have the handfull of 67's shipped yet?


if u mean 67 inch.. .since when were there handfulls?

Just curious why you decided on the Axioms? I know that they have won a lot of awards, but I have a friend who is a Sound producer in downtown chicago and makes movies....recommendation is this:

Spend as much as you can on speakers. You could have the nicest reciever/dvd player but without great speakers, it's all useless. If you don't have room for 5.1, get a nice set of floorstanding speakers for stereo. This way you can buy 2 nice speakers instead of splitting your budget on 6 less impressive speakers. Don't buy bose! Mirrage, Sapphire, Klipsch, or Polk are the great choices. Get separate DVD player / reciever, just don't spend too much. For example, yamaha makes great recievers and crappy speakers. Denon DVD players are supurb, but you'd be much better going with a Harman Kardon Receiver 635, for example, rather than the Denon reciever for the same price....the sound quality is distinguisable. If you were looking at Axioms, why not consider the Mirrage ones for around the same price..like the Mirrage Omni S10-platinum, cc1, 250, etc...more amazing for the $$.

Just my 2 cents I've heard from a reliable source.

Question for you experts... Just got a new 4667W yesterday from plasmahouse Installed last night to antenna, works great. Watched a DVD last night, then shut her down about 2 am. This morning I got up before work to just watch a little while. I started going thru the locals when I got to ch 58-1. I'm in DFW. While on this station, the sound would go out, could still see the picture, then the screen would go blank, I'd hear a few clicks then the picture and sound would come back on. It did this over and over. While it was doing this, the unit would not take any commands from the remote. I checked the manual and it said if unit showed erratic behavior to unplug for 30 seconds. I did that once, didn't work. I then did it again, waited 20 minutes, no good. Finally, I unplugged and left for work. Any ideas? Bad unit? If it continues I guess I'll have to call Samsung for service. Shipping back to NYC from DFW is not going to be a viable option since plasmahouse only gives you 24 hours to report a problem and it has been about 30 hours now. Any input is appreciated.

Just curious why you decided on the Axioms? I know that they have won a lot of awards, but I have a friend who is a Sound producer in downtown chicago and makes movies....recommendation is this:

Spend as much as you can on speakers. You could have the nicest reciever/dvd player but without great speakers, it's all useless. If you don't have room for 5.1, get a nice set of floorstanding speakers for stereo. This way you can buy 2 nice speakers instead of splitting your budget on 6 less impressive speakers. Don't buy bose! Mirrage, Sapphire, Klipsch, or Polk are the great choices. Get separate DVD player / reciever, just don't spend too much. For example, yamaha makes great recievers and crappy speakers. Denon DVD players are supurb, but you'd be much better going with a Harman Kardon Receiver 635, for example, rather than the Denon reciever for the same price....the sound quality is distinguisable. If you were looking at Axioms, why not consider the Mirrage ones for around the same price..like the Mirrage Omni S10-platinum, cc1, 250, etc...more amazing for the $$.

Just my 2 cents I've heard from a reliable source.

I agree with this, But were does the Onkyo receiver's fall into? I have two of them and they are amazing. This is all that I ever buy for a receiver. You didnt mention anything about the Onkyo receiver. I have the model 1000 Ultra THX and the 901 model THX certified.

I decided on auditioning the Axioms after reading about 2,000 reviews of speakers. I had (actually still do) Polk RT115 towers and a Martin Logan center with polk surrounds, and a Velodyne sub. I was immediately impressed with the Axioms when they arrived. Very good build quality and very sharp. A little smaller than I thought, but they don't perform that way. All I can say is these speakers will not be going back to Axiom.

I don't know too much about Onkyo AVRs. I've found that people who get a nice receiver tend to love it because of what it does, but don't realize how it compares unless they can compare both. I've had another guy say take a look at the Pioneer Elite 56TX receiver. They absolutely love it and it is THX certified, but I think the best reviews are from people that have compared multiple ones on a setup and hear/see the difference.

Same thing with speakers...Axioms have got to be great since they have so many awards and so many people love them, but then I talked to a guy that deals with speakers and sound systems every day, uses different manufacturers and can tell you which are best. I haven't personally heard either the mirage or Axiom speakers here at my place before so I can't say too much but what I've heard from professionals...that's why I'm still doing research before blowing a lot on a whole setup. I know mirage deals with high end speakers, for example, and not just primarily home theatres systems like Axiom, plus they have a patented omni polar technology that is supposed to give out the most natural, accurate performance for home theaters and music reproduction. Besides only using pure titanium for everything all other manufacturers are bipolar and/or dipolar. Dipolar radiates sound in a figure eight pattern. The signal out the back is out of pahse with the signal in the front, creating a narrow, teardrop pattern from the front and back. Bipolar radiates in phase, and has a larger, more encompassing pattern, through has a little signal loss at the sides of the cabinet. Mirage Omnipolar speakers for around the same price radiate a spherical 360- degree pattern, producing a larger, deeper, and more relistic sounstage than any speaker design yet developed.

I'm looking to get the Smasung HLR6178W, has anyone gotten the Samsung TR61X2SB or TR61X@ stand specifically for that TV yet? I was wondering what the dimensions since the manual for the stand doesn't have it as far has how long the glass is and the height from the glass to the top so I know how many things I can fit on it.....I'm going to have a receiver, dvd, xbox, maybe ps3 when that comes out and center speakers on it. Those 2 stands made for that tv have only that 1 glass shelf. I want that stand cause it looks great, but I think it just may not be feasable when you have a lot of other components to add unless someone has a recomendation for something to add on the side. Any thoughts on what stands people are getting for it and how they are dealing with this?

I don't know too much about Onkyo AVRs. I've found that people who get a nice receiver tend to love it because of what it does, but don't realize how it compares unless they can compare both. I've had another guy say take a look at the Pioneer Elite 56TX receiver. They absolutely love it and it is THX certified, but I think the best reviews are from people that have compared multiple ones on a setup and hear/see the difference.

Same thing with speakers...Axioms have got to be great since they have so many awards and so many people love them, but then I talked to a guy that deals with speakers and sound systems every day, uses different manufacturers and can tell you which are best. I haven't personally heard either the mirage or Axiom speakers here at my place before so I can't say too much but what I've heard from professionals...that's why I'm still doing research before blowing a lot on a whole setup. I know mirage deals with high end speakers, for example, and not just primarily home theatres systems like Axiom, plus they have a patented omni polar technology that is supposed to give out the most natural, accurate performance for home theaters and music reproduction. Besides only using pure titanium for everything all other manufacturers are bipolar and/or dipolar. Dipolar radiates sound in a figure eight pattern. The signal out the back is out of pahse with the signal in the front, creating a narrow, teardrop pattern from the front and back. Bipolar radiates in phase, and has a larger, more encompassing pattern, through has a little signal loss at the sides of the cabinet. Mirage Omnipolar speakers for around the same price radiate a spherical 360- degree pattern, producing a larger, deeper, and more relistic sounstage than any speaker design yet developed.
Great knowledge thanks, What about the Athena speakers? I have these and love them completely. http://www.athenaspeakers.com/ and http://www.athenaspeakers.com/point5SeriesSpeakers.htm

They make very good speakers too. I would like to look into the speakers that you are talking about too. Do you have a web site about them?

Mirage is here:
http://miragespeakers.com/
Axiom with the 3 different system choices here: http://www.axiomaudio.com/epic80_main.html

I also found a large forum where a lot of people are comparing the mirage omnis to the Axioms...Seemed liked people were leaning towards Mirrage. Some were getting them and comparing them side by side ...any useful info, let us know:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/archive/index.php/t-214670.html

Here are reviews on the Axiom and Mirrage also and they actually compare them to each other. Seems like everywhere I look they are talking about mirrage or axiom for high end speakers.
http://www.hometheatersound.com/equipment/mirage_omni260_omnicc_omnifx_om200.htm
http://www.hometheatersound.com/equipment/axiom_epic_60.htm

Mirage is here:
http://miragespeakers.com/
Axiom with the 3 different system choices here: http://www.axiomaudio.com/epic80_main.html

I also found a large forum where a lot of people are comparing the mirage omnis to the Axioms...Seemed liked people were leaning towards Mirrage. Some were getting them and comparing them side by side ...any useful info, let us know:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/archive/index.php/t-214670.html

Here are reviews on the Axiom and Mirrage also and they actually compare them to each other. Seems like everywhere I look they are talking about mirrage or axiom for high end speakers.
http://www.hometheatersound.com/equipment/mirage_omni260_omnicc_omnifx_om200.htm
http://www.hometheatersound.com/equipment/axiom_epic_60.htm
Thanks, these are great sites to note. They help me a lot. I like the Mirrage speakers. The design is cool too.

Thanks, these are great sites to note. They help me a lot. I like the Mirrage speakers. The design is cool too.

Though it might be better to move the speaker discussion to the Speaker forum.

No need, thanks. I am done with the speaker issue, but if I have another question, I will go to the speaker forum, thanks again.

Looks like Samsung is getting a lot of x8 sets out. Fry's in Renton, WA had a new 88 (I think it was the 5688) displayed today, to go with a 6168 displayed a week or so ago, and at least two 6168's and two 5668's in boxes on the floor. Their Seattle area newspaper flyer prominently featured the 6168 (price wasn't close to the Power Buy). The Southcenter Magnolia has had the 5668 displayed.

And TVA said today they will ship my 6168 next week!

Haven't seen the Mits 1080p set, though.

Eric Stahlfeld
Seattle, WA

Looks like Samsung is getting a lot of x8 sets out. Fry's in Renton, WA had a new 88 (I think it was the 5688) displayed today, to go with a 6168 displayed a week or so ago, and at least two 6168's and two 5668's in boxes on the floor. Their Seattle area newspaper flyer prominently featured the 6168 (price wasn't close to the Power Buy). The Southcenter Magnolia has had the 5668 displayed.

And TVA said today they will ship my 6168 next week!

Haven't seen the Mits 1080p set, though.

Eric Stahlfeld
Seattle, WA
This sounds promising, I cant wait to see the new Mits 1080p sets, I want to do a comparison on these. I think by the end of September all the BO will be filled and them some.

So what would you experts suggest in regards to a stand and/or something else to hold all the things mentioned earlier for the 6178 and/or similar models?....I'm looking for something stylish and nice

I'm doing some DD on the Samsung HL-R6768W. Has anyone delt with www.shopsunshine.com ? Are they trustworthy?

I just viewed a 52" Mits 1080p set and posted some comments over in the Mitsubishi 1080p thread. It is definitely worthy of consideration and is definitely on a par with the 50" Samsung 1080p set in terms of PQ, detail, etc.

I agree. I just got done reading the article in the latest issue of Sound and Vision and it got a good write-up. The only thing against the Mits is that if they have similar PQ, inputs, details, contracts, etc etc....then I have to go with the Sammy because of its smaller size. Also, and the magazine agrees on this one, the 50" 1080p does not show off how much better quality your getting. So maybe the 5067w should be my first stab at HDTV.

I would have to disagree with you about that...the 50" or 52" 1080p even at 12' viewing distance looks noticeably better than the 50" set. I've viewed the 5067 and the 5078 side by side and the 5078 wins. Only you can decide of its really worth the additional $1000. I've decided that it is.
I think that 2 inches will make a difference at the same viewing distance. I would agree with what AkaStp states. I think that the extra $1000.00 is so worth it for a good set, something that will last for years to come. That is why I forked out the cash and bought the 6178. The 68 and 78 series wins for sure. Hands Down!!

BigpicknI'm doing some DD on the Samsung HL-R6768W. Has anyone delt with www.shopsunshine.com ? Are they trustworthy? They sell alot on Ebay and have a good rating however with a Large RPTV one of the most important things is the Return Policy during the first 30 days and post purchase extended warranty coverage if chosen.

Also, check which extended warranty is offered. If you've viewed the Owners thread you should've noticed enough DOA or replacements that make that 5 star return Policy very important. Are you willing to risk restocking fee's or service/support of the Forum Sponsor TVA? Low price means nothing if you end up with a DOA set. Just a thought as deficient support could cause PITA experience and cost far more. Best of Luck whatever you choose! :D

Which issue of S&V are you referring to?

Sept 2005 which was just being delivered this last week has the article on pg 38.

http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/article.asp?article_id=861&section_id=3&page_number=1 has the test bench results.

I would have to disagree with you about that...the 50" or 52" 1080p even at 12' viewing distance looks noticeably better than the 50" set. I've viewed the 5067 and the 5078 side by side and the 5078 wins. Only you can decide of its really worth the additional $1000. I've decided that it is.

Don't disagree with me, I'm just saying what I read from Sound and Vision. I can't say because I have only viewed the Sony Qualia next to the Mits 720p set. They didn't seen a lot different but I still need to check out the 1080p Samsung tvs and then I can make my choice.

I agree that for only $1000 or more is worth the extra money for a set that will last you for years to come.

Well guys...I have had my Samsung 6178 for a week and am VERY satisfied with PQ. The pixilation that was so evident at Ultimate Electronics in Phoenix is gone, FTMP. Actual Pixels, by the way, are darn near undetectible at 12 inches. I bought the Samsung HD-950 and I am surprised at how well it upconverts DVD res. to 1080i. Couldn't tolerate a two-week wait at TV Authority, so I bought the 6178 from a local retailer here in Scottsdale and splurged on the Repairmaster 4-year P&L warranty. Can not understand the exorbitant pricing of HDMI cables....$119.00 for 6-feet at CompUSA...outrageous! Thanks for all of your advice and wisdom....good seeing to all...

You should have used your AVS forum membership to get a discount on good quality HDMI cables from RAM Electronics. You would have received at least an equivalent quality cable for $30 to $40 dollars. The link is in the AVS Forum Power Buys and Special Items Section.

I love the discounts we get from this site. Its amazing!

About the HD-950 DVD player, doesn't that come with an HDMI cable?

black bar/screen size question...

I thought I had this all figured out, but I still do not.
I've got the 5667. On SVideo1 input is my DirecTivo box - standard definition. There is an option to set 'screen size/type' - I set that to "widescreen".
Last night on HBO was Six Feet Under. It was shown in Letterbox format.
When watching in 4:3 mode - I had black bars on the sides and top- fine and understandable.
However, when I switched to 16:9 format on the TV - I still got black bars on the top and bottom.
I know some movies are recorded in a different aspect ration (2.33:1 (???)) and with that I could understand the black bars. But in this situation I do not know why there are still bars.

Similar situation...
watching a DVD of Toy Story. The box says there is a 'widescreen mode - enhanced for 16:9 televisions'
I have my dvd player connected to the tv via component cable. (it's an older sony dvd player - no upsampling)
With the tv in 16:9 mode - I'm still getting black bars on the top and bottom. I have to 'zoom' to fill the screen and then I'm cutting things out.

Am I missing some basic piece of info - or is that just how things are???

Similar situation...
watching a DVD of Toy Story. The box says there is a 'widescreen mode - enhanced for 16:9 televisions'
I have my dvd player connected to the tv via component cable. (it's an older sony dvd player - no upsampling)
With the tv in 16:9 mode - I'm still getting black bars on the top and bottom. I have to 'zoom' to fill the screen and then I'm cutting things out.
I don't have your TV but I do have the HLP5063 so there may be some minor differences. Toy Story has an aspect ratio of 1.77:1 which is exactly 16x9 and should fill your screen if everything is setup properly.

The first thing that needs to be checked is your DVD player. It needs to know that you now have a 16x9 screen. Maybe you have already changed it from expecting to play on a 4x3 screen (the default), but if not then you need to do that. Some DVD players have a mechanical switch on the back of the set labeled something like 4x3/16x9. Others have to be changed in their setup menus.

The link at the bottom of my message covers the whole area of aspect ratios for HLM, HLN, and HLP models. There may be some differences using component input on your HLR set.

On my HLP I would have the P. Size set to Wide (TV), not Wide (PC), or any of the other choices, to watch DVD movies through component input.

Thanks - I read your black bar narrative and understand the first thing I need to do is check the DVD player setting.
That could/should fix that up.

As for the DirecTivo letterbox broadcast - I know I have changed the output setting on the tivo box to widescreen, but as I described above - am still getting black bars. (connected via svideo cable)

thanks for your help.

As for the DirecTivo letterbox broadcast - I know I have changed the output setting on the tivo box to widescreen, but as I described above - am still getting black bars. (connected via svideo cable)
You're welcome. I've never used Tivo or the S-Video inputs so I can't help there.

Good luck.

You guys are right...I will take the HDMI cable back and use my AVS membership to purchase one online. Good advice never ceases on this forum. A comment on Mitsubishi...

15 years ago, I was a "salesman in the field" for a "high-end audio/video dealer in Northern NJ. We sold Mitsubishi and I have always loved the product. However, I always had a ambiguous opinion on whether they were worth the increased payout for the goods. The profit margin is much higher than on other "oriental" electronics houses. The salesmen are close knit and protect that large margin to the death. The delta in PQ versus other top brands (back then..Matsushita products...Sony, Panasonic, Ttechnics...etc.) just wasn't justifiable in my opinion for the jump in $$$ paid out for the product. Since I got the product for wholesale, I bought the Diamondvision 35 (1985)and 40-inch (1991) CRTs, the latter with the switch for adjusting for the direction of Earth's magnetic field...and while I love 'em both, they were just too expensive at retail. So while the Mitsubishi 1080p Diamond sets could surpass the Samsung PQ when they are released in November, traditionally, the delta has been too large...so that justified my Samsung purchase now.
Also, I still can't get a straight answer on whether Mitsu will enable the HDMI input to handle native digital 1080p resolution, as opposed to that resolution being "handle-able" via the VGA analog input...which apparently the Samsungs can do now. Anyone have better info than I?

coyotesx5: Thanks for some interesting background comments. One point though: the 73" Mits 1080p set w/o the internal DVR (the 73727) has an MSRP of $5800, considering less than the 71" Sammy 1080p. The Mits doesn't have the 1080p VGA input, but other than this it has all the 'features' that the Sammy has. So the price sounds very good to me, provided of course that its PQ is as good, etc. Any thoughts about this? Is Mits pricing more agressively to try to make up market share on Samsung?

I posted my reviews of the OPPO OPDV971H, Sony DVP-NS975V, and Samsung DVD-HD950 in POST #4 of the 1080p Samsung Owners thread, to read it: CLICK HERE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5892463&&#post5892463). I was testing each player to check compatibility and performance with the new Samsung 1080p HDTV's.

What is the difference between the Samsung HL-R 5668 and the 5678? I am agonizing over buying one of these or the HL-P 5674w

What is the difference between the Samsung HL-R 5668 and the 5678?
The only difference is the appearance of the case.

Thank you. So the only real decision I have is if it is worth the $1500 difference in price between the HL-R 5678 or the HL-P 5674. Right now I'm leaning toward the 5674. If anyone can give me guidance I would appreciate it. I have read all of these posts. I don't do xbox. Looking for dependablity and good picture. I have seen the 5674 and like the picture. Can't imagine $1500 improvement with 5678, unless there are "must have" features I'm not aware of.

Another question. Are all 5674 the same? I do notice that Costco has a 5674C rather than W. Were the last manufactured 5674 the same as the first ones? How about U.S. vs. foreign model (are any of these sold in U.S.)?

Samsung HL-R 5656C. Does anyone know anything about this model ? How does it compare with the HL-R 5678? There seems to be quite a price difference.

Samsung HL-R 5656C. Does anyone know anything about this model ? How does it compare with the HL-R 5678? There seems to be quite a price difference.
Are you sure of the model. I've never heard of that one.

The HL-R 5656 C (Costco) is probably the same as the HL-R 5656W. I just called our Costco store and they have just replaced the HL-P5674C (or W) with the HL-R 5656C (or W). The cost is $2,499.00 with the base. This seems considerably cheaper than the HL-R 5678W. It is also cheaper than the HL-P 5674 that they were selling last week for $2,599 with base. Seems like a very good price.

Samsung HL-R 5656C. Does anyone know anything about this model ? How does it compare with the HL-R 5678? There seems to be quite a price difference.

5656C is a Costco only model. I have not added it to POST #1. It has last years case and lacks many of the features of the HLR5667W. It is a striped down budget 720p model. It is in no way comparable to the HLR5678W.

I have seen the thread on the HL-P 5674c, but I can't find anything on the HL-R 5656. Is the main difference the color wheel? The price is cheaper for the 5656 than it is for the 5674.

I just posted a (fairly detailed) report about getting my 6168 calibrated by SethS today:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6074893&&#post6074893

Hope you find it interesting.

Still no reply to a recommended stand for the HLR6178 to hold lots of stuff, is there another thread out there that may cover this that I can go to then?

I have been looking at these sets in the store and as I have a 67" on order with the Power Buy I need to make a determination as to whether to go with this set or wait for the Sony SXRDs. Unlike a friend of mine who constantly purchases and subsequently returns electronic goods, I would like to avoid doing so, despite TVA's offering a 30 day evaluation period. I currently own a Pioneer Elite rear projector, which has always had a terrific image on both HD and Standard Definition material. I was also an early adopter of HD, having purchased one of Sony's original 65" rear projecters, which was a disaster. It was only through the intervention of my Dallas dealer, Stereo East, that I was saved from a $10K financial loss.

I have made the following observations about the 61" from seeing sets in the store:

1) They are clearly superior to the previous generation Samsungs. Comparing the 1080P to an adjacent 720P Mitsubishi I did not feel that the difference in image quality was as great, but I could see more detail on the Samsung and it was brighter.

2) And while the image was extremely bright, it could seem too much so at times, in that in the folds of a white shirt the previous generation showed more detail, simply I believe, because the brightness was set lower and not overpowering the detail.

3) At times I did observe jaggies on material, which has just not ever been a problem on the Pioneer Elite. That caught my eye and disappointed me.

4) Watching ESPN HD this weekend on the new Samsungs, baseball (with its limited amount of fast motion) looked fine, but eye-level, on the field football action was degrading badly. Don't know if it was the source or the Samsung.

5) My son, who is a very anlytical Electical Engineer, told me that he devised a simple test to check for internal reflections in the light engine: When a 4:3 commercial is being broadcast he covers up the image except for the black bars on the side and watches to see if their darkness changes when the commercial consists of a brighter image. He said that on the Samsungs he could see some brightening of the black bars under these circumstances.

6) Watching an HD movie being broadcast on ABC (720P ?) revealed a flaw that I have seen on other DLPs. Very fine detail on the screen (if you were close enough to analyze it) was shifting back and forth. This was not a wobulation artifact. I now know that this is a conversion artifact, pixel "bobbing", that is occuring when the set is not receiving a signal at its native resolution. Could probably be eliminated with an expensive outboard converter, but I do not want to go there.

7) Lip sync issues. There are times that broadcasters flub up here, but there does seem to be a consistent problem with the new Samsungs. Will be interesting to see if all of the new 1080P sets suffer from this, due to the additional processing overhead of the more detailed image.

8). I would really love to see a full blown review in which the screen resolution and other paramters were objectively measured. I see that in the new issue of The Perfect Vision, Gary Merson tested a previous generation Sharp DLP with high quality optics and the previous generation of wobulated chip. In that review, he was critical of the resolution of the set compared to non-wobulated 720P sets. He documented this loss of detail with both 720P and 1080i material. If the newer chips are consistent with this, then they should outperform all previous 720P chipsets, but might not live up to their full 1080 potential.

So I am left wondering whether to wait for a smaller SXRD set or hope that when calibrated, the 67" set will perform as well as other 1080P technologies about to hit the market.

Still no reply to a recommended stand for the HLR6178 to hold lots of stuff, is there another thread out there that may cover this that I can go to then?


I got a NEo Moda stand at Circuit City and it has two usable shelves for equipment and the upper shelf was ajustable. It was on sale at the website and the store will usually match the price. The one bad thing about the stand is mine has no TV yet. I am going to put a 67" on it and let it overhang a couple inches on each side. I have a hole framed for a fireplace that was not put in and the TV fits perfect but the stand needs to be a little narrower to miss the base board.

I got this great stand from pottery barn for my 5667.
http://ww2.potterybarn.com/cat/pip.cfm?src=shpcfurabstvs%7Crshop%2Fshpcfur%7Crshop&pkey=cfurabstvs&gids=p5688
or use this: http://*******.com/78avz

It fits perfectly across the top. Tons of shelf space underneath for my components. I took the back off for easy access.
Love it!

I was going to purchase the Samsung 1080p 61" but have some concerns. Does anyone know what the cause is or the solution (if any).

In 4:3 mode with SD sources, there were vertical white lines (about 1/4" wide) on either side of the picture, followed by of course the black bars. It was much more apparent than in other DLP units. It was very distracting, when the scene got dark, the white vertical lines would remain bright on the screen. I observed this at several stores on several units, including both 50 & 61" 68 & 78 series.

Also, Has anyone tried the pc VGA input at 1920X1080 @ 60 Hz? How does it look?

Are there truely lip sync problems on the units to anyones knowledge?

Finally a dumb question, how sensitive are DLP sets to magnetic fields, I have R/L speakers that are not shielded that must be placed within a foot of the unit, will this cause problems?

In 4:3 mode with SD sources, there were vertical white lines (about 1/4" wide) on either side of the picture, followed by of course the black bars. It was much more apparent than in other DLP units. It was very distracting, when the scene got dark, the white vertical lines would remain bright on the screen. I observed this at several stores on several units, including both 50 & 61" 68 & 78 series.
I've seen a half dozen "68" and "78" sets but I've never seen what you describe.

Also, Has anyone tried the pc VGA input at 1920X1080 @ 60 Hz? How does it look?
There have been several positive reports -- right in this thread.

Are there truely lip sync problems on the units to anyones knowledge?
It's too complex an issue for a "Yes" or "No" answer. Maybe "Yes but ..." would work.

... how sensitive are DLP sets to magnetic fields
They are not. How sensitive is your bathroom mirror to magnetic fields? :)

I got this great stand from pottery barn for my 5667.
http://ww2.potterybarn.com/cat/pip.cfm?src=shpcfurabstvs%7Crshop%2Fshpcfur%7Crshop&pkey=cfurabstvs&gids=p5688
or use this: http://*******.com/78avz

It fits perfectly across the top. Tons of shelf space underneath for my components. I took the back off for easy access.
Love it!

Nice stand enjoy it

Hey whats up guys? I was wondering if there is a significant difference between the xx68 and xx78 series? I was checking out prices and I could get a 61in. or a 56in 68series tv for about 300 bucks more then 50in 78w. 61/56 was selling for about 3100. The 50in 78series tv was selling for about 2799.

So that brings me back to my original question. Is there like a difference? Which one is "better". Thanks.

I got this great stand from pottery barn for my 5667.
http://ww2.potterybarn.com/cat/pip.cfm?src=shpcfurabstvs%7Crshop%2Fshpcfur%7Crshop&pkey=cfurabstvs&gids=p5688
or use this: http://*******.com/78avz

It fits perfectly across the top. Tons of shelf space underneath for my components. I took the back off for easy access.
Love it!

That stand is super high! How far back do you sit?

So that brings me back to my original question. Is there like a difference? Which one is "better". Thanks.
The only difference is the appearance of the case.

Forgive my repetition if this was already discussed, but...

Before I purchased my Samsung 6178, I called Mitsubishi and spoke with a "technical support specialist" who assured me that the November '05 release of the Diamond(vision) DLP units with the built-in DVR would represent a quantum leap in PQ, improved contrast, and drastically reduced pixilation, especially when fed poorly "upscanned" (quotes not mine) material. He led me to believe that there would be substantial differences unrelated to the additional DVR circuitry...did this imply different circuit topologies than those used in the currently available models?

My experience selling Mitsu never got to the rear projection units...like the traditional ones and the dlps...but as far as CRTs were concerned, the standard Mitsus had 330 lines resolution, the Diamondvisions were all 525 at the minimum, and some were as good as 700 lines. The cheap Mitsus called MGA were 330 and lower. I guess what I trying to say is that Mitsubishi seemed always to make SUBSTANTIVE DIFFERENCES in their various models...mostly with deltas in PQ matching proportional deltas in cost. The tech advisor implied that besides the addition of the "glaremaker" screen shield and the DVR, that the video circuitry would be different. For those who would wait for the November "Diamonds", it would be wise to try to find out if Mitsu is endeavoring to improve upon PQ above and beyond their non-Diamond sisters now being sold. Boy, wouldn't I love to be a fly on the wall in Mitsubishi's design center...we may never know the truth.

HDMI v1.2 is here, here's the link.
http://www.hdmi.org/press/pr/pr_20050823.asp

Where can you get a 50in 78 series tv for about 2799?


At abesofmaine.

I have never bought anything from them (not yet) but they are certified by the B.B.B. so thats pretty reliable.

Thanks Htwaits for clearing that up. Now that I know that, I will be buying the HL-R5668W for only a little bit more (bout 200-300 bucks for 6 more inches!) when I have money! Maybe i'll get it by November in time for Xbox 360.

HDMI v1.2 is here, here's the link.
http://www.hdmi.org/press/pr/pr_20050823.asp


Is the V1.2 something that could be updated via a firmware update or is this built into new hardware? Also what version of HDMI is in the current Samsung 1080p DLP's?

Boy, wouldn't I love to be a fly on the wall in Mitsubishi's design center...we may never know the truth.
We do know the truth about the 2004 DLP sets. Internally they were the same throughout the original set of models. The "delta" for the DVR and Diamond case with the still glaring glass was about $1,500 when they first hit the market.

Thanks Htwaits for clearing that up. Now that I know that, I will be buying the HL-R5668W for only a little bit more (bout 200-300 bucks for 6 more inches!) when I have money! Maybe i'll get it by November in time for Xbox 360.
Good luck.

Still no reply to a recommended stand for the HLR6178 to hold lots of stuff, is there another thread out there that may cover this that I can go to then?

check this out

http://www.cjhomeandoffice.com/mommacude/vs74377-03.html

I got mine from BB I was able to fit my Pioneer AVR, HTPC, Samsung DVD 950, Karaoke DVD player, these items are on the lower shelf and on the middle shelf i have my XBox, PS2, Acoustech center speaker, Sony VHS player and DTV HD-DVR.
I have the Samsung HLR6168.

By not installing the top shelf foot (installed only the rubber), the base foot and by removing the TV's base, the height difference between this stand and the Samsung matching stand is 3".

I got this Gusdorf 57" stand (http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Gusdorf-57-TV-Stand-18421-/sem/rpsm/oid/125214/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do) from Circuit City. You can look at my 1080P DLP link to see what it looks like with the 6168 set. I have my center speaker on the bottom and 3 TiVos, iscan HD+, SDI RP82, and the OPPO player on the top shelf. I needed something that would hold my Center speaker and several components. I only paid around $175 when it was on sale, so it was worth it for that price.

Great stands and it's good to hear what you guys can fit on them.
Comparing the NEA Moda, Pottery Barn stand, Marquis Collection video stand (by Peter), and Gusdorf 57'' stand I think the Marquis might be my best bet since it still has that same design and look I'm looking for, and has a lot of space for placing items. What's great is that they have the dimensions for the top and lower storage compartments. When I was interested in the samsung tv stand, I had called to get dimensions of the glass and from the glass to the top and have still not recieved a call back. I think this one will be able to fit a mirrrage center speaker, hk receiver, hk dvd player, hdtv comcast digital box, xbox, and eventually a ps3 without having to get one of those audio towers.

I really liked the Tech Craft stand, but it looks like the marquis will be able to fit more units...:
http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Tech-Craft-DLP-and-Flat-Panel-TV-Stand-PTV583-/sem/rpsm/oid/114635/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do
but it looks like it is pretty high. So you just took off the legs and what do you mean by top shelf foot? Is it stable when you remove those things?

5656C is a Costco only model. I have not added it to POST #1. It has last years case and lacks many of the features of the HLR5667W. It is a striped down budget 720p model. It is in no way comparable to the HLR5678W.

What is the Costco version lacking? The label on the boxes at Costco were labeled HLR5656C, but the label on the TV itself was labeled HLR5656WX. Not sure the "X" means.

Also, I think someone in one of the other threads mentioned that he called Samsung about this particular Costco model and the service rep. said it had the HD2+ chip.

[ So you just took off the legs and what do you mean by top shelf foot? Is it stable when you remove those things?[/QUOTE]

i'm sorry, i meant the top glass...there are ten 1 inch plastic tube with rubber that goes between the top glass and the metal base. I only installed the rubber and i believe it made it more stable.

I just tried my new (30 min old) Samsung 5667w using autoprogram off the air with Cox Expanded cable connected but it found no channels. I tried CABLE. It gives me a choice of STANDARD, HRC or IRC . I tried off the air, off the cable, and off the choice of both Cable and Air but it can't find any channels. The analog I moved worked fine. I just discovered the Source button. It says "No imput devices are plugged in". But they are, I can see them and touch them. Appreciate any ideas?

I found this review on another site that was posted by someone who purchased the new Samsung HL-R6178W:

I received the new Samsung HDTV on Aug. 18, 2005. The television arrived in the new box without any damage or dents from the shipper. I've had a couple of days to learn the television and the features and you will be impressed by the performance. The picture is bright and crystal clear without any of the 'screen door' or wheel color effects that you read about with the DLP processor. If you don't own a high definition television, be prepared to be blown away with the picture quality. I watch a lot of sporting events on television, but I wasn't prepared for the sharpness of the high definition broadcasts. It is simply stunning. Even if you don't watch a lot of sports, the picture quality of this television makes regular viewing a new experience. You will see extra details in the picture that you have been missing on other televisions. I've started to watch all of my DVD collection again because of the high picture quality, and I now see things that I couldn't on my older televison set. Details are simply so much better on this HDTV set. I have been looking to upgrade my television for about a year now and spent hundreds of hours researching and watching new televisions and their display format. I could clearly see a difference between a DLP television and the LCD display. Set up on the television was pretty simple. Just hook up the HDMI cable from my DirtecTV HD set to the rear of the television. I also ran an S-Video cable to the television from my Denon receiver which runs all of my other video equipment. Pretty simple and clean. I also ran a secondary DVD player into the second HDMI input into the television from a Samsung HD 850 high definition converter DVD player. You simply change inputs from the HDTV's remote to change the display. Overall, I am completely satisfied with the decision to purchase this HDTV and was glad I waited for this upgraded model with the 1080p display. The HDMI inputs on this television were a huge factor in the purchase for the pure digital feed. I can also get Dolby Digital 5.1 sound from some of the high definition stations broadcast through DirecTV.

My question is:
When I get this tv, I was planning on using component cables, but it looks like he used HDMI to connect everything. But it doesn't support HDMI 1080p input, so how is the resolution brought to a native 1080p resolution? I guess I'm not sure why this forum was making a big deal about the tv not supporting HDMI 1080p inputs if it works to see channels in 1080p resolution with HDMI?

I just tried my new (30 min old) Samsung 5667w using autoprogram off the air with Cox Expanded cable connected but it found no channels. I tried CABLE. It gives me a choice of STANDARD, HRC or IRC . I tried off the air, off the cable, and off the choice of both Cable and Air but it can't find any channels. The analog I moved worked fine. I just discovered the Source button. It says "No imput devices are plugged in". But they are, I can see them and touch them. Appreciate any ideas?
Do you have your cable line plugged into the cable input?(there are two inputs, cable and ANT) On my Comcast system here I had to use IRC for it to find the digital channels when it did a scan.

Here is more information on this issue on another forum I started, but then got a lot of useful information from it:
http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/2/152630.html

I tried both cable inputs for a scan, no luck. I am not familiar with IRC, has anyone else had to use this?

TV GUIDE FUNCTION: Can this be disabled on a Sammy HLR 5667w? It has become a nuisance already after only 1 week of owning the TV.

Also, would anyone have any idea why my TV remote will control everything (cable box, DVD, etc.) except the stinkin' TV? Thanks for any suggestions (I think I've tried just about everything already, but you never know).

My question is:
When I get this tv, I was planning on using component cables, but it looks like he used HDMI to connect everything. But it doesn't support HDMI 1080p input, so how is the resolution brought to a native 1080p resolution? I guess I'm not sure why this forum was making a big deal about the tv not supporting HDMI 1080p inputs if it works to see channels in 1080p resolution with HDMI?

it appears, from Sony's SXRD PR release, that MPAA is preventing the new 1080p tv's from having 1080p inputs due to copyright/piracy issues. Therefore the 1080p tv's take 480i,480p, 720p and 1080i signals and the internal circuits in the tv upconvert and/or de-interlace the signal into 1080p.

The reason why the poster is using HDMI from their dvd player is that the majority of dvd players that upscale 480i movies to 720p/1080i will only do so over HDMI or DVI, not component (another restriction by the MPAA). Many have posted that there is little improvement between component vs HDMI from cable boxes, but HDMI/DVI for DVD players is the way to go

hope that helps

Here is what was posted in another forum in regards to HDMI vs component so that's why I'm not completely sure which connection type to go with:
I'm not sold on the DVI/HDMI connection method. I have experienced several pitfalls myself and others have concurred. These include, but are not limited to digital freeze, picture fragmentation, intermitant blackout, darkening, and distorted analog standard definition, especially with cable boxes.
I prefer component (Pr, Pb, Y) cables myself except for my upconverting DVD player, which is my only HDMI connection. I found excellent double insulated gold connector Phillips component cables at Target for half the price of Monster. I'm sure there are other good economical cables out there too.

TV GUIDE FUNCTION: Can this be disabled on a Sammy HLR 5667w? It has become a nuisance already after only 1 week of owning the TV.

Yes. I found it to be an incredible nuisance too - especially when turning the tv on. As most of my watching is via DTV - the TVGuide was useless.
You have to go into the TV Guide Settings and one of the 3 setting menus will have what you're looking for. (Sorry I'm not more specific - I'm not in front of the menus - but its there)


Also, would anyone have any idea why my TV remote will control everything (cable box, DVD, etc.) except the stinkin' TV? Thanks for any suggestions (I think I've tried just about everything already, but you never know).

Make sure the remote is in TV "Mode".
As you press 'mode' on the remote, it will toggle thru remote opperation of different components.

When I get this tv, I was planning on using component cables, but it looks like he used HDMI to connect everything. But it doesn't support HDMI 1080p input, so how is the resolution brought to a native 1080p resolution? I guess I'm not sure why this forum was making a big deal about the tv not supporting HDMI 1080p inputs if it works to see channels in 1080p resolution with HDMI?

Other than PCs, no consumer-grade video output devices currently output in 1080p--they all output in 1080i, which is deinterlaced by the TV to 1080p. So in that sense it's not a big deal for now.

True 1080p input is potentially an issue if:
-- you're hooking up a PC (which outputs 1080p60; you can get 1080p60 over a VGA connection, which looks good according to all reports, but theoretically not quite as good as 1080p over DVI/HDMI would; 1080i through DVI does not look as good as 1080p over VGA)
-- you expect to buy one of the next-gen game consoles (which supposedly will support true 1080p output)
-- you expect to buy a future high-def DVD system that outputs 1080p, and you're watching something other than a movie (since movies are 24fps, you don't lose any information with 1080i at 30 full frames per second, in theory). I don't know if it's confirmed that the initial batch of HD DVD/Blu-Ray systems will output 1080p, though.

Thanks for the info. I can't wait to get home and turn off that friggin' TV Guide! As for my remote troubles, I'm thinking I may just have a bad remote. It doesn't seem to matter what mode I'm in...it just doesn't work (although oddly enough it did work initially).

"I tried both cable inputs for a scan, no luck. I am not familiar with IRC, has anyone else had to use this?"

I finally called Samsung and they think it's a bad tuner. They will send someone out to look at it (first part of September). This is an area of over one and a half million people!! I can't believe it takes so long.

Also, How do you quote a msg within your reply? I click the Option "Quote message in reply" but nothing happens.

Regarding voice sync "problems" on the new Samsungs...I recently purchased the Samsung 6178 and initially feared that an ocassional few millisecond disparity was due to the TV...it was not. My miserable Scientific Atlanta 8300HD was the culprit...and I discovered this by A/B tests I did across a whole spectrum of channels, HD and non HD. If anyone experiences audio-video sync problems with the 6178, please post them here and how you went about resolving them!

If anyone experiences audio-video sync problems with the 6178, please post them here and how you went about resolving them!
I think you are posting your message in the wrong thread. Try this one.

Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLRxxx8W DLP Models (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6095192#post6095192)

Thanks..you know, I WAS in the other thread, but somehow got posted here...and the posting created an unusual typo that I had to edit/ fix...thanks for redirecting me to the proper thread.

I was reading in my latest Sound and Vision magazine about the new Mits 1080p set. Maybe I read it wrong, but the article was saying that these sets' inputs cannot handle 1080p signals and only 720p/1080i. It mentioned this for the component and HDMI inputs. If this is true and it should be similar to the Sammy DLPs, then is it worthless to get a new 1080p sets if they cannot handle that signal. Help please :)

I was reading in my latest Sound and Vision magazine about the new Mits 1080p set. Maybe I read it wrong, but the article was saying that these sets' inputs cannot handle 1080p signals and only 720p/1080i. It mentioned this for the component and HDMI inputs. If this is true and it should be similar to the Sammy DLPs, then is it worthless to get a new 1080p sets if they cannot handle that signal. Help please :)

The Sammy's will do 1080p over vga. The only thing on the horizon that
would make 1080p over HDMI of value is playstation3.

^so does that mean that DVD players and Cable Boxes just have not use the HDMI ability to ouput a progressive 1080 signal or is it that the HDMI cables cannot handle that?

Also, anyone know or think that future DLP sets will allow 1080p over other inputs? VGA is not very common.

I was reading in my latest Sound and Vision magazine about the new Mits 1080p set. Maybe I read it wrong, but the article was saying that these sets' inputs cannot handle 1080p signals and only 720p/1080i. It mentioned this for the component and HDMI inputs. If this is true and it should be similar to the Sammy DLPs, then is it worthless to get a new 1080p sets if they cannot handle that signal. Help please :)

Here we go again!

I was reading in my latest Sound and Vision magazine about the new Mits 1080p set. Maybe I read it wrong, but the article was saying that these sets' inputs cannot handle 1080p signals and only 720p/1080i. It mentioned this for the component and HDMI inputs. If this is true and it should be similar to the Sammy DLPs, then is it worthless to get a new 1080p sets if they cannot handle that signal. Help please :)
I wouldn't call my 1080P set worthless, especially since there is a big difference in the picture between it and the 720P DLP sets.

Here we go again!

Could you explain some more on this issue. I'm sorry if this is bringing up a bad issue but I am a curious buyer. Also, I don't mean to put anyone's new DLP tv down or degrade it. I just wanted to know about an issue I read about in a magazine. Can someone briefly explain this to me?

I hope this clears things up for everyone....if any of the info below is incorrect, please let us know, but this is how I'm understanding it:

You will get the most from your existing game box by using component (Pr, Pb, Y) cables and playing games that utilize progressive scan, either by default or selected from the menu. You will have exactly the right set for a future PS3 purchase.

You are correct that the HDMI port along with DVI and component connections will not support a 1080P signal format in Samsung sets. The truth is that the connection itself has no such limitation, but Samsung has decided not to process 1080P signal from these inputs. The ATSC tuner within the set will accept off-air broadcasts at 1080P and display them should any broadcasting network do such a thing. This is not likely in the near future.
The fact of the matter is that a 1080I signal has all the lines of resolution that a 1080P generated signal would have. It's just broadcasted and received as an "interlaced" scan method signal rather than a "progressive" scan method signal. The new Samsung 1080P sets, by design, can only display in their native 1080P format no matter what the input signal format is. Any input signal will be scaled to the sets 1080P display format, period. This means that a 1080I signal will be scanned on the screen progressively in all the glorious detail of any 1080P source signal. I'm sure that the PS3 will have the option of selecting the 1080I format as an output choice. I actually checked out the specs and Xbox goes up to 1080i and PS3 has 1080i or 1080p. Your set will convert the scanning method to progressive and nothing will be lost.

Your Comcast box must be set to output 1080I and the set will convert the scanning method with that signal too.

I thought I had this understood, but I find myself questioning it again last night.

I've got a 5667. There is a button on the remote to turn on the DNIe test mode. The screen splits and 1/2 the screen shows the picture with DNIe 'on' and the other half with DNIe 'off'.
The side with DNIe 'on' looks a bit better (or at least different)...

When the DNIe test mode is turned off, the full picture returns, but instead of it appearing like the DNIe 'ON' side, it looks like DNIe 'OFF'.

Is that correct? Are my eyes playing tricks on me?

There doesn't appear to be anywhere to toggle on/off DNIe.

What could I be missing here?

Thanks in advance.

I wouldn't call my 1080P set worthless, especially since there is a big difference in the picture between it and the 720P DLP sets.
I wouldn't say big difference. But I think that is what is key about these new sets, people have to look at them an judge for themselves.

I found this info on Samsungs website:
http://erms.samsungusa.com/customer/sea/jsp/faqs/print.jsp?AT_ID=15500


To turn on DNIe on most Samsung DLP TVs, follow these steps:

1. Turn on your TV.
2. Press the Menu button on your remote. The Main menu appears.
3. Press the Up or Down arrow button on your remote to select Picture, and then press the Enter button. The Picture menu appears.
4. Press the Up or Down arrow button on your remote to select DNIe and then press the Enter button.
5. Press the Up or Down arrow button on your remote to select Off, Demo, or On, and then press the Enter button.
6. Press the Exit button to exit.

Note: If your remote has a DNIe button, you can press the DNIe button repeatedly to cycle through the On, Off, and Demo settings instead of accessing the DNIe settings through the Menu.

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

From that, I should have the option to turn DNIe on and off (in addition to viewing the DNIe demo). I can only view the DNIe demo.
What am I missing???

This has been discussed ad-nauseum on numerous occassions in several threads. The newer Samsung TVS no longer provide the ability to turn DNIe On/Off via the Picture menu or the remote. This is reflected in the TV manual.

Yes, I have seen that info posted before.
But it does not explain why my picture appears to be in DNIe 'OFF' mode.
I've done the DNIe test mode on multiple inputs (cable/satelite/component dvd) at different times of the day - and each time - when toggling bettwen DNIe test mode on/off my picture more closely resembles DNIe 'OFF'

Thanks for the heads up - heading over there right now.
Seems like a bunch of other folks feel their DNIe is set to 'Off' as well...

Could you explain some more on this issue. I'm sorry if this is bringing up a bad issue but I am a curious buyer. Also, I don't mean to put anyone's new DLP tv down or degrade it. I just wanted to know about an issue I read about in a magazine. Can someone briefly explain this to me?
It's not that you have brought up a "bad issue". It's that the same question has been ask, and answered many times in this thread and in other 1080p threads.

The more you read the fewer times you will need to ask repetitive questions. And, you probably will wind up knowing a lot more than just the answer to your current moments question. :)

Thanks for the heads up - heading over there right now.
Seems like a bunch of other folks feel their DNIe is set to 'Off' as well...

DNIe is not a feature that you can turn ON / OFF. It is a marketing term for all of the complex processing that is performed in the TV to produce the picture. Turning it OFF or ON does not make any sense. The DNIe demo is just a sales tool for selling TV in a showroom.

Thanks for the heads up - heading over there right now.
Seems like a bunch of other folks feel their DNIe is set to 'Off' as well...
My theory is that DNIe is on and that the "Demo" is artificial and intended as a marketing tool. It's ON side has nothing to do with reality. :rolleyes:

I hope this clears things up for everyone....if any of the info below is incorrect, please let us know, but this is how I'm understanding it:That's pretty much how I understand it too, except that I think it holds true for all the 1080p models expected this year, not just Samsung.

Then how do you explain the fact that if you go into the SM you find that DNIe is set to Off and turning it to On has a profound effect on the picture along the lines of how it looks on the Left (DNIe On) side of the screen in DNIe Demo mode? I also used to think that DNIe was hard-wired to be always On until I got the TV and played with the DNIe settings in the SM. Now, I think its Off, probably unintentionally. We're obviously going round in circles with this subject and probably with little hope of resolving it. Its currently all down to personal opinions and speculation.Check the DNIe thread. I just posted a third person quote from SethS on the nature of DNIe. I'll see if I can get more information from him. Nothing promised though.

I can't explain what you guys are seeing in your service menu or why the change to ON doesn't hold.

As for DEMO, if it looks like a duck ... :)

Samsung offered to upgrade my year-old problematic HL-P6163 to the HL-R6168 for a little over $500. Seems a bit steep to me, but they appear to be quite firm. Does this seem like a reasonable cost for the additional features to you guys?

I'd take it.

Samsung offered to upgrade my year-old problematic HL-P6163 to the HL-R6168 for a little over $500. Seems a bit steep to me, but they appear to be quite firm. Does this seem like a reasonable cost for the additional features to you guys?

Absolutely ... are you kidding, they could have just taken you to a 6167, the comparable model. Take it NOW!

Absolutely ... are you kidding, they could have just taken you to a 6167, the comparable model. Take it NOW!

Well, they offered the 6167 for free. The problem with the upgrade is that it will invalidate my extended warranty IF it costs me any money. Add $400 wasted on that if I go the 6168 route.

I noticed that early on on my HL-P5063. It appears to me that the HL-P's are capable of 4 levels of DNIe.

1) DNIe Demo mode On (ridiculously over enhanced)
2) DNIe On (over enhanced)
3) DNIe Demo mode Off (slightly over enhanced)
4) DNIe Off (good!)

The bottom line is that the DNIe Demo mode shows two levels of enhancement that are in no way similar to what you actually get turning DNIe on of off. Pretty lame in my opinion.

I'd take the 6167 if it is free. Seems like you have paid enough for a DLP without adding another 500 to whatever your original cost was....I know I'll get flamed since the $500 is a 1080 set.

Then how do you explain the fact that if you go into the SM you find that DNIe is set to Off and turning it to On has a profound effect on the picture along the lines of how it looks on the Left (DNIe On) side of the screen in DNIe Demo mode? I also used to think that DNIe was hard-wired to be always On until I got the TV and played with the DNIe settings in the SM. Now, I think its Off, probably unintentionally. We're obviously going round in circles with this subject and probably with little hope of resolving it. Its currently all down to personal opinions and speculation.

I haven't experimented with an HL-R yet, but I think you are probably on the right track. I also bet that it is input type specific.

I wouldn't be surprised if DNIe does very little or is practically off on the HDMI input, but goes to down on the antenna/composite/S-Video inputs and does something in between on the component input.

That is what I'm hoping, anyway.

It's not that you have brought up a "bad issue". It's that the same question has been ask, and answered many times in this thread and in other 1080p threads.

The more you read the fewer times you will need to ask repetitive questions. And, you probably will wide up knowing a lot more than just the answer to your current moments question. :)



Jeez...lighten up folks. It can take a day or two to to read through some of these threads to find the answer to a question that might have been asked before!! (Time that you should be using watching your TV!!)

Well, they offered the 6167 for free. The problem with the upgrade is that it will invalidate my extended warranty IF it costs me any money. Add $400 wasted on that if I go the 6168 route.

You can get the warranty changed to the new unit. There have been several member who have done that same thing. One note, has the A/V sync been fixed on the 6168. I was told by Samsung that the A/V sync issue is inherent in the design. :(

You can get the warranty changed to the new unit. There have been several member who have done that same thing. One note, has the A/V sync been fixed on the 6168. I was told by Samsung that the A/V sync issue is inherent in the design. :(

I don't expect the A/V sync to be any better (or worse) than what I have now in the 6163. Also, the warranty folks claim they can switch the warranty to a new model only if it was a free replacement. I didn't like that answer, but they stood by it.

Isn't the $500 for the white glove delivery service? :rolleyes:

Jeez...lighten up folks. It can take a day or two to to read through some of these threads to find the answer to a question that might have been asked before!! (Time that you should be using watching your TV!!)Just a few of questions.

How many of my posts have you read?

How many of subwoofer's posts have your read?

How much information have you collected to share with others?

How many questions have you answered?

Why the big font? :)

Well, they offered the 6167 for free. The problem with the upgrade is that it will invalidate my extended warranty IF it costs me any money. Add $400 wasted on that if I go the 6168 route.Who's extended warranty do you have?

I would think that your set is covered by Samsung's 1 year warranty so they would be the only ones involved in the exchange.

If the extended warranty is not paying for the replacement set, you should be able to transfer the warranty to any new set. I did read about one extended warranty that cancelled it's policy anytime they had to pay for a replacement set.

Just a few of questions.

How many of my posts have you read?

I have no idea...I don't look at people's screen names

How many of subwoofer's posts have your read?

ditto

How much information have you collected to share with others?

none....I'm still new and trying to learn...that's why your post struck me as extremely rude.

How many questions have you answered?

ditto

Why the big font?

why not!


:)

:rolleyes:

^Would everyone just chill out. Both sides are getting all wound up about what to post and what not to post and everyone acts like they are the forum police in here. Did you ever stop and think that I glanced through this thread and a few others and was unable to find my answer? And did you ever think that maybe I posted my question because I wanted to comment on what I "recently" read in a magazine and was curious what everyone thought about it? So would both sides to this fight please calm down and just enjoy this forum. Peace

^Would everyone just chill out. Both sides are getting all wound up about what to post and what not to post and everyone acts like they are the forum police in here. Did you ever stop and think that I glanced through this thread and a few others and was unable to find my answer? And did you ever think that maybe I posted my question because I wanted to comment on what I "recently" read in a magazine and was curious what everyone thought about it? So would both sides to this fight please calm down and just enjoy this forum. Peace

Subwoofer - you have been on this thread almost since it started. This is the millionth time you have asked someone ELSE to justify why YOU should be buying a 1080P. Forgive us for losing patience with you.
:o

Subwoofer - you have been on this thread almost since it started. This is the millionth time you have asked someone ELSE to justify why YOU should be buying a 1080P. Forgive us for losing patience with you.
:o

Isn't that what forums are used for? Asking various people their opinions and getting a vast amount of different knowledge. Everyone here is wound too tight and needs to relax. I was just asking a simple question and wanted to state what I had read in a magazine.

So......does anyone have an opinion or some knowledge of my question above? Either way, I got to see the 5078w at Tweeter last night and I must say that it had a brighter and better PQ that the 720 Mits

Who's extended warranty do you have?

I would think that your set is covered by Samsung's 1 year warranty so they would be the only ones involved in the exchange.

If the extended warranty is not paying for the replacement set, you should be able to transfer the warranty to any new set. I did read about one extended warranty that cancelled it's policy anytime they had to pay for a replacement set.

My extended warranty was purchased at SoundTrack (aka Ultimate Electronics) and it does only allow for one replacement at their expense. The Samsung exchange is via the manufacturers 1 yr warranty. I think the issue with the extended warranty is that it is based on the purchase price of the unit. If I now effectively pay more, then I am not covered...just guessing at that though. As I read through my contract, the only sentence I see governing exchange reads as follows: "If the product is exchanged by your retailer, you must advise the Administrator in writing at...or call...with the make, model, and serial number of the new product within 10 days of the exchange." I can't find anything about replacement by the manufacturer, but I would assume this sentence applies.

This is for subwoofer. I hope it makes him feel that he isn't under attack.

I was reading in my latest Sound and Vision magazine about the new Mits 1080p set. Maybe I read it wrong, but the article was saying that these sets' inputs cannot handle 1080p signals and only 720p/1080i.That's correct.

It mentioned this for the component and HDMI inputs.That's also correct.

If this is true and it should be similar to the Sammy DLPs, then is it worthless to get a new 1080p sets if they cannot handle that signal. That's debatable. I believe there are more people who think the new 1080p sets will be an improvement than those who think they are worthless.

Help please :)If you want to read the debate then check out this thread and other threads like:

1080p HDMI: What's the fuss about? (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=572554)

The very first message after yours was written by tonydeluce:

"The Sammy's will do 1080p over vga. The only thing on the horizon that
would make 1080p over HDMI of value is playstation3."

His point was that there will not be 1080p source material to input into a RPTV for a long time.

Then you asked another question.

"so does that mean that DVD players and Cable Boxes just have not use the HDMI ability to output a progressive 1080 signal or is it that the HDMI cables cannot handle that?"
At this point nothing but a PC is capable of using a 1080p signal. HDMI cables and ports can do 1080p but the devices on either end can't and probably won't for some time.

Also ask by you.

"Also, anyone know or think that future DLP sets will allow 1080p over other inputs? VGA is not very common."

DLP, LCD and LCoS sets will at some point allow 1080p inputs. The first one to "claim" that they are going to provide a HDMI 1080p port is LG on their new 70" LCoS TV. It may be out this fall. LG did a demo in a show in Australia recently.

The next person who replied to your "original" question was Rob Tomlin who wrote:

"Here we go again!"

Then aaronwt also replied to your original message:

"I wouldn't call my 1080P set worthless, especially since there is a big difference in the picture between it and the 720P DLP sets."

I think Rob Tomin was referring to the fact that the whole subject had been discussed in this thread and other 1080p threads since the 2005 CES show.

I think aaronwt's reply reflects the opinion of almost all of the owners of new 1080p sets. It also reflect the professional opinion of the four ISF calibrators who contribute to our forum. (SethS, Cheezmo, Eliab, and David Abrams)

It seems to me that by this point you had gotten a lot of information in answer to your original question. It also doesn't seem to me that anyone is fighting with you or anyone else.

You then replied to Rob Tomlin's "Here we go again!" with:

"Could you explain some more on this issue. I'm sorry if this is bringing up a bad issue but I am a curious buyer. Also, I don't mean to put anyone's new DLP tv down or degrade it. I just wanted to know about an issue I read about in a magazine. Can someone briefly explain this to me?"

No one that I can tell, had implied or suggested that you were bringing up a "bad" issue. Maybe "over discussed" but not "bad".

At this point Big Worms also made a positive contribution when he replied to aaronwt's original message to your:

"I wouldn't call my 1080P set worthless, especially since there is a big difference in the picture between it and the 720P DLP sets."

Big Worm's comment:

"I wouldn't say big difference. But I think that is what is key about these new sets, people have to look at them an judge for themselves."

Then in reply to your "I'm sorry if this is bringing up a bad issue" I wrote this:

"It's not that you have brought up a "bad issue". It's that the same question has been ask, and answered many times in this thread and in other 1080p threads."

I don't believe this was an attack or a fight.

I've been answering some of your questions since you became a member in September 2004. During that time I've felt that you are a very nice person and I still do. I think you misunderstood what I wrote next.

"The more you read the fewer times you will need to ask repetitive questions. And, you probably will wind up knowing a lot more than just the answer to your current moments question."

Many people who are searching for information to make an expensive TV purchase, in a very confusing environment, subscribe to the threads that discuss the TV's and/or technology that they are interested in. They also select the User Option that causes AVS to notify them by email when ever there is a new message posted to the threads that they have subscribed too. It's a great way to keep up with a constant flow of information.

From my point of view there isn't nor has there been a fight. I still think you are a great guy. But I also wish you could find the time to do a little more reading and a little less "... I glanced through this thread and a few others and was unable to find my answer?".

I hope you understand where I'm coming from.

I can't find anything about replacement by the manufacturer, but I would assume this sentence applies.I wouldn't make that assumption. Good luck.

Hey everyone!

I Hope you're all doing well. I've been away off and on pretty much the entire month of August. I got a email from my installer yesterday who informed me that the Samsung's have finally hit Canada and just became available recently so he's looking into a price for me (woot!). I'm just curious if any new issues have popped up, or things have settled down somewhat? I've decided that for lag with gaming I'll just use GAME mode because most games on the PS2 are 480i or 480p anyways, so that's a big a loss as the XBox which is 720p, unless we've found a solution for that.

Thanks!

- D

The next person who replied to your "original" question was Rob Tomlin who wrote:

"Here we go again!"

Then aaronwt also replied to your original message:

"I wouldn't call my 1080P set worthless, especially since there is a big difference in the picture between it and the 720P DLP sets."

I think Rob Tomin was referring to the fact that the whole subject had been discussed in this thread and other 1080p threads since the 2005 CES show.

.....

You then replied to Rob Tomlin's "Here we go again!" with:

"Could you explain some more on this issue. I'm sorry if this is bringing up a bad issue but I am a curious buyer. Also, I don't mean to put anyone's new DLP tv down or degrade it. I just wanted to know about an issue I read about in a magazine. Can someone briefly explain this to me?"

No one that I can tell, had implied or suggested that you were bringing up a "bad" issue. Maybe "over discussed" but not "bad".





Exactly right.

This is for subwoofer.

snip...

I hope you understand where I'm coming from.

I think htwaits is being way too nice. subwoofer - like I have said to you before - you need to come to some decision in your head. If you don't think 1080P are worth it, DON'T BUY! Get an HLP or HLR 720P set and be happy.

There is nothing to be gained by you showing up here once every week or two and asking for justification to buy a 1080P v/s a 720P.

I am not trying to be mean - I hope you understand where I am coming from as well. ;)

I don't even know where to begin with this. I was just trying to get a few more opinions and I get my head chewed off. And yes I do subscribe to many threads on this forum and I am very familiar with the User CP option, so I don't need that explained to me. I also think you are a few nice guy and thank you for reposting all of that useful information that I have already read. The reason I was trying to get more information was because I thought those answers were not enough information. I will continue though to glance through these forums because that is my choice as well it is your choice to post something or not. If you don't care for people who do this then don't write back to them. But I appreciate your reposting of some answers but I was hoping to get something from the previous 200 pages that I don't have time to read though. And not to repeat myself, but I was hoping others would comment on what I read in a magazine and go from there. Thats all I wanted to do.....jeez.

I thought this place was for mature posters but I guessed wrong :( No where in here was I trying to cause any problems or for people to get angry. I try to post every now and then on what I have seen in stores and what I have read in magazines and articles on the web. I have already made a decision but I will continue to do some more testing to know if HDTV is a good purchase now or possibly in a few years.

Anyone read this article?:
http://www.hdtvexpert.com/pages/reality.htm
Not sure what to think of it regarding 1080p

Anyone read this article?:
http://www.hdtvexpert.com/pages/reality.htm
Not sure what to think of it regarding 1080p

It has been brought up in the past ... you can probably find it with a search, but in a nut shell I would just disregard it. It is off base.

This has also been pointed out before but thought it might need to be brought up again. The playstation 3 will have a blu-ray DVD which does output 1080p but it is 1080p at 24 FPS. If you read the blu-ray specs. they refer to their highest quality output as being 1080i 60 FPS. The new samy 1080p will take the 1080i 60FPS and convert it to 1080p 30FPS which is better than 1080p 24FPS.
Blu-ray specs.
HD
1920x1080x59.94-i, 50-i (16:9)
1920x1080x24-p, 23.976-p (16:9)
1440x1080x59.94-i, 50-i (16:9) MPEG-4 AVC / SMPTE VC-1 only
1440x1080x24-p, 23.976-p (16:9) MPEG-4 AVC / SMPTE VC-1 only
1280x720x59.94-p, 50-p (16:9)
1280x720x24-p, 23.976-p (16:9)
:cool:blu-ray specs. (http://www.bluraydisc.com-assets-downloadablefile-bdj_gem_application_definition_050307-12959.pdf)

That's great! Makes the purchase of this tv even more worthwhile...although I have an interesting story....I went to the Best Buy Magnolia store to check out the 6168 Friday, and they had just put up that day a 6768...tried to turn it on but it was still showing nothing (black) with the red wording right under the power button blinking. I asked them to turn it on and they said, well, it was on since this morning when we took it out for the first time, not sure what's wrong with it right now. I didn't spend enough time in the store to finally found out what or if something was wrong...maybe the lamp already, who knows. I was actually considering getting the 67 instead of the 61 for only $1k more, but the fact that that happened made me a little worried so I passed on that day...I never get those service plans...they are way too much, so maybe I will get just the 61 since it is less money and less of a risk if something goes wrong. Any thoughts? Thanks!

...I never get those service plans...they are way too much, so maybe I will get just the 61 since it is less money and less of a risk if something goes wrong. Any thoughts? When I got my set, which was cheaper than the two you are looking at, the Extended Warranty was $400 for the first four years. I thought it was worth it given that this is a new technology, and that in our area the Magnolia stores have a good reputation for service.

I would find out if the set would be service by BB or Magnolia personnel. I don't know how they handle service in areas that don't have the full sized Magnolia stores already.

Just got the 5678W. Wow! I also have a 4667 and the picture quality between 720p and 1080p is noticeably better, in every input (DVD, standard cable, HDTV, PS2). The best part is watching the Red Sox on HDTV: it's almost like being in Fenway. Now, If I can only figure out how to hook up the TV to the Denon receiver, I can get surround sound...

All,

I'm a newby here but after reading many posts and seeing the Mits fs Sammy 1080Ps yesterday I wanted to share some basic thoughts. I'm looking for correction and feedback.

Both appear to be only slightly better than the 1080i - didn't notice the ROBE on either.

If, as I was told/read, neither can accept a 1080P signal and as a result the 1080i signal is downconverted to a 540 and doubled to get 1080, isn't this in fact providing less discrete information? Granted the info will be sent to over twice as much area but if it is the same info being sent twice the 2xi resolution argument falls apart.

Overall, it looks as if there are very minor improvements versus the previous generation of sets. Without being able to get a 1080P signal in the TV I would probably say the older Mits diamondvision 1080i (next to both the new Mits and Samsung) set looked better than the new Mits 1080HP line and the Samsung 6178.

I want to and need to buy a HDTV but the new ones do not appear to have the upgrade path to true 1080p. Since I keep my sets for some time (8+ years if they continue to work) I'm finding it difficult to pull the trigger and spend $700 to $1,000 more on a set that may only be marketing hype at this point.

Thoughts and comments are appreciated.

All,

I'm a newby here but after reading many posts and seeing the Mits fs Sammy 1080Ps yesterday I wanted to share some basic thoughts. I'm looking for correction and feedback.

Both appear to be only slightly better than the 1080i - didn't notice the ROBE on either.

If, as I was told/read, neither can accept a 1080P signal and as a result the 1080i signal is downconverted to a 540 and doubled to get 1080, isn't this in fact providing less discrete information? Granted the info will be sent to over twice as much area but if it is the same info being sent twice the 2xi resolution argument falls apart.

Overall, it looks as if there are very minor improvements versus the previous generation of sets. Without being able to get a 1080P signal in the TV I would probably say the older Mits diamondvision 1080i (next to both the new Mits and Samsung) set looked better than the new Mits 1080HP line and the Samsung 6178.

I want to and need to buy a HDTV but the new ones do not appear to have the upgrade path to true 1080p. Since I keep my sets for some time (8+ years if they continue to work) I'm finding it difficult to pull the trigger and spend $700 to $1,000 more on a set that may only be marketing hype at this point.

Thoughts and comments are appreciated.

Two comments ... first, the Samsung is NOT downconverting 1080i to 540p and doubling it. It is building a 1080p signal from 1080i info. Second, looking at TV in a store only gives you an approximation of what it will look like properly setup in your home. It is difficult, impossible, to make fine determinations in the store for a number of reasons (signal, settings, lighting, etc.).

Two comments ... first, the Samsung is NOT downconverting 1080i to 540p and doubling it. It is building a 1080p signal from 1080i info. Second, looking at TV in a store only gives you an approximation of what it will look like properly setup in your home. It is difficult, impossible, to make fine determinations in the store for a number of reasons (signal, settings, lighting, etc.).

I would add that there is actually very little source material today that really is able
to take advantage of the 1080p DLPs. When H-Def DVD is available this will change.

But from time to time some really good quality source is played on a few of the
better quality HD broadcasts there really is no comparison whatsoever with 720p
sets. This is true for resolution, black level, costrast ratio, and colors.
The resulting image on such content litterally looks 3D and it appears as if
the screen has disappeared and one is looking through a window...

Two comments ... first, the Samsung is NOT downconverting 1080i to 540p and doubling it. It is building a 1080p signal from 1080i info. Second, looking at TV in a store only gives you an approximation of what it will look like properly setup in your home. It is difficult, impossible, to make fine determinations in the store for a number of reasons (signal, settings, lighting, etc.).There is no information that the Mitsubishi is down converting 1080i to 520p.

What I haven't been able to find is reliable information about what either one is doing with 1080i and 720p input.

The Samsung 1080p sets seem to calibrate very well to ISF standards.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6061619&&#post6061619

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6067770&&#post6067770

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6074893&&#post6074893

It's too soon for reports of 1080p Mitsubishi calibration.

If you plan on spending $2,000 or more on a good video processor unit to convert all inputs to 1080p then these sets probably aren't going to make it for you. For this year only one company might have 1080p HDMI input. That would be LG's 1080p LCoS model. I wouldn't count on it.

Maybe there will be news about next years models at CEDIA next week. The most likely opportunity will be CES in January.

I don't think there is a guarantee that 1080p source material will be widely available during your eight year span of planned ownership.

I would add that there is actually very little source material today that really is able
to take advantage of the 1080p DLPs. When H-Def DVD is available this will change.I don't expect it there either, but that's based on what my wife calls my "half full" personality. :o

I also don't expect that HD DVD's will be worth the cost until their petty format war is over.

Of course, I committed to the 720p route last December. :rolleyes:

I don't expect it there either, but that's based on what my wife calls my "half full" personality. :o

I also don't expect that HD DVD's will be worth the cost until their petty format war is over.

Of course, I committed to the 720p route last December. :rolleyes:

:-)

I am hoping the Tobisha "retiming" is a indication that they are reaching
agreement with the Sony camp for a single format. Which means it may
not be until the end of 2006 before we see them.

:-)

I am hoping the Tobisha "retiming" is a indication that they are reaching
agreement with the Sony camp for a single format. Which means it may
not be until the end of 2006 before we see them.Your glass is half full again. :eek:

It could also mean Toshiba's supporters put pressure on Toshiba. I'm not sure what good that will do if Sony isn't willing to compromise. It sounds like Sony's position is "give up and get out".

That's great! Makes the purchase of this tv even more worthwhile...although I have an interesting story....I went to the Best Buy Magnolia store to check out the 6168 Friday, and they had just put up that day a 6768...tried to turn it on but it was still showing nothing (black) with the red wording right under the power button blinking. I asked them to turn it on and they said, well, it was on since this morning when we took it out for the first time, not sure what's wrong with it right now. I didn't spend enough time in the store to finally found out what or if something was wrong...maybe the lamp already, who knows. I was actually considering getting the 67 instead of the 61 for only $1k more, but the fact that that happened made me a little worried so I passed on that day...I never get those service plans...they are way too much, so maybe I will get just the 61 since it is less money and less of a risk if something goes wrong. Any thoughts? Thanks!

WHERE DID U SEE THE 6768?!?!? (what state) that's very interesting.... i',m hoping you can report more on this story later :D

With the Power Buy about to end, I'm torn between going ahead with the Samsung HLR5668, and the yet-to-hit-the-street Toshiba 56HM195. I'd like to see whether the Toshiba does or does not suffer from the video lag when sending audio from DVD directly to the surround processor.

Does anyone have any opinions between these two sets? or know anything more about the new Toshiba's? The 56" Toshiba actually has a lower MSRP than the 56" Samsung. Any historical differences in quality or reliability? Hmmmm.

Your glass is half full again. :eek:

It could also mean Toshiba's supporters put pressure on Toshiba. I'm not sure what good that will do if Sony isn't willing to compromise. It sounds like Sony's position is "give up and get out".

My glass is typically 3/4 full when its not over flowing ( I tend to order
my next round before I finish the last :-)

I got a chance to see the 6168 in action today at Best Buy (Springfield Mall, VA). Nice set but the feed was lacking (it was obvious by looking at the other sets as well). I was told that they were running a 720p signal via Direct TV. I would like to see how this set would perform with a Moto box via Comcast puting out a 1080i signal.

WHERE DID U SEE THE 6768?!?!? (what state) that's very interesting.... i',m hoping you can report more on this story later :D

I was at the Best Buy in Downers Grove, IL.

I was totally surprised to see the 6768W as well, I knew they had the 6168 up, but they had just up the 67inch that Friday. I haven't gone back to that store yet to follow up, but it makes me worried and I know I won't want to cough up almost $1k just on warrantly on something like that, so that's why I'm still thinking go with the 61.

Another interesting note: the 6768w at Best Buy was priced at $5499! TV Authority has it at $5,295. I was shocked best buy was selling it for that price, considering MSRP is a lot more and that's why I started considering it. Plus!...I potentially had the opportunity to buy it with the 10% discount coupon best buy sends out in the mail...they said they would accept that, so I would save $550 bucks, get reward points, and only have to pay about 7% tax or so. So it's virtually the same price, plus I could take it home the same day and not worry about delivery, and there is no restocking fee and I have 30 days...online you would have to pay for shipping back and I can see it being a big pain in the arse. But I didn't buy it cause when it wasn't working it scared me a little and I passed on it...now I'll have to wait until best buy sends those coupons out again....any ideas when? Maybe columbus day sometime in october?

I think the TV Authority price was a lot better than $5295 if you got in on the pre-order AVS deal.

It doesn't end until Friday!

Ok, so I just got my 5078. Does anyone know of any remote codes for universal remotes that would allow me to switch to a specific input? Right now I have to hit the "Source" button multiple times until I find the right input. This sucks. I'd like to be able to set up a macro to turn on the DVD and switch to Component Input 1.

Other than this little niggle, OMG it is awesome! Me and the wife sat with our jaws in our laps watching Monsters, Inc. Now I've got my PC connected to it at 1080p and some of the WMV-HD videos are unbelievable. Of course, turns out I need a new graphics card to decode full-screen 1080p files! Ah the march of technology...

I'm an HDTV noob, so I can't tell you all how this thing compares to a mitsubishi or anything, but I can say that to my eyes, its perfect. I had an old 32" Sony Trinitron CRT. Bah! I'm now in HD heaven, and so happy to find 1080p recordings. 1080p Terminator 2 here I come!

Gratefully appreciate any help with my input problem...

Jamie

I think the TV Authority price was a lot better than $5295 if you got in on the pre-order AVS deal.

What are the preorder prices with AVS for the 6168 and the 6768 (not the 78 series)? So do I just sign up to become a member and then I can get that as one deal? Doesn't matter if you do the lifetime or not?

Thanks.

What are the preorder prices with AVS for the 6168 and the 6768 (not the 78 series)? So do I just sign up to become a member and then I can get that as one deal? Doesn't matter if you do the lifetime or not?

Thanks.

You're already a forum member. Check out the first post on this thread.
AVS/TVAuthority PowerBuy Thread for the new Samsung HLR 1080p Series DLP TVs. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=545162)

That has all the info and a link to the prices. The PB ends on Friday.

Ok, so I just got my 5078. Does anyone know of any remote codes for universal remotes that would allow me to switch to a specific input? Right now I have to hit the "Source" button multiple times until I find the right input. This sucks. I'd like to be able to set up a macro to turn on the DVD and switch to Component Input 1.

What kind of remote do you have? The discrete codes are available, see e.g. http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/files/rcfiles.cgi?area=mx700&db=devices&br=samsung&dv=television&md=hlr6178w&fc=&kw=&st=&ar=&dt=&so=&pg=1&file=mx700/devices/tv/sam-tv-slr6178w.zip

So are the only differences between the 6168 and 6178 cosmetic? I have heard the 6168 has a, Floating Screen." What exactly is a floating screen?

~Josh

Beatboy77,
Go to Samsung.com and look up the HL-R6168W. The picture shows a "floating screen." WolfpackRon.

So are the only differences between the 6168 and 6178 cosmetic? I have heard the 6168 has a, Floating Screen." What exactly is a floating screen?

~Josh
The first message in this thread has pictures. It just means the screen portion of the set is separated from the base portion by a gap that is about 1" so it floats over the base if you view the set from the front.

Ok, so I just got my 5078. Does anyone know of any remote codes for universal remotes that would allow me to switch to a specific input? Right now I have to hit the "Source" button multiple times until I find the right input. This sucks. I'd like to be able to set up a macro to turn on the DVD and switch to Component Input 1.

Other than this little niggle, OMG it is awesome! Me and the wife sat with our jaws in our laps watching Monsters, Inc. Now I've got my PC connected to it at 1080p and some of the WMV-HD videos are unbelievable. Of course, turns out I need a new graphics card to decode full-screen 1080p files! Ah the march of technology...

I'm an HDTV noob, so I can't tell you all how this thing compares to a mitsubishi or anything, but I can say that to my eyes, its perfect. I had an old 32" Sony Trinitron CRT. Bah! I'm now in HD heaven, and so happy to find 1080p recordings. 1080p Terminator 2 here I come!

Gratefully appreciate any help with my input problem...

Jamie

I have the codes for the Philips Pronto TSU3000/TSU7000, plus if you can generate your codes, I know the base Samsung codes. For example, HDMI 2 is E9. Let us know what kind of remote you have.

I am putting together an HLRxxx8 file that I am going to upload to remotecentral.com and post here.

What kind of remote do you have? The discrete codes are available, see e.g. http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/files/rcfiles.cgi?area=mx700&db=devices&br=samsung&dv=television&md=hlr6178w&fc=&kw=&st=&ar=&dt=&so=&pg=1&file=mx700/devices/tv/sam-tv-slr6178w.zip


How do you open an mxd file? :confused:

How do you open an mxd file? :confused:

That's the format used by the software for the MX-700/800/850 remotes. If you have one of those remotes, that file will give you what you need. If not, you'll need something else. Since the codes are available for this platform, I assume that they are available for others (or will be shortly). I believe that many of the codes are also shared with a variety of other Samsung TVs, so you can probably get most of the codes from files for another model.

I know several people looking at the Samsung's have also been waiting for the Mitsu units ... well, I was down at Magnolia HiFi in San Ramon (CA) today and had the chance to look at the new 62" Mitsu 1080p DLP they had on display. It was totally disappointing. As anyone following this thread knows, I spend quite a bit of time looking at and analyzing these sets ... my thoughts were echoed by the Magnolia staff. The new Samsungs were clearly better by a surprising margin, not even close. How could this happen? I know that several people were waiting to see these new sets and I would encourage you to go down and take a look.

Very interesting Bill.

Can you be more specific. Exactly how were the Samsung's better? Contrast, sharpness, color etc?

I am looking forward to hearing others comments regarding the Mitsu's as well.

Can you be more specific. Exactly how were the Samsung's better? Contrast, sharpness, color etc?I've seen two 62" models and the image was noisy from about 6'. Maybe that's what they called dithering. The DLP keeps changing colors when it can't make up it's mind.

I know several people looking at the Samsung's have also been waiting for the Mitsu units ... well, I was down at Magnolia HiFi in San Ramon (CA) today and had the chance to look at the new 62" Mitsu 1080p DLP they had on display. It was totally disappointing. As anyone following this thread knows, I spend quite a bit of time looking at and analyzing these sets ... my thoughts were echoed by the Magnolia staff. The new Samsungs were clearly better by a surprising margin, not even close. How could this happen? I know that several people were waiting to see these new sets and I would encourage you to go down and take a look.

The Mitsubishi 1080p Forum seems to be mixed as to people that have seen the Samsung 1080p's and the Mits 1080p's. Some people are saying that the Mits 52" is better than the Samsung 1080p models (as in amount of detail on HD content and better SD content displayed) and other saying it's not (showing alot of noise in the picture).

Below is the link to the forum with some of the comments:

1080p Mitsubishi Arrived Link (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=569145&page=6&pp=30&highlight=Mitsubishi+1080p)

The Mitsubishi 1080p Forum seems to be mixed as to people that have seen the Samsung 1080p's and the Mits 1080p's. Some people are saying that the Mits 52" is better than the Samsung 1080p models (as in amount of detail on HD content and better SD content displayed) and other saying it's not (showing alot of noise in the picture).

Below is the link to the forum with some of the comments:

1080p Mitsubishi Arrived Link (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=569145&page=6&pp=30&highlight=Mitsubishi+1080p)

Not mixed at all, Gazelle is full of sh!t and simply has nothing better to do
than to mislead and misdirect people. Luckily very few people take him
seriously.

The 52in. mits is very similiar in PQ to the Sammy. A number of people have
noticed that the 62 in. Mits is nowhwere near the pq of 52 in. Mits.

The Mitsubishi 1080p Forum seems to be mixed as to people that have seen the Samsung 1080p's and the Mits 1080p's. Some people are saying that the Mits 52" is better than the Samsung 1080p models (as in amount of detail on HD content and better SD content displayed) and other saying it's not (showing alot of noise in the picture).I think the noise reports have been from 62" Mitsubishi sets not 52" sets.

Not mixed at all, Gazelle is...I think you should write this kind of stuff on paper with a number two pencil. Then I think you should burn the paper and the pencil.

I've seen two 62" models and the image was noisy from about 6'. Maybe that's what they called dithering. The DLP keeps changing colors when it can't make up it's mind.


Yes, I think you are describing dithering.

What is it about the Mits that would show dithering more than the Samsung's I wonder. It could be as simple as calibration (having the brightness level set to high will tend to show more dithering).

You guys can see my comments in the Mits thread. I went to see the Mits 62628 and Sammy 6178 at two different Mag HiFi's this weekend, and the results were the same at both. The PQ on both looked very nice, but the Mits did have more noise in the picture; I described it as 'mosquito' noise, but maybe 'dithering' is the more correct term. When viewed up reasonably close (but some reported noticing from 10 ft back) the Mits screen looks like it has tiny little worms squiggling around on it (sorry, not very proper technical jargon!). I think that people that saw the ~50" sets thougth the Mits and Sammy were very comparable. This noise in the Mits might just be lack of appropriate calibration, since people at the stores really don't do anything but turn them on. It would be very nice if some of you 'pros' would stop by Mag HiFi and get permission to really fool with the settings to see if one could eliminate this noise, eg. by adjusting the sharpness, etc.

Yes, I think you are describing dithering.

What is it about the Mits that would show dithering more than the Samsung's I wonder. It could be as simple as calibration (having the brightness level set to high will tend to show more dithering).

The Mits have a natural and bright setting and come from the factory in bright mode. Maybe this is causing or adding to the noise.

Two comments ... first, the Samsung is NOT downconverting 1080i to 540p and doubling it. It is building a 1080p signal from 1080i info. Second, looking at TV in a store only gives you an approximation of what it will look like properly setup in your home. It is difficult, impossible, to make fine determinations in the store for a number of reasons (signal, settings, lighting, etc.).

The trail above questions which image on a 1080p Samsung really has more real data content, 720p or 1080i. I think this is an interesting question.

The statement above is true, ie that the Samsung sets are building 1080p image streams from 1080i data.

But how are they doing it? What algorithm are they using?

I've read elsewhere something like what the previous author wrote, basically that the conversion of 1080i to 1080p is more like a scaling of 540p to 1080p. If this is the case, the final image stream would actually contain less real data, and should be lower quality, than the 720p data scaled to 1080p.

So, it comes down to what algorithm Samsung uses for deinterlacing. In 1080i, each image is really split into two consecutive 540p images that are "overlapped" to form the complete 1080 resolution image.

What we would like to happen is for the deinterlacer to buffer the two 540p images in a pair effectively sent at 60fps, and recombine them into a single 1080p image at 30fps. I always thought that was how it worked and if so, deinterlacing video without scaling (changing the resolution) would seem to be a very trivial algorithm requiring just a bit of memory and very little processing.

But I've heard this isn't the case with many cheaper deinterlacers (like the ones in these tvs). I've heard that the deinterlacers often discard one of the two images in the pair and scale the other up to whatever desired resolution, in this case effectively scaling from 540p to 1080p. So they end up going through the same interpolater, etc. that is used for the 720p to 1080p but with even less real data (more scaling error).

Can anyone comment factually on this rather than speculatively? Any deinterlacing algorithm experts out there?

I hope this is incorrect information and I forget the source where I originally read about the Samsung deinterlacing algorithm.

Thanks,
Dan

Yes, I think you are describing dithering.

What is it about the Mits that would show dithering more than the Samsung's I wonder. It could be as simple as calibration (having the brightness level set to high will tend to show more dithering).It could be calibration.

Another possibility is that Mitsubishi went back to the six element color wheel. When Samsung first went to the seven element wheel they claimed that it would improve detail in dark scenes and reduce dithering. That had slipped my mind. :o

The fact that Samsung didn't improve the HLP5674 light engine with it's six element color wheel was one of the reasons I switched to the HLP5067. I never really checked the HLP5674 for dithering, and I don't recall complaints about it. There were a lot of dithering messages for the HLM and HLN sets. It seems to me that calibration did help.

The Mits have a natural and bright setting and come from the factory in bright mode. Maybe this is causing or adding to the noise.

The bright mode was only added for showroom floors (so I hear). I can't imagine many people would use it at home. In bright, colors aren't accurate, shadows wash, etc. Normal is very nice and you can make some minor adjustments from there.

It's really interesting to compare those bright and normal modes side by side with the competition. Look closely at the colors (whites too), shadows and detail when you do.

I just purchased a HL-R4677W from HiFi Buys in the Atlanta area this Sunday. After setting it up, everything initially looked great. However, I soon noticed that there is an approximately baseball-sized area, about 10inches in and 8 inches down from the upper left corner, that appears lighter than the rest of the screen; this is not as apparent when that area is filled with a colorful image, but if the area is black, I can definitley tell that that portion is lighter. It is especially noticeable when I am watching something that is letterboxed, because that part of the screen is blacked out. At first I thougt is was glare, or even a smudge on the screen, but that is not the case. It is there no matter what input is selected (s-video dish feed, component video dvd feed). I called samsung customer service, they said it may have some "missing pixels," and that I should return it to the store. Has anyone else had a similar problem? Any thoughts on the subject?

I called samsung customer service, they said it may have some "missing pixels," and that I should return it to the store. Has anyone else had a similar problem? Any thoughts on the subject?Who ever you talked to at Samsung was guessing and they were wrong. It's probably internal reflection and I would have the store exchange it.

yeah, I was just browsing the samsung website faq's to see if I could find any info on it, and I came across a statement about the "pixel policy" that basically said that dlp's don't actually have pixels, therefore no pixel policy. thus, the idea of "missing pixels" really doesn't seem to apply in this case.

yeah, I was just browsing the samsung website faq's to see if I could find any info on it, and I came across a statement about the "pixel policy" that basically said that dlp's don't actually have pixels, therefore no pixel policy. thus, the idea of "missing pixels" really doesn't seem to apply in this case.Stuck DMD mirrors can cause projected "pixels" on the screen to be black if the mirror is stuck off and probably "white" if the mirror is stuck on. With a wobulated chip two pixels would be effected by one stuck mirror.

Samsung does have a formal stuck mirror policy. There haven't been many stuck mirror reports and in all the cases I've read about Samsung either changed the light engine or replaced the set.

Stuck mirrors are much harder to detect with the wobulated sets because of the overlap on the screen.

This may or may not be the right thread for this comment, but I'm new to the site. I have read probably half of the posts here and the issue of lip sync seems to me to be a showstopper. There does not appear to be any foolproof way to do digital audio to the AVR and digital video to TV without the potential for sync issues. The one possibility of cycling both inputs through the TV, then digital audio out from the TV to the AVR has apparently been shown not feasible with 5.1 (only stereo is output from the TV). The exception appears to be for over the air broadcasts, which are of little interest to me.

You all are probably tired of this issue by now. I have also read the separate thread on sync issues, but there are only a few posts there and no solutions. So, at this point, I think the 6168 will come off my xmas list, unless someone has a solution that I have somehow missed.

Peace and fair winds.

There are two solutions available to the problem. One, replace your av receiver with one that has audio delay capabilities. Second, buy the Felston device. You would route your audio to the device and pick your delay. Both apparently work fine.

I would like to add that no other manufacturer has solved this problem. Some may be better than others due to how quickly then can process the video. Even the high end Qualia 006 has the problem and others that use external scalers have been dealing with this issue for years.

As the technology progresses, the video processors should get faster and the issue will go away. Or the audio codecs get more complex requiring more processing, slowing down audio as well.

There are two solutions available to the problem. One, replace your av receiver with one that has audio delay capabilities. Second, buy the Felston device. You would route your audio to the device and pick your delay. Both apparently work fine.

A varation on the AV receiver solution is to replace receiver and speakers with a Yamaha YSP-1 Sound Projector - which also features a 0-160ms delay circuit.

I would like to add that no other manufacturer has solved this problem. Some may be better than others due to how quickly then can process the video. Even the high end Qualia 006 has the problem and others that use external scalers have been dealing with this issue for years.

As the technology progresses, the video processors should get faster and the issue will go away. Or the audio codecs get more complex requiring more processing, slowing down audio as well.


Given that video is in frames and that audio is a digital stream, the problem will never go away, it may get smaller. This site http://lipfix.com/technical_details.html explains the problem and why it is endemic to all digital and digital/analog hybrid broadcasting systems. It also explains that it is not a TV set problem and that the better the set , the more likely it is that you will see it.

Lee

Also, Has anyone tried the pc VGA input at 1920X1080 @ 60 Hz? How does it look?


I have a 5078 and PC on 1920x1080@60Hz looks stunning.

I have a dishplayer 942 connected to a Samsung hlr4677 HDTV, using both the hdmi/dvi interface and component video. According to the tv manual, the component and hdmi/dvi inputs support 720p and 1080i. I currently have the dishplayer setup to 1080i. the only display options for my tv via those 2 inputs are 16x9 or 4x3 (ie, no panorama or other "special" views). However, if I set up the dishplayer to display 16x9, I get black bars on each side of the screen (no vertical letterbox bars); these are present on hd and nonhd channels; but, if I setup the dishplayer to 4x3 2x, the picture fills the entire screen. I have the tv display set at 16x9 (changing to 4x3 on the tv made no difference). Is this normal? When the picture fills the entire screen in the 4x3 2x mode on the dishplayer, is it expanded to fill the screen, and is info being cut off from each side? Does it just depend on the programming? btw, I can tell no difference between the hdmi/dvi and component inputs. Also, does it matter if I set the dishplayer format to 1080i vs 720p--I could tell no difference between the two. also, I have noticed no audio sync issues (i have the optical out from the dish reciever going to my a/v receiver). Thanks, and any input will be appreciated.

Two quick questions:

#1 - How do I configure the over/underscan on the new Samsungs?
#2 - How can I know, for sure, that I've got the over/underscan set so that I've got 1-1 pixel mapping? Or are these things independent?

Thanks!

I have a 5078 and PC on 1920x1080@60Hz looks stunning.

got any pictures you can show of this? I'm dying to see

Re Lipsync showstopper. Thanks for the comments re AVR with delay and the Felston device. I thought from some of the posts however noted that the delay was not a fixed constant, but rather seemed to vary with ???? Perhaps varied with source or input device or whatever? This means that one would have to constantly fiddle with the delay constant on the AVR or Felston. This would also not be acceptable. I have the yamaha AVR, which apparently has a fixed delay for all input devices. I am only interested in input from DirecTV and DVD. But if the delay were fixed and different between these two sources, or in particular if the delay varied, then this would not be a decent fix.

Did I miss something in all these posts?

Re the comment that this happens with all manufacturers, that may be so. However, that just makes the technology too new for general use and perhaps one should wait a year or two for processors to get fast enough for lipsync to no longer be a problem?!?

I would really like to get a 6168, so any solutions what fix this apparent showstopper would be appreciated.

Did I miss something in all these posts?Possibly you missed this point.

The video signal is slower than audio in all HDTV sets. Source material, and input devices add to the problem. The goal is to be in the center of a delay "range" that hides lip sync problems for almost all situations. Having perfect "sync" isn't going to happen any time soon. Here is a link to "sync" information.

LipFix (http://lipfix.com/technical_details.html)

An A/V receiver that allows "delay" settings for each input is better than one that has a fixed delay for all inputs. A device (dedicated or DVD etc) that allows for setting delay can help too.

There are still situations where the source goes so far out of sync that nothing can be done.

We saw lip sync problems using our old 27" CRT sets with some programs. Once in a while we see the same problems with our 50" DLP. We can probably detect the problem easier because the "lips" are enlarged on the bigger screen. :)

Since we have been using our HTPC, and a very fast graphics card, I haven't noticed any lip sync problems with the DVDs that we have watched.

Each individual probably notices lip sync problems a little differently. In our case the HTPC is fast enough that I haven't needed to add any audio delay for that input using our A/V receiver's capability.

I think a little added delay for our Cable TV input might be a good idea, but so far it isn't noticeable enough for me to figure out how the A/V receiver's remote works to set delay. :o

Re Lipsync showstopper. Thanks for the comments re AVR with delay and the Felston device. I thought from some of the posts however noted that the delay was not a fixed constant, but rather seemed to vary with ???? Perhaps varied with source or input device or whatever? This means that one would have to constantly fiddle with the delay constant on the AVR or Felston. This would also not be acceptable. I have the yamaha AVR, which apparently has a fixed delay for all input devices. I am only interested in input from DirecTV and DVD. But if the delay were fixed and different between these two sources, or in particular if the delay varied, then this would not be a decent fix.

Did I miss something in all these posts?

Re the comment that this happens with all manufacturers, that may be so. However, that just makes the technology too new for general use and perhaps one should wait a year or two for processors to get fast enough for lipsync to no longer be a problem?!?

I would really like to get a 6168, so any solutions what fix this apparent showstopper would be appreciated.

Well ... if you have rejected a cheap, comprehensive, and convenient solution like the Felston ... you still have a non-technical solution available, you can watch your new 6168 from a longer viewing distance ... say 25 feet.

<<(Snipped from another thread -Johnny Canuck)As far as I can tell (I've done a lot of reading of DLP/LCD .pdf manuals) the Samsung and high-end sony SXRD is the only one that supports the TV's native resolution (in this case 1920X1080) through either VGA or DVI and therefore is specifically designed to hookup to a PC at its native resolution!

All the other DLP/HDTV's with VGA connectors I have read like Toshiba Cinema Series, PAnasonic DLP, etc. does NOT offer computer resolutions that match the screens native resolution. In fact, most screens with VGA offer 4:3 resolutions!>>

Is this true, that the Samsung 1080p (with the SXRD) is the (only?) logical choice for HTPC users who would like to frequently use their TV as a PC monitor?

<<(Snipped from another thread -Johnny Canuck)As far as I can tell (I've done a lot of reading of DLP/LCD .pdf manuals) the Samsung and high-end sony SXRD is the only one that supports the TV's native resolution (in this case 1920X1080) through either VGA or DVI and therefore is specifically designed to hookup to a PC at its native resolution!

All the other DLP/HDTV's with VGA connectors I have read like Toshiba Cinema Series, PAnasonic DLP, etc. does NOT offer computer resolutions that match the screens native resolution. In fact, most screens with VGA offer 4:3 resolutions!>>

Is this true, that the Samsung 1080p (with the SXRD) is the (only?) logical choice for HTPC users who would like to frequently use their TV as a PC monitor?

Several people have commented on their experiences with the new Samsung 1080p units in the Samsung 1080p Owners thread. But, they are generally getting 1:1 pixel mapping at 1920x1080 with slight overscan. Althought, one recent poster indicated that they were not getting any overscan. My guess is that your results will be equal to the quality of your computer equipment and expertise.

Two quick questions:

#1 - How do I configure the over/underscan on the new Samsungs?
#2 - How can I know, for sure, that I've got the over/underscan set so that I've got 1-1 pixel mapping? Or are these things independent?

Thanks!

If you use one of the later model Nvidia GForce cards you can download the latest drivers and find over/underscan adjustments in the properties. I have 1:1 pixel mapping on my HLP5085 w/ 3% underscan dialed in. No powerstrip or third party program was necessary.

If you use one of the later model Nvidia GForce cards you can download the latest drivers and find over/underscan adjustments in the properties. I have 1:1 pixel mapping on my HLP5085 w/ 3% underscan dialed in. No powerstrip or third party program was necessary.

I actually meant under/overscan on the TV (e.g. if fed from an HD Tivo). Is there a service menu setting for this?

Regarding #2, Is the 1-1 pixel mapping only relevant when feeding from a PC?

I actually meant under/overscan on the TV (e.g. if fed from an HD Tivo). Is there a service menu setting for this?

Regarding #2, Is the 1-1 pixel mapping only relevant when feeding from a PC?

I am not aware of a specific setting that lets you do this on the television itself. I am pretty sure that when we talk about pixel mapping, it directly relates to the television being fed from a PC via VGA or DVI connections.

A friend of mine thought he had achieved 1 to 1 pixel mapping because he got the PC to fill the screen, edge to edge.... however the text was blurred and distorted. 1 to 1 pixel mapping results in filling the screen edge to edge while still having perfect resolution. The result should look no different than a regular LCD computer monitor when correct.

J

I got a new HL-R5067W to replace my borked HL-N and I am very dissappointed! The picture quality is inferior to the HL-N--primarily due to the edge enhancement of DNIe, which I cant turn off. I will ditch this set, if I can't find a solution. When I enable DNIe demo mode, I greatly prefer the non-DNIe side of the screen. The "DNIe" side looks particularyly bad with a computer desktop screen, but I also hate how it brings out the grain in movies. As described elsewhere, non demo mode is less severe, but is still completely unacceptable to me.

The DNIe section of the service menu has a bunch of settings. I recorded them and started playing with them. They are sticky settings. However, I've not found a combination that makes my screen look like the non-DNIe side of the DNIe demo mode. Surely, there must be a way!

Also, the HDMI input does not have the PC-friendly underscanning mode of my old HL-N. Only the VGA input now has this feature. I use the VGA input for my Mac mini and the HDMI for my HTPC.

To make things worse, the HL-R overscans much more than my HL-N overscanned and the picture geometry of the HL-R is terrible! The pin cushion is not only much more severe that the HL-N, but it's now top, bottom, and both sides. With the HL-N, it was just the sides.

Has anyone found a set of SM settings to return my picture to that of my HL-N, which I always ran in DNIe "off" mode? Any magic wands will be gratefully accepted. :)

Has anyone found a set of SM settings to return my picture to that of my HL-N, which I always ran in DNIe "off" mode? Any magic wands will be gratefully accepted. :)

Don't know if it's the same SM, but on the 6168, one of the last options under DNIe is simply "DNIe On/Off" - setting it to OFF did the trick on my set. It's one of the first things I did when I got my set about a week ago. I *hate* the DNIe feature and it bugs me that it's not easier to turn off.

I got a new HL-R5067W to replace my borked HL-N and I am very dissappointed! The picture quality is inferior to the HL-N--primarily due to the edge enhancement of DNIe, which I cant turn off. I will ditch this set, if I can't find a solution. When I enable DNIe demo mode, I greatly prefer the non-DNIe side of the screen. The "DNIe" side looks particularyly bad with a computer desktop screen, but I also hate how it brings out the grain in movies. As described elsewhere, non demo mode is less severe, but is still completely unacceptable to me.

The DNIe section of the service menu has a bunch of settings. I recorded them and started playing with them. They are sticky settings. However, I've not found a combination that makes my screen look like the non-DNIe side of the DNIe demo mode. Surely, there must be a way!

Also, the HDMI input does not have the PC-friendly underscanning mode of my old HL-N. Only the VGA input now has this feature. I use the VGA input for my Mac mini and the HDMI for my HTPC.

To make things worse, the HL-R overscans much more than my HL-N overscanned and the picture geometry of the HL-R is terrible! The pin cushion is not only much more severe that the HL-N, but it's now top, bottom, and both sides. With the HL-N, it was just the sides.

Has anyone found a set of SM settings to return my picture to that of my HL-N, which I always ran in DNIe "off" mode? Any magic wands will be gratefully accepted. :)

Perhaps you would be happier with an HLRxx87W or HLRxx&77W HD2+ models.

Don't know if it's the same SM, but on the 6168, one of the last options under DNIe is simply "DNIe On/Off" - setting it to OFF did the trick on my set. It's one of the first things I did when I got my set about a week ago. I *hate* the DNIe feature and it bugs me that it's not easier to turn off.

I think it turns back on when you exit the SM.

Don't know if it's the same SM, but on the 6168, one of the last options under DNIe is simply "DNIe On/Off" - setting it to OFF did the trick on my set. It's one of the first things I did when I got my set about a week ago. I *hate* the DNIe feature and it bugs me that it's not easier to turn off.

Steve, My set doesn't have a "DNIe On/Off" option. The DNIe settings I've changed are sticky, but I have no idea what magic combination will give me a picture quality like the demo non-DNIe half-screen. There are certainly enough SM DNIe settings! I'd think it could be fixed, somehow.

And yes, we're in perfect agreement--it's a terrible feature to cram down our throats and, as this forum has discussed, the demo mode is just plain stupid. I resent that Samsung wasted a remote control button on it!

UCSB,

I'll look into other models and probably the Mits too. This unit was a warranty replacement for my HL-N. I won't go into the problems I had with service calls and warranty replacement parts on the HL-N but there were many! Nevertheless, when my N was working properly, I much preferred it to this HL-R. The HL-R has a few new features, but it fails to deliver what's really important to me--PQ and two usable computer inputs. I'll have to use the "res within as res" trick with Powerstip to make the HDMI input at all usable with a computer, due to extermely high overscan. Unfortunately, my previous experiements on my HL-N and the PowerStirp trick resulted in a decrease in PQ, because the custom video mode results in scaling on the native 1280x720 to make it fit the screen. With my HL-N, I decided that the reduction in picture clarity was not worth the reduction in overscan. It's a bit like using "Wide PC" mode on the HL-N instead of "Expand." The scaling kills the PQ on 720p source, which is mostly what I watch. With the HL-R, the overscan is so bad, I have no choice.

Thanks for the reply, you guys!

Has anyone found a set of SM settings to return my picture to that of my HL-N, which I always ran in DNIe "off" mode? Any magic wands will be gratefully accepted. :)

No magic answer, but have you turned the contrast way down (10 or less) in the picture menu? My regular picture looks fairly close to the DNIe off side of the demo.

Jon

I think it turns back on when you exit the SM.

Mine stayed off even after powering off/on.

After seeing Magnolia HiFi's ad (in the weekend advertising section of the newspaper) featuring the Sammy 7178 (at a very nice price). I called to ask if they really had it. The salesman laughed, said that there was tremendous interest in this set, but that it was delayed until Oct.

No magic answer, but have you turned the contrast way down (10 or less) in the picture menu? My regular picture looks fairly close to the DNIe off side of the demo.

JonThanks, Jon, but that didn't work too well for me. Here's my fix:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6171437&highlight=crappy+cal#post6171437

Now, on to tame the overscan....(I hope)...

Dropped by Magnolia HiFi this afternoon to look at the Sammy and Mits ~60" 1080p dlp's again.

1) The Sammy still looked better than the Mits (somewhat noisy screen that makes the picture not as sharp as the Sammy); all the salemen there agreed. They said the Sammies have been selling well and that, by and large, people are very pleased with them. (They also said that they don't do any 'fiddling' with the adjustments of the sets; that are displayed 'out of box'.)

2) HLR 7178 will not appear until Oct--but the good news, its price has already dropped: it's now publically advertised at ~$500 below the price that was posted in the 'power buy' (that I presume is now mute since there is no power buy for it!)

3) Mits 73xxx also will not appear until Oct. So it seems that the two ~70" sets of these two manufacturers will come out about the same time. Hope that means good price competition. (Hope it also means that some of the 'issues' in the early 1080p sets will have been resolved.)

After seeing Magnolia HiFi's ad (in the weekend advertising section of the newspaper) featuring the Sammy 7178 (at a very nice price). I called to ask if they really had it. The salesman laughed, said that there was tremendous interest in this set, but that it was delayed until Oct.

That ad was a serious tease. I was ready to go pull the trigger on it this morning.
A friend of mine said that the Sammy 7178 does not do full resolution over the DVI port, only the VGA. Can anyone confirm this? My media center PC is a good 15 feet away from the television and I don't want crazy waves from a weak VGA cable.

That ad was a serious tease. I was ready to go pull the trigger on it this morning.
A friend of mine said that the Sammy 7178 does not do full resolution over the DVI port, only the VGA. Can anyone confirm this? My media center PC is a good 15 feet away from the television and I don't want crazy waves from a weak VGA cable.

The max resolution on the HDMI inputs is 1080i, which the TV converts to 1080p. The VGA input can take a 1080p signal. I haven't tested the 1394 ports, but I think they take a 1080p signal (not completely sure).

The max resolution on the HDMI inputs is 1080i, which the TV converts to 1080p. The VGA input can take a 1080p signal. I haven't tested the 1394 ports, but I think they take a 1080p signal (not completely sure).

How does the PC look when connected to the HDMI versus the VGA input? Are there any adjustments that can be made to the HDMI connection to auto adjust the picture as there is on the VGA input? Also are you able to have an HDMI PC session in a PIP window? It would have been nice if the VGA input supported a PIP window ...

Have any of you guys noted the posts by RLA about the dlp's at CEDIA? The link is http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13809. It sounds like RLA is a 'pro', so this may be meaningful; any thoughts?

Have any of you guys noted the posts by RLA about the dlp's at CEDIA? The link is http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13809. It sounds like RLA is a 'pro', so this may be meaningful; any thoughts?

I don't think anyone can come to really meaningful conclusions about HDTV's at a show. If there is one thing that I personally have learned the hard way in 2005, it is that even evaluating equipment in a nice store environment (Magnolia HiFi) is not really completely reliable. At a show you can see the cabinets, TV features, and possibly get a general idea of performance. IMHO, two brands can not be compared on the show floor unless one is complete junk. Comparing high performance monitors is just not possible. There are just too many variables. Individuals like RLA who come back from shows (where top performing monitors have been displayed) and make comments like they "were not impressed by ...." are just naive.

Plus, there is another fundamental, insurmountable problem ... personal taste. HDTV's do not recreate reality, they create an image. It is your response to that image that determines if you like the HDTV. That is why some people think LCD based RPTV looks better than DLP, why others think plasma is nicer, and so on. People's own personal background and aesthetic taste enter into the evaluation ... perhaps when comparing the better sets, becomes the entire evaluation. When watching TV the viewer suspends their knowledge of reality and enters into the framework of the HDTV. How people do this has a lot more to do with the viewer than the TV (remember all the great entertaiment we got from 27" sets?). The bottomline, you have to go down and attempt to evaluate these sets yourself ... no one can tell you that you will like a Mitsu more than a Sony, which may or may not work better than a Samsung. People's observations can be helpful, meaningful, and interesting ... just not reliable in making final comparisons between brands. Ever noticed how other family members may not have the same reaction to your new TV? It is the same process working right in your own family.

UCSB: Wisely stated. The quandry is--as you also noted somwhere above--is that when I saw the Mits 62628 at Magnolia I thought it did not look at good as the Sammy 6178; the screen had more noise. And then there's this report from a highly regarded 'pro'. In Magnolia I didn't have the chance to get into the Mits (I'm quite familiar with how to navigate through a Sammy menu and change settings, etc., but not so with Mits) and try to change any noise reduction, or other video settings. All these things can drastically alter the impression one gets in a showroom (at a 'show' or in a B&M), plus all the improderables that you mention. "What's a body to do?"

When the Sammy 7178 and Mits 73xxx sets finally do get out, I guess I'm just to have to devote half a day playing with them at Magnolia; hopefully the guys there will let me play with video settings, etc. And even then it will be something like the existential 'leap of faith'! Holy Moly, all for a TV!

UCSB: Wisely stated. The quandry is--as you also noted somwhere above--is that when I saw the Mits 62628 at Magnolia I thought it did not look at good as the Sammy 6178; the screen had more noise. And then there's this report from a highly regarded 'pro'. In Magnolia I didn't have the chance to get into the Mits (I'm quite familiar with how to navigate through a Sammy menu and change settings, etc., but not so with Mits) and try to change any noise reduction, or other video settings. All these things can drastically alter the impression one gets in a showroom (at a 'show' or in a B&M), plus all the improderables that you mention. "What's a body to do?"

When the Sammy 7178 and Mits 73xxx sets finally do get out, I guess I'm just to have to devote half a day playing with them at Magnolia; hopefully the guys there will let me play with video settings, etc. And even then it will be something like the existential 'leap of faith'! Holy Moly, all for a TV!

I have had my HLR5668W for about a month now ... just last night, I commented to myself that I thought I finally had it setup the way I like it. :D

All you can do is spend a few hours with each set at Magnolia and read the comments of other owners. You are familiar with the look of DLP and HD so trust your own judgement. If one set really does not seem right, search out another at a new store just to make sure that it was not defective. Probably most importantly, be prepared to walk away and rethink your approach. 71" and 73" sets are new this year and need to be carefully evaluated given your close planned viewing distance. I'm not sure that at your close viewing distances, that you are not going to see flaws in the image. Not defects with TV, but source material problems.

71" and 73" sets are new this year and need to be carefully evaluated given your close planned viewing distance. I'm not sure that at your close viewing distances, that you are not going to see flaws in the image. Not defects with TV, but source material problems.

Very good points. I view my hlp6163 from about 10 ft (and as I've stated many times, it's a great set--my wife does indeed think I've gone off the deep end to look for anything better!), and if I move up to 7.5 ft away (1.5 x the 5 ft screen diagonal) it still looks fine (even better IMO, more enveloping, and the PQ is excellent with good sources). So this is why I'm wanting a 70+"set for our normal 10 ft viewing distance (and the room can take it with no awkwardness); this will give a viewing distance about 1.6 -1.7 x screen diag, and it will be 1080p to boot. So I see no reason not to expect the PQ to be excellent with good sources; SD analog channels will, I'm sure, be noisy. And I should add: though I have posted several times that the Mits 62628 that I saw several weeks ago at Magnolia had a noisy picture, I couldn't detect the noise from more than ~5 ft away (of course I was up to 1 ft away looking for any flaw I could find). We'll see.

I got my 6768 today! I tried paying GAMECUBE on it and it SERIOUSLY lags. Does anybody have any suggestions on a way to fix it?

I got my 6768 today! I tried paying GAMECUBE on it and it SERIOUSLY lags. Does anybody have any suggestions on a way to fix it?

Others have suggested putting the TV in "game" mode... Worth a try....

Others have suggested putting the TV in "game" mode... Worth a try....

I didn't see a game mode...Is that on the menu in the scrolldown bar with "dynamic" and "movie"?

thank you both!

Its in the menu that you use for naming the inputs.

Okay i just went down and checked on my t.v. and i still can't find the game option.
I pressed menu, went to "inputs" and i didn't see anything about game mode. Could someone please give me instructions on how to get to this mode?

Thanks

I know many of us are very interested in HD DVD's for our new 1080p sets. I found this really great FAQ on HD DVD:

http://www.bitburners.com/High_Definition_DVD_FAQ/

See page 108 in the manual.


OKay so i got it on game mode and the lagging is a better (but the quality isn't so great) But now, game mode only lets me play the game in widescreen format, and video games play in fullscreen right? So now the videogame is distorted! could anybody help me fix that please? Thanks!

Sorry if this has been answered before, but I couldn't find it. Does anyone how the new 1080p Samsungs are doing the de-interlacing? What method?

And can someone give a reader's digest version of whether it does 3:2 pull-down with the 1080i, or whether that even should be a concern?

Thanks.

Wow, haven't posted in a very long time. Time to catch up on what I've missed. Only thing I've seen lately is the 1080p Sammy and Mits. Both were very nice at Tweeter but the HD feed they had didn't show off how great they looked. I must say that the 1080p version of Samsung vs their 720p is a big improvement. The brightness of the screen and the dark colors are a lot better.

I know this is a wild question, but does anyone know when the 2006 Samsung DLP tvs will be announced? (Please don't say January 1st :) )

Wow, haven't posted in a very long time. Time to catch up on what I've missed. Only thing I've seen lately is the 1080p Sammy and Mits. Both were very nice at Tweeter but the HD feed they had didn't show off how great they looked. I must say that the 1080p version of Samsung vs their 720p is a big improvement. The brightness of the screen and the dark colors are a lot better.

I know this is a wild question, but does anyone know when the 2006 Samsung DLP tvs will be announced? (Please don't say January 1st :) )

Certainly by January 5th ( first day of CES )

I've heard several people over in the Mits thread comment (on comparing Sammy and Mits 1080p's) that the Mits seemed to do better on rapid motion. Is anyone here able to confirm or refute this, by your own observations and comparisons?

Sorry if this has been answered before, but I couldn't find it. Does anyone how the new 1080p Samsungs are doing the de-interlacing? What method?

And can someone give a reader's digest version of whether it does 3:2 pull-down with the 1080i, or whether that even should be a concern?

Thanks.


I know that the Samsung deinterlaces a 1080i signal to the 1080p output ( it only excepts 1080i)
The Samsung’s also includes its latest-generation DNIe™ video enhancer
and Samsung’s Cinema Smooth Film Mode 3:2 Pull Down

Tico
tico@tavuthority.com

I've noticed the picture looks vastly different when feeding 1080i into the component inputs instead of the HDMI. It seems like half the resolution is gone on the component input, while on the HDMI input, the full 1080 resolution is there.

I've heard several people over in the Mits thread comment (on comparing Sammy and Mits 1080p's) that the Mits seemed to do better on rapid motion. Is anyone here able to confirm or refute this, by your own observations and comparisons?I spent over 1 hour at Tweeters today viewing the Mits 62628...Samsung 6178...Sony A10 and A20 I watched the Bears game and I could not tell either way...they all looked great in HD...I did see some breaking up (moving little squares in the background) when they were panning the fans in the background but that was on all of the TV's so I assume it was the source...One thing that I did check for, was for fan noise on the Mits...It was very loud...I was really surprised how loud...I can't even hear the fan on my HLR6768. I felt the Mits and Samsung were both excellent choices...Mits had a little more picture noise than the Samsung but I thought the Mits had better color. Either way both are excellent sets.

I spent over 1 hour at Tweeters today viewing the Mits 62628...Samsung 6178...Sony A10 and A20 I watched the Bears game and I could not tell either way...they all looked great in HD...I did see some breaking up (moving little squares in the background) when they were panning the fans in the background but that was on all of the TV's so I assume it was the source...One thing that I did check for, was for fan noise on the Mits...It was very loud...I was really surprised how loud...I can't even hear the fan on my HLR6768. I felt the Mits and Samsung were both excellent choices...Mits had a little more picture noise than the Samsung but I thought the Mits had better color. Either way both are excellent sets.

Joe, I just asked you for this on another thread! Thanks for your prescience!!

Samsung offered to upgrade my year-old problematic HL-P6163 to the HL-R6168 for a little over $500. Seems a bit steep to me, but they appear to be quite firm. Does this seem like a reasonable cost for the additional features to you guys?

UPDATE: Samsung CS came through with flying colors on this. After explaing my extended warranty issue to senior management (2 levels up) they asked me to send them my sales receipt. After seeing it, they relented and offered me the HL-R6168 for FREE as a replacement (saying what I paid was the same price, so suddenly they could make the free exchange). That was a few weeks ago and it just arrived today. They delivered the new 6168 and took away my 6163. SWEET! After 30 minutes of viewing all I can say so far is it is a stunning difference, though I'm not sure if it's the 1080p or the increased contrast ratio (which IS remarkable).

so does anyone know if there is a way to do game mode in fullscreen 4:3? (not widescreen)

i've had a hlr5678 for about a month and i'm loving the picture quality but i'm dealing with lip synch problems.
i had a warranty tech come to look at it and he said that it's a problem with the signal from brighthouse.
i asked him why the dvd movies also have the lag and he said that it takes the video signal longer to process than the audio.
it all sounds like bs to me.
i was planning to get a new receiver anyway and there are several models that have an audio delay built in. i'm leaning toward the denon 2105 which has up to 200ms of delay.
this seems like samsung didn't perfect the design.
why should i be required to purchase a delay device after spending $3400 on a tv ?

Hey guys at the retailers up in Canada the newest 50" Samsung DLPs are MODEL HLR5064. Are there newer 50" versions. I would hate to buy a older model if there is something better in the same size but this is all I can find.

do a search on audio delay on this thread and the other samsung threads, and in general. all newer tvs suffer from this. for once the tech was correct. it takes the tv longer to process video than it takes your receiver to process the audio.

welcome to the new age :)

i've had a hlr5678 for about a month and i'm loving the picture quality but i'm dealing with lip synch problems.
i had a warranty tech come to look at it and he said that it's a problem with the signal from brighthouse.
i asked him why the dvd movies also have the lag and he said that it takes the video signal longer to process than the audio.
it all sounds like bs to me.
i was planning to get a new receiver anyway and there are several models that have an audio delay built in. i'm leaning toward the denon 2105 which has up to 200ms of delay.
this seems like samsung didn't perfect the design.
why should i be required to purchase a delay device after spending $3400 on a tv ?

i've had a hlr5678 for about a month and i'm loving the picture quality but i'm dealing with lip synch problems.
i had a warranty tech come to look at it and he said that it's a problem with the signal from brighthouse.
i asked him why the dvd movies also have the lag and he said that it takes the video signal longer to process than the audio.
it all sounds like bs to me.
i was planning to get a new receiver anyway and there are several models that have an audio delay built in. i'm leaning toward the denon 2105 which has up to 200ms of delay.
this seems like samsung didn't perfect the design.
why should i be required to purchase a delay device after spending $3400 on a tv ?
If you want to have perfect AV sync, you need to either buy a receiver that allows you to control delay for each input or buy the Felston ($230). There must be 3000+ posts on this topic in this and the Samsung 1080p Owners thread. Whatever approach you take make sure that it can accommodate delays up to 160ms. Actual delays vary by source component, but are typically in the 60ms to 120ms range.

i've had a hlr5678 for about a month and i'm loving the picture quality but i'm dealing with lip synch problems.
i had a warranty tech come to look at it and he said that it's a problem with the signal from brighthouse.
i asked him why the dvd movies also have the lag and he said that it takes the video signal longer to process than the audio.
it all sounds like bs to me.
i was planning to get a new receiver anyway and there are several models that have an audio delay built in. i'm leaning toward the denon 2105 which has up to 200ms of delay.
this seems like samsung didn't perfect the design.
why should i be required to purchase a delay device after spending $3400 on a tv ?

I discussed the lip sync problem in depth with one of the techs at CEDIA. Supposedly, the newer sets should have the lip sync minimized internally, that is if you use the tv's own speakers for the audio portion. Outside of that, Samsung will admit that there is a problem with the sync and it will vary with equipment used. I agree with you that there should be a better answer from Samsung but at least they do admit to the problem. They supposedly have changed the manufacturer of the board that processed the video to help minimize the problem
(Faroudja to ATI, if I remember correctly). That is the best answer that I got without a solution for the A/V sync.

I discussed the lip sync problem in depth with one of the techs at CEDIA. Supposedly, the newer sets should have the lip sync minimized internally, that is if you use the tv's own speakers for the audio portion. Outside of that, Samsung will admit that there is a problem with the sync and it will vary with equipment used. I agree with you that there should be a better answer from Samsung but at least they do admit to the problem. They supposedly have changed the manufacturer of the board that processed the video to help minimize the problem
(Faroudja to ATI, if I remember correctly). That is the best answer that I got without a solution for the A/V sync.


This doesn't really help the people that already bought the current Samsung 1080p's. They should come up with some solution for the existing customers having this problem.

the change they are talking about was already made for the 1080p sets.

i don't understand why people have a hard time with this. all tvs have this problem. external scalers have been having this problem for years.

there is a reason that receivers with delays are on the market. Samsung didn't create that market. it already existed.

This doesn't really help the people that already bought the current Samsung 1080p's. They should come up with some solution for the existing customers having this problem.

Has the HLR6168W come out yet ....? Will they be cheaper than the 6178W ??
I see on the front page:

"One version, the 78 series, will have a black lacquer bezel and will be sold by higher-end retailers and custom installers. The other version, the 68 series, will have a floating screen design and is believed to be targeted at larger chain stores like BestBuy."

Has the HLR6168W come out yet ....? Will they be cheaper than the 6178W ??
I see on the front page:

"One version, the 78 series, will have a black lacquer bezel and will be sold by higher-end retailers and custom installers. The other version, the 68 series, will have a floating screen design and is believed to be targeted at larger chain stores like BestBuy."

Both the 6168 and 6178 have been out for two months. The 68 series will be about $200 - $300 cheaper, although some retailers are price matching between the 68 and 78 series. So if you find both the 68 and 78 series locally, you might ask the 78 series retailer if they will price match the 68 series price.

Both the 6168 and 6178 have been out for two months. The 68 series will be about $200 - $300 cheaper, although some retailers are price matching between the 68 and 78 series. So if you find both the 68 and 78 series locally, you might ask the 78 series retailer if they will price match the 68 series price.

Thanks but I don't see the 6168W at Best Buy, Circuit City and TV Authority has it listed as "coming soon". Any idea who has it ? What about the price that TV Auth has for members, $3,545.00.....is that pretty good ? I know my local Tweeter has the 6178 but have not checked the price yet.

Thanks.

Thanks but I don't see the 6168W at Best Buy, Circuit City and TV Authority has it listed as "coming soon". Any idea who has it ? What about the price that TV Auth has for members, $3,545.00.....is that pretty good ? I know my local Tweeter has the 6178 but have not checked the price yet.

Thanks.

Sorry, I have not been shopping price. But, I have had my set for almost 2 months. They have been in the stores here in the San Francisco bay area for about 3 months. TVA has shipped hundreds of 6168's to avsForum members, in fact, their initial PowerBuy for the 6168 has come and gone.

The 6168 is at my local BestBuy/Magnolia. It has been for a while now.

The 6168 is at my local BestBuy/Magnolia. It has been for a while now.

Thanks, I'll have to ask them at my local Best Buy. Also, which Best Buy did you see it ?....I'm north of Annapolis, about 1-1.5 hours from Woodbridge.


Thanks.

Hi,

My 3.5 months old HLR4667's stopped working suddenly today evening. When i switch on the tv
I can hear the soun but cannot see the picture. I see the knob light in the bopttom middle portion has a ligh on the" lamp" letters and the light blinks for a few times
and then stops.. I changed the source to DVD, and others and I can hear only
the sound from the source and no picture can be seen.

Did the inside lamp on my 3.5 mths (which i used occationally may be only 3
hrs each day on the average) old died suddenly? Has anyone seen this
problem? Time to call the Best buy support I think.

Any tips suggestions are welcome.

Thanks

Quick question: whats the average life of a bulb? I've heard 1 year all the way to 5. I know it depends on how much you watch but that too I've heard different numbers on the amount of hours a bulb can last for. Also, will you use the entire bulbs hours or is it something that you will notice when it is on its last leg?

Quick question: whats the average life of a bulb? I've heard 1 year all the way to 5. I know it depends on how much you watch but that too I've heard different numbers on the amount of hours a bulb can last for. Also, will you use the entire bulbs hours or is it something that you will notice when it is on its last leg?

8000 hours ... you may want to replace early to insure the best performance of your HDTV. At 4 hours per day, this would give you a little more than 5 years.

Any info/thoughts of the preferablity to leaving the set on for an evening/afternoon as opposed to say, watching football/news, turning off for dinner and then turning back on for the remainder of the day/night? Does starting the bulb affect the lifespan and if so, to what degree?

Any info/thoughts of the preferablity to leaving the set on for an evening/afternoon as opposed to say, watching football/news, turning off for dinner and then turning back on for the remainder of the day/night? Does starting the bulb affect the lifespan and if so, to what degree?
Just turn it on when you are using it and off when you are not using it; don't worry about the lamp ... a 720p lamp is $200 and a 1080p lamp is $370 (probably come down). Managing lamp use is not worth the wasted electricity and effort.

hello guys..this is my first post as u could see :P
im new to hdtv..still dont have a tv..but ive been looking at the samsungs dlp for quite a long time.. and ive always liked the one that comes with the pedestal... but now i see they came out with the new 1080p!!! amazing!!..so heres my question..is it worth getting the brand new 57" dlp with pedestal????? it looks amazing...but first i wanted to know if anybody from this forum owns one..and can talk to me bout it, hows does it look...does the 5000:1 contrast actually work? :P

thanks a lot guys!!

Gaston

8000 hours ... you may want to replace early to insure the best performance of your HDTV. At 4 hours per day, this would give you a little more than 5 years.

Every 4-5 years is nothing. If you want a good laugh, go over to the ecoustic forums and read what some people there are saying, especially this guy called Tom Bong. He's insane.

But it would be kinda nice if you didnt have to replace it.

Hi,
Just joined w. a few questions for anyone who may be able to help.
Any feelings on deciding betwen Samsund HLR 6178 vs. Sony LCoS R60XBR1?

Also, is Sammy 6168 identical to 6178?

Sorry -one more question. Any reliable large screen TV web retailers?

Is extended warranty a good idea for $400-$500?

Thanks!!!

Does anyone know whether the built-in TV Guide will be able to get listings when using a CableCard? It worked when I still had my comcast set-top, but I haven't noticed any listings since the CableCard was installed, and there weren't any settings for CableCard, nor any info about whether the TV Guide would work with the Cable Card.

I did finally put the little G-Link wand in front of the TV's remote sensor, so jumping around to different channels works fine, but still no listings.

Thanks...

SV

Does anyone know whether the built-in TV Guide will be able to get listings when using a CableCard? It worked when I still had my comcast set-top, but I haven't noticed any listings since the CableCard was installed, and there weren't any settings for CableCard, nor any info about whether the TV Guide would work with the Cable Card.

I did finally put the little G-Link wand in front of the TV's remote sensor, so jumping around to different channels works fine, but still no listings.

Thanks...

SV


The built-in TV Guide (TVGOS) worked fine with my cablecard for about 6 weeks! Yesterday, it displayed NO DATA, and did not replenish data again last night. So, yes, it can work, but . . .

Hi,
Just joined w. a few questions for anyone who may be able to help.
Any feelings on deciding betwen Samsund HLR 6178 vs. Sony LCoS R60XBR1?

Also, is Sammy 6168 identical to 6178?

Sorry -one more question. Any reliable large screen TV web retailers?

Is extended warranty a good idea for $400-$500?

Thanks!!!

That new TV won't be out for a while. That being said, it is probably much better than the DLP sets, since it has true 1920x1080 (no wobulation), and it has 3 panels (not a spinning disc).

That all being said, if you want >60", you have no choice but to get the DLP from Sammy or Mits, since Sony won't use the LCoS tech on a cheap (~$6K) 70" TV to compete with their Qualia (~$13K) line.

UCSB (Bill),

First of all, allow me to thank you for your excellent contribution to this and other forums. I have been following the posts for a while, and I always find yours very insightful and informative. Thank you.

I have been wondering about your post from page 216 for quite a while. You (correctly, IMHO) suggested that you cannot evaluate a TV in a store because their signal is split and the settings are suboptimal. That being said, how can an average consumer like me compare TVs and decide which to buy? I don't care about stats that the manufacturer may take liberties with; all I care about is PQ. So how and where can I compare PQ?

Thanks for your info.

Bobby

That new TV won't be out for a while. That being said, it is probably much better than the DLP sets, since it has true 1920x1080 (no wobulation), and it has 3 panels (not a spinning disc).

I'm not sure everyone would agree that the SXRD's that are to come out will be 'much better' than the new 1080p dlp's. Many people, me included, who have seen these dlp's right next to a Qualia thought the dlp looked better, or certainly not inferior. A lot of this is in the eye of the beholder, and I readily accept the fact that some people like one better than the other. But I think a blanket statement like you made is not at all supportable.

How can I turn off/deactivate the cable/air input?
I've got my hd-dvr connected via component and dvd via hdmi. I am not using the cable/air input. Is there a way to turn it off so I do not have to "see" it when I changing inputs? All the other inputs are 'off' unless something is actively inputting.

Thanks in advance!

Do they Samsung 1080p tv's accept true 1080i (I.E. - CBS and NBC) through both of its HDMI ports? I have searched the thread but can not get a solid answer.

~Josh

Do they Samsung 1080p tv's accept true 1080i (I.E. - CBS and NBC) through both of its HDMI ports? I have searched the thread but can not get a solid answer.

~Josh
Yes. All of the TV specs can be found in POST #1 of this thread ... they are your best source of information.

Do they Samsung 1080p tv's accept true 1080i (I.E. - CBS and NBC) through both of its HDMI ports? I have searched the thread but can not get a solid answer.

~Josh

It takes all inputs and converts them to 1080p. I don't know specifically how the conversion is performed.

UCSB (Bill),

First of all, allow me to thank you for your excellent contribution to this and other forums. I have been following the posts for a while, and I always find yours very insightful and informative. Thank you.

I have been wondering about your post from page 216 for quite a while. You (correctly, IMHO) suggested that you cannot evaluate a TV in a store because their signal is split and the settings are suboptimal. That being said, how can an average consumer like me compare TVs and decide which to buy? I don't care about stats that the manufacturer may take liberties with; all I care about is PQ. So how and where can I compare PQ?

Thanks for your info.

Bobby
Hi Bobby ... sorry it has taken me a little time to get back to you on this good question. In comparing TVs, it is critical to do all of your technical research before going to the store to look at the sets. Once at that store, you can not really count on getting any accurate information. I am not putting down the sales staff at the stores, it is just better to get accurate written information about the TVs before going to the store.

Now to answer your question: I feel that looking at TVs in the store is a critical part of deciding which TV is the right TV for you. You can tell a lot about the TV in the store setting (especially, at better retailers). You can look at the cabinet, sometimes evaluate the sound system in the set, and get a good GENERAL idea of what the picture will look like. If you really like the picture at the store, chances are very good you are going to be happy with the picture at home.

The problems with in store TV evaluations begin when we try to get beyond the GENERAL evaluation of the TV. People often come to the forum after a quick session at BB or CC with a definitive detailed evaluation of a set describing it's shortcomings. These are almost never accurate because these sets will significantly outperform your source input. You can't assume that all of the TVs are getting the same source input either.

So what can you do? The first thing is to realize that you can't fully evaluate a TV in the store. Things like audio performance, lip sync, gaming lag, tuner performance are just beyond store evaluation. But, to focus only on PQ. I used to think that if you could connect a quality DVD player to the TV via HDMI and play a collection of DVD's you could get some answers. Then I did my in depth DVD reviews earlier this year, and realized that this simply was not true either. DVD players can introduce a range of PQ issues. Even a single model of a DVD player, such as the Panasonic S97, might be good under one firmware version, but not an earlier version. A player may introduce macroblocking on one display, but not another. OK ... where does this leave us. In the end, I believe that if you can test the TV's with the same DVD player over HDMI that is the first step in the evaluation. You just need to understand that the player may be making a bigger difference than the TV on a given set. You absolutely need to understand how to use the player (picture modes, settings, BTB). Next, you need to understand the picture modes on the TV you are testing and TV's basic settings. You must look at the TV in all picture modes and make sure you know what you are looking at and what mode the TV is currently using (all settings should be to the TV defaults or a baseline that you have established and are sticking to). When comparing two sets, you need to make sure you are using comparable picture modes and settings (just do your best on this). When you think that you have the TV setup and working correctly. Use the TV freeze capability to freeze the picture, look for problems in this frozen picture. This is as close as you can get to what the TV can do. Is the picture clear, stable, artifact free (disregard source flaws in the image). Finally, go on an look at as many other sources as the store can support (HD, SD, etc.). Realize that you need to set picture mode and your settings on each of these inputs.

One final comment, when comparing two different sets rather than just trying to determine which is best. Try to decide what % of time one set is better than another. All sets have their strengths and weaknesses. It is reasonable to expect one set to outperform another on a certain percentage of material. Try to get a good mix of material (light, dark, etc.). This another problem with the casual reviewer that may watch one show and come to their conclusions. If this is done, you will get a TV optimized to that one show. The % of time approach is especially true when comparing two similar sets such as a HLR5667W and HLR5677W.

Good luck.

Why isn't the 7178 here yet?

Does anyone have any thoughts (or better yet, any inside KNOWLEDGE, e.g., from the famous Steve Panosian) about what's delaying the appearance of Sammy 71" set? Is it

1) a marketing strategy? Would seem like a mistake, if it is, since the Mits 73" sets are coming out, and people interested in this size are just going to get them.

2) Is Samsung having problems getting their light engine to light up the 71" screen, or in making 71" screens? Would seem strange, since the 67" set has been out for a month or more. And I don't think it has any problems, does it?

3) Are they delaying it in order to incorporate improvements/correct glitches in the earlier 1080p sets that have been on the market a couple of months? This would be nice, I guess.

4) Is Samsung just going to 'punt' on the 71" size, and leave the 'big screen' market to Mits and Tosh? This would seem to be a mistake. As someone said in these threads some while ago (I forget who or exactly where!--sorry), within a year or two it is mostly likely that sets > 70" will be the majority, especially of 1080p RP tv's. As we all know, it is these large sizes that 1080p really comes through, and we also know how our appetite for size grows as we get into this hobby! I discovered the AVS Forum about 1.5 years ago, when I was trying to decide between a 50" or 56" set; I wound up getting a 61" one--which I have loved!--and am now planning to move up from there (room arrangement can view from 10 to 12 ft).

Any other thoughts re the 'missing 7178'?

Why isn't the 7178 here yet?

Does anyone have any thoughts (or better yet, any inside KNOWLEDGE, e.g., from the famous Steve Panosian) about what's delaying the appearance of Sammy 71" set? Is it

1) a marketing strategy? Would seem like a mistake, if it is, since the Mits 73" sets are coming out, and people interested in this size are just going to get them.

2) Is Samsung having problems getting their light engine to light up the 71" screen, or in making 71" screens? Would seem strange, since the 67" set has been out for a month or more. And I don't think it has any problems, does it?

3) Are they delaying it in order to incorporate improvements/correct glitches in the earlier 1080p sets that have been on the market a couple of months? This would be nice, I guess.

4) Is Samsung just going to 'punt' on the 71" size, and leave the 'big screen' market to Mits and Tosh? This would seem to be a mistake. As someone said in these threads some while ago (I forget who or exactly where!--sorry), within a year or two it is mostly likely that sets > 70" will be the majority, especially of 1080p RP tv's. As we all know, it is these large sizes that 1080p really comes through, and we also know how our appetite for size grows as we get into this hobby! I discovered the AVS Forum about 1.5 years ago, when I was trying to decide between a 50" or 56" set; I wound up getting a 61" one--which I have loved!--and am now planning to move up from there (room arrangement can view from 10 to 12 ft).

Any other thoughts re the 'missing 7178'?

I think we are getting CLOSE ... 7178 is on the Samsung site this morning.