you get them at ear level, but if the stand is good enough, you could decouple them from the desk. This is the reason (other than size) that I use the D4's on the desktop....still w/ spikes.
Best,
David

I am planning on getting some D5's for a home theater and am looking for a good, high-end receiver that still has all the bells and whistles (e.g., HDMI 1.3a, latest audio formats, etc.). Since I haven't heard anything about any new Arcams, I was looking at the new Rotels. The RSX-1560 has Class D power and the RSX-1550 has Class A/B power. Would one work better than the other? Are these good receivers for the D5? Anything better?

Thanks.

Ireplay,

The RSX-1550 looks like the successor to the RSX-1067. I've got the 1057, which is the 1067's little brother (75W/ch class A/B), powering D5s up front and D3s in back. It's a great receiver with a clean, open sound, and it drives the Eras very well (with a caveat!), and it has plenty of reserve punch for surround-sound explosions.

The caveat is that you have to feed the Rotel good power. If you plug the Rotel into a power filter that limits its current draw (whether a $50 Panamax or a $1000 Transparent), you won't be getting the most out of it. My house has very strong, very clean power, and plugging my receiver straight into the wall yielded a much better sound. I eventually got Rotel's own RLC-1040 (which is really a re-badged APC product), which gave me gobs of plugs while still sounding as good as a straight wall plug.

I just purchased two pairs of era D4's and the D4 LCR. I need speaker stands for the two front speakers. I know that some people are using Def Tech's pro 100 stands, but they are too high for my listening position. I am looking for stands with the following qualities:

1. Metal and fillable
2. 28" - 30" in height
3. Top plate 5"' x 5" or less (so the speakers hang over the stands)
4. The speaker can be attached to the top plate

I found the Sanus EF-28 which seems to meet the above criteria with the exception that it is not fillable. I am worried about the kids and dogs knocking the speaker stands down. I also found the Sanus NF-30 for which you could purchase a 4.5" x 4.5" top plate. However, the stand is MDF and I saw some negative comments about it splitting during assembly.

Any help would be appreciated!

E-mail me, I had to have some speaker stands customized for the small NHTs but should be ideal for the D4s. I'll measure the top plate in the meantime. gloss black? john@adnm.com

Can't help w the small stand. When I use D5's on the desk, I use two spikes on the front. This works well, but if given the opportunity, the stands sound like a great idea. Not only would you get them at ear level, but if the stand is good enough, you could decouple them from the desk. This is the reason (other than size) that I use the D4's on the desktop....still w/ spikes.
Best,
David
I ended up with a pair of these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OONBZ8

Too wide, but the right height and depth..

I just purchased two pairs of era D4's and the D4 LCR. I need speaker stands for the two front speakers...

Check out www.standsandmounts.com (http://www.standsandmounts.com). I ended up getting the 30" Plateau metal stands for my D5 speakers. They have a 6"x6" top plate, so that is too large for the D4's, but they have lots of other stands of various heights and configurations. I had to drill new holes in the top plates to match up with the holes on the bottom of the D5s, but I really like the stands.

Is Era D4 worth 50% price premium over Epos ELS3? Both speakers are highly rated in audio press and Web reviews. I understand that Era fit and finish is quite a bit nicer, and that for many people this fact alone would justify the price difference. However, based strictly on sound quality for HT applications (in combination with matching LCR based center speakers), is Era worth the price premium over Epos?

Also, I read somewhere that Era team plans to introduce redesigned D4 (presumably with improved crossover) sometime soon. Does anyone know when exactly? Thank you.

Hi sdv,
This is a great question and the comparison will apply to many less expensive designs although the ELS3 is among the better inexpensive designs.
While the epos is a fine value, these are two totally different speakers in almost every way from construction to parts.
The epos uses an aluminum tweeter that has a 3-4 dB peak at 1k and a 6dB peak at 20k... Some really like a response like this and is sometimes seen or mistaken as detail. However on a recording that may be hot on the top, it will likely lead to ear fatigue after a short while. The epos tweeter uses a neodymium magnet like we do in the D3 to save money and space. The D4 uses a custom soft dome tweeter and very large magnet to keep the tweeter in-gap and to make it more linear at louder levels and above all be smooth. It has no audible, measurable peak or break-up from where it starts to where it ends. From a design stanpoint, you have to be very careful because 1" dome tweeters tend to have a peak somewhere regardless of materal, so you really have to purpose to have an accurate (flat) response.
The epos cabinet is rectangle shape where the era is curved back to combat standing waves inside and out. We also use a full 1" MDF for the cabinets w/ a dadoed 1" brace in the middle inside to prevent cabinet resonance.

Epos recommends removing the grill for the best image. We blanket the grill so the removal of the grill is not necessary.
Finally the era's are all real wood veneer as opposed to vinyl and we use very high-end binding posts. All of these things add up but we felt them all necessary to acheve the level of performance and cosmetics we were looking for.
Sorry so long winded but thought you should know most of the differences.

I'd also like to address the D4 "upgrade rumor". This, by the way, I started after doing the D10/D14 crossover w/ Jim and Danny...
After much consideration and listening, we've decided to keep the D4 as is for now...
We are very partial to their sound and feel that the improvements discussed prior would be negligible at best. If there is going to be a change, I promise I will let you guys know first.

Hope this helps you make a more educated decision.
Best wishes,
David Solomon

Hi David,

I think I already know the answer, but it there any chance you produced any of the D10s or D14s in Sycamore? I have a sycamore D5 system, and would hate to sell all of my speakers in order to upgrade to the tower fronts.

Thanks
Greg

Hi David,

I think I already know the answer, but it there any chance you produced any of the D10s or D14s in Sycamore? I have a sycamore D5 system, and would hate to sell all of my speakers in order to upgrade to the tower fronts.

Thanks
Greg

It pains me to say no... Sycamore sales fell off a couple of years ago and we decided not to produce any of the towers in this finish. We still have some
D4/5's and LCR's but when they're gone, sadly there will be no more.
David

The epos cabinet is rectangle shape where the era is curved back to combat standing waves inside and out.

Hi David.

Pardon this ignorant question, but I haven't a clue. How is it that curved walls combat interior and exterior standing waves? Doesn't a curved cabinet also generate standing waves, only changing their nature? I'd appreciate a little education on this if you have the time.

Hi David.
How is it that curved walls combat interior and exterior standing waves? Doesn't a curved cabinet also generate standing waves, only changing their nature?

Hi Mudslide,
This is a long reply, but I couldn't think of a way to say ot shorter and even still there's a lot more that could be added. For those reading that may not understand the effects of standing waves or what they are…here’s a little background on “audio” standing waves. Standing waves are secondary reflections that bounce along a surface derived from an original sound. The echoes or reverb in a big empty room is a good example… The more the reverb (standing waves), the harder it is to localize or pinpoint the original sound source. The sound literally bounces from wall to wall and along the same wall many times making it hard to figure where that original sound is coming from.
In this case, we speak of drivers and a speaker cabinet. The more standing waves that are present on the baffle and or sides of a speaker, the more the image will be smeared. This will mostly affect the midrange and upper frequencies since they have the shortest wavelengths.

Having said this, a curved cabinet on the outside continually redistributes and denounces standing waves since there are an infinite variety of side dimensions. If you’re stating that they don’t actually disappear, you’re right, but they do lose their intensity and original direction when they’re not traveling on a flat surface allowing the speaker to be more of a point source and image better.
Another remedy we use is to blanket the grill inside on either sides of the tweeter, so when there is a flat surface, we absorb the wave instead of displace it. This is opposed to a non-treated flat surface which encourages standing waves… as many times along the surface as the frequency bandwidth measures.
To cut down on internal standing waves, the speakers have no parallel surfaces thus naturally displacing the waves… We also use two types of fabric inside to further absorb the waves that are displaced.
Imaging and depth of field was a major design goal when we started era, and as you will read in every review and most comments, we've achieved this goal. This is the main reason we chose to build the cabinet in the rounded shape.
This principal is widely accepted by many fine speaker designers. To make sure I was explaining this correctly, I ran this by Michael Kelly and he agrees totally with this statement and principal. You can also go to Thiel white papers if you want a more mathematical explanation. A few other companies that follow this principal that you may know are Sonus Faber, Gallo, Magico, Krell and B&W to name a few. Hope this helps.
Best wishes,
David

Hi Mudslide,
This is a long reply, but I couldn't think of a way to say ot shorter and even still there's a lot more that could be added. For those reading that may not understand the effects of standing waves or what they are…here’s a little background on “audio” standing waves. Standing waves are secondary reflections that bounce along a surface derived from an original sound. The echoes or reverb in a big empty room is a good example… The more the reverb (standing waves), the harder it is to localize or pinpoint the original sound source. The sound literally bounces from wall to wall and along the same wall many times making it hard to figure where that original sound is coming from.
In this case, we speak of drivers and a speaker cabinet. The more standing waves that are present on the baffle and or sides of a speaker, the more the image will be smeared. This will mostly affect the midrange and upper frequencies since they have the shortest wavelengths.

Having said this, a curved cabinet on the outside continually redistributes and denounces standing waves since there are an infinite variety of side dimensions. If you’re stating that they don’t actually disappear, you’re right, but they do lose their intensity and original direction when they’re not traveling on a flat surface allowing the speaker to be more of a point source and image better.
Another remedy we use is to blanket the grill inside on either sides of the tweeter, so when there is a flat surface, we absorb the wave instead of displace it. This is opposed to a non-treated flat surface which encourages standing waves… as many times along the surface as the frequency bandwidth measures.
To cut down on internal standing waves, the speakers have no parallel surfaces thus naturally displacing the waves… We also use two types of fabric inside to further absorb the waves that are displaced.
Imaging and depth of field was a major design goal when we started era, and as you will read in every review and most comments, we've achieved this goal. This is the main reason we chose to build the cabinet in the rounded shape.
This principal is widely accepted by many fine speaker designers. To make sure I was explaining this correctly, I ran this by Michael Kelly and he agrees totally with this statement and principal. You can also go to Thiel white papers if you want a more mathematical explanation. A few other companies that follow this principal that you may know are Sonus Faber, Gallo, Magico, Krell and B&W to name a few. Hope this helps.
Best wishes,
David


Thanks, David. I can definitely visualize that the redistribution of waves via a curved surface can affect sound reflections and their concommitant standing waves...especially outside the cabinet. That they are mathematically minimized...I guess I need to read the white papers.

Your comment about talking with Michael is interesting as apparently Aerial is FINALLY coming out with a curved cabinet. :) Being an Aerial 7B owner....I wonder why he waited so long. :confused:

By the way, your company's speakers are lovely!!

Thanks again for the information.

Mud

It pains me to say no... Sycamore sales fell off a couple of years ago and we decided not to produce any of the towers in this finish. We still have some
D4/5's and LCR's but when they're gone, sadly there will be no more.
David

I had planned to buy some Sycamore D4s in a few months, but it sounds like they may be gone by then. Are there plans to replace Sycamore with another light-colored finish? Or will there just be rosewood and cherry?

Your comment about talking with Michael is interesting as apparently Aerial is FINALLY coming out with a curved cabinet. :) Being an Aerial 7B owner....I wonder why he waited so long. :confused:

By the way, your company's speakers are lovely!!

Thanks again for the information.

Mud

Hi Mudslide,
I certainly don't want to start rumors about the Aerial design and since Michael just improved the 7B and 20T, I have had no indication that he's changing his cabinet design in any way as he deals with these problems a different way. IMHO, Michael has some of the best sounding and built speakers in the industry the way they are now. He's also one of the truly great designers of our time and thankfully remains a great resource for our small company.
Best wishes,
David

Hi Mudslide,
I certainly don't want to start rumors about the Aerial design and since Michael just improved the 7B and 20T, I have had no indication that he's changing his cabinet design in any way as he deals with these problems a different way. IMHO, Michael has some of the best sounding and built speakers in the industry the way they are now. He's also one of the truly great designers of our time and thankfully remains a great resource for our small company.
Best wishes,
David

We've already seen pictures of the 7C...and lovely it is!

But allow me to ask, David...how well would you suggest that ERA center/surrounds would blend with a pair of 7B's in a home theater application? (This was suggested to me by another member because of Michael's involvement in both designs.) I assume you've heard the 7B's and can comment on the voicing/timbre of the respective speakers.

Thanks again.

We've already seen pictures of the 7C...and lovely it is!

But allow me to ask, David...how well would you suggest that ERA center/surrounds would blend with a pair of 7B's in a home theater application? (This was suggested to me by another member because of Michael's involvement in both designs.) I assume you've heard the 7B's and can comment on the voicing/timbre of the respective speakers.

Thanks again.

Yes I have and really like the balance and general nature of the 7B. I assume you have limited space for a center?
Never thought of it but I'd bet it would be a pretty good sonic match in the midrange and up. It would be a combo I'd like to audition anyway.
Let me know if you do this, okay?
Best wishes,
David

Any advice on best options between D4-5 or the PL24 when it comes to on wall placement over a fireplace. I'm looking at 48" from floor for the center chanel and 5' 6" for the left and right to place them in center of 47" TV. My best option for seating is 12' from wall. Room size is 15'x13' with the TV etc. on the 13' wall. One other option is a shelf with all the D4-5's the same 48" height along the top of firesplace. But TV would be still be above all speakers. Just a little worried on placement of speakers so high off floor. Only wall choice in room for TV. Thanks in advance if anyone has opinion. Floors are hardwood.

Thanks


Bill

Any advice on best options between D4-5 or the PL24 when it comes to on wall placement over a fireplace. I'm looking at 48" from floor for the center chanel and 5' 6" for the left and right to place them in center of 47" TV. My best option for seating is 12' from wall. Room size is 15'x13' with the TV etc. on the 13' wall. One other option is a shelf with all the D4-5's the same 48" height along the top of firesplace. But TV would be still be above all speakers. Just a little worried on placement of speakers so high off floor. Only wall choice in room for TV. Thanks in advance if anyone has opinion. Floors are hardwood.

Thanks


Bill

Hi Bill,
I have a similar set-up in my den. Plasma over the fireplace w/bookshelves on either side if I understand you correctly.
Here are the options: Both the D4 and PL24/28 are made to go close of be mounted to the wall. Thi sis the way we voiced and tuned them. The D5 would not be suitable as it really needs a little room behind the cabinet or you could have too much mid-bass...
At this point, the choice should be between the D4 on the bookshelf or the PL speakers mounted beside the plasma...They both sound very similar, however the PL's will have more output.
Also, the PL's will allow more versatility in their placement in that you can tilt them down and toe them to get a better on-axis response.
Best wishes,
David

Thanks for the answer David. Your passion for your products is shown in your willingness to help your customers, present and future.

Bill

I am looking to get a center channel to go along with my D5's. I have a pretty small room and sit about 8ft from my TV. Has anyone had any experience with the D4 LCR instead of the D5 LCR?

HunterBailey,

I sit 8 feet away from my speakers, in a room that's wide one way and narrow the other. I started with D4 mains and a D4 LCR, then replaced the Mains with a D5. The combo worked just fine.

When I eventually upgraded to a D5 LCR, I found it to be a worthy upgrade - especially since I listen to a lot of multi-channel SACD, so having an evenly-matched front set was a big deal for me. But if I'd never done the upgrade, and left the D4 LCR in the middle, I'd probably still be happy with it.

Hi,

Has anyone paired the D5s with a integrated tube amp??

I've demoed the D5 with a SS Arcam A32 and thought the soundstage and 3D effects was good. My setup will be a 2.1 for music and movie..more music. I want to avoid having a center channel for movie. Having never ventured to the other side(tubes), I wonder if the soundstage will be better??

HunterBailey,

I sit 8 feet away from my speakers, in a room that's wide one way and narrow the other. I started with D4 mains and a D4 LCR, then replaced the Mains with a D5. The combo worked just fine.

When I eventually upgraded to a D5 LCR, I found it to be a worthy upgrade - especially since I listen to a lot of multi-channel SACD, so having an evenly-matched front set was a big deal for me. But if I'd never done the upgrade, and left the D4 LCR in the middle, I'd probably still be happy with it.


Thanks hansandersen,

I thought I had read that the D5LCR and D4LCR were voiced the same so I didnt know how much difference there would be if I crossed them over at 80hz.

Good point about the crossover, at 80Hz there might not be much difference, expecially if you spend some time fiddling with relative volume levels to get a perfect match.

I was running the D5s full-range, and the D4LCR crossed at 60, with a SUB 8 playing 60-and-down from all channels, but with the volumn knob cranked well down. Once I got the D5LCR I started running it full-range as well - still with the sub. Bass-tastic, I know, but I like it :)

I run my D5's large, but wouldnt be able to run the center large. I was hoping the D4LCR would be ok if I wasnt running it large

I've been following this thread for a short while, and read through the whole thing. I understand the general consensus is that a decent separate amp will improve the performance of the D4s over an equally rated (wpc) AVR. Is this performance benefit mainly at higher volumes? Or do you notice a difference at lower levels as well?

I listen mostly to HT at low-medium volumes. How should I expect an AVR like the Onkyo 606 to drive the D4s? The manufacturer power rating is 90wpc into 8 ohms from 20-20k Hz with 0.08% thd. But Home Theater Magazine's measurements rated it at 81 wpc into 8 ohms with 0.10% thd driving 5 channels (I won't use more than 5 channels). I guess it's clear that this won't play the D4s very loudly. But how will they sound if I'm not trying to go loud? Will I get the low freqs that people are so impressed with from these speakers? And how well would the Audyssey Dynamic EQ help?

BigAWL, the D4 are pretty inefficient speakers so they demand a lot of power but at the same time they aren't particular hard to drive. You didn't specify your room size, but I'd expect the Onkyo would be able to handle them in a small-medium room at low to medium volume without running out of volume or dynamics. As far as sound quality, the more an receiver has in reserve, the cleaner and more detailed the sound. This is regardless of the rated power because those ratings/measurements only show how it handles a pure test signal.

As long as your room is small, I think it's worth a try. I'd consider moving up a model like the Onkyo 706 or 806 if it was me.

I've been following this thread for a short while, and read through the whole thing. I understand the general consensus is that a decent separate amp will improve the performance of the D4s over an equally rated (wpc) AVR. Is this performance benefit mainly at higher volumes? Or do you notice a difference at lower levels as well?

I listen mostly to HT at low-medium volumes. How should I expect an AVR like the Onkyo 606 to drive the D4s? The manufacturer power rating is 90wpc into 8 ohms from 20-20k Hz with 0.08% thd. But Home Theater Magazine's measurements rated it at 81 wpc into 8 ohms with 0.10% thd driving 5 channels (I won't use more than 5 channels). I guess it's clear that this won't play the D4s very loudly. But how will they sound if I'm not trying to go loud? Will I get the low freqs that people are so impressed with from these speakers? And how well would the Audyssey Dynamic EQ help?

The 606 should be more than enough for the D4's. I have a pair on a Yamaha 663 on my PC now and the setup was in my living room system before that and they could easily play to room-filling levels. It won't play to IMAX levels but you should be fine.

BigAWL, the D4 are pretty inefficient speakers so they demand a lot of power but at the same time they aren't particular hard to drive. You didn't specify your room size, but I'd expect the Onkyo would be able to handle them in a small-medium room at low to medium volume without running out of volume or dynamics. As far as sound quality, the more an receiver has in reserve, the cleaner and more detailed the sound. This is regardless of the rated power because those ratings/measurements only show how it handles a pure test signal.

As long as your room is small, I think it's worth a try. I'd consider moving up a model like the Onkyo 706 or 806 if it was me.

Thanks for the responses. My current listening area is about 14' x 19' x 9', but it's a living room that also opens onto a large kitchen and sun room, so there's a lot of contiguous volume. Then again, I move around every 2 years or so for work, and never know what my next room will be like.

I'm seriously considering the 706 since it adds the pre-outs in case I decide I want a separate amp in the future. I'm also considering Denons, but the first pre-out model is a bit more expensive. I also haven't found any independent measurements of their wpc ratings to compare to the Onkyos. For the price range of those two lines, I like the availability of Audyssey EQ systems, and in particular the Dynamic EQ. Has anyone used Dynamic EQ with the Era speakers?

One more question (for now). I don't feel the need for a lot of base, so I'm looking at first buying the sats (D4s), center (D4 LCR) and surrounds (pair of D3s) without a sub. Considering I listen primarily to HT (80%) but still enjoy full-sounding 2-channel music once in a while (20%), what would be a smarter purchase down the line? Would I benefit more from a budget-level sub ($600-700) or a budget-level separate amp ($600-700).

I run my D5's large, but wouldnt be able to run the center large. I was hoping the D4LCR would be ok if I wasnt running it large

I was wondering the same thing. If the D4LCR and D5LCR were both crossed over at say 80hz, I dont think there would be much difference.
Any thoughts?

Should I purchase this? After 30% cashback, the price is reasonable.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=130261093705&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=003

I had a chance to listen to the D5LCR and the D4LCR this week. Run full range, the D5LCR sounded fuller. Crossed over at 80hz, the way I would run it at home, the dealer and I could not tell the difference. I came home with the D4LCR and just got around to setting it up. I was just playing the Dave Matthews Live at Radio City Blu-ray and it sounds great.

I currently have a D5 mains, D5LCR center and D4 surrounds in Sycamore. I am in my new theater, and I am thinking it might work out better putting my speakers on-wall. If you have a pair of D4's and a D4LCR in Sycamore and are looking to upgrade, I might be willing to trade for my D5 and D5LCR. If you have another color in a complete D4 5.1 setup, I might be willing to trade all 5 speakers for your 5.

Let me know. I am still on the fence with this, as I love my D5s, but I might be easily persuaded.

Thanks
Greg

Regarding the D4's with an Onkyo AVR: Sound and Vision did a 706 review this month and noted that at 4 ohms the AVR power dropped to around 35 watts out (they did a similar review of one of the higher end Onkyo/Integra models (don't remember which one) noting the same power (protection) decrease in output (roughly half the rated output power <current limiter>).

Given the D4 spec sheet - should the Onkyo be set a 6 ohms or 4 ohms when using these speakers? Thx.