After getting and reading questions concerning mounting a PDP on drywall I decided to post this thread as a guideline. Naturally, people’s setups will be different, I am just relaying what I have learned.

Basic Tools You Will Need:
Drywall Saw/Utility Knife
Stud Finder
Level
Electricians Fish Tape (http://www.smarthome.com/images/9066lbig.jpg)
Tape Measure
Drill
Drill Bit (depends on size of lag bolts)

The first thing you need to decide is where you want to place the unit and where the STB’s are going to be located. Mine are right underneath the plasma so I’ll relate my experiences as they pertain to that. Be aware, placing the unit on an exterior wall (ie one with insulation in it) will be more difficult than an interior wall if you plan on running the wires inside the wall space. Once you find the wall that you want to place the unit, you need to find the studs for the lag screws (I used 3/8x2½” to account for the thickness of the drywall the mount and to still get a good “bite” into the stud). I highly recommend that you find the studs in the wall first as not every mount will be setup to account for offsets from the center of the wall. There are mounts available that you can adapt so that the unit will still be centered even if the studs do not line up that way.

Once you find the studs, I would then recommend that you cut out a template from a piece of cardboard the size of the panel that you are getting to be able to get the proper height of the display. For example, we have a peerless flat wall mount, the holes for the screws that go into the plasma are 6 ½” from the bottom of the display. I wanted the bottom of the display to be at ~ 40” for the center of the unit to be eye-level. Just take 40” and add 6 ½” to it and you’re pretty close to the height that the mount has to be placed on the wall for the PDP to be at the level you prefer. Make four holes in the cardboard template to make marks on the wall where the lag screws will go for the mount ensure that these holes line up with the mount. Place the cardboard template at the height you want (make sure it’s level) and mark the holes on the wall over the studs.

Now you need to decide if the wires are going inside the wall or on the outside. If on the outside, there are wire/cable management raceways available that will attach to the wall with a cover that snaps into place. If the wires (NOT POWER) are going to be run on the inside of the wall you will then need a drywall saw/utility knife to be able to cut holes in the sheet rock. Every mount I have seen will have punch-outs in the sheet metal for the owner to run the cables. Line up your mount with the screws and trace the opening that you have decided on for the cables then using the level make another hole at the bottom of the wall. To pretty up the holes you can use two low voltage in-wall cabling boxes and Leviton Modular Wall Plates (http://www.smarthome.com/8559.html). They make inserts for these wall plates for composite, RCA, telephone, etc. They look very professional.

NOTE: You should not run the power cord inside a wall cavity as it is against NEC and can be a potentially dangerous situation, not to mention that you will probably void your homeowners insurance if something were to happen. Posters have gotten around doing this by either having installed/installing a “clock outlet” behind the plasma mount and getting a shorter power cord or running a wire conduit on the outside of the wall and putting the power cord through that to the wall plate. Mine is run down the outside of the wall in a raceway with the video cables on the inside of the wall.

Get ready to mount the mount, sorry about that one, by pre-drilling the four holes for the lag screws (if using 3/8” dia screws use a ¼” drill bit for the pre-drilling). Make sure you go deep enough but not too deep as you don’t want a hole all the way through the stud. Put the mount up and hold in place by using a lag screw in opposite corners. Don’t tighten at this point as it’ll be easier to line up the other holes. Once all the lag screws have been turned in a tad, tighten ‘em down. Screw the mounting bolts that came with the wall mount into the panel, take off the handles and have someone assist you into lifting onto the mount. It should drop down a tad to lock the mounting bolts into slots on the mount. Hookup the cables/power and finish everything off (hook-ups to STB's installing wall plates, etc.)

That’s about all there is to it. It really isn’t that difficult. Probably the most difficult part is making sure the mount is level and at the correct height. You could run romex to the clock outlet if you want the power cord to be hidden without using a raceway. But I leave electrical work to a qualified electrician...something about volts scares me. ;)

Hope it helps.

Rich

Rich, nice write-up. Should be very helpful to those that have not yet mounted theirs.

Here is a tip for finding the center of the studs.

After locating the stud locations with a stud finder, you will need to ensure that you are mounting into the center of the studs. An easy way to do this is as follows:

Tools:
Hammer
Finishing Nail
Pencil

Using the finish nail, hammer this nail into the wall partially until you hit the stud. Pull the nail out and move to the side about 1/4 inch and repeat. Continue to do this until you hammer the nail into drywall only and you will know that you are no longer in front of the stud. Do the same on both sides. Find the center between the two holes where you nailed into nothing but drywall and mark with the pencil. Now you can be confident that you are in the center of the stud and not off to one side where you could risk splitting the wood.

You should do this in an area that will covered by your mount so you wont need to patch and paint.

This may seem like overkill but is a quick and easy way to ensure that your plasma wont be falling to the floor anytime soon. The instructions for my mount were very specific that I was going into the center of the stud. Considering the diameter of the lag screws, I wanted to make sure I did follow that instruction.

For a few more walk-throughs (with pics) click here (http://www.plasmaextreme.us/guide.htm)

Excellent instructions.

Can you post a picture of your plasma wall mounted and the raceway for your cables and power cord.

"NOTE: You should not run the power cord inside a wall cavity as it is against NEC and can be a potentially dangerous situation, not to mention that you will probably void your homeowners insurance if something were to happen"

Yes, it's against the NEC, but NO, it won't affect your homeowner's insurance unless they can prove a fire started in your TV's power cord, which is extremely unlikely if you use care in installing it.

One consideration that I encountered that I don't believe has been mentioned is power surge protection...

Without mounting, all your A/V, including your TV would naturally plug into a power surge protector extending from the wall outlet...But if you mount your TV on the wall and install a clock outlet on the wall for the TV, then there's not a way to protect you tv from power surge...

One way to get around this dellima is to install a power surge protected, hospital grade outlet where your current outlet is and tap of that source for your clock outlet as well.. so now your protecting your a/v components with a surge protector and still getting protection for your TV thru the clock outlet on the wall..

Originally posted by Mike4HDTV
Excellent instructions.

Can you post a picture of your plasma wall mounted and the raceway for your cables and power cord.

Thanks guys. :D

My cables (interconnects) run in the wall, the power cord is the only one in the raceway...pics in my gallery [edit: it's here (http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php?photo=11864&size=big&sort=1&cat=502). You can just barely see the raceway running down from the middle of the screen.]

Originally posted by steuert
Yes, it's against the NEC, but NO, it won't affect your homeowner's insurance unless they can prove a fire started in your TV's power cord, which is extremely unlikely if you use care in installing it

I said "if something should happen" and should have clarified with "if something should happen that would cause the power cord to start a fire". FWIW, I do know of posters who choose to ignore NEC, I'm not one of them though. :)

RE: Power surge protector

Yup, forgot about that one...it's also one of the reasons I chose to not do the clock outlet gig. I have a Tripplite (LCR 2400, it's a surge as well as power conditioner) that the plasma (and everything else, except the receiver) is plugged into. FWIW, I also have a whole house surge protector installed as well. Can't have enough protection is my credo. ;)

Also if you're running a dedicated outlet (I had one done) you can get a surge protection breaker and insert that in your electrical panel.

Getting ready to mount mine as well. Planning on running all the cords through the wall.

The power cord I plan on running through some flexible conduit (metal) that I'll snake through the wall behind the panel and coming out a few inches north of the outlet.

I too have a surge protector/line conditioner I want to have my plasma run through, and don't want ANY cords showing.

Will let you know how it goes.

I ended up putting my TH-42PD25U power cable in the wall. I considered installing an outlet and surge protection, but the extra time, difficulty and expense led me to the route I chose - now it just plugs into my surge protector with the rest of my components. I mean, really - one way or the other you have a cable in the wall delivering electricity to the plasma. What difference does it make whether it's the unit's power cable or a piece of cheap contractor grade electrical wire? At least with my method there aren't even any exposed electrical contacts inside the wall like there would be with an outlet.

TH-42PD25U (http://home.comcast.net/~p.iott/plasmaclose.jpg)

Ahhh, but the outlet is supposed to be housed in a high-voltage electrical box...not just hanging on the sheetrock.

But if you're happy with it, and it sounds like you are, then that's all that matters.

I'm just giving a little advice for those who may be looking.

Originally posted by rmcgirr83
Ahhh, but the outlet is supposed to be housed in a high-voltage electrical box...not just hanging on the sheetrock.


I know, but I have to make myself feel OK about it somehow! ;)

Actually I'm not worried about mine at all. I was in my house almost every day while it was being built and I know exactly what is in that part of the wall(nothing but insulation). I ran the speaker wire in there before the sheetrock was up. I can totally understand others not being comfortable with it, especially if you have an older house or are not sure what is inside the wall.

And before someone asks why I didn't just have the outlet installed during construction - I thought it was going to be a lot longer before I got a plasma and didn't want an electrical outlet in the middle of my wall for that long. The price and performance of the Panasonic won me over much sooner than I thought.

I am looking at buying either the Pannasonic TH-50PX25U or the Sony KDE-50XS955. Once I get the tv I want to wall mount it. I have seen a number of sites which sell Plasma wall mounts.

Does anyone know if I have to be sure and buy a plasma mount which is specific for the make/model of the tv? I have seen Sony selling plasma mounts for the KDE-50XS955, but the price is around $400. I see aftermarket mounts for around $150.

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks

Some mounts are specific to the model of the plasma...some are universal.

The aftermarket mounts are just as good, it's sheetmetal not processors. ;)

Excellent write up Rich! :)

-JR

Nice thread here for mounting plasmas, certainly enjoyed reading and viewing everything.

Anyone have any idea how to do the same with plaster walls? Stud finders will not work unfortunately....

I am trying to avoid mounting to the A/V furniture if I can. TV is too low on the table stand.

Originally posted by jedwards
Anyone have any idea how to do the same with plaster walls? Stud finders will not work unfortunately....

I am trying to avoid mounting to the A/V furniture if I can. TV is too low on the table stand.

Search and Ye shall find (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=487663&highlight=plaster+walls) ;)

Great thread on mounting.....Just what I needed for my installation.

Yup. Great thread rmcgirr83. :) :) :)

Thanks again guys.

:D

its gonna be hard to tell from the pitcure from camera phone...but i have run the HDMI cable and AC cord down a PVC pipe through the wall...I think this does not violate any code...cause the wires are in the PVC cavity...any feedback?

I may be wrong, but I think that you would be ok if it is electrical pvc, usually grey in color and not just the standard white used for water.

I bought the visio plasma and went down to CC to get a monster surge protector (ht700 1850 joules). The sales clerk? advised me that it is not wise to plug any plasma tv into a surge protector unless it is the $300 version specially designed for plasma t.v.'s? He said it had something to do with the plasma needing to be heated and needing a direct power connection.

I bought the plasma to save money and now this is throwing a huge wrench in my plans.

Does ANYONE have any knowledge on this subject?

My house has decent power but is in a rapidly developing area and the good ole power company keeps knocking out the power in the area.

Please HELP!

Originally posted by mwofsd
I bought the visio plasma and went down to CC to get a monster surge protector (ht700 1850 joules). The sales clerk? advised me that it is not wise to plug any plasma tv into a surge protector unless it is the $300 version specially designed for plasma t.v.'s? He said it had something to do with the plasma needing to be heated and needing a direct power connection.

I bought the plasma to save money and now this is throwing a huge wrench in my plans.

Does ANYONE have any knowledge on this subject?

Yes, ignore what the sales clerk told you.

FWIW, I have my plasma plugged into a Tripplite LCR 2400 and it seems to become "heated" :rolleyes: just fine. FWIW, the Tripplite is designed more for network applications than for HT.

Originally posted by halo0
I ended up putting my TH-42PD25U power cable in the wall. I considered installing an outlet and surge protection, but the extra time, difficulty and expense led me to the route I chose - now it just plugs into my surge protector with the rest of my components. I mean, really - one way or the other you have a cable in the wall delivering electricity to the plasma. What difference does it make whether it's the unit's power cable or a piece of cheap contractor grade electrical wire? At least with my method there aren't even any exposed electrical contacts inside the wall like there would be with an outlet.

TH-42PD25U (http://home.comcast.net/~p.iott/plasmaclose.jpg)

I saw a large firey spark from my wife's iron when she was ironing my work shirt. I would trust the romex over the power cord from the manufacturer any day!

As for the exposed electrical contacts, a properly mounted electrical box will take car of that, just like all the other outlets in your home.

Originally posted by mwofsd
I bought the visio plasma and went down to CC to get a monster surge protector (ht700 1850 joules). The sales clerk? advised me that it is not wise to plug any plasma tv into a surge protector unless it is the $300 version specially designed for plasma t.v.'s? He said it had something to do with the plasma needing to be heated and needing a direct power connection.

I bought the plasma to save money and now this is throwing a huge wrench in my plans.

Does ANYONE have any knowledge on this subject?

My house has decent power but is in a rapidly developing area and the good ole power company keeps knocking out the power in the area.

Please HELP!

I good metal boxed surge protector is all you really need for a plasma.

Pleeeeeze do not take the salesmans word for anything. Remember there is a Manager harassing him all the time for the extra sales with unethical lies so he(the manager) can make his bonus.

Why don't you call Monster and ask about which surge protector will be best w/ your Plasma?

I know I have personally removed a hts3500 and a hts2500 from a customer's system due to it causing or allowing extra grain and interference
into the picture.

That salesperson could be full of crap or maybe he's special and was looking out for your best interests.

That's all I have to say.

Great Thread. If you are comfortable w/ the tools and cutting up your wall this is a great way to save some money. Most people will just hire someone.

Can anyone provide a link to one of these 'hospital grade' outlets with surge protection? I've tried finding them via google but have not been able to...

Nevermind, found 'em! http://www.smarthomepro.com/865130.html

:)

So I got my 42inch Panny the other day with a wall mount. Once I started drilling where I found the studs, I ended up hitting metal studs, (I live in a military dormitory). I went to the hardware store and the burliest toggle bolt I could find was only 1/4".

Of course I couldn't resist mounting it asap, so I bought them and mounted it up. My wallplate has room for 4 bolts, and one of the toggle mechanisms actually jammed up some how and is stuck, and I was not able to get it out so that 4th screw which is on the bottom of the mount, is not helping that mouch. Though I do have 3 bolts that firmly anchored.

Do you guys think this will be enough to hold a Panny 42PWD7UY? I beared down on the plate before hanging the plasma and it definetely feels solid. I am just worried about over time.

I am curious if you guys know of a better method for mounting into those awful metal studs. Thanks!

Originally posted by mattsoft
Can anyone provide a link to one of these 'hospital grade' outlets with surge protection? I've tried finding them via google but have not been able to...

Nevermind, found 'em! http://www.smarthomepro.com/865130.html

:)

Can you tell me how much the Levitron surge protector cost? I couldn't get a price on the website.

my apartment is on the 22nd floor of a 39 floor building? is lightning still a concern? am i foolish for thinking that if lightning should strike my building all the excess energy will be dissipated by the time it reaches my plasma?

thanks in advance for taking the time to reply.

CMM.

good info!

Does it matter where the outlet is located behind the plasma?

I'm having some work done on the family room and running all the necessary wires to where I'd like my plasma screen to go. I plan on putting an outlet in the wall behind the screen (having an electrician do it, actually) and I'm concerned that if the outlet is too high it will interfere with the mount or not be accessible to the plug. If it's too low, then of course it won't be covered by the screen and will be visible.

Also, should it be centered or toward one side?

I haven't picked out which model or even size I'll be getting (42" or 50") but I need to have the work done before I get the new plasma.

Any and all advice appreciated.

Because I did it all by myself and had the plasma in hand, it was easier for me to choose the location. I have a horizontal beam just about where my plasma is mounted. I relocated an existing outlet right up to this beam so I would not have to penetrate it. Worked out perfect!

http://sisterhood.shacknet.nu/ppsite/cache/1.jpg
http://sisterhood.shacknet.nu/ppsite/cache/2.jpg
http://sisterhood.shacknet.nu/ppsite/cache/3.jpg

I'm planning on mounting the TV on a brick wall and I haven't seen any posts regarding this type of a mount .
There is a fireplace but I haven't used it and not planning on in the future . Any pointers on doing this kind of a wall mount ?

Was thinking of the Sanus VMPL but haven't yet decided .

Thanks.

Originally posted by JonBH
I haven't picked out which model or even size I'll be getting (42" or 50") but I need to have the work done before I get the new plasma.

Any and all advice appreciated.

As many wall mounts that fit a 42" also fit a 50" use the dimensions for the 42" plasma for the cardboard template. Then you can put the outlet somewhere within that area. Be advised that the wall plate shown below is just one flavor. Mine happens to cover a much larger area so I needed to know where the outlet holes in the wall mount were located.

For brick walls I would think that you could use the lead anchor/lag screws and a hammer drill with bit to make the holes.

Remember guys most of the force from the weight of the plasma is going to be vertical, down the wall, as opposed to horizontal away from the wall. Unless you get an articulating wall mount, in which case ignore what I just said. :)

There are many posters on here who have thier plasma mounted over the fireplace (seems to be a sort of theme). Kweezer is one that I know of who pops in here every now and then.

Originally posted by foghorn2
Because I did it all by myself and had the plasma in hand, it was easier for me to choose the location. I have a horizontal beam just about where my plasma is mounted. I relocated an existing outlet right up to this beam so I would not have to penetrate it. Worked out perfect!


Where did you get those grommets you have in the holes for the cables?

Let me ask this another way: How far from where the bottom of my screen will be should I place the outlet? Does it need to be just above the bottom of the plasma, or can it be anywhere behind the plasma. In the screens I've seen displayed at store, the outlet is always just a few inches above the bottom of the screen. If it's placed higher, will the screen block access to the outlet? (And obviously I don't want the outlet to block where the mount will go.)

My issue is that I'm not exactly sure how high I will mount the screen. If I knew that I'd be able to get the plug into outlet even if it's high behind the screen, then I'd install the outlet higher so I'd have some flexibility when it comes time to mount the screen. If, however, the outlet needs to be toward the bottom of the screen in order to be accessible, then I'll need to decide now exactly how high to place the screen.

Make sense?

Actually, I understood everything you said. ;)

I think the stores put them there for ease of use. If I had mounted an outlet under our wall mount it would have been visible...and that just will not do. :)

The plug will be an issue unless you swap it out for a flat laying type.

Typically there is only ~ 2 - 3 inches between the wall and the back of the plasma. Which is why *most* use a recessed clock outlet (pic attached). That would allow the plug from the end of the cord to be used.

Either way I would look at which mount you want to use. My wall mount is a big flat piece of sheet metal that's almost as big as the plasma with knock outs in the two top corners. The one pictured above is a lot svelter.

If you're going to get the one with the knock outs then you need to take that into consideration.

Originally posted by foghorn2
...good metal boxed surge protector is all you really need for a plasma.
I only have basic electrical knowledge, so excuse the ignorance. I'm still not quite sure about the type of outlet to install near the wall mounted plasma. I'm mainly concerned about surge protection. My questions:

1) What do you mean by "good metal boxed surge protector"? Romex to electrical box w/ surge outlet (e.g. like the Leviton shown previously)? Is the Leviton one good enough?

2) Is a "hospital-grade" outlet (whatever that means) necessary? Is it good enough or too much (if there is such a thing as too much surge protection)?

3) Could a notebook surge protector work for a plasma? Some are about palm-sized & about 1" thick?

Thanks for the explanation.

While the work for the area where the plasma will go is being done now, the entire room (new doors, painting, flooring) won't be ready for many months. I can't select a mount till I decide on the plasma, and I don't want to decide on the plasma now if I don't have to buy it till later in the year. (I'll have no place to put it before then anyway.)

So assuming I get a clock receptacle, I need to make sure that the outlet is placed somewhere behind where the screen will go, but not behind the part of the mount that attaches to the wall. Is this correct?

My quandary stems from the fact that I don't know how high I will be placing the screen. It will be going over an abandoned brick fireplace that we are drywalling over. We are finishing out the firebox opening to accommodate the AV receiver, DVD player, etc., so I can't get the screen all the way down to eye-level. On the one hand I want the screen to be as close to eye level as possible for comfortable viewing. On the other hand I'm not sure how low I can go without looking cramped by being right on top of the opening where the AV components will be. I was hoping to work this out by eye once I got the screen, but since I need to get the electrical done now, I suppose I'll need to take a best guess as to where to put the outlet.

Perhaps I'll ask the contractor if there's a way he can design the wall so that it will be relatively easy to add electrical and conduits for cables after the wall is finished.

Originally posted by JonBH
So assuming I get a clock receptacle, I need to make sure that the outlet is placed somewhere behind where the screen will go, but not behind the part of the mount that attaches to the wall. Is this correct?

Yes, unless you're handy with a rotozip or can manipulate sheet metal. ;)

My quandary stems from the fact that I don't know how high I will be placing the screen. It will be going over an abandoned brick fireplace that we are drywalling over. We are finishing out the firebox opening to accommodate the AV receiver, DVD player, etc., so I can't get the screen all the way down to eye-level. On the one hand I want the screen to be as close to eye level as possible for comfortable viewing. On the other hand I'm not sure how low I can go without looking cramped by being right on top of the opening where the AV components will be. I was hoping to work this out by eye once I got the screen, but since I need to get the electrical done now, I suppose I'll need to take a best guess as to where to put the outlet.

Depends on your definition of "eye level" as you don't want to make the A/V stuff looked crammed. FWIW, the bottom of our 42" is ~40" from the finished floor....which puts the middle of the screen right at eye level.

Perhaps I'll ask the contractor is there's a way he can design the wall so that it will be relatively easy to add electrical and conduits for cables after the wall is finished.

An excellent idea is to install a conduit before drywalling as it will make running the interconnects that much easier...just make sure that the conduit will be able to pass the widest plug (probably 2" - 2 1/2" would do it for DVI et al). Also have him leave a piece of string/ wire running from one end to the other of the conduit to further simplify your life.

RE: Surge protector

I know that panamax makes a very good product that includes recessed power surge protected outlet and hookups for interconnects.

http://www.panamax.com/products.cfm

http://www.panamax.com/products.cfm?group=22&sec=group

Good luck guys and let us know if you need any further help.

BTW, once setup you do realize that you have to come back here and post a thread with pics...right? :)

Originally posted by JonBH
My quandary stems from the fact that I don't know how high I will be placing the screen.


Heh, the wife is still mad at me because I ignored here and mounted the plasma low. I understand that in your situation you have to go high, but when given the option I prefer the 5 degree down rule (its an ergonomics rule, but fits here). Anyway, my plasma is mounted about a foot off the floor. This gives me about 2 -4 degree downward look when sitting in a chair and gives my son's neck a break (he likes watching from the floor).

My exterior-wall install location is a 6ft x 5ft area above gas fireplace and between built-in bookcases. Adding a false sheetrock wall in this small space makes wiring pretty easy. Use 2x2 studs and a shallow switchbox for the outlet.

Originally posted by rmcgirr83
Actually, I understood everything you said. ;)

I think the stores put them there for ease of use. If I had mounted an outlet under our wall mount it would have been visible...and that just will not do. :)

The plug will be an issue unless you swap it out for a flat laying type.

Typically there is only ~ 2 - 3 inches between the wall and the back of the plasma. Which is why *most* use a recessed clock outlet (pic attached). That would allow the plug from the end of the cord to be used.

Either way I would look at which mount you want to use. My wall mount is a big flat piece of sheet metal that's almost as big as the plasma with knock outs in the two top corners. The one pictured above is a lot svelter.

If you're going to get the one with the knock outs then you need to take that into consideration.

Is the outlet shown in your message a surge protector? I'm looking for exactly something like that. If it is, can you post more information about it?

Thanks... (I'm planning to use a surge protector at the outlet site as well as a whole house surge protector.)

msboc,

Nope but, IIRC, the panamax ones are and they have one that is a recessed outlet only.

Originally posted by halo0
Where did you get those grommets you have in te holes for the cables?

Get em @ Home Repo

The ones at Lowes suck, terrible that is.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by rmcgirr83
[B]Thanks guys. :D
Where did you get the furniture from?

Originally posted by rmcgirr83
msboc,

Nope but, IIRC, the panamax ones are and they have one that is a recessed outlet only.

Oh? I looked at the Panamax stuff briefly and did not see a recessed outlet only. I went with the Leviton 5280 surge protector (in wall), but with the Sanus slim mount there is no room for play. In fact, if you get up next to the wall and look you can see that the DPD is not hanging perfectly parallel to the wall. Luckily, you have to get your face right next to the wall to notice this, but the problem is that the wire to the DPD plug is turned 90 degrees as it comes off the plug. In my mind this is not exactly a healthy setup.

I am off to research the Panamax options...

Originally posted by plamabug
Where did you get the furniture from?

It's a Salamander Twin Thirty.

www dot salamanderdesigns dot com

Originally posted by jspirate
Oh? I looked at the Panamax stuff briefly and did not see a recessed outlet only.

http://www.panamax.com/products.cfm?group=1&sec=detail&id=219&ly=h

But it needs a double gang box.

:)

Originally posted by jspirate
Oh? I looked at the Panamax stuff briefly and did not see a recessed outlet only. I went with the Leviton 5280 surge protector (in wall), but with the Sanus slim mount there is no room for play. In fact, if you get up next to the wall and look you can see that the DPD is not hanging perfectly parallel to the wall. Luckily, you have to get your face right next to the wall to notice this, but the problem is that the wire to the DPD plug is turned 90 degrees as it comes off the plug. In my mind this is not exactly a healthy setup.

I am off to research the Panamax options...

Remember, the Panamax MAX-In-Wall units have the additional modules as options; you don't have to add them. The basic unit comes with blocking plates for the unused parts. However, that leave lots of recessed space.....

Kal (happy with his MIWs)

JohnBH,

Your thinking on this is right on the money. You need to get things figured out now, to save you headache down the road.

1. Mount the plasma as low as possible over the fireplace opening.

2. Put in the biggest conduit you can fit into the wall (3-4 inch is not too big unless you are using 2x4 framing.

3. consider framing out away from the brick 8 or more inches and then insetting the plasma into a premade framed space. This will hide the wires, mount and back of the plasma from view from the side.

4. MAKE SURE YOU PUT FRAMING studs behind the area you intend to mount the plasma!!!!!!!!!!!!

5. Put a door over the equipment below the plasma and use an IR or RF remote emitter system to control it. No one needs to see the equipment and it detracts from the plasma image.

6. Put a standard outlet in the space behind the plasma and mount it near any side of the 42-50 inch space behind the unit just inside the outer dimension of a 42 or 50 incher and the plasma will cover it. particularly if you decide to inset the plasma in the wall. The mount will give you plenty of room to plug in even with a standard outlet.

7. I f you go with an inset install. get an extendable mount like a Sanus VMPS or VMSA to help with wire hookup and initial mounting.

8. Srongly consider installing inwall speakers in your set up around the plasma.

FWIW, I would be leary of putting a plasma in a framed space due to heat issues.

Mounting the plasma or LCD into an inset, framed, drywalled space within a wall is the ideal method of install, if done properly and with significant forethought.


1. The inset should be a minimum of 7 and preferably 8-9 inches to allow space for the depth of the plasma plus the depth of the mount. The deeper you go the better off you are from a reflection standpoint, but see number 2.

2. The inset space should be 3-5 inches larger than the expected outer dimensions of the plasma/lcd on all sides, to specifically allow for ventilation of said flat screen unit. This gap shall be left to open air and not covered with any "decorative hardware." The deeper the inset, the wider thy gap shall be.

3. The mount should be extendable to allow acces to wire/cable hookup and ease of mounting.

4. This method shall give, by far, the cleanest look to your flat panel device.

I agree it would look sweet. Even have a nice framed picture with the ability to slide up to unveil the unit and down to hide when not in use.

But all manufacturers state specifically what the space requirements are for proper ventilation. Not sure, if you develop problems from lack of heat dissipation, if it would be covered under warranty if the space requirements weren't met from the get go.

Just putting a little more significant forethought into the discussion. :)

Point made and the speed limit used to be 55 mph.:)

Thank God they changed that!! :)

Thanks for the good advice everyone.

I don't plan on insetting the plasma. It will just hang on the wall. The receiver and other devices will be in the old fireplace, which I'm having finished with a cabinet-type insert. The cabinet will have a top held on by latches that will let me drop down the top for easy access for snaking wires.

The contractor is putting studs behind the drywall spaced at about 36". This is the width of the fireplace opening so this way he can run the studs right down to the floor to give it horizontal support. He's then going to screw some 3/4" plywood into the studs and that's what will ultimately support the mount and screen. The plywood is mounted in such a way that there's about 2" clearance behind it for running wires. The sheet rock will go over the plywood. There some addition bracing as well across the top of the fireplace opening that also leaves a 2" gap for running wires.

I've been assured that the heavy plywood attached to studs, which are "shot" into the bricks, supported directly by the floor and cross-braced, should easily hold the weight of the plasma, mount and center speaker.

Sounds like a very good plan. ;)

Anticipate total weight to be roughly 100 lbs tops if a 42". So with a 3/4 or even 1/2" (?) piece of plywood should be very sturdy. I would suggest if at all possible to split the 36" span in two (stud at 18") for further antitwist support. Just a thought. :)

When all is said and done, don't forget the pics to put in this (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=489915) thread. :D

Make sure you remember to run two lines of Quad sheild RG6 for cable and OTA antenna to the area. You also need a phone line if you are using a Satellite dish.

You should probably get approval of this from your building inspector before they start nailing the 2x4's to the fireplace. This is against code if it were to be used as a fireplace. I know you plan not to use it, but there may be specific things he wants you to do to decommision it from use then you can frame it in a standard fashion. This will be picked up at the framing inspection. Also, there is a code regarding the max height of an electric outlet you should check out.

The 3/4 inch ply over 2 by will be plenty strong for the plasma. Use multiple big lags on the mount or large toggle bolts. The 3/4 ply backer is nice as it allows great flexibility in placing the mount.

One other thing everyone forgets is that the components need good ventilation as well, particularly a DVR, satellite receiver, media box, or HT receiver.

Where did you get those grommets you have in te holes for the cables?
Get em @ Home Repo

Was at Home Dep tonight looking for the "gromments" no one had a clue! what are these things really called? anyone have a part number?

thanks
T

How many studs do you need to catch with the mount? Is 1 enough or do you have to span 2? Studs in my house are 24" o/c and I want to mount a 50" plasma centered on 1 stud. Is that a mistake? I have a Sanus mount on order.

Originally posted by ICU


Was at Home Dep tonight looking for the "gromments" no one had a clue! what are these things really called? anyone have a part number?

thanks
T [/QUOTE]

I found two different types:
1. Lowes - IIRC these were in the area where all the knobs are for kitchen/bathroom cabinets. Lowes keeps this stuff in little drawers, so you have to look at all the drawers because they don't exactly jump out at you.

2. Home Depot - the grommets are with all the other telephone/coax cable/component wires that they carry.

Originally posted by JKent
How many studs do you need to catch with the mount? Is 1 enough or do you have to span 2? Studs in my house are 24" o/c and I want to mount a 50" plasma centered on 1 stud. Is that a mistake? I have a Sanus mount on order.

I don't think I could get comfortable mounting my plasma on one stud unless the mount was designed to be used on one stud.

Great thread, thanks Rich and all.

Am going to wall mount my Panny 50px50u and have a couple of really stupid questions:

Are there certain wall mount models that allow easier/better access to the rear cable input sockets (once mounted)?

How difficult is it to remove the PDP once hung onto a mount?

what are the preferred min/max distances (between PDP and wall.

Anyone experiment with ambient lighting (with wall mounted PDP

Thanks!

Gman

GmanAVS,

1st you're welcome.

2nd it isn't difficult at all the unit sits down a tad in the mounting holes on the bracket, just have a friend help you lift it up.

3rd preferred min/max distances is in the eye of the beholder...or owner. Some like it flush to the wall others like it to be able to swing out from the wall.

4th funny you should mention bias lighting (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=451527&highlight=bias)

Good luck.

Well I be ..... !!! (hadn't done a search yet)

I picked up Sat. a cheapo rope light at Home Depot!

:D

nice thread rich! couple of q's for you (or anyone else). i'm going to be helping my buddy mount his plasma, so i'm just trying to do some preliminary research.

----

outlet. if it's not a clock style (where it's recessed), but a regular wall plug --- is there still enough room for the plug to stick into the socket, but not interfere with the mounting? i suppose that may depend on the particular mounting kit, but it seems like the plug *will* interfere.

routing the wire. he will be mouting it above a fireplace. his gear will be on a shelf to the right of the fireplace. i'm concerned about running the wiring inside the wall, to his shelf ... and the effect the fireplace may have on the wire. from what i'm told, he did put a cross-stud up kinda high - the plan is to have the wiring lay "on top" of the stud, so that it's not "hanging" near the heat source. any thoughts on that?

I'm interested in the same question just asked... I will be mounting my LCD flat panel above the fireplace, but I'm not sure about running the wires through the wall... I would really appreciate some feedback before I start making holes in my wall :eek:

Goo thread, hopefully we can have some more questions answered. I'd like to mount my 32" LCD myself, but not sure how to run the wires. The LCD will be about a foot above our dresser and the STB and DVD player will be underneath the set on top of the dresser. I was thinking of running the wires thru the wall, exiting behind the dresser and then up a foot to the STB/DVD. How do you run the wires thru the wall as far as a wall plate goes? I'll have a HDMI, think rigid DVI, stereo, coax, RF, and power. Do I just leave a big hole in the wall behind the LCD and the dresser? I can't imagine the wall plate that allows those cables to come thru. Any suggestions? Power will possibly be from an extension cord to the power outlet a few feet over. Or would using an extension cord be bad?

Do all wall mounts have cutouts for wire to run thru? I don't see them on the single stud mounts. Do you just run the wires tight to the set then into the wall somewhere around the mount? I want a tilt mount, so it will be 2"-3" off the wall, I want it clean because it's eye level next to the door, so you'd see it's profile and I don't want to see dangling wires, etc.

The only wall that I can mount my 50" PDP on is an existing load bearing one with blocking and insulation. Anyone have experience with one of these installations?

Goo thread, hopefully we can have some more questions answered. I'd like to mount my 32" LCD myself, but not sure how to run the wires. The LCD will be about a foot above our dresser and the STB and DVD player will be underneath the set on top of the dresser. I was thinking of running the wires thru the wall, exiting behind the dresser and then up a foot to the STB/DVD. How do you run the wires thru the wall as far as a wall plate goes?

I'll have a HDMI, think rigid DVI, stereo, coax, RF, and power. Do I just leave a big hole in the wall behind the LCD and the dresser?

I can't imagine the wall plate that allows those cables to come thru. Any suggestions? Power will possibly be from an extension cord to the power outlet a few feet over. Or would using an extension cord be bad?

Do all wall mounts have cutouts for wire to run thru? I don't see them on the single stud mounts. Do you just run the wires tight to the set then into the wall somewhere around the mount? I want a tilt mount, so it will be 2"-3" off the wall, I want it clean because it's eye level next to the door, so you'd see it's profile and I don't want to see dangling wires, etc.

If your cables are long enough, I would run the wires in the wall and exit near the bottom (line up the exit hole to the existing electrical outlets in the room).

Two options for wall plates:
You can go the pro route, run everything in conduit, intall a box, install proper "jack-type" AV plates.

The DIY way, what I did. Buy one of those wall plates with one circle in the middle. It is basically a light switch cover plate, with a circle cut out. Not sure what these are really used for... Drill a hole, run the wires, put the plate over the hole you made for a semi-pro look and to keep drywall crumblings from falling onto the ground. If you need a bigger hole, use one of those light switch plates with a large rectangle cutout.

Don't make a big hole, make it large enough for the power plug head to fit through. That will be your biggest piece. Feed each wire through one by one. Its a pain but well worth it for a clean look. Than cover with the plate I mentioned above.

Using an extension cord and running the power cable through the wall is not code where I live. Probably not code anywhere. I ran the power wire though the wall.

About seeing wires behind the TV, put the hole close to the mounting point on the oppoisite side of the door.

The only wall that I can mount my 50" PDP on is an existing load bearing one with blocking and insulation. Anyone have experience with one of these installations?


An existing load bearing wall? If so, why does that matter? What is blocking?

You can run wires through the insulation, it is a pain, but possible.

If your cables are long enough, I would run the wires in the wall and exit near the bottom (line up the exit hole to the existing electrical outlets in the room).

Two options for wall plates:
You can go the pro route, run everything in conduit, intall a box, install proper "jack-type" AV plates.

The DIY way, what I did. Buy one of those wall plates with one circle in the middle. It is basically a light switch cover plate, with a circle cut out. Not sure what these are really used for... Drill a hole, run the wires, put the plate over the hole you made for a semi-pro look and to keep drywall crumblings from falling onto the ground. If you need a bigger hole, use one of those light switch plates with a large rectangle cutout.

Don't make a big hole, make it large enough for the power plug head to fit through. That will be your biggest piece. Feed each wire through one by one. Its a pain but well worth it for a clean look. Than cover with the plate I mentioned above.

Using an extension cord and running the power cable through the wall is not code where I live. Probably not code anywhere. I ran the power wire though the wall.

About seeing wires behind the TV, put the hole close to the mounting point on the oppoisite side of the door.

Awesome stuff, thanks!
So you are saying to get a wall plate with the circle cutout and run all the wires thru that in both locations? As for the extension cord, you misunderstand. I will run the TV's power lug down and inside the wall and exit that bottom wall plate. However, it will not reach to outlet. So, I was going to have an extension cord running the 3 feet needed. I was asking if it was a sin to use an extension cord (ie- offend the AV gods by introducing possible noise in the line, etc) The alternative is a longer power cord I suppose, just not sure if that's an option really.

There's an installer that I have yet to talk to, recommended to me by my ISF guy. He charges around $150 or so to install the LCD and run cables. I'm trying to determine if I want a pro to do it or not. I don't want to spent the cash on the wall outlets, AV connections, plugs, etc and I want to see how he would do the cables compared to how rudimentary I would.

Most wall mounts will have space to plug in the power receptacle into the outlet. In fact, most wall mounts have a little guide for cutting/placing an outlet.

In addition to being a possible source of line noise (which is a debatable subject), running an extension cord inside your wall is unwise. You will be introducing another fire hazard into the situation. The best solution is to place an electrical outlet directly behind the display.

Using an electrical box is going to be your best and safest bet for wiring. It not only provides a clean hole with options for any type of cover, but keeps the wires from falling into the wall or being pulled and causing a larger, unsightly hole in the wall. If you keep the drywall, you can always replace it if necessary.

You can always use round plastic grommets w/ caps for wire management too (like the ones you see on desks to organize computer wiring). Just use the smallest one possible, since you don't want a huge visible gap for critters to crawl through.

Unless your city's code allows power cords in-wall (which I doubt), I agree it'd be best to place an outlet near the TV.

The only wall that I can mount my 50" PDP on is an existing load bearing one with blocking and insulation. Anyone have experience with one of these installations?
Fire blocks and insulation are a wall-fishing nightmare. I'm not sure if it's code, but you'd have to be creative in drilling the holes through a fire block. The DirecTV installer I spoke with said, in his own house, from the attic, he drilled down through the header first then used an extra long drill bit (we're talking several feet!) down through the blocking. Even with his experience, he said it was a difficult job (he was wiring his house for speaker cable). If you didn't have attic or crawlspace to work with, you'd probably have to drill through the wall and up through the blocking, but you'd still have a difficult time fishing the wire. If it were me, I'd probably pay someone to do it, unless you had the patience, tools and skill to do it clean.

Ok, so no power cord in the wall. So, I'll have to make a new outlet there for power, I should use the clock outlet one right-it's recessed-?

Thanks for the tips guys. I started a thread and posted in two other threads about wall mounting and never received a single reply. I've gotten most the answers I've needed from you guys today :)

The only wall that I can mount my 50" PDP on is an existing load bearing one with blocking and insulation. Anyone have experience with one of these installations?

You really aren't specific enough to have us help you.
First off mounting a PDP on a load bearing wall is probably the most secure installations you can have. As for feeding the panel power and signals you will have some difficulty. As 3Series points out insulation is do-able and here is a reference (http://www.lsdinc.com/cgi-local/search.cgi?user_id=id&1_option=2&1=IW&database=data/Dbase3.txt&template=templateapp.html&output_number=10) that might help you.
Blocking however is called different things in different parts of the country:
Some places refer to blocking as sound absorption (i.e. sound blocking) material a PVC with a sand mixture - which causes no problem for running power and signal cables.

Sound absorption designs can also call for two sets of studs, offset from the base. So that each side of the wall is attached to a different set of studs - this also makes for nice load bearing application. It is important to find the studs to which your side of the wall is attached to or you may crack the drywall when attaching the mount. Again this still allows for enough space to run power and signal feeds. It's just half the normal space about 8" instead of 16".

Blocking could also be known as material placed at the base of the floor to prevent the migration of fire (i.e fire blocking) between floors. Again this shouldn't provide much difficulty to running the cables.

I've also seen the term used for the placement of 2x4 remnants offset to each other as if assembling a staircase out of blocks up each side of a small space in a load bearing wall. Couple this with insulation and it will be close to impossible to feed cables through the wall. In one case after playing with this for several hours I got so dumbfounded that I ended up opening up the wall to route the cables and even then decided to pick another section of wall, because if I ever had to replace or add future cables I determined that it would have still been too problematic (too many turns and too many places to catch cable and not enough room for conduit.)

Then there is blocking associated with installing and attaching a wall between two joists as you can see here http://images.lowes.com/general/d/dividing_wall2.gif if you're cables are dropping from the ceiling this does not create severe problems unless the blocking material is exactly where you want to run the cables, but this should be easily determined with a pilot hole from above.

And I imagine blocking could be describing something else all together.

I didn't use a recessed outlet. You can certainly go both ways without much difficulty.

A lot of discussion here on running power cords in the wall. That is a NO NO per NEC code and all municipal codes that I know.

Installing a power receptacle behind the unit near the mount creates a problem with surge protection. Most surge protection units are too big and bulky to plug in this receptacle behing the Plasma. I solved this problem by running romex in the wall and installing a box and receptacle on both ends, one near the mount and the other end behind my equipt cabinet..

I have the surge protector attached to the wall, powered from a hot outlet, from which I have all units pl;ugged in. To power the outlet for the TV, near the mount, I have a short heavy extension cord, with plugs on both ends, one end plugged into the surge protector and the other into the lower outlet. This powers the upper outlet for the TV, with surge protection.

I had to be sure that the polorized pins, one large and one small, going into the surge protector outlet, matched the connections of the plug on the other of the extension cord going into the lower outlet. This is no problem if you use a few feet of heavy cord and two grounded plugs, making it yourself.

I bought a surge protector made for placing behind wall mounted displays. I think the panamax recessed outlet comes with built in surge protection.

agogley- Yea, someone just mentioned that panamax recessed protected outlet in another related thread. I think that's what I'm going to go with.

Installing a power receptacle behind the unit near the mount creates a problem with surge protection. Most surge protection units are too big and bulky to plug in this receptacle behing the Plasma. I solved this problem by running romex in the wall and installing a box and receptacle on both ends, one near the mount and the other end behind my equipt cabinet.

Panamax offers a ready-to-install version of this which can also accomodate signal cables.

Kal

A lot of discussion here on running power cords in the wall. That is a NO NO per NEC code and all municipal codes that I know.

Installing a power receptacle behind the unit near the mount creates a problem with surge protection. Most surge protection units are too big and bulky to plug in this receptacle behing the Plasma. I solved this problem by running romex in the wall and installing a box and receptacle on both ends, one near the mount and the other end behind my equipt cabinet..

I have the surge protector attached to the wall, powered from a hot outlet, from which I have all units pl;ugged in. To power the outlet for the TV, near the mount, I have a short heavy extension cord, with plugs on both ends, one end plugged into the surge protector and the other into the lower outlet. This powers the upper outlet for the TV, with surge protection.

I had to be sure that the polorized pins, one large and one small, going into the surge protector outlet, matched the connections of the plug on the other of the extension cord going into the lower outlet. This is no problem if you use a few feet of heavy cord and two grounded plugs, making it yourself.
It took me a while to picture what you did, but sounds like an interesting solution. Have you checked to see if it's up to code to run that cable from the surge protector to the 'dummy' outlet? The surge protection thing has held up my plans to wall-mount my plasma, so am looking for any creative ideas.

It took me a while to picture what you did, but sounds like an interesting solution. Have you checked to see if it's up to code to run that cable from the surge protector to the 'dummy' outlet? The surge protection thing has held up my plans to wall-mount my plasma, so am looking for any creative ideas.

I don't know about his home-made solution but it sounds to be similar to the Panamax system that I installed. I've posted pix of my install but you can get more info from Panamax.
http://www.panamax.com/products.cfm?group=1&sec=detail&id=221&ly=h
http://www.panamax.com/products.cfm?group=1&sec=detail&id=261&ly=h
http://www.panamax.com/products.cfm?group=1&sec=detail&id=231&ly=h

Kal

gohd...

The cable is simply a piece of extension cord, similar to the power cord for your computer.. It is all exposed, like any other power cord, no code issues. I elected to use male plugs on both sides, so that I could be sure that, lets say the big pug pin on both plugs was connected by the same wire. If I used a power cord like the computer and simply cut off the computer end, and tried to attached another plug, I would have no idea as to which wire was attached to the large pin. Hope it makes sense. Of course, the ground wire goes to the receptacle ground.

I did not know about the units designed for the back of the mount. I used a Belkin unit found in the office supplies surge protector section of CC, for $34.54, a lot cheaper than the ones in the video section.

questions for the experts how exactly do you mount to something like this

http://www.roomstogo.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=showItem&ipac_id=8380

any and all help is appreciated!

manufanatic,

I responded to your other post.

questions for the experts how exactly do you mount to something like this

http://www.roomstogo.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=showItem&ipac_id=8380

any and all help is appreciated!
You should be able to install a wall mount directly into the backing if it's decently thick solid wood or plywood. Drill a hole hidden behind the plasma, where you can run all the wires to the back area down to the lower credenza area where your equipment will be. Nice simple setup, without having to worry about fishing wire, drilling holes in your walls and pricey in-wall surge protectors. Plus, if you move, there's less holes to have to patch.

Okay, read all the posts - still have questions on wire management.

For some reason, I never thought about installing an outlet behind the plasma when bulding my addition - probably thought I could run the power cord down the inside of the wall but I found out now that I'm wrong about that.

Anyway, I want the plasma to be flush mounted to the wall as close as possible.

I would imagine the mount has cutout holes for the power cord and all a/v cables. I imagine there would be two cutouts - one for power cord b/c the wall directly behind the cutout would have an electrical outlet and block other a/v cables from going down that hole. One problem I have is that I already ran speaker wire down that stud bay (for center channel) - so I will have to keep the electrical away from that wire as best as I can.

How does an electrical outlet get installed when drywall is already up? I noticed in new construction that the outlet box needs to be nailed into the side of the stud and the drywall goes over the box but it covers where the location where the nail needs to be placed. Do you cut a hole larger than the outlet box and then patch the gap in the drywall?

What I can't visualize is how the power cord would go in (isn't it about two-three inches in total with cord being bent 90 degrees to side? unless its one of those flat plugs) without forcing the tv to stick out from the wall (unless using one of those recessed outlets). I'm talking about flush mount - not swivel mount.

I know I can always run the power cord on the outside of the wall and cover it up somehow - but the goal is that nice clean look. Can you run the a/c cables and power cord down the same raceway, without it causing interference? Thanks.

-I don't think you get interference from power-a/v cables but I could be totally wrong.
-You can get a post construction single gang box if I recall my electrician dad correctly.
-There are recessed Panamax outlets to deal with power plugs.
-Some wall mounts provide NO cut out for wires so be sure to check the photos.

Okay, read all the posts - still have questions on wire management.

For some reason, I never thought about installing an outlet behind the plasma when bulding my addition - probably thought I could run the power cord down the inside of the wall but I found out now that I'm wrong about that.

Anyway, I want the plasma to be flush mounted to the wall as close as possible.

I would imagine the mount has cutout holes for the power cord and all a/v cables. I imagine there would be two cutouts - one for power cord b/c the wall directly behind the cutout would have an electrical outlet and block other a/v cables from going down that hole. One problem I have is that I already ran speaker wire down that stud bay (for center channel) - so I will have to keep the electrical away from that wire as best as I can.

How does an electrical outlet get installed when drywall is already up? I noticed in new construction that the outlet box needs to be nailed into the side of the stud and the drywall goes over the box but it covers where the location where the nail needs to be placed. Do you cut a hole larger than the outlet box and then patch the gap in the drywall?

What I can't visualize is how the power cord would go in (isn't it about two-three inches in total with cord being bent 90 degrees to side? unless its one of those flat plugs) without forcing the tv to stick out from the wall (unless using one of those recessed outlets). I'm talking about flush mount - not swivel mount.

I know I can always run the power cord on the outside of the wall and cover it up somehow - but the goal is that nice clean look. Can you run the a/c cables and power cord down the same raceway, without it causing interference? Thanks.

what you need is a "remodeler" outlet box, basically you cut out the sheetrock the same size of the box, slide it in and turn some screws that snugs it up to the back of the rock.

Use a recessed or "clock" outlet or try to find a pigtail with a 90 degree/flat plug.

If I ran the power cord and a/v cables down the exterior of the drywall, can they go in the same raceway or would that cause interference?

what you need is a "remodeler" outlet box, basically you cut out the sheetrock the same size of the box, slide it in and turn some screws that snugs it up to the back of the rock.

Use a recessed or "clock" outlet or try to find a pigtail with a 90 degree/flat plug.

We used a clock outlet in the bedroom and it works with the power cord snugly fitting between my plasma and the wall. The mount is a F-PAN so the TV is pretty close to the wall. More of a hassle was bundling up the 3' or so of power cord and getting that stuffed between the TV and the wall... You definitely want to go to code and the clock outlet should give you clearance to get the plug into the wall and have room to run the power cord to the TV.

For best results, you should keep signal and power cables in separate raceways, and if possible have then cross at right angles. I noticed our electricians doing this when wiring our house, and that agrees with conventional wisdom.

On the other hand, if doing a retrofit, it is probably not practical to do two raceways. Running for short distances you will probably not notice much of a problem if you use decent shielding on your audio and video cables. Otherwise you might get a hum from the 60Hz power line induced in your analog signals, similar to ground loop noise. Or not. Digital should do a btter job rejecting this noise.

Your milegage may vary. :-)

If I ran the power cord and a/v cables down the exterior of the drywall, can they go in the same raceway or would that cause interference?

Are you talking raceway or the space between studs? In my bedroom I have a/c power between studs running parallel to speaker wire (opposite sides of course) for my left speaker; probably for about 2-3' with separation distance of around 8". And because it is an in-wall speaker of 6.5" diameter, the a/c is probably 3-5" from the speaker itself. It was non-ideal but I'm not getting any detectable noise on the speaker.

So having the a/c with your center channel may be non-ideal but still very workable if you bring the speaker wires down on one side until you go to the speaker. And then have the a/c on the other side. Everyone recommends that the best plan is no parallel a/c and A/V and if they meet then cross at right angles to each other. Since the wife wanted lights, I had to roll the dice and luckily everything worked out.

My layout from left to right was:
studs 1-2: a/c power for lights in bathroom behind the bedroom, L speaker wire
studs 2-3: a/c power for plasma to recessed clock outlet.
studs 3-4: a/v cables and center speaker cables
studs 5-6: speaker wire for R speaker (some minor stud issues here as you match the addition onto the existing house and have load bearing a 4x4)

Are you talking raceway or the space between studs?

Sorry, I may be using the wrong term - when I said raceway, I meant the exterior cover the goes over the wires on the outside of the wall. To restate the question, if I decide to put the cords/wires outside on the exterior of the drywall, can the power cord and the a/v cords run in the same "channel"?

You seem to have a mix match of questions here. No matter how close to the wall your mount is, you will have enough room if you use a recessed outlet.

You will not use any conduit or raceway that is currently being used by your stereo wires. You need to run romex 14 gauge or 12 gauge depending on where you will tap into power. The easiest thing to do is to tap into power at a nearby power outlet (perhaps one on the wall directly below) and then fish the romex up to a hole that you will cut into the drywall. Install an "old work" electrical box and run the romex into the box. Most home circuits run 15 amps using the smaller wiring (14 gauge). Then you may install a recessed outlet. (Note: some recessed outlets may come with an old work electrical box. I think Panamax is one.) Keep in mind that 14 gauge is more flexible and will probably work better with a recessed outlet. If you use the insulated romex you will not have problems with stereo interference...well at least not that most of us humans can hear (or unless you believe in power conditioners).

If you run an exterior conduit raceway solution you can run both wiring in the same conduit. (see statement above regarding humans and power conditioners again).

BTW...if you want a "clean" look, why on earth would you run conduit?

BTW...if you want a "clean" look, why on earth would you run conduit?
Some times in-wall isn't a viable or necessary option.

Sharp LCD 37 and a Sanus tilt wall mount

I've got a few questions:

- Got drywall with I believe metal studs. Any advice on what I need to pick up tp mount the mount to the wall, meaning bolts. The ones that came with the mount are for wood beams.

- I want to run ALL the wires in the wall, but I'm reading here that the electrical cord from the TV is a no-no?

- I'm not quite understanding this wire stuff you guys are talking about with one crossing over another, etc.

Thanks!

Sharp LCD 37 and a Sanus tilt wall mount

I've got a few questions:

- Got drywall with I believe metal studs. Any advice on what I need to pick up tp mount the mount to the wall, meaning bolts. The ones that came with the mount are for wood beams.


Thanks!
If I had metal studs I would use a ceiling mount and brace it from above. Also you could fiqure the wiring stuff from above also. Just a thought.

Can I first install wall mount and run cables on the outside and then at a later time run it inside the wall, or should I do both at the same time...

I just wanna mount and use it right away and dont have time to do the whole insdie wall thing right now.

Can I first install wall mount and run cables on the outside and then at a later time run it inside the wall, or should I do both at the same time...

I just wanna mount and use it right away and dont have time to do the whole insdie wall thing right now.
Sure. That's how mine is setup right now.

I've got a Panamax In-Wall protector on the way...so I'll get to work on running the A/V cables through the wall and adding the new outlet when it gets here. In the mean time the cables are on the outside.

Hi I was wondering what makes it so difficult to mount a plasma above a fireplace. Is it due to its height? Also what if the wall is not dry wall how much more work would that take?

Lastly, I've been asked this a couple times, but is there a way to mount a plasma on the ceiling? 1 person I spoke to wanted to mount it facing down, another person I spoke to wanted a mount that comes off the ceiling, somehow, and then the plasma on the mount.

Maybe someone here can help me. I'm having a helluva time finding a stereo mini to RCA cable for my Sharp 32", that I want wall mounted, that's more then 7'. I've seen the crap standard stuff at Radio Shack, and I may have to deal with that, but I have to believe that there is something of better quality out there that is around the 9'-12' range?

Maybe someone here can help me. I'm having a helluva time finding a stereo mini to RCA cable for my Sharp 32", that I want wall mounted, that's more then 7'. I've seen the crap standard stuff at Radio Shack, and I may have to deal with that, but I have to believe that there is something of better quality out there that is around the 9'-12' range?

are you referring to something like this ?

http://www.soundprofessionals.com/cgi-bin/gold/item/SP-DCC-2

can someone guide me here - i would really really appreciate the help...i live on the 25th floor of a highrise and want to wallmount the tv...i believe there are aluminium studs in the wall...anyway have any idea how i go about with the installation...i bought the sanus wall mount, but am scared to drill holes in the wall, unless i am sure about what i am doing...

thanks!

Hi I was wondering what makes it so difficult to mount a plasma above a fireplace. Is it due to its height? Also what if the wall is not dry wall how much more work would that take?

Not really that difficult, although most of the times one is mounting to some kind of brick (need to use tapcons or sleeve anchors) and wire concelement isn't as easy (i had to use some wire channels along the ceiling.)


Lastly, I've been asked this a couple times, but is there a way to mount a plasma on the ceiling? 1 person I spoke to wanted to mount it facing down, another person I spoke to wanted a mount that comes off the ceiling, somehow, and then the plasma on the mount.

don't think i would mount a plasma facing down from the ceiling, gravity may have ill effects on the glass. peerless makes some ceiling mounts:
http://www.peerlessindustries.com/profile.cfm?ut=I&id=PLCM&sg=FPSS

are you referring to something like this ?

http://www.soundprofessionals.com/cgi-bin/gold/item/SP-DCC-2

No I need a stereo-mini to RCA (L&R) male like this-

http://www.yoursite.com/pc-171942-1960-belkin-corporation-f8v235-12.aspx

But that's the lowest quality there is. I've found quite a few Monster, Belkin, etc but they are all 7'. I need at least 8' with 9' offering the most slack.

No I need a stereo-mini to RCA (L&R) male like this-

http://www.yoursite.com/pc-171942-1960-belkin-corporation-f8v235-12.aspx

But that's the lowest quality there is. I've found quite a few Monster, Belkin, etc but they are all 7'. I need at least 8' with 9' offering the most slack.

ah... just get a mini extension cable then, i use one in a couple different setups and they work just poifect.

ah... just get a mini extension cable then, i use one in a couple different setups and they work just poifect.

Can you elaborate?

Can you elaborate?

sure :)

im using this mini extension (http://www.soundprofessionals.com/cgi-bin/gold/item/SP-SPSC-1) connected to a monster mini --> rca cable.

i've also purchased a cheap version at radioshack that works well, i believe it was a 6' extension.

MNbri- So you are saying to get the 7' cable and use a mini extension? There's no signal loss? I'm just nervous about having an extended cable in the wall. I'd rather it be one long cable, but that's a good back up idea.

MNbri- So you are saying to get the 7' cable and use a mini extension? There's no signal loss? I'm just nervous about having an extended cable in the wall. I'd rather it be one long cable, but that's a good back up idea.

i wouldn't worry about signal loss.

if you're worried about having the connection inside the wall then just get an extension long enough so the connection between it and the rca deally is outside the wall... or wrap the connection with electrical tape and call her good :p

rmcgirr,
There are mounts available that you can adapt so that the unit will still be centered even if the studs do not line up that way

the stud on my wall is not exactly centered. can you recommend some mount which will center the unit if the studs do not line up that way.

thanks

the stud on my wall is not exactly centered. can you recommend some stud which will center the unit if the studs do not line up that way.

Sanus mounts can do this. The overpriced Pio mount I almost bought, couldn't.

MNbri- Thanks.

rakeshreddyr- I'm in the same boat. For my 32" LCD, I found a mount that has a 6" vertical adjustment where it basically slides side to side. In my daughter's bedroom, her 20" LCD won't fit center either, the stud is about 4"-5" off center. I found a mount at www.mountsandmore.com (same retailer with the above mount for my 32") that is a swing arm mount. When closed, the arm extends to one side making it off center. I think that would make it almost center when the arm is closed.

MNbri- Thanks.

rakeshreddyr- I'm in the same boat. For my 32" LCD, I found a mount that has a 6" vertical adjustment where it basically slides side to side. In my daughter's bedroom, her 20" LCD won't fit center either, the stud is about 4"-5" off center. I found a mount at (same retailer with the above mount for my 32") that is a swing arm mount. When closed, the arm extends to one side making it off center. I think that would make it almost center when the arm is closed.

Kid Red,
Mine is a 26 lcd and the stud is off center by couple of inches. I was wondering which mount you used for your 32. I was thinking abt trying out the Sanus VM200s. Can anyone let me know if this mount can be used for side by side movement so that i can center the TV.

Thanks in Advance

Kid Red,
Mine is a 26 lcd and the stud is off center by couple of inches. I was wondering which mount you used for your 32. I was thinking abt trying out the Sanus VM200s. Can anyone let me know if this mount can be used for side by side movement so that i can center the TV.

Thanks in Advance


http://www.mountsandmore.com/prods/Peerless/ST640/0PPE0432.htm

It allows for a 6" horizontal adjustment. It's VESA 200 I think and you can email them to ask them to verify your LCD will fit if you are unsure.

I should have it mounted this week, so I'll let you know how much lateral adjustment is allowed for a 32".

For Metal Studs:

Some mounts come with several types of bolts for various purposes. Also you may call the mount manufacturer that may have bolts. IF not, I'm sure you can find some that are a similar size at Home Depot, Lowes or other hardware store. Drilling is the same, you just need the proper bit.

Fireplace mounts:

The difficult part isn't the mount but the wiring (as in where do you put the wires?). Even so, there is usually a lot of room between the face of the fireplace and the actual exhaust tube. Properly done it is still possible to do a concealed wall mount.

Special Jacks and such. Radio Shack actually sells decent stuff. Why don't you try their products first? Fry's Electronics carries a lot of stuff and I would suggest you try the forum sponsors above. I have had success finding most of what I need at Ram Electronics.

Studs off center:

Many mounts have horizontal adjustment. This means that the mounting plate does not have to be centered on the studs. The mounting bolts still go into the studs, but you can slide the mounting plate left or right a few inches to get teh mount centered on the wall. I think I have an omnimount which had this feature. You'll also want to look for a cutout in the mounting plate for your outlet and other wiring.

Ceiling mounts:

Contrary to the Philips commercials, you cannot hang a plasma on the ceiling (so that you would be looking at the ceiling to watch tv). Your set manual will tell you not to do this. I have no idea why, I recall seeing the reason in another thread some time ago, but I knwo you aren't supposed to do it.

After encountering two different family members recently who "couldn't find" a stud in their walls using a stud finder (I can't use them, everytime I grab it, the lights and beeps go wild ;) - seriously never had much luck with their reliability.). Although most probably know this, I'll post it again just in case.

Virtually all outlets (not added in later) are nailed directly to the side of a stud. If you have an outlet on the wall you are mounting on - Take the outlet cover off and then take a thin slotted screwdriver and slide (or wedge, shove, etc.) the blade of the screwdriver OUTSIDE the box (left or right side) - between the box and the drywall. One side you'll shove it right through with no obstructions, and on the other it will hit a stud. You should be able to locate all the studs on that wall at that point.

Remember to move away from the edge of the box by 3/4" to locate the actual center of the stud - then measure 16" (for the vast majority of applications - some could be 12" or 24") from that point - in either direction to locate the middle of any other stud.

As mentioned before - in this thread or another - it's a good idea to drill a small (I use a very small 1/16" bit) hole in the center to make sure you hit wood, then additional holes on either side until you define the exact edges of the stud (to make sure you mount dead center).

Sorry if this is stating the obvious - but thought I'd throw it out there for any others, like me, who have found stud finders to be less than helpful.

No I need a stereo-mini to RCA (L&R) male like this-

http://www.yoursite.com/pc-171942-1960-belkin-corporation-f8v235-12.aspx

But that's the lowest quality there is. I've found quite a few Monster, Belkin, etc but they are all 7'. I need at least 8' with 9' offering the most slack.

i know this may be a lil late, but thought i'd post anyway. kid red, i know u dont like radioshack stuff, but i have used this product: a mini-to RCA adapter (not cable) & then conneted whatever length RCA cable u want to it. 9' or 12' or whatever. it works just fine for me to.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102673&cp=&pg=7&kw=rca+adapter&parentPage=search

i know this may be a lil late, but thought i'd post anyway. kid red, i know u dont like radioshack stuff, but i have used this product: a mini-to RCA adapter (not cable) & then conneted whatever length RCA cable u want to it. 9' or 12' or whatever. it works just fine for me to.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102673&cp=&pg=7&kw=rca+adapter&parentPage=search


Thanks. As for the adapter, it's 1/8" and I believe the port on my Sharp is a 3.5mm which just adds to the confusion. Monster has an iPod cable that uses a 1/8" stereo mini, but my Apple iPod cable uses a 3.5mm cable and so does my Sharp LCD. I wish there was just a single standard, either way, the installer just added a Radio Shack cheap Belkin cable and I may just go with that as I can't find anything over 7".

After encountering two different family members recently who "couldn't find" a stud in their walls using a stud finder (I can't use them, everytime I grab it, the lights and beeps go wild ;) - seriously never had much luck with their reliability.). Although most probably know this, I'll post it again just in case.



As mentioned before - in this thread or another - it's a good idea to drill a small (I use a very small 1/16" bit) hole in the center to make sure you hit wood, then additional holes on either side until you define the exact edges of the stud (to make sure you mount dead center).


You can also just nail a tiny nail into the wall, might leave a smaller hole then drill, or in case someone doesn't have a small enough drill bit. That's what my installer did yesterday when he mounted my LCD because the stud finder was going crazy as well.

After encountering two different family members recently who "couldn't find" a stud in their walls using a stud finder (I can't use them, everytime I grab it, the lights and beeps go wild ;) - seriously never had much luck with their reliability.). Although most probably know this, I'll post it again just in case.

Virtually all outlets (not added in later) are nailed directly to the side of a stud. If you have an outlet on the wall you are mounting on - Take the outlet cover off and then take a thin slotted screwdriver and slide (or wedge, shove, etc.) the blade of the screwdriver OUTSIDE the box (left or right side) - between the box and the drywall. One side you'll shove it right through with no obstructions, and on the other it will hit a stud. You should be able to locate all the studs on that wall at that point.

Remember to move away from the edge of the box by 3/4" to locate the actual center of the stud - then measure 16" (for the vast majority of applications - some could be 12" or 24") from that point - in either direction to locate the middle of any other stud.

As mentioned before - in this thread or another - it's a good idea to drill a small (I use a very small 1/16" bit) hole in the center to make sure you hit wood, then additional holes on either side until you define the exact edges of the stud (to make sure you mount dead center).

Sorry if this is stating the obvious - but thought I'd throw it out there for any others, like me, who have found stud finders to be less than helpful.

I recommend a stud finder training session if you can't get a stud finder to work. ;)

agogley- I know you can find humor in it, but stud finders are not 100% reliable. My 15 years in the biz installer had his stud finder swearing I had a cross beam fire blocker in the wall. I swore that I didn't think I did, but the stud finder thought otherwise. We popped a nail into the wall and nothing was there.

No training needed, just more accurate stud finders ;)

I recommend a stud finder training session if you can't get a stud finder to work. ;)

It actually works perfectly - it just goes wild every time I pick it up. :)

I just purchased a Samsung LNR328W with a Omnimount cantilever single stud mount. The Samsung weighs 41 lbs. Will this be safe to mount on one stud?

Anyone?

As long as the mount is rated to support the weight of the Samsung all should be fine. You can email Ominmount to verify, or look for that mount on the net for it's specs.

As long as the mount is rated to support the weight of the Samsung all should be fine. You can email Ominmount to verify, or look for that mount on the net for it's specs.

Yea, it def is. Its pretty heavy duty and is rated to hold up to 37" flat panels.

K, got the outlet behind the wall of where the lcd will be hung, but now debating what to do with the power cable and the a/v cables. So far just HD cable box and dvd player which will be on a small table below the TV...

Just wondering....

What do professional installers do when there is no outlet directly behind the spot they are mounting the plasma/lcd. What do they do with the power cord, etc?

He ran mine thru the wall. I have the LCD like 6' off the floor, so the power cable goes inside the wall for like 4' and exits at the bottom thru an outlet. Then, the same power cable which is like 8' plugs into a surge protector. The wall is hollow and the power cord can be pulled out of the wall fairly easily so I'm not overly concerned with it.

Just wondering....

What do professional installers do when there is no outlet directly behind the spot they are mounting the plasma/lcd. What do they do with the power cord, etc?

my neighbor had an lcd mounted on the wall above his fireplace by a professional installer. they installed a new outlet on the wall directly behind (& therefore hidden) the lcd panel. i dont know which circuit they tied into, but that is similar to what i did myself. except i did not center the outlet in the wall, mine is situated slightly to the lower left.

i think it might be a (local) code violation to install a unit with a power cord conected behind the wall. but even if not, it does not seem a safe practice to me.

The cord inside the wall is up to code here. When we remodelled the bedroom I had a clock outlet installed up on the wall where I wanted the TV.

First time poster here, just found this site today.

Here is my plan:

-I will be getting a plasma (50" panny or maxent or vizio) in the next month or 2.
-My plan is to tear up my drywall underneath/behind where the plasma will go.
-I plan to put some 2x4's in for support where the mount will go.
-Install the largest electrical PVC that will fit into my wall.
-Use elbow pieces on the ends of the PVC that will be flush with the drywall.
-Use caps (similar to what you see on desks for cord holes) to give it a finished look.
-Run all my cables, including the power through the PVC.
-Replace Drywall and paint (already planning to paint the entire room)

I will have a low entertainment system for my a/v, dvd etc. This will block the view of the lower PVC opening. Of coarse the top opening of the PVC will be covered by the Plasma.

Whatcha Guys think?

hotwls,
not a bad idea. :) however, i would not run my signal wire & power wire in the same conduit. it could cause signal loss/inteference/distortion... general rule of thumb to run those in separate conduits.

hotwls,
not a bad idea. :) however, i would not run my signal wire & power wire in the same conduit. it could cause signal loss/inteference/distortion... general rule of thumb to run those in separate conduits.

So, if I ran 2 separate conduits (smaller in size) side by side, would that be fine? How much separation should there be? Is the PVC wall enough of a buffer?

I may just run a separate outlet box up from in the wall using romex. I think I can tap into the outlet down below.

Why are people using the recessed lamp plugs. Can't you just use a regular outlet? I haven't seen too many of the installed on walls up close, but once you use the mount, isn't there room for a regular outlet?

These are probably newb questions, but I plan to start demo on my wall in the next couple weeks and I want it to be right.

I also plan to build a couple Columns and mount them to the wall for my front surrounds.

I would like to mount my 42" Pany over the fireplace.

The fireplace is brick and I am installing a Peerless mounting bracket by drilling 3 holes 2 1/2" deep into the masonry flume. The fireplace uses gas logs.

Question: Anyone see a problem with drilling holes into the flume?

Regarding power and wiring, this is a bit more complicated. Wood paneling covers the brick and is 52" wide. Underneath it is the 36" wide masonry flume. On each side of the flume behind the paneling is a brick wall.

The plasma is 42" wide while the flume is 36" wide. This gives me 3" of clearance on each side of the flume for wiring.

My plan is to drill through the paneling and the brick to run my wiring.

Question: How do I cut the brick so that I can mount a one and/or two gang box for the recessed power outlet?

Question: Am I violating any code?

So, if I ran 2 separate conduits (smaller in size) side by side, would that be fine? How much separation should there be? Is the PVC wall enough of a buffer?

I may just run a separate outlet box up from in the wall using romex. I think I can tap into the outlet down below.

Why are people using the recessed lamp plugs. Can't you just use a regular outlet? I haven't seen too many of the installed on walls up close, but once you use the mount, isn't there room for a regular outlet?

These are probably newb questions, but I plan to start demo on my wall in the next couple weeks and I want it to be right.

I also plan to build a couple Columns and mount them to the wall for my front surrounds.

hotwls,
sorry for the delay in responding. but according to NEC (national electrical code) the minimum required separation between power & communication conduit is only 2"! :eek: i was surprised to know this. i was told after contacting Carlon (tech services department) & asking for a suggested distance. they also referenced NEC section 800-52.1. i would still try for as much separation as possible tho. i'm trying to keep mine at least 8" apart between power cable & speaker wiring in the basement. on the fireplace wall it will not be an issue because the power outlet (&wiring) will be on the right side & the signal outlets (& wiring) will be on the left side.

i used a recessed outlet to avoid the possibility of the cable being bent or pressured IF the back of the plasma is pushing against it. since i have NOT mounted my plasma i was not sure if that would be the case or not. i did it this way to minimize that chance occurring. hope that makes sense?

My 55inch Hitachi (55HDT52) is due to arrive in one week (although I'm having slight buyers remorse that I didn't fork out the extra $1,500 for the Directors series 55HDX62) and I need some mounting advice.

I will be wall mounting into an odd wall. Our family room was added in the 1950's as an attachment to the outside of our 1937 house. The wall that will bear the plasma has multiple layers. The outer layer is 3/8 inch slotted wood panelling. Behind that is the stuco surface of what originally was the outer wall of the house- probably about 3/4 inch to an inch thick. Behind that I believe are thin (1/4 inch) lathe strips and behind that are the studs.

How the heck do I figure out how to mount against something like this? I would like to use lag bolts that extend into the studs, but finding them through all these layers is likely to require a lot of damage to the paneling etc... I read above that the outlets may provide some clues. Any other advice?

Also, I'm planning to purchase a Sanus VisionMount VMSAs unless anyone has better recommendation for a mount.

Thx! This forum has been extremely valuable in my HT pursuits that past two months!

They attached paneling right over the stucco? That seems odd. Most likely they studded out the wall or at least used furring strips and attached the paneling over that. Are their outlets on that wall?

They attached paneling right over the stucco? That seems odd. Most likely they studded out the wall or at least used furring strips and attached the paneling over that. Are their outlets on that wall?

Yes. There are outlets. You may be right regarding the furring, however, it is definately not studded. I won't know until I start drilling. Let's say there is furring, what would the preferred mounting method be?

Thx!

hotwls,
i used a recessed outlet to avoid the possibility of the cable being bent or pressured IF the back of the plasma is pushing against it. since i have mounted my plasma i was not sure if that would be the case or not. i did it this way to minimize that chance occurring. hope that makes sense?

Where did you find the recessed outlet?

Yes. There are outlets. You may be right regarding the furring, however, it is definately not studded. I won't know until I start drilling. Let's say there is furring, what would the preferred mounting method be?

Thx!

Well provided your stucco is strong, I'd say find a furring strip, drill through that and use a concrete anchor in the stucco. Some people said have used Tapcons with good luck, but they'd have to chime in on those.

Check your outlets on that wall, are they the usual 3" deep? If so are was the stucco cut our to accomodate them or are the furring strips 3" deep? If they are 3" deep, find those centers and just bolt into them.

In my situation I have 1" furring strips over concrete block. I chose to just use 1.5" lag bolts to go through the drywall into the furring strips. But I only have a 42" that weights 70lbs and the mount is rated for 165lbs using 2.5" bolts. I weight 170lbs and I hung on the mount and it didn't budge. But I probably wouldn't of done that with a heavier 50" plasma and definitely not a 55".

Another option you could do is what was suggested to someone else and build a false wall in front of the exisitng wall. Make it big enough to accomodate the plasma and speakers and sheetrock and paint it or even use furniture grade plywood and stain it nice. Or you could just mount some plywood to the wall hitting as many furring strips as possible and just mount the plasma to the plywood for strength.

Are you going to have a piece of furniture below it? I know you can buy a mount that will attach to an existing piece of furniture and float the plasma like it was attached to the wall.

Ok, I think all the options I can come up with.

Where did you find the recessed outlet?


They are called clock sockets. Any electrical supply store should have them, mine cost around 8.00. Home Depot did not carry them.

Well provided your stucco is strong, I'd say find a furring strip, drill through that and use a concrete anchor in the stucco. Some people said have used Tapcons with good luck, but they'd have to chime in on those.

Check your outlets on that wall, are they the usual 3" deep? If so are was the stucco cut our to accomodate them or are the furring strips 3" deep? If they are 3" deep, find those centers and just bolt into them.

In my situation I have 1" furring strips over concrete block. I chose to just use 1.5" lag bolts to go through the drywall into the furring strips. But I only have a 42" that weights 70lbs and the mount is rated for 165lbs using 2.5" bolts. I weight 170lbs and I hung on the mount and it didn't budge. But I probably wouldn't of done that with a heavier 50" plasma and definitely not a 55".

Another option you could do is what was suggested to someone else and build a false wall in front of the exisitng wall. Make it big enough to accomodate the plasma and speakers and sheetrock and paint it or even use furniture grade plywood and stain it nice. Or you could just mount some plywood to the wall hitting as many furring strips as possible and just mount the plasma to the plywood for strength.

Are you going to have a piece of furniture below it? I know you can buy a mount that will attach to an existing piece of furniture and float the plasma like it was attached to the wall.

Ok, I think all the options I can come up with.

Thanks-- great list of options. I need to think about this one more, but first I need to inspect the wall near the sockets and see what I get.... I'll keep you posted.

They are called clock sockets. Any electrical supply store should have them, mine cost around 8.00. Home Depot did not carry them.


EXACTLY!. i got mine from lowe's & cos54 is right. for some odd reason home depots here (GA) do not carry them. looks exactly like this one:
http://www.residential-landscape-lighting-design.com/store/PPF/parameters/234_77/more_info.asp


there's also an alternative one like this:
http://www.builderdepot.com/browse.ihtml?pid=221090&step=5&prodstoreid=2860

EXACTLY!. i got mine from lowe's & cos54 is right. for some odd reason home depots here (GA) do not carry them. looks exactly like this one:
http://www.residential-landscape-lighting-design.com/store/PPF/parameters/234_77/more_info.asp


there's also an alternative one like this:
http://www.builderdepot.com/browse.ihtml?pid=221090&step=5&prodstoreid=2860

Thanks to both.

I really like the idea of that second Panamax unit. Now if it only had an optional HMDI connector that would be great. :cool:

I just ordered the Panamax unit to be placed directly behind my new plasma that I'll be picking up next weekend. Question on the install of the Panamax.... Does it require a gangbox? Or is it integrated? It's going to be in the same space as an existing outlet near the floor. The Panamax outlet will be approximately six feet higher. The existing outlet is the last in the series, so I should just tie off the unused side of the existing gang box with Romex. So are there terminals that are on the Panamax unit to hook the Romex too? Jeez that sounds stupid as I type it...
Thanks guys...
Chad

I just ordered the Panamax unit to be placed directly behind my new plasma that I'll be picking up next weekend. Question on the install of the Panamax.... Does it require a gangbox? Or is it integrated? It's going to be in the same space as an existing outlet near the floor. The Panamax outlet will be approximately six feet higher. The existing outlet is the last in the series, so I should just tie off the unused side of the existing gang box with Romex. So are there terminals that are on the Panamax unit to hook the Romex too? Jeez that sounds stupid as I type it...
Thanks guys...
Chad

Let us know how it goes.

From the picture the Panamax unit has a gang box already. Unfortunately, it looks like a new-work type of box which would mean you need to attach the box to a stud.

Also, if you're installing against an exterior wall there will most likely will be horizontal blocks between the studs. Check for these with a stud finder or small nail.

As for the existing outlet. Just leave it installed. If it's the last in the series then just use the two unused screws in the outlet to attached your new white/black wires to. (Do NOT reverse them!) Otherwise, use wire nuts and pigtail wires to the existing outlet.

Lastly, remember to find the circuit breaker for the outlet you're working with and torn it off! :eek:

Here's a link to the Panamax MIW series http://www.panamax.com/products.cfm?group=22&sec=group

I sent an eMail to Panamax asking about HDMI or DVI module to add. This was their response.

Thank you for your email. Unfortunately, we do not have a DVI or HDMI connectors module nor we are planning to add them to our product line. Please do check with us from time to time, as we are coming out with a lot of products this mid year.

Sincerely,

Customer Support Specialist

Is there any reference as to how high off the floor a 43" display should be hung? Seating is about 8'-10' from the TV. "Eye Level" isn't easy since whose eyes do you level? The 5' wife's eyes, the 6' husbands eyes or even the 4' kids eyes. :)

Anyone got any step-by-step pictures on how to wall-mount a flat-panel display? The link at the beginning of this thread takes you to pictures with the RED Xs. Thanks.

It does? Hmmm, let me see if I can't fix that. :)

Is there any reference as to how high off the floor a 43" display should be hung? Seating is about 8'-10' from the TV. "Eye Level" isn't easy since whose eyes do you level? The 5' wife's eyes, the 6' husbands eyes or even the 4' kids eyes. :)

My 50" is 4' from floor to center of screen. If I was really picky, I would have dropped it another 3-4" (Probably what I was used to with my CRT). Anything significantly lower or higher looks corny mounted on the wall IMHO. It's mainly personal preference. Try taping some paper or poster board together the same size as the TV and move it around the wall a bit until you are satisfied before you mount the TV; also remember most people slouch on the sofa and don't sit perfectly upright!

It does? Hmmm, let me see if I can't fix that. :)

Sorry not my site...ergo can't fix.

Is there any reference as to how high off the floor a 43" display should be hung? Seating is about 8'-10' from the TV. "Eye Level" isn't easy since whose eyes do you level? The 5' wife's eyes, the 6' husbands eyes or even the 4' kids eyes. :)

I think it's more important to look at the reflection issues in your viewing space and the aesthetic placement of the unit than it is to be concerned about the height as a function of your eye level. My plasma screen center is about 6 feet up, but the reason it is is because we (wife and I) wanted the top edge of the unit to line up with the top edge of the two doors on either side of it, and for it to be centered horizonally on the wall. In other words, we hung it like a big picture. Turns out, by putting it up higher than average, it catches fewer reflections from lights and windows. Most of the reflected image is from the ceiling. It's about 10 feet away from us, and about a foot above our heads when we're sitting, so it's a slight upward angle for watching. You don't even notice it, and it keeps it up out of the way.

I had cut out a piece of wrapping paper (it was Christmas, after all) the same size as the panel and taped it up on the wall to use as a planning guide. If I was doing this again, I'd go find some metallic finish, reflective wrapping paper and I'd test my location in daytime and in the evening with all the lights on. I'd find a location and a height that, when viewers and sitting in their normal locations, minimizes reflection and glare, and just plan looks good.

Plasmas (like mine) don't have any significant falloff in image quality based on up/down viewing angle (or side to side, for that matter). So mounting the unit above sitting eye height on the wall was not an issue. But reflection and glare is more of an issue in plasmas, and less of an issue with LCDs. I don't know about LCDs regarding up/down angles--I think they're a bit more sensitive to viewing angle, but not much.

Of course, lights and windows can be modified to help with glare too. Switching to indirect lighting, spot cans, and shades for bright windows will all go towards fixing glare. So ultimately, I think you can pretty much locate your panel like you do a picture.

bw

So I've read a lot about running your television's power cord through the wall being against electrical code, but I figured I'd bring this up anyways. So I had some audio installation guys over to take a look at my house and give me a quote on setting up my audio system, running wiring, etc. Well I found these guys off the CEDIA website and they saw that all my video cables from my plasma and the power cord was exposed and they said they would clean up that mess too by routing the cables through the wall. So I told him I thought running the power cable through the wall was against electrical code, but he said it wasn't and that it was fine. I asked if he would install a clock outlet behind the TV but he said that he would run the plasma's power cable through the wall and bring it out near the wall outlet. Do these guys just not know what they are talking about with regards to electrical code?

Thanks.

I have a wall space that is 47" wide (that is actually the entire width of the wall). I have a Sharp 45" LCD that is 44.5" wide that I wish to hang using a Sanus VMSAS Universal Plasma/LCD TV Wall Mount which pulls out and rotates and tilts.

Problem is, how can I determine where, on this wall, the mount should go so that when the screen is pushed all the way back to the wall it will be dead center on the wall? Unfortunaly I won't be able to mount this mount to a beam as the 2 beams (other then the beams on the left and right corners) aren't centered in any way or manner. My plan is to mount a piece of 5/8" plywood to the walls 4 beams then bolting the mount (with additional holes drilled) to the plywood. The plywood will be mounted directly to the beams (4 of them).

Will 5/8" plywood be strong enough to hold the 45" Sharp Aquos (about 60LBS) if the mount is bolted to it with 6 bolts into the plywood (probably not catching the beams) and how do I determine where the mount need to be attached to the wall so the TV is centered when pushed back?

So I've read a lot about running your television's power cord through the wall being against electrical code, but I figured I'd bring this up anyways. So I had some audio installation guys over to take a look at my house and give me a quote on setting up my audio system, running wiring, etc. Well I found these guys off the CEDIA website and they saw that all my video cables from my plasma and the power cord was exposed and they said they would clean up that mess too by routing the cables through the wall. So I told him I thought running the power cable through the wall was against electrical code, but he said it wasn't and that it was fine. I asked if he would install a clock outlet behind the TV but he said that he would run the plasma's power cable through the wall and bring it out near the wall outlet. Do these guys just not know what they are talking about with regards to electrical code?

Thanks.

rdilliker, i think the power cord connection is based on local building codes. i could be mistaken & someone please intervene if i am, but either way a quick call to your county's local building department could give a more direct answer.

rdilliker, i think the power cord connection is based on local building codes. i could be mistaken & someone please intervene if i am, but either way a quick call to your county's local building department could give a more direct answer.

Thanks, I'll call them up. I thought people had mentioned in this thread that it was national code, but I'm not sure.

I've read all of the posts on this thread, but I haven't seen this question yet. I'd like to install conduit from my audio stack to the plasma mounted above the fireplace. This would make it real easy to run new cables as the technology changes. My issue is that this is an existing home on a wall that is most likely load bearing. I can't imagine it's a smart thing to drill a 2" hole in the studs? Is there another way? What would be an acceptable hole in my situation? I'll need to run 1-2 HDMI cables, 1 component and 1 VGA at a minimum. Any information will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jeff

are you planning to run all wire behind the wall? or will it be in front (or above ground at the audio stack)? have any conceptual sketch to depict?

I've decided to take the cables up into the attic then down to the plasma. This will add about 10' total, but that sounds like a better option. My total lenght will be around 25' instead of 15'. I think the video degredation will be minimal.

Thanks,
Jeff

I've decided to take the cables up into the attic then down to the plasma. This will add about 10' total, but that sounds like a better option. My total lenght will be around 25' instead of 15'. I think the video degredation will be minimal.

Thanks,
Jeff

good luck. be careful of insulation & studs when opening & pulling cable behind walls tho.

Could anyone tell me where I can get a flush or low profile powercord?or Is there anywhere I can buy the parts to do it myself? I do all my own Electrical. Either one is fine. I have a Toshiba 50HP95 mounted on a VMSA mount and the powercord hits the Plasma when against the wall. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Could anyone tell me where I can get a flush or low profile powercord?or Is there anywhere I can buy the parts to do it myself? I do all my own Electrical. Either one is fine. I have a Toshiba 50HP95 mounted on a VMSA mount and the powercord hits the Plasma when against the wall. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Have you thought about a recessed outlet like this one???---->Panamax Outlet (http://www.panamax.com/products.cfm?group=1&sec=detail&id=219&ly=h)

They can also be found on some auction sites for about half MSRP!

Have you thought about a recessed outlet like this one???---->Panamax Outlet (http://www.panamax.com/products.cfm?group=1&sec=detail&id=219&ly=h)

They can also be found on some auction sites for about half MSRP!

Thanks for the advice, but I have already installed a dedicated 20 Amp outlet, and have a Intermatic surge on my panel box.

Could anyone tell me where I can get a flush or low profile powercord?or Is there anywhere I can buy the parts to do it myself? I do all my own Electrical. Either one is fine. I have a Toshiba 50HP95 mounted on a VMSA mount and the powercord hits the Plasma when against the wall. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

just buy an "appliance" extension cord, they always have the 90 degree plug.

http://www.applianceblog.com/archives/ApplianceCord3326.jpg

go to eBay & buy this one & hard wire it to your existing cord if it doesn't fit.

"Power Cord angled 90 degree head for merit, table game Item number: 6267653972"

here is a design idea to mount your flat panel TV's.
http://www.neelapala.com/designs/ddish.htm

Make sure you secure the slat to the wood studs. if your studs are 16" o.c you can get both the outer slats to line up with the studs, if your studs are 24" o.c get the centre slat to line up with the stud.

if you have any further questions post a question for me at the link.

worst possible case you can still get away with the slats secured to the dry wall as long as you use proper drywall anchors and make sure the load is transfered to the floor below using the slats. you can stain the slats to your taste. run your cables behind the slats.

Is there any reference as to how high off the floor a 43" display should be hung? Seating is about 8'-10' from the TV. "Eye Level" isn't easy since whose eyes do you level? The 5' wife's eyes, the 6' husbands eyes or even the 4' kids eyes. :)

typically the couches we have in our living rooms have an approx seating height of 15-16" and based on that the eye level of an average adult (based on architectural graphic standards that we use) falls around 3'9" and 4'-0".
Since we dont sit upright when we watch TV I'd say centering the TV in between 3'-6" and 3'-9" should work perfectly for most living rooms.
I'd recommend slightly higher if the veiwing distance is longer.

see for graphic image
http://www.neelapala.com/designs/ddish.htm

here is a design idea to mount your flat panel TV's.

Run your cables behind the slats.


What a great idea; many thanks. I have been trying to figure out a good alternative to hiding cables behind the wall, but using track covers just doesn't have much appeal. This way, I could edge the slats with a router, stain the slats to match our speakers, and the WAF would go up dramatically.

I just built a homemade wall mount yesterday for my 42" Visio. I needed to aim the tv down and to the right so a normal mount would not of worked. I wasn't willing on spending $350+ on a fully articulated mount so building was the best bet.

Parts List:
(2) 8" L Bracket (Heavy Duty)
(2) 5" L Bracket (Heavy Duty)
(2) 16" Strap Tie's
(2) 3' Angle Iron ( the pre drilled with oval mounting holes)
(8) 5/16 x 2 1/2 Lag Screws
(4) 5/16 1" Bolts & nuts

The total cost of parts, from Home Depot, was $33.00. The tools I needed were: stud finder, drill, nail, pencil, socket set, dremmel and a metal cutting saw. I used the stud finder, nail and pencil to find the edges of 2 studs in my wall. The basic idea is to use the L brackets on the wall. The top two brackets are mounted in the normal way and the bottom two are mounted upside down in the "L" position. Since the tv needed to aim to the right, I used the 8" brackets on the left and the 5" on the right. I mounted the top two brackets first. I used the flat Strap Ties to widen the load against the sheet rock wall. You need to figure where all 4 brackets need to go on the wall, then transfer the 8 mounting holes to the two strap tie's. Using a 1/4" drill bit, pre-drill the wall for the lag bolts. Then using 4 of the lag bolts, mount the strap ties and top brackets to the wall.
Then I mounted the two angle iron's to the back of my TV. These are mounted horizontally on the 4 stand off's. Even with the oval holes I needed to modify the angle iron to fit on my TV. I used my dremmel to cut out the section between two holes. My TV had two long and two short stand offs. The long ones were designed for the top two mounting holes. But I had to use them on the bottom two holes so that the angle iron wouldn't crush the back of my TV. This setup left the top angle iron 1" closer to the TV than the bottom one. This wasn't a problem because I was going to shorten the bottom two brackets anyway so that the TV aimed down a little bit.
Next I put the TV up on the top brackets and dropped two 5/16 bolts through the holes to secure it. Then I positioned the TV so that it aimed down the way that I wanted, I used a tape measure to see the distance between the lower angle iron's holes and the wall at the two lower bracket locations. For me the numbers were 3" for the right side and 5" for the left side. Remove the TV from the wall ( even though my TV was pretty solid on two of the brackets, I wouldn't leave the TV up there too long).
Next I cut and redrilled the end of the two lower brackets to the proper length and then mounted them to the strap tie/wall. All that is left now is to put the TV back up on the now 4 brackets and drop in the four 5/16 bolts. I had to drill a new hole in the lower angle iron because the holes didn't line up, but that was pretty easy with the TV on the wall. The use nuts or lock nuts to secure.

DONE, I can't see this thing ever coming down, with (8) 5/16 lag bolts into 2 studs. I wonder if the mounts will sag, but with the weight of the TV on the 4 brackets I haven't seen any deflection yet. I don't know if I needed the strap ties, but for a couple of bucks, I wanted the insurance that the brackets didn't compress into the sheet rock.

Jim Kindley

While installing my Santus tilt/mount, 2 of the 4 lag bolts snapped while tightening w/ a socket wrench. We drilled the proper sized pilot holes in advance.
I had some plated non-galv ones from another project, so we ended up using them @ an angle.

While installing my Santus tilt/mount, 2 of the lag bolts snapped while tightening w/ a socket wrench. We drilled the proper sized pilot holes in advance.
I had some plated non-galv ones from another project, so we ended up using them @ an angle.

Could anyone tell me where I can get a flush or low profile powercord?or Is there anywhere I can buy the parts to do it myself? I do all my own Electrical. Either one is fine. I have a Toshiba 50HP95 mounted on a VMSA mount and the powercord hits the Plasma when against the wall. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

http://www.accessories4less.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=ACPowerCords&item=TRIBIECACRA015

While installing my Santus tilt/mount, 2 of the lag bolts snapped while tightening w/ a socket wrench. We drilled the proper sized pilot holes in advance.
I had some plated non-galv ones from another project, so we ended up using them @ an angle.

RoseRX,

I had the same problem, and had to purchase new lag bolts as well. They worked fine. How did you install your power? I wired a new outlet behind my LCD with romex all to code, and purchased a Monster Power surge protector. It’s a low profile one that plugs into the outlet and then you plug the LCD into it. It’s rated at 1100 Joules. I checked out the PanaMax In-Wall outlet that everybody is referring to, but it says its only rated at 675 Joules. Anyway I hope that 1100 is enough.

big questions...hope i can get some help from everyone!!!


1. which one of the below mounts does everyone suggest? i'm mounting a panasonic 42/60u.

h**p://www.costco.com/Browse/Productgroup.aspx?Prodid=11135149&whse=BC&topnav=&browse=
h**p://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11134171&whse=BC&topnav=&browse=
h**p://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=10042361&whse=BC&topnav=&browse=&bp=category&eCat=BC%7C79%7C28599&img=1

2. live in a highrise. anyone have advice for mounting to aluminum studs? is it recommended? how can i go about safely doing it?

that's it. thanks to everyone for your help!!!!!

-j

Any idea how much space I need above the TV when I go to lift it up on the wall mount bracket? I have been told I need a minimum of 6" clearance to lift it up on to the flush bracket.

Any idea how much space I need above the TV when I go to lift it up on the wall mount bracket? I have been told I need a minimum of 6" clearance to lift it up on to the flush bracket.
Really depends on the mount, but my Sanus VMPL2 only needs a couple inches or so for the "hooks" to clear the wall plate and lock-in.

Thanks GoHD. I'm going to look at the initial construction of the wall unit tonight and was suddenly concerned I had not accounted for enough space to lift the Panel on to the wall bracket. I've got about 4" to 5" inches of space so it sounds like I may be O.K. It sounds like worst case I can go with an articulated arm and loose a little distance (added thickness of folded support arms) and I think they are more expensive. thanks for responding.

I'm curious as to what others strategy has been regarding running cables? Did you run everything possible that your display could accept to maximize connectivity options?

I'm looking at mounting to an external wall in an existing house so I don't think running conduit is a possibility. There will be times when I want to just use the tv's speakers and not my surround system.

I'm curious as to what others strategy has been regarding running cables? Did you run everything possible that your display could accept to maximize connectivity options?.
That's what I did! Of course, I use only one HDMI and one component set now.

Kal

Thanks Kal!

Did you have a conduit or did you drill lots of holes? :D

I'd really like to try running the cables myself but I am NOT a handy person. I do have a huge crawlspace and i'd only be running the cables to the adjacent wall 10-12' away.

No conduit. Inside wall. Put a hole behind the PDPmount and filled it with a Panamax 3way Max-In-Wall panel. Fed the cables down to the crawl space, across the crawl space to another hole (with another MIW) behind the equipment rack about 6-7feet away. Actually, my electricians did the work.

Kal

I've had my 50" plasma for about two months. In about two weeks we'll have a new entertainment center so I'll need to mount the plasma to that.

The entertainment center has a back board that the plasma will mount to. The back board is solid wood, 1/2" thick. I have a new Peerless wall mount that I'll use.

Any hints or things to watch out for? I've mounted one flat panel to a wall before so I'm familiar with the procedure. Thinking it through, the thing I'm most concerned about is making sure the 1/2" back board is securely mounted so the plasma and mount won't come crashing down.

I wouldn't trust a 1/2" board without secure reinforcement (braces in rear) and some assurance that it is securely mounted, itself.

Kal

Another question for the experts:

How do you successfully guestimate what length of cables you'll need when you are running behind a wall, into a crawlspace and up on another wall?

I'm planning on running cables for my flat panel from one wall, down through the crawlspace and into the adjacent wall. If I measure the distances out its approximately 5' to the floor and 12' run over to the wall and 1' up the wall with 2' of cable outside the wall to run to the equipment. About 20' total distance.

How much of a "fudge" factor do you allow for under the crawlspace? 10%, 20%, 50%?

RoseRX,

I had the same problem, and had to purchase new lag bolts as well. They worked fine. How did you install your power? I wired a new outlet behind my LCD with romex all to code, and purchased a Monster Power surge protector. It’s a low profile one that plugs into the outlet and then you plug the LCD into it. It’s rated at 1100 Joules. I checked out the PanaMax In-Wall outlet that everybody is referring to, but it says its only rated at 675 Joules. Anyway I hope that 1100 is enough.


What do u guys mean that the bolt snapped? I screwed mine in and nothing seemed to go wrong. Will I definetly know if my bolts have snapped? Thanks.

What do u guys mean that the bolt snapped? I screwed mine in and nothing seemed to go wrong. Will I definetly know if my bolts have snapped? Thanks.

Generally, you should pre-drill a pilot whole for a lag bolt so it doens't split the 2x4 behind the wall or snap off the bold head.

Yes - you'd know it if busted the bolt head off.

I want to wall mount a 32 inch Vizio LCD. The desired location is somewhat midway between wood studs at 16" O.C. I want a slight tilt down and slight swivel to the left.
Question: Since the articulating mount that I might use is meant for hitting one stud only,
Can I mount 3/4"X 12"High X 20" Wide pine to the surface of the gyp bd. and anchor securely into studs? This way I can mount the mount at a location on the pine. Wire management will probably surface until I decide to get inventive with that. Thanks

IMO, yes. Not a bad idea, if the appearance is acceptable to you (and yours, if applicable :))

I am trying to mount my 50" plasma on an articulating CHIEF mount in the center of my wall. Problem is, my wall has a center stud. If it were drywall, I'd just carve it out, add horizontal stud braces and move on. But it's f----g plaster lathe. I was set on mounting this in the center of the wall, but I know plastering is an art. Anyone have any less invasive or less difficult solutions?

Hi Folks,

Have many of you mounted your lcd / plasma to a metal studs? I was planning on using the wall between by livingroom and bedroom. The wall consists of sheetrock --> metal stud --> sheetrock.

My question is I want to mount a 42" panny 60 or 600 to the wall (approx 100lbs with mount). If I span the mount across 2 studs will it be sufficient to hold the unit? Will the wall start to pull to one side or begin to bow?

Because of the location I wanted to use an articulating mount so I could pull out the tv and turn it approx 45 degress so I can watch it while in the kitchen. Will this extra stress on the metal studs be ok or should I stick to a mount that does not extend from the wall.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thx

I have the same problem. How to mount 42in plasma (100lbs) + mount (25lbs) to metals studs behind drywall. ANY help would be great!!!!! Not sure how strong the metals studs are.

^^^^ Use toggle bolts and go through the metal studs. Allow the end in the wall to rest on the metal stud. I have done it on many installs. We do not subcontract our installations here, that is why I am secure about giving advise.

Disclaimer: Always mount at your own risk. I know I can make this work, but every situation requires thought and on board trouble shooting!

I installed 2 Philips 42" yesterday and it turned out pretty good. This was into solid Oak though.
http://www.clevelandplasma.com/cms_files/Image/DSCF0931.jpg

Glad to see this thread still kicking.

Anyway for those mounting flat to the wall you need to remember that most, if not all, weight will be down the wall towards the floor...not away from the wall towards the opposing wall.

Those with articulating mounts...ignore what I just said.

Plaster stinks, btw, for mounting anything.

Ok, folks my wife and I decided on the panasonic 50PX60U. The one stipulation my wife made was that the unit be wall mounted. Now, Im not super handy but I can measure, drill and cut molding - lets say intermediate stuff. Here are my 2 problems
1. Exterior wall. Has to be that way because of the layout of the living room.
2. Mounting area is between (2) 6ftx32inch windows approx 52 inches apart.
Inbetween these 2 windows are (3) 16inch studs. With one being exactly in the center between the windows.

Now how in the world and I going to get a solid anchor on 2 or more studs?
None of the mounts I have seen on-line really cover 32+ inches on the wall
Most bases for these mounts are around 25-27 inches. A few short of hitting
(2) or (3) studs. I have considered screwing (2) 33 inch 2x1's across the 3 studs and hitting them good with lag bolts and then screwing my plasma mount to the 2x1's

Is this the best approach?

PS house was built in '85 in Charlotte NC. What am I up against trying to
fish wire thru that exerior wall?

Thanks for any advise.

*** Update *** Using my stud finder I have determined that this exterior wall
indeed has Fireblocks Now granted I could get one of those 5ft flexable drill bits
and punch a hole in that fireblock actually big freaking hole as I need to run
the following. (1) HDMI/HDMI, (1) DVI/HDMI, (1) Component and (4) sets of
audio cables. Receiver only has dvd and tv input so All audio/video must run thru
the tv.

Hi everyone, I have a couple of questions. WE are planning on mounting our 50" plasma over our fireplace. It is wood burning and we do use it a fair amount. We've never noticed any excessive heat over the mantle. The opening over the mantle is pretty tight vertically about 30in increasing to 35in due to a sloped ceiling. The tv is about 29.5in. So when you facor in the depth of the mount, basically we'll be trying to mount a 29.5in tv into a 31in space. Do you think this is possible. Would using an articulating mount make this easier? i.e. pull out the mount past the mantle in order to attach tv and then adjust tv into place. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

^^^^^ Need pics. Every install is unique.

A tilt mount always being tilted may work, however I am not sure I understand 100%. What degree does the ceiling slope? Articulating arm may work also but will hold you off the wall a good distance.

Disclaimer: Always mount at your own risk. I know I can make this work, but every situation requires thought and on board trouble shooting!

1. Exterior wall. Has to be that way because of the layout of the living room.
2. Mounting area is between (2) 6ftx32inch windows approx 52 inches apart.
Inbetween these 2 windows are (3) 16inch studs. With one being exactly in the center between the windows.


Use a Sanus VMPL mount (spans 32") and you will have to mount the plate off center. The Lags must use the first screw slot and then 16" in put the other lags and yes 10" will overhang unsupported but that is OK as long as the lags have a good bite. TV will have to be set to the extreme opposite side but should be able to be centered in the center of opening. If this will not get you dead center another option is use the center stud and mount in the center of the plate and use toggle bolts on each end. As always give it the hang test when you are done. Hang from the mount, it it can support you it will support a screen. (of corse since you may be using toggle bolts apply a lot of pressure, not your full weight.)


Disclaimer: Always mount at your own risk. I know I can make this work, but every situation requires thought and on board trouble shooting!

did this myself in late june...
got it up and mounted on the metal studs...
will put up some illus and step by step instructions regarding what i did...

it's very cool...

it's late, and i'm tired.
so, give me over the next couple of days...

-j

Hey Cleveland Plasma--I'm attepmting to post a couple pics of our install issues. Can you give me any info on the safety of fireplace mounting? That wall is the only option other than the wall the old tv is on, and we don't like that location. Also, I have a question about the routing of the a/c cord, HDMI, component and audio cables. Can I run them all together or do they need to be separate? Any clarification would help. Thanks alot :)

^^^^ Looks like a tilt mount would gain the distance you need. It will probably have less of a tilt option though. I would recommend cutting a piece of cardboard out the exact size of the tv at the back and putting it were the mount will go. The Sanus VMPL will hold you 2.5" off the wall to begin with. I would also use Tapcon Screws (http://www.confast.com/products/tapcon-concretescrew.aspx#tapcon) in the brick, however if you brick is to hard go into the mortar. As always give it the hang test when you are done. Hang from the mount, it it can support you it will support a screen.

Disclaimer: Always mount at your own risk. I know I can make this work, but every situation requires thought and on board trouble shooting! When in dought contact a custom installer.

Need to mount a 42" panny on a wall. My stud finder finds studs, but when I drill there I just find space behind the dry wall/sheet rock or whatever it is. It is not plaster.

There do not appear to be any studs directly behind my wall.

I have about 17" of clearance between the wall and the foot of the bed. The plasma furniture I see around is too deep.

Any suggestions on how I can get my plasma up without studs OR some thin funiture I can put it on?

All walls, or at least the ones I have ever seen, have studs at 16 or 12" OC (on center). You may be getting a false reading from your stud finder due to electrical wiring. You do have studs...that I can guarantee.

Need to mount a 42" panny on a wall.

I have about 17" of clearance between the wall and the foot of the bed. The plasma furniture I see around is too deep ... OR some thin funiture I can put it on?
If you (or your significant other) demand that the plasma sit on "real" furniture, you may just need to be a bit more creative in searching -- instead of just looking at "entertainment centers," search for sofa tables, dining room buffets or side boards that are often 16-18" deep. Sometimes these items are also a bit higher than TV stands, so you won't have to lift your neck to see over the foot of your bed! :D

I have found a couple of pieces including this:

http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?topcategoryId=17071&catalogId=10103&storeId=12&langId=-1&parentCats=17071&productId=76871&chosenPartNumber=70103090

Not ideal. But would do the trick.

My main reason for putting the plasma in the Bedroom was to get more space in there. The furniture would kill my plan.

How can I find out for sure if there are studs somewhere in the wall? I currently have 4, 1/4" holes drilled into the wall. In each there is just space behind the wall... then another wall which I am pretty sure is my neighbors' apartment. Is it possible that there are no studs between our apartments?

I have found a couple of pieces including this:

[url]... Is it possible that there are no studs between our apartments?Ummmmmmm -- no. Something is holding the sheetrock up, and keeping the roof from crushing you while you sleep. ;)

If you're uncertain what you're doing, spend a few dollars and hire someone to hang the plasma.

I definitely fall into the category of not knowing what I am doing. To this point I have been relying on the superintendent of my building for advise. He couldnt find the studs either.

When in dought call up a pro :)

When in dought call up a pro :)

Any suggestions on who could help me out in Manhattan, NY? And what it might cost?

Question: here is my situation, I am getting a 37w3 westinghouse lcd monitor and i want to mount it on the wall in my room. My house is a log cabin and is made of wood. In my room where i want to put the mount the wood wall is about 2-3 inches thick and then there a open crawl space. Will screwing a compatible wall mount in the wall hold the lcd on the wall, if the screws go through the wall to the other side is it strong enough to hold the tv? thanks

^^^^ 2-3 inches of solid wood for an 37" LCD would be fine. If you are worried about the screws going through add a 3/4 inch piece of plywood on that wall seeing it is a crawl space. As always give it the hang test when you are done. Hang from the mount, it it can support you it will support a screen.

Disclaimer: Always mount at your own risk. I know I can make this work, but every situation requires thought and on board trouble shooting! When in dought contact a custom installer.

thanks for your help yea i think ill just get some plywood and use that as support.

Any suggestions on who could help me out in Manhattan, NY? And what it might cost? If you do not mind patching small holes, hammer a nail in every inch and sooner or later you will hit a stud. Then find another and you will be on your way. For TV's 42" and less toggle bolts will hold the unit so that is an option too. As always give it the hang test when you are done. Hang from the mount, it it can support you it will support a screen. (of corse since you may be using toggle bolts apply a lot of pressure, not your full weight.)

Look in the yellow pages under "Home Theater" for a installer near you ($350 an up.........)

Disclaimer: Always mount at your own risk. I know I can make this work, but every situation requires thought and on board trouble shooting! When in dought contact a custom installer.

If you do not mind patching small holes, hammer a nail in every inch and sooner or later you will hit a stud. Then find another and you will be on your way. For TV's 42" and less toggle bolts will hold the unit so that is an option too. As always give it the hang test when you are done. Hang from the mount, it it can support you it will support a screen. (of corse since you may be using toggle bolts apply a lot of pressure, not your full weight.)

Look in the yellow pages under "Home Theater" for a installer near you ($350 an up.........)

Disclaimer: Always mount at your own risk. I know I can make this work, but every situation requires thought and on board trouble shooting! When in dought contact a custom installer.

Honestly, can toggle bolts hold my 42" plasma? If so, this seems to be my best option. This I can do on my own.

I wouldn't use toggle bolts through only sheet rock. You have studs wood or metal. They should be 16 or 24" apart. You can tell by your windows on how wide the ledges are.If they are under 5 1/2 they are 2x4 and would be 16 apart. 2x6= 24. Start by the nearest out let or door. There is a stud there find that then measure and use the thin nail trick by pounding it though. Easily patched. Metal studs you would use toogles wood you use lags. If you can patch sheet rock just cut it out and find or add what you need.

Ok gents. Its done. I found the studs. Metal Studs. And I used Toggler Hollow Wall Heavy duty bolts. It was easy.

My problem was pretty simple and stupid. I didnt know what a metal stud felt like. So I didnt realize when I went right through it. I expected it to feel like a wooden 2x4, which it doesnt.

Bolts:
http://www.toggler.com/products_hwh_installation.html

Anyway, I attached a picture of the finished product. Well amost finished.. I'll hide those wires later.

Thank you all very much. The forum comes through again.

To hide your wires (as opposed to going into the wall) get a raceway (Home Depot/Lowes will carry them) and paint it the same color as your wall. Almost invisible. ;)

Still can't believe how long this thread has continued. :)

This thread has continued because it has remained practical and useful. It contains the kind of nuts and bolts information (pun intended) that hangs all of us up (pun intended again) just when we're so close to finishing we can taste it. I decided to try to sum up the best of the best here and maybe get some definitive repsonses. I'd appreciate the expert feedback. I spent the better part of a day reading this entire thread and doing my own research and have a few questions, based on what I see to be the 5 potential ways of attacking this problem:

1. RUNNING THE POWER CORD THROUGH THE WALL
Is there ANY way to do this and be up to code? Because it's the easiest way. If I run the cord into a remodel box behind the plasma, then run the cord into the wall with armored cable covering it, then bring the cord back out through a remodeling box behind the console and plug the power cord into a PANAMAX 1000, is that good enough? I would assume that if the cord is not physically exposed to the inside of the wall, it shouldn't pose a fire hazard, right?

2. THE "DEHARRY METHOD" which I understand in principle, but still not sure of exactly how to execute:
"Installing a power receptacle behind the unit near the mount creates a problem with surge protection. Most surge protection units are too big and bulky to plug in this receptacle behing the Plasma. I solved this problem by running romex in the wall and installing a box and receptacle on both ends, one near the mount and the other end behind my equipt cabinet..
I have the surge protector attached to the wall, powered from a hot outlet, from which I have all units pl;ugged in. To power the outlet for the TV, near the mount, I have a short heavy extension cord, with plugs on both ends, one end plugged into the surge protector and the other into the lower outlet. This powers the upper outlet for the TV, with surge protection.
I had to be sure that the polorized pins, one large and one small, going into the surge protector outlet, matched the connections of the plug on the other of the extension cord going into the lower outlet. This is no problem if you use a few feet of heavy cord and two grounded plugs, making it yourself."

3. LEVITON HOSPITAL GRADE SURGE SUPRESSION RECEPTACLE
This seems to be the cheapest and most affordable solution out there, which begs the question, "Does it really work for a plasma?" Is this really all the protection you need for a plasma?

4. SURGE ARRESTER AT THE BREAKER BOX
This also seems like the simplest solution. Why fuss over expensive conditioners and surge protectors when you can arrest potential problems before they even get to your equipment? Is this enough protection as a stand alone solution?

5. MAX IN-WALL POWER
Panamax carries what appears to be 3 solutions:
the POWER — contains simply one retrofit AC box
the POWERKIT TL — contains a power cord and Romex
the POWERKIT MOB — contains a power cord only
Is the first merely a recessed box?
Do the KIT units offer surge protection? Or are they just a way to get your Power cord through the wall? I'm sure I could make the double gang work if I needed to, but $300 for a receptacle solution and then an additional $50-300 for a surge protector rack unit seems excessive.

As for myself, I just hung my CHIEF PWS articulating mount for my Panasonic 50PX6U (both purchased after reading great forum feedback!). And now I come to the dilemma this thread was founded on. Surge protection. My mount has two rectangular spaces in it for remodel boxes. Each space is roughly 2.25" x 3.25". It's great for a neat, finished look, but not so great if you want to do anything out of the ordinary, like install a Panamax double gang. Because it's an articulating mount, it sits about 3" off the wall, so I could go with a recessed or non-recessed plug set-up. I want no wires to show running down the wall, and I have an IKEA Bonde console below that will hold my HDD Recorder, Cable DVR, and Sound System. I also have an existing receptacle behind the console. It's attached to a lath and plaster wall, too. But that's a whole other adventure I'll detail when I'm done...
;)

Honestly, can toggle bolts hold my 42" plasma? If so, this seems to be my best option. This I can do on my own.
Yep, told you they would hold :)

I got my answers elsewhere and ended up going with none of the options this thread offered. In-wall power cords are not legal anywhere in the U.S. I'm going with a Tripp Lite outlet and romex, and a Tripp Lite surge protector. I'm also putting a suppressor on the breaker box. The Panamax stuff is overpriced and not terribly versatile.

I got my answers elsewhere and ended up going with none of the options this thread offered. In-wall power cords are not legal anywhere in the U.S.

Could have sworn I stated that in the very first post in this thread...but glad you got answers that were more to your liking.

So what exactly is the point of your post anyway? :confused:

Yes, you did say in your first post that it was against NEC. But subsequent posts have inferred that there are safe ways to run power cords in the wall, or that it's legal in some areas of the U.S. I spoke to a master electrician who told me it's not legal anywhere, it's not safe, and that there are better ways of running the power through the wall anyway.

Frankly, I'm tired of hearing how easy it is to install a plasma. If it was so easy, this thread wouldn't be 8 pages long. I'm a reasonably handy guy, and if you've got an ideal situation (interior wall with dual stud centered sheetrock sheath) and you're just hanging a standard mount with remodel box and a raceway for the powercord—then it's a piece of cake. Your first post is a great post for that. Drill four lags and have a beer.

But if you've got 1930s plaster lath, or metal studs, or a fireplace, or 100 year-old pine trim that will snap like a twig if you try to pop it, or a single stud center, or you need an articulating mount, or you don't want a fugly raceway running down from the display, or you want to actually surge protect your $5,000 investment, then mounting a plasma is not easy. And in that case, your first post is also not the most useful post in the world, with the happy exception being that it spawned so many other posts from people, whom like myself, find exceptions to the rule at nearly every turn. I'm not picking a fight. I have just seen the 1-2-3 plasma install posts all over the internet and because my site is so loaded with exceptions, I have little use for them, though I'm glad other folks are able to find them helpful.

My intent was to summarize what I thought were the best potential solutions to in-wall power that this thread has offered. My hope was to save someone a Saturday of sifting through the entire topic, like I did myself, and offer alternative avenues quickly. I had also hoped an expert might critique the solutions and offer best practices.

As I said, I found further information from a source I deem to be credible. This site is great for sheer volume and some great expert advice, but it's overwhelming to search through, and it's loaded with people who claim to be experts or who get so passionate about their own TVs and set-ups that you have to question their agendas. So I was lucky enough to talk to someone who has done this for a lot of years and who swears by the Tripp Lite stuff because he's installed them in sites that have actually been hit by lightning, and the equipment survived untouched. So they perform, they're cheap, and they suit my needs. If someone wants to know more, I'd be happy to elaborate, but I feel I've already taken too much space on this thread.

^^^^ 2-3 inches of solid wood for an 37" LCD would be fine. If you are worried about the screws going through add a 3/4 inch piece of plywood on that wall seeing it is a crawl space.

Been lurking for awhile, but had to comment on this. While this suggestion will certainly be plenty strong, the whole reason to use lag bolts is because you can't get at the other end of them. Since you can, it'd be more elegant and have zero chance of pulling out to just use standard hex bolts (the ones without the pointy ends) and screw nuts onto the far end.

This site is great for sheer volume and some great expert advice, but it's overwhelming to search through, and it's loaded with people who claim to be experts or who get so passionate about their own TVs and set-ups that you have to question their agendas.

It's overwhelming to search through because there are a lot of people looking for answers from some of the experts in the field...people, who unlike myself, do this for a living.

And there are a few of us, like me, who also happen to be passionate about their HT's...or whatever you may call it. I have no agenda what so ever, just relaying my experiences...as I have always done. Take it for what it's worth to you.

I have no comment concerning the rest of your post.

dougwx12,

I would probably, if there is room for your hand to get back there, mount a strip of metal behind that connecting the two bolts...or use oversized washers for further support.

But I don't know what I'm talking about anyway...I'm enthusiastic about my setup. :rolleyes:

PS my tripplite has been very good to me for the past few years.

I still say, for the vast majority of homes, which will have 16" OC studs covered in drywall, the installation (wether on an interior or exterior wall...exterior being more difficult) is not rocket science and certainly does not cost ~$300 to do yourself....fully compliant with all codes.

How you choose to do the installation is up to you.

Rich

Yes, you did say in your first post that it was against NEC. But subsequent posts have inferred that there are safe ways to run power cords in the wall, or that it's legal in some areas of the U.S. I spoke to a master electrician who told me it's not legal anywhere, it's not safe, and that there are better ways of running the power through the wall anyway.


Lots of "not to code" or "it's fine" in this thread, but no one has enumerated the hazards, so that folks can make an educated decision. From what I understand of the intent of the code, there are three safety issues that running an extension cord or the TV cord through the wall would expose you to, that I can think of:

- Wire gauge. If you run too much current through too small a wire, it heats up. Possibly to the point of melting and/or catching on fire. I don't know of many TV's that come with 14ga+ cords, nor are many extension cords made with that kind of wire (normal outlets are 15A, but every house varies; 15A=14ga, 20A=12ga). Plus the plugs have to have the correct amperage rating. And it doesn't matter how much power the TV is *supposed* to pull, something could always go wrong. The circuit breakers will pop before your properly sized romex heats up, but a current load that the breaker/romex can handle just fine might cause issues with a whimpy cord. And if it's inside the wall, you won't even smell the telltale burning plastic...

- Wire insulation. Scrape a piece of romex. Now try an extension cord. One doesn't even really notice if you drag it around a nail, one cuts like butter.

- Moisture. All sorts of rules with height, GFCI's, etc. that revolve around doing the right thing if your wires get wet inside and preventing that in the first place.

All of the above can be safely worked around, and the least common denominator for that safety is pretty much what's in the electrical code. That doesn't mean that it has to be to code to be safe. But if you don't have a big clue, judging when it's safe to depart from code is risky.

In many states the homeowner is not required to adhere to code for work they do themselves, though it may cause inspection issues when it comes time to sell the house.

Asking a real electrician this question will always get you the answer of, "Of course it's not safe." Anything less opens them up to liability. (Back to lowest common denominator again.)

For me, personally, when it comes to running a standard power cord behind a wall: For a given room/wall in my house, I can make an educated choice as to whether it's safe. But I can't make a blanket statement for my entire house, much less for everyone's house! And I'd be leery of anyone that said they could. And my religion - If it's behind a wall, and it's not rated for the maximum current load of the circuit (wire, plug, outlet, all of it), then you're nuts. And any exterior wall or something near the lowest concrete pad: also nuts. And running the cord without understanding the code or how our electricity works: nuts.

If I've forgotten any of the hazards this can cause, someone speak up...

I would probably, if there is room for your hand to get back there, mount a strip of metal behind that connecting the two bolts...or use oversized washers for further support.

Yes, I agree 100% on the washers. No reason not to put some nice oversize washers on both sides, as added pull-through protection.

Forgot to mention that, as I take for granted that's part of using hex bolts on wood (looks sheepish.)

And there are a few of us, like me, who also happen to be passionate about their HT's...or whatever you may call it. I have no agenda what so ever, just relaying my experiences...as I have always done. Take it for what it's worth to you.

I actually wasn't lumping you into the second group, for what it's worth. I've always found your posts to be typically informative and helpful. I'm sure you know the type of posters I'm talking about.

I'm planning on buying a plasma in the next several months and working on how I'll be mounting it. I am in an old apartment with plaster walls (no studs). I'm told the plaster is about 3/4" thick and goes up to (I forget whether it's the external brick or a block before the brick.) I had assumed I could attach a mount with a long screw that went all the way through the plaster to what's behind. My super advised me it's hard to attach things to brick precisely. I'd do better to attach wood to the brick and the plasma (or rather, mount) to the wood. Does that make sense to you guys? Any other suggestions? Thanks.

If you're renting, I'd scratch the idea of boring into plaster & brick as it's tricky and you may be liable for big damages. If you're an owner, then I'd still think twice about it as you may even damage your neighbor's adjoining wall. In either case if you decide to go through w/it, get a professional & choose well.

The other option, that's less expensive, but just as attractive is a nice A/V credenza and table mount. You'll probably be getting one anyway or something similar as you have to have SOME safe place to put all the A/V gear that comes w/Home Theater...or for that matter, just plain ole fashion TV & movie watching...ie. STB, DVD Player, VHS Player, AVR, DVR..

Okay, your caution is definitely making me nervous. But I'm not renting and this wall is an external wall - so I don't have those worries. The whole thing that started me on this plasma quest was the need to reduce furniture and free up space in my Manhattan apt. The current plan is to mount plasma and stack audio equipment in a corner between piano and wall.

I'll try to take and post a picture of the area. Thanks!

Added later: Oh, I'm not up to the task myself. I'll either have my super do it. (He has a background in structural engineering in Russia and is quite talented) or if it seems like it needs a profesional installer, I'll bite the bullet and pay for one.

Okay, here it is:

OK, I get the picture now...:D..so you might as well go the whole hog and use an articulating arm mount. This will give you maximum viewing flexibility. What size screen are you interested and how far away do you normally sit away from the display?

Salamander makes some nice upright A/V furniture that would fit in that corner area.

I've been thinking about an articulating mount. Mostly, I think I'll get a 50" because I can afford it, and it won't overwhelm the room. I sit just over 14' away - so an articulating arm would be great. That wall (not including the column) is 71" - so a 60" might look silly there (And would rule out someday getting on-wall speakers to clear more space. That's a whole other issue I'm working on figuring out. I won't do it if it means worse sound than I have now). If I did get a 60", I would just use a flat mount. There's the other issue of whether I can safely use an articulating mount with no studs. Any ideas? If I mount it to wood mounted to the brick will it be sufficiently strong?

The corner has its own problems. Probably there's no furniture that will fit there unless I have it made. I've been looking. I have only 18". The piano goes right up to the door on the other side so there's not much wiggle room. My biggerst component is 17". So as far as the corner, I'll either stack components on floor, have something built with very thin outside walls, or create a built in that goes into the column and gives me an extra 3.5" width.

It's not an easy room. Thanks for the help.

You're right, it's not an easy room. I have a small room as well (11 x 17), though your's seems even smaller. Looking at some of the things in your room already (big piano, big desk—nice by the way), that's a lot of "big" pieces in a very small room. In my opinion, a 50" will definitely compete with all the other big furniture in that room. Your viewing distance is good for a 50", but in the space you're showing us, that's going to be a honking size. Plus, keep in mind that even the slimmest articulating mounts will protrude 3-6" from the wall. Add that to the 4" depth of your plasma, and well, it's something to consider. Are you certain this is the only place you could put it? I've found more often than not, that the first place we usually choose to put the TV is not always the best or only place.

You have so many challenges here, I would consider not mounting your set to the wall. There are lots of very sleek, or even very cool antique-looking credenzas and in-furniture solutions out there, I would consider those before wall mounting.

I was seriously considering this company before deciding to wall mount, because I wanted to hide the TV when it wasn't in use... www.cabinet-tronix.com. But these are big pieces as well.

And I also looked at this more affordable one...
www.hookerfurniture.com/largeview.cfm?filename=articlephotos/large/metro_view_hideaway_500.jpg

But it looks like you need a slimmer solution. They're out there in abundance too, but they tend to be more modern-looking and will likely clash with your current decor.

Thanks for all the thoughts. Are you saying 50" seems too big for my space? :( I had my heart set on at least 50". Of course, that's partly from being on these forums for half a year. When I started, my 27" CRT seemed a little small for my space. By now, people have me convinced that at 14', I'd be crazy not to try for 60". :o Of course, many of those people don't live in Manhattan apartments. The room (living room, dining room, music room, kitchen) is about 16' x 10' (or 16' x 16' in area where kitchenette goes off living room). By the way, this is considered a large apt amongst my community of friends. Yikes!

I'm attaching pictures of all 4 walls. The first wall is the 16' long wall (entry door), the 2nd is the short side, and on in order. I can't figure out any other way to configure room - but if anybody else can, I'm happy for the help. The reason I want to mount is that this room desperately needs less furniture. Also, if I tuck audio components in to corner, they'll be pretty much invisible. Aesthetically, I should mount speakers on wall too. But it might be too much for me to handle the resulting loss in audio quality.

And back to mounting: Anybody know if in my situation, it's safe to use articulating mount?

Oh. Looks like it will only allow me to attach 3 pics. 4th is coming soon.

If this is bugging anybody because it's veering from how to mount into interior design, tell me - and I'll start a new thread.

And the 4th wall:

I have a question about mounting. Is it possible to mount a Plasma into the corner of the room? Our setup makes it so we have to do it that way, I want to put it in the very corner. Is this possible? One side of the mount would be on wall and the other side would be on the other.

Vashti, if it were me...and you did ask...I'd put the largest freak'in Plasma I could cram in that wall space....the upcoming Panasonic 1080p 65"er immediately comes to mind!

Forget about the teenie tiny TV stuff, and get yourself hooked up for a real HT experience. You're going to notice ANY size TV in a room like that, so why not make it an enjoyable one w/an AV Wall. Bigger IS better...especially at 1080p! Heck, when you're not watching the black beauty, you could put on a fish tank screen saver or something similar.

As for wall mount speakers, check into the Martin Logan Fresco line. They're designed and built just for what you're looking. We'll talk AV Amps, Tuners, etc. later.

Ok I will be buying a Samsung plasma S4253. Now I need an articulating wall mount. Im looking for a one of the cheapest ones. The TV is 42 inches so can you guys tell me if these are good.

http://www.imagewerkscomputers.com/item111.htm

http://www.imagewerkscomputers.com/item116.htm

Also if you have any reccomendations can you show me them. Thanks!!!

That piano's the 800 lb. gorilla in that room. 50" will look big on that wall, but at the viewing distance you're showing, I'd go with a 50" as well. An articulating mount will also allow you to view your display from the kitchen, which would be fun for cooking shows and the like.

You super can affix wood to your brick, but he's going to have to go through your plaster, and that's not easy. I called 3 installers at one point to get an idea of cost, and they all stopped me when I said the site wall was plaster lath. Two wouldn't touch the install, one would do it, but would not guarantee it. I'm sure there are pro installers out there who would do this, especially in NY where plaster is still common in the older buildings, but it might cost. I'm also not sure what the end product will look behind the plasma when you're done. If you only have 3/4" of plaster before hitting the outer wall, that's not leaving much to work with. You may have to live with a protrusion behind your mount. Also, you'll be asking two bricks to carry the entire downward load of the 90 lb. plasma. Someone else will have to tell you if that's a good idea or not. I reckon if they're holding up the building, it should work for a 90 lb. TV.

I would call some installers and describe your situation. I got a lot of useful information from the ones I called. After they turned me down, they felt bad and gave me some ideas.

Vashti, if it were me...and you did ask...I'd put the largest freak'in Plasma I could cram in that wall space....the upcoming Panasonic 1080p 65"er immediately comes to mind!

Forget about the teenie tiny TV stuff, and get yourself hooked up for a real HT experience. You're going to notice ANY size TV in a room like that, so why not make it an enjoyable one w/an AV Wall. Bigger IS better...especially at 1080p! Heck, when you're not watching the black beauty, you could put on a fish tank screen saver or something similar.

As for wall mount speakers, check into the Martin Logan Fresco line. They're designed and built just for what you're looking. We'll talk AV Amps, Tuners, etc. later.


Okay, cajieboy, I have to say I like the way you think! But there are a few problems with your approach. 1) It will take me the next several years to save enough for the 65" Pannie, (I'm a barely employed actor who's been saving for this for a long time.) while I can afford a 50" now. 2) A display that size wouldn't leave room for on-wall speakers. (It would only leave 3" on each side of panel. Now, THAT'S a tiny speaker!) and probably most importantly 3) my roommate, who owns this coop with me, wouldn't go for it. She likes the plasma idea because it's supposed to make the living room feel less cluttered. That said, I don't want to spend this much to get something that feels too small. On the other hand, 50" is nearly twice the size of what I'm coming from. You see my problem. I can go on with "on the other hand...." all day.




That piano's the 800 lb. gorilla in that room. 50" will look big on that wall, but at the viewing distance you're showing, I'd go with a 50" as well. An articulating mount will also allow you to view your display from the kitchen, which would be fun for cooking shows and the like.

You super can affix wood to your brick, but he's going to have to go through your plaster, and that's not easy. I called 3 installers at one point to get an idea of cost, and they all stopped me when I said the site wall was plaster lath. Two wouldn't touch the install, one would do it, but would not guarantee it. I'm sure there are pro installers out there who would do this, especially in NY where plaster is still common in the older buildings, but it might cost. I'm also not sure what the end product will look behind the plasma when you're done. If you only have 3/4" of plaster before hitting the outer wall, that's not leaving much to work with. You may have to live with a protrusion behind your mount. Also, you'll be asking two bricks to carry the entire downward load of the 90 lb. plasma. Someone else will have to tell you if that's a good idea or not. I reckon if they're holding up the building, it should work for a 90 lb. TV.

I would call some installers and describe your situation. I got a lot of useful information from the ones I called. After they turned me down, they felt bad and gave me some ideas.

Ain't that the truth about the piano! It's great for the spirit - terrible for the design.

I don't think we'd watch from the kitchen much. We would from the table - but it's probably too close.

I hate the idea of a giant protrusion. If I use wood and articulating mount, it could get pretty bulky - which defeats the purpose of the wall mount. Ugh! I'm going to find out what others in my building have done. I know there are lots of flat panels in here. How did you solve your problem?

Anybody else out there with plaster walls have any good ideas?

OK Vashti, on to HT Plan B...forget 1080p, and go the new 720p Pioneer 6070. The price of this excellent 60"er will be falling, and you'll be able to get a great deal. With its elegant sleek black bezel, the Pio 6070 even looks great when turned off! When turned on, you'll enjoy a WOW Factor X 10!

The main speaker for HT is the Center Channel Speaker, which can be placed directly under the display, and the placement for the front left & right as well as the rear L & R speakers can be wall mounted with some flexibility. But I think the Martin Logan's are out of range for your budget and maybe too big for your room space. BTW, what type of speakers are those on upper wall behind the sofa?

Also if you have any reccomendations can you show me them. Thanks!!!
That looks like a rebadged Omni Mount UCL CLICK HERE (http://www.omnimount.com/consumer/product.asp?p=128&mp=1.1.3.3.1). These usually need a universal adapter plate too. Now if you buy the nice Omni Mount UCL-X Platnium CLICK HERE (http://www.omnimount.com/consumer/product.asp?p=208&mp=1.1.4.2.2) it comes with the adapter plate, however it is a little more. (Look at the build quality though, a person gets what they pay for !)

OK Vashti, on to HT Plan B...forget 1080p, and go the new 720p Pioneer 6070. The price of this excellent 60"er will be falling, and you'll be able to get a great deal. With its elegant sleek black bezel, the Pio 6070 even looks great when turned off! When turned on, you'll enjoy a WOW Factor X 10!

The main speaker for HT is the Center Channel Speaker, which can be placed directly under the display, and the placement for the front left & right as well as the rear L & R speakers can be wall mounted with some flexibility. But I think the Martin Logan's are out of range for your budget and maybe too big for your room space. BTW, what type of speakers are those on upper wall behind the sofa?

Yep, I've been following the price of the 6070 with interest - also trying to figure out if it's crazy to do something that big. It only leaves 6" on each side of plasma for speaker - but what a big gorgeous screen.

I've been advised on the audio forum to try to taking my center out and using a phantom center - since I only have a few feet of separation - so that's my next try. The speakers on the back wall are signets, as are the front left and right speakers. I like them, but they're not made anymore. Which is too bad since I foolishly traded my signet center for a dt mythos center a while ago in a space saving measure. So much for timbre matching.