I've recently downloaded the Fall Update for my XBox 360, which is currently hooked up to Samsung HLR-6178 via component (with digital audio to Denon 3805). Picture quality is very good.

But i am curious - could it be even better thru VGA? Especially with HD-DVD coming out soon?

If so, anyone have a complete list of settings to maximize pq (not only contrast/brightness, but resolution settings, etc)?

i would truly appreciate it. thanks in advance...

For maximum PQ it goes something like this

HDMI > DVI > VGA > Component

Hi guys,

I am looking for some advice in regards to my purchase of a Samsung DLP. I have skimmed the HL-S threads for some time now, and done my homework pretty good, but could always use some more input.

I was all set to purchase a HL-S6187 very soon, and in the end after tax, a stand, and 3 year extended warranty, I would have spent about the same amount as 2,650 Wendy's value menu cheeseburgers :)

I normally wouldn't have thought about buying a 'used' set, however, I came across another home theater enthusiast who has a pretty killer deal being offered to me (same cost as only 1,500 Wendy's value menu cheeseburgers !!!). He has a HL-R5668 set that he bought in March '06 when he moved into his new house. The set is pristine (I'd basically call it nearly new to be honest), has never been moved since delivery, has the Samsung stand, double the factory warranty due to purchase with an AMEX card, has original receipt and paperwork. Bought it from ButterFly Photo, who seems to be a reputable and authorized Samsung dealer. Since it's still under factory warranty, I'd be able to buy an additional extended warranty on the set, which is a huge concern to me. I have gone and viewed the set in both HD and SD, and even hooked up my HTPC to it and ran some test patterns and HD movies. Everything checks out quite nicely, and this seems like a great way for me to get a fantastic set and price. The gentleman was able to answer all my questions and concerns, and is only selling the set to move up to a 61" Samsung actually, as he is going to be having a custom cabinet built for his home theater, and wants the bigger set to sit flush with the measurements in a particular area of the home.

The price difference is very large, and I'd be able to save a big chunk of change, as you can see. That is large concern to me right now. I haven't had a chance yet to read up on the HL-R sets, so I'm hoping people will be able to give me feedback, and I'd like to hear what YOU would do if you were in this situation. Also, I am planning to have set calibrated early next year.

1. Am I losing any "real world" picture quality by going with an HL-R vs an HL-S ? My sources will mostly be Cox Cable HD, and a HTPC for DVD playback.

2. Is the color wheel different from the HL-S one, in amount of color segments or RPMs ?

3. Since I am interested in using the set as a HTPC a fair amount of the time, can the HL-R do 1x1 pixel mapping like the HL-S series can ? Can under/over scan be defeated ? If not, can I still use "PowerStrip" to make a custom resolution and have 1x1 mapping on the HL-R series ? Today I hooked my HTPC up to it via the VGA input, and it had underscan, but still looked pretty decent. I tried hitting the P.Zoom button, but it wouldn't let me change anything, except going to 4:3 mode instead of Wide. I wasn't able to zoom the picture and fill the screen.

Thanks so much for reading. Please give me your comments - I need some guidance :o

I haven't been able to play my PS2 on my HLP because of the video lag and was wondering if the PS3 would be the same.

Anyone tried it yet?

I haven't been able to play my PS2 on my HLP because of the video lag and was wondering if the PS3 would be the same.

Anyone tried it yet?

if you set the ps3 to 720p, you should have no problems whatsoever with lag...It only is a problem with older ps2 games played on the ps3 if they are not 480p compatible and run at 480i..

I am quite upset as well, Has anyone been able to get Samsung to either replace their set, or upgrade it in some way? I am sick of having to basically limit my game play because Samsung messed up on their sets.

To confirm the post a few osts above.

If I understand, Although the PS3 can play Blu-Ray and display 1080p, there are several output options to display 1080p - HDMI & Component video.

Did i read a prior post correctly and that this TV will not be able to accept a 1080 signal either via the Component or HDMI ports? And the highest resolution would be 1080i/720p -depending upon the source (Blu Ray DVD (1080i) vs video game (720p))?

Is this correct?
Thanks

To confirm the post a few osts above.

If I understand, Although the PS3 can play Blu-Ray and display 1080p, there are several output options to display 1080p - HDMI & Component video.

Did i read a prior post correctly and that this TV will not be able to accept a 1080 signal either via the Component or HDMI ports? And the highest resolution would be 1080i/720p -depending upon the source (Blu Ray DVD (1080i) vs video game (720p))?

Is this correct?
Thanks
According to the specs on the Samsung web site (http://www.samsung.com/Products/TV/DLPTV/HLR6168WXXAA.asp?page=Specifications) for this model, it will accept 1080i via the Component inputs. It does not specify what signals it will accept via HDMI.

The set will accept 1080i over HDMI. The only way to get 1080p into the set is via VGA.

The set will accept 1080i over HDMI. The only way to get 1080p into the set is via VGA.

I just started using my HLR 6168 as a monitor for my PC (have been playing movies in 1080p for a while now). However, I am noticing that the text is quite blurry and out of focus even at 1600x1200.

Does anyone know how to fix this?

Many thanks!

I just started using my HLR 6168 as a monitor for my PC (have been playing movies in 1080p for a while now). However, I am noticing that the text is quite blurry and out of focus even at 1600x1200.

Does anyone know how to fix this?

Many thanks!

I run my HTPC @ 1920x1080 and I find text to be blurry as well. I did make the icons & text larger thru windows controls, but the text still isn't very well defined. Movies & OTA HD play fine with good definition, but windows text isn't what I'd like.

I run my HTPC @ 1920x1080 and I find text to be blurry as well. I did make the icons & text larger thru windows controls, but the text still isn't very well defined. Movies & OTA HD play fine with good definition, but windows text isn't what I'd like.

Thanks for the reply... Anyone have any ideas on who we can call to try to get an answer....?

Hello, i've tried some of the tips mentioned here, but still having problems with my setup. It's an hp dv6000t with 945gm onboard video -> vga cable -> hlr4667w.

1. There's noticable banding on all the p.size options.

2. Can't change refresh in powerstrip, if i do the connection to the dlp dropout. Something unsupported.

3. It's not allowing me to use custom resolutions. Button is greyed out.


Anyone care to share tips for us intel graphics users?

Banding is caused by the use of AC power. Everytime i use the AC adapter it starts and dissapears when using battery power.

About Powerstrip, do i have to get a license to use the custom resolution function?

I think 1080P looks absolutely gorgeous on these things.

My friend has one at his computer looks fine at 1600 x 1200

This question may have been asked here before but I am getting too many hits trying to search for it.
Question is, now that we have the DVD players with 1080p output, is there any way to get this into the Samsung HLR6167W which only supports 1080p thru the VGA port. Would it work if you have a PC with a HD drive and a VGA connection to the TV? Would the quality be on par with a true 1080p connection thru HDMI?
Thanks.

Since the signal from the disk has to be upconverted to 1080p, you could just take the 1080i from the player and upconvert to 1080p in the set.

I don't see any advantage upconverting in the player over the set.

Also, if it is a film, most sets will remove the 3:2 pulldown and give you a progressive image.

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I'm having a cable card issue with my HLR5668w. Time Warner updated their cable card software and I lost a bunch of my channels. I've tried a reset on the TV, had TWC out 3 times and still missing channels. Anyone else?

I have digital value tier and encore.

All encore channels except 1 are missing
Noggin, Speed, and a few other digital tier channels are missing.

time warner told me my TV needs a firmware update, I contacted Samgsung.. they said no update necessary or available, possible service issue. I dont understand what could be wrong with my TV to be doing this right when they did an update. Anybody else having this problem with TWC?

I have a HLR5078 purchased 18 months ago. The light engine and the digital modules required replacement within the last 4 months; all covered by a Samsung warranty extension. I have been having problems with color in the darker areas of the picture. This is especially bad for facial tones. Skin color turns red to purple. No amount of color or brightness seems to effect it. When the tech installed the new light engine, he did not calibrate. Could this be the source of the problem. Any coments or ideas would be greatly appreciate. Fred 123

I have a HLR5078 purchased 18 months ago. The light engine and the digital modules required replacement within the last 4 months; all covered by a Samsung warranty extension. I have been having problems with color in the darker areas of the picture. This is especially bad for facial tones. Skin color turns red to purple. No amount of color or brightness seems to effect it. When the tech installed the new light engine, he did not calibrate. Could this be the source of the problem. Any coments or ideas would be greatly appreciate. Fred 123According to the service manual, when the Digital Board was changed, the tech should have checked and, if necessary, adjusted the S/W Version, Index Delay, Actuator Gain, V & H Positions and the CCA. When the light engine was changed, the tech should have checked and, if necessary, adjusted the Front LCD (no idea what that is), Index Delay, Actuator Gain, V & H Positions, CCA and Tilt Focus. Also, depending on whether the Optical Engine or Digital Board is changed, data should be copied either DMD to Digital or Digital to DMD. (Since you have had both changed, I'd GUESS you'd need the DMD to Digital transfer, but that is a GUESS.) All of these adjustments require entry into the Service Menu. Ajusting the CCA requires special equipment. All of these adjustments are explained in the Service Manual. You can order one directly from Samsung Parts: Service Manual (http://www.samsungparts.com/part_detail.asp?catalog%5Fname=Parts+and+Accessories&category%5Fname=&product%5Fid=SM%2DHLR5678W)

In regard to the posted picture, it looks as if the Index Delay might need adjusting. If you are not familiar with the Service Menu, you might want to have a Tech out to do it. It is not a difficult adjustment but does require entering the service menu. Here's the section of the service manual that describes adjusting the Index Delay. (Edit: I remembered another adjustment that could also lead to this issue in a low light situation. I have found that the Gamma setting of 2 (default) can cause this problem. It can mitigated by changing Gamma to 0.)

A wrong move in the service menu could "brick" your display. Write down service menu setting before changing them. Use at your own risk.

anyone try using Digital Video Essentials to calibrate their set? After I adjusted the color using the blue filter, the red looked correct, but the green did not (through the red and green filters). according to the manual this is an indication the color decoder is not working correctly. I call BB, and the service tech in turn called Samsung. Samsung said " we don't support DVE". any suggestions?

anyone try using Digital Video Essentials to calibrate their set? After I adjusted the color using the blue filter, the red looked correct, but the green did not (through the red and green filters). according to the manual this is an indication the color decoder is not working correctly. I call BB, and the service tech in turn called Samsung. Samsung said " we don't support DVE". any suggestions?
This is not unusual for these sets. Green seems to always be off. Best I have seen with any calibration disk or signal generator is blue dead on, red a little off and green way off. I have unsuccessfully tried by trail-and-error to use various controls in the service menu to over come this problem for the HDMI, component and VGA inputs. There appears to be controls within the service menu that will independently adjust the decoder's green and red for S-video and composite inputs but I did not spend enough time to completely figure out how they worked.

Edit: I asked a question concerning this problem in the calibration thread some while back. In summary, one set of responses indicated that even though the decoder error in green appears to be large, it might not make a lot of difference in what you see. The reason has to do with the fact that the eye is most sensitive to "brightness" when viewing green (i.e., when viewing green and blue of equal radiant power, green will seem brighter) but much more sensitive to color error when viewing blue (i.e, most people will recognize an error in blue before realizing an equal error in green). So, it is best to get blue correct. FWIW.

I guess that is why the THX calibration section on DVDs have you adjust blue.

I had this posted in another thread bu nobody has replied thus far so I am breaking th cardinal rule and putting it here as well. I encountered a problem the other day when I was watching satellite via component (HDMI is used by DVD player on my 6167W) and I lost the picture. The screen went black but I could hear sound through my receiver. I changed the channel and I had a picture. Okay, probably a broadcast issue. A while later while at my laptop I looked back at the TV and had the message that there was no signal or signal was weak (like when you change between inputs but nothing is being sent to it). I took both my DVD player and my PS2 and hooked them up to both of the component inputs and had no results. S-Video, HDMI, RCA work fine...just not component. From the time I have searched I haven't seen anyone talk about any problem like this. Has anyone experienced something similar and found a solution?

I have also created another problem because I am an idiot. Worse than the previous really because I could always buy a DVI to HDMI cable and HDMI selector to create a workaround for the previous problem. I entered the SM and started to browse as it was the first time ever seeing a SM and was curious but not dangerously so...to a certain extent. After checking some things such as the Index Delay and others that I had seen posted here (mine is defaulted to 43) I saw the Engine selection under the service tab. Out of curiousity I decided to see what options there were (thinking that I could just view options like in a pulldown menu or something).... hehem... Mistake. Curiousity killed the cat as they say. On my 6167W when I hit the left arrow on the remote the screen flipped upside down and it appeared to say Zeiss as opposed to Samsung. I hit back right and got it back to 'normal'. Hitting right continually does 'nothing' except a flicker resulting in the same 'image' of the Engine: SAMSUNG in the top left. I figured after that I had done enough browsing and exited out. I never saw any mention of a 'save' for people who adjusted Index Delay just a quick off/on. I saw the User Reset and all that stuff but just wanted to get out without bothering anything. The issue is now the light blue input info (i.e. Component, HDMI, etc. when you were to hit the Source button for example) along with my image is big time screen door. I can clearly see the pixels from 6 feet away. It was immediately evident when I saw the input info. What have I done and is there any way to do a complete factory reset to resolve it and/or another method that would not disturb other things (i.e. lamp life which is at 4747 hrs BTW) MAN, WHAT A JACKASS!!!!!!

Do you think this could solve my issue: if I were to 'change' the Engine from one back to the other and then do a User Reset? I don't know what really happens if you just exit out of the menu without doing a User Reset say for Index Delay. I am a total newbie (I know, shouldn't play with fire. Everyone reading I am sure is like, "what a moron") to the SM so if someone wrote a walkthru for this series of TV and the SM please guide me to it as I will read with enthusiasm. The service manual may only take me so far. If I can get my TV back to the non screen door effect then I will quietly go by a couple of rather inexpensive components and solve my issue by going strictly HDMI (although this won't solve my issue for my PS2 unless I buy another cable for that...)

Lastly, I have a call into Samsung and they put in a V.O.C. and I am supposed to receive a call in 3-5 days. It seems a lot of techs out there don't know much of what they are doing either.

According to the service manual, when the Digital Board was changed, the tech should have checked and, if necessary, adjusted the S/W Version, Index Delay, Actuator Gain, V & H Positions and the CCA. When the light engine was changed, the tech should have checked and, if necessary, adjusted the Front LCD (no idea what that is), Index Delay, Actuator Gain, V & H Positions, CCA and Tilt Focus. Also, depending on whether the Optical Engine or Digital Board is changed, data should be copied either DMD to Digital or Digital to DMD. (Since you have had both changed, I'd GUESS you'd need the DMD to Digital transfer, but that is a GUESS.) All of these adjustments require entry into the Service Menu. Ajusting the CCA requires special equipment. All of these adjustments are explained in the Service Manual. You can order one directly from Samsung Parts: Service Manual (http://www.samsungparts.com/part_detail.asp?catalog%5Fname=Parts+and+Accessories&category%5Fname=&product%5Fid=SM%2DHLR5678W)

In regard to the posted picture, it looks as if the Index Delay might need adjusting. If you are not familiar with the Service Menu, you might want to have a Tech out to do it. It is not a difficult adjustment but does require entering the service menu. Here's the section of the service manual that describes adjusting the Index Delay. (Edit: I remembered another adjustment that could also lead to this issue in a low light situation. I have found that the Gamma setting of 2 (default) can cause this problem. It can mitigated by changing Gamma to 0.)

A wrong move in the service menu could "brick" your display. Write down service menu setting before changing them. Use at your own risk.


Not that I needed this fix (hopefully never), I just wanted to point out that this poster went out of their way to help, and I for one wanted to recognize that. The essence of these forums is this great helpfulness!

Kudos,
Wirelessbitz

I had this posted in another thread ...I can respond to a couple of your questions, but nothing that I have to say will help with your problems. Sorry about that...

1. There is not a save function with the service menu. The act of exiting a parameter setting page, saves that parameter.

2. According to the Service manual, with the "User Reset" parameter "All user settings are set to default." Normally we think of "user settings" as those done in the User Menus, not the service menus. Thus, to me, it seems as if the User Reset parameter would accomplish the same thing as entering and exiting the service menu, which resets all User Menus to default.

I played with the User Reset parameter in my HL-R5678 when I first got the set (back in early 2006). Selecting the User Reset button did not change any of the SM settings that I had previously changed as part of a calibration. Nor did User Reset change any of the settings in the SM from the "original" values. But, OTOH, what have you got to loose by trying it.

3. I have never experienced the black screen issue and do not remember a previous post concerning the problem.

4. Could you possibly post a photo of the "screen door" problem? Just curious...

Thanks for the reply donb. I feel a bit better now in the fact that I got a reply even though it doesn't solve my problem. The information you offer is...well...very informative! The black screen issue I still believe was a broadcast issue because once I changed the channel it was fine. I just don't know how long after that I had basically lost the input signal to the component jacks (which still are not working). Currently I have my Bell ExpressVu receiver hooked using s-video. Ugh. I should have a DVI to HDMI cable and HDMI selector switch by next week. I was trying to hold out to buy a new receiver with a couple of HDMI ports but that is still a ways away. Anyway, back on subject. I don't have access to my digital camera right now but I should by the end of the night. I will try to take a pic or two. Granted, it will have to be from close up and typically one might say it's 'normal' to see pixels from that close. From my experience, not to this extent on this particular TV. As well, I noticed the change immediately. It's like if you heard a new noise when driving your car. I may get in your car and not hear a thing but YOU know something is not right. Do you think by toggling that Engine option I could have damaged the light engine or is that more of a 'computational' engine as opposed to a 'physical' engine (that is I believe the light engine to be something physical like a color wheel but I could be completely wrong. I haven't yet looked into it but like my old Mustang the only reason I learned about cars is because I had to replace everything on it as it broke.) Is the service manual available to download anywhere? I'd be interested to see if I can make sense of any jargon that may be in there.

Do you think by toggling that Engine option I could have damaged the light engine ... Is the service manual available to download anywhere? I have no idea what the Engine parameter does. It is not listed in the Service Manual for my HL-R5678.

I have not found any free downloads for the service manual. They are generally available for purchase on the Samsung Parts (http://www.samsungparts.com/)web site.

There are descriptions/names of the various SM parameters in my Service Manual but for the most part the descriptions are useless in that they are lacking in details. If one is familiar with Service menus in general, the manual might be more useful. Otherwise, I would not expect the service manual to help much in deciphering the service menu.

I wasn't able to get my camera last night but I should get it tonight. I decided to go back in and try the User Reset function after I had played with the Engine 'toggle' again. It does what the service manual says it does. It completely resets all the user made settings as if you just took it out of the box. What it didn't do though was solve my screen door issue. I did see something interesting though. When toggling left on the Engine selection it proceded to flip the image upside down and the Engine went from SAMSUNG to ZEISS as expected; however, that writing was 'clear' in comparison to what I have now. When I say clear I mean to really cannot decipher the pixels as they are 'smudged' together. Basically, this is how my display was before I played with this. Unfortunately, unless I want to watch TV on my head it is not a good option to leave it like this. So, it is a bit perplexing as to what is actually happening when you 'adjust' the Engine option.

Check to see if you have a menu in the SM titled DDP1011 or something like it. On my HL-R, there is a parameter in this menu called "V-Flip." The service manual says it does a "Vertical Flip Operation." This might give you a viewable picture when in ZEISS mode. I have never tried this. So, no guarantees. And as always, try at your own risk.

No big deal about the photo. I'm just curious.

[QUOTE=localmotion00;12213445]I had this posted in another thread bu nobody has replied thus far so I am breaking th cardinal rule and putting it here as well. I encountered a problem the other day when I was watching satellite via component (HDMI is used by DVD player on my 6167W) and I lost the picture. The screen went black but I could hear sound through my receiver. I changed the channel and I had a picture. Okay, probably a broadcast issue. A while later while at my laptop I looked back at the TV and had the message that there was no signal or signal was weak (like when you change between inputs but nothing is being sent to it). I took both my DVD player and my PS2 and hooked them up to both of the component inputs and had no results. S-Video, HDMI, RCA work fine...just not component. From the time I have searched I haven't seen anyone talk about any problem like this. Has anyone experienced something similar and found a solution?
QUOTE]

Interesting - I won't comment on the rest of your issues, but the component issue is definately something I am having problems with.

I have an HLR5067W and for almost 2 years now I have had troublefree use of the TV. Looks beautiful and gets major use (don't know the hours, doesn't really matter) but my component 2 video in is acting goofy. I have a cable box hooked to the HDMI input and a DVD player to component 1 and a Wii box to component 2. The Wii started acting goofy and would black out in certain parts, did some websearching and contacted Nintendo thinking it was the Wii. Got the new Wii and Component 2 did the same thing.

Now here is my point of genious - I put the Wii on component 1 and the issues went away, no more black/blank screen at certain points of a game ( I do believe where it is 480P). I then put the DVD player on component 2 and got nothing but a blank screen and the blue bar in the center that says something about no signal.

The good news is that I still have the BB warranty on the TV and I will get them to come out and take a look at it.

Has anyone else here had an issue with component going out on these TV's? or just not liking a 480P signal?

donb, sorry i havent posted that photo. been busy. i downloaded the sm from servicemanuals.com. unfortunately it is really for the HLR5067W but encompasses all the HLRxx67W series. I did see the V-flip and H-flip in the SM. I assume you may have found the reference to the Engine in your SM although maybe not since you have a 78 series. In my SM it is in section 3-3 #13. I had read a small post on another forum about the Zeiss engine also but no real info. It is an option that I considered although I don't know what the retributions are. I would really like to find out from someone who really knows 1) what the difference is between the two 2) what possible things could go wrong by doing this. It seems though a lot of the technicians don't seem to know much either. I think it may be the analog board why the components dont work and my s-video seems to be sporadic as well. Someone else had posted the same situation but there was no reply. Take a look at the pics I have attached.

Thanks for the photos. Still have not a clue why the pixels are exaggerated.

Two interesting but useless things I have found: 1. "Zeiss engine" refers to the DMD board (Zeiss Board (http://www.partstore.com/Part/Samsung/Samsung/BP96-00678D.aspx?s=froogle)) and 2. The Zeiss board is not compatible with my HL-R5678.

When you say 'not compatible' what do you mean by that? Do you have an option in your SM to switch between the two? Also, where did you find that information? Was it in the SM?

On this page is a listing of the units that use the Zeiss Board in the previous post: Zeiss Compatible Listing (http://www.partstore.com/CompatibleModels/Samsung/Samsung/BP9600678D/New.aspx).

I discovered why the pixels were exagerated. It had to do with the gain. It was all the way down to 68! The default is 115. I brought it up and ended up settling at 92 because after that it starts to go back again. No my problem is that I can see a bit of light on the bottom right in the middle of the screen. I am assuming it is light reflecting from the mirror. At the very least I have a 'decent' picture now. I ended up buying an HDMI switch and have everything HDMI now cuz my component inputs still don't work. I could open the back and have a look see I suppose.

Curious again... Which gain?

you can find the part, BP96-00678D, on partstore.com

you can find, BP96-00678D, here at partstore.com. Partstore carries hundredes of parts for Samsung products.

Anyone having any issues with inputs not working? I can only get sound (no picture) when I hook my xbox to the component or av inputs. The hdmi and dvi inputs work normally. But, the bell xpressvu will work normally on the component inputs and the xbox will work normally on a different tv or when I hook it to the back of the xpressvu reciever. I have used the xbox on this tv for two years before this issue showed up. I have read some similiar issues on this thread but never any solutions. Thanks for now.

Chris Therrien

Anyone having any issues with inputs not working? I can only get sound (no picture) when I hook my xbox to the component or av inputs. The hdmi and dvi inputs work normally. But, the bell xpressvu will work normally on the component inputs and the xbox will work normally on a different tv or when I hook it to the back of the xpressvu reciever. I have used the xbox on this tv for two years before this issue showed up. I have read some similiar issues on this thread but never any solutions. Thanks for now.

Chris Therrien

I've had my HL-R5067 for a little over 2 years and have had no problems (knock on wood) whatsoever.

Anyone having any issues with inputs not working? I can only get sound (no picture) when I hook my xbox to the component or av inputs. The hdmi and dvi inputs work normally. But, the bell xpressvu will work normally on the component inputs and the xbox will work normally on a different tv or when I hook it to the back of the xpressvu reciever. I have used the xbox on this tv for two years before this issue showed up. I have read some similiar issues on this thread but never any solutions. Thanks for now.

Chris Therrien

Ironically I just had a best buy repair person at my house for a similar issue, HLR5067W. My component inputs do work, but they are flakey, they shift the screen and then will go black and a "unrecognized format" box will pop up and then it will come back. My Wii will do the same. I will get sound all of the time. The repair guy said it was the "analog processing board" that will need to be replaced, and put one on order. Don't know the cost or if it will work, but glad I purchased the 4 year PSP program, so no cost from me. He said that these TV's are actually pretty reliable and he rarely works on a Samsung. He also said that they are pretty easy to work on, there are only 4 main boards and a light engine. He said that they will just replace full assemblies (makes it easier on them)

Actually this TV has been rock solid for me and just started doing this about 4-5 months ago.

Does anyone know how to remove sources from the list so that when pressing the source button I don't have to go through the unused inputs?

Thanks,

Steve

Does anyone know how to remove sources from the list so that when pressing the source button I don't have to go through the unused inputs?

Thanks,

Steve

This is probably not what you want to hear Steve, but I very long ago replaced my standard remote(s) with a Harmony 880 and never looked back. With the Harmony you can go directly to each input with discrete codes. Something to consider if you are so inclined.

hi toadman50, did you get your tv fixed yet? I do not have the warranty so I will have to pay the bill for the repairs. I am interested to here the result of your repair.

Issue with my HLP4667WX... whenever i change my display settings (Brightness, contrast, etc)... after just a few minutes it reverts back to Standard... any idea how i can stop this?

Ok, first let me apologize if this question has already been asked. I've searched the forum and can't really find an answer. I bought one of these TV's two years ago with the premise that it was 1080p capable. I finally broke down recently and bought a Samsung BD-P1000 Blue Ray player. I updated the firmware on the player, hooked it up to the HDMI cable, and set the player to 1080p mode. Got the an error on the TV screen "Unsupported Mode". Thinking something was wrong with the player, I exchanged it but still got nothing to work any higher than 1080i our of the player. I've tried more than one HDMI cable but no luck. It looks like, from posts on this site, that others have this problem but I've not seen a solution. Your comments and help are greatly appreciated.

I posted this in another thread, but it seems people in this thread have been having similar problems. Anyone been able to get this fixed?

Hello all,

I've had my HL-R5667 since Feb 06 and it has been working great so far until recently. I noticed that my Component 2 input no longer works. Wierd thing is that it doesn't skip that input when scrolling through all the sources. The TV should skip over the input if there is nothing connected. So basically:

1. Connect a device to Component 2 and TV says "no signal"
2. Disconnect device from Component 2 and TV will still think there is something pluged in.

I've tried multiple devices and none of them work on Component 2, but work fine on Component 1. Tried doing the basic stuff like power cycling and unplugging for a while, but the issue persists. I'm still under warranty and CC sent out a local repair shop to look at it, but he didn't seem very confident in it being an easy fix. Anyone here experience similar issues and is it fixable?

Also... since my warranty is almost out, how do you go about getting a replacement lamp for the set? I'm still on my original bulb and CC said the warranty covered the bulb, but I want to try and get one as a backup even though the one I've got works fine for now. Have about 4500 hours on the set. Thanks guys!

Ok, first let me apologize if this question has already been asked. I've searched the forum and can't really find an answer. I bought one of these TV's two years ago with the premise that it was 1080p capable. I finally broke down recently and bought a Samsung BD-P1000 Blue Ray player. I updated the firmware on the player, hooked it up to the HDMI cable, and set the player to 1080p mode. Got the an error on the TV screen "Unsupported Mode". Thinking something was wrong with the player, I exchanged it but still got nothing to work any higher than 1080i our of the player. I've tried more than one HDMI cable but no luck. It looks like, from posts on this site, that others have this problem but I've not seen a solution. Your comments and help are greatly appreciated.

There is no solution because there is no problem. This TV is a 1080p TV (1920x1080 pixels) on the display but it will not accept 1080p on the HDMI. I wouldn't worry too much because the PQ is going to be excellent with 1080i out of your BluRay player.

I have a PS3 and it is just great with my HLR6168 @ 1080i.

Saying there is no solution because there is no problem is a bit ludacris. If the TV is 1080P, how could not being able to play 1080P signals be anything but a problem. And yes, there is a huge difference between 1080i and 1080p, which is why I spent the extra $500 back then to buy the higher end model. If I can't get 1080p through the HDMI, still don't understand why not, then what can I use to get 1080p?

Saying there is no solution because there is no problem is a bit ludacris. If the TV is 1080P, how could not being able to play 1080P signals be anything but a problem. And yes, there is a huge difference between 1080i and 1080p, which is why I spent the extra $500 back then to buy the higher end model. If I can't get 1080p through the HDMI, still don't understand why not, then what can I use to get 1080p?

Ludicrous or not - that is the situation. Looks to me like you made the purchase without knowing the limitations of the TV - admittedly, its somewhat easy to miss if you are not into this sort of a thing.

Your only option is to get rid of the TV and get another 1080p TV if its really a huge problem for you.

Having said that - in all the reviews I have read, there isn't a huge difference between 1080p and 1080i. The TV can de-interlace the signal and get to its native 1080p resolution and the PQ is fine.

There is little difference in the PQ between 1080p and 1080i. If you sit back a few feet from the set, I doubt many could see any difference.

Your model TV cannot accept 1080p on HDMI. Not in the design specs. Your set is performing as designed.

Assuming the TV deinterlaces properly, there is NO difference between P & i. Having said that, this series of TV does deinterlace very well.

This model of TV can only accept a 1080P input through the VGA port. The HDMI ports are limited to 1080i. I'm quite happy with my Hi Def sources displayed on my TV through HDMI.

The thing is that this is a first generation 1080P DLP and has it's faults. Subsequent years Samsung DLPs can accept 1080P in the HDMI port.

ok, so the only possibility of getting 1080p to work on this is through the VGA port? I really don't understand how I could have made a decision to buy a 1080p TV and not known the limitations. Apart from this forum, the limitations on this TV have not been made public. I researched through Cruchfield and Vanns before buying it. It was always presented as next-generation with 1080p. At that time, HD-DVD and Blue Ray hadn't been released so there was no way to test it out. I just took the sales people's word that it was a 1080p television. From looking at it now, its a 1080i TV and a 1080p monitor. Is there a way to get from the Blue Ray to the TV using the VGA port? The Blue Ray has component and HDMI, so perhaps an adapter of some sort?

ok, so the only possibility of getting 1080p to work on this is through the VGA port? I really don't understand how I could have made a decision to buy a 1080p TV and not known the limitations. Apart from this forum, the limitations on this TV have not been made public. I researched through Cruchfield and Vanns before buying it. It was always presented as next-generation with 1080p. At that time, HD-DVD and Blue Ray hadn't been released so there was no way to test it out. I just took the sales people's word that it was a 1080p television. From looking at it now, its a 1080i TV and a 1080p monitor. Is there a way to get from the Blue Ray to the TV using the VGA port? The Blue Ray has component and HDMI, so perhaps an adapter of some sort?

Frankly, I think you are fretting over nothing. It has been explained multiple times that there is hardly any difference between 1080i and 1080p when the TV de-interlaces properly.

Like I said before, if you still have to have 1080p, your only option is to change the TV or to get some sort of HDMI->VGA converter (which I have never heard of, but thats neither here nor there!). I am sure no BluRay player will output 1080p over Component but if they did I believe there are Component->VGA converters available - I have heard of people using this cable/converter to get over the video lag on HDMI on these sets while playing games.

Good luck.

AFAIK HDCP cant go over VGA so it would be pointless to do that. Even if you could do it, I'm sure you'd be very unhappy with the results. I can output 1080P VGA on my HTPC and downloaded 1080P content doesn't look as good as HD-DVD or BluRay.

You're urinating in the wind on this one. Either set the BD player to 1080i, or get a TV that will accept 1080P through HDMI.

My belief is that this bums you out so much you're not gonna be happy till you get a true 1080P TV. But before you do, watch your current setup at 1080i then try to compare it to the new TV, when you get it.

Nah... I'll live with it. Just annoyed that after waiting all this time to buy a Blue Ray, having the 1080p TV made no difference. I could have saved myself some money and bought a 1080i in 2006. It proves, that even with research, you still get took.

Nah... I'll live with it. Just annoyed that after waiting all this time to buy a Blue Ray, having the 1080p TV made no difference. I could have saved myself some money and bought a 1080i in 2006. It proves, that even with research, you still get took.

But you DO have a 1080p TV! It has the requisite number of pixels on the display and at the time it was released, the contrast ratio and other specs were much better than the 720p counterpart DLPs.

I clearly see a difference in PQ between the 720p and 1080p TVs. Enjoy the BluRay experience on your 1080p TV!

I have the Direct TV hr20-700 plugged into a pioneer elite 94-txh receiver via HDMI then out of the pioneer to a Samsung hlr-6178w via hdmi

The TV says no signal or weak signal. If I disconnect the HDMI cable going to the TV, the screen changes to "check plug." So the TV knows it has an hdmi plug and it knows which input on the back of the TV I am using.

The sound plays out of the receiver and the receiver shows the "HDMI" lit up, so the receiver is having no problems with this signal.

HAS ANYBODT been able to get this particular model TV to recognize the HDMI signal coming from a receiver??

If I plug an HD DVD player or the Direct TV receiver directly into the tv =I have no problems, but it defeates the purpose of having th receiver.

ANY help woul dbe greatly appreciated.

I have the Direct TV hr20-700 plugged into a pioneer elite 94-txh receiver via HDMI then out of the pioneer to a Samsung hlr-6178w via hdmi

The TV says no signal or weak signal. If I disconnect the HDMI cable going to the TV, the screen changes to "check plug." So the TV knows it has an hdmi plug and it knows which input on the back of the TV I am using.

The sound plays out of the receiver and the receiver shows the "HDMI" lit up, so the receiver is having no problems with this signal.

HAS ANYBODT been able to get this particular model TV to recognize the HDMI signal coming from a receiver??

If I plug an HD DVD player or the Direct TV receiver directly into the tv =I have no problems, but it defeates the purpose of having th receiver.

ANY help woul dbe greatly appreciated.

I have my HL-R5667W connected to my receiver and it is working fine. Both my ps3 and xbox360 are hdmi to my receiver and my receiver is hdmi to m tv. Everything works correctly, except for my component input 2 which has broken. I'm hoping Circuit City can't find the parts to fix it so I can get a new tv.

I have the Direct TV hr20-700 plugged into a pioneer elite 94-txh receiver via HDMI then out of the pioneer to a Samsung hlr-6178w via hdmi

The TV says no signal or weak signal. If I disconnect the HDMI cable going to the TV, the screen changes to "check plug." So the TV knows it has an hdmi plug and it knows which input on the back of the TV I am using.

The sound plays out of the receiver and the receiver shows the "HDMI" lit up, so the receiver is having no problems with this signal.

HAS ANYBODT been able to get this particular model TV to recognize the HDMI signal coming from a receiver??

If I plug an HD DVD player or the Direct TV receiver directly into the tv =I have no problems, but it defeates the purpose of having th receiver.

ANY help woul dbe greatly appreciated.

I have the same DTV Receiver & TV. My audio receiver is Yamaha RSV2600. I can connect it both ways. In fact, right now I have the HDMI output of the DTV Rec going to the TV and the audio optical going to the receiver. I mute the TV speakers & turn on the receiver when the audio is worth it (rare). But, I use a Harmony 880 to control everything so I really don't need the switching capabilties of the receiver as much as I used to.

Hi..I have been having some problems with my samsung HLR 5087W model.

would you guys say this is a DMD board problem? or just the color wheel?

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k176/danhs0supa/vietnam%202006/DSC00307.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k176/danhs0supa/vietnam%202006/DSC00307.jpg

I'd GUESS that it is not the color wheel. A busted color wheel usually is accompanied by mechanical failure type noise (cracking, grinding, squeals, etc.) from the display. With a misadjusted color wheel, the picture is typically present but the colors are obviously screwed up. As to which board has failed, i would not hazard a guess. FWIW.

Nah... I'll live with it. Just annoyed that after waiting all this time to buy a Blue Ray, having the 1080p TV made no difference. I could have saved myself some money and bought a 1080i in 2006. It proves, that even with research, you still get took.

You didnt do your research. I bought an HLR6168 in 2005. I knew before I bought it that it didn't accept a 1080P input on HDMI. I also knew that I wouldn't have any 1080P content until I got HD DVD and BD in 2006. This fact was never hidden with this TV. Fortunately it deinterlaces 1080i properly and produced a really good picture for being the first model using the 1080P wobulation chip.
My set has been relegated to bedroom duty. But I had all the tweaks possible with this set like being lined with Duvetyne so I don't plan on selling it.

Hey guys and gals, need a little help. I bought my HLR-5078 back in 2005 and it is just out of warranty.

I recently started to notice that the screen appears to be darker than normal. So i thought the bulb might be going. I ordered a replacement and installed it. No change. The screen also has a small flicker or a quick pulse.

The problem I am having is not the shadow issue. My screen is appearing dark. I checked all the settings and everything is normal.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

Greetings folks!

I wasnt sure where to post this, but this looked like the right place.

I have a HLR5667WX/XAA and all of a sudden, the HDMI input isnt working. Now this just happened, so I havent completely analyzed yet - but the problem may be kind of simple...

A. The other inputs work (input from Wii thank goodness :), DVD, VCR)
B. The input Im talking about is an HDMI-HDMI line from my Verizon FIOS box to the TV
C. The cable box RCA video out to "AV1" worked fine (be it in low def).

So what Im hoping is that (for some odd reason) its the HDMI output of the cable box, or the wire has gone bad. Both of these seem very unlikely, though, to go all of a sudden.

Of course what Im hoping is that theres nothing wrong with the TV.

Any ideas? My next move is to try a new HDMI cable tomorrow...

Greetings folks!

I wasnt sure where to post this, but this looked like the right place.

I have a HLR5667WX/XAA and all of a sudden, the HDMI input isnt working. Now this just happened, so I havent completely analyzed yet - but the problem may be kind of simple...

A. The other inputs work (input from Wii thank goodness :), DVD, VCR)
B. The input Im talking about is an HDMI-HDMI line from my Verizon FIOS box to the TV
C. The cable box RCA video out to "AV1" worked fine (be it in low def).

So what Im hoping is that (for some odd reason) its the HDMI output of the cable box, or the wire has gone bad. Both of these seem very unlikely, though, to go all of a sudden.

Of course what Im hoping is that theres nothing wrong with the TV.

Any ideas? My next move is to try a new HDMI cable tomorrow...

This is a common problem for this TV. The digital board is prolly bad.

This is a common problem for this TV. The digital board is prolly bad.

Thats what I thought, thanks so much. Two failures in one week, a flat panel computer display (bad transistors) - now this! :)

One more question for those of you in the know - now that my HDMI input is toast, what should I do? Just get a good set of component cables? Im assuming thats my only option at this point. Any hints to get best HD picture with those, or no brainer...?

Samsung BP9401859F Digital Control Board Assembly
Partstore.com

$471.38

Nah... I'll live with it. Just annoyed that after waiting all this time to buy a Blue Ray, having the 1080p TV made no difference. I could have saved myself some money and bought a 1080i in 2006. It proves, that even with research, you still get took.

There was a huge discussion about this when the TV was first released. At the time of release - there wasn't any options to get 1080P output other than a computer. Sony PS3, HD-DVD, BluRay were all over a year away.

So this system handles 1080i only - but up converts everything to 1080P.

OK. I have an HL-R5678W That I bought in 2006 and My warranty just recently Expired. I have been trying to do some research and all I was able to find was someone with a similar model having the same problem as me and the thread never shows a solution. I e-mailed the guy who was having the problem but no response so hopefully someone here may be able to help me.
About 3 months ago, my TV was shutting down and all 3 LED's were blinking. I called the warranty company and the sent a technician out to replace some Main Power Board. It would have been $180.00. The TV was working until recently.
Now, the TV is shutting off similar to what it was doing and Only the LED and Standby are flashing this time. It will shutoff, then I wait a couple seconds, and I can turn the TV back on. Then, who knows how long it will go before it shuts off again. I notice NO change in quality of picture or anything. I vacuumed out the back because I thought it might have been overheating and it still does this. Can anyone help me with this? Has this happened to anyone else?? Is this a lamp issue? This issue is really annoying...

Here is the thread where someone else was having a similar problem but There was no solution. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=721725

I'm having a similar problem. Unplugging the power seems to reset the TV and the problem goes away for a few days. On my set it can't possibly be an overheating issue cause sometimes the screen will go black after only like 5 seconds of power on after overnight cold soak. It's prolly more like a false error shutting off the LE.

OK. I have an HL-R5678W That I bought in 2006 and My warranty just recently Expired. I have been trying to do some research and all I was able to find was someone with a similar model having the same problem as me and the thread never shows a solution. I e-mailed the guy who was having the problem but no response so hopefully someone here may be able to help me.
About 3 months ago, my TV was shutting down and all 3 LED's were blinking. I called the warranty company and the sent a technician out to replace some Main Power Board. It would have been $180.00. The TV was working until recently.
Now, the TV is shutting off similar to what it was doing and Only the LED and Standby are flashing this time. It will shutoff, then I wait a couple seconds, and I can turn the TV back on. Then, who knows how long it will go before it shuts off again. I notice NO change in quality of picture or anything. I vacuumed out the back because I thought it might have been overheating and it still does this. Can anyone help me with this? Has this happened to anyone else?? Is this a lamp issue? This issue is really annoying...


I am having the exact same issue as you are describing (goes blank w/ 2 green lights flashing) and yes this is very annoying. I turn it off and then get worrisome about turning it back on for fear of overheating something. I have an HLR4266W bought in DEC 05. It has always been well ventilated and taken care of. I had to replace the lamp about 8 months ago but havent had this problem until recently. I am really not looking forward to spending more money on this set. Also, I cant believe $2,000 displays (what I spent at the time) are this unreliable. The picture has been fabulous but these issues are just lame. I'll try the unplugging route for now, but I feel like any day the thing may not come back on......*sigh*

Any help and/or knowledge of this problem would be greatly appreciated.

I've noticed a few other threads with this issue or similar. Maybe we should all get together on the same thread.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1089779

The problem I have with the 1080p and small sets has to do with the relatively coarse nature of most RP screens including the ones Samsung uses. At close distances the "sparklies" of the screen will become apparent. This is less of an issue with the larger sets because the user is far away, but to my knowledge the same material cut to a smaller size is used in the smaller sets.

Sparklies are one of those things us FP guys are sensitive to. Once you see them you can't stand them, which is funny because my eyesight isn't really Lasik quality.

-Mr. Wigggles

I own the HLR4266WX, and the screen's "sparklies" are the biggest drawback, IMO. Sure, the viewing angle is not so good, but that is to be expected with RP sets. My watching position is about 7 or 8 feet away. I watch Blu Ray movies using my PS3 connected via HDMI, and I calibrated the set using Digital Video Essentials on Blu Ray, and the set looks great! If only those little sparklies weren't so prevalent! Granted, they show up mostly in lighter scenes, but they're there, and annoying.

I wonder, is there any possible way to remove that, or at least lessen the effect? Or is it an unfortunate side-effect inherent in RPTVs?

OK. I have an HL-R5678W That I bought in 2006 and My warranty just recently Expired. I have been trying to do some research and all I was able to find was someone with a similar model having the same problem as me and the thread never shows a solution. I e-mailed the guy who was having the problem but no response so hopefully someone here may be able to help me.
About 3 months ago, my TV was shutting down and all 3 LED's were blinking. I called the warranty company and the sent a technician out to replace some Main Power Board. It would have been $180.00. The TV was working until recently.
Now, the TV is shutting off similar to what it was doing and Only the LED and Standby are flashing this time. It will shutoff, then I wait a couple seconds, and I can turn the TV back on. Then, who knows how long it will go before it shuts off again. I notice NO change in quality of picture or anything. I vacuumed out the back because I thought it might have been overheating and it still does this. Can anyone help me with this? Has this happened to anyone else?? Is this a lamp issue? This issue is really annoying...

Here is the thread where someone else was having a similar problem but There was no solution. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=721725
OK. I hope I am not speaking too soon. Last week, I opened the back of the TV, vacuumed everything out. Not sure what I vacuumed because it was spotless in there. removed the screws on the PCB on the left side that has all of the component connectors, pulled the pcb out about .125 Inches, vacuumed all around it, and put back in place. screwed everything back in place and the TV has not shut off since. I have no idea what the hell I did but it hasn't shut off. I figured I would let you all know what I did even though I have no idea what I did. haha. anyhow I hope this was the fix.

My good buddy has this very same issue (TV shutting down) in the last month and all he did was replaced the bulb and has not had a issue since. He owns the 46" version, but I don't think that should make a difference. Hope this helps.

Also I know this thread is slow since so many people have moved on, but has anyone had there HLR professionally calabrated? Personally I love this TV and really see no reason to upgrade till it's dead. That said I am serious considering get my set calabrated.

OK. I hope I am not speaking too soon. Last week, I opened the back of the TV, vacuumed everything out. Not sure what I vacuumed because it was spotless in there. removed the screws on the PCB on the left side that has all of the component connectors, pulled the pcb out about .125 Inches, vacuumed all around it, and put back in place. screwed everything back in place and the TV has not shut off since. I have no idea what the hell I did but it hasn't shut off. I figured I would let you all know what I did even though I have no idea what I did. haha. anyhow I hope this was the fix.

OK. What I did above seemed to work. I have been reading and researching heavily when the problem arose and I believe there is a sensor behind one of the back panel covers. These covers screw on. I had a PCB replaced 7 months ago. I think the back Panel was not on right and with that being said If this plastic Panel does not sit right or is screwed on differently, or screwede on too loose or too tightly, the heat of the bulb will heat the plastic cover, thus warping just a fraction of a millimeter/maybe 1/8 inch, enough to trigger the sensor that says "Hey the cover is missing, I will not turn on/ or I will shut off". I do not know which panel it was but whatever I did in the above post worked. I have not had the TV shut off since I did that. No bulb replacement. (knock on wood). So I suggest before purchasing any replacement equipment, try what I did first. It is free and what do you have to lose right? :)

I purchased this unit when it first came out in August of 2005. It just recently started displaying on the left hand side of the screen a ~1" transparent border or pin cushion effect. From reading and searching this site that appears to be the case of a bad LE. It looks like the potential cost of repair is :eek: high. I am very bummed that a piece of consumer electronic equipment that i spent $3400 less than 4 years ago is basically at the end of its life. Is there hope? My wife has already said she does not want to buy a new tv nor spend what i think would cost to repair $900 - $1100. The unit is not under any extended warranty. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi,

My HLR-4266W started making some annoying noises in the past two weeks. I was able to hide the noise by putting some pressure on the back of the TV but today that hack is no longer working. The noise picks up and it is really loud and annoying. I suspect it might be the color wheel.

Any ideas how much I am looking to pay for such a repair? It is is really bad when turning on/off the TV and it is now a constant whine noise.

Francisco

First post here, did a quick search and didn't find anything on this....

I've got an HLR5064W DLP and I just received my replacement Lenticular screen since my son decided that it would be fun to take a hockey stick to the original screen and scratch the hell out of it.

My question is, how do I replace the screen? Talking to a couple of ppl they have said that there should be some screws somewhere that i take out, and i can slide the old screen out and slide the new screen in. Is it really this easy and if so, where are these screws located? If it's not as simple as this, how do I do it. I was hoping to find a service manual online but no luck.

Thanks for your help!!!
Ryan

Sears parts has a Exploded View of a HLR5067W, here
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/showSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http%3a%2f%2fc.searspartsdirect.com% 2flis_png%2fPLDM%2f50026574-00001.png
I had the remove the Screen Assembly to replace a mirror on a hlr4667w, the screens are sandwiched between T0852 and T0003. Held in with clips.
Had to remove the light engine to remove the screws on the bottom of the screen assembly, other screws on the rear cover were a piece of cake. Hope this helps.



First post here, did a quick search and didn't find anything on this....

I've got an HLR5064W DLP and I just received my replacement Lenticular screen since my son decided that it would be fun to take a hockey stick to the original screen and scratch the hell out of it.

My question is, how do I replace the screen? Talking to a couple of ppl they have said that there should be some screws somewhere that i take out, and i can slide the old screen out and slide the new screen in. Is it really this easy and if so, where are these screws located? If it's not as simple as this, how do I do it. I was hoping to find a service manual online but no luck.

Thanks for your help!!!
Ryan

Need some help from fellow HLR6178W owners. Recently my DLP has an intermittent problem with receiving signals from my Harmony One and original Samsung remote controls. I use the Harmony One mostly but experience the problem with either remote.

I'll be able to turn on the set and watch TV, but then after 20-30 seconds the TV won't respond to any remote commands. I have to manually go up to the TV and turn the volume up or change inputs. On other occasions I won't be able to turn the TV on or off. Once again I have to go up to the TV and press the power button manually.

This problem comes and goes every day. It is getting very annoying to try and launch some of the macros from my Harmony One and the TV not responding. It worked fine for so long but all of a sudden this has started to happen. Is it the remote sensor in the TV?

Has anyone experienced this kind of behavior from their Samsung DLP?

The bulb on my DLP burnt out so I bought a replacement. After replacing the bulb, there is now a 1" shadow running up and down the very left edge of the tv. Does anyone know how to fix this? I can't figure it out. I tried taking it out and reinstalling, but can't seem to figure out the problem.

The mirrors inside the light tunnel assembly are loose. This is a known issue with these Samsung DLP's. The glue used to hold the mirrors in place was faulty and has melted away over time. By the mirror sliding out of place the shadow has started. As the mirror slips more out of place the shadow will get bigger across your screen.

I've had 4 light tunnels since I bought my HLR 6178W in Oct 2005. So glad I bought the extended warranty.

The bulb on my DLP burnt out so I bought a replacement. After replacing the bulb, there is now a 1" shadow running up and down the very left edge of the tv. Does anyone know how to fix this? I can't figure it out. I tried taking it out and reinstalling, but can't seem to figure out the problem.

Call Samsung CS and tell them you have a "collapsing light tunnel". It is a common problem which they are repairing for no cost under an extended warranty to all owners.

Don't pay the local techs if they request a diagnosis charge, all charges are being covered by Samsung.

When the power goes out during a storm or any other reason my tv will not turn on when the power is restored. When you hit power on the remote the "timer" light displays on the power button on the tv. I can get the tv to come back on but it is very frusterating to do so. I have to plug and unplug the TV multiple times and finally randomly the tv comes back on in working condition. This never happened until we moved out of town and had cable and there is some indication it may have something to do with my dish reciever I use now.
As I said I can get the tv to come back on by pluggin and un-plugging the tv multiple times. The manual claims that 30 seconds is enough time to wait but I have had various results waiting for anywhere from 5 minutes to an hour. Here are my varied results:
1. Plaid picture with sound, picture locks sound locks tv shuts down eventually.
2. Plaid picture with no sound tv shuts down eventually.
3. If no tone is heard you know you are wasting your time. If tone sounds you might be in luck but does not mean it will be working properly.
4. Sometimes reseting the Dish reciever can cause it to start working correctly.
5. I get different results with the cable disconnected from the back of the tv. So far I have never gotten the tv to come on and show a blue screen with "no input" showing so the tv is definately recognizing the input and it has some kind of effect on whether or not the tv will work.
I called Samsungs tech support and that was a laughable experience at best. In broken English they told me that I would need a new power supply!

TV is working now, but the next time the power goes out I will have to go through this again. Not bad for a TV that sold for around $3,000.00....

When the power goes out during a storm or any other reason my tv will not turn on when the power is restored. When you hit power on the remote the "timer" light displays on the power button on the tv. I can get the tv to come back on but it is very frusterating to do so. I have to plug and unplug the TV multiple times and finally randomly the tv comes back on in working condition. This never happened until we moved out of town and had cable and there is some indication it may have something to do with my dish reciever I use now.
As I said I can get the tv to come back on by pluggin and un-plugging the tv multiple times. The manual claims that 30 seconds is enough time to wait but I have had various results waiting for anywhere from 5 minutes to an hour. Here are my varied results:
1. Plaid picture with sound, picture locks sound locks tv shuts down eventually.
2. Plaid picture with no sound tv shuts down eventually.
3. If no tone is heard you know you are wasting your time. If tone sounds you might be in luck but does not mean it will be working properly.
4. Sometimes reseting the Dish reciever can cause it to start working correctly.
5. I get different results with the cable disconnected from the back of the tv. So far I have never gotten the tv to come on and show a blue screen with "no input" showing so the tv is definately recognizing the input and it has some kind of effect on whether or not the tv will work.
I called Samsungs tech support and that was a laughable experience at best. In broken English they told me that I would need a new power supply!

TV is working now, but the next time the power goes out I will have to go through this again. Not bad for a TV that sold for around $3,000.00....

My suggestion is to buy a cheap UPS. When the power goes out, it should give you ample time to power down the DLP, then turn it on as normal when power returns.

My suggestion is to buy a cheap UPS. When the power goes out, it should give you ample time to power down the DLP, then turn it on as normal when power returns.

Thanks for the reply CyberScott. That thought had crossed my mind although I had been hoping to find a simple firmware fix or someone with the same problem and a simple fix. Seems pretty lame that a common thing like a power loss could cause so many problems. I wonder if turning off the auto on feature in the service menu could help? I think I may give that a shot.
Thanks again.

Turns out there are two threads going on this forum for the same thing. I came across something in the other thread that may help alot of people experiencing related problems. Here is what I found on another forum with the help of this other thread:

This set started having problems with tiling when cold, going green with patterns of lines, and other patterns of distorted images. It would clear up when run for a couple of hours. At the time, the digital board was on backorder, and in order to get the client up and running, I pulled the digital board from my personal set and installed it. This worked, assuring me that the digital board was the problem. I transferred the bad board to my set, and it had the same issues. After using it a while longer, it began having other symptoms, including locking up with no pix and turning off. Eventually, the set would start the lamp, never have any video nor any sound, then shut down after about a minute. It remained that way for a couple of months while I waited on a board.

Along the way, I have heard from a couple of sites, including Jason1976 here, that the problem may be connections on the DNIE chip on the digital board, near the DVI connector at the back side of the board. Apparently people were having success applying pressure to this chip. It is a BGA type (Ball Grid Array) that has pins underneath that contact points on the board. This is becoming common with high density ICs where external pin connections require larger size chips, tighter spacing, and geometries that are not efficient for the design of the chip. There are good reasons to use BGA, but they can be difficult to solder properly. Apparently, Samsung has had some issues with this chip.

One solution is to try to re-flow the slder. I don't suggest this for anyone without the right equipment. It is very easy to heat the wrong parts or overheat the chip, board, or related parts.

So I decided to experiment. I received the new board that had been on backorder, but figured I would play with the bad one as an experiment. The board is encased in a metal housing with holes. I looked in my shop for something that might fit between the chip and housing to put some pressure on the chip. I found a small bolt that happened to be just a litte too long to fit between the chip and the metal housing above it. I fitted it in, then pushed the edges of the housing down to where I could put the screws holding it all together back in. There was significant tension on the bolt, with the larger hex head end standing on the chip and the tip of the screw fitting against the metal housing (bolt standing on its head on top of the chip). It took a little pressure to get the screws back in, which was good, as it used the housing like a large spring pushing down on the bolt, which put a great deal of pressure on the chip. Simple solution if this is the problem.

The result is that the set fired up the first time and has run fine since. I don't know how long it will work, but I will run it and see. I have the other board, if anyone needs one. Keeping it will cost me an extra $50 on top of its cost, as it does have a core value and we normally send them back for credit. It will be worth it to have a new board on hand if my solution fails, or if another client needs one.

The part number for the digital board for this set is BP94-02084A. This is for the HLR6167WAX/XAA, L64C chassis type. You need to verify all of the suffixes on the service model and the chassis number to get the right board for Samsung sets, particularly these. There were many production changes and versions of these sets and some differences in the boards. Some even reportedly need to have the analog and digital boards changed together for some reason, but this one does not.