I would just add that for the average customer, evaluating a TV given all the things Bill listed, is nearly impossible. I think you should check out the specs to make sure it has the things you need, like vga, 1080p, or 2 hdmi inputs. Check the forums to see if there is a serious flaw that has been discovered, or if there is some general consensus on overall PQ. Then go to the store and make sure the TV still looks nice in person. And finally, have the TV calibrated by a recommended professional. Just add that to the price of the TV.

Why isn't the 7178 here yet?

Does anyone have any thoughts (or better yet, any inside KNOWLEDGE, e.g., from the famous Steve Panosian) about what's delaying the appearance of Sammy 71" set? Is it

1) a marketing strategy? Would seem like a mistake, if it is, since the Mits 73" sets are coming out, and people interested in this size are just going to get them.

2) Is Samsung having problems getting their light engine to light up the 71" screen, or in making 71" screens? Would seem strange, since the 67" set has been out for a month or more. And I don't think it has any problems, does it?

3) Are they delaying it in order to incorporate improvements/correct glitches in the earlier 1080p sets that have been on the market a couple of months? This would be nice, I guess.

4) Is Samsung just going to 'punt' on the 71" size, and leave the 'big screen' market to Mits and Tosh? This would seem to be a mistake. As someone said in these threads some while ago (I forget who or exactly where!--sorry), within a year or two it is mostly likely that sets > 70" will be the majority, especially of 1080p RP tv's. As we all know, it is these large sizes that 1080p really comes through, and we also know how our appetite for size grows as we get into this hobby! I discovered the AVS Forum about 1.5 years ago, when I was trying to decide between a 50" or 56" set; I wound up getting a 61" one--which I have loved!--and am now planning to move up from there (room arrangement can view from 10 to 12 ft).

Any other thoughts re the 'missing 7178'?

Well, being a person who ordered one, here's what I know:

The original ship date to tier-1 manufacturers (after they actually started shipping any 1080p's) was 9/15/05.

On 9/15/05, this got pushed to 10/7/05.

On 10/1/05, this got pushed, but appears locked in at 10/15/05.

Hasn't really been that long of a delay.

So the end of the month for receiving one seems like a good bet. I'm in the first batch from a very reputable on-line dealer, so I'll post when I hear mine has shipped (and it's coming from a pretty local warehouse, so it should be quick delivery).

UCSB & AbMagFab: Thanks for the replys!

I just talked to Magnolia in San Ramon, and was told they had a 7178 they were going to put on display, but sold it instead (hard to blame them!). Was told that they MIGHT have another one on display tomorrow, and also possibly a Mits 73"-er. So it sounds like you're right, UCSB (as usual): we may be getting very close.

SAMMY HLR-7178 HAS GLARY GLASS SCREEN!!!!!

I am shocked--totally shocked! I was at Magnolia HiFi in Emeryville (CA) this morning, and was delighted to see a Sammy 7178 on display. After playing with the remote for a while (PQ was very nice), I finally noticed that the reflections in the screen didn't look typical for a Sammy. Then when I went up close I saw (to my horror) that the screen was plate glass, all the way to the edge of the set; i.e., the usually raised bezel was also covered up by the glass. I asked if this was removeable, and the salesman said 'no', and that they were all surprised. The screen was very much like that on the Qualia 06, which I also find awful. You could see every light in the store in the 7178 screen.

Now I have pretty well-controlled light in my den, but it is not like a 'true home theater', as in a movie, with no lights whatsoever. That is the only situation in which I would consider this set. The only thing I can think of is that Samsung had problems getting a bright enough picture on the 71" screen with their 120 watt lamp, or they decided that anyone buying a 71" set was going to use it only in a totally darkened room.

So, in a way, this simplifies my choice: the 7178 is out, and I now have only to decide which of the Mits 73" sets I will get, the 73727 or 73827.

SAMMY HLR-7178 HAS GLARY GLASS SCREEN!!!!!

I am shocked--totally shocked! I was at Magnolia HiFi in Emeryville (CA) this morning, and was delighted to see a Sammy 7178 on display. After playing with the remote for a while (PQ was very nice), I finally noticed that the reflections in the screen didn't look typical for a Sammy. Then when I went up close I saw (to my horror) that the screen was plate glass, all the way to the edge of the set; i.e., the usually raised bezel was also covered up by the glass. I asked if this was removeable, and the salesman said 'no', and that they were all surprised. The screen was very much like that on the Qualia 06, which I also find awful. You could see every light in the store in the 7178 screen.

Now I have pretty well-controlled light in my den, but it is not like a 'true home theater', as in a movie, with no lights whatsoever. That is the only situation in which I would consider this set. The only thing I can think of is that Samsung had problems getting a bright enough picture on the 71" screen with their 120 watt lamp, or they decided that anyone buying a 71" set was going to use it only in a totally darkened room.

So, in a way, this simplifies my choice: the 7178 is out, and I now have only to decide which of the Mits 73" sets I will get, the 73727 or 73827.
Thanks for the info, I've updated POST #1. When they get one in San Ramon, I'll go down and take a look. I think the screen is the most difficult component on these really large sets to manufacturer defect free. Perhaps they needed the extra support. Have you confirmed the Mitsu screen type?

Thanks for the info, I've updated POST #1. When they get one in San Ramon, I'll go down and take a look. I think the screen is the most difficult component on these really large sets to manufacturer defect free. Perhaps they needed the extra support. Have you confirmed the Mitsu screen type?

I haven't seen a 73" Mits yet, but their announced info said that the 73727 and xx827's would be with the 'Samsung-type' non-glare screen (irony, huh?), but that the 73927 would have the 'protective' (i.e., glary glass) screen. But we'll see.

SD picture quality on HLR 4667 or 5067? I have tried out both the Samsung 4755 RP LCD and Sony KDF e50a10 in my living room and am not impressed with SD PQ. Actually it was ok on the 4755, but the only reasonable non-distorted mode was 4:3 and I could not leave it in this due to burn-in. HD and DVD were great, but in my area, Time Warner only offers a very limited selection of HD channels so SD is a must. Being an avid sports fan, I watch a lot of ESPN2, Classic, and multiple Fox Sports channels which only come in SD. I've searched this forum and could not locate any discussion on this, can anyone offer their experience with SD PQ on the Samsung DLPs? Also, any thoughts on the 5067 vs the Sony e50a10? I really liked the e50a10, but felt guilty about dropping 2500 (before stand and replacement bulb!) on a TV. I've seen some deals on the 5067 < 1900. Any help is appreciated. thx!

Hi Bobby ... sorry it has taken me a little time to get back to you on this good question. In comparing TVs, it is critical to do all of your technical research before going to the store to look at the sets. Once at that store, you can not really count on getting any accurate information. I am not putting down the sales staff at the stores, it is just better to get accurate written information about the TVs before going to the store.

Now to answer your question: I feel that looking at TVs in the store is a critical part of deciding which TV is the right TV for you. You can tell a lot about the TV in the store setting (especially, at better retailers). You can look at the cabinet, sometimes evaluate the sound system in the set, and get a good GENERAL idea of what the picture will look like. If you really like the picture at the store, chances are very good you are going to be happy with the picture at home.

The problems with in store TV evaluations begin when we try to get beyond the GENERAL evaluation of the TV. People often come to the forum after a quick session at BB or CC with a definitive detailed evaluation of a set describing it's shortcomings. These are almost never accurate because these sets will significantly outperform your source input. You can't assume that all of the TVs are getting the same source input either.

So what can you do? The first thing is to realize that you can't fully evaluate a TV in the store. Things like audio performance, lip sync, gaming lag, tuner performance are just beyond store evaluation. But, to focus only on PQ. I used to think that if you could connect a quality DVD player to the TV via HDMI and play a collection of DVD's you could get some answers. Then I did my in depth DVD reviews earlier this year, and realized that this simply was not true either. DVD players can introduce a range of PQ issues. Even a single model of a DVD player, such as the Panasonic S97, might be good under one firmware version, but not an earlier version. A player may introduce macroblocking on one display, but not another. OK ... where does this leave us. In the end, I believe that if you can test the TV's with the same DVD player over HDMI that is the first step in the evaluation. You just need to understand that the player may be making a bigger difference than the TV on a given set. You absolutely need to understand how to use the player (picture modes, settings, BTB). Next, you need to understand the picture modes on the TV you are testing and TV's basic settings. You must look at the TV in all picture modes and make sure you know what you are looking at and what mode the TV is currently using (all settings should be to the TV defaults or a baseline that you have established and are sticking to). When comparing two sets, you need to make sure you are using comparable picture modes and settings (just do your best on this). When you think that you have the TV setup and working correctly. Use the TV freeze capability to freeze the picture, look for problems in this frozen picture. This is as close as you can get to what the TV can do. Is the picture clear, stable, artifact free (disregard source flaws in the image). Finally, go on an look at as many other sources as the store can support (HD, SD, etc.). Realize that you need to set picture mode and your settings on each of these inputs.

One final comment, when comparing two different sets rather than just trying to determine which is best. Try to decide what % of time one set is better than another. All sets have their strengths and weaknesses. It is reasonable to expect one set to outperform another on a certain percentage of material. Try to get a good mix of material (light, dark, etc.). This another problem with the casual reviewer that may watch one show and come to their conclusions. If this is done, you will get a TV optimized to that one show. The % of time approach is especially true when comparing two similar sets such as a HLR5667W and HLR5677W.

Good luck.

I agree with your advice if your interest is in DVD movies. My interest in these sets includes High Definition images of very high quality. For these I would like to suggest an approach different from relying on the HDTV Loops and antenna feeds the stores usually have running. I have found the following very useful in evaluating these new 1080p sets.

I take to the store my HDTV DirectTV Tivo.

On this TIVO I have kept segments of High Definition shows that challenge the displays: HDNet Live camera shows, Jay Leno, HDNet Movies and CBS Sitcoms such as the those electronically produced. (The best example I have seen is the new show "Out of Practice"). In this way I bring with me my own sources, which are real world and because of the inherent quality of these Tivo HD recordings, entirely reproducible from one set to another, as well as between stores. I simply ask the salesperson to reconnect their HDMI cable (1 cable) from their store DVD source to the TIVO and I am ready to go. Note that I set the output of the TIVO to 1080i and I play only my recordings. I do not look at anything off the air.

By recording the 10 minute test pattern put out early in the morning by HDNet last year (I think it was HDNet) I also have available a fair set of color bars, a gray scale and a convergence grid -all in High Definition.

The images on some of these sets, with the controls set reasonably (with practice -as you state) can be really excellent.

kt

I agree with your advice if your interest is in DVD movies. My interest in these sets includes High Definition images of very high quality. For these I would like to suggest an approach different from relying on the HDTV Loops and antenna feeds the stores usually have running. I have found the following very useful in evaluating these new 1080p sets.

I take to the store my HDTV DirectTV Tivo.

On this TIVO I have kept segments of High Definition shows that challenge the displays: HDNet Live camera shows, Jay Leno, HDNet Movies and CBS Sitcoms such as the those electronically produced. (The best example I have seen is the new show "Out of Practice"). In this way I bring with me my own sources, which are real world and because of the inherent quality of these Tivo HD recordings, entirely reproducible from one set to another, as well as between stores. I simply ask the salesperson to reconnect their HDMI cable (1 cable) from their store DVD source to the TIVO and I am ready to go. Note that I set the output of the TIVO to 1080i and I play only my recordings. I do not look at anything off the air.

By recording the 10 minute test pattern put out early in the morning by HDNet last year (I think it was HDNet) I also have available a fair set of color bars, a gray scale and a convergence grid -all in High Definition.

The images on some of these sets, with the controls set reasonably (with practice -as you state) can be really excellent.

kt


Brilliant suggestion. The only problem is not everyone has one of these HD boxes at home. Still - if you can swing this, it would be the best way to evaluate a TV.

Burn-in on a DLP? Are you kidding?

Burn-in on a DLP? Are you kidding?

Don't know if you're referring to my post or not - I actually meant RP CRT (not LCD), which is what the Samsung 4755 is (not DLP), so yes, I was worried about burn-in while watching non-distorted 4:3 SD channels since most channels still come this way. I know RP LCD and DLP don't suffer from this, but I want to know what the quality of the SD 4:3 viewing expereince is on the DLP. I had the RP LCD (Sony A10) and it was average at best. Anyone out there watch any "normal" SD cable on a Samsung DLP and have some feedback?

How can I turn off/deactivate the cable/air input?
I've got my hd-dvr connected via component and dvd via hdmi. I am not using the cable/air input. Is there a way to turn it off so I do not have to "see" it when I changing inputs? All the other inputs are 'off' unless something is actively inputting.

I too would like an answer to this!!!

Thanks,
Bob

Anyone out there watch any "normal" SD cable on a Samsung DLP and have some feedback?

Particularly the HL-R4667W or HL-P4667W?

For those of you that are interested, TVA now has a very attractive price for the hlr7178, much better than the one they had listed for so long. Don't know if it's an official 'power buy' or not, but still very good. I would be very interested if it were not for the 'plate glass'-type screen on this Sammy.

In regards to: Anyone out there watch any "normal" SD cable on a Samsung DLP and have some feedback?

I have two Samsung DLPs (HLN617 and HLP5063), and each is connected to a COMCAST SA HD STB. SD-analog channles are so-so, but SD-digital channels are relatively good.

Bruce

SAMMY HLR-7178 HAS GLARY GLASS SCREEN!!!!!

I am shocked--totally shocked! I was at Magnolia HiFi in Emeryville (CA) this morning, and was delighted to see a Sammy 7178 on display. After playing with the remote for a while (PQ was very nice), I finally noticed that the reflections in the screen didn't look typical for a Sammy. Then when I went up close I saw (to my horror) that the screen was plate glass, all the way to the edge of the set; i.e., the usually raised bezel was also covered up by the glass. I asked if this was removeable, and the salesman said 'no', and that they were all surprised. The screen was very much like that on the Qualia 06, which I also find awful. You could see every light in the store in the 7178 screen.

Now I have pretty well-controlled light in my den, but it is not like a 'true home theater', as in a movie, with no lights whatsoever. That is the only situation in which I would consider this set. The only thing I can think of is that Samsung had problems getting a bright enough picture on the 71" screen with their 120 watt lamp, or they decided that anyone buying a 71" set was going to use it only in a totally darkened room.

So, in a way, this simplifies my choice: the 7178 is out, and I now have only to decide which of the Mits 73" sets I will get, the 73727 or 73827.

I have the HL-R6768W, and honestly - I prefer the "plate glass" to the "frosty" screen on my current Sammy. I'm considering swapping for the 71. I also had the "smudge" problem on my 67, and if the glass can help avoid that - then great!

Here is a specific question regarding the lamp. The original documents I got from Samsung showed the lamp being 120/135 watts. I thought that was what I was getting in the 6768, but the set shows no way of setting the lamp mode. Is it possible that:

1) "Dynamic" picture mode puts it into the higher wattage setting?
2) Only the 71 has this dual mode lamp and the 67 does not?

Also, believe it or not, I find my 67 does not have the brightness I expected. It is certainly very "good", and more than adequate in anything less than a sun lit room - but still not what I expected. Obviously (I guess) the smaller screen sizes in the 68 series are brighter - but that's why I thought they put the dual wattage lamp in the 6768 and 7378.

Can anyone clarify?

I have the HL-R6768W, and honestly - I prefer the "plate glass" to the "frosty" screen on my current Sammy. I'm considering swapping for the 71. I also had the "smudge" problem on my 67, and if the glass can help avoid that - then great!

Here is a specific question regarding the lamp. The original documents I got from Samsung showed the lamp being 120/135 watts. I thought that was what I was getting in the 6768, but the set shows no way of setting the lamp mode. Is it possible that:

1) "Dynamic" picture mode puts it into the higher wattage setting?
2) Only the 71 has this dual mode lamp and the 67 does not?

Also, believe it or not, I find my 67 does not have the brightness I expected. It is certainly very "good", and more than adequate in anything less than a sun lit room - but still not what I expected. Obviously (I guess) the smaller screen sizes in the 68 series are brighter - but that's why I thought they put the dual wattage lamp in the 6768 and 7378.

Can anyone clarify?

Well, maybe Sammy is smarter than I am (not surprising, since they make money!); it may very well be that many people, like you, prefer this type of screen.

Re the lamp, I believe that the 120/135 setting is automatic, i.e., it is 135 in 'dynamic' mode, and 120 in others. (I'm hoping that Mits' 150 watt lamp will overcome this dimness issue, but we'll see.)

I have two Samsung DLPs (HLN617 and HLP5063), and each is connected to a COMCAST SA HD STB. SD-analog channles are so-so, but SD-digital channels are relatively good.

Bruce

Bruce,

Is SD-analog watchable at all? What about progressive DVD?

swaggi,

I would say SD-analog is barely watchable. I don't enjoy it, and I only watch SD-analog when a show is not available on SD-digital/high def; e.g., Animal Planet, local college game, etc.

It seems like all the major channels are available on either SD-digital or the hig def channels, and I'm not attuned to shows that may only be on SD-analog.

I use an upconverting DVD player (DV-59AVi) with an HDMI <--> DVI cable and send everything to the Samsung at 720p. With a good DVD source, the picture is "close to high def"- I'm very satisfied with DVD playback.

Hope this helps,
Bruce

Anyone out there watch any "normal" SD cable on a Samsung DLP and have some feedback?
Particularly the HL-R4667W or HL-P4667W?

I am a newbie having just purchased the HLR4667W about 3 weeks ago so first let me say thanks to everyone who posts here. It was a huge help in making my decision.

For now, I am on Comcast and have the HD/DVR (Motorola 6412 -III) on analog cable extended basic with the HD programming turned on as well. I am no connoisseur but to me the SD programming looks fine. On the other hand the HD programming looks incredible.

I have looked at the HLR4667W at a few local electronics stores and to me, SD-analog looked pretty bad. But then again, their analog source was probably split so many times among all their TVs that this was probably not a good way to judge its quality.

I have looked at the HLR4667W at a few local electronics stores and to me, SD-analog looked pretty bad. But then again, their analog source was probably split so many times among all their TVs that this was probably not a good way to judge its quality.

If you have a direct cable feed into the TV for analog channel, you can FINE TUNE them on the TV. The fine tuning information is stored with the channel and this improves SD a lot. You won't see this in a store. SD looks OK on all of the 720p and 1080p sets ... not great, but OK. You will want to step up to digital SD and HD with your cable company where possible.

Hi All,


I have purchased the HL-R6168W and at the same time the OPPO player. In the meantime, I also got a cable digital receiver DCT 6200. I got the Samsung on Saturday and the OPPO just today. It seems to me that I am a bit screwed b/c I make a decision without knowing all of the facts.

It's about the TV's inputs. Having visited some sites which sell this TV, I was under the impression that, as far as digital inputs, it has a DVI and 2 HDMI. Now when I looked, it seems that the TV only has 1 HDMI and a 2-nd HDMI/DVI where you can probably go in with a DVI-HDMI cable. In addition to this, there's an audio in which is marked DVI with a left/right input.

The OPPO has only DVI out, so does the DCT 6200. It seems to me, that I can only have one of these devices hooked in through DVI-HDMI + DVI audio while I won't be able to use the other device since I have no allocated audio input. Sure, if I had one device outputing HDMI, then that would have carried video+audio, but I dont.

Now I am thinking if there's anything at all that I can do about this. Maybe an audio cable splitter, with like 4 wires which only go to 2 wires at the end of it. I can't see any other way out.

Since I don't have much experience with HDTV, on the other hand, I am thinking maybe there's something I am not seeing here and someone might help.

I would appreciate any input on this.


Thanks much,
Cristian

Hi All,


I have purchased the HL-R6168W and at the same time the OPPO player. In the meantime, I also got a cable digital receiver DCT 6200. I got the Samsung on Saturday and the OPPO just today. It seems to me that I am a bit screwed b/c I make a decision without knowing all of the facts.

It's about the TV's inputs. Having visited some sites which sell this TV, I was under the impression that, as far as digital inputs, it has a DVI and 2 HDMI. Now when I looked, it seems that the TV only has 1 HDMI and a 2-nd HDMI/DVI where you can probably go in with a DVI-HDMI cable. In addition to this, there's an audio in which is marked DVI with a left/right input.

The OPPO has only DVI out, so does the DCT 6200. It seems to me, that I can only have one of these devices hooked in through DVI-HDMI + DVI audio while I won't be able to use the other device since I have no allocated audio input. Sure, if I had one device outputing HDMI, then that would have carried video+audio, but I dont.

Now I am thinking if there's anything at all that I can do about this. Maybe an audio cable splitter, with like 4 wires which only go to 2 wires at the end of it. I can't see any other way out.

Since I don't have much experience with HDTV, on the other hand, I am thinking maybe there's something I am not seeing here and someone might help.

I would appreciate any input on this.


Thanks much,
Cristian

The first thing that I would do is call your cable company and ask them if they have a Motorola 6412 III DVR (III is for phase 3) that you can upgrade to ... the 6412 III has an HDMI output. Plus, you will get a great DVR, which is a must with HD. You will be set.

Hi All,


I have purchased the HL-R6168W and at the same time the OPPO player. In the meantime, I also got a cable digital receiver DCT 6200. I got the Samsung on Saturday and the OPPO just today. It seems to me that I am a bit screwed b/c I make a decision without knowing all of the facts.

It's about the TV's inputs. Having visited some sites which sell this TV, I was under the impression that, as far as digital inputs, it has a DVI and 2 HDMI. Now when I looked, it seems that the TV only has 1 HDMI and a 2-nd HDMI/DVI where you can probably go in with a DVI-HDMI cable. In addition to this, there's an audio in which is marked DVI with a left/right input.

The OPPO has only DVI out, so does the DCT 6200. It seems to me, that I can only have one of these devices hooked in through DVI-HDMI + DVI audio while I won't be able to use the other device since I have no allocated audio input. Sure, if I had one device outputing HDMI, then that would have carried video+audio, but I dont.

Now I am thinking if there's anything at all that I can do about this. Maybe an audio cable splitter, with like 4 wires which only go to 2 wires at the end of it. I can't see any other way out.

Since I don't have much experience with HDTV, on the other hand, I am thinking maybe there's something I am not seeing here and someone might help.

I would appreciate any input on this.


Thanks much,
Cristian

All you need to do is get 2 HDMI-DVI hybrid cables, connecting things in the obvious way; you will be fine.

Hi All,


I have purchased the HL-R6168W and at the same time the OPPO player. In the meantime, I also got a cable digital receiver DCT 6200. I got the Samsung on Saturday and the OPPO just today. It seems to me that I am a bit screwed b/c I make a decision without knowing all of the facts.

It's about the TV's inputs. Having visited some sites which sell this TV, I was under the impression that, as far as digital inputs, it has a DVI and 2 HDMI. Now when I looked, it seems that the TV only has 1 HDMI and a 2-nd HDMI/DVI where you can probably go in with a DVI-HDMI cable. In addition to this, there's an audio in which is marked DVI with a left/right input.

The OPPO has only DVI out, so does the DCT 6200. It seems to me, that I can only have one of these devices hooked in through DVI-HDMI + DVI audio while I won't be able to use the other device since I have no allocated audio input. Sure, if I had one device outputing HDMI, then that would have carried video+audio, but I dont.

Now I am thinking if there's anything at all that I can do about this. Maybe an audio cable splitter, with like 4 wires which only go to 2 wires at the end of it. I can't see any other way out.

Since I don't have much experience with HDTV, on the other hand, I am thinking maybe there's something I am not seeing here and someone might help.

I would appreciate any input on this.


Thanks much,
Cristian

... or if the Motorola 6412 III is not available ... you might need to swap out your DVD player. See POST #4 of this thread for my DVD player reviews. Depending on your budget, you might want to add the newly introduced Sony DVP-NS3100ES to the list.

I would appreciate any input on this.
Although you will be sacrificing some quality, if you can't get the 6412 III I believe that an acceptable solution is to just use component output from the cable box. I have an older DLP (HLN) so I was limited to a single DVI input to the TV (with no audio). I use that for my DVD player and use component for my 6412. I did connect the 6412 via DVI, but didn't notice a huge difference in PQ. YMMV.

Although you will be sacrificing some quality, if you can't get the 6412 III I believe that an acceptable solution is to just use component output from the cable box. I have an older DLP (HLN) so I was limited to a single DVI input to the TV (with no audio). I use that for my DVD player and use component for my 6412. I did connect the 6412 via DVI, but didn't notice a huge difference in PQ. YMMV.

I agree ... component is a viable option for the Motorola 6200. But, don't try component on the OPPO, it is a DVI only player. Component on the OPPO will be really bad.

Hi Bill,

The receiver that I have, DCT 6200 is an HD terminal. My cable co does have a Motorola 6412 but the one they have only has DVI. I know b/c they gave me that, by mistake, but I returned it yesterday.

I am currently paying $16 per month for the 6200 vs $26 month for the PVR. And it did not have the HDMI.

I think that these are my options.

1. Go with component from DCT 6200 into the TV. The image is pretty cool on HD channels, ok to pretty bad on SD. Go with DVI-HDMI + DVI Audio from the OPPO into the TV.

2. Buy an a/v system and speakers ( i have the wires installed by the builder ) and use the 1-st HDMI as DVI-HDMI + audio through the a/v for DCT 6200. This way I would get to use the HDMI port.

3. I guess I could return the OPPO, but then again I heard it performs well and for the price I paid I think it should do the job well. And then, perhaps soon they will come with a newer version with HDMI and perhaps an upgraded Faroudja chip to take care of some microblocking.


Cheers,
Cristian

Hi gakon,

Thanks so much for letting me know about component vs dvi on the Motorola receiver. I do feel much better now. And yes, for sure, it'll be dvi out from OPPO, no negoication here :-)


Cheers,
Cristian

Hi millerwill,

The problem with 2 DVI-HDMI cables is that, as you know, if you output DVI -- video -- you need to go out separatelly with audio. One of the 2 HDMI inputs is listed as HDMI/DVI and it has a DVI audio dedicated to it. But the other does not. So for the second HDMI input, you have nowehre to input audio if you have DVI at the other end. It's just HDMI and is expected it carries it's own audio. Maybe and AV receiver is the solution here, then I could output audio to the a/v.


Cheers,
Cristian

Hi millerwill,

The problem with 2 DVI-HDMI cables is that, as you know, if you output DVI -- video -- you need to go out separatelly with audio. One of the 2 HDMI inputs is listed as HDMI/DVI and it has a DVI audio dedicated to it. But the other does not. So for the second HDMI input, you have nowehre to input audio if you have DVI at the other end. It's just HDMI and is expected it carries it's own audio. Maybe and AV receiver is the solution here, then I could output audio to the a/v.


Cheers,
Cristian

I was assuming that you send the audio from both the stb and the dvd player directly to an AVR via a digital audio cable.

Two questions for everyone:

1.) With the 720p DLPs (ie HLR5067), is it worth it to get an upconverting DVD player? Can you tell the difference from a "regular" progressive scan 480p? I'm wondering if the extra ~ $75 is really worth it?
2.) Before you bought your Sammy, did you compare it with the Sony A10 series (ie KDFe50a10)? It seems to get great reviews, but it is a little more expensive than the comparable SS DLP. thoughts?

You can see the pixel structure on the A10 which I don't like. I liked the wobulated DLP set at 720P better than the A10. But neither of them even come close to the 1080P set.

Hi millerwill,

I don't have an AVR but I think I will look into buying one ASAP. The reason is that normally when I watch TV, usually late in the evening, I use wireless headsets b/c I have a 3 yr old and don't want to wake him up. But now, I am thinking I should buy an AVR and I can still use the headsets when I need to. That would probably get me going.


Thanks,
Cristian

Ok, this is weird. I'm using cable (Cablevision-Raritan -NYC Metro area) with no STB, so cable going directly into the ANT input. Perform a Auto Program scan (note, I've done this for both STD, HRC, IRC settings for both Analog and Digital, same results). So now in my channel list I have:
2
2 WCBS
3
3 WPXN
4
4 WNBC
etc. where the channels with the call letters are the digital channels. I go and delete the analog channels so I only have the digital one in my list. If I try to go to a channel by direct number (press '4' on the remote, I get "No Signal or Weak Signal". If I change channels with the CH up/dn buttons, every digital channel comes in perfectly. Only direct access doesn't work. I'd rather use the digital channels where possible because I think they are better quality in SD.

I've read the manual many times, tried the support section of Sammy's web site but can't find anything related to this issue, so I've come to the Sammy gods hoping someone can help me!

Do you think going the cablecard route will solve the problem? Any other ideas I can try?

Thanks,
Charles

Ok, this is weird. I'm using cable (Cablevision-Raritan -NYC Metro area) with no STB, so cable going directly into the ANT input. Perform a Auto Program scan (note, I've done this for both STD, HRC, IRC settings for both Analog and Digital, same results). So now in my channel list I have:
2
2 WCBS
3
3 WPXN
4
4 WNBC
etc. where the channels with the call letters are the digital channels. I go and delete the analog channels so I only have the digital one in my list. If I try to go to a channel by direct number (press '4' on the remote, I get "No Signal or Weak Signal". If I change channels with the CH up/dn buttons, every digital channel comes in perfectly. Only direct access doesn't work. I'd rather use the digital channels where possible because I think they are better quality in SD.

I've read the manual many times, tried the support section of Sammy's web site but can't find anything related to this issue, so I've come to the Sammy gods hoping someone can help me!

Do you think going the cablecard route will solve the problem? Any other ideas I can try?

Thanks,
Charles

First thing to check, the actual numbers. Are you sure that WNBC, for example, isn't really 4-1 WNBC? I would expect it to be on one of the sub channels. Remember, sub channels are entered using the "-" key on the remote.

First thing to check, the actual numbers. Are you sure that WNBC, for example, isn't really 4-1 WNBC? I would expect it to be on one of the sub channels. Remember, sub channels are entered using the "-" key on the remote.

Thanks for the quick response. I tried that, plus a few more - numbers, but no luck. However 4-0 brought me to the analog SD channel. Is it worth calling Sam tech support or are they just a waste of time?

Thanks for the quick response. I tried that, plus a few more - numbers, but no luck. However 4-0 brought me to the analog SD channel. Is it worth calling Sam tech support or are they just a waste of time?

You should give them a call. There are some rules on the operation of the TV, that are not apparent. For example, for the TV Guide you typically need the local analog channel to carry the listings. If you delete it from the line-up, TV Guide stops working. Perhaps if you delete the primary channel, the sub channels don't work correctly ... or some other rule.

Have you tried something as simple as 04, that is "zero four?" WolfpackRon.

I just bought a HLR5067W. I tried both DVD's. With HD-950 picture is better on a good DVD. Also you can hack it to get upconversion on component output saving the HDMI for my 8300HD SA box.

I just bought a HLR5067W. I tried both DVD's. With HD-950 picture is better on a good DVD. Also you can hack it to get upconversion on component output saving the HDMI for my 8300HD SA box.

Are you experiencing noticeable lip-sync problems? Have you tried it with any game consoles? I have an HLR5067W on the way myself.

So is this a fair summary

The new 1080p Sammys have little/no lag via VGA for gaming etc
VGA accepts 1080p just fine

There IS lag via componenet -on the audio - for DVD/XBOX etc.

Correct?

I just bought a HLR6168W. Is DNIe turned on by default? When I click the DNIe button it just turns the demo mode on. It doesn't look like it's turned on by default because when I turn off the demo mode it definately looks like it's in the off mode.

Well, folks, I guess it's time for me to bid adieu to the Samsung threads--just today finally made up my mind and bought the Mits 73727. I feel somewhat like a traitor, since my hlp6163 has been such a fine set. But I did want to move up in size, and I just didn't care for the glass screen on the 7178. However, I must say, the picture on the 7178 (looked at it and the Mits at Magnolia, in Emeryville this morning) looked very nice. So if you do have a room situation with little incident light, I can recommend very strongly that you give it a look.

I've learned so much from all you Samsung folks, starting over a year ago with Arun Gupta. Many thanks to all of you.

I wouldn't be able to handle the glass screen either. Enjoy the set. It should be huge.

Can somebody please tell me how to navigate around in the service menu.
I press "mute 184 and exit" and then get a Diagnostic 1 screen.
How do I get to the other screens to adjust values etc.

That isn't the service menu.

ok,
do you know how to access the service menu.

Have you tried something as simple as 04, that is "zero four?" WolfpackRon.

Wolf, what a great idea. I slapped my forehead and said "why didn't I think of that!" So I run the the bedroom and try it, but no luck. It was a great thought though. Thanks for trying to help!

With more of these things getting out there, what have people found to be the best combination of picture settings for their Samsung and Oppo? (it seems like there is a fine balance between getting good shadow detail and avoiding macroblocking).

Has anyone fooled around with the color weakness or color detail controls?

Found it

Hi, i recently bought this tv (Samsung 61" DLP™ HDTV (HL-R6167W) and I tried watching dish network satellite and the picture comes out very pixalated and not clear. Does anyone know why this is happening? I have the Dish Network 301 receiver. Do you think i need to upgrade to an HD receiver? Thanks in advance.

If that is your first big screen TV, welcome to the wonderful world of overcompression on satellite TV. DirecTV and Dish look horrible on a big screen TV because of all the compression they use to squeeze in all those shopping and local channels.

In addition the inability to disable DNIe on your Samsung leads to an overprocessed looking image (you apparently would have to go back to an HL-P model to be able to turn that off or perhaps one of the 1080p models where it is possibly defeatable in the service menus).

But, I wouldn't want to put all the blame there, most of the problem is with Dish/DirecTV. Compare that picture to an upconverted 4:3 program like the local news on an OTA HDTV channel and you'll see what NTSC could have looked like if it wasn't being butchered by the satellite provider.

Has anyone had to have the colorwheel replaced on their Samsung DLP? If so, approximatley the cost to do so?

Has anyone had to have the colorwheel replaced on their Samsung DLP? If so, approximatley the cost to do so?
Free, if it's within the first year under warranty. I had the light engine replaced on my HLN 3 times within the first 8 months, twice for color wheel noise. If I remember correctly from what the tech told me, the entire engine cost about $1500. During the third replacement, he said that Samsung was providing the color wheels separately, and they cost about $200 or $300. I don't know if the price has changed since then.

It's my luck that of course it's out of warranty. Not only do I get the whining noise, but today during the Bronco game, the colors faded in and out and the screen was all jumpy and jittery. I guess I'll be calling the TV guy tomorrow. If it's $1500 I'll buy a different TV. Doesn't seem like I should be having those kind of problems with a two year old TV.

It's my luck that of course it's out of warranty. Not only do I get the whining noise, but today during the Bronco game, the colors faded in and out and the screen was all jumpy and jittery. I guess I'll be calling the TV guy tomorrow. If it's $1500 I'll buy a different TV. Doesn't seem like I should be having those kind of problems with a two year old TV.

You can check parts cost at www.samsungparts.com. The color wheel is about $200 or less. There is a thread/post by someone that replaced the color wheel recently. If you replace it, be careful not to damage any other parts in the area, especially the light tunnel mirrors.

I'm the new owner of an HL-R5668W, connected to a DirecTV HD DVR and new upconverting Denon DVD player. All in all, I'm very pleased with the set but have run into one difficulty.

I had hoped to use the optical audio out from the Samsung but this has been problematic. I connected the DVR and DVD player via HDMI cables then attempted to use the optical out to my Rotel surround sound processor. This worked in a sense, i.e., I was able to get a signal to the Rotel, but it wasn't Dolby Digital. Rather, it was always Dolby Pro-Logic.

I went to the audio menu on the Samsung to specify Dolby Digital output, but this option is "grayed" out no matter what I do. In other words, it won't let me access this menu item and select Dolby Digital as an output.

If I connect the DVR and DVD to the Rotel processor directly, then Dolby Digital is no problem. This is obviously getting changed within the Samsung between the HDMI input and the optical output. I've written to Samsung but they say they are still working on the question (after about three weeks of waiting).

Has anyone else had this difficulty?

Other than this, I love the set. I bought it locally in Madison, Wisconsin, and am very impressed with the sharp picture quality and great contrast ratio. RBE is minimal (actually, I've yet to notice it.)

I was going to buy a 720p set but this one was about $600 more.

Mark

I'm the new owner of an HL-R5668W, connected to a DirecTV HD DVR and new upconverting Denon DVD player. All in all, I'm very pleased with the set but have run into one difficulty.

I had hoped to use the optical audio out from the Samsung but this has been problematic. I connected the DVR and DVD player via HDMI cables then attempted to use the optical out to my Rotel surround sound processor. This worked in a sense, i.e., I was able to get a signal to the Rotel, but it wasn't Dolby Digital. Rather, it was always Dolby Pro-Logic.

I went to the audio menu on the Samsung to specify Dolby Digital output, but this option is "grayed" out no matter what I do. In other words, it won't let me access this menu item and select Dolby Digital as an output.

If I connect the DVR and DVD to the Rotel processor directly, then Dolby Digital is no problem. This is obviously getting changed within the Samsung between the HDMI input and the optical output. I've written to Samsung but they say they are still working on the question (after about three weeks of waiting).

Has anyone else had this difficulty?

Other than this, I love the set. I bought it locally in Madison, Wisconsin, and am very impressed with the sharp picture quality and great contrast ratio. RBE is minimal (actually, I've yet to notice it.)

I was going to buy a 720p set but this one was about $600 more.

Mark

The Samsung only accepts 2 channel audio over the HDMI, so it can not pass through 5.1 audio. You are going to have connect your DVD player directly to your Rotel processor. You may notice a lip sync problem in this configuration and you will have to add a delay to input on the Rotel (perhaps 100 ms.).

I went to the audio menu on the Samsung to specify Dolby Digital output, but this option is "grayed" out no matter what I do. In other words, it won't let me access this menu item and select Dolby Digital as an output.


Although the TV cannot accept surround sound through its HDMI input, it will deliver Dolby 5.1 through its optical audio output when the source is Antenna 1 or 2 or Cablecard. When I'm watching a live cable program with 5.1 on my 5668 connected to my DVR by HDMI and I care about the sound, I just use the Cablecard instead.

how noticable is the sound lag on the samsungs?

i am seriously looking at the 56", but the sound lag talk has me also looking at the jvcs...

how noticable is the sound lag on the samsungs?

i am seriously looking at the 56", but the sound lag talk has me also looking at the jvcs...

There is PLENTY of info on the lag on these TVs in this thread. Summary:

1) There IS a lag when you have sound going through an AVR.
2) This lag is not only present on Samsungs although everyone seems to complain that they have more of an issue than other TVs.
3) It is easy to work around the lag by using a DVD player with delay feature or using the delay feature on many recent vintage AVRs.
4) If AVR/DVD player delay feature doesn't work or doesn't exist, there is a dedicated delay device manufactured by Felston which will ELIMINATE the audio lag completely.

Good luck.

Lag is something you are going to have to evaluate with your own ears. I have yet to experience lag on my hd-tivo connected via hdmi to the tv and optical to my avr. Same thing for the oppo dvd player also connected via hdmi to the tv and optical to my avr.

both set to 1080i.

Can't wait to see what the 2006 models have to show. Anyone else?

I've been quite busy over the past two months and the purchase of an HDTV got away from me. Plus I'm thinking I'll wait until the 2006 models and also to see how the Xbox 360 and PS3 handle the 1080p sets.

Can't wait to see what the 2006 models have to show. Anyone else?

I've been quite busy over the past two months and the purchase of an HDTV got away from me. Plus I'm thinking I'll wait until the 2006 models and also to see how the Xbox 360 and PS3 handle the 1080p sets.

I am hoping to see some 70+ in. RPs that incorporate the new TI .95 in. DMD.
It is rumored to have a panel CR of 12,000:1 ( note this is without a dynamic
iris ).

CES 2006 is going to be one hell of a show :-)

how noticable is the sound lag on the samsungs?

i am seriously looking at the 56", but the sound lag talk has me also looking at the jvcs...

Not noticeable in general, but slightly possible when the tv is doing resolution up-conversion from different sources.

If you are using an hdmi input into the set from a newer dvd player, you will have no lag. If you use component input, no noticeable lag. If you use composite or s-video on an older non-progressive scan dvd player, you "might" have noticeable lag.. but only if you look hard for it.

The FAQs on www.samsung.com have this in the Q/A as well.

Im confused about the new Samsung DLP products release. I see either of these models mentioned sometimes.

HL-R6768 and the HL-R7178.

Other then size, these appear identical. Is there any technical or cosmetic difference between these TVs?

Thanks!

The 6768 is the 'floating screen' design, with a matte black bezel around the screen and the standard non-glare Sammy screen. The 7178 has the shiny black bezel of all the xx78 models, but unlike all the other Sammies, has a 'plate glass'-type screen. I found the PQ of the 7178 to be excellent, but you need to look at to make sure any external light in your room will not cause unwanted glare. The electronics, light engine, and all other 'innards' of all the xx68 and xx78 sets are supposed to be identical.

Other then screen size, is the HL-R6768 the same as the HL-R7178?

Im confused about the 2005 models. Maybe the 6768 is last years model? I cant find any spec difference (other then size 67" vs 71") and there is a significant difference in price, $4100 vs $6300.

Any tips appreciated.

THanks!

Other then screen size, is the HL-R6768 the same as the HL-R7178?

Im confused about the 2005 models. Maybe the 6768 is last years model? I cant find any spec difference (other then size 67" vs 71") and there is a significant difference in price, $4100 vs $6300.

Any tips appreciated.

THanks!
That is because there is no spec difference. Both are 2005 1080p models. The price difference is just becuase of the size and the screen on the 71".

The 6768 is the 'floating screen' design, with a matte black bezel around the screen and the standard non-glare Sammy screen. The 7178 has the shiny black bezel of all the xx78 models, but unlike all the other Sammies, has a 'plate glass'-type screen. I found the PQ of the 7178 to be excellent, but you need to look at to make sure any external light in your room will not cause unwanted glare. The electronics, light engine, and all other 'innards' of all the xx68 and xx78 sets are supposed to be identical.

Very good. Thanks! What does the term PQ mean that you mention?

I have a 57" 3:4 Sony now with very reflective screen and glare IS a problem sometimes (during day and table lamps) so I have just lived with the glare. The thing about the larger size screen at 67" will give me the same size 3:4 picture I enjoy now with the Sony 57", when the Samsung is viewed in 3:4 mode (most of my TV watching).

Since they are the same the $2000 difference between the 67" and the 71" will ultimately drive me to the 67" I think. I expect the 71 screen is meant to improve visual accuity of the picture? The 67" I saw in the store was extremely fine so I expect the subtle improvements of a more accurate screen would not matter much.

The 67" is about $4100 delivered (when doing a casual online search).

Thanks again!

PQ = Picture Quality

Sometimes goes by IQ, Image Quality.

And, ratio is almost always done as 4:3/16:9, width then height, not vice versa. :)

Other then screen size, is the HL-R6768 the same as the HL-R7178?

Im confused about the 2005 models. Maybe the 6768 is last years model? I cant find any spec difference (other then size 67" vs 71") and there is a significant difference in price, $4100 vs $6300.

Any tips appreciated.

THanks!

All of the 2005 Samsung DLP SPEC's are in the first POST of this thread. The only difference between the 67" and 71" is the cabinet and the screen (71" has a shiny, reflective screen).

All of the 2005 Samsung DLP SPEC's are in the first POST of this thread. The only difference between the 67" and 71" is the cabinet and the screen (71" has a shiny, reflective screen).

Ahhh...I see that now. Missed it as I got stuck on the first set of 78 part numbers.

thanks again

It was suggested to me that the 1080P TVs including the Samsung 6768 dont accept 1080P inputs but only convert inputs to the 1080P and i would need to wait until next years models for that feature. Is this true for the Samsung 6768?

Seems a shame not to take advantage of the 1080P DVDs when they come out in a few years.

thanks!

It was suggested to me that the 1080P TVs including the Samsung 6768 dont accept 1080P inputs but only convert inputs to the 1080P and i would need to wait until next years models for that feature. Is this true for the Samsung 6768?

Seems a shame not to take advantage of the 1080P DVDs when they come out in a few years.

thanks!

The Samsung xx68/78/88 RPs are some of the few sets that do take 1080p as
an input ( vga ).

Yes I just looked at some WMV HD 1080P discs I got along with T2 Extreme(finally got it to work) at 1080P. They looked excellent over the VGA at 1080P. I also tried a few minutes of Unreal Tournament at 1920x1200P( no setting for 1920x1080P)that looked excellent also.

Hi All,

I just bought my HL-R5678W, below $3,000. Those that wants to buy a TV..etc hurry up to Good Guys. They are going out of business, I bought my in San Jose, Almaden store. In Tully they have a Demo on display, I bought mine in a brand new box.

Aswomw PQ, no lag...this TV is the bomb. Quality at home was a big difference from the store compare to home. I realize in the store they run crap signal to the high end TV so they can clear out their old model on purpose. I just hook the TV up last night and watch it all night didn't go sleep until 3 in the morning. My wife said this is the best choice I have made my whole life..lol.

Hurry up to Good Guys!!!!! Going out of business.

My wife said this is the best choice I have made my whole life..lol.


Wow, she must be wearing a HUUUUUUUUUUUUUGE diamond if she's cool with you spending near $3k on a TV :)

well I guest I save $1,000 so she cool, any recomendation on a Sony DVD player model "DVP-NS3100ES". I'm plannig to pull the trigger if it's $350 buck. Anyone try out this model yet.

well I guest I save $1,000 so she cool, any recomendation on a Sony DVD player model "DVP-NS3100ES". I'm plannig to pull the trigger if it's $350 buck. Anyone try out this model yet.

Where are you planning on buying the 3100? I have a NS975V and it is a great match with the HLRxxx8W's. I would expect the 3100 to be even better.

For my comments on the NS975V: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5892463&&#post5892463

Does the 3100 output 480i over HDMI like the 975 does?

My TV Guide only displays "No listing avail" for the past two weeks. Hooray. Now, has anyone figured how to eliminate it completly? Samsung HL-r5667W. Thanks

Where are you planning on buying the 3100? I have a NS975V and it is a great match with the HLRxxx8W's. I would expect the 3100 to be even better.

For my comments on the NS975V: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5892463&&#post5892463

Do you know how the Sony DVPNS70H might compare to the NS975V for use with a Samsung TV?

I'd like to try out an upconverting player from a local vendor that accepts returns in case I don't see a significant improvement over my Pioneer 563a. I haven't found such a vendor that carries the NS975V but I have found one that has the NS70H. I'm planning on purchasing and using this with an HLR-6167.

thanks for any comments

--Don

Is there any way to check how many hours usage the DLP bulb has used? I read somewhere about a "serice menu," but I can't find it.

Do you know how the Sony DVPNS70H might compare to the NS975V for use with a Samsung TV?

I'd like to try out an upconverting player from a local vendor that accepts returns in case I don't see a significant improvement over my Pioneer 563a. I haven't found such a vendor that carries the NS975V but I have found one that has the NS70H. I'm planning on purchasing and using this with an HLR-6167.

thanks for any comments

--Don

The 70V and 90V do not compare to the 975V. There is a thread over in the STD DVD area that talks about DVD for the Samsung 1080p sets and one owner bought and tested the 90V with disappointing results. I would pass on both of them.

Here is the thread and post: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6362779&&#post6362779

My TV Guide only displays "No listing avail" for the past two weeks. Hooray. Now, has anyone figured how to eliminate it completly? Samsung HL-r5667W. Thanks

Same here, Tv guide keeps popping up everytime I turn on the tv and it doesn't even show any listings either.

someone mentioned that if you disable pbs, you don't get the listings downloaded. search the thread for specifics.

I recently purchased a samsung hlr5078w. I am a technology novice, so I appreciate the discussion on this thread ( the portions which I understand). This is my question, I have read that you should hire someone to professionally calibrate the set, but I think the picture is great right now. Is this really necessary? Will it look even better? Thanks.

Hi, I purchased a HLR6164W and its amazing.

Can someone tell me what this means?
Automatic Digital Format Conversion System is compatible with 1080i and 720P HDTV formats, 480P and 480i.
Display Format: 720p

So does this mean that my TV will not display in true 1080i?
Does this make a difference?

I posted this somewhere before before and no one answered so I guess I posted in the wrong forum.

Should I purchase an extra bulb for my Samsung 6164W?
Will Samsung be making these for many years or decades to come?
I'm worried that they will stop making them in a few years and I will be stuck with a TV that doesn't work.

So does this mean that my TV will not display in true 1080i?
Does this make a difference? Your TV is a 720p display. It will convert 1080i to 720p. Will you notice it? Very unlikely.

I recently purchased a samsung hlr5078w. I am a technology novice, so I appreciate the discussion on this thread ( the portions which I understand). This is my question, I have read that you should hire someone to professionally calibrate the set, but I think the picture is great right now. Is this really necessary? Will it look even better? Thanks.

From I am reading in forums is yes it is making a difference.And 1 person had thiers calibrated to find out there was a problem with a setting that probably would have went unnoticed.That in in its self,to have some person explain and trouble shoot while calibrating is worth it.And the calibrators post in these forums.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=559872&page=233&pp=30

FYI, Tweeter has a sale on the Samsung HLR-5078W for $2,999 with a free upconverted DVD player after rebates.

I got my new 46" Sammy set up fine today so far (no current HD)...D* through S-Video, DVD through components. I'm getting Comcast installed Tuesday for HD enjoyment and had a question as I wait to enjoy HD. I know HD is broadcast in 16:9 and everything else is 4:3. So, when I turn to my HD channels via a dual-tuner HD-DVR, will my tv fill out the screen? And go back to 4:3 (black side bars) on regular channels?

So, when I turn to my HD channels via a dual-tuner HD-DVR, will my tv fill out the screen? And go back to 4:3 (black side bars) on regular channels?Yes, as long as the HD channel is actually broadcasting HD. HD local channels may provide network shows in HD, but most of the day their content is SD, so that should be 4:3.And go back to 4:3 (black side bars) on regular channels?Yes.

Gakon...thanks for the help. What should I use on my menu settings under video? Keep it at 4:3 and the TV's smart enough to switch back & forth?

Under "video" for what? I'm afraid I only have an HLN, and there is no "video" selection on the TV's menu. If you're talking about your DVD player or cable box, those should be set to widescreen or 16:9, since that's the type of TV you have.

does anyone has a good pict,tint,contrast setting for a 61 inch samsung dlp i'am tried of trying to do it myself.

Do you know how the Sony DVPNS70H might compare to the NS975V for use with a Samsung TV?

I'd like to try out an upconverting player from a local vendor that accepts returns in case I don't see a significant improvement over my Pioneer 563a. I haven't found such a vendor that carries the NS975V but I have found one that has the NS70H. I'm planning on purchasing and using this with an HLR-6167.

thanks for any comments

--Don


The Sony DVPNS70H is hooked up to my HLR5087W.

Out of the box, this DVD player coupled with the HLR5087W looks fantastic. I am very picky about image quality and can see pixels and artifacts all the time. However this Sony, coupled with an HDMI Monster cable look better than any HD video I've ever seen. I tested all my favorite movies, Star Wars A New Hope, Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom, Phantom of the Opera (for my wife), Superman the movie. I saw no jaggies, artifacting, or anything at all. In fact I have never seen a TV/DVD combo work as good in my life. My best friend has a newer model Sony Plasma which cost three times as much as my DLP and he was blown away by the image quality. Samsung's Dnie, I have to say, really makes the image look a whole lot sharper and crisper. I really love it and will leave it on all the time now. You can do a side by side comparison and you can see the big difference it makes. As for the DVD player, I am not going to change it because IMHO, it is perfect. (I haven't noticed the shifting issue but will mention it if I see it) Peace

Im thinking about buying the HL-R5688W.

How will it fair in gaming? Im going to primarly play on my ps2, and hook it up to my computer for now.

Once the ps3 comes out, ill hook it up to that.

Will there be a delay or bluring like previous samsung models?
Any help would be appreciated, im going to order my first HDTV set this week :)!!

I posted this somewhere before before and no one answered so I guess I posted in the wrong forum.

Should I purchase an extra bulb for my Samsung 6164W?
Will Samsung be making these for many years or decades to come?
I'm worried that they will stop making them in a few years and I will be stuck with a TV that doesn't work.

The bulbs are made by Philips, Osram and Ushio. I am not concerned about the replacement supply.

I won't have this set for decades. :)

Hi, I purchased a HLR6164W and its amazing.

Can someone tell me what this means?
Automatic Digital Format Conversion System is compatible with 1080i and 720P HDTV formats, 480P and 480i.
Display Format: 720p

So does this mean that my TV will not display in true 1080i?
Does this make a difference?

I could not find any info on a "HLR6164W" but the HLR6167W is a 720p set while the 6168 is a 1080p set.

So yes, you 6167 set will not display 1080i natively but will convert it to 720p.

Some people see a difference, some don't.

Is this 50" Samsung dlp model number HL-R5064W any good does it suffer from game lag as I will be playing alot of 360 on it if I buy it. I thought this would be the best place to ask about this tv. Is it any good ? Is there any game lag ? Does it have an big problems ? Hows the viewing angles ? And whats the expected bulb life ?

Thanks guys

I recently purchased a samsung hlr5078w. I have read that you should hire someone to professionally calibrate the set, but I think the picture is great right now. Is this really necessary? Will it look even better? Thanks.

Kind of like asking if your car needs a front-end alignment. If it is out of spec, yes. If it is running well, not likely.

I have been through a few adjustments on my set and they were out just a little. If many items were out "just a little", it could make a difference in your enjoyment of the picture.

Has focus moved out during transportation? Perhaps. Are the electronic settings out of maximum tweak? Maybe.

I've seen many adjustments on my set put at the factory default setting. Could the picture improve with some tweaking. Yes. But by how much is the question.

A lot depends on how picky you are. If you love the image you are getting now, I'd save the money. If you have issues with grey scale tracking or focus or tilt, get someone in.

Is there any way to check how many hours usage the DLP bulb has used? I read somewhere about a "serice menu," but I can't find it.
Enter the service menu with care.

Turn set off. Press: Mute-1-8-2-POWER on the remote one at a time. The set will turn on with the service menu after it loads the file.

Go to "Option" and Lamp Life is the 5th one down.

I'd suggest you don't change any settings. After seeing the time, turn off the TV. When you turn it back on again, it will come up normally. I think all your user settings will be reset to default when you enter the service menu so you may want to write those down.

Hi all,

Does anyone know how to remove the base of Samsung HLR 6167 TV, or does anyone have a service manu? Thanks

Hi all,

Does anyone know how to remove the base of Samsung HLR 6167 TV, or does anyone have a service manu? Thanks

Look under the FAQ's in POST #1 of this thread.

I'm gonna pull the trigger in less than a week and i wanted some pros and cons on these sets. my preference is in this order:

1 Sony kdfe50a10

2 JVC hd52g786

3 Samsung hlr 5067w

Any info would be helpful, i've been researching since september, and i just wanted the opinions of some owners of each set. Thanx in advance.

BTW: these forums are excellent!

I'm gonna pull the trigger in less than a week and i wanted some pros and cons on these sets. my preference is in this order:

1 Sony kdfe50a10

2 JVC hd52g786

3 Samsung hlr 5067w

Any info would be helpful, i've been researching since september, and i just wanted the opinions of some owners of each set. Thanx in advance.

BTW: these forums are excellent!

Your best source of info on the 5076 is in the HLRxx67W Owners Thread. The thread will give you a complete picture of the set and allow you ask specific questions of current owners.

Click Here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=537675

Well the saga continues with my 6768 needing service after 1 month.
I originally called 800- Samsung and got the standard issue we'll contact you within 3 days. What I got was the Authorized repair shop telling me they will not come to my area and good luck. So I called CS again then overnight this other supposed authorized dealer is miraculously in my town. I really don't live in the boonies, this is decent size town with lots of people, however not a sprawling metroplis but fairly modern. So I talked to the repair shop gentleman and after our conversation decided that I would rather the Three Stooges work on my set than this guy. I even drove to the location where his supposed shop was and took a couple photos. I emailed the photos to the warranty dept and haven't heard anything about it. I wish I knew an email address for someone higher up the chain because this would certainly be embarrassing for Samsung. So this is your authorized repair center, this is your bid of confidence. So we the consumers know we will get our repairs done by competent technicians. I'm not trying to insult anyone, but I just spent 47 hundred clams and it doesn't come easy these days. I think it's not too much to ask to get a competent repairman/repair center.

This "repair" center is an older house (he lives/rents here) with a rotten shed and a bunch of old TVs in a carport with exposure to the weather. This guy has been there for a while. I will attach a couple pictures.

I called back to Samsung and griped about it. They said that the only registered authorized dealer is in Holiday FL which is the original rep who told me forget it and it's too far to drive. When I got home later this even I get a message stating that now another service center has been found which is another one of those mom and pop places. I guess my gripe is it looks like there isn't much credibility in these repair shops. They seem to have promoted them to authorized DLP projection specialists overnight. My fear is that I get someone who ends up making things worse off than before. Maybe I should find out what it takes to become certified and start working on these things myself.

I have ordered a service manual and if I could get the parts from samsung I'd fix the dam thing myself.

So to all those prospective buyers you have been warned. If you buy from a brick and mortar you have a better chance for an exchange but for those of us who purchased online and now have dead Samsungs we might as well flip a coin or play lotto because you're gambling with your hard earned cash.

Any advice or information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Well the saga continues with my 6768 needing service after 1 month.
I originally called 800- Samsung and got the standard issue we'll contact you within 3 days. What I got was the Authorized repair shop telling me they will not come to my area and good luck. So I called CS again then overnight this other supposed authorized dealer is miraculously in my town. I really don't live in the boonies, this is decent size town with lots of people, however not a sprawling metroplis but fairly modern. So I talked to the repair shop gentleman and after our conversation decided that I would rather the Three Stooges work on my set than this guy. I even drove to the location where his supposed shop was and took a couple photos. I emailed the photos to the warranty dept and haven't heard anything about it. I wish I knew an email address for someone higher up the chain because this would certainly be embarrassing for Samsung. So this is your authorized repair center, this is your bid of confidence. So we the consumers know we will get our repairs done by competent technicians. I'm not trying to insult anyone, but I just spent 47 hundred clams and it doesn't come easy these days. I think it's not too much to ask to get a competent repairman/repair center.

This "repair" center is an older house (he lives/rents here) with a rotten shed and a bunch of old TVs in a carport with exposure to the weather. This guy has been there for a while. I will attach a couple pictures.

I called back to Samsung and griped about it. They said that the only registered authorized dealer is in Holiday FL which is the original rep who told me forget it and it's too far to drive. When I got home later this even I get a message stating that now another service center has been found which is another one of those mom and pop places. I guess my gripe is it looks like there isn't much credibility in these repair shops. They seem to have promoted them to authorized DLP projection specialists overnight. My fear is that I get someone who ends up making things worse off than before. Maybe I should find out what it takes to become certified and start working on these things myself.

I have ordered a service manual and if I could get the parts from samsung I'd fix the dam thing myself.

So to all those prospective buyers you have been warned. If you buy from a brick and mortar you have a better chance for an exchange but for those of us who purchased online and now have dead Samsungs we might as well flip a coin or play lotto because you're gambling with your hard earned cash.

Any advice or information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

It is unrealistic to think that your TV repairman is going to be living in a mansion ... :D ... why not have him come out and hear what he has to say. Samsung has their own employees and trucks in larger urban areas (and they are great by the way), but can't cover the entire country. If there are B&M's in your town or AV stores, why not call them and see how they handle Samsung repairs ... perhaps they are using your local repairman and getting good results.

It is unrealistic to think that your TV repairman is going to be living in a mansion ... why not have him come out and hear what he has to say.

I don't expect him to live in a mansion I don't care where he lives. I would however expect that he might have a dedicated somewhat clean workspace to conduct business out of and not his livingroom /kitchen. I spoke with this guy on the phone and he didn't impress me with his knowledge. Like I said I'm not trying to offend anyone and I'm no expert but I would rather have someone who has experience with these new sets than someone who doesn't. I know he hasn't worked on these sets just by talking to him.

I think anyone should have the right to question the competence of who will be making repairs on your car your TV or whatever it might be. There is someone I would trust to work on this set and I will be talking to them tomorrow to see if they can be a certified repair center.

Just a thought, so when he takes my set and stores it in that carport to work on it and meanwhile the birds and rodents have made thier cozy home in it and the mositure has ruined the electronics who should I complain to then. I don't want something like that to happen, thats what I'm trying to prevent.

Im sure Jim wont appreciate you posting pictures of his house and street address.
I suppose in some ways, he may appreciate it after all, it may be his ticket to the mansion (that of course depending on your net worth).




Well the saga continues with my 6768 needing service after 1 month.
I originally called 800- Samsung and got the standard issue we'll contact you within 3 days. What I got was the Authorized repair shop telling me they will not come to my area and good luck. So I called CS again then overnight this other supposed authorized dealer is miraculously in my town. I really don't live in the boonies, this is decent size town with lots of people, however not a sprawling metroplis but fairly modern. So I talked to the repair shop gentleman and after our conversation decided that I would rather the Three Stooges work on my set than this guy. I even drove to the location where his supposed shop was and took a couple photos. I emailed the photos to the warranty dept and haven't heard anything about it. I wish I knew an email address for someone higher up the chain because this would certainly be embarrassing for Samsung. So this is your authorized repair center, this is your bid of confidence. So we the consumers know we will get our repairs done by competent technicians. I'm not trying to insult anyone, but I just spent 47 hundred clams and it doesn't come easy these days. I think it's not too much to ask to get a competent repairman/repair center.

This "repair" center is an older house (he lives/rents here) with a rotten shed and a bunch of old TVs in a carport with exposure to the weather. This guy has been there for a while. I will attach a couple pictures.

I called back to Samsung and griped about it. They said that the only registered authorized dealer is in Holiday FL which is the original rep who told me forget it and it's too far to drive. When I got home later this even I get a message stating that now another service center has been found which is another one of those mom and pop places. I guess my gripe is it looks like there isn't much credibility in these repair shops. They seem to have promoted them to authorized DLP projection specialists overnight. My fear is that I get someone who ends up making things worse off than before. Maybe I should find out what it takes to become certified and start working on these things myself.

I have ordered a service manual and if I could get the parts from samsung I'd fix the dam thing myself.

So to all those prospective buyers you have been warned. If you buy from a brick and mortar you have a better chance for an exchange but for those of us who purchased online and now have dead Samsungs we might as well flip a coin or play lotto because you're gambling with your hard earned cash.

Any advice or information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

I've been bouncing back and forth between this thread and the Toshiba DLP Owners thread. There seems to be a lot of talk regarding the longevity of the bulb on the Tosh DLP and how difficult it has been to get replacements. Are any of the Sammy's having the same problem with regards to how quickly the bulb burns out? It seems the Tosh's are getting about 2500 hours before needing to be replaced.

I could not find any info on a "HLR6164W" but the HLR6167W is a 720p set while the 6168 is a 1080p set.

So yes, you 6167 set will not display 1080i natively but will convert it to 720p.

Some people see a difference, some don't.



The 6164W set is only available in Canada.

I've been bouncing back and forth between this thread and the Toshiba DLP Owners thread. There seems to be a lot of talk regarding the longevity of the bulb on the Tosh DLP and how difficult it has been to get replacements. Are any of the Sammy's having the same problem with regards to how quickly the bulb burns out? It seems the Tosh's are getting about 2500 hours before needing to be replaced.

This is the 6000 hour lamp used in the Samsung:

Manufacturer: Philips Lighting
Lamp Power: 120 Watts
Lamp Current: 2.0 Amps
Lamp Voltage: 65 Volts (Ignition - 5kV)
Cap: Screw Lugs
Bulb Finish: Hard Dichroic Cold Mirror
Bulb Type: PAR-21 Borosilicate with front glass
Overall Length:
Arc Gap: 1.0 mm
Electrodes: Solid tungsten
Atmosphere: Argon + bromine
Luminous Flux: 7000 lm
Luminous Efficacy: 58 lm/W
Colour Temperature & CRI: CCT : 7600K CRI : Ra 57
Chromaticity Co-ordinates: CCx : 0.298 CCy : 0.311
Rated Life: 6000 hours
Factory: Turnhout, Belgium

Your mileage may vary.

This is the 6000 hour lamp used in the Samsung:

Manufacturer: Philips Lighting
Lamp Power: 120 Watts
Lamp Current: 2.0 Amps
Lamp Voltage: 65 Volts (Ignition - 5kV)
Cap: Screw Lugs
Bulb Finish: Hard Dichroic Cold Mirror
Bulb Type: PAR-21 Borosilicate with front glass
Overall Length:
Arc Gap: 1.0 mm
Electrodes: Solid tungsten
Atmosphere: Argon + bromine
Luminous Flux: 7000 lm
Luminous Efficacy: 58 lm/W
Colour Temperature & CRI: CCT : 7600K CRI : Ra 57
Chromaticity Co-ordinates: CCx : 0.298 CCy : 0.311
Rated Life: 6000 hours
Factory: Turnhout, Belgium

Your mileage may vary.


So is it safe to assume that everyone is getting at least 5000 hours from their original bulbs?

So is it safe to assume that everyone is getting at least 5000 hours from their original bulbs?

Nope. That would be nice if that was a gaurantee but there isn't. Your mileage will vary due to many factors, the biggest of which may very well be the number of on-off cycles as well as power fluctuations or powerloss. If you are watching the set and lose power the cool-down cycle won't happen and the bulb will suffer and perhaps die. I was able to get over 3500 hours on the first bulb before it went. I have since bought a UPS just for the set so that when the power goes out I have enough juice to shut it down properly.

Another thing about the estimated life is that it is usually based on an ideal. That being that the total life of the bulb is based on it being turned on and left on continuously before failure, which is not how they are used in the real world.

Just had a HL-P4667W Samsung DLP delivered. Superb picture! HOWEVER - At the store I was under the impression I was buying a HL-R4667W. Although the price was excellent for a HL-R, did I get suckered? What is the difference between the 2004 HL-P4667W and the 2005 HL-R4667W? Thanks.

No internal HD tuner and it's last years model.

Just had a HL-P4667W Samsung DLP delivered. Superb picture! HOWEVER - At the store I was under the impression I was buying a HL-R4667W. Although the price was excellent for a HL-R, did I get suckered? What is the difference between the 2004 HL-P4667W and the 2005 HL-R4667W? Thanks.
The first post in this thread has all of the details for the HLR4667W. You can compare those to your HLP4667W. The HLR4667W will outperform the HLP4667W. But, basically unless you paid something like 1/2 the HLR4667W price you were taken. Just return it for a current model.

Hey guys I am looking to purchase the HL-R4266W tomorrow but not 100% sure if it's the right choice. I will be using it mostly for DVD movies and XBOX360. What I like about it is the 1280x720 native resolution, so at 720p, the 360 should look great.

I'm not too educated on HDTV broadcasts though. Do they usually come in at 720p or only 1080i? I see this set doesn't support 1080i, so I don't want HDTV broadcasts to look bad.

Thanks!

EDIT: To clarify, this is the model I am looking at:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7253447&type=product&id=1115366829183

Hey guys I am looking to purchase the HL-R4266W tomorrow but not 100% sure if it's the right choice. I will be using it mostly for DVD movies and XBOX360. What I like about it is the 1280x720 native resolution, so at 720p, the 360 should look great.

I'm not too educated on HDTV broadcasts though. Do they usually come in at 720p or only 1080i? I see this set doesn't support 1080i, so I don't want HDTV broadcasts to look bad.

Thanks!

EDIT: To clarify, this is the model I am looking at:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7253447&type=product&id=1115366829183
Hi, if the HLR4667W will fit in you environment, I would recommend stepping up to the 46" set. The differences between the 4266 and 4667 are described in POST #1 of this thread. Essentially, the 4667 has additional features and a nicer screen which will give you a nicer image. The set does support both HD formats 720p and 1080i, both are displayed in the TV's native resolution of 720p. HD broadcast will look great. You have some options on how to configure the XBox 360 to work with the TV (component input or VGA input --- another reason to step up to the 4667!!!!). Your best approach would be to search the Samsung 720p Owners thread for other owners using the XBox 360 for tips.

One thing that most people experience after stepping up to HD is that they wish that they went with a larger set, to avoid this problem make sure that you carefully consider the 4667 and 5067.

Good luck with your purchase.

This is my first time posting in the samsung thread, almost all of my posts have been in the SXRD thread. Ok here we go, I received my third replacement SXRD yesterday and i am officially fed up, I want to like the SXRD so much! but it looks like three strikes and your out! :( Each set was worse than the original set's, major color uniformity issue, green, purple, and blue hues all over the place, and shows up on the active image. Ok, i had to let that out!


This brings me to why i am posting here, I spoke with Kevin Miller yesterday evening, for all who do not know who he is, he is a ISF technician, he recommended that i go with the samsung, which brings me here, i was originally waiting for the 6168 to come out, and when it finally came out, i found out about the SXRD, i have never owned a samsung product and have always owned sony products, so i decided to hold off for the SXRD, which in turn ends up being a big mistake. Can some of the current owners of the 6168 put up some pictures of there set after calibration, i would greatly appreciate it. I would also like to know what the difference between the 6168 and 6178 are, from the looks of it, i think it is just the look of the tv, being that the 6178 has the shiny bezel, not sure if there is a difference in the screen itself, can someone tell me if i am correct.

Thanks a bunch. :)

This is my first time posting in the samsung thread, almost all of my posts have been in the SXRD thread. Ok here we go, I received my third replacement SXRD yesterday and i am officially fed up, I want to like the SXRD so much! but it looks like three strikes and your out! :( Each set was worse than the original set's, major color uniformity issue, green, purple, and blue hues all over the place, and shows up on the active image. Ok, i had to let that out!


This brings me to why i am posting here, I spoke with Kevin Miller yesterday evening, for all who do not know who he is, he is a ISF technician, he recommended that i go with the samsung, which brings me here, i was originally waiting for the 6168 to come out, and when it finally came out, i found out about the SXRD, i have never owned a samsung product and have always owned sony products, so i decided to hold off for the SXRD, which in turn ends up being a big mistake. Can some of the current owners of the 6168 put up some pictures of there set after calibration, i would greatly appreciate it. I would also like to know what the difference between the 6168 and 6178 are, from the looks of it, i think it is just the look of the tv, being that the 6178 has the shiny bezel, not sure if there is a difference in the screen itself, can someone tell me if i am correct.

Thanks a bunch. :)
The only difference between the 68 series and 78 series is the cabinet design. Many people had posted detailed reports after their sets were calibrated in the 2005 Samsung 1080p thread. But, to summarize, Samsung 1080p DLP are probably the most accurate HDTV you can buy ... from a calibration perspective. The 1080p thread is here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=559872&page=1&pp=20

Hi experts,

I'm trying to set up a new HLR-5656W (C) from Costco. I have a large antenna for broadcast TV in my attic and the signal runs down to my TV through a coax cable. The Samsung refuses to recognize any digital channels; in fact, I cannot view anything unless it is in 'Cable' mode instead of 'Air.' My theory is it does not attempt to use the HD tuner when in Cable mode, however I don't know why my channels don't show up in 'Air' mode?

I have previously set up a Mits 52525 in this exact spot with the same cable and everything, and it had no problem picking up HDTV over the air.

Help me get digital broadcasts onto my new TV!

Thanks very much,
ploo

p.s. if you need any more info let me know. The set is about 2 hours old.

What type of antenna do you have and how far from the transmitters are you? The antenna should be one manufactured specifically to receive digital signals. Others have had little success in receiving digital signals on an attic-mounted antenna, so that is the first problem. I mounted my antenna on the roof and am about 30 miles from the transmitters, with reasonably good line-of-sight, and reception is darn near perfect on a 5067.

I am unsure of the type of antenna and my proximity to the stations. However, just yesterday, the exact same connection gave me digital tv on a Mitsubishi (52525) that I also got from Costco. Unfortunately, the lamp failed on that TV the same night I got it...so I guess I'm having some bad luck here.

I've tried autoprogramming the channels using STD, HRC, and IRC settings, to no avail. Again, I believe the issue is that my channels only show up when the TV is set to 'Cable' but not when set to 'Air' so the TV is not using its HD tuner. The exact same wiring on the exact same antenna gave me digital reception on a TV just yesterday.

I live in the Dallas area and I am positive the signal is more than strong enough.

Any ideas? What are those 3 different formats in the autoprogram settings, anyway? STD, HRC, and IRC? Is it possible to look up which is used in my area. The Mitsubishi found the digital channels on its autoprogram...

Thanks
-ploo

What settings did you use to autoprogram the television? Cable/Air, and STD/HRC/IRC?

What type of antenna do you have and how far from the transmitters are you? The antenna should be one manufactured specifically to receive digital signals. Others have had little success in receiving digital signals on an attic-mounted antenna, so that is the first problem. I mounted my antenna on the roof and am about 30 miles from the transmitters, with reasonably good line-of-sight, and reception is darn near perfect on a 5067.

I'm an idiot - I didn't read the back of the set - ANT-1 (Cable) and ANT-2 (Air)...plugged the coax into ANT-2 and voila, Lost in all its HD glory.

However, I noticed significant pincushioning on the left and right "black bars" when the material wasn't filmed in native 16:9 ratio. I poked around the Picture menu but didn't see any geometric adjustments. Is it possible to fix this pincushioning? I'm not sure I can tolerate it...

HLR-5656W (Costco version)

ploo

I'm an idiot - I didn't read the back of the set - ANT-1 (Cable) and ANT-2 (Air)...plugged the coax into ANT-2 and voila, Lost in all its HD glory.

However, I noticed significant pincushioning on the left and right "black bars" when the material wasn't filmed in native 16:9 ratio. I poked around the Picture menu but didn't see any geometric adjustments. Is it possible to fix this pincushioning? I'm not sure I can tolerate it...

HLR-5656W (Costco version)

ploo
Most of the sets are experiencing some degree of this problem. Exactly how much does is bow inward (.0825", .125", .25") at it's maximum? There isn't an adjustment in either the user or service menus. You may wish to ask this question in the HLRxx56W owners thread to see if other owners are experiencing the same problem.

is there any actual image quality differences between the 4266w and the 4667w? I know one of you kind folks said go to the first post so I did, and number one said that the 4266w doesn't have the super fine screen. Well, nowhere can I find that info on samsungusa.com, so I was wondering if there is a confirmed report of noticable image quality differences betweent the 42 incher and the 46. Thank you. P.S., I don't care for cablecard guide or whatever i got a cable box, i dont care about VGA since my laptop has an s-video out, and i dont care about IEEE since I can use the composite out on my camcorder. So the main thing is the size(obviously), but 42 is big enough for me already so I was wondering if it would be really beneficial to get the 46, in terms of image quality.

[QUOTE=tjpark1111]is there any actual image quality differences between the 4266w and the 4667w?

Go to the Samsung product page (I am not yet able to post hyperlinks here yet)

Then click on "Download Spec Sheet" on the upper-right hand navigation pane. The last page of this .pdf will show you the difference between the 42 and 46.
Given the price point of each model, your money is better spent on the 46!

Good Luck

yeah, I already know the differences as directed by the first post of this page..... The thing I am suspicious of is the *IMAGE QUALITY* differences between the 4 models, especially the 42 inch and the 46 inch. I can't justify paying several hundred more for features I won't use, and some bs thing on the spec sheet that says "no" for ultra fine pitch screen on the 4266w but 1.555mm for all others. That could be some bs and both of them could have almost no perceivable differences in image quality. I wouldn't be asking this question if I could demo in the store and have them side-by-side.(impossible)

Just read the posts on the sxrd problems and the guy saying wants a 6168.I have had two grand wega 20 series and then samsung 6168 and now ordered sxrd 60.
The grand wegas at leas the 60 seemed to have too much SDE but it might have been SSE and black /gray was not right with me not good enough.I then got the samsung 6168..Black grey seems better than the 20 series wegas but started noticing the rainbows on movies and they really bug me now on dark movies especially,don't notice them on games.I can't play most games on the samsung though as it has very annoying and noticeable lag especially bad on xbox games not quite as bad on my 360 games it seems. Possibly as the xbox games are upscaled more not sure why but had to dump the set. Now got sxrd on order but am worried after hearing of your experiences.If I see weird colors when watching hockey or whatever it will be going back and guess get a
plasma or big lcd non projection as I can afford. I have heard of some guys with sxrd having problems and many who say no problems..some people maybe just don't notice things that others do.
But three sets in a row thats not looking good. I didn't hate the samsung no screen door,didn't even think the SSE was bad but the rainbows and bad game lag are just too annoying to keep it. I would have been very mad if got stuck with it.

No problem with both my Xbox 360s on the VGA input. No lag. Only it's limited to 720P, no 1080i output on the VGA on the 360. I hope they will enable 1080P output on the Xbox360 at somepoint. The SSE effect looks the exact same on the SXRD sets to me. It's just as good or bad. I see it on all th esets with those types of screens. But the alternative is much worse, that's one of th ereasons I can't stand plasma sets. i may as well have a mirror in front of me. Reflections are bad enough on the shiny black bezels on some sets, like the 78 series and the SXRD sets.

Has anyone had an ISF calibration wiht their Samsung DLP? I have the HL-R5067W and am seriously thinking about it, but I don't know exactly what I should be expecting and what exactly will be performed. I've worked through DVE, but my colors are off, which is something I can't get over. I have several other questions that are in the owners thread of my TV model, but am posting here to see if anyone else has had their TV calibrated. Thanks!

Hi,

I have some questions about recording from firewire output on the HL-R4xx7W series. I came across a review of the HL-R5668W in the magazine "The Perfect Vision". Quoting from the article:

"I attempted to make a recording on an RCA DVR, .... The HL-R5668 had no problem recognizing the RCA DVR, and the set was able to play and fast-scan any of the recordings I had previously stored on it. However, the Samsung would not allow me to record any new cable content on the DVR. Instead, it displayed an on-screen notice that the content was copy-protected. This occurred with my local digital-broadcast channels (terrestrial channels that are rebroadcast on digital cable) as well as premium content such as HBO. Copy restrictions are prohibited on rebroadcast channels, so that couldn't have been the problem.
"I finally learned from Samsung that the HL-R5668 does not have a PID (Program Identifier) filter. This filter is essential for recording digital-cable signals, which carry two complete HD channels in the same 6MHz bandwidth as single-channel over-the-air broadcasts. A program ID filter allows only one channel to pass through the FireWire cable to the recorder, which can't record two channels at once. ... The Samsung rep I spoke with assured me that digital recordings of terrestrial broadcasts can be performed, but I didn't try it."

So, my questions come down to:
1. Does the problem of not being able to record digital cable channels also occur with the HL-R4XX7W series?
2. If I use an antenna to recieve channels OTA, will I have the same problem?
3. Ultimately, I'd like to use mythtv to record from the FireWire output of the TV. Is there any hope of doing that with this TV?
4. Has anyone on this list actually recorded from the FireWire output--what are your experiences?

Thanks,

Todd

I just received my HLR5067W and I was hoping to connect the TV to my Denon 3806 receiver using only an HDMI cable. Unfortunately, any attempt to use a source with less than 720p resolution gives me "Not Supported Mode" on the TV, and I have to connect the two via component cables. Everything seems to work fine with component, but I expected to be able to keep the signal digital as much as possible.

I've been searching on this for about an hour now, and I can't find anything in the (useless) TV manual or online about what resolutions are supported over HDMI for this TV. The discussion of the 5078 here (1080p) specifically mentions that it supports 480i->1080i over HDMI, but there's nothing listed for the 5067.

Am I stuck using component cables, or is there some setting that I'm missing?

Thanks,
Rob

EDIT: Sure enough, the receiver can query the TV for what HDMI resolutions it supports and 480i is the only one that's missing. That seems like an odd (and quite frustrating) omission, unless I'm missing something.

Just returned my 5678 today. The lag for games was too much and I didn't want to run it through the VGA, which results in a blurry picture. It's too bad as it really does have a good image. I'd say the Samsung 1080Ps and the SXRDs are the two best images as far as brightness, no noise, etc. And I've tried my 360 (along with movies) on lots of sets. Toshiba 1080P, Mits 1080P, latest Panasonic DLPs, etc. And the two former models were much better.

So I'm waiting for CES to see if there are any huge announcements, then I'm probably leaning towards a 60" SXRD.

For those that are interested, I've started a new thread to discuss the 2006 Samsung DLP models.

It can be found here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6852836&&#post6852836

[QUOTE=colemanr]I just received my HLR5067W and I was hoping to connect the TV to my Denon 3806 receiver using only an HDMI cable. Unfortunately, any attempt to use a source with less than 720p resolution gives me "Not Supported Mode" on the TV, and I have to connect the two via component cables. Everything seems to work fine with component, but I expected to be able to keep the signal digital as much as possible.

Am I stuck using component cables, or is there some setting that I'm missing?

Thanks,
Rob

My 6168 will accept 480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i from the DirecTV Tivo on the HDMI. Perhaps the problem is with the Denon???

My 6168 will accept 480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i from the DirecTV Tivo on the HDMI. Perhaps the problem is with the Denon???

That's a 1080p set, though, and mine's a 720p/1080i. Based on the stated specs for the new 1080p models, I suspect that they changed this behavior for them. I have an email in to them about my set, but when I connect my HR10-250 directly into the 5067 and select 480i, I get a "Not Supported Mode" message on the screen.

Grrr...

My local Costco started carrying the HLR5662. I haven't been able to find any info on the 62 series. Does anyone know what it is? Costco lists the contrast at 1500:1. Does this mean that the HD2+ chip is used in this model? The list price is Cdn$2799. Thanks for any info.

My local Costco started carrying the HLR5662. I haven't been able to find any info on the 62 series. Does anyone know what it is? Costco lists the contrast at 1500:1. Does this mean that the HD2+ chip is used in this model? The list price is Cdn$2799. Thanks for any info.

OK, I found the manual on Samsung's Download site, but of course, there is no info about the DLP chip or the colorwheel used in this model. Mainly I'd like to know if this is better or worse than my current HLP5063. I'm having problems with my HLP and I'd like to know if the HLR is better, or if I should wait a while, until the 1080p models become cheaper.

OK, I found the manual on Samsung's Download site, but of course, there is no info about the DLP chip or the colorwheel used in this model. Mainly I'd like to know if this is better or worse than my current HLP5063. I'm having problems with my HLP and I'd like to know if the HLR is better, or if I should wait a while, until the 1080p models become cheaper.
Wait for 2006 models ... they may be out as early as April/May with further decreases in price. Your current 5063 is probably equivalent to the new 62 series (both have a contrast ratio of 1500:1, for example).

Been a while and I recall forum rules don't allow posting info on price or where I am looking so if I'm wrong, please reply and I'll fill in the details.

I need a bedroom tv. Have a Samsung 50" DLP from the original powerbuy in 2002. Don't recall the model number. A major online retailer is offering a HL-R5067W for what appears to be a very solid price. Question is - is this superior to my original 50" set?

If so I would put the new purchase in the main room and my older set into my bedroom.

Please advise.

All you veteran Microdisplay owners, please vote on lamp life here;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=629175

I'm looking around, and I don't see many impressions on the HL-R5688W DLP.. Does anyone have this unit?

I'm looking around, and I don't see many impressions on the HL-R5688W DLP.. Does anyone have this unit?
Try this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=559872&page=1&pp=20

I just got my SamSung DLP HLR4667W today.

It is the single biggest dissapointment in my entire life.
I thought I did enough research (2wks) by going to stores, checking online reviews, talking to people. Somehow through all of that NO ONE mentioned to me how bad regular TV looks.

Ontop of that a 46" is entirely too big for my apartment, but that's my own fault. I guess I got carried away. I've been in the Army overseas for 4 years and being back in the states with the kind of consumerism availble I guess it kind of went to my head.

I was REALLY excited about this TV.

I went out and purchased an upconvert DVD player (cheap toshiba) and a HDMI cable and tested a bunch of movies.

The picture quality with the DVD is pretty good, but I'm not convinced it's amazing.....though I am very impressed with some movies like the Good, the bad, the ugly, Star Wars, etc. But I'm sure this is largely due to the fact that it's on a huge screen.
The really bad thing is that at 16:9 movies don't use the whole screen. ALLLLLL that wasted space! What did I need a 46" T.V. for?

When I saw regualr cable on that TV I nearly went nuts. I thought for SURE it would look at least as good as my CRT, but man what a drop in quality.
And HDTV? what, a whole whopping 20 channels most of which I don't watch anyway? And at $16.00 more a month? But I knew I wasn't getting HDTV.

PS2.....
ANOTHER huge dissapointment. I even bought component cables and sadly, I am not happy with the picture. It is not crystal clear, it's just...BIG. I haven't tried it with normal cables, but if it looks worse than now, I'll probably just put the PS2 away.

The REALLY sad thing is that I bought it online and have no way of returning or exchanging it.

I should have forgot all about this new DLP craze and went ahead and bought a regular high quality widescreen TV that was smaller in size.
I would have been very happy I think especially since regular TV and PS2 games would've looked fantastic compared to this overpriced SamSung paperweight.

Tomorrow is Saturday and I plan on doing a WHOLE bunch of testing. I'm going to fine tune pictures on channels, swap out VCRs and DVD players as well as their cables, swap out cables for PS2, read every bit of the manual, call Amazon and see about an exchange perhaps (though I doubt very seriously this will work). I might even set up HDTV JUST to get SOMETHING out of this Frankenstein.

Man, the whole experience pains me deeply. It's not the money by any means and I even saved about $700.00 - $1,000.00 (depending on where you buy), it's the fact that I thought I was ushering in a new era of entertainment and I feel hoaxed, lied to, cheated and most of all....foolish.

If there's anything anyone can do for me, advice, links, possible options, please find it in your goodness to help me. If nothing else help out a fellow American who served his country with distinction, bravery and honor.

e-mails are totally welcome

Sincerely,
Eddy

I will be upgrading from my Sammy 1280x720 HLN DLP to either
a hi des DLP (1920x1080) or a 1920x1080 LCOS (JVC 61FH96). I
like many things about the DLP, but the big problem with my current
set is the famous "clay faces" problem that affect the older DLPs. There have been suggestions that
this problem is solved by newer DLPs, with 7 segment color wheel, 10 bit
processing, etc. If so, I would probably go for the hi res DLP. Otherwise,
the LCOS.
I would therefore like to hear from DLP owners as to wether or not this design
deficiency has been corrected in the newer DLPs.

I just got my SamSung DLP HLR4667W today.

It is the single biggest dissapointment in my entire life.

The picture quality with the DVD is pretty good, but I'm not convinced it's amazing.....though I am very impressed with some movies like the Good, the bad, the ugly, Star Wars, etc.

The really bad thing is that at 16:9 movies don't use the whole screen. ALLLLLL that wasted space! What did I need a 46" T.V. for?

You do know that the DVDs are standard definition. I use an old Sony with no upconversion and they look fine. If the DVD was shot in 1.85, it will fit the entire screen as long at the DVD is a "widescreen" version. Did you set the player correctly for a 16x9 TV set? Are you using component cables? HDMI cables? Try setting the player to 480i and letting the set upconvert.

And HDTV? what, a whole whopping 20 channels most of which I don't watch anyway? And at $16.00 more a month? But I knew I wasn't getting HDTV.

I'd suggest the best use for your set it to watch HDTV. You don't watch sports? Take a look at the football playoffs this weekend. You may be impressed with the PQ. ALso, movies look good on HD.

PS2.....
ANOTHER huge dissapointment. I even bought component cables and sadly, I am not happy with the picture. It is not crystal clear, it's just...BIG. I haven't tried it with normal cables, but if it looks worse than now, I'll probably just put the PS2 away.

Is the PS2 SD or HD?

Tomorrow is Saturday and I plan on doing a WHOLE bunch of testing. I'm going to fine tune pictures on channels, swap out VCRs and DVD players as well as their cables, swap out cables for PS2, read every bit of the manual, call Amazon and see about an exchange perhaps (though I doubt very seriously this will work). I might even set up HDTV JUST to get SOMETHING out of this Frankenstein.

I'm sorry but I had to laugh on your last statement. You sound like watching HD on your HD set was a last resort. "I might even set up HD..." May I suggest that was the FIRST thing you should have done.

Changing cables will not make a noticeable difference.

If there's anything anyone can do for me, advice, links, possible options, please find it in your goodness to help me. If nothing else help out a fellow American who served his country with distinction, bravery and honor.

Take a look at HD on your HD set.

How close are you from the set? In your apartment, you may be sitting too close. For SD, I'd suggest (for a 45" set), around 10 feet back for SD and around 8 feet for HD.

http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/ISEO-rgbtcspd/learningcenter/home/tv_faq.html
http://reviews.cnet.com/4520-7608_7-1016109-2.html

"For example, if your screen measures 43 inches, you should view it from a distance of at least 7 feet (84 inches)."

http://dlp.com/home_entertainment/home_entertainment_digital_television_buyers_guide.asp

I will be upgrading from my Sammy 1280x720 HLN DLP to either
a hi des DLP (1920x1080) or a 1920x1080 LCOS (JVC 61FH96). I
like many things about the DLP, but the big problem with my current
set is the famous "clay faces" problem that affect the older DLPs. There have been suggestions that
this problem is solved by newer DLPs, with 7 segment color wheel, 10 bit
processing, etc. If so, I would probably go for the hi res DLP. Otherwise,
the LCOS.
I would therefore like to hear from DLP owners as to wether or not this design
deficiency has been corrected in the newer DLPs.
I noticed that color only when I turned off the DNle. With that part of DNle on, flesh tones look fine, as they would look out of the box. Of course image quality is program dependent. Your mileage may vary.

I just got my SamSung DLP HLR4667W today.

It is the single biggest dissapointment in my entire life.
I thought I did enough research (2wks) by going to stores, checking online reviews, talking to people. Somehow through all of that NO ONE mentioned to me how bad regular TV looks.

Ontop of that a 46" is entirely too big for my apartment, but that's my own fault. I guess I got carried away. I've been in the Army overseas for 4 years and being back in the states with the kind of consumerism availble I guess it kind of went to my head.

I was REALLY excited about this TV.

I went out and purchased an upconvert DVD player (cheap toshiba) and a HDMI cable and tested a bunch of movies.

The picture quality with the DVD is pretty good, but I'm not convinced it's amazing.....though I am very impressed with some movies like the Good, the bad, the ugly, Star Wars, etc. But I'm sure this is largely due to the fact that it's on a huge screen.
The really bad thing is that at 16:9 movies don't use the whole screen. ALLLLLL that wasted space! What did I need a 46" T.V. for?

When I saw regualr cable on that TV I nearly went nuts. I thought for SURE it would look at least as good as my CRT, but man what a drop in quality.
And HDTV? what, a whole whopping 20 channels most of which I don't watch anyway? And at $16.00 more a month? But I knew I wasn't getting HDTV.

PS2.....
ANOTHER huge dissapointment. I even bought component cables and sadly, I am not happy with the picture. It is not crystal clear, it's just...BIG. I haven't tried it with normal cables, but if it looks worse than now, I'll probably just put the PS2 away.

The REALLY sad thing is that I bought it online and have no way of returning or exchanging it.

I should have forgot all about this new DLP craze and went ahead and bought a regular high quality widescreen TV that was smaller in size.
I would have been very happy I think especially since regular TV and PS2 games would've looked fantastic compared to this overpriced SamSung paperweight.

Tomorrow is Saturday and I plan on doing a WHOLE bunch of testing. I'm going to fine tune pictures on channels, swap out VCRs and DVD players as well as their cables, swap out cables for PS2, read every bit of the manual, call Amazon and see about an exchange perhaps (though I doubt very seriously this will work). I might even set up HDTV JUST to get SOMETHING out of this Frankenstein.

Man, the whole experience pains me deeply. It's not the money by any means and I even saved about $700.00 - $1,000.00 (depending on where you buy), it's the fact that I thought I was ushering in a new era of entertainment and I feel hoaxed, lied to, cheated and most of all....foolish.

If there's anything anyone can do for me, advice, links, possible options, please find it in your goodness to help me. If nothing else help out a fellow American who served his country with distinction, bravery and honor.

e-mails are totally welcome

Sincerely,
Eddy

Eddy ... welcome to avsForum.

The HLRxx67W owners thread is here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=537675

I'm sure that they can help you set up your set so you are happy (ier) with it. But, here are a few things to try and think about.

1. The fact that some DVD's don't use the whole screen. That is true on all TV's and be thankful that you have a set that is large enough to actually see the movie. The smaller the set the bigger this problem becomes. So count your blessings here.

Expecting awesome results from a cheap DVD player may be expecting too much. But, make sure your DVD player is setup correctly. They usually have a number of picture modes and you may be using one that has a reduced dynamic range. Check carefully. Remember, you should be able to adjust your DVD picture settings manually on the DVD player. If the DVD player does not pass BTB (blacker-than-black) test take it back. If you don't know what BTB is, then go over the DVD player forum and start to learn about DVD players.

2. SD reception can be tuned. Route your cable directly into the set and tune in your favorite station. THEN go to the TV's MENU and FINE TUNE the station for best reception. This may get quality closer to where you expect it. Another route to go, if you are on Comcast cable, some of their newer HD DVR's like the 6412 III (phase III model) have greatly improved SD tuning straight from the DVR.

3. Give HD a chance. It is great and you will begin to appreciate it.

4. Count yourself lucky!!! The TV is operational and you do not see rainbows.

Finally, this comment is for other readers. If you are unfamiliar will HDTV, don't buy online where you can not return the set.

Good luck ... your story will have a happy ending.

I noticed that color only when I turned off the DNle. With that part of DNle on, flesh tones look fine, as they would look out of the box. Of course image quality is program dependent. Your mileage may vary.

Which particular TV do you have?

so where is the 2006 thread? :)

so where is the 2006 thread? :)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6852836&&#post6852836

I just got my SamSung DLP HLR4667W today.

It is the single biggest dissapointment in my entire life.
I thought I did enough research (2wks) by going to stores, checking online reviews, talking to people. Somehow through all of that NO ONE mentioned to me how bad regular TV looks.

Ontop of that a 46" is entirely too big for my apartment, but that's my own fault. I guess I got carried away. I've been in the Army overseas for 4 years and being back in the states with the kind of consumerism availble I guess it kind of went to my head.

I was REALLY excited about this TV.

I went out and purchased an upconvert DVD player (cheap toshiba) and a HDMI cable and tested a bunch of movies.

The picture quality with the DVD is pretty good, but I'm not convinced it's amazing.....though I am very impressed with some movies like the Good, the bad, the ugly, Star Wars, etc. But I'm sure this is largely due to the fact that it's on a huge screen.
The really bad thing is that at 16:9 movies don't use the whole screen. ALLLLLL that wasted space! What did I need a 46" T.V. for?

When I saw regualr cable on that TV I nearly went nuts. I thought for SURE it would look at least as good as my CRT, but man what a drop in quality.
And HDTV? what, a whole whopping 20 channels most of which I don't watch anyway? And at $16.00 more a month? But I knew I wasn't getting HDTV.

PS2.....
ANOTHER huge dissapointment. I even bought component cables and sadly, I am not happy with the picture. It is not crystal clear, it's just...BIG. I haven't tried it with normal cables, but if it looks worse than now, I'll probably just put the PS2 away.

The REALLY sad thing is that I bought it online and have no way of returning or exchanging it.

I should have forgot all about this new DLP craze and went ahead and bought a regular high quality widescreen TV that was smaller in size.
I would have been very happy I think especially since regular TV and PS2 games would've looked fantastic compared to this overpriced SamSung paperweight.

Tomorrow is Saturday and I plan on doing a WHOLE bunch of testing. I'm going to fine tune pictures on channels, swap out VCRs and DVD players as well as their cables, swap out cables for PS2, read every bit of the manual, call Amazon and see about an exchange perhaps (though I doubt very seriously this will work). I might even set up HDTV JUST to get SOMETHING out of this Frankenstein.

Man, the whole experience pains me deeply. It's not the money by any means and I even saved about $700.00 - $1,000.00 (depending on where you buy), it's the fact that I thought I was ushering in a new era of entertainment and I feel hoaxed, lied to, cheated and most of all....foolish.

If there's anything anyone can do for me, advice, links, possible options, please find it in your goodness to help me. If nothing else help out a fellow American who served his country with distinction, bravery and honor.

e-mails are totally welcome

Sincerely,
Eddy


Eddy,

I use Comcast. They can measure the cable signal and determine if it is good or bad. You should have your cable company do the same.
Comcast had to run another cable from their outside box to my house.
This improved the signal but keep in mine that standard definition tv does not have the resolution to look as good as a smaller CRT. Digital looks good and HD is so good, even my wife watches football games now.

Good luck, it took me a awhile to get a cable tech that was knowledgable.

Marktonk

Hi,

I have young kids, so I was wondering if there is any way to attach this TV to the stand so that it does not fall down in case one of the kids accidentally gets behind the TV and pushes it slightly. I have a 32'' Toshiba CRT, which is heavy enough where I can barely move it, so there is no way kids could tip of over, but these new DLP TVs do not seem to be very sturdy. I have tried it in the store and it takes very little effort for the TV to get off-balance.

Any ideas out there from the other buyers with young kids?
Is there any way to "tip-over-proof" it :)

Thanks!

-DK

Which particular TV do you have?
6168 but most of the 2005 DLP Samsungs use the same chassis, the L65A (N) Excalilbur.

Can someone give me a high-level breakdown of the differences? I'm leaning towards the 67 because I can look at it and buy it locally.... I'm using Comcast HD and Direct TV for NFL. Thanks,

Can someone give me a high-level breakdown of the differences? I'm leaning towards the 67 because I can look at it and buy it locally.... I'm using Comcast HD and Direct TV for NFL. Thanks,
You can find the spec's for each TV in POST #1 of this thread. But, basically the main difference is that the 67 used the HD4 DLP chip, which is wobulated, and the 77 used a HD2+ DLP chip which is not wobulated. This yields slightly different pictures. Both pictures are good. There are many posts comparing these two TV's. If you don't want to get into the details behind these two sets, I would go with the 67. It has a seven segment color wheel and color may be a little more accurate with the 67. The picture may be a little (hard to notice) softer on the 67 because of the wobulation.

One more thing to consider, with the new 2006 models coming out soon (April), discounting will occur on the 1080p HLR5668W. Why not try to pick up a 1080p set at a discount? Prices have been reduced on the new 2006 models, so be careful not to end up paying to much for a model that is being discountinued in a couple of months.

I have a question about my HL-R4266w 42" DLP set that I have been thus far unable to find the exact answer to. Can somebody help with this?

I currently have an HR10-250 HD DirecTvio hooked up to my Samsung 42" DLP via HDMI. I have optical audio from the HR10 to my A/V receiver. I'm happy to turn Dolby Digital on in the HR10 settings and use the AVR for audio, but I must admit the difference in audio levels between HD and SD channels is pretty annoying. Additionally, watching TV late at night with everyone else asleep in a smallish house makes it somewhat impractical to fire up the home theater every time I flip on the set.

For the moment, the DD it set to off in the HR-10 and I use the TV speakers most of the time. When I want to use the AVR for audio, I turn DD on in the HR10, but that's a pain to do every time.

What I'd like to be able to do is turn the DD settings in the HR10 to on, yet still have the option to use the TV's speakers for audio if I'd like to. What happens if I hook up both the HDMI and component outs from the HR10 to separate inputs on the same TV? Will selection the component source on my Samsung "shut down" the HDMI port, allowing me to hear audio -- even with Dolby Digital enabled -- when I switch to component in?

If so, I can solve my problem for the cost of an additional component cable. (I'm using the one that came with the HR10 to connect my DVD player to the TV.)

Thanks!

Considering your tv is connected via HDMI can't you simply turn up the volume on the tv? HDMI sends both audio & video to the tv. Unless there is something peculiar about the HR10 both the optical & HDMI should output simaltenously. Make sure the internal mute of the tv is not on. No further adjustment should be required. I have my BEV 9200 (dish 942) connected as you describe and can simply turn up the volume on the tv on those very rare occasions I do not turn on my pre/pro. Of course you will need to connect audio cables to the tv from your DVD player to hear anything from the tv when watching that source.

Wayne,
That's just the problem. With Dolby Digital turned on, the HR10 doesn't output any audio on HD broadcasts via HDMI. As I understand it, this is because the TV doesn't have a DD decoder.

I also understand that the HR10 does not output to component and HDMI at the same time, but I guess I'm wondering if selecting the component in would disable the HDMI port to the point that the HR10 would output on component.

I guess there's only one way to find out -- plug both HDMI and component in and see if it works.

Wayne,
That's just the problem. With Dolby Digital turned on, the HR10 doesn't output any audio on HD broadcasts via HDMI. As I understand it, this is because the TV doesn't have a DD decoder.

I also understand that the HR10 does not output to component and HDMI at the same time, but I guess I'm wondering if selecting the component in would disable the HDMI port to the point that the HR10 would output on component while using the higher quality HDMI input.

I guess there's only one way to find out -- plug both HDMI and component in and see if it works.

One thing to try ... if I understand your problem ... set STB to DD and route audio (optical digital) to receiver, in addition route RCA cable from STB to DVI audio in on TV. Plug the HDMI in to the TV and plug the RCA audio cable into DVI auido in ... this will allow you to use your receiver on DD and your TV on two channel audio while using the higher quality HDMI video input.

Bill -- already tried that, no luck. I think with an HDMI cable plugged in, the TV doesn't recognize any input to the DVI audio RCA jacks.

"High-Definition Video and Digital Audio
The HD DVR provides two output jacks for sending HD video: HDMI and Component
Video. While a cable is connected to the HDMI Output jack, the Component Video Output
is disabled. You can’t view video from both the HDMI Output and the Component Video
Output at the same time. See page 31.
If your TV has an HDMI (High-Definition Multimedia Interface) input jack, you can use
the HDMI cable (
, supplied) to send both HD video and digital audio signals from your
HD DVR in a single cable. Although HDMI sends both audio and video, make a separate
audio connection to your A/V receiver if you want to use a multi-speaker sound system.
If your TV has a DVI input jack, you can use the HDMI-to-DVI cable (, supplied) to
connect your HD DVR (see Option A on page 14). Since a DVI jack accepts only video,
you will need to connect a separate cable for audio if you use this cable for video."


This is from page 30 of the manual for the HR10-250. It confirms the video is only available from one output at a time however it also suggests HDMI will output audio while you make a separate audio connection to your A/V receiver.

As you use an optical connection to your receiver I can't see how the HR10 would even "know" that output is being utilized. There is no electrical connection with an optical cable. Have you checked the internal mute setting (not simply the mute on the remote) of your tv. After confirming it is not muted you could try turning up the volume on the tv and unplugging the optical cable while the system is running. If the HR10 somehow mutes the HDMI audio unplugging the optical cable should produce audio at the tv.

I have the HLR4264 which is the same tv without the ATSC tuner or cable card slot. I have my STB set to output DD and connected via HDMI, with an optical cable to my HT. Audio is always present at the tv, but I simply keep the volume at zero.

Let us know how you make out.

I just got my HL-R4266W. i have a knology(scientific atlanta) DVR HD cable box. i'm running a component output from the cable box to the tv as well as the regular coax line from the box to the tv.

the tv picks up the component signal but i can't find a way to get it to recognize the coax. it acts like its not even plugged in. i have found all the other inputs through the menu but i'm having trouble figuring out how to get the regular coax input to work. the reason i want both is sometimes i just want the audio coming from the tv and not having to fool with the receiver.

I just got my HL-R4266W. i have a knology(scientific atlanta) DVR HD cable box. i'm running a component output from the cable box to the tv as well as the regular coax line from the box to the tv.

the tv picks up the component signal but i can't find a way to get it to recognize the coax. it acts like its not even plugged in. i have found all the other inputs through the menu but i'm having trouble figuring out how to get the regular coax input to work. the reason i want both is sometimes i just want the audio coming from the tv and not having to fool with the receiver.
Why not just run a set of RCA cables from the RCA audio out on the DVR to component audio in. That should give you two channel audio on the TV. If you want to use the tuners in the TV, split the cable BEFORE your DVR and route a coax line to the TV. You should be able to use the TV's internal tuners.

Why not just run a set of RCA cables from the RCA audio out on the DVR to component audio in. That should give you two channel audio on the TV. If you want to use the tuners in the TV, split the cable BEFORE your DVR and route a coax line to the TV. You should be able to use the TV's internal tuners.

i'll give that a shot with the rca cables. it was late and i was really tired when i posted that. thanks for the suggestion :)

I am going bleary eyed trying to find problem areas on these two models. I have been searching and reading. In simple terms, I saw a reference to the 56" model having more problems and poorer picture quality than the 61". Am I crazy or did I really read this? If so, a brief summary would be helpful. Thanks for any info or leads.

Wayne

I am going bleary eyed trying to find problem areas on these two models. I have been searching and reading. In simple terms, I saw a reference to the 56" model having more problems and poorer picture quality than the 61". Am I crazy or did I really read this? If so, a brief summary would be helpful. Thanks for any info or leads.

Wayne
The 56" and 61" in both the 720p (HLRxx67W) and 1080p (HLRxx68W/78W) models are identical. Don't worry about one being more reliable than the other. Just pick the size that you like.

There are separate owners threads for both the 720p and 1080p models if you want to read about owners experiences.

Thank you Bill. I was hoping someone would say that. FWIW it is the 1080 models I am looking at.

Wayne

hey guys, another lurker here. Been trying to research a new tv as I saved up the cash to get it. So the time is here, just around the bend actually. I have two weeks to make a final decision and so far I've come up with two choices. The one im almost absolutely sold on is the (sorry, it wont let me link it) Samsung HL-R5067W 50" DLP. I have already made plans to get the Felston Digital Delay to compensate for the audio synch problems should they arise. I have seen multiple posts concerning getting a "pedastal" model and non, a later production model, compared to an earlier model. On that note, I have a few questions.

1) Moving - Has anyone had to move one of these things to another location? i.e. moving from an apt to a house? How did that go? Are they as cumbersome as they look? I have a 35" RCA thats a real nightmare to move.

2) Heat - I will have this in a fairly small room, 10x14. I know the ambient temp of the room will increase significantly due to the lamps/projectors. My question is, does anyone know the BTU/Energy output of the set at normal operating temperature? I'm trying to decide how to manage airflow in the theatre room, and this information would be helpful. Is it listed in the guide somewhere?

3) Remote - I've seen the remote for the Sammy, and I can honestly say I'm not particularly fond of it. My question is, has anyone had any good luck with universal remotes? I hear the Harmony is quite good. But was wondering if there was something a little more nominally priced that would still allow me to make use of all the features of the set without having to remember some cryptic special code, up up down down left right left right b a start and what not.


4) What is meant by a pedastal model? ( i know its a dumb question, but I'd rather ask and look stupid, than run into this blind )
Thanks for all the information!

Gary.

hey guys, another lurker here. Been trying to research a new tv as I saved up the cash to get it. So the time is here, just around the bend actually. I have two weeks to make a final decision and so far I've come up with two choices. The one im almost absolutely sold on is the (sorry, it wont let me link it) Samsung HL-R5067W 50" DLP. I have already made plans to get the Felston Digital Delay to compensate for the audio synch problems should they arise. I have seen multiple posts concerning getting a "pedastal" model and non, a later production model, compared to an earlier model. On that note, I have a few questions.

1) Moving - Has anyone had to move one of these things to another location? i.e. moving from an apt to a house? How did that go? Are they as cumbersome as they look? I have a 35" RCA thats a real nightmare to move.

2) Heat - I will have this in a fairly small room, 10x14. I know the ambient temp of the room will increase significantly due to the lamps/projectors. My question is, does anyone know the BTU/Energy output of the set at normal operating temperature? I'm trying to decide how to manage airflow in the theatre room, and this information would be helpful. Is it listed in the guide somewhere?

3) Remote - I've seen the remote for the Sammy, and I can honestly say I'm not particularly fond of it. My question is, has anyone had any good luck with universal remotes? I hear the Harmony is quite good. But was wondering if there was something a little more nominally priced that would still allow me to make use of all the features of the set without having to remember some cryptic special code, up up down down left right left right b a start and what not.


4) What is meant by a pedastal model? ( i know its a dumb question, but I'd rather ask and look stupid, than run into this blind )
Thanks for all the information!

Gary.
1. At around 70 lbs. they are light and two people can easily and effortlessly hand them.
2. They consume about 230 watts ... and put out about the equivalent amount of heat as say a couple of 100 watt light bulbs.
3. Invest the extra money in a quality remote! But, if you would like to look at a broad range of options try www.remotecentral.com. They have a remote picker link that you enter some data like cost and other attributes and will suggest some options.
4. The HLR5067W is a tabletop model that usually sits on it's own stand. The pedestal model has the screen on top of a pedestal that supports it and does not need a stand. Look at POST #1 in this thread for a picture and specs. Many feel the HLR5087W pedestal model has a nice picture.

Finally, the 2006 models are scheduled to show up in April ... you might want to take a peek at them before making this purchase. Prices are down and they have new cabinets. Performance may be better. The 2006 models have two HDMI inputs!

i have a scientific atlanta 8300 digital DVR cable box, i just tried hooking up to my HLR4266W via hdmi cable and it won't. is this tv not hdcp compliant?

n/m i reset the cable box and turned the internal mute on on the tv and everythigns working now. just had to play with it a bit.

i just did an Avia calibration on my hlr4266w throuth my new oppo dvd player over the component cables.

does the sharpness setting on this tv do ANYTHING? i noticed no change through the entire sharpness setting range.

i just did an Avia calibration on my hlr4266w throuth my new oppo dvd player over the component cables.

does the sharpness setting on this tv do ANYTHING? i noticed no change through the entire sharpness setting range.
From what I've read (mostly on these forums) and heard, adjusting the Sharpness setting on DLP's has little to no effect on the PQ. I calibrated my HL-R5067W with DVE, and I had to turn the Sharpness way up/down to see any change. I had to look VERY closely to distinguish the effect of the adjustment.

Hi everyone! I'm new here to the forums. Lots of great info here! I just purchased a Samsung 42" DLP (HLR466WX). I love the TV so far. I just have one problem/question. Cox Cable just installed my HD service and it looks incredible using their component cables. If I use the HDMI cables (Monster Cable 600 series), the picture looks a little grainy compared to the component setup. With both setups the cables go straight from the HD receiver to their respective inputs on the back of the DLP. Do you think this is a problem with the TV's HDMI input or the receiver's HDMI output? I'm hoping BestBuy will give me a refund on the HDMI cables after I have opened them. I thought the HDMI would look better. (not sure how much better it is supposed to look) Any suggestions are appreciated.

Robert

Hi everyone! I'm new here to the forums. Lots of great info here! I just purchased a Samsung 42" DLP (HLR466WX). I love the TV so far. I just have one problem/question. Cox Cable just installed my HD service and it looks incredible using their component cables. If I use the HDMI cables (Monster Cable 600 series), the picture looks a little grainy compared to the component setup. With both setups the cables go straight from the HD receiver to their respective inputs on the back of the DLP. Do you think this is a problem with the TV's HDMI input or the receiver's HDMI output? I'm hoping BestBuy will give me a refund on the HDMI cables after I have opened them. I thought the HDMI would look better. (not sure how much better it is supposed to look) Any suggestions are appreciated.

Robert

Generally speaking, the HDMI digital cable will look better than the analog component cables. However, I don't know how good the processing is inside your Cox box. If the picture is "grainy", you could have a defective box. The free HDMI cable I got with DirecTV HD looks fine.

1.

Finally, the 2006 models are scheduled to show up in April ... you might want to take a peek at them before making this purchase. Prices are down and they have new cabinets. Performance may be better. The 2006 models have two HDMI inputs!

Hi There,

I recently saw the 6178 at a store and was VERY impressed, whereas I have not been impressed by the Sony 60" SXRD due to too much video noise.

I started reading this thread from the beginning but at 4 am on page 12 when I realised there were over 300 pages, it fianlly sunk in that I wasn't going to be able to amass the total Samsung DLP knowledge... :o

My questions are these (appologies if they are repeats):

A) Does anyone know where I can find any information on the new models coming out for 2006? Are they worth waiting that long for?
B) Is it easy to make these sets very noise free for both HD and DVD content? I am VERY sensitive to noise, edge enhancement, interlace artifacts and the like.
C) Can these sets be used out of the box with regular Video Essentials type setup, or do they need professional calibration to make them usable for sensitive eyes?
D) From what I was able to skim, all of the HDMI, VGA and Component inputs accept 1080p - is that correct?


Thank you in advance,
-samsung-lurker

Hi There,

I recently saw the 6178 at a store and was VERY impressed, whereas I have not been impressed by the Sony 60" SXRD due to too much video noise.

I started reading this thread from the beginning but at 4 am on page 12 when I realised there were over 300 pages, it fianlly sunk in that I wasn't going to be able to amass the total Samsung DLP knowledge... :o

My questions are these (appologies if they are repeats):

A) Does anyone know where I can find any information on the new models coming out for 2006? Are they worth waiting that long for?
B) Is it easy to make these sets very noise free for both HD and DVD content? I am VERY sensitive to noise, edge enhancement, interlace artifacts and the like.
C) Can these sets be used out of the box with regular Video Essentials type setup, or do they need professional calibration to make them usable for sensitive eyes?
D) From what I was able to skim, all of the HDMI, VGA and Component inputs accept 1080p - is that correct?


Thank you in advance,
-samsung-lurker

Some answers:
A) There is a separate HLSxxxW thread on the 2006 models.
B) Noise free is not a precise term ... the quality of your image on the Samsung will be a direct reflection of the source. So if you have a high quality feed it will look good, if you have a noisy broadcast, the TV will accurately show the noise.
You want to get a good DVD player (especially one without macroblocking (noise)).
C) Yes, DVE is all that you need.
D) Only the VGA supports 1080p; the HDMI and component support 1080i and translate that to 1080p for display. The 2006 models support 1080p on HDMI and VGA (I an unsure about component).

Cox Cable has told me that they do not "support" the HDMI output on their receivers. The output works but if you have any issues with them they will not troubleshoot or help you.

Hi everyone! I'm new here to the forums. Lots of great info here! I just purchased a Samsung 42" DLP (HLR466WX). I love the TV so far. I just have one problem/question. Cox Cable just installed my HD service and it looks incredible using their component cables. If I use the HDMI cables (Monster Cable 600 series), the picture looks a little grainy compared to the component setup. With both setups the cables go straight from the HD receiver to their respective inputs on the back of the DLP. Do you think this is a problem with the TV's HDMI input or the receiver's HDMI output? I'm hoping BestBuy will give me a refund on the HDMI cables after I have opened them. I thought the HDMI would look better. (not sure how much better it is supposed to look) Any suggestions are appreciated.

Robert

I also noticed that the Component seemed to look better then the HDMI until I had a chance to really look at it, it was a little more grainy but the color was much better with the HDMI. Also using a Cox Cable box 3250HD....Samsung 56" HLR-5688W, after ajusting the color and sharpness settings I was able to clear up the HDMI signal....check the settings to see if you can improve it.

Hi all, I am new to the forum and havent quite mastered the detailed search. So forgive me if this is a redundant question, but can someone point me to a previous post that outlines some preferred settings for the Samsung 42"? Id really appreciate it. I have had the set for about a month now, and am pretty pleased with it overall. I just got the H20 Directv hooked up this last tuesday, and it makes the set that much more enjoyable, although i have to say, some stations don't look that much better than they did on my 27" CRT. Lost on ABC for example. I do have HD Locals as well. So that is the reason i was looking for some examples of settings. I want to make sure that i have the set optimized for picture quality if at all possible. I know the 46" is supposed to have better PQ than the 42", but unfortunately my entertainment armoire limited my choice to either this set or the Sony 42A10. I just made it with 1/2" to spare on each side!
Also, it seems to me like the Sammy doesn't do real well on shadowy backgrounds, in terms of displaying a smooth transition between dark to light. Always seems choppy, but this is more the case on SD broadcasts. Anyway, thanks in advance for any replies.

Hi all, I am new to the forum and havent quite mastered the detailed search. So forgive me if this is a redundant question, but can someone point me to a previous post that outlines some preferred settings for the Samsung 42"? Id really appreciate it. I have had the set for about a month now, and am pretty pleased with it overall. I just got the H20 Directv hooked up this last tuesday, and it makes the set that much more enjoyable, although i have to say, some stations don't look that much better than they did on my 27" CRT. Lost on ABC for example. I do have HD Locals as well. So that is the reason i was looking for some examples of settings. I want to make sure that i have the set optimized for picture quality if at all possible. I know the 46" is supposed to have better PQ than the 42", but unfortunately my entertainment armoire limited my choice to either this set or the Sony 42A10. I just made it with 1/2" to spare on each side!
Also, it seems to me like the Sammy doesn't do real well on shadowy backgrounds, in terms of displaying a smooth transition between dark to light. Always seems choppy, but this is more the case on SD broadcasts. Anyway, thanks in advance for any replies.
Try the Samsung HLRxx67W Owners Thread --- 720p DLP HDTV (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=537675). Search that thread for Index. It is a Service Menu tweak. It should help improve your PQ of dark, shadowy scenes. There are also several posts in that thread where different members have listed their User Menu picture settings, including me.

Had my set calibrated by 2 ISF technicians. Settings Posted. Details here. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=649153

Hi all, I am new to the forum and havent quite mastered the detailed search. So forgive me if this is a redundant question, but can someone point me to a previous post that outlines some preferred settings for the Samsung 42"? Id really appreciate it. I have had the set for about a month now, and am pretty pleased with it overall. I just got the H20 Directv hooked up this last tuesday, and it makes the set that much more enjoyable, although i have to say, some stations don't look that much better than they did on my 27" CRT. Lost on ABC for example. I do have HD Locals as well. So that is the reason i was looking for some examples of settings. I want to make sure that i have the set optimized for picture quality if at all possible. I know the 46" is supposed to have better PQ than the 42", but unfortunately my entertainment armoire limited my choice to either this set or the Sony 42A10. I just made it with 1/2" to spare on each side!
Also, it seems to me like the Sammy doesn't do real well on shadowy backgrounds, in terms of displaying a smooth transition between dark to light. Always seems choppy, but this is more the case on SD broadcasts. Anyway, thanks in advance for any replies.
One good idea is to buy a DVD called Digital Video Essentials, we call it DVE for short. This will walk you through tuning your set's DVD connection. If you are a Comcast cable subscriber, there is a show called Tune-up on IN (usually in off hours) that walks you through tuning up your cable connection.

Thanks Bill. Dumb Question: Does using the THX Video Optimizer that is on some DVDs like Star Wars accomplish the same thing as DVE? Just wondering since it runs you through some different scenarios that help you adjust your settings.

Thanks Bill. Dumb Question: Does using the THX Video Optimizer that is on some DVDs like Star Wars accomplish the same thing as DVE? Just wondering since it runs you through some different scenarios that help you adjust your settings.
Yes, THX Optimizer is a similar concept. But, DVE will give you many more setup routines and explanations. DVE is only about $20 ... I'm not totally sure about this, but I think that you can rent it on Netflix. You just don't get the color strips to set color on your set with the rental.

I have a Samsung HLN-5065W. Last night I turned it on and a message saying "check the fan No.2" started blinking on the screen along with the temp light and timer light. Anybody know what to do or what part I need to buy to fix the problem?

thanks

Does there exist a discrete remote code for PIP swap for the HLR series of TVs? The PIP swap code in my Harmony 880 setup does not work.

Thanks
Steve

hi, I'm thinking about getting my first HDTV and I now have my eyes on the 6168. I'm just wondering about the lag issue seemingly everyone with it complains about.. What exactly causes this lag? Is it related to the TV upscaling the image? I'm probably going to play games at 1280x720 or 1920x1080 from a PC, depending on the game. Will the image lag like others said with the Xbox?

I'll be watching DVDs and playing games, both through a PC, and my question is basically: Buy the 6168 now or wait for some newer model?

hi, I'm thinking about getting my first HDTV and I now have my eyes on the 6168.

I have the same set and like it.

I'm just wondering about the lag issue seemingly everyone with it complains about.. What exactly causes this lag? Is it related to the TV upscaling the image?

It is related to the time it takes to process the video vs. the time it takes toi process the audio. However, all lag is not created by the set. The broadcast station has to make sure their material is in sync and some don't. I was at a LA station a couple of weeks ago and had them take out a frame of video delay to better match their audio. There really isn't one person at the station that has the responsibility to watch audio sync. They all do. For sports remotes, we send a lip sync test when clearing transmission with master control but that does not check all paths in a truck. It just checks the primary path out to the encoder. If the football Ref is shot with the high 1,2 or 3 cameras at a football game, he will be out of sync if the truck hasn't made adjustments due to the delay of the First and 10 yellow line processing.

It's a lot more complicated than just the set is out of sync. Some movies are horrible, many fine. A newer set will not make up for a station being out of sync.

I'm probably going to play games at 1280x720 or 1920x1080 from a PC, depending on the game. Will the image lag like others said with the Xbox?

If you use the PC VGA input, you should see little or no lag.

I'll be watching DVDs and playing games, both through a PC, and my question is basically: Buy the 6168 now or wait for some newer model?

The question is do you want to watch HD now or later?

I have a Samsung HLN-5065W. Last night I turned it on and a message saying "check the fan No.2" started blinking on the screen along with the temp light and timer light. Anybody know what to do or what part I need to buy to fix the problem?

thanks
Check to see if the fan is running.
Check to see if anything is blocking the air flow.
Check to see if it is too close to the back wall and not getting enough air circulation.

The question is do you want to watch HD now or later?

Yeah I will probably be getting DirecTV HD soon after, will there be any problems there? I don't really watch TV, and I'm perfectly fine with whatever ATSC channels I can receive here in Fremont, CA (near San Francisco, San Jose, etc) but my other family members will probably want HD channels... and I'll want it just to know i have it :p

so what about watching DVDs? I saw numerous posts saying there is a rainbow effect for some DVDs?

so what about watching DVDs? I saw numerous posts saying there is a rainbow effect for some DVDs?
The "Rainbow Effect" is caused by the sequential display of colors. If you can move your eyes fast enough, you may see individual colors that make up each frame. Some color filter wheels use three colors, some seven. The more the colors, the faster the display and the less possibility you will see and artifacts. The 6168 has a seven segment color wheel.

DVDs don't cause rainbows. I think some viewers confuse cross-color with Rainbows. Cross-color is what you see with fine patterns. It is luminance being confused as chromance since the frequency of the luminance is close to the subcarrier frequency of 3.58 MHz. So the set thinks the luminance is color and you get a rainbow pattern. The difference is that cross-color is over a small section of the screen where Rainbows would be on fast moving objects or over the entire screen. I don't see rainbows on the 6168.

From http://www.dlptvreview.com/dlptv-howworks.html

"Note: Because DLPs "stack" red, green, and blue components of light over a period of time--albeit an exceedingly brief period of time (milliseconds)--it is theoretically possible to see a "rainbow effect" on your TV screen. This is an instance where the colors apparently fail to layer properly, so that viewers perceive discrete transitions from red to green to blue on the screen (hence the "rainbow" euphemism). Few people are genuinely bothered by this phenomenon, and it seems mainly to occur on the earliest DLP models. Second- and third-generation DLPs have been reengineered to mitigate such color separation.

Still, the only way to figure out if you're sensitive to the speed of the color wheel and can see artifacts generated as it spins is to do some viewing tests of your own. You should try out a variety of video material because this effect tends to be content-specific, i.e., more prevalent in the dark areas around a moving bright spot."

hi, I'm thinking about getting my first HDTV and I now have my eyes on the 6168. I'm just wondering about the lag issue seemingly everyone with it complains about.. What exactly causes this lag? Is it related to the TV upscaling the image? I'm probably going to play games at 1280x720 or 1920x1080 from a PC, depending on the game. Will the image lag like others said with the Xbox?

I'll be watching DVDs and playing games, both through a PC, and my question is basically: Buy the 6168 now or wait for some newer model?
If you are concerned about lag and gaming, you should wait for a 2006 HLS6187W. They should be out in a month or so. Samsung has said that there are improvements in gaming performance and capabilities on the 2006 models.

Problems with new Samsung HL-R4667W, are they common?

I had a Samsung HLN-467W that I used as a Computer Display over DVI and it was great. So one day my HLN broke and Samsung couldn't fix it and offered me this new HL-R4667W and I'm not so sure I'm happy about the swap anymore...

Problem 1: HD4 DLP is less sharp than HD2
My HLN was based on the HD2 DLP with a single mirror per pixel and I have since found out that the HLR is based in the HD4 which uses wobulation and results in these funky diamond shaped pixels which makes a computer based image less sharp.

Problem 2: You can't properly use the HDMI input for a computer!
The PC "Auto Adjust" options in the menu are disabled for the HDMI input. On my old HLN these options were enabled for the DVI-D input. Without these adjustment options, the display image is distorted and unwatchable. I'm sure Samsung thought nobody would need these options on this HDMI input, so they disabled it.

Problem 3: You can't properly use the VGA input for a computer!
The VGA input of course is functional and looks OK once you run the PC -> autoadjust, but there is the expected overscan where about 5% of the image is lost all the way around the screen (including most of my clock, start button and taskbar :confused: ). The problem is that Analog Display devices (such as VGA displays) should not have overscan so overscan compensation is not available in nVidia's drivers. So, on VGA, I cannot create a custom resolution to fit the visible portion of the display. Now, I could press the P.SIZE button to switch to Wide PC, but this compresses the 1280 pixel wide image into an area of 1140 which blurs the entire image and causes distortions.

Problem 4: Focus Problems?
The picture is just plain blurry in parts of the screen. It might be inperceptable if using this as a TV, but as a computer display that I read from, a blurry display is almost unusable. The top of the screen is in focus, but towards the bottom it's blurry. Here is an image: http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/7798/blurryhlr34nh.jpg

My HLN-467W never had any of these issues and I wish I had never agreed to replace my TV... hrmm. Anybody in the Washington D.C. area interested in swapping their old HLP4674 for this HLR? Great for TV. Bad for Computers.

And to top it all off when I called Samsung and told them, this HLR is worse for computers than my 2 year old HLN and I wanted to trade for an old refurb, they seemed to get irritated that I was complaining about this great new TV they gave me. Gee thanks....

-Valkyrie-MT
Samsung HL-R4667W

There is alot of choices and options here, and people that never used an external scaler before will be a little bit lost and confused with all the terms. For exemple. You really need to know the signal type you need to output.. So YCbCr 4:2:2 or 4:4:4, RGB or Extented RGB, the color space of your display (SDTV or HDTV), the ouput resolution of the scaler (and if you know it, you definitely want to output a 1:1 signal matching your diplay native resolution).

Does anyone have the answers to this for an HL-R6178W?

There are alot of choices and options here, and people that never used an external scaler before will be a little bit lost and confused with all the terms. For exemple. You really need to know the signal type you need to output.. So YCbCr 4:2:2 or 4:4:4, RGB or Extented RGB, the color space of your display (SDTV or HDTV), the ouput resolution of the scaler (and if you know it, you definitely want to output a 1:1 signal matching your diplay native resolution).

Does anyone have the answers to this for an HL-R6178W?

Just ordered HL-R5087w from tigerdirect, got the TV last nite and hooked up with my cable box. I soon noticed there are couple of thin strips of dark pixels on the lower bottom of the screen. Those spots are kind of like covered by dirt. Are those bad pixels?

Can anyone suggest what should I tell tigerdirect or samsung?

very unhappy now :confused:

Just ordered HL-R5087w from tigerdirect, got the TV last nite and hooked up with my cable box. I soon noticed there are couple of thin strips of dark pixels on the lower bottom of the screen. Those spots are kind of like covered by dirt. Are those bad pixels?

Can anyone suggest what should I tell tigerdirect or samsung?

very unhappy now :confused:
There is probably a 100% chance that they are NOT bad pixels.

It is probably not the TV. Your cable box is probably sending the extra bad lines to the TV. Usually your cable STB needs some configuration to support a HDTV. For example, you may need to set the box for 16:9 output, set the resolution to 720p, and tell the STB how to handle SD channels. If you can tell us more about your cable provider, STB, and type of channel that is the problem, we may be able to tell you how to set it up correctly.

Bill,

Thanks a lot for your reply.

I hooked up my xbox and still see those dark areas. It's particulary obvious when the screen background is white, and I can visually distinguish those areas from the rest of the screen even the tv is off. The shape of those areas are irregular and looks to me like some sort of physical damage but after I carefully scrutinize the screen I cannot tell there is any. Any ideas?

Bill,

Thanks a lot for your reply.

I hooked up my xbox and still see those dark areas. It's particulary obvious when the screen background is white, and I can visually distinguish those areas from the rest of the screen even the tv is off. The shape of those areas are irregular and looks to me like some sort of physical damage but after I carefully scrutinize the screen I cannot tell there is any. Any ideas?
If you can see them when the TV is OFF, then there is a physical problem with the screen or frame. Call Samsung support, they will have a technician come out and look at the problem and take the right action ... ie., replace screen or other components.

... or ... Since the TV is new, you might just want to replace it with another unit.

I bought a 50" Samsung DLP and a DirecTV HD receiver on January 8th and about a month ago the screen goes grey (sounds goes away too). After a minute it states "Weak Signal or No Signal" and then the screen turns blue and states the DirecTV is acquiring information from satellite (goes from 0% to 100%). I thought it was the box but when the screen turns grey the power stays on the DirecTV box and all of my other TVs in the house are still working via a DirecTV box. I got home tonight and turned the tv on and it happened 6 times within a 15 minute period. It even happened back-to-back after the TV came back on for about 2 seconds.

I have the DLP hooked up to the DirecTV box with a HDMI monster cable.

Has anyone heard of this problem? I did a search on this forum and did not see it mentioned anywhere. Did not want to be the newbie who posted the same question for the 100th time.

I mentioned the date of purchase because I did not buy the warranty and 90 days just expired. I bought the TV and HD receiver from BestBuy.

Any advice?

Anyone know what the problem here is?

I bought a 50" Samsung DLP and a DirecTV HD receiver on January 8th and about a month ago the screen goes grey (sounds goes away too). After a minute it states "Weak Signal or No Signal" and then the screen turns blue and states the DirecTV is acquiring information from satellite (goes from 0% to 100%). I thought it was the box but when the screen turns grey the power stays on the DirecTV box and all of my other TVs in the house are still working via a DirecTV box. I got home tonight and turned the tv on and it happened 6 times within a 15 minute period. It even happened back-to-back after the TV came back on for about 2 seconds.

I have the DLP hooked up to the DirecTV box with a HDMI monster cable.

Has anyone heard of this problem? I did a search on this forum and did not see it mentioned anywhere. Did not want to be the newbie who posted the same question for the 100th time.

I mentioned the date of purchase because I did not buy the warranty and 90 days just expired. I bought the TV and HD receiver from BestBuy.

Any advice?

Anyone know what the problem here is?

Rob, you should have at least a year warranty thru Samsung. Give them a call.

If you can see them when the TV is OFF, then there is a physical problem with the screen or frame. Call Samsung support, they will have a technician come out and look at the problem and take the right action ... ie., replace screen or other components.

... or ... Since the TV is new, you might just want to replace it with another unit.

Critical issue is that getting a TV replacement with a new set is **much more** difficult when the set is more then 90 days old as Samsung policy is to only replace with new at less than 90 days.
Highly urge... dont wait on this.

Hi guys.
My HLN437W got fried by a lightning strike this week. I am limited by the size of set I can get because of a cabinet restriction (can't be more than 44" wide).
I really enjoyed my old set, but the "black crush" problems really bothered me. Has Sammy improved this? I have also looked at plasma but am worried about "burn in" becaue my kids play a lot of video games. Things have sure changed since I last shopped for a set 2 years ago. Can anyone give me some guidance ?

Hi guys.
My HLN437W got fried by a lightning strike this week. I am limited by the size of set I can get because of a cabinet restriction (can't be more than 44" wide).
I really enjoyed my old set, but the "black crush" problems really bothered me. Has Sammy improved this? I have also looked at plasma but am worried about "burn in" becaue my kids play a lot of video games. Things have sure changed since I last shopped for a set 2 years ago. Can anyone give me some guidance ?
The 2006 models are coming out right now ... so you might want to look at the 2006 Samsung DLP thread. Samsung is offering both 42" and 46" models that might work in your cabinet. [If this set is for the kids, you might look for a 2005 HLR closeout TV in 42" or 46".] But, you might want to consider getting a larger 1080p set and moving away from the cabinet.

Gaming performance is greatly improved on the 2006 sets ... so if that is a requirement look at the 2006 thread and buy a model starting with HLSxxxxW.

The 2006 models are coming out right now ... so you might want to look at the 2006 Samsung DLP thread. Samsung is offering both 42" and 46" models that might work in your cabinet. [If this set is for the kids, you might look for a 2005 HLR closeout TV in 42" or 46".] But, you might want to consider getting a larger 1080p set and moving away from the cabinet.

Gaming performance is greatly improved on the 2006 sets ... so if that is a requirement look at the 2006 thread and buy a model starting with HLSxxxxW.

Thanks Bill!

I too have noticed that the Samsung models starting at 50" have 1080p performance but I also have a 44" cabinet restriction and have been waiting for the 2006 models. Tweeters in the Wash DC area says they are "on the way" but don't have all the specs. They do know they are 720p performance. Should I be terribly disappointed? From what I have read and seen on this and other forums, the 2006 model 720p versions should still be a significant upgrade from last year. Comments?

I am thinking of getting the HL-R5067W. Would I still experience lag when playing Gamecube via S-Video (480i) even after setting the input to "Game" mode? Thanks.

I am thinking of getting the HL-R5067W. Would I still experience lag when playing Gamecube via S-Video (480i) even after setting the input to "Game" mode? Thanks.
Just buy a 2006 HLS5086W instead ... gaming performance is improved (early reports indicate no lag) and prices have dropped.

How is the lag on on the HLR's with lets say an xbox 360 outputting 720p resolution. I am wondering this because I might purchase a 360 or a PS3 down the road if they release games that interest me. I am wondering this because I can get the HL-R5067w super cheap here on a closeout special. It is around $700 cheaper then what they are selling the new HL-S 50" 720p set for.

How is the lag on on the HLR's with lets say an xbox 360 outputting 720p resolution. I am wondering this because I might purchase a 360 or a PS3 down the road if they release games that interest me. I am wondering this because I can get the HL-R5067w super cheap here on a closeout special. It is around $700 cheaper then what they are selling the new HL-S 50" 720p set for.
I am new to this thread. However from what I read here, my understanding is that you will not experience lag if you are inputting 720p via component. This is because HL-R5067w is inherently 720p. The lag is caused by the upscaling, interlacing and other video processing that the onboard processors have to do before an image is shown on the screen. By enabling the "Game Mode", it cuts down the video processing time by skipping two of the video signal processors in the TV. Since my Gamecube model only supports 420i, extra processing needs to be done by the processors and thus cause delay. Somebody please correct me if my understanding is not correct. My only question is whether enabling the "Game Mode" is good enough to eliminate the lag for playing a 420i game. Following is a direct excerpt from Samsung's Knowledge Base about the "Game Mode".
----
"Game Mode is available on many current Samsung TVs. When you set a video source (input) to Game mode, your TV electronically bypasses two of the video signal processors in the TV, subsequently cutting down the amount of time the TV needs to process the video input from your game. You may notice a slight difference in the picture, but after you implement Game mode, the audio and video on your game should be synchronized."

I know the 2006 samsungs have an actual game mode you turn on, but I don;t think the 2005 have that mode. The closest that there is on the 2005 from my experience is that you can turn the change the name of the input to Game. That might be in a sense a game mode, not positive though.

How is the lag on on the HLR's with lets say an xbox 360 outputting 720p resolution. I am wondering this because I might purchase a 360 or a PS3 down the road if they release games that interest me. I am wondering this because I can get the HL-R5067w super cheap here on a closeout special. It is around $700 cheaper then what they are selling the new HL-S 50" 720p set for.
There is a Samsung HLRxx67W Owners Thread with extensive comments on this topic ... you can get a detailed answer there by searching that thread.

How is the lag on on the HLR's with lets say an xbox 360 outputting 720p resolution. I am wondering this because I might purchase a 360 or a PS3 down the road if they release games that interest me. I am wondering this because I can get the HL-R5067w super cheap here on a closeout special. It is around $700 cheaper then what they are selling the new HL-S 50" 720p set for.
I have a PS2 hooked up to my HL-R5067W via Component cables with the TV in Game mode. I don't do too much gaming on it - mostly just Madden '06, SOCOM III and The Godfather as of late. FWIW, I haven't really experienced any noticeable lag on it with these three games.

Does anybody know if the HLR5087W pedestal model uses 8-bit or 10-bit video proccesing? I can't find that information anywhere?

Has anyone found their Auto Clock Set functioning properly on their HLR-5078W? When I have auto clock set, the year jumps to 2072 and the day, month, and time are not set properly.

Has anyone found their Auto Clock Set functioning properly on their HLR-5078W? When I have auto clock set, the year jumps to 2072 and the day, month, and time are not set properly.



I used to have it on auto but kept disappearring.So I put it on manual and been there since.Go figure lol

Has anyone experienced when first turning their HLR DLP series power on, they get a blank screen? When this does happen, I have to turn the DLP off and back on again. When the blank screen occurs there are no warning light indicators just audio with out any picture. It would appear the lamp does not turn on when this issue occurs.

I've never had that lamp issue, sounds like your set needs to be serviced.

How is the lag on on the HLR's with lets say an xbox 360 outputting 720p resolution. I am wondering this because I might purchase a 360 or a PS3 down the road if they release games that interest me. I am wondering this because I can get the HL-R5067w super cheap here on a closeout special. It is around $700 cheaper then what they are selling the new HL-S 50" 720p set for.

I have an HL-R5667w, with an Xbox 360 (component), PS2 (component) and GC (S-video) all hooked up. The 360, outputting 720p, never lags in the least. With the PS2, I noticed some lag in 480i (not p) until I set the mode to GAME, now it's perfect, even for twitch-demanding games like Guitar Hero or Dance Dance Revolution. The GC lags a bit (less on 480p games than 480i), but it's rarely even noticeable. None of my friends can even tell, I guess I'm just picky about it.

So, the short answer to your question is the X360 is perfectly fine, and the PS3 should be fine as well. The only lag is from lower res interlaced sources, and the "GAME" mode helps those issues a lot.

Well, for the last month, I have been using my HLR as a computer display with no overscan and 1:1 pixel mapping because problem #3 and #4 (shown below) have been resolved... Bascially, problem #4 was resolved when Samsung replaced my light engine. Problem #3 was resolved with the "Powerstrip" program which is free to try (I went ahead and bought it). No more cut off startbar or clock in windows and no distortions!

I'll try to recall exactly what I did here:


Connect your TV to your computer via VGA input on TV and switch to "PC" source.
Set your TV to "WideTV" mode using the P.Size button on the remote. (WideTV is the only mode that gives you a 1:1 pixel mapping)
Download and Install Powerstrip and setup a custom resolution using these settings shown in this picture here (http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/8650/hlrpowerstripconfig1cz.jpg)
Go into the TV menu and select Setup -> PC -> AutoAdjustment
Then, you probably will have to adjust the position in the TV menu at Setup -> PC -> Position. Note: your TV will show a resolution of 1280x720 @60Hz. That's because the graphics card actually sends a 1280x720 resolution to the TV, but blacks-out where the overscan is. If you cannot get it centered, you may have to have Samsung come out to access your Service menu to adjust it more.
Also, I made a display driver for the HL-R4667W (can probably be used for any HL-RXX67) but I don't think it is necessary.
Also, to make sure you actually have achieved a 1:1 mapping, you can use the image below as a test image. Set it as you windows background in tile mode. The top 1/3 of the image should look like a grey (and it may seem to flicker a little, but I think it's ok). Also, if you switch to WidePC mode, you should see the distortions in the test pattern to see the benefit of the 1:1 pixel mapping.


Note: When your computer is rebooted, during the bootup, the TV will say "unsupported mode" for about 10 seconds (longer if Powerstrip you are using the Trial version of Powerstrip). This is normal. The custom resolution is unsupported until powerstrip starts up...

I know this is kind of a brief write up, but I'm kinda busy these days...
Ultimately, the HL-R's HD4 DLP chip with wobulation (aka Cinema Smooth) makes for an image that is less sharp than previous HD2 based TV's, but it's tolerable when configured optimally.

Good Luck everyone! And let me know if anyone ever achieves this with the nVidia drivers. Also, I already notified nVidia of the issue. Thanks to alangant for prodding me into finding a solution and for some advice.
-Valkyrie-MT

http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/8650/hlrpowerstripconfig1cz.th.jpg (http://img118.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hlrpowerstripconfig1cz.jpg)

Mark Rejhon's Test Pattern to see if you are getting a 1:1 pixel mapping:
http://img393.imageshack.us/img393/5083/digitaltestpatternbymark3dl.th.gif (http://img393.imageshack.us/my.php?image=digitaltestpatternbymark3dl.gif)

Note: You assume all liabilities by performing this procedure on your TV and computer.

Problems with new Samsung HL-R4667W, are they common?

I had a Samsung HLN-467W that I used as a Computer Display over DVI and it was great. So one day my HLN broke and Samsung couldn't fix it and offered me this new HL-R4667W and I'm not so sure I'm happy about the swap anymore...

Problem 1: HD4 DLP is less sharp than HD2
My HLN was based on the HD2 DLP with a single mirror per pixel and I have since found out that the HLR is based in the HD4 which uses wobulation and results in these funky diamond shaped pixels which makes a computer based image less sharp.

Problem 2: You can't properly use the HDMI input for a computer!
The PC "Auto Adjust" options in the menu are disabled for the HDMI input. On my old HLN these options were enabled for the DVI-D input. Without these adjustment options, the display image is distorted and unwatchable. I'm sure Samsung thought nobody would need these options on this HDMI input, so they disabled it.

Problem 3: You can't properly use the VGA input for a computer!
The VGA input of course is functional and looks OK once you run the PC -> autoadjust, but there is the expected overscan where about 5% of the image is lost all the way around the screen (including most of my clock, start button and taskbar :confused: ). The problem is that Analog Display devices (such as VGA displays) should not have overscan so overscan compensation is not available in nVidia's drivers. So, on VGA, I cannot create a custom resolution to fit the visible portion of the display. Now, I could press the P.SIZE button to switch to Wide PC, but this compresses the 1280 pixel wide image into an area of 1140 which blurs the entire image and causes distortions.

Problem 4: Focus Problems?
The picture is just plain blurry in parts of the screen. It might be inperceptable if using this as a TV, but as a computer display that I read from, a blurry display is almost unusable. The top of the screen is in focus, but towards the bottom it's blurry. Here is an image: http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/7798/blurryhlr34nh.jpg

My HLN-467W never had any of these issues and I wish I had never agreed to replace my TV... hrmm. Anybody in the Washington D.C. area interested in swapping their old HLP4674 for this HLR? Great for TV. Bad for Computers.

And to top it all off when I called Samsung and told them, this HLR is worse for computers than my 2 year old HLN and I wanted to trade for an old refurb, they seemed to get irritated that I was complaining about this great new TV they gave me. Gee thanks....

-Valkyrie-MT
Samsung HL-R4667W

How are you setting "GAME" mode? Is it available on Svideo or just component inputs?

-Valkyrie-MT
Samsung HL-R4667W

I've never had that lamp issue, sounds like your set needs to be serviced.



I have an HL-R5667w, with an Xbox 360 (component), PS2 (component) and GC (S-video) all hooked up. The 360, outputting 720p, never lags in the least. With the PS2, I noticed some lag in 480i (not p) until I set the mode to GAME, now it's perfect, even for twitch-demanding games like Guitar Hero or Dance Dance Revolution. The GC lags a bit (less on 480p games than 480i), but it's rarely even noticeable. None of my friends can even tell, I guess I'm just picky about it.

So, the short answer to your question is the X360 is perfectly fine, and the PS3 should be fine as well. The only lag is from lower res interlaced sources, and the "GAME" mode helps those issues a lot.

I've never had that lamp issue, sounds like your set needs to be serviced.



I have an HL-R5667w, with an Xbox 360 (component), PS2 (component) and GC (S-video) all hooked up. The 360, outputting 720p, never lags in the least. With the PS2, I noticed some lag in 480i (not p) until I set the mode to GAME, now it's perfect, even for twitch-demanding games like Guitar Hero or Dance Dance Revolution. The GC lags a bit (less on 480p games than 480i), but it's rarely even noticeable. None of my friends can even tell, I guess I'm just picky about it.

So, the short answer to your question is the X360 is perfectly fine, and the PS3 should be fine as well. The only lag is from lower res interlaced sources, and the "GAME" mode helps those issues a lot.

I received my HL-R5067W a month ago. Before purchasing, I was also worried about its possible lag with gaming systems from reading reviews. So the first thing I did when I received the TV was to set it up with my Gamecube. I was pleasantly surprised that I (and the kids) did NOT notice any lag when playing Super Smash Brothers Melee, Mario Cart: Double Dash and several other games on the Gamecube connected via S-Video(480i). I also tried the "Game" mode by setting the input's label to "Game". The PQ did not look as sharp and vivid in the "Game" mode (I think this is due to the fact that in this mode, several video processing stages are skipped.) Since I did not experience any lag in the first place, I set the label back to nothing. Overall, I am very happy with my purchase. The only thing I have not been able to get it to work so far is the TV Guide for OTA. I will give Samsung a call later today on that issue.

I'm not an expert on Powerstrip, but I did get it working... so I thought I would post a few images to try to illustrate how to set it up.

Go to Display Profiles -> Configure... You should see this: (except under the options in my screenshot, I am using a custom display driver so it says HL-R4667W VGA, but you should see Default Display or something similar):

http://img462.imageshack.us/img462/3221/19oc1.th.jpg (http://img462.imageshack.us/my.php?image=19oc1.jpg)

Now, click advanced timing options and you should see this:

http://img462.imageshack.us/img462/7023/26nn.th.jpg (http://img462.imageshack.us/my.php?image=26nn.jpg)

Click custom resolutions, select used-defined and enter all the settings in this image and click add new resolution. Instead of typing, you could also try to copy this to the clipboard:

start select here ----->
PowerStrip timing parameters:
1232x693=1232,96,136,200,693,14,4,35,74550,3

Generic timing details for 1232x693:
HFP=96 HSW=136 HBP=200 kHz=45 VFP=14 VSW=4 VBP=35 Hz=60

VESA detailed timing details:
PClk=74550.00 H.Active=1232 H.Blank=432 H.Offset=80 HSW=136 V.Active=693 V.Blank=53 V.Offset=14 VSW=4

Linux modeline parameters:
"1232x693" 74.550 1232 1328 1464 1664 693 707 711 746 -hsync +vsync

<------- End Select here

Then click paste in Powerstrip (the button is on the bottom right of the window)

http://img462.imageshack.us/img462/3030/31sr.th.jpg (http://img462.imageshack.us/my.php?image=31sr.jpg)

Click Close, OK. Then select your new resolution as shown here:

http://img105.imageshack.us/img105/7510/45nl1.th.jpg (http://img105.imageshack.us/my.php?image=45nl1.jpg)

Good Luck,
-Valkyrie-MT


Well, for the last month, I have been using my HLR as a computer display with no overscan and 1:1 pixel mapping because problem #3 and #4 (shown below) have been resolved... Bascially, problem #4 was resolved when Samsung replaced my light engine. Problem #3 was resolved with the "Powerstrip" program which is free to try (I went ahead and bought it). No more cut off startbar or clock in windows and no distortions!

I'll try to recall exactly what I did here:


Connect your TV to your computer via VGA input on TV and switch to "PC" source.
Set your TV to "WideTV" mode using the P.Size button on the remote. (WideTV is the only mode that gives you a 1:1 pixel mapping)
Download and Install Powerstrip and setup a custom resolution using these settings shown in this picture here (http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/8650/hlrpowerstripconfig1cz.jpg)
Go into the TV menu and select Setup -> PC -> AutoAdjustment
Then, you probably will have to adjust the position in the TV menu at Setup -> PC -> Position. Note: your TV will show a resolution of 1280x720 @60Hz. That's because the graphics card actually sends a 1280x720 resolution to the TV, but blacks-out where the overscan is. If you cannot get it centered, you may have to have Samsung come out to access your Service menu to adjust it more.
Also, I made a display driver for the HL-R4667W (can probably be used for any HL-RXX67) but I don't think it is necessary.
Also, to make sure you actually have achieved a 1:1 mapping, you can use the image below as a test image. Set it as you windows background in tile mode. The top 1/3 of the image should look like a grey (and it may seem to flicker a little, but I think it's ok). Also, if you switch to WidePC mode, you should see the distortions in the test pattern to see the benefit of the 1:1 pixel mapping.


Note: When your computer is rebooted, during the bootup, the TV will say "unsupported mode" for about 10 seconds (longer if Powerstrip you are using the Trial version of Powerstrip). This is normal. The custom resolution is unsupported until powerstrip starts up...

I know this is kind of a brief write up, but I'm kinda busy these days...
Ultimately, the HL-R's HD4 DLP chip with wobulation (aka Cinema Smooth) makes for an image that is less sharp than previous HD2 based TV's, but it's tolerable when configured optimally.

Good Luck everyone! And let me know if anyone ever achieves this with the nVidia drivers. Also, I already notified nVidia of the issue. Thanks to alangant for prodding me into finding a solution and for some advice.
-Valkyrie-MT

http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/8650/hlrpowerstripconfig1cz.th.jpg (http://img118.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hlrpowerstripconfig1cz.jpg)

Mark Rejhon's Test Pattern to see if you are getting a 1:1 pixel mapping:
http://img393.imageshack.us/img393/5083/digitaltestpatternbymark3dl.th.gif (http://img393.imageshack.us/my.php?image=digitaltestpatternbymark3dl.gif)

Note: You assume all liabilities by performing this procedure on your TV and computer.

You can go blind reading all these threads. I just bout this 2005 56" from private party and I can't figure out the sound issues. On the set up menu the option for digital out is set at pcm and the option is greyed out and won't let me change it to dolby digital. I'm using a optical cable from the cable box to my reciever and the sound that we hear from the stereo sounds all distorted like simulated surround sound. Anybody have any suggestions? Can I re-set all the options to factory specs ant start over? I think the previous owner was using the hdmi cable and he has re-set some of the settings.

Please Help

I just bout this 2005 56" from private party and I can't figure out the sound issues. On the set up menu the option for digital out is set at pcm and the option is greyed out and won't let me change it to dolby digital. I'm using a optical cable from the cable box to my reciever and the sound that we hear from the stereo sounds all distorted like simulated surround sound.
Please Help

First of all, if you're planning on connecting the Cable box directly to your receiver via optical cable then you won't be needing the speakers in your DLP. You should turn them off in the TV's setup menu. I'm guessing you have a 5.1 Dolby Digital speaker setup. Your receiver should probably be set to A.F.D. (auto-format decode) as to not alter the original sound of the audio. You can still tweak the level and eq settings on most receivers. I happen to have a Sony receiver. It has settings like hall, cinema, etc but I find they really change the audio in a way I find unappealing. I set it to Auto-Decode.

Please specify your exact brand/model receiver and cable box so we can help you further.

Thanks for the info....I think I figured it out. If I had the dlp speakers on & turned up then I get this simulated delayed sound because the tv & receiver are not in sync. If I turn the TV sound off then everything sounds great on the stereo.

On another note have you heard of people that have the samsung dlp's report that occassionally their picture just goes blank? It's like the bulb turns off but the sound continues. This has happened a few times to us and if we simply turn the tv off & back on everything is fine. There is no apparent pattern like heat/vibration/time of day etc.

I'm about to call samsung for warranty repair but since I'm the second owner with no receipt they may not fix it under the original warranty (the tv was mfg. in Oct. 2005 so it's still not a year old)

Well I hope you have better luck with their customer service than I have had. My tv HLR5667W is 10 months old and it hasn't worked in almost 5 weeks. I am on my second repair center and Samsung is jerking me around. This is the worst customer service I have ever dealt with. I wouldnt buy another Samsung product for anything. I was thinking about sending the moderator a breakdown of my experience with Samsung and see if he would post it, its a day by day account with Samsung and the service centers and how they lie or say their is nothing they can do about it. I am going to have a stroke dealing with these people. Sorry to rant but I am very upset with the whole ordeal!

I ordered a standby replacement lamp for my HLR5668W just to have one on hand in an emergency. After I installed it this morning to verify that it was in working order, the TV would not turn back on (3 blinking lights on the front). I removed and reinstalled it again to make sure that all the connections were secure. They were, but the TV still wouldn't turn on; so I reinstalled the original lamp. Same problem.

I then called Sammy. After I explained the problem to the Sammy CSR, she told me that by opening the TV to change the lamp, I had "voided the warranty." That's one that I've never encountered before. Because she agreed to set up a service call, I didn't pick a fight with her over that absurd reading of the warranty. I'm now in touch with the local Sammy service company trying to set up an appointment.

Does anyone know how to fix this problem short of a service call?

considering the manual shows you how to change the lamp, i find what she told you to be very funny...

I am new here and I have tried to read through most of this thread as well as using the search feature. If this info has already been posted I apologize about asking again. With such a large thread it is hard to find things. I just got my Samsung HL-R5678W setup yesterday. I have a couple of questions about it. First off, is there a good guide to tweaking the settings to give you the best display other than that small guide in the owners manual? Second, has anyone else noticed pixelation when it shows solid colors. I was watching the ESPN HD channel last night and everytime it showed the outfield grass or the blue padded wall, there was so much pixelation that the picture was blurry.

I am new here and I have tried to read through most of this thread as well as using the search feature. If this info has already been posted I apologize about asking again. With such a large thread it is hard to find things. I just got my Samsung HL-R5678W setup yesterday. I have a couple of questions about it. First off, is there a good guide to tweaking the settings to give you the best display other than that small guide in the owners manual? Second, has anyone else noticed pixelation when it shows solid colors. I was watching the ESPN HD channel last night and everytime it showed the outfield grass or the blue padded wall, there was so much pixelation that the picture was blurry.

Try THIS THREAD (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=559872&page=1&pp=30) instead.

I am new here and I have tried to read through most of this thread as well as using the search feature. If this info has already been posted I apologize about asking again. With such a large thread it is hard to find things. I just got my Samsung HL-R5678W setup yesterday. I have a couple of questions about it. First off, is there a good guide to tweaking the settings to give you the best display other than that small guide in the owners manual? Second, has anyone else noticed pixelation when it shows solid colors. I was watching the ESPN HD channel last night and everytime it showed the outfield grass or the blue padded wall, there was so much pixelation that the picture was blurry.

ElAguila,
You have a couple of options to resolve that problem. You can enter the Service Menu and adjust the Index Delay (ENTER THE SERVICE MENU AT YOUR OWN RISK AND DO SO WITH CAUTION!) or you can have it calibrated by an ISF Certified Technician. The latter will cost you about $250-$300 for one input. Search any of the HLR threads for "Index" if you choose to do it yourself.

Thanks for the info. I think I have the problems resolved. I went into the stereo setup and changed the distance of the center speaker so it delays it just a little bit to wait on the other speakers and the surround speakers. That was just enough to put it in perfect sync.

Not sure if this is the right place for this but, the discrete code for the pip swap on the HLRs is 172. I don't know much about the discrete codes. But, I used a Radio Shack All-In-One to find it and then taught it to my 880. REMEMBER: You can not swap HDMI or PC inputs but, all others can be swapped.
Hope that helps someone......

Hey guys! I have an issue with changing channels from SD back to HD. It seems that most of the time the TV is not realizing it needs to change resolution and it puts the HD signal in a box (as if it were 16:9 on an SD channel). The only way to fix it is to change the channel to ESPN or ABC HD at which time it changes to HD and I can flip to any other HD channel. I'm assuming this has something to do with those being the only HD channels I get that are 720p. I have tried various settings on the Cox/SA 8300HD box but Cox assures me that it is a TV related issue... any thougts?

I have an HLR5668.

Does anyone know if the TV will accept a 1080p signal through HDMI?? I bought my tv on the assumption that it would accept a 1080p signal. Is it true??

I have an HLR5668.

Does anyone know if the TV will accept a 1080p signal through HDMI?? I bought my tv on the assumption that it would accept a 1080p signal. Is it true??

Bad assumption - sorry to say. It does NOT accept 1080p over HDMI. However, it will do so over VGA.

The 2006 HLS accepts 1080p over HDMI.

Got my Toshiba HD-A1 yesterday. Happy to report that it works fine with the Samsung HLR series TV thru HDMI right out of the box. I downloaded firmware 2.0 thru the box before I ever put a disk in. It took about 50 minutes.

Lip sync don't seem to be near as bad as the OPPO player I have. Around 20 -30ms I'd guess. At first I got what seemed like a weird echo during talking scenes. Checked my audio setup and couldn't find the problem until I remembered I had unmuted my TV speakers to watch HD OTA using the TV receiver. Then it occured to me that I was passing audio as well as video thru HDMI. I also had an optical cable connected to my receiver. Muted the TV and everything was fine.

I've recently downloaded the Fall Update for my XBox 360, which is currently hooked up to Samsung HLR-6178 via component (with digital audio to Denon 3805). Picture quality is very good.

But i am curious - could it be even better thru VGA? Especially with HD-DVD coming out soon?

If so, anyone have a complete list of settings to maximize pq (not only contrast/brightness, but resolution settings, etc)?

i would truly appreciate it. thanks in advance...