I just bought the PE7700 together with a Stewart Firehawk 92" ElectriScreen and I'm really surprised how great the picture looks. I have the problem of some ambient light and white wall paper, but Firehawk did solve that problem and the picture looks much brighter and has much more contrast than on other screens! Although Firehawk has a tighter viewing angle, I couldn't recognise any hotspot. I'm just waiting for a Colorfacts-calibration these days.

I had no problems using the Component input and the RGBHV analog input for my PC. I will connect the DVD-player via HDMI.

Does anyone know if there's a service menu and how to enter it on the Benq?

Greets, Mike

I'm not aware of anyone yet finding the service menu codes, but you can do a grayscale calibration using the Gain and Offset values found in the Advanced menu.

While you are waiting for a real calibration, try these values for the HDMI input:

Gain
Red 512
Green 447
Blue 438

Offset
Red 0
Green 5
Blue 10

Your mileage may vary, but it should be an improvement.

Well, I pulled the trigger and bought my new house (please hold all the applause). After some number crunching, I figure I can get a 100" diagonal and have 2 rows of 3. I figure "head" placement at 10.5 feet and 14.5 feet. That is using 1.25x diagonal for the first row and 2.0x width for the 2nd row. That way i try both "recommended" seating placements. That should also give me enough separation from my rears (if I position them 2-3 feet above sitting ear level). Oh yeah, I figure I'll put the projector at 12.5 feet...pretty much in between the 2 seating rows (ceiling mounted...the ceiling is 8 ft so that should work). Thanks for the advice on the center channel and the advice on seating arrangments everyone. I guess I'll just put the center above or below...is there one better than the other? I currently have it above on my DLP TV and love it. Now.....any recommendations on seats (that DON't cost an arm and a leg?) I was thinking theater seats, but comfy. The expensive loungers are big and, well, expensive! I also plan on putting my Special Edition IV, V, VI Star Wars posters framed along one wall and the Epi I, II, III Star Wars posters framed along the other wall. Did I mention the room next door will be exclusively used to display my Star Figures from floor to ceiling? Yeah, I'm a geek, but a single geek (I'm pretty sure a GF or wife wouldn't let that fly). Think I need to put the back row of seats at an elevation? OK...I'm done bothering everyone with my questions...comments. Oh wait...Wires run through the ceiling then down the wall to the speakers or run along the floorboards and then up the wall? Any ideas (without prewiring because I can't do that now. Is it that involved to install? Maybe I should hire someone....is that pricey?

Here's my system (minus the projector and screen)
Denon 3805 A/V receiver
Denon 3910 Universal Disc player
DefTech ProMonitor 100's (x6 for FL, FR, LS, RS, LR, RR)
DefTech ProCenter C2
DefTech ProSub 100TL

I'm pumped!!!! In a room that is basically 15.5 x 9.5 x 8ft ceilings, do you think I will need a 2nd sub?

Don't know if you'll have enough room L and R of the screen for your front speakers.

Hmmm. The screen is about 7'3" wide and my speakers are about 6" wide apiece. If I arrange them pretty much flush with the screen border I should have afew inches to spare on both sides (about 6" actually). Do you think that would be too close to the side walls? I suppose I could go with a smaller screen, but I had my heart set on 100" :) its a big number. I didn't really want to go down to 90 and 96 seems to not be a doable size.

Not wanting you to stop contributing to this thread, but you could start a new thread here-
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&f=19
about what your own theater.

Let us know how it goes.

I ordered the BenQ PE7700 from projectorusa and just got it yesterday. Got it for $2599. Popped in my favorite DVD's immediately. AWESOME. Liked the color presets...very nice. The HD, though, is where this thing shines. I know I just bought it, but I really couldn't be happier.

However, the time has come to go beyond the painted wall!

Curious: was looking at some High Contrast Da-Lite screens...what do you guys think, since this projector doesn't have a super high contrast ratio (even though it looks really good)...

High contrast screens are mostly not white but silver or grey. depending on your desired screen size, i've seen the projector on 100" walls from stewart, one firehawk and one greyhawk rs and the light output was by far enough, so grey screens make no problems.

i'd just consider that you only get high contrasts in an absolutely dark room with absolutely no light (ideally black absorbing walls, ceiling, floor,...) To get high contrasts with a little bit of ambient light, you have to look for a screen that decreases the influence of ambient light like stewart's firehawk.

i've seen the firehawk in direct comparison to dalite high contrast da-mat screen and the difference is clearly visible. a gain of 1,35 (firehawk) vs. a gain of 0,8 (da-mat) makes the picture look brighter, more brilliant and vivid. The additional increase of contrast is also more visible on the firehawk due to the special surface coating.

stewart is definitely more expensive, but it's worth every cent. i'm glad not to have a more expensive projector (like a runco) in combination with a cheaper "standard screen".

Greets, Mike

I saw in the pe7700 manual that benq supplies a VGA-BNC cable with the projector.

What is the quality of this cable?

Has anyone noticed a difference when using a higher quality vga-bnc cable than the one supplied?

It's a short cable (4ft?) so would a higher quality cable really make a big difference in this case?

It is a short cable, but appears to be of good quality. Consequently, I think you would see little to no difference using another 4-foot cable.

However, if you were going to do a cable run of 30 feet or more, I think cable quality could be a factor.

Kevin............ did you get your 7700 up and running?

If so, have you been able to make any direct comparisons to the 8700? Any comparitive numbers you can share?

I'm not aware of anyone yet finding the service menu codes, but you can do a grayscale calibration using the Gain and Offset values found in the Advanced menu.

While you are waiting for a real calibration, try these values for the HDMI input:

Gain
Red 512
Green 447
Blue 438

Offset
Red 0
Green 5
Blue 10

Your mileage may vary, but it should be an improvement.

Those are almost the same values that I get after Colorfacts, the problem is that I think they are still a little red for my taste.

May be a new firmware or the access to the service menu will help us.

Nacho.

Has anybody else noticed how slowly time moves between the time you order the projector and the time you receive the projector?

Do you think I could write it up for some prestigious physics journal and win a Nobel Prize?

(I'm even getting it in only two days from the time I ordered - but they're a LONG two days...)

*taps foot impatiently...*

In any case... I'll join all you 7700 owners tomorrow. I just really wanted to be in the club. :p

Has anybody else noticed how slowly time moves between the time you order the projector and the time you receive the projector?


Their transporter's probably down. Where's Scotty when you need him? :D

Has anybody else noticed how slowly time moves between the time you order the projector and the time you receive the projector?

Yes. Just keep yourself busy for those couple days... but you can't read AVS, or it'll remind you of your wait.. :D

Just a quick question. I know I asked this before but I was wondering now if there were any "new" opinions? How does the Sony HS51 stack up against the BenQ? I know they are opposites, LCD VS DLP...Just wondering...

I looked at the Sony HS51 shining on a Firehawk at a local hi-end a/v dealer locally, and was NOT impressed by the contrast ratio, even though it boasts a 6000:1 spec (they're just numbers, as I heard folks say). The blacks were washed out and it had noticeable screen door effects. I looked at a friends BenQ PE8700 and was blown away, so I took a chance on the PE7700 after ONLY reading reviews here and not personally seeing one. So far I don't regret it, even for just the two hours I've used it, on a matt-white Elite screen, 'til I finish my room. IMHO.

Another fast question, Has anyone else had problems with HDMI compatibility? Mainly Onkyo SP1000 or TX NR1000 products? This is a HUGE factor for me...Thanks, joe

I am calibrating a Sony HS51 on Saturday and will share my opinion. I know that WSR, TPV, and HT Mag all gave it good reviews but could not get a flat grayscale, especially at low luminance levels. The PE7700, on the other hand, easily calibrates to a flat grayscale.

Their transporter's probably down. Where's Scotty when you need him? :D
"Captain, she won't hold together much-a longer!"

Okay... back to the topic at hand. I did a quick review of the thread and didn't see anything, but I'm wondering if there is a good source for remote codes for this projector. I'm going to have to be figuring out how to program my new MX-3000 remote with the info for my new projector (as well as everything else).

Don,
How about the original projector remote? ;)

Can't you just use the learning and labeling function of the MX3000?

Try this link for BenQ remote codes that can be downloaded into the MX300. I believe the codes for the PE8700 also work on the PE7700

http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/files/rcfiles.cgi?kw=benq&area=mx3000&db=&br=&dv=&dt=&so=

The 7700 does use the same codes are the 8700, but the discrete on/off commands don't work. However, one thing I've found is that the "On" command from the 8700 file will only work as a shutdown on every other push, so instead of sending the command twice to turn the projector off, you send it 3 times.

I just learned the commands for the MT700 to my MX-3000, so if you want I can post that file later today.

The 7700 does use the same codes are the 8700, but the discrete on/off commands don't work. However, one thing I've found is that the "On" command from the 8700 file will only work as a shutdown on every other push, so instead of sending the command twice to turn the projector off, you send it 3 times.

I just learned the commands for the MT700 to my MX-3000, so if you want I can post that file later today.
If you wouldn't mind sharing, I'd love to have that file. Thanks!

If I have missed this please forgive me - Has anybody posted any screenshots of the 7700?

Also, has anybody seen and or posted pics with a silverstar?

If you wouldn't mind sharing, I'd love to have that file. Thanks!

Don, I've attached an MXF file (MX-700, 800 850 format) that might be easier to use. I don't know if the 7700 uses all the same terminology for the buttons. Just create your graphics, open the MXF file with the Universal Browser and drag-and-drop the commands over.

DOA?!?!

I received my projector today.

It's DOA. :(

When I plug it in and try to power it up, the orange light starts flashing (which I understand is the normal power-up process). After a bit of that, I hear the fan(s) start up for several seconds, then turn off. It repeats that 3 or 4 times, and then the red "lamp" light turns on solid. After a couple minutes of flashing orange (power) and solid red (lamp) lights, the orange light goes solid also. At that point, nothing else happens. :mad:

*sigh*

Hi guys,
I just purchased the Benq PE7700 on backorder. I have been told it should be arriving in about another week. Now I need to buy the right type of screen.
Could someone with knowledge of this projector and its particular characteristics - lumens/brightness- give me some guidance?
First the background -
The screen size diagonal will be 92 inches (233cm). It will retract from the ceiling via motor, to hide my widescreen tv. Seating area will be about 12.5-14ft (3.8 - 4.0 meters). The room is a living room and not a dedicated home theater. There are huge windows and 3 doors adjacent. I plan to buy black out curtains to block out as much light as possible for the windows. Walls and ceiling will likely be light colors - white and beige, although there should be plenty of wood shelving. I plan to watch mostly dvds., and perhaps cable tv if the image is good enough. (HD tv has not arrived where I live and is at least 2 years away.)
Specifically, what screen type characteristics are important? Please do not suggest brand types i.e. Firehawk, Stewart, etc.., as they are imports where I live and would cost a fortune. Most likely I will buy a local product, but will need to tell the vendor the characteristics - white/grey, gain amount, high contrast/low contrast. Considering I will be using the Benq7700 under the above conditions.....

1. Should my screen be white, light grey, medium gray, or dark grey?
2. Should it have 0.8 gain, 1.0 gain, or 1.1+ gain?
3. Should I ask about including mechancial side flaps that help give a 4X3 image? Does the flaps greatly improve viewing television events as the light doesnt spill over into the borders?
4. Lastly, which color is better for the walls, beige, yellow, light grey, or no difference.
Thanks in advance for any advice.

Just a quick question. My eventual HT room will be 15'8" by 9'5". No windows on either side wall, only the doorway in in the rear, and a window which will be covered by the permanantly mounted screen. Will the screen be sufficient to darken this out? Most seem to have a black backing on them. Anyway, which screens are people using around 100" diag? I narowed it down to a Da-Lite HC Cinema Vision or a Da-Lite Da-Mat. I figured since the room is pretty much black I could use the projector on econ mode. Think it will work? I figured the grey screen would help improve blacks and that a gain isn't really needed. I think the Cinema Vision has a 0.8 gain and the Da-Mat has a 1.1 gain. Advice?

1. What is the minimum you can mount the 7700 from the ceiling to the center of the lens using the BenQ mounting kit?

2. I would like to mount the projector as close to the ceiling as possible, inverted. (5-6") Where can a person get a mount like this?

3. Also, in relation to the post right before me, are most of you 7700 owners using the econo mode to give you up to 3000 hrs. on the lamp or do you use normal mode to give extra brightness. I guess a person should figure out which mode they will use before getting a screen??

Thanks for your help.

Back in post #650 Todd_zilla asked what screen was recommended for the PE7700. Presenter replied by saying if a screen larger than 100" is being used he'd go with a high contrast white like the Firehawk. I'm doing a 110" DIY screen with this projector. What paint would be the equivalent of the high contrast white Firehawk? Or if you have done a DIY screen with this projector, what are you using?

Thanks

mjon....... I think there was either a typo or a mis-understanding....

The Stewart FireHawk is a "grey" screen with a claimed gain of 1.35 and a third party measured gain of 1.1.

Goo is supposedly developing a paint that will be similar to the FireHawk.

I believe with the larger screen you would want a white screen with some gain, not the grey FireHawk which excells at rejecting ambient light.

The white screen equivelant would be the Stewart StudioTek which has a gain of 1.3.

Thanks Steve, but what about paint? What color would that translate into? UPW?

Mjon......... I would suggest some more research over in the DIY screen section for those answers...

I think UPW is 1.0 gain at best, unless you start adding "stuff" to boost the gain and that is a "whole nother" ball game.

If you are looking for a gain screen in a light controlled room I think I would look at the threads on the "Silver" paints or those that try to emulate the SilverStar screen.

IMHO of course

My BenQ 7700 arrived yesterday.
Today I opened the box for a tabletop test.

It does not display the vertical 2% and 4% grey stripes on component connections. The brightness test pattern from DVE does not show the vertical stripes throug component progressive input.

If I switch to s-video, the stripes appear, but over all picture quality is not as good.

Trying the same player on other projectors, and CRT display gives me the stripes on both s-video and component, just not through the preferred component connection to BenQ PE 7700.

I can't find any settings in the menues either for sorting out the problem.
I've tried boosting the brightness up, but still no sign of the stripes at all.
Can only see the four solid boxes in the middle no matter what.

Please take a look at my illustrating picture.
(Photo taken of my CRT with the stripes showing)

http://home.broadpark.no/~estep/brightness.jpg

Do I have a fault in my projector unit?

Black levels can be a very complicated issue. It could just as likely be your DVD player as the PE7700, but I suspect this may be more of a PAL issue.

The PE7700 does have a Black Level setting in the SETUP menu that (at least on the US version) changes black level setup from 7.5 IRE to 0 IRE. 7.5 IRE is the default, but that setting only applies to the American NTSC system.

If I recall correctly, PAL does not use the black setup, and 0 IRE should be the correct setting for you. See if you have such a menu option and if changing it makes a difference.

I think this has been mentioned in this thread before. The PE7700 is crushing the blacks because it's set to 7.5 IRE as black and the DVD player is sending 0 IRE as black.

From what I've read: In the Menu --> Setup --> there should be a selection for NTSC Mode (that's what it's called on the MT700) or something equivalent. The "NTSC" setting gives you the 7.5 IRE for black and the "Japan" setting gives you 0 IRE for black. You change this to "Japan" (or the "other" setting) and your problem should be solved.

PE7700 owner's -- Please correct me if I'm wrong!

Oops! Kevin, you beat me to it!

Thanks Steve.
I'll take a look over there right now.

Mike

I think this has been mentioned in this thread before. The PE7700 is crushing the blacks because it's set to 7.5 IRE as black and the DVD player is sending 0 IRE as black.


The IRE setting on BenQ is greyed out and not possible to adjust.
BenQ support replied my mail with instructions to return the projector for a firmware upgrade.
I'm starting my time off at work tomorrow and was looking forward to endless days of enjoying my new projector.

Now at least a week of enjoyment will be lost in package transit.
(Cry cry!)

My IRE setting is grayed out as well (US unit)... anyone else have this issue? I wonder if I need a firmware upgrade as well. I haven't begun calibrating it yet, as I'm in the process of building a DIY mount for it right now...

It seems that BenQ is working on the new firm.
I've gotten a mail today explaining that it will have to be returned for a future firmupgrade that is not available at the time.

What is your IRE setting greyed out at? It should be at the 0 IRE setting, which is what you want it to be.

It is greyed out at 0 ire, but does not put out the vertical bars.

Mine is greyed out at the 0 IRE setting as well but I'm not sure about the bars as I haven't calibrated yet.

I'm curious to know what the new firmware will change... #1 on my list is the aspect ratio/zoom issue.

The issue with component connections and the 7700 (and also the MT700) has been discussed on the MT700 thread. The black level adjustment in the projector is off and to get the bars to appear with some DVD players, you'll need to make the brightness adjustment on the DVD player. As you've noticed, this only occurs with component, and even there occurs to a lesser degree with 480i (instead of 480p). Using HDMI, the settings are fine. What the projector is doing is at the 0 IRE setting, it's really at 7.5 IRE and at the 7.5 IRE setting, it's really at 15 IRE.

A fix was requested months ago, but in the meantime, we've been trying to figure out how to get into the service menu to adjust it there.

There's more about this issue on the MT700 thread and also addressed in cine4home's new review of the MT700 here (http://www.cine4home.de/tests/projektoren/ToshibaMT700/MT700Test.htm).

I was able to change the setting on mine last night. I think it was in set up under black mode? use the left and arrow to scroll 7.5 or 0 IRE. I can see the difference in the picture although I didn't have a test disc in.

Hi boys and girls? First post here, after having used a lot of time here.

I also own the PE7700 (built / mfg in March). I can confirm that the DVE test pattern "tor ove" referred to above does not work on mine either, via component, but with HDMI it is working fine and the vertical bars are visible and can be adjusted correctly according to the DVE recommendation. It is not possible to alter the IRE setting on my 7700, since the menu is grayed out at 0 IRE.

Well I have another problem with the PE7700 and that is it has a lot of dithering I think it is called? The mirrors are flipping and creating a lot of noise in the picture.

As an example, when I watch Vertical Limit (both the "normal" and the superbit version). In the opening scene where you have the mountain and the sky side by side and where the eagle? flies around, there is a lot of dithering. This was not seen on the PE7800 which I had before (with the same DVD player).

From what I have read in this post there is a new firmware underway, and my question is if it will fix / remove this dithering problem, or at least minimize it?

Anyone who knows if the new firmware can be downloaded and installed from a PC or will it be necessary to send it to BenQ?

Please excuse my rater poor english, but as you understand it is not may native language. Thanks for any help.

Hi Joe,

Your English is fine. :)

The dithering may be a brightness issue - I notice it a lot on HD2 and HD2+ DLPs, and with mine it was removed by getting the reflectance down to cinema levels. I always use a lens filter (fl-day or whatever works best) for colour correction and to reduce the image brightness. If you set your white and black levels that may help too (use Avia for NTSC and DVE or Peter Finzels test DVD).

What screen size do you have?

Gary.

CameratJoe,
Are you running preset configuration ie. Home Theater Mode or custom settings?

Thanks :)

I am using a 95 inch diagonal (size doesn´t matter where I live :D ) 0,85 gain "grey" screen. I use / have used DVE too calibrate it and yes I am in home theatre mode with custom settings, but I am not satisfied with it, when it comes to dithering. Almost forgot, the lamp mode is set to economic. No filters.

I can try to lower the brightness, white level, but from the testing I have done so far I do not get the result I would like to see. Especially when my previous PE7800 was better in that field, it is a bit of a disappointment so to say.

Any advice of settings that can be worth trying, or maybe I have to wait for a new firmware?

Thanks again.

Dithering on DLPs is almost always a calibration issue. DLPs image black by having the micro mirrors full off 100% of the time. They image white by having the mirrors full on 100% of the time. Everything inbetween (1-99 IRE or 17 to 234 digital luminance levels) is created by having the mirrors cycle on and off. Therefore, dithering is inherent in the DLP technology, but it can be substantially mitigated through proper adjustments.

Indeed, I've yet to see a good DLP projector with dithering that I couldn't substantially reduce, if not visually eliminate, through adjustments to black level (0 vs. 7.5 IRE), brightness, RGB settings, sharpness, or gamma levels. Sometimes it also requires adjustments on the DVD player (black level, brightness, sharpness).

This is one major advantage of having a signal generator -- you can isolate whether the dithering problem is with the projector or the DVD player.

My suggestion is to experiment with the adjustments, because what you are describing is not typical of the PE7700 using the HDMI input.

cine4home's new review of the MT700.
When I open this site, it is not in English. Am I missing something?

Yes, there is a country called Germany. And they have projectors there.

You have to use a translator such as this one: http://www.online-translator.com/srvurl.asp?lang=en

HTH

Gary.

CameratJoe,

Kevin covered it nicely. :)

Gary.

Interesting... my black level (IRE) setting is now adjustable. I finished my DIY mount and mounted the PJ, used component connection again, changed to mirror for upside-down mounting, and it's there now. It defaulted to 7.5 IRE though when I looked.. changed it to 0 IRE. I wonder if I accidentally changed to a different mode (cinema, home theater, et al)...

In the Projector Central Review, Bill Livolsi stated that "The PE7700 projects at an angle such that the centerline of the lens intersects the bottom edge of the projected image when table top mounted, or the top edge of the image when ceiling mounted. This creates some limitations to be aware of when planning your installation. If you want to set it on a coffee table, odds are that the image will be too low on the wall, and you'll need to tilt the projector up a bit. On the other hand if you want to ceiling mount it flush with the ceiling, the image will be too high on the wall, and you'll want to tilt it down. If you place it upright on a rear shelf, the image may again be too high. So the only options many users will have to install it without a tilt is to ceiling mount it with an extension tube or invert it on a relatively high shelf. "

If I mount the 7700 this way it will be too low, I have enter my HT from the rear of the room. Can anybody explain about inverting the PE7700 on a high shelf or what does using the Keystone adjustment do the image?

OK, thanks again. Good to hear that:
----------------------------------------------------
Quote Kevin said;
My suggestion is to experiment with the adjustments, because what you are describing is not typical of the PE7700 using the HDMI input.
-----------------------------------------------------

I understand I have to try harder :eek: . I use the DVE disk (PAL version) for calibration and the following pictures from chapter 12.

This is how I do it :p (comments please).
First I normally adjust the sharpness / focus with the test pattern in the 7700 menu.

Brightness DVE Picture 2 (the same picture as "tor ove" has posted above).
I adjust so that the "inner" vertical bars are visible.

Contrast DVE Picture 14
This picture consists of two greyscales laid on top of each other in the opposite direction.
There are some vertical dotted lines in the test pattern. I usually adjust so that the white vertical bars corresponds with the dotted line(s). I.e outside the dotted line(s) there are no visible vertical white bars.

Then I check the brightness again.

After that I adjust the colours (blue,red, green)(I think this is picture 6 in chapter 12 on the DVE disk?) with the help of the colour filters supplied with the DVE dvd.

Then I am ready to watch my favorite movie.

That's the exact same procedure as I use when I calibrate.

Make sure sharpness is set to 0 -- anything else introduces artifacts. If you've increase sharpness, it exacerbates dithering and edge enhancement. If you reduce sharpness, it artifically softens the picture.

Sailor, imagine where you want your screen. Ideally the projector will be at the top or bottom of the screen. If it isn't you have to tilt it, and adjust the keystone or not. I had mine at quite a tilt and didn't bother with adjusting the keystone. It was still quite enjoyable. Projectorcentral points out that the digital keystone adjustment doesn't hurt the image like most projectors. I found the same thing.
Warren.

I'd like to add a caveat to Warren's post that I would only use significant keystone correction if you have a screen with black borders that absorb light spill, as the edges of the screen will have a stepped effect with keystone on. After mounting mine at the correct height, I noticed some improvement in PQ, but mostly just the sides being straight which was previously distracting.

PE-7700/MT700 vs Optoma H77
Now that the price of the H77 is within $400/500 of the PE-7700, it it a "better value"? Looks like the H77 performs better in most areas except light output. There sure is a lot of discussion about this projector now in the "over $3500 USD MSRP". Apparently there is a upgrade for this unit, in Beta testing, for $150. Are any of you guys, still on the fence, considering this projector instead of the PE-7700?

What screens are you guys running with your PE7700's?

Also what gain, color, and material type, do you think is best for a home theater only room?
(Totaly light controlled)

I'm currently only using a 4'x8' sheet of Parkland Plastics Ultra White that was all of 13 bucks. I need to get a different screen, but there are other priorities right now, and I may be moving soon, so don't want to get one screen size when it will most likely change later.

For your screen gain, color, type, etc, it will depend on a few factors -- you've given one of those (totally light controlled). Which would suggest more on the grey screen side, and lower gain. Also important is the size of the screen (bigger screens lean toward getting white) and what your preferences are... a plasma-like image? (high gain), or lots of contrast (gray, lower gain).

I'm planning on requesting materials from different companies and seeing what I like best from there.

This projector is plenty bright, so IMHO, gain is not necessary unless you are going really big (e.g. over 110 inches).

Because the PE7700 is so bright, and because blacks are not its strong suit (like any other-than-Dark Chip DLP projector), this is one time I might consider going with a gray screen to improve contrast.

As it is, I have a 104-inch Carada brilliant white screen that I really enjoy because of the pop and sizzle it adds to the picture.

We are shooting for mainly a "Film like" image & accuracy.

Thinking of using a screen size of 106".... or maybe slightly bigger if the seating configuration & distances will allow us to.

Your thoughts?

In that case, I'd look more closely at a grey screen (which will typically be in the .85 gain range), to get the best contrast. Also look into the filters that others are talking about in the PE7700 and MT700 threads.

I am waiting 7700 on sale in my region.
But 8700+ has attractive price for me to buy

Street price of 8700+ is close to $2600
and Sharp XV-Z2000 is close to $3000

GCG,
FYI,
Sharp XV-2K (1200 L, 2500:1, ? segs. x5, DVI)
BenQ 7700 (1000 L, 2500:1, 6 segs. x5, HDMI)

Just wondering what results were being seen with sub $300 commonly available

DVD players at 720p via HDMI on the 7700 ??

Have searched with no consensus on Macroblocking, DCDI, etc...

Presumably HDMI at 720p IS the best way to go into the 7700 for DVD ?

- Thanks for any insight / wisdom on this.

- Chris

Tomato.................

Just a friendly FYI.......... as you are new to the forums..... Welcome!

However, it is "verbotten" to discuss street prices on the forums :-)

I got my 7700 today. (Okay... I got my second 7700 today - but the first one that works. ;) ) I thought I'd share my initial impressions for those that might be interested.

First, I have to give very heartfelt kudos to Jason from AVS. When I let him know that I had received a faulty unit, he rushed a new one out the next day so I only had a couple of days of downtime. Thanks, Jason, for the great customer service.

I have had the projector plugged in and active for about 5 hours. Just out of the box, the picture is stunning. I will undoubtedly tweak it over the next several days, but I was just immensely pleased with the picture right out of the box. (I watched Finding Nemo and The Matrix. Blacks are not "CRT black" - but I would say they are very comparable to the blacks I saw last time I went to the theater. Contrast is outstanding. I didn't notice any artifacts at all. (Of course, I may notice some later - but I was just busy basking in the movies today.)

For those that may wonder, I am using a 120" 16x9 DIY wall screen using Behr Silverscreen (light grey) paint. The screen is plenty bright. I probably could have even gone a little larger if I'd wanted to without having the picture suffer. My walls are a dark grey, and my ceiling is flat black.

I was feeding the signal to the projector from a Samsung HD950 upconverting DVD player. There was really very little difference between the picture put out at 480p and the picture put out at 720p. I have only used the hdmi connection thus far.

Having just taken a glance through the menus, everything seems to be well laid out and fairly intuitive. The remote is pretty good. Everything is pretty easy to find, and the backlighting on the remote is effective without being too bright.

Overall, I'm just a very happy guy today. :)

oh i am sorry, thanks for remind me. =)

I won't type the price next time.

by the way, did anyone open his 7700 case and check whether it has F. chip same as Toshiba MT700?

I'd like to add a caveat to Warren's post that I would only use significant keystone correction if you have a screen with black borders that absorb light spill, as the edges of the screen will have a stepped effect with keystone on. After mounting mine at the correct height, I noticed some improvement in PQ, but mostly just the sides being straight which was previously distracting.

I think that I will still look around for a projector - I am building a dedicated theater room - my goal was to figure out what projector that I wanted to buy so that I could tell my builder where to put the ceiling support and install project mounting tube before drywall. But after reading your comments about keystone adjustment, I am now undecided -- the problem with the Benq is that there are no local dealers so I would have to buy without seeing if I could live with the amount of keystone adjustment that I need to make. Each review that I have read on the 7700 states that the mounting limitation is a issue. I know that the Benq 7700 is probably one of the best $3000 projectors out there, but I think that its limitations - no vertical lens shift and 0 lens offset is a porblem.

Just saw (on the local forum) that the new deliveries of BenQ PE7700 will have a new firmware version. But it did not say anything about what the new firm would alter or correct? Any ideas? IRE issue? Black level? Dithering? I Hope it will be possible to upgrade from a PC?

BTW, I checked the BenQ pages, but it was not available there.

I know there is another forum for this (I posted there as well). Just curious if anyone is using this projector for a constant height 2.35:1 setup. If so, is all I need to add to the projector an anamorphic lens or am I simplifying the situation. It sounds to me (from this section in the manual) that it WILL do the scaling for me and all i need to purchase in addition is the lens. Anyone doing this yet? It be great to hear from someone instead of making a HUGE mistake by assuming.

The aspect ratio is the ratio of image width to image height. HDTV and most
DVDs are 16:9, which is the default for this projector. Most TV shows are 4:3.
Change the image ratio using the Aspect buttons on the remote control or in Display > Aspect Ratio menu.

Select an aspect ratio to suit the format of the video signal. There are five aspect ratios available:
In the pictures below, the black portions are inactive areas and the white portions are active areas.

1. Anamorphic: Scales an
image so that it is
displayed in the center of
the screen with a 16:9
aspect ratio.

2. 4:3: Scales an image so
that it is displayed in the
center of the screen with
a 4:3 aspect ratio.

3. Letter Box: Enlarges an
image with letterbox
format to display it in
full-screen format with a
16:9 aspect ratio. The
upper and lower portions
of the image are cropped. Use this setting for
Cinemascope and Vista video wide screen formats.

4. Wide: A 4:3 aspect ratio image is enlarged
NON-linearly in horizontal direction to
accommodate 16:9 full-screen display. This
stretches only the right and left sides of the
image; the central part is unchanged.

5. Real: One-to-one mapping is performed on
the input signal without any scaling with
the image displayed at the center of the
screen.

Chris - I'm using a Samsung hd850 Upconverting DVD Player to use with my MT700. I'm very pleased with the image straight out ok the box. No macro blockin at all.

FoolintheRain, The projector doesn't have a stretch mode to stretch a 2.35 movie to fill the whole 16x9 chip. You would need that for a 2.35 screen. I got a Panamorph lens and the iScan HD+ for that, planning a 120" 2.35 screen, but after getting projector it looks so good with the size cranked up I didn't use it. I am shooting a 133" now, and for the lens to work at that screen width the projector would have to be back in the kitchen. It is like 15' from the screen now, it would need to be like 18' or so.
I think maybe I will play with the lens some this weekend and see if I can live with the little 120" 2.35 screen.
Warren.

Just saw (on the local forum) that the new deliveries of BenQ PE7700 will have a new firmware version. But it did not say anything about what the new firm would alter or correct? Any ideas? IRE issue? Black level? Dithering? I Hope it will be possible to upgrade from a PC?

BTW, I checked the BenQ pages, but it was not available there.

I've been in touch with BenQ support, and they expect the firm to be ready monday after this weekend.
One of the issues is the Blacklevel IRE-settings.
Don't know about other issues they're going to correct.
My pojector has some difficulties synching on the component cables. I usually need to press the "comp1"-button once more for synching to complete. Maybe that's an issue they are looking into.

Any word from BenQ if they will make the update available through the RS-232 port on the projector like they did with the PE8700?

Owners of the PE8700 had the option to send it in for the upgrade or to do it on their own using a computer program. I strongly prefer the latter.

Agreed, Kevin. I can only imagine how much simpler it would be for them to distribute it that way. Especially if there are multiple firmware updates (which I think is a positive thing, because I'd rather have things get fixed than not, of course).

I'm also curious about the aspect ratio/zoom issue, and whether that will be resolved.

Any word from BenQ if they will make the update available through the RS-232 port on the projector like they did with the PE8700?

Owners of the PE8700 had the option to send it in for the upgrade or to do it on their own using a computer program. I strongly prefer the latter.

When I asked my distributor regarding that question, he said it most likely would be possible upgrading at home through a special cable configuration. (RS232?)

When I asked BenQ support regarding the upgrade situation, they replied;
"Dear Tor,
It is not possible to update the firmware by yourself. It has to be done by
one of our servicecentre'ss."


Regarding the release of the new firm they replied;
"Dear Tor,
That's correct, our distributor/Rma desk does not yet now about availability
of firmware because it is still under
Investigation. I would like to advise you to contact our RMA centre next
week on Monday for firmware update.

I can tell you that the release will probably be avaible within 3 days. Then
we will sent the firmware to our service
centres."

Though my distributor has some experience with BenQ and firms telling me not to get my hopes to high for the release already on monday. He figures it will be a lot more time than a few days.

Anyone having any problems over HMDI with this projector? I have a Denon 3910 with HDMI and want to make sure they are compatible. The only reason I bring it up is because someone started another thread saying the only compatible DVD player with HDMI was a panasonic???? That sounds ludicrous to me, but anything is possible I guess.

Anyone having any problems over HMDI with this projector? I have a Denon 3910 with HDMI and want to make sure they are compatible. The only reason I bring it up is because someone started another thread saying the only compatible DVD player with HDMI was a panasonic???? That sounds ludicrous to me, but anything is possible I guess.
I'm using a Samsung HD950, and it works just fine.

I have a few questions about the source for this projector.

1. Its deinterlace/scaling circuit seems good. Should I simply use a cheap dvd player ($100-200) to output 480i to make use of the internal scaler? If a cheap dvd+internal scaler can do relatively well I would save the money for next generation blue laser player.

2. Would the PQ be better if I use either a HTPC or a decent dvd player ($500 below) to transmit 720p through hdmi (bypass the internal scaler)? If it does, a HTPC or dvd player is better?

My 7700 unit is delayed one week and is expected to arrive this weekend or the beginning of next week. I have to make the source (one out of the three options) ready shortly.

Anyone having any problems over HMDI with this projector? I have a Denon 3910 with HDMI and want to make sure they are compatible. The only reason I bring it up is because someone started another thread saying the only compatible DVD player with HDMI was a panasonic???? That sounds ludicrous to me, but anything is possible I guess.

I have a D3910 feeding my BenQ 7700 through a HDMi cable.
My cable is 10 metres (30 feet) long, and that's just to long for the HDMi out port.
My image clips and hangs. Using the cable with an hdmi-dvi adapter in the DVI out port works just fine.
I've contacted my dealer for a replacement for 10 metres to a 7.5 metres, and recon that will work fine on the HDMi out port.

Anyone having any problems over HMDI with this projector? I have a Denon 3910 with HDMI and want to make sure they are compatible. The only reason I bring it up is because someone started another thread saying the only compatible DVD player with HDMI was a panasonic???? That sounds ludicrous to me, but anything is possible I guess.

I dun know abt the denon but I'm running 10m HDMI from a pio 59avi with no problem.

I use a 10 m (30 feet) HDMI - HDMI cable and a Pioneer 868 (European model of the Pioneer elite 59? I think) together with the 7700. No problems.

Another nice thing with the HDMI, is that my Pioneer sees that there is a HDMI unit in the other end, so the connection is established when you fire it up. With DVI I think you will miss that? At least it did not work when I had the PE7800 connected to the Pioneer.

I use a 50' HDMI-HDMI cable with no problems. 24 awg gold coated from monoprice. Great price as well. DVD source is a Samsung HD850 at 720 out. Beautiful PQ.

I have a mounting question. I'm going to make my own ceiling mount. When I drill the hole in my ceiling, should it be at the center of the projector, or the center of the lens? There is probably a 3 inch difference here.

In other words, is the center of the projected image width the center of the lens or does the lens offset it a bit so that the center of the width actually lines up with the center of the projector?

I'm all paranoid because ceiling mounting my x1 without any lens shift was a royal pain in the arse. I had it all figured out and then I forgot that when you ceiling mount the lens is on the opposite side when you flip the projector.

My new mount DIY is going to have its own built in "shift ability" both up and down, but only to a degree. I want to be as close as possible.

I have a mounting question. I'm going to make my own ceiling mount. When I drill the hole in my ceiling, should it be at the center of the projector, or the center of the lens? There is probably a 3 inch difference here.

In other words, is the center of the projected image width the center of the lens or does the lens offset it a bit so that the center of the width actually lines up with the center of the projector?

I'm all paranoid because ceiling mounting my x1 without any lens shift was a royal pain in the arse. I had it all figured out and then I forgot that when you ceiling mount the lens is on the opposite side when you flip the projector.

My new mount DIY is going to have its own built in "shift ability" both up and down, but only to a degree. I want to be as close as possible.

My understanding is that the center of the image should be at the center of the lens. (I'm hanging mine this weekend, so I'd better figure it out for sure...)

The hole should be at the center of gravitiy, just offset it so the center of the lens is in the center of the screen. You know, that ebay universal projector mount is so cheap and flexible that a DIY doesn't make much sense. I made one just cause I didn't want to wait and I had a very convenient place to make an easy one that was basically an upsidedown shelf. The parts cost me half as much as the ebay one and once you considering the labor it just isn't worth it. Plus mine doesn't look anywhere near as nice.
Warren.

The center of the image is at the center of the lens.
DIY-stuff is so much more fun than ebay. :D

The BenQ 7700 is 15 inches wide, and the center of the lens is 4 inches from the left side of the projector. (Looking down at a projector standing on a table, reverse for ceiling mount).

I agree that DIY is more fun, and this particular project (DIY mount) is not much of a pain, IMO. And I'd have to say mine looks better than the ebay one as well... :)

You'll end up offsetting the mount to the left of the center of the screen (since the lens is on the right when upside down).

Thanks, I'll offset so the center of the lens is the center of the screen.

I'm pretty impressed with this Benq so far. It's an upgrade over an x1. The colors are a lot better and the blacks are very good.

I have it hooked to my computer via hdmi and a dvi converter. My 9700 with the latest catalyst drivers support 720p and the desktop looks great.

Comparing dvd watching to the x1 the colors and blacks are better, but with the x1 and a little cropping you could get native pixel mapping and a very sharp picture for the price. With the benq I find that trying to put a lower resolution picture on the screen ie dvd vs hd native chip is a formula for some background noise. I imagine a 720 p upconverting player would give a better picture and elimanate some of that scaling noise.

Projecting on a white screen I find the blacks and colors much better than the x1 on a hccv screen. People say that a gray screen would help the benq, but I still think the blacks are good on a white screen and you can't beat the colors on a white screen. I used simple Behr ultra pure white with 2 coats. I might try some screen goo though at some point.

I don't have anything hd to watch yet, but I cranked up a few computer games at 720p and the image blows the x1 completely out of the water at this resolution.

The biggest difference from the x1 is noise. That is one loud projector. Try T2 extreme edition HD media player version. That looks awesome at 720p, if you have the computer to run it.
Warren.

IMO, the 7700 and X1 are in completely different leagues... (having upgraded from the X1)

Regarding contrast, I was also surprised last night, watching the show 24 with the black background, the projected black was only slightly lighter than the screen surface without projection. For this reason, I'm thinking a white would (continue to) be the best in my situation as well.

I think I'll have to get that movie, Warren..

I also upgraded from X1 to 7700.
Running a Denon 3910 at 720p with HDMi and I am very satisfied with the picture.
Last evening was the premier of my upgraded HT.
First movie in the slot was "After the sunset".
One of the first scenes of this movie is at a Lakers game.
I was stunned by the rich yellow color from the Lakers outfits.
Have never seen such a rich and beautiful yellow from a DLP before.

Though at cartoons and animations like The Lion King, I find the colors richer on 480/576p, than on 720p.

I'm very well satisfied with my BenQ7700 and can't wait for HD-material like Xbox 360, PS3 and HD-Dvd.
Here in Europe, and particulary Norway, HD is a very rare phenomena.

tor ove what kind of screen do you have (grey, white, gain)?
Did you see any dithering in light scene, like skies / heaven? Yes, I am very troubled with it and I am starting to think the screen canvas pattern can "amplify" the dithering? I use a grey screen 0,85 gain, and I am not able to get rid of the dithering, so I will probably hang up my matt white screen (gain 1,1) again and see if there is a difference?

And, yes the colours are and even the black level is very good with the 7700 :) especially with a grey screen. You have a "video black" test picture on the DVE which you can use to evaluate it.

My Sony Ht10 is dying and I am considering the 7700 as a replacement.

My concern is that I am using an older Panasonic RP-91 dvd player that outputs 480p (or i) through component cables.

How might this affect the picture quality?

Should I be thinking of replacind the dvd player witwh one that has a HDMI output?

Shelly

I would -- I'm using a cheap Samsung DVD player with 480i over component, and I'm pretty sure I'll get a much better picture with an upconverting player over HDMI (I can see artifacts on the screen.. I'm going to pop in a few DVDs known for great transfers though to test a bit more). I'll probably end up building an HTPC in the next few weeks, actually.

Anyone actually using the BenQ ceiling mount kit? I was just curious where it can be purchased (haven't found it on the web yet) and how much it hangs down. I;m trying to do some calculations on how far from the ceiling my screen should be (not including the frame, just viewable area) so I can get some idea as to how high the center channel will be from the floor etc. Thanks!

Canerat Joe, have you tried an upscaling dvd player? I found that when I bought an upscaling player it reduced the dithering considerably. I also have a white screen which probably makes it more visible, but I did get out my hccv pull down screen, and I really didn't notice much difference. It didn't seem to reduce it that much, and I'm getting used to the better colors on the white screen so I put it away. A gray screen should hide artifacts better correct? I have to say that before I got the upscaling dvd player I was very annoyed with the dithering.

I have calibrated my 7700 with avia but I'm sure there is more someone who does professional calibrations could do to get rid of the dithering almost completely.

Mash,

Yes, I have a Pioneer 868 with 480 i/p up to 1080i, but mostly I use it with 720p. I have also adjusted the settings on the 868 and it helped, but I can still see it. Regarding the screen, my comment was more if the screen fabric had a more "rough" surface pattern, which "amplified" the dithering. I have put up both my screens overlapping each other and I really can´t see much difference. Having said that, white will be more greyish using a grey screen. I also made a new round with the DVE disk yesterday, but it is still there. I am sure the dithering comes from the 7700, since I also have a satellite tuner connected to it with component signal and it is also visible with that set up.

Well I do not know how I shall be able to overcome it? Anyone who can post settings which they have experienced reduced dithering with?

tor ove what kind of screen do you have (grey, white, gain)?
Did you see any dithering in light scene, like skies / heaven? Yes, I am very troubled with it and I am starting to think the screen canvas pattern can "amplify" the dithering? I use a grey screen 0,85 gain, and I am not able to get rid of the dithering, so I will probably hang up my matt white screen (gain 1,1) again and see if there is a difference?


I'm using greyline 0.8 gain.
See some dithering at bright scenes yes, but not the brightest. More in the high midtones.

Well my 7700 is up, using a universal chief mount with a 1 1/2 thread pipe from the ceiling in the basement, hangs down about 3" from the drop ceiling. I cant post pix links yet because I have not posted enough in the forums. I also tried my hand at hacking a hole in the closet wall and putting in a recessed equipment rack for my Denon 3801 and HTPC. Actually came out OK considering the basement floor is about as level as a politician.

Funny thing about cables, I didnt want to wait around for the $15 DVI to HDMI cable I bought off ebay so I bought a $200 monster cable at best borrow....er best buy and then comapred the two. Now I know a great deal of talk is hashed around these parts on cable quality, but let me tell you, that $200 cable sure went into the bag fast and its going right back to Best buy.

Also got an optical cable for the SPDIF that came with some piece of hardware I bought, compared that to the $40 cables from Radio shack. Those went back fast too. I ran my cables in the drop ceiling totally out of view. Also bought a roll of RCA speaker wire from HD for $34 bucks and pretty much used that all up. Now its just a matter of a screen and a center speaker to go along with my mains, an old set of Dahlquist DQM7 speakers and some AR bookshelf surrounds......

This might work....
Note...the word "rack" in the pix title does not mean female body parts so dont get mad when you just see a wall and some furniture :eek:

http://www.cctvcentral.com/images/ht/rack1.jpg
http://www.cctvcentral.com/images/ht/rack2.jpg
http://www.cctvcentral.com/images/ht/rack3.jpg
http://www.cctvcentral.com/images/ht/rack4.jpg
http://www.cctvcentral.com/images/ht/rack5.jpg

tor ove then we probably have a similar screen :D ?
When you say high midtones and so, do you mean like skies and blue heaven or?

Just made a quick calibration with the DVE disk, and came up with the following settings.

Contrast 2.
Brightness -8 (-7 maybe).
Color 7.
Filter 1.
Sharpness 0.
Lamp economic & normal
Home theater mode.

Red 15
Green 13
Blue 15
Yellow 15

Congrats, Engine. Looks like a good setup you have there... a great start, with some room for tweaking, acoustic treatments, etc...

Does anyone have this projector running over HDMI? How did you do it? I have a Toshiba MT700 and am having no luck. The only guys on that thread have got it running using BNC cables and I don't want to give up my second component input.

I have it running hdmi from the dvi output on my iScan HD+ with a 40' dvi-hdmi cable. I couldn't get the bnc cable to work.
Warren.

I'm using a DVI to HDMI cable with a Gefen switcher between a Dish 921 and HTPC. The projector immediately recognized 720p DVI from both sources without any problems. Same before the switch was in line.

Anyone using the great Onkyo SP1000 with HDMI? I was told the JVC HM5U works fine with HDMI as does a Directv HD TIVO with HDMI. So anyone using an Onkyo SP1000?

Steve, what kind of video card does the HTPC have? What is it set at?

Im running DVI to HDMI from a Geforce PNY 6800u. In the NVIDIA display properties it even detects the 7700 as the display device and all the HD and 1080i and all that jazz options are there.

Problem Im seeing though from using the HDMI and not the SVGA to BNC break out is in Battlefield2 it only lets me select 1024 or 800x600....and then it defaults to 1080i and it has a jitter. Real slight but I can see it. I could have sworn when using the BNC cable I was able to select more display modes than that.

I played the Star Wars republic commando demo though and it looked amazing. Im not sure what rez it ran in because it kept switching until it settled on something. But the image was very sharp. BF2 image is blurry. Even on my tan walls that you see in the pix link above, the colors, though a tad dark, are very vibrant. I dont want to kill the bulb playing games, but what the hell..you only live once.

Does anyone have this projector running over HDMI? How did you do it? I have a Toshiba MT700 and am having no luck. The only guys on that thread have got it running using BNC cables and I don't want to give up my second component input.
I've run the 7700 from HDMI from two different sources (HD950 DVD player and PC using a DVI-HDMI adapter) without any difficulty.

Im running DVI to HDMI from a Geforce PNY 6800u. In the NVIDIA display properties it even detects the 7700 as the display device and all the HD and 1080i and all that jazz options are there.
Aha! The Nvidia 6600 detects my TV as an analogue monitor! I bet there's a problem in the Toshiba firmware that doesn't identify what it is in the HDCP handshake. This same video card saw my Hitachi tv right down to the model number over DVI, and the TV was 3 years old!

Nothru - I have my MT700 running perfect on a 50' HDMI to HDMI 24 gauge cable. I connect it directly from my Samsung HDDVD 850 and though a DVI-HDMI adapter from my Comcast HD cable box.

That your card detects the 3 yr old TV is great; perhaps you need new drivers to id the much newer projector?

I have tried the 71, 76, and the newest 77.72 drivers. Are you saying that you have an HTPC running on your setup? I have had sucess getting my Panasonic S97 to work over this same HDMI cable.

Notrhu22, my card is an ATI 9600 with very recent catalyst drivers. 720P is one of the default resolutions, so need to use powerstrip.

I've run the 7700 from HDMI from two different sources (HD950 DVD player and PC using a DVI-HDMI adapter) without any difficulty.
Oh... I forgot to mention that I'm using a Radeon XT850 Platinum video card. My card, too, has 720p as a default resolution, so I haven't used anything like Powerstrip.

In any case, my projector hasn't had trouble identifying the signal from either my upconverting DVD player or my PC.

That makes me think I should hook my friend's laptop up to it and see if his ATI card identifies it.

TheEngine, Battlefield 2 doesn't have widescreen resolutions. That really sucks. You can add to the shortcut prompt +szx 1280 +szy 720. It stretches so the FOV is messed up. You could fix that on BF:Vietnam, but not BF2. Hopefully they will fix that in a patch. At least it will fill the screen.

Whats strange is theres only 800x600 and 1024x768 settings to select. I cant go past 1024. I hope they fix it because I moved my game box into the HTPC role and Ive yet to buy BF2 and probably wont until it supports my projector. I know Im a minority (along with other projector users) but it would be sweet at native 720p. I would imagine the HT gaming segment is only going to get bigger though over time as more people find out how easy it is to have a monster monitor displaying games.

Has anyone used the BNC breakout in POP mode along with HDMI? I wonder how good that would be to have head to head racing/gaming on the same wall with another PC. It seems the display is rather distorted when in POP mode unless Im not doing something right....

Has anyone used the BNC breakout in POP mode along with HDMI? I wonder how good that would be to have head to head racing/gaming on the same wall with another PC. It seems the display is rather distorted when in POP mode unless Im not doing something right....try some lower resolutions for the POP windows.

Engine, the previous poster told you how to do 720p.

I am calibrating a Sony HS51 on Saturday and will share my opinion. I know that WSR, TPV, and HT Mag all gave it good reviews but could not get a flat grayscale, especially at low luminance levels. The PE7700, on the other hand, easily calibrates to a flat grayscale.

I'm champing at the bit. Can you provide a comparison? Or did I miss your post somewhere?

Thanks

HI, just for the information.
Just saw a post which said that the 7700 new firm will be delayed up to 4 weeks from BenQ?

nothru22, yea I saw that but he says the field of view is still messed, I dont want a hack :) Hopefully it will get resolved from a patch

Actually the BF2 FOV isn't messed up in the sense that it's stretched. A little is cut off the top and bottom, like a zoom mode for watching 4:3 content. See here (http://www.widescreengamingforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1079&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15) for some comparison shots.

Considering that everything appears larger in the 16:9 view, it's not a terrible trade off. It's certainly better than playing 4:3 non-pixel mapped. This is how I play on my widescreen LCD and it works pretty well.

So as not to tee of the OT police - my card just got charged on my backordered Smart III, so I should have contrast numbers as well as CC20R/CC30R results soon.

Hello guys, I'm considering this projector for my HT setup.

I have two concerns:

It doesn't have lens shift... my PJ will not be mounted level w/ the top of the screen - does this mean I have to keystone?

Whats the verdict on the noise level of this PJ? It will be about 5-6' from my ears... I plan on running it in high mode. Will I hear it (with my speakers OFF)? What about eco-mode?

Thanks in advance.

Hello guys, I'm considering this projector for my HT setup.

I have two concerns:

It doesn't have lens shift... my PJ will not be mounted level w/ the top of the screen - does this mean I have to keystone?

Whats the verdict on the noise level of this PJ? It will be about 5-6' from my ears... I plan on running it in high mode. Will I hear it (with my speakers OFF)? What about eco-mode?

Thanks in advance.
Ideally your projector should be level with the top of your screen. Whether you have to keystone depends on how close to that level you are. (Mine is about 2 inches too low right now. I'm going to fix it, but don't really NEED to since it only makes a difference of a fraction of an inch between the width at the top and the width at the bottom of the screen. If you are considerably off from the top of your screen, though, (or the bottom if table mounting) you would need to use keystoning. From what I've seen, the keystoning is pretty good even though it's not ideal.

The noise level is very low on this projector. Mine is mounted just a little behind me and about 4 feet above my head. I can hear it with the speakers off, but I have to be consciously listening for it to notice, and I don't notice at all with the movie soundtrack on.

I had mine a foot from my head and didn't notice with the movie on. Now that it is ceiling mounted it is nothing. My friends Infocus X1 sounded like a jet in comparision.

Warren.

Heh, I was mentioning to my wife how it's difficult to notice whether the PJ received the IR "on" signal from the remote, because my old X1 would startup like the sound of a wind-up toy race car.

If you need to keystone, I would also recommend having a screen with some sort of light-absorbing (black) border. You almost certainly won't be able to tell that it's keystoned.

yahmoncool, I have it about 2' directly above 2 of my seats and in Econo mode its just a whisper. Id consider it very acceptable.

Okay well its definitely on my list. The top of my screen is about 3 feet below the ceiling, my PJ would be about one foot from the ceiling. This is a big problem then?

What is the closest distance that you can watch this projector without being bothered by screen door or pixilation? One screen width? 1.5?
I know it depends somewhat on the viewer and the material, but what is the experience of those of you who have one?

why do you ask?

I don't know b/c the only DLP PJ I've seen was a Business PJ, I've been told that HT PJs are much better in this regard.

I have my couch/speakers set up to 2x screen width. So thats what I'm stickin' with. Later I might enlarge the screen size if this becomes too small. But the seating area is staying as is.

TrickMcKaha -- In the demo that I saw of the MT700 (the PE7700's brother), we were sitting at 1.35 x screen width and neither I nor ChrisW6ATV (my gracious host) saw any SDE or other bothersome artifacts.

Like you said, it's viewer dependent (I've received members comment that they saw SDE at 2x screen width on a Z3 -- and I saw none until I got to less than 1x, even when trying to be very critical). I've had a 640 x 480 LCD PJ for many years (80", 4:3, screen), and I know what SDE looks like, because it was very obvious on that PJ.

I was interested to read the other day that the DLP projectors used in digital cinemas (e.g., the ones that showed the most recent Star Wars movie) are slightly de-focused to eliminate any "screen-door" effects. I've had customers who did the same thing on their DLP projectors and preferred the look.

My point is that if your sitting close to the screen and see pixels, this is a possible option to address the situation.

Even with my pj perfectly focused I sit at 1.3x screen width and see no SDE. I also sometimes sit at 1x for the Imax effect and while I can see pixelation when I look for it, it doesn't bug me too much. For reference I was extremely bothered by SDE at anything lower than 1.9x on my 4805. 720p is a whole other ballgame in terms of SDE - the pixels are so much smaller that they are much less bothersome.

I generally run my pj with just the slightest bit of defocus. Since the object is to recreate infinite resolution, blurring the pixel borders just a bit seems like a step in the right direction. I *think* I like this better in A/Bing, but since I've not done blind A/Bing who knows. It's definitely worth trying out.

What is the closest distance that you can watch this projector without being bothered by screen door or pixilation? One screen width? 1.5?
I know it depends somewhat on the viewer and the material, but what is the experience of those of you who have one?

I have no problem watching at 1.2x.
At this distance I can see clearly SDE on my previous 720p LCD. I'm sure it's the high fill factor of DLP that makes it disappear.

I can't even see screen door at 0.5x width, but that's with my glasses off.. :D

With my glasses on, it's about 1.0x width...

Almost always it's the source material (even HD cable) that's the limiting factor in quality with my new PJ (wasn't the case with my old X1 though).

Does anyone use the Chief mount with the PE7700? If I want the center of the lens to be 12" down from ceiling, how long of a pipe extension do I need to order? Not sure how much the bottom of the projector is from the center of lens nor do I know the height of the mount itself....

It's about 2" from the center of the lens to the bottom of the projector... not sure how that particular mount is adjusted, and it's range, etc...

someone on the other forum (700) just mentioned that the Chief is a great mount for this projector. You might want to check over there.

I have a 3410 w/dvi out and am using dvi-hdmi cable to my PE 7700 & am up and running with no problems. I have had my unit up only since Sunday and have not calibrated with my avia disk yet. That being said I'm very pleased with the PQ out of the box. I built my own ceiling mount, under $20, I'm mounted center of lens 13" below ceiling at a 16/9 119" Daylight manufacturer spec 1.5 gain C screen, running at econ. mode. My room has ambient light but picture is intense enough for general viewing.

Has anyone used the S77 with this projector? It appears from over in the DVD forum that some are getting horrible MB with this player, but it appears to be display dependent.

Jim

Has anyone used the S77 with this projector? It appears from over in the DVD forum that some are getting horrible MB with this player, but it appears to be display dependent.MikeSRC has suggested that DVD player in this post:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5667379&&#post5667379

I'm not sure if that means he's actually used it with the MT700/PE7700 though...

smithsonga, I have the Chief RPA LCD/DLP ceiling mount and its installation is painless. Lots of adjustment points and easy Projector ON Projector OFF thumbscrews from the main housing to the bracket mounted to the projector. 1.5" threaded pipe from HD and a flange and I was set. The beam I mounted to is off canter and someday I'll take the time to do a better mount so the pipe is not angled, but for now its fine.

http://www.cctvcentral.com/images/ht/rack2.jpg

Anyone having any problems over HMDI with this projector? I have a Denon 3910 with HDMI and want to make sure they are compatible. The only reason I bring it up is because someone started another thread saying the only compatible DVD player with HDMI was a panasonic???? That sounds ludicrous to me, but anything is possible I guess.

I've had my unit running for about a week on an Oppo thru the DVI to HDMI and now I can't get a signal at all on HDMI. Video and component is OK though.

I'm interested in the 7700 but I'm confused about its offset. I know the bottom of the image on the screen is at the midpoint of the lens, but is this the bottom of the black bar under the image or the bottom of the lighted portion of the image on the screen?

why would there be a black bar?

It has a "zero" offset, which means that the middle-horizontal of the PJ's lense has to be perfectly even with the top (white) part of your screen, for a ceiling mounted PJ. For shelf, it's the bottom (white) part of the screen.

I'm interested in the 7700 but I'm confused about its offset. I know the bottom of the image on the screen is at the midpoint of the lens, but is this the bottom of the black bar under the image or the bottom of the lighted portion of the image on the screen?

Greetings: center of lens, bottom of the full projected image. You only get a black bar on DVD. You fill the whole screen with HDTV. Think HDTV. -art

I will receive my 7700 next week (totally delayed two weeks)
the sale told me it is due to the firmware update issue

smithsonga, I have the Chief RPA LCD/DLP ceiling mount and its installation is painless. Lots of adjustment points and easy Projector ON Projector OFF thumbscrews from the main housing to the bracket mounted to the projector. 1.5" threaded pipe from HD and a flange and I was set. The beam I mounted to is off canter and someday I'll take the time to do a better mount so the pipe is not angled, but for now its fine.

http://www.cctvcentral.com/images/ht/rack2.jpg

I'm also using the Chief mount for this PJ (mine is an MT700). In my case, I had to keep the PJ close to the ceiling, so I didn't have room for a pipe. This makes the side-to-side adjustment (yaw?) very difficult, as the bolts in the mounting slots can only be accessed with the PJ off of the mount. I gave up on that and mounted the Chief mount to a 10" piece of oak 1x4 which I then mounted to the ceiling joist with one lag bolt on each side of the projector. By slotting one of the bolt holes, I'm now able to make this adjustment with the PJ in place. A bit more work, but it gave me the same adjustment clarity as the other two adjustments (pitch and roll?) that, as was just stated, are very convenient. I really like the ridgidity and "heft" of the Chief mounts.

I know this should be in the screens section but I have a PE7700 question related to one of the images below.

Well, took my turn at a DIY screen:

The screen sits about 1/2" in on the frame so I still have room to add another plas-tex. Only 10 bucks at the Menards by me. Thinking of painting one with SS or goo or something to see the difference.

Parkland Duratherm (I think) The rigid plastic backing board (Put an image on that when it was first up, lots of hot-spotting).
Parkland Plas-tex
Henry 444 glue (Anyone need a gallon of this stuff?)
1x3 select Pine
cheap-O black fabric from Joanns

I think total cost was about $80.00 for the material.
Took me 4 hours to do. Now mind you Im in no way a construction kind of guy, computers is my gig.

1. Hung up the lower trim piece to level it off and get the screen size adjusted right to the miter on the trim.
2. Mounted the Parkland backing board with drywall screws.
3. Applied the adhesive (didnt make that much of a mess, amazing) Glued the smoothside down because they said that was the one treated to accept glue....
4. Applied the Plas-tex. This went surprisingly easy.
5. Attached the fabric to all the trim pieces after measureing and cutting.

Called the wife down to say "Not bad huh" and got a glowing review from her :)

Now in image screen.jpg there are 2 black bars above and below the movie but in desktop and in the menu portion of the movie its fullscreen. Is that normal or do I not have something set right?

http://www.cctvcentral.com/images/ht/noscreen.jpg
http://www.cctvcentral.com/images/ht/screen.jpg

The screen is 16:9 (1.78:1) and The Incredibles is a cinemascope movie with a ratio of 2.35:1, hence the black bars top and bottom - that's normal. :)

Gary.

I will receive my 7700 next week (totally delayed two weeks)
the sale told me it is due to the firmware update issue

Now that is strange. I have heard nothing about a firmware upgrade, but my local dealer got in about 30 units on June 30th, with another batch that size expected before mid month.

I will ask the BenQ product manager on Tuesday, if there is such an upgrade. Mostly though, BenQ now dropships product to major dealers directly from Taiwan, and they are consistantly screwed up in delivering on a timely basis. Something they promise to correct. -art

Now that is strange. I have heard nothing about a firmware upgrade, but my local dealer got in about 30 units on June 30th, with another batch that size expected before mid month.
Somebody else mentioned this elsewhere, but when you say "my local dealer" do you mean the dealer you work 25 hours per week for?

--Darin

There is a new firmware for the 7700.
But for now it will not be put out for download.

I was in contact with BenQ support locally friday, and they are sending me an upgraded projector with out a lamp. Then I put my lamp i the upgraded projector, and return my "old" one to their service pool.

Don't know about all the features of the new firm, but the main reason I was in contact with them was because component signals doesn't put out BTB, still HDMi does.
This issue was one of the errors that is corrected in the new firm.

My local dealer also was in touch with support, and they told my dealer neither the dealer or customer will be able to upgrade the firmware. Support wanted everybody claiming upgrade to directly contact BenQ support for arrangement of the upgrade.

Seems maybe they want to by-pass any possible chances we hoze our projectors then they have to warranty it, or we hoze it and then fight for the warranty...I dunno..I flash my stuff all the time, mobo....phone...neighbors....seems I do ok. Wonder who will pay shipping.

Please allow a few questions after I have read pages and pages of posts on this thread over the last few months:

1. Are all these dithering problems common for most of you owners?? Is it more related to HTPC or any components? Some have posted that they love the picture from this projector and others are really bothered by the dithering and it sounds like you have to have an upconverted HDTV DVD player to get good DVD PQ?

2. Are people watching HDTV from satellite and how does that look?

3. Can a DIY person get quality manufacturer's screens from them without having to buy the frame?

4. How is the IR system of this projector? Can you aim toward your screen even though the projector is above your head? Where can you get a decent priced IR system to run all your component from one position away from your equipment rack?

Thanks.
Tim

4. How is the IR system of this projector? Can you aim toward your screen even though the projector is above your head? Where can you get a decent priced IR system to run all your component from one position away from your equipment rack?


It is very good at IR-reception.
7700 has several IR-receivers, both front and top-back allowing me to point the remote at the screen og anywhere near, and it responds very well.

Now that is strange. I have heard nothing about a firmware upgrade, but my local dealer got in about 30 units on June 30th, with another batch that size expected before mid month.

I will ask the BenQ product manager on Tuesday, if there is such an upgrade. Mostly though, BenQ now dropships product to major dealers directly from Taiwan, and they are consistantly screwed up in delivering on a timely basis. Something they promise to correct. -art

My situation is special. The 7700 has not be launched in my city officially. I ordered one directly from the local dealer/distributor with 3 weeks delivery guarantee.

The small batch (of a few units, I guess) for special orders would have arrived their stockroom on 18/6 if on schedule and has been delayed to 5/7 now.

The "global" 3-year warranty policy is not applicable in my city (2-year instead). That is strange though there is a little bit cut in price to compensate.

Well, I am a bit confused :o .

This is the answer from BenQ.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dear Sir,

We have withdrawn the last batch of units, because we discovered a manufacturing error in this batch before we started the sales. Unfortunately we're not able to solve it with software and have to bring back the units to our manufacturing site and solve the issue. The error has been solved and manufacturing has been resumed, however ti will take some time, before we can fullfill the demand to this already very popular model.

Since this error was not in the previous batch of sold models, there is no need to repair these units.

If you have any further concern, please let me know.

Best regards,

Paul Welp
Customer Service Specialist
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have a 7700 (produced in March) and this production batch obviously does not have the "manufacturing error" they now have fixed in the later production batches? However my 7700 does not show BTB over component and the IRE menu is greyed out / locked at 0 IRE.

tor ove, what is it that they have changed on the new unit you received from BenQ? If you can see it that is?

1. Are all these dithering problems common for most of you owners?? Is it more related to HTPC or any components? Some have posted that they love the picture from this projector and others are really bothered by the dithering and it sounds like you have to have an upconverted HDTV DVD player to get good DVD PQ?
I haven't noticed dithering problems specifically, but I have noticed that my non-progressive (cheap) DVD player source doesn't look all that great on the projector. I'm going to be hooking up an HTPC via DVI/HDMI and expect it to be quite a bit better... we'll see how it turns out.
2. Are people watching HDTV from satellite and how does that look?
Nope, but I have HDTV over cable (Comcast). The quality is awesome -- only some slight source issues, as it's running through a DVR and it looks like very slight MPEG artifacts that you can only see a few feet from the screen.
3. Can a DIY person get quality manufacturer's screens from them without having to buy the frame?You may be able to get more info about this in the screen forums, as far as what each manufacturer will do. It's probably a good idea to call the companies that you're interested in. My guess is Carada will do this, since the company is owned by an AV enthusiast and customer service is a high priority for him (and he'll sell two screens w/one frame for sure).4. How is the IR system of this projector? Can you aim toward your screen even though the projector is above your head? Where can you get a decent priced IR system to run all your component from one position away from your equipment rack?I was a little surprised when I had the remote pointing away from the projector sitting on the coffee table, and close to my body (I was near the screen), and I just hit the power button quick (the IR had to bounce of off me), and it recognized it no problem. I'm sure fresh batteries help in this regard.

Getting the unit thursday - what do you guys think the best setting for my DVD player (Denon 2910) would be? 720p? 1080i?

Theoretically, the native resolution of the display (720p). But I would try both and see which you like better -- that's all that really matters anyway.

This is true. Is there a tweak thread out there as well? I'd like to know what sort of tweaks I should make on this PJ once it arrives.

I assume you are going to connect the 2910 to the BenQ via HDMI. I've run some tests with AVIAPro using this exact same set up, and the 720p resolution should be the best option for the reasons stated by miltimj. It may be hard to tell the difference between 720p and 1080i just watching DVDs because the Denon and BenQ do such a good of processing, but when running test patterns, there are slightly fewer artifacts at 720p.

You will also need to make sure you have black levels set correctly. I don't recall the specific settings for the Denon, but use a test pattern from AVIA or DVE to make sure you are not crushing blacks and that you are retaining detail at low luminance levels.

Send me a PM, and I will provide you some settings from mine after doing an ISF calibration on it. By the way, I think you are going to really enjoy this projector. I watched Master & Commander the other night, and was impressed how well it handled the inherently dark images of this movie.

The Engine,
I don't have black bars. I made a 2.35 screen and use a Panamorph lens to convert 16x9 to 2.35.
I spent big bucks on the iScan HD+ and lens then made a screen for like 20 bucks. Just for testing. 16 bucks of Blackout cloth with two rolls of black ribbon from walmart for like a buck 35 for a border.
I have to zoom down for the panaporph to work right in my room, so I have to decide between 120" 2.35 screen or a 133" 16x9. A lot of what I watch is 2.35 (star wars, the mummy, Independence day (last night of course), and pretty much every summer blockbuster.) I was suprised Hitch is even wider 2.40. The incredibles is one of very few 2.35 animated movies. I have spent a few weeks each way. I really like the bigger screen, but I like not having black bars too. Plus the panamorph adds a certain undefinable something. I am so confused.

Warren.

If I had the equipment for a 2.35 setup, I'd do that without hesitation (and will when I finally build a dedicated HT). Anamorphic widescreen movies are meant to look larger than 16:9 movies and HDTV, not smaller... Make that 2.35 screen as big as possible, and keep it, IMHO.

Screen type should selected based upon what format you spend or would spend the most time watching.

or
Which format you have or will have more native HD content of to watch.

(Thanks Miltimj for all the answers!)
Earlier the Samsung HD850 DVD player was mentioned. Using the HDMI connection to make use of the upconverted 1080i- how does that look on this projector? I see that the Toshiba SD-5980 is another reasonably priced player (well under $200) that upconverts to both 720p/1080i through HDMI. These seem like a very affordable option for pumping a high def DVD signal to this projector. Anyone have experience with this type of player compared to a standard progressive player which relies on the 7700 to do the conversion?

wnielsenbb

Considering my room size, I think Im maxed out at screen size. Anything larger would cause you to move your head almost to see other areas of the screen. Im not zoomed out all the way on my 7700. The other night we watched Finding Nemo and man, when the entire screen was filled it sure looked nice. Had a lot of the family over and got a lot of "wow's". Im content with the bars and trade offs with this setup. Maybe I'll come up with a masking system for the 2:35 movies. Time to read more :)

I've searched through this thread but didn't see a recommendation on settings, other than setting IRE to 0.
Is everyone using custom presets or Cinema or Home Theater or...? And what settings have you come up with?
TIA

Brian, someone posted settings in this thread, not too far back.
I think most of us use Home Theater mode.
Finding Nemo is sure the way to impress people with the projector. I went to a home theater store and they had finding nemo on the plasmas, but on the projectors they had some stupid documentary. Who buys a projector to watch documentaries. Another projector there had some poor quality concert film going. Not a good way to sell 10 grand projectors.
Warren.

I bought a photo filter and put in front of the lens.
The black level became amazing.

A Hoya NDx2 67mm filter is what you need. It cost me 65$ and is one of those jaw-dropping upgrades for a "few" bucks.

ND = Neutral Density.
x2 = halves the light output.

My 7700 is running eco-mode on a grey screen with the filter and Darth Vader's helmet has never been so dark and shiny in my home theater.

I've been reading how everyone is using filters, and I'm guessing you all have completely light-controlled rooms? Unfortunately I don't have one at this point... :( But I'm actually very happy with the contrast at the moment.

I gotta get me one of those filters, just waiting on the cc20r filter results.. With the panamorph lens increasing brightness and the smaller screen there are times the light hurts the eyes.
I was suprised how poor blacks are at the theater. One of those things you don't think of till you read these forums.
What size screen are you running tor ove?
Can you get those filters in a store in Phoenix do you suppose, or is that an online only thing?
Warren.

I use the same Hoya 67mm ND2 filter on my MT700. I wouldn't be without it. I have a light controlled room and a 1.5 gain 106" diagonal screen that I'll soon be replacing with a gray screen. Lamp in normal (low) mode.

Just wondering, since the Toshiba MT700 is a PE7700 clone, has anyone had any bulb problems with the PE7700?????

My screen is 100" Greyline, and the blacks are smokin' with the filter on.

These filters are commonly used among photographers and here in Norway most photo stores with some storage more than just developing have them on shelf.

The filters are neutral density, so all my calibrations parameters where the same. Tried to adjust color, brightness, contrast etc, but the values are the same with as with out the filter.

In my room there is about 95% light control and the filter really made a BIG difference.

Question:
Are most of you all pretty happy with the 7700?

i'm just doing a poll

Thanks
Tico
tico@tvauthority.com

I'm very happy wity my MT700 (clone)

Very happy with mine, no bulb problems..haven't used HDMI quite yet though (currently component).

Ceiling mounted and shooting on a plain Parkland Plastics BW screen (needs to be replaced, or at least painted, some day).

Cool. Thanks for your responses.

T

I am totally thrilled. Just shooting on blackout cloth. No problems of any sort.

Love it, shooting on a 106" Screen Innovations 1.3 gain screen.

I'm still loving mine. I did have a problem show up today, though (not a bulb problem).

When I put "The Incredibles" disc into my DVD player (Samsung HD950), I get an "HDMI Not Supported" message on the screen, and no picture - just blue screen. (We still watched the movie - we just used my PC over the analog monitor connection using the BNC converter.

Any suggestions? I haven't had the problem with any other discs.

Thanks.

I really would like to like this PJ... having a lot of problems with it lately... it may be a dud, I'll have to ask my seller.

I'm still loving mine. I did have a problem show up today, though (not a bulb problem).

When I put "The Incredibles" disc into my DVD player (Samsung HD950), I get an "HDMI Not Supported" message on the screen, and no picture - just blue screen. (We still watched the movie - we just used my PC over the analog monitor connection using the BNC converter.

Any suggestions? I haven't had the problem with any other discs.

Thanks.

I seem to remember a post or two with the same problem. I believe the fix was turning on the projector and changing the input to the DVD Player BEFORE turning on the DVD player. Could be backwards. Can't remember but try both :cool:

My turn for a question.

Now that you've all had your PE7700 for a while, has anyone seen a side-by-side comparison to the Optoma H77? I'm still digging through piles of threads using the search function to find a general consensus. I know the tech spec differences, but, in practice, which would you prefer? The only 720p projector I've been able to demo is an LCD Sony HS51. The Sony was side by side to a Runco 410 (a 576p DLP) and the Runco had more "pop" and a *lot* more contrast in dark areas on DVDs. On HDTV, it was a toss up. The only time I saw a rainbow effect was on SD signal. I've yet to see motion/panning artifacts in any projector I've seen in person, but blurry or dithered action scenes are my biggest pet peeve by far. It was enough to make me lean heavily towards DLP over LCD.

I can get either, the PE7700 (or MT700) or the Optoma H77 for roughly the same price. The room does not have complete light control during the day, but 90% of the viewing is after dark anyway. Light control is not an issue. My signature has a link to a rough rendering I did this afternoon of my space I have to work with.

If you could do it again and price was not a factor, which do you think you'd take home?

Thanks much for any insight.

Edit: Sig isn't working, grrr.

http://www.thevpg.com/chris/images/HT_rough1.jpg
http://www.thevpg.com/chris/images/HT_rough2.jpg

As the 7700 is my first projector, all I can say is "wow".


Watched Ladder 49 today while I built a DVR for a guy, moderate lights on and still a nice picture. Running in Econo mode but Ive not tweeked it out at all. Thinking of this Hoya filter folks are talking about and another parkland plas-tex painted with SS to do a direct comparison. Room lighting can be totally controlled. I'd like the screen to "vanish" if thats at all possible.

Not sure who had the HDMI problem with "The Incredibles" but it ran smooth off my HTPC DVI to HDMI. Just its 2:35 and I thought I screwed something up when I saw the 2 bars above and below the image.

I have the PE7700 in house as well as the AE700u and am trying to decide between the two. As with all electronics it seems there are always tradeoffs: price, RBE, VB etc.

This being my first proj. purchase my first impressions of both projectors are positive overall. After tweeking both with AVIA It is evident to me that the 7700 may be the better projector as it has a sharper picture and better blacks BUT I do see the RBE on the 7700. I found it interesting that my glasses intensify the problem though.

That said I wonder how many 7700 owners see RBE but it does not bother them. I don't seem to get headaches from it but U571 was somewhat colorful to me in the inside sub scenes on occasion. I am trying to enjoy the film and not focus in searching but I do still see it.

Please share your experience.

DonRC,
Try Smooth317 suggestion on the sync problem. Turn on the DVD player last.

Chasmo,
Thanks for posting the bulb issue here. Premature bulb failure should happen on the 7700 as well.

As a MT-700 owner, am fortunate to be enjoying the PJ, but wary of the ball drop.

Does anyone know what the lumen output is on the PE7700 AFTER calibration? Trying to decide between a PE7700, Sharp Z2000, and Optoma H77. If anyone has measured the lumen output after calibration, please let me know... thanks in advance.

Smooth, those are pretty crude drawings, but I think I can get the picture :) It is a simple problem, if you like better blacks get the H77, if you like a brighter picture get the 7700. If you aren't sure get the 7700 and if you decide you want better blacks get a filter. Still for the same price the H77 has better contrast than the 7700 with a filter. That would be my choice since I like blacks and you have light control.

Jeff, there are not a lot of failures compared to successes. I wouldn't fret over it.

Mimason, I saw RBE on my friends X1, but never have seen it on my 7700. I have perfect vision. I used to sit at 1:1 seating distance and thus had to move my head once and a while and still never seen it.

I just watched the incredibles last night, but with no black bars. I am really getting attached to 2.35. I put on the iScan HD+ beta software which finally supports 2.35. Very very nice. The funny thing was when my BO cloth screen fell off my wall the picture was still watchable on a dark brown wall.
My last wow was getting a Panny s97 dvd player. What a vast improvement over my Pioneer (which I bought just a few months ago.) There were scenes with terrible artifacts on the pioneer that are gone now.
So my wows are
1) 7700 projector and iScan HD+
2) Ascend Acoustics 340 speakers & SVS PB10 Subwoofer
3) Panamorph lens
4) Panasonic 97 dvd player.
I think the filter is my next wow. Hopefully a real screen after that.
Warren.

mimason, with my old X1 I saw RBE very rarely, and only in the most likely cases, such as white on dark, etc. Little enough to say that I never really saw it. I don't see RBE at all on my 7700 -- it's hard to say what I'd do if I saw RBE more, because I don't know how much it would bother me.

On a side note, I just noticed that I only have 75 hrs on the bulb.. time to get watching to make sure I have an okay bulb! (in so far as I can verify that, I suppose)

after much deliberation, i was this close

--> . < --

to making the PE7700 my final choice.

that was until i came across this comparison review ...

http://www.projectorreviews.com/review.asp?reid=43&page=2

now i appreciate the Optoma H78DC3 is the more expensive unit, but those screenshots show the PE7700 making a real pigs ear of those dvds. shadow detail seems to be mucho poor and the image looks much, much softer on dvds than the optomo's image. again, i suppose they would look better on the optomo (sigh!), but those photos almost make the PE7700 seem blurry.

are these photos a true-ish representation of the PE7700 ? is shadow detail really that bad ? and are dvds images much softer than other projectors ? (htpc or 480p standalone).

thanks

Another projectorreviews, "this one shows more stars" comment. See here (http://www.projectorreviews.com/review.asp?reid=33&page=3) for the first that had this thread going gaga over "SenseEye" - ooooh it shows more stars and you can't get them any other way. Later it was confirmed that proper contrast and black setup showed the same amount of starts on, at least on the MT700 / PE7700. Note how in both these comparisons the pj that shows more stars either has brightness pumped up or the digicam in auto mode skewed the brightness. You too can see craploads of stars if you pump brightness up enough to change black to gray.

If you are going to be using a 480i DVD player over component to the PE7700 then the projectorreview comparison to the H78 is valid. However it's a little nutty to connect a $20 DVD player to a $2500 pj.

I have a relatively good DVD player in the RP56 over component as well as an HTPC over HDMI connected to my MT700 (OEM of PE7700). The component connection looks like soft like Art's (projectorreviewer reviewer) 7700 picture. My HTPC picture looks sharp and detailed like the H78 picture.

There also is a bug in the 7700 / MT700 with black crush causing lost black information. This is easily remedied with a menu change on the MT700 (and I assume 7700 as well). Art doesn't mention whether he corrected this on his 7700.

It should be disclosed that Art at projectorreviews works 25 hours a week at projectorsolutions.com, which happens to be one of the few dealers selling the H78. He may not be intentionally favoring the H78 because of this, but conflicts of interest like this should be known.

The H78 still should crush the MT700 / 7700 in terms of contrast, assuming it's marketing on/off translates into a good real world contrast ratio. It also has color wheel sync in a user menu, which allows reduction of dithering effects. If the H78 worked for my throw distance I would be considering it, once it drops in price a little.

thanks FlyingGimp. that clears that up. that review is a tad misleading.

AndyM -- According to MikeSRC: Optoma does a few tricks with their circuit design to get better CR numbers than some.He posted that comment on my thread with regard to the H57 vs. the MT700/PE7700 (post #28).

If you read to the end where he points out it only puts out 270 lumens or so you will realize it isn't entirely a positive review. It is a darkchip 3 machine, so yes it should look better. It is also much more money. The dimness of it is one problem. He says you can only go 110" screen. That is just too little for me. The other is bulb life, only 2000 in normal (which given the dimness you would need,) or 2700 in echo, which isn't too great. If you got the bucks might as well go with the Optima H79. 4500:1 contrast is even better.

The brightness of this PJ is superb, as are the colors.

I'm still working on the clarity... it seems too soft to me. When I do some playing with it and have my screen up I'll post back.

Before you "drool" over the contrast ratio's you should also know that these CR's can only be as good as the room is. If you want CR's above aprox. 2000-2500 you need to have full light control AND a very dark ceiling and walls. If not well there is not much advantage.

Between the Optoma's and the Benq/Toshiba: The Optoma's have less lumens and therefore can achieve better CR and black levels. One of the "tricks " to get better blacklevels and CR on a Benq/Toshiba is to use filters and IFS calibrate.

You have to consider too that the H78 is $1,500 more expensive (60% price premium) than the BenQ... You could buy the BenQ and hold on to it through the warranty period of 3 years and then buy an Optoma H79 for that same $1,500...

The fact that the BenQ is in the same ballpark (performance) as the Optoma is impressive. Add in the customer service and reliability differences between the two companies, and it's even more impressive.

Take the screen shots with BOTH machines fully calibrated and running 720p images through DVI/HDMI... I'm willing to bet you that any differences you would see would be subtle at best...

Todd,

you nailed it;)

right on......

It seems Optoma is having bit of a problem with DOAs & QC department and not sure why. As Tom stated, it could be because the only ones posting are the ones having problems, and the ones that aren't, are happy clams enjoyin' their new toy......

I agree with Kjelt and Todd. I've calibrated a number of projectors lately that had incorrect black level settings on the projector and/or DVD player -- this makes a big difference between big and bright and WOW!.

I really think that a lot of reported projector problems are a function of mismatches between the video source and the projector rather than the projector itself. I'm sure of this because an artifact, color, resolution, or black level problem goes away as soon as I connect a very accurate video source like the Accupel signal generator. One of the untouted benefits of an ISF calibration is that it will include a check that the DVD player is set-up to maximize the PQ of the particular projector.

I'm also continually surprised at what a difference the room set-up and paint scheme can make in contrast ratio. If you want an effective upgrade to your PQ, black out all windows, seal all doors (if light comes through), and paint your room a dark color -- blue, maroon, or plum are good options if the "significant other" objects to black.

Finally, the same projector will look very different depending on the screen, especially when comparing DIY screens, gray screens, and screens with gain.

Its impossible to tell, but I often wonder if complaints about any projector are the results of a less-than-optimal set up.

I'm being lazy here, but what are the screen recomendations for the BenQ for a TOTALLY light controlled environment? No windows, no doors that let in light... can't see your hand in front of your face kind of light control...

I'm looking at a 1.0 gain white screen and a 1.3 gain white screen... should I look at grey? Which one? My birthday is coming soon and I will place an order for a screen and PJ on that day... inputs appreciated.

Vashon,

I've only heard from ONE person (in a PM) that was happy about the H78 that either didn't sell them or wasn't affiliated with Optoma... and that was his first PJ.

I'll be the first to admit I was excited about the H78 announcement... but looking at the comments and closely reading the posts (and reading between the lines), I'm having difficulty justifying the price difference. My wife was actually surprised when I told her today that was leaning back towards the BenQ.

While I can afford the Optoma (Actually, for $500 difference, I would just get the H79), the "value" seeker in me can't bite on it. I only wish that IF would offer more internet pricing on the 7205 and 7210... since most PJ buyers purchase "in the blind" and I have only been able to see one of those projectors... I can't buy off on the HUGE percentage increase in price over the BenQ.

Todd,

If I were you, I'd take one of two approaches regarding the screen:
- Get various screen materials from manufacturers, and see which one you like
- Use a cheap DIY material to try different colors on to get a general idea

In either case, you may want to consider a lens to filter the light, but I personally would probably lean toward a grey screen before I'd get a filter. When it comes that time though, I'll probably do the first option above.

Regarding the IF7205, I demoed that projector locally at a dealer for the sole purpose of using it as a benchmark before I upgraded (from an X1) to the BenQ. Basically, a sanity check. If you can see an IF7205 locally, go for it, and if you like it, you'll be very happy with the BenQ (I think the BenQ is definitely as good, and probably a little better, than the 7205). Regardless, the 7700 was a lot cheaper! IMO, the 7700 is the best value projector on the market (assuming you'll watch HD sources with it), and you can always use that money on a great screen and/or audio or room treatments, etc.

ditto with Tim on the grey screen....

Tom mentioned the Optoma GreyWolf (1.8 gain) will be in fixed & electric sometime soon.....

shoot a pm over to Daniel or Jason for screen samples or just call the manufact. directly.

it's really hard to buy sight unseen, even when ONE person complains about a hardware problem they can't nail on their own.

I seem to remember a post or two with the same problem. I believe the fix was turning on the projector and changing the input to the DVD Player BEFORE turning on the DVD player. Could be backwards. Can't remember but try both :cool:
Nope. That wasn't it. The problem seems to be DVD-specific. I took the Incredibles DVD out of the player and put another in and it worked just fine. Then when I went back to The Incredibles (either disc), I get the "HDMI Not Supported" message.

The disc works fine, though, when I play it on my PC (through the projector using the BNC adapter), so it doesn't seem to be a bad disc.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

My MT700 was calibrated to 6500K and I saw zero rainbows except in the Grid test screen, which nearly killed me. First time I turned that on in a dark room my eyes went 2 different directions trying to focus. Ouch, went the head. But zero watching any sort of TV. I even tried to make some show up with high contrast scenes, like white credits on black. Never came up except for the Grid.

But I've since had the lamp replaced due to a fault. I have not calibrated with the new lamp and I now see RBE all the time in dark scenes. Really need to get this calibrated again, that will hopefully be this weekend.

It is also worse if my eyes are tired. I haven't been able to figure out if glasses or contacts is worse. One night my contacts were old, so they were dry and my eyes were trying to compensate. Plus I was watching Unbreakable. RBE was worst that night. Replacing the contacts and getting some sleep changed RBE dramatically.

I guess Im doing pretty good. Ive had problems in the past with low refresh rate monitors (I can see 60hz and it makes me dain bramaged) but with this projector I hardly see SDE at 2' (nothing at 9.5') and I've yet to see any indicators of a RBE and not one of my family has mentioned they see anything weird other than a huge bright image that seems to "jump" off the screen. Just ordered a HD receiver from dishnetwork (leased) so now I gotta learn the HD ropes when it comes to my HTPC. More reading.

Its impossible to tell, but I often wonder if complaints about any projector are the results of a less-than-optimal set up.

Most people don't use a test disk like Avia to set the white and black levels, and these two simple adjustments can make a huge impact in black level, detail and overall contrast. WIth a digital it's especially important to set the black level or you can get artefacts (mostly dark area) being visible and thay will make the image look awfull.

Gary

My screen is 100" Greyline, and the blacks are smokin' with the filter on.

These filters are commonly used among photographers and here in Norway most photo stores with some storage more than just developing have them on shelf.

The filters are neutral density, so all my calibrations parameters where the same. Tried to adjust color, brightness, contrast etc, but the values are the same with as with out the filter.

In my room there is about 95% light control and the filter really made a BIG difference.

Tor, what does the filter do? Does it just reduce the light output, or something else?

Thanks

That's right. It only reduces the light output. And most important of all, it then also reduces the light that leaks between the mirrors. The result is a slight dimmer picture, but the blacklevel really gets a boost.

This being my first projector, I have a question about the zoom. I have roughly 12.5' throw distance, so I've used the projection calculator at projectorcentral.com for the 7700 and at 1.00x zoom, it shows a 96" diagonal. If the zoom is increased to 1.36x, the diagonal increases to 129". Is there a drawback in maxing out the zoom? If there is, is the drawback inherant in that it projects the image with less quality or environmental in that a slightly larger screen catches more reflected light off of surrounding walls / ceiling?

I plan on ordering a PE7700 on Friday, so I'm trying to get an idea of how big a screen I'm going to need.

Also, Tim's DIY method mentioned the mounting screws on the PE7700 are M6-1.0 metric threads. Is that standard across pretty much all projectors? For a ceiling mount, the omnimounts seem like they'd do the job, but the 7700 (and the MT700) isn't listed in their compatibility PDF for the PMD-.5, 1 or 2. Has anyone here used an Omnimount? Which model?

I may just go ahead and build myself one similar to Tim's. Looks pretty clean to me. :) The plexiglass in that small of a cut may be hard to get ahold of though. I'd have to check but I think HD only has it in huge window sized lengths.

That's right. It only reduces the light output. And most important of all, it then also reduces the light that leaks between the mirrors. The result is a slight dimmer picture, but the blacklevel really gets a boost.

So, does it reduce light output to half? The specs for the lens say 2x, does it mean I will only get 50% of the lumens? This would mean a 550 lumen output?

I dont quite get it!!

Thanks

Chris, all projectors look better at min zoom, something in the optics. It is better to have the projector further back at min zoom than close at large zoom. The light over the whole screen is hitting closer to the same angle. In reality I don't think you could tell much difference. I tried min and max zooms and the only difference really is in brightness. Spreading the same light over a larger area makes it dimmer. I actually liked that effect though, others must also, as they are putting filters on to reduce light. What I recommend is go to a fabric store and buy some blackout cloth. It only costs like 18 bucks or so. Then you can try different sizes and see what you like.
The M6 screws are standard metric screws, but not standard for all projectors. Many I assume, but some are M4, etc.
I am sure the Omnimount will work, that would be the Omni part. :)
Warren.

Chris,

In general, you want to use minimal zoom. You can do a search in this forum for zoom and get a bunch of reasons why, but in general they relate to how good the PJ's optics are, having the PJ farther back typically moves noise away from listening position, and more throw ratio to minimize chromatic abberation (CA) and make it better for use in 2.35:1 anamorphic setups. It looks like with your room the farthest back you can go is 12.5', so just mount it back there and make the screen as big as you like. The difference is really not that noticeable in a typical setup, so don't worry about it in your case.

Edit: Warren, if you change throw but also change zoom such that the image is the same size, the brightness will essentially be the same. (At least, I think this is what Chris is asking.)

Here's a link for reference:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=556704

Regarding the screws, not all projectors have the same size female threads for mounting. That typically shouldn't matter though, as long as your universal mount doesn't have threads; you'll just have to buy different bolts for each projector, if necessary. I've found that my DIY mount was a great value, was not noticeable (after all, you can see through it..), and works well with it. Only downside is with a new projector, I'd have to make a different bottom plate (unless it's close enough to maybe drill another couple holes). You'd just need to find the smallest plexiglas that still fits the bill, but have it big enough to make two mounts or so, so you have some extra for the future.

I was just saying (not very well mind you) I wouldn't go to a smaller screen size just because of some small potential for chromatic abberation. If you have to use max zoom and crank up the size. You will love it. Or maybe not. Some people don't like the IMax experience. I do.
Warren.

Great info fellas. Answered everything I was wondering about. Really appreciate the help.

At 12.5' with no zoom, the 96" diagonal should be plenty big enough. I'm planning on building a blackout screen to start out with until I'm sure of the size we want. We can always move into a da-lite or stewart fixed wall screen down the road.

Can't freaking wait to break out Braveheart and Battlefield 2 on this bad boy.

Great info fellas. Answered everything I was wondering about. Really appreciate the help.

At 12.5' with no zoom, the 96" diagonal should be plenty big enough. I'm planning on building a blackout screen to start out with until I'm sure of the size we want. We can always move into a da-lite or stewart fixed wall screen down the road.

Can't freaking wait to break out Braveheart and Battlefield 2 on this bad boy.
You might consider just projecting on the wall (assuming it's not a *really* dark wall) at different sizes to see what you like. I thought about doing a screen around 96". In the end I decided to go with 120" diagonal and I'm glad I did. The projector is plenty bright for it, and it really gives the big screen feel. (I sit about 11-12 feet back.) Of course, people's preferences vary, so I'd recommend trying out some different sizes to see what you think.

I may do just that until I build the screen, perhaps with a bed sheet.

120" diagonal would be about 5' tall (59") on an 8' wall. Probably hard to find 5' wide blackout cloth, I'd guess. Seating is ~12' from the screen so for a 1.5x viewing distance to screen width ratio, that'd be a 110" diagonal (96" wide). If I can't tell any difference in the picture quality between 1.0x zoom and 1.14x, that may be the sweet spot for me. 5'x8' screen. Holy crap. :eek:

I'm using around a 98" screen on a 4'x8' sheet of Parkland Plastics ($13), watching from 13' back or so... want to go bigger, but I'm not going to until I actually buy a screen and go beyond that 4' height "barrier" (barrier to cheap materials, that is). It's fine for now, but I will make it bigger once I have a dedicated room for it. You shouldn't have a problem finding blackout cloth in 5 foot widths.

Hey Guys,
This forum has been very informative. I will probably buy the PE7700 in a few months, when my theater room is done. I want to know if anyone has hooked up the ISCAN HD+ to the 7700 and if it is worth the $1K. I do have alot of homemade DVD's recorded from an s-video source that I will be watching as well as HDTV.
Thanks

Kustom81, I have the toshiba MT700 (nearly identical). If you already own the iScan HD+ then I am sure you won't be dissapointed. However, unless you need the iScan for de-interlacing/upscaling other sources, I'd go with a good upscaling DVD player such as the Oppo or Panasonic S77. You'll save $800, and still get a great picture.

ssj2
Thanks for the hint. I just thought it might spruce up my homemade DVD's. When I watch them on my Samsung DLP TV they look OK but not great. They were recorder with S-video. If they are already bad wouold the ISCAN make them better?

You can only do so much trickery with a bad source. The best quality you could hope for would be possible through an HTPC via various software processing options (see HTPC forum for details). Next best would probably be an external scaler like the iScanHD+, and the next best probably a good upscaling DVD player as Steve suggests (followed by progressive DVD players, then non-progressive).

The S-video recorded DVD source is not the best quality, and it's up to you how much price/performance you're comfortable with. I'm with Steve that it's probably not worth buying an iScanHD+, since you can get very nearly as good of quality through various relatively inexpensive DVD players. Save your money for the next gen players.

In a nutshell, yes, the iScan would make them look better, but probably not good enough to justify $1K.

I may do just that until I build the screen, perhaps with a bed sheet.

120" diagonal would be about 5' tall (59") on an 8' wall. Probably hard to find 5' wide blackout cloth, I'd guess. Seating is ~12' from the screen so for a 1.5x viewing distance to screen width ratio, that'd be a 110" diagonal (96" wide). If I can't tell any difference in the picture quality between 1.0x zoom and 1.14x, that may be the sweet spot for me. 5'x8' screen. Holy crap. :eek:I did the same thing while waiting for my 120" SilverStar to be made and if I'm not mistaken, the best you can do for blackout cloth is 54" in height. It will give you a 110" diagonal image (54 x 96). What you can do is get a few extra inches in width and staple each end to a 54" x 1/2" x 1" piece of wood and just nail those 2 ends to the wall with the blackout cloth stretched betwen them. It's an easy and temporary DIY screen.

Unless you want to do a lot of ironing, forget the bedsheet. I found it easier to make the blackout cloth screen.

I received a couple of helpful PM's where I could find blackout cloth in 110" width x whatever length you want. I'd be happy to pass on the info if someone else could use it. I'm not sure if I'm allowed to post it here so feel free to PM me. :)

Yesterday, 02:02 AM tor ove
That's right. It only reduces the light output. And most important of all, it then also reduces the light that leaks between the mirrors. The result is a slight dimmer picture, but the blacklevel really gets a boost.

OK, but when you reduce the light output, the energy from the light must go somewhere? Will it mean that the lens system will be hotter and maybe the lamp also? Or will the filter absorb the energy or is it nothing to be worried about? Thanks.

The light energy is absorbed by the filter (which heats up - but not by that much).

Question - Is a 120" screen to big for this projector? If not, how far back should the projector be located (ceiling mount)?

I have pretty much decided on this projector and have been given a Da-Lite 120" electric screen from a friend ('borrowing' it from him until he buys a new house in another couple of years). Distance is no issue as my media room is going to be 25' deep by 20' wide when it is done w/ the main seating at around 15-17 feet from the screen.

Thanks for any insight you can provide.

Question - Is a 120" screen to big for this projector? If not, how far back should the projector be located (ceiling mount)?

I have pretty much decided on this projector and have been given a Da-Lite 120" electric screen from a friend ('borrowing' it from him until he buys a new house in another couple of years). Distance is no issue as my media room is going to be 25' deep by 20' wide when it is done w/ the main seating at around 15-17 feet from the screen.

Thanks for any insight you can provide.With that size 120" size, diagonal I assume, you may consider your front row at 12' and the second row at 16-17' as the mounting distance would be 12-15 feet.
Or consider another PJ with a longer throw lens to get the mount a few feet behind the viewers.
Or a wider screen.

Yes, a 120" will work great with this projector.. plenty bright for a screen of that size. Remember that wherever you place the seating and projector, you should try and put the projector directly above the seating position so when you stand up, the PJ is not in the way.

Guys,

I need some help to understand what exactly does a Neutral density 2x filter does. I know it reduces light output, and improves black levels, but does cut in half the lumen output? What will happen with my 123" screen +1.3 gain. The room is 100% light controled, so for movies I dont mind too much, but for HD, regular TV, and video Games, what will happen?

Thanks,

An ND2 reduces light output by half, all across the intensity range. Blacks are half as bright and whites are half as bright. You only want your whites dropped to the 10-12 ftL range, assuming you want to simulate a movie theater.

Check out projectorcentral (http://www.projectorcentral.com/Toshiba_TACP-TDP-MT700-projection-calculator-pro.htm) for a calculator to figure out the ftL for your screen. This calculator is based on the marketing lumens of the MT700, so cutting it's numbers in half (i.e. 550 lumens) to get reasonable D65 lumens is appropriately.

A 120" wide screen is at 10ftL assuming a true 1100 lumen projector. With a more realistic 550 lumens, you're at 5ftL. Add a ND2 and you're at 2.5ftL. Multiply by 1.3 for the gain of your screen and you're at 3.25ftL, which is far too low.

Again, just going by memory from reading past posts, but I believe it more or less cuts the light it lets through in half. Think of it this way. On a scale of 1 to 10, if your blacks are at a 1 (0 being completely black) and you apply a NDx2 filter, your blacks will now be at .5. Closer to 0 the better. At the same time, it cuts all the light in half, meaning your whites will be half as white. Take this with a grain of salt as I'm no expert. Never used one and just going by memory. I may pick one up and try it though.

On an entirely different note, I think I'm going to need more than the 25' HDMI cable I ordered. In the Top view from my signature, my A/V equipment will be in the bookshelf on the top left corner of the room. Its a 14' wide room with the projector ceiling mounted. To run it up into the ceiling, across 14', down 6' and back up to the shelves another 5', I'd need 25'. I've always always ended up needing more cabling than I thought in the past on every other attempt, so the 25' stretch I ordered from monoprice may be just a bit too short.

At the same time,I'm concerned about signal loss with too long of a stretch. I've read the posts from a couple different members saying they use the 50' HDMI-HDMI from monoprice.com on their Samsung HD850/950 and have had no problems. I'll be getting a D* HD receiver that may not put out as strong a signal, but I won't know until later on when I test it for myself.

Unfortunately, they're out of stock in the 50' length. The other sites commonly mentioned (am I allowed to compare on here?) are 2 or 3 times as expensive for 30' lengths than the 50' length from monoprice.com. Any suggestions on what you guys have used succesfully (with reasonable pricing) on the 7700 in the 30 - 50' range?

(Please delete/edit at will if what I've posted is a problem.)

Gimp, I think he's thinking of a 120" diagonal screen, not wide. Still that's only 13 -> 6.5 -> 3.25 -> 4.225. Get rid of the filter and it's doubled (obviously).

Chris, you could always open a hole about 5' up on the wall behind the bookshelf and run it through there, and patch it sometime later. It depends on how long you'll be there, I guess.

Chris, I got a 40 foot cable from our sponsers. No problems at all with it. Yeah, I calculated 25 feet too, but knew better and ordered the 40' Very glad cause I need it.

Chris,

I got a 30' HDMI cable custom from RAM Electronics. It's a very high quality cable. They do custom lengths. They are probably not the cheapest solution, but you certainly get what you pay for.

Craig

Thanks for the suggestions fellas. Monoprice responded to an email I sent earlier and let me know they had one 50' cable left, although their site said they were out of stock. I'll test it out and report back later in case someone else runs into the same situation.

Tim - I may try that. I suppose it depends on how permanent that bookcase position will be. My next upgrade after this will be an A/V receiver and floor standing front speakers, which might not fit unless I move the bookcases down the wall, which means the hole would be in the wrong place.

What's the deal with the HDMI wall plates?

http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/DVI_wall-plate.html

Seems like it'd be an ultra-cheap coupler, if it worked. Would a wall plate connector like this reduce the total length of cable from source to display before signal loss? It'd definitely be a lot cleaner looking install. Then again, I need HDMI, component and S-video coming out of the wall. Ah well. A hole ring will do I guess.