Samsung 2005 DLP HDTV Discussion --- HLRxxxxW Models

[knicksns28]

I know I'm getting a little off topic but I have a question. I want to use my television for basically 1) Video Games (Halo 2, which is very fast motion), 2) HDTV Broadcasting (off of satellite), and 3) action movies with a great sound system. First I was looking at the Samsung HL-R4667w, which has the HD4 chip. Then I heard that there is lag with this TV set. Then I decided to look at the HL-R4677w, which has the HD2+ chip. I really need help. What are the differences between the HD2+, HD3, HD4, and HD5. Which is the best? What set should I go with for alot of Halo 2 gaming and action movies? Should I wait for a newer model or something? Please help me. Thanks.

Thank you guys very much, I have already learned so much from all of your contributions.

[UCSB]

Okay so here is my problem , I want to watch something from my computer also on my HL-R4667, but want both the computer monitor and tv to be able to be displaying at the same time. Will this work. I want to do it this way so I dont have to use an s-video cable from cpu to tv anymore to watch stuff.

Right now I have the VGA cable going from cpu to desktop monitor(this is normal to use my computer for everyday use). My cpu also has a dvi slot. Can I run a dvi to vga cable from cpu to TV. J&R sells this cable. Or should I just get a dvi to vga adapter and get another vga to vga cable to run between the adapter and tv. Will both of these work. Please help.

How far is your computer from your HLR6767W? Are you using the HDMI input on the HLR4667W?

[scherer326]

yes, I am using HDMI for cable right now. Just want to know if I can use a DVI to VGA cable from the cpu to TV (HL-R4667) in order to watch stuff off of my computer. How will the picture look on my tv when doing this.

[UCSB]

yes, I am using HDMI for cable right now. Just want to know if I can use a DVI to VGA cable from the cpu to TV (HL-R4667) in order to watch stuff off of my computer. How will the picture look on my tv when doing this.

The length of the cable run is important for planning. But, to answer your question ... DVI is a digital signal, VGA is an analog signal. So there is NOT a cable that just has a DVI connector on one end and a VGA connector on the other end. The two formats are incompatible. But, if you are asking if a DVI to VGA converter (accepts digital signal and outputs VGA signal) is going to work. I don't know because I have never used one. It would be cheaper and more predictable (assuming your TV isn't more than about 10' from your computer) to simply replace the video card in your computer with one that has two VGA ports. What kind of monitor are you using? Are you sure you can't use the DVI connector to go to your computer monitor? Another great option, buy a nice LCD computer monitor that can use the DVI output on your computer and then use the other VGA port to go to your TV. One thing to understand is how much memory you have on your video card because you will have to have enough to support both your computer monitor and HDTV at the same time. Also, before you go any further check that your video card supports 1280x720. If it doesn't, then that will change how you approach this project.

[htwaits]

I am saying will a DVI to VGA cable work from my cpu to tv. Can my tv handle this
Which TV do you have?

I'm running DVI from my graphics card to the DVI input on a HLP5063. That's the best possible connection for computer input to a DLP TV. If your TV only has HDMI then do the same thing using a HDMI cable with a DVI connector on one end.

Using your TV as one of two monitors will work but switching back and forth can be complicated. I'm working on making it simple now.

You should be checking out this forum.


Home Theater Computers (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=26)

To get the best help you need to indicate which graphics card you have. It would also be helpful to include the amount of memory and which processor chip (CPU) in your computer.

Converting a digital signal to analog (component) will introduce errors.

[scherer326]

there is a VGA to DVI cable because I was at J&R today and saw it so it does exist. Was wondering if it will work. Also my computer monitor only has a VGA port which I am currently using right now and I dont really want to replace the video card in the cpu.

Also can DVI accept both analog and digital while HDMI is only digital. or am I wrong here.

My tv is the HL-R4667,

I have a new dell with 1gb ram memory

[UCSB]

there is a VGA to DVI cable because I was at J&R today and saw it so it does exist. Was wondering if it will work. Also my computer monitor only has a VGA port and I dont really want to replace this video card.

Yes. Those cables are adapters. I don't know how well they work. They are cheap enough that you could just give it a try.

[scherer326]

I was at J&R this afternoon they have both a DVI to VGA adapter and a DVI to VGA cable.

[UCSB]

I was at J&R this afternoon they have both a DVI to VGA adapter and a DVI to VGA cable.

I think the items that you saw are VGA to DVI adapters. I don't know if they will work in the other direction, ie. DVI to VGA. Even the ones that are cables have little adapters built into them. Go to the JR site, find the item and check the description. I think you will see they are all (both the little adapters and cables) adapters. That is why I am concerned about the direction of the data flow.

[scherer326]

will this work.

http://www.jr.com/JRProductPage.process?Product=3691621

[UCSB]

will this work.

http://www.jr.com/JRProductPage.process?Product=3691621

I don't know. You might need to call the manufacturer. Be sure to tell them how you want to connect it up and that it needs to support 1280x720. I have seen other similar parts from other manufacturers that have been labeled DVI to VGA adapters, I don't know how well they work either. Since most computer monitors are 1280x1024, they might.

[millerwill]

Question: From the Mits 1080p thread I have come to understand that the 73727 (the 73" set w/o an internal DVR) will not have a '1080p at 60 Hz VGA input'; only the 73827 and 73927, the sets with an internal DVR, will have it. The Sammy xx78's do have such an input, right? (At least that is what I make from pg 1 of this thread.) Is this a MAJOR advantage for the Sammy?

[schaffer970]

will this work.

http://www.jr.com/JRProductPage.process?Product=3691621

What you need to know is if your video card dvi out is both analog and digital (some are some aren't). I would suggest you read this White Paper from Sigma Designs (http://www.sigmadesigns.com/support/DVI_HDMI.htm) it will hopefully give you more of an idea of what you are looking for. If your video card dvi out has both digital and analog out then the conversion cable works just fine as it is simply taking the analog portion of the signal and making the proper connections within the vga connector.

[schaffer970]

Question: From the Mits 1080p thread I have come to understand that the 73727 (the 73" set w/o an internal DVR) will not have a '1080p at 60 Hz VGA input'; only the 73827 and 73927, the sets with an internal DVR, will have it. The Sammy xx78's do have such an input, right? (At least that is what I make from pg 1 of this thread.) Is this a MAJOR advantage for the Sammy?

Yes the Sammy's have 1080p 60Hz vga input. The preliminary manual for the 88 series talkes about being able to accept 1920x1080 60Hz.

[FlySaab]

will this work.

http://www.jr.com/JRProductPage.process?Product=3691621

The computer video card should have a DVI-I connector which can send Analog or Digital signals and is smart enough to output the correct one when plugged in. If it does, the cable will work. The end result depends on what resolutions and refresh rates your PC card is capable of. Blue Jeans Cable has a good article on the DVI-I, DVI-A, and DVI-D connectors:
http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/dvi/dvicabletypes.htm
http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/dvi/index.htm

[UCSB]

The computer video card should have a DVI-I connector which can send Analog or Digital signals and is smart enough to output the correct one when plugged in. If it does, the cable will work. The end result depends on what resolutions and refresh rates your PC card is capable of. Blue Jeans Cable has a good article on the DVI-I, DVI-A, and DVI-D connectors:
http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/dvi/dvicabletypes.htm
http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/dvi/index.htm

What you need to know is if your video card dvi out is both analog and digital (some are some aren't). I would suggest you read this White Paper from Sigma Designs (http://www.sigmadesigns.com/support/DVI_HDMI.htm) it will hopefully give you more of an idea of what you are looking for. If your video card dvi out has both digital and analog out then the conversion cable works just fine as it is simply taking the analog portion of the signal and making the proper connections within the vga connector.


Thanks ... for clarifying the DVI-A capabilities of the DVI-I connector on video cards. After using digital interfaces for so long, I had forgotten it was there. :o

[wtr1]

On a different thread on the AVS Forum, there was a poll on how many have bought a spare bulb. When I looked at it yesterday, there were only 10 that commented. 3 had purchased the bulb.

What do you folks think about purchasing a spare bulb?

Are they or will they be "commonly" available at stores like CC, BB, Tweeters, etc?

Some of the comments indicated that folks thought that the price would come down from $200.

Any thought or comments?

[aaronwt]

I am going to purchase a spare bulb. I would hate to sit down to watch TV and the bulb goes out. Then I would have have to wait several days to get one under warranty. This way I will have one available for an emergency.

[NorthJersey]

The length of the cable run is important for planning. But, to answer your question ... DVI is a digital signal, VGA is an analog signal. So there is NOT a cable that just has a DVI connector on one end and a VGA connector on the other end. The two formats are incompatible. But, if you are asking if a DVI to VGA converter (accepts digital signal and outputs VGA signal) is going to work. I don't know because I have never used one. It would be cheaper and more predictable (assuming your TV isn't more than about 10' from your computer) to simply replace the video card in your computer with one that has two VGA ports. What kind of monitor are you using? Are you sure you can't use the DVI connector to go to your computer monitor? Another great option, buy a nice LCD computer monitor that can use the DVI output on your computer and then use the other VGA port to go to your TV. One thing to understand is how much memory you have on your video card because you will have to have enough to support both your computer monitor and HDTV at the same time. Also, before you go any further check that your video card supports 1280x720. If it doesn't, then that will change how you approach this project.

a DVI-I (digital/analog) from PC to VGA on the tv will work just fine

[NorthJersey]

will the new 1080p pedestals 5688 and 5088 have an option to buy a shelf that attaches to the pedestal for a center speaker. I thought I read awhile ago that these shelves were optional for the pedastals. If so, can you buy these shelves at the same stores where the tv's are, or from Samsung directly ? Also, any one have links to pictures of the pedastals with the shelf attached, if there is such a thing ?

[UCSB]

will the new 1080p pedestals 5688 and 5088 have an option to buy a shelf that attaches to the pedestal for a center speaker. I thought I read awhile ago that these shelves were optional for the pedastals. If so, can you buy these shelves at the same stores where the tv's are, or from Samsung directly ? Also, any one have links to pictures of the pedastals with the shelf attached, if there is such a thing ?

Small clarification, the 5688 is a 1080p unit and the 5087 is a 720p unit. Samsung has offered a component stand that works with the pedestal models. Here is a link to the stand: CLICK HERE (http://product.samsung.com/cgi-bin/nabc/product/b2c_product_detail.jsp?eUser=&prod_id=TR85X%2fXAA). I know at least one AVS member posted pictures of the stand in their installation, but you might have to go through the HLPxx85W thread to find it. If it was my unit, I'd put together a custom/modified speaker stand to support the speaker above the TV. I'd match the concept to my left and right channels. If the TV is in front of a wall, a wall mounted speaker at the correct height is always a good option. This TV always seemed to be a good one to match up with high quality in-wall speakers.

[kregstrong]

anyone heard anything about the lag on the new samsung 6168, thats the only thing that might hold me back from buying it because i got to have no lag in my xbox games or xbox 360 games,

[TMSKILZ]

anyone heard anything about the lag on the new samsung 6168, thats the only thing that might hold me back from buying it because i got to have no lag in my xbox games or xbox 360 games,

Kreg I can answer this for you.

No LAG! I attended the HES here in NYC a couple months ago, went to the Samsung show Rm they had setup & had the chance to speak with Samsung's USA Rep Steve.P, he assured me that there wouldn't be any lag or other gaming issues with either of their 1080p models.

Samsung & MS also recently announced last month a partnership involving Xbox & Samsung TVs.

I myself own an XBOX system & plan to own an XBOX360 as well so this was very important to me.

[Aesculus]

I am going to purchase a spare bulb. I would hate to sit down to watch TV and the bulb goes out. Then I would have have to wait several days to get one under warranty. This way I will have one available for an emergency.
Other than having the bulb in your hands which would save a few hours of time or more depending on when it went out, I don't understand this logic. If you are buying a bulb for an emergency how does this effect getting one under warranty.

Doesn't the bulb also generally fade over time and just does not 'burn out' like a light bulb. In other words you can plan for the replacement weeks or months in advance. Also I don't think most warranties cover the bulb over 1 year?

[UCSB]

I have added FAQ#20 to POST #1. It is shown below and covers the topic that we have been discussing on VGA, DVI-I, and DVI-A conections and cabling from computers.

====================

20. What cables are required to connect your personal computer to the VGA/PC input on a Samsung HDTV?

Text by UCSB, Technical Solution supplied by Schaffer970 & FlySaab (AVS Members)
Samsung HDTVs have a VGA/PC input that can be used to connect a personal computer to the TV. This input is an analog input. The cable that you will require will need to have a VGA connector on the HDTV end. On the computer end of the cable you will have two options. The option that you select will depend on the type of output you want to use on your computer’s video card. Video cards have two types of outputs: VGA and DVI.

If you want to use the VGA output on your video card, then you will have to get a standard VGA to VGA monitor cable.

If you want to use a DVI connector on your video card then the situation is a little more complicated. You will need to determine if the DVI output on the video card is a DVI-I output with analog support. Here is an excellent description of how you can determine if you have a DVI-I (digital and analog support) or DVI-D (digital only) connector: CLICK HERE (http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/dvi/dvicabletypes.htm). If you have a DVI-I connector AND your video card supports analog output through the DVI-I connector, then you can use the DVI output to connect to the HDTV. In that case you will need a cable with a DVI-A connector on the computer end and a VGA connector on the HDTV end.

You should also check that your video card will support the resolution that you want to use (1280x720 for 720p, 1920x1080 for 1080p) and that you have enough memory on your video card to support your planned configuration.

For further information check this post: CLICK HERE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5792266&&#post5792266)

[ericlhyman]

Mike Aletto,

See http://www.hdtvmagazine.com/articles/2005/06/eds_view_keepin.php?page=3
and
http://www.hdtvmagazine.com/articles/2005/06/eds_view_keepin.php?page=2

[scherer326]

Is there any way to change the setting to make rainbows less visible on the HL-R4667. Was just wondering. Can I lower contrast, brightness, etc. to make it less visible. Does happen that often, but was just wondering if there was a little trick to make it work.

[hobbes382]

There seems to be a lot of focus lately about whether or not the new Samsungs will accept 1080p inputs. One of the main interests I have in these new models is the reported increase in contrast ratio. I have two questions here.

1. I've seen the contrast ratio specified at both 10,000:1, and 5000:1. Which is correct? It seems to me that 10,000:1 should be eye-poppingly more pleasing than the current Capt Kirk model (which is already one of the nicest pictures I've seen).

2. What is the maximum contrast ratio that DVD can achieve according to the DVD spec? I asked this question some months ago but never got a response.

Thanks in advance.

[AbMagFab]

When is the 71" 1080p going to be available!!! I want it now!!!

Argh..

[UCSB]

1. I've seen the contrast ratio specified at both 10,000:1, and 5000:1. Which is correct? It seems to me that 10,000:1 should be eye-poppingly more pleasing than the current Capt Kirk model (which is already one of the nicest pictures I've seen).Thanks in advance.

If you go to POST #1 in this thread, and click on the SPEC SHEET link at the top of either the 68 or 78 series sections, it will take you to Samsung's latest spec sheets. Samsung spec's both the 68 and 78 series contrast ratio as 'up to 10,000:1'.

You need to really stop and think for a minute about how they achieved that spec. The new 1080p models have a mechanical iris that can open and close as needed to optimize each scene. This is called dynamic black. I suspect that possibly the reason that the spec is so high is that they could take measurements with the iris closed (yielding absolute black) and wide open. It would give you a huge range. More important is how the TV's actually perform on real video material. We have had many reports from the CES and HES that have stated that the blacks are black and the contrast is excellent.

[UCSB]

When is the 71" 1080p going to be available!!! I want it now!!!

Argh..

Historically, the smaller screen sizes have been released a little before the largest screen sizes. With the smaller screen sizes scheduled for late July, I would not expect the 7178 until August or later.

[valkk]

I'm interested in the Samsung HLR4264 (http://www.samsung.ca/cgi-bin/nasecabc/en/b2c/product/product_detail.jsp?LoginFlag=NO&prod_id=HLR4264WX%2fXAC&prod_path=%2fConsumer+Products%2fTV,+Video+%26+Audio%2fTV%2f DLP+TV&selTab=Specifications) so I'm trying to get the most information for it as I can. I know there are better DLP's out there but it's either this or a 34" CRT I think, don't have the $$$ :p.

Anyway I noticed a few differences between the faq and Samsung's website (linked above). Unfortunately it says it is HD3 instead of HD4 and it does not have a VGA connector.

On that note I wonder if even a VGA connector is needed. Most videocards these days have DVI, which as far as I know is the same as HDMI just without the audio. You can purchase DVI to HDMI cables and I wonder how well would that work.

Also anyone know the lamp life and price for this particular Samsung DLP?

[NorthJersey]

Small clarification, the 5688 is a 1080p unit and the 5087 is a 720p unit. Samsung has offered a component stand that works with the pedestal models. Here is a link to the stand: CLICK HERE (http://product.samsung.com/cgi-bin/nabc/product/b2c_product_detail.jsp?eUser=&prod_id=TR85X%2fXAA). I know at least one AVS member posted pictures of the stand in their installation, but you might have to go through the HLPxx85W thread to find it. If it was my unit, I'd put together a custom/modified speaker stand to support the speaker above the TV. I'd match the concept to my left and right channels. If the TV is in front of a wall, a wall mounted speaker at the correct height is always a good option. This TV always seemed to be a good one to match up with high quality in-wall speakers.

thanks for the link. From the looks of it the stand goes at the bottom of the pedestal tv. I'm interested in the 5688 1080p set but was wondering where to put the center speaker. The stand does look kind of nice. Otherwise I'd do what you said and either mount the speaker on the wall above it (which I'd think would be too high, no?) or put a shelf up there to put it on

[Liquidous]

greetings.

i just picked up a hlr5076w.. connected it to my pc, dvi out to hdmi into the tv. it boots up. into windows, video is excellent, however i can not change my resolution at all. i have windows media center edition 2005..... was hoping someone was NOT going to tell me i have to use the pc vga input, because the hdmi input is working fine, but i just can not change the resolution on the pc to get better picture on the tv.

also - there is an odd effect on the tv.. in the middle portion of the screen, all pictures are excellent quality and excellent proportion, however as you get to the outside (sides, right and left) of the screen, it gets distorted, almost like the screen is a curvature.. for instance, if you see a head in the middle, it looks great, but if you see a head near the side of the screen, its fat, and stretched out... same with shoulder width, normal in the middle, but un natural and huge if its on the side.. almost as if the screen was convex.

any suggestions please let me know.
i did purchase warranty.

[MikeAlletto]

See http://www.hdtvmagazine.com/article...epin.php?page=3
and
http://www.hdtvmagazine.com/article...epin.php?page=2

Uhhh...ok. So? 2 articles talking about copy protection for HDTV. Doesn't say anything about HBO being able to tell you are connecting your cable box to your tv via component as opposed to HDMI. HBO is a content provider not a cable box manufacturer nor are they a content distributor.

[VA Ringer]

Liquidous, Are you in the panoramic view?

[UCSB]

I'm interested in the Samsung HLR4264 (http://www.samsung.ca/cgi-bin/nasecabc/en/b2c/product/product_detail.jsp?LoginFlag=NO&prod_id=HLR4264WX%2fXAC&prod_path=%2fConsumer+Products%2fTV,+Video+%26+Audio%2fTV%2f DLP+TV&selTab=Specifications) so I'm trying to get the most information for it as I can. I know there are better DLP's out there but it's either this or a 34" CRT I think, don't have the $$$ :p.

Anyway I noticed a few differences between the faq and Samsung's website (linked above). Unfortunately it says it is HD3 instead of HD4 and it does not have a VGA connector.

On that note I wonder if even a VGA connector is needed. Most videocards these days have DVI, which as far as I know is the same as HDMI just without the audio. You can purchase DVI to HDMI cables and I wonder how well would that work.

Also anyone know the lamp life and price for this particular Samsung DLP?

Valkk ... Thanks for bringing the HLR4264W specs to my attention. I will update POST #1 immediately. Plus I will be adding links to the Canadian web site.

I plan to:
1. Change chip to HD3.
2. Change contrast ratio to 2000:1
3. Remove VGA input.
4. Remove estimated from brightness, lamp and power consumptions specs
5. Reword intro alerting everyone that the internal components on the 64 series are different than the 67 series

It doesn't seem like they are sending the good stuff to Canada. :(

You are right, you can connect your computer to the TV via HDMI. But, with only one HDMI input you will be faced with some tough choices if you want to connect up your computer and other components. FORTUNATELY, the HLRxx64W also have a DVI input that can be used to directly connect your computer to the TV.

Sorry, I don't know what lamp they are using in the TV.

Thanks again for bringing the specs to my attention.

[UCSB]

I've updated the Canadian section it now reads:

Canada ONLY Models:

The following HLRxx64W models are Canadian ONLY models. They are based on the USA HLRxx67W series ... so you can look at the photos above in the HLRxx67W section (and in the HLRxx68W section) for an idea of what the cabinet looks like. In addition, the following 1080p units (specs same as USA versions described above) have been confirmed as being available in Canada. The status of the 56" and 67" 1080p models is currently unclear.

50" -- HLR5078W (August, $3999)
61" -- HLR6178W (August, $4799)
61" -- HLR6168W (August, $4799)
71" -- HLR7178W (August, $6999)

It is currently believed that the HLRxx88W and HLRxx77W product lines will not be offered in Canada.


TABLETOP MODELS >>> HLRxx64W --- 64 Series --- Floating Screen Design

Samsung's Canadian Web Site DLP Area (includes spec's and pictures): CLICK HERE (http://www.samsung.ca/cgi-bin/nasecabc/en/b2c/product/product_subtype.jsp?LoginFlag=NO&prod_path=%2fConsumer+Products%2fTV,+Video+%26+Audio%2fTV%2f DLP+TV)

42" -- HLR4264W (Released, $2499)
46" -- HLR4664W (Released, $2799)
50" -- HLR5064W (Released, $2999)
56" -- HLR 5664W (Unknown, $xxxx) The 56" is shown in the HLRxx64W manual, but we have not confirmed it's sale in Canada, yet.
61" -- HLR6164W (Released, $3799)
720p (1280x720) Resolution
Floating Screen Design, Anti-glare Matte Screen Finish
Cinema Smooth Generation 720P (Light Engine), DNIe (Video Enhancement)
Inputs: 1 HDMI, 1 DVI, 2 Component Video, 1 S-Video, 2 Composite, NO VGA/PC
Inputs: NO IEEE 1394 DTV Link
Digital Audio Out (optical)
ATSC Tuner / NTSC Tuner, NO Digital Cable Ready with CableCARD
NO TV Guide Electronic Program Guide
AnyNET (A Serial Connection Between Samsung Components That Allows Integrated Control Via Your Remote Control)
30 Watts, Internal Speakers
DLP Chip: (HD3 (.55" 720p) --- this is a 2004 TI DLP chip USA models use a 2005 HD4)
DLP Chip Operation: 640 x 720 mirrors, each mirror quickly moves to produces 2 pixels displayed on the screen yielding a 1280x720 final resolution; pixels are diamond shaped and slightly overlap, producing a smooth pixel free image
Contrast Ratio: 2000:1 (note this is lower than USA models)
Brightness (cd/m-sq): 61"=600, 56"=700 (may not be available), 50"=900, 46"=1000, 42" = 1000 (estimate)
Lamp (Standard/Dynamic Display Setting): 42", 46", 50", 56" (may not be available), 61"=(100W/120W) (estimate)
Color Wheel: 7 Segment
Power Consumption: 230 Watts (estimate)
NO Center Channel Shelf

You can turn DNIe ON and OFF, this is a feature that is not available on the 67 series, which requires DNIe to be on all of the time

[millerwill]

UCSB: I checked on pg 1 that the Technical Drawing for the 7178 is still 'not yet available'. Any further info? Do you think this portends a much later appearance for it?

[UCSB]

UCSB: I checked on pg 1 that the Technical Drawing for the 7178 is still 'not yet available'. Any further info? Do you think this portends a much later appearance for it?

I received the technical drawings from Kirk at TV Authority. You might PM him and see if the 7178 file is available yet. If it is, please let me know.

The larger models are often released a little after the smaller sizes, but it is usually just a matter of days (10 - 20). We haven't heard anything that would lead us to believe that it would be delayed. Perhaps you could ask Kirk about the 7178 also. TV Authority is trying to put together the 78 series PowerBuy and he must know all of the details.

[rsharma314]

thanks for the link. From the looks of it the stand goes at the bottom of the pedestal tv. I'm interested in the 5688 1080p set but was wondering where to put the center speaker. The stand does look kind of nice. Otherwise I'd do what you said and either mount the speaker on the wall above it (which I'd think would be too high, no?) or put a shelf up there to put it on

I have the same question. I like the stand that the 5688 comes with, however, my center channel is huge, and not sure where to put it. I was thinking of making something out of wood with the height of the TV on the back, but thats an archiac way of doing this. Any other ideas anyone?

[scherer326]

my horizontal (when watching a movie or show that is sometimes in widecreen mode) and verticals lines (when watching something in 4:3) are not straight. Is there any way to adjust these to make them straighter. I am a tv freak and want everything close to perfect. I have the HL-R4667

[schaffer970]

Manual for the HL-R7178 is up on the Samsung site. Here is the link to the manual (http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/UM/200506/20050621103649296_BP68-00513A-00Eng.pdf). Looking very quickly I don't see anything that we didn't expect.

[UCSB]

Manual for the HL-R7178 is up on the Samsung site. Here is the link to the manual (http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/UM/200506/20050621103649296_BP68-00513A-00Eng.pdf). Looking very quickly I don't see anything that we didn't expect.

Thanks!!! I've added the HLRxx78W series OWNERS MANUAL to the 78 series section in POST #1. It covers all 78 series models: 50", 56", 61", and 71". It has some interesting viewing distance recommendations on page 10. :)

[jwv651]

Thanks!!! I've added the HLRxx78W series OWNERS MANUAL to the 78 series section in POST #1. It covers all 78 series models: 50", 56", 61", and 71". It has some interesting viewing distance recommendations on page 10. :)Were is the manual for the 68 series, is the 78 series coming before the 68... :confused:

[UCSB]

Where is the manual for the 68 series, is the 78 series coming before the 68... :confused:

I'm sure it will show up soon. It is a safe bet to assume that it will be virtually identical to the 78 series manual. I think that with the SPEC SHEETS and OWNERS MANUAL we have a pretty complete picture of the new 68 /78 series.

[schaffer970]

Based on what I have seen before, we are likely to see all the manuals for the 1080p sets over the next few days. I also expect to see FCC approval sometime next week. There is a flash manual for the HLR5688 located here. (http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/MM/200212/um_hlr5688w_start_eng_051220.htm)

[UCSB]

Based on what I have seen before, we are likely to see all the manuals for the 1080p sets over the next few days. I also expect to see FCC approval sometime next week. There is a flash manual for the HLR5688 located here. (http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/MM/200212/um_hlr5688w_start_eng_051220.htm)

Thanks!!! I've added a link to the online HLR5688W OWNERS MANUAL to the 88 series section in POST #1.

[schaffer970]

UCSB, I guess I need to find everything before I post so you don't have to keep making changes. Here is the link to the HLR5688 manual in PDF form: http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/MM/200212/um_hlr5688w_manual_eng_051220.pdf There is a link at the bottom of the flash manual.

[RJGinCA]

I have the same question. I like the stand that the 5688 comes with, however, my center channel is huge, and not sure where to put it. I was thinking of making something out of wood with the height of the TV on the back, but thats an archiac way of doing this. Any other ideas anyone?

Actually, Magnolia HiFi sells an angled wooden platform that fits over the top of most rear-projection and CRT televisions to support a center channel. Of course, it's a level shelf on top that has angled brackets underneath, sloping downward to fit the slope of most DLP's. I remember seeing this when I was in the Magnolia HiFi in Palo Alto a few weeks ago, and thought it was a pretty cool fix to a common problem. Maybe less archaic if you can just go down there and buy it??

I have the 5688 on pre-order with TVA, and was thinking of getting that shelf support myself, as the Samsung stand available for the pedestal models still do not support a center speaker (unless you place it left or right of center). So I called Magnolia and the rep told me that the wooden shelf support does not work for any Samsung DLP as the slope downwards is too severe. However, he also said that if you add a wooden block with some velcro to the shelf support brackets, it will solve the problem. Many of his customers have purchased the shelf, modified it a tad, with very good results.

I know I can't quote price, but the shelf is so reasonable in price it seems like it's worth a try if there are no other options available. I mean it's cheaper than a pair of 1m cables. I'm a renter, so I hesitate to drill a shelf into the wall above the television. Let me know if you come up with another idea or solution. I'd be very interested.

[UCSB]

UCSB, I guess I need to find everything before I post so you don't have to keep making changes. Here is the link to the HLR5688 manual in PDF form: http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/MM/200212/um_hlr5688w_manual_eng_051220.pdf There is a link at the bottom of the flash manual.

I don't mind making changes ... especially, when we are putting some of these critical pieces into place. Thanks for finding these manuals!!! I've updated POST #1 to include the HLR5688W manual. :)

:cool: Your custom stand really looks nice!

[schaffer970]

UCSB, thanks for the kind words about the stand. It was fun to make and I'm very happy with how it turned out (as well as the wife). For anyone contemplating doing your own stand, there is a build your own thread thats got lots of good information in it. If you can't find a stand you like, I really recommend that you look into making one or finding someone who can build one for you. Price is comparable or less, so that's not really a concern. :)

[GDTRFB42]

GDTRFB42, this question has been asked several times and the answer based on actual experience seems to be that they can be put on their back/front. I'm sure that on the box it says "this side up", but short distances on front/back doesn't seem to harm the sets.

Thanks Schaf, I picked up the tv Friday and layed it down screen side up for the transport home of 15 miles. Out of the box the set is amazing. All 'black bars' are straight as an arrow. I also have no lip sinc issues that have been reported by others.

F.Y.I I am running video from DVD player (sony progressive scan) to tv via component and sound from DVD player to Onkyo receiver via digital audio out. I have yet to test PC and Xbox and will post results when I do.

Thanks again to everyone on this forum.

[Ronnie 1.8]

I just ordered my Salamander stand (model 236) last night from Magnolia San Ramon. $1,225 plus tax. I spent many many hours researching stands, including all the suggestions received in this forum, and found none that are reasonably priced AND functional AND look good as an attractive piece of furniture. Of course, all of these elements are relative to the individual. I spent $300-$400 more than I wanted, but I have a nice stand - a shelf for my center channel, four 18" wide shelves for components (with room to stack a component on each shelf if necessary), and a media drawer beneath the center channel. The stand is 66" wide (the 6168 is 57" wide) and 20" tall. I chose all black, but had choices of cherry, walnut and maple, too. Perfect!! :) :)

[schaffer970]

Ronnie 1.8, congrats on the stand purchase. The Salamander is really nice looking. Should go great with your 6168. :)

[Rolando A]

Hi guys,

I will confessed that after keeping up with the Sony releases thread daily I did not have the guts to go through this entire thread. Sorry. But I did read enough to hear that us Canucks are getting gipped with CANADA ONLY DLPs that are not up to par.

Am I missing anything? Has this been confirmed 100%? I already see on local websites that they advertise the HLR4264 but no 4267. What gives?

Why would Canadian get the old HD3 chip and not the improved HD4 chip? None of the other features are must haves to me, heck having DVI and HDMI is actually really cool but the old chipset is a killer.

Was almost hoping to get talked out waiting for the Sony 42A10

[UCSB]

Hi guys,

I will confessed that after keeping up with the Sony releases thread daily I did not have the guts to go through this entire thread. Sorry. But I did read enough to hear that us Canucks are getting gipped with CANADA ONLY DLPs that are not up to par.

Am I missing anything? Has this been confirmed 100%? I already see on local websites that they advertise the HLR4264 but no 4267. What gives?

Why would Canadian get the old HD3 chip and not the improved HD4 chip? None of the other features are must haves to me, heck having DVI and HDMI is actually really cool but the old chipset is a killer.

Was almost hoping to get talked out waiting for the Sony 42A10

Canadians should get the regular 1080p models. It is just the 720p HLRxx64W models that seem to be not quite up to their USA counterpart, the HLRxx67W. The HD3 data and 2000:1 contrast ratio were taken from Samsung's Canadian web site ... it is the best data we currently have, but there have been errors on the Samsung site before.

The Canadian section in POST #1 is still developing. It is meant to be helpful, but may not be the last word on what is available in Canada. The USA section in POST #1 at this point in time should be viewed as 100% reliable.

Your best bet in Canada is the 1080p models (HLRxx68W, HLRxx78W). They should be awesome.

This thread is a lot to read, but POST #1 (the first post in the thread) has all of the latest information.

[Rolando A]

Actually I did read the whole 1st post, thanks UCSB. Your input has definately been useful. It's a shame that is the case for the Canadian counterparts...

I tell you what, If I can I will go to a store that has one and see if I can confirm the Canadian specs.

thanks again.

[andybm]

Now I'm really confused.

What's the difference between the HLR 4664 and the HLP4663?

Why is Samsung denying us Canadian's state of the art viewing? What's a Canuck to do????

Morpheus, UCSB any thoughts?

[Joe_Blow]

Assuming I'm as happy with the picture as I expect to be, I'm hoping to pop one of these 5668s into a built-in cab custom made for the unit. However, I'm a bit unsure about ventilation requirements.

The manual states that the unit should be placed more than 4 inches from the rear wall. I plan to plug the box into a square cabinet that allows 3/4 of an inch on left/right/top, and a wee bit more than 4 inches clearance from the wall in back. Will the 3/4 of an inch clearance alotted on the sides & top generally be enough for ventiliation (assuming more than 4 inch clearance in the rear)? If not, are there fans made that are quiet enough and efficient enough to do the trick?

Thanks in advance for any/all advice... and thanks a MILLION for this extremely informative site and thread!!!

[gazelle]

Assuming I'm as happy with the picture as I expect to be, I'm hoping to pop one of these 5668s into a built-in cab custom made for the unit. However, I'm a bit unsure about ventilation requirements.

The manual states that the unit should be placed more than 4 inches from the rear wall. I plan to plug the box into a square cabinet that allows 3/4 of an inch on left/right/top, and a wee bit more than 4 inches clearance from the wall in back. Will the 3/4 of an inch clearance alotted on the sides & top generally be enough for ventiliation (assuming more than 4 inch clearance in the rear)? If not, are there fans made that are quiet enough and efficient enough to do the trick?

Thanks in advance for any/all advice... and thanks a MILLION for this extremely informative site and thread!!!

DLP's are not designed to be used in limited-ventilation enclosures. Electronic circuit boards are very susceptible to heat and DLP's with spinning color wheels generate excess heat which has to be dissipated. It does little good to have 4" of space in the rear if the area will be so confined at the top, bottom and sides.
The heat will just build up in the contained space faster than it can dissipate.
You're asking for trouble and a DLP's lifespan and performance will be greatly reduced in this scenario. Ideally, a DLP should not be "enclosed", but you can more reasonably do this if you have a backless enclosure built or an enclosure with a fan or ventilation system built into the rear panel, JMHA

[linelock]

I've updated the Canadian section it now reads:

[...
Inputs: 1 HDMI, 1 DVI, 2 Component Video, 1 S-Video, 2 Composite, NO VGA/PC


Hi, I purchased a hlr4264w a couple of weeks ago and I can confirm that it does have a vga input.

[Joe_Blow]

DLP's are not designed to be used in limited-ventilation enclosures. Electronic circuit boards are very susceptible to heat and DLP's with spinning color wheels generate excess heat which has to be dissipated. It does little good to have 4" of space in the rear if the area will be so confined at the top, bottom and sides.
The heat will just build up in the contained space faster than it can dissipate.
You're asking for trouble and a DLP's lifespan and performance will be greatly reduced in this scenario. Ideally, a DLP should not be "enclosed", but you can more reasonably do this if you have a backless enclosure built or an enclosure with a fan or ventilation system built into the rear panel, JMHA

Ya, I was pretty much expecting that... especially with a wheel turning at over 10k rpm.

So, are there really fans made that are efficient enough to handle the job while quiet enough "not" to be a nuissance? Also, I suspect an LCOS set like the expected SXRDs would produce much less heat. Would it be enough of a difference to negate the need for a fan?

I was kind of hoping to figure out a design without getting a professional involved... hate to put my "trust" into a "pro." Looks like I might have no choice if I truly want to enclose and do so wisely.

By the way, thanks for the reply!

[UCSB]

Hi, I purchased a hlr4264w a couple of weeks ago and I can confirm that it does have a vga input.

Thanks, I've updated POST #1.

[UCSB]

Now I'm really confused.

What's the difference between the HLR 4664 and the HLP4663?

Why is Samsung denying us Canadian's state of the art viewing? What's a Canuck to do????

Morpheus, UCSB any thoughts?

HLPxxxxW models were 2004 models (May 2004 - May 2005). The HLP4663W is a USA model. HLRxx64W are 2005 models. But, they seem to be unique to Canada. The main differences are: 1) contrast ratio (2000:1, R; 1500:1, P); 2)styling.

I just hope that Samsung Canada didn't make some errors on their web site with the HLRxx64W specs. I would have expected the internals to be similar to the HLRxx67W in the USA (HD4, 2500:1 contrast ratio), but I'm not going to second guess their own specs.

If you want state of the art, just go with a HLRxx68W or HLRxx78W. These 1080p models will be offered in both Canada and the US and will be the best Samsungs offered this year.

[UCSB]

Assuming I'm as happy with the picture as I expect to be, I'm hoping to pop one of these 5668s into a built-in cab custom made for the unit. However, I'm a bit unsure about ventilation requirements.

The manual states that the unit should be placed more than 4 inches from the rear wall. I plan to plug the box into a square cabinet that allows 3/4 of an inch on left/right/top, and a wee bit more than 4 inches clearance from the wall in back. Will the 3/4 of an inch clearance alotted on the sides & top generally be enough for ventiliation (assuming more than 4 inch clearance in the rear)? If not, are there fans made that are quiet enough and efficient enough to do the trick?

Thanks in advance for any/all advice... and thanks a MILLION for this extremely informative site and thread!!!

Here is a photo of my current setup.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=32221


I have 1" clearance on top, 1.25" on each side, 2" in back. Heat has not been a problem at all. Because the DLP's slope inward and the back slopes down, there is more space around the TV than the front clearance would suggest. The air does not heat up in the enclosed space. It must just come out of the TV rise and exit the cabinet space. You can put your hand up on the top of the set and the ventilation areas and there is nothing unusual going on.

I would look at the airflow route in the new 5668. Where does the air enter and exit? We will have to see if any of the air is brought in from the front of the set.

Anyway, I don't know about .75", but certainly 1" has worked flawlessly for me for just under 2 years.

[schaffer970]

Ya, I was pretty much expecting that... especially with a wheel turning at over 10k rpm.

So, are there really fans made that are efficient enough to handle the job while quiet enough "not" to be a nuissance? Also, I suspect an LCOS set like the expected SXRDs would produce much less heat. Would it be enough of a difference to negate the need for a fan?

I was kind of hoping to figure out a design without getting a professional involved... hate to put my "trust" into a "pro." Looks like I might have no choice if I truly want to enclose and do so wisely.

By the way, thanks for the reply!

The color wheel generates very little heat. All (DLP, SXRD, LCOS) rear projection sets generate heat because of the light bulb in them. The light bulb generates virtually all of the heat that must be dissipated. I am not completely sure about the air flow pattern through the set (I'm not sure if the set pulls fresh air in from the front), but I know that the exhaust area is on the back and is not large (looking at pictures I think it is probably less that 4"x4", but lets be generous and say it is 6"x6"). If we say it is the 6"x6" then the exhaust port is 36 square inches. The 3/4 of an inch around your set roughly equates to 96 square inches or over 2.5 times the area that the exhaust is using to get out of the set (and probably more like 6 times using the 4"x4" area). Based on this I see no real problem with what you are talking about. The reason manufactures want the space from the rear wall is to make sure that you don't obstruct the air flow out of the set. Others on this forum have a great deal of real life experience with this issue and I have not heard anyone having problems with the type of setup you are talking about.

gazelle, if you have some basis in fact for what you are saying I would like to hear about it.

UCSB, do you know where the air intake is on the sets? Is it on the front?

[wp746911]

had a few beers so excuse me if I'm ignorant;)

What is the best (in your opinion) dvd upscaling dvd player for my new hlr-5067w sammy;)

I've got "progressive scan" dvd player and honestly after watching hdtv on the tv, dvds just don't seem that good...No lipsynch issues or any real problems but just doesn't seem that impressive anymore

I figure I need a hdmi output to match my tv... any consensus on a good upscaler (priced less than $300 please:)

thanks!

[UCSB]

UCSB, do you know where the air intake is on the sets? Is it on the front?

I'm not sure where the air intake is on the HLRxx68W's. But, I think we should remember that the HLR5668W has a 100W/120W bulb. Doesn't seem like much, given the HDTV size, fan, and air volume in cabinet.

I think your general analyis of TV vent area vs. ventilation area around the TV is right on based on my configuration.

[wp746911]

oh also while I'm drinking (shiner bock)

what is the best tuner dvd for this tv. I've been to cnet and seen their tuner recommendations but ended up confused b/c they say such nice things about every version so I'm left with no clear winner. I'm completely new to the hdtv scene but easily accept a steep learning curve so long as it is doable!

[UCSB]

had a few beers so excuse me if I'm ignorant;)

What is the best (in your opinion) dvd upscaling dvd player for my new hlr-5067w sammy;)

I've got "progressive scan" dvd player and honestly after watching hdtv on the tv, dvds just don't seem that good...No lipsynch issues or any real problems but just doesn't seem that impressive anymore

I figure I need a hdmi output to match my tv... any consensus on a good upscaler (priced less than $300 please:)

thanks!

Some HLRxx67W owners have reported good results with Samsung DVD-HD950, which is availabe for less than it's $199 list. Also, the OPPO is very popular on AVS. As is the Panasonic DVd-S97. Here is a link to a review of many of the top models: CLICK HERE (http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-bin/shootout.cgi?function=search&articles=122). I'm a big believer in upscaling DVD players.

[UCSB]

oh also while I'm drinking (shiner bock)

what is the best tuner dvd for this tv. I've been to cnet and seen their tuner recommendations but ended up confused b/c they say such nice things about every version so I'm left with no clear winner. I'm completely new to the hdtv scene but easily accept a steep learning curve so long as it is doable!

The two most popular are: Avia and Digital Video Essentials. There are some threads on the merits of each. I have both. They aren't expensive.

[gazelle]

gazelle, if you have some basis in fact for what you are saying I would like to hear about it.

I have no empirical evidence, just discussions and opinions of electronics technicians who repair these sets. And, of course, common sense. Why go out of your way to create problems? Everyone has heard of or seen a VCR, DVD Player, Receiver, etc. Fried from lack of ventilation in an enclosure. Why on earth would you suggest to someone any kind of RPTV, most especially a DLP, could safely be placed in such an enclosure? I certainly wouldn't and i don't think many would find it wise.
If you want to chance it yourself, as an experiment, go ahead, but to tell someone else they would have "no problem" is quite irresponsible IMHO....

[gazelle]

Here is a photo of my current setup.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=32221


I have 1" clearance on top, 1.25" on each side,

Anyway, I don't know about .75", but certainly 1" has worked flawlessly for me for just under 2 years.


There is a BIG difference in ventilation between 1 1/4" on two sides and 1" on top and 3/4 of an inch all around.

[UCSB]

Here is a photo of my current setup.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=32221


I have 1" clearance on top, 1.25" on each side, 2" in back. Heat has not been a problem at all. Because the DLP's slope inward and the back slopes down, there is more space around the TV than the front clearance would suggest. The air does not heat up in the enclosed space. It must just come out of the TV rise and exit the cabinet space. You can put your hand up on the top of the set and the ventilation areas and there is nothing unusual going on.

I would look at the airflow route in the new 5668. Where does the air enter and exit? We will have to see if any of the air is brought in from the front of the set.

Anyway, I don't know about .75", but certainly 1" has worked flawlessly for me for just under 2 years.

Also, I wonder if the floating screen will improve air flow. Remember there is .75" of open space under much of the screen. Now I'm curious, tomorrow I'm going to get out my digital thermometer (also known as my bbq fork ;) ) and take a few readings.

Right now I'm hoping to put a HLR5668W into the same spot so I am definitely going to become an expert on heat and clearances.

[jjs123]

I have the Motorola DCT6412 cable box....I see a DVI but no HDMI connection on the back.

From the page1 specs of the HLR6168W, I do not see DVI mentioned.....what type of connection would I use from the cable box to the TV ??

thanks.

[schaffer970]

jjs123, you need a DVI to HDMI adapter. You can get a cable that has HDMI on one end and DVI on the other or you can get a HDMI cable and a DVI to HDMI adapter. HDMI is a superset of DVI with the primary difference being that HDMI also includes wires for sound information.

[Q of BanditZ]

The two most popular are: Avia and Digital Video Essentials. There are some threads on the merits of each. I have both. They aren't expensive.

I'd recommend Avia for CRT based displays and DVE for pretty much everything else.

[Daphoid]

I just took some measurements.. I'm going to have about 1" on either side of the TV and about 4" at the top, is this enough for ventilation? As for the depth, the TV will have about 17" behind it, is this enough space for the air to move around?

Now as for the PC -> DLP Issues

1. You use a VGA - VGA cable from your video card to TV, if longer then 10' I'd suggest a nice dual sheilded cable from AVCable.com, I was recommended cable and plan to use it for my setup.
2. You can certainly connect your PC's monitor to the DVI port on your video card, just pickup a simple DVI->VGA adapter, we use them at my work all the time, this free's up the VGA port for your TV.
3. You can use DVI->HDMI this will work fine
4. For the really long distances and uber paranoid you can use two VGA -> BNC breakout cables, and a length of BNC cable :).

- D

[Aesculus]

I too will be having ventilation issues. My set will have 2 inch clearance on each side and 0 inches at the top. I think the top is the critical one as heat rises and I do think it can pull cooler air in from below.

So to advert any problems I plan to install a temp controlled fan similar to this:
http://www.activethermal.com/default.htm

In my case I will be venting into an ajacent speaker enclosure to push heated air (when activated by the temp sensor) out through the front of the speaker grill. If that does not work I will have to cut some openings in the speaker cabinet to the wall space and vent to the attic.

[SammiK]

I have no empirical evidence, just discussions and opinions of electronics technicians who repair these sets. And, of course, common sense. Why go out of your way to create problems? Everyone has heard of or seen a VCR, DVD Player, Receiver, etc. Fried from lack of ventilation in an enclosure. Why on earth would you suggest to someone any kind of RPTV, most especially a DLP, could safely be placed in such an enclosure? I certainly wouldn't and i don't think many would find it wise.
If you want to chance it yourself, as an experiment, go ahead, but to tell someone else they would have "no problem" is quite irresponsible IMHO....


I agree. No one should recommend this tight an enclosure for these sets, it's like playing Russian Roulette with a few thousand dollars. I concur with you and i've seen a lot RPTV's in need of repair or replacement due to owners carelessly placing them in cabinets or enclosures. If you must do this, certainly spend a few dollars to protect your investment by installing a ventilation system or fan(s).

[SammiK]

I too will be having ventilation issues. My set will have 2 inch clearance on each side and 0 inches at the top. I think the top is the critical one as heat rises and I do think it can pull cooler air in from below.

So to advert any problems I plan to install a temp controlled fan similar to this:
http://www.activethermal.com/default.htm

In my case I will be venting into an ajacent speaker enclosure to push heated air (when activated by the temp sensor) out through the front of the speaker grill. If that does not work I will have to cut some openings in the speaker cabinet to the wall space and vent to the attic.


Very wise solution and i would recommend this or something similar to even people with more space in an enclosure. Better safe than sorry. Don't try to save pennies and burn dollars.

[Ronnie 1.8]

I’d like to get some feedback on a specific element of my near-future theatre. The subject is HDMI. My installer feels good calibrated component connections are still the preferred connection by the best installers, including himself. He says there is a ‘digital handshake’ that must occur with HDMI that so far has been problematic, and that there is already discussion of replacing HDMI with yet another connector. Obviously I want the best possible picture, whatever that connection is done with. I’ve not heard of these problems with HDMI, and would believe that with the Denon DVD player and receiver he has chosen for my system, and with the 6168, this handshake shouldn’t be a problem. If I went component with the Comcast digital STB and DVD player, I feel like I’m leaving some picture quality on the table. But this installer has a column with Widescreen Review (and another HT mag), has performed literally hundreds of installations, many in the six figure range, and has just about every certification available in the home theater segment. If anyone knows, he does, so you can see why I’m confused here. I do plan on getting specifics from him. Thanks for your thoughts.

[SammiK]

I’d like to get some feedback on a disagreement I have with the installer of my near-future theatre. The disagreement is on the subject of HDMI. He feels good calibrated component connections are still the preferred connection by the best installers, including himself. He says there is a ‘digital handshake’ that must occur with HDMI that so far has been problematic, and that there is already discussion of replacing HDMI with yet another connector. Obviously I want the best possible picture, whatever that connection is done with. I’ve not heard of these problems with HDMI, and would believe that with the Denon DVD player and receiver he has chosen for my system, and with the 6168, this handshake shouldn’t be a problem. If I went component with the Comcast digital STB and DVD player, I feel like I’m leaving some picture quality on the table. But this installer has a column with Widescreen Review (and another HT mag), has performed literally hundreds of installations, many in the six figure range, and has just about every certification available in the home theater segment. If anyone knows, he does, so you can see why I’m confused here. I do plan on getting specifics from him. Thanks for your thoughts.

Your installer is absolutely correct with everything he is telling you, but it can't hurt to try HDMI to see if it works for you. So much about digital connections is highly problematic and equipment specific that trial and error is still the best tack to take.

[AtlPaul]

I’d like to get some feedback on a disagreement I have with the installer of my near-future theatre. The disagreement is on the subject of HDMI. He feels good calibrated component connections are still the preferred connection by the best installers, including himself. He says there is a ‘digital handshake’ that must occur with HDMI that so far has been problematic, and that there is already discussion of replacing HDMI with yet another connector. Obviously I want the best possible picture, whatever that connection is done with. I’ve not heard of these problems with HDMI, and would believe that with the Denon DVD player and receiver he has chosen for my system, and with the 6168, this handshake shouldn’t be a problem. If I went component with the Comcast digital STB and DVD player, I feel like I’m leaving some picture quality on the table. But this installer has a column with Widescreen Review (and another HT mag), has performed literally hundreds of installations, many in the six figure range, and has just about every certification available in the home theater segment. If anyone knows, he does, so you can see why I’m confused here. I do plan on getting specifics from him. Thanks for your thoughts.
Suggestion: Your question may get more attention by posting under a separate thread. ;)

[htwaits]

I’d like to get some feedback on a disagreement I have with the installer of my near-future theatre.

I would contact SethS for a second opinion. He trains calibrators and consults for Samsung. I wouldn't think of component inputs as the best option for a Samsung DLP.

You could also ask the calibrators who have been working on Samsungs in this thread.

Just got my Samsung DLP calibrated! (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=542709&page=1&pp=30)

[Ronnie 1.8]

I would contact SethS for a second opinion. He trains calibrators and consults for Samsung. Thanks. I just emailed him.

[UCSB]

I’d like to get some feedback on a disagreement I have with the installer of my near-future theatre. The disagreement is on the subject of HDMI. He feels good calibrated component connections are still the preferred connection by the best installers, including himself. He says there is a ‘digital handshake’ that must occur with HDMI that so far has been problematic, and that there is already discussion of replacing HDMI with yet another connector. Obviously I want the best possible picture, whatever that connection is done with. I’ve not heard of these problems with HDMI, and would believe that with the Denon DVD player and receiver he has chosen for my system, and with the 6168, this handshake shouldn’t be a problem. If I went component with the Comcast digital STB and DVD player, I feel like I’m leaving some picture quality on the table. But this installer has a column with Widescreen Review (and another HT mag), has performed literally hundreds of installations, many in the six figure range, and has just about every certification available in the home theater segment. If anyone knows, he does, so you can see why I’m confused here. I do plan on getting specifics from him. Thanks for your thoughts.

Ronnie ... Ronald Reagan used to have an expression he used "trust, but verify." I think you should trust your installers judgement, but verify both options. Since the TV's haven't even been released, it seems a little premature to declare component or HDMI the better input at this point in time. Given all of the processing that is occuring in the source equipment and TV. Especially considering we are stepping up to 1080p. I really think you want to just get the HDMI-HDMI and HDMI-DVI cables needed to connect and configure both options (component, HDMI). The worst thing that can happen is that you have invested some extra money in cables and maybe a little extra in setup and configuration. If there is a clear winner, perhaps you can return the extra cables.

If you go to the Denon threads, you may find that there is a performance issue with the player that you have selected over HDMI and it is possible that your installer is trying to avoid a problem. A few months ago, I was researching DVD players to go with the new 1080p units and I was surprised by some of the problems Denon was having.

Remember, this is a hobby. So checking out component and HDMI should be a fun part of setting up your system.

[thommy]

He says there is a ‘digital handshake’ that must occur with HDMI that so far has been problematic
My understanding of the installer's statement wasn't that component gave a better picture than HDMI. I took his comment to refer to the HDCP handshake between the source (DVD player, STB, ...) and the TV set. Without searching the threads for the specifics, I seem to recall that you have to be careful about the order in which you power-on or power-cycle your components; otherwise, the HDCP handshake between the source and the set isn't successful and you can't view protected content.

[htwaits]

I seem to recall that you have to be careful about the order in which you power-on or power-cycle your components; otherwise, the HDCP handshake between the source and the set isn't successful and you can't view protected content.
That's been true with some set top boxes. I don't think you can watch protected HD content over component connections so there wouldn't be a handshake. That's only my impression and it could be wrong. :o

I've had no problems with my HTPC, STB, or DVD player. I turn the TV on first regardless of which input I plan to use.

[aaronwt]

Just set it up for HDMi and component and you're covered.

[Ronnie 1.8]

I’d like to get some feedback on HDMI vs component on my near-future theatre. My installer feels good calibrated component connections are still the preferred connection by the best installers, including himself. He says there is a ‘digital handshake’ that must occur with HDMI that so far has been problematic, and that there is already discussion of replacing HDMI with yet another connector. Obviously I want the best possible picture, whatever that connection is done with. I’ve not heard of these problems with HDMI, and would believe that with the Denon DVD player and receiver he has chosen for my system, and with the 6168, this handshake shouldn’t be a problem. If I went component with the Comcast digital STB and DVD player, I feel like I’m leaving some picture quality on the table. But this installer has a column with Widescreen Review (and another HT mag), has performed literally hundreds of installations, many in the six figure range, and has just about every certification available in the home theater segment. If anyone knows, he does, so you can see why I’m confused here. I do plan on getting specifics from him. Thanks for your thoughts. For those interested, here is Seth's reply, "Your installer is certainly right about many of the problems that we have been having with both DVI and HDMI. However, I do believe that it would be prudent to wire for both, as most of the problems we had are going away and things are working pretty well for newer equipment. If you will not have access to pull new wires in the future you should run every type of cable that you think you may need, and/or to save money run what ever you can afford now, and have a conduit installed to pull new wires in the future. With most equipment offering DVI or HDMI connections now, I would definitely try to keep things in the digital domain, especially with a digital TV like the awesome Sammy's."

[UCSB]

For those interested, here is Seth's reply, "Your installer is certainly right about many of the problems that we have been having with both DVI and HDMI. However, I do believe that it would be prudent to wire for both, as most of the problems we had are going away and things are working pretty well for newer equipment. If you will not have access to pull new wires in the future you should run every type of cable that you think you may need, and/or to save money run what ever you can afford now, and have a conduit installed to pull new wires in the future. With most equipment offering DVI or HDMI connections now, I would definitely try to keep things in the digital domain, especially with a digital TV like the awesome Sammy's."

I'll stick my neck out here and bet the HDMI, all digital path will be best. I have two DVD players connected to my Samsung DLP. One is via DVI and the other is via component. At least with my equipment, it is easy to see the DVI connection is the best.

[Daphoid]

I just took some measurements.. I'm going to have about 1" on either side of the TV and about 4" at the top, is this enough for ventilation? As for the depth, the TV will have about 17" behind it, is this enough space for the air to move around?

- D

I think I got lost in the shuffle a bit. I know the one poster is venting to a speaker enclosure, but I'm pondering if I have enough space to be OK? There is a small hole at hte back of the in-wall shelf that has my cables running through it, but nothing huge... I could wire a fan in there but I'd have to ask Dad to do that, and I'm not sure if he'd like me doing that since we painted the enclosure.

- D

[UCSB]

I think I got lost in the shuffle a bit. I know the one poster is venting to a speaker enclosure, but I'm pondering if I have enough space to be OK? There is a small hole at hte back of the in-wall shelf that has my cables running through it, but nothing huge... I could wire a fan in there but I'd have to ask Dad to do that, and I'm not sure if he'd like me doing that since we painted the enclosure.

- D

D... with 4" above, 1" one each side, and 17" in back, you should be fine. I have a number of Oregon Scientific weather systems in my home ... so, I placed an extra wireless sensor behind my Samsung DLP and I'm monitoring the temp in my enclosure remotely. I'll keep my eye on the numbers for a day or so and then post the results. It should give you a pretty good idea of what will happen (except you have much more room in your enclosure and it should work better).

[schaffer970]

Daphoid, based on what UCSB has seen with his installation (where he has less space surrounding his set that you will) you shouldn't have a problem. Don't forget we have active cooling going on here (there is a fan in the set) where air is being sucked into the set and then exhausted. As long as you don't push the set up against the back wall the exhaust will be free flowing (that is why Samsung wants 4" from the back of the set to the wall). As soon as I am able to go by a store, I will try to determine where the air intake is on the sets (I think it is from the front bottom grill). If indeed this is the case, then fresh cool air is being pulled into the set and the warm air is being forced out of the set. So long as there is a reasonable clearance around the set there should be no problem.

Active cooling (with a fan) is much different than passive cooling that is used in most consumer electronics. Passive cooling relies on heat rising which hopefully pulls cool in to replace the warm air. When equipment without active cooling is placed in an enclosed space it tends to warm up everything and the convection that is necessary for cooling doesn't happen as it should.

[scherer326]

Here is my problem. I have three component sources and only 2 component inputs come with the HL-R4667. Can someone please give me recommendations on a good component switcher. Please not to expensive, but something that will not lose picture quality.

[Aesculus]

Daphoid, based on what UCSB has seen with his installation (where he has less space surrounding his set that you will) you shouldn't have a problem. Don't forget we have active cooling going on here (there is a fan in the set) where air is being sucked into the set and then exhausted.

I was not aware that the sets had active cooling. If so and if we can confirm they draw from the bottom front then I may rethink my active cooling in the space. With 2" each side I will have more than enough vent space if there is an active fan inside the set.

UCSB I guess this is another 'investigation' item for the 68/78's?

[Manatus]

I was not aware that the sets had active cooling. If so and if we can confirm they draw from the bottom front then I may rethink my active cooling in the space. With 2" each side I will have more than enough vent space if there is an active fan inside the set.

UCSB I guess this is another 'investigation' item for the 68/78's?

If they're constructed like my HLN507W, the air intake and exhaust vents are both on the rear; the volume of hot exhaust air is not small.

[KYamnitz]

scherer326, most so-called "component switches" are way overpriced. You can actually get an RCA cable switch (video and 2 audio) that would work just fine, *but* do not get an electronic switch and make sure you get it from somewhere you can take it back to if needed. What I got was a manual Belkin switch (3 devices to 1 output) from MicroCenter. I'm actually using it to switch between my Comcast HD DVR (Motorola) and computer (ATI card w/ HDTV adapter), so the component cables are carrying 1080i signals through the switch just fine! :) IIRC, it was less than $15. Take care,
--Kyle

[scherer326]

you think radio shack carries something like this. can you send me a link or post a picture so I know what to look for. I heard about this rca thing just would like to see a picture of it or something like it. Which cable will go into which color then.

Will this work.

http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=15-1982

[7ate9]

Will this work
Yep, or rather that is the type of switch mentioned.

[scherer326]

which component cable will go into which color then?
red?
white?
yellow?

will HD picture look the same when using this

[7ate9]

which component cable will go into which color then?
red?
white?
yellow?
Doesn't matter so long as you keep it consistent.
which HD picture look the same when using this
That is the big question, but easy to find out for yourself. Anytime you introduce components to the signal path you risk degradation. How much? I dunno.

[schaffer970]

Schere326, the box you are looking at from Radio Shack will not work. It is not a component switch box. You might want to look at this box from Ram http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/comp-vid-sw.html#3x1 or see if you can find others that are made to switch component input.

[BJG2005]

Any recommendations on DVD player and receiver to go with the HLR-5667W set that I just got.

I'm replacing everything (loss due to fire).

Suggestions on brands, models, and/or features are much appreciated. I've seen questions on which input is best for DVD players to run into the set, but few responses. Comments on this area would be appreciated as well.

I'm watching OTA HD now and am very pleased with the picture. I have no plans for cable. Maybe satellite (big maybe). The room is about 15' by 22'.

Budget is undefined at this point because I don't know the trade-offs. Speakers will be next, btw. I'd like to keep the speakers (including sub woofer), receiver, and dvd player in the $3k-3.5k range. So, whatever I spend on the receiver and dvd player will need to come out of the speaker budget.

What are people connecting to their HLR sets?

Thanks.

[ARM07470]

Schere326, the box you are looking at from Radio Shack will not work. It is not a component switch box. You might want to look at this box from Ram http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/comp-vid-sw.html#3x1 or see if you can find others that are made to switch component input.

Why wouldn't it work? This appears to be just a mechanical switch so I don't see how it would have much more of a negative effect than, say, introducing a barrel connector to splice two pieces of cable together. I'm not saying that it would have no effect (any extra items in the signal path do) just that it is likely to be so minimal that it wouldn't be noticeable.

- Anthony

[prestl]

BJG2005, the best place I have found for DVD reviews is here http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-bin/shootout.cgi?function=search&articles=122. I bought the Panasonic DVD-S97. I DON'T have my 1080p HDTV yet, but it plays beautifully on my Sony 32" CRT. :D

[aaronwt]

which component cable will go into which color then?
red?
white?
yellow?

will HD picture look the same when using this

I've tried several component video switches the last 4 years. One I remember in particular was capable of only 30mHz bandwidth. I could definitely see a small loss of picture quality using this switch. Granted in everyday viewing I probably wouldn't notice it, but with a test pattern the difference was very obvious. I ended up getting an INDAY switch which has 230mas of bandwidth. It can be remote controlled. It's was around $150 but was well worth it since it is remote controlled and I could buy another box for digital audio as well. More expensive than what you were looking for. but if you're going to spend $2k to $3K for a TV, now it not the time to get to get cheap if you want the best quality picture. The INDAY switch works great for HD, but if you are only going to switch SD, like from a DVD player, then the other ideas will work fine. But for HD, I definitely see a difference in the picture quality with the switches with lesser specs.

[viptaylor]

I've read everywhere I can and I've tried everything to solve my delay issues with my PS2 (specifically durring NCAA 2005). I have the HLR5067 now (woohoo for me..I LOVE it!!!). B ut, I've tried both S-viseo, componant and composite cables and there is still a noticable lag when pressing buttons. I selected the imput and the "name" as game hopoing that would help...but it did not. I have the PS2 itself and the game set to 16:9. Any other suggestions? I'll try them right away. I see lots of other people mention the issue, but haven;t seen a real solution.

[TMSKILZ]

July 5th is what I'm being told as Samsung's new target date for the release of the 88 pedestal series.
I have a preorder through TVA for the 5688.
Can't wait!!!!!!!

[RJGinCA]

July 5th is what I'm being told as Samsung's new target date for the release of the 88 pedestal series.
I have a preorder through TVA for the 5688.
Can't wait!!!!!!!

This date couild be the one that sticks. I also have a TVA pre-order in for the 5688, but happened to be in Best Buy/Magnolia yesterday and noticed the 5688 was prominently displayed in their summer brochure. I casually asked the Sales Associate when it was coming in, and, after checking his computer, told me the 5688's will be arriving at their warehouse on July 14th (along with the non-pedestal 56" model). The first to pre-order will receive their TV on July 21st. The demo/floor model will be put on the floor sometime between the 14th and 21st, but they said they wouid try to do it right away--within 24 hours.

I think TVA tends to get Powerbuy product first (please correct me if I'm mistaken), so I have a very good feeling the July 5th date for TVA sounds about right. If all goes well, the Powerbuy pre-orders should have their Samsungs at least a week before the B/M stores.

[jwv651]

Samsung better hurry up Mitsubishi will start shipping their 1080P sets starting with the WD-52627 1080P on June 30th...looks like Mitsubishi will be the first 1080P DLP sets to make it to market. Samsung as usual is delayed.

[htwaits]

I also have a TVA pre-order in for the 5688, but happened to be in Best Buy/Magnolia yesterday ...
Which San Jose area Best Buy has put in a Magnolia branch?

[Aesculus]

If they're constructed like my HLN507W, the air intake and exhaust vents are both on the rear; the volume of hot exhaust air is not small.
OK. If the 68/78's still suck from the rear then I will still have to put in my active thermal fans to vent the enclosure. Otherwise I will just be circulating overheated air.

[htwaits]

OK. If the 68/78's still suck from the rear then I will still have to put in my active thermal fans to vent the enclosure. Otherwise I will just be circulating overheated air.
It couldn't hurt. :)

[Daphoid]

Blast to you all! I want my 68 series now! I swear, if you people start posting pictures I'm going to come to your house, take your 1080p TV, break off the pedastal and sit it in my room.

/rant

:D

- D

[MikeAlletto]

Blast to you all! I want my 68 series now! I swear, if you people start posting pictures I'm going to come to your house, take your 1080p TV, break off the pedastal and sit it in my room.

Don't worry, no one has one yet and won't for at least another month.

[UCSB]

Which San Jose area Best Buy has put in a Magnolia branch?

The Dublin, CA, BestBuy has a Magnolia area in the store. But, a real Magnolia is many times nicer.

[htwaits]

The Dublin, CA, BestBuy has a Magnolia area in the store. But, a real Magnolia is many times nicer.
I was just curious about the Santa Clara Magnolia which is a short block from the big BB on Stevens Creek and Winchester. It would be strange if they put one in there. :rolleyes:

[UCSB]

I have finished the heat tests on my TV enclosure. To see a photo of the actual setup CLICK HERE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=32221). The TV has 1.25" of clearance on each side, 1" on top, and 2" on the back.

There were some interesting results from the tests. I used one of my Oregon Scientific weather stations. It has wireless remote temperature sensors that send temp data back to the base station. I centered a temp sensor on the top of the TV within the enclosure.

Room temp was 73 when I started the test. I ran the TV for an hour and the temp in the enclosure increased to 83. The first thing I learned was that you can not really detect a 10 degree increase without a temp gauge. Using my hand, the temp increase felt minimal at this point. I let the TV run for 4 more hours for a total of 5 hours. The temp in the enclosure increased to 88.5 and seemed to stabilize there. At 88.5, you could feel a small amount of heat on the TV screen and cabinet.

I don't really know if I should be concerned about this temp or not. My initial reaction is not to be concerned. I've been running the TV in this configuration for almost two years. But, since it is relatively easy for me to make some improvements on airflow, I think that I will. I have three options. First, I can create some holes in the shelf above the TV. I can cut out some 3" or 4" holes and put some plastic inserts in them to have a nice finished appearance. Second, I could cut off the last three or four inches of the shelf giving me a wide area of airflow above the TV. Third, I could just move the shelf up an inch or so. I think I that I am going to start with the first option and just add six or so 3" or 4" vents on the shelf above the back of the TV and see if I can bring the enclosure temp down.

[UCSB]

I was just curious about the Santa Clara Magnolia which is a short block from the big BB on Stevens Creek and Winchester. It would be strange if they put one in there. :rolleyes:

The Dublin CA BestBuy (with a mini-Magnolia) is only a short drive (5 miles?) from the San Ramon Magnolia.

[wish_i_had_hdtv]

I was just curious about the Santa Clara Magnolia which is a short block from the big BB on Stevens Creek and Winchester. It would be strange if they put one in there. :rolleyes:

There is a Magnolia enclosure in the BB on Almaden Expressway - the BB near Costco/85.

I don't know why they are doing this given that the Magnolias (Winchester and Palo Alto) I have been to are much nicer and have more knowledgable sales people.

[gazelle]

I have finished the heat tests on my TV enclosure. To see a photo of the actual setup CLICK HERE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=32221). The TV has 1.25" of clearance on each side, 1" on top, and 2" on the back.

There were some interesting results from the tests. I used one of my Oregon Scientific weather stations. It has wireless remote temperature sensors that send temp data back to the base station. I centered a temp sensor on the top of the TV within the enclosure.

Room temp was 73 when I started the test. I ran the TV for an hour and the temp in the enclosure increased to 83. The first thing I learned was that you can not really detect a 10 degree increase without a temp gauge. Using my hand, the temp increase felt minimal at this point. I let the TV run for 4 more hours for a total of 5 hours. The temp in the enclosure increased to 88.5 and seemed to stabilize there. At 88.5, you could feel a small amount of heat on the TV screen and cabinet.


I don't really know if I should be concerned about this temp or not. My initial reaction is not to be concerned. I've been running the TV in this configuration for almost two years. But, since it is relatively easy for me to make some improvements on airflow, I think that I will. I have three options. First, I can create some holes in the shelf above the TV. I can cut out some 3" or 4" holes and put some plastic inserts in them to have a nice finished appearance. Second, I could cut off the last three or four inches of the shelf giving me a wide area of airflow above the TV. Third, I could just move the shelf up an inch or so. I think I that I am going to start with the first option and just add six or so 3" or 4" vents on the shelf above the back of the TV and see if I can bring the enclosure temp down.


If the temp. stabilzes at 88.5 degrees, that's a little high for comfort, i would try to keep it down to a max of 80 degrees at most, ideally. However, i don't think this would cause major concern unless you keep the set on for 8-10 hours a day or more, but it's close enough to the 90 degree "danger" mark for most sensitive electronics that it might pay to put in even a small inexpensive fan or vent as you suggest and re-measure the temperature with the set on for an extended period of time. What is your usage normally?

[John_Jones_CA]

If the temp. stabilzes at 88.5 degrees, that's a little high for comfort, i would try to keep it down to a max of 80 degrees at most, ideally. However, i don't think this would cause major concern unless you keep the set on for 8-10 hours a day or more, but it's close enough to the 90 degree "danger" mark for most sensitive electronics that it might pay to put in even a small inexpensive fan or vent as you suggest and re-measure the temperature with the set on for an extended period of time. What is your usage normally?

My house stabilizes at about 82 degrees in the summer and it costs me a lot of A/C to do that. I don't agree with your 90 degree "danger" mark either, my PC case is stable at 108 degrees and the CPU is at 150 degrees (intel of course :D ) and the PC runs 24/7, no stability issues. I would say about 110 would be high but safe.

I project that I will have thermal issues due to the < 3/4" spacing all around my TV but I will wait until I get it before I worry about venting the space behind the TV. I can pull air in below the TV (over my components) and out the top provided I drill some big a** holes.

[frogger79]

I know nobody has a 1080P set yet but wanted an opinion, and what better place then here. The dreaded rainbow effect! I've half-heartedly tried to see it in stores before but was never able to see it. Then I went to a friends house who has a HLP5063 and was watching the tv when all of a sudden I saw it! And once I saw it, I couldn't NOT see it. Had a couple friends say they were able to see it too that night. Was looking at the specs for the 1080P and it has the same 7 segment and 10800 rpm color wheel that the HLP5063 has. If I was seeing it constantly on the 720p, what do you think the chances are of constantly seeing it on the 1080p models? I was set on the HLR5668 until this. Now I'm starting to think a different type of TV may be better for me. Kinda sucks when you've been looking forward to this tv for months now. Thanks for the input.

[John_Jones_CA]

I know nobody has a 1080P set yet but wanted an opinion, and what better place then here. The dreaded rainbow effect! I've half-heartedly tried to see it in stores before but was never able to see it. Then I went to a friends house who has a HLP5063 and was watching the tv when all of a sudden I saw it! And once I saw it, I couldn't NOT see it. Had a couple friends say they were able to see it too that night. Was looking at the specs for the 1080P and it has the same 7 segment and 10800 rpm color wheel that the HLP5063 has. If I was seeing it constantly on the 720p, what do you think the chances are of constantly seeing it on the 1080p models? I was set on the HLR5668 until this. Now I'm starting to think a different type of TV may be better for me. Kinda sucks when you've been looking forward to this tv for months now. Thanks for the input.

If I were you I would stop looking at single chip DLPs period. Hopefully I am not, at least I THINK I AM NOT, and if I am I will just have to send the TV back to TVA and find another set or eat shipping.

[gazelle]

My house stabilizes at about 82 degrees in the summer and it costs me a lot of A/C to do that. I don't agree with your 90 degree "danger" mark either, my PC case is stable at 108 degrees and the CPU is at 150 degrees (intel of course :D ) and the PC runs 24/7, no stability issues. I would say about 110 would be high but safe.

I project that I will have thermal issues due to the < 3/4" spacing all around my TV but I will wait until I get it before I worry about venting the space behind the TV. I can pull air in below the TV (over my components) and out the top provided I drill some big a** holes.


Yes, but there is a big difference: computers are built to run at fairly high temperatures, RPTV's are not. I think if you check with knowledgeable electronics technicians, you'll find that the recommended temperature range is "room temperature" plus or minus 10-15 degrees. At least that's what i've always been told and the advice i've always passed on to dealers and wholesalers who've asked what to tell customers when asked that question. Depending on the manufacturer you ask, if you have a close enough relationship to get a straight answer(obviously it's a question they would rather not answer, if they give you a large range and something happens they get the blame, if they give you a narrow range and something happens you say your set was in the range they gave, so again it's their fault) none will recommend operating a DLP in an enclosed space with a temperature over 85 degrees and would laugh at you if you said you intended to run the set in an area where temperature would constantly be over 90 degrees.

[John_Jones_CA]

Well being that ambient room temperature is 82 degrees in my home for three months a year I would say the chances of keeping it under 85 degrees is zero, even with good ventilation.

[TetsujinWave]

I think you've answered your own question. DLP would appear to not be a good solution for you. I personally can make myself see rainbows, but they don't adversely affect my picture viewing. When the new 1080p sets come out, take a look at them closely to see if you still see rainbows. If so, CRT, LCOS, or PDP might be a better fit.

[gazelle]

I know nobody has a 1080P set yet but wanted an opinion, and what better place then here. The dreaded rainbow effect! I've half-heartedly tried to see it in stores before but was never able to see it. Then I went to a friends house who has a HLP5063 and was watching the tv when all of a sudden I saw it! And once I saw it, I couldn't NOT see it. Had a couple friends say they were able to see it too that night. Was looking at the specs for the 1080P and it has the same 7 segment and 10800 rpm color wheel that the HLP5063 has. If I was seeing it constantly on the 720p, what do you think the chances are of constantly seeing it on the 1080p models? I was set on the HLR5668 until this. Now I'm starting to think a different type of TV may be better for me. Kinda sucks when you've been looking forward to this tv for months now. Thanks for the input.


Chances are DLP is not for you. If you see rainbows on 720P sets, you'll see them on 1080P sets. I would suggest the new JVC 1080P D-ILA'S and Sony 1080SXRD's coming this fall. A lot of people feel these sets will be better than than the 1080P DLP's coming and that LCOS technology is far better than DLP technology, although you will find many Pro-DLP people here who would argue differently.

[gazelle]

DOUBLE POST - IGNORE

[gazelle]

Well being that ambient room temperature is 82 degrees in my home for three months a year I would say the chances of keeping it under 85 degrees is zero, even with good ventilation.


Don't sue me for bad advice, but under 90 or so is more than likely OK:)

[gazelle]

Not a DLP, but from a Hitachi LCD RPTV thread:






Amazingly Smooth
AVS Special Member
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Austin, TX USA
Posts: 1,841


Just wanted to update everyone on my set. I'm out of warranty and have a hot spot on my blue LCD. It doesn't show up right away after power-on but develops over time. Because of this I suspected that maybe it was temperature related--that is if I could keep it cool enough then it would be ok. Well I moved it out from the wall last night, and, sure enough, the hot spot never developed. That's all I know right now, but it is something else to try for those of you out of warranty and having hot spots.

Cheers

[rictus]

I know nobody has a 1080P set yet but wanted an opinion, and what better place then here. The dreaded rainbow effect! I've half-heartedly tried to see it in stores before but was never able to see it. Then I went to a friends house who has a HLP5063 and was watching the tv when all of a sudden I saw it! And once I saw it, I couldn't NOT see it. Had a couple friends say they were able to see it too that night. Was looking at the specs for the 1080P and it has the same 7 segment and 10800 rpm color wheel that the HLP5063 has. If I was seeing it constantly on the 720p, what do you think the chances are of constantly seeing it on the 1080p models? I was set on the HLR5668 until this. Now I'm starting to think a different type of TV may be better for me. Kinda sucks when you've been looking forward to this tv for months now. Thanks for the input.

I didn't notice them initially, but decided to try to look for them last time I was in a store with DLPs, and saw them immediately (mostly because the screen was showing some freeze-frames of a squirrel with a white underbelly). However, as soon as I decided to stop looking for them and just focused on the picture as normal, I didn't notice them anymore. This was true for my wife as well (she actually thought the rainbows were kind of neat :), but said they didn't interfere with her viewing once she focused back on the actual content). So you might try just watching the TV for longer--concentrating on the content---and seeing if they continue to bug you after awhile.

To me, it didn't feel any weirder than the interlace flicker you see on an old-style TV--it's there if you look for it, but it doesn't bug you if you're actually watching what's on the TV.

That said, I haven't watched a DLP TV for more than 15 minutes at a time, so I don't know if it would bug me more over time. The TVAuthority five-star guarantee appeals to me for that reason :) -- I can try it out for a couple of weeks and see whether it's a real problem. Still, I'm going to wait to see some early reports from 1080p owners before pulling the trigger.

[schaffer970]

There is no question that you cannot push any of the Samsung sets up against the wall. This will definitely block the cooling exhaust. Samsung wants 4" from the wall.

[ninthdragon]

Don't sue me for bad advice, but under 90 or so is more than likely OK:)

I hope I'm not being obvious or didactic, but isn't this specific information dealt with in the opening pages (that no one ever reads) of the owners manual? The user's guide for just about every piece of CE gear I've ever owned has a safe operating temperature range posted right up front. If you use that as a guide, you also won't have to worry about warranty violations for not allowing proper breathing room/temperature control! :eek:

UCSB,

The simple solution to your situation might be to just pull the set forward 1 -2 inches. Because of the design of the rear of the set, this small act should increase airflow significantly, lowering ambient temperature around the set simultaneously. If this doesn't work to your satisfaction, you can always fall back to your previous solutions. BTW, nice setup!

Good luck either way!

[nataraj]

... none will recommend operating a DLP in an enclosed space with a temperature over 85 degrees and would laugh at you if you said you intended to run the set in an area where temperature would constantly be over 90 degrees.

Let us see ... you are basically saying these sets will not work in India and other hot asian countries where central AC is an exception, rather than the norm. Apparently Samsung does not think so .... otherwise they won't try to sell these RPTVs in India (http://www.samsung.com/in/products/tv/projectiontv/dlptv/index.asp).

[UCSB]

UCSB,

The simple solution to your situation might be to just pull the set forward 1 -2 inches. Because of the design of the rear of the set, this small act should increase airflow significantly, lowering ambient temperature around the set simultaneously. If this doesn't work to your satisfaction, you can always fall back to your previous solutions. BTW, nice setup!

Good luck either way!

Thanks, I did consider pulling the TV forward and will experiment around with that option. I'm just trying to understand the situation and tweak the cabinet before I try to put a 5668 into the same spot.

[gazelle]

Let us see ... you are basically saying these sets will not work in India and other hot asian countries where central AC is an exception, rather than the norm. Apparently Samsung does not think so .... otherwise they won't try to sell these RPTVs in India.


Ummm..... Oh, They'll work, They just ain't gonna work for VERY LONG at high temperatures. Samsung, or anyone else can try to sell anything anywhere that it is legal, but not many savvy people will BUY A RPTV if they are looking for a TV that is going to be placed in a room that has a constant temperature of 100 degrees for instance. Also i guess you are not aware of how many BILLIONS OF PEOPLE live in either A) regions where temperatures are BELOW 90 degrees for considerable periods of time or B) in apartments or houses that do have air conditioning in China and India. If Samsung (or anyone else) sold a RPTV to even 1% of the population of India and China that qualify environmentally they would make a fortune without selling a single set in the rest of the world. It's not that there is no market there for these sets in India and China, there is a HUGE market that is growing daily, it's more economic than environmental. Of course RPTV's won't be big sellers in Equatorial areas ever. They'll mostly be bought by people in those areas who DO have air-conditioning:)

[gazelle]

I hope I'm not being obvious or didactic, but isn't this specific information dealt with in the opening pages (that no one ever reads) of the owners manual? The user's guide for just about every piece of CE gear I've ever owned has a safe operating temperature range posted right up front. If you use that as a guide, you also won't have to worry about warranty violations for not allowing proper breathing room/temperature control! :eek:

They usually try to not be specific with regards to temperature environments for obvious legal reasons. They normally just say that open, well-ventilated spaces are best and/or to keep these sets away from unusually hot, cold, damp, dusty, etc. climates and leave it up to you as to what you think these climates may be.
I believe Samsung is specific in their DLP Manuals in stating that the rear of the set must be further than 4" from a surface and the bottom of these sets must be unobstructed, on a flat, hard surface(No blankets, towels, etc.). I copied a post from another user earlier who had success eliminating an overheating problem by taking your suggestion and moving their set a couple of more inches from the wall.

[htwaits]

Also i guess you are not aware of how many BILLIONS OF PEOPLE live in either A) regions where temperatures are BELOW 90 degrees for considerable periods of time or B) in apartments or houses that do have air conditioning in China and India.
India — Population: 1,080,264,388

How many of that Billion are air conditioned?

China — Population: 1,306,313,812 (July 2005 est.)

Ditto.

Hyperbole? :)

Anyway, even 5% would be a 130,000,000 Samsung customers.

[thommy]

Hey, has anyone checked out the cool "Ignore List" option? Works like a charm!

:D